team3s
Thursday, February 8
2001 Volume 01 :
Number
401
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 7 Feb 2001 12:33:37 -0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60K parts?
Replacing the oil cap is reasonable - the seals on
those a notorious for
leaking vapors when they age.
My memory is bad
on the PCV valve - I think I remember replacing one. It's
just a check
valve that is important for recirculating oil vapors to be
burned.
Often you can just clean one with solvent. They are both pretty
cheap
and easy to swap out. No need to pay the dealer to do
either.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Judson Smith [
SMTP:jsmith@fmbs.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 12:21 PM
> To: Ken Middaugh;
AABOMB1@aol.com> Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
starnet
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K parts?
>
> I would also
replace the alternator belt.
> I was told that I should also replace my
oil cap and PCV valve? Anyone
> else
> heard of this? The dealer
said it was "clogged".
>
> Judson Smith 1995 3000GT
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>
To: <
AABOMB1@aol.com>
> Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>;
starnet <
Stealth@StarNet.net>
> Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:11 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K
parts?
>
>
> >
> > > Hello list members, I
just have a quick question about the parts I
> need
> for
>
> > the 60K tune-up. Below, I will list the parts I plan on buying for
the
> 60K
> > > tune up and I would appreciate it if you could
tell me whether I've
> listed
> > > any extra parts or if I
have left off something:
> > >
> > > Parts: Timing Belt,
AC Belt, Power Steering Belt, Thermostat,
> Waterpump,
> > >
Tensioner, End Yoke Holder, and Tensioner pully socket (I changed the
>
plugs
> > > and fuel filter about 10K miles ago, so I won't order
them)
> >
> > Also consider replacing the camshaft seals, the
crankshaft seals, and
> all
> > pulleys (with bearings).
>
>
> > --
> > If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
> >
> > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> > General
Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
> >
> > ***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
> >
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 13:51:24
-0500
From: Steve Petry <
sjpsys@rit.edu>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60K
parts?
Yes the PCV valve should be replaced every 10K, it is cheap maybe
around $2
to $3 dollars. It is very easy to replace it, and requires
only a crescent
wrench.
- -Steve
1991 3000GT VR4
1991
Porsche 944S2
1984 Porsche 944
- -----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Judson Smith
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:21 PM
To: Ken
Middaugh;
AABOMB1@aol.comCc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st;
starnet
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K parts?
I would also replace the
alternator belt.
I was told that I should also replace my oil cap and PCV
valve? Anyone else
heard of this? The dealer said it was
"clogged".
Judson Smith 1995 3000GT
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
<
AABOMB1@aol.com>
Cc: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; starnet
<
Stealth@StarNet.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K
parts?
>
> > Hello list members, I just have a quick
question about the parts I need
for
> > the 60K tune-up. Below, I
will list the parts I plan on buying for the
60K
> > tune up and I
would appreciate it if you could tell me whether I've
listed
> > any
extra parts or if I have left off something:
> >
> > Parts:
Timing Belt, AC Belt, Power Steering Belt, Thermostat, Waterpump,
> >
Tensioner, End Yoke Holder, and Tensioner pully socket (I changed
the
plugs
> > and fuel filter about 10K miles ago, so I won't order
them)
>
> Also consider replacing the camshaft seals, the crankshaft
seals, and all
> pulleys (with bearings).
>
> --
> If
you lived in your car, you'd be home by now.
>
> Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:17:32
-0500
From: "Judson Smith" <
jsmith@fmbs.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
60K parts?
As a side note, I would like to pass on that some dealers may
say that they
will install parts you got from a discount dealer, but a lot of
times they
might not cover their work if something goes wrong afterwards. I
would check
with the dealer on this Darren. ---- Jud
- -----
Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
Schilberg, Darren <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Cc:
<
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 1:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K
parts?
>
> > Does anyone know if the Mitsu Dealer has to
order the parts if they are
> > going to do the
service?
>
> Not really, but you should check with the local dealer
that will do the
service
> first. I bought my parts from one of
the lists' discount dealers. I then
had a
> local Mitsu dealer
perform the service.
>
> --
> If you lived in your car, you'd
be home by now.
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General
Atomics - Fusion Group, San Diego, CA
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 11:33:33
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Maybe not clutch?
>> This is a distinct
possibility.
>> 265/35/18 has diameter of 25.24" and turns 798.9 revs
per mile
>> 245/40/18 has diameter of 25.72" and turns 784.2 revs per
mile
>> This difference in diameter could cause the center
differential/VC to wear
>> prematurely. There should be a
procedure in the manual to check the
>> center diff.
