Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, May 21
2002 Volume 01 : Number
847
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 20 May 2002 23:53:00 -0500
From: "William Jeffrey Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbos...Choices
Ok guys...HELP!!
As most of you know, I'm
bringing my car back from the grave. And I'm down
to a couple choices
on a couple of issues.
The issue of the day:
I'm confused as to
which turbos to go with. My two choices are the 13g's OR
the Dynamic
Racing DR500's. I'm not too clear as to what the differences
are and
what makes the dr500's a couple of hundred dollars more. I'm also
curious if
the extra money is worth it in the longview.
The car WILL NOT be a daily
Driver for me but I'm not trying to build a
track car and probably won't ever
do any serious racing. When I'm finished,
I would like to have a go
fast mobile that will put you in your seat real
good and look pretty doing
it.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T
TT(3SI#0499)
2K
Wrangler TJ
Sport
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 20 May 2002 22:56:27
-0700
From: "Erik Petterson" <
erik@microworks.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Long: Saga with speaker install, plugs & wires
> I gutted
the inside of the car to run wiring to an Infinity Basslink
> subwoofer in
the rear.
Why did you choose that? You must be sticking with the
stock deck?
> However, I want to do some sound deadening. Any advice?
Dynamat? Something
similar but less expensive?
If you want to go cheap
you can use spray insulation or other types of
insulation from home depot(my
rear hatch is stuffed full with some cheapo
silver roll type insulation from
home depot, but my 2 12's really still
rattle the back hatch)
Just go
with dynamat. I don't know which is better though; the spray kind,
or
the silver rollout stuff???
> Getting 4 gauge wire or whatever size
necessary to the rear if one was to
> reposition their battery would
appear to be a major endeavor. Where does
one
> run those hot
wires?
I ran a 4 gauge wire from the battery all the way to the very
back
compartment in about 20min. Straight from the battery positive
over to the
opening in the firewall by drivers feet, then run alongside the
middle kick
pannel, then take out the center console storage thing and run to
backseat
floorboard, up to the back seat and then poke through to back
area. Easy as
pie! Even with that huge 4 gauge cable. Unless you
are looking for it, no
one will see it. Be careful not to drag the
cable against any sharp metal
as a 4 gauge wire can be expensive(mine cost
$65 for 15 feet)....had about a
foot and a half extra.
- -Erik
'91
Stealth
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:33:17
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem
I checked the Y-pipe and all the
hoses going to the AVCR solenoid. They are
as clean as a
whistle.
Any other thoughts on the cause?
Dave 95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net-
-----Original Message-----
From: Furman, Russell
[mailto:RFurman2@MassMutual.com]
Sent: Monday, May 20, 2002 8:55 AM
To:
Black, Dave (ICT);
stealth@starnet.net;
Team3s (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem
Hey
Dave it sounds like the solenoid is sticking. When you have a
chance
check you IC pipes for oil also pull the solenoid and try spraying a
tiny
bit of electric motor cleaner (stuff used on RC cars) into the solenoid
it
should help the problem
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Black, Dave (ICT) [SMTP:dblai@allstate.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 20,
2002 9:41 AM
> To:
stealth@starnet.net; Team3s
(E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem
>
>
Hi all,
>
> I experienced a problem yesterday for the first time -
my boost solenoid
> for
> my Apexi AVCR was not functioning. I
know this because the controller
> list
> 0.0% as the max value for
the boost solenoid. It was functioning properly
> since I bought it
new in October and have all the settings set correctly.
>
> I also
noticed the problem again this morning. It went away yesterday for
>
apparently no reason at all. I stopped to check under the hood and
made
> sure the hoses were not crimped and all connections to the AVCR
components
> in the engine bay were connected. Nothing appeared to
be worn or
> corroded.
> I took it our for another run and the
solenoid worked correctly again. I
> have not yet checked the
connections to the ECU. Could a loose wire there
> cause this to
happen?
>
> Anyone ever experience this problem? Any thoughts
on diagnosing?
>
> Dave 95VR4
>
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:37:03
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem
Did you mount it somewhere so it
is standing upright? Also did you mount
closer to a significant heat
source (i.e. near the rear turbo) is it
mounted near a source of
significant vibration?
