Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth  Tuesday, September 18 2001  Volume 01 : Number 615




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 00:36:56 -0700
From: "Richard Kerrill" <rkerrill@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: reading dipstick -Checking oil level (was: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!)

Darren,
Thank you for bringing up this question!!  I look forward to any solutions.

I have recently experienced the SAME reading problem with the oil dipstick
as well.
It was hard to tell if it was low more than a quart or short just a quarter
quart - no matter which side of the dipstick is facing the front of the car.
Engine hot, turned off for fueling.   I have a '92 3000GT SL.

">However, if I turn the dipstick over (the two notches facing
>toward me) then there is oil on half the thickness of the dipstick and it
>goes up to about the 3/4 or Full mark.
>
>Does ANYBODY else experience this?  "

- -Rich Kerrill (RichK)
'92 white SL
(just threw a rod - looking for an engine.)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 02:50:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP

It looks like the ECM is using the "downstream" O2 sensors, the ones
after the pre-cats, to evaluate pre-cat performance. Gutting the
pre-cats or removing/disconnecting the downstream O2 sensors will
likely make the ECM unhappy. Has anyone gutted pre-cats on 2nd gen
car and left downstream O2 sensors in, or removed them? Are there any
problems with the ECM?

Francis,
Considering that 2nd gen DP are different than 1st gen, is your DP
made for your car? Have you talked to Stillen about this? If you give
them a call, would you also ask why there are no fuel pump upgrades
in their latest catalog? BTW, Stillen shows only one part, #503370,
that replaces all '91-99 3S downpipes. We know the 2nd gen DP are
different. Don't they? Here is what CAPS says.

All 1991-1993: MB810821 (no O2)
1994-1995 Fed. MB127473 (no O2?)
1994-end Calif and 1996-end Fed: MB925753 (w/ O2)

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com> wrote:
> Yes, you will have to weld in bungs for everything to remain happy.
>  Make
> sure you place them the same distance from the turbos as before, as
> how
> much heat they see, directly affects how well they perform..and how
> well
> your motor performs as well.
>
> On Mon, 17 Sep 2001, Morice, Francis wrote:
>
> > I just ordered a Borla catback and a Stillen DP and I was
> wondering what I
> > have to do with the 2 O2 sensors that are on the stock DP. Do I
> need to weld
> > bungs on the Stillen DP and the test pipe, or can I just not use
> them ? I
> > hope to be installing it this weekend, so any help would be
> greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Francis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 08:13:15 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: ULTIMATE way to gut a cat

Well, I guess you can call me the Cat Doctor, cuz I've cleaned out 4
sets of precats.  Meow.

I tried the long drill bit method, and it was a pain.  It took me about
30mins to get nowhere fast with the drill bit.  So, I reached in the
drawer and pulled out the routing bits, and went to town.

The front cat was a breeze, finished that in like 5 minutes.  When I
laid down to do the back cat, to the time I finished, it took me all of
15 mins the first time.  Here's how I do it:

These are all with routing bits!  I have a set, with 6 bits from 1/4" to
1".
1 - Take a mid size bit, bore a hole straight down the middle.
2 - With that same bit, drill 4 or 5 holes around the outside edges of
the cat, along the walls.
3 - Take a large bit, I usually try the 1", BRACE yourself, and slowly
rip down thru the middle again.  At this point, very large chunks
separate and pliers help to pull them out.  Continue ripping all around,
this size bit should rip the material right off the walls of the cat
easily.
4 - When the smoke clears, take your smallest bit and clean up any
leftovers on the wall.

Done!

Best of luck all,
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:24:55 -0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP

Jeff,

I have my precats gutted and yes, the ECM is not happy about it.  I get the
Check Engine light to come on.  There seems to be no pattern to it coming
on.  It could come on in 25 miles or 500 miles.  Although it does seem to
not come on as often if I let the car warm up to operating temp before
driving in it.

As for the Stillen DP, I ordered it from Dynamic Racing. I will be calling
Matt and talking to him about it.  I can't believe I am the only person with
96+ car that has ordered this, so something must have been done to the
design of that DP.  I will report what I hear from Matt later today.

Francis
'96 RT/TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 4:51 AM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP


It looks like the ECM is using the "downstream" O2 sensors, the ones
after the pre-cats, to evaluate pre-cat performance. Gutting the
pre-cats or removing/disconnecting the downstream O2 sensors will
likely make the ECM unhappy. Has anyone gutted pre-cats on 2nd gen
car and left downstream O2 sensors in, or removed them? Are there any
problems with the ECM?

Francis,
Considering that 2nd gen DP are different than 1st gen, is your DP
made for your car? Have you talked to Stillen about this? If you give
them a call, would you also ask why there are no fuel pump upgrades
in their latest catalog? BTW, Stillen shows only one part, #503370,
that replaces all '91-99 3S downpipes. We know the 2nd gen DP are
different. Don't they? Here is what CAPS says.