> Wow,
Ken, I wouldn't have believed it would make such a difference! The
>
height difference is still closer to .4 inches than .75 inches and it's
only
> 14.7 revolutions different spread over a MILE. Does running
lower pressure
> in the rear tires (28 psi) than the fronts (32) aggravate
the difference? I
> mean, the tire's not a perfect circle.
I
really don't know the actual percentage of difference that seperates
the
acceptable from unacceptable (I guess I should have said so in my orignal
reply
;)). However I'd rather err on the safe side so I personally
wouldn't use
different diameter tires on a VR4/TT. In this example, the
.48 inch difference
equates to about a 2% difference. This 2%
difference may very well be
acceptable (does anybody know?), but I wouldn't
want to be the guinea pig.
Surely different diameters due to tire pressures
are within the acceptable range
though since we've logged millions of miles
that way.
- -Ken
- --
If you lived in your car, you'd be home by
now.
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics - Fusion Group, San
Diego, CA
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 14:33:31
-0500
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <
DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 60K parts?
Thanks. The non-Mitsu dealer where I bought
my car really really knows
their stuff and did a bang-up job on replacing the
rebuilt tranny and new
clutch and found a few things along the way that also
needed replaced (slave
cylinder, etc.). They are really
good.
However, they said that they have to buy the parts they put
in. (Probably
the only way they make money off me.) Also, like
you said, they warranty
the parts since they buy them. This is what
almost got me into trouble when
I wanted to buy a flywheel from Jack T and
have it put in since they were
not as confident as I was. Sigh.
It would have been nice to spin up to
speed faster.
I also got a
"cover all" warranty from this place so I don't mind taking
things there
since the warranty now covers everything under the sun except
for gas and the
clutch (well -- almost).
- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com3Si
#577
1995 Black VR-4
http://www.ec3s.org/images/members/flash001full.jpg-
-----Original Message-----
From: Judson Smith [
mailto:jsmith@fmbs.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
February 07, 2001 14:18
To: Ken Middaugh; Schilberg, Darren
Cc:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Re: Team3S: 60K parts?
As a side note, I would like to pass on that some
dealers may say that they
will install parts you got from a discount dealer,
but a lot of times they
might not cover their work if something goes wrong
afterwards. I would check
with the dealer on this Darren. ----
Jud
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 15:44:25
-0500
From: John Raicu <
aa2345@wayne.edu>
Subject: Team3S: RE:
Maybe not clutch?
Hello all,
In regards to this phenomenon, I
believe it is a toast clutch, since my
car is doing the identical same
thing. I have a 94 TT with stock tires
and Nitto 555 17"X45X245.
I think it only does it in this range of RPM
because the engine must be close
to the optimum HP. Also, if it is not
completely gone, it will only
slip at the beginning since the boost
spike, and will settle down when boost
drops. One test that I have done
was: running at 15 PSI on my Apexi
boost controller, it does it 75% of
the time. Running with my boost
off, which means about 7 PSI, it never
does it, which concludes that the
clutch cannot hold the power, and thus
slips. What do some of the
experts think of this theory, since I can
barely say I am mechanically
inclined, or even know how half the things
work in the car.
John
Raicu
94 Yellow TT
>> The revving I am getting without
acceleration is happening between
4300rpm
>> and 4800rpm. At
4800rpm, everything seems to lock up and there isn't
any
>>
"slippage' from there on. Could this be symptomatic of a problem
with
the
>> viscous coupling instead of a clutch
issue?
>>
>> I've talked to quite a few folks who agree that
if it was the clutch,
there
>> wouldn't be any hook-up after that
500rpm increase.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 15:27:46
-0800
From: "Chris Maxwell" <
shmacker@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Too much oil = blue smoke?
I recently changed my oil and I remember
adding 5qts instead of 4.5. Well,
my friend noticed a little blue smoke
out my exhaust when I floored it in
the high revs. It was not apparent
with lower revs regardless of load. The
smoke was constant until I let
off the gas. So, is it possible that the
extra 1/2 - 3/4 qt oil or so
that I added could cause this smoke and if so,
is the damage permanent or can
I just fix it with another oil change?
Thanks,
Chris
92 R/T
TT
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 19:16:59
-0000
From: "Sam Shelat" <
sshelat@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: What is stock boost for a 95 VR-4?