Any of these things can cause premature failure of
any manufacturers
stepping motor/solenoid.
Russ F
CT
93
VR-4 She's down but not out
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:44:43
-0500
From: "Black, Dave (ICT)" <
dblai@allstate.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: AVCR Boost solenoid problem
I have the pressure sensor and boost
solenoid mounted upright directly
adjacent to the K&N FIPK. The
area does not seem to be directly near a heat
source or in an area of
significant vibration.
I have checked the wiring in the engine bay and
all appears to be fine. I
have yet to check the connections to the
ECU. I did not solder them
together like I probably should have.
Could loose connections here cause
this problem?
All day yesterday it
cut in and out with the boost solenoid working/not
working.
Dave
95VR4
http://www.daveblack.net***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 10:54:27
-0400
From: "Mark Elkin" <
markelkin@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: [For Sale] '96 VR-4....$15,800
Got married last year, wife and I
are planning to start a family so I am
selling the VR-4.
My car is
Pearl White and has 17" forged Fittipaldi wheels. It is stock
except for the
wheels and a drop-in K&N filter. It has an electric
sunroof. The active
aero works. The front bumper cover was painted
before I bought the car and
could us a little paint work. It looks good
except around the very bottom on
the driver's side.
The car now has ~85,200 miles on it. I have owned the
car since it had ~
50,000 miles on it and I have had the timing
belt/waterpump/fuel filter
replaced at 70,000. It has 245/45/17 Dunlop sp5000
tires with about
16,500 or so miles on them.
The car has a 6 disk cd
changer....not stock, but, it is the Panasonic
one that works with the
controls on the stock head unit.
I change the oil religiously every
3000-3500 miles with Mobil 1 and I
use K&N or stock Mitsubishi oil
filters. Edmunds values the car at
$19,174 from a dealer and at $15,917 from
a private party. I am asking
$15,800 for the car. If anyone is interested or
if you have further
questions about the car, please e-mail me off the list
at
markelkin@mindspring.com
My car is in good condition, but, it is not in mint condition. That
is
why I am asking what I am for it.
See pics and Carfax
at:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=2c0fee5b0dc9eb48f4ba5349cdbac50e&threadid=80641
BTW,
the car is in Lexington, KY.
Mark '96 VR-4
'97 YZF
600R
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 09:46:33
-0700
From: "Geddes, Brian J" <
brian.j.geddes@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
All -
I posted this to the
3si message board, but I figured I'd send out the same
message here:
I
recently received (earlier this week) some Sparco Torinos. After driving
in
them for a couple of days, I've decided that I'm just a bit too big for
them.
So, I've decided to sell them. You can see them at
www.sparcousa.com,
under the "Street"
section of the "Seats" tab. The color scheme is black
center with light
grey trim. They look really nice in my VR-4, which has
the
cream/charcoal interior.
If you're not as big as me (6'2", 210, broad
shoulders), then I think these
are the best seats on the market. Read this
thread for more details on how
much I love these seats, but why I'm selling
them:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.p...1128#post651128<
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=651128>
I'll ask $1300 for everything. It includes 2 Sparco Torino seats, 2
3/S
specific floor brackets, 2 sets of seat mounting brackets, and 2 sets
of
sliders. Look around - I promise you won't find a price this good. If
you're
willing to travel to my home in Olympia, WA then I'll help you install
them
in your car. In fact, I'd prefer to sell locally to avoid the
hassle of
shipping.
Email if you have any questions.
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:19:54
-0400
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Long:
Saga with speaker install, plugs & wires
I have run my 2 gauge cable
through the shift linkage grommet. Seems to
be plenty of rubber below and in
between the two shifter linkages going
through the firewall to drill out and
pass a nice thick cable through...
then I routed it along the center console
through one of the metal
"troughs" that seems to be part of the pressed
steel... then under the
carpet on the little hump in the back and under the
seats. This way I
can pass speaker wires down either side of the car with no
worries about
engine noise being introduced through the power
cables.
Omar
Black 92 R/T
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Desert Fox
Sent: Monday, May
20, 2002 12:01 PM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Long: Saga with speaker install, plugs & wires
I'm looking at
putting a breather on the PCV and blocking off it's
reuptake
to the
intake. That'll show that pesky PCV...
