Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Saturday, March 29
2003 Volume 02 : Number
116
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 28 Mar 2003 04:42:51 -0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: !!: Anyone in LA!!
If there is anyone in the LA area who
would be available to pick up a part
in Costa Mesa, and get it to NorCal
tomorrow..and probly be paid OK for
it..Email me at
gemohler@speedtoys.com subject DELIVERY
ASAP.
Of course, being unemployed would be a good thing..unless youve a
few days
off.
You'll hit Costa Mesa, head up to San Jose..have to be
here by 4pm, you
can stay at my place overnight, and drive back sat AM, or
come watch us
teat up someone else's car at the
http://www.mazdarevitup.com event
I
signed up for. :)
The parts are not for me, but a customer,
who may be willing to pay well
for this delivery.
I'll be checking
Email at about..7am..I hope.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 08:55:07
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tire choices
Okay, I've managed to confuse myself trying to do the
math.
I have a 17x8 rim, and I was considering getting a 245/45 tire for
it.
Now, a 245/45 tire has a width of 245 * .55 = 134.75mm or 13.45cm
which
is roughly 5.3" ? That doesn't sound right... because the tire
doesn't
look like it's narrower than the rim (I have that size on there
right
now).
Now, by the same math, a 255/40 would have a width of 6"
which is closer
to the rim width. Should I get those (they cost exactly the
same)?
I've decided to go with the yoko avs es100. Now I just need to
figure
out the size.
Thanks,
Alex.
P.S. - I won't be able
to afford anything other than the strip (or maybe
some autox) right now, so
no road courses in the foreseeable future.
This would be mostly a daily
driver.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 08:57:22
-0500
From: "Ken Lovell" <
wklovell@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: homelink Q
What brand is your garage door opener?
I don't
think the HomeLink system in the 3K works with Genie
Intellicode
openers. The newer homelink systems on other cars (I think
2000 or
newer) work with the rolling Genie Intellicode, but I don't think
the
older version of Homelink that we have works.
If you find a
magical hack to make it go, please let me know.
Ken
'97 VR4
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of
M3000GTSL84@aol.comSent: Thursday,
March 27, 2003 10:58 PM
To:
team3s@team3s.comSubject: Team3S:
homelink Q
97 (I think) and up cars can be equpped with the homelink
system. It
used to
work well until I got new garage door openers.
It learns the code fine
so it
seems, as I follow the instructions. The
doors just dont open. The car
manual
says it may not work with all
systems, but does anyone know a way around
this? Is the signal band of
the homelink not wide enough to get my new
opener
signal fully? I would
rather not have to carry a clunky opener. thank
you
- -Mike
97
SL
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 08:18:58
-0600
From: Jon Paine <
ppainej@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint
Paintscratch.com (color-rite) lists 2 colors for the
stealth in 1992 -
emerald green G48/PG2 and peacock green B60/PGA. I think
you're looking
for the peacock green. They list a different green for the
Mitsu green
that year, and it's definitely not the Dodge/Chrysler hunter
green.
http://www.paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/makepaint.cgiThey
definitely aren't the cheapest outfit out there, but they're a good
resource
for looking up paint codes. I've bought motorcycle paint
through them and
they made a perfect match for the original pearl black
metallic (a reallly
nasty color to match up).
Jon
Planet wrote:
> I have a 92
dodge stealth SOHC, I want to get some paint to touch up rock
> chips etc.
Is the paint code chrysler? because I couldn't match it up with
> the 92
chrysler paint codes. The paint code is on the plate under the hood.
>
Plate has mitsubishi logo, would it be a mitsubishi paint code? I have
no
> idea on this subject, can someone help me out with getting matching
paint. I
> got 92 chysler hunter green. Which seems to be a little darker
then what it
> was. Someone at chysler told me that there were only two
green's. Hunder and
> emerald green. I have seen an emerald green van, not
the same color. But
> hunter green doesn't match.
>
>
Jay
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 07:41:12
-0800 (PST)
From: glenn vrfour <
vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire choices
245 is the width at the widest part of the tire,
which
probably isn't the tread. The math you are doing is
to
determine the height of the sidewall.
