team3s
Thursday, May 11
2000
Volume 01 : Number
132
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 00:53:29 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: TMO cable
Jeff,
> I have not had good luck with the
cable. When I first received
> it last year it quit working pretty soon. I
suspected static
> shock or broken wire, but could not confirm this by
inspecting
> the unit (I'm sure you've looked inside also).
No,
there was no need for this so far. What I usually do is to remove the
key and
then insert the 12V and the plug to the port (I use the lower right
free one
in the fuse box. Then I connect it to the notebook. I never had
problems with
three different notebooks either if they were already running
or not. Finally
I start the car and hit the connect button... null problemo
:) Hope you'll
find the same good behaviour when you get it.
> If I remember
correctly, you were working on a replacement for
> the TMO. Is that
project still on?
No, absolutely not. There was just a discussion on that
as Todd doesn't move
a finger to help us with the 3S problems (timing, 2 O2
sensors, etc.) Also
new version will probbaly never see the light so we jsut
have to live with
that. I'm ways away from programming right now as my last
program written in
C++ was about 8 years ago.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 16:26:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: TMO cable
Roger,
That's the same proceedure I use.
Plus I just leave it all
connected after I'm done with car when I'm doing a
lot of
testing. I do use a different fuse in the junction box, #8,
which
is ignition switched, or when I'm not lazy I draw power
from a wire (that
supplies most of my gauges) that connects to
C-59 pin 4. I have described all
my actions to Todd and he
doesn't see that I'm doing anything wrong. I guess
I've just
been unlucky (well 2 of the dozens of times I've used
it).
Thanks for the feedback.
Jeff Lucius
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
"Team3S" <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: TMO
cable
Jeff,
> I have not had good luck with the cable. When I
first received
> it last year it quit working pretty soon. I suspected
static
> shock or broken wire, but could not confirm this by
inspecting
> the unit (I'm sure you've looked inside also).
No,
there was no need for this so far. What I usually do is to
remove the key and
then insert the 12V and the plug to the port
(I use the lower right free one
in the fuse box. Then I connect
it to the notebook. I never had problems with
three different
notebooks either if they were already running or not. Finally
I
start the car and hit the connect button... null problemo :)
Hope you'll
find the same good behaviour when you get it.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 18:35:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost levels
Just got the car back from the turbo upgrade...seems
to run just fine.
But now if I step onit..and ride WOT, the OEM boost
guage now only reads
up to about 8psi.
WTF?
I at least
expect it to peg-out as inaccurately as it USED to do...ideas?
- ---
I
LUV YOU VIRUS UPDATE!
*Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that you
decided to open an attachment listed as
a love letter from nobody you
know? This isnt a virus thats choking Email server, its
intelligently
deciding who should have thier computers taken away by force.
-
---
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 18:40:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Water injection mounting..
Im not in the mood to reinvent our
battery, and Im having a tough time
with alternate locations to mount the
res. for the water.
Any other ideas?
- ---
I LUV YOU VIRUS
UPDATE!
*Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that you decided to
open an attachment listed as
a love letter from nobody you know? This
isnt a virus thats choking Email server, its
intelligently deciding who
should have thier computers taken away by force.
-
---
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 21:36:27 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AWD Racing drivers - Read please
>I agree that
putting our AWD cars against back 1/2 Rear Wheel Drive or
>tube frame cars
is not a fair competition for our average AWD car.
>Please send your
opinion to
GSXCOP95@aol.com>Arty 91
VR-4
>
We don't have such problems in open tracking. It's run what you
brung, and
you are classified according to your on-track experience.
Nobody
discriminates against AWD cars.
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 21:58:07 -0500
From: "Oskar" <
swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Water injection mounting..
You can get a smaller battery such as the
Odyssey ($159 from
www.jegs.com).
This is
the same battery as the now discontinued Black Panther.
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 8:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Water injection
mounting..