My speaker project has turned into
an almost week long tear apart.
Pulled
the battery for the project,
noticed that only one bolt was holding the
washer fluid bottle to the battery
tray. Got it all fixed up including
much
needed black paint to rusty tray
and mount area.
I gutted the inside of the car to run wiring to an
Infinity Basslink
subwoofer in the rear. Very interesting what one learns
through thorough
disassembly. There are quite a few places where the wiring
just seems to
fit
in naturally to extra stays and clips that aren't
already used. My car
probably weighs 10 pounds less too, after extracting all
the pennies and
even a few other higher denominations of coin which the
previous owner
was
kind enough to leave under the carpeting for me. Beer
money! Oh yeah, I
don't drink...
Talk about clean! Tear all the trim
out and out comes another several
pounds
of dust and dirt.
So the
car has been apart since about Thursday of last week but I have
tested the
install and I'm ready to reassemble. However, I want to do
some
sound
deadening. Any advice? Dynamat? Something similar but less
expensive?
It
would seem that a ton of road noise could be deadened by covering the
rear
strut towers, bare metal area where passenger's foot compartment is
located,
doors, and in the rear hatch area. Not that I can't just crank
the
stereo
now but I've always felt that there was a lot of road noise in
our
cars. I
took care of the wind noise by replacing the front hardware on
the
sunroof
- time to eliminate the road noise now.
I also ended up RE-installing the
Motorola 3 watt booster/ car phone kit
as
I was appalled at how the guy
had slapped it in there. Some people take
no
pride in their work. One of
the components is the amp box, which they
had
just stuck up inside under
the right hand side quarter panel trim. And I
was
wondering what the hell
all that racket was... I repositioned that box
up in
the space under the
right rear seatbelt mount. Tighter than a nun now...
Keeping the rear
seat out is a tempting proposition seeing as how I
rarely
transport 2 foot
tall people or children. But as it is, the rear seat
seems
to be the most
aesthetically pleasing sound deadening piece for the
price.
Before
changing spark plugs and ignition wires, I would feel
surges
under
acceleration, which I was originally contributed to my
slipping clutch.
Now
that the clutch is new, I noticed that the hesitation
was still there
occasionally under hard acceleration whereas with the new
plugs and
wires
acceleration is much smoother. It was probably one or two
of the old
plugs
that were misfiring. Seems to me that a 60,000 mile spark
plug
maintenance
interval is stretching it. I'm pulling mine in 1,000
miles to inspect.
I have the photos and measurements together to setup on
my website and
will
do so once I have accomplished the
reassembly.
Running power from the battery to the sub's amp in the rear,
grounding
to
the rear, splicing into the rear and door speaker wires at
the amp under
the
passenger's seat with an adjustable line output
converter to RCA jacks,
run
RCA patch cords to rear, and splice the remote
turn-on to the rear of
the
head unit were the basic steps.
I went
with 10 gauge power wire, which is supposed to be sufficient for
a
750
watt amp (at that length) instead of the 12 gauge recommended for
the
200
watts of the sub's built-in amp.
Getting 4 gauge wire or whatever size
necessary to the rear if one was
to
reposition their battery would appear
to be a major endeavor. Where does
one
run those hot wires?
Better
start working this morning instead of spewing to the list...
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi
exit
+formerly reasonable and prudent
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:24:46
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
Just a reminder ... the Torino is
not an approved racing seat for those
interested in doing Open Track events
or Autocross. Some groups will
allow this (it tilts back and
race-approved or FIA-approved seats are a
fixed recline angle).
Just
in case someone didn't see that before they purchased them.
Good
luck.
In case it helps I have a Sparco Evo in my car and I can't
mention how
nice it is. Removable cloth cover for washing, removable
back and
bottom cushion for washing or to shrink just that last inch,
etc. I
love them.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geddes, Brian J
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002
12:47
All -
I posted this to the 3si message board, but I
figured I'd send out the
same
message here:
I recently received
(earlier this week) some Sparco Torinos. After
driving
in them for a
couple of days, I've decided that I'm just a bit too big
for
them. So,
I've decided to sell them. You can see them at
www.sparcousa.com,
under the "Street"
section of the "Seats" tab. The color scheme is
black
center with
light grey trim. They look really nice in my VR-4, which
has
the
cream/charcoal interior.
