team3s              Tuesday, May 23 2000              Volume 01 : Number 145




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 10:47:54 -0400
From: "wbuckingham" <wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car

My son went to prom and parked the car under a pine tree, needless to say,
the car is covered with hundreds of droplets of very sticky sap.  Washing
was of some help, but many remain.  Any suggestions on removal of tree sap
from finish.

Bill
91 RT/TT
#0438


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 07:54:51 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car

Should be fresh, just wash it off with warm soapy water.

Its mostly sugar..

Let it sit for a few months in the sun..thats different. *grin*

- -----Original Message-----
From: wbuckingham [mailto:wbuckingham@dmci.net]
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 7:48 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car


My son went to prom and parked the car under a pine tree, needless to say,
the car is covered with hundreds of droplets of very sticky sap.  Washing
was of some help, but many remain.  Any suggestions on removal of tree sap
from finish.

Bill
91 RT/TT
#0438


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 09:47:26 -0500
From: "Kyle Meyer" <kyle@logicaldirection.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car

I have removed ALL kinds of really nasty stuff from my paint with Meguiars
Quick Clay... It even claims to remove industrial fallout and paint
overspray. You hit it with the quick detailer, wipe the clay bar over it,
and it makes it feel like glass... If it's really nasty clay will adhere to
the car, and the easiest way to remove it is to use some Meguiars
Professional Show Car Glaze. Then do the clay again and it should take the
rest off. Then glaze the car and wax it, and it will look brand new!

- -Kyle
I tried this on a black '89 Bronco with original paint, and it made it look
like a MIRROR. I was absolutely astounded.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of
> jeff.mohler@netapp.com
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 9:55 AM
> To: wbuckingham@dmci.net; team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car
>
>
> Should be fresh, just wash it off with warm soapy water.
>
> Its mostly sugar..
>
> Let it sit for a few months in the sun..thats different. *grin*
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wbuckingham [mailto:wbuckingham@dmci.net]
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 7:48 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car
>
>
> My son went to prom and parked the car under a pine tree, needless to say,
> the car is covered with hundreds of droplets of very sticky sap.  Washing
> was of some help, but many remain.  Any suggestions on removal of tree sap
> from finish.
>
> Bill
> 91 RT/TT
> #0438
>
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:32:33 EDT
From: GC3000GT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tree Sap on Car

Hi Bill,

Sap can be a very tricky thing to remove.  You need to dissolve it, not scrub
it, and there are only a few solvents that will do the trick.  One is "bug
and tar" remover - which can be found at any good auto parts store.  No. 7
makes a good one for cheap money. 

Also, purchase a nylon net sponge (it's a sponge, with a nylon net
surrounding it), and saturate it with the bug and tar remover.  The net will
take the place of your fingernail that you've probably already tried.  :) 
Gently work the sap spots with the sponge, and it should loosen it up. DON'T
SCRUB, just work it gently - scrubbing can scratch and harm the surrounding
area.  If this isn't doing the trick - a little gasoline will do it, but use
this very carefully, since it can strip paint as well.  Just try to work and
loosen the sap spot only, not the surrounding paint. 

Once you've removed all of the sap spots - you may want to give the area(s) a
quick polish and a wax to finish the job, and give it some protection.  The
solvents most likely will remove any protection you previously applied.

Hope this helps,
Gregg
http://gcouture.tripod.com

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 08:44:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

I just replaced my fuel pump with a Denso 90 gph unit. It looked
basically identical to the stock pump except some numbers were
obviously ground off. On top of the stock pump it has:

Denso 2M27
195130-0810

The replacement has:

Denso 9U30
ground off numbers

Does anyone know why someone would grind off these numbers? Also,
I've added instructions for the novice fuel-pump replacer in the mods
section of my web site.

Thanks,

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 17:15:14 +0100
From: Tony Pickering <Tony.Pickering@scisys.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S: UK members

Hi,

I live in North Yorkshire in England and have just purchased a Mistubishi
1993 3000GT Twin Turbo - eurospec.

Are there any events for UK owners or even a UK club, formal/informal get
togethers,  anything at all?

Regards

Tony

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 13:11:02 -0400
From: Rick D <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

Where did you purchase the pump from?


At 08:44 AM 5/22/00 -0700, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>I just replaced my fuel pump with a Denso 90 gph unit. It looked
>basically identical to the stock pump except some numbers were
>obviously ground off. On top of the stock pump it has:
>
>Denso 2M27
>195130-0810
>
>The replacement has:
>
>Denso 9U30
>ground off numbers
>
>Does anyone know why someone would grind off these numbers? Also,
>I've added instructions for the novice fuel-pump replacer in the mods
>section of my web site.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
>Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
>   --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/
>
>__________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
>http://im.yahoo.com/
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 11:09:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

I purchased the pump from Matt Meyer at Accelerated Accessories for
$310. I don't think Matt would have altered the pump. Now is probably
not the time to bother the Meyers. I really wouldn't have noticed the
alteration until I looked at it carefully next to the stock pump.

Jeff Lucius

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick D" <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
"To: "Jeff Lucius" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>; Team3S"
<team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

Where did you purchase the pump from?

At 08:44 AM 5/22/00 -0700, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>I just replaced my fuel pump with a Denso 90 gph unit. It looked
>basically identical to the stock pump except some numbers were
>obviously ground off. On top of the stock pump it has:
>
>Denso 2M27
>195130-0810
>
>The replacement has:
>
>Denso 9U30
>ground off numbers
>
>Does anyone know why someone would grind off these numbers? Also,
>I've added instructions for the novice fuel-pump replacer in the
mods
>section of my web site.


