Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, September 27 2001 Volume 01 :
Number
628
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 26 Sep 2001 21:26:32 -0400
From: "Dennis and Anita Moore" <
stealth@quixnet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Caliper paint
If your powder coating "chipped as easily as
regular paint", then it wasn't
applied properly. I'd bet you an oil
change that the surface prep was
insufficient. If done right, powder
coating will withstand repeated heavy
raps with the pointy end of a claw
hammer. The metal underneath it will
deform before the coating loses
adhesion. If done wrong, well...
Another problem with powder
coating, like just about any other polymer, is
selecting the right compound
for the application. It's gotten a lot more
complicated over the past
couple years as smart guys keep putting out more
options than us normal guys
can keep track of!
Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
[snip]
>
>
I never considered powder coating for the calipers. I guess this
> baked
on paint would be an option if you gutted the calipers (took
> pistons and
seals out, pins, etc.), carefully protected certain
> parts, and flushed
all fluid out. I had my stock '92 TT wheels powder
> coated (after having
them straightened and trued) and was not
> impressed. The powder coated
paint chipped as easily as regular
> paint. Perhaps the wheels were not
powder coated well. The brushed on
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 20:46:26
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Caliper noise
Hi,
My calipers (or at
least i think it's the calipers) are making a strange
creacking noise
whenever i do anything (press/release) to the brake pedal.
Do I need to
rebuild them? If so, what is a seal kit and do i need
one?
Thanks,
Alex.
'95 VR4
(hey hey, my first "mod" is coming via express mail - speed
bleeders. not a
real mod, i know, but still, i'm proud of myself :-)
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 22:02:34
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Caliper noise
A note to anyone ordering Speed Bleeders for a
second gen car. The catalog
at SpeedBleeder,
www.speedbleeder.com, only lists parts up
to 1993 front and
rear. Fortunately, the front calipers have the same
bleed screw. However,
the rear caliper bleed screw will not fit and
will leak.
Do not use first gen rear caliper Speed Bleeder screws in the
second gen
rear caliper.
You can use first gen front caliper Speed
Bleeder screws in the first gen
front calipers.
Then again -- maybe I
ordered the wrong one but I don't think they make the
parts for us. Sorry,
Alex, but congrats on the first mod. Be careful
jacking up the car and
use jackstands when working under it.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4 with Speed
Bleeders in the Big Red calipers but stock bleeders in
the
rear
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 21:03:17
-0500
From: "cody" <
overclck@starband.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Caliper noise
That doesn't sound good.
Have you
checked all mounting points for calipers to ensure they
are
tight?
Also, I'm not sure if this is possible, but are the brake
pads OK?
Does it do this only at a stop, or while driving, or
both???
- -Cody
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 09:26:38
+0700
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
Subject:
Team3S: Fw: THROTTLE BODY
Hi Matt Nelson, Phil J. Hosner, Jeff Lucius and
Chuck,
Thanks a lot for all your response regarding my car and be advised
that a/c
is switch off and also I have check perhaps any air leakage on it
but I am
sure no air leakage which cause the rpm high.
Jeff, please advise
me how to check FIAV, TPS and IAC should I remove TB and
check one by
one
If I must remove TB from inlet manifold, what should I take care and
what
will be happened into engine after reinstalled TB to inlet manifold .
Should
the engine hesitate to crank or anything else, please kindly
advise.
Kindly regards,
Mei Harijanto
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: "CV. Duta Karya Teknik" <
dutakt@sby.centrin.net.id>
To:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 26, 2001 1:29 PM
Subject: THROTTLE BODY
> My
car is idling at 1000 rpm and I have tried to adjust BISS so that
it
will
> be idling at 750 rpm - 800 rpm, before adjusted I
grounded a cable in the
> engine compartment as tech. manual
advised. But the rpm never come to 750
> rpm it always stay at 1000
rpm.
> Should I clean the throttle body by removing it and clean parts
inside and
> what should I take care for cleaning the throttle body so
that whenever I
> reinstall it I have no problem with engine.
>
Please kindly advise me and thank you very much for your kindly
attention.
>
> Regards,
> Mei Harijanto
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:14:03
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Caliper noise
The following is from memory [a bad memory I'm sorry to
say] ---- I thought the
91-93 cars had the 10mm in front and the 7mm in back
but the 94 and up had
the 10mm all the way around. If nobody has figured it
out by tomorrow let me know
and I'll look --- I've got first gen front and
rears and 2nd gen rears laying
around.
