team3s
Monday, November 27
2000 Volume 01
: Number
334
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 26 Nov 2000 13:07:20 -0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
I always thought it was an electrical
connection. My Legend had the same
thing and if the mirror is angled
far enough to one side then you can see
some electrical connections in
there.
In the middle of summer (100 degrees F) if you turn on the rear
defroster
button then the mirrors also get hot. That means that the air
would need to
be hotter than ambient to make it feel hotter than the
surrounding air -
simple thermodynamics type of stuff.
Also, why would
they connect an electrical connection (the rear window
defroster) to a button
that kicks in hot air? Just wouldn't make sense.
And there is no air
ever hears piping to the back of the mirror so it must
be
electrical.
Sam, I think the air connection you are looking at that goes
from the side
of the dash, through the driver door is for the driver window
defroster
vent.
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and a custom spark
plug plate
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi-
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [
mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Sunday,
November 26, 2000 06:36
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Hot
air. Open the door and look at the side of the dash, you will see
the
air connection. I believe it only works when the defrost button on
you
climate control is on.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: George Shaw <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
Date:
Sunday, November 26, 2000 3:28 PM
>Folks
>
>A quick
question. How do the rear view mirrors heat? Is it by some
>electrical
connection? Or is it via hot air from the air-con system? Reason
>I ask is
I want to replace the mirror (glass) with a Gentex auto-dim rear
>view
system (
http://www.gentex.com) and need to
know how the current system
>works.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 11:54:14
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Wouldnt be that hard to add to the car
yourself.
Im not familiar with how the 3S has the mirrors attached to
the motorized
backing IN the mirror...but heres the general
idea.
First find/design a 12v heat sink. Can be as simple as a
large ceramic
resistor..etc. Or something more elaborate if you
wish..dozens of ideas
come to mind.
Remove glass from its
backing. If the backing is a sheet of plastic that
motors move..you
would have to find places to drill holes in the backing
plastic to
insert/glue your heating elements to the back of the mirror.
Look at the
defroster lines in your rear window..just resistance creating
a small amount
of heat..enough to melt snow/ice or evaporate mist in the
AM.
If we
choose to lose the mirrors off the racecar..I'll play with this..but
I probly
wanna keep the mirrors.
On Sun, 26 Nov 2000, Schilberg, Darren
wrote:
> I always thought it was an electrical connection. My
Legend had the same
> thing and if the mirror is angled far enough to one
side then you can see
> some electrical connections in there.
>
> In the middle of summer (100 degrees F) if you turn on the rear
defroster
> button then the mirrors also get hot. That means that
the air would need to
> be hotter than ambient to make it feel hotter than
the surrounding air -
> simple thermodynamics type of stuff.
>
> Also, why would they connect an electrical connection (the rear
window
> defroster) to a button that kicks in hot air? Just wouldn't
make sense.
> And there is no air ever hears piping to the back of the
mirror so it must
> be electrical.
>
> Sam, I think the air
connection you are looking at that goes from the side
> of the dash,
through the driver door is for the driver window defroster
> vent.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@freemarkets.com>
> 3Si #577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and
a custom spark plug plate
>
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Shelat [
mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
> Sent:
Sunday, November 26, 2000 06:36
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors
HOW?
>
> Hot air. Open the door and look at the side of the
dash, you will see the
> air connection. I believe it only works
when the defrost button on you
> climate control is on.
>
>
Sam
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George Shaw <
george.shaw@btinternet.com>
>
Date: Sunday, November 26, 2000 3:28 PM
>
> >Folks
>
>
> >A quick question. How do the rear view mirrors heat? Is it by
some
> >electrical connection? Or is it via hot air from the air-con
system? Reason
> >I ask is I want to replace the mirror (glass) with a
Gentex auto-dim rear
> >view system (
http://www.gentex.com) and need to know how the
current system
> >works.
>
>
> ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 17:39:37
-0500
From: "Bill Miller" <
millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: urgent car alarm help
The hatch switch is (I believe) part of the
latch. I don't have any pin switches in my rear hatch
area so it has to be
there... somewhere. If you have a pin switch then your's may be an aftermarket
switch or they may have changed it from 91 to your car's year.
My
hood switch is a normal pin switch on the drivers side right behind the head
light.
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
On 26 Nov 2000, at 13:02,
Schilberg, Darren wrote:
> I have found and fixed my door switches a
few months ago under routine
> cleaning.
