Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Tuesday, September 25 2001
Volume 01 : Number
625
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 25 Sep 2001 00:50:46 -0700
From: "Richard Kerrill" <
rkerrill@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: SL engine problem
Hi Team3S,
I hope this doesnt sound too
trivial.. but, Id love to hear from anyone
else who has had a similar
experience and suggestions as far as what the
best resolutions and causes
are..
The EVENT:
I was driving in the desert between LasVegas and Los
Angeles -at highway
speeds- when all of a sudden an under the carriage flap
noise occured with
visible white smoke pouring out of both sides of the
front wheel wells. I
had no brakes as I realized the engine had quickly
stalled out. I came to a
rest and found smoke under the hood and
looking under the car flames
starting on the exhaust in the center of the car
below the engine more near
the firewall. The flames were kept at bay
pouring from a gallon of water 3
times - trying not to hit the engine
block.
When all settled, (I guess I was in shock and hoping for a possible
fantasy
miracle), I turned the key one more time to hear the engine turn and
quickly
become what sounded like the winding of an engine belt had just
slipped off.
Dead cell phone zone, Time to hike for help 30 miles away from
nearest
town!.
VISUAL Inspection:
After towing and inspection, I
found a hole in the upper oil pan about the
size of a baseball, at about
center, towards the dashboard, just right
(passenger side) and just below the
bolts holding the pan on. I can see
some scratches inside one
cylinder. And a one inch square metal bar
horizontal at the rear end
wall of the oil pan, across the bottom of the oil
pan hole.
(is this a
piston rod? or a support inside the oil pan? - It didnt move
at
touch.)
Q1: Is there anything other than a thrown rod that would do
this?
History FACTS:
Top end was rebuilt by a dealer about 4 years ago
after a timing belt
slipped? (cause unknown) It has had a lazy lifter
ever since and still
burned a quart
of oil every 1-2 months. I added
a quart of 20/50 oil just before leaving
and it may have been a bit
over-filled. About 130k miles on this '92 SL.
Q2: Is it possible
anything might have gotten stuck or, punctured the oil
pan
to cause this
or is it more likely just an unavoidable engine failure.??
Q3: Is it
better to have someone rebuild the engine or, just replace it with
a Japanese
30k replacement??
Any recommendations for a dependable used engine would
be appreciated as
well. !!
- -RichK
'92 3000GT SL white
Las
Vegas, NV
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 01:21:38
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: SL engine problem
When my engine blew in my 91 ES I ordered a
rebuilt long block from ATK
engines I think. Reasonably priced, however the
engine did still have
lifter noise even though they had rebuilt it. If I had
to do it again, I
would probably rebuild a different engine myself and make
sure
everything was done right.
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer
Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com-
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Richard Kerrill
Sent:
Tuesday, September 25, 2001 12:51 AM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: SL engine problem
Hi Team3S,
I hope this doesnt sound too
trivial.. but, Id love to hear from anyone
else who has had a similar
experience and suggestions as far as what the
best resolutions and causes
are..
The EVENT:
I was driving in the desert between LasVegas and Los
Angeles -at highway
speeds- when all of a sudden an under the carriage flap
noise occured
with visible white smoke pouring out of both sides of the
front wheel
wells. I had no brakes as I realized the engine had quickly
stalled
out. I came to a rest and found smoke under the hood and
looking under
the car flames starting on the exhaust in the center of the car
below
the engine more near the firewall. The flames were kept at bay
pouring
from a gallon of water 3 times - trying not to hit the engine
block.
When all settled, (I guess I was in shock and hoping for a
possible
fantasy miracle), I turned the key one more time to hear the engine
turn
and quickly become what sounded like the winding of an engine belt
had
just slipped off. Dead cell phone zone, Time to hike for help 30
miles
away from nearest town!.
VISUAL Inspection:
After towing and
inspection, I found a hole in the upper oil pan about
the size of a baseball,
at about center, towards the dashboard, just
right (passenger side) and just
below the bolts holding the pan on. I
can see some scratches inside one
cylinder. And a one inch square metal
bar horizontal at the rear end
wall of the oil pan, across the bottom of
the oil pan hole. (is this a piston
rod? or a support inside the oil
pan? - It didnt move
at
touch.)
Q1: Is there anything other than a thrown rod that would do
this?