Jim
Berry
======================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Darren Schilberg <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 26, 2001 7:02 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Caliper
noise
> A note to anyone ordering Speed Bleeders for a second gen
car. The catalog
> at SpeedBleeder,
www.speedbleeder.com, only lists parts up
to 1993 front and
> rear. Fortunately, the front calipers have the
same bleed screw. However,
> the rear caliper bleed screw will not
fit and will leak.
>
> Do not use first gen rear caliper Speed
Bleeder screws in the second gen
> rear caliper.
>
> You can
use first gen front caliper Speed Bleeder screws in the first gen
> front
calipers.
>
> Then again -- maybe I ordered the wrong one but I
don't think they make the
> parts for us. Sorry, Alex, but congrats on the
first mod. Be careful
> jacking up the car and use jackstands when
working under it.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Speed
Bleeders in the Big Red calipers but stock bleeders in
> the
rear
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:30:47
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Caliper paint
I was under the impression that powder coating was good for
400º F or so.
If this is the case they wouldn't hold up well in a racing
application, where
temps can reach 500 º --- any one know if the 400º F
number is accurate.
Jim
Berry
-
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis and Anita Moore <
stealth@quixnet.net>
To
> If
your powder coating "chipped as easily as regular paint", then it wasn't
>
applied properly. I'd bet you an oil change that the surface prep
was
> insufficient. If done right, powder coating will withstand
repeated heavy
> raps with the pointy end of a claw hammer. The
metal underneath it will
> deform before the coating loses adhesion.
If done wrong, well...
>
> Another problem with powder coating, like
just about any other polymer, is
> selecting the right compound for the
application. It's gotten a lot more
> complicated over the past
couple years as smart guys keep putting out more
> options than us normal
guys can keep track of!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:40:43
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Road Dyno
I've never seen drag numbers for the cars although the number a
.32 number
keeps getting thrown about --- It sure couldn't be too far
off.
frontal area I've never seen although if you took a frontal pic of
your car along
with a tape measure you could probably get a pretty good
estimate --- hint,
get a ways away and use a telephoto lens, that flattens
the picture and helps
eliminate distortion from close-up lenses.
The
loss number thrown about is 25 to 30%.
IMHO --- these devices are most
useful as a tuning aid, their ability to
provide absolute numbers is
limited.
Jim
berry
===================================================
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Nickolaos M. Sgouros <
atenag@coqui.net>
To: Team3s <
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 26, 2001 2:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Road Dyno
>
Dear friends Hi
> I just purchase the "Road Dyno" device and I am working
to setup the unit.
> Most of the information needed was found on the
"manual" but I need also the
> following numbers
>
> DRAG
COEFFICIENT:
> FRONTAL AREA:
> DRIVE TRAIN LOSS:
>
> My
car is RT TT 6 gear
> Some help will be highly appreciated.
>
> Nikos the Greek
> 92' RT TT
> Puerto Rico
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 20:31:34
-0700
From: Jim Elferdink <
macintosh@sunra.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Speedbleeders,(WAS Re:Caliper noise)
I put SpeedBleeders on
my 2nd gen (94) front and back. They're the same
size, 10 x 1.0, SpeedBleeder
number SB 1010.
‹Jim Elferdink
> From: "Darren Schilberg"
<
dschilberg@pobox.com>
>
Reply-To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
> Date:
Wed, 26 Sep 2001 22:02:34 -0400
> To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Caliper noise
>
> A note to anyone ordering
Speed Bleeders for a second gen car. The catalog
> at SpeedBleeder,
www.speedbleeder.com, only lists parts
up to 1993 front and
> rear. Fortunately, the front calipers have
the same bleed screw. However,
> the rear caliper bleed screw will
not fit and will leak.
>
> Do not use first gen rear caliper Speed
Bleeder screws in the second gen
> rear caliper.
>
> You can
use first gen front caliper Speed Bleeder screws in the first gen
> front
calipers.
>
> Then again -- maybe I ordered the wrong one but I
don't think they make the
> parts for us. Sorry, Alex, but congrats on the
first mod. Be careful
> jacking up the car and use jackstands when
working under it.
>
> --Flash!