>
> Also when fixing
the rear Active Aero (or attempting to) I cleaned out the
> two contacts
on the lift that is just a plastic cover over two plate screwed
> to the
hatch. Does this mate up with the other part on the body to make
the
> sensor that the trunk is open? Is it not a switch that pops up
near the
> latch to show that the gate is open?
>
> Also,
where is this on the hood? I think here is where I might have seen
>
the pop-up button (like determining when a turkey is done) but I would
like
> some confirmation. Thanks.
>
> --Flash!
>
dschilberg@freemarkets.com>
> 3Si #577
> 1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK, a Valentine One, and
a custom spark plug plate
>
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Miller [
mailto:millebi@kw.igs.net]
> Sent:
Sunday, November 26, 2000 12:30
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: urgent car alarm help
>
> If I may throw in my
2 cents worth on this, after you've done what Ken
> suggests put a little
grease
> on the contacts to stop them from corroding again. I did this
and it's been
> working fine for 4
> years now. Don't forget to
check the hatch switch and the hood switch too.
>
> Bill
> 91
TT "Old Red"
>
>
Humpty Dumpty was
pushed...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 00:29:45
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
> Hot air. Open the door and
look at the side of the dash, you will see the
> air connection. I
believe it only works when the defrost button on you
> climate control is
on.
No no, this is wrong !!! It is 100% electrical and coupled with the
rear
window defroster on all cars.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 00:33:20
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine size
> What years montero v6 block is
compatible?
None. Or what heads and engine mounts do you want to install
?? If yo uonly
want to put in the 3.6l engine... good luck
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 00:38:05
+0100
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Active Aero Disaster (Private)
> We don't have such a
page... Or a link on the FAQ pages (that I can
>
remember...)!
http://www.3si.org/activeaero.html
sorry, thought it is in our links ;-)
What about putting the AE switch
into off position until it is fixed ? Just
an idea
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 16:11:27
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Uhhh...Afraid not Roger.
It is NOT
100% electrical. When you have the AC in the defrost position, hot air DOES
enter the side mirrors from the upper AC vents.
Dan J
94 Stealth
TT
>>> "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> - 11/26/00
3:29 PM >>>
> Hot air. Open the door and look at the side
of the dash, you will see the
> air connection. I believe it only
works when the defrost button on you
> climate control is on.
No
no, this is wrong !!! It is 100% electrical and coupled with the rear
window
defroster on all cars.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 19:11:12
-0500
From: Michael Reid <
mreidis@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bad
Leakdown/Compression Test
I had my 94 Stealth TT engine compression and
leakdown tested
recently and the news was apparently bad. Can anyone help
with
some idea of what might be wrong and how expensive it might be
?
Here are the numbers:
Compression (psi):
(1) 120
(2)
125
(3) 105
(4) 120
(5) 120
(6) 125
Except for the marginal
(?) cylinder #3 (front right cyl from drivers'
perspective ?) these seem to
be reasonably good. Are they ? Are they
much higher with a new engine
?
Leakdown (%) TDC / BDC:
(1) 40 / 37
(2) 12 / 12
(3) 22 /
28
(4) 17 / 16
(5) 12 / 18
(6) 20 / 23
Cylinders #6 and #3 don't
look so hot here, but #1 (front left cyl from
drivers' perspective ?)
definitely appears to have problems. Is Cyl #1
the leanest and most likely to
have detonation issues ?
Neither performance or gas mileage have been
problems for me. My G-Tech
performance meter says I get a max of about 0.52
g's of acceleration in
2nd gear, 0.26 g's in 3rd, 0.17 in 4th and 0.14 in
5th.
The car and engine have almost 114,000 kilometers (71,000 miles) on
them.
I don't abuse the engine and generally use full throttle only on
highway
entrance ramps. I've had the car 5 years and beleive the original
owner
was pretty careful too. Most of the mileage is highway at 2000-2500
rpm;
perhaps it's carboned up from too little high RPM operation ?
The
car tends to get about 27 miles per imperial gallon ( 21.6 miles per
US
gallon) or about 10.4 litres per 100 kilometres in summer, spring and
fall.
I've often used the cheaper regular 87 octane gas and wonder if the
ECU
didn't hear detonation (bad sensor?), but I've never heard
pinging.
The engine has had very little maintenance done and has been
quite reliable.
