Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Wednesday, January 8 2003 Volume
02 : Number 047
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 14:43:57 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
How did you determine this?
..and what have you checked so far?
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Bretton
[mailto:dbretton@volcanomail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 11:34
AM
Hello all,
Woke up this morning to find that my front wheel drive Stealth only
has power to one wheel! Right one is working, but no power to the
left wheel. This is the case regardless of what gear (even reverse). Car
is automatic.
Any ideas what the problem may be? What should I look for?
Thanks.
Regards,
Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 15:07:58 -0500
From:
songsay@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
viscous
has anyone ever burnt out a viscous coupler and what were the
symptoms?
also question 2, has anyone with first gen cars replaced their factory fogs
with aftermarket, if you have I would like suggestions for some that
actually fit.
songsay in
Alaska
92
vr4
-14, cold very cold,
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 20:37:05 +0000
From:
mjannusch@attbi.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
> Woke up this morning to find that my front
> wheel
drive Stealth only has power to one
> wheel! Right one is working,
but no power
> to the left wheel. This is the case
>
regardless of what gear (even reverse).
> Car is automatic.
The front differential is "open" so if you have a low amount of friction on
one side - that side will spin and the other will not.
Jack the front of the car up and put it on jackstands. Start the car,
put it
in drive. One wheel should spin (both may* spin). With
gloves of some sort
on, stop the rotating wheel and the other one should
spin.
If you can drive at all, its probably working fine. If you snapped a
halfshaft the car usually won't drive at all since the diff will send most
of
the power to the snapped shaft.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 12:28:06 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
viscous
I've not personally burnt one out, but I've heard that these are
the
symptoms:
If your coupler burnt in the "locked" position, then your car will have
trouble turning. This is because the mechanism binds when the wheels are
forced to turn at a different speed while the differentials are
locked.
If your coupler burnt in the "floating" position, then your car will never
lock the AWD system, and therefore you will have poor traction over snow,
mud, heavy rain conditions etc.
These symptoms are based on how another AWD car (the Chrysler vanagon)
acts. I got this info while I did research on how the alignment shop
messed up my stealth by locked two wheels on the ground to "spin balance"
the tires. I'm not absolutely sure that these symptoms apply here, but I'd
be willing to bet that the behavior in our cars is similar. I'd suggest
doing more research on AWD systems and looking through Jeff L.'s
write-up.
Just to clarify my opinion and understanding, when we speak of "fried
viscous couplers" I think we're actually speaking of "fried silicon
fluid". When the coupler overheats, the fluid overheats and loses its
ability to lock and unlock the differentials.
Also, why do you think your viscous coupler is fried? What does your
car do?
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
- -------->
has anyone ever burnt out a viscous coupler and what were the
symptoms?
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 17:09:10 -0500
From:
songsay@cs.comSubject: Team3S:
viscous
well I am not sure if I burnt it or not. three days ago my car was riding
on a spare on the front pass side cause I got a snake bite on my regular
tire. so I got some tires and took it to the local shop here near my work
so that I could just drop it off and walk my butt to work in the freezing
ass cold, so it took them all day to get my car finished. I get it back and am
glad I can drive regular again, but noticed that when I go around corners
I get a rhythmic bump bump bump, or you could even say a very soft, pop,
pop, pop, sound. I suspect it could be cv joints, but not likely. hmmmm is
all I have to say. man, it is like going to the doc to get a physical exam,
what do you tell them once they are done, thank you! shoot.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 17:16:59 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: viscous
Why do you think it is not likely the CVs? If you get that rhythmic
bump sound going around corners while applying the gas, it is most likely
the CVs.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 14:43:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Wert <
mrstealth13@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: changing from a SOHC to a DOHC
I am going to put a DOHC engine in my base model
Stealth. I am
aware I need to change the ECU but do I
need to change the wiring harness
that comes from the
ECU and goes to the engine. There is also a
wiring
harness that comes out of the ECU and goes into the
fuse box, do I
need to change that too?
