Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Thursday, August 1 2002   Volume 01 : Number 913




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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 14:51:23 -0400
From: Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com
Subject: Team3S: Setting Igntion Timing Question

I'll try not to be too long-winded, but I have a question about setting the
ignition timing on '91 - '92 TT's.  According to the manual, you do this
with the following steps:

1) Warm engine to normal operating temp and turn off.
2) Ground the brown timing connector to achieve base timing.
3) Start engine and check base timing with timing light.
4) Rotate Crank Angle Sensor to change base timing
5) Turn off engine and disconnect the ground to the timing connector.
6) Re-start engine and check real timing with timing light.

In the past, I've screwed this up because I did step #2 with the engine
running and step #4 with the engine off, and skipped step #5. I ended
upwith timing extremely retarded, but didn't notice it until the next day
when I started the car cold. So apparently the order in which these steps
are done is important.

>From what I understand, base timing that's too advanced will result in
higher knock and low EGTs. Timing that's too retarded will result in low
knock and high EGT's. The spec for base timing is 5 degrees +/- 2, so the
specified range is from 3 degrees to 7 degrees. This is a fairly large
range considering that a few degrees can make a big difference. So to
really tune the car in, you must make the timing adjustment many times and
datalog the car between each adjustment until you
find the "sweet spot". And this can be very tiring and time-consuming if
you have to go through all 6 steps each time.

So finally, here's my question. Is it OK to skip Steps #2, #5, and #6? Or
does the timing adjustment HAVE to be made while the engine is running on
base timing? While doing Test & Tune runs at the track, it would be a whole
lot simpler if you didn't have to do all that stuff, and instead just
rotate the Crank Angle Sensor with the engine running between runs until
the "sweet spot" is found.

Jeff W.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 14:57:35 -0400
From: "Ben M. Jones" <benjones@protechgp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Replacing Valve Lash Adjusters

Does anyone know if you can replace the lash adjusters on a 3000GT with
new adjusters without adjusting them first? Trying to save myself a ton
o' $$ and do it myself. I am also looking for the lash removal tool.

Thanks


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 15:00:02 -0400
From: "Alan Sheffield" <a92rttt@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: s-afc v1 vs s-afc v2

For my car (92 RT/TT, 13g turbos,waburo 255lp pump,pocketlogger and getting
450's ).

I can get a 1st gen s-afc for 100-150(used) the 2nd gen's are 250(used) or
300+ (new).

Given my car why would I want / need to spend the extra on the 2nd gen s-afc
?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:55:13 -0400
From: "chris weil" <cweil@si.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tires and ABS

Thanks for the help guys!
 I was able to get a shop manual from Rockville and I checked out the tires
on tirerack, but heres my question...... Has anyone ever used SumitomoHTR+
WR speed rated tires before? According to tirerack they seem to match up
well against the Michellin series and they're also about $100 cheaper! I'd
appreciate any advice.

As for my ABS, the Mitsu dealer told me my ABS modulator and ABS computer
were "fried" and they had to be replaced. He mentioned that it looked as
though it was exposed to  too much water. I don't understand because I
haven't used my car as a U-Boat ever! Is it possible to replace the ABS
modulator with a used one and just purchase a brand new ABS computer?
Let me know what you think.

Chris
97-VR4



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 13:45:19 -0700
From: "Chris Winkley" <Chris_Winkley@adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that deliver more pony's

David...

You could do a search on this in the archives and come up with lots of different advice. I believe the most common route has been to add some form of boost controller (manual or electronic), then replace the intake and exhaust, followed by the turbos, injectors, and fuel pump. The last three are where the bigger $$$ come into play. However, Roger Gerl, one of the other Team3S Admins, has done a fair amount of scientific measurement (real dyno measurements versus our butt dynos) and has shown that the most important factor is getting more fuel to the engine to prevent detonation damage. Adding a K&N filter or catback exhaust adds virtually no hp or torque. Soooo, this would mean injectors should be first, probably followed by a boost controller so you can take advantage of that extra fuel.

Again, try a search in the archives, there have been several lists developed over the last five years.

BTW...if you really meant that the car you bought has 183,000 miles on it, I'm impressed. I wouldn't have guessed they would make it that far without some serious investments (which it may have had). I've heard of several that have given up the ghost just past 100K miles, but that's largely because no one (that I know) buys a 300+ hp car and then drives it like a little old lady. It should be on it's fourth timing belt by now!!!

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mosher, David [mailto:dmosher@ea.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 3:10 PM
To: team3S@team3s.com
Subject: Team3S: Any advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that
deliver more pony's

Hey Guys,

I am a Nebee to the list but I must say the info read over the past few days has been very useful; Thanks.

I have a 92 pearl white VR4 183k  that I am restoring. I have just finish the paint work and I was looking for some advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that deliver more pony's?  My long term goal is to keep the car primarily stock or at least limit my mods so that I can easily return to stock parts.

Thank you for your time.

David.

PS.  I live in SFO CA  and I am in search of a reputable parts/accessories shop.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 16:36:13 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: ABS

Chris:
>From what I've been hearing, there are about a half-dozen different things you should check before  buying a new ABS module. The relay (whack it with a blunt instrument), the brake hose from the back of the intake manifold (make sure it is not leaking and that the check valve is working), the three circuit breakers (take them out -- one bolts in -- and put them back in, that might cure everything) and check all the ABS wiring at each wheel for broken wires. All that's free, and you should be able to do it all yourself. I am going to try that this weekend to see if I can get my ABS back working again.
Rich/slow old poop/94 VR4
ABS pump runs and runs and runs

>As for my ABS, the Mitsu dealer told me my ABS modulator and ABS computer
>were "fried" and they had to be replaced. He mentioned that it looked as
>though it was exposed to  too much water. I don't understand because I
>haven't used my car as a U-Boat ever! Is it possible to replace the ABS
>modulator with a used one and just purchase a brand new ABS computer?
>Let me know what you think.
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:18:09 +0000
From: mjannusch@attbi.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Setting Igntion Timing Question

> 1) Warm engine to normal operating temp and turn off.
> 2) Ground the brown timing connector to achieve base
>    timing.
> 3) Start engine and check base timing with timing
>    light.
> 4) Rotate Crank Angle Sensor to change base timing
> 5) Turn off engine and disconnect the ground to the
>    timing connector.
> 6) Re-start engine and check real timing with timing
>    light.
 
