Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth   Thursday, August 16 2001   Volume 01 : Number 579




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 00:37:48 +0300
From: "Oleg Reznik" <Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?

Yes, it's dangerous in Sport mode too. When you drive car with GC coilovers,
the ECS must switch your shocks to Middle or Sport automaticly:))
I drove my car Riga-Moscow-Riga last week, it's approximately 1500 miles, it
was a HELL! The car jumped on the road all the way, I think the cars as
Suzuki Vitara or simular are enjoyable now to drive.
My springs rates are the same as Jeff's variant 2 (shortest front springs).

Oleg Reznik
3SI#0441
www.3000gt.lv


> DANGEROUS?  Is it dangerous to drive with the ECS in Sport Mode?  That's
the
> equivalent ride to mine.
>
> What are the markings on your front and rear Eibach springs and what ride
> height are you running?
>
> O'starozynya Chuck
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Oleg Reznik [SMTP:Oleg@3000gt.lv]
> > Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 2:33 PM
> > To: Team3S
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
> >
> >
> > Hello guys,
> >
> > I also installed GC month ago and also have that bouncy
> > effect. I think, it's dangerous drive car with GC coilovers. I talked
with
> > Tein and will receive HA dampers next week. I can't drive my car, it's
> > like
> > frog.
> >
> > Oleg Reznik
> > 3SI#0441
> > www.3000gt.lv
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 15:28:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Hello all,

I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest link in
our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my '92 TT. I recently
helped a friend inspect his rod bearings after he developed a knock.
Number 6 had spun; the tabs were either missing or flattened; the
crank journal had been worn down by the spinning bearing.

I talked to my engine builder last night. He believes that the last
cylinders, #5 and #6, are not oiled as well as the 1st ones, #1 and
#2 near the pump. He also thinks Mitsu should have made the bearings
wider to carry the load better.

I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
are required.

What do you guys think of this idea?  I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: 15 Aug 2001 15:32:28 -0700
From: John Monnin <jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject: Team3S: Supra Fuel Pump and College Station Racing

I saw that Conecelli was offering the Supra Fuel pump 23221-46110 for $170 on their DSM specials page.

http://www.partznet.com/mitsudsmclub.html

P.S.

Texas Motor Speedway is in Dallas, about 10 miles south of the Peterbilt Factory in Denton.  I just drove by it last Thursday and it still there.

Charles Willis Must be and Aggie, you can tell because he called it LOVELY College Station.  When I worked at Peterbilt all of my Aggie friends though that the rest of Texas was a subdiviion of College Station.

Charles if you are not an Aggie I hope I didn't offend you.

John Monnin
jkmonnin @altavista.com
1991 VR4 with NEW 4-bolt shortblock!!!
Kids don't try this at home.
engine has been re-assembled and is waiting patiently for me to drop it into the car.

Original Message Below
...>
>From: "Willis, Charles E." >cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
>Subject: Team3S: Lone Star Region PCA DE Schedule for >2002
 
>Ladies and Gentlemen, (bad) Boys and Girls,
 
>The following dates have been announced for the LSR >Region High Speed
>Drivers Education events at Texas World Speedway in >lovely College Station,
>Texas for the year of our Lord 2002: 
 
***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 18:40:58 -0400
From: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

I'm glad to see I wasn't being paranoid.  I've been through 2 engines in the
last 2 and a half years, both because of bearings.  My new motor is using
Clevite bearings, and I plan to keep it that way.  I originally planned to
do bearings every 25k, but I thought that was overkill.  Maybe not :)

I can tell anyone who is thinking of doing this, it's worth it.  The labor
isn't hard at all.  Just time consuming.  Figure 6 hours or so for the pan
removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the RTV
form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan.  As far as insurance for your
motor goes, it doesn't get better (or cheaper) than this.

Jeff V.
1991 Stealth ESX Twin Turbo
jeffv@1nce.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Jeff Lucius
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:28 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Hello all,

I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest link in
our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my '92 TT. I recently
helped a friend inspect his rod bearings after he developed a knock.
Number 6 had spun; the tabs were either missing or flattened; the
crank journal had been worn down by the spinning bearing.

I talked to my engine builder last night. He believes that the last
cylinders, #5 and #6, are not oiled as well as the 1st ones, #1 and
#2 near the pump. He also thinks Mitsu should have made the bearings
wider to carry the load better.

