team3s
Tuesday, February 6
2001 Volume 01
: Number
399
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 5 Feb 2001 17:13:52 -0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best Year VR-4 (LONG reply)
> 94
> same,
but:
> different style 17" wheel (always chromed?)
There are cars
with the 17" non-chromed wheels. My old '94 VR4 had those.
They look
the same as the chrome ones, but have a silvery finish like most
91-93
wheels. The chrome wheels were a pretty expensive option
($2000???)
> 95
> same, but:
> 18" 6 spoke chromed wheels
Spyder models came with chromed 17" '94-style wheels (SL and VR4).
All
Spyder VR4 models and CA emissions VR4's have four O2 sensors.
Spyder SL I
believe has CA emissions as well, but don't know how many O2
sensors.
> 96
> same, but:
> no ECS
> OBDII with 4
oxygen sensors (some diagnostic scanning ability?)
Yes, you can use
an OBD-II datalogger but there's no provision for knock sum
readings, which
is what many people tune fuel mixtures by. Timing advance
and O2
readings (as well as many others) are available with a standard
OBD-II
scanner ($130 or so for a PC-interface version).
>
97-98
> "loop"
spoiler?
> don't know enough else to comment
Loop spoilers,
different more "open" front bumper in front of radiator
and
intercoolers.
> as far as I'm aware, there are no substantial
reliability differences
> between 5-sp and 6-sp Getrags.. They both
have problems with
> the synchros wearing out too fast.. usually
2nd and
> sometimes 3rd.. However, it has been suggested that
the
> cast iron transfer case that comes on the 93 5-sp
> and 94+
6-sp setup is more durable to high HP applications..
The early
model VR4/TT cars had a weaker splined output shaft from the
tranny to the
transfer case. That's one of the bigger problems of the early
trannies
(which can be corrected with parts from Kormex). I don't know at
what
point that was changed to the beefier design.
> 2nd gen cars are rated
at 320hp as opposed to 300 for the 1st
> gen.. this is ONLY due to
a difference in factory limited
> boost pressure.. you can get the
same effect with a
> bleeder valve for less than $5.
You can also
get those 20 horsies for free by pulling the restrictor ring
out of the inlet
tube of the boost control solenoid.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 23:45:09
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Best Year VR-4 (LONG reply)
Okay... so now it
sounds like the 93 or 94 is the better buy. Someone at my work has a 93 in
beautiful condition with 113k miles on it... but again, in beautiful (and I mean
beautiful) condition that he's letting go for $10k. At the same time,
there's a 94 in excellent condition at a small mom and pop car shop not far from
my house. I test drove it this passed weekend and its being sold for $14k
I believe. Which in everyone's opinion (that is, who's been helping me
with this subject, which guys, I do appreciate this a great deal) is the better
buy?
John
Get your free e24/7 email at http://www.e247.com
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files with 100MB of storage
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 19:56:21
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: dumb question for the day
>> NO, I AM NOT, please explain.
If your wheels turned in the
>> same direction, it would be impossible
to turn.
>
>Are you making this up? Where's your source of
information?
>
>The rear wheels only turn about 2 degrees, and only
at speeds above 40 MPH
>or so.
>
And I have seen the
dealership test it for me while on the lift and throttle
cable clamped to
keep the speed at around 50mph. Swing the steering quickly
to the
right, the rear wheels turn right---same phase steering. Honda
Preludes
were opposite phase low speed systems. Ours are high speed only
and
helps these pigs with weight transfer a lot.
Sam
>Here's my source
of information:
>
>http://www.3si.org/member-home/stim2/tim_19b-02.gif
>
>Stealth
Technical Information manual. Also many discussions about this
on
>this very list, and widely available data about the AWS
systems.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 17:58:47
-0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Best Year VR-4 (LONG reply)
> Someone at
my work has a 93 in beautiful condition with 113k miles on
it... but again,
in beautiful (and I mean beautiful) condition that he's
letting go for
$10k. > a 94 in excellent condition at a small mom and pop
car shop
not far from my house. I test drove it this passed weekend and
its
being sold for $14k I believe. Which in everyone's opinion is
the
better buy?