> So finally, here's my question. Is it OK to skip
> Steps #2, #5, and #6? Or does the timing adjustment
> HAVE to be made while the engine is running on
> base timing?

You'll never know what the timing is actually set to
unless you follow all the steps in sequence.  If you
adjust it without doing step 2 - the ECU will
dynamically change the timing and you'll see the timing
jump all over the place between 1-15 degrees of
advance.  If you do step 2 then you'll need to do step
5 ;-).  Step 6 isn't really necessary if the base timing
is set correctly - its mostly to verify that the ECU is
doing its normal thing - varying the timing to stabilize
idle.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 17:17:00 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires and ABS

I have heard that the Sumitomo tires squeal more than other tires under hard
cornering. Please someone correct me if I have misinformation.

I have Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 from Tire Rack in 245/40ZR18 on the stock rims.
I can't speak highly enough about this tire for summer driving which I got
for around $125/ea. I don't think the Sumitomos are that cheap.

Z rated tires really don't do what they are supposed to when the temperature
drops below about 54 degrees F, again if I have correct information. That's
why you have a set of full on snow tires mounted up and ready to go when the
weather changes suddenly here up north. I have the Pirelli Snow Sport 210 on
Mille Miglia Spider 17" rims. I  went with a 235/45ZR17 on these for a bit
narrower tire (better in the snow) and a higher profile. Works great. The
other advantage is that I only end up having to replace tires approximately
every 4-5 years since each set is on the car for about 6 months out of the
year.

The only thing I know about my ABS is that it works. Too well on ice/snow,
especially with the summer tires. Feels like something is broken when the
brake pedal is doing nothing but making this ratcheting sound and pushing up
against your foot!

Is there any ill effect to not fixing your ABS? I know some folks have
disabled theirs.

You have a 97 - where are the 2 additional speakers on the 97 that I don't
have on my 95? I hear the dash openings are larger on a 97, up to like 3.25"
or something, two 6.75" coax cone speakers, one in each door, two 6x9 coax
cone two ways in the rear on the strut columns - where are the other mystery
two located?


- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

on 7/31/02 2:55 PM, chris weil at cweil@si.rr.com scribbled:

> Thanks for the help guys!
> I was able to get a shop manual from Rockville and I checked out the tires
> on tirerack, but heres my question...... Has anyone ever used SumitomoHTR+
> WR speed rated tires before? According to tirerack they seem to match up
> well against the Michellin series and they're also about $100 cheaper! I'd
> appreciate any advice.
>
> As for my ABS, the Mitsu dealer told me my ABS modulator and ABS computer
> were "fried" and they had to be replaced. He mentioned that it looked as
> though it was exposed to  too much water. I don't understand because I
> haven't used my car as a U-Boat ever! Is it possible to replace the ABS
> modulator with a used one and just purchase a brand new ABS computer?
> Let me know what you think.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 17:34:31 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: s-afc v1 vs s-afc v2

> For my car (92 RT/TT, 13g turbos,waburo 255lp pump,pocketlogger and
getting
> 450's ).
>
> I can get a 1st gen s-afc for 100-150(used) the 2nd gen's are 250(used) or
> 300+ (new).
>
> Given my car why would I want / need to spend the extra on the 2nd gen
s-afc
> ?

The 1st gen SAFC has 5 nobs on it for 5 rpm ranges.  No display or any type
of feedback.  The 2nd gen SAFC has a display and can be more finely tuned.
When you change it by 1% on the 2nd gen one, you know it is 1%.  You are not
always sure on one with nobs.  The first gen SAFC does not have a high
throttle and low throttle setting.  You set the dials and that is it.

Also the 2nd gen SAFC has a lot of features.  Look at
http://www.apexi-usa.com/ .

The 2nd gen is well worth the extra money IMO.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:07:50 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tires and ABS

Chris,

"Exposed to too much water?"  Does he mean water inside the brake fluid
or water outside of the ABS computer?  I didn't think it would matter
either way but it might be worth asking to clarify for us.

Also, you can do the mod that, I think, Jim Berry did which is disable
ABS completely.  You have to learn a little different driving (braking)
style but it saved $3,000 too.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: chris weil
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 16:55

As for my ABS, the Mitsu dealer told me my ABS modulator and ABS
computer were "fried" and they had to be replaced. He mentioned that it
looked as though it was exposed to  too much water. I don't understand
because I haven't used my car as a U-Boat ever! Is it possible to
replace the ABS modulator with a used one and just purchase a brand new
ABS computer? Let me know what you think.



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:57:37 -0400
From: "Mike Frey" <mike21b@ptd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires and ABS

> I have Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 from Tire Rack in 245/40ZR18 on the stock
rims.

I have the same setup. I miss my Michelin XGT's but at almost 1/3 the price
for Kumho, not that much! Besides, Michelin doesn't make the XGT any more.
They were quieter and smoother. Still, the Supra 712 is a very good tire.

> The only thing I know about my ABS is that it works. Too well on ice/snow,
> especially with the summer tires. Feels like something is broken when the
> brake pedal is doing nothing but making this ratcheting sound and pushing
up
> against your foot!
>
> Is there any ill effect to not fixing your ABS? I know some folks have
> disabled theirs.