If you want to skip the math
completely, most online
tire sources have a specifications link which
will
give you all the numbers with no math ;-)
Glenn
- --- Alex
Pedenko <
alex@kolosy.com>
wrote:
> Okay, I've managed to confuse myself trying to do
> the
math.
>
> I have a 17x8 rim, and I was considering getting
a
> 245/45 tire for it.
> Now, a 245/45 tire has a width of 245 *
.55 =
> 134.75mm or 13.45cm which
> is roughly 5.3" ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:44:45
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire choices
Oh my... Yes, you really confused
yourself....
245/45-17
Tire width is the first number in mm.
245 mm wide, or 9.65"
Sidewall height is what you were figuring out.
245 x .45 = 110.25 /25.4
= 4.34 "
Either tire would work fine, the
255/40 would be slightly shorter, which
isn't necessarily a horrible
thing...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Friday,
March 28, 2003 7:55 AM
To:
Team3S@team3s.comCc: 'cody'
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire choices
Okay, I've managed to confuse myself trying to
do the math.
I have a 17x8 rim, and I was considering getting a 245/45
tire for it.
Now, a 245/45 tire has a width of 245 * .55 = 134.75mm or
13.45cm which
is roughly 5.3" ? That doesn't sound right... because the tire
doesn't
look like it's narrower than the rim (I have that size on there
right
now).
Now, by the same math, a 255/40 would have a width of 6"
which is closer
to the rim width. Should I get those (they cost exactly the
same)?
I've decided to go with the yoko avs es100. Now I just need to
figure
out the size.
Thanks,
Alex.
P.S. - I won't be able
to afford anything other than the strip (or maybe
some autox) right now, so
no road courses in the foreseeable future.
This would be mostly a daily
driver.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:00:31
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tranny and T-Tops
Put a roll cage in and it will usually
compensate entirely for the top
removal. I too am thinking about doing
this, but have not checked with
any shops yet.
Kurt
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Tyson Varosyan [mailto:tigran@tigran.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2003 11:01 PM
To: 'MM3 Phillips, J';
'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tranny and T-Tops
Structure is the key
question here. First to say that anything is
possible.
The Spyders were
shipped to the US as hardtops and a shop in Cali
chopped
off the top and
made a convertible. From what I hear there is quite a
bit of
stuff under
the car to make the frame stay in one shape though...
Weight,
ack! The
Targa top (like Supra) you are talking about would certainly
be
a
challenge because you are removing part of the roof completely.
The
car's
shape works like an egg shell to support itself so doing a
change like
that
is a bad idea. However T-tops is something I have been
thinking about
for
more than 2 years now. Given small tops and some
reinforcement to the
roof
only it should be doable. I have yet to see or
hear of anyone doing
this.
Give it a shot, do a write-up, send
pictures.
Tyson
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:21:42
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Coil Question
For all you ignition coil gurus, is there any danger in
upgrading the
stock ignition coils to the Accel, MSD, the DynamicRacing kit,
etc. in a
car with stock injectors, ECU, fuel pump, and turbos? I just
got
finished reading the debate on whether using these more powerful
coils
results in a lean condition and am left hopelessly confused. Some
say
don't do it unless you can richen the mixture. Others say
stronger
coils have no effect. What do you think?
Thanks for
your input!
Joe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:28:41
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coil Question
The coils cannot possibly change the mixture in
the cylinder. By the time the coil comes into play, the valves are fully
shut, and the A/F mixture is what it is. Stronger coils (and thus a
stronger spark) might make the mixture combust more completely, I suppose, which
might make the mixture LOOK leaner. But in fact, it will be the same
mixture.
O2 sensors are funny, because they gather data about what
the A/F mixture looked like BEFORE combustion from looking at the exhaust gasses
AFTER combustion. They play a kind of detective game - using the amount of
oxygen left in the exhaust to infer the pre-combustion A/F ratio.