Mines a 95 VR-4 also and it
also peaks out above 12.5 at around 14.7-15.2
depending what gear and how
hard I push on the throttle when I disconnect
the AVCr solenoid and reconnect
the stock one. I think its normal. It
doesn't sustain that
pressure and is also the reason I do not worry about
occasional overboosts to
1.1# kg/cm2 when I am set at 1kg/cm2 on my AVCR. I
have put about
35,000 miles on the car even overboosting to 1.2# on many
occasions in street
races with pump gas and no noticeable problems have
arisen. However, as
Roger pointed out, our engines are pretty durable and
one can drive with a
cracked piston for awhile w/o knowing anything.
Sam
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Michael Bulaon <
profilevr4@3000gtvr4.net>
To:
Team 3s <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Date:
Wednesday, February 07, 2001 4:59 AM
Subject: Team3S: What is stock boost for
a 95 VR-4?
>I have 95 VR-4 and my Apex'i boost guage and Blitz
turbo timer are telling
>me that I'm peaking at 1.00 bar of boost which I
believe is about 14.5 psi.
>
>Now my question is, is this the
correct boost pressure for a stock 95 VR-4?
>I'm inclined to think that it
isn't and if not, then what is? Am I in
danger
>of running this high?
Lastly what could be causing my overboost?
>
>Actually my car is
mostly stock with the exception of a K&N.
>
>Thanks in
advance.....
>
>
>Michael
Bulaon
>
>
>*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 19:59:04
-0500
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
CARFAX investigation: need totaled VIN's
Hello everyone,
In my
quest to get inducted into the BBB automatically, I have set out
on another
mission to see the real story behind Carfax reports and the
like.
Personally, my beautiful '91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT (Snoopy,
as many know
her) was totalled back in Sept of last year. When I went
to purchase
another, I ran Snoopy's VIN through 2 different companies, 2
different times
(3 months apart). Do you think I came up with any
problems on her
title?? NOPE!
So, I have the unlimited Carfax subscription, and want to
use it for my
investigations. Anyone willing, please send me the VIN
number of your
TOTALLED or other very seriously problem vehicles (3/S or
not), and a
brief explaination of what the problem is.
Thank
you!
Ken Stanton
2 - '91 Pearl White RT/TT's
Organizer - 3SI Rochester
(NY)
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:45:30
EST
From:
AABOMB1@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: Coolant Change
Hello list members. I have another question; this
time concerning a coolant
change:
In the service manual, it says to
drain the coolant out of the engine by
loosening the engine drain plugs. But
it says to coat the drain plugs with
"3M Nut Locking Part No 4171 or
equivalent." I don't know where I could find
this stuff -- is it available
at the dealer? If not, where could I buy this?
Thanks
P.S. Though
I couldn't reply to everyone indiviually, I want to thank all the
people who
replied to my previous post about the 60K tune-up; all of your
advice really
helps. Thanks!
'94 3000GT (NA DOHC)
AA
-
-------------------
E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.comFax: (707) 982-8817 [In The
United States]
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 20:12:29
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coolant Change
> In the service manual, it says to drain
the coolant out
> of the engine by loosening the engine drain plugs.
But
> it says to coat the drain plugs with "3M Nut Locking
> Part No
4171 or equivalent." I don't know where I could
> find this stuff -- is it
available at the dealer? If
> not, where could I buy this?
You can
use Loctite. I think the 4171 is equivalent to Blue Loctite, but
my
toolbox isn't here to check it for sure. Any auto parts store will
have it,
as well as most hardware/home stores. On the package there's
an equivalency
chart. It'll be either Blue or Red that matches
4171.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 2001 21:19:33
EST
From:
FRAGU172@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: HELP. unexplainable check engine light
HELP! my check engine
light came on today.. and i dont know why.. everything
ran perfectly.. i
drove it for about a half an hr, couldnt have felt better.
i tried
everything, turning the car on and off again, checkin most sensors
and
things and it still came on after about 4 minutes of driving. everytime.
the ONE thing i can think of is when i started the car today the first
time..
it started and made a strange clicking sound from the engine.. not
the
typical lifter sound and this sound goes away after the car is started,
its
like 3 or 4 short muffeled clacks., and it dosent make the noise when im
on
the throttle at all, just when i start it. but when i got the car
nice and
warmed up and stopped and restarted it again, the sound did not
return..
also i have installed a hard pipe inplace of the upper intake
hose. would a
bad seal make the engine light come on? PLEASE PLEASE
let me know!
- -§teven J 93 3kgt N/A
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 21:47:07
-0500
From: "Michael D. Crose" <
ncsu4me@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Coolant Change
From my understanding you don't have to remove the
drain plug from the
engine block if you use distilled water and pour it into
the hose end that
goes to the top of the radiator. This will both
flush the coolant out of
the engine and put most if not all the water that
needs to go into the
engine in it so that you only need to add
coolant.
