Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Sunday, December 7 2003   Volume 02 : Number 316
 
 
 
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Date: Fri, 5 Dec 2003 20:57:54 -0500
 
From: "The Furmans" <L.Furman1@cox.net>
 
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake kit pictures
 
 
 
Yeah but Cody your DSM and NA 3KGT should still weigh at least 400LBS
 
less than a 3KGT VR-4 or an RT/TT Stealth.  Believe me I of am friends
 
with a bunch of hard core dsm folks (www.victorreasearch.com) and they
 
always talk about how at the track weigh in's my car is at least
 
500Lbs heavier than theirs.
 
 
 
We have also discussed many a times what I should do for brakes and
 
they are recommending at least a 13" front and 12" rear, they have
 
also said if I have money to burn to go 14" front 13" rear.  I value
 
their opinion very highly considering on their stage 1 motor they have
 
run an 11.3 @ 132 and still managed to stop the car without any sort
 
of drama at the end of the run.
 
 
 
Russ F
 
CT
 
93 VR-4  Sold the DR-650's and putting on some HKS GT turbos (AWW
 
SUCKA)
 
 
 
PS its nice to have a resident wheel and tire guru on the forum, you
 
have thrown out some really good information to help me help friends
 
figure out why they are getting vibration in their steering wheel when
 
driving
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sat, 06 Dec 2003 19:54:59 -0500
 
From: "Philip Fitch" <prfitch10@msn.com>
 
Subject: Team3S: Wrecked 95 Stealth TT
 
 
 
Any one have any advice on what to do with the Stealth front end still in perfect shape only had 73 thousand miles on it was a very babied car up untill the wreck. I only carried liabillity&nbsp;so it's a total loss for me.&nbsp; It's just to bad that car was worth more than money and would have never sold it. It's been a bad couple days.
 
 
 
Thanks a lot
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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Date: Sun, 7 Dec 2003 12:47:02 +0100
 
From: Engelmann Peter A Maj AFELM PEP <peter.engelmann@ramstein.af.mil>
 
Subject: Team3S: Brake Upgrade for Autobahn Driving?
 
 
 
Hello and "Guten Tag," Team3S!
 
 
 
I'm Pete Engelmann, an Air Force member stationed in Hamburg, Germany since
 
January 2003.  I have a black 1992 Stealth R/T Twin Turbo, 123K miles, no
 
modifications (I'm good at partial differential equations, but an absolute
 
idiot at anything mechanical).  Recently, I found out I have brake problems.
 
 
 
Quick background (sorry, I know this makes the post longer, but it's
 
necessary to explain the two questions I have below):  While in the vicinity
 
of Ramstein Air Force Base (about 400 miles from my duty station in
 
Hamburg), I noticed my right front tire had severe wear on the right outside
 
of the tread.  None of my other tires showed the same problem, and the tires
 
were nearly new.  Took the car to the AAFES (Army & Air Force Exchange
 
Service) garage at Ramstein, thinking something was wrong with the
 
alignment.  As soon as the car was on the lift, the mechanic noticed the
 
right front wheel did not turn at all by hand.  The mechanic said that
 
pulling the wheel revealed a stuck piston in the caliper, due to the fact
 
that all the seals in the caliper had fallen out (or were never installed in
 
the first place), meaning dirt and moisture had gotten into those areas.  In
 
effect, that wheel was constantly being braked.  Consequently, the pads were
 
pretty worn, too.  Pulling the left front wheel revealed more missing seals
 
(although that piston was OK), plus a caliper that had apparently been put
 
on backwards, as the brake line to it was twisted.  When I told the German
 
mechanic I had just had the brakes done in the States before shipping the
 
car to Germany (to avoid precisely the problem I have now--getting parts and
 
finding a reputable mechanic), he inquired what "idiot" (his word, although
 
I now share the sentiment!) had done the work.  (Answer:  Just Brakes in
 
Colorado Springs.  New pads & shoes, rotors turned, calipers rebuilt on all
 
4 wheels for $480.)  OK, so now I need at least the front calipers rebuilt
 
AGAIN, and probably the rear ones as well (I'll find that out Tuesday, when
 
I have the brakes inspected by a mechanic here in Hamburg).
 
