Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth    Friday, August 17 2001    Volume 01 : Number 581




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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 01:06:25 EDT
From: NassiriC@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Q & A on OBD II scan tools and DSBC accuracy

Subject #1 - OBD II Scan Tools

I'd like to hear from anybody that had installed and is using an ODB II scan
tool on their 96+ VR-4.  Has anybody found one that provides enhanced
Chrysler/Asian data?  Has anybody used the EASE tool on a 96+? 

Subject #2 - DSBC/Boost gauge accuracy

I think my little brain may have just figured something out.  A number of
people have commented that their boost gauge does not exactly agree with
their Blitz DSBC.  Everybody I've talked to said that their boost gauge reads
slightly LESS boost than the DSBC.  Well I was up at about 5000 feet the
other day and I got in my car and turned the key to the acc position and
noticed that my boost gauge read LESS than 0 (standard atmospheric pressure).
 I thought about this and realized that it should.  After all when the car
isn't running, the boost gauge is reading atmospheric pressure (albeit the
pressure in the plenum which should be close to atmospheric).  I then glanced
at the DSBC and it read dead on 0.00.  That can't be right!  We all know
atmospheric pressure decreases with altitude.  My conclusion:  The DSBC
displays relative pressure, i.e. when it's turned on, it 'zero's itself and
then reads up or down from there, in other words, it reads how much
pressure/vaccum your turbos/engine make above and beyond current atmospheric
pressure.  The boost gauge (a Greddy electronic unit in this case) displays
absolute pressure, it displays real pressure in the plenum, so unless you are
in Death Valley (230 feet below sea level) or caught in a very high pressure
zone of weather at sea level (which is rare, compared to lows), the absolute
pressure boost gauge will generally read slightly less than the DSBC. 

This means that the boost gauge, (at least one that reads absolute pressure
like the Greddy) is the more accurate indicator of the pressure your engine
is seeing.  At least in theory.  I get this nagging feeling I'm missing
something though.  When I got my pilots license I always had problems with
pressure and altitude calculations. 

Alright, fire away, tell me where I've goofed in my thinking.  Until I get
better evidence I'm going to trust my Greddy gauge.

Cyrus
 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 22:27:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventative maintenance?

Hi Jeff,

Your car is punishing you for lack of driving.

I just went downstairs and checked #4 & 5 rod bearings
with plastigauge.  Limit is .004" Mine checked .0015
to .002 --- not bad for 93k miles.  The last 50k was
drag racing and road courses.

Started using Mobil 1 at 43k.  I change the Mobil 1
about 4k or every 3 road track events whichever comes
sooner.

Be of good cheer,
John

[snip]
- --- Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Ahhh, at last the voice of reason and experience.
> Thanks Cyrus for a

> put it - I do normally only drive the car ~2000
> miles a year and it
> sits for 6 months).
>
> Thanks for your post!
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <NassiriC@aol.com>
> To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 5:35 PM
> Subject: Team3S: RE: Rod bearing preventative
> maintenance?
> <snip>
> Cyrus

=====
Please respond to jczoom@iname.com
'93 TT with Porsche brakes and Supra TT rotors
12.4@109MPH  5/97 almost stock
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 00:30:35 -0500
From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Lack of knowledge

Hi all,

    After reading the posts on this list for a few weeks, i have realized
how little i know about all of this. The bad part is that the mitsu dealer i
got the car from (a '95 vr4 w/ 60k on it) wouldn't let me take it to a
mechanic. As you can probably guess, once I got it, I found out that it
needs a new transmission and a whole bunch of other things. My question is
this - is there any one in the Chicago-land area or in the East Lansing, MI
area that would be interested in/able to help me out and take a look at the
car, lemme know what else needs to be done.

    I live in the northern suburbs of chicago, but will be at school in
about a week at Michigan State University, up in East Lansing.

    Thanks a lot in advance

        Alex.

Green '95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 00:14:30 -0700
From: "Steven M." <nws3@winisp.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lack of knowledge

How long since you've purchased it have the problems popped up?
Did they expressly deny you a buyer's inspection?

It may very well be that the dealership has to put up some cash for it.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Alex Pedenko
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 10:31 PM
To: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Lack of knowledge

Hi all,

    After reading the posts on this list for a few weeks, i have
realized
how little i know about all of this. The bad part is that the mitsu
dealer i
got the car from (a '95 vr4 w/ 60k on it) wouldn't let me take it to a
mechanic. As you can probably guess, once I got it, I found out that it
needs a new transmission and a whole bunch of other things. My question
is
this - is there any one in the Chicago-land area or in the East Lansing,
MI
area that would be interested in/able to help me out and take a look at
the
car, lemme know what else needs to be done.