The oil and filter (Mobil 1 10w30 and Mitsu/Dodge OEM) has
been changed about
every 9 months which is about every 7,500 kilometers /
4,700 miles for me;
I drive only about 10,000 kilometers / 6,250 miles per
year and the car
often sits for 1-2 weeks at a time.
The car is stock
except for HKS exhaust and HKS SuperPowerFlow (?) air filter
with the double
mushroom elements. (No HKS VPC as far as I know.) The filter
wasn't cleaned
at all the last four years; I cleaned it today although I think
I'm supposed
to replace the elements every 6,000 miles (?).
There is still a few
grains of sand, wind-blown from the Florida beaches from
a trip 4 years back.
I wonder if some sand got into the air filter/intake or
ended up mixing with
the oil somewhere.
Anyway I tried a cheap possible fix by having a
Bilstein fuel system flush
(like Motorvac) done which is supposed to be able
to clean intake valve
and combustion chamber carbon deposits, among other
things. No difference
in drivability or performance on the G-Tech perf.
meter.
I'll probably get another shop to do a leakdown test on the 3
easy front
cylinders at least, to see if it's better or if the first shop was
mistaken.
Any suggestions ? I'd love to keep the car for 2-3 years or
"forever" but
don't want to make this car a money-hole.
Any ideas if
this might be something cheap or do I have bottom end or
valve-train damage
or both ? How expensive might this get ?
I wonder if there's a cheap way
to get the transaxle or transfer
case output shaft checked while I'm at it
?
Thanks for any help,
Mike Reid.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 18:15:32
-0600
From: "cody" <
overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Sorry, but I have to agree with Roger
here. That air is only for the
interior window, not the exterior
mirror.
- -Cody
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Daniel Jett
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 6:11 PM
To:
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Uhhh...Afraid not Roger.
It is
NOT 100% electrical. When you have the AC in the defrost position, hot
air
DOES enter the side mirrors from the upper AC vents.
Dan J
94 Stealth
TT
>>> "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> - 11/26/00
3:29 PM >>>
> Hot air. Open the door and look at the side
of the dash, you will see the
> air connection. I believe it only
works when the defrost button on you
> climate control is on.
No
no, this is wrong !!! It is 100% electrical and coupled with the rear
window
defroster on all cars.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 17:32:00
-0700
From: "Matthew H. Fogle" <
foglem@t-three.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Ditto, I just took my doors off for speaker
replacment, the vents do NOT
go anywhere but to the defrost vent on the door
panel.
cody wrote:
>
> Sorry, but I have to agree with Roger
here. That air is only for the
> interior window, not the exterior
mirror.
>
> -Cody
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Daniel Jett
> Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 6:11 PM
>
To:
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
>
> Uhhh...Afraid not
Roger.
>
> It is NOT 100% electrical. When you have the AC in the
defrost position, hot
> air DOES enter the side mirrors from the upper AC
vents.
>
> Dan J
> 94 Stealth TT
>
>
>>> "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> - 11/26/00
3:29 PM >>>
> > Hot air. Open the door and look at the
side of the dash, you will see the
> > air connection. I believe
it only works when the defrost button on you
> > climate control is
on.
>
> No no, this is wrong !!! It is 100% electrical and coupled
with the rear
> window defroster on all cars.
>
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
www.rtec.ch>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 16:25:49
-0800
From: Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
Whoa!
My bad! Sorry to the list, I
was thinking WINDOWS, not mirrors...
Though I wonder if there is any
convection to the mirrors, come to think of it...
My
apologies,
Dan J
>>> Daniel Jett <
djett@corp.ultratech.com> -
11/26/00 4:11 PM >>>
Uhhh...Afraid not Roger.
It is NOT 100%
electrical. When you have the AC in the defrost position, hot air DOES enter the
side mirrors from the upper AC vents.
Dan J
94 Stealth
TT
>>> "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> - 11/26/00
3:29 PM >>>
> Hot air. Open the door and look at the side
of the dash, you will see the
> air connection. I believe it only
works when the defrost button on you
> climate control is on.
No
no, this is wrong !!! It is 100% electrical and coupled with the rear
window
defroster on all cars.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 17:48:50
-0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Engine size
Roger,
As has been stated previously, this has been
done at least twice that I am
aware of if not more. Someone here in the
US has done it but I cannot get
further details. The other site that
documents this procedure is the
well-known Japanese site. It is
somewhat old and do not have the URL at
hand but by now everyone with
interest should have seen it.
