team3s Wednesday,
February 28 2001 Volume 01
: Number
422
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 27 Feb 2001 15:39:03 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock boost solenoid - To bypass, or not to
bypass...
>> That's an incorrect location for a restriction-type
boost
>> controller.
> Who said it is a restriction type
boost controller ?
The original poster (sorry, forgot who you were!)
mentioned that it was a
spring-ball style controller being used and not a
bleeder style.
>> because of the simplicity of its design. If
an electronic
>> controller's solenoid valve sticks open, you are in
just
>> as much trouble. ;-)
> With respect, this is
wrong. If this happens then all
> pressure goes to the wastegate
actuators and only 6 psi
> will produced ! I doubt that this is trouble
:-)
Ooops, you caught me on that one! I meant stuck
closed.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 14:21:10
-0800
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Magnecor Wires
Greetings all,
Can someone tell me where is
the best place(price wise) to get a set of
Magnecor wires
from?
Justin
92 TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:01:07
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <
john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Security
I had a very similar system on my Talon TSi. I
got it installed by a small security vendor here in San Bernardino county and it
worked great. It's a similar idea, but instead of keys I ran a small
keychain chip across a laser eye that was covered by a small velcro patch.
The system really works too because (at least mine) was installed up and behind
the engine so the wires couldn't be cut from simply going underneath the car or
lifting the hood (without some serious work and some skinny arms/long
fingers). I got mine installed for around $250 I believe and it was WELL
WORTH IT. I'm actually going to have it installed my 3000GT VR-4 very
soon. Any Mitsubishi dealership (at least here in southern california)
offers a very similar system as well for about the same price. If you can
get it, I say go for it.
John
1994 3000GT VR-4
Get your
free e24/7 email at
http://www.e247.comSend & receive large
files with 100MB of storage
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 17:07:31
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Magnecor Wires
At 03:21 PM 2/27/01 , Maupin, Justin
wrote:
>Can someone tell me where is the best place(price wise) to get a
set of
>Magnecor wires from?
NGK wires fit better, are cheaper,
and are readily available @ most local
Import parts stores. I've been using
them for years without any
problems.....I think they are
8mm....
Wayne
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 19:28:17
-0500
From: Rick <
melvin@gamewood.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
I just got Falken's for the T/T.Good price
and I like the look.As you're the
first I've seen with them,what do you
think?So far I'm happy with mine, and
would like to know if you have had any
problems.Thanks
RICK
'91 Red Base
'91 Red R/T T/T??
'92 Blue R/T T/T
Stealths
Mihai Raicu wrote:
> Chuck,
>
> Merrit
noticed from firsthand experience that shaving reduces the heat
>
generated by the tires. When I boought my Falken FK-451 245/35 18
(Y-186
> mph rated) tires, I talked to a Falken Tech and he told me that
most of the
> heat is generated from tire flexing. There is also the
intuitive source of
> heat: friction of tire with road. Therefore,
the Mitsu manual stating to
> inflate tires an additional 6 psi all around
(I need to look up the exact
> number) for extended driving above 100 mph
makes sense. The tech told me
> that the reason Mitsu requires that,
is to reduce sidewall/rubber flexing as
> it will happen quicker and more
violently @ 100+ mph than @ 40 mph. So, the
> bottom line is, if you
were to do a top speed run with 32 psi and one with
> 40 psi, your tire
temps would be lower in the later scenario.
>
> The tech also
mentioned that there is a chart available in Europe (due to
> the
Autoband) that lists various guidelines for increased tire pressures
>
according to different speeds. He suggested, that the new tire
encoding
> system was pushed by the Germans due to tire failures on the
Autoband. The
> system I am reffering to is:
>
> Z=149
mph
> w=168 mph
> Y=186 mph
>
> As you guys probably
know, the old system was Z=149+ mph, which made
> everyone wonder if an
old Z rated tire was suitable for a top speed run in a
> TT/VR4 @ 169+
mph.
>
> There is a standard chart out there of all these tire
pressure
> reccomendations at various high speeds. If any European
members have seen
> this chart or can find it, I'm sure we would all like
to see it. Does
> anyone know what I'm talking about? Does
anyone have this chart?
>
> PS. One question: My tire
MAX pressure is rated @ 51 psi. This means that
> once the tire is
as hot as it's going to get, I cannot exceed 51 psi,
> correct? I
think I'm running 42/39 psi.
>
>
-MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu> 95 Red VR4
>
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
>
------------------------------------
>
> Also notice that shaving
tires also reduces the thickness of rubber
> available for wear, meaning
they need to be replaced more often. According
> to the blurb, less
heat can be retained by a shaved tire, so the tires run
> cooler.
That is really counter-intuitive. If the main source of heat in
>
the tire is friction between the contact patch and the road, rather than
>
internal heat generated by flexion of the rubber, and a shaved tire
has
> less mass, the same amount of heat will cause the temperature of the
tire to
> be HIGHER, assuming the ability of the tire to get rid of heat
is the same
> (same surface area).
>
> As long as I am the one
paying for my tires, I don't plan to shave anything
> off, except by
braking and turning.