History FACTS:
Top end was rebuilt by a dealer about 4 years ago
after a timing belt
slipped? (cause unknown) It has had a lazy lifter
ever since and still
burned a quart of oil every 1-2 months. I added a
quart of 20/50 oil
just before leaving and it may have been a bit
over-filled. About 130k
miles on this '92 SL.
Q2: Is it possible
anything might have gotten stuck or, punctured the
oil pan to cause this or
is it more likely just an unavoidable engine
failure.??
Q3: Is it
better to have someone rebuild the engine or, just replace it
with a Japanese
30k replacement??
Any recommendations for a dependable used engine would
be appreciated as
well. !!
- -RichK
'92 3000GT SL white
Las
Vegas, NV
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:57:24
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: How low of boost pressure is too low?
Jon,
I was
just OTR yesterday. Actually, I do the smae thing. I have a
ProfecB
dual solenoid boost controller with two settings. I tool around
town in the
low boost position around 9 psi (if my memory is working with 1/2
cup
coffee) and drive at the track (or such) in the second setting at 14.7
psi.
As a matter of fact, I have a little remote control for the ProfecB
that you
wear on your finger so you can switch without letting go of the
steering
wheel, just in case you need to smoke someone's
butt.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nemisis
[SMTP:nemisis@vci.net]
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001 3:24 PM
>
To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Re: How low of boost pressure is too
low?
>
> I dont know what started the hostility.. I DO use
the turbos.. it's just
> that on a regular day.. with gas up as high as it
is.. I can't be getting
> less than 15mpg. I don't see whats so
wrong with wanting to save money..
> and just turn it up when you need
performance.
>
> Jon
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 09:50:09
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: 3S-Racers: (snip) STOLEN handling chart
maybe someday I will
actually understand it ...
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Bob Forrest [SMTP:bf@bobforrest.com]
> Sent: Monday, September 24, 2001
6:39 PM
> To: 'Geoff Mohler'; Team3S
> Cc:
3sracers@speedtoys.com> Subject:
3S-Racers: (snip) STOLEN handling chart
>
> We stole it first (from
BF Goodrich at Tire Rack). :-)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:44:09
-0400
From: "Payne, Scott" <
SPayne@hunton.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Gtech- Pro
Just got my new toy. A GTech-pro and had a few questions.
I
have a 94 Stealth Twin Turbo with K&N Fliter Charger Kit as my only
mod.
I entered in a weight of 4119 lbs. That is my first question. I got
this
weight from the drivers side door panel and subtracted 180 lbs per
missing
passager as instructed by Gtech. This weight sounds high to
me.
Second question is what HP numbers have you guys come up with? I average
275
HP according to Gtech. That sounds really low to me. Although one time
it
did read 295. What method do you guys use to get HP readings from
your
Gtech's? I simply accelerate to 6500 RPM's in 1st and second gear. I
never
hit 6500 RPM's in 3rd because my speed exceeds 120 MPH which is where
Gtech
cuts out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:51:22
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold/turbo bolts
I recently had an exhaust leak
between the block and exhaust
manifold. Upon attempting to remove this
the bolts that hold the manifold
to the turbo were seized up. These
bolts are the ones in a triangle
pattern. It took well over 200 Nm of
force to break them. Finally, I
managed to get two of them free w/ a
breaker bar. However, the third one
(rear one), due to an incredible
difficulty getting to it could not be
freed. The only way to get a
socket on it was to use a universal joint
(of which I broke one of them
trying) and I could not get a box wrench or
other in there. What ended
up happening is the bolt head and about 1
centimeter of the shaft broke off,
just above the threads. Fortunatly, it
was low enough that I could get
the manifold off and take the turbo
out. But now I have about 4mm of
shaft coming out of the turbo and I need
to get it out w/out damaging the
threads on the turbo.
Any ideas? I really need to get this
done, as I cannot put the car back
together until this is
fixed.
Thanks,
Chris Cook
1992 3000GT VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 11:01:06
-0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Gtech- Pro
The weight sounds about right. A friend of mine weighed
his 91 Stealth TT
with himself, a subwoofer box and a half tank of gas and
came out to 4080
lbs. I wouldn't take the HP estimate too seriously. I
doubt the GTech has a
built in correction for AWD losses.
Jeff
VanOrsdal
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Payne, Scott
Sent: Tuesday,
September 25, 2001 10:44 AM
To: Team3S (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Gtech-
Pro
Just got my new toy. A GTech-pro and had a few questions.