> 1995 VR-4 with Speed
Bleeders in the Big Red calipers but stock bleeders in
> the
rear
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 23:41:02
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Caliper noise
Could possibly be. The catalog shows SB1010
(10 mm) for the front and
SB7100 (7 mm) for the rear. I did not try the
10 mm in the rear since they
were being used in the front. This could
be the difference. All I know is
7mm was too small.
If it is
10mm all around then we should tell Speed Bleeder to update their
catalog so
they can sell more to our commune.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, September 26, 2001 10:14 PM
The following is from memory [a
bad memory I'm sorry to say] ---- I thought
the
91-93 cars had the 10mm in
front and the 7mm in back but the 94 and up had
the 10mm all the way around.
If nobody has figured it out by tomorrow let me
know
and I'll look ---
I've got first gen front and rears and 2nd gen rears
laying
around.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 23:47:57
EDT
From:
DiABLoCarAudio@aol.comSubject: Re:
Team3S: Random Questions (Sessions 2)
Rich calm down.... Blue-Lighters
are allowed as long as they ask a 3/S
related question, =)
Here's
what you do Amar, put in a second battery. If you don't know who,
maybe you're better off buying a kit from one of those we sell it all racing
companies (Summit Racing). As for the shifter knob, get a coupler,
have a
machine shop weld on a new end with the proper threading, or get a
new
shifter knob. Don't tape the knob on, it's not secure enough and
it's
half-assed.
Good luck,
Paul Butkiewicz
Diablo
Enterprises
Norwood, MA 02062-4012
Phone/Fax (781) 769-4180
http://www.DiabloCarAudio.com/http://www.DiabloEnterprises.com/***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 23:50:06
-0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <
apedenko@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Speedbleeders,(WAS Re:Caliper noise)
I didn't run into
that problem - I called them, gave them the year (95) and
they just picked
out the size for me. I don't know if it'll fit yet, but
they didn't mention
any problems with that.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim
Elferdink" <
macintosh@sunra.com>
To: <
dschilberg@pobox.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 26, 2001 10:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Speedbleeders,(WAS Re:Caliper noise)
> I put SpeedBleeders on my
2nd gen (94) front and back. They're the same
> size, 10 x 1.0,
SpeedBleeder number SB 1010.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 08:18:34
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Caliper paint
Also found some high temp paint in the Summit
catalog ...
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 08:21:33
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Caliper noise
1st gen is 10 mm front and 8 mm rear, 2nd gen
is 10 mm front and rear.
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jim Berry [SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, September 26, 2001
9:14 PM
> To:
dschilberg@pobox.com;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Caliper noise
>
> The following is from memory
[a bad memory I'm sorry to say] ---- I
> thought the
> 91-93 cars
had the 10mm in front and the 7mm in back but the 94 and up had
> the 10mm
all the way around. If nobody has figured it out by tomorrow let
> me
know
> and I'll look --- I've got first gen front and rears and 2nd gen
rears
> laying around.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 06:27:49
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
From the Mods Page at my web
site. My Speed Bleeder page is not up
yet.
Speed Bleeders on my '92
TT:
"SB1010 for front calipers; SB7100 for rear calipers
(3/92-5/93
production dates only, others should be SB1010)". My car's
production
date is 92.03.02.
7mm will not work on 2nd gen and newer 3S
AWD cars. I don't know
about FWD cars. Use 10mm for newer models. Also the
very earliest
models of AWD may use 10mm in the rear calipers. 10mm also
works on
the clutch release (slave) cylinder - all years I think, but '92
AWD
for sure.
Now for my opinion. Speed Bleeders are a waste of money
and time.
Why? Because it still takes two people to bleed a system (clutch
or
brake) *AND* to observe the fluid leaving the system for 1)
air
bubbles, 2) "dirt" or other particles, and 3) color change if
using
fluids of two different colors. True, in an emergency one
person
could bleed the system and run back and forth from driver seat
to
wheel well and check the fluid condition in the drain tube. On
the
other hand, a two-person operation provides the opportunity to
involve
the wife (you know how much they are just dying to help you
work on your car)
or a buddy.
I have the Speed Bleeders. They are easy to install and they
work
great. But I would not recommend this as a required "mod". I
still
bleed the hydraulics the old fashioned way, with two people.
Of
course with the Speed Bleeders you just open the valve once and
close
it when done, a little added convenience.