>
> Chuck
> ---------------
> From:
Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>
>
I thought that too. But when I corded two Kumhos after ONE event, I
ordered
> the next two shaved. Damn if it didn't work. They shaved down
that big fat
> outer shoulder and the tires have been wearing equally
every since.
>
> Rich
> -------------------
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:18:21
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Pressures
Steve,
I too am sad I'll
miss John C. at Road Atlanta ... as he lives 10 miles
from me and I could use
the vacation. Anyway, I had mine out to the small
local track (Nelson
Ledges in Ohio) and am set for two Driving Events (DE)
this year at Mid-Ohio
in April and Watkins Glen in May.
As for pressures ... pump them
up higher than street and close to the max
for recommendation. As an
Engineer I know for a fact the tires have about a
2.5 factor of safety (fs)
as was shown in in the Wilderness tires on the
Explorers (they could
withstand up to nearly 100 psi before bursting and the
normal max was around
40 psi).
But the shoe polish is the easiest way because it shows
the wear for the
entire time out there - a pyrometer shows just the last few
turns of
temperature. Of course, as long as you drive consistently the
shoe polish
method works. Also don't forget to check for "chunking" or
whatever it is
called when there is a build-up of rubber on the edge of the
treads. At
Nelson Ledges, Turn 13, it is a sharp, tightening,
right-hander that chunks
the tires if taken incorrectly or too fast as the
tires bounce across the
track and you end up drifting to the outside. I
tried this a few laps and
saw a build-up or ridge on the outside edge of each
tread block. Pressure
was either too high or I was running it too
hard.
And for AutoX I learned a trick of pumping up the rear
tires to 5 psi
higher than the front. This is to help persuade the back
to kick out in a
slow-speed turn. I haven't tried this on a road course
yet. Not sure what
would happen. But I run somewhere around Rich
and Chuck at around 40 front
and 35 rear (about a 4-6 psi difference front to
rear is advisable for now
... thanks Rich and John). That is with 17"
rims and Yoko A-032 255/40/17
tires so your results may vary slightly (thanks
for those wheels, Rich).
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 getting setup for road
racing
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Lasher [
mailto:s_lasher@bellsouth.net]
Sent:
Monday, February 26, 2001 13:51
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Pressures
Wow, that's a good bit higher than I was
running. I'll try higher
pressure's in two weeks at Talladega (I'm
really Sorry I'll miss
John at Road Atlanta). I can't go too high,
because the tires are rated at
44 psi. Maybe 36-38?
-
-Steve
'92 VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:43:07
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Ordering OEM Parts
Roger,
Congrats on finding good
service. We paid a lot for our cars ... we only
deserve it.
As
for Tallahassee ... I posted once before that two former employees
were
sacked and my emails were responded to immediately about receiving
Cordia
mudflaps instead of ones for my VR-4. I received great service
once this
was cleared up (about a week ago) and they are even shipping me a
full set
of 4 (instead of the original order of 2), are picking up the
shipping for
free, and am not requiring I mail back the Cordia
mudflaps.
At $60 for a set of two this is roughly $120 (minus $60 that I
paid before)
and they are picking up shipping of about $5-$10. They
just saved me about
$65-$70 so they do mean well but were just at a bad
time. I don't want them
to get a bad label since I found a Active Aero
rear wing motor from them for
$160 when the dealer was quoting about
$240. I'll look at Rockville also.
Just wanted to put in a good
word for them.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Roger J. Roskam [
mailto:roger.roskam@home.com]
Sent:
Monday, February 05, 2001 21:11
To: Brian Geisel
Cc: Team3S
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Ordering OEM Parts
Brian:
I just ordered about $1000
worth of parts today, from Rockville (Maryland)
Mitsubishi.
www.mitsupartsdirect.comThey
offer a 20% discount from list price, free UPS Ground shipping, and no
sales
tax (for me in Michigan). All of the parts were either in stock or
the
dealer could get them in 1 day.
Conclusion: With a little more
work, you may find a dealer that offers >
20% discount and free
shipping (Tallahassee may be your best bet - they
have not yet
responded to my 2/1 e-mail, however). If not, go
with
Rockville.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:52:10
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
Chuck,
Merritt
also shaved his tires when he didn't have time to season them for
Road
America (namely because I bought those tires and wheels from him so he
didn't
have any tires left). Also, in AutoX it gets them to the right
depth
instead of wearing them down for several events. I know I am
responding to
this late but that is why he did it the first
time.
And don't forget about Heat cycling. I'm gonna have
this done to my
tires for the DE in April. Give them a good base to
work from when driving
on them initially. I'll give reports obviously
from that school to the
list.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
Ordering
255/40/17 Yoko A-032s that will be Heat Cycled for a DE in April
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Monday, February 26, 2001 15:42
To: 'Merritt'; Willis, Charles E.; 'Steve
Lasher';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
Did you ever shave your
Yoko's? It still sounds like a scam, like they
don't manufacture the
tires right to begin with, if you have to shave them
to get them to wear
correctly. Do they charge extra to shave them?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:04:12
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
At 08:52 PM 2/27/01 -0500, Schilberg,
Darren wrote:
>Chuck,
>
> Merritt also shaved his
tires when he didn't have time to season them for
>Road America (namely
because I bought those tires and wheels from him so he
>didn't have any
tires left).