All 1991-1993: MB810821 (no O2)
1994-1995 Fed. MB127473 (no O2?)
1994-end Calif and 1996-end Fed: MB925753 (w/ O2)

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 08:58:25 -0400
From: "rjmsmail@swbell.net" <rjmsmail@swbell.net>
Subject: Team3S: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL

Hi guys,
Been off in Scotland for months but back in Houston now driving my 1994 3000gt SL (standard, 5-speed, all stock).  The problem I'm having is that it started "popping out of 4th gear", first only about once every few days of driving, now probably after maybe a minute or two in 4th gear.  It's been doing this for months now but I have been just skipping 4th gear because the dealer here said I was probably in need of a transmission overhaul it has about 95,000 miles on it and I admit, I haven't done much maintenance on it), around $2,000!  I was wondering if I am just on borrowed time with the other gears starting to mess up or if I am hurting anything by driving it this way, other than I stay in 3rd gear longer now, usually shifting to 5th gear around 4,000rpm.  I DO NOT rest my hand on the shifter while driving (although I have caught myself with my hand resting on it while idling at a stop), is it probably just worn bearings (synchros?), something that I can't fix by removin!
 g the shifter boot?   Thanks in advance for the advice.

Bob
Proud to Be an American:

http://www.angelfire.com/fl4/IceWalker/ATributetotheVictimsandFamily.html

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 18 Sep 2001 06:13:53 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: How to gut a Cat and dipstick issues

Question: I gutted my pre-cats and now when I let off the gas I get a crackling in the exhaust almost every time.  It sound very "rally car" but it makes my wife nervous.  Is this normal?  What is everyone elses' experience.

I am still chasing down a misfire when the engine is cold and I was not sure if this is a symptom of the misfire problem or if this was normal with gutted pre-cats.

I improved my pre-cats when the engine was out. I thought it was easy to modify the rear when I could hold it in my lap.  It is also much easier on your lungs not having all that crap drop into your face.

A helpfull tool is a drill bit extender which is a rod with a camp on one end to hold a drill bit. Just make sure you don't hit the oxygen sensor when using the extender.

P.S.  When I worked at Peterbilt we would calculate the dipstick length but because the tubes very long and twisted we would often just pour in the recommended amount of oil in the engine, insert the dipstick, measure the oil level and revise the print to make that the high mark on the dipstick. 

When I worked at a service station in high school I changed the oil in approximately 3000 cars.  I would check the oil after refilling. Fire the engine up for a few minutes, look for leaks, shut it down and check the oil agian. The oil level would drop by the capacity of the oil filter (we did not pre-fill)The amount of oil suspended in the engine was almost un-measurable.  Think about it, oil is ment to flow well and oil passages ment to have a gravity drain. not much oil is going to get stuck in your engine. and anyone who has tried to pre-fill the turbo oil lines during a swap will tell you that the oil drains right out.

P.P.S.  Distick level trick.  Wipe your distick off with cold water before checking.  When distick is hot the oil tends to spread easier.  Having the engine cold seems to help too. If the oil level still looks goofy clean the dipstick with carb cleaner or brake cleaner.  Even after doing all of this I still look at both sides of the dipstick because one side is always 1/2 quart higher on the VR-4.
I never check the oil when car is running because air bubbles in oil will make the level artificially high. also engine vibrations will cause the oil to slosh around making the oil level artificially high.  How much higher depends on engine and oil type so it is not very consistent from car to car.

Good Luck. 

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:48:06 -0400
From: "Volthause" <volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ways to Gut a Cat

Removing the active aero would reduce weight, as would replacing window
glass with lexan, and finding a way to remove the AWS system.

carpet, sound deadening, door panels, headliner... the list goes on.

Scott Holthausen
'94 VR4 (for sale)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Christopher Deutsch <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 12:04 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ways to Gut a Cat

> Cut off one arm and one leg, should shed ~30 pounds ;)
>
> Ooorrrr, remove the spare and replace with a can of fix a flat and a cell
> phone.  Remove the rear seat (and the passenger seat if you like).  Or
> replace seats with racing seats.  Lighter rims and tires are great since
> it's a spinning mass.  Carbon fiber hood (might as well do the arm and a
leg
> first).  Replace main cat with a test pipe, or just get a lighter
> aftermarket exhaust. Remove the stereo if you like.  Drive with an empty
> tank.  Nothing else I can think of that's cheap...
>
> Christopher
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Thomas Jeys" <tj@jeys.net>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2001 10:35 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Ways to Gut a Cat
>
>
> > What is the best way to gut my cat? Just take it out and shuv a big rod
> > through it?  Also, does anyone know of some advoce on wieght reduction
> that
> > won't cost me an arma and a leg?  Any advice as I prepare to do this
would
> > be welcome, thanks!!!
> >
> > T.J.
> > 1992 3000GT VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:17:14 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: O2 sensors and Stillen DP

The stillen DP should come with the bungs. It is designed to fit all 3000's
(TT) because the rear precat flange has 2 sets of holes, 1 for 91-93, and 1
for 94+. The difference between the 2 generations is that the rear precat
flange is offset (twisted) about 10 degrees from each other.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:41:21 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!