How many miles on the 94?
The tranny goes out at
about 60K miles, so check to be sure the 94 has had
a new tranny put in. If
not, you'll need one soon.
If the 94 has had a new tranny and the 60K
service done, and does not have
more than about 80K miles, then the 94 is the
better deal.
Rich/old poop
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 20:09:34
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Best Year VR-4
I believe the crank and main bearing caps
are also stronger on the later
93.5+ cars.
My experience with the six
speed is that at least in drag racing, you can go
through the traps in third
gear close to redline and do mid to high 12s
(stock turbos). If my car
was faster, then maybe a shift into fourth would
be inevitable (w/o the rev
limiter disabled and better valve-train.)
Sam
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 16:26:50
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: part number for hella conversion kit
>
Does anybody knowthe part number for the Hella headlight converion
> kit
to our 1st generation
> cars?
Anyone that can sell you the lights
should be able to tell you the size you
need. The Hella rectangular H4
lights only come in 2 sizes. They also
distinguish between left-hand
drive vehicles (right side of beam flairs up to
illuminate signs on the right
side of the road) and right-hand drive vehicles
(left side of beam flairs
up), so just buy the lights from a dealer in your
country. Also, you
need an H4 prewired connectors. You will need to cut off
the stock
connectors, then solder on the new ones.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If
you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Feb 2001 20:10:56
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
Matt Janusch (sp?) mention
in a response to the question of which car to buy
that there is a restrictor
in the first generations boost solenoid that
could be removed to up the
horsepower. Is this true? Safe? Difficult? What
would it up the
horsepower to?
Thanks,
Michael D.
Crose
_________________________________________________________________
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your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 01:25:11
+0000 (GMT+00:00)
From: John Stegall III <john.stegall@e247.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Best Year 3000GT
My thanks to all of you who helped me and
gave me advice about the different models/years of the 3000GTs. You helped
me greatly in looking at what to purchase and even gave me insight on years that
I didn't even bother to think about (such as the 93, which is my purchase
choice). Thanks again for the help.
John
1997 3000GT
Soon to
own a 1993 3000GT VR-4
Get your free e24/7 email at http://www.e247.com
Send & receive large
files with 100MB of storage
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 21:11:16
-0500
From: "Roger J. Roskam" <roger.roskam@home.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Ordering OEM Parts
Brian:
I just ordered about $1000
worth of parts today, from Rockville (Maryland)
Mitsubishi. www.mitsupartsdirect.com
They
offer a 20% discount from list price, free UPS Ground shipping, and no
sales
tax (for me in Michigan). All of the parts were either in stock or
the
dealer could get them in 1 day.
I compared the price of one part -- a
lower control arm -- at several
websites:
$271.25
List price Mitsubishi
dealer
$217.00 20% discount Rockville
Mitsubishi free
shipping
$230.56 15% discount Tallahassee
Mitsubishi free(?) shipping
$244.13 10%
discount West Broad Mitsubishi +15%
shipping best
website
$442.00 List
price Dodge dealer (local)*
* I
work for Chrysler, so I get a 25% discount on Mopar parts. Even
after
my discount, the same part would have been $331.50, which is more than
list
price at a Mitsubishi dealer! A local garage quoted me $435, also
going
thru a local Dodge dealer. I hate to say this, but whatever you
do, STAY
AWAY FROM DODGE!
Some of these places *may* offer a "special"
discount to list members, but
you would have to ask. Rockville does
not, just their normal 20% deal. I
went with Rockville due to:
.
free shipping
. online ordering
. no sales tax
. parts in stock
.
they responded quickly to my inquiries = service!
:-)
Conclusion: With a little more work, you may find a dealer that
offers >
20% discount and free shipping (Tallahassee may be your
best bet - they
have not yet responded to my 2/1 e-mail, however). If
not, go with
Rockville.
