Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Monday, November 12
2001 Volume 01 : Number
671
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 11 Nov 2001 09:53:29 -0800
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Top Speed
In a modified car with tons of HP would be the only
time you would use
6th in a high speed run, but you would use it in that
case. I need to
get some EGT gauges before I start doing high speed runs . .
.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway
Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Darren Schilberg
Sent:
Saturday, November 10, 2001 9:07 PM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Top
Speed
I believe top speed in any of our cars is going to be 5th
gear. Even
for the 6 gear guys. Just because the gear is one
number higher doesn't
mean it will go faster. Sixth is geared lower
than fifth and I think
the book says the stock car (TT) will do 168 mph and
this is attained in
fifth gear. I think this might also be supported by
the shift range
(redline usually) that give a speed to shift out of for fifth
gear but
nothing to shift out of for sixth ... not because there is no gear
to
shift into but because you will not be able to redline in sixth
gear
(drag limited usually).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
4th gear at
142 mph so far but ran out of confident road quickly
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Sam Shelat
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001
18:03
If you have enough power in a second gen to redline 6th gear,
your doing
something crazy like 225 or so mph. Matt from Dynamic Racing
has
claimed he has done this in a 95 TT (modified of course) My BPU
car
with stock turbos topped out at 165mph in 5th due to lack of
power
(boost was down) on a totally flat surface. I am sure with
larger
turbos as about 20-25psi, we could see the end of the tach in
6th.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 13:03:03
-0600
From: "Richard Fennell" <
realmstl@home.com>
Subject: Fw:
Team3S: Question regarding my Stealth
When you bough the rebuilt
computer, didn't you get a sheet with a series of
checks?
I don't have
much experience with Mitsubishi, but I've replaced a few
computers in some of
the GM cars I've owned. Every computer came with a
sheet listing what
the ohm readings should be at the various conductors in
the connector(s) that
attach to the computer.
Taking the time to check every wire can help
determine the problem.
Good luck,
Rich
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: <
RANDYGGG@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, November 11, 2001 11:39 AM
Subject: Team3S: Question regarding my
Stealth
> Hi,
> I am replacing the
ignition computer that sits behind the console
where
> the stereo
is. I have the DOHC engine, ES version, 5 speed manual.
My
car
> wouldn't start and the dealer wanted $1,250 for a new
computer. (It
cranked
> but never fired or tried to fire.) I
towed the car home instead and
bought a
> rebuilt one from a parts
house. Car still wouldn't start. I took the
> rebuilt unit
back and got a second rebuilt one. Car started, but ran real
> rough
with very little power, and "check engine" light on. I got about a
>
half a block away and turned around and limped it
home.
> The parts house says the computer is fine,
the dealer is just trying
to
> sell me an expensive computer when I
really have some other problem with
the
> car. The dealer still
says I need a new computer, the reconditioned ones
> almost never work and
you have to go through a bunch of them to find one
that
> does.
>
Any suggestions? I don't know who to believe at this point. (Car
has
about
> 75,000 original miles.)
> Thanks,
> Randy
Graves
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 11:02:15
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Question regarding my Stealth
Hey, Randy,
These cars are
complex enough that it really pays to have a set of the
manuals for doing
diagnostics($60). You'll save way more than their cost.
Get them from
Chrysler/Mopar - the address is in our FAQ Pages (Basics
Section).
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm If you
call ASAP, you'll have them in a
few days.
If you didn't unhook the
battery ground when you did the swap, you may have
glitched the chips as you
installed them and possibly bypassed 'learn mode'
because of the surge.
By now, plugs could be fouled from the rough running
too. I'm assuming
you did the required service at 60k miles!?! If done
correctly and if
the car was never abused, you should be running like new by
now. We'll
figure it out. :-)
Bad timing to ask us Q's on a weekend - everyone
is (hopefully) out and
about. Give us more info and repost tomorrow
AM... I'd stay away from the
dealer for a day or two until a few more
of us give you some feedback.
Good luck!
Forrest
>
Hi,
> I am replacing the ignition computer that
sits behind the console
where the stereo is. I have the DOHC engine, ES
version, 5 speed manual.