You are almost right. You just got your mords wixed.
Actually, I bought the first set of Kumhos unshaved but heat
cycled
because, like you said, I didn't have time to do it myself. I sold
my
wheels and tires to some dude in Pittsburgh (what a mistake! Shoulda
kept
them!) and had an event coming up.
The first time out at
Heartland Park, I corded the outside shoulder of both
fronts.
Tire Rack
said to shave them next time, so I bought a pair shaved, and it
worked. I
also cranked in a little more negative camber.
Rich
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 21:34:26
EST
From:
FRAGU172@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: check engine light on
Hi all.. my check engine light is on and i
dont know why... i just put new
NGK plugs in it.. (may have fouled a plug,
just wanted to make sure thats not
the problem) the check engine light
comes on after about a minute and a half
of driving/idling, also the idle is
up to about 1600 now.. in first gear i
can stay off the gas and clutch and
the car will still go! and the gas
mileage is about 40-50 off the
tank. can someone give me some insight on what
to check or what else to do??
thanks
- -Steven J
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:07:27
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
Does anyone have a nice
installation guide for the Big Reds? I will be
doing this within about
another week and before I sink a lot of time into
taking pictures and laying
out the tools and parts I wanted to make sure
this wasn't already in
existence.
If it is then please let me know and copy Brad Bedell,
bbedell@austin.rr.com, so that he can
add it to his webpage and Jeff Lucius,
stealthman92@yahoo.com, as well.
This might be something we can add to the
other org pages too if it proves
useful.
If this isn't out there already then look for a guide in about a
month for
the initial brake upgrade (Big Red calipers, Porsche or Pagid
Orange pads,
Goodridge SS braided brake lines, brake fluid, bleeders, and
stock rotors).
I know Roger has the Bremsa rotor page and a few others have
other things
(John with the Supra rotors, Rich with brake ducts, etc.) but I
was just
curious so I don't waste any time.
- --Flash!
1995
VR-4
Big Reds on the way soon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 20:18:07
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
Its dead drop
easy...the "hardest" part is the brake line install, which
is pretty straight
forward.
Take you two hours tops..including beer fetching..etc.
On
Tue, 27 Feb 2001, Schilberg, Darren wrote:
> Does anyone have a nice
installation guide for the Big Reds? I will be
> doing this within
about another week and before I sink a lot of time into
> taking pictures
and laying out the tools and parts I wanted to make sure
> this wasn't
already in existence.
>
> If it is then please let me know and copy
Brad Bedell,
>
bbedell@austin.rr.com, so that he can
add it to his webpage and Jeff Lucius,
>
stealthman92@yahoo.com, as well.
This might be something we can add to the
> other org pages too if it
proves useful.
>
> If this isn't out there already then look for a
guide in about a month for
> the initial brake upgrade (Big Red calipers,
Porsche or Pagid Orange pads,
> Goodridge SS braided brake lines, brake
fluid, bleeders, and stock rotors).
> I know Roger has the Bremsa rotor
page and a few others have other things
> (John with the Supra rotors,
Rich with brake ducts, etc.) but I was just
> curious so I don't waste any
time.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
> Big Reds on the way
soon
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:18:38
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods and recipes
Rich,
Don't forget that
you can drive to us too. I'll be at Mid-Ohio at least
once this year as
well as Watkins Glen and I'm planning on hitting the Texas
Motor Speedway
and/or Willow Springs too. I missed the chance to hit Road
Atlanta with
John C. but HE can probably teach you a thing or two as he has
been to quite
a few driving schools.
I'll try to do Heartland Park to keep you
company (and show you some new
recipes ... see below) but the schedule is
getting filled up with the
Gatherings already. Come on
Spring.
New recipes for any of our cars (especially the TT ones) which is
similar to
your Turbo Ribs but more general for all sorts of
food:
- Buy an oven bag from the store (thick aluminum foil
bag)
- Insert food
- Place on top of
plenum
- Close hood
- Drive for 20 "spirited"
miles
- Out comes food quite warm (caution - use gloves on
bag)
I used this for some Pop-Tarts with butter and got to
the AutoX scene (20
minutes away) and had a hot breakfast. Between runs
while I let the turbos
cool down I let the food warm. Pecan rolls,
sticky buns, you name it. Tall
foods are not advisable since the hood
will be shut. I actually kept the
food there and did some runs.
Take it out before trying to pass tech though
or else buy them off with some
hot breakfast. :)
- --Flash!
Pittsburgh, PA
1995
VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [
mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent:
Saturday, February 24, 2001 23:29
To: Willard Semple;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Mods
It's lonely out there. I have yet to see another
Stealth/3000GT on the
track with me, although I ALMOST got to run with Chuck
Willis at Heartland
Park last year. I get an Eclipse or a Talon as a
stablemate on rare
occasions, but that's about it.