> Im not in the mood to reinvent our battery, and Im
having a tough time
> with alternate locations to mount the res. for the
water.
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> ---
> I LUV YOU
VIRUS UPDATE!
>
> *Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that
you decided to open an
attachment listed as
> a love letter from nobody
you know? This isnt a virus thats choking Email
server, its
>
intelligently deciding who should have thier computers taken away
by
force.
> ---
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 23:10:15 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Testing Day for camber plates
We went testing today at the
Marshalltown International Speedway, and I
finally got a chance to test
Brad's Big Red brake conversion kit, the new
camber plates, and the
suspension settings.
We rented the track ($50 per car, up from last
year), and I ran about 75
laps. It was a nice warm day, and I could run about
10-12 laps at a time
before the temperature gauge crept up toward hot.
Brad's brakes WORK! No fade, solid stops from 70+ mph and -- wonder
of
wonders -- no clouds of black brake dust. I have air ducts, but we don't
go
fast enough at Marshalltown (0.7 mile, 13 turns, 55 mph average) to
really
cool the brakes down, and I didn't use my water injection (didn't
need
it!). That means the brakes were working just fine, all by
themselves,
without any real cooling to speak of.
When I run the
Pagid Blacks on the street, they generate gobs of black
dust. Today, nearly
no dust. I don't know if this is because they are
finally bedded in, or if
they dust badly when street cold, or what. I
haven't checked the pads for
wear yet.
The brakes did not contribute to any lap time improvements.
Our stock
brakes stop the car pretty dang good, they just don't stop the car
very
often. Brad's brakes were installed to improve longevity of pads and
stop
fading.
We had a problem with a mysterious loss of brake fluid.
My BRAKE light was
on nearly the entire time, because of a low brake fluid
reservoir. No leaks
show on the ground, and I couldn't see anything with a
cursory check. It
will go back on the alignment rack soon, and we'll check
the system. When
we installed Brad's kit, we also installed his SS lines
front and rear, and
one might be leaking.
We installed camber plates 3
weeks ago, and set the camber to one degree
negative in the front, with +0.15
deg toe. When we used a pryrometer on the
tires today, the right side fronts
read within 5 deg across, with the
inside and outside exactly the same (190
deg) and the center 5 deg lower.
My instructor consultant said that was
perfect. The left sides were about
165 deg, also within 5 deg on all three
readings. Marshalltown has mostly
left turns, which puts all the stress on
the right front, so it reads
higher temps.
So, for what it's worth, a
setting of minus 1 deg camber, +0.15 toe and
maximum castor seems to work
pretty well, at least on a low-speed track.
We'll test again at the next
big road course event but, for now, I think
I'll leave the settings alone. On
the advice of several folks here, I plan
to put the bump stops back in and
get the car realigned, but we'll stick
with those settings.
Results?
When I ran Marshalltown last year, I got down to 42.1 sec, running
mostly in
the mid 42s. Today, I was lapping in the low 41 second range,
once dipping
into the 40s. So, the suspension and camber plates are good
for about one
second off on a 0.7 mile course.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Eibachs,
lowered, Ground Control camber kit, Big Red Porsche Turbo
calipers, Pagid
Blacks, air ducts, SS brake lines, water injection brake
cooling, Yoko 032R
tires, stock engine.
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 21:19:20 -0700
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Ok. My 1st ENGINE TROUBLE post. HELP!
Alright.. I let me
cousin borrow my car (1st mistake), a 1992 Stealth
TT with 15G's and all
necessary electronics/fuel/intake/injectors etc.
I've never had trouble with
the engine before but today, I started up my
car and the motor starts to make
a clanking sound. When I rev it up, I
get some HARD banging noises from
what seems to be the rear bank of
cylinders. It's random in occurance,
and sound, but it doesn't sound
very good.
I took it down the street,
and it's LOUD... Clanging and banging around
it seems. I tried
some boost (maybe not a good idea) just to see if it
would rev up some and it
seems to go up in RPM and boost just fine, but
the banging around in the
engine compartment continues to be loud.