Thank you,
Andrew
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 16:45:03 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Just rolled over 104k miles. Right front wheel bearing was changed at
around
80k miles. All front end parts are firm and secure according to
each alignment
place.
I'm lost,
AI Nut
Willis, Charles E. wrote:
> Okay, here's a long shot or two.
How many miles on the car? Have you
> changed the front wheel
bearings? (first guess) How about the front
> struts? (second guess)
beyond that you're going to have to start
> wondering about the active
parts of the fronts suspension, like
> bushings and such.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 07 Jan 2003 16:46:16 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
Sorry, missed your 2nd question, but it was answered already 8-). All
struts
were replaced by me summer 2001.
AI Nut
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 19:08:59 -0600
From: "Mark&Brenda" <
mebmark@cablerocket.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lost power to one Wheel
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 11:34:14 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Bretton <
dbretton@volcanomail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
Hello all,
Woke up this morning to find that my front wheel drive Stealth only
has power to one wheel! Right one is working, but no power to the
left wheel. This is the case regardless of what gear (even reverse). Car
is automatic.
Any ideas what the problem may be? What should I look for?
Thanks.
Regards,
Dennis
If it makes alot of clanking noise I'd check the CV joints, as a matter of
fact I'd check them first anyhow... Mark 92 NA like new!
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 17:54:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Bretton <
dbretton@volcanomail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
> How did you determine this?
> ..and what have you checked so
far?
Actually, this was just my first guess.
I was trying to back my car out of the driveway, and really wasn't moving
much. The car wouldn't budge unless I got the RPM's up to about
3000-4000. My right tire was spinning like crazy, but my left wasn't
budging. At first I thought it was just the snow. However, I moved
my car out onto the street, and I could cause my right wheel to hop like
mad while my left tire barely moved. Again, I couldn't get the car
moving unless I got the RPM's up to 3k-4k RPMs.
Any ideas?
- -Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 17:57:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Bretton <
dbretton@volcanomail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
>The front differential is "open" so if you have a low amount of
>friction on one side - that side will spin and the other will
not.
>
>If you can drive at all, its probably working fine. If
you snapped a
>halfshaft the car usually won't drive at all since the diff
will send most of
>the power to the snapped shaft.
What would happen if my differential went to pot? What kind of
behavior could I expect?
Thanks again.
Regards,
Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 19:57:54 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
This is normal, and the reason people sometimes refer to front
wheel
drive cars as one-wheel-drive.... Most, including ours, have an
open
differential... Whereas if one wheel is stuck, the other wheel
will
spin, or if one is easier to spin than the other, almost all the
power
goes to that one wheel...
There is a fix for this, but it costs about $900 from Quaife called
a
limited slip differential. It keeps the tires spinning at roughly
the
same speed...
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dennis Bretton
Sent: Tuesday,
January 07, 2003 7:54 PM
> How did you determine this?
> ..and what have you checked so
far?
Actually, this was just my first guess.
I was trying to back my car out of the driveway, and really
wasn't
moving much. The car wouldn't budge unless I got the RPM's up to
about
3000-4000. My right tire was spinning like crazy, but my left
wasn't
budging. At first I thought it was just the snow. However,
I moved my
car out onto the street, and I could cause my right wheel to hop
like
mad while my left tire barely moved. Again, I couldn't get the
car
moving unless I got the RPM's up to 3k-4k RPMs.
Any ideas?
- -Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 21:23:40 -0800
From: "Michael, Sharon &
Dashiell Rhoden" <
rhoden@easystreet.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Child seat
A front-facing seat works fine. Make sure it's narrow at the bottom
so it
fits snugly in the bucket seat (don't use it if it doesn't stay in
place!).
Use some towels and/or those rubbery, non-skid pads (the ones folks
use on
shelves) to help keep the seat from sliding around (and protect your
leather
seats).
There's a mount for a baby seat strap anchor in each of the wells at
the
back of the trunk. The dealer should provide anchor hardware free
of
charge. Just bolt the hardware in, run the safety strap over the top
of the
back seat to the anchor, thread the strap through the slit in the
trunk
carpet (I kid you not) and connect the seat safety strap to the
anchor. In
my opinion, the rear seat belt isn't very good at holding a
baby seat fast
in the bucket (I'd be interested in hearing if others have
found a
solution), so NEVER use a baby seat without the safety strap
properly
anchored.