    I live in the northern suburbs of chicago, but will be at school in
about a week at Michigan State University, up in East Lansing.

    Thanks a lot in advance

        Alex.

Green '95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 08:50:28 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

You're welcome to every gallon of "new" carbonized oil I remove from the car
after each event - you pay shipping from Houston, TX.

You know there are companies that make a business of re-refining waste oil.
You are also welcome to put the stuff that comes out of their process back
into your car, like the cheap oil change places do.

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Zobel, Kurt [SMTP:KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 7:30 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
> Yeah, where do you guys live.  I can use all that 'new' oil you're
> throwing away!
>
> Kurt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Geoff Mohler [mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 4:09 PM
> To: Sean Winker
> Cc: 'Jeff Lucius'; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
>
> Every 1k miles is burning money..please, just paypal it to me instead.
>
> Lets be _reasonable_ here.  1000 miles is barely warming up the oil.  Its
> like washing your hands every 10 minutes while sitting at home.
>
> Its just not a reasonable thing to _have_ to do.
>
> 3K is about the minumum anyone should worry about..even racing.  Now..if
> youre HIGHLY modified where you see 20+psi and fuel dilution from blowby
> is an issue.  Every race would be a choice if the motor was built
> extremely loose to make more power..for racing only.
>
> On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Sean Winker wrote:
>
> > >Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
> >
> > Isn't this overkill to the extreme unless you're racing?  Sounds like
> the
> > damage has already been done.  Are you also changing oil filter at every
> oil
> > change?  What kind of filter are you using?
> >
> > Sean
> > '91 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 07:12:15 -0700
From: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Philip;

13's are really good for bone stock. And, "almost"  counts in horseshoes but
not at the track. Slight modifications in our TT's can increase horespower
significantly, so slight modifications in NA's are likely to give a
significant competitive edge as well. Be pleased with your times ;-))

Best

Darc

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:57:54 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

>13's are really good for bone stock. And, "almost"  counts in horseshoes but
>not at the track. Slight modifications in our TT's can increase horespower
>significantly, so slight modifications in NA's are likely to give a
>significant competitive edge as well. Be pleased with your times ;-))
>
Having followed a couple of VR4s equipped with boost controllers around the
track, I wonder just how much improvement there really is. I followed Mike
Willis around Heartland Park for many laps and, although he pulled away
somewhat on the straights, I was not impressed by the difference in our
cars. I also got to ride in Chuck Willis' car, and was similarly not
impressed. Of course, Chuck was shifting at 5,000, so maybe he wasn't
letting it come up on boost. Finally, my daughter bought a 91 Stealth with
a boost controller, and I know I could smoke it if we ran side by side.
She's still trying to figure out the DSBC settings and doesn't have a boost
gauge, but the results have been disappointing (to me, anyway. She loves
the car).

My car (94 VR4) has a K&N and Alamo intercoolers, but is otherwise stock.
On a damp day, with a slight misting rain, I turned a 13.5 @105 and 5.5
0-60 on the G-Force meter (because I got great launches with all four
wheels spinning and then hooking up perfectly -- I could not repeat that on
dry pavement because I won't launch at 6000 rpm or whatever it takes to
break them loose)

Is it possible that my Alamo intercoolers have contributed to the
performance of my car?  I thought that intercoolers simply let you keep
boost for extended periods and eliminated heat sinking in stock
intercoolers, but didn't actually contribute to performance. 

If I add a boost controller, downpipe, and gut the cats, what performance
gains should I expect?

Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:21:20 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Rich,

I don't remember whether you have a boost gauge on your car.  When you come
to Texas in January, I want to look under the hood.  I understand your car
was previously owned by a drag racer who installed the Alamo intercoolers,
so I am curious whether he didn't install an aquarium valve or something to
your vacuum lines.

Also, Mike noted that you were picking up a lot of time in the corners by
following his line and late braking.  Also recall that he hadn't been on a
track for a year and a half.

I'm sorry you weren't impressed by the accelleration of my car when you rode
with me.  Remember it was Group 3 and I was really laying off.  I think I
drove a little more aggressively with Flash and Jim in the car.  I believe
Flash was impressed with the car's accelleration properties.