For what it is worth, my 93 stealth TT AWD has a dipstick with two notches
about half an inch apart.

Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 07:33:00 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ULTIMATE way to gut a cat

one thing that wasn't mentioned in this discussion --- wear eye
protection and body armor if you have it   :-) The rear cat is
usually done in place so you're on your back under it and this
stuff is a metallic honeycomb that breaks up into anything from
dust to inch long pieces. I used a balaclava [ painters hood ] and
goggles to protect my face and hair and a long sleeved shirt to
protect my arms.

        Jim Berry
=================================================

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S Stealth <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>

> Well, I guess you can call me the Cat Doctor, cuz I've cleaned out 4
> sets of precats.  Meow.
>
> I tried the long drill bit method, and it was a pain.  It took me about
> 30mins to get nowhere fast with the drill bit.  So, I reached in the
> drawer and pulled out the routing bits, and went to town.
>
> The front cat was a breeze, finished that in like 5 minutes.  When I
> laid down to do the back cat, to the time I finished, it took me all of
> 15 mins the first time.  Here's how I do it:
>
> These are all with routing bits!  I have a set, with 6 bits from 1/4" to
> 1".
> 1 - Take a mid size bit, bore a hole straight down the middle.
> 2 - With that same bit, drill 4 or 5 holes around the outside edges of
> the cat, along the walls.
> 3 - Take a large bit, I usually try the 1", BRACE yourself, and slowly
> rip down thru the middle again.  At this point, very large chunks
> separate and pliers help to pull them out.  Continue ripping all around,
> this size bit should rip the material right off the walls of the cat
> easily.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:43:44 -0600
From: Desert Fox <bigfoot@simmgene.com>
Subject: Team3S: Checking oil

My dipstick measures even on both sides. Do I have a defective car or
dipstick?

Flash: You shouldn't be hittin' the crack pipe prior to checking your oil
level!;-)

I used to run with the oil level at the full mark. However, after scouring
the web, it seems to me that the over-full situation is potentially much
more detrimental than being a quart low. I have read that oil circulation is
improved if the oil level is in between the full and low marks. Also 1 quart
less weight for those embarking on an automotive "diet".

Bueller? Bueller? Anybody care to comment?

I run Amsoil Series 2000 0-30 full synthetic. I change the FILTER every 3K
and top it off with fresh oil, to somewhere between the full and low marks
(no crosshatching on mine either). I do a full drain oil change every 6K or
so. Oil analysis has shown that I could even run longer between changes but
old habits die hard especially when talking about one of our dear 3KGT's.

I've been milking my clutch now for over 6K. No slippage in 1st or 2nd but
3rd through 5th require serious throttle control. I can however speed uphill
at over 120mph in 6th on cruise without any slippage. Strange... When I get
a new clutch, I'm sure it will be like riding a cruise missile!

- --
Paul/.
95 black 3000GT VR-4
98 VFR800F, TBR aluminum hi exit
formerly reasonable and prudent

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 11:47:03 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to gut a Cat and dipstick issues

Thanks, John.  Nobody is listening to me when I talk about checking it with
the engine running.  Think of it as finding the depth of water in a boiling
pot.  The bubbles are making it splash up but if you do it very quickly and
check it and then do it again then you will get two readings that are not
far off (and when this is your ONLY feasible reading then you take it).

As for the oil -- I will try it this morning while the car is still cold and
then clean the stick if necessary and try it again.  I was thinking that the
flat part is getting scraped off on the edge of the tube where it enters the
oil pan.  If so then I need to rotate the stick 90 degrees and have it
scrape the edge and not the face of the stick.  I don't think the stick
flexes when turned 90 degrees though.

And since my dipstick does not have cross-hatch marks on it the oil has no
texture to stick to so maybe I'll scribe some lines in it or buy a $4
aftermarket one.

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Monnin
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:14 AM

P.S.  When I worked at Peterbilt we would calculate the dipstick length but
because the tubes very long and twisted we would often just pour in the
recommended amount of oil in the engine, insert the dipstick, measure the
oil level and revise the print to make that the high mark on the dipstick.

When I worked at a service station in high school I changed the oil in
approximately 3000 cars.  I would check the oil after refilling. Fire the
engine up for a few minutes, look for leaks, shut it down and check the oil
agian. The oil level would drop by the capacity of the oil filter (we did
not pre-fill)The amount of oil suspended in the engine was almost
un-measurable.  Think about it, oil is ment to flow well and oil passages
ment to have a gravity drain. not much oil is going to get stuck in your
engine. and anyone who has tried to pre-fill the turbo oil lines during a
swap will tell you that the oil drains right out.