- - Brian
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Starkey,
Jr., Joseph [mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003
9:22 AM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: Coil
Question
>
>
> For all you ignition coil gurus, is there any
danger in upgrading the
> stock ignition coils to the Accel, MSD, the
DynamicRacing
> kit, etc. in a
> car with stock injectors, ECU,
fuel pump, and turbos? I just got
> finished reading the debate on
whether using these more powerful coils
> results in a lean condition and
am left hopelessly confused. Some say
> don't do it unless you can
richen the mixture. Others say stronger
> coils have no
effect. What do you think?
>
> Thanks for your input!
>
> Joe
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:35:21
-0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Coil Question
I suppose that's where the debate begins.
Since the O2 sensors measure
A/F ratio post-combustion and adjust the ECU
accordingly, does the ECU
then compensate for what it SEES as a leaner
condition by changing the
A/F mixture when, in fact, a leaner condition
doesn't really exist?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:36:07
-0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: Finally a new toy; to become JIC vs TEIN vs Stock
OK, who was getting
together to compare suspensions?
I finally jumped in the pool! Now have a
93 Green VR4.
Sorry, thought I'd have some pictures, but none yet.
Jim
B, I know you were interested. My VR4 is stock, but not for long, so
let's
get together. Right now I'm leaning towards JIC, but thinking I
need 75%
lighter springs, and reduced shock rate to match.
Kurt
96 NA (haven't
quite given up on it yet)
93 VR4 (looking for 2nd job to make this a
trackmobile)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:29:45
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tire choices
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex
Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
>
Okay, I've managed to confuse myself trying to do the math.
> I have a
17x8 rim, and I was considering getting a 245/45 tire for it. Now,
a 245/45
tire has a width of 245 * .55 = 134.75mm or 13.45cm which is roughly
5.3" ?
That doesn't sound right... because the tire doesn't look like it's
narrower
than the rim (I have that size on there right
> now).
> Now, by the
same math, a 255/40 would have a width of 6" which is closer to
the rim
width. Should I get those (they cost exactly the same)?
> I've decided to
go with the yoko avs es100. Now I just need to figure out
the size.
>
Thanks,
> Alex.
- --------------------->
255 is
millimeters. 25.4 per inch. Roughly 10" wide. Which is a
scoche too
wide for an 8" wheel, but OK on an 8.5". 245/45 is *just* OK
on an 8" rim.
Don't go wider than 245 or you'll sacrifice handling.
Ideal width for an 8"
wheel is 225-235. Look on the TireRack site for
the tire you want and click
'specs' - it will *tell* you the acceptable rim
width ranges.
The math is easy, and it's on Cody's "Plus Sizing Tires"
page on the Team3S
website; check the FAQ Index Page, under Wheels &
Tires...
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htmE.T.
tried some on the track (a friend's VR-4) and said they didn't cut it
for
ultra high-speed turns when cold, but liked them a lot when she warmed
them
up. He swears by the Yoko AVS ES100 and Nitto
555.
Best,
- ---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 09:52:28
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: 3S-Racers: RE: Finally a new toy; to become JIC vs TEIN vs
Stock
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
> Jim B, I know
you were interested. My VR4 is stock, but not for long, so
let's get
together. Right now I'm leaning towards JIC, but thinking I need 75%
lighter
springs, and reduced shock rate to match.
> Kurt
-
------------------------->
You should 'listen' to your own post from
last week about spring hardness.
:-) I've got the JICs on my VR-4 and
it IS bone jarring on any bumps at all.
You will have trouble with your back
if you even think about more than a 100
mile trip (like I take to
Thunderhill). They still haven't been set up
properly on my car, but
they are on the softest setting, lowered about 2"(?).
Ride-height before and
after comparison pic here:
www.Team3S.com/Images/Old-vs-NewSuspensionHeight.jpgHandling
is unbelievable, but this suspension is really for a "track-only"
car.
I love it, but I can't recommend them to anyone with a faint heart...
Knowing
you, though, you're probably as nuts as I am. Too bad you're not
coming
to Thunderhill next weekend 4/5-6/03- you could try them for yourself.