You work your car very hard, and make it deliver for you through the
corners.  Maybe you should consider that you are a pretty good driver,
instead of wondering why those less skilled are unable to produce your
results with tricked up cars!

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 9:58 AM
> To: Darc; stealth@starnet.net; team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Philip V.
> Glazatov
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip
>
> >13's are really good for bone stock. And, "almost"  counts in horseshoes
> but
> >not at the track. Slight modifications in our TT's can increase
> horespower
> >significantly, so slight modifications in NA's are likely to give a
> >significant competitive edge as well. Be pleased with your times ;-))
> >
> Having followed a couple of VR4s equipped with boost controllers around
> the
> track, I wonder just how much improvement there really is. I followed Mike
> Willis around Heartland Park for many laps and, although he pulled away
> somewhat on the straights, I was not impressed by the difference in our
> cars. I also got to ride in Chuck Willis' car, and was similarly not
> impressed. Of course, Chuck was shifting at 5,000, so maybe he wasn't
> letting it come up on boost. Finally, my daughter bought a 91 Stealth with
> a boost controller, and I know I could smoke it if we ran side by side.
> She's still trying to figure out the DSBC settings and doesn't have a
> boost
> gauge, but the results have been disappointing (to me, anyway. She loves
> the car).
>
> My car (94 VR4) has a K&N and Alamo intercoolers, but is otherwise stock.
> On a damp day, with a slight misting rain, I turned a 13.5 @105 and 5.5
> 0-60 on the G-Force meter (because I got great launches with all four
> wheels spinning and then hooking up perfectly -- I could not repeat that
> on
> dry pavement because I won't launch at 6000 rpm or whatever it takes to
> break them loose)
>
> Is it possible that my Alamo intercoolers have contributed to the
> performance of my car?  I thought that intercoolers simply let you keep
> boost for extended periods and eliminated heat sinking in stock
> intercoolers, but didn't actually contribute to performance. 
>
> If I add a boost controller, downpipe, and gut the cats, what performance
> gains should I expect?
>
> Rich/old poop

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:35:37 -0500
From: "Christopher Deutsch" <crdeutsch@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

I agree with Charles.  If you can't tell the difference between a stock car
and a car boosting at 1 bar then the stock car is not stock.  The difference
is very noticeable.  For me it was like a whole new car.  Rich, my bet is
the previous owner already turned up the boost on your car without using
electronics.
Christopher

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: "'Merritt'" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>; "Darc" <wce@telus.net>;
<stealth@starnet.net>; <team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>; "Philip V. Glazatov"
<gphilip@umich.edu>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 10:21 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip


> Rich,
>
> I don't remember whether you have a boost gauge on your car.  When you
come
> to Texas in January, I want to look under the hood.  I understand your car
> was previously owned by a drag racer who installed the Alamo intercoolers,
> so I am curious whether he didn't install an aquarium valve or something
to
> your vacuum lines.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:41:26 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

There is no evidence of a boost controller or manual valve.
If it's there, it's hid good.
It still has the hoot, so the BOV is stock.
The exhaust looks stock and untouched. I added a custom catback, but it's
still pretty quiet, indicating the presence of cat guts. 
I added a boost gauge, and it tops out at 12 psi, stock for 94s.

Of course, I didn't know I had Alamo intercoolers either until I tried to
replace them.
It has a fuel pressure sending unit, but it's not hooked up to anything.
I wish we had some VR4 wizards around here who knew what to look for.

Rich

At 10:35 AM 8/17/01 -0500, Christopher Deutsch wrote:
>I agree with Charles.  If you can't tell the difference between a stock car
>and a car boosting at 1 bar then the stock car is not stock.  The difference
>is very noticeable.  For me it was like a whole new car.  Rich, my bet is
>the previous owner already turned up the boost on your car without using
>electronics.
>Christopher

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:59:02 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Question:  Upgraded intercoolers - maybe you've got upgraded turbos
also.  I have heard many reports of larger turbos pulling harder even
with the same boost settings as a smaller turbo.  Possibly could yours
have been replaced with say a 13 or 15G, and running at 12 psi, pull
almost as hard as a car with the 9B running close to 15 psi???

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Merritt
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 10:41 AM
To: Christopher Deutsch; Willis, Charles E.; Darc; stealth@starnet.net;
team3S@stealth-3000gt.st; Philip V. Glazatov
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip


There is no evidence of a boost controller or manual valve.
If it's there, it's hid good.
It still has the hoot, so the BOV is stock.
The exhaust looks stock and untouched. I added a custom catback, but
it's
still pretty quiet, indicating the presence of cat guts. 
I added a boost gauge, and it tops out at 12 psi, stock for 94s.