What is weird, tho, is that I
can FEEL the engine in my clutch petal as
well. When I let it out
slowly while decelerating, I can feel a rapid
"clank." My
clutch is old, tired, and needed to be replaced quite a
while ago. But
I'm not too savy with engine troubles, and haven't ruled
out a worn out
clutch/flywheel/bearing.
If anyone would have some ideas, I would greatly
appreciate it. This
sounds serious to me and need to be prepared for
the worst. Any
possible ideas as to the cause of the noise, or (if the
block isn't
mared) what kind of a price it's gonna be to replace the
pistons/etc.?
Thank you very much for any advice.
John
As on
now, Twin Turbo-less..... :(
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 10 May 2000 20:42:30 -0700
From: "Jim Berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Testing Day for camber plates
Merritt wrote:
> We rented the
track ($50 per car, up from last year), and I ran about 75
> laps. It was
a nice warm day, and I could run about 10-12 laps at a time
> before the
temperature gauge crept up toward hot.
Hmmmm !!!! I don't have any
laps when outside temp is hot but I've not heard
anyone complain about
overheating at speed. Have you flushed the system or
tried one of the water
wetters [ redline makes one ]
???
===================================================
> When I
run the Pagid Blacks on the street, they generate gobs of black
> dust.
Today, nearly no dust. I don't know if this is because they are
> finally
bedded in, or if they dust badly when street cold, or what. I
> haven't
checked the pads for wear yet.
I had the pagid blacks and agree about
the damn black dust --- they also
chewed up a set of rotors in short order. I
now have the Porterfield [ non-
cryo --- I was in a rush ] and the R4 pads.
Dust is no longer a problem and
I don't have enough time on them to see how
they affect the
rotors.
======================================================
>
> We installed camber plates 3 weeks ago, and set the camber to one
degree
> negative in the front, with +0.15 deg toe. When we used a
pryrometer on the
> tires today, the right side fronts read within 5 deg
across, with the
> inside and outside exactly the same (190 deg) and the
center 5 deg lower.
> My instructor consultant said that was perfect. The
left sides were about
> 165 deg, also within 5 deg on all three readings.
Marshalltown has mostly
> left turns, which puts all the stress on the
right front, so it reads
> higher temps.
I have a write-up done for
Tire Rack about measuring tire temps if you're
interested --- just let me
know and I'll forward it to
you.
Jim
berry
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 05:58:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Water injection mounting.
I think Matt at Dynamic Racing uses
the rear washer bottle,
Roger G. uses the European headlight washer bottle
(in front
fender), Mikael A. moved the battery to the rear
compartment,
and others use the front washer bottle. I am planning to
add
this upgrade next year so I am also interested in
responses/solutions
[pun intended :)].
PS. another Team3S address change?
Jeff Lucius,
3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 7:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Water injection
mounting..
Im not in the mood to reinvent our battery, and Im having
a
tough time with alternate locations to mount the res. for
the
water.
Any other
ideas?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 08:10:38 -0500
From: "Brett Russell" <
brussell@powercom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Gas cover release
Hey all, I'm having a bit of a problem with my
3000 this morning; my gas
tank cover won't open. I can hear the sound
like it's releasing when I pull
the lever all the way up (it only makes the
sound at the very last point,
not as soon as I lift it like my Stealth did),
but the cover stays in place.
It's still attached, as I cannot gently pry it
open, but if I press on it I
hear a click like it's reattaching. I took
apart the lever assembly last
night in hopes that I just needed to adjust
something, but I didn't see
anyplace to tighten the cable or anything.
Has anyone experienced anything
like this? I fear I may have to take it
to our town Dodge dealership, as my
Mitsubishi dealer is ~60 miles away and I
don't have enough gas to get
there. Does anyone have any ideas on how I
could fix this myself?
Thanks,
Brett
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 15:40:28 +0200
From: "R.G." <
robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Water injection mounting..