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, September 26, 2001 9:41 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Caliper
noise
Could possibly be. The catalog shows SB1010 (10 mm) for the
front
and
SB7100 (7 mm) for the rear. I did not try the 10 mm in the
rear
since they were being used in the front. This could be
the
difference. All I know is 7mm was too small.
If it is 10mm
all around then we should tell Speed Bleeder to update
their catalog so they
can sell more to our commune.
- --Flash!
1995 VR-4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 09:43:21
-0400
From: "Boris" <
BPeguero@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: car not for sale PARTS FOR SALE
Hello everyone,
I
have decided, given the interest and comments I have received
from
various
list members, not to sell my car, but rather to sell
parts (as there is
clearly a demand/need). Below please find a
list of the parts available
and
the cost which I am selling them
for. Please note: the cost listed does
not include
shipping, however, the buyer is responsible for shipping costs.
I will
be happy to give estimate shipping costs upon inquiry.
BRAND NEW
AAM
Y-Pipe
$275.00 (new from AAM
$350)
AAM aluminum spark plug
cover
$50.00
BRAND NEW AAM spec 15G turbos (less than 500 miles
on the turbos)
$1,800.00
BRAND NEW HKS intercoolers
(less than 500 miles with intercoolers
installed)
$1,100.00
HKS Vein Pressure Converter with HKS 550cc
chip $750.00
HKS Super Power
Mega Flow
Intake
$200.00
HKS upgraded fuel pump
$400.00
BRAND
NEW Apexi Super AFC (less than 500 miles since
installed)
$330.00
Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost
Controller
$350.00
Blitz Super Sound Blow Off
Valve
$175.00
Greddy 550cc fuel
injectors
$400.00
Greddy Turbo
Timer
$60.00
Greddy air/fuel ratio
meter
$300.00
2 Greddy exhaust temperature gauges with
tripod
$420.00
ATR downpipe w/ ATR high flow catalytic
converter $400.00
Borla catback
exhaust w/4 3/4" tips
$500.00
MSD-4 Ignition
System w/ coyle
packs
$460.00
Denzo Irridium spark plugs brand new all 6 (less than 500
miles on plugs)
$60.00
8.5mm Magnecore spark plug
wires
$100.00
Freshly re-built transfer case by Altered
Atmosphere
(need time
to remove before sell-let me know if you are
interested)
Eibach Pro-Kit springs (need time
to remove before sell-let me know if
you are interested)
White face
gauges $60
Currently on
255/40/ZR17's BF Goodridge G Force KD
tires (need time
to remove 4
rims and tires and stabilize car before sell-let me know if you
are
interested)
2 OEM engine heads
$675
Also, I am stripping down the body of the car and the interior
(including a
leather shift boot, Razo shift knob, etc.). If you are
interested in any of
these parts (exhaust plentium, power window motors, rear
wiper / wiper
motor, tail lights, headlight assembly, brake calipers, etc.),
please send
me an e-mail with the part you are interested and we can discuss
price.
Thank you very much,
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 09:46:21
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders
Jeff -- You are missing the point of the Speed
Bleeder. Who wants to use a
small 10mm open end wrench on a piping hot
bleed screw and open it 20
degrees and shout "DOWN!" and then tighten it by
20 degrees and shout "UP!"
and then open it 20 degrees again watching for
bubbles and crud and shout
"DOWN!" and then tighten it and get up and look
how much fluid is in the
reservoir and then open it by 20 degrees and shout
"DOWN"! when the
assistant is saying "It already IS down." Then you
bleed some all over the
caliper and it smokes from the massive
heat.
Not me. Done that plenty.
My purpose in the Speed
Bleeder is to (1) Look professional at the track and
not shout from one
corner of the car to the other, (2) concentrate on the
level of the fluid,
the color of it, and keeping a tight connection of the
bleeder hose on the
bleed screw. You just tell them to pump a few times and
then tighten
it. Next. Open. Pump a few times. Tighten. Less
than 30
seconds to one minute per bleeding.
Anyone who tells you they
are a waste of time has never bled their brakes on
a regular basis and has
time. At the track you have classroom sessions
after running and you
don't have time to dilly dally all the time so you
gots to be
efficient.
The only other mod worth its weight in gold (other than Speed
Bleeders) was
the silicone hose I put on the metal handle of the oil
dipstick. Man does
that save some burned fingers.
-
--Flash!
1995 VR-4
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Lucius
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 9:28 AM
Now for my opinion.