P.P.S.  Distick level trick.  Wipe your distick off with cold water before
checking.  When distick is hot the oil tends to spread easier.  Having the
engine cold seems to help too. If the oil level still looks goofy clean the
dipstick with carb cleaner or brake cleaner.  Even after doing all of this I
still look at both sides of the dipstick because one side is always 1/2
quart higher on the VR-4.
I never check the oil when car is running because air bubbles in oil will
make the level artificially high. also engine vibrations will cause the oil
to slosh around making the oil level artificially high.  How much higher
depends on engine and oil type so it is not very consistent from car to car.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 11:52:25 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Checking oil

Thanks, Paul.  This reminds me that the oil might be old and not want to
stick to the stick.  I'll try an oil change soon but I want to buy the
famous oil drain flip cap so next time it will be easier for me to do it
myself.  I also don't find anywhere where I can buy Redline synthetic (only
Valvoline, Mobil 1, etc.) and I need some "good" stuff for the car.  Maybe
I'll do an oil flush system thing with some cheap weight two times to get
all the stuff out and then fill with a good $9 a bottle synthetic.

I'll report back anything.

P.S. I was only hitting the crack pipe from all those people talking about
bungs on the O2 sensors (laugh).

- --Flash!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Desert Fox
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:44 AM

My dipstick measures even on both sides. Do I have a defective car or
dipstick?

Flash: You shouldn't be hittin' the crack pipe prior to checking your oil
level!;-)

I used to run with the oil level at the full mark. However, after scouring
the web, it seems to me that the over-full situation is potentially much
more detrimental than being a quart low. I have read that oil circulation is
improved if the oil level is in between the full and low marks. Also 1 quart
less weight for those embarking on an automotive "diet".

Bueller? Bueller? Anybody care to comment?

I run Amsoil Series 2000 0-30 full synthetic. I change the FILTER every 3K
and top it off with fresh oil, to somewhere between the full and low marks
(no crosshatching on mine either). I do a full drain oil change every 6K or
so. Oil analysis has shown that I could even run longer between changes but
old habits die hard especially when talking about one of our dear 3KGT's.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 09:29:31 -0700
From: "Richard Kerrill" <rkerrill@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: clutch adjustible?

I have a '92 SL manual drive.

Problem: The clutch must be firmly pressed all the way down to floor when
engaging first gear mostly also 2nd gear.  Otherwise, a bad meshing of gears
and sometimes a terrible grind occurs!   Additionally, often its hard to get
into Reverse.

Im worried this will cause undue harm to my sweet SL!

A mechanic told me there is no way to adjust the setting of the clutch pedal
or the amount of pressure required because it is hydrolic.
Is this true?  Any other options?   Is this symptomatic of any other
problems forthcoming?

The clutch was replaced once a couple years ago. Now I have about 30K of
132k miles on the new clutch.

- -RichK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:27:38 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: FW: Maverick October 12-14 Race and DE

for folks in the DFW area ...

> Subject: Maverick October 12-14 Race and DE
>
> Folks,

> The Maverick Region PCA Club Race and Driver Education event at Texas
> Motor Speedway in Fort Worth October 12-14 is starting to shape up well.
> We have aproximately 70 racers and 35 DE participants signed up so far.
> That leaves about 1 run group of space left.    There will be 4 run groups
> total.  Get your regidstrations in now for the track that's to  fast for
> CART.  The facts are available at pca.org//mav/driving_events.htm.
> Remenber all DE participants must be solo qualifyied, but not necessairly
> at this track.  We still would like to see some of our Houston area
> friends involved.  This event is a bargan.  We are the only group offering
> this type event at this great facility. 

> Bryan Henderson

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 10:26:44 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Only drained 2 qts engine oil during change!

Mine is the same as yours Flash. Just two notches. I  assumed all were like
this and it was a "racing/performance" dipstick made for the cars at the
factory ;-)) It doesn't matter if it is not crosshatched like you'd get in
your domestic run of the mill cars. As long as the full and low notches are
there, it's all you need. This is an original OEM dipstick BTW.

Darc

> My dipstick is not cross-hatched in the level oil area.  It just has two
> notches.  Is this some explanation of the difference?  Does Anyone have a
> plain dipstick with just two notches for the oil level?  I'd like to hear
if
> anyone else can justify this.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:23:18 -0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Can someone kindly look at this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595563614&
r=0&t=0
Is this a worthwhile kit to get?  Advantages to something else that might be
on the market?  My VR-4 is bone stock, and I'm not really planning on any
major modifications till my Typhoon is done.  But this seems like a
reasonable price, and if the kit sounds good to the majority of the list,
I'm thinking it might be a good place to start?
Opinions please : )

Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Auto Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and Hyundai
913-269-7365

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:30:35 -0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

I've got a 1991 Stealth ES with a twin turbo front brake conversion. The
calipers and hoses have about 130,xxx miles on them. I'm using Raybestos
pads (for now anyway) and stock TT rotors. I completely flushed and bled the
fluid at the pad change out (about 5000 miles ago) Recently, I've recently
noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power. I used to be able to lock
up the wheels (no ABS) without much effort.  But lately, the car just isn't
stopping very well.  When I'm parked, I can press on the brake pedal and
actually hear a creaking noise from the drivers side caliper.