My car wouldn't start and the dealer wanted $1,250
for a new computer. (It
cranked but never fired or tried to fire.) I
towed the car home instead and
bought a
rebuilt one from a parts
house. Car still wouldn't start. I took the
rebuilt unit back and
got a second rebuilt one. Car started, but ran real
rough with very
little power, and "check engine" light on. I got about a
half a block
away and turned around and limped it home.
> The
parts house says the computer is fine, the dealer is just trying
to sell me
an expensive computer when I really have some other problem with
the
car. The dealer still says I need a new computer, the
reconditioned
ones almost never work and you have to go through a bunch of
them to find
one that does.
> Any suggestions? I don't know who
to believe at this point. (Car has
about 75,000 original
miles.)
> Thanks,
> Randy Graves
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 15:41:53
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Question regarding my Stealth
What year car is it? Would
this show up in the OBDII diagnostics
computer check?
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
No friggin diagnostics for my car ... :(
-
-----Original Message-----
From:
RANDYGGG@aol.comSent: Sunday, November
11, 2001 12:40
Hi,
I am replacing the
ignition computer that sits behind the console
where
the stereo is.
I have the DOHC engine, ES version, 5 speed manual. My
car
wouldn't
start and the dealer wanted $1,250 for a new computer. (It
cranked
but
never fired or tried to fire.) I towed the car home instead and
bought
a
rebuilt one from a parts house. Car still wouldn't start. I
took the
rebuilt unit back and got a second rebuilt one. Car started,
but ran
real
rough with very little power, and "check engine" light
on. I got about
a
half a block away and turned around and limped it
home.
The parts house says the computer is fine, the
dealer is just trying
to
sell me an expensive computer when I really have
some other problem with
the
car. The dealer still says I need a new
computer, the reconditioned
ones
almost never work and you have to go
through a bunch of them to find one
that
does.
Any
suggestions? I don't know who to believe at this point. (Car has
about
75,000 original miles.)
Thanks,
Randy Graves
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 16:06:59
+0000
From: Chip Greenberg <
c.greenberg@pdn-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: shifter wobble
Hi Folks, while taking a drive this weekend I
noticed the shifter in my 92
Stealth RT tt moves back and forth
considerably in 3rd gear when I
accelerate or let my foot off the gas.
None of the other gears seem to do
this, at least nowhere to this
extent.
am I in for a replacement tranny soon? The car has 100,000
highway miles,
has been well maintained and otherwise runs like a
top.
Chip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 17:38:34
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: shifter wobble
Both of mine do the same thing, probably just
normal Getrash features
W
At 09:06 AM 11/11/01 , Chip Greenberg
wrote:
>my 92
>Stealth RT tt moves back and forth considerably
in 3rd gear when I
>accelerate or let my foot off the
gas.
>Chip
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 19:57:57
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: shifter wobble
Could it also be from the connection to the shift
linkage? At the track
a friend of mine broke the linkage on his 1992
VR-4 (5 speed) and the
cotter pin gave out and the gearshift was not making
the shifting forks
move, essentially. I managed to fix it with a Jumbo
paperclip (better
than new!) and it has worked great since then.
But
while it was off the gearshift could be moved in circles to
anywhere.
Maybe it is something like the shift forks, bushings, shift
linkage, etc.
that is getting worn out and not the tranny itself.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4 6 speed with a little extra connecting rod on the shift
linkage than a 5
speed version
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne
Sent:
Sunday, November 11, 2001 19:39
Both of mine do the same thing,
probably just normal Getrash features
At 09:06 AM 11/11/01 , Chip
Greenberg wrote:
>my 92
>Stealth RT tt moves back and forth
considerably in 3rd gear when I
>accelerate or let my foot off the
gas.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: 11 Nov 2001 17:44:15
-0800
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: CAPS
Jeff:
I would be great if you posted some Good CAPS
information: When I Got a copy of CAPS I couldn't quite figure out
how to use it and I couldn't find any GOOD instructions. Michael Reid was
nice enough to send me a great E-mail with some basic CAPS training. I now
have that posted on my web site:
http://members.aol.com/johnmonnin/13CapsHelp1.htmlJohn
Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com1991 VR-4,
4-bolt main conversion
Original Message Below:
>.......I'm
going to work on writing a basic How-to for CAPS >as well as labeling the
>PNC diagrams I posted. If anyone else has any other >CAPS questions
or
>suggestions, let me know. I'm getting pretty good >with this
thing.......