> Im not in the mood to reinvent
our battery, and Im having a tough time
> with alternate locations to
mount the res. for the water.
This highly depends on what system is
mounted. We also have a water bottle
in the rear for the washer that is
almost never used. But it is small and
I'm not sure if it has a level sensor.
If you use the pre-pressurized system
then you cannot use a normal
bottle.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 07:29:04 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Water injection mounting.
No..not another address
change..whoops!
I just send the team3s mail from my account on the server
which hosts the domo
list..thats all. (its still a valid address..that
and many others are just
virtuals domains being served)
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Lucius [
mailto:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Thursday, May 11, 2000 5:59 AM
To:
team3s@www.speedtoys.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Water injection mounting.
I think Matt at Dynamic Racing
uses the rear washer bottle,
Roger G. uses the European headlight washer
bottle (in front
fender), Mikael A. moved the battery to the rear
compartment,
and others use the front washer bottle. I am planning to
add
this upgrade next year so I am also interested in
responses/solutions
[pun intended :)].
PS. another Team3S address change?
Jeff Lucius,
3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
-->
http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 7:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Water injection
mounting..
Im not in the mood to reinvent our battery, and Im having
a
tough time with alternate locations to mount the res. for
the
water.
Any other
ideas?
__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 10:57:28 -0400
From: "Heikki Pikkujamsa" <
hpikkujamsa@compuserve.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SX FPR
Does any of you have installed SX FPR? I plan to feed both
fuel rails from
the left side, then connect the FPR directly to the other end
of rails. But
there is very limited space between the rear turbo pipe/upper
intake
manifold and I might not be able to squeeze the FPR between them. Any
ideas?
I'd rather not run fuel hoses around the engine bay if I can avoid
it.
Heikki
'92 R/T TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 08:23:42 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Water injection mounting..
I guess you missed the.."> Im
not in the mood to reinvent our battery, and Im
having a tough time
>
with alternate locations to mount the res. for the water."
part.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oskar [
mailto:swede@pclink.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
May 10, 2000 7:58 PM
To: Geoff Mohler; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water
injection mounting..
You can get a smaller battery such as the
Odyssey ($159 from
www.jegs.com).
This is
the same battery as the now discontinued Black Panther.
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 8:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Water injection
mounting..
> Im not in the mood to reinvent our battery, and Im
having a tough time
> with alternate locations to mount the res. for the
water.
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> ---
> I LUV YOU
VIRUS UPDATE!
>
> *Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that
you decided to open an
attachment listed as
> a love letter from nobody
you know? This isnt a virus thats choking Email
server, its
>
intelligently deciding who should have thier computers taken away
by
force.
> ---
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 08:27:37 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Ok. My 1st ENGINE TROUBLE post. HELP!
Busted piston/rod.
Youre probly already past the point of being able to
reconstruct the
cylinders if youve let it bang around this long already.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: vect0r0 [
mailto:vect0r0@ix.netcom.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 9:19 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Ok. My 1st ENGINE TROUBLE post. HELP!
Alright..
I let me cousin borrow my car (1st mistake), a 1992 Stealth
TT with 15G's and
all necessary electronics/fuel/intake/injectors etc.
I've never had trouble
with the engine before but today, I started up my
car and the motor starts to
make a clanking sound. When I rev it up, I
get some HARD banging noises
from what seems to be the rear bank of
cylinders. It's random in
occurance, and sound, but it doesn't sound
very good.
I took it down
the street, and it's LOUD... Clanging and banging around
it
seems. I tried some boost (maybe not a good idea) just to see if
it
would rev up some and it seems to go up in RPM and boost just fine,
but
the banging around in the engine compartment continues to be
loud.
What is weird, tho, is that I can FEEL the engine in my clutch
petal as
well. When I let it out slowly while decelerating, I can feel
a rapid
"clank." My clutch is old, tired, and needed to be
replaced quite a
while ago. But I'm not too savy with engine troubles,
and haven't ruled
out a worn out clutch/flywheel/bearing.