If anybody in a
3000GT/Steath comes out and is faster than me, I would be
ecstatic. It means
there is somebody I can learn from, whether it be
driving skill or equipment
or tuning. As it is, all I get are Mustang,
Porsche and BMW instructors who
don't really understand our cars.
Don't get me wrong, those instructors
were wonderful and got me to where I
am today. But I REALLY need help from
somebody who knows our cars. I need
to run with guys like Chuck and John and
Geoff and Jack T, who are much
faster than I am, so I can learn.
We
just need more folks out there period.
Rich/creaky old poop/94
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:27:01
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
Thanks, Jeff.
Maybe I'll make a manual instead for what types of beer get
the job done
fastest. <grin>
I'm lucky enough to live darn close to the
resourceful John Christian who is
letting me borrow his 10, 11, and 12mm
crow's foot/brake line wrenches for
the job.
It's just that nobody has
pictures of the whole procedure and my friend and
I were stuck on a few
steps. Everyone has pix of it from the outside once
it is finished but
a few inside steps that makes it easy (size of bolts in
knuckle, size of
bolts going through new calipers, etc.) so there is a
laundry list like we
have for the spark plugs, injectors, Y-pipes, etc. to
work from.
Your
beer out in CA must be better than the stuff we get locally. Maybe
you
give out wine instead. People working in pristine, white lab coats
and all.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler [
mailto:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 27, 2001 23:18
To: Schilberg, Darren
Cc: Team3S
(E-mail)
Subject: Re: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation
guide
Its dead drop easy...the "hardest" part is the brake line install,
which
is pretty straight forward.
Take you two hours tops..including
beer fetching..etc.
On Tue, 27 Feb 2001, Schilberg, Darren
wrote:
> Does anyone have a nice installation guide for the Big
Reds?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:49:47
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
At 11:07 PM 2/27/01
-0500, Schilberg, Darren wrote:
>Does anyone have a nice installation
guide for the Big Reds?
1. Remove the old brake calipers and brake
lines.
2. Bolt on the Big Red calipers.
3. Bolt on the SS brake
lines.
4. Bleed the brakes.
You have a major decision to make: whether
to bolt the brackets to the hub
first, and then bolt the Big Reds to the
bracket, or bolt the Big Reds to
the brackets and then bolt the entire
assembly to the hub. Decisions,
decisions. Either way, it's about ten minutes
per side.
Here's another toughie: figuring out how to open the "swinging
door" on the
Big Reds so you can insert the brake pads. Keep in mind that
this bracket
is designed so that a brake man on a race team can change a set
of pads in
about 3.76 seconds. If you squeeze the "door" with a pair of
pliers and pop
it out with a screwdriver, it comes right out.
If you
haven't figured out what I am getting at, let me put it into plain
English:
Brad's kit is a piece of cake. Everything fits. It's about a
2-hour job, and
most of that will be figuring out which brake line goes where.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Feb 2001 23:16:51
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
Hi all,
So says
the guy that had the Iowa brake shop install
the BIG REDS on his
VR4.
- --- "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net"
<
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
wrote:
> If you haven't figured out what I am getting at, let
> me
put it into plain
> English: Brad's kit is a piece of cake.
Everything
> fits. It's about a
> 2-hour job, and most of that will
be figuring out
> which brake line goes where.
>
> Rich
But you're right Rich, its an easy job.
Be of good
cheer,
John
=====
Please respond to
jczoom@iname.com'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail.
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 01:44:54
-0600
From: "
merritt@cedar-rapids.net" <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
>
>So says
the guy that had the Iowa brake shop install
>the BIG REDS on his
VR4.
That's true.
All things considered, I would rather "let the
painters do the painting."
In my case, if I do my own work on the car, it
costs me a lot of money
because:
1. If I'm not working, I'm not getting
paid. You may notice from the
message log that it's 1:45 a.m. I'm still
working.
2. I don't have the necessary tools to simplify the job. Mostly, I
don't
have a lift. What a shop with a lift and all the proper tools can do in
an
hour takes me 2-4 hours.
3. The brake shop is excellent and they don't
charge much for brake,
suspension and alignment work.
So I cruise down
there at the appointed time and I'm back home at my
computer in an hour or
two, and it cost maybe $100. If I did it myself, it
would take all
%$#$% day, because I would have to hunt up all the tools,
crawl under there,
find somebody to help me bleed brakes, jack up the car
with a floor jack,
etc. If I lose a full 8 hours, I lose a whole lot more
than $100. When you
are self-employed, you make such decisions every day.
As much as I like to
tinker with the car, I like making money lots more. It
does not make good
financial sense for me to do my own work in almost
all
cases.
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 07:12:09
-0500
From: "Mihai Raicu" <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
More on tire temps
Rick,
I have driven my Falken FK-451 in
the winter too. Well, these are not
winter tires, and on snow, they
plain suck. Then again, my brother's Nitto
555 from his TT are only a
hair better on snow. I also believe my tires are
a little noisier than
the Nitto 555 or the previous tires I had on
(Bridgestone ?). However,
the bad winter handling can be expected due to
the verry unidirectional
thread and large patches of tire (seldom grooves).