My ABS is not working right now. I was unfortunate to get caught in a *very*
slippery snowstorm (coming off the golf course, no less!) in March, and sure
wished it worked then. I have plenty of experience at driving in snow, but
this was one of the few times the car got completely out of control. I
missed a minivan in front of me (in the same out-of-control situation that I
was) by inches, then watched, horrified, in slow motion, as the guardrail
approached. Came to a stop just inches from that, too. I, along with a dozen
or so other people - some in 4x4 SUVs - just waited it out till the snow
built up another inch or two before continuing down the mountain.

Not sure if functional ABS would have done much better,
but..............whew.


- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Desert Fox" <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
To: "chris weil" <cweil@si.rr.com>; <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires and ABS


> I have heard that the Sumitomo tires squeal more than other tires under
hard
> cornering. Please someone correct me if I have misinformation.
>
> I have Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 from Tire Rack in 245/40ZR18 on the stock
rims.
> I can't speak highly enough about this tire for summer driving which I got
> for around $125/ea. I don't think the Sumitomos are that cheap.
>
> Z rated tires really don't do what they are supposed to when the
temperature
> drops below about 54 degrees F, again if I have correct information.
That's
> why you have a set of full on snow tires mounted up and ready to go when
the
> weather changes suddenly here up north. I have the Pirelli Snow Sport 210
on
> Mille Miglia Spider 17" rims. I  went with a 235/45ZR17 on these for a bit
> narrower tire (better in the snow) and a higher profile. Works great. The
> other advantage is that I only end up having to replace tires
approximately
> every 4-5 years since each set is on the car for about 6 months out of the
> year.
>
> The only thing I know about my ABS is that it works. Too well on ice/snow,
> especially with the summer tires. Feels like something is broken when the
> brake pedal is doing nothing but making this ratcheting sound and pushing
up
> against your foot!
>
> Is there any ill effect to not fixing your ABS? I know some folks have
> disabled theirs.
>
> You have a 97 - where are the 2 additional speakers on the 97 that I don't
> have on my 95? I hear the dash openings are larger on a 97, up to like
3.25"
> or something, two 6.75" coax cone speakers, one in each door, two 6x9 coax
> cone two ways in the rear on the strut columns - where are the other
mystery
> two located?
>
>
> --
> Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
> formerly reasonable and prudent
>
> on 7/31/02 2:55 PM, chris weil at cweil@si.rr.com scribbled:
>
> > Thanks for the help guys!
> > I was able to get a shop manual from Rockville and I checked out the
tires
> > on tirerack, but heres my question...... Has anyone ever used
SumitomoHTR+
> > WR speed rated tires before? According to tirerack they seem to match up
> > well against the Michellin series and they're also about $100 cheaper!
I'd
> > appreciate any advice.
> >
> > As for my ABS, the Mitsu dealer told me my ABS modulator and ABS
computer
> > were "fried" and they had to be replaced. He mentioned that it looked as
> > though it was exposed to  too much water. I don't understand because I
> > haven't used my car as a U-Boat ever! Is it possible to replace the ABS
> > modulator with a used one and just purchase a brand new ABS computer?
> > Let me know what you think.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:31:38 -0500
From: "John Monnin" <John.Monnin@3Si.zzn.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake Rotor Off and Driver's class at Gingerman

Geoff Mohler posted a link to my 3si Thread about stuck brake rotor.

Elmo, gave me a great suggestion.  I bought 2 M12 x 2" long fine
thread bolts and put them in the caliper mounting holes.  tightening
them down a little at a time I was able to push the rotor off about
1/32.  Then I had to loosen the bolts, rotate 180 degrees and tighten
the bolts again.

The rotor fought me the whole way but after about 7 spins it popped
off.  I have some great pictures on this 3si thread:

http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?
s=d31c6607f78b890357ca27441c02521d&threadid=92864

I am also in the process of removing my dust shields and installing a
Rich Merrit style big-gulp air duct for my next road course event at
Gingerman at 3S National gathering.   I took a all day driving course
there a week ago and it was really hard on the R4 pads and stock
rotors.  I ran 3-20 minute sessions with no problems because I was
not worried about speed in the straights just the corners.

On my 4th session a Miata was getting close and looked like he wanted
to pass.  I looked at my instructor then punched it.  My straight
speeds on the 2 biggest straights went from 80 to 100mph w/o any
problems, until the my last full speed lap I noticed the brakes were
fading.   On my cool down lap I lost them completely.  I dropped my
instructor off and idled in the parking lot for 20 minutes w/o any
sign of them coming back, the fluid had boiled over.  They came back
after another 1/2 hours of sitting.

The best part of the dawy was when my instructor told me to ride with
him so I could see the line on a double apex turn that I was having
problems with.  I was excited because I had never rode in a 405HP Z06
Vette before.  My instructor said not to worry because he had 25
years of experience racing and we took off hard... I couldn't believe
his car was stock, it was just that much stronger than my VR-4
boosting @12 psi.  Then he passed almost every car in the expert
group, The ZR-1 vette went down first, a very modiifed integra
(driven by an instructor) was passed on the very next straight
followed by a NSX and a Very modified porche with monster tires and
huge intercooler wing.  EVERY single straight he passed 1 or 2 cars. 
He completely dominated every car on the track and was catching up to
a modfied Lotus Esprit V-8 and a special edition NSX (with
supercharger) being driven by school's owner when they pulled off the
track.   I just couldn't believe how my instructor outdrove
everyone.  The best part was on every curve I could feel the tires on
the very edge of braking loose like he was using 100% of the car's
capability.  When we pulled off the track my instructor asked me if
that helped? 
My reply was: Who cares, that was awesome!

John Monnin
1991 VR-4
4-bolt main conversion
Hope to see you at 3s National Gathering

3SI STUFF!  http://www.3si.org/pages/catalog.html
____________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE Web and POP E-mail Service in 14 languages at http://www.zzn.com.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:42:29 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires and ABS

I got them right after I got the car, probably January of 2001. I have seen
that Tire Rack has also had these rims in 18" variety.

I really like these rims. They aren't as delicate looking as some of the
other options but they do seem pretty beefy.