Speed Bleeders are a waste of money and time.
Why? Because it still takes two
people to bleed a system (clutch or
brake) *AND* to observe the fluid leaving
the system for 1) air
bubbles, 2) "dirt" or other particles, and 3) color
change if using
fluids of two different colors. True, in an emergency one
person
could bleed the system and run back and forth from driver seat
to
wheel well and check the fluid condition in the drain tube. On
the
other hand, a two-person operation provides the opportunity to
involve
the wife (you know how much they are just dying to help you
work on your car)
or a buddy.
I have the Speed Bleeders. They are easy to install and they
work
great. But I would not recommend this as a required "mod". I
still
bleed the hydraulics the old fashioned way, with two people.
Of
course with the Speed Bleeders you just open the valve once and
close
it when done, a little added convenience.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 09:50:11
-0400
From: "Steve Johnson" <
sjohnson@bnfl-ettp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: car not for sale PARTS FOR SALE
Boris:
What year is your
3000? Have you upgraded the rotors? Are you interested in
selling
these?
Thanks
Steve
Boris wrote:
> Hello
everyone,
>
> I have decided, given the interest and comments
I have received from
> various
> list members, not to sell my
car, but rather to sell parts (as there is
> clearly a
demand/need). Below please find a list of the parts available
>
and
> the cost which I am selling them for. Please note:
the cost listed does
> not include shipping, however, the buyer is
responsible for shipping costs.
> I will be happy to give estimate
shipping costs upon inquiry.
>
> BRAND NEW AAM
Y-Pipe
$275.00 (new from AAM
> $350)
> AAM aluminum spark plug
cover
$50.00
> BRAND NEW AAM spec 15G turbos (less than 500
miles on the turbos)
> $1,800.00
> BRAND NEW HKS
intercoolers (less than 500 miles with intercoolers
>
installed) $1,100.00
> HKS Vein Pressure Converter
with HKS 550cc chip
$750.00
> HKS Super Power Mega Flow
Intake
$200.00
> HKS upgraded fuel pump
> $400.00
>
BRAND NEW Apexi Super AFC (less than 500 miles since
installed)
> $330.00
> Blitz Dual Solenoid Boost
Controller
> $350.00
> Blitz Super Sound Blow Off
Valve
> $175.00
> Greddy 550cc fuel
injectors
> $400.00
> Greddy Turbo Timer
>
$60.00
> Greddy air/fuel ratio meter
>
$300.00
> 2 Greddy exhaust temperature gauges with
tripod
$420.00
> ATR downpipe w/ ATR high flow catalytic
converter $400.00
> Borla catback
exhaust w/4 3/4" tips
> $500.00
> MSD-4 Ignition
System w/ coyle
packs
$460.00
> Denzo Irridium spark plugs brand new all 6 (less
than 500 miles on plugs)
> $60.00
> 8.5mm Magnecore
spark plug
wires
$100.00
> Freshly re-built transfer case by Altered
Atmosphere
(need time
> to remove before sell-let me know if you are
interested)
> Eibach Pro-Kit springs (need
time to remove before sell-let me know if
> you are
interested)
> White face
gauges $60
> Currently on
255/40/ZR17's BF Goodridge G Force KD
tires (need time
> to
remove 4 rims and tires and stabilize car before sell-let me know if you
>
are interested)
> 2 OEM engine
heads $675
>
> Also,
I am stripping down the body of the car and the interior (including a
>
leather shift boot, Razo shift knob, etc.). If you are interested in any
of
> these parts (exhaust plentium, power window motors, rear wiper /
wiper
> motor, tail lights, headlight assembly, brake calipers, etc.),
please send
> me an e-mail with the part you are interested and we can
discuss price.
>
> Thank you very much,
>
Boris
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 09:02:56
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
> different colors. True,
in an emergency one person could bleed the
> system and run back and forth
from driver seat to wheel well and check
> the fluid condition in the
drain tube. On the other hand, a two-person
> operation provides the
opportunity to involve the wife (you know how
> much they are just dying
to help you work on your car) or a buddy.
I have a speed bleeder in my
clutch cylinder and I have used it
several times to bleed my clutch by
myself. Personally I don't
care for having to get a friend help me with the
repetitive pedal
down-close-pedal up-open routine when I can just open the
speed bleeder and go to work on the pedal alone. I do have to get
out of
the car a couple of times to add fluid to the reservoir and
examine the
fluid being bled; though, IMHO this is faster and less
annoying than doing
it the other way.
Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 10:11:38
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders
And not to shoot a dead horse (?) but at most
track events I am running solo
and my wife is not there and finding an
able-bodied friend who is not
bleeding their own brakes is not always
easy.
- --Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Walton C.
Gibson
Sent: Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:03 AM
I have a speed
bleeder in my clutch cylinder and I have used it
several times to bleed my
clutch by myself. Personally I don't
care for having to get a friend help me
with the repetitive pedal
down-close-pedal up-open routine when I can just
open the
speed bleeder and go to work on the pedal alone. I do have to
get
out of the car a couple of times to add fluid to the reservoir
and
examine the fluid being bled; though, IMHO this is faster and
less
annoying than doing it the other way.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 10:13:37
-0400
From: "Volthause" <
volt@vozuluzov.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
So, with speedbleeders
installed on the brakes, do you still need to bleed
the corners of the car in
"order", or can you just open all 4 of them up and
let 'er rip?
-
-Scott Holthausen
'94 VR4 (for sale)
> > different colors. True,
in an emergency one person could bleed the
> > system and run back and
forth from driver seat to wheel well and check
> > the fluid condition
in the drain tube. On the other hand, a two-person
> > operation
provides the opportunity to involve the wife (you know how
> > much
they are just dying to help you work on your car) or a buddy.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 07:18:59
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intake pressure testing & BOV
Well I have fixed all leaks but
one in the intake track. I have
pressurized the system 4 times. Each time no
air went through the
engine, none. So much for my predictions. :)
My
web page below shows the pressure tester. My current configuration
just has
one fitting attached to the plumbing PVC pipe rather than
two (more pics to
come on the web page).
http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius3/j3-2-pressuretester.htmThe
first time I found breaks in the welds of my right IC (Alamo
type) - the
reason boost has been limited to 16-18 psi. I tried JB
Weld on it first and
the 2nd test showed that the JB did not hold. I
had the IC welded and the 3rd
test showed the ICs held pressure, but
there was a leak where my DNP intake
pipe attached to the rear turbo.
My fault, not DNP's. I fixed that and tested
a fourth time this
morning.
Now the only leak is from the small
"angled" nipple on the Greddy
BOV. I know we have talked about the GReddy BOV
and how that nipple
is left alone. At first I thought that because the
throttle plate is
closed that less pressure is in the plenum than in the
Y-pipe and so
the BOV should be "open". I applied pressure again with the
throttle
plate open and the BOV still leaks through that angled nipple.
The
BOV itself probable can't "leak" with this type of test because
there
is the same pressure on the inlet and outlet big openings of the
BOV.
So what is that nipple for again? Is there a reason I shouldn't
seal
it off? Is it leaking only because there is pressure on the
outlet
side of the BOV (normally the outlet side is under low pressure -
the
intake hose)?
Thanks for any insight,
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 21:32:24
-0500
From: "Oskar" <
osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
You must still follow the correct
order.
Oskar
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Volthause"
<
volt@vozuluzov.com>
To:
"3000GT" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, September 27, 2001 9:13 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was
Caliper noise)
> So, with speedbleeders installed on the brakes, do
you still need to bleed
> the corners of the car in "order", or can you
just open all 4 of them up
and
> let 'er rip?
>
> -Scott
Holthausen
> '94 VR4 (for sale)
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 10:34:07
-0400
From: "Darren Schilberg" <
dschilberg@pobox.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
Technically you are supposed
to do them in order although I thought about
doing a mass brake fluid dump
one time for laughs.
Doing them in order remember to do rear right, front
left, rear left, front
right. You are working toward the ABS pump which
is why you are supposed to
do it when the car is running so the fluid gets
through the ABS pump.
I think you do it in this order because that is how
they are linked and if
you go the rears first and then the fronts you CAN get
a tiny teeny air
bubble that to most folks won't make a
difference.
Just bleeding one corner at a time is best. If you are
lucky enough to have
an assistant then while you are bleeding the other
corner they are changing
the pads for you or checking the rotor.
-
--Flash!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Volthause
Sent:
Thursday, September 27, 2001 10:14 AM
So, with speedbleeders installed on
the brakes, do you still need to bleed
the corners of the car in "order", or
can you just open all 4 of them up and
let 'er rip?