I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
are required.

What do you guys think of this idea?  I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:39:51 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest
> link in our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my
> '92 TT. I recently helped a friend inspect his rod bearings
> after he developed a knock. Number 6 had spun; the tabs were
> either missing or flattened; the crank journal had been worn
> down by the spinning bearing.

Hmmm.  I pulled mine out since I'm boring the block and such after my broken
pistons and the rod bearings actually look very good.  They are slightly
worn in, but I wouldn't say the wear was abnormal at all.  I'm replacing all
the bearings with new OEM Mitsu parts just because I can, but was actually
considering reusing them since they are hardly worn.  Unfortunatley I don't
have pictures of the bearings and they are at the machine shop with the
block/crank/rods/pistons/heads, but I can take pictures of them when I get
my stuff back.  My car has a little under 60,000 miles on it.

Mine has the 4-bolt mains, if that makes any difference.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 19:48:34 EDT
From: DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

What are the signs of a bearing that's got little life on it?   Are there any
signs?  You've all got me thinking I should do it to mine.  My engine has 20k
miles on it since it's last rebuild and I think it's time to tear it down
again and clean it up.

- -Paul - 3Si1127
1992 Green RT/TT
    K&N FIPK & Re-gapped plugs(0.034")
    Porterfield Cryo-Treated Rotors, R-4S Pads, & SS lines
    Greddy Profec Boost Controller @ .9 Bar
    Custom 3" Exhaust
www.DiabloCarAudio.com, www.DiabloEnterprises.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:09:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> Hello all,
>
> I think many of us agree that rod bearings are the weakest link in
> our engines. Mine failed with only 54K miles on my '92 TT. I recently
> helped a friend inspect his rod bearings after he developed a knock.
> Number 6 had spun; the tabs were either missing or flattened; the
> crank journal had been worn down by the spinning bearing.
- ---
Honestly..this is the first ive heard of this "common problem".
 
> I talked to my engine builder last night. He believes that the last
> cylinders, #5 and #6, are not oiled as well as the 1st ones, #1 and
> #2 near the pump. He also thinks Mitsu should have made the bearings
> wider to carry the load better.
- ---
True, but it could be on purpose because a narrower bearing chews up less
Hp.  You can gain 40-70Hp outta a motor on this fact alone.  But
again..Ive never hear of this as a chronic issue before.
 
> I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
> bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
> regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
> fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
> requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
> first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
> and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
> set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
> are required.
>
> What do you guys think of this idea?  I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
> so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).
- ---

I personally think he's stoned. Theres absolutely no reason they should be
a 'regular maintenance' item at all.  Until someone comes up with a reasy
- -why- some people have seen early failure, its impossible to offer a
"solution"..unless its a WAG (wild assed guess) like this one, with an
even more wild "fix".

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:04:01 -0700
From: Wayne <whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

I swear,
If all your guys' engine builders can't build an engine that will last more
than 25k, they are either very incompetent, or ya'll are beating the crap
out of your cars. I think the "preventive" interval should be more like
80-100k for an engine that is well taken care of.....

Wayne


At 04:48 PM 8/15/01 , DiABLoCarAudio@aol.com wrote:
>My engine has 20k
>miles on it since it's last rebuild and I think it's time to tear it down
>again and clean it up.
>
>-Paul - 3Si1127


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:15:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> I can tell anyone who is thinking of doing this, it's worth it.  The labor
> isn't hard at all.  Just time consuming.  Figure 6 hours or so for the pan
> removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the RTV
> form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan.  As far as insurance for your
> motor goes, it doesn't get better (or cheaper) than this.
- ---

Even tho the procesures to get in & outta there are rather simple, the
process of -properly- doing this job is not.  Cleanliness, attention to
complete anal detail, and measurements (the hardest part) are crucial.
Cranks DO wear down.  After 50K miles, you cannot expect your bearings to
fit like new anymore.  I dont know if mitsu offers different sizes, but on
the Toyotas I do you have a different bearing for every 1/10000th of crank
rod & main journal size.  And IF there was any issue..polishing the crank
would be important as well..otherwise any defects or oshter issues
involved will still be on the old crank surfaces to disturb your precious
oil film layer.

