team3s
Wednesday, May 31
2000
Volume 01 : Number
155
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 12:06:08 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Lenco
Transmissions?
Anyone know the location (All I know is Calif) of Lenco
Transmissions?
I'm trying to get their Tel # or Web site to inquire about a
custom made
tranny
for my car. I went this far... how much more can it
cost?
BTW, if the NASDAQ doesn't come back soon I'll need a loan to buy
gas.
Murphy's Law does it again :)
Arty 91 VR-4
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:18:30 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
That boost level is what you would see,
if no air was bleed off to the lines
to the wastegate actuators and the
stock boost solenoid wasn't bleeding off
air. You probably have the
tap to measure boost with the turbo timer
correctly installed. If you
stock boost solenoid is still hooked up with
vacum lines, it must not be
working. Check the wire connectors.
Do you still have that bleeder
valve hooked up?? It should be hooked up
like this:
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htmThat
little blue hose in the top pics is connected to the brass bleeder
valve and
the other end of it is hooked into the stock solenoid. If you
want to
test your boost, pull this bottom hose out of the solenoid. If you
get
a lot of boost, (ie. over 17psi), then your stock solenoid may be the
problem. Just don't leave this hose disconnected, because you'll hit
major
fuel cut and your car will detonate over time.
Does that make
sense??
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From: Matt
Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
>To:
stealth@starnet.net>CC:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
stealth@stls.verio.net>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
>Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 08:49:30 -0700
(PDT)
>
>Interesting.. I have a Blitz Dual Turbo timer.. which is a
digital boost
>guage and turbo timer. When I put it into each gear and
floor it, the max
>boost I hit is about .45-.48 bar. I know the car has
the stock boost
>selanoid too.. Is it possible that the boost controller
is actually only
>measuring boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i misplaced
the line? (I
>doubt it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible.. Because
even with this
>low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2 car
lengths.. which
>leads me to believe I have the right amount of
power..
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
Hey thanks for the pictures. Its been
months since I had the bleeder valve
in, but at least i still have it. I
believe thats how I did it, but i'll
try again. Thanks I'll try that today
and see if it works.
On Wed, 31 May 2000, Curt Gendron
wrote:
> That boost level is what you would see, if no air was bleed
off to the lines
> to the wastegate actuators and the stock boost
solenoid wasn't bleeding off
> air. You probably have the tap to
measure boost with the turbo timer
> correctly installed. If you
stock boost solenoid is still hooked up with
> vacum lines, it must not
be working. Check the wire connectors.
>
> Do you still have
that bleeder valve hooked up?? It should be hooked up
> like
this:
>
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm>
That little blue hose in the top pics is connected to the brass bleeder
>
valve and the other end of it is hooked into the stock solenoid. If you
> want to test your boost, pull this bottom hose out of the
solenoid. If you
> get a lot of boost, (ie. over 17psi), then your
stock solenoid may be the
> problem. Just don't leave this hose
disconnected, because you'll hit major
> fuel cut and your car will
detonate over time.
>
> Does that make sense??
>
>
Curt
>
http://www.mn3s.org>
>
>
> >From: Matt Wise <
diranged@south-park.cc>
>
>To:
stealth@starnet.net>
>CC:
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st,
stealth@stls.verio.net>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
> >Date: Wed, 31 May
2000 08:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Interesting.. I have a Blitz
Dual Turbo timer.. which is a digital boost
> >guage and turbo timer.
When I put it into each gear and floor it, the max
> >boost I hit is
about .45-.48 bar. I know the car has the stock boost
> >selanoid too..
Is it possible that the boost controller is actually only
> >measuring
boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i misplaced the line? (I
> >doubt
it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible.. Because even with this
>
>low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2 car lengths..
which
> >leads me to believe I have the right amount of power..
>
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
>
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:39:06 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Lenco Transmissions?
- ----- Original Message ----- From: <
Aso8@aol.com>
> Anyone know the location
(All I know is Calif) of Lenco Transmissions?
> I'm trying to get their
Tel # or Web site to inquire about a custom
made
> tranny
> for
my car. I went this far... how much more can it cost?
> BTW, if the NASDAQ
doesn't come back soon I'll need a loan to buy gas.
> Murphy's Law does it
again :)
> Arty 91 VR-4
Lenco is at 6470 Federal, Lemon Grove, CA
91945. 1-800-854-2944.
NASDAQ? +300 points in 2 days ain't
enough??? :-)
Best,
Forrest
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:54:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: jdorsey <
ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Starting troubles...