Plus I'm not a huge fan of chrome...

I'll poke around a bit and see if I can't find somewhere for you to pick one
up. You are looking for 17", right?

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent




on 7/31/02 8:10 PM, merritt@cedar-rapids.net at merritt@cedar-rapids.net
scribbled:

>> I have the Pirelli Snow Sport 210 on
>> Mille Miglia Spider 17" rims.
>
>
> I have a set of those Milli Miglias, too. Bought mine three years ago, from
> Tire Rack. They've been out of stock ever since. Did you buy yours recently?
> If so, where? I'd like to buy a spare wheel, just in case I bend one.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:50:47 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires and ABS

on 7/31/02 7:57 PM, Mike Frey at mike21b@ptd.net scribbled:
>
> My ABS is not working right now. I was unfortunate to get caught in a *very*
> slippery snowstorm (coming off the golf course, no less!) in March, and sure
> wished it worked then. I have plenty of experience at driving in snow, but
> this was one of the few times the car got completely out of control. I
> missed a minivan in front of me (in the same out-of-control situation that I
> was) by inches, then watched, horrified, in slow motion, as the guardrail
> approached. Came to a stop just inches from that, too. I, along with a dozen
> or so other people - some in 4x4 SUVs - just waited it out till the snow
> built up another inch or two before continuing down the mountain.
>
> Not sure if functional ABS would have done much better,
> but..............whew.

After extensive driving in snow, and I do mean snow like several FEET on the
road, I think that the ABS is not a very good thing on slick surfaces. It
just doesn't ever bite. Rule number one of snow driving is going slow so
that you never have to hit the brakes hard. The difference between the snow
tires and the summer tires is night and day. I can recall the ABS kicking in
only 2 times with my snow tires installed. However, I can recall over a half
a dozen "whew" experiences with the ABS activating and my Kumhos sliding
3,800 pounds of vehicle down the road with zero control.

My other vehicle is a 98 F150 4x4. Although it gets around well in the
winter, the VR-4 with snow tires is amazing, if driven by an experienced
winter (snow and ice) driver.

I haven't gone so far as to disable my ABS but I don't think I'd spend $3000
to fix it if it went south, where it probably belongs...

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:44:02 -0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires and ABS

> However, I can recall over a half a dozen "whew"
> experiences with the ABS activating and my Kumhos
> sliding 3,800 pounds of vehicle down the road with
> zero control.

That's because performance tires suck on snow.  The wider the tire and
heavier the car the worse they get.  The ABS can't create braking traction,
just more effectively use whatever the tires are capable of than the
"average" driver.

Like you said, snow tires on the turbo cars kick major butt in the snow.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4




***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 20:57:08 -0700
From: "dakken" <dougusmagnus@attbi.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: tires and ABS!

> 2) I recently noticed that my ABS light stays lit constantly. I brought it
> to the Mitsu dealer and was told that I need the ABS brain and the ABS
unit
> itself, but the cost will be 3k(parts and labor)!!!   Is it possible for a
> person with below average-average mechanical skills to do the job? Does it
> need to be computerized?  And where might I be able to get a shop
manual?(I
> called the number on the site listed and they said they don't offer the
3000
> manual)
> If I can't do it, does anyone know of a reputable mechanic/garage in the
> NYC/NJ area where I can get it done? And where can I get the parts at a
> decent price?

I would recommend buying the parts from M&S and then paying someone to
install the system.  If my memory serves me right, M&S had the complete ABS
assembly for under $500.  You will have to give them a call for the exact
price.  I think it was $200 but I don't want to give you a bad amount.  You
should be able to fix it for less than $1000 then.

Doug
92 Stealth RT TT


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:57:47 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Snow driving/was Tires and ABS

>Rule number one of snow driving is going slow so
>that you never have to hit the brakes hard.

Slow? Did you say DRIVE SLOW? Do you realize what list you are on?

>The difference between the snow
>tires and the summer tires is night and day. I can recall the ABS kicking in
>only 2 times with my snow tires installed. However, I can recall over a half
>a dozen "whew" experiences with the ABS activating and my Kumhos sliding
>3,800 pounds of vehicle down the road with zero control.

Yeah, there is a BIG difference with winter tires.
I loved to take our 1972 Datsun 510 rally car out with studded snow tires on all four wheels and pass slow moving traffic stuck in the plowed right lane. I'd be in the unplowed left lane, cruising along at 70+ in a foot of snow, all six driving lights on, spraying all the traffic  with slurp.
 
When it started snowing really good in Columbus, Ohio, my wife and I would take the 510 out on unplowed gravel roads in the middle of the night and practice running really fast in the snow. Worked, too. On the Twenty Stages Pro rally in Michigan in March (six inches of fresh snow over black ice), we started 25th, but restarted fourth on the road after the midnight meal halt. Alas, I suffered brain fade, and finished 10th. I discovered that if you run TOO FAST in the snow, you slide off the road and hit things like snowbanks and small trees. There is definitely a rhythm and a technique for going fast in the snow -- just like open tracking has its driving rhythm. When you lock in, ain't nothing like it. Sex, maybe. No, anybody can have sex. Not everybody can drive well.

What's really interesting, now that I think about it, is that the driving techniques are amazingly similar. With a rally car, we throw the car sideways before the turn, and scream through in a wild slide, foot to the floor. Hardly ever use the brakes. It's amazing how much traction there is when a car is sideways. It's like skiing.

In open tracking, we turn in way before the apex, nail the throttle, and carry very high speeds through the turn. And the more you do this, the less brake you use. Instead of sliding sideways like a rally car on gravel or snow, our cars stick like glue, but the dynamics all seem to be the same.

Maybe I actually learned something in the snow, and it's all coming back, 30 years later.

Man, those were the days! Er, nights. 

Rich/slow old poop
Nostalgia just isn't what it used to be.