Don't take all of the
above as dissatisfaction. I am happy with the tire.
I like the fact
that it has a Y-186 mph rating and 51 psi max pressure. Its
temp rating
is A, and the wet traction AA (best rating offered). In the
rain, this
tire likes it.
Maybe next winter, I'll get a set of cheaper 17" rims and
snow tires such as
Blizaks. It remains to be seen. All in all,
this was a good 245/35/18 tire
for $176 from Vulcan tire sales.
As for
winter time, the best car in my family that hanndles snow situations
is the
base 93 Stealth with new $50 tires (M+S, T-rated - 1118 mph). No
more
top speed runs in that car (speedo indicator--140 mph).
Conclusion: I am
happy with my tires, amd my brother with his NITTO 555.
- -MIKE-
aa2345@wayne.edu95 Red VR4
John,
brother
iraicu@cs.wayne.edu94 Pearl Yellow
TT
Detroit Metro Area, Michigan
-
-------------------------------------
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Rick [
mailto:melvin@gamewood.net]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 27, 2001 7:28 PM
To:
aa2345@mail1.wayne.edu;
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
I just got
Falken's for the T/T.Good price and I like the look.As you're the
first I've
seen with them,what do you think?So far I'm happy with mine, and
would like
to know if you have had any problems.Thanks
RICK
'91 Red Base
'91 Red
R/T T/T??
'92 Blue R/T T/T Stealths
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:33:30
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
I have used both: NGK and OME.
My choice
OME.
Victor
- -----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [
mailto:whietala@prodigy.net]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:08 PM
To: Maupin, Justin;
'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
Re: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
At 03:21 PM 2/27/01 , Maupin, Justin
wrote:
>Can someone tell me where is the best place(price wise) to get a
set of
>Magnecor wires from?
NGK wires fit better, are cheaper,
and are readily available @ most local
Import parts stores. I've been using
them for years without any
problems.....I think they are
8mm....
Wayne
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:09:49
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
I believe you can buy them direct from the
manufacturer.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Maupin,
Justin [
SMTP:Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 4:21 PM
> To:
'team3S@stealth-3000gt.st'>
Subject: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
>
> Greetings all,
>
>
Can someone tell me where is the best place(price wise) to get a set of
>
Magnecor wires from?
>
> Justin
> 92 TT
>
>
*** Info:
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***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:25:17
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
My tire guy told me to heat treat my
new Yoko's by the following method. 40
mph for 10 minutes, 50 mph for
10 minutes, 60 mph for 10 minutes, stop and
let tires cool, preferably
overnight. The purpose of this is to gradually
heat up the tires and
get the greasy mold release to offgas. It's worked
well for us on four
sets of Yokos so far.
Chuck
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Schilberg, Darren [
SMTP:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 7:52 PM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.';
'Merritt'; 'Steve Lasher';
>
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
>
> Chuck,
>
> Merritt also shaved his tires when he didn't have
time to season them
> for
> Road America (namely because I bought
those tires and wheels from him so
> he
> didn't have any tires
left). Also, in AutoX it gets them to the right
> depth
>
instead of wearing them down for several events. I know I am
responding
> to
> this late but that is why he did it the first
time.
> And don't forget about Heat cycling. I'm
gonna have this done to my
> tires for the DE in April. Give them a
good base to work from when
> driving
> on them initially.
I'll give reports obviously from that school to the
> list.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4
> Ordering 255/40/17 Yoko A-032s that
will be Heat Cycled for a DE in April
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
>
Sent: Monday, February 26, 2001 15:42
> To: 'Merritt'; Willis, Charles E.;
'Steve Lasher';
>
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
>
>
> Did you
ever shave your Yoko's? It still sounds like a scam, like they
>
don't manufacture the tires right to begin with, if you have to shave
them
> to get them to wear correctly. Do they charge extra to shave
them?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:30:43
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: check engine light on
When the ECU can't adjust the idle
speed to 750 rpm, it gives up, sets the
Check Engine light and the idle winds
up at double the 750 target or 1500
rpm. This is the same way an
Eclipse GSX behaves. You need to read the
trouble code from the
diagnostic connector using a voltmeter, if your car is
1st generation, or
decode the blinking of the check engine light for
2nd
generation.
Sounds like you didn't put it back together
properly. Did you try to reuse
the old intake plenum
gasket?
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
FRAGU172@aol.com [
SMTP:FRAGU172@aol.com]
> Sent:
Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:34 PM
> To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: check engine light on
>
> Hi all.. my check engine
light is on and i dont know why... i just put new
>
> NGK plugs in
it.. (may have fouled a plug, just wanted to make sure thats
> not
> the problem) the check engine light comes on after about a minute
and a
> half
> of driving/idling, also the idle is up to about 1600
now.. in first gear i
>
> can stay off the gas and clutch and the
car will still go! and the gas
> mileage is about 40-50 off the
tank. can someone give me some insight on
> what
> to check or what
else to do??