Roger Roskam
91 Indy Stealth
RT/TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Geisel"
<brian.geisel@compaq.com>
To:
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 05, 2001 3:11 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ordering OEM
Parts
> Hello all,
> There was a place that gave Team3S 25%
discount or so, I think
> Jeremy was the guy I talked to. Anyone
remember the place we go
> through?
> I want to say it was somewhere
in Tenn. (or maybe it was in Talahassee
> --
> too many s's
& e's for me :)
>
> Thanx,
> Brian
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 21:00:58
-0500
From: "Trent" <bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: dumb question for the day
Kenneth,
As a previous owner or
a Z TT I'm inclined to note that the Z used a system
similar to the 3000's in
that very little angle is induced. (No were near 15
degrees, more like
2)Initially as opposite phase switching to same phase as
the turn
progresses.
If you really want to get confused, take a look at the rear
suspension on
our cars, were the actuator for the rear steer attaches to the
trailing arm.
It is not intuitively obvious how this system could possible
induce any
steering at all.
DaveT/92TT
- ----- Original Message
-----
> Through all of this, I am reminded of the story of the pot
calling the
kettle black. Then again, this time the kettle just wants a
little
clarification...
>
> What you are attempting to describe,
Judson, is an alternate phase system,
as is found on the 300ZX. May I
note that that system can turn the rear
wheels in the opposite direction of
the fronts upto the region of 15
degrees.
>
Shop online
without a credit card
http://www.rocketcash.com
RocketCash, a
NetZero subsidiary
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 21:24:31
-0500
From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: dumb question for the day
They have same phase
stearing. All four wheels turn the same direction.
Since the rear
wheels only turn a fraction of the front wheels, the car is
able to corner
fine. Also, the pump from the rear wheels activates in the
low 30's,
but the rear wheels don't actually turn until you are above 50mph
and make a
quick turn (normal driving won't do this). The speed are out of
the
manual, and I have confirmed it with the car on a lift.
Michael
98
VR4
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Judson Smith
> Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 15:21
> To:
Jannusch, Matt; Willis, Charles E.; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: dumb question for the day
>
>
> Matt,
please try to state your reasoning instead of trashing
> someone
with
> such a childish comment. I'm sure the team can appreciate
that.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
Jannusch, Matt <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
>
To: 'Judson Smith' <jsmith@fmbs.com>;
Willis, Charles E.
> <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>;
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 3:13 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: dumb
question for the day
>
>
> > Judson Smith said:
>
>
> > > Chuck....the wheels turn in the "opposite" direction. If
they
> > > turned the same direction, the car would crash at
high
> > > speeds...Yes, this question is dumb...but I'm
overlooking
> > > that. Have a good day.
> >
> >
No, you are completely and totally wrong.
> >
> >
-Matt
> > '95 3000GT Spyder
> > (With same-phase AWS)
>
>
> > *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 21:31:54
EST
From: BobPhotoFX@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE:
Team3S: Best Year VR-4 (LONG reply)
There's a pricing guide on our Team3S
FAQ page, www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm (in
the Basics section). The prices are only a few months old, so they are
still
fairly accurate. (All numbers are lower, since the cars are a
few months
older). A '93 VR-4 has a BlueBook of $15,333 (Retail)
and $10,956
(Wholesale), while a '94 comes in at $18,793 (R) and $13,878
(W). This
assumes 10k mi/yr, or 70k for the '93 and 60k for the
'94. You didn't give
the mileage on the '94, but the '93 has 43k
*more* miles than the guideline
price for a clean car with 70k. Deduct
$80 for every additional 1000 miles
over 70k, or $3440, and the recalculated
price range is ~$11,900 (R) to
~$7,500 (W). So the $10k price is only
average - a fair price for a clean
but high-mileage car which *will* need
its 60k service done very soon (like
now).