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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 21:32:15 -0700
From: "Steve Gula" <mrelloco@eudoramail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bozz  exhaust (was Borla repost)

GT Pro sells it.. "Dual Cannon" exhaust system. off-road use only. www.gtpro.com

- ---
- -----------------------
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
- -----------------------


On Sun, 21 May 2000 18:28:01   Jason Barnhart wrote:
>I believe that Bozz Speed offers a true dual exhaust system for our cars.  It's about $1600 and I hear it includes downpipes (2 I guess).  It's a nice idea but I understand that there are some questions regarding it's effectiveness and I've yet to hear of anyone running or testing it.
>
>Jason
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 15:49:00 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Public thanks! RE: MW3si meet

Hell yea! I worked on the Stealth all week (when it wasn't hailing or
raining), and on Saturday. On SUNDAY, Mike and I went to the MW3si meet, in
wisconson (dells). Curt Gendron, the meet coordinator had scoped out about
60 miles of rural, twisty, sometimes unmarked, narrow road.

Well lets just say, in 60 miles we used as much gas as the 160 miles it took
to get there on the highway!

Blind corners, highspeed chases and overtaking of not only other commuter
cars (only about 5 in the whole "track", it was almost "abandoned" feeling),
but also other 3si people... all in good fun. I would say it was almost like
"sedated" rally racing because people wouldn't go through the apex of a turn
at full throttle... atleast not me! (someone almost lost it going around a
gravel/dirt 90 degree turn... and I was 2 cars behind... DOH! :)

You non-turbo and a/t people kept up just as well! I was surprised, it was
nice meeting yall as well. I wanna see the webcam thing when it's done!

Kinda dangerous? Yes. Kinda fun? no... it was SUPER FUN! Even my
wife/navigator (had the course map) had fun (not at first though!). We all
parked on the edge of a cliff and took pictures of about the 20 cars that
were there still on Sunday.

Driving around town in full 3si trim was fun, people trying to get on the
road had to wait for our caravan to drive through... one after another!
People in the neighborhoods would gwak and point, and people would yell
"mitsubitchy's!" (I think another even called Mike's car "mom look, a red
batmobile!" ahah!).

My repairs held up through what I call rigorous driving, and even the brakes
were good for the most part. On the way back home, I went for MY top speed
run, and hit 140 before I ran outta empty road (it WAS totally empty, don't
try this at all if there is even ONE car in front of you!). What a rush.
Mike was fun to drive with, he drives like I do, and his car is just as
capable... even though it's only a 3000gt Vr4 :).

Mike is the one that had the red 3000gt at the last CHIDSM busse woods meet
where Red and I provided grubs.

Now that the stealth doesn't smoke or squeal/screech, and has all it's
maintenance done, I can concentrate on the talon!

One quick question, does a bad wheel bearing cause your wheel to bind a bit
when slowing down? and make slight "thunk" noises? Can a CV go bad even if
the boots are great? What does a slightly busted front diff sound like (can
you have a slightly busted front differential??)?

PS: A public thank you to Curt and the rest of the mw3si people, that was
really fun! Hopefully next year we can come out for the 2-3 days, and also
more people need to come! Jack T, where were you! Ahmed, I heard you were
there, but addicted to gambling? Bad habit :). Zack, I met the guy you sold
the HKS exhaust to... damn it!!! That car looked sweet!

Thanks!

Vineet Singh < Dirty rims boy... Trust me, before this trip, they were
SHINY!


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 16:11:15 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: You guys/gals ROCK!

I don't know what's wrong IN the turbo, I just know that the turbo was the
source of the oil leak. I don't think it leaked much into the intake side
(since the IC pipes were pretty dry), but if you look at the exhaust side,
and near the center section, there is oil leaking everywhere.

Actually, the OUTSIDE of the compressor housing is covered with oil as well,
but I don't know where that is coming from. I assume it's between the center
section and the compressor (or "snail") part.

I also found that whoever installed the oil drain pipe on the front turbo,
used a lot of RTV. Not only was the gasket almost impossible to get off (I
razored it down, and then wire brushed it off... boy my arms hurt!), but
when they tightened the drain tube to the oil pan, the RTV was sqeezed
towards the center. I was appalled to see the actual hole that oil could get
back into the engine was only about 2-4mm wide! (stock is more like 10mm).

Since the oil FEED line is "pressurized", I have a feeling that maybe this
restriction caused too much pressure in the turbo bearing seals, since it
couldn't drain fast enough just by "gravity". The turbo itself has no play
in it, and all the fins are in good condition and it spins very well. Hmm,
the more I think about it, the more it seems like this drain tube was the
whole problem!

Well it's all good now, and I and the car are happy (Yes, I can tell when my
cars are happy!)

Vineet Singh
____
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: You guys/gals ROCK!

Vineet,

Good to hear you solved the problem, but ... was it the turbo or what was
the exact problem now ??

> I ordered all the parts from Conicelli mitsubishi (Josh, he rocks, he also
> has a 3000gt vr4 and Galant vr4, and great prices/service). They got here,
> and started on the imposing task of removing/replacing belts (pulleys were
> screeching), and the front turbo.





***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 14:34:29 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Update: Screeching on Engine startup

A big thanks to all who provided info, both publicly and privately. 

Had the car checked out at the dealer (who, after listening, said
bad starter or cracked flywheel).  The dealer mechanic then checked things
out and said that it was the starter and that the flywheel was ok.  (I was
pretty sure the flywheel was ok.)  So the starter needs to be replaced.

1) Is this a "don't start it at all until the starter's replaced" type
of problem, or is it ok to use it for minimal transportation?

2) The more important question:  anyone done this job themselves(Cody -
you said you did, right)?  The dealer here wants about $350 (1.1 hours
labor, about $230 for the starter, and $18 for an exhaust manifold gasket).
I figure it'd cost a lot less to make it a DIY job.  So, something worth
attempting?  I'm reasonably mechanically inclined (plugs, plenum, TB,
general service are no problem) and have a decent array of tools.