 >


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 22:38:23 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Snow driving/was Tires and ABS

on 7/31/02 9:57 PM, merritt@cedar-rapids.net at merritt@cedar-rapids.net
scribbled:
> Slow? Did you say DRIVE SLOW? Do you realize what list you are on?

Yes I said slow. And I realize that this is the list of fast, hard driving
3KGT owners. But also owners who don't want to crumple their super car doing
stupid things on public roads. Also, if I want fast, I hop on my 98 Honda
VFR800Fi Interceptor and show the Z06 or any other cage (read car) what the
real meaning of speed is. Did you know that a superbike can go from 0 to
100mph and back to 0 in less distance than a Z06 takes to get to 100mph! Not
in the winter of course.

Anyway, I've driven all over in the snow. Aspen, Colorado where I used to
reside had plenty of snow. Here in Montana - well, you get the picture. My
snow tires are on from late October or November till April, at least! The
full on four wheel slide in the snow is a blast and it does help your
driving technique. Kinda like cross training. Watch superbike racing and you
will see all the best racers backing their bikes into corners at over
100mph, a technique perfected by flat track dirt racers. Niki Hayden (#69)
is a prime example as is Kenny Roberts and most of the other top AMA and
World Superbike racers.

>
> Yeah, there is a BIG difference with winter tires.
> I loved to take our 1972 Datsun 510 rally car out with studded snow tires on
> all four wheels and pass slow moving traffic stuck in the plowed right lane.
> I'd be in the unplowed left lane, cruising along at 70+ in a foot of snow, all
> six driving lights on, spraying all the traffic  with slurp.

Those old Datsuns made great rally vehicles! Old Toyota Corollas were fun to
slide around too.

We had 8" of snow in June this year that we woke up to one morning...
 
> When it started snowing really good in Columbus, Ohio, my wife and I would
> take the 510 out on unplowed gravel roads in the middle of the night and
> practice running really fast in the snow. Worked, too. On the Twenty Stages
> Pro rally in Michigan in March (six inches of fresh snow over black ice), we
> started 25th, but restarted fourth on the road after the midnight meal halt.
> Alas, I suffered brain fade, and finished 10th. I discovered that if you run
> TOO FAST in the snow, you slide off the road and hit things like snowbanks and
> small trees. There is definitely a rhythm and a technique for going fast in
> the snow -- just like open tracking has its driving rhythm. When you lock in,
> ain't nothing like it. Sex, maybe. No, anybody can have sex. Not everybody can
> drive well.

So you did that in your 510 but I bet you wouldn't want to do it in your
VR-4!

I think I've got the sex thing down but I could use some driving lessons.:-)
 
> What's really interesting, now that I think about it, is that the driving
> techniques are amazingly similar. With a rally car, we throw the car sideways
> before the turn, and scream through in a wild slide, foot to the floor. Hardly
> ever use the brakes. It's amazing how much traction there is when a car is
> sideways. It's like skiing.

I have been a skier and snowboarder since 1981. The old man, old school
"dude" who smokes the youngsters on either single or two planks.
Downshifting and throttle control is it. Brakes are basically useless in the
slick conditions.
 
> In open tracking, we turn in way before the apex, nail the throttle, and carry
> very high speeds through the turn. And the more you do this, the less brake
> you use. Instead of sliding sideways like a rally car on gravel or snow, our
> cars stick like glue, but the dynamics all seem to be the same.

THIS is what I need instruction on. I drive like an old poop...
 
> Maybe I actually learned something in the snow, and it's all coming back, 30
> years later.
>
> Man, those were the days! Er, nights.

After driving a motorcycle through a 4 point whitetail buck back in 1987, I
am SUPER cautious at night on either the bike or in cages. Days are for
driving, nights are for sex.


- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 21:40:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Anthony Tse <tse1631@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Buzzing Noise

Hi Everyone: I just bought a 92 VR4 on May and I got a
very strange buzzing noise once a while. It sounds
like I didn't take the key out when the key is in the
key hole. But I got this buzzing noise when the car is
runnung. It's sounds when I hit the gas pedal or the
car is in motion. Beep. ..  .. ....... e.g. running on
a little rough road. After a while it change to
non-stop even I stopped the car. I have to stop the
engine for a while and start again then the sound will
go away. The next time it happen again by chance.
About one of 3 times. But my car still runs even with
the buzzing noise. Also, the ECS indicator is flashing
"TOUR/SPORT" all the time. Sometimes when I start the
car the "TOUR" light is on, I can only switch it to
"SPORT", otherwise the "TOUR/SPORT" will flash.
However, it doesn't look like they are related because
that sound can happen in both situations.
     Thank you for reading this long story. I already
ask a local garage I used to fix my old Supra. But he
got no clue about the VR4.

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 Jul 2002 23:54:35 -0500
From: "merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Snow driving/was Tires and ABS

>The
>full on four wheel slide in the snow is a blast and it does help your
>driving technique. Kinda like cross training. Watch superbike racing and you
>will see all the best racers backing their bikes into corners at over
>100mph, a technique perfected by flat track dirt racers.

Whoa! Backwards? I gotta watch more motorcycle racing.

>I have been a skier and snowboarder since 1981. The old man, old school
>"dude" who smokes the youngsters on either single or two planks.
>
>> In open tracking, we turn in way before the apex, nail the throttle, and carry
>> very high speeds through the turn. And the more you do this, the less brake
>> you use. Instead of sliding sideways like a rally car on gravel or snow, our
>> cars stick like glue, but the dynamics all seem to be the same.
>
>THIS is what I need instruction on. I drive like an old poop...

OK, then, Mr. skier. You can look at it this way>:
In rallying, you "plant" the tires one way to throw the car sideways the other way, just like in skiing when you are making quick, sharp turns. You plant, unweight, and edge. Same deal.