Of course, I didn't know I had Alamo intercoolers either until I tried
to
replace them.
It has a fuel pressure sending unit, but it's not hooked up to anything.
I wish we had some VR4 wizards around here who knew what to look for.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:07:39 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

If I didn't know I had Alamos, can you imagine me figuring out if my car
has upgraded turbos? I wouldn't know where to start.
Rich

At 10:59 AM 8/17/01 -0500, cody wrote:
>Question:  Upgraded intercoolers - maybe you've got upgraded turbos
>also. 

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:29:37 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Darc says:
>If you do not have a manual valve
>plumbed in somewhere,  I would be surprised.

We tried to install a manual boost controller last year, but couldn't get
it to work. No matter how we adjusted it, we kept getting 21 psi and
blowing off the Y-pipe. (It ran like a sumbitch though until the Y-pipe
blew!). We eventually gave up.

If there was another manual controller hidden in the plumbing, would that
account for our problem?

I've been peering at that plumbing for three years. You'd think I woulda
spotted it by now. The dealer saw the fuel pressure sending unit, but
didn't see anything else strange, and I asked him to examine it closely.

I tried to find the previous owner a coupla times, but there are too many
folks with the same name in the St.Louis phone book. I left a few messages
here and there, but nobody returned my calls.

Rich/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:40:12 -0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventative maintenance?

John:  How did you check the bearings with Plastigage - Is you engine torn
apart right now?

Andy

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:41:35 -0500
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Rich - the answer to your pondering is hidden in your own statement.

You experienced 'sumbitch' performance when you increased the boost - thus
the conclusion is that a boost controller helps.

Oskar
12.6 @ 108 on stock turbos (w. boost controller)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "Darc" <wce@telus.net>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 11:29 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip


> Darc says:
> >If you do not have a manual valve
> >plumbed in somewhere,  I would be surprised.
>
> We tried to install a manual boost controller last year, but couldn't get
> it to work. No matter how we adjusted it, we kept getting 21 psi and
> blowing off the Y-pipe. (It ran like a sumbitch though until the Y-pipe
> blew!). We eventually gave up.
>
> If there was another manual controller hidden in the plumbing, would that
> account for our problem?
>
> I've been peering at that plumbing for three years. You'd think I woulda
> spotted it by now. The dealer saw the fuel pressure sending unit, but
> didn't see anything else strange, and I asked him to examine it closely.
>
> I tried to find the previous owner a coupla times, but there are too many
> folks with the same name in the St.Louis phone book. I left a few messages
> here and there, but nobody returned my calls.
>
> Rich/94 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:55:43 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

> If I didn't know I had Alamos, can you imagine me figuring
> out if my car has upgraded turbos? I wouldn't know where to
> start. Rich

One quick and easy way is to take the intake tube off the front turbo and
look at the compressor wheel.  If it has "sets" of blades grouped together
and not just uniform-spaced blades then the turbos are upgraded.  15G's are
this way, and I'm pretty sure 13G's are as well.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/blucius/b-15g_1n.jpg

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 09:57:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Rich,

It is very easy to tell if you have upgraded turbos. You need to
remove the intake hose from the front turbo. Look at the housing and
the part number stamped on it (the compressor housing is what you are
looking at). Also look at the compressor wheel itself (in the opening
where the hose was attached). I have the part number info and many
pictures of different compressor wheels on my turbo upgrade guide web
page below. But, simply, the stock 9B compressor wheel has 12 blades
all at the same height. 13G and 15G (the most common upgrades)
compressor wheels have 12 blades but the tips are at two different
heights, alternating high and low. With some 13G and 15G upgrades the
housings may look identical to the stock TD04-9B housings, but the
blades reveal the truth for sure.

http://www.geocities.com/lutransys/jlucius2/j2-2-turboguide.htm

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net> wrote:
> If I didn't know I had Alamos, can you imagine me figuring out if
> my car
> has upgraded turbos? I wouldn't know where to start.
> Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:19:41 -0400
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Excellent times Philip, but I'd like to know what you mean by "Here are my
results net my reaction times:"  Just curious if you took some time off your
ET because of a less than perfect reaction time (I've seen some do this).  If
you didn't, those are very impressive times given the trap speeds.

Please post your whole time slip including the 60 ft times.

BTW - FWDs are not running 13s with simple mods unless "simple" includes
nitrous.