I'd
say to look for something in the 600lb front spring category - this is
784lb
and way hard.
- --Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 10:15:25
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Thunderhill HPDE April 5&6 - Big Team3S 'Gathering'!
To all
"Best Coast" members and friends:
Many of us have already signed up for
the NASA HPDE for April 5th & 6th, and
you should join us! NASA now
has lower rates ($286 for the weekend), but for
every 4 people who sign up,
the 5th person is FREE (which we divide out among
all members - it comes to
$228 per person!). We already have permission to
rope off a huge area
for Team3S (since we have "NASA Sanctioned" status),
which will be opposite
the NASA green tent at the event. Look for a bunch of
3S cars and
Geoff's big white Speedtoys trailer. Currently, we have the
following
people either signed up (or possible):
Bob Forrest, 3000GT VR-4
Eileen
Thomas "ET", Stealth NT
Geoff Mohler, Z-06
Nissa Mohler, Z-06
Ann Koch,
Stealth TT
Bil Ashurst, Stealth TT
Michael Gerhardt, 3000GT VR-4
Bob
Willingham 3000GT VR-4
Kim Willingham (hangin' out)
Rick Pierce 3000GT
VR-4
Lori Rogers, Stealth TT
Bryan Rogers, Vern Rogers (my engine
builders, hangin' out)
There's a great new motel up there in Willows -
Amerihost - and is offering
NASA members only $66 per night. More info
can be found: Check
http://www.amerihostinn.com/AmerihostInn/control/prop_detail?pid=13581Please
remember to sign up early for this event.
http://www.nasaproracing.comGroup
1-2 are almost full, but there is lots of room in Group 3 & 4.
Reply
privately or on the Team3S Racers List...
BE THERE!
-
---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:51:41
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: 3S-Racers: OT: Thunderhill HPDE April 5&6 - Big Team3S
'Gathering'!
Minor correction:
No big Speedtoys trailer, small
flatbed trailer this trip...we think.
COuld change.
On Fri, 28 Mar
2003, Bob Forrest wrote:
> To all "Best Coast" members and
friends:
>
> Many of us have already signed up for the NASA HPDE
for April 5th & 6th, and
> you should join us! NASA now has
lower rates ($286 for the weekend), but for
> every 4 people who sign up,
the 5th person is FREE (which we divide out among
> all members - it comes
to $228 per person!). We already have permission to
> rope off a
huge area for Team3S (since we have "NASA Sanctioned" status),
> which
will be opposite the NASA green tent at the event. Look for a bunch
of
> 3S cars and Geoff's big white Speedtoys trailer. Currently, we
have the
> following people either signed up (or possible):
>
> Bob Forrest, 3000GT VR-4
> Eileen Thomas "ET", Stealth NT
>
Geoff Mohler, Z-06
> Nissa Mohler, Z-06
> Ann Koch, Stealth
TT
> Bil Ashurst, Stealth TT
> Michael Gerhardt, 3000GT VR-4
>
Bob Willingham 3000GT VR-4
> Kim Willingham (hangin' out)
> Rick
Pierce 3000GT VR-4
> Lori Rogers, Stealth TT
> Bryan Rogers, Vern
Rogers (my engine builders, hangin' out)
>
> There's a great new
motel up there in Willows - Amerihost - and is offering
> NASA members
only $66 per night. More info can be found: Check
>
http://www.amerihostinn.com/AmerihostInn/control/prop_detail?pid=13581>
> Please remember to sign up early for this event.
>
http://www.nasaproracing.com>
> Group 1-2 are almost full, but there is lots of room in Group 3 &
4.
>
> Reply privately or on the Team3S Racers List...
>
> BE THERE!
>
> ---Forrest
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 10:04:23
-0800
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coil Question
Standard 02 sensors are designed and
manufactured to be very, very accurate at only one point - 14.7:1. An 02
sensor is really mean to act kind of like a digital input - high voltage
(>.85) is richer than 14.7:1, low voltage(<.15) is leaner. OEM ECU's
know this, and thus do not attempt to use the O2 sensor for anything but
determining a stoichiometric ratio.
