team3s
Friday, June 30
2000
Volume 01 : Number
180
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
29 Jun 2000 15:43:32 -0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Source for Lower Ball Joints
Does anyone know of a source for
lower ball joints for a 91 3000GT VR-4, without having to buy the entire control
arm assembly?
I was not very carefull removing my lower ball joint and
the boot is torn up on one side. When I priced a repacement I was quoted
$217 each! I was told that the ball joint was only available as part of
the lower control arm asembly. Has anyone had any sucess buying the ball
joint separately?
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altvista.com91 3000gt
VR-4
_______________________________________________________________________
$1
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AltaVista Rewards: Click here
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Info:
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------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 17:57:43
-0700
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: electrical question
Hi All,
I have a problem with my 1992
VR4. After getting the car back from
the body shop,
the tail lights (rear running lights) and the instrument
lights do not
illuminate. We thought it was a pinched wiring harness,
but they all
check out as good.
Here is the symptom... Put in a good fuse,
turn the lights on, the
lights flicker and the fuse blows right
away.
Have any of you seen this
before?
Thanks,
JAT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:23:20
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Source for Lower Ball Joints
John Monnin wrote
>I was
not very carefull removing my lower ball joint and the boot is torn
>up
on one
side.
Has anyone had any
>sucess buying the ball joint
separately?
>
>John Monnin
Iv'e sucessfully replaced both
my boots. The dealer sells them. Just be
carefull to use even pressure
around the entire "ring" of the boot.
W
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 18:33:53
-0500
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: electrical question
You have a short circuit, I had the same
problem on a car i once
owned........never did find that
short.....
W
At 07:57 PM 06/29/2000 , Dr. John A. Tabler
wrote:
>Hi All,
>Put in a good fuse, turn the lights on,
the
>lights flicker and the fuse blows right away.
>
>Have any
of you seen this before?
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 23:02:24
-0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: electrical question
I'll bet you have a pinched wire
somewhere. When you turn the lights on it
shorts
out.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Dr. John A. Tabler
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2000 7:58 PM
To:
3000GT
Subject: Team3S: electrical question
Hi All,
I have a
problem with my 1992 VR4. After getting the car back
from
the body shop, the tail lights (rear running lights) and the
instrument
lights do not illuminate. We thought it was a pinched wiring
harness,
but they all check out as good.
Here is the
symptom... Put in a good fuse, turn the lights on, the
lights
flicker and the fuse blows right away.
Have any of you seen this
before?
Thanks,
JAT
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 29 Jun 2000 22:05:04
-0700
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Source for Lower Ball Joints
torn boot eh? that's par for
the course.
first off, order yourself that special suspension puller tool
from Miller Special Tools if you're going to be doing much of this work in the
future. Their number is (800) 533-5338 and they do sell to the general
public.
I have the MB991113 (the puller, supersedes MB990635 refenced in
the shop manual) which was $75, and the MB990799 and MB990776-A which are
basically for pounding new boots into place, $15 and $25
respectively.
now, having said that, let me also add that there is
probably no need to replace the ball joints. Just get a set of new
boots and install them. The tricky part for me was getting the amount of
grease in the boot just right so that it wouldn't be too full (and rub against
metal excessively) and
not too loose. Also, don't forget to use a
torque wrench and tighten everything back to spec when you're done.
good
luck,
Dave
John Monnin wrote:
> Does anyone know of
a source for lower ball joints for a 91 3000GT VR-4, without having to buy the
entire control arm assembly?
>
> I was not very carefull removing my
lower ball joint and the boot is torn up on one side. When I priced a
repacement I was quoted $217 each! I was told that the ball joint was only
available as part of the lower control arm asembly. Has anyone had any
sucess buying the ball joint separately?
>
> John Monnin
>
jkmonnin@altvista.com> 91 3000gt
VR-4
>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
>
>
$1 million in prizes! 20 daily instant winners.
> AltaVista Rewards: Click
here to win!
>
http://shopping.altavista.com/e.sdc?e=3>
>
_______________________________________________________________________
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 03:06:35
-0400
From: "Michael" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Brake lines
I'm having a problem with my brakes. I can
fully depress the brake pedal
yet I am not getting the full stopping
power. I've bled the lines to the
best of my knowledge, but haven't
noticed a difference. I've also noticed
that there is a silt like
substance underneath the filter in the brake fluid
reservoir. Almost
looks like silt from the bottom of a pond. Could someone
write up a
quick summary on the correct way to either bleed these brakes or
how to drain
and refill the whole system.
TIA,
Michael
98
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:24:44
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: K&N Filter charger got rid of fuel cut
I received in
installed my K&N filter charger thingy last night from
Brad and took the
car for a drive straight after and the fuel cut
problem I was having with
boost hitting 1bar has completely gone????
