Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, July 31
2003 Volume 02 : Number
217
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Jul 2003 21:53:37 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Now, these are calipers !!
On ebay Germany, there is a guy who
sells a set of Brembo 8-pot calipers for
the new Mercedes AMG :-) About $1400
for both :
http://ebay3.ipixmedia.com/abc/M28/_EBAY_c684d63770a13f1f99c39487ceca3db9/i-2_B_L.JPGWith
a good adapter they will fit rotors of up to 37mm thickness and a dia
between
345 and 390mm ... wow !
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:12:56
-0400 (Eastern Standard Time)
From: "Andy C" <
acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Question on stumbling acceleration 900-2k RPM on my VR4
-
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=0D
I was in Rochester,NY last weekend and noticed a
slight stumble on take o=
ff
acceleration. It was fine before the
trip and I only noticed it after a
hour drive which included several high
speed runs. Then I noticed it on
take off , there was a slight stumble
but it would pick up great after ab=
out
2K rpms. It ran fine on the
ride home. =0D
I just started it and it was running
a bit rough. After several rev=
s
it cleared up a bit and finally to
a point you hardly notice it but it's
still there. I haven't really
checked anything yet just figured I'd ask
first. I know I haven't
changed the fuel filter, possible cause? Also a
quick check - all hoses
are connected and not leaks. I'm going to take it
out for a spin now
:) =0D
=0D
Thanks,=0D
Andy
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<DIV><BR>I was in Rochester,NY last weekend
and noticed a slight stumble =
on take off acceleration. It was
fine before the trip and I only no=
ticed it after a hour drive
which included several high speed runs.&=
nbsp; Then I noticed it on take
off , there was a slight stumble but it w=
ould pick up great after about 2K
rpms. It ran fine on the ride
hom=
e. </DIV>
<DIV>
I just started it and it was running a bit =
rough. After
several revs it cleared up a bit and finally to a poin=
t you hardly notice
it but it's still there. I haven't really check=
ed anything yet
just figured I'd ask first. I know I haven't change=
d the fuel
filter, possible cause? Also a quick check - all hoses a=
re
connected and not leaks. I'm going to take it out for a spin now
:)&nb=
sp;
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Thanks,</DIV>
<DIV>Andy</DIV>
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***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 13:35:37
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transmission and Exhaust
RE: Exhaust - $110 at Meineke replaced
all the leaking sections with new
pipe welded on. Was on a 91 Base
Stealth so might be more on a VR4.
- -Erik
'94
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:01:07
-0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
Here are the actual test
results in Georgia.
25/25 TEST
========
TEST
READING ALLOWED
RESULT
- --------
--------------
--------------- -----------
HC
pps
132
120
*FAILED
CO %
0.81
0.67
*FAILED
NOxpp
357
848
PASS
50/15
TEST
========
TEST
READING ALLOWED
RESULT
- --------
--------------
--------------- -----------
HC
pps
123
124
PASS
CO %
0.39
0.69
PASS
NO pp
182
937
PASS
- -----Original
Message-----
From: fastmax [mailto:fastmax@cox.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July
30, 2003 11:19 AM
To: Williams, Tommy F;
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Emissions in Atlanta Ga.
What does it fail
????
Jim
Berry
==============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
To:
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 7:44 AM
Subject: Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta
Ga.
> Can someone in Atlanta area help me out. My wonderful
Stealth R/T has now
> found a new home in Atlanta. It seems to he
having a problem passing
> emissions. The car runs great and I had
absolutely no problems in New
York.
>
> The car has K&N
filter, DNP hard intake pipe, DNP Down Pipe, Borla exhaust
> with Toucan
twin tips and a testpipe.com free-er flowing cat.
>
> Those are the
only mods on the car other than a Quafe LSD.
>
> Why can't it pass
emissions in ATL????????
>
> I put new plugs and wires on the car
before delivering the car a week ago.
>
> Tommy
>
-----------------------------------------
> The information contained in
this transmission may contain privileged and
confidential information and is
intended only for the
use of the person(s) named above. If you are not the
intended recipient, or
an employee or agent responsible for delivering
this
message to the intended recipient, any review, dissemination,
distribution
or duplication of this communication is strictly
prohibited.
If you are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender
immediately
by reply e-mail and destroy all copies of
the original message. Please note
that we do not accept account orders
and/or instructions by e-mail, and
therefore will not be
responsible for carrying out such orders and/or
instructions.
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
- -----------------------------------------
The information contained
in this transmission may contain privileged and confidential information and is
intended only for the use of the person(s) named above. If you are not the
intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, any review, dissemination, distribution or
duplication of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you are not the
intended recipient, please contact the sender immediately by reply e-mail and
destroy all copies of the original message. Please note that we do not accept
account orders and/or instructions by e-mail, and therefore will not be
responsible for carrying out such orders and/or
instructions.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:10:13
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New muffler rules?
Just got back from my favorite place, Denny's
Mufflers here in Cedar Rapids
(the rejuvenation and race prep of my 125,000
mile AWD Talon has begun!)
where they told me some disturbing news.
It
seems that recent EPA rules now say:
1. A shop cannot install parts that
increase the OD of an exhaust system
beyond that of stock.
2. A shop
still cannot remove a cat under any circumstances; but now, if
they do
exhaust work on a car where the cat has been removed, they must
install a new
one, or they can't do the work. "Sorry, bud, gotta put a cat
on
there."
This was, of course paraphrased by one of the shop guys, and I
am
paraphrasing it back to you, but there probably is an element of truth
and
consequences buried in there somewhere. Anybody know what the new rules
are?
Does it mean we can't get the Stillen downpipe installed at a muffler
shop
anymore cuz it takes out cats? What about a Borla -- isn't it bigger
OD
than stock?
Rich/slow old poop
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 14:17:26
-0700
From: "Dean" <
dean@benzfamily.us>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
This has got to be state, local, or
just BS. There is no way the EPA could
have gotten this through. Every
exhaust manufacturer, distributor,
installer, and their trade
organizations/lobbyists would have had a
conniption. This is worse than CARB,
and most other states aren't even that
picky. Ask for it in writing, or find
another shop.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 2:10 PM
Subject: 3S-Racers: New muffler
rules?
> Just got back from my favorite place, Denny's Mufflers
here in Cedar
Rapids
> (the rejuvenation and race prep of my 125,000
mile AWD Talon has begun!)
> where they told me some disturbing
news.
>
> It seems that recent EPA rules now say:
>
> 1.
A shop cannot install parts that increase the OD of an exhaust system
>
beyond that of stock.
>
> 2. A shop still cannot remove a cat under
any circumstances; but now, if
> they do exhaust work on a car where the
cat has been removed, they must
> install a new one, or they can't do the
work. "Sorry, bud, gotta put a cat
> on there."
>
> This was,
of course paraphrased by one of the shop guys, and I am
> paraphrasing it
back to you, but there probably is an element of truth and
> consequences
buried in there somewhere. Anybody know what the new rules
are?
> Does
it mean we can't get the Stillen downpipe installed at a muffler shop
>
anymore cuz it takes out cats? What about a Borla -- isn't it bigger OD
>
than stock?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
>
>
>
--
> To sub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe
3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe
3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high
performance cars."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:25:47
-0500
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
At 02:17 PM 7/30/2003
-0700, Dean wrote:
>This has got to be state, local, or just BS. There is
no way the EPA could
>have gotten this through. Every exhaust
manufacturer, distributor,
>installer, and their trade
organizations/lobbyists would have had a
>conniption. This is worse than
CARB, and most other states aren't even that
>picky. Ask for it in
writing, or find another shop.
>
He wasn't refusing to do work for me,
just complaining about all the new
gummint rules they have to follow. I got
the impression that these were new
rules. At the time, he was replacing the
tie rod ends, ball joint, and rear
caliper, so we weren't even working on the
exhaust.
Rich/slow old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:34:29
-0400
From: "Chris Thompson" <
cthompson@rrinc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
Gee, I just put a 3" exhaust,
replaced the cat with a test pipe, and even
have the wastegate venting to
atmosphere on my Talon. Just got a new
inspection sticker on it
last month.