I have a
94 Stealth Twin Turbo with K&N Fliter Charger Kit as my only mod.
I
entered in a weight of 4119 lbs. That is my first question. I got this
weight
from the drivers side door panel and subtracted 180 lbs per missing
passager
as instructed by Gtech. This weight sounds high to me.
Second question is
what HP numbers have you guys come up with? I average 275
HP according to
Gtech. That sounds really low to me. Although one time it
did read 295. What
method do you guys use to get HP readings from your
Gtech's? I simply
accelerate to 6500 RPM's in 1st and second gear. I never
hit 6500 RPM's in
3rd because my speed exceeds 120 MPH which is where Gtech
cuts
out.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:14:27
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gtech- Pro
Go to a moving company that has public scales for
vehicles. Pay them about
$5 and you will find out what the REAL weight
is for your car. Significant
differences will occur for you being in
the car and depending how much
gasoline you have loaded in the car. The
Service manual lists the unloaded
curb weight. I am surprised if the
side panel includes a driver and
passenger. I guestimate 3800# curb
weight + 200#driver = 4000# so you are
definitely in the ball park.
Yes, 2 tons!
> I entered in a weight of 4119 lbs. That is my first
question. I got this
> weight from the drivers side door panel and
subtracted 180 lbs per missing
> passager as instructed by Gtech. This
weight sounds high to me.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:18:58
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust manifold/turbo bolts
somebody posted yesterday about
soaking exhaust bolts with penetrating oil
over night. Then you are
going to have to grab the remaining threaded shaft
with vise grips or maybe a
pipe wrench to get them to turn. Another approach
is to carry it to a machine
shop and ask them to extract it before you break
the reat of the bolt off.
Good luck!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Cook
[SMTP:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
> Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 9:51
AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust manifold/turbo
bolts
>
> I recently had an exhaust leak between the block and
exhaust
> manifold. Upon attempting to remove this the bolts that
hold the manifold
> to the turbo were seized up. These bolts are the
ones in a triangle
> pattern. It took well over 200 Nm of force to
break them. Finally, I
> managed to get two of them free w/ a
breaker bar. However, the third one
> (rear one), due to an
incredible difficulty getting to it could not be
> freed. The only
way to get a socket on it was to use a universal joint
> (of which I broke
one of them trying) and I could not get a box wrench or
> other in
there. What ended up happening is the bolt head and about 1
>
centimeter of the shaft broke off, just above the threads. Fortunatly,
it
> was low enough that I could get the manifold off and take the
turbo
> out. But now I have about 4mm of shaft coming out of the
turbo and I need
> to get it out w/out damaging the threads on the
turbo.
>
> Any ideas? I really need to get this done,
as I cannot put the car back
> together until this is fixed.
>
> Thanks,
> Chris Cook
> 1992 3000GT
VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 11:09:06
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust manifold/turbo bolts
I thought about doing
that. I have the turbo off so it is easy to take
somewhere. I'm
just a little concerned about taking having someone work
on it due to a fear
of having metal bits getting into it. But that may be
the best
option.
On Tue, 25 Sep 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
somebody posted yesterday about soaking exhaust bolts with penetrating
oil
> over night. Then you are going to have to grab the remaining
threaded shaft
> with vise grips or maybe a pipe wrench to get them to
turn. Another approach
> is to carry it to a machine shop and ask them to
extract it before you break
> the reat of the bolt off. Good luck!
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chris Cook
[SMTP:tektronix@linuxpower.cx]
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001
9:51 AM
> > To: Team3S
> > Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
manifold/turbo bolts
> >
> > I recently had an exhaust leak
between the block and exhaust
> > manifold. Upon attempting to
remove this the bolts that hold the manifold
> > to the turbo were
seized up. These bolts are the ones in a triangle
> >
pattern. It took well over 200 Nm of force to break them. Finally, I
> > managed to get two of them free w/ a breaker bar. However,
the third one
> > (rear one), due to an incredible difficulty getting
to it could not be
> > freed. The only way to get a socket on it
was to use a universal joint
> > (of which I broke one of them trying)
and I could not get a box wrench or
> > other in there. What
ended up happening is the bolt head and about 1
> > centimeter of the
shaft broke off, just above the threads. Fortunatly, it
> > was
low enough that I could get the manifold off and take the turbo
> >
out. But now I have about 4mm of shaft coming out of the turbo and I
need
> > to get it out w/out damaging the threads on the turbo.