If you're not as big as me (6'2", 210, broad
shoulders), then I think
these
are the best seats on the market. Read this
thread for more details on
how
much I love these seats, but why I'm
selling them:
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.p...1128#post651128<
http://www.3si.org/vbb/showthread.php?s=&postid=651128>
I'll ask $1300 for everything. It includes 2 Sparco Torino seats, 2
3/S
specific floor brackets, 2 sets of seat mounting brackets, and 2 sets
of
sliders. Look around - I promise you won't find a price this good.
If
you're
willing to travel to my home in Olympia, WA then I'll help you
install
them
in your car. In fact, I'd prefer to sell locally to
avoid the hassle of
shipping.
Email if you have any questions.
Thanks,
- - Brian
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:45:18
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel
Tztz, here we see that sooo many member
have never see n my site !!
> Fantastic, Forrest! I'm wondering
about the pictures in the 3000GT on
> Page 1 of that article. If
this is the first gen that we all know and
No, it's a 1996 + European
Import !
> love then the left-hand gauge in the dash is a small
digital gauge for
> something.
This somethign is a watch. All
europeans have that.
> The middle gauge has two needles on it for
something, and
> then the right gauge for I'm guessing boost.
No,
no. The middle is boost and water temp combined amd the right one ... is
the
same you have.
> The left one looks like a
> clock with
Hours, Minutes, Date/Time buttons but I can't tell.
Just go to my page
and see the 1993 prospectus.
> Then in the center cluster where the
Auto-climate is the buttons and
> knobs look different too. The
auto-climate screen and then to the right
> is just a single knob.
Below the Auto-climate is maybe storage for
> tapes or something.
Was this a concept car or an actual street design?
It's the redesign they
did in the last 50 cars that went to Europe.
PS : Nobody mentioned the
white position marker light on the front bumper
:-(
Roger
93'3000GT
TT full european 1st gen car
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:53:04
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel
Roger,
I saw the white
position marker on the front but chalked this up to
more European lighting
standards. The clock (in the left gauge pod
position of the center
dash) is identical to my dad's Mercedes Benz 140E
I do believe but his is
cracked and does not work. It is right next to
another gauge (VDO brand
I think) that does.
I have seen your site but it is not one I
look at for pictures. I go
there for Turbo basics, setting up boost
controllers, etc. maybe now
you will get some hits to it.
>
> The middle gauge has two needles on it for something, and
> > then
the right gauge for I'm guessing boost.
>No, no. The middle is boost
and water temp combined amd the right
>one ... is the same you
have.
Roger, in my 1995 the left gauge is water temp, the
middle one is oil
pressure, and the right gauge in the center dash is
boost. I don't
think any US models ever combined readings like
this. So if boost is
combined with water temp then the right one should
be oil pressure.
Just weird that they took up a gauge housing for a clock
that can be
displayed on the radio or elsewhere when oil temp is more
important than
time.
I wasn't about to mention that this is a LHD
Russian car when another
picture of a sandstone grey one in Russia was
RHD. Maybe it was an
import from nearby Poland or something. I
did wonder about that but if
this is a European spec then it is a LHD and I
guess the Japanese or New
Zealand/Australia/Ireland imports were
RHD.
- --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 20:56:14
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: OT : 1992 Targa 3000GT in "CityHunter"
I know we europeans are
late in getting those movies but yesterday I saw
this movie with Jacky Chan
(spelled right ??) and he droves a red 1992
3000GT with a Targa Top (not T).
Also the rear spoiler was different, like a
longer Bozz one. It was read with
a total white interiour. Very nice car
indeed. Anyone has a closer shot of it
?
Thanks,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 15:01:40
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel
Roger,
And I can't translate German on
the fly anymore but don't see in your
Prospectus where the Auto-Climate
control area was changed or an option
to look like the one in the Russian
car. I do see the three center
gauges and must say I don't care for the
ugly digital clock when an
analog would look more like a close fit to the
other gauges. That must
have been things they did when they ran out of
parts on the floor ...
replace the Auto-Climate with this piece and the left
gauge with this
clock.