3) If yes to #2, any pointers?  Web page?  :)  Seriously, though, I
know the exhaust manifold gasket needs to be replaced - any other parts
other than that and the starter? 

Thanks!
- -Erik

BTW, just for clarification, this is actually my friend's '96 3000GT (base,
5-speed)

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          70,000 mi
   Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
   Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
   K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
   Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
   *** No more ticking lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
'94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla (DOHC, Auto)  66,000mi
    Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off the road" tires (must fix)
    Battery:1, Erik:0
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 15:55:14 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

The pumps come with the numbers ON them from Denso, of course.  To spend
time grinding off those numbers, the objective is obvious:  so the buyer
doesn't know exactly what pump they have bought...but why?  In this case,
there are many Denso fuel pump models out there, which look outwardly
about identical (except for the ID numbers) but FLOW way different
amounts/pressure capabilities.

The HKS pump is the Mazda Cosmo pump, and flows the most of any version
known; BUT from HKS it costs over $400.  I have never seen an actual HKS
pump box, because most always the source finds them for cheaper than HKS
and sells it to you as "the HKS upgrade" for 3000GT VR4 (etc). From Alamo
Motorsports, I got the "same as HKS pump"
ID  Denso 3U04   195130-0771 on yellow plastic plate on top.
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum:  K6

The Toyota Supra MkIV pump is also VERY good, almost
but ?not quite as good as the Cosmo pump, and is available
for $180-186 via internet, Toyota part # 23221-46110
ID Denso 7U12  195130-1020  in black plastic
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum:  K5

My stock 94 VR4 pump was
ID Denso 12N17  195130-0810  in light blue plastic
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum:  A1

If everybody knew the exact part number of the Denso
pump and where to get it at its source, cheapest, then
shops would not be able to sell them at any profit, so
some might not want that number to be well known,
who knows.  I guess I can understand protecting
some profit margin, it is tough out there sometimes,
but still, it'd bug me to not even be able to
know what I've bought, AFTER I've bought it!
Jack T.

Jeff Lucius wrote:

> I replaced fuel pump with Denso 90 gph. It looked
> identical to stock except some numbers were
> obviously ground off. On top of stock pump:
> Denso 2M27    195130-0810
> The replacement has:
> Denso 9U30     ground off numbers
> Does anyone know why someone would grind off these numbers?
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 18:20:26 EDT
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Need Transfer Case(And a Question)

    Hello all,
    Just wanted to put out a request to buy an 18-spline
transfer case. Anyone who has one for sale please
e-mail me or call me at 540-433-3289.
   Also a quick question for Jack or anyone with this
knowledge. How many splines are on the 1991 vs 1993
transfer case and do you count them where the prop shaft
goes into the transfer case input bearing?
                              Thanks,
                               Wayne

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 18:58:30 -0700
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
Subject: Team3S: Sport-Normal flashing

Dear co-owners Hi.
Here I have a troubleshooting question:
At the time I start the engine of my RT-TT the active suspension indicator
starts flashing with both modes  at the same time. Later goes off or to the
tour mode. I have notice that my suspension is not working.  So looks that
this is the alarm message. How I can read this alarm?  When is located the
computer? Some scans from the service manual will be highly appreciated.

Enjoy your cars
Thank you,

Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 18:51:52 -0400
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankcase filters (no one knows?)

I can't believe no one has installed crank case filters or knows where exactly they
go on our cars.   No one can figure it out with a shop manual?  I just can't believe
no one out there can help at all.

Thanks,
Jason


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 16:56:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

- --0-1102520059-959039783=:11003
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Disposition: inline

Thanks Jack,

I guess that makes sense now that you've explained it. BTW my upgrade
has K3 stamped on the bottom and the stock has R5 on the bottom. Also
now that you've mentioned it, I'm very bugged too. I'll take this up
with the Meyers after Matt is better and all and see what they say.
I'm counting on the 90 gph (340 lph) flow rate for my mods and would
like some assurance that is just what I bought. This pump was also
sold to me as "same as the HKS".

I've attached a JPG image of pump with arrow pointing to altered
area.

Jeff Lucius

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "xwing" <xwing@execpc.com>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "stealth@starnet.net"
<stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

The pumps come with the numbers ON them from Denso, of course.  To
spend time grinding off those numbers, the objective is obvious:  so
the buyer doesn't know exactly what pump they have bought...but why?
In this case, there are many Denso fuel pump models out there, which
look outwardly about identical (except for the ID numbers) but FLOW
way different amounts/pressure capabilities.

The HKS pump is the Mazda Cosmo pump, and flows the most of any
version known; BUT from HKS it costs over $400.  I have never seen an
actual HKS pump box, because most always the source finds them for
cheaper than HKS and sells it to you as "the HKS upgrade" for 3000GT
VR4 (etc). From Alamo Motorsports, I got the "same as HKS pump"
ID  Denso 3U04   195130-0771 on yellow plastic plate on top.
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum:  K6

The Toyota Supra MkIV pump is also VERY good, almost
but ?not quite as good as the Cosmo pump, and is available
for $180-186 via internet, Toyota part # 23221-46110
ID Denso 7U12  195130-1020  in black plastic
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum:  K5

My stock 94 VR4 pump was
ID Denso 12N17  195130-0810  in light blue plastic
Bottom of pump cast in aluminum:  A1

If everybody knew the exact part number of the Denso
pump and where to get it at its source, cheapest, then
shops would not be able to sell them at any profit, so
some might not want that number to be well known,
who knows.  I guess I can understand protecting
some profit margin, it is tough out there sometimes,
but still, it'd bug me to not even be able to
know what I've bought, AFTER I've bought it!
Jack T.