>Jeff V.
>1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
>jeffv@1nce.com
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 19:24:25
-0700
From: "CHRIS BROWN" <
fasduc@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power Antenna
The power antenna on my '92 Stealth no longer goes
up and down. I can hear
the electric motor running, but the antenna
doesn't move. I am guessing
that the cable that pushes and pull s the
antenna up and down is broken. Is
there a replacement for the cable or
do you have to buy the whole thing as
a unit, motor and all. Any
tips on replacing this stuff?
thanks,
Chris Brown
'92 Stealth
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 21:51:32
-0500
From: "Brian Collins" <
bcturbo@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Slave cylinder stroke distance?
Can someone please tell me what
the approximate stroke distance is on a
slave cylinder when the clutch peddle
has been correctly adjusted? I am
still having some shifting difficulty with
my new 6 speed transmission and I
just wanted to make sure that the clutch is
disengaging completely. I am
getting roughly an inch of travel right now. I
have bleed the lines twice
and adjusted the pushrod on the clutch peddle
almost all the way out but the
shifting is still very hard for most gears and
I still can't get into
reverse at all. I am waiting a new 6 speed shifter
cable mount bracket from
the dealer since I just found out that they are
different on the 5 speeds
but I don't think that will totally solve my
problem. Thanks for any help.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 19:14:27
-0800 (PST)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Power Antenna
You can buy the antenna separately for about
$20 at one of the
discount dealers I list on the Garage Page at my web site.
On the
same page I also have the link below for R&R
instructions.
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/nlucius/n-2-antenna.htmJeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ---
CHRIS BROWN <
fasduc@email.msn.com> wrote:
>
The power antenna on my '92 Stealth no longer goes up and down. I
>
can hear
> the electric motor running, but the antenna doesn't move.
I am
> guessing
> that the cable that pushes and pull s the antenna
up and down is
> broken. Is
> there a replacement for the
cable or do you have to buy the whole
> thing as
> a unit,
motor and all. Any tips on replacing this stuff?
>
>
thanks,
> Chris Brown
> '92 Stealth R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 20:25:21
-0700
From: "Thomas Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
Subject: Team3S: Spark
Plugs
Changing spark plugs looks like it's gonna be a big pain. I
want to do this
once every 100,000 miles. So what are the best plugs
for our cars? I've
heard bad things about split fires, but a few people
seem to swear by them.
I've also heard some good things about the bosch
platinum +4 spark plug.
Any thoughts?
- -T.J. 1992 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 21:38:03
-0600
From: David Allison <
daedel@mac.com>
Subject: Team3S: More
Used car Qs
I found the car I was looking for but it has some minor probs
which I
want to look into replacing or fixing. Its a '94 3000gt Base with
cloth
seats and 81000 miles, nothing special.
The power antenna was
one thing but thanks to the post I just read it
seems pretty easy. Thanks
Jeff!
Another is the headlight on the drivers side. The glass (I
think its
glass) has a crack running through the middle which, while not
harming
anything, just annoys me. I believe a few days ago someone said a
replacement would cost somewhere in the nature of $300? Just checking on
that.
The car also has a few nicks in the paint that I would like to
get
out... how hard is it to get my hands on some Carcass Red
paint?
The passenger seat has a slight tear along the seem facing
the door,
how hard is this to get repaired?
Also, the guy smoked so
that smell pretty much pervades everything, but
the consensus between my
friends and I is that this should not be too
hard to get out with some good
carpet deodorizer and that stuff you
spray into your climate control
intakes. Will this do it pretty much on
our cars?
That's about all of
the damage I can think of on this car. Engine looks
spectacular and it runs
really well. He just replaced the clutch a few
months ago and I believe said
he had the transmission rebuilt about a
year ago. The water pump in addition
to everything else was replaced in
the 60k service.
Oh yeah, and he
just put on (this is what he said) 4 brand new tires on
the stock NA 94
wheels for a total of 500 dollars. I'm coming to all of
you asking about how
much I should pay. He said about $8,500, but I'd
like some opinions from
people who know these cars so much better than I
do.