- --Flash!
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002
14:45
> The left one looks like a
> clock with
Hours, Minutes, Date/Time buttons but I can't tell.
Just go to my page
and see the 1993 prospectus.
> Then in the center cluster where the
Auto-climate is the buttons and
> knobs look different too. The
auto-climate screen and then to the
right
> is just a single
knob. Below the Auto-climate is maybe storage for
> tapes or
something. Was this a concept car or an actual
street
design?
It's the redesign they did in the last 50 cars that
went to Europe.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:15:41
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel
> I do believe but his is cracked and
does not work. It is right next to
> another gauge (VDO brand I
think) that does.
Ours is a Denso brand and can be switched between 12h
or 24h view.
> I have seen your site but it is not
one I look at for pictures. I go
> there for Turbo basics, setting
up boost controllers, etc. maybe now
> you will get some hits to
it.
Hehe, go to one of the lower links as the prospectus has some nice
shots :)
> >No, no. The middle is boost and water temp combined amd
the right
> >one ... is the same you have.
>
> Roger, in my
1995 the left gauge is water temp, the middle one is oil
> pressure, and
the right gauge in the center dash is boost.
Really ?? All cars I've seen
so far had Boost, water and oil pressure, (from
left to right) but I can be
wrong. Our most rigth one is oil pressure. This
is why it shows zero when the
engine is shut off and the temp is still in
the normal area.
>
think any US models ever combined readings like this. So if boost
is
> combined with water temp then the right one should be oil
pressure.
Yep :)
> Just weird that they took up a gauge housing
for a clock that can be
> displayed on the radio or elsewhere when oil
temp is more important than
> time.
Don't ask :) The 2nd gen also
came with an alarm system that showed it's
status in the clock display. I
guess it was state of the art having a clock
in the car. I like it
:)
> > I wasn't about to mention that this is a LHD Russian car
when another
> picture of a sandstone grey one in Russia was
RHD.
Yes, I guess Rasuls 96 is from the UK
> Maybe it was
an
> import from nearby Poland or something. I did wonder about that
but if
> this is a European spec then it is a LHD and I guess the Japanese
or New
> Zealand/Australia/Ireland imports were RHD.
The UK ones
are the japanese version with some speed governors and other
anti-goodies
installed.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:18:07
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3S in a wind tunnel
> And I can't translate German on the
fly anymore but don't see in your
> Prospectus where the Auto-Climate
control area was changed or an option
> to look like the one in the
Russian car.
No, my car (the one on the prospectus) is a 1993 and they
changed this in
the end of 1996 or beginning of 1997 when the last ones have
been imported.
> I do see the three center
> gauges and
must say I don't care for the ugly digital clock when an
> analog would
look more like a close fit to the other gauges. That must
> have
been things they did when they ran out of parts on the floor ...
> replace
the Auto-Climate with this piece and the left gauge with this
>
clock.
Well, when it is there one can live with it :) Or do you ever loo
kat your
stock bosot gauge ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 15:31:15
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: OT : 1992 Targa 3000GT in "CityHunter"
Also off-topic but Beverly
Hills Cop III has Eddie Murphy driving a
Stealth (second gen I think) but it
is the amazing Hollywood version
which is a RWD since it slides the back end
on several hard cornering
moves. Sadly, it falls to its crushing death
off a bridge. I'm sure it
was just a kit car for them to destroy it
like that.
The only technical content is when the car thieves were
shooting at the
Stealth from the front a bullet rips out the passenger
seat. Amazing
how a bullet can yank out four Grade 8 bolts just like
that. =) The
interior got gutted in about 14 seconds. Maybe
we need to learn
something about shaving weight from cars as fast as
Hollywood does.