The concerns most people have
about being "leaner" stem from their monitoring of the O2 sensor voltage to try
to determine AFRs richer than stoich. They see a .02v change, and read a
leaner mixture. This is one of the problems with attempting to use a
sensor outside of intended measurement range.
So, in a nutshell, your
stock ECU won't notice the very slight change in voltage, because all it uses
the 02 sensor for is to determine richer or leaner than stoich. .90v and
.92v, to the ECU, are the same.
- - Brian
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Starkey, Jr., Joseph
[mailto:starkeyje@bipc.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 9:35 AM
>
To: Geddes, Brian J; Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Coil
Question
>
>
> I suppose that's where the debate
begins. Since the O2
> sensors measure
> A/F ratio
post-combustion and adjust the ECU accordingly, does the ECU
> then
compensate for what it SEES as a leaner condition by changing the
> A/F
mixture when, in fact, a leaner condition doesn't really exist?
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 12:29
PM
> To: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Coil
Question
>
>
> The coils cannot possibly change the mixture
in the cylinder. By the
> time the coil comes into play, the valves
are fully shut, and the A/F
> mixture is what it is. Stronger coils
(and thus a stronger
> spark) might
> make the mixture combust more
completely, I suppose, which might make
> the mixture LOOK leaner.
But in fact, it will be the same mixture.
>
> O2 sensors are
funny, because they gather data about what the A/F
> mixture looked like
BEFORE combustion from looking at the
> exhaust gasses
> AFTER
combustion. They play a kind of detective game - using
> the
amount
> of oxygen left in the exhaust to infer the pre-combustion A/F
ratio.
>
> - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 14:33:34
-0500
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coil Question
The information below is the reason why Horiba
wideband O2 sensors typically
do not have a long service life (no more than
10K hours IIRC) but are
absolutely essential for tuning. Combine them
with a load bearing AWD dyno*
and you are now cooking with gas, and if done
properly have the good fuel
economy/emissions at cruise and low throttle
while making obscene power at
WOT.
*= Load bearing dyno's are
typically Mustang Brake Dyno's and Dyno Dynamic
brands, the Dyno Jet dyno's
supposedly have a load program in them but have
never heard of it being
used????
Russ F
CT
Finally got his settlement check and is now
going shopping to finish what he
started WOHOO!!!!!!!!!!!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
[mailto:brian.j.geddes@intel.com]
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 1:04 PM
To:
Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Coil Question
Standard 02
sensors are designed and manufactured to be very, very accurate
at only one
point - 14.7:1. An 02 sensor is really mean to act kind of like
a
digital input - high voltage (>.85) is richer than 14.7:1,
low
voltage(<.15) is leaner. OEM ECU's know this, and thus do not
attempt to
use the O2 sensor for anything but determining a stoichiometric
ratio.
The concerns most people have about being "leaner" stem
from their
monitoring of the O2 sensor voltage to try to determine AFRs
richer than
stoich. They see a .02v change, and read a leaner
mixture. This is one of
the problems with attempting to use a sensor
outside of intended measurement
range.
So, in a nutshell, your stock
ECU won't notice the very slight change in
voltage, because all it uses the
02 sensor for is to determine richer or
leaner than stoich. .90v and
.92v, to the ECU, are the same.
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 12:48:45
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Kumho ECSTA Supra 712
Alex,
I've been running these Kumho
tires for several years now and are very happy
with them. The price is great,
they handle great and they last. I run snow
tires 6 months out of the year
and have the Kumhos on for the other 6.
There are probably better tires
out there - for a lot more $$$$!
Get em, you won't be sorry.
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
> Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2003
17:16:08 -0500
> From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
> Subject: Team3S:
Tire choices
>
> Okay, so I really, really need new tires. I need
something cheap but
> something that can hold its own on the highway. I
went to a discount
> tire and they quoted me a total of 660 to get 4 Kumho
ECSTA Supra 712,
> which he later brought down to 560 installed. That
works out to ~140/
> tire + tax.