Jeff Lucius wrote:

> I replaced fuel pump with Denso 90 gph. It looked
> identical to stock except some numbers were
> obviously ground off. On top of stock pump:
> Denso 2M27    195130-0810
> The replacement has:
> Denso 9U30     ground off numbers
> Does anyone know why someone would grind off these numbers?
> Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476

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HdXRjJFmwRwAWLDcUqVJM59fvSpUqC//2Q==

- --0-1102520059-959039783=:11003--

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 17:07:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Sport-Normal flashing

Nikos,

You should probably get a service manual, as there is too much
information to give buy email. The method for reading ECS codes (with
an analog voltmeter) is slightly different than for the ECU codes.
The manuals on CD are a great bargain at $35 US at:

http://www.twingles.com/manualcd/3scd/

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Nickolaos M. Sgouros" <atenag@coqui.net>
To: "Team3s" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2000 7:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Sport-Normal flashing

Dear co-owners Hi.
Here I have a troubleshooting question:
At the time I start the engine of my RT-TT the active suspension
indicator starts flashing with both modes  at the same time. Later
goes off or to the tour mode. I have notice that my suspension is not
working.  So looks that this is the alarm message. How I can read
this alarm?  When is located the computer? Some scans from the
service manual will be highly appreciated.

Enjoy your cars
Thank you,

Nikos the Greek
92' RT TT
Puerto Rico


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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 19:20:58 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Crankcase filters (no one knows?)

> I can't believe no one has installed crank case filters or
> knows where exactly they go on our cars.   No one can
> figure it out with a shop manual?  I just can't believe
> no one out there can help at all.

Crankcase filters?  Do you mean PCV valve?  If so, it is located on the rear side of the front bank cam cover on the left side when looking at it from the front of the car.  Big ol' vacuum hose coming out of it.  I don't think there is a crankcase "filter" per-se.

I don't think your original post made it - this is the first time I've seen your question.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 09:17:34 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

Jeff,

> I'm counting on the 90 gph (340 lph) flow rate for my mods and would
> like some assurance that is just what I bought. This pump was also
> sold to me as "same as the HKS".

This is the same brown cap pump that has been sold to me as the 90gph one. I
wanted to make sure that it is but I never found any cross reference for it.
Since it is already installed I cannot recheck the numbers again but I
remember that I once asked the Meyers too but never got a replay.

Anyways, one will have to attach a fuel pressure meter to make sure pressure
doesn't drop at high flow. I will, when my fuel mods are really done
sometimes !

Roger
93'3000GT TT (I hate the rear bank 123 times more than the front one !)



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #145
*********************


team3s              Tuesday, May 23 2000              Volume 01 : Number 146




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:53:53 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankcase filters (no one knows?)

> I can't believe no one has installed crank case filters or knows where
exactly they
> go on our cars.   No one can figure it out with a shop manual?  I just
can't believe
> no one out there can help at all.

I can ! What would a "crankcase filter" do for us anyways ?
I already explained that one can install an oil catch can between the intake
and the crankcase ventilation as this will reduce the amount of oil sucked
in by the intake.

Roger
93'3000GT TT



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 09:09:25 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Paxton EFI FPR

I'm planning an upgrade on the fuel delivery parts and got the Paxton EFI
FPR (with -10AN) and
filter. Unfortunately, it seems that I lost the instructions and I wonder if
anyone has the page handy that shows the possible setups (fuel return line,
etc.) I'd be very happy for a scan of this page.

Thanks in advance,
Roger
93'3000GT TT



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:42:29 -0400
From: Brian Geisel <brian.geisel@compaq.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update: Screeching on Engine startup

Erik,
    Anything you do under that car is a lot easier with a full sized car lift
and
air pressure tools, but you can probably do it with a couple of cinder blocks
and the stock jack (I changed my clutchwith just said set of tools).  I'm
speaking from a 3000GT VR-4, that's all I know.

    It really wasn't too bad to get tot the starter.  Like I mentioned earlier,
it
was in the middle of the clutch job, and I don't quite remember where.
Anyway, you've got to pull the front underskirt.  It's like 20 bolts, but it
really isn't too bad.  Just a bunch of manual labor if you're just using a
socket
wrench.

    The exhaust comes off pretty easy.  You might need to pull a piece or two
of frame (their only like 2 - 3 ft long under there).  That's easy though, and
the exhaust downpipe should come off pretty easy.  I belive you're looking at
the starter now and there isn't much more to do.

    If someone else doesn't post and fix any parts that i just don't remember
and
probably glazed over, e-mail me off the list and I'll try to remember to look
at my manual and let you know.

geis

"Gross, Erik" wrote:

> A big thanks to all who provided info, both publicly and privately.
>
>         Had the car checked out at the dealer (who, after listening, said
> bad starter or cracked flywheel).  The dealer mechanic then checked things
> out and said that it was the starter and that the flywheel was ok.  (I was
> pretty sure the flywheel was ok.)  So the starter needs to be replaced.
>
> 1)      Is this a "don't start it at all until the starter's replaced" type
> of problem, or is it ok to use it for minimal transportation?
>
> 2)      The more important question:  anyone done this job themselves(Cody -
> you said you did, right)?  The dealer here wants about $350 (1.1 hours
> labor, about $230 for the starter, and $18 for an exhaust manifold gasket).
> I figure it'd cost a lot less to make it a DIY job.  So, something worth
> attempting?  I'm reasonably mechanically inclined (plugs, plenum, TB,
> general service are no problem) and have a decent array of tools.
>
> 3)      If yes to #2, any pointers?  Web page?  :)  Seriously, though, I
> know the exhaust manifold gasket needs to be replaced - any other parts
> other than that and the starter?
>
> Thanks!
> -Erik
>
> BTW, just for clarification, this is actually my friend's '96 3000GT (base,
> 5-speed)
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          70,000 mi
>    Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
>    Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
>    K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator bye-bye
>    Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
>    *** No more ticking lash adjusters(since 07/99)! ***
> '94 Algae Blue "Ain't No 3000" Corolla (DOHC, Auto)  66,000mi
>     Cheapo 185/14 "gonna slide off the road" tires (must fix)
>     Battery:1, Erik:0
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 05:58:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

Thanks Roger for the info,

I have a FP gauge and will keep an eye on it once the 720s are in and
the boost cranked up. Still waiting on TMO cable ...

