team3s             Wednesday, May 31 2000             Volume 01 : Number 155




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Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 12:06:08 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Lenco Transmissions?

Anyone know the location (All I know is Calif) of Lenco Transmissions?
I'm trying to get their Tel # or Web site to inquire about a custom made
tranny
for my car. I went this far... how much more can it cost?
BTW, if the NASDAQ doesn't come back soon I'll need a loan to buy gas.
Murphy's Law does it again :)
Arty 91 VR-4

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:18:30 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...

That boost level is what you would see, if no air was bleed off to the lines
to the wastegate actuators and the stock boost solenoid wasn't bleeding off
air.  You probably have the tap to measure boost with the turbo timer
correctly installed.  If you stock boost solenoid is still hooked up with
vacum lines, it must not be working.  Check the wire connectors.

Do you still have that bleeder valve hooked up??  It should be hooked up
like this:
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
That little blue hose in the top pics is connected to the brass bleeder
valve and the other end of it is hooked into the stock solenoid.  If you
want to test your boost, pull this bottom hose out of the solenoid.  If you
get a lot of boost, (ie. over 17psi), then your stock solenoid may be the
problem.  Just don't leave this hose disconnected, because you'll hit major
fuel cut and your car will detonate over time.

Does that make sense??

Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
>To: stealth@starnet.net
>CC: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st, stealth@stls.verio.net
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
>Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 08:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
>
>Interesting.. I have a Blitz Dual Turbo timer.. which is a digital boost
>guage and turbo timer. When I put it into each gear and floor it, the max
>boost I hit is about .45-.48 bar. I know the car has the stock boost
>selanoid too.. Is it possible that the boost controller is actually only
>measuring boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i misplaced the line? (I
>doubt it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible.. Because even with this
>low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2 car lengths.. which
>leads me to believe I have the right amount of power..
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 09:28:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...

Hey thanks for the pictures. Its been months since I had the bleeder valve
in, but at least i still have it. I believe thats how I did it, but i'll
try again. Thanks I'll try that today and see if it works.

On Wed, 31 May 2000, Curt Gendron wrote:

> That boost level is what you would see, if no air was bleed off to the lines
> to the wastegate actuators and the stock boost solenoid wasn't bleeding off
> air.  You probably have the tap to measure boost with the turbo timer
> correctly installed.  If you stock boost solenoid is still hooked up with
> vacum lines, it must not be working.  Check the wire connectors.
>
> Do you still have that bleeder valve hooked up??  It should be hooked up
> like this:
> http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> That little blue hose in the top pics is connected to the brass bleeder
> valve and the other end of it is hooked into the stock solenoid.  If you
> want to test your boost, pull this bottom hose out of the solenoid.  If you
> get a lot of boost, (ie. over 17psi), then your stock solenoid may be the
> problem.  Just don't leave this hose disconnected, because you'll hit major
> fuel cut and your car will detonate over time.
>
> Does that make sense??
>
> Curt
> http://www.mn3s.org
>
>
>
> >From: Matt Wise <diranged@south-park.cc>
> >To: stealth@starnet.net
> >CC: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st, stealth@stls.verio.net
> >Subject: Re: Team3S: Flowmaster on a TT...
> >Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 08:49:30 -0700 (PDT)
> >
> >Interesting.. I have a Blitz Dual Turbo timer.. which is a digital boost
> >guage and turbo timer. When I put it into each gear and floor it, the max
> >boost I hit is about .45-.48 bar. I know the car has the stock boost
> >selanoid too.. Is it possible that the boost controller is actually only
> >measuring boost for one turbo somehow? Maybe i misplaced the line? (I
> >doubt it, it seemed pretty easy), but possible.. Because even with this
> >low boost, Ive raced Camero SS's and only lost by 1-2 car lengths.. which
> >leads me to believe I have the right amount of power..
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 09:39:06 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Lenco Transmissions?

- ----- Original Message ----- From: <Aso8@aol.com>
> Anyone know the location (All I know is Calif) of Lenco Transmissions?
> I'm trying to get their Tel # or Web site to inquire about a custom
made
> tranny
> for my car. I went this far... how much more can it cost?
> BTW, if the NASDAQ doesn't come back soon I'll need a loan to buy gas.
> Murphy's Law does it again :)
> Arty 91 VR-4

Lenco is at 6470 Federal, Lemon Grove, CA 91945.  1-800-854-2944.

NASDAQ?  +300 points in 2 days ain't enough???  :-)

Best,

Forrest



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 09:54:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: jdorsey <ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Starting troubles...