> >
> > Any ideas? I really need to get this done, as
I cannot put the car back
> > together until this is fixed.
>
>
> > Thanks,
> > Chris Cook
> > 1992
3000GT VR-4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 08:05:49
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold/turbo bolts
Put a vise grips on the stud very
tight, and heat the flange up very hot
(like glowing) and the stud will come
right out. I simple propane torch may
not get hot enough. You might have to
take it to an exhaust shop, or
someone else that has an acetylene
torch...........
Wayne
At 07:51 AM 9/25/01 , Chris Cook
wrote:
> I need
>to get it out w/out damaging the threads on
the turbo.
>
>Any ideas? I really need to get this done, as I
cannot put the car back
>together until this is fixed.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 11:17:57
-0400
From: "Steve Johnson" <
sjohnson@bnfl-ettp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More Brake problems
I am the proud owner of a 1997 3000GTSL.
Beautiful car, except for the
brakes. The OEM front rotors suck. They started
giving the shake and
bake at about 20,000 miles. I had them turned and that
only lasted about
two or three days and the shakes came back. Turned then
again, and I am
very careful about the wheel torque(90# or so), but nothing
seems to
help.
I have looked over many of the emails on this site and see
that brake
problems, especially front, are common. Several guys posted after
market
replacements but I cannot pay $2000! Isn't there a good
replacement
rotor out there for under $200? I don't race. The car is just
for
crusin' and lookin' at, but the shaking is awful, especially
hard
braking.
HELP!
Steve
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:16:57
-0400 (EDT)
From: Chris Cook <
tektronix@linuxpower.cx>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust manifold/turbo bolts
I've got a propane torch, an
acetylene (MAPP) torch and a OXY-MAPP
(Oxy-acetylene) I figure I can
use the MAPP torch and heat it up, but my
concern was damaging the turbos as
there is no oil in it right now because
its disconnected. Should the
heat from this cause a problem?
Thanks again,
Chris
On Tue, 25 Sep 2001, Wayne wrote:
> Put a vise
grips on the stud very tight, and heat the flange up very hot
> (like
glowing) and the stud will come right out. I simple propane torch may
>
not get hot enough. You might have to take it to an exhaust shop, or
>
someone else that has an acetylene torch...........
>
>
Wayne
>
> At 07:51 AM 9/25/01 , Chris Cook wrote:
>
> I need
> >to get it out w/out damaging the threads on the
turbo.
> >
> >Any ideas? I really need to get this done,
as I cannot put the car back
> >together until this is
fixed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 09:42:50
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Exhaust manifold/turbo bolts
As long as you keep the heat on the
flange away from the center cartridge
of the turbo, it won't hurt it. Turbos
often glow red when running on the
car anyway.....
Wayne
At
09:16 AM 9/25/01 , Chris Cook wrote:
>I've got a propane torch, an
acetylene (MAPP) torch and a OXY-MAPP
>(Oxy-acetylene) I figure I
can use the MAPP torch and heat it up, but my
>concern was damaging the
turbos as there is no oil in it right now because
>its disconnected.
Should the heat from this cause a problem?
>
>Thanks
again,
> Chris
>
> On Tue, 25 Sep 2001,
Wayne wrote:
>
> > Put a vise grips on the stud very tight, and
heat the flange up very hot
> > (like glowing) and the stud will come
right out. I simple propane torch
> may
> > not get hot enough.
You might have to take it to an exhaust shop, or
> > someone else that
has an acetylene torch...........
> >
> > Wayne
>
>
> > At 07:51 AM 9/25/01 , Chris Cook wrote:
> >
> I need
> > >to get it out w/out damaging the threads on
the turbo.
> > >
> > >Any ideas? I really need to
get this done, as I cannot put the car back
> > >together until this
is fixed.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:57:47
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear SS brake line kit F/S
Doh!
I'm looking for the whole kit
for my car, asap.
Any suggestions?
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T
TT
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
Geoff Mohler wrote:
> I
have a set of rear SS lines for any 3/S car available for
$80+ship.
>
> Any takers? Sitting here at the house ready for
an envelope.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 12:19:39
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rear SS brake line kit F/S
On this thread, Andie Lim made
some disparaging remarks about the longevity
of ss brake lines. Anybody
else experience any problems with these? I would
think they have at least got
to be better than 10 year old rubber lines.