Jeff Lucius

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 1:17 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump numbers

Jeff,

> I'm counting on the 90 gph (340 lph) flow rate for my mods and
would
> like some assurance that is just what I bought. This pump was also
> sold to me as "same as the HKS".

This is the same brown cap pump that has been sold to me as the 90gph
one. I wanted to make sure that it is but I never found any cross
reference for it. Since it is already installed I cannot recheck the
numbers again but I remember that I once asked the Meyers too but
never got a replay.

Anyways, one will have to attach a fuel pressure meter to make sure
pressure doesn't drop at high flow. I will, when my fuel mods are
really done sometimes !

Roger
93'3000GT TT (I hate the rear bank 123 times more than the front one !)

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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:30:50 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: A/C

Has anybody had there R12 air conditioning converted to the new coolant?  I
was wondering what was involved ($ wise) and if they had it done by
Mistu/Dodge...I obviously have a leak somewhere, since I just had it filled
with R12 last year and it's out again....plus the guy who filled it is no
longer in the A/C business.

Thanks


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 07:50:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC-2

Hi Oleg,

I can't tell you what your settings should be with the 550s and 9Bs
but here are my settings with 380s and 15Gs, which you can maybe use
for reference. Also, I have the first version ARC2 so the Accel
function has 0 at the bottom (6 o'clock) rather than at the top (12
o'clock) for Rev 2.

LOW   +6% or +3 clicks or 1:30
MID  -16% or -8 clicks or 8:00
HIGH +10% or +5 clicks or 2:30
Accel +2% or + 1 click

Trevor James has 550s and either 15Gs or 9bs and used the folllowing
for his Ver2 ARC2.
LOW   +8% or +4 clicks or 2:00
MID  -12% or -6 clicks or 9:00
HIGH -16% or -8 clicks or 8:00
Accel 0 or 12:00

For tuning without the datalogger, you should see the ARM1 cycle
during idle - adjust the Accell and LOW. For cruising at a relatively
constant speed or under light acceleration, the ARM1 should also
cycle - adjust MID. Under strong acceleration, the ARM1 should have
only the last 1 or 2 blue lights lit (rich) - adjust MID and HIGH. I
have found that if the MID is too low, the car will stall as I slow
down to stop. And if settings are too rich, she will bog down under
acceleration. LOW, MID and HIGH interact so changing one may also
mean changing another to compensate.

Hope this helps some,

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Red 1992 Stealth TT - modified
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Oleg-Telia" <Oleg@telia.lv>
To: "Team3S" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 3:54 PM
Subject: Team3S: ARC-2

Hi all,

I'll instal ARC-2 with RC 550 inj next week. Turbos - stock 9B.
Unfortunetaly I don't have datalogger, and it is very difficult to
tune ARC-2. How do you think what "low","mid","high", and "accel"
settings are best for car with this setup?

Thanks

Oleg
94'VR4


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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 08:16:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A/C

Jeffrey,

Here are some recent forwards from starnet that may be of interest.

Jeff Lucius

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To: <team3s@mail.stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2000 8:30 AM
Subject: Team3S: A/C

Has anybody had there R12 air conditioning converted to the new
coolant?  I was wondering what was involved ($ wise) and if they had
it done by Mistu/Dodge...I obviously have a leak somewhere, since I
just had it filled with R12 last year and it's out again....plus the
guy who filled it is no longer in the A/C business.

Thanks

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

############ FORWARDED FROM STARNET ###########
- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AI Nut" <ainut1@telocity.com>
To: <stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 7:29 AM
Subject: Re: A/C coolant

This may be why:

HC-12a (R) is flammable at room temperature. At around 2-3% in air,
you get a mixture that will ignite when exposed to a spark, lit
match, or lit cigarette lighter (flame type, not the heater type in
cars).

HFC-134a and CFC-12 are non-flammable, as recognized by the Society
of
Automotive Engineers, Underwriters Laboratory, and the American
Society of Heating, Refrigerating, and Air Conditioning Engineers.
These 3 are standards-setting bodies.

AI Nut

The Orsels wrote:
>
> There may be a viable substitute for pre '93 cars using R12
refrigerant. I
> asked for, and received literature from a company called Duracool.
>  One of their products which they call 12a is described as more
> environmentally friendly than even R134a, is more efficient than
R12, needs
> only 40% (by weight) as much for a full charge. They also say that
it's less
> prone to small leaks because the molecules are larger.
>
> It's available in 6 oz tins, 20 lb or 50 lb cylinders. A 6 oz tin
is
> supposedly equivalent to 17 oz of R12 (40%) costs $20 Can., about
$13 US.
>
> I've not tried it myself, but a friend put it in his minivan, went
to
> Florida and back to Ontario and said it worked GREAT.
>
> BTW, I'm not trying to sell this stuff, just passing the info on.
>
> Duracool is in Australia (email ; duracool@bit.net.au) and Alberta,
Canada,
> (duracool@compusmart.ab.ca).