I'd want to
know the mileage for the '94, but IMO it's the best year, so that
gets my
vote if it is in similar condition to the '93. Either car is a fine
choice, but don't rush it... Check similar deals in your area before
making
a decision-- www.autotrader.com
.
Best,
Forrest
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"John Stegall III" <john.stegall@e247.com>
To: <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Monday, February 05, 2001 3:45 PM
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S: Best Year VR-4
(LONG reply)
>> Okay... so now it sounds like the 93 or 94 is the
better buy. Someone at
my work has a 93 in beautiful condition with
113k miles on it... but again,
in beautiful (and I mean beautiful) condition
that he's letting go for $10k.
At the same time, there's a 94 in
excellent condition at a small mom and pop
car shop not far from my
house. I test drove it this passed weekend and its
being sold for $14k
I believe. Which in everyone's opinion (that is, who's
been helping me
with this subject, which guys, I do appreciate this a great
deal) is the
better buy?<<
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 19:03:33
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Best Year VR-4
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Schilberg, Darren
<DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
>That's
why the Big Reds are not a bolt-on upgrade to
> the first gen cars.
Maybe is a combo of a smaller rotor and smaller wheel
> that kills
it.
Commie lies --- I have the big red setup on my 93 TT, It has the
big reds, the
94 rotors and had 94 17" wheels [ now I have 17" RP01's ].
I
also tried my stock 93 Stealth wheels with the reds, they fit but just barely
---
not enough clearance to race safely.
Jim
berry
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 19:09:54
-0800
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
dumb question for the day
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Trent
<bdtrent@netzero.net>
>
If you really want to get confused, take a look at the rear suspension
on
> our cars, were the actuator for the rear steer attaches to the
trailing arm.
> It is not intuitively obvious how this system could
possible induce any
> steering at all.
As I recall it's a
compliance system --- it dosn't have rack and pinion or any
'normal' steering
gizmos. The pump forces the tie rod to deform a rubber
bushing enough to
produce about 1½º of deflection.
Jim
Berry If anybody picks on my version
of the truth I'll hold
my
breath untill I turn blue.
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2001 22:33:35
-0800 (PST)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Oversteer (Was Tires)
Hi All,
Congrats Chuck.
Driving ahead of the car and keeping
eyes up looking ahead instead of where
you are right
now is the key to being quick and smooth.
Sounds
easy, but keeping that MOST important technique
in effect even for a whole
lap is very difficult.
And difficult to teach cause the student
brain is
usually going into overload by then.
Be of good
cheer,
John
- --- "Willis, Charles E."
> I had become
fixated on the turn-in point,
> instead of looking at the track out while
the car
> is turning in. which made me late on turnin
(safe,
but slow) on several key corners.
> I spent all
weekend
> turning my head early to force my eyes down track
>
through the turns. To do
> this you really have to develop
confidence of where
> your car is relative to
> the turnin and edge
of track. It worked.
>
> Chuck
>
=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche
brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH 5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 08:29:44
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best Year VR-4 (LONG reply)
> 91-93
> 17"
wheels (painted silver with chrome option)
> Active Exhaust (just a baffle
that moves to change single or dual)
[Willis, Charles E.] My son's '93 came
with the anodized aluminum
wheels as an option. They cost more than the
chrome to replace.
[Willis, Charles E.] I think the baffle moves from
one side to the
other, not really to dual. I'd have to check the TIM to
be sure, but the
exhaust appears to come from one side or the other.
Maybe mine are not
working right.
> 94
[Willis, Charles
E.] There's a big shape change in '94. The hood
is substantially
different - you don't have the two hatches over the strut
covers that can be
exchanged for engine compartment exhaust scoops. The
hood is more
rounded than flattened. The fog lights changed and they are
subject to
getting water vapor inside the lens. [Willis, Charles E.]
I
haven't seen the leakage or fading of the painted portion under the
glass
headlight cover, but it is subject to fractures. I suspect you
can
disassemble the headlight assembly and clean or repaint. Last
weekend, I
was told you can exchange the glass for Lexan.