Go to dsmtrader.com and get what you want, and install it
yourself. Took me
an hour or two. I got my turbo-back 3" exhaust
for the Talon for just a
coupla hundred bucks.
Chris
- -----
Original Message -----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To:
<
3sracers@speedtoys.com>;
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 5:10 PM
Subject: 3S-Racers: New muffler
rules?
> Just got back from my favorite place, Denny's Mufflers
here in Cedar
Rapids
> (the rejuvenation and race prep of my 125,000
mile AWD Talon has begun!)
> where they told me some disturbing
news.
>
> It seems that recent EPA rules now say:
>
> 1.
A shop cannot install parts that increase the OD of an exhaust system
>
beyond that of stock.
>
> 2. A shop still cannot remove a cat under
any circumstances; but now, if
> they do exhaust work on a car where the
cat has been removed, they must
> install a new one, or they can't do the
work. "Sorry, bud, gotta put a cat
> on there."
>
> This was,
of course paraphrased by one of the shop guys, and I am
> paraphrasing it
back to you, but there probably is an element of truth and
> consequences
buried in there somewhere. Anybody know what the new rules
are?
> Does
it mean we can't get the Stillen downpipe installed at a muffler shop
>
anymore cuz it takes out cats? What about a Borla -- isn't it bigger OD
>
than stock?
>
> Rich/slow old poop
>
>
>
--
> To sub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe
3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe
3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high
performance cars."
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:42:15
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
What do these tests
entail? What does 25, 50, & 15 mean? BTW the 25/25
failure indicates a
true rich condition, or possibly a minor rich
misfire.
Ken
>
25/25 TEST
>
========
>
>
50/15 TEST
>
========
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:45:34
-0400
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
Unfortunately I don't have
the answer as I wasn't present at the inspection.
Any idea what would cause
the car to run rich?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
[mailto:ken.c.stanton@usa.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 5:42 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
What do these tests entail? What
does 25, 50, & 15 mean? BTW the 25/25
failure indicates a true rich
condition, or possibly a minor rich
misfire.
Ken
>
25/25 TEST
>
========
>
>
50/15 TEST
>
========
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
- -----------------------------------------
The information contained
in this transmission may contain privileged and confidential information and is
intended only for the use of the person(s) named above. If you are not the
intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, any review, dissemination, distribution or
duplication of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you are not the
intended recipient, please contact the sender immediately by reply e-mail and
destroy all copies of the original message. Please note that we do not accept
account orders and/or instructions by e-mail, and therefore will not be
responsible for carrying out such orders and/or
instructions.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:49:08
-0400
From: "Ved" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Painting the engine bay???
I am thinking about painting my engine bay
black, while the engine is out of
the car and being rebuilt. Would it
be safe just to paint over the original
paint. Also, if it's safe, what
kind of paint should I use. I want the
top of the engine bay to
be gloss.
Thanks
Ved
94 TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:47:08
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Painting the engine bay???
Anything is safe..but preparation
is the key to lookin good and lasting..
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003, Ved
wrote:
> I am thinking about painting my engine bay black, while the
engine is out of
> the car and being rebuilt. Would it be safe just
to paint over the original
> paint. Also, if it's safe, what kind
of paint should I use. I want the
> top of the engine bay to
be gloss.
>
> Thanks
> Ved
> 94 TT
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:54:50
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
If you are sure your hi-flow
cat isn't just a testpipe, then you should
not
be having problems. Maybe
clean your air filter and disable any hotwire
for
fuel pump you may have
done. (to lower fuel pressure)
Otherwise you may have to actually fix the
condition. I think you said
your plugs were
fairly new so you probably
need to check the fuel side of things mostly.
Of course if you have leaks
after the turbos, you may be running a bit
rich
too.
Skyrider
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ken Stanton [mailto:ken.c.stanton@usa.net]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 2:42 PM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
What do these tests entail? What
does 25, 50, & 15 mean? BTW the 25/25
failure indicates a true rich
condition, or possibly a minor
rich
misfire.
Ken
>
25/25 TEST
>
========
>
>
50/15 TEST
>
========
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 17:59:39
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Painting the engine bay???
Most parts stores carry semi high heat
paint these days, in many
colors and finish types. I don't know if our
engine bay requires that,
but the main thing is preparation as Geoff
said.
Skyrider
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ved
[mailto:1994TT@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 2:49 PM
To:
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Painting the engine bay???
I am thinking about painting my
engine bay black, while the engine is
out of the car and being rebuilt.
Would it be safe just to paint over
the original paint. Also, if it's
safe, what kind of paint should I
use. I want the top of the
engine bay to be gloss.
Thanks
Ved
94
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:07:00
-0700
From: "Ioan Raicu" <
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tire wear
I have two new tires (10/32 thread) on the back, and
two older tires
(less than 1 year old) with 6/32 thread left on the front; I
always
thought the rears wear faster, can someone comment on why the
fronts
would wear faster?
Can I assume that my situation is
somewhat better than if 3 were of
equal size and only 1 was different?
I would be more than willing to
shave those two newer tires, but I never
thought (I looked into it a few
years back) it was possible to do accurately
enough where they could
guarantee that the amount of thread you have left is
exactly what you
need.
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 16:07:01
-0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta Ga.
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
>
Can someone in Atlanta area help me out. My wonderful Stealth R/T has
now
found a new home in Atlanta. It seems to he having a problem
passing
emissions. The car runs great and I had absolutely no problems
in New York.
> The car has K&N filter, DNP hard intake pipe, DNP Down
Pipe, Borla exhaust
with Toucan twin tips and a testpipe.com free-er flowing
cat.
> Those are the only mods on the car other than a Quafe LSD.
>
Why can't it pass emissions in ATL????????
> I put new plugs and wires on
the car before delivering the car a week ago.
> Tommy
-
----------------------------------------->
In all likelihood, the car
sat there parked until they were ready to test it.
They started it up and put
it on the machine. Half of all cars will fail that
way. Take the
car out for a 10-minute run on the highway just before your
next
appointment. Make sure that you run at high revs (a lower gear)
during
that time, to get the cat elements good and hot. They are only
effective
after they are warmed up. (And every shop knows that!). Be
wary of these
dudes... Good ol' Southern Hospitality - some good
ol' boys 'getting off' in
taking advantage of the "big city boy".
Change nothing. Run it again. The
right way.
-
--Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:20:44
-0400
From: "Jessica T" <
jessicat@uslink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
This is my first email to the
Team 3S list. My name is Jessica and I am an
electrical engineering
student who only knows the basics when it comes to
cars. My dad is
working on my car because he is a certified diesel mechanic
(he's not
automotive but he can still do the job) and I am a college student
that can
afford only parts, NOT labor rates (except for maybe a case of
beer)
;-) This is also the first import car my dad has ever really worked
on
(granted he does work on import diesel engines all of the time and claims
my
car's diagnostic information is primitive when compared to the $200k
machines
he works on).
In May I bought a 1992 Stealth R/T (non-turbo). The
previous owner was a
farmer in the flat lands between Minnesota and North
Dakota. My dad went
with me to check out the car. Everything
looked good so I paid for it and
drove it the four hours to get home.
(Please note, it ran excellent and I
more than revelled when every car drove
passed me with that wide-eyed look.
There aren't very many Stealths or
3000GTs in my area.) For the rest of May
and June I used it for light
driving to work and it never had a problem. A
few weeks ago it started
acting with some peculiar behaviors that my dad
cannot
pinpoint.
First, I would like to mention that I checked the archives for
similar
problems and I did find one post:
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002
00:12:50 EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Ignition problems
However, I did not ever find a solution post (perhaps I
didn't look hard
enough).
Anyway, my problem boils down to
this:
Observations- The car will start (starter has been "rebuilt"; the
brushes
were worn and replaced) and idle roughly. After warm-up and
30-45 seconds
of driving, the car will run normal. After about 15
minutes of driving
(about 7 minutes are around the 60 mph range and 8 are in
the 25-40 mph
range) the car will return to running roughly. First one
of the three coils
will cut out, then if run for longer another coil pack
will cut out. When
the car is only running on one of the three, the
engine usually dies. When
the wires are removed, there is no spark
coming from the coil pack. The
problem follows the coil pack and not
the plugs. The check engine light
always accompanies the "problem" and
the rpm's obvously drop when coils cut
out. Also, the car will begin to
run poorly faster if the the outside
temperature is 75+ degrees
F.