I have not seen this Jackie Chan movie yet. Sounds
like one to rent.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Roger Gerl
Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 14:56
I know we europeans
are late in getting those movies but yesterday I saw
this movie with Jacky
Chan (spelled right ??) and he droves a red 1992
3000GT with a Targa Top (not
T). Also the rear spoiler was different,
like a
longer Bozz one. It was
read with a total white interiour. Very nice car
indeed. Anyone has a closer
shot of it ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 14:39:03
-0500
From: "Geisel, Brian" <
Brian.Geisel@COMPAQ.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbos...Choices
I've got the DR500's myself. I believe
they flow slightly more CFM (you can call and ask DR if the numbers aren't on
their site). I've been very happy with them, but I haven't done a lot with
the car yet. The good news is that unless someone knows the turbos, you
can't tell the diff. between DR500 and stock - they're in the stock
housings. This means NOTHING needs modified for the new turbos. I
know the 15Gs require some mods and I believe the 13Gs require at least some
simple ones... not totally sure though.
AFAIK, DR500s flow more CFM and
require 0 mods from stock.
geis
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: William Jeffrey Crabtree
[mailto:wjcrabtree@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 12:53
AM
> To: team3s
> Subject: Team3S: Turbos...Choices
>
>
> Ok guys...HELP!!
>
> As most of you know, I'm bringing my
car back from the grave.
> And I'm down
> to a couple choices
on a couple of issues.
>
> The issue of the day:
>
>
I'm confused as to which turbos to go with. My two choices
> are
the 13g's OR
> the Dynamic Racing DR500's. I'm not too clear as to
what the
> differences
> are and what makes the dr500's a couple of
hundred dollars
> more. I'm also
> curious if the extra money is
worth it in the longview.
>
> The car WILL NOT be a daily Driver
for me but I'm not trying
> to build a
> track car and probably
won't ever do any serious racing.
> When I'm finished,
> I
would like to have a go fast mobile that will put you in
> your seat
real
> good and look pretty doing it.
>
>
> -Jeff
Crabtree
> '91 R/T
TT(3SI#0499)
>
2K Wrangler TJ
Sport
>
St. Louis, MO
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 15:43:43
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbos...Choices
> The good news is that unless someone knows
the
> turbos, you can't tell the diff. between DR500 and
> stock -
they're in the stock housings. This means
> NOTHING needs modified
for the new turbos. I
> know the 15Gs require some mods and I
believe the
> 13Gs require at least some simple ones... not
totally
> sure though.
Nah, the 13G and 15G turbos don't require
any mechanical mods to fit them
onto the car. The oil lines, water
lines, exhaust manifold and O2 housings
all bolt right up.
The IHI
hybrids, Garrets and TD05 housed turbos (16G, 20G, etc.) require
some exhaust
manifold fabrication or modification - as well as custom
O2
housings.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
15Gs
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 16:53:50
-0400
From: "Furman, Russell" <
RFurman2@MassMutual.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbos...Choices
While we are on this thread I am revisiting
my turbo choices Narrowed down
to these 357 Mags, 368SX's, DR650's. Now
I know the 368's are the largest
and have the greatest power potential
however how do the others stack up?
Are the 357 or 650 capable of 400 AWHP on
pump gas without water injection
obviously with the supporting
mods)?
I have a couple of local guys I want to get and don't want to have
any more
lag than necessary, yes as the DSM say it I am a lag
bish.
Decisions I hate making fawking decisions.
Thanks
Guys/Gals
Russ F
CT
93 VR-4 She's down but not
out
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Jannusch
[SMTP:mjannusch@attbi.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 21, 2002 4:44 PM
>
To: Geisel, Brian; team3s
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbos...Choices
>
> > The good news is that unless someone knows the
> >
turbos, you can't tell the diff. between DR500 and
> > stock - they're
in the stock housings. This means
> > NOTHING needs modified for
the new turbos. I
> > know the 15Gs require some mods and I
believe the
> > 13Gs require at least some simple ones... not
totally
> > sure though.
>
> Nah, the 13G and 15G turbos
don't require any mechanical mods to fit them
> onto the car. The
oil lines, water lines, exhaust manifold and O2
> housings
> all
bolt right up.
>
> The IHI hybrids, Garrets and TD05 housed turbos
(16G, 20G, etc.) require
> some exhaust manifold fabrication or
modification - as well as custom O2
> housings.