Michael
_________________________________________________________________
Get
your FREE download of MSN Explorer at
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Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 07 Feb 2001 23:49:03
-0500
From: pladnier <
pladnier@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 rear noise.
I have a 96 VR4 and am running 245X40X18
Sumitomos with under 8K on
them. I have recently noticed an increase in
what I thought was road
noise. I had the four wheel allignment checked
and the mechanic told me
that the rear toe in couldn't be adjusted anymore to
spec. there is
slight fethering on the edgse of the right rear tire He
said I needed
to replace the springs and struts to be able to adjust further,
or
perhaps replace bushings in the adjuster arms. Are there bushing
that
can be replaced? I still don't know if the noise is wheel
noise,
transfer case or drive shaft related. Do any of you 4WDers
have
experience with the alignment or noise from the drive system that I
can
use as a starting point to solve this problem? The noise is a dull
roar
that can be heard when slowing down and comming to a stop. It does
not
change with braking.
thanks for your help
rtmanfla, purple,
96VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 00:47:40
-0500
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
The dealer can't track down an
oil leak in my car, going on 4 months now.
So far they've resealed the oil
pan, and recently replaced it. They've also
changed the PCV
valve. I finally got under it and took at look at it
myself, and these
are my observations.
The leak is originating somewhere above the
starter.
The seal of the new oil pan is not leaking from what I can see under
the
car.
I'm seeing oil on the driver side of the intake hose for the
front turbo and
also where it has dripped off the bottom of the same intake
hose.
It leaks the most when cruising at highway speeds. (Approx 80-90
mph in 6th
gear)
Any ideas where the oil can be coming from? I'm
getting desperate.
Michael
98 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 00:24:27
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
> Any ideas where the oil
can be coming from? I'm
> getting desperate.
Hmmm...
Shouldn't really be that much of a mystery. You start at the
bottom and
examine your way up until there's no more oil track. Probable
culprits
would be the valve cover gasket and/or the turbo oil feed/return
lines.
Valve cover gasket should be easy to check, the turbo lines require
taking
off the heat shields to inspect well. Getting the heat shields
off
isn't really that bad a chore, you just need to be patient with the
bolts,
use lots of WD-40, and then go insane on the heat shield to get it
out.
Got pictures of the oiled areas?
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 02:01:56
-0500
From: Bill Wagner <
wagner@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: CARFAX investigation: need totaled VIN's
Ken:
It depends
on what happened to your car after it was totalled. If it was
sold to a junk
yard and parted out, I doubt anything will ever show up
on it in a CarFax
report. If on the other hand, a year or so from now it
shows up as a clean
car and no salvage title is issued, then you've got
a case. In the latter
case it means the title was "washed". This is
usually done by rebuilding the
car in one state and then transferring it
to another state where they don't
check or bother identifying the car as
having a salvage title, and then often
move it to another state to get
what appears to be a truly "clean" title put
on the car. In many states,
a junkyard won't bother registering the title
because it costs money and
they have no intention of rebuilding it. In many
states a totalled car
is seen as raw materials, not a vehichle. A salvage
title only gets
issued if someone buys the car from an insurance company with
the intent
of rebuilding it.
How a car gets titled varies from state
to state. In many states, I
believe you only have to title a car if you
intend to drive it. You need
proof of either ownership by yourself or a
lending agency in order to
register the car for transportation
use.
For what it's worth, CarFax isn't that fast, and they don't
record
everything, and they do let some mistakes get by. When I got my
'96
300ZX two years ago I did a CarFax on it and the odometer reading as
it
was transferred from West Virginia to Virginia (over a period of about
3
weeks) showed a discrepancy of something like 18 miles. Who's going
to
roll back an odometer 18 miles? It was obviously a clerical
error.
Good Luck,
Bill Wagner
Ken Stanton
wrote:
>
> Hello everyone,
>
> In my quest to get
inducted into the BBB automatically, I have set out
> on another mission
to see the real story behind Carfax reports and the
> like.
Personally, my beautiful '91 Pearl White Stealth RT/TT (Snoopy,
> as many
know her) was totalled back in Sept of last year. When I went
> to
purchase another, I ran Snoopy's VIN through 2 different companies, 2
>
different times (3 months apart). Do you think I came up with any
>
problems on her title?? NOPE!
>
> So, I have the unlimited Carfax
subscription, and want to use it for my
> investigations. Anyone
willing, please send me the VIN number of your
> TOTALLED or other very
seriously problem vehicles (3/S or not), and a
> brief explaination of
what the problem is.