> thanks
> -Steven J
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:35:00
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
You forgot about the
time to figure out how to put the car on jackstands for
the first time, and
the frustration factor in trying to get the old brake
lines loosened, and
he's gonna bleed the brakes, apparently for the first
time since he hasn't
ever put it on jackstands, and he's gonna take
pictures. Flash, take
your time and enjoy it, Allow yourself all day to
"share the
experience"!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Geoff Mohler [
SMTP:gemohler@speedracer.speedtoys.com]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 10:18 PM
> To: Schilberg, Darren
>
Cc: Team3S (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit
installation guide
>
> Its dead drop easy...the "hardest" part is
the brake line install, which
> is pretty straight forward.
>
> Take you two hours tops..including beer fetching..etc.
>
>
On Tue, 27 Feb 2001, Schilberg, Darren wrote:
>
> > Does anyone
have a nice installation guide for the Big Reds? I will be
> >
doing this within about another week and before I sink a lot of time
>
into
> > taking pictures and laying out the tools and parts I wanted to
make sure
> > this wasn't already in existence.
> >
>
> If it is then please let me know and copy Brad Bedell,
> >
bbedell@austin.rr.com, so that he can
add it to his webpage and Jeff
> Lucius,
> >
stealthman92@yahoo.com, as well.
This might be something we can add to
> the
> > other org pages
too if it proves useful.
> >
> > If this isn't out there
already then look for a guide in about a month
> for
> > the
initial brake upgrade (Big Red calipers, Porsche or Pagid Orange
>
pads,
> > Goodridge SS braided brake lines, brake fluid, bleeders, and
stock
> rotors).
> > I know Roger has the Bremsa rotor page and a
few others have other
> things
> > (John with the Supra rotors,
Rich with brake ducts, etc.) but I was just
> > curious so I don't
waste any time.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995
VR-4
> > Big Reds on the way soon
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:38:53
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation guide
If only my time was
so valuable, I wouldn't be sitting here with my aching
back trying to get the
grease off my keyboard!
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net [
SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 1:45 AM
> To:
JCZooM@iname.com; Schilberg, Darren; Team3S
(E-mail)
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ISO Big Red brake kit installation
guide
>
>
> >
> >So says the guy that had the
Iowa brake shop install
> >the BIG REDS on his VR4.
>
>
That's true.
> All things considered, I would rather "let the painters do
the painting."
> In my case, if I do my own work on the car, it costs me a
lot of money
> because:
> 1. If I'm not working, I'm not getting
paid. You may notice from the
> message log that it's 1:45 a.m. I'm still
working.
> 2. I don't have the necessary tools to simplify the job.
Mostly, I don't
> have a lift. What a shop with a lift and all the proper
tools can do in an
> hour takes me 2-4 hours.
> 3. The brake shop
is excellent and they don't charge much for brake,
> suspension and
alignment work.
>
> So I cruise down there at the appointed time
and I'm back home at my
> computer in an hour or two, and it cost
maybe $100. If I did it myself,
> it
> would take all %$#$% day,
because I would have to hunt up all the tools,
> crawl under there, find
somebody to help me bleed brakes, jack up the car
> with a floor jack,
etc. If I lose a full 8 hours, I lose a whole lot more
> than $100. When
you are self-employed, you make such decisions every day.
> As much as I
like to tinker with the car, I like making money lots more.
> It
>
does not make good financial sense for me to do my own work in almost
all
> cases.
>
> Rich
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:34:09
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
Sorry Roger, I mean OEM (original stock
wires).
I notice a better performance with the stock wires as compare to NGK.
R/
Victor
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl
[
mailto:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
Sent:
Wednesday, February 28, 2001 10:32 AM
To: Berrios, Victor L;
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
At 08:33 28.02.2001 -0500, you wrote:
I
have used both: NGK and OME.
My choice OME.
I don't know OME, can you
please provide me with more information on them ?
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:44:38
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: check engine light on
To add to this...... Sounds like you
left a connector detached. You may
have accidentally unhooked the TPS
connector or one of the three connectors
that is mounted to that bracket on
the left side of the plenum. Go back and
check to make sure all
electrical connections are good.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: "Willis,
Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>To:
"
'FRAGU172@aol.com'" <
FRAGU172@aol.com>,
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: check engine light on
>Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:30:43
-0600
>
>When the ECU can't adjust the idle speed to 750 rpm, it
gives up, sets the
>Check Engine light and the idle winds up at double the
750 target or 1500
>rpm. This is the same way an Eclipse GSX
behaves. You need to read the
>trouble code from the diagnostic
connector using a voltmeter, if your car
>is
>1st generation, or
decode the blinking of the check engine light for
2nd
>generation.
>
>Sounds like you didn't put it back
together properly. Did you try to reuse
>the old intake plenum
gasket?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
FRAGU172@aol.com [
SMTP:FRAGU172@aol.com]
> >
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:34 PM
> > To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Team3S: check engine light on
> >
> > Hi all.. my
check engine light is on and i dont know why... i just put
>new
>
>
> > NGK plugs in it.. (may have fouled a plug, just wanted to make
sure
>thats
> > not
> > the problem) the check
engine light comes on after about a minute and a
> > half
> >
of driving/idling, also the idle is up to about 1600 now.. in first gear
>i
> >
> > can stay off the gas and clutch and the car
will still go! and the gas
> > mileage is about 40-50 off the
tank. can someone give me some insight on
> > what
> > to
check or what else to do??