In skiing, you "carve" a high speed turn by turning on your edges. On track it's almost the same. You turn in way up track and nail the gas. The power from the AWD plants the tires and  edges just like a ski, and you carve around. Not exactly the same, of course, because the tire edges are on the outside, but still a good analogy. I think skiing and high speed driving are very similar.
>
>After driving a motorcycle through a 4 point whitetail buck back in 1987, I
>am SUPER cautious at night on either the bike or in cages. Days are for
>driving, nights are for sex.

We got a deer on the 1973 Press On Regardless. No big deal. Just took out the left front fender, driver door, and left rear quarter panel. It was a Datsun, so we got parts at racer prices from Datsun Competition (fender, $50; door skin, $25), fixed it for $200, and spend the rest of the insurance money on a 240Z limited slip.

Rich/slow old poop
>
>
>

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 01:09:52 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Any advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that deliver more pony's

Chris-

    I'm the proud owner of a 93 stealth rt tt with 187,500 miles on it. I want
to warn you--do a compression and/or leakage test before you go trigger
happy. Don't throw money onto a sinking ship. Speaking of old lady, I know
that the stealth I have was driven by a very conservative pilot...  my aunt.
So I'm lucky. It also has two new turbos and a new tranny, clutch, and
transfer case (was that tranny of urs replaced?? you know how 3kgt/stealth
trannies are)

good luck,

Riyan M.
1993 stealth rt/tt
bone stock

my ride:
www.advantedgecomputing.com/stllow/stealth.htm



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 01:22:37 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start

ECU at 60k tune-up??  Sounds kinda fishy. Anyhow, check the fuel delivery
system too. This includes hoses, regulators, and solenoids in the circuit.
Get away from the worthless dealers if you can. The last time I dealed with
one, I paid $85 to have them tell me my car is old and rusty and not worth
fixing. They didn't even put it back together right! I did the work myself
and my baby runs great. One more thing. Try spraying some starting fluid in
there and see if it keeps it running. That'll tell you whether the spark
itself is stopping or the fuel is stopping/low pressure    y'know what i
mean??  Good luck with it.

Riyan



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 22:43:32 +1200
From: "Steve Cooper" <scooper@paradise.net.nz>
Subject: Re: Team3S: tires and ABS!

It only takes one faulty part to stop it working. If they're trying to sell
you two parts then I'd guess they dont know what is really wrong with it.

Steve

> > 2) I recently noticed that my ABS light stays lit constantly. I brought
it
> > to the Mitsu dealer and was told that I need the ABS brain and the ABS
> unit



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 09:26:48 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: mystery of the replacement antenna solved!

Dear Pals,

Turns out that when I disassembed the antenna motor to take out the broken
off piece of antenna mast rack, I reassembled it with the plastic roll that
serves as the take up for the rack put in backwards. (duh!) The plastic roll
has a lip on one edge, but not the other.  As soon as I reassembled it, it
took the whole mast in, as advertised.

Now I just need to figure out how to get the power antenna signal out of my
aftermarket stereo head unit and back to the antenna controller ...

Chuck Willis



        ++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
The information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
dissemination or copying of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you have received
this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return
e-mail and delete this e-mail from your computer system. Thank you.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:39:55 -0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject: Team3S: mystery of the replacement antenna solved also cheap repl acements

It should just be a 1 volt or 5 volt signal that is used to trigger a relay
which powers the motor controls........   It cant be that complicated can
it?????????

Oh wait that's right I keep forgetting we have the most complicated
electrical system found on any car made prior to 97, also if anyone has any
suggestions on how to ditch that whole assembly and install a short flexible
amplified antenna I am all ears.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [SMTP:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 10:27 AM
> To:   team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject:  Team3S: mystery of the replacement antenna solved!
>
> Dear Pals,
>
> Turns out that when I disassembed the antenna motor to take out the broken
> off piece of antenna mast rack, I reassembled it with the plastic roll
> that
> serves as the take up for the rack put in backwards. (duh!) The plastic
> roll
> has a lip on one edge, but not the other.  As soon as I reassembled it, it
> took the whole mast in, as advertised.
>
> Now I just need to figure out how to get the power antenna signal out of
> my
> aftermarket stereo head unit and back to the antenna controller ...
>
> Chuck Willis
>
>
>
>       ++++++CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE+++++
> The information in this e-mail may be confidential and/or privileged.
> If you are not the intended recipient or an authorized representative
> of the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any review,
> dissemination or copying of this e-mail and its attachments, if any,
> or the information contained herein is prohibited. If you have received
> this e-mail in error, please immediately notify the sender by return
> e-mail and delete this e-mail from your computer system. Thank you.
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
This e-mail transmission may contain information that is proprietary, privileged and/or confidential and is intended exclusively for the person(s) to whom it is addressed. Any use, copying, retention or disclosure by any person other than the intended recipient or the intended recipient's designees is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and delete all copies.


==============================================================================


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:58:30 EDT
From: The68th@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Parking break light

- --part1_b8.2b504f17.2a7aa696_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

My parking break light comes on when I accelerate quickly in first gear. 
Other than that it doesn't seem to go on unless it is warranted.  Any ideas?

Chris
92 Stealth ES

- --part1_b8.2b504f17.2a7aa696_boundary
Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT  SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">My parking break light comes on when I accelerate quickly in first gear.  Other than that it doesn't seem to go on unless it is warranted.  Any ideas?<BR>
<BR>
Chris<BR>
92 Stealth ES</FONT></HTML>

- --part1_b8.2b504f17.2a7aa696_boundary--

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 08:01:16 -0700
From: Michael Gerhard <gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Parking break light

- --=====================_836997379==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

In my '91 Mitsu VR4, I think the brake light is the same for the parking
brake and for low fluid in the master cylinder. I'm thinking that you might
check your brake fluid level.