Thanks for all
of your help!
- -David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 21:37:58
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark Plugs
Good luck on the 100K mile thing... its really
not that hard... I've got
it down to about 15 minutes total on a non-turbo,
so say 25 minutes on a
turbo due to the extra IC lines to
remove....
If you do plan on this, the factory plugs are the only ones
that will
give you a prayer of running that long. Those are the NGK
Platinum
plugs... all others will last 5 - 15K miles...
-
-Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Thomas Jeys
Sent: Sunday,
November 11, 2001 9:25 PM
To: Team 3s
Subject: Team3S: Spark
Plugs
Changing spark plugs looks like it's gonna be a big pain. I
want to do
this
once every 100,000 miles. So what are the best plugs
for our cars?
I've
heard bad things about split fires, but a few people
seem to swear by
them.
I've also heard some good things about the bosch
platinum +4 spark plug.
Any thoughts?
- -T.J. 1992 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 22:35:18
-0700
From: "Moe Prasad" <
mprasad01@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs
Cody is right.
The first time is a
bitch. The second time it will take you about 20
minutes to 30
minutes. It does help to have two people when working with
the
plenium.
Make sure you cover the manifold before you drop something in to
it.
Rgds
Moe
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas
Jeys" <
tj@jeys.net>
To: "Team 3s"
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, November 11, 2001 8:25 PM
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plugs
>
Changing spark plugs looks like it's gonna be a big pain. I want to
do
this
> once every 100,000 miles. So what are the best plugs
for our cars? I've
> heard bad things about split fires, but a few
people seem to swear by
them.
> I've also heard some good things about
the bosch platinum +4 spark plug.
> Any thoughts?
>
> -T.J.
1992 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 00:50:38
-0500
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: More Used car Qs
Sounds like a rare find. All our cars have
something wrong with them
(chips, dents, rust, etc.) but I sure hope all the
expensive things are
working (timing belt, water pump, A/C condenser, tranny,
differentials,
clutch, etc.). Good luck.
This is what the list
is for though. I know on the Team3S there was
something sort of a what
price to pay for what car if you haven't seen
it. Give us the status as
to how everything is going on the car.
Welcome to the list.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: David
Allison
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2001 22:38
I found the car I
was looking for but it has some minor probs which I
want to look into
replacing or fixing. Its a '94 3000gt Base with cloth
seats and 81000 miles,
nothing special.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 11 Nov 2001 23:58:57
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Six speed tranny for sale
I just saw on the Talon list that Dave
Buscher has a 6-speed for sale.
Here's what he said:
>Anyone
knowing someone that needs a 6 speed Stealth transmission that I
bought years
ago and just came across again get ahold of me. I will
entertain any
reasonable offer on it.
David Buschur
President
Buschur Racing,
Inc.
The4Bangr <
The4Bangr@aol.com>
If anyone needs
a tranny, go for it.
Rich/old poop
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 10:58:52
+0200
From: "Oleg" <
Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More
Getrag parts info, EU CAPS vs US CAPS
Hello,
I posted JDM CAPS in
www.bearshare.comThere are 5
files,
JDMsetup.zip
JDM1.zip
JDM2.zip
JDM3.zip
JDM4.zip
You
can take it. Remember, JDM caps is other program! Please save and instal
it
to new directories!
Next 1-3 days I'll post 5 and 6 speed Getrag parts prices
from my local
Mitsu dealership.
Regards,
Oleg Reznik
www.3000gt.lv> I got an interesting
email earlier from Mark Wendlandt. He took some of
the
> PNC
codes from the diagrams I uploaded and fed them into the US CAPS
>
database. The diagrams don't show up, but the part numbers do!
Here's
the
> step by step process for doing this in the US CAPS
program.
>
> 1>Select Vehicle Name Code of 53H
>
>
2>Select Model of Z16A (4WD/4WS) or Z15A (4WD/No 4WS)
>
>
3>Double click on the Classification box and select your model from
the
> resulting menu screen
>
> 4>Enter the relevant PNC
code from the illustrations on my site (I'll
label
> them as soon as
possible. For now, use 22546A to try this out) in the PNC
> field under
the [Part Name Code Input] section.