Chuck
(All my brake lines
are stainless X 3 cars X 4 years)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:15:57
-0400
From: "Andie W. Lin" <
andiewlin@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear SS brake line kit F/S
I would like to ask: what is your
reason for installing SS braided brake
hoses on your
car?
Regards,
Andie Lin
andie w lin
vp marketing and
product r&d
carbotech engineering
http://www.carbotecheng.comtel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
::-----Original Message-----
::From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
::Of Ken Stanton
::Sent:
Tuesday, September 25, 2001 12:58 PM
::Cc:
team3s@team3s.com::Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rear SS brake line kit F/S
::
::Doh!
::I'm looking for the whole kit
for my car, asap.
::Any suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:15:51
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT!! FW: 3000/Stealth Coffee Table Book
For those of us
that would like to have a coffee table book about OUR
cars for a change!!
Please read this FW email and send your request to
barbara@brooklands-books.com
(Barbara Cleveland)
I already sent my huge email. This is pretty much an
email campaign,
it's all in the FW'ed email, so please read it if interested.
Thanks!
Matt Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway
Computers, Salem OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: sean [mailto:sjohnson@exitech.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, September 25, 2001 5:36 AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject:
3000/Stealth Coffee Table Book
Hey guys. A friend of mine from the
Conquest TSi Club had a
Conquest/Starion Coffee Table Book made. He now owns
a 93 VR4 and wants
to have a book made for our cars. Here's the info &
the 3SI thread.
3000/Stealth coffee table book
How many people would
be interested in having a 136 page coffee table
book dedicated to the
3000/Stealth?
Those of that are in the StarQuest community as well as the
3si
community had to go thru an e-mail campain to "
sales@brooklands.com" to
convince them
there was a void in thier list of books and there were
enough interested
people to make the book worthwhile. You can go to
"
www.brooklands.com" to see what they have
available.
Well I have received my copy of the StarQuest book and it was
definately
worth the 6 months it took to produce it.
It took at least 200
of us commiting to start the process. The 3si
community is much larger than
the StarQuest community so I see no reason
why we can't get this done.
Who wants one?
Here is the reply from Brooklands when we started the
StarQuest book.
Sorry for the long post.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Subj: Starion Book
Date: 1/8/01 9:04:49 AM Central Standard Time
From:
barbara@brooklands-books.com
(barbara Cleveland)
Dear Starion Enthusiasts
We loved getting your
e-mails. Yes, we have enough material and we could
do a book on the
Starion/Conquest. However, we need to be careful that
we do not loose the
Brookland's corporate shirt. I can see that you guys
have a Club. However, do
you sell books through your Club? If you do, do
you think you could buy upon
publication 200 copies of such a book? The
US price would be $19.95, less
approximately 40% discount (plus shipping
costs). If you could take 200
copies we would produce one of our
Performance Portfolios (140 pages). If,
howev er, you could only take
100 copies, we would have to be more modest and
produce a Limited
Edition (92 pages). We would print 2000 copies of the
Performance
Portfolio, but only 1000 of a Limited Edition.
Other help
that we would like is a few good photographs for our front
and back covers.
How about that for a positive response!
Look forward to hearing from
you.
Regards
John Dowdeswell
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=46578&goto=newpostSean
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 13:23:07
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear SS brake line kit F/S
Well,
I don't want to upgrade
to Big Reds (calipers), too much $.
The car is 10 years old, the rubber isn't
bad, but aging.
I want to get the maximum brake response, to match the mods
that make me go
faster.
I'm pulling off the calipers to paint them, and
flushing the fluid (10 years
old) so, can't be a better time!
That's
my reasons =)
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Organizer - 3SI
Rochester (NY)
"Andie W. Lin" wrote:
> I would like to ask:
what is your reason for installing SS braided brake
> hoses on your
car?
>
> Regards,
>
> Andie Lin
>
> andie w
lin
> vp marketing and product r&d
> carbotech
engineering
>
http://www.carbotecheng.com> tel:
877.899.5024 | fax: 954.493.9669
>
> ::-----Original
Message-----
> ::From:
owner-team3s@team3s.com
[mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
> ::Of Ken Stanton
>
::Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 12:58 PM
> ::Cc:
team3s@team3s.com> ::Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear SS brake line kit F/S
> ::
> ::Doh!
> ::I'm
looking for the whole kit for my car, asap.