Attempts- I have the "good book" for my stealth and checked the MPI
codes.
I get a 44 and a 52. (One each for the 1/4 and the 2/5
cylinders). So my
dad and I checked the plugs. They were newly
replaced. We changed the
power transistor unit and reset the
codes. The problem remained. We
checked the coil pack as the book
suggests, but it conforms to
specifications.
When we switched the 2/5
coil pack (which was not firing) with the 3/6 coil
pack (which was firing)
the 2/5 coil pack was now firing on the 3/6
position. So we really
don't think it is a bad coil pack unless these are
notorious for acting
erractly....
I'm not sure if this is relevent to the problem but as a
side note, when we
went to get the numbers on the ECU, we found that the
radio was wired wrong.
So we rewired the stereo following the audio wiring
diagram, but the stereo
wire colors do not match those of the harness in the
circuit diagram. Now
all features of the stereo work (including the
steering buttons which did
not previously work), but now the stereo will stay
on even without the
ignition key. I don't think this is normal.
There is no sound (no power to
the speakers) but there is constant power to
the stereo. Without a key I
power up the stereo (and power
antenna) and put cd's into and out of the cd
player. We still must have
some issues with the wiring.
Somewhat baffled, my dad took the car to the
ONLY import technician in my
area while I was at work. The technician
read my codes from the diagnostics
port (and had the same info that I already
knew). He suggested my father
take out the additional Viper alarm
system that was wired into my car
because it might be backfeeding into the
electrical system. So my dad
removed the alarm system, reset the codes,
and the problem remained. The
technician suggested that it may be the
main computer and that it can be
replaced new for $1400-1800 or possibly a
refurbished one can be found. (He
claimed it took him weeks to find one
for a different Stealth at a
junkyard.) As a final note, we also
checked and cleaned the grime out of
the electrical connections and
plugs.
Theories- We think that maybe a sensor might be inputting
invalid
information to the ECU or perhaps the ECU itself is
defective.
This doesn't seem to be a common problem, but does anyone have
any comments
or input? I would REALLY appreciate any information anyone
can offer!
Thank you,
Jessica T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 19:59:41
-0400
From: "Ken Stanton" <
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
Well, seeing as your Dad
has some good knowledge of cars, this probably
isn't news, but...
I would
try the old swaperoo on the 2 parts (which seem like very good
deductions) in
question. Whichever you can get your hands on, but most
likely the
coils would be easiest.
The ECU, however, gets my attention bc of the
infamous leaky capacitor
problem we experience - this sounds like such a
case. Pulling the ECU to
inspect is quite easy, I believe Jeff has some
info on his page regarding
the whole capacitor replacement procedure,
www.stealth316.com, but you can
use the
removal instructions. Pop it out and see if they look like
they're
leaking. It isn't obvious, but close inspection and givin them
a sniff
could tell the story.
Good luck, and excellent career choice
;)
Ken Stanton
91 Pearl White Stealth TT
MSEE, Virginia
Tech
Automotive control systems
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jessica T" <
jessicat@uslink.net>
To: <
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 6:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition
Problems
> This is my first email to the Team 3S list. My
name is Jessica and I am
an
> electrical engineering student who only
knows the basics when it comes to
> cars. My dad is working on my
car because he is a certified diesel
mechanic
> (he's not automotive
but he can still do the job) and I am a college
student
> that can
afford only parts, NOT labor rates (except for maybe a case of
>
beer) ;-) This is also the first import car my dad has ever
really
worked
> on (granted he does work on import diesel engines all
of the time and
claims
> my car's diagnostic information is primitive
when compared to the $200k
> machines he works on).
>
> In May
I bought a 1992 Stealth R/T (non-turbo). The previous owner was a
>
farmer in the flat lands between Minnesota and North Dakota. My dad
went
> with me to check out the car. Everything looked good so I
paid for it and
> drove it the four hours to get home. (Please note,
it ran excellent and I
> more than revelled when every car drove passed me
with that wide-eyed
look.
> There aren't very many Stealths or 3000GTs
in my area.) For the rest of
May
> and June I used it for light
driving to work and it never had a problem.
A
> few weeks ago it
started acting with some peculiar behaviors that my dad
> cannot
pinpoint.
>
> First, I would like to mention that I checked the
archives for similar
> problems and I did find one post:
>
>
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002 00:12:50 EST
> From:
ThorHolth@aol.com> Subject: Team3S:
Ignition problems
>
> However, I did not ever find a solution post
(perhaps I didn't look hard
> enough).
>
> Anyway, my problem
boils down to this:
>
> Observations- The car will start (starter
has been "rebuilt"; the brushes
> were worn and replaced) and idle
roughly. After warm-up and 30-45 seconds
> of driving, the car will
run normal. After about 15 minutes of driving
> (about 7 minutes are
around the 60 mph range and 8 are in the 25-40 mph
> range) the car will
return to running roughly. First one of the three
coils
> will
cut out, then if run for longer another coil pack will cut out.
When
> the car is only running on one of the three, the engine usually
dies.
When
> the wires are removed, there is no spark coming from the
coil pack. The
> problem follows the coil pack and not the
plugs. The check engine light
> always accompanies the "problem" and
the rpm's obvously drop when coils
cut
> out. Also, the car will
begin to run poorly faster if the the outside
> temperature is 75+ degrees
F.
>
> Attempts- I have the "good book" for my stealth and checked
the MPI codes.
> I get a 44 and a 52. (One each for the 1/4 and the 2/5
cylinders). So my
> dad and I checked the plugs. They were
newly replaced. We changed the
> power transistor unit and
reset the codes. The problem remained. We
> checked the coil
pack as the book suggests, but it conforms to
>
specifications.
>
> When we switched the 2/5 coil pack (which was
not firing) with the 3/6
coil
> pack (which was firing) the 2/5 coil
pack was now firing on the 3/6
> position. So we really don't think
it is a bad coil pack unless these are
> notorious for acting
erractly....
>
> I'm not sure if this is relevent to the problem but
as a side note, when
we
> went to get the numbers on the ECU, we found
that the radio was wired
wrong.
> So we rewired the stereo following
the audio wiring diagram, but the
stereo
> wire colors do not match
those of the harness in the circuit diagram. Now
> all features of
the stereo work (including the steering buttons which did
> not previously
work), but now the stereo will stay on even without the
> ignition
key. I don't think this is normal. There is no sound (no
power
to
> the speakers) but there is constant power to the
stereo. Without a key I
> power up the stereo (and power antenna)
and put cd's into and out of the
cd
> player. We still must have
some issues with the wiring.
>
> Somewhat baffled, my dad took the
car to the ONLY import technician in my
> area while I was at work.
The technician read my codes from the
diagnostics
> port (and had the
same info that I already knew). He suggested my father
> take out
the additional Viper alarm system that was wired into my car
> because it
might be backfeeding into the electrical system. So my dad
> removed
the alarm system, reset the codes, and the problem remained. The
>
technician suggested that it may be the main computer and that it can be
>
replaced new for $1400-1800 or possibly a refurbished one can be
found.
(He
> claimed it took him weeks to find one for a different
Stealth at a
> junkyard.) As a final note, we also checked and
cleaned the grime out of
> the electrical connections and
plugs.
>
> Theories- We think that maybe a sensor might be inputting
invalid
> information to the ECU or perhaps the ECU itself is
defective.
>
> This doesn't seem to be a common problem, but does
anyone have any
comments
> or input? I would REALLY appreciate
any information anyone can offer!
>
> Thank you,
>
>
Jessica T
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 19:00:30
-0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
Jessica,
I have no
first hand experience with your symptoms but perhaps the infamous
ECU
capacitor degradation is causing your problem. There is a very clear
write-up
at this location (TechnoMotive website):
http://www.tmo.com/howto/howtos.htm
=> How do I replace the capacitors in my
ECU? => First generation
(89-94)
A visual inspection might be enough to confirm the ECU needs
re-Cap-ing, and
your EE classes might include a lab with the necessary
equipment.