At 07:58 AM 8/1/02 , you wrote:
>My parking break light comes on when I accelerate quickly in first
>gear.  Other than that it doesn't seem to go on unless it is
>warranted.  Any ideas?
>
>Chris
>92 Stealth ES

- --------------------------------------------------------------
Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4  Pearl White

- --=====================_836997379==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
In my '91 Mitsu VR4, I think the brake light is the same for the parking
brake and for low fluid in the master cylinder. I'm thinking that you
might check your brake fluid level.<br>
<br>
<br>
At 07:58 AM 8/1/02 , you wrote:<br>
<font face="Arial, Helvetica" size=2><blockquote type=cite cite>My
parking break light comes on when I accelerate quickly in first
gear.  Other than that it doesn't seem to go on unless it is
warranted.  Any ideas?<br>
<br>
Chris<br>
92 Stealth ES</font><font face="arial"> </font></blockquote><br>
<div>--------------------------------------------------------------</div>
<div>Michael A. Gerhard     1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4  Pearl White</div>
</html>

- --=====================_836997379==_.ALT--


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 11:23:38 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 stutters heavily when cold, runs perfect when hot, stumped

I am getting stumped on this one.

After sitting overnight I'll start the vr-4 to drive it to work. Starts up fine and idles fine.
Pull out into the neighborhood and all hell breaks loose. Stutters and misfires heavily
under only partial throttle in 2nd and 3rd gear, doing only like 25 mph. Especially bad
when pulling away from stop signs. Its almost as if it's running way too rich.

As the car heats up and finally gets hot, the problem goes away. For example, this
morning, after about 10 minutes, the car ran perfectly. Stuttering and misfiring
GONE. Seamless power under boost. It has behaved this way for *several* mornings
in a row. I watched the numbers on the pocketlogger the whole time and nothing
seemed suspect, even when it was stuttering. It showed no engine codes.

I read through the 3si.org archives for other people having problems like this. A lot of
discussion was made about fouled spark plugs and the '91-'93 ECU having leaky
capacitors. I replaced the plugs and caps on my ECU (mine is a '93) and the problem
is still there. I've looked at every vacuum line and intercooler pipe in the engine bay
and I can't see (to the eye) anything loose or suspect for a leak. I wonder if it's a
vacuum leak that goes away when the engine gets hot? There was a thread that
mentioned something about the coolant temperature sensor would cause the car to
run very rich too ..

Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions on what to start looking at next? It's
driving me nuts.

Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:24:09 -0700
From: "fastmax" <fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 stutters heavily when cold, runs perfect when hot, stumped

What does the engine temp show from the pocket logger --- the ECU might be using
the wrong info. It has to run richer when cold maybe it doesn't know that the engine
is cold.

        Jim Berry
===========================================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 9:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 stutters heavily when cold, runs perfect when hot, stumped


> I am getting stumped on this one.
>
> After sitting overnight I'll start the vr-4 to drive it to work. Starts up fine and idles fine.
> Pull out into the neighborhood and all hell breaks loose. Stutters and misfires heavily
> under only partial throttle in 2nd and 3rd gear, doing only like 25 mph. Especially bad
> when pulling away from stop signs. Its almost as if it's running way too rich.
>
> As the car heats up and finally gets hot, the problem goes away. For example, this
> morning, after about 10 minutes, the car ran perfectly. Stuttering and misfiring
> GONE. Seamless power under boost. It has behaved this way for *several* mornings
> in a row. I watched the numbers on the pocketlogger the whole time and nothing
> seemed suspect, even when it was stuttering. It showed no engine codes.
>
> I read through the 3si.org archives for other people having problems like this. A lot of
> discussion was made about fouled spark plugs and the '91-'93 ECU having leaky
> capacitors. I replaced the plugs and caps on my ECU (mine is a '93) and the problem
> is still there. I've looked at every vacuum line and intercooler pipe in the engine bay
> and I can't see (to the eye) anything loose or suspect for a leak. I wonder if it's a
> vacuum leak that goes away when the engine gets hot? There was a thread that
> mentioned something about the coolant temperature sensor would cause the car to
> run very rich too ..
>
> Has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions on what to start looking at next? It's
> driving me nuts.
>
> Walton C. Gibson
> kalla@tripoint.org
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 11:35:56 -0600
From: "Kyle Call" <redcelicagt@cableone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Broken Bolt

I saw something i've never seen before today when I was cleaning the rims of
my car. One of the passanger front bolts that hold the wheel on broke off.
the stem of the bolt is still in the hole, but the head is nowhere to be
found.

Two questions. First, is this dangerous / cause for concern? Second, How to
get the remains of the bolt out?

Thanks,
Kyle Call
93 SL


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 10:44:40 -0700
From: "James Mutton" <james@playstream.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Broken Bolt

1) Yes, missing one puts a bad strain on the others.

2) The hub needs to be removed, the broken stud will need to be pressed
out and a new one pressed in.

James Mutton (vrrrr4)
95 3000GT VR4


- -----Original Message-----
From: Kyle Call [mailto:redcelicagt@cableone.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 10:36 AM
To: Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Broken Bolt


I saw something i've never seen before today when I was cleaning the
rims of my car. One of the passanger front bolts that hold the wheel on
broke off. the stem of the bolt is still in the hole, but the head is
nowhere to be found.

Two questions. First, is this dangerous / cause for concern? Second, How
to get the remains of the bolt out?

Thanks,
Kyle Call
93 SL


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 01 Aug 2002 17:57:13 -0000
From: "Jeff Lucius" <jlucius@stealth316.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Broken Bolt

Tips for replacing front wheel bolts for AWD:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-wheelbolt.htm

I don't know how applicable these are for the FWD which uses a different
setup. For the AWD, presses are not needed and the hub does not need to be
removed if you are willing to modify the knuckle.

Jeff Lucius, http://www.stealth316.com/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kyle Call [mailto:redcelicagt@cableone.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 10:36 AM
To: Team3s
Subject: Team3S: Broken Bolt

I saw something i've never seen before today when I was cleaning the
rims of my car. One of the passanger front bolts that hold the wheel on
broke off. the stem of the bolt is still in the hole, but the head is
nowhere to be found.