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AI Nut" <ainut1@telocity.com>
To: <stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 10:48 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: A/C coolant

SJ, as you probably know, it isn't quite that easy.  Some compressors
cannot handle the smaller molecules in R-134a.  Also, all seals and
O-rings should be replaced -- hopefully that is in the "conversion"
kits that you buy.  There isn't any easy one size fits all solution.

AI Nut

sjc0u812@juno.com wrote:
>
> Folks:
>
> On older cars which originally used R-12.. as we all know "normal"
people
> cannot buy this anymore and at $75/pound US it is cost prohibitive
to
> have it
> put in anymore.
>
> The "new" refigerant R-134a WILL work in the old systems without
any
> serious
> modification! it is recomended that you replace the reciever/dryer
(as
> this
> unit pulls moisture out of the refrigerant). There are "retrofit"
kits
> out
> there for about $35 US.
>
> The critical thing that you MUST do is to evacuate the system
completely.
>  To
> do this you need to pull 25" of vacuum on the system for 1 hr, then
> refill with
> the new refrigerant. R134a works at about 80% as efficient as R-12
xin
> the same
> system, but 80% is better than 0% or $1000...
>
> Best,
>
> SJ

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg S." <wizards@mhtc.net>
To: <stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2000 11:24 AM
Subject: Re: Fw: Re: A/C coolant

That ... and the recommendation I've often seen is to replace the
Compressor with a heavier duty one as well.  Now that certainly isn't
required, but the A/C won't be operating at optimal efficiency.
According to some people I know that have done this, that's no big
deal ... as SJ points out, 80% is certainly better than 0% ... but I
still felt I should mention it.

AI Nut wrote:

> SJ, as you probably know, it isn't quite that easy.  Some
compressors
> cannot handle the smaller molecules in R-134a.  Also, all seals and
> O-rings should be replaced -- hopefully that is in the "conversion"
kits

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "AI Nut" <ainut1@telocity.com>
To: <ryanp@crcwnet.com>; "3000list" <stealth@stls.verio.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 3:28 PM
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134?

Ryan, I think you received an outstanding bargain from a shop.  You
could have done it for considerably less yourself if you had the
required tools and certs, about $2-3k worth.  For your other 3
vehicles, it is not uncommon for the American auto makers to use the
same designs for -134 as they used for -12, even when they were
marginal with -12! They would hate to have to spend a little money
and make stuff work in their $22-32,000 pieces of $hit.  I couldn't
believe it when I saw it, a Camaro and equivalents cost more than
$20k!  If that is the relative scale, our 3k/Stealths are true
bargains.

R-134, or any other blend for that matter, will work ok -- IF the
system as a whole is designed for it. I have heard numbers about -134
vs -12 as about 80% as efficient.  If your system is well designed
(that is, over designed), then the existing compressor, piping,
evaporator, cooler, and etc. will work just fine with -134. 

There are some mechanical worries due to the smaller molecular size
of
- -134 vs -12 but most auto systems should work ok in that respect.
However, it is very difficult to get all the old oil out of a
compressor and other components and the old oil will clash chemically
with the new that is needed for the -134.  So even if it works ok
initially, it may not last.  Also, some refrigerant will leech out of
any system over time, especially the rubber hoses.  At the same time
that it is leaching, it is sort of coating the hoses too so it is a
self-limiting equation.  You will never get 100% retention, though,
even if you don't change to -134.  So, eventually, we will all have
to switch over since -12 won't be available at all in a few more
years.

The biggest factor for most people is the exorbitant cost of -12 vs
- -134.  A 30 lb bottle is now $750-$1350.  Yes, it does depend upon
where you buy it.  Believe it or don't, the cheapest place in my town
is at Auto Zone and I have shopped EVERYwhere here looking for it.
Not to mention that you have to have the EPA certification to get it,
while you don't for -134.

Just thought ya'll might like to know.

AI Nut


Ryan Peterson wrote:
>
> I would have the same question. Why? This winter, one of my hoses
was
> cracked and I had to have the system bled, fixed and recharged.
Overall cost
> me about $300 including the hose ($150). Not too bad I think even
for R12.
> One thing to keep in mind. R134 SUCKS! My 91 SL is an icebox. My
last three
> trucks (Ford, Dodge, Chevy) have had R134 and the systems could
barely keep
> the cabs cool.  R12 was used for a reason. It WORKS! Keep the R12
and buy
> heavier sunblock.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wizards [mailto:wizards@mhtc.net]
> Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2000 9:55 AM
> To: stealth@stls.verio.net
> Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134?
>
> I agree with AIs recommendations ... but my question (not trying to
be
> antagonistic at all .. I'm just curious) Matt, is why do you
"really
> want to use the 134(a)"?  Because your R-12 system is dead and you
need
> a recharge and don't want to spend a mint .... or is there another
> reason?
>
> Greg
>
> AI Nut wrote:
> >
> > You need to change all seals and O-rings.  You need to replace
every
> > drop of refrigerant oil in the compressor and lines.  You might
have to
> > change the compressor, too.
> >
> > It is strongly recommended that you not leave the A/C system open
to
> > atmosphere for more than a few minutes while working on it.  At
least,
> > keep that to a bare minimum.  Acidic corrosion will set in
rapidly and
> > cause you all sorts of grief and $.
> >
> > HTH,
> > AI Nut
> >
> > Matt Booker wrote:
> > >
> > > Is there anything I would need to change besides the expansion
valve and
> > > drier to switch to r-134? I know it needs to be evacuated and
all, but I
> > > really want to use the 134.
> > >
> > > Matt
> > > ________________________________________________________________________

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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:12:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
Subject: Team3S: 1g Eclipse BOV

Just wondering if anyone on this list has installed a 1G Eclipse BOV on
their Eclipse.

I'm having problems since the stock BOV ends with a 90 degree bend and the
1g bov is straight. If I try bending the tube that hooks up to the BOV it
crimps it way to much so that's not a solution.