Good Luck,
Charles Canney
EE, Class of 1985
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jessica T [mailto:jessicat@uslink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 5:21 PM
To:
Team3S@Stealth-3000GT.stSubject:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
This is my first email to
the Team 3S list. My name is Jessica and I am an
electrical engineering
student who only knows the basics when it comes to
cars. My dad is
working on my car because he is a certified diesel mechanic
(he's not
automotive but he can still do the job) and I am a college student
that can
afford only parts, NOT labor rates (except for maybe a case of
beer)
;-) This is also the first import car my dad has ever really worked
on
(granted he does work on import diesel engines all of the time and claims
my
car's diagnostic information is primitive when compared to the $200k
machines
he works on).
In May I bought a 1992 Stealth R/T (non-turbo). The
previous owner was a
farmer in the flat lands between Minnesota and North
Dakota. My dad went
with me to check out the car. Everything
looked good so I paid for it and
drove it the four hours to get home.
(Please note, it ran excellent and I
more than revelled when every car drove
passed me with that wide-eyed look.
There aren't very many Stealths or
3000GTs in my area.) For the rest of May
and June I used it for light
driving to work and it never had a problem. A
few weeks ago it started
acting with some peculiar behaviors that my dad
cannot
pinpoint.
First, I would like to mention that I checked the archives for
similar
problems and I did find one post:
Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2002
00:12:50 EST
From:
ThorHolth@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Ignition problems
However, I did not ever find a solution post (perhaps I
didn't look hard
enough).
Anyway, my problem boils down to
this:
Observations- The car will start (starter has been "rebuilt"; the
brushes
were worn and replaced) and idle roughly. After warm-up and
30-45 seconds
of driving, the car will run normal. After about 15
minutes of driving
(about 7 minutes are around the 60 mph range and 8 are in
the 25-40 mph
range) the car will return to running roughly. First one
of the three coils
will cut out, then if run for longer another coil pack
will cut out. When
the car is only running on one of the three, the
engine usually dies. When
the wires are removed, there is no spark
coming from the coil pack. The
problem follows the coil pack and not
the plugs. The check engine light
always accompanies the "problem" and
the rpm's obvously drop when coils cut
out. Also, the car will begin to
run poorly faster if the the outside
temperature is 75+ degrees
F.
Attempts- I have the "good book" for my stealth and checked the MPI
codes. I
get a 44 and a 52. (One each for the 1/4 and the 2/5
cylinders). So my
dad and I checked the plugs. They were newly
replaced. We changed the
power transistor unit and reset the
codes. The problem remained. We
checked the coil pack as the book
suggests, but it conforms to
specifications.
When we switched the 2/5
coil pack (which was not firing) with the 3/6 coil
pack (which was firing)
the 2/5 coil pack was now firing on the 3/6
position. So we really
don't think it is a bad coil pack unless these are
notorious for acting
erractly....
I'm not sure if this is relevent to the problem but as a
side note, when we
went to get the numbers on the ECU, we found that the
radio was wired wrong.
So we rewired the stereo following the audio wiring
diagram, but the stereo
wire colors do not match those of the harness in the
circuit diagram. Now
all features of the stereo work (including the
steering buttons which did
not previously work), but now the stereo will stay
on even without the
ignition key. I don't think this is normal.
There is no sound (no power to
the speakers) but there is constant power to
the stereo. Without a key I
power up the stereo (and power
antenna) and put cd's into and out of the cd
player. We still must have
some issues with the wiring.
Somewhat baffled, my dad took the car to the
ONLY import technician in my
area while I was at work. The technician
read my codes from the diagnostics
port (and had the same info that I already
knew). He suggested my father
take out the additional Viper alarm
system that was wired into my car
because it might be backfeeding into the
electrical system. So my dad
removed the alarm system, reset the codes,
and the problem remained. The
technician suggested that it may be the
main computer and that it can be
replaced new for $1400-1800 or possibly a
refurbished one can be found. (He
claimed it took him weeks to find one
for a different Stealth at a
junkyard.) As a final note, we also
checked and cleaned the grime out of
the electrical connections and
plugs.
Theories- We think that maybe a sensor might be inputting
invalid
information to the ECU or perhaps the ECU itself is
defective.
This doesn't seem to be a common problem, but does anyone have
any comments
or input? I would REALLY appreciate any information anyone
can offer!
Thank you,
Jessica T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:59:42
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tire wear
All Discount Tire's follow a simple rule... On an
AWD car, if a tire
needs to be replaced, it must have less than 4/32
difference in tread
depth when compared to the other tires. It must
also be of the exact
same make, brand, etc. If they ever argue this
with you, tell them to
look in their red book, which should be attached to
their belt...
- -Cody
> -----Original Message-----
>
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of Alex Pedenko
>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 11:26 AM
> To: 'Gabe Simoes';
'Dean'
> Cc:
Team3S@team3s.com> Subject: RE:
Team3S: tire wear
>
> They're replacing it under the pro-rated
plan, which is probably why
> they're not pushing all 4. I guess the
question that is still
unanswered
> is will a difference of 2.3mm be
enough to be worried about, from both
a
> handling standpoint and a vcu
lifespan point...
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Alex
> '95
VR4
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of Gabe Simoes
>
Sent: Wednesday, July 30, 2003 11:09 AM
> To: Dean
> Cc: Alex
Pedenko;
Team3S@team3s.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: tire wear
>
> I used to work at Disount Tire,
and while I never saw the shaver in
> use, we did have one. It is a
sound idea, but the majority of the
> time the owner had to purchase all
new tires (probably a messed up
> scheme to get $$$$). Either way I
would definetly complain if the
> tire isn't the same
circumference.
> Gabe Simoes
>
> 1992 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin
Turbo
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
From: Dean <
dean@benzfamily.us>
> Date:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 9:56 am
> Subject: Re: Team3S: tire wear
>
> > Gabe wrote:
> > > When you replace one tire, you
should replace all tires. I am
> > > surprised they did that.
Usually Discount will insist you
> > replace all
> > > of
them because the difference in tread height could cause
problems
> >
> with your differential.
> >
> > While what Gabe says
about the possible impact on
> > differentials/VCU is true,
>
> it is not necessary to replace all four tires in such a situation.
>
>
> > What is critical from a differential/VCU perspective is
the
> > circumference of
> > the tire. What is critical from a
performance/handling perspective
> > is tire
> > construction
and tread.
> >
> > If you were able to match the same
brand/model of tire, I would
> > have the new
> > one shaved
down to the depth of the existing tires. This should
> > make
them
> > the same rolling circumference which is what is
critical.
> >
> > My girlfriend's WRX recently had a single
tire slashed and we were
> > able to
> > find one used for $20
with more tread, had it mounted, shaved and
> > balancedfor another $30
at the one and only shaver in Reno, and it
> > is like she has
a
> > matched set again. We would have done the same with a new tire if
we
> > couldn't find a used tire that was a perfect match.
>
>
> > It may be a challenge to find a local shop in the area with
a
> > shaver, but it
> > can be done. There is usually at
least one in any reasonably large
> > city.
> > Now if the
single new tire is not the same brand/model as the
> > other 3,
then
> > they really did you a disservice. now in addition to
possible
> > differentialwear, your handling will not be consistent. In
this
> > case, I would definitely
> > go back and
complain.
> >
> >
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 19:03:36
-0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: tire wear
Good to know, thanks!
Charles Canney
-
-----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Subject: RE: Team3S: tire wear
All Discount Tire's follow a
simple rule... On an AWD car, if a tire needs
to be replaced, it must
have less than 4/32 difference in tread depth when
compared to the other
tires. It must also be of the exact same make, brand,
etc. If
they ever argue this with you, tell them to look in their red book,
which
should be attached to their belt...
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 20:06:21
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: tire wear
Driving force is the most wear intensive item for
tires.
Short of overdriving every corner, which will wear front tires even
on a rear wheel drive.
So you have approx 50% drive, 95% steering,
and 70-80% braking all done
by
the front wheels/tires. Front tires will
wear almost twice as fast.
Skyrider
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ioan Raicu [mailto:iraicu@cs.wayne.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 4:07 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: tire
wear
I have two new tires (10/32 thread) on the back, and two older
tires
(less than 1 year old) with 6/32 thread left on the front; I
always
thought the rears wear faster, can someone comment on why the
fronts
would wear faster?