> > thanks
> > -Steven
J
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 15:50:43
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
>Sorry Roger, I mean OEM (original stock
wires).
Ah, ok :)
>I notice a better performance with the stock
wires as compare to NGK.
If you did, then you had defective NGK wires. I
installed two sets of them
without any problems. But also, you will NOT feel
any difference with wires
and they should only be replaced if the stock ones
are old if one will
dress-up the engines
compartment.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 09:10:14
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
I'd like to hear everyone else's opinion of
"old", when it comes to plug
wires.
(in terms of years, miles, or
condition).
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Gerl [
SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 8:51 AM
> To:
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
>
>
> >Sorry Roger, I
mean OEM (original stock wires).
>
> Ah, ok :)
>
>
>I notice a better performance with the stock wires as compare to
NGK.
>
> If you did, then you had defective NGK wires. I installed
two sets of them
>
> without any problems. But also, you will NOT
feel any difference with
> wires
> and they should only be replaced
if the stock ones are old if one will
> dress-up the engines
compartment.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:10:30
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Magnecor Wires
At 07:50 AM 2/28/01 , you wrote:
>If you
did, then you had defective NGK wires. I installed two sets of them
>without any problems. But also, you will NOT feel any difference with
>wires and they should only be replaced if the stock ones are old if one
>will dress-up the engines compartment.
>
>Roger
I
have to second this notion. I worked for a major performance company in
R&D (dyno tuning) for 4 years, in which time we tested NUMEROUS ignition
components. Surprise, surprise....nothing gave any performance gains. I
think it's a matter of what color wires you want, black blue or
red.....
Wayne
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 07:06:09
-0800
From: Steve Saeedi <
saeedi@mac.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Magnecor Wires
I finally am having the plug wires replaced at 181K
miles.
- - Steve
At 9:10 AM -0600 2/28/01, Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
>I'd like to hear everyone else's opinion of "old", when it comes
to plug
>wires.
>(in terms of years, miles, or
condition).
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From:
Roger Gerl [
SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
>>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 8:51 AM
>> To:
'TEAM3S@STEALTH-3000GT.ST'>>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Magnecor Wires
>>
>>
>>
>Sorry Roger, I mean OEM (original stock wires).
>>
>> Ah,
ok :)
>>
>> >I notice a better performance with the stock
wires as compare to NGK.
>>
>> If you did, then you had
defective NGK wires. I installed two sets of them
>>
>>
without any problems. But also, you will NOT feel any difference
with
>> wires
>> and they should only be replaced if the stock
ones are old if one will
>> dress-up the engines
compartment.
>>
>> Roger
>> 93'3000GT TT
>>
www.rtec.ch>>
>>
>>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:33:43
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: rough idle
On a sidenote to the idle not working properly ...
I have had my car running
fine since June. Same mod (K&N FIPK and
some new NGK plugs and Magnecor
wires 5k miles and 4 months ago). I did
have a new clutch and tranny put in
back in mid-January.
A few weeks
ago I started it and it struggled to keep idle, ran down to
200-500 rpm,
choked, then stopped. I tried again. Same thing. I
didn't
give it gas beforehand like the old cars (don't need to on fuel
injection).
Then I tried again and once it was healthy enough that I could
rev I ran it
up to 6,000 rpm. Then it idled just fine.
Any
diagnosis? It occurred yesterday again too (mid 50's, sitting all
day,
no rain, no drips, all wires and connectors are back in place
correctly). I
had no Check Engine Light come on.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4 (second gen so no datalogger available)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent:
Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:31 AM
To:
'FRAGU172@aol.com';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: check engine light on
When the ECU can't adjust the idle
speed to 750 rpm, it gives up, sets the
Check Engine light and the idle winds
up at double the 750 target or 1500
rpm. This is the same way an
Eclipse GSX behaves. You need to read the
trouble code from the
diagnostic connector using a voltmeter, if your car is
1st generation, or
decode the blinking of the check engine light for
2nd
generation.
Sounds like you didn't put it back together
properly. Did you try to reuse
the old intake plenum
gasket?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:36:08
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: looking for 3000/stealth
Andrzej,
As Roger said, in
addition to the 3000GT turbos that were officially sold
by Mitsubishi in
Europe, there are also various models of the 3000GT and
Stealth around that
were brought over from the USA by Americans stationed
here. I
occasionally see them advertised in American newspapers and
publications
(almost never turbo models), but please keep in mind that these
cars are
AMERICAN-SPEC and may require extensive modification to bring them
into
compliance with Poland's regulations.
I would hope that no one would try
to sell a NA (normally-aspirated, or
non-turbo) car as a turbo, but please
understand that Americans here are
exempt from modifying American vehicles to
comply with European standards
and may not know anything about what's
involved. Things that come to mind
are side marker lights, front and
rear fog lights, tires, etc.