All,
I'm experiencing starting
problems.
1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to
the floor.
2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no
turnover
from the ignition.
3) If I leave key
turned to on, pump clutch
repeatedly, eventually the car will
start.
Can someone explain what's going on and what I need to
do to
get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
Clutch adjustment?
Easy fix, or difficult problem?
Any help is
appreciated..
Thanks,
JDorsey
'91 R/T TT
Pearl
White
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 09:57:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Starting troubles...
You need a new starter.
Starter
relay isnt firing as it should..common.
I mean, not "common" but what
you are experiencing is a common symptom of
a starter thats gone
out.
You may check your battery connections as well for
clean/tight
connections.
On Wed, 31 May 2000, jdorsey
wrote:
> All,
> I'm experiencing starting problems.
> 1)
Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to
> the
floor.
> 2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no
turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I
leave key turned to on, pump clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will
start.
>
> Can someone explain what's going on and what I need
to
> do to get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
>
Clutch adjustment? Easy fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help
is appreciated..
>
> Thanks,
> JDorsey
> '91 R/T
TT
> Pearl White
>
>
__________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
Messenger.
>
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>
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>
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:58:19 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <
jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Starting troubles...
2 possibilities.
1) the switch on the
clutch pedal is shot (won't let you start the car
if it doesn't think the
clutch pedal is depressed.
2) Battery is shot. After some time passes
you get just enough out of
it to get it to turn over.
I'd suggest
starting with the battery. Swap it out from another vehicle.
That'll at
least rule it out in a hurry.
Good luck.
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: jdorsey [
SMTP:ja_dorsey@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:54 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Starting
troubles...
All,
I'm experiencing starting problems.
1) Clutch is
fully engaged...pressed all the way to
the floor.
2)
Turn the key, hear the "click" but no turnover
from the
ignition.
3) If I leave key turned to on, pump clutch
repeatedly,
eventually the car will start.
Can someone explain what's going on and
what I need to
do to get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
Clutch adjustment? Easy fix, or difficult problem?
Any help
is appreciated..
Thanks,
JDorsey
'91 R/T TT
Pearl
White
__________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo!
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:01:31 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Starting troubles...
JD,
Have you checked the battery
terminals? It's possible that as the car
shakes from your "pumping", it
gives you enough contact to get it
started.
I hope it's that
simple... Good luck.
F
- ----- Original Message -----From:
"jdorsey" <
ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
>
All,
> I'm experiencing starting problems.
> 1) Clutch is fully
engaged...pressed all the way to
> the floor.
> 2) Turn the key,
hear the "click" but no turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I
leave key turned to on, pump clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will
start.
>
> Can someone explain what's going on and what I need
to
> do to get this fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
>
Clutch adjustment? Easy fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help is
appreciated..
>
> Thanks,
>
JDorsey
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 18:06:25 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
My transmission may be on the way out
(I'm hoping for driveline slop).
If it is and I ahve no choice but to get a
new gearbox I would be
interested in replacing my 5-speed with a
6-speed.
Is this possible?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:10:49 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
You would have to do the transfer case
as well.
I cant answer for the shifter linkage however.
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Tyrrell [
mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 10:06 AM
To: 3000gt
Subject: Team3S: Swap 5-speed
for 6-speed?
My transmission may be on the way out (I'm hoping for
driveline slop).
If it is and I ahve no choice but to get a new gearbox I
would be
interested in replacing my 5-speed with a 6-speed.
Is this
possible?
Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import
VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:11:06 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV SUCKS!
This looks the direction im going..but with
a 1g BOV. *heh*
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [
mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Saturday,
May 27, 2000 11:10 AM
To: Team3S List
Subject: Re: Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV
SUCKS!
> What is the best BOV I can get for a 95
VR4????
Get a 2st gen DSM replacement (Buschur ?) and you're fine with a
cheaper
price. Replaces the factory BPV and vents back to the
intake.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:19:22 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Starting troubles...
I have been experiencing this too for
over a year. I have replaced the battery,
battery cable post clamps,
starter, starter relay, and alarm start-disable
relay. I believe the
clutch switch is fine since when I hold the key on, every
time I press the
clutch I hear solenoids click. My cables look fine with
no
corrosion. I may try to clean the end that connects to the starter
to see if
that helps. Perhaps the Mitsu rebuilt starter is the
problem...
Good luck,
Ken
>
> All,
> I'm
experiencing starting problems.
> 1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all
the way to
> the floor.
> 2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no
turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I leave key turned to on, pump
clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will start.