Now so that everyone doesn't think I'm neglectful of my car, I wasn't
planning on keeping this recycled brake system this long.  I spent so much
money on my engine rebuild that I've had to put the brake upgrade off.  I've
got a set of Porterfield rotors that will be going on once I can afford some
R4S pads and braided lines (and some Motul, of course).  I guess the real
question is, am I looking at caliper damage? What are some things to look
for if I pull the pistons out of the caliper?  I'd love to swap out the TT
junk for a Big Red setup. But besides the initial cost, I'm concerned about
wheel clearance and the fact that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
have to replace right away. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If anyone has a pair of good condition 1G turbo calipers for sale, please
e-mail me privately.  Thanks.

Jeff VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:27:56 -0400
From: Curtis McConnel <CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK

I'm no expert but it seems a little pricey to me for just a filter. Doesn't
the 99 Eclipse turbo FIPK fit our cars with a little modification? They run
something like $90 for the whole kit.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gabriel Estrada [mailto:typhoonzz@earthlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 12:23 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Can someone kindly look at this link:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595563614&
r=0&t=0
Is this a worthwhile kit to get?  Advantages to something else that might be
on the market?  My VR-4 is bone stock, and I'm not really planning on any
major modifications till my Typhoon is done.  But this seems like a
reasonable price, and if the kit sounds good to the majority of the list,
I'm thinking it might be a good place to start?
Opinions please : )

Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Auto Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and Hyundai
913-269-7365

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:43:26 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

Before you do anything too serious, I suggest you inspect the pads and
bleed the brakes.
Rich

At 02:30 PM 9/18/01 -0400, Jeff VanOrsdal wrote:
>I've got a 1991 Stealth ES with a twin turbo front brake conversion. The
>calipers and hoses have about 130,xxx miles on them. I'm using Raybestos
>pads (for now anyway) and stock TT rotors. I completely flushed and bled the
>fluid at the pad change out (about 5000 miles ago) Recently, I've recently
>noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:54:48 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK

The real K&N FIPK is between $120 and $160 I think.  This is not that since
it is a cone and not an ellipse.  Regardless it is a good price.

However, this is an auction with 2+ days left so it will definitely not end
up at $70.  Good luck.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:02:07 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

Jeff -- Great questions.

Big Red calipers fit first gen cars inside stock 17" wheels.
Stock 2nd gen rotors fit Big Red calipers.
Stock 1st gen rotors will need exchanged or sold on the list.
Big Red calipers require stock Porsche pads or appropriate R4S pads.
The Big Red kit is worth it for the racy folks.

The noise could be all sorts of stuff.  Try it at speed, while creeping, on
jackstands, wheel off, wheel on, new pads, old pads, etc.  It could be the
dust shield, squeaking part on the stock pads, or a host of things.

I might have a line for 1st gen VR-4 calipers though if you or someone else
wants to go that route.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Big Reds

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff VanOrsdal
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:31 PM

Recently, I've recently
noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power. I used to be able to lock
up the wheels (no ABS) without much effort.  But lately, the car just isn't
stopping very well.  When I'm parked, I can press on the brake pedal and
actually hear a creaking noise from the drivers side caliper.

Now so that everyone doesn't think I'm neglectful of my car, I wasn't
planning on keeping this recycled brake system this long.  I spent so much
money on my engine rebuild that I've had to put the brake upgrade off.  I've
got a set of Porterfield rotors that will be going on once I can afford some
R4S pads and braided lines (and some Motul, of course).  I guess the real
question is, am I looking at caliper damage? What are some things to look
for if I pull the pistons out of the caliper?  I'd love to swap out the TT
junk for a Big Red setup. But besides the initial cost, I'm concerned about
wheel clearance and the fact that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
have to replace right away. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:05:22 -0500
From: Gabriel Estrada <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Well it is a dutch auction with 25 available at that price.  So, I hear you
saying it is a good price : )  But for someone that is doing limited
modifications, would you say it is a good kit to get?
Thanks,

Gabriel Estrada
Internet Sales Director
McCarthy Auto Group
Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and Hyundai
913-269-7365
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 1:54 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK

> The real K&N FIPK is between $120 and $160 I think.  This is not that
since
> it is a cone and not an ellipse.  Regardless it is a good price.
>
> However, this is an auction with 2+ days left so it will definitely not
end
> up at $70.  Good luck.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:31:31 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

The cheapest and easiest thing you can do to improve your braking is to buy
one half liter of Motul 650 and use it to bleed your brake system.  You
don't even have to remove the brake pads to do this, just put the car on
jack stands and remove the wheels.  If you've never done this to your car, I
bet your brake fluid looks like sewerage.

The second easiest thing you can do is to replace (at least) the front pads,
even if you just get stock pads. The noise you hear could be the wear
indicator onthe inboard pad. If you are going to this much trouble, consider
upgraded pads - I am currently using Carbotech Panther/Panther Plus on the
street and track and I think they're reasonably priced.  If you are doing
some track driving, don't bother with the Stillen Metal Matrix pads - they
are not that much improvement over stock.