My toddler loves to ride in daddy's car. The view isn't as good as in
mom's
Subaru, but he enjoys the sound of the engine, the feel of
acceleration, and
watching me push buttons, switch levers and turn the
wheel. Only trouble is
that he consistently tries to get to the
controls as soon as I unhook him
from his seat!
Michael & Dashiell (back seat driver)
92VR4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andrius Masiulis
Sent: Monday,
January 06, 2003 7:50 AM
Hi
Does child seat really fit into the back seat of 3000GT ?
Please serious
answers only !
andrius
PS sorry about replay to Lancer message. I haven't
noticed.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 21:25:20 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
The need for 3000 rpm may indicate low or bad fluid.
The one wheel hop
may be due to overheating the trans or tire while
spinning.
It could also
be due to large difference in tire psi or wear. I assume
you may have the
same type tire and wear since you did not mention.
I don't recall auto trans wear showing up more in cold weather.
Usually
the wear does show up as higher stall speeds and slipping action. Had
a
47 Desoto I had to help up hills in its last years, no kidding!
No, I didn't buy it new, got it and a guitar in the back for $50 at
a
junk yard. Circa 1969.
Kurt
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 19:24:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Bretton <
dbretton@volcanomail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
>The need for 3000 rpm may indicate low or bad fluid.
>The one
wheel hop may be due to overheating the trans or tire while
>spinning.
This occurred right from a cold start. The car had been in the yard
for about 12 straight hours, undisturbed, before this.
If the tranny
fluid is low/bad, what other signs would I expect to see?
Hard
shifting? Slipping?
>It could also be due to large difference in tire psi or wear. I
assume
>you may have the same type tire and wear since you did not
mention.
The tires are the same type, good condition, ~same pressure.
It looks like I have an *interesting* problem here!
- -Dennis
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 7 Jan 2003 22:03:57 -0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@satx.rr.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
It's not interesting... You all are missing one key feature - it's
on
ice... It is prolly spinning at lower rpm, but the one wheel
drive
motion is only apparent at higher rpm...
- -Cody
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 00:27:30 -0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Team 3S: OT Viper crashes at PIR training seminar.
My old boss Dave, who races a F-500 and a 944 Porsche - and also
instructs
for ASRA, was riding with this guy in a 2000 Viper. The guy
downshifts
wrong and eats a wall. The report that Dave fills out gives
all the details
for those who want to know the full details on what NOT to
do.
NOTE: There is a link for the 1.8mb video on the top of the
page.
- -Erik
'91 Stealth
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 01:38:59 -0800
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <
riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
viscous
I don't have much first-hand experience with CVs... but my car was
making
all sorts of funny noises until I did two things:
1. Brake Job
2. Cut off that Active Exhaust cable since it was hanging
after I put the
ATR singleshot catback on
That's just a thought...
In my situation, it was a loose clip or something in the brake system.
The
active exhaust mechanism was also intermittently hitting the wheel.
Regarding your CV joints...
What I do know about CV joints is that they're supposed to last very
long
(well over 100,000 miles) if installed correctly. Check your CV boots
for
leakage. If you see heavy leakage then it's probably too late to remedy
the
problem. If there is a crack but none or only minimal leakage, then it
is
possible that you can do the "band-aid" CV joint fix... which is:
Find some kind of split-snap CV boot. Grease up the joint as well as you
can
and snap the fitting together. I wouldn't recommend this for the long
run.
If you remember the engine rebuild discussion from before, then I'd say
the
split boot method is similar to swapping your main/rod bearings by
just
dropping the oil pan. There could be exceptions and maybe there's people
who
do the split boot method carefully enough to get many miles out of
it.
One bridge at a time though. Why don't you go and check your CV boots,
and
get back to us?
Your noise could be a shot differential too.