> ::Any
suggestions?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:20:06
-0700
From: "BlackLight" <
BlackLight@Planetice.net>
Subject:
Team3S: OT!! FW: 3000/Stealth Coffee Table Book
Here is another email
addy for you're response, I sent mine to both to
make sure they got
it.
sales@brooklands-books.comMatt
Nelson
1994 RT TT
Computer Sales Consultant
Gateway Computers, Salem
OR
Work Phone 503-587-7113
BlackLight@Planetice.Netwww.BlackLight.5u.com -
-----Original Message-----
From: sean [mailto:sjohnson@exitech.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, September 25, 2001 6:51 AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: RE:
3000/Stealth Coffee Table Book
Response is looking good.
Don't
forget that this is also an E-mail campain to Brooklands to show
them there
is enough interest to justify printing the book.
Send E-mail requesting
they make the book to:
"
barbara@brooklands-books.com" or
"
sales@brooklands-books.com"
thanks
Sean
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Elkin
[mailto:markelkin@mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 25, 2001 9:00
AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject: RE:
3000/Stealth Coffee Table Book
For $20.00, count me
in!
Mark
'96 VR-4
'97 YZF 600R
- -----Original
Message-----
From: sean [mailto:sjohnson@exitech.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
September 25, 2001 8:36 AM
To:
stealth@stls.verio.netSubject:
3000/Stealth Coffee Table Book
Hey guys. A friend of mine from the
Conquest TSi Club had a
Conquest/Starion Coffee Table Book made. He now owns
a 93 VR4 and wants
to have a book made for our cars. Here's the info &
the 3SI thread.
3000/Stealth coffee table book
How many people would
be interested in having a 136 page coffee table
book dedicated to the
3000/Stealth?
Those of that are in the StarQuest community as well as the
3si
community had to go thru an e-mail campain to "
sales@brooklands.com" to
convince them
there was a void in thier list of books and there were
enough interested
people to make the book worthwhile. You can go to
"
www.brooklands.com" to see what they have
available.
Well I have received my copy of the StarQuest book and it was
definately
worth the 6 months it took to produce it.
It took at least 200
of us commiting to start the process. The 3si
community is much larger than
the StarQuest community so I see no reason
why we can't get this done.
Who wants one?
Here is the reply from Brooklands when we started the
StarQuest book.
Sorry for the long post.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Subj: Starion Book
Date: 1/8/01 9:04:49 AM Central Standard Time
From:
barbara@brooklands-books.com
(barbara Cleveland)
Dear Starion Enthusiasts
We loved getting your
e-mails. Yes, we have enough material and we could
do a book on the
Starion/Conquest. However, we need to be careful that
we do not loose the
Brookland's corporate shirt. I can see that you guys
have a Club. However, do
you sell books through your Club? If you do, do
you think you could buy upon
publication 200 copies of such a book? The
US price would be $19.95, less
approximately 40% discount (plus shipping
costs). If you could take 200
copies we would produce one of our
Performance Portfolios (140 pages). If,
howev er, you could only take
100 copies, we would have to be more modest and
produce a Limited
Edition (92 pages). We would print 2000 copies of the
Performance
Portfolio, but only 1000 of a Limited Edition.
Other help
that we would like is a few good photographs for our front
and back covers.
How about that for a positive response!
Look forward to hearing from
you.
Regards
John Dowdeswell
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?threadid=46578&goto=newpostSean
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 25 Sep 2001 10:43:36
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: More Brake problems
I wholesale porterfield brakes &
rotors (which actually supports the
team3s site and servers).
If you
have any questions..please feel free to ask.
On Tue, 25 Sep 2001, Steve
Johnson wrote:
> I am the proud owner of a 1997 3000GTSL. Beautiful
car, except for the
> brakes. The OEM front rotors suck. They started
giving the shake and
> bake at about 20,000 miles. I had them turned and
that only lasted about
> two or three days and the shakes came back.
Turned then again, and I am
> very careful about the wheel torque(90# or
so), but nothing seems to
> help.
> I have looked over many of the
emails on this site and see that brake
> problems, especially front, are
common. Several guys posted after market
> replacements but I cannot pay
$2000! Isn't there a good replacement
> rotor out there for under $200? I
don't race. The car is just for
> crusin' and lookin' at, but the shaking
is awful, especially hard
> braking.
> HELP!
> Steve