>
>
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 08:31:52
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: dumb question for the day
> And I have seen the dealership
test it for me while on the lift and
> throttle
> cable clamped to
keep the speed at around 50mph. Swing the steering
> quickly
>
to the right, the rear wheels turn right---same phase steering.
Honda
> Preludes were opposite phase low speed systems. Ours are
high speed only
> and helps these pigs with weight transfer a lot.
>
> Sam
>
[Willis, Charles E.] Is it possible to
electronically input the
speed to check the function without actually running
the throttle up?
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 08:37:40
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
> Matt Janusch (sp?)
mention in a response to the question of which car to buy
> that there is
a restrictor in the first generations boost solenoid that
> could be
removed to up the horsepower. Is this true? Safe? Difficult?
What
> would it up the horsepower to?
I believe that in an old
post, someone mentioned that the restrictor is actually
in the 4-way "H
connector" on the port whose hose goes down toward the rear
turbo. If
one were to install the 2nd gen H connector (or a cheap 4-way
vacuum
connector from a chain auto parts store), or drill out the port on the
first
connector, then it is possible to raise the boost from 300 to 320 on a
1st gen.
A $2 bleeder valve can also be used to raise
boost.
Regardless of the method you use to raise boost (ported H
connector, bleeder
valve, or boost controller), you most likely will be safe
as long as you stay
under 15 psi with the stock fuel system. When
raising boost, it is a very good
idea to have an accurate boost pressure
gauge. Before installing an electronic
boost controller, I used a
bleeder valve (http://www.3si.org, tech tips,
bleeder
valve mod) and an SPI A-pillar mounted boost gauge to run 15 psi for
18 months.
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 10:50:27
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
> I believe that in
an old post, someone mentioned that the
> restrictor is actually in the
4-way "H connector" on the
> port whose hose goes down toward the rear
turbo. If one
> were to install the 2nd gen H connector (or a cheap
4-way
> vacuum connector from a chain auto parts store), or drill
>
out the port on the first connector, then it is possible
> to raise the
boost from 300 to 320 on a 1st gen.
> A $2 bleeder valve can also be used
to raise boost.
It isn't in the H-connector. It is in the boost
control solenoid input
nipple. If there's a restrictor in the
H-connector going towards a
wastegate, removing that would cause slower
spoolup since the wastegate
would see pressure sooner.
Took the
restrictor out of my buddy's '91 VR4 with my own two hands. Trust
me,
its in the solenoid. :-)
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 09:09:27
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
> > I believe that
in an old post, someone mentioned that the
> > restrictor is actually
in the 4-way "H connector" on the
> > port whose hose goes down toward
the rear turbo. If one
> > were to install the 2nd gen H
connector (or a cheap 4-way
> > vacuum connector from a chain auto
parts store), or drill
> > out the port on the first connector, then it
is possible
> > to raise the boost from 300 to 320 on a 1st
gen.
> > A $2 bleeder valve can also be used to raise boost.
>
> It isn't in the H-connector. It is in the boost control solenoid
input
> nipple. If there's a restrictor in the H-connector going
towards a
> wastegate, removing that would cause slower spoolup since the
wastegate
> would see pressure sooner.
>
> Took the
restrictor out of my buddy's '91 VR4 with my own two hands. Trust
>
me, its in the solenoid. :-)
In that case, the options are to drill
out the restrictor in the soleonoid port,
or replace the 1st gen soleonoid
with a 2nd gen (about $40). Either should give
you 320 HP safely.
-
--
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 12:28:12
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
Thanks guys,
Sweet I
am going try that today. Sounds pretty easy and you can't be free
horsepower.
Thanks again Matt and
Ken,
Michael
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 19:24:55
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
>Sweet I am going try
that today. Sounds pretty easy and you can't be free
>horsepower.