Can I assume that my situation is
somewhat better than if 3 were of
equal size and only 1 was different?
I would be more than willing to
shave those two newer tires, but I never
thought (I looked into it a few
years back) it was possible to do accurately
enough where they could
guarantee that the amount of thread you have left is
exactly what you
need.
John Raicu
94 Yellow
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:03:21
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Painting the engine bay???
No magic involved --- I'd use a good
automotive paint and cleanup and prep
is important. Paint won't stick to oil
or dirt, they do make a liquid sandpaper
that helps clean up the surface.
High temp paint should not be
required.
Jim
Berry
================================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Ved" <
1994TT@comcast.net>
To: <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 2:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: Painting the engine
bay???
> I am thinking about painting my engine bay black, while
the engine is out of
> the car and being rebuilt. Would it be safe
just to paint over the original
> paint. Also, if it's safe, what
kind of paint should I use. I want the
> top of the engine bay
to be gloss.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:08:19
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
The no touch rule has been around for a
while --- the cat back is the only thing
that your free to mess with. That's
why there are so many cat back systems and
little to choose from before the
cat. I've heard the one where you can't change the
cat just to put in a high
flow cat --- you cant mess with or change the stuff in front
of the cat.
Shops doing so can have their pee-pee whacked by the
Gment.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
> Just got back from my favorite
place, Denny's Mufflers here in Cedar Rapids
> (the rejuvenation and race
prep of my 125,000 mile AWD Talon has begun!)
> where they told me some
disturbing news.
>
> It seems that recent EPA rules now
say:
>
> 1. A shop cannot install parts that increase the OD of an
exhaust system
> beyond that of stock.
>
> 2. A shop still
cannot remove a cat under any circumstances; but now, if
> they do exhaust
work on a car where the cat has been removed, they must
> install a new
one, or they can't do the work. "Sorry, bud, gotta put a cat
> on
there."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 20:13:05
-0500 (CDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
You CAN legally go aftermarket
on the cat after 70,000 miles. Before
then..legally it has to be
OEM.
On Wed, 30 Jul 2003, fastmax wrote:
> The no touch rule
has been around for a while --- the cat back is the only thing
> that your
free to mess with. That's why there are so many cat back systems and
>
little to choose from before the cat. I've heard the one where you can't change
the
> cat just to put in a high flow cat --- you cant mess with or change
the stuff in front
> of the cat. Shops doing so can have their pee-pee
whacked by the Gment.
>
> Jim Berry
>
===========================================
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
Subject: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
>
>
> > Just got
back from my favorite place, Denny's Mufflers here in Cedar Rapids
> >
(the rejuvenation and race prep of my 125,000 mile AWD Talon has begun!)
>
> where they told me some disturbing news.
> >
> > It
seems that recent EPA rules now say:
> >
> > 1. A shop cannot
install parts that increase the OD of an exhaust system
> > beyond that
of stock.
> >
> > 2. A shop still cannot remove a cat under
any circumstances; but now, if
> > they do exhaust work on a car where
the cat has been removed, they must
> > install a new one, or they
can't do the work. "Sorry, bud, gotta put a cat
> > on there."
>
>
>
>
> --
> To sub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'subscribe 3sracers'.
> To unsub: Email
majordomo@speedtoys.com with a body of
'unsubscribe 3sracers'
> "Ban low performance drivers, not high
performance cars."
>
- ---
www.SpeedToys.com: Geoff Mohler
orders@speedtoys.comTeam3S/3Si.org
Vendor approved brake discounter; also,
parts for Toyota, Audi, BMW,
Mercedes, Porsche, SAAB, Volvo.
Where do you buy YOUR brakes? I can
help...asking is free! :)
"If its in stock, we have
it!"
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 30 Jul 2003 21:39:45
-0400
From: Planet <
planet.j@sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: SOHC Downpipe and Check Engine light
Hello everyone, does anyone
have a SOHC downpipe they could sell or even
'give' to me. Mine is completely
gone. I cant afford the 500$ to replace
it right now. I would take a stock
one if someone has upgraded. I know
selection is limited because everyone has
TT or DOHC. Its a 92 Stealth
SOHC.
Also, one more technical question.
Im getting a check engine light that
i diagnosed to be the oxygen sensor.
Question is, is it throwing the CE
light because its picking up wrong values
since my downpipe is leaking.
Or is my oxygen sensor
bad?
Thanks
Jay
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2003 18:18:33
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
Hydrocarbons are very high --- even
though it passes. My HC's were
around 8 the last time I did the
tests.
My guess is a misfire --- check plugs and wires, a marginal
connection
can cause an occasional misfire and high
readings.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
>
Here are the actual test results in Georgia.
>
> 25/25
TEST
>
========
>
> TEST
READING ALLOWED
RESULT
> --------
--------------
--------------- -----------
> HC
pps
132
120
*FAILED
> CO %
0.81
0.67
*FAILED
>
NOxpp
357
848
PASS
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 10:30:17
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Experience in Body kit quality ?
The car really had an
accident but this only cracked the bumper. The
Pitroad M stuff is worse
quality than I expected. Expensive and the work to
make it fit will cost
close as much as the bumper itselfs. It's not
completely shit, but about 90%
:-/
Roger G.
93 & 96 3000GT TT
www.rtec.chAt 21:13 29.07.2003 -0600,
Moe Prasad wrote:
>I wonder if the car was in an accident causing the kit
not to fit.
>
>I have seen kits come and they are complete
shit. The just don't fit.
>
>Rgds
>Moe
>-----
Original Message -----
>From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
>To:
"Team3S" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Sent:
Tuesday, July 29, 2003 4:48 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Experience in Body kit
quality ?
>
>
> > Guys,
> >
> > I just
sold a guy in Germany a bodykit that looked good on pictures
but
>the
> > fittment is horrible. The front has gaps of up to 2
inches around the
>lights
> > and doesn't line up. Furthermore
the side steps are somewhat bent and if
> > cutting the parts it will
not fot the front fender anymore. The body shop
>in
> > Germany
said that the front bumper is almost impossible to make it
nice.
>The
> > sideskirts, maybe with some heating and bending
the fiberglass may be able
> > to be stretched into the desired
position.
> >
> > Something similar to the under spoiler from
KAZE that was also not the
>best
> > quality when Luis from Spain
installed it. The one that I have seems to
>fit
> > good but also
needs some work too.
> >
> > So what's your experiences in
aftermarket bumpers, spoilers and body kits.
> > How much work was
involed until the looked good on your car ? It seems
>that
> >
some molds getting damaged over the time and so the resulting
bumper
>becomes
> > messy or not even on the sides (like it is
bent). What about Pitroad M, or
> > Bomex ? How much did you pay to
make it fit ?
> >
> > Thanks in advance
> > Roger
G.
> > 93 & 96 3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch> >
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 09:22:15
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
I agree with the capacitor
theory. They are pretty easy to check and change if necessary. Take
your ECU out, take off the cover, and smell the three largest caps. If
they smell like rotten fish, they're toast. If you find that the leakage
caused extensive damage to the board, then you can get a replacement ECU for
MUCH LESS than $1400-1800 you've been quoted. There's a company out there
(c'mon, help me out here guys) that will sell you a completely refurbished ECU
for, I think, around $400 or so.
Above email is for intended
recipient only and may be confidential and protected by attorney/client
privilege.
If you are not the intended recipient, please advise the sender
immediately.
Unauthorized use or distribution is prohibited and may be
unlawful.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 08:46:15
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
M&S recycling sells
refurbished ECUs.
There are others.
Chuck Willis
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 8:22 AM
To: Ken
Stanton;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
I agree with the
capacitor theory. They are pretty easy to check and change if
necessary. Take your ECU out, take off the cover, and smell the three
largest caps. If they smell like rotten fish, they're toast. If you
find that the leakage caused extensive damage to the board, then you can get a
replacement ECU for MUCH LESS than $1400-1800 you've been quoted. There's
a company out there (c'mon, help me out here guys) that will sell you a
completely refurbished ECU for, I think, around $400 or so.