>
> Thank you!
> Ken Stanton
> 2 -
'91 Pearl White RT/TT's
> Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com>
>
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 08:13:32
-0600
From: "Jim" <
devlin@jobe.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Help! Mysterious oil leak.
Im surprised that the dealer could not
locate your oil leak. There is a type
of dye that is added to the oil, then
the car is either run, or in your
case, driven on a short trip. When the car
is brought back to the shop, it
is then put on a lift where the mechanic will
use a ultraviolet light. When
the light is turned on, the dye that was added
to the oil will glow. The
mechanic will then trace the oil back to where the
leak starts from. This is
also used to find a stubborn coolant leak. Ask
around various garages that
are capable of doing this procedure.
Jim
from Missouri
95-3000GT-SL
PS> We are the proud bunch of
owners, of one of the most beautiful cars ever
built. I wave to everyone
driving a GT or Stealth. I rarely ever receive a
wave back. When I drove my
vette, we all shared a common interest and wave
to each other. Why can't
owners of our cars do the same, after all, we are
owners of a very unique
automobile. I enjoy the fact that no matter where I
go, I receive stares and
people asking what kind of car I drive. It makes me
feel privileged to be a
member of 3SI. These are just my thoughts.
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 08:33:55
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
Matt,
I'm with
you: sounds like the front turbo oil feed/return lines.
Wonder if
anyone disconnected these and reconnected without replacing the
copper/brass
washers? Those are specified as non reusable parts in the
service
manual. I guess they can vibrate loose, too, if not torqued
to
spec.
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Jannusch, Matt [
SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 12:24 AM
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>
> > Any
ideas where the oil can be coming from? I'm
> > getting
desperate.
>
> Hmmm... Shouldn't really be that much of a
mystery. You start at the
> bottom and examine your way up until
there's no more oil track. Probable
> culprits would be the valve
cover gasket and/or the turbo oil feed/return
> lines. Valve cover
gasket should be easy to check, the turbo lines
> require
> taking
off the heat shields to inspect well. Getting the heat shields off
>
isn't really that bad a chore, you just need to be patient with the
bolts,
> use lots of WD-40, and then go insane on the heat shield to get
it out.
>
> Got pictures of the oiled areas?
>
>
-Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 09:30:10
-0600
From: "Greg S." <
wizards@mhtc.net>
Subject: 3M
Products (WAS Re: Team3S: Coolant Change)
Hi all ...
Here
you are .... this is an 800 number for 3M's "Consumer Where To buy"
Service.
They will give you a list of locations/sources where you can buy any
3M product.
Good Luck.
1-800-854-4266
Greg
"Greg S."
wrote:
> I'll look it up for you tomorrow at work .... I work for
3M.
>
> Greg
>
>
AABOMB1@aol.com wrote:
>
> >
Hello list members. I have another question; this time concerning a
coolant
> > change:
> >
> > In the service manual, it
says to drain the coolant out of the engine by
> > loosening the engine
drain plugs. But it says to coat the drain plugs with
> > "3M Nut
Locking Part No 4171 or equivalent." I don't know where I could find
>
> this stuff -- is it available at the dealer? If not, where could I buy
this?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > P.S. Though I
couldn't reply to everyone indiviually, I want to thank all the
> >
people who replied to my previous post about the 60K tune-up; all of
your
> > advice really helps. Thanks!
> >
> > '94
3000GT (NA DOHC)
> > AA
> >
> >
-------------------
> > E-mail:
aabomb@thepentagon.com <or>
aabomb1@aol.com> > Fax: (707)
982-8817 [In The United States]
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:32:28
-0700
From: "Ken Wheeler" <
kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
One thing to check too is
the oil cap. Those things tend to leak and it's
just a few bucks to
fix. But if the dealer couldn't find the source of the
leak, that's
probably not it. Just an idea though.
Ken W.
'92 RT/TT
'67
Mustang
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Michael Dorsey
Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2001 10:48 PM
To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
The dealer can't track down an oil
leak in my car, going on 4 months now.
So far they've resealed the oil pan,
and recently replaced it. They've also
changed the PCV valve. I
finally got under it and took at look at it
myself, and these are my
observations.
The leak is originating somewhere above the starter.
The
seal of the new oil pan is not leaking from what I can see under
the
car.
I'm seeing oil on the driver side of the intake hose for the
front turbo and
also where it has dripped off the bottom of the same intake
hose.
It leaks the most when cruising at highway speeds. (Approx 80-90
mph in 6th
gear)
Any ideas where the oil can be coming from? I'm
getting desperate.