Joe G.
'92 R/T TT

"Philip V. Glazatov" wrote:

> Here are my results net my reaction times:
>
>                 Run 1   Run 2   Run 3   (Run 3 G-Tech reading)
> Time, sec       13.927  13.514  13.685  (14.05)
> Speed, mph      95.24   99.31   98.47   (103.6)
>
> Philip
> '95 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:26:28 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

So what do you guys use to compress your brake caliper pistons when you're
changing brake pads?  The best I've come up with is a small piece of (1/4"
thick) wood to cover the piston and then using a "C" clamp.  Two problems
with this, though.  1:  Have to have the caliper off to do it  2:  no really
good place on the back side of the caliper to put the "C" clamp's other end.
I know several people change pads trackside, so I know there HAS to be an
easier way.  Can one of the enlightened show me the way?

- --Erik
'95VR-4 with stock pads/rotors again

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 10:26:41 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Noticing a difference with a boost controller

To add my 2hp to the thread....

I have a GReddy electronic boost controller that has a "normal" setting and
a "high boost" setting, adjustable from the driver's seat.  I mainly drive
with the normal setting and switch to the high setting when I want to play.
I have "normal" set to 0.7bar (about 10psi) and "high boost" set to 0.9bar
(about 13psi).  I definitely notice a big difference between the two.  I
also notice that I hear the turbos more, especially in 1st and 2nd where the
wind noise is lower. 

One question I have is that with the boost controller at 0.9bar, I notice a
significant difference in 1st and 2nd gear (as well as other gears where you
spend more time near peak boost).  Since the needle on the boost gauge
doesn't seem to get very high in 1st gear or 2nd gear by the point where we
make peak boost (about 4-4.5kRPM), why am I noticing a difference? 

It seems that after 4500RPM, boost is limited by the turbos' efficiency, not
the boost control solenoid or the boost controller.   So why would there be
a difference?  To put it another way, if boost drops off to 10psi (arbitrary
guess) by 6000RPM, then it wouldn't matter if the boost controller were set
to 10psi or 14psi.  What am I missing?

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:33:39 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Sporadic heating problems can definitely kill a bearing, often without immediately revealing what happened.

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Moe Prasad [mailto:mprasad01@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 7:02 PM
To: Zobel, Kurt; Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

My main bearing went a little over a year ago.  When it went, I had lost oil
pressure.  My car had about 64K on it.  Maybe we should change the oil pump
at 60K service.

I personally think it was an oil additive that I had in my engine for about
a 100 miles that clogged up the holes for the oil.  I even flushed my engine
and then put cheap oil for 100 miles and then went back to Mobile 1 but
after a 1000 miles, it was the end of the bearings.

I have a friend in NY with a 92 VR4 and he does not take car of his car at
all.  He did not do any maintenance on it.  His water pump went at 95K and
that is the only reason he replaced his timing belt.  Oil changes are far
and few in-between.  I don't think he has ever cleaned the engine
compartment.  He drives very fast.  His car is a 92 and he has had the car
from when it was new.  At the present time his engine is still running
strong.

Maybe what we should do is have the holes drilled a little bigger on the
crank, (if there are holes) for the more oil.  When I was young, I had a
pinto (STOP LAUGHING - I paid less for the pinto then a set of plugs and
wires for my current car) and they were notorious for the cams going  bad.
My friends father who was a mechanic gave me a cam that he drilled the holes
a little bigger and the problem when away.  Maybe we can do the same with
the crank as my friend's father did with the cam. I am not a mechanic so I
don't know if this is possible or just a stupid idea.

Rgd
Moe

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 6:30 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> Yeah, where do you guys live.  I can use all that 'new' oil you're
throwing away!
>
> Kurt

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:04:21 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

Ultra simple.
Use a set of slip-joint pliers. Grab the brake pad and the caliper right at
the front edge and squeeze.  There's a convenient little lip on the stock
calipers for doing this. This pushes in the pistons on one side. Change the
pad. Then do the other side. If necessary, to get the last little bit of
room for a new pad, pry with a big screwdriver between the pad and the rotor.

Do not attempt to take out both pads at the same time. With nothing to stop
the pistons from coming out, when you squeeze one side, the other pistons
extend.

So do it one pad at a time, and you can change 'em in 5 minutes. It also
helps to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, so the fluid can flow
back easily.

We musta changed 47 sets of brake pads last weekend. Or maybe it just
seemed that way.

When you get Big Reds, it's even easier.