Almost too easy as the boost solenoid is differently
controlled by the 2nd
gen ECU ! It will not give you any horsepower but a
better spool up and
more overboost in the lower end.
Explanation
:
The stock boost solenoid acts like a bleeder valve. When it is open some
pressure from the wastegate actuator lines is relieved to the rear intake
(infront the turbo) what causes the wastegate to open later than supposed.
When the airflow inscreases the boost solenoid gets alternated by the ECU
to keep the boost on a good level. Above 3500 rpm the solenoid is fully
closed under full load (full throttle) where boost builds up fast and
therefore would cause too much overboost. Therefore the solenoid stays
closed to get the wastegates fully operated to limit boost. Removing the
restrictor then increases the initial boost that can be created but it will
fall off to the standard level when the solenoid is closed and the
restrictor doesn't play any rule. The effect will be that there is more
short overboost due to faster spool up but no more power in the top end.
For this the control of the solenoid must be changed, as well as the timing
and fuel map. They are different for the years due to OBDII.
As said,
it will give you a better response in the lower end due to the
longer closed
gate but this also produces overboost. In this case this is
no problem, but
don't think that this gives you any more horses ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch
***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 12:35:28
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
Is this worth doing if I
am already running either a manual boost controller
or a dual solenoid
electronic boost controller?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Roger Gerl [SMTP:roger.gerl@bluewin.ch]
>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2001 12:25 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
>
>
> >Sweet I am going try that today. Sounds pretty easy and you
can't be
> free
> >horsepower.
>
> Almost too easy
as the boost solenoid is differently controlled by the 2nd
>
> gen
ECU ! It will not give you any horsepower but a better spool up and
>
more overboost in the lower end.
>
> Explanation :
> The
stock boost solenoid acts like a bleeder valve. When it is open some
>
pressure from the wastegate actuator lines is relieved to the rear intake
> (infront the turbo) what causes the wastegate to open later than
supposed.
>
> When the airflow inscreases the boost solenoid gets
alternated by the ECU
> to keep the boost on a good level. Above 3500 rpm
the solenoid is fully
> closed under full load (full throttle) where
boost builds up fast and
> therefore would cause too much overboost.
Therefore the solenoid stays
> closed to get the wastegates fully
operated to limit boost. Removing the
> restrictor then increases the
initial boost that can be created but it
> will
> fall off to the
standard level when the solenoid is closed and the
> restrictor doesn't
play any rule. The effect will be that there is more
> short overboost
due to faster spool up but no more power in the top end.
> For this the
control of the solenoid must be changed, as well as the
> timing
>
and fuel map. They are different for the years due to OBDII.
>
> As
said, it will give you a better response in the lower end due to the
>
longer closed gate but this also produces overboost. In this case this is
> no problem, but don't think that this gives you any more horses
;-)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> www.rtec.ch
>
>
> ***
Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 06 Feb 2001 19:46:13
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First Gen. Boost Solenoid restrictor
At 12:35 06.02.2001
-0600, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>Is this worth doing if I am already
running either a manual boost controller
>or a dual solenoid electronic
boost controller?
Not at all, because in any case the stock boost
solenoid should be out of
the path ! Even more with a bleeder valve it would
cause more overboost
what may cause danger situations
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch
*** Info: http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 6 Feb 2001 16:44:52
-0500
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ordering OEM Parts
well I could tell ya I just got thru ordering a bunch
of stuff (60K &
clutch-for VR4, 60K for truck) and NOBODY could beat MVP
motorsport's
price, even on OEM parts. www.mvpmotorsports.com
On Mon,
05 Feb 2001 15:11:39 -0500 Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
writes:
>
Hello all,
> There was a place that gave Team3S 25% discount or so, I
> think> Jeremy was the guy I talked to. Anyone remember the
place we go
> through?> I want to say it was somewhere in Tenn.
(or maybe it was in
> Talahassee> --> too many s's & e's for me
:)
>
> Thanx,
> Brian
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
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------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#399
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