Michael
98 VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:53:45
-0500
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
They've put the dye in it
twice now. I talked to them again today, and they
say they're going to
tear it apart and do a thorough investigation now.
It's still under warranty,
which is why I've been reluctant to mess with it.
I'll probably pull the car
apart myself this weekend and see if I can find
it though. How hard
could it be?!?!
Michael
98 VR4
> -----Original
Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Jim
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 9:14
> To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>
>
> Im
surprised that the dealer could not locate your oil leak.
> There is a
type
> of dye that is added to the oil, then the car is either
run,
> or in your
> case, driven on a short trip. When the car is
brought back to
> the shop, it
> is then put on a lift where the
mechanic will use a
> ultraviolet light. When
> the light is turned
on, the dye that was added to the oil
> will glow. The
> mechanic
will then trace the oil back to where the leak
> starts from. This
is
> also used to find a stubborn coolant leak. Ask around various
>
garages that
> are capable of doing this procedure.
>
> Jim
from Missouri
>
> 95-3000GT-SL
>
> PS> We are the
proud bunch of owners, of one of the most
> beautiful cars ever
>
built. I wave to everyone driving a GT or Stealth. I rarely
> ever receive
a
> wave back. When I drove my vette, we all shared a common
>
interest and wave
> to each other. Why can't owners of our cars do the
same,
> after all, we are
> owners of a very unique automobile. I
enjoy the fact that no
> matter where I
> go, I receive stares and
people asking what kind of car I
> drive. It makes me
> feel
privileged to be a member of 3SI. These are just my
thoughts.
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:56:14
-0500
From: "Michael Dorsey" <
mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
Based on what I've seen,
that appears to be the right area. Is this
something I can check with a
mirror or do I need to pulling it apart?
Michael
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
[
mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On
Behalf Of Willis, Charles E.
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001
9:34
> To: 'Jannusch, Matt';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>
>
>
Matt,
>
> I'm with you: sounds like the front turbo oil
feed/return lines.
>
> Wonder if anyone disconnected these and
reconnected without
> replacing the
> copper/brass washers?
Those are specified as non reusable
> parts in the
> service
manual. I guess they can vibrate loose, too, if not
> torqued
to
> spec.
>
> Chuck
>
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Jannusch, Matt [
SMTP:mjannusch@marketwatch.com]
>
> Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 12:24 AM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
> >
> >
> Any ideas where the oil can be coming from? I'm
> > >
getting desperate.
> >
> > Hmmm... Shouldn't really be
that much of a mystery. You
> start at the
> > bottom and
examine your way up until there's no more oil
> track.
Probable
> > culprits would be the valve cover gasket and/or the
turbo
> oil feed/return
> > lines. Valve cover gasket
should be easy to check, the turbo lines
> > require
> >
taking off the heat shields to inspect well. Getting the
> heat
shields off
> > isn't really that bad a chore, you just need to be
patient
> with the bolts,
> > use lots of WD-40, and then go
insane on the heat shield to
> get it out.
> >
> > Got
pictures of the oiled areas?
> >
> > -Matt
> > '95
3000GT Spyder VR4
> >
> > *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 10:57:47
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
> They've put the dye in
it twice now.
Could also be tranny fluid. My car spits a little out
of the top breather
on the tranny which runs down the tranny and pretty much
works its way all
over the oilpan and bottom of the tranny so you can't
really tell well where
its coming from.
Could throw a little dye in
there too.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 12:01:37
EST
From:
FRAGU172@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: (no subject)
curt the CE light doesnt come on right away. it
takes about 4 minutes... and
theres still the mysterious clicking happening
only when i turn the car on..
it sounds like its coming from the engine bay
right infront of me.. 5 or 6
louder clicks. and then nothing.. even on
throttle nothing.. i dont get it.
help my poor rear end
- -Steven J 93
3kgt
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:08:49
-0600
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
> works its way all over the
oilpan and bottom of the tranny so you
> can't really tell well where its
coming from.
You know, I've been having a small amount of gear oil
collecting on
the side of the transaxle for a while now. This is unrelated
to the
seal which I replaced (it was leaking a ton of fluid from the seal
and
it would drip-drip-drip when I would park it). Is this breather on the
front of the transaxle, sort of a black plug looking thing (not the wire
harness and plug). I wondered what that was. Is it normal for oil
to
sling out of it?
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 13:11:45
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
Team3S: Ball Joints in Front Axle
Hi folks:
I need to replace the Ball
Joints in the Front Axle.