Next thing you could do is reface the front rotors if you suspect they are
scored or warped.

The calipers are pretty durable - you could remove and rebuild them if you
want - you just need the seal kits.  If you go to the trouble of removing
and rebuilding the calipers, you may as well install the stainless steel
braided lines.

That's the litany of escalation for a stock brake system.  Of course you
could replace the front calipers and rotors with 2nd gen calipers and rotors
if you now have a 1st gen car. To go past this, you need a chunk of cash.

Chuck Willis

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:02 PM
> To: Team3s  Tech List
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
>
> Jeff -- Great questions.
>
> Big Red calipers fit first gen cars inside stock 17" wheels.
> Stock 2nd gen rotors fit Big Red calipers.
> Stock 1st gen rotors will need exchanged or sold on the list.
> Big Red calipers require stock Porsche pads or appropriate R4S pads.
> The Big Red kit is worth it for the racy folks.
>
> The noise could be all sorts of stuff.  Try it at speed, while creeping,
> on
> jackstands, wheel off, wheel on, new pads, old pads, etc.  It could be the
> dust shield, squeaking part on the stock pads, or a host of things.
>
> I might have a line for 1st gen VR-4 calipers though if you or someone
> else
> wants to go that route.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff VanOrsdal
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:31 PM
>
> Recently, I've recently
> noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power. I used to be able to lock
> up the wheels (no ABS) without much effort.  But lately, the car just
> isn't
> stopping very well.  When I'm parked, I can press on the brake pedal and
> actually hear a creaking noise from the drivers side caliper.
>
> Now so that everyone doesn't think I'm neglectful of my car, I wasn't
> planning on keeping this recycled brake system this long.  I spent so much
> money on my engine rebuild that I've had to put the brake upgrade off.
> I've
> got a set of Porterfield rotors that will be going on once I can afford
> some
> R4S pads and braided lines (and some Motul, of course).  I guess the real
> question is, am I looking at caliper damage? What are some things to look
> for if I pull the pistons out of the caliper?  I'd love to swap out the TT
> junk for a Big Red setup. But besides the initial cost, I'm concerned
> about
> wheel clearance and the fact that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
> have to replace right away. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:22:11 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Dutch auction?  Well then you got me.  It is a good mod but I have only seen
the elliptical ones (don't know the part number on that one).  Get it if you
want since it will let the car breathe better and that is a good thing.  The
only bad part is getting out the stock bolts inside the airbox that we have
all dealt with.  It could take 10 minutes or 60 minutes depending on how
lucky you get.

This is a simple mod probably detailed on Jeff Lucius' or John Adams' page I
believe.  It also gets the simple mechanic to get to know a little bit about
how the car pieces work together.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gabriel Estrada
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 3:05 PM

Well it is a dutch auction with 25 available at that price.  So, I hear you
saying it is a good price : )  But for someone that is doing limited
modifications, would you say it is a good kit to get?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 21:19:15 -0000
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

No, it's not a FIPK, nor an Aircharger. It's just the small cheap $45
airfilter core from K&N with the $19 and how much for shipping ?? Is it
worth the money ? No !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> The real K&N FIPK is between $120 and $160 I think.  This is not that
since
> it is a cone and not an ellipse.  Regardless it is a good price.
>
> However, this is an auction with 2+ days left so it will definitely not
end
> up at $70.  Good luck.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:23:01 EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Shifter pops out of 4th gear: 1994 3000gt SL

> is it probably just worn bearings (synchros?), something that I can't fix
by
> removing the shifter boot?

You might try removing the shift boot and tightening the linkage.  This has
helped many people fix their reverse gear.  You'll understand which linkage
when you take off the boot and move the stick around a little.  Good luck,

- -Paul - 3Si1127
Corbeau Race Seat Retailer
1992 Green RT/TT
    K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
    Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
    Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
    Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com, www.DiabloEnterprises.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:23:27 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

I think it is Motul 600 to those trying to search for it.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E.

The cheapest and easiest thing you can do to improve your braking is to buy
one half liter of Motul 650 and use it to bleed your brake system.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:39:08 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: clutch adjustible?

That is the biggest lie in the automotive industry - spread by Mitsu factory
trained service personnel!

Look in the Service manual - you CAN adjust where the clutch engages - it is
just a royal pain in the rump.  You have to get under the dashboard under
the pedals and turn a shaft that actuates the clutch booster.

You need a good clutch shop who will check your slave cylinder and master
cylinder and properly adjust your clutch.