Obviously there is work involved, but it
isn't that bad compared to many
engine swap ventures. It wouldn't be
much worse (if at all) than adapting
non-Mitsu turbos to the engine.
Some have gone to the trouble of mounting
the 4G72 "the right way" in the
engine compartment and converting to RWD.
The Montero engine swap is WAY
easier than that.
The engine mounts are not a problem. The 3.6l
heads are slightly higher
than the 3.0l heads which raises hood clearance
issues. Lowering the engine
in the engine bay can be done fairly easily
by modifying the engine mounts.
A custom hood is another way to address
this.
The oil pan may also interfere with the transfer case. Again,
easily
addressed. Other than that it is about as close to a drop-in as
one can
reasonably expect.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> > What years montero v6 block is
compatible?
>
> None. Or what heads and engine mounts do you want to
install ??
> If yo uonly
> want to put in the 3.6l engine... good
luck :)
>
> Roger
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 19:22:02
-0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine size
The montero and Diamante motor are both 6G74
engines.
The 3000 heads will bolt on,
head gaskets are 1/2 the
thickness than the 3000 gaskets
Deck height is about 12mm taller (need to
measure to be sure)
Tranny will bolt up.
I'm unsure on the oil pan at
this point, it appears that the 94+ VR4 oil pan
will work on the block, I
need to pull my pan off the 3.0 to verify.
An interesting note, the
rods are similar in size/strength.
The piston pin location is
identical,
compression would be a touch lower with the 3.5 pistons in a
3.0l
block.(assuming 2.0mm overbore)
Pins are full floating in the 3.5l
motor.
As time permits, I'll have more data regarding the 3.5l
conversion in the
VR4.
Timing belt(which one to use) and lower
plenum (may need to fabricate one)
seem to be my only concerns at this
point.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Roger Gerl (RTEC)
Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 5:33 PM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Engine size
> What years montero v6 block is
compatible?
None. Or what heads and engine mounts do you want to install
?? If yo uonly
want to put in the 3.6l engine... good luck
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 21:44:04
-0500
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Heated mirrors HOW?
I also agree with Roger. I have had my mirrors
off to paint them with a
clear coat and the only holes in the door are for
the bolts to go through.
The vent hole in the side of the dash matches up
with the one the door and
it goes to the vent on the top of the door
panel.
I don't know why but my mirrors were not clear coated when I
purchased my 92
VR4, new in 92.
Dave Best
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew H. Fogle" <
foglem@t-three.com>
To: "Team3S"
<
team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Sunday, November 26, 2000 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors
HOW?
> Ditto, I just took my doors off for speaker replacment, the
vents do NOT
> go anywhere but to the defrost vent on the door
panel.
>
> cody wrote:
> >
> > Sorry, but I have
to agree with Roger here. That air is only for the
> > interior
window, not the exterior mirror.
> >
> > -Cody
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
> [
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Daniel Jett
> > Sent: Sunday, November 26, 2000 6:11
PM
> > To:
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW?
> >
> > Uhhh...Afraid
not Roger.
> >
> > It is NOT 100% electrical. When you have
the AC in the defrost position,
hot
> > air DOES enter the side
mirrors from the upper AC vents.
> >
> > Dan J
> > 94
Stealth TT
> >
> > >>> "Roger Gerl (RTEC)" <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch> - 11/26/00
3:29 PM >>>
> > > Hot air. Open the door and look at
the side of the dash, you will see
the
> > > air
connection. I believe it only works when the defrost button
on
you
> > > climate control is on.
> >
> > No
no, this is wrong !!! It is 100% electrical and coupled with the rear
>
> window defroster on all cars.
> >
> > Roger
> >
93'3000GT TT
> >
www.rtec.ch>
>
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 23:33:14
EST
From:
The68th@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Heated mirrors HOW? dan
-
--part1_4f.401b31a.27533e0a_boundary
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I
just checked my car (1992 stealth) because you were all bichering
about=20
this. =A0On my car it IS 100% electrical. =A0The side vents go, and
only go,=
to=20
the driver and passenger window, not the mirror.
=A0So I got interest, does=20=
it=20
split off inside? =A0So I took my
door apart, and no, it doesn't. =A0But wir=
ed do=20
run to the mirrors.