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> 15Gs
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 00:22:48
+0200
From: "Roger Gerl" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbos...Choices
> While we are on this thread I am
revisiting my turbo choices Narrowed down
> to these 357 Mags, 368SX's,
DR650's. Now I know the 368's are the largest
> and have the
greatest power potential however how do the others stack up?
> Are the 357
or 650 capable of 400 AWHP on pump gas without water injection
> obviously
with the supporting mods)?
Wwhat power potential ?? You should ask
yourself what power you want to have
on what rpm and then calculate the
amount of fuel you need and therefore the
appropriate amount of air. Then
choose the right turbos with the
right
intercoolers.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:05:21
EDT
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S: DYNO
#'s
I dynoed my car at AAM today. Temperature around 65 degrees,
boost set at
1.4 bar 610WHP and 500 max torque. If you are interested
in my mods go to
the AAM web site and click on Chuck's car.
Regards Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:23:30
-0500
From: "Matt Jannusch" <
mjannusch@attbi.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Anyone see Alex Pedenko?
I need to reach him as we are working on
a 3/S related project (knock sum on
'94-95 ECUs) and his email (
apedenko@attbi.com) no longer
works.
If someone who might know him could get him in touch with me that
would be
great...
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 21:43:22
-0400
From: "Bill vp" <
billvp@highstream.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
Does this mean you cannot use
the stock (which reclines) seat, or does this
apply only to aftermarket
seats?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Tuesday, May 21, 2002 2:25 PM
To: 'Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)';
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
Just a reminder ... the Torino is
not an approved racing seat for those
interested in doing Open Track events
or Autocross. Some groups will
allow this (it tilts back and
race-approved or FIA-approved seats are a
fixed recline angle).
Just
in case someone didn't see that before they purchased them.
Good
luck.
In case it helps I have a Sparco Evo in my car and I can't
mention how
nice it is. Removable cloth cover for washing, removable
back and
bottom cushion for washing or to shrink just that last inch,
etc. I
love them.
- --Flash!
www.schilberg.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:24:15
-0700
From: "fastmax" <
fastmax@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
More Adventures in Braking
Late response to Geoff's message --- I have
anecdotal proof that the rear brakes
on my car are not doing their share of
the stopping --- even if Geoff doesn't
believe
me.
Jim
Berry
==================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
> > 1. Any chance we could fab a bracket to put Big Reds on the rear
of a
> > 3000GT? Has anyone peeked at the rear brakes and made
any kind of
> > assessment on the possibility of changing calipers back
there?
> Any upgrade requires proof that something is actually
inadequate.
Geoff
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 19:45:28
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Adventures in Braking
Just depends how you measure 'fair
share'.
Nice dry race track is one thing.
Inclement weather is
quite another.
On Tue, 21 May 2002, fastmax wrote:
> Late
response to Geoff's message --- I have anecdotal proof that the rear
brakes
> on my car are not doing their share of the stopping --- even if
Geoff doesn't
> believe me.
>
> Jim Berry
>
==================================================
>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
>
> > > > 1. Any chance we could fab a bracket to
put Big Reds on the rear of a
> > > 3000GT? Has anyone peeked
at the rear brakes and made any kind of
> > > assessment on the
possibility of changing calipers back there?
>
>
> > Any
upgrade requires proof that something is actually inadequate.
>
>
Geoff
- ---
Geoff Mohler
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 21 May 2002 23:39:50
-0500
From: "Oskar Persson" <
osk@attbi.com>
Subject: Team3S: Reclining
seats and open tracking
I'm curious about this statement as well. I
have never had any problems
using my stock seats at any of the many auto-x
and open rack events that I
have participated in. Of course they are
not approved racing seats.
Darren, is it possible that you can shed some
light on this.
Thanks,
Oskar
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Bill vp
Sent: Tuesday, May
21, 2002 8:43 PM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.comCc:
team3/S
Subject: RE: Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
Does this
mean you cannot use the stock (which reclines) seat, or does this
apply only
to aftermarket seats?
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Tuesday, May 21, 2002 2:25 PM
To: 'Team3S Mailing List (E-mail)';
3sracers@speedtoys.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: [For Sale] Sparco Torino seats
Just a reminder ... the Torino is
not an approved racing seat for those
interested in doing Open Track events
or Autocross.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#847
***************************************