All,
I'm experiencing starting problems.
1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to  
the floor. 
2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no turnover   
from the ignition. 
3) If I leave key turned to on, pump clutch
repeatedly, eventually the car will start.

Can someone explain what's going on and what I need to
do to get this fixed?  Is it an electrical problem?
Clutch adjustment?  Easy fix, or difficult problem? 
Any help is appreciated..

Thanks,
JDorsey
'91 R/T TT
Pearl White

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 09:57:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Starting troubles...

You need a new starter.

Starter relay isnt firing as it should..common.


I mean, not "common" but what you are experiencing is a common symptom of
a starter thats gone out.

You may check your battery connections as well for clean/tight
connections.

On Wed, 31 May 2000, jdorsey wrote:

> All,
> I'm experiencing starting problems.
> 1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to  
> the floor. 
> 2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no turnover   
> from the ignition. 
> 3) If I leave key turned to on, pump clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will start.
>
> Can someone explain what's going on and what I need to
> do to get this fixed?  Is it an electrical problem?
> Clutch adjustment?  Easy fix, or difficult problem? 
> Any help is appreciated..
>
> Thanks,
> JDorsey
> '91 R/T TT
> Pearl White
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
> http://im.yahoo.com/
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:58:19 -0500
From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Starting troubles...

2 possibilities.

1) the switch on the clutch pedal is shot (won't let you start the car
if it doesn't think the clutch pedal is depressed.
2) Battery is shot.  After some time passes you get just enough out of
it to get it to turn over.

I'd suggest starting with the battery.  Swap it out from another vehicle.
That'll at least rule it out in a hurry.

Good luck.

John Basol
'95 RT/TT



-----Original Message-----
From: jdorsey [SMTP:ja_dorsey@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 11:54 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Starting troubles...

All,
I'm experiencing starting problems.
1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to  
the floor. 
2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no turnover   
from the ignition. 
3) If I leave key turned to on, pump clutch
repeatedly, eventually the car will start.

Can someone explain what's going on and what I need to
do to get this fixed?  Is it an electrical problem?
Clutch adjustment?  Easy fix, or difficult problem? 
Any help is appreciated..

Thanks,
JDorsey
'91 R/T TT
Pearl White

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Send instant messages & get email alerts with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://im.yahoo.com/

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:01:31 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Starting troubles...

JD,

Have you checked the battery terminals?  It's possible that as the car
shakes from your "pumping", it gives you enough contact to get it
started.

I hope it's that simple...  Good luck.

F

- ----- Original Message -----From: "jdorsey" <ja_dorsey@yahoo.com>
> All,
> I'm experiencing starting problems.
> 1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to
> the floor.
> 2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I leave key turned to on, pump clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will start.
>
> Can someone explain what's going on and what I need to
> do to get this fixed?  Is it an electrical problem?
> Clutch adjustment?  Easy fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help is appreciated..
>
> Thanks,
> JDorsey




***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 18:06:25 +0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?

My transmission may be on the way out (I'm hoping for driveline slop).
If it is and I ahve no choice but to get a new gearbox I would be
interested in replacing my 5-speed with a 6-speed.

Is this possible?

Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:10:49 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?

You would have to do the transfer case as well.

I cant answer for the shifter linkage however.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gordon Tyrrell [mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 10:06 AM
To: 3000gt
Subject: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?


My transmission may be on the way out (I'm hoping for driveline slop).
If it is and I ahve no choice but to get a new gearbox I would be
interested in replacing my 5-speed with a 6-speed.

Is this possible?

Thanks
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:11:06 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV SUCKS!

This looks the direction im going..but with a 1g BOV.  *heh*

- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Saturday, May 27, 2000 11:10 AM
To: Team3S List
Subject: Re: Team3S: OMG! STOCK BOV SUCKS!


> What is the best BOV I can get for a 95 VR4????

Get a 2st gen DSM replacement (Buschur ?) and you're fine with a cheaper
price. Replaces the factory BPV and vents back to the intake.

Roger
93'3000GT TT




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:19:22 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Starting troubles...

I have been experiencing this too for over a year.  I have replaced the battery,
battery cable post clamps, starter, starter relay, and alarm start-disable
relay.  I believe the clutch switch is fine since when I hold the key on, every
time I press the clutch I hear solenoids click.  My cables look fine with no
corrosion.  I may try to clean the end that connects to the starter to see if
that helps.  Perhaps the Mitsu rebuilt starter is the problem...