Rich

At 10:26 AM 8/17/01 -0700, Gross, Erik wrote:
>So what do you guys use to compress your brake caliper pistons when you're
>changing brake pads?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:25:38 -0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Noticing a difference with a boost controller

>
>
>doesn't seem to get very high in 1st gear or 2nd gear by the point where we
>make peak boost (about 4-4.5kRPM), why am I noticing a difference? 
>
I know that when I gutted out my precats, put on a boost controller and
downpipe,
that the turbo spool up was a lot faster than it had been stock. Even
though the boost
doesn't get to 0.9+ bar it does come on faster and stronger which is
quite a kick in the
pants. The improved spool up may explain some of it. For me it is enough
that I'm
afraid to launch the car in first gear sometimes, on the stock turbos :-)

 Walton C. Gibson
kalla@tripoint.org


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:16:30 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

> Ultra simple. Use a set of slip-joint pliers.
> Grab the brake pad and the caliper right at
> the front edge and squeeze.  There's a convenient little lip
> on the stock calipers for doing this.

Ahhh....  so there aren't any issues with needing to push the pistons
straight "down" into the caliper?


> Do not attempt to take out both pads at the same time. With
> nothing to stop the pistons from coming out,
> when you squeeze one side, the other pistons extend.

Oops.  Really?  This hasn't happened in the 3 times I've changed pads in the
last week :)  Actually, I've used a "C" clamp on each of the 4 pistons
individually each time...  I took all the pads out of both front calipers
and then compressed the pistons...  hope I didn't break anything!

> When you get Big Reds, it's even easier.

Man, the incentives just keep piling up :-)

- --Erik

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:19:57 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Illinois Lemon Law (Was: Lack of knowledge)

Hey, Alex,

A quick check of the Illinois "Lemon Law" revealed that Used Cars are not
covered.  (This is the URL, FYI:
http://www.ag.state.il.us/publications/lemonlaw.htm ) That means that you'll
have to start making yourself obnoxious at the dealer.  Start by asking them
for the car's maintenance record (they have it on computer for EVERY car).
And especially make sure that the (REQUIRED) "60k Service" was done
(~$1000)!  Every dealer knows that this is a MUST, so if they didn't do it,
it's a further indication that they were trying to scam you.  Insist on them
springing for any repairs since they are required to check out a vehicle
before selling it, and that they must have known of the faulty components.
This is not exactly the way you want to spend your last week before going to
school, but get on the net and on the phone and do a little homework.  Or
prepare to come up with a few thousand dollars...

Do a search on www.google.com for  "Lemon Law" +Illinois  (use the quotes),
and start to read the first few entries.  There are a dozen important
websites and phone numbers there.  Just a few phone calls and emails might
get you started, and you might even find a lawyer or two willing to make a
call for you.  My guess is that the dealer saw a "young guy" and decided to
take advantage of you.  Don't let them get away with it - go after them.

Good luck!

Forrest

From: "Alex Pedenko" <apedenko@mediaone.net>
> Hi all,
>     After reading the posts on this list for a few weeks, i have realized
how little i know about all of this. The bad part is that the mitsu dealer i
got the car from (a '95 vr4 w/ 60k on it) wouldn't let me take it to a
 mechanic. As you can probably guess, once I got it, I found out that it
needs a new transmission and a whole bunch of other things. My question is
this - is there any one in the Chicago-land area or in the East Lansing, MI
area that would be interested in/able to help me out and take a look at the
car, lemme know what else needs to be done.
>     I live in the northern suburbs of chicago, but will be at school in
about a week at Michigan State University, up in East Lansing.
>     Thanks a lot in advance
>         Alex.
> Green '95 VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:23:42 -0500
From: "Oskar" <osk@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

To make this procedure even simpler you can install speed bleeders.  Simply
attach your brake fluid bleeding hose to the nipple and open a 1/4 turn or
so.

There are two benefits to this:
- - Pistons push back easier
- - Pushing one side does not cause the other side to pop out.

