team3s
Monday, May 21
2001
Volume 01 : Number
498
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 May 2001 11:32:54 -0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <
atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel management question.
Hey Michael
I just had 550cc injectors
installed. I am using the stock 2nd gen turbos @
15 psi. I also have fresh
air going to my K&N filter together with a high
flow exhaust. Without any
fuel management my car is running very rich (black
smoke from the exhaust)
and I lost power from the low RPM. (Lots of gas)
More than 5000 RPM the
things are getting better and the car is keeping the
15 psi all the way to
the 7000 RPM (3rd gear 115mph). I am ordering now the
APEX-I AFC and
EGT gauge. I been advised that the particular controller
(APEX-I) can manage
the fuel fine but Vs the ARC is more difficult to be
adjusted. Connect a
digital voltmeter to your oxygen sensor and also EGT
gauge seems to be the
best way to adjust the thing.
I will keep the list informed on
this.
Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Michael Bulaon
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 3:04 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Fuel management question.
I have 550cc injectors on the way. Only
thing I can really afford now for
fuel management is something along the
lines of an Apex'i SAFC.
I was just wondering if I got an ARC2 later on,
would I be able to use my
SAFC with the ARC2 or would the ARC2 make my SAFC
obsolete?
I know that an AFC would work with the VPC, but I'm leaning
more towards the
ARC2.
Thanks in advance to all
responses.
Michael Bulaon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 11:39:33
-0400
From: "Michael Bulaon" <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel management question.
Yes, that's what I've heard too.
However, I wasn't trying to compare the AFC
to the ARC2. I need some sort of
fuel controller now really can't afford an
ARC2, so I'm going with an AFC for
now. My only concern was when I
eventually do get my ARC2, would I be able to
use my AFC with it.
I posted this same question on 3SI.ORG as well. I
received one response
saying that the AFC does work well with the
ARC2.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=d7bada7d1f6ac0d6771c127c730800cd&
threadid=29577
Regards,
Michael
Bulaon
- -----Original Message-----
From: Nickolaos M. Sgouros
[mailto:atenag@coqui.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 2:33 PM
To: Team3s;
Michael Bulaon
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel management question.
Hey
Michael
I just had 550cc injectors installed. I am using the stock 2nd gen
turbos @
15 psi. I also have fresh air going to my K&N filter together
with a high
flow exhaust. Without any fuel management my car is running very
rich (black
smoke from the exhaust) and I lost power from the low RPM. (Lots
of gas)
More than 5000 RPM the things are getting better and the car is
keeping the
15 psi all the way to the 7000 RPM (3rd gear 115mph). I am
ordering now the
APEX-I AFC and EGT gauge. I been advised that the
particular controller
(APEX-I) can manage the fuel fine but Vs the ARC is
more difficult to be
adjusted. Connect a digital voltmeter to your oxygen
sensor and also EGT
gauge seems to be the best way to adjust the thing.
I
will keep the list informed on this.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 09:09:07
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: team3s V1 #497
I have seen them on eBay a lot recently, but I
have yet to hear any good
things about them. Stick to the Porterfield's for
performance rotors, I set
up a 20% discount for our clubs through them, and
they are the only ones no
one has complained about yet!
www.porterfieldbrakes.com or
www.racebrakes.com should be the URL. Make
sure you get them cryo treated.
Matt
94 RT TT
Date: Fri, 18 May
2001 20:34:00 -0500
From: "Dale T. Kroetz" <
kroetz@mvn.net>
Subject: Team3S: Bradi
rotors
Anybody ever heard of this brand of rotors? Bradi, says made in
Italy.
Dale T. Kroetz
kroetz@mvn.net*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 12:17:34
-0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel management question.
> Connect a digital voltmeter to
your oxygen sensor
> and also EGT gauge seems to be the best way
to
> adjust the thing.
Also consider an analog voltmeter to help
set cruising fuel trims - its
pretty tough to see the "sweeping" of the
voltages during cruise on a
digital voltmeter. Either that, or one of
the multi-LED A/F ratio meters so
you can more easily see what the fuel
system is doing during cruise.
There's a reasonably narrow band of
adjustments where cruising fuel is
actually set well.
- -Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 20:28:42
+0200
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AVC-R at altitude
I posted a note about this last summer when I
first noticed the problem, but
I didn't get much feedback. If anyone
has an idea, please let me know!
I have a '94 TT with basic engine mods
(see signature below). The 1st gen.
SAVC-R reaches my boost setting
quickly and holds it rock-steady every time,
EXCEPT at high altitude!
As I ascend, the boost begins "sticking" at 7 psi
(as if the boost controller
was turned off) before abruptly rocketing up to
my setting. The delay
increases the higher I go, and eventually boost never
budges from 7
psi. The behavior reverses as I come back down the other
side... it
will again achieve the max boost setting after a delay at 7 psi,
and finally
returns to normal near the bottom, sweeping smoothly through the
boost
range.