Any suggestions?

My mods so far have only been a K&N FIPK so recommendations would be
appreciated.

Michael


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 11:17:15 -0500
From: Trent Owens <twice_blown@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankcase filters

Jason,

I have a K&N Crankcase filter on my Stealth TT....  It is really easy to install....  I
will do my best to explain how I did it.

Between the turbos and the MASS (for TT cars) OR between the MASS and the throttle body
(for N/A) cars, there is a tube that runs from the bottom of the main intake (Usually
right after the MASS) that runs too and enters the plenum right after the throttle
body....  Remove the tube at both ends.....  Then you will need to remove the bracket
holding the connectors for the wires running to the fuel injectors and move it towards
the front of the car.  In other words, remove the two bolts that hold the bracket
down....  Move the bracket forward to where the rear hole is over the front hole and
just use one bolt to hold the bracket on.  (one bolt is more than enough)  You need to
do this because there is not enough room for the crankcase filter otherwise.  Then put
the filter on with a clamp.  Last you will need to plug the hole you made in the main
intake after the MASS.....  I used a small screw with a large head and gasket
maker.....  Make sure it is dry before you start the car!  ( I let mine sit over night
to be sure!)

The crankcase filter works VERY well....  Before I installed it my IC pipes had a slight
film of oil on them.....  After....  BONE DRY!  Not bad for $9!

Hope this helps!  Let me know if I need to explain anything better or if you have any
other questions about it!

Trent

Jason Barnhart wrote:

> I can't believe no one has installed crank case filters or knows where exactly they
> go on our cars.   No one can figure it out with a shop manual?  I just can't believe
> no one out there can help at all.
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


__________________________________________________
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Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 12:33:28 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Sway bars

I've heard before about Addco not making the 3/S sway bars until they have
10 orders.  If 10 people order from CarParts, that should get the order
pushed through.  If you use my 25% off link at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html the front sway bar (#587) will only be
$118 plus shipping.  See if Addco can beat that price??  I'm guessing they
can't.

I'm not sure why CarParts.com likes losing money on stuff, but if it
benefits us, I'm all for that.  :)

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
>To: BHurvitz@aol.com, bbedell@austin.rr.com, gemohler@www.speedtoys.com,   
>     Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com
>CC: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Sway bars
>Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 07:32:20 -0700
>
>I will have more info on a www page soon.
>
>You will have to wait till then, to dig into the group buy.
>
>..money up front will be required, just gotta decide how much..what addco
>has to
>say..pricing..etc.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: BHurvitz@aol.com [mailto:BHurvitz@aol.com]
>Sent: Friday, May 19, 2000 6:27 PM
>To: bbedell@austin.rr.com; gemohler@www.speedtoys.com;
>Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com
>Cc: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Sway bars
>
>
>I would also be interested in a sway bar group purchase. Are there any
>differences inthe sway bars between the various year cars, or are they all
>the same?
>
>Bob 91TT

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 14:49:35 -0500
From: "Mike Rappe" <mrappe@flash.net>
Subject: Team3S: Recomendations for 93 VR4 parts

I have a stock 93 VR4 and I just got the 60K maintenance
and timing belt done. I would like to improve the performance
of the car without extensive mods. I was thinking first of putting
on a high flow ari filter followed by a better exhaust system.
I would like to get recomendations for these. I have to drive my car
to work every day so It needs to be street legal. What about high flow
cats and a cat back system? How much money do these run? I live
in Houston Tx. and I don't know if there are any source here. How about
web sources for these parts. Are the cheaper? Reliable?

Thank You for any info,

Mike Rappe
mrappe@flash.net


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 14:07:12 -0600
From: Dean Knoepfle <speedfreek@uswest.net>
Subject: Team3S: tuning problem

I am fairly new to this board and I am very impressed with
the knowledge of the members on this sight. I have just been

observing for the last month or 2. I have a 1994 VR4 with
the following mods: IHI turbos, HKS VPC & GCC, 550cc
injectors,  HKS intercoolers, HKS Super Drager Exhaust,
gutted pre-cats, custom downpipe & y-pipe,  ATR  high flow
main
cat, HKS SBOV, HKS mega flow filters, ported & polished
heads, extrude-honed intake,  high flow fuel pump,  RPS
clutch,
Greddy Profec A boost controller, Greddy turbo timer, Greddy
peak hold gauges ( boost, oil pressure, 2-EGT's). Those are
the basics.

The problem I am having is that the VPC was installed when
it was about 50 degrees outside,  and as the weather got
warmer,
about 70 degrees it (the car) started to cut out. I was able
to get rid of the problem by turning down the gain knob
(leaning it
out) 2 clicks. Since then I have added the GCC and have been
able to fine tune it even better. I thought it was perfect
until
yesterday when the weather got above 85 degrees and it
started  to cut out under boost again. This time I was not
able to
correct the problem by leaning it out a little more.  I did
pull my plugs and noticed the performance shop that
installed them did
not gap my plugs down to .032-.034 instead he left them at
.037-.039.  Could this have caused the problem?  Any help
with
my problem would be appreciated.  Thank you,    Dean



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 15:14:18 -0500
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Recomendations for 93 VR4 parts

> I would like to improve the performance of the car without
> extensive mods.

For the most bang-for-the-buck, get a boost gauge and a boost controller.  Autometer sells decent gauges for a good price.  Get one that shows vacuum and boost to 20 psi if all you are ever going to do is street driving on pump gas.

For a boost controller, most people on here will recommend an electronic boost controller, such as the Apex-i Super AVC-R or Blitz dual-solenoid boost controller.  I have the HKS EVC IV, which works adequately well - although the accuracy of it has never been exceptional for me.

http://www.hksusa.com/html/boostcontrollers.htm

The other route to go for a boost controller is a manual valve, which if you decided to go that route to save cost I would recommend that Hallman boost controller.