>
> Can
someone explain what's going on and what I need to
> do to get this
fixed? Is it an electrical problem?
> Clutch adjustment? Easy
fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help is appreciated..
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 10:24:26 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bad throw-out bearing on clutch?
> Anybody know if the
shaft that the throw-out bearing rides on is replaceable,
> or is this a
permanent part of the transmission? (I believe it is called the
> nose
piece?) I suspect mine might have a grove worn by a bad throw-out
Try MD
Auto 619-390-0450 (their prefix may have changed to 858 or 760) for info
on
rebuilt Getrags and some parts.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Forget
world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 13:28:10 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Team3S: Lenco - Got it
Thanks
Thanks everybody. This list is the ultimate research tool.
Arty
91 VR-4
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 11:27:06 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Apexi avc-r
> I need help with my AVC-R. I cant get it set
up right. Why don't the RPM's
> read the same numbers as my tach i.e. 3000
rpm's reads 500. I just don't get
> it. I have not been able to get it to
"learn" anything. Can someone please
> explain some of it's functions the
manual is no help. What does F/B do, start
> duty do. Can any one offer me
any good setup programs that are working good
> for them. My car does fine
in first gear it boosts to 1.0kg/cm2 but in second
> gear it jumps to 1.13
kg/cm2 and in third it goes to 1.18 kg/cm2. I can get
> stable boost it
keeps over boosting.
Hi Alex,
I've sent you the following
information at least twice before. If you read it,
it should be very
helpful ;). Take note of the conditions required for
learning.
Bill & Henri's diagnosis about the purple wire is most likely
the
culprit. You need to resolve your RPM display before doing anything
else. Find
out if the purple wire is on the RPM wire, OR the injector
duty cycle wire, and
configure the Apexi appropriately. For best
performance, the wire should be on
RPM (you can use a toggle switch if you
want to change between the RPM & IDC
wires, you just have to change the
Apexi's settings each time). Also check your
sensors & throttle
position, etc from the "test mode" screen.
See post below for F/B, &
Start Duty explanations. Note that the start duty is
different than
your initial duty cycle setting. If your initial duty cycle
setting is
too high, or you will overshoot your boost setting at low RPM. If it
is
too low, you will build boost too slow.
Good luck, call me if you have
questions,
Ken
- ---- Included post ------
Here are a few tips on
setup:
The controller allows you to specify your desired boost
setting. You can also
specify a "beginning point" for the duty
cycle. During learning, the Apexi will
learn the correct duty settings
for specified RPM bands. It will also change
the display of your
setting, i.e 40% to "***".
Specify desired boost setting, no higher than
1.05 though for a stock fuel
system. Specify initial duty cycle -- I
use ~40% for peak boost of 1.05.
Perform WOT accellerations from 2000 RPM
to Redline. Do 5-6 accels in 2nd gear,
then 4+ in 3rd gear.
The
Apexi computer seems to always be learning if all the following criteria
are
met:
1) Throttle is above certain %, close to WOT (i.e. it only learns
when you
"floor it")
2) Boost pressure doesn't exceed your specified
setting
3) "Learn Gear" is enabled (for gear in which you wish to learn
in)
4) "Start Duty" is set to zero (for gear in which you wish to learn
in)
If you overboost, then lower your "beginning point" duty
setting.
I have Learn Gear normally disabled for 1st & 2nd.
During intitial setup, I
enable 2nd Learn Gear to quickly learn
settings. It is easy to do a half dozen
accels to redline in 2nd, and
much more difficult to find the road to get to
redline in 3rd or higher gears
;). After values are learned, I disable 2nd and
just let 3rd+
"maintain" the learned settings.
RPM rise so rapidly in 1st that 1st gear
learning isn't realistic. In order to
build the maximum boost in 1st, I
have the Start Duty set to +50%. A Start Duty
setting other than "0"
will disable learning mode for that gear. A Start Duty
setting is an
adjustment to the baseline duty cycle curve that the Apexi has
learned.
This allows you to control over and under boosting for
different
gears.
The FeedBack setting affects the speed of the
solenoid control. You want to
specify a setting as high as
possible. However, if the setting is too high, the
boost will oscillate
around the set point. Use the graph to see this. Start
high, then
lower the setting until boost stops oscillating and holds steady.