Chuck Willis

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Kerrill [SMTP:rkerrill@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:30 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: clutch adjustible?
>
> I have a '92 SL manual drive.
>
> Problem: The clutch must be firmly pressed all the way down to floor when
> engaging first gear mostly also 2nd gear.  Otherwise, a bad meshing of
> gears
> and sometimes a terrible grind occurs!   Additionally, often its hard to
> get
> into Reverse.
>
> Im worried this will cause undue harm to my sweet SL!
>
> A mechanic told me there is no way to adjust the setting of the clutch
> pedal
> or the amount of pressure required because it is hydrolic.
> Is this true?  Any other options?   Is this symptomatic of any other
> problems forthcoming?
>
> The clutch was replaced once a couple years ago. Now I have about 30K of
> 132k miles on the new clutch.
>
> -RichK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:40:43 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

Darn it,  Flash, I was within 10%!

Just don't use the Motul DOT 5.1 ...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darren Schilberg [SMTP:dschilberg@pobox.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:23 PM
> To: Team3s Tech List
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises
>
> I think it is Motul 600 to those trying to search for it.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Willis, Charles E.
>
> The cheapest and easiest thing you can do to improve your braking is to
> buy
> one half liter of Motul 650 and use it to bleed your brake system.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:21:39 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

The Big Reds in 1st Generation stock wheels  will also need  hub
modification. They just don't fit without this spacer. Rich or Ken can
advise.

Darc

> Jeff -- Great questions.
>
> Big Red calipers fit first gen cars inside stock 17" wheels.
> Stock 2nd gen rotors fit Big Red calipers.
> Stock 1st gen rotors will need exchanged or sold on the list.
> Big Red calipers require stock Porsche pads or appropriate R4S pads.
> The Big Red kit is worth it for the racy folks.
>
> The noise could be all sorts of stuff.  Try it at speed, while creeping,
on
> jackstands, wheel off, wheel on, new pads, old pads, etc.  It could be the
> dust shield, squeaking part on the stock pads, or a host of things.
>
> I might have a line for 1st gen VR-4 calipers though if you or someone
else
> wants to go that route.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Big Reds
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff VanOrsdal
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:31 PM
>
> Recently, I've recently
> noticed a serious decrease in my stopping power. I used to be able to lock
> up the wheels (no ABS) without much effort.  But lately, the car just
isn't
> stopping very well.  When I'm parked, I can press on the brake pedal and
> actually hear a creaking noise from the drivers side caliper.
>
> Now so that everyone doesn't think I'm neglectful of my car, I wasn't
> planning on keeping this recycled brake system this long.  I spent so much
> money on my engine rebuild that I've had to put the brake upgrade off.
I've
> got a set of Porterfield rotors that will be going on once I can afford
some
> R4S pads and braided lines (and some Motul, of course).  I guess the real
> question is, am I looking at caliper damage? What are some things to look
> for if I pull the pistons out of the caliper?  I'd love to swap out the TT
> junk for a Big Red setup. But besides the initial cost, I'm concerned
about
> wheel clearance and the fact that I have a set of unused rotors that I'd
> have to replace right away. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 15:36:07 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

> The Big Reds in 1st Generation stock wheels  will also need
> hub modification. They just don't fit without this spacer.
> Rich or Ken can advise.

BS.  I transplanted my own Big Red calipers, 2nd gen rotor, and race pads to
a friend's 1992 VR-4 and he used them at Watkins Glen.  Stock hub.  The only
thing that might make a difference is that I had him use my 1999 SL 17"
wheels.  I think though that all wheels have the same offset (46mm I think)
so 1st gen 17" wheels should be the same.  Wouldn't that confirm that Big
Reds fir 1st gen and stock wheels?  Rich Merritt had these on his car and
then added spacers but had them without spacers before.

- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 w/ Big Reds and 1999 SL 17" wheels for racing

- -----Original Message-----
From: Darc [mailto:wce@telus.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 3:22 PM

The Big Reds in 1st Generation stock wheels  will also need  hub
modification. They just don't fit without this spacer. Rich or Ken can
advise.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:40:38 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Go to the FAQ pages, in the Maintenance Section and click on the Article
marked "Air Filters - Stock vs Aftermarket".  Much info there about K&N and
other filters.  Most of us have the K&N FIPK, since they are street legal
and come with a CARB label (and they are the best, in the opinion of many of
us).  www.Team3S.com/FAQ.htm

Best,

Forrest

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 11:23 AM
Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK

> Can someone kindly look at this link:
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=595563614&
> r=0&t=0
> Is this a worthwhile kit to get?  Advantages to something else that might
be on the market?  My VR-4 is bone stock, and I'm not really planning on any
major modifications till my Typhoon is done.  But this seems like a
reasonable price, and if the kit sounds good to the majority of the list,
I'm thinking it might be a good place to start?  Opinions please : )
> Gabriel Estrada

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 13:42:20 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

- --------

+> > The Big Reds in 1st Generation stock wheels  will also need
+> > hub modification. They just don't fit without this spacer.
+> > Rich or Ken can advise.
+>
+> BS.  I transplanted my own Big Red calipers, 2nd gen rotor, and race pads to
+> a friend's 1992 VR-4 and he used them at Watkins Glen.  Stock hub.  The only
+> thing that might make a difference is that I had him use my 1999 SL 17"
+> wheels.  I think though that all wheels have the same offset (46mm I think)
+> so 1st gen 17" wheels should be the same.  Wouldn't that confirm that Big
+> Reds fir 1st gen and stock wheels?  Rich Merritt had these on his car and
+> then added spacers but had them without spacers before.

nope.  1st gen 17" wheels are different than 2nd gen 17" wheels regarding
clearance issues.  As I recall, Rich has aftermarket Mille Miglia wheels.