Above email is for intended recipient only and may be confidential
and protected by attorney/client privilege.
If you are not the intended
recipient, please advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized use or
distribution is prohibited and may be unlawful.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:52:17
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
ECU repair
shops:
http://www.stealth316.com/1-repair.htm#S15Jeff
Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
To: "Ken Stanton"
<
ken.c.stanton@usa.net>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, July 31, 2003 7:22 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T
Ignition Problems
I agree with the capacitor theory. They are
pretty easy to check and change if necessary. Take your ECU out, take off
the cover, and smell the three largest caps. If they smell like rotten
fish, they're toast. If you find that the leakage caused extensive damage
to the board, then you can get a replacement ECU for MUCH LESS than $1400-1800
you've been quoted. There's a company out there (c'mon, help me out here
guys) that will sell you a completely refurbished ECU for, I think, around $400
or so.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:55:56
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta Ga. (results)
HCs are measured in
different manners. Presently, Colorado state measures my '92 TT (exempt from I/M
240) using ppm (parts per million). In 1997 and earlier, HCs were measured in
gpm (grams per mile). Also, individual State and Federal limits for HC and other
pollutants may be different.
This year, the limits are for HC-ppm 220,
for CO-% 0.71, for CO2-% 12.611. NOx is not tested because the AWD Stealth is
exempt from I/M 240 in Colorado (the car is not put on rollers).
This
year I failed the first test with both low-speed (~700 rpm) idle and high-speed
(~2500 rpm) idle HC readings way over the 300 ppm level. Other emissions were
OK.
I knew I had a misfire problem and suspected this was the cause of
the high HC - unburned fuel. I could tell I was having misfires because the
strobe on my timing light pulsed irregularly and the rpm display on the timing
light showed 1400's most the time (our wasted spark ignition) with some 700's
thrown in (misfires).
I replaced the spark plugs with new ones of the
same type (copper NGK BCPR6ES-11) but gapped them to 0.040" (factory spec)
instead of the 0.028" I had them at. At the same time I installed the MSD 8.5mm
Super Conductor Wire Set (part number 31199; $75.95 from Summit; working on web
page). The result was no misfires. I replaced the coils and power transistor
after I had checked for misfires and had found none.
The point of
increasing the spark gap back to stock is to get a stronger spark and so
hopefully better combustion during the emissions tests. I have left the gap at
0.040" and have not noticed misfires (sensing and using datalogs) with boosting
up to 15.5 psi (15Gs, ARC2, fuel mods, etc.).
When I went back in for the
second emissions test I failed again. Low speed idle HCs were only 27 ppm! But
high speed idle was 250. I knew what the problem was as soon as I heard the
tester having trouble holding a constant 2500 rpm. I had the ARC2 set too lean.
Idle speed fluctuated in a cyclic manner from 2000 to 2500 to 2000.
I
turned the ARC2 Low up 1 click (slightly richer) and went back in two days later
(third test). High idle was steady and the tests were a little over 100 ppm for
HC for low and high speed idle. The car passed.
As others have mentioned
high HC is probably do to misfires (plugs and wires) or poor A/F ratio -
basically unburned or partially burned fuel. Of course, bad O2 sensors will not
help. I had replaced mine only a few thousand miles ago.
High CO occurs
when the A/F is too rich.
High NOx occur when the combustion temp is too
hot.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: "Williams, Tommy F"
<
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>;
<
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Emissions in Atlanta
Ga. (results)
Hydrocarbons are very high --- even though it passes.
My HC's were
around 8 the last time I did the tests.
My guess is a
misfire --- check plugs and wires, a marginal connection
can cause an
occasional misfire and high
readings.
Jim
Berry
============================================
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Williams, Tommy F" <
WilliamsTF@bernstein.com>
>
Here are the actual test results in Georgia.
>
> 25/25
TEST
>
========
>
> TEST
READING ALLOWED
RESULT
> --------
--------------
--------------- -----------
> HC
pps
132
120
*FAILED
> CO %
0.81
0.67
*FAILED
>
NOxpp
357
848
PASS
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:59:48
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
Some interesting
links:
http://www.epa.gov/Compliance/resources/policies/civil/caa/mobile/exhaust-guide-rpt.pdfhttp://search.epa.gov/s97is.vtsThe
short answer is we are not allowed legally to do anything to our exhaust system
other than repair back to the "as certified" condition. We are not allowed to
"decertify" an automobile (such as replacing the cat with a pipe or installing a
true dual exhaust system) even for of-road only use.
As far as replacing
the cat, here is what I found.
"EPA regulations under the 1990 Clean Air
Act Amendments require that catalytic converters be warranteed for eight years
or 80,000 miles for 1995 and newer vehicles, and for five years or 50,000 miles
for vehicles built before 1995."
I take that to mean the owner of a
1991-1994 3S car may replace the cat with another one after 5 years or 50,000
miles. Except for transporting the car to another country, we ar not allowed to
remove (eliminate) the cat for any reason.
I imagine EPA and most
government agencies (local, state, or federal) realize the futility of actually
enforcing all government regulations.
>From the Stealth316 disclaimer
web page:
"However, the clearly enumerated powers of Congress in Article. I.
Section. 8. of The Constitution of the United States do not mention or infer the
power to regulate the quality of the air we breath, water we drink, or ground we
drive on, or to regulate the construction, modification, purpose, power, or
aesthetic appeal of our motor vehicles. These last powers are derived (or
stolen, depending on your perspective) from you, the citizens of the United
States."
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
To: <
3sracers@speedtoys.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, July 30, 2003 7:08 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler
rules?
The no touch rule has been around for a while --- the cat back
is the only thing that your free to mess with. That's why there are so many cat
back systems and little to choose from before the cat. I've heard the one where
you can't change the cat just to put in a high flow cat --- you cant mess with
or change the stuff in front of the cat. Shops doing so can have their pee-pee
whacked by the Gment.
Jim
Berry
===========================================
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
> Just got back from my favorite
place, Denny's Mufflers here in Cedar Rapids
> (the rejuvenation and race
prep of my 125,000 mile AWD Talon has begun!)
> where they told me some
disturbing news.
>
> It seems that recent EPA rules now
say:
>
> 1. A shop cannot install parts that increase the OD of an
exhaust system
> beyond that of stock.
>
> 2. A shop still
cannot remove a cat under any circumstances; but now, if
> they do exhaust
work on a car where the cat has been removed, they must
> install a new
one, or they can't do the work. "Sorry, bud, gotta put a cat
> on
there."
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:01:16
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crank Angle Position Sensor Alignment
The Electrical Volume,
Ignition Section (p. 8-190 in the '92 manual) describes how to install the CAS
for 1991-1992 models. Be sure piston #1 is at TDC at the end of the combustion
stroke (all valves closed) and be sure the mating marks on the CAS are aligned.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-cas-91-92.htmThe
manual warns against having piston #4 at combustion TDC. It is a good warning
too. The mechanic the re-built my engine didn't know the difference. When we
first tried to start the engine after the rebuild it would not start. After the
CAS was re-aligned correctly, it fired right up.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July
29, 2003 1:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Crank Angle Position Sensor
Alignment
Greetings,
I am reassembling the engine after replacing
24 valves and numerous other
expensive parts. I installed the crank angle
sensor on the end of the
camshaft last weekend but am concerned about
alignment. Can the sensor be installed 180 degrees off? Or does the ECU not care
because it fires two
plugs every time (wasted spark system) anyway? It was
not addressed in the service manual and searches turned up nothing.
Thanks
for your help.
Charles Canney
'91 Stealth TT
Ft Worth
TX
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 10:06:37
-0400
From: Lesperance LCpl Thomas J <
LesperanceTJ@2MAWBFT.usmc.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Car Won't Spark
Hello,
I have a '96 basic model 3000gt. I
took the car to the mechanics to
have the water pump changed. I come to find
out that the garage wasn't
exactly reputable. Here they called me saying the
car died on the test
drive. It started up, but on the last turn of the test
ride it died and
wouldn't restart. After many awkward stories I took my car
back to the air
base. I hooked the computer up to it only to discover there
were no failure
codes. The engine is turning over, and all electronics inside
the car and
outside (ie lights) are working. I'm not getting any spark on any
of the
plugs. The wires and plugs are good, and being an electrician it's
hard to
imagine 3 coil packs going bad at once. Considering there were no
codes that
rules out my Crankshaft positioning sensor and my coil pack
module. The cams
are turning when cranking it over, and all fuses are good.