>
> 5>Press the PNC button on
the toolbar
>
> 6>This will show a screen telling you this
transaxle is not services.
Press
> OK
>
> 7>Another
screen will come up showing you the model year variations. This
>
will show you all applicable part numbers for each year of that model
code
> (from step 2)
>
> The few numbers I have double checked
against the Euro CAPS so far have
come
> up correct. This saves
people from having to go through the 130 MB
download
> for the Euro
version, as well as the hassles of changing the database.
Many
> thanks
for Mark for pointing this out. :)
>
> I'm going to work on writing
a basic How-to for CAPS as well as labeling
the
> PNC diagrams I
posted. If anyone else has any other CAPS questions or
>
suggestions, let me know. I'm getting pretty good with this
thing.
>
> Now if anyone can forward me the JDM CAPS, I would be
eternally grateful
:D
>
> Jeff V.
> 1991 Stealth ESX Twin
Turbo
>
jeffv@1nce.com*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 04:24:58
-0600
From: RJM <
rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
I agree as I have 95,000 miles on what I believe are
the original plugs on
my 3000gt SL and am putting in the platinum NGK's again
even though it runs
great. Why rock the cradle? Don't forget to
change out the spark plug
ignition wires too.
Bob
cody
wrote:
> Good luck on the 100K mile thing... its really not that
hard... I've got
> it down to about 15 minutes total on a non-turbo, so
say 25 minutes on a
> turbo due to the extra IC lines to
remove....
>
> If you do plan on this, the factory plugs are the
only ones that will
> give you a prayer of running that long. Those
are the NGK Platinum
> plugs... all others will last 5 - 15K
miles...
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
> Of Thomas Jeys
> Sent:
Sunday, November 11, 2001 9:25 PM
> To: Team 3s
> Subject: Team3S:
Spark Plugs
>
> Changing spark plugs looks like it's gonna be a big
pain. I want to do
> this
> once every 100,000 miles. So
what are the best plugs for our cars?
> I've
> heard bad things
about split fires, but a few people seem to swear by
> them.
> I've
also heard some good things about the bosch platinum +4 spark plug.
> Any
thoughts?
>
> -T.J. 1992 3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 03:42:33
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: Sears Point Race Report Page & Pictures are up!
We did a
quick write-up for the list last week, but there were close to 200
photos
that had to be arranged before publishing them to the web. There
were a
also a bunch that had to be color-corrected, since a cheapie lab blew
the
processing of our film. ;-( They are finally on our website.
Read all
about it in the Race Reports section of the FAQ Pages:
www.Team3S.com/RaceReports.htm
, (the top entry for Sears Point 10/27/01),
or you can go right to the
photos:
www.Team3S.com/SPIR102701.htmEnjoy!
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 09:04:29
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Getrag internal diagrams and PNC codes uploaded
Can I change
out an 18 spline output shaft for a 25 spline shaft, assuming I
also change
the receiver in the transfer case to 25 spline?
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Joe Gonsowski [SMTP:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
>
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 3:54 PM
> To: Jeff VanOrsdal
> Cc:
Team3s Tech List; MI 3SI Mailing List
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag
internal diagrams and PNC codes uploaded
>
> Sweet, is there a
Mitsubishi number for PNC 22632? This is the 5 speed
> VCU
>
(should be a listing for an 18 spline and a 25 spline output shaft).
Also
> check
> on all the synchros at your earliest
convenience. Question is, even if we
> get a
> Mitusbishi PN,
can they be ordered in the US, Europe, Japan, or anywhere?,
> time
>
will tell.
>
> Thanks,
> Joe G.
>
> Jeff
VanOrsdal wrote:
>
> > Thanks to Oleg, we finally have some
information on the transaxles we
> all
> > know and love.
I've uploaded the diagrams for the 5 and 6 spd AWD
> > transaxles to my
website. I have not yet started converting all the PNC
> > codes
to Mitsu part numbers, but I figured even the diagrams alone would
>
be
> > useful.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 07:11:15
-0800 (PST)
From: glenn amy <
glenn_amy@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More Used car Qs (smoker)
I've had good luck getting smoke smell
out with Clorox
Fresh Care. It comes in a window-cleaner type
spray
bottle.