Riyan
93 stealth rt tt
------------------------------
Hi
I just joined to Team3s.
Since English is not my language, I might
misunderstand Team3s list rules.
If I do wrong thing here, just correct
me.
Anyway, my GTO is 1996's DOHC NA engine.
I got a Britz's vacuum gauge
but I don't know how to install it.
Someone told me that cut T in vacuum
hose.
Where is the vacuum hose?
If someone knows it,please help me
out.
I hope I can see its picture but it's impossible,right?
Thank you
Yoshihiro Honjo
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 8 Jan 2003 08:26:23 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph" <
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help - Lost power to one Wheel
Check the fluid for discoloration or a burnt smell. But based upon
what
I've read so far, I don't think you have a problem. I think the
tranny
is behaving normally. The "secondary" drive in the tranny will
not
engage unless the "primary" drive wheel gets stuck. So if the one
wheel
is spinning like mad, the tranny "thinks" the car is moving right
a
long, and so the secondary wheel does not "drive." It's only when
there
is resistance to the primary drive wheel that the "secondary"
wheel
begins to drive. Our auto trannies don't "transfer power from
the
wheels that slip to the wheels that grip."
- -----Original Message-----
From: cody
[mailto:overclck@satx.rr.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 11:04 PM
It's not interesting... You all are missing one key feature - it's
on
ice... It is prolly spinning at lower rpm, but the one wheel
drive
motion is only apparent at higher rpm...
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 14:12:08 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Installing vacuum gauge
Most owners tap into the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) hose. This hose has
an
arrow pointing to it in the picture in my web page below.
Ignore the "triple tap"; you don't have it on your engine.
Cut the FPR hose in half and insert a "T" fitting. Attach your vacuum gauge
hose to the T fitting. If you need to run the hose or wires into the cabin,
my
web page below shows the holes in the "firewall".
------------------------------
I would be suspicious about the struts at this point. It's really
hard to diagnose a blown strut because the stock springs are so
strong. Three shops missed mine. Get under the car and look for any
evidence of oil on the strut bodies. There shouldn't be any.
Any other symptoms, like when you go over a speed hump or pothole?
Any vibration at about 70 mph?
Replaced both front wheel bearings on my '93 at under 100K, and had one
replaced under warranty on the '94 at about 70K. Always wondered
about why not replaced in pairs. Have another in the garage in the
plastic can.
Is this strictly a front end problem or are you seeing this on all four
wheels?
Chuck Willis
- -----Original Message-----
From: AINut
[mailto:ainut1@telocity.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 4:45 PM
Just rolled over 104k miles. Right front wheel bearing was changed at
around
80k miles. All front end parts are firm and secure according to
each alignment
place.
I'm lost,
AI Nut
------------------------------
>At first I thought it was just the snow. However, I moved my car
out onto
the street, and I could cause my right wheel to hop like mad while
my left
tire barely moved. Again, I couldn't get the car moving unless
I got the
RPM's up to 3k-4k RPMs.
Can you drive the car? Is the acceleration normal? Does it roll
normally?
Accelerate, put it in neutral and see how far it will roll.
If you are describing it correctly, it seems like one of your wheels
is
must harder to turn than the other. That could be either due to bad
wheel
bearing or seriously stuck brake caliper pistons. Lift your both
front
wheels, put your car in neutral and try to spin each wheel by
hand.
>What would happen if my differential went to pot? What kind of
behavior
could I expect?
Nothing that you would notice, other than some screeching or grinding
noise
while you are turning or spinning one of the tires on ice. If
the
differential is stuck your car should still drive normally if you
go
straight. What you are describing is not a differential.
Philip
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 08 Jan 2003 11:27:12 -0600
From: AINut <
ainut1@telocity.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires wearing on the inside, and wheels (long)
All four tires. The struts react correctly when rapidly compressed at
each
corner. No oil on any of the struts, either. No, no
symptoms over road
hazards, natural or man-made. No vibrations to
speak of at any speed. The
problem shows up on all 4 wheels, but I do
rotate about every 5,000 miles.
AI Nut
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#47
**************************************