Good luck,
Ken

>
> All,
> I'm experiencing starting problems.
> 1) Clutch is fully engaged...pressed all the way to
> the floor.
> 2) Turn the key, hear the "click" but no turnover
> from the ignition.
> 3) If I leave key turned to on, pump clutch
> repeatedly, eventually the car will start.
>
> Can someone explain what's going on and what I need to
> do to get this fixed?  Is it an electrical problem?
> Clutch adjustment?  Easy fix, or difficult problem?
> Any help is appreciated..


- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:24:26 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad throw-out bearing on clutch?

> Anybody know if the shaft that the throw-out bearing rides on is replaceable,
> or is this a permanent part of the transmission? (I believe it is called the
> nose piece?) I suspect mine might have a grove worn by a bad throw-out

Try MD Auto 619-390-0450 (their prefix may have changed to 858 or 760) for info
on rebuilt Getrags and some parts.

Good luck,
Ken

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 13:28:10 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Lenco - Got it Thanks

Thanks everybody. This list is the ultimate research tool.
Arty 91 VR-4

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 11:27:06 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Apexi avc-r

> I need help with my AVC-R. I cant get it set up right. Why don't the RPM's
> read the same numbers as my tach i.e. 3000 rpm's reads 500. I just don't get
> it. I have not been able to get it to "learn" anything. Can someone please
> explain some of it's functions the manual is no help. What does F/B do, start
> duty do. Can any one offer me any good setup programs that are working good
> for them. My car does fine in first gear it boosts to 1.0kg/cm2 but in second
> gear it jumps to 1.13 kg/cm2 and in third it goes to 1.18 kg/cm2. I can get
> stable boost it keeps over boosting.

Hi Alex,

I've sent you the following information at least twice before.  If you read it,
it should be very helpful ;).  Take note of the conditions required for
learning.  Bill & Henri's diagnosis about the purple wire is most likely the
culprit.  You need to resolve your RPM display before doing anything else.  Find
out if the purple wire is on the RPM wire, OR the injector duty cycle wire, and
configure the Apexi appropriately.  For best performance, the wire should be on
RPM (you can use a toggle switch if you want to change between the RPM & IDC
wires, you just have to change the Apexi's settings each time).  Also check your
sensors & throttle position, etc from the "test mode" screen.

See post below for F/B, & Start Duty explanations.  Note that the start duty is
different than your initial duty cycle setting.  If your initial duty cycle
setting is too high, or you will overshoot your boost setting at low RPM.  If it
is too low, you will build boost too slow.

Good luck, call me if you have questions,
Ken

- ---- Included post ------
Here are a few tips on setup:

The controller allows you to specify your desired boost setting.  You can also
specify a "beginning point" for the duty cycle.  During learning, the Apexi will
learn the correct duty settings for specified RPM bands.  It will also change
the display of your setting, i.e 40% to "***".

Specify desired boost setting, no higher than 1.05 though for a stock fuel
system.  Specify initial duty cycle -- I use ~40% for peak boost of 1.05.

Perform WOT accellerations from 2000 RPM to Redline.  Do 5-6 accels in 2nd gear,
then 4+ in 3rd gear.

The Apexi computer seems to always be learning if all the following criteria are
met:
1) Throttle is above certain %, close to WOT (i.e. it only learns when you
"floor it")
2) Boost pressure doesn't exceed your specified setting
3) "Learn Gear" is enabled (for gear in which you wish to learn in)
4) "Start Duty" is set to zero (for gear in which you wish to learn in)

If you overboost, then lower your "beginning point" duty setting.

I have Learn Gear normally disabled for 1st & 2nd.  During intitial setup, I
enable 2nd Learn Gear to quickly learn settings.  It is easy to do a half dozen
accels to redline in 2nd, and much more difficult to find the road to get to
redline in 3rd or higher gears ;).  After values are learned, I disable 2nd and
just let 3rd+ "maintain" the learned settings.

RPM rise so rapidly in 1st that 1st gear learning isn't realistic.  In order to
build the maximum boost in 1st, I have the Start Duty set to +50%.  A Start Duty
setting other than "0" will disable learning mode for that gear.  A Start Duty
setting is an adjustment to the baseline duty cycle curve that the Apexi has
learned.  This allows you to control over and under boosting for different
gears.

The FeedBack setting affects the speed of the solenoid control.  You want to
specify a setting as high as possible.  However, if the setting is too high, the
boost will oscillate around the set point.  Use the graph to see this.  Start
high, then lower the setting until boost stops oscillating and holds steady.