The Mitsu. dealer told me I have to replace the
whole "plate" because it is
a one piece part.
Question: If there is any
replacement for these Ball Joints?
Thanks for your
input.
Victor
Black 3K GT, '93, PR
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 11:29:24
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>
>Could also be
tranny fluid. My car spits a little out of the top breather
>on the
tranny which runs down the tranny and pretty much works its way all
>over
the oilpan and bottom of the tranny so you can't really tell well
where
>its coming from.
A little? Sheesh. Mine spews. It's a
brand new tranny, and it started
spewing within six months. I took it back
for the official Mitsu fix, which
meant they did something to the top
breather. That stopped it for a month
or so, and then it started again. They
say it just blows out fluid when I
push the car hard, they did the official
Mitsu repair, and there is no
further repair possible. I either have to live
with it or drive slower.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:34:00
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
> A little? Sheesh.
Mine spews.
> ... they did the official Mitsu repair, and there is
no
> further repair possible. I either have to live with it or
>
drive slower.
Does anyone know what that repair is? Just plug the
hole with a piece of
rubber or something (which sounds like a typical Mitsu
fix), or is there a
"real" fix to try? New design breather plug?
Sure would be nice if I could
stem the flow a bit. I don't drive that
fast most of the time, but it still
leaks enough to be annoying.
-
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:44:24
-0800
From: "Watkins, Jim" <
jim.watkins@terayon.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>
>Could also be
tranny fluid. My car spits a little out of the top breather
>on the
tranny which runs down the tranny and pretty much works its way all
>over
the oilpan and bottom of the tranny so you can't really tell
well
where
>its coming from.
>A little? Sheesh. Mine
spews. It's a brand new tranny, and it started
>spewing within six months.
I took it back for the official Mitsu fix, which
>meant they did something
to the top breather. That stopped it for a month
>or so, and then it
started again. They say it just blows out fluid when I
>push the car hard,
they did the official Mitsu repair, and there is no
>further repair
possible. I either have to live with it or drive slower.
Any possibility
the tranny fluid level is just a little too high? Mine used
to drip a
little but seems to have stopped.
Jim/95VR4 Spyder
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 11:37:54
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>> ... they did the
official Mitsu repair, and there is no
>> further repair possible. I
either have to live with it or
>> drive slower.
>
>Does
anyone know what that repair is? Just plug the hole with a piece
of
>rubber or something (which sounds like a typical Mitsu fix), or is
there a
>"real" fix to try? New design breather plug? Sure
would be nice if I could
>stem the flow a bit. I don't drive that
fast most of the time, but it still
>leaks enough to be
annoying.
>
I don't know what the repair actually is, but they had to
almost remove the
tranny to get to it. Took them a full day to repair it.
Labor was like
$400, covered by warranty (cost me
$100)
Rich
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 11:47:10
-0600
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <
mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
> Any possibility the
tranny fluid level is just a little too
> high? Mine used to drip a
little but seems to have stopped.
Enough dripped out so now it is
low. ;-) Kinda like a Harley - as long as
it keeps spewing oil
you know you still have some. :-)
I've got the level set correctly
and it leaks. I've kind of gotten used to
it, but if there's a way to
stop it I would gladly do that. Maybe pull out
the breather, attach a
rubber tube somehow and snake it up the firewall.
Any that splashes out of
the tranny should find its way back into the tranny
via gravity. I
dunno... It wasn't a serious enough problem for me since
I'd just top
it off every 6 months or so.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 18:56:05
+0100
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PocketLOGGER for -93 cars !!!!
Just fantastic !
This
is a 100% clone of the TMO Datalogger ported to the PALM OS !! Yes, we
can
now use our PALM to log the car... I'm really fascinated. The Demo
looks
good and for sure it works as the TMO Logger does.
Have a look at it and
download the demo :
http://www.pocketlogger.com/...
a must have for tuners o n1st gen cars and it is on a moderate price
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 09:58:11
-0800
From: "Maupin, Justin" <
Justin.Maupin@kla-tencor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spoiler Retrofit
Is it possible to retrofit a GT Spoiler onto a
Stealth... I always liked the
1st gen. GT spoilers...
Justin
Maupin
92 TT
NW Chapter
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 19:06:50
+0100
From: "Jim Matthews" <
jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: PocketLOGGER for -93 cars !!!!
Also intriguing is this entry in
their FAQ:
Q: What cars does PocketLOGGER work with?
A: PocketLOGGER
is specifically designed for 1990 to 1994 Mitsubishis. It
does NOT support
1995+ cars. We are working on a version to support these
newer
cars.