Does anyone have
any suggestion as to what can be causing this problem? I can
be emailed at
Sincerely,
Tom
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 09:10:46
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
So, if we replace the cat
with an actual high flow cat, are we "decertifying" the vehicle?
If not,
what high flow cats are available for our cars?
Chuck
Willis
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 11:05:29
-0400
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
Very interesting, indeed.
So, by a show of hands, any violators out there? LOL ;)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 10:00 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
Some interesting
links:
http://www.epa.gov/Compliance/resources/policies/civil/caa/mobile/exhaust-guide-rpt.pdfhttp://search.epa.gov/s97is.vtsAbove
email is for intended recipient only and may be confidential and protected by
attorney/client privilege.
If you are not the intended recipient, please
advise the sender immediately.
Unauthorized use or distribution is prohibited
and may be unlawful.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 10:06:37
-0500
From: "Wieschhaus, Brandon Kenneth (UMR-Student)" <
bwish@umr.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1992
Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
Jessica, while I haven't played around with
my own ignition system, I can diagnose your stereo problems for ya. =0) There
are leads on the radio that require constant power (for the clock), and keyed
power (for everything else). Dig around behind your stereo and see if you can't
dig up a loose wire or something that is key-powered and hook that up to the
proper wire on your radio, then you're set. Go engineers!! =0)
"Good
luck, and excellent career choice ;" Dammit Ken... =0) I knew you'd probably
pipe up about that...
-b
94 Stealth Base, Black,
"B's Badass Base"
BSME, University of Missouri-Rolla
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ken Stanton [mailto:ken.c.stanton@usa.net]
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
Good luck, and excellent
career choice ;)
Ken Stanton
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jessica T" <
jessicat@uslink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 1992 Stealth R/T Ignition Problems
> This is my first email to
the Team 3S list. My name is Jessica and I am
an
> electrical
engineering student who only knows the basics when it comes to
> cars.
Now
> all features of the stereo work (including the steering buttons
which did
> not previously work), but now the stereo will stay on even
without the
> ignition key. I don't think this is normal.
There is no sound (no power
to
> the speakers) but there is constant
power to the stereo. Without a key I
> power up the stereo
(and power antenna) and put cd's into and out of the
cd
> player.
We still must have some issues with the wiring.
>
> Jessica
T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:45:22
-0500
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Update:
Thanks for everyone's
thoughts on my car late last week when I thought
(read: HOPED) that I had a
failing or failed oil pump. Wanted to let
everyone know that I finally
got around to draining the oil. It seems the
reason that I was getting
a low oil pressure light is because of the fine
metal "silt" that was
clogging my oil filter. after draining the oil, I
stuck a telescoping
magnet into the drain hole. It came out with a mostly
intact (albeit,
bent all to hell) thrust bearing. DAMN!
I'm already halfway to
pulling the motor out of the car (AGAIN!!!). I
figured pulling it is
probably just as easy as working on replacing the
crank and or bearings
upside down on a garage floor. Besides, getting that
damn getrag into
place with the motor in the car is not fun, I'd rather pull
them and drop
them back in as a unit.
This is the THIRD time since I've owned the car
that a bearing has failed.
First time, it started ticking and turned into a
knock. The crank and
bearings were replaced under an extended warranty
that I had at that time.
The SECOND time, I had a wreck that drained the
motor of oil while the car
sat idling, I had the crank and block both
machined. NOW, the car was NOT
low on oil this time and I was cautious
to the point of paranoia when
installing the bearings and crank. I
started driving the car again as of
this last memorial day. I've
accumulated less than 1,500 miles since
completing the
rebuild.
Question is this: Why has a bearing
failed? Is it possible that the
block itself has some fatal flaw that
causes this to keep happening?
I'll let you that are interested know more
as I get deeper into this. but as
always, any thoughts on the matter are
highly valued.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T TT(3SI #0499)
2k Jeep TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:18:38
-0500
From: "Nick McDermott" <
eire1274@cox.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
Who... me? Um...
why?
Nick
99 Chevy Venture
97 Buick Skylark (dead)
93
VR-4*
93 Ford Tempo GL
85 Ford F-250* (sold)
78 Plymouth Volare
Premier* (sold)
76 Pontiac Grand Prix*
72 Chevy Nova* (dead)
I'll
let you guys guess what the * means.
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Starkey, Jr., Joseph
Sent:
Thursday, July 31, 2003 10:05 AM
To: Jeff Lucius;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
Very interesting,
indeed. So, by a show of hands, any violators out
there? LOL
;)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius
[mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 10:00 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: New muffler rules?
Some interesting
links:
http://www.epa.gov/Compliance/resources/policies/civil/caa/mobile/exhaust-guide-rpt.pdf
http://search.epa.gov/s97is.vtsAbove
email is for intended recipient only and may be confidential and
protected by
attorney/client privilege.
If you are not the intended recipient, please
advise the sender
immediately.
Unauthorized use or distribution is
prohibited and may be unlawful.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 13:45:20
-0500
From: "Canney, Charles C" <
charles.c.canney@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crank Angle Position Sensor Alignment
Thanks, exactly what I
needed. With luck, I will get to start the engine
this weekend.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:jlucius@stealth316.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 9:01 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Crank Angle Position Sensor Alignment
The Electrical Volume, Ignition
Section (p. 8-190 in the '92 manual)
describes how to install the CAS for
1991-1992 models. Be sure piston #1 is
at TDC at the end of the combustion
stroke (all valves closed) and be sure
the mating marks on the CAS are
aligned.
http://www.stealth316.com/2-cas-91-92.htmThe
manual warns against having piston #4 at combustion TDC. It is a good
warning
too. The mechanic the re-built my engine didn't know the difference.
When we
first tried to start the engine after the rebuild it would not
start. After
the CAS was re-aligned correctly, it fired right up.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:21:48
-0700
From: "Andy" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Jeff: Was the engine line
bored when it was last rebuilt? If not, it should
definitly be checked
now.
Andy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "William J.
Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
July 31, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil
pump
> Update:
>
> Thanks for everyone's thoughts on
my car late last week when I thought
> (read: HOPED) that I had a failing
or failed oil pump. Wanted to let
> everyone know that I finally got
around to draining the oil. It seems the
> reason that I was getting
a low oil pressure light is because of the fine
> metal "silt" that was
clogging my oil filter. after draining the oil, I
> stuck a
telescoping magnet into the drain hole. It came out with a mostly
>
intact (albeit, bent all to hell) thrust bearing. DAMN!
>
>
I'm already halfway to pulling the motor out of the car (AGAIN!!!).
I
> figured pulling it is probably just as easy as working on replacing
the
> crank and or bearings upside down on a garage floor. Besides,
getting
that
> damn getrag into place with the motor in the car is not
fun, I'd rather
pull
> them and drop them back in as a
unit.
>
> This is the THIRD time since I've owned the car that a
bearing has failed.
> First time, it started ticking and turned into a
knock. The crank and
> bearings were replaced under an extended
warranty that I had at that time.
> The SECOND time, I had a wreck that
drained the motor of oil while the car
> sat idling, I had the crank and
block both machined. NOW, the car was NOT
> low on oil this time and
I was cautious to the point of paranoia when
> installing the bearings and
crank. I started driving the car again as of
> this last memorial
day. I've accumulated less than 1,500 miles since
> completing the
rebuild.
>
> Question is this: Why has a bearing
failed? Is it possible that the
> block itself has some fatal flaw
that causes this to keep happening?
>
> I'll let you that are
interested know more as I get deeper into this. but
as
> always, any
thoughts on the matter are highly valued.
>
> -Jeff Crabtree
>
'91 R/T TT(3SI #0499)
> 2k Jeep TJ Sport
> St. Louis,
MO
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:29:51
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
Good question. When Jeff
said the case was machined, I assumed he also included having it line
bored.