I in -no- way belive that a "newer" bearing adds any more life than
staying on the "older" ones.

Something caused the failure to happen, and changing bearings every 25k
will do nothing to solve the actual problem.

If a bearing is being abused..it rarely takes over 2-3K to destroy it.
Theres no such thing as "light" abuse..because once damaged just a little,
they go downhill fast.


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 00:37:23 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Hmm, I have about 80k on the engine and we didn't changed the bearings when
the pistons cracked. Never had problems so far.

In my point of view the stock pistons and rings are the weakest part as
mostly the bearing problems often start after fuel and pressurized air are
reaching the crankcase.

If one is familiar with that stuff and is able to do this himself then go
for it.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch

> I asked him what we can do about this. He suggested changing the rod
> bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it part of the
> regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing trany
> fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the crank. This
> requires removing the oil pan (downpipe, starter, and transfer case
> first) and then removing each rod cap and rotating the engine back
> and forth to gain access to each half of the bearing and the cap. A
> set of Clevite bearings is like $80. No special tools or machining
> are required.
>
> What do you guys think of this idea?  I have ~8K on my rebuilt engine
> so will try this in a couple of years (unless I get too nervous).

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 17:35:16 -0700
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheel diameter - rehash

Sorry to rehash a recent subject, but I deleted an email I meant to save.
Someone sent me a link showing recommended wheel widths given tire section
width. (eg: for 275 tire, 9" wheel recommended, etc) Anyone know where this
info can be found? I'm trying to determine the optimal wheel width for 235
and 245 tires.

Ryan Peterson
www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:37:45 -0400
From: GREG RUSH <rush@siscom.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?

I had the same problem even though i cut the bump stops in half. I kept raising
the adjustment up until the bounce went away. Do not put any type of dust cover
over the strut rod reason being that it bunches up and takes the travel out of
your suspension.

Oleg Reznik wrote:

> Hello guys,
>
> I also installed GC month ago and also have that bouncy
> effect. I think, it's dangerous drive car with GC coilovers. I talked with
> Tein and will receive HA dampers next week. I can't drive my car, it's like
> frog.
>
> Oleg Reznik
> 3SI#0441
> www.3000gt.lv
>
> > Hi Chuck,
> >
> >    I'm afraid that you did not follow the thread correctly.  Ryan was
> > referring to the stock set-up, not the GC setup.  His (and my) statement
> are
> > absolutely correct.
> >
> > Notice the clip from Ryan's email below:
> >
> > *********************************
> > > > >I disagree with the idea that the stock springs might act in both
> > > > >directions. They are not "captured" in the context that they also
> work
> > >in
> > > > >tension. They would have to be physically tied to the strut top and
> > > > bottom
> > > > >seats for this to happen. They are not, they just press against them.
> > *********************************
> >
> > Notice the usage of the word "stock", not GC.  Since the springs are not
> > physically "tied" to the spring perches, they cannot act against a
> rarifying
> > (sp?) action of the strut setup.  In reality, the stock shocks  accelerate
> > the rarification of the strut.
> >
> > Regards,
> >    Dennis
> >
> > >Dennis,
> > >
> > >That is absolutely incorrect - the maximum extension of the struts can
> > >EASILY exceed the maximum height of the springs supplied with the GC kit.
> > >All you have to do is jack up the car to see this, or look at the
> completed
> > >strut assembly with the GC installed.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 19:02:17 -0700
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel diameter - rehash

> Sorry to rehash a recent subject, but I deleted an email I meant to save.
Someone sent me a link showing recommended wheel widths given tire section
width. (eg: for 275 tire, 9" wheel recommended, etc) Anyone know where this
info can be found? I'm trying to determine the optimal wheel width for 235
 and 245 tires.
> Ryan Peterson
- ------------------------

Stick with a wheel that's about the same size as the tire width.  255mm =
10", etc (do the math: there are 25.4mm to the inch).  Besides the fact that
275's don't fit our cars without spacers, try to keep the tire width within
about +/- 10% of wheel width for best results.  In other words, a 10" wheel
will *ideally* take between a 9" and an 11" wide tire (approximately 225 to
a 275 tire).  It's been said on the list before that you can go +/- 20%, but
my alignment guy disputes that - he says 10%.  In other words, according to
him, you shouldn't put a 275 tire on a 9" wheel.  TireRack seems to be
somewhere in between, at around 15%, and they have a chart of which tire
widths are acceptable for a given wheel.  (I think for a given wheel width,
you can go from 1/2" small to 1" bigger).  For 275s, TR recommends a 9" to
11", with optimal at 9.5".  For the Yoko AVS Sport, for example, here is the
URL of their sizing page:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp?make=Yokohama&model=AVS+Sport