I assume that it won't work with my 1994 TT, but is there hope
that
subsequent versions will?
Very cool.
- - --
Jim
Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R v.1
(1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Super Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Optima Red Top 830 Battery
Redline synth
fluids (trans= MT-90, xfer & diff= SPHvy)
Porterfield cryo-treated
rotors, R4S pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 367 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 12:13:03
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ball Joints in Front Axle
VR4 or other?
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Berrios, Victor L [
SMTP:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 12:12 PM
> To:
'TEAM3S@STHEALTH-3000GT.ST'>
Subject: Team3S: Ball Joints in Front Axle
>
> Hi folks:
> I
need to replace the Ball Joints in the Front Axle.
> The Mitsu. dealer
told me I have to replace the whole "plate" because it
> is
> a one
piece part.
> Question: If there is any replacement for these Ball
Joints?
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> Victor
>
Black 3K GT, '93, PR
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 12:15:15
-0600
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
Rich,
It could be
overfilled with fluid. All tranny's are vented to the outside,
that's
why SCCA requires you to attach a gizmo to sop up all that stuff so
it don't
get on the track!
Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Merritt [
SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 11:29 AM
> To: Jannusch, Matt;
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Help! Mysterious oil leak.
>
>
>
> >Could also be tranny fluid. My car spits a little out of
the top
> breather
> >on the tranny which runs down the tranny
and pretty much works its way
> all
> >over the oilpan and bottom
of the tranny so you can't really tell well
> where
> >its coming
from.
>
> A little? Sheesh. Mine spews. It's a brand new
tranny, and it started
> spewing within six months. I took it back for the
official Mitsu fix,
> which
> meant they did something to the top
breather. That stopped it for a month
> or so, and then it started again.
They say it just blows out fluid when I
> push the car hard, they did the
official Mitsu repair, and there is no
> further repair possible. I either
have to live with it or drive slower.
>
> Rich/old poop/94
VR4
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 8 Feb 2001 14:08:48
-0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L" <
VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ball Joints in Front Axle
My one is 3000GT Base model.
Thanks.
VR4 or other?
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: Berrios, Victor L [
SMTP:VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil]
>
Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2001 12:12 PM
> To:
'TEAM3S@STHEALTH-3000GT.ST'>
Subject: Team3S: Ball Joints in Front Axle
>
> Hi folks:
> I
need to replace the Ball Joints in the Front Axle.
> The Mitsu. dealer
told me I have to replace the whole "plate" because it
> is
> a one
piece part.
> Question: If there is any replacement for these Ball
Joints?
>
> Thanks for your input.
>
> Victor
>
Black 3K GT, '93, PR
>
>
> *** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 08 Feb 2001 12:40:06
-0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Results of Talon v VR4
After beating the subject to death on this
forum, insulting all the Sunday
afternoon drivers on the open track forum,
and gleaning tons of good tech
information from Talon/Eclipse experts in both
racing and rallying, here
are the results of my question about Talons v VR4s,
and which one becomes
the race car:
1. I will continue to use
the 3000GT VR4 as my open track road-racing car
for the forseeable future.
The simple truth is that I like having the
fastest car in my run group. As I
move up in run groups to where the really
fast boys play, I have a better
chance of keeping up by running a modded
VR4 than I would with a fire
breathing Talon. There is more potential for
big horsepower in the VR4.
2. I will prepare the 92 Eagle Talon TSi for production GT class
rallying,
and compete in SCCA's club rally part of PRO rallying. This will
require a
roll cage and some minor performance mods, but these should not be
terribly
expensive. If the effort proves to be a disaster because I can't cut
it any
more on gravel, I should be able to sell it and recover the
investment
easily. Talons are becoming "the car to have" in PRO rallying, so
lots of
help and parts are available.
This approach, which should
carry me through 2002, offers the best options.
Especially because the Talon
is so versatile:
It can be taken up to 450 hp
It can be a ferocious open
track car (my buddy Scott runs an AWD Eclipse in
open tracking, he turns
mid-12s in the 1/4, and he whups up on modded M3s
just fine)
It can do
double duty (rallying and road racing) if need be (a tarmac rally
setup goes
both ways).
If I discover I am still pretty good at PRO rallying (I was,
25 years ago),
I'll invest money in more mods and go run it in the Open
class. In that
case, the VR4 will still be relatively stock, and will remain
a street car.
Thanks to all who contributed to the discussion.
I
have come to the conclusion that Mitsubishi builds damn fine cars, no
matter
what you want to do with them..
Rich
94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 AWD
TT
92 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
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