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy
[mailto:awoll1@pacbell.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 2:22 PM
To:
William J. Crabtree; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil
pump
Jeff: Was the engine line bored when it was last rebuilt?
If not, it should
definitly be checked now.
Andy
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Thursday,
July 31, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil
pump
> Update:
>
> Thanks for everyone's thoughts on
my car late last week when I thought
> (read: HOPED) that I had a failing
or failed oil pump. Wanted to let
> everyone know that I finally got
around to draining the oil. It seems the
> reason that I was getting
a low oil pressure light is because of the fine
> metal "silt" that was
clogging my oil filter. after draining the oil, I
> stuck a
telescoping magnet into the drain hole. It came out with a mostly
>
intact (albeit, bent all to hell) thrust bearing. DAMN!
>
>
I'm already halfway to pulling the motor out of the car (AGAIN!!!).
I
> figured pulling it is probably just as easy as working on replacing
the
> crank and or bearings upside down on a garage floor. Besides,
getting
that
> damn getrag into place with the motor in the car is not
fun, I'd rather
pull
> them and drop them back in as a
unit.
>
> This is the THIRD time since I've owned the car that a
bearing has failed.
> First time, it started ticking and turned into a
knock. The crank and
> bearings were replaced under an extended
warranty that I had at that time.
> The SECOND time, I had a wreck that
drained the motor of oil while the car
> sat idling, I had the crank and
block both machined. NOW, the car was NOT
> low on oil this time and
I was cautious to the point of paranoia when
> installing the bearings and
crank. I started driving the car again as of
> this last memorial
day. I've accumulated less than 1,500 miles since
> completing the
rebuild.
>
> Question is this: Why has a bearing
failed? Is it possible that the
> block itself has some fatal flaw
that causes this to keep happening?
>
> I'll let you that are
interested know more as I get deeper into this. but
as
> always, any
thoughts on the matter are highly valued.
>
> -Jeff Crabtree
>
'91 R/T TT(3SI #0499)
> 2k Jeep TJ Sport
> St. Louis,
MO
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 19:30:49
+0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: Re:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
> Question is this: Why has a
bearing failed? Is
> it possible that the block itself has some
fatal
> flaw that causes this to keep happening?
What did your oil
clearance measure out to when you replaced the bearings last
time?
What did the end-play measure on the crank at the thrust bearings?
Which
bearings did you use?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 14:52:06
-0500
From: <
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
This is a little off topic
but...
I will say this, I have owned many used sports cars, most
of
them driven hard before I owned them..many of them
abused. And I have had
more problems with my Dodge stealth
with under 90K on it then all of them
put together.
My personal opinion is that these cars are junk. Poorly
manufactured with lousy mechanicals.
My car is a '92 R/T with only
86K miles on it. I has had
an engine and transmission replaced..and those
are just
the major items. The mechanic told me "no this does not
show
signs of abuse, these cars just don't last".
My car was over $30K when
it was new.
This is rediculous. I will never, never, ever buy another
mitusbishi built vehicle in my entire life.
Nick
On Thu, 31
Jul 2003 12:45:22 -0500
"William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
wrote:
>Update:
>
>Thanks for everyone's thoughts on my car
late last week
>when I thought
>(read: HOPED) that I had a failing
or failed oil pump.
> Wanted to let
>everyone know that I finally
got around to draining the
>oil. It seems the
>reason that I
was getting a low oil pressure light is
>because of the fine
>metal
"silt" that was clogging my oil filter. after
>draining the oil,
I
>stuck a telescoping magnet into the drain hole. It came
>out with a mostly
>intact (albeit, bent all to hell) thrust
bearing. DAMN!
>
>I'm already halfway to pulling the motor out
of the car
>(AGAIN!!!). I
>figured pulling it is probably
just as easy as working on
>replacing the
>crank and or bearings
upside down on a garage floor.
> Besides, getting that
>damn getrag
into place with the motor in the car is not
>fun, I'd rather
pull
>them and drop them back in as a unit.
>
>This is the
THIRD time since I've owned the car that a
>bearing has
failed.
>First time, it started ticking and turned into a knock.
>
The crank and
>bearings were replaced under an extended warranty that I
>had at that time.
>The SECOND time, I had a wreck that drained the
motor of
>oil while the car
>sat idling, I had the crank and block
both machined.
> NOW, the car was NOT
>low on oil this time and I
was cautious to the point of
>paranoia when
>installing the
bearings and crank. I started driving the
>car again as
of
>this last memorial day. I've accumulated less than 1,500
>miles since
>completing the rebuild.
>
>Question is
this: Why has a bearing failed? Is it
>possible
that the
>block itself has some fatal flaw that causes this to keep
>happening?
>
>I'll let you that are interested know more as
I get
>deeper into this. but as
>always, any thoughts on the matter
are highly valued.
>
>-Jeff Crabtree
> '91 R/T TT(3SI
#0499)
> 2k Jeep TJ Sport
> St. Louis,
MO
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 2003 15:43:16
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
That's funny, while I have some
nagging little problems with my Eagle
Talon, it is a '91 with 145k miles on
it, and running 18 psi boost, and
a few aftermarket goodies, still ticks off
low 13 second 1/4 mile times
on pump gas, with factory turbo, motor, tranny,
etc...
- -Cody
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On
Behalf
> Of
altieris@tulsaconnect.com>
Sent: Thursday, July 31, 2003 2:52 PM
> To:
Team3S@team3s.com> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bearing failed, not oil pump
>
> This is a little off topic
but...
>
> I will say this, I have owned many used sports cars,
most
> of them driven hard before I owned them..many of them
>
abused. And I have had more problems with my Dodge stealth
> with under
90K on it then all of them put together.
>
> My personal opinion is
that these cars are junk. Poorly
> manufactured with lousy
mechanicals.
>
> My car is a '92 R/T with only 86K miles on it. I
has had
> an engine and transmission replaced..and those are just
>
the major items. The mechanic told me "no this does not
> show signs of
abuse, these cars just don't last".
>
> My car was over $30K when
it was new.
>
> This is rediculous. I will never, never, ever buy
another
> mitusbishi built vehicle in my entire life.
>
>
Nick
>
> On Thu, 31 Jul 2003 12:45:22 -0500
>
"William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
wrote:
> >Update:
> >
> >Thanks for everyone's
thoughts on my car late last week
> >when I thought
> >(read:
HOPED) that I had a failing or failed oil pump.
> > Wanted to
let
> >everyone know that I finally got around to draining the
>
>oil. It seems the
> >reason that I was getting a low oil
pressure light is
> >because of the fine
> >metal "silt" that
was clogging my oil filter. after
> >draining the oil, I
>
>stuck a telescoping magnet into the drain hole. It came
>
>out with a mostly
> >intact (albeit, bent all to hell) thrust
bearing. DAMN!
> >
> >I'm already halfway to pulling the
motor out of the car
> >(AGAIN!!!). I
> >figured pulling
it is probably just as easy as working on
> >replacing the
>
>crank and or bearings upside down on a garage floor.
> > Besides,
getting that
> >damn getrag into place with the motor in the car is
not
> >fun, I'd rather pull
> >them and drop them back in as a
unit.
> >
> >This is the THIRD time since I've owned the car
that a
> >bearing has failed.
> >First time, it started
ticking and turned into a knock.
> > The crank and
> >bearings
were replaced under an extended warranty that I
> >had at that
time.
> >The SECOND time, I had a wreck that drained the motor
of
> >oil while the car
> >sat idling, I had the crank and
block both machined.
> > NOW, the car was NOT
> >low on oil
this time and I was cautious to the point of
> >paranoia when
>
>installing the bearings and crank. I started driving the
>
>car again as of
> >this last memorial day. I've accumulated
less than 1,500
> >miles since
> >completing the
rebuild.
> >
> >Question is this: Why has a
bearing failed? Is it
> >possible that the
> >block
itself has some fatal flaw that causes this to keep
>
>happening?
> >
> >I'll let you that are interested know
more as I get
> >deeper into this. but as
> >always, any
thoughts on the matter are highly valued.
> >
> >-Jeff
Crabtree
> > '91 R/T TT(3SI #0499)
> > 2k Jeep TJ
Sport
> > St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#217
***************************************