If anyone
would have some ideas, I would greatly appreciate it. This
sounds
serious to me and need to be prepared for the worst. Any
possible ideas
as to the cause of the noise, or (if the block isn't
mared) what kind of a
price it's gonna be to replace the pistons/etc.?
Thank you very much for any
advice.
John
As on now, Twin Turbo-less.....
:(
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 10:28:27 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Water injection mounting..
Jeff,
About the only other option
you have is to mount it in the front
bumper. I have some pics of this
type of install on my web site.
www.geocities.com/jbasol <
http://www.geocities.com/jbasol>
Select 1995 Dodge Stealth on the index frame. About half way down
the
Stealth page you'll find a pic of the Spearco tank mounted in my
front
bumper. The location seems to work fine. Filling the tank
is only slightly
more difficult than an underhood mounting. Good
luck.
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com [
SMTP:jeff.mohler@netapp.com]
Sent:
Thursday, May 11, 2000 10:24 AM
To:
swede@pclink.com;
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com;
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Water injection mounting..
I guess you missed the..">
Im not in the mood to reinvent our
battery, and Im
having a tough
time
> with alternate locations to mount the res. for the water."
part.
-----Original Message-----
From: Oskar [
mailto:swede@pclink.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
May 10, 2000 7:58 PM
To: Geoff Mohler; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water
injection mounting..
You can get a smaller battery such as the
Odyssey ($159 from
www.jegs.com).
This
is the same battery as the now discontinued Black Panther.
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To:
<
team3s@www.speedtoys.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 10, 2000 8:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Water injection
mounting..
> Im not in the mood to reinvent our battery, and Im
having a tough
time
> with alternate locations to mount the res. for
the water.
>
> Any other ideas?
>
> ---
> I LUV
YOU VIRUS UPDATE!
>
> *Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_
that you decided to
open an
attachment listed as
> a love letter
from nobody you know? This isnt a virus thats
choking Email
server,
its
> intelligently deciding who should have thier computers taken
away
by
force.
> ---
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 11:11:06 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Minnesota 3/S updates (off topic)
Hey everyone,
I've made
some huge updates to my "Minnesota 3/S" website.
http://www.mn3s.orgI have a few bugs to
work out of it, but for the most part it is complete.
Minnesota 3/S is
packed with good information on mods, links, drag racing
times, local stuff,
gatherings and 3/S optional equipment. Did you know
that MN 3/S has
had 22 offical gatherings in the last 18 months?? And many
more
"unoffical" events.
At last count, the website had over 50
pages to it. There are so many
pictures on this site that it takes up
over 16 meg! And now it is easier to
navigate with the frames bar on
the left. So take some time, and browse
around....
One other
thing. The Upper Midwest Gathering is fast approaching. Only 8
days left to get signed up and make hotel arrangements. All the
details are
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.htmlGot
comments?? Send them to me privatly. Thanks!
Thanks for
listening,
Curt
MN 3/S #001
http://www.mn3s.org________________________________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 10:38:30 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Calculated boost behaviour with 13g
Roger,
This graph
you calculated from injector frequency is very interesting but IMHO
doesn't
seem representative of true boost. It shows you don't reach 14.5
psi
until almost 4100 RPM and also the curve has a noticable hump. For
a contrast,
my '91 with stock 9B's controlled with an SAVC-R and stock
exhaust & cats will
reach 14.2 psi (visually measured by my SPI gauge and
corroberated with the
SAVC-R gauge last night) between 3200-3400 RPM
depending upon the gear
(2nd-4th), the incline of the road, and how quick I
shift my gaze from the SPI
boost gauge to the RPM gauge. The SAVC-R
graph modes also always show a very
flat line from 3400-5100 RPM or so (Note:
I have boost set to 1.05 from 4K-5K
RPM and 1.00 every where else). For
larger turbos, I would expect it to take a
little longer, but not 800 RPM
longer, to reach only 14.5 psi, and I'd also
expect a flatter line through
higher RPM before boost falls. How accurate do
you feel your graph
is? While it is accurate as far as your ECU & injectors
are
concerned, I'd guess it is a little pessimistic of what your true boost
really
is.