>
> Two questions - is that
a good price and is that a good tire.
>
> Tirerack quotes 96/each
for those, but they need to be installed
> still...
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 15:38:23
-0500 (EST)
From: Philip V Glazatov <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Kumho ECSTA Supra 712
Yes, those are great tires. I tracked them
and they were okay. Noisy but
fun. ABSOLUTELY plan to have a set of winter
tires if you run these in the
summer. These Kumhos can stand in dry and rain
but they get hard when cold
and scary slippery on snow and ice. A BFG KDWS
would be great all-season
tires.
Philip
On Fri, 28 Mar
2003, Desert Fox wrote:
> Alex,
>
> I've been running
these Kumho tires for several years now and are very happy
> with them.
The price is great, they handle great and they last. I run snow
> tires 6
months out of the year and have the Kumhos on for the other 6.
>
>
There are probably better tires out there - for a lot more $$$$!
>
>
Get em, you won't be sorry.
>
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95
black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> formerly
reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 21:48:02
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Coil Question
> For all you ignition coil gurus, is there
any danger in upgrading the
> stock ignition coils to the Accel, MSD, the
DynamicRacing kit, etc. in a
> car with stock injectors, ECU, fuel pump,
and turbos?
The coils have not much to do with the other stuff if any.
Just do it.
> I just got finished reading the debate on whether
using these more
> powerful coils results in a lean condition and am left
hopelessly
> confused. Some say don't do it unless you can richen
the mixture.
> Others say stronger coils have no effect. What do you
think?
The answer is simple : you have an ECU that takes care of some
parameters.
On a stock car you may not find much if any gain from stronger
coils. Some
say they have but this was the mind-controlled butt-dyno. But it
is a fact
that the coisl used i nour cars are somewhat weak. Also the
stock
transistors are limited so the gain to found depends on the combination
of
the ignition mods. The Accell coils as an example can be more saturated
what
results in a longer discharge signal to the spark plugs. The logic then
is
that this helps to increase the burn of the mixture. This may indeed cause
a
leaner burn i.e. more energy and therefore more power. But the ECU is
then
taking care of this and adapts to the changed readouts by changing
the
offset paramters to the ignition and fuel map. This is why you should
see
more power as the ignition can be advanced due to the longer and
more
powerful discharge signal. Unfortunately, we do not have a
back-to-back
prove of the theories from dynos. But there is a strong believe
that the
better coils help to burn the fuel better in the
chamber.
Roger G.
93'&96'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 23:18:59
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire choices
>> Discount Tire Co. is cheaper, across
the board in most instances, and
>> when we're not, we still beat the
other price no matter what it takes...
Sorry, Cody, but that simply is
NOT TRUE in my experience. Don't get me wrong. My wife and I have used Discount
Tire here in Colorado exclusively for 3 of our cars in the last 10 years and
once for my Stealth (when I put Nittos on the stock wheels). However, when I
wanted to install SSR GT1 wheels and Pirelli P Zero Rosso tires on my Stealth,
Discount Tire could not even come close (we're talking hundreds here) to what
Tire Rack wanted for this setup - delivered to my door and ready to install.
In my experience, Discount Tire is a very good place to do business. But
in no way is it the epitome of tire and wheel shops. I take my business to the
place that offers the best price, quality, and service for the particular
product I want or need. In the case of wheels and tires, sometimes it's Discount
Tire, sometimes it's Tire Rack. It never is Goodyear, Firestone, or Sears.
:)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
To: "'Team 3S
List Submissions'" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 27, 2003 5:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire choices
I
already responded to this, but I will elaborate....
Discount Tire
includes a whole crapload of stuff TireRack can't think
about
including... Rotations, Flat Repairs, Warranties, Balancing
(lifetime),
Valve stems, etc... Not to mention you don't pay
shipping...