Oskar

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>; "Team3S List (E-mail)"
<team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

> Ultra simple.
> Use a set of slip-joint pliers. Grab the brake pad and the caliper right
at
> the front edge and squeeze.  There's a convenient little lip on the stock
> calipers for doing this. This pushes in the pistons on one side. Change
the
> pad. Then do the other side. If necessary, to get the last little bit of
> room for a new pad, pry with a big screwdriver between the pad and the
rotor.
>
> Do not attempt to take out both pads at the same time. With nothing to
stop
> the pistons from coming out, when you squeeze one side, the other pistons
> extend.
>
> So do it one pad at a time, and you can change 'em in 5 minutes. It also
> helps to take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir, so the fluid can flow
> back easily.
>
> We musta changed 47 sets of brake pads last weekend. Or maybe it just
> seemed that way.
>
> When you get Big Reds, it's even easier.
>
> Rich
>
> At 10:26 AM 8/17/01 -0700, Gross, Erik wrote:
> >So what do you guys use to compress your brake caliper pistons when
you're
> >changing brake pads?

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:37:44 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@starband.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Reaction times have nothing to do with ET.  No one should do that
whatsoever... You could literally have a 30 second reaction time, and a
ET of 9.5 seconds...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Joe Gonsowski
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:20 PM
To: Philip V. Glazatov
Cc: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip


Excellent times Philip, but I'd like to know what you mean by "Here are
my
results net my reaction times:"  Just curious if you took some time off
your
ET because of a less than perfect reaction time (I've seen some do
this).  If
you didn't, those are very impressive times given the trap speeds.

Please post your whole time slip including the 60 ft times.

BTW - FWDs are not running 13s with simple mods unless "simple" includes
nitrous.

Joe G.
'92 R/T TT

"Philip V. Glazatov" wrote:

> Here are my results net my reaction times:
>
>                 Run 1   Run 2   Run 3   (Run 3 G-Tech reading)
> Time, sec       13.927  13.514  13.685  (14.05)
> Speed, mph      95.24   99.31   98.47   (103.6)
>
> Philip
> '95 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 21:36:59 +0300
From: "Oleg Reznik" <Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Team3S: Tein suspension

Hello,

I still wait my Tein HA dampers, but I know the total weight of package
now - 80lbs. My stock shocks and GC springs are a lot lighter...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:34:19 -0500
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

>
>Ahhh....  so there aren't any issues with needing to push the pistons
>straight "down" into the caliper?

As long as you are squeezing the brake pad, you are exerting pressure
evenly across the pistons.
>
>
>> Do not attempt to take out both pads at the same time. With
>> nothing to stop the pistons from coming out,
>> when you squeeze one side, the other pistons extend.
>
>Oops.  Really?  This hasn't happened in the 3 times I've changed pads in the
>last week :)  Actually, I've used a "C" clamp on each of the 4 pistons
>individually each time...

Well, of course they couldn't extend ...not with a c-clamp holding them down.

 I took all the pads out of both front calipers
>and then compressed the pistons...  hope I didn't break anything!

No. You just did it the hard way.
Changing pads is really very easy and fast.

Rich

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 13:51:31 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

Everybody has a variation, depending on preference and clearance on their
calipers.  Flash uses a HUMONGOUS set of channellocks the likes of which I
had never seen.  I use two C-clamps on the old pad backer plate, but
channellocks are my backup.  There is a tool you can buy at Sears for about
$10 to spread the pads.  All of these can be done without removing the
caliper, but if a piston gets hung up, you will have to remove the caliper
to get a good push on the piston.  That can STILL be done trackside with the
fluid hose still attached.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:26 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?
>
> So what do you guys use to compress your brake caliper pistons when you're
> changing brake pads?  The best I've come up with is a small piece of (1/4"
> thick) wood to cover the piston and then using a "C" clamp.  Two problems
> with this, though.  1:  Have to have the caliper off to do it  2:  no
> really
> good place on the back side of the caliper to put the "C" clamp's other
> end.
> I know several people change pads trackside, so I know there HAS to be an
> easier way.  Can one of the enlightened show me the way?
>
> --Erik
> '95VR-4 with stock pads/rotors again

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 11:55:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tein suspension

For my 1992 TT, each front strut assembly (complete) weighed ~26 lb,
and each rear shock assembly (complete) weighed ~15 lb (bathroom
scales). That would be ~82 lb without a shipping package, which could
easily add 5-10 lbs. With the GC kit, the struts weigh ~20 lb and the
shocks ~12.5 lb - total of ~65 lb.

Looking forward to see how the Teins work out.

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- --- Oleg Reznik <Oleg@3000gt.lv> wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I still wait my Tein HA dampers, but I know the total weight of
> package
> now - 80lbs. My stock shocks and GC springs are a lot lighter...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 14:08:47 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tein suspension

We measured a difference of 22# between the stock springs and the GC setup
(15# front, 7# rear) with similar bathroom scale accuracy and that was with
the initial incorrect short rear Eibach springs.