Best,

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 21:56:55 -0500
From: "Trevor James" <trevor@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel diameter - rehash

275/35/18's do fit on our cars without spacers. I have Volk Racing TE-37's
with Kumho 275's on all 4 corners of my Stealth. No rubbing on any changes
in alignment are necessary. You just need a 18X9" or wider wheel with an
offset of +40mm or less. All the tire manufacturers that I could find info
from state that a 9" wide rim is safe and perfectly fine for a 275/35 but as
Bob said a 9.5" rim is "optimal". You might think they would bulge but
275/35's don't look bad at all on a 9" rim. It handles great too! The
Stealth sticks MUCH better than my VR-4 with 245/40/18 Toyo Proxies. Of
course the extra 320lbs on the VR-4 doesn't help much! :)

Trevor James
96 R/T TT
11.82@116.1
93 Octane and Street tires
97 VR-4
Bone stock...

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:05:23 -0700
From: "nwlink" <vlsgto@nwlink.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Victor,

I understand how u feel. Next time, call to speak to Jerry and NOT Kenrick.
Jerry just called me last weekend and indeed that remodeling project is
killing alot of customers. I spoke to Jerry again yesterday at about
10:15am. Try calling them around that time and u should get somebody. That
male receptionist they have is a total idiot too so don't bother leaving a
message with him.

I will call Jerry for you if I have time. Does he know u as Victor then?
What did u order again?

Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com
"Caution: You are about to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@team3s.com [mailto:owner-team3s@team3s.com]On Behalf
Of Berrios, Victor L CIV
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 12:34 PM
To: 'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'
Subject: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

I placed an order back in May to this company (Paid 50% $438.00) for a Kaze
Type I Wind.  They said it should arrive the second week of June. I called
them the last week of June and they said it will take two more weeks (around
July 15).  By the end of July, I called and e-mailed them with no success. I
have been calling and e-mailing them with no response. I even told them I
would accept any other comparable product in exchange. No response.  Last
week I hear in their voice mail they were moving or relocating in the
area.????

If you were considering them for your future parts, Don't even think about
them!!!  They have my money for over 3 1/2 months now!!!!!

Don't support BOZZPERFORMANCE.

Please help me on this one.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:58:21 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECU problem

There are some old posts available in the archives.  They talk about ECU
repair shops and DIY capacitor replacement.  Here is one of them...

<<<INCLUDE
- -------- Original Message --------
Subject: Team3S: Burned ECU?
Date: Wed, 07 Jun 2000 01:27:58 -0500
From: Vineet Singh <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
To: jim.wiseman@wcom.com
CC: team3S@stealth-3000gt.st

Foreign Auto Computer Repair   ECU  20%

15404 Plantation Oaks #2
Tampa, FL 33647 USA
Phone: 813-977-5365 Phone: 813-977-8505 FAX: 813-977-8505

E-mail: acorbin@prodigy.net Web: http://foreignecurepair.com/ (This site
looks DiSgUsTiNg!)

ECU's and TCU's,most units in stock,including hard to find e-prom units for
1st Gen turbo DSMs. Rebuild and return service. Competitive pricing,
overnight shipping, credit cards accepted.

_____

MasterTech   ECU

1405 Bayport Blvd
Seabrook, TX 77586 US
Phone: 888-ECM-TOGO Phone: 281-474-7510 FAX: 281-291-0962

E-mail: mastert@flash.net Web: http://www.ecmtogo.com/

ECU repair for all Mitsubishi vechicles.

_____

Those are two well known, and decently priced "ECU REPAIR" shops that are in
the DSM Vendors list. I would suggest you call both up, and get more prices,
and talk to them about the "burn mark" on your 3/S ECU.

DSM ECU's usually can be had for less than 200$ (non-eprom), so 3/S ones
shouldn't be too much more! I'm also sure that it can't cost 600$+ to REPAIR
your current ECU, that might be a good option too, since your car still
runs, maybe it's not totally un-salvagable.