A good carpet shampoo, wiping down all surfaces,
and
cleaning the windows would help too. Buy a
new
lighter.
Get as much fresh air as possible in the car.
Park/Drive with the windows down whenever possible.
Glenn
'93
VR-4
- --- David Allison <
daedel@mac.com> wrote:
> I found the
car I was looking for but it has some
> minor probs which I
> want
to look into replacing or fixing. Its a '94
> 3000gt Base with cloth
> seats and 81000 miles, nothing special.
>
> The power
antenna was one thing but thanks to the
> post I just read it
>
seems pretty easy. Thanks Jeff!
>
> Another is the headlight
on the drivers side. The
> glass (I think its
> glass) has a crack
running through the middle which,
> while not harming
> anything,
just annoys me. I believe a few days ago
> someone said a
>
replacement would cost somewhere in the nature of
> $300? Just checking on
> that.
>
> The car also has a few nicks in the paint that
I
> would like to get
> out... how hard is it to get my hands on
some
> Carcass Red paint?
>
> The passenger seat
has a slight tear along the
> seem facing the door,
> how hard is
this to get repaired?
>
> Also, the guy smoked so that smell pretty
much
> pervades everything, but
> the consensus between my friends
and I is that this
> should not be too
> hard to get out with some
good carpet deodorizer and
> that stuff you
> spray into your
climate control intakes. Will this
> do it pretty much on
> our
cars?
>
> That's about all of the damage I can think of on
>
this car. Engine looks
> spectacular and it runs really well. He
just
> replaced the clutch a few
> months ago and I believe said he
had the
> transmission rebuilt about a
> year ago. The water pump
in addition to everything
> else was replaced in
> the 60k
service.
>
> Oh yeah, and he just put on (this is what he said)
4
> brand new tires on
> the stock NA 94 wheels for a total of 500
dollars.
> I'm coming to all of
> you asking about how much I
should pay. He said
> about $8,500, but I'd
> like some opinions
from people who know these cars
> so much better than I
>
do.
>
> Thanks for all of your help!
>
>
-David
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 07:56:51
-0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: More Used car Qs
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "David
Allison" <
daedel@mac.com>
-
------------snip-------------
> ...the guy smoked so that smell pretty
much pervades everything, but the
consensus between my friends and I is
that this should not be too hard to
get out with some good carpet
deodorizer and that stuff you spray into your
climate control intakes.
Will this do it pretty much on our cars?
> Oh yeah, and he just put on
(this is what he said) 4 brand new tires on
the stock NA 94 wheels for a
total of 500 dollars. I'm coming to all of you
asking about how much I should
pay. He said about $8,500, but I'd like some
opinions from people who know
these cars so much better than I do.
> Thanks for all of your
help!
> -David
- ---------------------------
Our Price Page is
the very first line in the Basics Section of the Team3S
FAQ Pages
Index:
www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm The
price sounds about right -
"Average mileage" is 12k/year (84k for a '94), so
you're pretty close there,
and with the 60k done, you should be in pretty
good shape. Hard to say what
to pay, since you're asking folks who just
*love* these cars... You can
probably get it cheaper, but in good
shape, it's probably worth more to many
of us. And it IS the best year
to own, IMO. With reasonable care, it will
give you many years of
pleasure.
As to removing smoke or other odors, there's a fabulous but
VERY expensive
totally organic product available only in (minimum) quantities
of 5 pints
from Neutron Industries called NI-712 Odor Eliminator. It
can clear even a
cigar room from any smell in under 5 seconds with one
(non-aerosol) manual
'spritz'. It's so powerful, you only have to buy a
'kit' every 7 years or
so, but it's ~$140 bucks. Cheaper than Glade if
you do the math ($3/can for
1 Glade per month will cost $252 for 7
yrs). I'm just now placing my 4th
order since 1978(!)
www.neutronindustries.comBest,
Forrest
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 10:00:28
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
mraicu@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Top speed
Top speed on 94 TT was 169 mph (272 kph) in 5th gear.