Two questions. First, is this dangerous / cause for concern? Second, How
to get the remains of the bolt out?

Thanks,
Kyle Call
93 SL



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:15:34 -0400
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start

Actually - the 60k tuneup was performed at 139k!  Is there an award for the
Highest Mileage Timing Belt?

After I got battery charged the car finally started, although I am still
getting some hiccups from the ECU.  Check Engine is going on an off, as well
as ABS light.  I think I'll try and reset it, and see if that makes it go
away - otherwise I'll probably have to replace it.

Is this an opportunity to upgrade?  Or do I need a good working ECU as some
kind of "core" for an ECU upgrade?

Steve C.
92 RT TT

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 4:22 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start


> ECU at 60k tune-up??  Sounds kinda fishy. Anyhow, check the fuel delivery
> system too. This includes hoses, regulators, and solenoids in the circuit.
> Get away from the worthless dealers if you can. The last time I dealed
with
> one, I paid $85 to have them tell me my car is old and rusty and not worth
> fixing. They didn't even put it back together right! I did the work myself
> and my baby runs great. One more thing. Try spraying some starting fluid
in
> there and see if it keeps it running. That'll tell you whether the spark
> itself is stopping or the fuel is stopping/low pressure    y'know what i
> mean??  Good luck with it.
>
> Riyan
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 14:11:12 -0400
From: "SWC" <swc@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Any advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that deliver more pony's

David,

Here's three good informational sites to get you started:

www.3si.org/ (This one has a link for staged upgrades)
www.stealth316.com
www.stealth-3000gt.st/

This has probably been posted a thousand times, but here's my recommended
upgrade path - biggest bank for the $.

Boost Gauge - get an accurate baseline reading before you start changing
everything else. ($50 - $100)
Better Air Intake - like a K&N FIPK or a DIY equivalent ($60 - $150)
Gut the catalytic converters or Replace the downpipe and just gut the rear
pre-cat ($0 - $400)
Performance Muffler - $50 - $100
New Plugs - $20
New Wires - $150

Now - you don't gain a lot of additional HP with the above mods, but it sets
the stage for you to add a boost controller and SAFELY turn up the boost.
($35 - $300 - $600+)

If you take the cheap approach you can do all this for a total of under
$400.

IMHO you don't need to upgrade your injectors and fuel components unless you
really are going to up the boost.  If you are going that route then you
should probably spend more money on the basic upgrades.  (like go for the
downpipe and a decent electronic boost controller instead of a manual one.)

Also - it would be good to try and verify when the timing belt was last
changed.........

Good luck.

Steve C.
92 RT TT - 139k miles

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Mosher, David" <dmosher@ea.com>
To: <team3S@team3s.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 30, 2002 6:09 PM
Subject: Team3S: Any advice on simple "Cost Effective" bolt on mods that
deliver more pony's


>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> I am a Nebee to the list but I must say the info read over the past few
days has been very useful; Thanks.
>
> I have a 92 pearl white VR4 183k  that I am restoring. I have just finish
the paint work and I was looking for some advice on simple "Cost Effective"
bolt on mods that deliver more pony's?  My long term goal is to keep the car
primarily stock or at least limit my mods so that I can easily return to
stock parts.
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
> David.
>
> PS.  I live in SFO CA  and I am in search of a reputable parts/accessories
shop.
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 11:33:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: glenn vrfour <vr4glenn@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't start

This web page covers ECU problems(and cures) fairly
well.

http://johnmonnin.netfirms.com/ECUrepair.html

I had the capacitors replaced as a preventative
measure on my '93.  Had my electronics wizard buddy do
the soldering.

Glenn
'93 VR-4 with 2002 ECU capacitors (about $1)


- --- SWC <swc@centurytel.net> wrote:
> Actually - the 60k tuneup was performed at 139k!  Is
> there an award for the
> Highest Mileage Timing Belt?
>
> After I got battery charged the car finally started,
> although I am still
> getting some hiccups from the ECU.  Check Engine is
> going on an off, as well
> as ABS light.  I think I'll try and reset it, and
> see if that makes it go
> away - otherwise I'll probably have to replace it.
>
> Is this an opportunity to upgrade?  Or do I need a
> good working ECU as some
> kind of "core" for an ECU upgrade?
>
> Steve C.
> 92 RT TT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
> To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 4:22 AM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: help - 92TT stranded and won't
> start
>
>
> > ECU at 60k tune-up??  Sounds kinda fishy. Anyhow,
> check the fuel delivery
> > system too. This includes hoses, regulators, and
> solenoids in the circuit.
> > Get away from the worthless dealers if you can.
> The last time I dealed
> with
> > one, I paid $85 to have them tell me my car is old
> and rusty and not worth
> > fixing. They didn't even put it back together
> right! I did the work myself
> > and my baby runs great. One more thing. Try
> spraying some starting fluid
> in
> > there and see if it keeps it running. That'll tell
> you whether the spark
> > itself is stopping or the fuel is stopping/low
> pressure    y'know what i
> > mean??  Good luck with it.
> >
> > Riyan
> >
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***
> >
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better
http://health.yahoo.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 1 Aug 2002 12:41:43 -0700
From: "Riyan Mynuddin" <riyan@hotpop.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR-4 stutters heavily when cold, runs perfect when hot, stumped

Exactly what I was going to say. Remember that the CEL (check engine light)
generally comes on when the sensor actually goes bad. A faulty or dying
sensor does not necessarily turn it on. Also, I'm not sure about our cars,
but I know that *most* cars have either two or three coolant temp. sensors.
So make sure you replace the right one. We are talking about the coolant
temp sensor that reports to the ECU. There are other sensors that control
when the fans go on, and the temp gauge.

Good luck,
riyan

\/\/\/\/

***********************************

What does the engine temp show from the pocket logger --- the ECU might be
using
the wrong info. It has to run richer when cold maybe it doesn't know that
the engine
is cold.

        Jim Berry



***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #913
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