Doest his mean the car just
wasn't getting enough air for the boost
level the guy had it turned up
to???
Thanks in advance
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese
Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:25:11
+0100
From: Gordon Tyrrell <
gordon.tyrrell@openet-int.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing boost mod. HELP
PLEASE
I'm installing my EVC IV next but want to remove the mod that has
the
boost increased now but don't know how it's done.
Does anyone have
a picture of what the rear of the engine bay should
look like so that I can
remove any mods that have been done and start
from scratch?
Thanks in
advance
Gordon
Dublin, Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 08:45:21
-0500
From: Matt Jannusch <
MAJ@BigCharts.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing boost m od. HELP
PLEASE
> I'm installing my EVC IV next but want to remove the mod that
has the
> boost increased now but don't know how it's done.
Simple,
replace the line going from the back of the Y-pipe to the "H
connector" with
a line going to the input of the EVC IV "black box", and a
line going from
the output of the box to the "H connector". Unhook the line
that goes
from the "H connector" to the black solenoid on the firewall and
plug it with
something (a screw works good as it can't easily get pushed out
by
pressure). If there is anything at all connected to any of the
lines
other than the "H connector", remove it.
You should have a
straight shot from the Y-pipe to the boost controller,
then a line from boost
controller to a T connector (you can use the H
connector and plug the side
that doesn't go to the wastegates), then
straight lines to each of the
wastegate actuators.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 10:42:54
-0400
From: "wbuckingham" <
wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing boost mod. HELP
PLEASE
Gordon,
If you have the shop manuals - Look in the thicker
one (engine, chassis,
body), in the chapter under emissions control.
That would be Stealth Manual
11-9, 3000GT or CD Manual 15-8.
You will find
an excellent diagram of all the stock vacuum line and
related
components. Just change your hoses to match the
picture.
If you don't have a manual, I can email a copy of the diagram to
you.
My email is
wbuckingham@dmci.netBill
91
RT/TT
#0438
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Gordon Tyrrell
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2000 5:25 AM
To:
gto
Subject: Team3S: Installing EVC IV and want to remove existing
boost
mod. HELP PLEASE
I'm installing my EVC IV next but want
to remove the mod that has the
boost increased now but don't know how it's
done.
Does anyone have a picture of what the rear of the engine bay
should
look like so that I can remove any mods that have been done and
start
from scratch?
Thanks in advance
Gordon
Dublin,
Ireland
1993 Japanese Import VR4
http://fly.to/mr2.ie***
Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 12:07:29
EDT
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Spark Plugs
In a message dated 6/30/2000 5:28:55 AM Eastern
Daylight Time, LizVong21
writes:
> how do i get back on the
mailing list
Go to the Team3S Home page at:
http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/index.htmlFrom
there click on "CLICK here to read our Rules..." and after you have
reviewed
the rules, click one one of the links below based on which version
of the
list you want to recieve.
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In
United States]
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 30 Jun 2000 11:46:27
-0700
From: David Margrave <
davidma@eskimo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000 GTO stereo
hmm, not sure about the UK, but here the basic
unit of car stereo volume is called the "DIN". The 3000gt/stealth have a
double-DIN slot for the stereo. so you could either
put in two pieces
(head unit and equalizer, etc.) or do what i did and just put in a head unit,
and a plastic "pocket" for holding coins, sunglasses, etc in the lower
DIN
slot. Just go to any car stereo installation place and ask for a
pocket. You won't get one especially for the stealth (i think mine is for
a honda) but a litle
hacksawing and ingenuity with bushings, etc. will get it
installed.
or if you prefer, you just just get a big chunk of ABS plastic
to block off the 2nd DIN slot. I find the pocket to be handy
though.
btw, your newly-turned rotors will be warped again in 2000-3000
miles (in my experience)!
Martin wrote:
> Hi all
> Sorry
if this subject has been covered already but I'm new.
> I have a 92 GTO
and it has the stock stereo in at the moment, I would like to replace it with a
head unit and CD changer, but not sure of the best location for the
changer.
> But the main problem is that the original stereo is about 4/5
inches square and would leave a huge hole when removed.
> Is there some
kind of template that I can obtain that will solve the problem and is the wiring
a problem?
> I know I will lose the steering wheel controls but thats not
important.
> Any help is appreciated.
> Regards
>
Martin
> BTW I had my rotors turned my Mitsubishi yesterday and new pads
put in for the usual problem of juddering on braking and man what a
difference........totally stable now.
> So if anyone out there has a
similar problem....get them rotors turned. just my pennies worth.
>
Regards
> Martin Berkley
> Technical Support Specialist
> Star
Internet
>
support@star.co.uk>
>
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------------------------------
End
of team3s V1 #180
*********************