=A0So on my car it is 100% electrical. =A0So I took apar=
t my=20
mirror,
same there.
Chris
1992 Stealth ES
sorry Dan
> It is NOT 100%
electrical. When you have the AC in the defrost position, h=
ot
> air
DOES enter the side mirrors from the upper AC vents.
>=20
> Dan
J
> 94 Stealth TT
-
--part1_4f.401b31a.27533e0a_boundary
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="ISO-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<HTML><FONT SIZE=3D2>I just checked my
car (1992 stealth) because you were=20=
all bichering about <BR>this.
=A0On my car it IS 100% electrical. =A0The sid=
e vents go, and only go, to
<BR>the driver and passenger window, not the mir=
ror. =A0So I got
interest, does it <BR>split off inside? =A0So I took my doo=
r apart,
and no, it doesn't. =A0But wired do <BR>run to the mirrors. =A0So o=
n
my car it is 100% electrical. =A0So I took apart my <BR>mirror, same
there=
.
<BR>Chris
<BR>1992 Stealth ES
<BR>sorry
Dan
<BR>
<BR>> It is NOT 100% electrical. When you have
the AC in the defrost posi=
tion, hot
<BR>> air DOES enter
the side mirrors from the upper AC
vents.
<BR>>=20
<BR>> Dan
J
<BR>> 94 Stealth
TT
<BR></FONT></HTML>
-
--part1_4f.401b31a.27533e0a_boundary--
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 26 Nov 2000 10:50:46
-0800
From: Richard <
radanc@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
bedding in porterfields
Outgassing procedure was listed on their website.
I know I have seen it.
Rich
92 Stealth tT
David Margrave
wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I just installed a new set of
cryto-treated porterfield rotors and
> porterfield carbon kevlar
pads. No directions came with the parts, and
> I'm wondering what
the bed-in procedure would be for this set-up?
> Something like lots of
hard breaking at low to mid speeds for the first
> 500 miles?
>
> Dave
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 09:17:26
+0100
From: "Mikael Kenson" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad
Leakdown/Compression Test
Hi,
Was the engine cold or warm when you
did the tests??
I had very strange testresults when I tested compression
and leakdown when
the engine was cold, after warmup the results was
perfect.
/Mikael Kenson
http://www.3000gt.nu- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Michael Reid" <
mreidis@home.com>
I had my 94 Stealth
TT engine compression and leakdown tested
recently and the news was
apparently bad. Can anyone help with
some idea of what might be wrong and how
expensive it might be ?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:06:35
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine size
>As has been stated previously, this has been
done at least twice that I am
>aware of if not more. Someone here in
the US has done it but I cannot get
>further details. The other site
that documents this procedure is the
>well-known Japanese site. It
is somewhat old and do not have the URL at
>hand but by now everyone with
interest should have seen it.
Please note, I haven't said that CAN'T be
done but I'm not aware of that
anybody dropped in a Montero block already
combined with 3000 specific parts.
>Obviously there is work involved,
but it isn't that bad compared to many
>engine swap ventures. It
wouldn't be much worse (if at all) than adapting
>non-Mitsu turbos to the
engine. Some have gone to the trouble of mounting
>the 4G72 "the
right way" in the engine compartment and converting to RWD.
>The Montero
engine swap is WAY easier than that.
Well, let him do it so
:)
>The engine mounts are not a problem. The 3.6l heads are
slightly higher
>than the 3.0l heads which raises hood clearance
issues.
Hmm,no I'd not take the Montero heads when the 3000 heads reall
bolt up
that easily !
>The oil pan may also interfere with the
transfer case. Again, easily
>addressed. Other than that it is
about as close to a drop-in as one can
>reasonably expect.
Well, if
the engine is aleready out then I'd say why not giving it a try if
it is a
simple drop in. So why then do people overbore the 3l engine and
not doing
the swap ? Would become cheaper when the bottom end is the same,
although
I'm not sure the bottom end is a 4bolt main in the Montero and the
heads
wouldn't fully bolt on properly.
The earlier Montero V6 had a 3497ccm
block and put out 215 hp / 226
lbs-ft (3l 6G72 today, same trq less hp
... at least here in EU). Now
turbocharging and putting the 3000GT heads
with its gaskets on it (1st or
2nd gen ?) "should" do the trick but there
are still too much unknowns so I
still wouldn't say that the are
"compatible" and the parts interchangeable.