Dave
= 95 Black 3000GT VR4 =
= 87 Mica Red GTI G60 =    http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/cars.html
= There is no spoon.. =

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:42:21 -0500
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Gabe,

I think you will be happy with this mod.  The air filter is generally
considered the first mod one should do.  Now, that was the easy part - now
on to the filter itself.

I am guessing that the picture does not depict the filter you will get.  It
does say that the adapter is included.  To my knowledge there are only two
filter kits made by K&N that have adapters that fit our cars:

57-1500 is the real F.I.P.K
63-1000 Aircharger kit for DSM cars.

Both fit our cars.  The FIPK has been CARB certified.  My understanding is
that it does not matter in most states.  If the CARB certification is of no
importance to you, then you can get by with the Aircharger 63-1000.  This
kit is intended for DSM cars, and it is not CARB certified.

I would recommend that you ask the seller what the K&N part number is.  If
it is not one of the two I listed you can go to http://www.knfilters.com/ to
cross reference the part number.

As for pricing - the FIPK retails for around $150, the Aircharger around
$80-90 if you can find it.  If this auction turns out to be for some other
filter you are most likely not getting a good price.

Oskar

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
To: <dschilberg@pobox.com>; "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK


> Well it is a dutch auction with 25 available at that price.  So, I hear
you
> saying it is a good price : )  But for someone that is doing limited
> modifications, would you say it is a good kit to get?
> Thanks,
>
> Gabriel Estrada
> Internet Sales Director
> McCarthy Auto Group
> Chevrolet, Oldsmobile, Mitsubishi, Nissan and Hyundai
> 913-269-7365
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
> To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 1:54 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK
>
>
> > The real K&N FIPK is between $120 and $160 I think.  This is not that
> since
> > it is a cone and not an ellipse.  Regardless it is a good price.
> >
> > However, this is an auction with 2+ days left so it will definitely not
> end
> > up at $70.  Good luck.
> >
> > --Flash!
> > 1995 VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:46:22 -0500
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: More on K&N

Forwarding an e-mail Jeff Lucius sent out back in February.  Excellent
description of the various K&N filters for our cars.

Oskar

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2001 10:31 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Picture of an installed K&M Filtercharger needed (OFF
TOPIC)

> K&N Filtercharger (part #33-2045) - This is a direct replacement for
> the factory "box-shaped" air filter. The stock air box and funnel
> remain in place.
>
> K&N Aircharger (part #63-1000) - Made for the 95-99 DSM Turbo but
> fits all 3S factory MAS units. It has a bolt in the end cover for
> your (optional) fabricated mounting bracket. It is about 1 inch
> longer than the FIPK, and replaces the stock air box and funnel using
> an adapter to connect to the MAS.
>
> K&N FIPK (part #57-1500) - (Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit)
> Made for all year 3S cars, it has 2 brackets made for the 3S with no
> weird bolt sticking out of the end cover. It is a bit shorter than
> the Aircharger. It may have a CARB sticker. It replaces the stock air
> box and funnel using an adapter to connect to the MAS.
>
> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius2/j2-2-k&nguide.htm
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 14:51:36 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

> I think though that all wheels have the same offset (46mm I think)
>so 1st gen 17" wheels should be the same.  Wouldn't that confirm that Big
>Reds fir 1st gen and stock wheels?  Rich Merritt had these on his car and
>then added spacers but had them without spacers before.
>
Yes I did, but I have a 94. I don't think Big Reds fit 1st gen wheels.
Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 22:01:46 -0000
From: "Roger Gerl" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

I think you will not be happy with this mod as the thing you want to buy on
ebay is NOT A FIPK at all ! It steals power due to the fact that it is the
little filter core for up to 2l engines. If one of you guys don't believe me
than buy one. It comes with a oval to round adapter for any round filter
core. This has NOTHING to do with the FIPK nor the Aircharger as it is much
smaller in it size. Unfortunately, I cannot send any pics as I have thrown
away the adapter due to its bad quality.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
To: "Team3S" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

> Gabe,
>
> I think you will be happy with this mod.  The air filter is generally
> considered the first mod one should do.  Now, that was the easy part - now
> on to the filter itself.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 16:18:17 -0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odd brake caliper noises

Ahhh.  Well that solves it.  Sorry to confuse everyone.  Next time I will
stick to my own car's info.  :)

- --Flash! and second gen VR-4 owner

- -----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 3:52 PM

I don't think Big Reds fit 1st gen wheels.

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End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #615
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