My
current settings (from memory)
are:
RPM
Boost Setting
0-4000
1.00
4000-5000
1.05
5000+
1.00
Gear 1 2 3 4 5
Learn Gear X X O O O
Start
Duty
+50 0 0 0
0
FeedBack
9 7 5 3 3
You could probably set Start Duty for 2nd to be +2 or so to get
a slight
overboost. 2nd gear accels are fairly quick so there probably
isn't too much
risk of detonation.
- --------------------
- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 14:30:07 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 25% off from CarParts (off topic)
Hey everyone,
There has
been a lot of interest lately in the getting the Borla twin turbo
exhaust
from CarParts. I have a 25% off link at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
This makes the Borla exhaust only $455.
The 25% off link lasts until
the end of May, which is today. The link may
still be active for a few
days, but I just wanted to remind anyone still
thinking about getting the
Borla.
Follow the directions on my CarParts page for the 25% off
links. You
actually have to click on a couple of different links to
get it.
If you have any questions or comments about it, please reply to
me privatly.
Thanks,
Curt
http://www.mn3.org________________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 14:38:41 CDT
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
Make sure that you tack on a
rear-end and driveshaft as well as shifter and
shifter
cables.
Mark
'91RT/TT
>From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>To:
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com,
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
>Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:10:49
-0700
>
>You would have to do the transfer case as
well.
>
>I cant answer for the shifter linkage
however.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gordon Tyrrell
[
mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
>Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 10:06 AM
>To: 3000gt
>Subject: Team3S: Swap
5-speed for 6-speed?
>
>
>My transmission may be on the way
out (I'm hoping for driveline slop).
>If it is and I ahve no choice but to
get a new gearbox I would be
>interested in replacing my 5-speed with a
6-speed.
>
>Is this
possible?
>
>Thanks
>Gordon
>Dublin, Ireland
>1993
Japanese Import VR4
>
http://fly.to/mr2.ie>
>
>
>***Info:
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>
>***Info:
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 14:04:22 -0700
From: vect0r0 <
vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: NEEDED: Timing/Belt/Cam Diagram
If you guys remember
before, I believe that I have a spun rod bearing or
a broken rod...
What I found out today is that I believe my tensioner
is broken! Either
the tensioner just broke and the timing is WAY off
which is causing the
noise, or I broke/stretched a rod or bearing which
caused one of the cams to
"freeze up" for a split second breaking the
tentioner due to too much
stress.
Any ideas on why the tensioner would be broken??
Down to
my question: I would like to know if someone could either scan
and post
for me the TIMING diagram so that I can re-adjust my
cams/timing or maybe
tell me where I should set it for a 1992 Stealth
TT. I can see the
marks on the front two cams, and the front pully, but
am NOT sure as to where
A) The timing shoudl be and B) Where the
reference marks
are.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thank
you......
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 18:31:12 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Web
page up
I know this isn't real technical and I don't have a problem that
needs
solving but if any of you folks have some time to kill and would
be
interested I have my web page up and running, if anyone would like to take
a
look.
If you want to see more of a specific item please let me
know.
My web page is:
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/Also,
some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized here about
two
months ago, well I even have a shot of that installed. As well
as
various powder coated parts and stainless nuts and bolts under the
hood.
Thanks,
Dave Best
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 16:04:00 -0700
From:
jeff.mohler@netapp.comSubject: RE:
Team3S: Web page up
swaybar.jpg (and the link name
itself)...
Thats a strut brace.
- -----Original
Message-----
From: WALTER D. BEST [
mailto:WDBO39@erols.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
May 31, 2000 3:31 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Web page up
I know this isn't real technical and I don't have
a problem that needs
solving but if any of you folks have some time to kill
and would be
interested I have my web page up and running, if anyone would
like to take a
look.
If you want to see more of a specific item please
let me know.
My web page is:
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/Also,
some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized here about
two
months ago, well I even have a shot of that installed. As well
as
various powder coated parts and stainless nuts and bolts under the
hood.
Thanks,
Dave Best
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
31 May 2000 16:22:10 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: head porting advice
Thanks for the head porting advice given
by Barry E. King, I needed this aadvice to resist the temptation to mess
up my heads. Joe Mondello is the head expert on oldsmobile engines and he
gave almost the exact same advice for all out performance on my 69 Olds, but he
had a few tricks for the shadetree mechanic: teardropping the casting around
valve stems, smoothing the radius directly around the valves,raising the roof of
the port slightly and never porting the floor except to smooth radius near
valves.
After reading Barry E. King's email I looked at my heads
closer today and noticed that none of these basic tips applied. The stock
heads already have excellent shape in all of the areas mentioned.