The idea isn't bad at all,
although my Mitsu mechanic told me that the 3.5l
walls have not been treated
to withstand the more pressure of the
pistons/rings a turbocharged engine
would cause. Also the pistons should be
a longer design to withstand the
forces against their lips (you know, what
broke on my pistons a few years
ago). Of course good forged pistons should
be taken and the rods (also
forged) shoudl be smaller to get the same
combinaten prepared for the boost.
Otherwise oen will only be able to bosot
it up to 7-8psi before knock occurs
and the gain woudl be zero compared to
15 psi on our current
engine.
In my point of view this is still a little bit too close to try
& error and
some more research should be done, i.e. more details should
be cleared up
(also fuel / ignition maps).
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
www.rtec.ch***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:28:21
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad Leakdown/Compression Test
Mike, the cyls start with #1
the most left front one from the drivers
perspective and go one with the
oposite bank and so on.
As Mikael asked, it highly depends on the temp of
the engine. When cold the
results are ok although (3) is too deep for sure.
115 is the minimum they
should show (in cold). When hot (warm) the results
shoudl be bweteen 135
and 150psi.
Compression (psi):
>(1)
120
>(2) 125
>(3) 105
>(4) 120
>(5) 120
>(6)
125
>
>The car and engine have almost 114,000 kilometers (71,000
miles) on them.
>I don't abuse the engine and generally use full throttle
only on highway
>entrance ramps. I've had the car 5 years and beleive the
original owner
>was pretty careful too. Most of the mileage is highway at
2000-2500 rpm;
>perhaps it's carboned up from too little high RPM
operation ?
>
>The car tends to get about 27 miles per imperial
gallon ( 21.6 miles per
>US gallon) or about 10.4 litres per 100
kilometres in summer, spring and fall.
>I've often used the cheaper
regular 87 octane gas and wonder if the ECU
>didn't hear detonation (bad
sensor?), but I've never heard pinging.
The mileage you are runnign is
extremely good for a close to stock car. And
as you seem to baby your car
I'd not expect a bad thing but way too much
carbon buildup around the valve
seats. No, I doubt the detonation sensor is
bad as this will cause the check
engine light to come up. And no, if you
can hear pinging the engine it is
already too late. The engine reduces
timign from knock long before you can
hear it !
The oil and filter (Mobil 1 10w30 and Mitsu/Dodge OEM) has been
changed about
>every 9 months which is about every 7,500 kilometers /
4,700 miles for me;
This is good !
>The car is stock except for
HKS exhaust and HKS SuperPowerFlow (?) air filter
>with the double
mushroom elements. (No HKS VPC as far as I know.) The filter
>wasn't
cleaned at all the last four years; I cleaned it today although I
think
>I'm supposed to replace the elements every 6,000 miles
(?).
HKS elements are expensive but you may decide by your own as it
highly
depends on the area you drive the car.
>There is still a
few grains of sand, wind-blown from the Florida beaches from
>a trip 4
years back. I wonder if some sand got into the air filter/intake or
>ended
up mixing with the oil somewhere.
No, not the oil but into the air
intake. The HKS filters are the worst in
filtering (from japanese test a
year ago) but mostly the sand will stick in
the light oil cover o nthe
inside of the intercoolers and piping. If you
drive a lot in sandy or salty
regions (coasts) I'd not recommend the HKS
filters at all.
>Anyway
I tried a cheap possible fix by having a Bilstein fuel system flush
>(like
Motorvac) done which is supposed to be able to clean intake valve
>and
combustion chamber carbon deposits, among other things.
You should do a
good fuel system flush that goes directly into the fuel
rails.There is a
Mopar stuff that you put into the engine and let it soak
for a night. When
you then run the car again, holy smoke will come out and
often the seats of
the valves are cleared up and the compression rises.
>Any ideas if
this might be something cheap or do I have bottom end or
>valve-train
damage or both ? How expensive might this get ?
I'd not think about this
unless boost is increased on your car !
>I wonder if there's a cheap
way to get the transaxle or transfer
>case output shaft checked while I'm
at it ?
Cheap ? There is nothign cheap when a mechanic has to do the job.
The job
is totally different then doing anything on the
engine.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 14:22:19
+0000
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Active Aero Disaster (Private)
Come one! I'm not that bad
:)
That was the first thing I tried but I didn't even have to turn the car
on.