Ken
> Ok, since we cannot log boost completely
with the datalogger or any device I
> thought of calculating boost for
analysing purposes upon the measured data
> like rpm and air flow
frequency read by the ECU. Unfortunately, with small
> injectors, the air
flow signal is maxed out at around 1260Hz and don't go
> higher. Correctly
said, the data sent by the ECU doesn't contain higher
> values. Now with
the 720cc installed the frequency is half and now do NOT
> exceed the
highest value (at least around 15psi). This now enables me to use
> the
recorded values for the calculation (hurray !!)
>
> For this I
simply pressed the reset button on the DSBC at 4000rpm and got a
>
reference boost there. This then gave me the divider I need to get the
>
correct factor to calculate boost out of the simple air-flow formula. So
far
> it seems that this works pretty good although below 8 psi it seems
not to be
> correct (also no vacuum of course). But for reading the turbos
boost
> behaviour the intersting range is between 3000 and 7000 rpm where
we like to
> know how fast they fall off. I put the recorded data and
formula together
> and the result looks like the curve the S-AVC-R2 can
draw on its display.
>
> The result is shown in the attached pic
(gif,15kB). Please note that this
> was on an slightly uphill road, with
the engine under full load in 3rd gear.
> I floored at 2500 up to 6900
(glowing brakes afterwards). Boost was set to
> around 15 psi (DSBC). This
resulted in lower boost in the lower rpm area as
> I usually do have 14
psi at 3200 rpm.Therefore, the interesting part is the
> fall off after
4500 rpm. With this data we can see that the 13g fall down to
> 13.4psi at
6000 rpm. This is about 2.5 psi more than the 9b but I can't say
> for
sure.
>
> Therefore I badly need another datalog from a 3s with
720cc too BUT stock 9b
> or any other turbos. Please send me a similar log
with flooring the car
> under full load from 2000 - 7000. I know this is
hard to do but should be
> possible on a highway ;-)
>
> If
anyone is interested in the Excel (CSV) files just drop me a mail and I
>
send it to you.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
- --
If
you're not the lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 10:44:08 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Testing Day for camber plates
Hi Rich,
> We
installed camber plates 3 weeks ago, and set the camber to one degree
>
negative in the front, with +0.15 deg toe. When we used a pryrometer on
the
> tires today, the right side fronts read within 5 deg across, with
the
> inside and outside exactly the same (190 deg) and the center 5 deg
lower.
> My instructor consultant said that was perfect. The left sides
were about
> 165 deg, also within 5 deg on all three readings.
Marshalltown has mostly
> left turns, which puts all the stress on the
right front, so it reads
> higher temps.
I thought the ideal was to
have the same temps across the whole contact patch.
If so, then your tire
pressure should have been raised until the center temp
matched the
edges. The good news is your camber & caster yielded the same
temps
on the edges for that track -- good job!
- --
If you're not the
lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 11:39:08 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Testing Day for camber plates
Exactly, I was wondering about that
as well, -5deg center patch isnt
optimal..its a large difference in
fact.
Go up 2psi...retest.
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Ken Middaugh [
mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Thursday, May 11, 2000 10:44 AM
To: Merritt
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: Testing Day for camber plates
Hi Rich,
> We
installed camber plates 3 weeks ago, and set the camber to one degree
>
negative in the front, with +0.15 deg toe. When we used a pryrometer on
the
> tires today, the right side fronts read within 5 deg across, with
the
> inside and outside exactly the same (190 deg) and the center 5 deg
lower.
> My instructor consultant said that was perfect. The left sides
were about
> 165 deg, also within 5 deg on all three readings.