After AVC-R (14.7
psi) and K&N mods the car did 171 mph (275 kph) in 5th
gear. On the
second run it was foggy outside, so that may be part of
the reason why
the top speed was not a bit higher. Both runs were done
on a 6 mile
flat and straight stretch of road, which basically means that for
the
past few miles the car did not accelerate any more. The speed
was
verified with a GPS, and is accurate. The AVC-R kept the highest
speed
in memory. Some other aspects of the run: two people in car both
times
which increased weight unnecessarily.
Also, Jim W. from Germany
reports a very similar top speed (171 mph I
believe) on the autobahn with the
same mods my brother and I have on our
cars.
- -MIHAI-
95 Red
VR4
- -John-
94 Pearl Yellow TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 10:08:25
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Used car Qs
>> ...the guy smoked so that smell
pretty much pervades everything, but the
>consensus between my
friends and I is that this should not be too hard to
>get out with
some good carpet deodorizer and that stuff you spray into
your
>climate control intakes. Will this do it pretty much on our
cars?
I bought a 92 Eagle Talon that was owned by a smoker.
A few
shots of Meguiar's Car Odor Eliminator took the smoke smell out of
the
carpets, seats, and other fabric surfaces. Worked for me.
Rich
94
VR4
92 Talon TSi
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 08:26:16
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Getrag internal diagrams and PNC codes uploaded
The answer is yes the
shaft can be changed --- as to whether you can do it is
another question. I
requires the removal and disassembly/assembly of the trans.
If I were going
to change the output shaft I would buy the hardened aftermarket
version
rather than the stock item, further I would not change the shaft if it
ain't
broken.
Jim
Berry
========================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Willis, Charles E. <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>
Can I change out an 18 spline output shaft for a 25 spline shaft, assuming
I
> also change the receiver in the transfer case to 25 spline?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Joe Gonsowski
[SMTP:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
> > Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001
3:54 PM
> >
> > Sweet, is there a Mitsubishi number for PNC
22632? This is the 5 speed
> > VCU
> > (should be a
listing for an 18 spline and a 25 spline output shaft). Also
> >
check
> > on all the synchros at your earliest convenience.
Question is, even if we
> > get a
> > Mitusbishi PN, can they
be ordered in the US, Europe, Japan, or anywhere?,
> > time
>
> will tell.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Joe G.
>
>
> > Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks
to Oleg, we finally have some information on the transaxles we
> >
all
> > > know and love. I've uploaded the diagrams for the 5
and 6 spd AWD
> > > transaxles to my website. I have not yet
started converting all the PNC
> > > codes to Mitsu part numbers,
but I figured even the diagrams alone would
> > be
> > >
useful.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 10:35:07
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: New track opens up in SW Iowa
Here's a report on the latest road
course available to us open trackers.
Maybe we should hold a midwest
gathering there at an event next year. It's
very close to Omaha, just south
of I80 and west of I29.
Easy for folks from Colorado, Missouri, Minnesota,
Wisconsin, Iowa, (and
Texas?) to get to.
Rich
The Slow ol'
Farmer Dude (Jeff Lacina) writes:
"If you build it, they will
come..."
After yesterday, November 11, 2001, we are not JUST talking
about the "Field
of Dreams" baseball movie... now the motorsport enthusiast
have our OWN
"dream track" in a SW Iowa corn field...
More than 120
vehicles took to the ALL NEW 2.23 mile, 15 turn Mid America
Motorplex (MAM)
on Sunday for a chance to experience what will truly be an
AWESOME driving
facility. The day was broken down into "Parade Laps" (pace
car controlled low
speed laps), and four different "Touring Groups", Imports
& Domestic
"Economy Class" (for the lower HP cars), Domestic & Import
"Performacne
Class" (for the higher HP cars) and a combined "Motorcycle and
shifter kart"
run group.
The base coats of asphalt are down and the layout of the track
complete. The
final "high-tech" top coat of aslphalt is being laid today
(Monday, 11/12).
No apex curbs... no marked apexes or track out and a pretty
significant drop
off at the edge of the track meant that everyone had to mind
their Ps &
Qs... which they did...for the most part... and... how does 75
degrees under
bright sunny skies sound?? AWESOME day it was...