My current settings (from memory) are:

RPM             Boost Setting
0-4000          1.00
4000-5000       1.05
5000+           1.00

               Gear 1 2 3 4 5
Learn Gear      X X O O O
Start Duty              +50 0 0 0 0
FeedBack                9 7 5 3 3

You could probably set Start Duty for 2nd to be +2 or so to get a slight
overboost.  2nd gear accels are fairly quick so there probably isn't too much
risk of detonation.
- --------------------

- --
Forget world peace -- visualize using your turn signal!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 14:30:07 CDT
From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 25% off from CarParts (off topic)

Hey everyone,

There has been a lot of interest lately in the getting the Borla twin turbo
exhaust from CarParts.  I have a 25% off link at:
http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html  This makes the Borla exhaust only $455. 
The 25% off link lasts until the end of May, which is today.  The link may
still be active for a few days, but I just wanted to remind anyone still
thinking about getting the Borla.

Follow the directions on my CarParts page for the 25% off links.  You
actually have to click on a couple of different links to get it.

If you have any questions or comments about it, please reply to me privatly.

Thanks,
Curt
http://www.mn3.org

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 14:38:41 CDT
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?

Make sure that you tack on a rear-end and driveshaft as well as shifter and
shifter cables.

Mark
'91RT/TT


>From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
>To: gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com, team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
>Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 10:10:49 -0700
>
>You would have to do the transfer case as well.
>
>I cant answer for the shifter linkage however.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gordon Tyrrell [mailto:gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 10:06 AM
>To: 3000gt
>Subject: Team3S: Swap 5-speed for 6-speed?
>
>
>My transmission may be on the way out (I'm hoping for driveline slop).
>If it is and I ahve no choice but to get a new gearbox I would be
>interested in replacing my 5-speed with a 6-speed.
>
>Is this possible?
>
>Thanks
>Gordon
>Dublin, Ireland
>1993 Japanese Import VR4
>http://fly.to/mr2.ie
>
>
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***
>
>***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 14:04:22 -0700
From: vect0r0 <vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: NEEDED:  Timing/Belt/Cam Diagram

If you guys remember before, I believe that I have a spun rod bearing or
a broken rod...  What I found out today is that I believe my tensioner
is broken!  Either the tensioner just broke and the timing is WAY off
which is causing the noise, or I broke/stretched a rod or bearing which
caused one of the cams to "freeze up" for a split second breaking the
tentioner due to too much stress.

Any ideas on why the tensioner would be broken??

Down to my question:  I would like to know if someone could either scan
and post for me the TIMING diagram so that I can re-adjust my
cams/timing or maybe tell me where I should set it for a 1992 Stealth
TT.  I can see the marks on the front two cams, and the front pully, but
am NOT sure as to where A) The timing shoudl be and B)  Where the
reference marks are.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!  Thank you......


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 18:31:12 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Web page up

I know this isn't real technical and I don't have a problem that needs
solving but if any of you folks have some time to kill and would be
interested I have my web page up and running, if anyone would like to take a
look.

If you want to see more of a specific item please let me know.

My web page is: http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/

Also, some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized here about
two months ago, well I even have a shot of that installed.  As well as
various powder coated parts and stainless nuts and bolts under the hood.

Thanks,

Dave Best






***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 16:04:00 -0700
From: jeff.mohler@netapp.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Web page up

swaybar.jpg (and the link name itself)...

Thats a strut brace.

- -----Original Message-----
From: WALTER D. BEST [mailto:WDBO39@erols.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 3:31 PM
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Web page up


I know this isn't real technical and I don't have a problem that needs
solving but if any of you folks have some time to kill and would be
interested I have my web page up and running, if anyone would like to take a
look.

If you want to see more of a specific item please let me know.

My web page is: http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/

Also, some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized here about
two months ago, well I even have a shot of that installed.  As well as
various powder coated parts and stainless nuts and bolts under the hood.

Thanks,

Dave Best






***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: 31 May 2000 16:22:10 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: head porting advice

Thanks for the head porting advice given by Barry E. King,  I needed this aadvice to resist the temptation to mess up my heads.  Joe Mondello is the head expert on oldsmobile engines and he gave almost the exact same advice for all out performance on my 69 Olds, but he had a few tricks for the shadetree mechanic: teardropping the casting around valve stems, smoothing the radius directly around the valves,raising the roof of the port slightly and never porting the floor except to smooth radius near valves. 