 
 
Now my two questions:  should I go with an upgrade to accomodate Autobahn
 
driving, and who's a reputable dealer to do the work?
 
 
 
Question #1:  since I need at least another caliper rebuild plus pads &
 
shoes, should I consider upgrading the entire brake system at this time?  I
 
do NOT race the car, but I DO enjoy driving fast on the Autobahn--traffic
 
permitting, I'll hit 150+ mph (have I mentioned that I've been DREAMING of
 
taking the car to Germany the past 10 years??).  And traffic being what it
 
is, I frequently have to stomp on the brakes--hard--at those speeds.  Is
 
merely replacing the brakes with stock parts acceptable, or should I--just
 
for safety!--go with something designed to handle the higher speeds?
 
(Somehow, I don't think the stock system was designed for routine 150 mph
 
speeds.)  If so, what are your recommendations?  I immediately thought of
 
drilled rotors (I notice the fast Porsches here all have those), but I've
 
followed the posts on the list for a few weeks now, and I note there is some
 
disagreement on whether they're necessary.  I'd especially appreciate
 
comments from Geoff Mohler (the Team3S FAQ site says he's the recommended
 
vendor for brakes) and maybe Roger Gerl, since it sounds like he's got
 
experience at high-speed Autobahn driving.
 
 
 
The FAQ site lists Porterfield as the recommended rotor manufacturer.  Would
 
you concur?  Are those 1-piece rotors?  Should I go with 2-piece?  (The web
 
research I've done so far indicates that would drive the price quite
 
high--to about $2K per axle.  Is it worth the price?)  The FAQ site also
 
lists slotting, drilling, and cryo-treating as optional rotor treatments.
 
Which, if any, are recommended for high-speed Autobahn driving?  Do I need
 
new calipers as well?  What about brake pads?  I presume Porterfield R4-S
 
(listed as the "high performance street pad of choice")?
 
 
 
Question #2:  does anyone have any experience with mechanics in Germany?  In
 
general, I'm more inclined to trust any of them than I would American
 
mechanics, because the shops I've seen are all clean (you can eat off the
 
garage floors), plus they have to have a "Master's Accreditation"
 
(Meisterbrief) that's not easy to get to have their own shop.  Also, they
 
all appear to be 40+ years old--I interpret that as meaning "experienced",
 
not young kids still learning the ropes of their trade.  And finally, I've
 
had too many "Just Brakes" experiences in America--I pay top dollar, and get
 
crappy work.  But I presume I'm preaching to the choir with this audience.
 
Wish I were as mechanically adept as you guys!
 
 
 
Right now, I'm looking at choosing between two:  either the AAFES garage at
 
Ramstein (owned by AAFES, but the mechanics are German), or one called
 
"Allrad Automobile, K. D. Schlangen GmbH, Osdorfer Landstrasse, Hamburg".
 
Advantage of the latter is he's close--I don't have to drive 400 miles one
 
way to use his services.  He recently swapped out headlights for me--charged
 
me 20 euros apiece (about $25 according to the current exchange rate) plus
 
25 euros labor for installing both.  Sounded like a fair price to me--gives
 
me a "warm fuzzy" he's honest.  I know it's a long shot, but does anyone
 
have any experience dealing with this shop?
 
 
 
I know this is a long post--thanks to everyone for bearing with me while I
 
explained the situation.  And thanks in advance for any advice!
 
 
 
Cheers,
 
 
 
Pete Engelmann
 
92 black Stealth R/T TT, 123K, no mods
 
 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
 
 
 
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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2 #316
 
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