Once I touched the ignition with the key I got 3 long, loud screeches
from the
front. I pulled the fuse and all is well.
Now I have to
figure how much I need to re-mortgage the house for to get it
fixed. Balls.
And I was just about to start pumping up the engine.
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
"Roger Gerl (RTEC)" wrote:
>
http://www.3si.org/activeaero.html
sorry, thought it is in our links ;-)
>
> What about putting the AE
switch into off position until it is fixed ? Just
> an idea
;-)
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 07:40:03
-0800 (PST)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Flywheel fitment
Will a 95 VR4 flywheel fit a 92
vr4?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 10:14:11
-0600
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: urgent car alarm help
There is also an alarm sensor under the
hood. It is located near the fuse
box on the passenger side. It
has a rubber boot on it. Sometimes you can
just bend this sensor up a
little bit. Then when you close the hood, it
will depress all the
way. If this doesn't work, you can always unplug this
sensor, then it
will prevent your alarm from going off. If you do this and
clean the
sensors in the doors, it should cure the alarm
problem.
later,
Curt
CarParts at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html>From:
Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
>To:
devlin@jobe.net, Team3S Stealth <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: urgent car alarm help
>Date: Sat, 25 Nov 2000 07:11:42
-0500
>
>I just sent this message a few days ago, this IS the fix
for your
>problem!
>Good luck!
>Ken
>
>--------
Original Message --------
>Subject: Team3S: Alarm system FIX
>Date:
Fri, 17 Nov 2000 09:41:08 -0500
>From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
>Organization:
3SI Rochester
>To: 3SI Rochester <
3siroch@fdntech.com>,Team3S
Stealth
><
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
>Hello
everyone
>
>Hope this helps if anyone is having intermittent
problems with their
>alarm system. I found this out on my car, and then
tried it on one of
>the other cars in my group (Jason =) and it
worked! Here goes!
>
>If your alarm intermittently works, goes
off randomly, and especially if
>your dome light works intermittently, the
fix is sooo easy -
>
>Open each door, and in the lower rear part of
the body, there is the
>sensor that tells the car the door is
open/closed. It is just under a
>little rubber cover that slides
right off. This switch doesn't seem to
>ground well sometimes.
Pull it out (phillips screw), scrape up the
>contacts on it a little bit,
and put it back in being sure to snug up
>the screw tight - this is the
ground! Clean up any dirt, rust, etc too
>- that's real
important.
>
>Do it to both doors, then try the alarm again - bet it
will work!
>
>Give me feedback if you find this
works/doesn't!
>Thanks!
>
>Ken Stanton
>'91 Pearl White
RT/TT
>Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Get
more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download :
http://explorer.msn.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 11:12:57
-0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine size
The 6G72 heads bolt directly to the 6G74
block. The only thing that doesn't
bolt up is the lower intake plenum,
one would have to be modified/built to
make it work.
(I have one sitting
in my garage if you want to come see for yourself)
Bolting the 6G72 heads
to the Montero motor will bring the compression down
to a calculated 8.48:1
(note that stock compression is advertised 10.0:1, I
calculated
10.22:1)
The Montero motor I am using has 4 bolt mains, larger main and
rod bearings
(which will make it stronger)
I suspect the oil pan will
bolt up to the block, but I have not proven it
one way or the other. If
it doesn't, a little cutting & welding isn't an
issue.
Piston pins
and ring location is identical in the 6G74 engine. One "could"
simply
bolt a montero engine in, but I'd recommend at least ceramic coating
the
pistons.
As for the walls being "hardened" I would ask your
mechanic where that
information came from. Most mechanics shoot from
the hip when quoting
information like that. It is a nice way of telling
the customer, "I'm not
going to try it".
The 6g74 engine does not have
oil cooled pistons. I am looking at machining
the block to add the
squirters.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Roger Gerl
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 3:07 AM
To:
team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Engine size
>As has been stated previously, this has
been done at least twice that I am
>aware of if not more. Someone
here in the US has done it but I cannot get
>further details. The
other site that documents this procedure is the
>well-known Japanese
site. It is somewhat old and do not have the URL at
>hand but by now
everyone with interest should have seen it.
Please note, I haven't said
that CAN'T be done but I'm not aware of that
anybody dropped in a Montero
block already combined with 3000 specific
parts.