After reading Barry E. King's email I looked at my heads closer today and noticed that none of these basic tips applied.  The stock heads already have excellent shape in all of the areas mentioned.

John K Monnin
91 VR4 (in all 3 stalls of my gargage)
jkmonnin@altavista.com


- ------------------------------
 Original meassage below

From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Porting Heads
 
Definitely have them done by someone who is very knowledgeable/experienced
and uses a flow bench. The intuitive V8 tricks do not work properly on the
stock already awesome flowing heads.  Polishing does zip, BTW, as was proven
to me on two separate flow benches.  It makes sense since you want a certain
amount of turbulence in the intake charge and mirror-polishing the exhaust
side does nothing but lighten the pocket book and make unseen engine parts
look pretty.  Most often seen on Honduh err Honda that are slammed, bassin',
and have nothing except a 6" tip and a bottle of N20 and zero traction.  But
I digress.   What little benfit may be seen on some heads will not make a
statistically significant measurable difference in HP or drivability.
 
The stock heads flow better than most tricked out V8 heads and to squeeze
much more out of them you may (will) sacrifice in other areas. However,
enormous flow can be had from these heads.  Backed up with big blowers and a
few more cubes and you're easily into extreme HP range.  Cams are needed but
so far noone seems to have any that overall actually work better than stock,
and going with higher lift (required for the next stage) is difficult and
very expensive due to the head design.
 
Mine were done by a company in Phoenix that specializes in fast Mustangs.
The guy had never done 6G72 heads but had done a few Hondas.  He was blown
away at how well they performed on the flow bench right off the engine.  He
managed to get a peak increase of 18% peak and 10-15% (min-max) across the
usable cam lift range. Low lift actually suffered a very small amount but
this should not matter too much as the added engine displacement (the block
was bored out and fitted with larger pistons) will more than make up for any
loss of torque.
 
Anyway, you can expect a fairly good boost but it may be expensive depending
upon how far you go with it.  While it is apart, the valves should replaced
as required and balanced, guides inspected and brought back to spec, and a
nice radiused grind on the seats.  The Extrude hone process can be applied
to the intake plenum for an added bit of flow.
 
 Barry
 
 
 


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***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 19:36:12 -0400
From: "WALTER D. BEST" <WDBO39@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Web page up

OK, noted and will change the pic's name.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: <WDB039@erols.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 7:04 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Web page up


> swaybar.jpg (and the link name itself)...
>
> Thats a strut brace.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: WALTER D. BEST [mailto:WDBO39@erols.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2000 3:31 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Web page up
>
>
> I know this isn't real technical and I don't have a problem that needs
> solving but if any of you folks have some time to kill and would be
> interested I have my web page up and running, if anyone would like to take
a
> look.
>
> If you want to see more of a specific item please let me know.
>
> My web page is: http://ifrag.ncsa.uiuc.edu/best/
>
> Also, some of you might remember the sway bar that was advertized here
about
> two months ago, well I even have a shot of that installed.  As well as
> various powder coated parts and stainless nuts and bolts under the hood.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Best
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***


***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 19:37:44 -0400
From: "Michael Booker" <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: head porting advice

What about backcuttingt the valves? Has anybody tried that
?



***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 19:02:26 -0700
From: Anissa.Mohler@netapp.com
Subject: Team3S: FW:  Apex R Motorsports?

Hello all,

Has anyone used Apex R Motorsports? Their web site is http://www.apexvr4.com/ .
They say they are focused on the VR-4/Stealth Market.

I'm looking to purchase a Greddy Profec A and Turbo Timer and so far they have
the best price. I'm curious though, their site lists a Greddy Turbo Timer with
wiring harness ... no other site (including Greddy's) lists a wiring harness
specifically for the VR-4... is this something I should worry about?

So, I need to know, are they fast? and do they deliver what they promise?
and Finally, which wiring harness should I get for my VR-4 if I buy a greddy
turbo timer?

Thanks!

Nissa
95 VR-4
New water pump, new hood latch and new motor mount... what a week!

***Info:  www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm***

------------------------------

Date: 31 May 2000 19:07:14 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: 6-speed transmission in 1st Gen?

Will a 6-speed transmission work on a 91 VR4?
I know that to convert to a 6 speed transmission that I would also have to get a newer tranfer case but I don't know if the shifter will work, or if there is any other incompatabilities?

Anyone done this conversion?

The reason I ask is because there is a new 6-speed for sale on e-bay the bid is currently $800 and the reserve has not been met yet.

John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com
91 VR4


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------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #155
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