For
Instance:
245/45-17
Tire Rack sells the BFG T/A KDW for
$169/tire
Discount Tire Direct sells the same (but oddly it's not listed on
the
website)
Discount Tire Co. Sells the same for $188/tire, installed,
total
Tire racks price does not include shipping ($8-$12 per
tire),
installation ($7-$15 per tire), valve stems ($2 each),
lifetime
balancing ($10/tire), nor any other free services DTC offers.
Soooo...
$169 plus $10 shipping, plus $8 installation, plus $10 balancing,
plus
$2 valve stem = $199 / tire once we're done installing them, and
then
there is no warranty on the tire other than manufacturers
pro-rated
defect. DTC has pro-rated road hazard with every
tire...
Discount Tire Co. is cheaper, across the board in most instances,
and
when we're not, we still beat the other price no matter what it
takes...
- -Cody
Does discount match tirerack
prices?
Thanks,
Alex.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 23:24:36
-0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wiring for TPS
Michael,
Did you or the mechanic do any
of the things I suggested on my 3/24 reply to your other thread?
??????
Has anyone measured the TPS/IPS signal at the ECU connector?
?????? Has
anyone carefully inspected the harness (as much as you can) connected to the
TPS/IPS?
That piece of the harness is part of the large engine harness.
You will have to rebuild any part of it that you find is damaged. Wires do not
magically go bad. In the case here, they must be damaged by an impact, a slice,
a crush, stress, fatique (like being bent too many times), etc; you get the
idea.
Check continuity between the ECU connector and the connector at
the TPS/IPS.
Study the diagrams in the Service Manuals to understand the
wiring circuit for the TPS/IPS.
??????? Are you absolutely sure the
problem is not your rebuilt ECU?
Just some ideas.
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Michael Tanenbaum" <
gtg509d@mail.gatech.edu>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, March 27, 2003 1:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: wiring for TPS
Hi
everyone,
Thank you for all the suggestions. I spoke with the
mechanic (who seems to
have given up) - there is a check engine light
pointing to the TPS. Switched
out the TPS, but still didn't fix
it. Mechanic said he wasn't getting good
readings at the TPS (I think
with a voltmeter). He says the harness is bad. I
have three
questions:
1) How do I check the wiring to pinpoint the bad stretch?
2)
Does anyone have an extra harness (it's a pig tail with four horizontal
plugs)? I have tried some junkyards, but to no avail.
3) How hard would
it be to run new wire?
Thank you again,
Michael
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 17:25:19
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire choices
Geez... Makes we wonder how other DT's
survive... We price match
anything, even if we are losing money in some
instances... The other
day I put a set of Volks on a customers car for
a total of $40 over our
cost... $3300 sale, and the wheels were almost
given away... Tires,
well, our price was already cheaper than Tire
Racks...
Maybe you just have bad luck... But if someone says they
got a better
price somewhere, I make mine lower to make them buy from me,
magazine
price, ghetto tire store price, tirerack, anywhere...
BTW -
I'm in San Antonio...
- -Cody
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Friday,
March 28, 2003 5:19 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire
choices
>> Discount Tire Co. is cheaper, across the board in most
instances, and
>> when we're not, we still beat the other price no
matter what it
takes...
Sorry, Cody, but that simply is NOT TRUE in my
experience. Don't get me
wrong. My wife and I have used Discount Tire here in
Colorado
exclusively for 3 of our cars in the last 10 years and once for
my
Stealth (when I put Nittos on the stock wheels). However, when I
wanted
to install SSR GT1 wheels and Pirelli P Zero Rosso tires on my
Stealth,
Discount Tire could not even come close (we're talking hundreds
here) to
what Tire Rack wanted for this setup - delivered to my door and
ready to
install.
In my experience, Discount Tire is a very good
place to do business. But
in no way is it the epitome of tire and wheel
shops. I take my business
to the place that offers the best price, quality,
and service for the
particular product I want or need. In the case of wheels
and tires,
sometimes it's Discount Tire, sometimes it's Tire Rack. It never
is
Goodyear, Firestone, or Sears. :)
Jeff Lucius,
http://www.stealth316.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 16:30:49
-0700
From: "Curtis McConnell" <
Curtis.McConnell@pulte.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire choices
I wonder if it is a CO thing. The intranet shows
a price of $161 for the
Kumho Supra 712's but Cody mentioned they were $157
for him.....