>Obviously there
is work involved, but it isn't that bad compared to many
>engine swap
ventures. It wouldn't be much worse (if at all) than
adapting
>non-Mitsu turbos to the engine. Some have gone to the
trouble of mounting
>the 4G72 "the right way" in the engine compartment
and converting to RWD.
>The Montero engine swap is WAY easier than
that.
Well, let him do it so :)
>The engine mounts are not a
problem. The 3.6l heads are slightly higher
>than the 3.0l heads
which raises hood clearance issues.
Hmm,no I'd not take the Montero heads
when the 3000 heads reall bolt up
that easily !
>The oil pan may
also interfere with the transfer case. Again,
easily
>addressed. Other than that it is about as close to a drop-in
as one can
>reasonably expect.
Well, if the engine is aleready out
then I'd say why not giving it a try if
it is a simple drop in. So why then
do people overbore the 3l engine and
not doing the swap ? Would become
cheaper when the bottom end is the same,
although I'm not sure the bottom end
is a 4bolt main in the Montero and the
heads wouldn't fully bolt on
properly.
The earlier Montero V6 had a 3497ccm block and put out 215 hp /
226
lbs-ft (3l 6G72 today, same trq less hp ... at least here in EU).
Now
turbocharging and putting the 3000GT heads with its gaskets on it (1st
or
2nd gen ?) "should" do the trick but there are still too much unknowns so
I
still wouldn't say that the are "compatible" and the parts
interchangeable.
The idea isn't bad at all, although my Mitsu mechanic
told me that the 3.5l
walls have not been treated to withstand the more
pressure of the
pistons/rings a turbocharged engine would cause. Also the
pistons should be
a longer design to withstand the forces against their lips
(you know, what
broke on my pistons a few years ago). Of course good forged
pistons should
be taken and the rods (also forged) shoudl be smaller to get
the same
combinaten prepared for the boost. Otherwise oen will only be able
to bosot
it up to 7-8psi before knock occurs and the gain woudl be zero
compared to
15 psi on our current engine.
In my point of view this is
still a little bit too close to try & error and
some more research should
be done, i.e. more details should be cleared up
(also fuel / ignition
maps).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 18:44:41
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine size
>The 6G72 heads bolt directly to the 6G74
block. The only thing that doesn't
>bolt up is the lower intake
plenum, one would have to be modified/built to
>make it work.
Why
exactly ? Hast the 6G74 block longer bores and therefore the piston
middle
on TDC is more far away ? I guess so. Now would come by beloved
project : a
composite intake manifold, hehe.
>(I have one sitting in my garage if
you want to come see for yourself)
Sure, just send me the ticket,
LOL.
>Bolting the 6G72 heads to the Montero motor will bring the
compression down
>to a calculated 8.48:1 (note that stock compression is
advertised 10.0:1, I
>calculated 10.22:1)
What pistons have
you used for this ?
>The Montero motor I am using has 4 bolt mains,
larger main and rod bearings
>(which will make it stronger)
Good !
It seems taht my information is wrong as the new 3l Montero hast he
larger
bearings and 4-bolt main while the 3.5 liter was only a two bolt
main. Im a
little confused right now but if it works then it works :)
>The 6g74
engine does not have oil cooled pistons. I am looking at
machining
>the block to add the squirters.
Yep, I suspected this so
it was my next question.
Brad, let us know how the procedures are going
on, but as I stated in the
beginning, it is not an easy bolt in or totally
compatible. Hmm,
interesting enough to look around if there is a Montero
around here ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 27 Nov 2000 12:55:38
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: re: team3s - SHIFTER PROBLEMS
Hi Ian,
> Does
anyone have any insights on this:
> My car is very tricky to get into
reverse (even after multi-clutching) and
> now the shifter will pass
beyond 5th (to the right of the 'gate'). If I'm
> not careful I'll push it
past 5th and miss the shift - (Oh the
> embarassment!).
> I've got
the six-speed Getrag and I've got a warranty but I don't think it's
>
actually the tranny.
Well if you want to attack things in order of cost,
first try replacing the
shift linkage bushings. This should be ~
$20. The shifter itself is only $60
or so and I think
http://www.buschurracing.com sells a
stock shifter with a
shortened stick for about $75. Bushings and
shifter are easy do-it-yourself
items.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
End of team3s V1
#334
*********************