John K
Monnin
91 VR4 (in all 3 stalls of my gargage)
jkmonnin@altavista.com-
------------------------------
Original meassage below
From:
"Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Porting Heads
Definitely have them done
by someone who is very knowledgeable/experienced
and uses a flow bench. The
intuitive V8 tricks do not work properly on the
stock already awesome
flowing heads. Polishing does zip, BTW, as was proven
to me on two
separate flow benches. It makes sense since you want a certain
amount
of turbulence in the intake charge and mirror-polishing the exhaust
side
does nothing but lighten the pocket book and make unseen engine parts
look
pretty. Most often seen on Honduh err Honda that are slammed, bassin',
and have nothing except a 6" tip and a bottle of N20 and zero
traction. But
I digress. What little benfit may be seen on
some heads will not make a
statistically significant measurable difference
in HP or drivability.
The stock heads flow better than most
tricked out V8 heads and to squeeze
much more out of them you may (will)
sacrifice in other areas. However,
enormous flow can be had from these
heads. Backed up with big blowers and a
few more cubes and you're
easily into extreme HP range. Cams are needed but
so far noone seems
to have any that overall actually work better than stock,
and going with
higher lift (required for the next stage) is difficult and
very expensive
due to the head design.
Mine were done by a company in Phoenix
that specializes in fast Mustangs.
The guy had never done 6G72 heads but had
done a few Hondas. He was blown
away at how well they performed on the
flow bench right off the engine. He
managed to get a peak increase of
18% peak and 10-15% (min-max) across the
usable cam lift range. Low lift
actually suffered a very small amount but
this should not matter too much as
the added engine displacement (the block
was bored out and fitted with
larger pistons) will more than make up for any
loss of torque.
Anyway, you can expect a fairly good boost but it may be expensive
depending
upon how far you go with it. While it is apart, the valves
should replaced
as required and balanced, guides inspected and brought back
to spec, and a
nice radiused grind on the seats. The Extrude hone
process can be applied
to the intake plenum for an added bit of flow.
Barry
_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
http://jump.altavista.com/freeaccess4.go_______________________________________________________________________
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 19:36:12 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <
WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Web page up
OK, noted and will change the pic's name.
- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
<
WDB039@erols.com>; <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Web page
up
> swaybar.jpg (and the link name itself)...
>
>
Thats a strut brace.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
WALTER D. BEST [
mailto:WDBO39@erols.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, May 31, 2000 3:31 PM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Team3S: Web page up
>
>
> I know this isn't real
technical and I don't have a problem that needs
> solving but if any of
you folks have some time to kill and would be
> interested I have my web
page up and running, if anyone would like to take
a
>
look.
>
> If you want to see more of a specific item please let me
know.
>
> My web page is:
http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/>
>
Also, some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized
here
about
> two months ago, well I even have a shot of that
installed. As well as
> various powder coated parts and stainless
nuts and bolts under the hood.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
Best
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 19:37:44 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Re: head porting advice
What about backcuttingt the valves? Has anybody
tried that
?
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 31 May 2000 19:02:26 -0700
From:
Anissa.Mohler@netapp.comSubject:
Team3S: FW: Apex R Motorsports?
Hello all,
Has anyone used
Apex R Motorsports? Their web site is
http://www.apexvr4.com/ .
They say they
are focused on the VR-4/Stealth Market.
I'm looking to purchase a Greddy
Profec A and Turbo Timer and so far they have
the best price. I'm curious
though, their site lists a Greddy Turbo Timer with
wiring harness ... no
other site (including Greddy's) lists a wiring harness
specifically for the
VR-4... is this something I should worry about?
So, I need to know, are
they fast? and do they deliver what they promise?
and Finally, which wiring
harness should I get for my VR-4 if I buy a greddy
turbo
timer?
Thanks!
Nissa
95 VR-4
New water pump, new hood latch
and new motor mount... what a week!
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
Date:
31 May 2000 19:07:14 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 6-speed transmission in 1st Gen?
Will a 6-speed transmission work
on a 91 VR4?
I know that to convert to a 6 speed transmission that I would
also have to get a newer tranfer case but I don't know if the shifter will work,
or if there is any other incompatabilities?
Anyone done this
conversion?
The reason I ask is because there is a new 6-speed for sale
on e-bay the bid is currently $800 and the reserve has not been met
yet.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com91 VR4
_______________________________________________________________________
Why
pay when you don't have to? Get AltaVista Free Internet Access now!
http://jump.altavista.com/freeaccess4.go_______________________________________________________________________
***Info:
www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #155
*********************