Curtis McConnell
Pulte Mortgage
(800) 426-8898
x-3591
Fax (303) 740-3591
- -----Original Message-----
From:
cody [mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Friday, March 28, 2003 4:25
PM
To: 'Jeff Lucius'; 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire
choices
Geez... Makes we wonder how other DT's survive... We
price match
anything, even if we are losing money in some instances...
The other
day I put a set of Volks on a customers car for a total of $40 over
our
cost... $3300 sale, and the wheels were almost given away...
Tires,
well, our price was already cheaper than Tire Racks...
Maybe
you just have bad luck... But if someone says they got a better
price
somewhere, I make mine lower to make them buy from me, magazine
price, ghetto
tire store price, tirerack, anywhere...
BTW - I'm in San
Antonio...
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 18:36:11
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tire choices
Well.... I bought the yokos, but the discount tire rep
wouldn't match
the tire rack price. I still got a good deal (I think) - 587
out the
door. Had I bought those tires off tire rack and had discount
install
them, I would have paid a total of 540. I didn't do that because
I
wanted the warranty - so I'd say I still got a good deal.
Funny
thing is, they had to get them from tire rack themselves, because
their
suppliers were backordered for those...
Alex.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2003 22:33:15
-0500
From: "Mike Childers" <
CheleCity@bigfoot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mirror Motor Problem
I have a1993 3000GT. I am having a
problem with my side view mirrors. They
just stopped working. I
have checked the fuses. Can anyone help? It
can't be the
switches because both sides stopped working at the same time.
Do they share a
common motor that could have failed perhaps?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 00:00:51
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
alex@kolosy.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT
Radar detector FS
Beltronics 936. Please respond off-list if
interested.
Thanks,
Alex
'95 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 00:57:55
-0500
From: Steve Lasher <
s_lasher@bellsouth.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake Caliper Storage
Quick dumb question:
What's the best way
to store a brake caliper? Should I drain the fluid,
or will keeping it
full prevent rust/freezing? Should I cap the brake
line holes (what
with)? Anything else? TiA
- -Steve
Oh yeah, anyone seen
the remote controlled car? (warning 10 Meg)
www.jdfab.com/dp2/RCCar_video.wmv***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 00:51:49
-0600 (CST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Caliper Storage
Drain it, insert the banjo
bolt..*should seal in enough* place in sealed
plastic bag (like a
freezer bag)
On Sat, 29 Mar 2003, Steve Lasher wrote:
> Quick
dumb question:
> What's the best way to store a brake caliper?
Should I drain the fluid,
> or will keeping it full prevent
rust/freezing? Should I cap the brake
> line holes (what
with)? Anything else? TiA
> -Steve
>
> Oh yeah,
anyone seen the remote controlled car? (warning 10 Meg)
>
www.jdfab.com/dp2/RCCar_video.wmv***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2003 06:35:13
-0600
From: Slayton Shaw <
scshaw2@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 3KGT ad material
Have uploaded several JPEGs (not TIFFs as
originally planned) to the
ftp.speedtoys.com server.
Jeff has
designated the following home page URLs:
http://www.speedtoys.com/~rocky46OR
http://www.team3s.com/~rocky46which
he has made available for access by list members.
There are currently
three folders:
1997
1998
1999
which each contain several black
and white JPEG files and which each
have a sub-folder named color which
contain two 4-color (CMYK) JPEG
files.
The black and white Street
Seeking Missile JPEG ad is in the 1997 fold
and is named 3000GT.jpg
I
will continue to upload more JPEGs for 1994, 1995 and 1996, although
these
years do not contain a color sub-folder since no color artwork
was produced
by Mitsubishi for the agency.
Please, if you have problems accessing
these files, let Jeff know about
it, not me since I cannot administer the
storage location.
Slayton Shaw
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V2
#116
***************************************