Jeff's numbers 82-65=17#.

similar numbers, certainly within the accuracy of our scales and my
uncorrected vision!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 1:55 PM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Tein suspension
>
> For my 1992 TT, each front strut assembly (complete) weighed ~26 lb,
> and each rear shock assembly (complete) weighed ~15 lb (bathroom
> scales). That would be ~82 lb without a shipping package, which could
> easily add 5-10 lbs. With the GC kit, the struts weigh ~20 lb and the
> shocks ~12.5 lb - total of ~65 lb.
>
> Looking forward to see how the Teins work out.
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com
>
> --- Oleg Reznik <Oleg@3000gt.lv> wrote:
> > Hello,
> >
> > I still wait my Tein HA dampers, but I know the total weight of
> > package
> > now - 80lbs. My stock shocks and GC springs are a lot lighter...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 14:16:44 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: Team3S: apologizing in advance to the list and admins ...

this is the only way I can reach Rich Merritt - all my email directly to him
is getting bounced as SPAM (maybe appropriate?)

Chuck Willis

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:14:09 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip

Yes, just to clarify, your reaction time is time from light goes green til your wheels/car break the timing light, and ET is break timing light til break finnish line timing light.

The winner is the first to cross finnish line from green light, so includes both of above, but is seldom/if ever included as a total time on time slips. Just 'first' or 'winner' is noted.

Gtech times are only ET times, but the Gtech starts as soon as the car starts, rather than waiting for a break light condition, so time may be a tenth or two longer than track ET times.
Also, it measures instantaneous final speed vs trap speed, so will usually report speed higher than track speeds.  Slower time, higher speed with Gtech just as Phillip indicated.
 
Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: cody [mailto:overclck@starband.net]
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 11:38 AM
To: 'Joe Gonsowski'; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back from a drag strip


Reaction times have nothing to do with ET.  No one should do that
whatsoever... You could literally have a 30 second reaction time, and a
ET of 9.5 seconds...

- -Cody

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com] On Behalf
Of Joe Gonsowski
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:20 PM
To: Philip V. Glazatov
Cc: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Re: Team3S: Back from a drag strip


Excellent times Philip, but I'd like to know what you mean by "Here are
my
results net my reaction times:"  Just curious if you took some time off
your
ET because of a less than perfect reaction time (I've seen some do
this).  If
you didn't, those are very impressive times given the trap speeds.

Please post your whole time slip including the 60 ft times.

BTW - FWDs are not running 13s with simple mods unless "simple" includes
nitrous.

Joe G.
'92 R/T TT

"Philip V. Glazatov" wrote:

> Here are my results net my reaction times:
>
>                 Run 1   Run 2   Run 3   (Run 3 G-Tech reading)
> Time, sec       13.927  13.514  13.685  (14.05)
> Speed, mph      95.24   99.31   98.47   (103.6)
>
> Philip
> '95 R/T TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 17 Aug 2001 15:23:30 -0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?

I use a lug nut crowbar and a large screwdriver or the handle of channel locks, one at each side of an old pad. This pushes evenly. Just push slow and even don't over do it and you can push against the rotor w/o any trouble.

Kurt

- -----Original Message-----
From: Willis, Charles E. [mailto:cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org]
Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 11:52 AM
To: Team3S List (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?


Everybody has a variation, depending on preference and clearance on their
calipers.  Flash uses a HUMONGOUS set of channellocks the likes of which I
had never seen.  I use two C-clamps on the old pad backer plate, but
channellocks are my backup.  There is a tool you can buy at Sears for about
$10 to spread the pads.  All of these can be done without removing the
caliper, but if a piston gets hung up, you will have to remove the caliper
to get a good push on the piston.  That can STILL be done trackside with the
fluid hose still attached.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent: Friday, August 17, 2001 12:26 PM
> To: Team3S List (E-mail)
> Subject: Team3S: How to compress brake caliper pistons?
>
> So what do you guys use to compress your brake caliper pistons when you're
> changing brake pads?  The best I've come up with is a small piece of (1/4"
> thick) wood to cover the piston and then using a "C" clamp.  Two problems
> with this, though.  1:  Have to have the caliper off to do it  2:  no
> really
> good place on the back side of the caliper to put the "C" clamp's other
> end.
> I know several people change pads trackside, so I know there HAS to be an
> easier way.  Can one of the enlightened show me the way?
>
> --Erik
> '95VR-4 with stock pads/rotors again

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #581
***************************************