Marshalltown has mostly
> left turns, which puts all the stress on the
right front, so it reads
> higher temps.
I thought the ideal was to
have the same temps across the whole contact patch.
If so, then your tire
pressure should have been raised until the center temp
matched the
edges. The good news is your camber & caster yielded the same
temps
on the edges for that track -- good job!
- --
If you're not the
lead car, your view never changes!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 14:27:49 -0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Testing Day for camber plates
>I thought the ideal was to
have the same temps across the whole contact
patch.
>If so, then your
tire pressure should have been raised until the center temp
>matched the
edges. The good news is your camber & caster yielded the
same
temps
>on the edges for that track -- good job!
My
instructor said that readings within 5 deg across the tire were perfect.
If
the difference had been substantial, then you would be right.
>--
Rich/old poop
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 12:16:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Testing Day for camber plates
But -5deg down the center of
the patch?
I see that as large, because thats a sign of the tire not
keeping a
consistent face to the ground when you load it..the face is
deforming
under load some.
If he says 5 is ok....
- ---
I
LUV YOU VIRUS UPDATE!
*Are you really that lonely and _pathetic_ that you
decided to open an attachment listed as
a love letter from nobody you
know? This isnt a virus thats choking Email server, its
intelligently
deciding who should have thier computers taken away by force.
- ---
On
Thu, 11 May 2000, Merritt wrote:
>
> >I thought the ideal
was to have the same temps across the whole contact
> patch.
>
>If so, then your tire pressure should have been raised until the center
temp
> >matched the edges. The good news is your camber &
caster yielded the same
> temps
> >on the edges for that track --
good job!
>
> My instructor said that readings within 5 deg across
the tire were perfect.
> If the difference had been substantial, then you
would be right.
> >--
> Rich/old poop
>
>
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 11 May 2000 16:13:53
EDT
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Idling Trouble
I wonder if anyone can help me diagnose a weird
idling problem. First off, my car (91TT) idles very smoothly, so rough
idle is not the problem. The cold idle is fine--no problems there.
The cold and warm idle are fine when I have the AC running--no problem there
either. The problem is when the car is warm and the AC compressor cycles
off. If the car is at a standstill and the AC compressor cycles off, the
idle drops real low (around 500), and then SLOWLY recovers to normal.
Also, if the compressor is not running and the car is warm and I gun the engine
(or just push in the clutch while driving), the idle drops really low and then
slowly recovers (within, say, 5-10 seconds). It does not stall and does
not spit or sputter or bog down or misfire or anything like that. I'm at a
loss because the car otherwise runs and idles fine. It is just when its
warm and the compressor is off. Any suggestions?
Joe 91
TT
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 11 May 2000 15:17:15 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Idling Trouble
Perhaps the Idle Speed Controller is getting a
little old and sluggish.
Anyone know a way to test it's
operation?
John Basol
'95 RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From:
TrboDrvr@aol.com [
SMTP:TrboDrvr@aol.com]
Sent:
Thursday, May 11, 2000 3:14 PM
To:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Idling Trouble
I wonder if anyone can help me diagnose a weird
idling problem.
First off, my car (91TT) idles very smoothly, so rough idle
is not the
problem. The cold idle is fine--no problems there. The
cold and warm idle
are fine when I have the AC running--no problem there
either. The problem
is when the car is warm and the AC compressor
cycles off. If the car is at
a standstill and the AC compressor cycles
off, the idle drops real low
(around 500), and then SLOWLY recovers to
normal. Also, if the compressor
is not running and the car is warm and
I gun the engine (or just push in the
clutch while driving), the idle drops
really low and then slowly recovers
(within, say, 5-10 seconds). It
does not stall and does not spit or sputter
or bog down or misfire or
anything like that. I'm at a loss because the car
otherwise runs and
idles fine. It is just when its warm and the compressor
is off.
Any suggestions?
Joe 91 TT
***Info:
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1
#132
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