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 11:19:47
-0400
From: MIHAI RAICU <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Physics Question for the racers?
For those of you that race and/or know
more about dynamics of
car under racing stress:
In theory, if we were
to run our cars in an oval (ie. NASCAR
track), would the optimal camber
setting be -3 deg (RIGHT)
and +3 degrees (LEFT)? Is a setup such as
this
(diagram: / /) desired for one turn only (ie. turn right
only)?
I know you and all racers set your cambers like / \, but I
guess I'm inquiring about needing to turn in only one
direction.
Question 2:
Do you not loose braking effectiveness when
you have your
wheels set like / \ ? It seems like the car would crouch
down some under heavy breaking, therefore giving you less
contact
patch.
Maybe somebody will shed some light in this area of
nonexpertise.
- -MIHAI RAICU-
95 Red VR4
Apexi AVC-R (1
atm)
Greedy Type-S BOV
BF Goodrich SS Brake Lines
Falken FK-451
245/40/YR18
- -- Wayne State University --
- ---- School of Medicine
----
- ------- Detroit, MI ------
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 11:35:57
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
Uh... do these replace the
open type bleeders on the caliper, or do you really
NEED 4? I mean, can
you move the bleeder from 1 wheel to the next?
Ken
Darren
Schilberg wrote:
> Technically you are supposed to do them in order
although I thought about
> doing a mass brake fluid dump one time for
laughs.
>
> Doing them in order remember to do rear right, front
left, rear left, front
> right. You are working toward the ABS pump
which is why you are supposed to
> do it when the car is running so the
fluid gets through the ABS pump.
>
> I think you do it in this order
because that is how they are linked and if
> you go the rears first and
then the fronts you CAN get a tiny teeny air
> bubble that to most folks
won't make a difference.
>
> Just bleeding one corner at a time is
best. If you are lucky enough to have
> an assistant then while you
are bleeding the other corner they are changing
> the pads for you or
checking the rotor.
>
> --Flash!
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 10:36:02
-0500
From: "Morice, Francis" <
francis.morice@retek.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
Sure, but you will be
cleaning up brake fluid everytime you pull out the
bleeders. Much
cleaner and efficient to buy all 4. I got mine from summit
racing for $20
plus shipping.
Francis
'96 RT/TT
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ken Stanton [mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday,
September 27, 2001 10:36 AM
To:
dschilberg@pobox.comCc: Volthause;
3000GT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
>
Uh... do these replace the open type bleeders on the caliper, or do
you
really
> NEED 4? I mean, can you move the bleeder from 1
wheel to the next?
> Ken
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 08:23:40
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Physics Question for the racers?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: MIHAI RAICU <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
> For those of
you that race and/or know more about dynamics of
> car under racing
stress:
>
> In theory, if we were to run our cars in an oval (ie.
NASCAR
> track), would the optimal camber setting be -3 deg (RIGHT)
> and +3 degrees (LEFT)? Is a setup such as this
> (diagram:
/ /) desired for one turn only (ie. turn right
> only)?
On an oval
the inside tire does very little in the corners --- the
load is transferred
to the outside. They do bias the weight of the
car to the outside --- I think
they are limited to 60% on the right
and 40% on the left. They also use tire
stagger to force the car
to turn left --- with radials they manufacture
different diameters
back in the old days they could control diameter with
tire pressure
to some extent. While the camber of the inside tire
is
probably less than the right I have no Idea how much.
> Question
2:
> Do you not loose braking effectiveness when you have your
>
wheels set like / \ ? It seems like the car would crouch
> down
some under heavy breaking, therefore giving you less
> contact
patch.
Yes indeed, too much camber can cause loss of braking as you
described.
Jim Berry
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 08:34:02
-0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Physics Question for the racers?
Oops --- I said 60% on the right and
40% on the left, it should
be just the opposite, the intent is to provide as
much weight
balance as possible in the corners.
For stagger, the larger
tire goes on the outside to turn the car
to the left --- you have to apply
opposite lock on the straight
to keep it on the
track.
Jim
Berry
=====================================
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 11:17:47
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed Bleeders (was Caliper noise)
Follow the bleeding order,
else fluid will go out the path of least
resistance and you get only one
caliper bled.
> So, with speedbleeders installed on the brakes, do you
still need to bleed
> the corners of the car in "order", or can you just
open all 4 of them up
> and
> let 'er rip?