This makes absolutely no sense to me. A boost controller
does nothing but
monitor boost pressure and modulate the wastegates to
achieve the boost
limit. At higher elevations, reduced air density may
affect boost behavior,
but so what? Why would the controller open the
wastegates prematurely or
fail to modulate them at all under such
circumstances?
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 20 May 2001 13:54:02
-0700
From: "rick pierce" <
rick.pierce@alphadog.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question Re: Waste Gate Control Solenoid Valve
Hi
everyone,
I finally redid my Vacuum lines - boy were they screwed up
(compared to the
92 Turbo Stock setup). I finally got all the EGR stuff
hooked up properly
as well as everything else - except I discovered what led
to all of this in
the first place. Evidently when the shop dropped in
the motor they broke
off the hose connection on the rear turbo air inlet that
leads to the inlet
side of the Waste Gate Control Solenoid Valve (White top
hose on a 92), so
they plugged the Boost hose into the top of the valve and
the rest of the
outlet hoses are correctly hooked up to the waste gate
actuators (with one
connection plugged on the "h" valve). My question
is How does the WGCSV
work?
It looks to me it basically bleeds off a
small amount of boost until the
appropriate pressure differential is reached
at which point it closes and
directs full boost to the waste gates. So
by having direct boost to the
inlet side will this cause overboost, under
boost, slow spooling, or what?
I did look into the service manual but
couldn't find a true description of
how the valve works. Sorry for the
long post, but I just want to make sure
I don't screw anything up. Any
help will be appreciated.
PS is there an easy way to rectify this, please
let me know.
Thanks Rick - 92 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 05:38:01
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: VR-4 Grinding in 2nd and 3rd
What was Jack's '98 Gertag deal and
could it be done again ?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim
Matthews [mailto:jim@the-matthews.com]
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 11:27
PM
To: anthonymelillo; Team3S
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR-4 Grinding in 2nd
and 3rd
I just bought a new 2nd gear synchro blocking ring
from
http://www.kormextrans.com for
$125 (I have a full set of synchros for my
6-speed from Jack's '98 Getrag
deal, but I thought I'd save those and take
advantage of Kormex's
stock). My 2nd gear synchro got bad at right around
60k miles, but I've
managed to drive another 23k miles by pausing between
shifts. Good
luck!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Cryoed rotors, R4S pads,
braided lines, red calipers
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171
mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 10:00:47
-0400
From: Marc Jonathan Jacobs <
Marc.Jacobs@usa.alcatel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: team3s V1 #496
Don't buy Centerforce! The stock clutch
lasted 92K miles. My
Centerforce lasted 18K miles before
slipping. I don't drag race, I
don't autocross, I don't roadrace, I
don't race - YET!
Stock clutch is fine, I ordered mine through
Mitsupartsdirect.com
(clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing) for $200
with their
April-May promotion. I also bought a generic import clutch
alignment
tool for $22 at CarQuest.
> Date: Fri, 18 May 2001
19:29:26 -0500
> From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Questions 2
>
> > Now I have one
more question for the gurus
> > out there. What clutch is recommended?
My
> > car is mainly stock now, but I plan on
> > getting a
boost controller, some exhause
> > etc this summer, so I will want
something
> > that is streetable, but sturdy.
>
> If you
aren't into tranny-breaking launches and you aren't going to be drag
>
racing much then I'd say go with another stock clutch. They last
pretty
> long and grip good for mild to moderately upgraded cars.
>
> If you feel that you might take the car to more horsepower than just
boost
> controller and exhaust then maybe consider an ACT clutch.
I've got one in
> my car and it is working really well. Some people
also like Centerforce.
> RPS is "iffy" with quality control issues -
unless you enjoy spending more
> money to install replacement clutches I'd
avoid those. Some people get
> lucky, some people don't.
There's lots of information and opinions in the
> list archives about
clutches.
>
> - -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
-
--
Marc J. Jacobs '94 Blue VR-4
xDSL Hardware Development
Alcatel,
USA (919) 850-6386
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 21 May 2001 09:47:39
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt change *time* interval?
I know it's been discussed ad
nauseam here that timing belts get changed at
60K, and that the Nike slogan
applies. However, I looked through the
service manual and it makes no
mention of a *time* interval to change the
belt for low-mileage cars.
I've heard that you should change it after 5
years or 60K, whichever comes
first, but I can't find any actual
documentation to that effect.
So - say you only drive 30,000 in 5 years -
still change the belt? Is
the replacement due mainly to mechanical wear,
age, or both?
Thanks!
- --Erik
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#498
*********************