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com

Set the boost to 14 psi at wide-open throttle and enjoy the ride.  14psi is in the reasonably safe range for these cars, assuming your fuel system is working properly.  With just that, you'll see an extra 30-40hp and the boost will come on quicker and stronger.

The car will look completely stock, and these modifications are easily removed if need be.  Exhaust is probably the next upgrade after this to make the engine breathe easier.  A K&N filter, removing the airbox, would be another cost-effective upgrade although there isn't really a noticable difference in power like there is with a boost controller.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 18:23:47 -0500
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: Recomendations for 93 VR4 parts

> ----- Original snipped Message -----
> From: "Matt Jannusch"
> The car will look completely stock, and these modifications are easily
> removed if need be.  Exhaust is probably the next upgrade after this to
make
> the engine breathe easier.  A K&N filter, removing the airbox, would be
> another cost-effective upgrade although there isn't really a noticable
> difference in power like there is with a boost controller.
>
Mike,

if you do decide to get an exhaust you might consider the HKS dual tip.  I
am selling mine and it is currently for sale on E-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=335608404
The dual tip looks much like the stock exhaust in that it has dual chrome
tips.  The tips are quite a bit beefier though, and the sound is nothing
like stock, much throatier.
E-mail me privately with any questions.

Thanks,
Oskar



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 May 2000 16:17:40 -0500
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Wheel selection? was (Mitsubishi VR-4 17" Chrome Wheels)

>Actually, the 18x9" Enkei RP01s are 21 lbs each.  I think I'm going with
them
>since
>this a considerable weight savings over my narrower 18x8.5" OZ Monte Carlos
@ 28
>lbs
>each.  I thought the RP01s were about the lightest thing out there.


What offset did you use?  Any interference?
Thanks in advance!
Regards,
ptg


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 22:24:05 EDT
From: AABOMB1@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Radar detector wiring

Hello everyone, I'm planning on buying a Valentine One pretty soon because of
all the positive reviews people have given it on these lists. I just have a
quick question:

I don't want to plug up the radar to the cigarette lighter since the wires
would get in the way and it would look real ugly, so, where would you suggest
I run the wire to? Any place near the steering column or any other wires
close by that I could use?

Thanks.

P.S. If at all possible, please send a copy of your reply to my e-mail
address. Thanks again!



AA

- -------------------
E-mail: aabomb@thepentagon.com <or> aabomb1@aol.com
Fax: (707) 982-8817 [In United States]

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 21:01:12 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug Q's

1) Has anyone tried the new Denso Iridium spark plugs?
They are advertised to be far superior to platinum.

2) Could someone give me a quick explanation of how
to choose a spark plug heat rating?  The Densos are
offered in 7,8, or 9, and I'd like to get a rough idea of
the advantages/drawbacks of a hotter plug.

Thanks in advance!

- --Errin Humphrey
Seattle


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 21:29:02 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: tuning problem

If you are running 15 PSI or more boost then yes, that plug gap could
account for the misses.

Try 0.34 and see if that helps.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----

<snipped>

> I did
> pull my plugs and noticed the performance shop that
> installed them did
> not gap my plugs down to .032-.034 instead he left them at
> .037-.039.  Could this have caused the problem?  Any help
> with
> my problem would be appreciated.  Thank you,    Dean


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 23:42:59 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Team3S: Normal Fuel Pressure...

What's the normal fuel pressure range on the TT's at 15 psi of boost?

Trevor
96 R/T TT
12.65@107.9
In need of new pistons...
92 GMC Typhoon
13.96@96.4


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 23:49:03 -0500
From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: TMO Datalogger on 94-95, OBDI/II

Just thought I'd let everyone know, I'm in the process of trying to get a
TMO Datalogger working on my '95 Spyder.  My early tests are not promising.
I made an adapter between the OBDII port and the TMO port and it didn't
work.  I also tried using the TMO cable with my adapter, but with OBDII
scanner software and no luck either.  I also tried reversing the data pins
on the TMO connector and it didn't make any difference.  I tried taking 12v
power from the fuse block and from the OBDII port and it made no difference.
(and of course, my OBDII cable with OBDII software didn't work cuz the car
isn't OBD II)

I have a few more ideas, but here's what makes me think the protocol is
different:

When I click "connect" on the TMO software, it doesn't immediately find the
logger/ECU so it brings up the window that lets me select COM port.  I click
"Connect" on that window with my COM port selected and it, most of the time,
gives me the message about the datalogger not found or 12v power not
connected.  If I click enough times it occasionally tells me it found the
logger, so I click "OK" to exit the COM port selection.  In the bottom right
hand corner of the logger window the status shows as "not connected" when
normally, as on my Eclipse, it shows a data rate (samples per second.)  Of
course, none of the functions work.

I'm still working on it, but we '94-95 guys might just be screwed, other
than the $2200 Snap On Scanner MT2500 with $300 Scangrafix software.

If anyone has suggestions, let me know.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 21:55:35 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: TMO Datalogger on 94-95, OBDI/II

The protocol is definitely different as verified a few years back by Todd
himself, and also through a few conversations with two different ODB-II data
logger vendors.

The 94-95 cars are an anomally when it comes to the partial implementation
of ODB-II and there does not seem to be any tool currently avaiable that
supports these years directly.



Barry

> -----Original Message-----

<snip>

> I'm still working on it, but we '94-95 guys might just be screwed, other
> than the $2200 Snap On Scanner MT2500 with $300 Scangrafix software.
>
> If anyone has suggestions, let me know.
>
> jeff


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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End of team3s V1 #146
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