If you
want to see some pics from yesterday's event, go to
http://www.midamericamotorplex.com
and click on the "pictures" button. I
will be posting some in-car video on my
web site as well in the near
future... I'll let y'all know when it is posted.
Our local Mustang club had
no less than 15 folks show up... on less than TWO
DAYS NOTICE!!! We'll be
posting pics on our web site as well,
http://www.mustangclubofcentraliowa.org
soon...
Personally, I logged almost 70 miles of on-track driving in the
slow ol'
farmer dude Mustang (felt RIGHT at home whizzin' around in the
middle of a
corn field!!!). This track will TRULY have something for
everyone! The 2,222
ft "west straight" allows for BIG speed (I was seein'
high 120s, low 130s),
while three different "S" combinations make for some
"thinking" driving...
three turns are increasing radi sweepers and require a
LOT of patience to
drive "correctly". This will be a GREAT track to teach on
and offers
something for both the novice and advanced drivers.
A HUGE
"thank you" needs to go out to Mark Tichner and Aaron Johnson (and a
HOST of
others) for taking this "idea" from paper to asphalt (in LESS than a
year I
might add) and providing us ALL with a new place where we will be
able to
come out and enjoy our driving hobby.
There is STILL a LOT of work to be
done (paddock paving, control building,
classroom/concession facitlities,
worker stations, etc, etc. (the first
"official" event is scheduled for early
April 2002. But if the track is any
clue of things to come, I hope you ALL
consider a trip to SW Iowa sometime
in your driving career and get the chance
to enjoy MAM for yourself.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 09:02:30
-0800
From: "Kai Langendoen" <
kail@colubs.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Power Antenna
Chris-
This is a VERY common problem and you should
be able to find info on it via
3SI.org. I'm already on my third antenna
since I bought the car three years
ago.
I recommend you use your CD
player or tape player until you get it fixed. I
burned up my first
power antenna motor by letting it "push" the broken
cable. Had to
replace the entire unit then.
Fixing this problem can be quite simple, or
quite involved, depending on
where the break is at. With the antenna
down, remove the retaining nut on
the outside of the car (has some grooves in
it, but I recommend using a pair
of pliers with cloth or tape on them to make
the grip "soft"). Next, turn
on the radio and as the antenna is getting
pushed, guide it out of the
housing. It may require a slight tug at the
end to free it up (some come
out easy, some have a lot of built up, dried
grease on them that cements
them in place, which requires more
tugging).
Compare the old plastic cable to the new one (which I assume
you bought from
Tallahassee Mitsu, or the like, for a considerable
discount). If the break
is near the top, you might be able to get a
pair of needle nose pliers on
the rest of the cable and get it out. If
the break is near the bottom, then
you've got to remove the paneling in your
trunk, take out the motor, and
remove the extra cable from the
housing.
Putting the new one in is easy. Position the teeth of the
cable toward the
trunk and insert (radio power on). When it reaches the
gears, rotate the
teeth so they face the back of the car. Turn off the
radio, and guide the
antenna back in. It may not go in all the way the
first time. Put the
retaining nut back on... not too tight... and turn
the power on and off
until the antenna fully retracts.
Like I said,
more details are available via websites.
Good luck.
Kai
'92 Stealth
RT TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of CHRIS BROWN
Sent: Sunday,
November 11, 2001 6:24 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Power Antenna
The power antenna on my '92 Stealth no longer goes
up and down. I can hear
the electric motor running, but the antenna
doesn't move. I am guessing
that the cable that pushes and pull s the
antenna up and down is broken. Is
there a replacement for the cable or
do you have to buy the whole thing as
a unit, motor and all. Any
tips on replacing this stuff?
thanks,
Chris Brown
'92 Stealth
R/T
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Nov 2001 11:52:42
-0600
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Getrag internal diagrams and PNC codes uploaded
You would
also need to change the bell housing and viscous coupling unit. I
talked to Frank(Kormex) about this and it sounded like I'd be better off
finding a 25 spline trans and xfer case.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>Can
I change out an 18 spline output shaft for a 25 spline shaft, assuming
>I
>also change the receiver in the transfer case to 25
spline?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT &
Stealth V1
#671
***************************************