Also, I recommend speaking with your local
Mitsubishi dealer(s) to see if
they are able to work on these cars.
There aren't many in Europe, so
mechanics will have little experience
repairing them and may lack the
specialized equipment necessary to diagnose
problems or perform even the
most basic repairs. My experience with
Mitsubishi dealers in Germany
working on my Stealth has been fair at
best!
Best of luck.
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Porterfield cryo-treated
rotors, R4S pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 16:36:10
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
That has been my experience as
well. It took five visits to two Mitsu
dealers and a new set of front
ECS struts, tie rod ends, wheel spacers and a
CV Joint for the mechanics to
find my bad wheel bearing. Between unneeded
parts and German labor
rates, my cost was an order of magnitude more than
necessary.
:-(
FYI, my symptom was not a rumble, rather it was a "swishing" noise
once per
revolution when that corner was loaded. I do hear a rumble on
bumpy roads
at low speed which I assume are worn bushings.
Good
luck!
- - --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Porterfield cryo-treated
rotors, R4S pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
Sent: Tuesday, February 27, 2001 8:47 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: FW: Team3S: rumble on the front right wheel
Well,
as you might have guessed, Mitsu couldn't find anything wrong. I
think
a component has to be broken into two pieces before these guys can
discern a
problem. Next stop is a chassis shop., which is where I should've
gone to
begin with ...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 08:51:27
-0700
From: Desert Fox <
bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
This sounds hard unless one is at a track
overnight, no?
- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR
aluminium hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent
on 2/28/01 7:25,
Willis, Charles E. at
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.orgscribbled:
>
My tire guy told me to heat treat my new Yoko's by the following method.
40
> mph for 10 minutes, 50 mph for 10 minutes, 60 mph for 10 minutes,
stop and
> let tires cool, preferably overnight. The purpose of this
is to gradually
> heat up the tires and get the greasy mold release to
offgas. It's worked
> well for us on four sets of Yokos so
far.
>
> Chuck
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:11:59
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: rough idle
Have you cleaned the K&N filter since
installation? When you changed the
plugs, did you take the time to
clean out the intake manifold plenum? Has
the fuel filter ever been
changed in your car?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Schilberg, Darren [
SMTP:DSchilberg@freemarkets.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:34 AM
> To: 'Willis, Charles E.';
'FRAGU172@aol.com';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: rough idle
>
> On a sidenote to the idle not
working properly ... I have had my car
> running
> fine since
June. Same mod (K&N FIPK and some new NGK plugs and Magnecor
>
wires 5k miles and 4 months ago). I did have a new clutch and tranny
put
> in
> back in mid-January.
>
> A few weeks ago I
started it and it struggled to keep idle, ran down to
> 200-500 rpm,
choked, then stopped. I tried again. Same thing. I
didn't
> give it gas beforehand like the old cars (don't need to on
fuel
> injection).
> Then I tried again and once it was healthy
enough that I could rev I ran
> it
> up to 6,000 rpm. Then it
idled just fine.
>
> Any diagnosis? It occurred yesterday
again too (mid 50's, sitting all
> day,
> no rain, no drips, all
wires and connectors are back in place correctly).
> I
> had no
Check Engine Light come on.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 (second
gen so no datalogger available)
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E. [
mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:31 AM
> To:
'FRAGU172@aol.com';
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: check engine light on
>
> When the ECU can't
adjust the idle speed to 750 rpm, it gives up, sets the
> Check Engine
light and the idle winds up at double the 750 target or 1500
> rpm.
This is the same way an Eclipse GSX behaves. You need to read the
>
trouble code from the diagnostic connector using a voltmeter, if your
car
> is
> 1st generation, or decode the blinking of the check
engine light for 2nd
> generation.
>
> Sounds like you didn't
put it back together properly. Did you try to
> reuse
> the
old intake plenum gasket?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Feb 2001 10:15:21
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
I try to find a stretch of highway
(farm-to-market roads) with little
traffic. Sunday AM seems convenient,
becasue everyone is sleeping off their
hangovers. You can bet I got
lots of nasty comments from people passing me
during the 40 mph stretch, even
though I had my emergency flashers on.
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Desert Fox [
SMTP:bigfoot@simmgene.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, February 28, 2001 9:51 AM
> To: Willis, Charles
E.
> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: More on tire temps
>
> This sounds hard
unless one is at a track overnight, no?
>
> --
>
Paul/.
> 95 black 3000GT VR-4
> 98 VFR800F, TBR aluminium hi
exit
> formerly reasonable and prudent
>
> on 2/28/01 7:25,
Willis, Charles E. at
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
scribbled:
>
> > My tire guy told me to heat treat my new Yoko's
by the following method.
> 40
> > mph for 10 minutes, 50 mph for
10 minutes, 60 mph for 10 minutes, stop
> and
> > let tires cool,
preferably overnight. The purpose of this is to
> gradually
>
> heat up the tires and get the greasy mold release to offgas.
It's
> worked
> > well for us on four sets of Yokos so
far.
> >
> > Chuck
>
>
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#422
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