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"


PS: here is another one, but I don't know anything about them.
_____

Automotive Computer Supply/ECM Finders   ECU  20%

PO Box 890693
Houston, Texas 77289 USA
Phone: 877-ECM-7477 Phone: 281-ECM-0330 FAX: 877-326-4520

E-mail: ecmorder@earthlink.net Web: http://www.ecmfinders.com/

ECM Finders- New, Rebuilt, Used units up to 18 month warranty unlimited
milage. Specializing in Mitsubishi mfd ECM rebuilding. Also specializing in
Mitsubishi Parts locating.
>>>

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Yogourt@aol.com>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>
Cc: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Thursday, August 09, 2001 2:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: ECU problem


> My 92 Stealth TT is having some problems.  It is having trouble starting
and
> when it does start it dies quickly.  The "Check engine" light comes on and
> goes of repeatedly.  When I check the trouble codes it either gives the
> signal for "every thing is normal" or "bad ECU."  Other symptoms are:
>     noises coming from solenoids on firewall (FPR solenoid?)
>     RPM gauge moving when engine is off
>     Factory boost gauge staying at 7, 14, 0 psi when ignition is on.
>     has fuel pressure
>     has spark at plugs
>     starts sometimes after turning over for a long time
>     When it starts it will run smooth for a few seconds then die suddenly.
>
> If it is the ECU, are there any places where I can send it to get it
fixed,
> or do I have to buy a used one?  Where would be the best place to get a
> refurbished ECU?
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Paul
> 92RT/TT

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 23:03:52 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?

This is also the case with the Eibach Pro-kit on the rear only.  The springs
are fully unloaded at full droop on my '91 VR4.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
To: "'Dg B'" <dbretton@hotmail.com>; <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Cc: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 12:06 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?

> Dennis,
>
> That is absolutely incorrect - the maximum extension of the struts can
> EASILY exceed the maximum height of the springs supplied with the GC kit.
> All you have to do is jack up the car to see this, or look at the
completed
> strut assembly with the GC installed.
>
> Chuck Willis
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dg B [SMTP:dbretton@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2001 9:07 AM
> > To: ryanp@crcwnet.com
> > Cc: team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control - how hard to install?
> >
> > Hi Ryan,
> >
> >    You are correct in your statement.  The springs are not tied to the
> > spring perches., so they cannot assist in slowing rarification (sp?) of
> > the
> > strut.  However, the springs are designed such that their max height
> > matches
> > the maximum extension that the struts may have.  That is, there should
be
> > no
> > noticible separation between the strut and the spring perches when the
> > strut
> > is fully extended.  By doing this, the action of the spring is
effectively
> >
> > "tied" to the action of the strut on compression.
> >
> > Regards,
> >    Dennis
> >
> > >From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
> > >
> > >Thanks Jeff. Very informative web page.  I think you've talked me out
of
> > >the
> > >GC system.
> > >
> > >I disagree with the idea that the stock springs might act in both
> > >directions. They are not "captured" in the context that they also work
in
> > >tension. They would have to be physically tied to the strut top and
> > bottom
> > >seats for this to happen. They are not, they just press against them.
> > Plus,
> > >I think this would be undesirable, as you want the suspension to press
> > down
> > >as far as possible and as fast as possible. Otherwise, the wheels would
> > >tend
> > >to "float" over rough terrain rather than keep contact with the ground.
> > >
> > >I didn't think it was possible to do as much to these engines as you've
> > >done. Nice job!
> > >
> > >Ryan Peterson
> > >www.crcwnet.com/~ryanp

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 15 Aug 2001 22:52:11 -0700
From: "Ken Middaugh" <kmiddaugh@ixpres.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valvoline SynPower Synthetic Brake Fluid

Geez, I go away for a week's vacation and I become so far behind with by
email!

I've used the Valvoline synthetic for a few years now.  It seems fine for
the brakes, but I'm convinced that it has not worked well for the clutch.  I
have blown two slave cylinder seals in about 13 months using this.  I'm
currently using the Ford HD Dot 3 and there is a world of difference with
the clutch.  I no longer have the difficulty of my clutch not disengaging
completely  when the clutch pedal is on the floor.  It does seem to be fine
for the brakes though for street use.

- -Ken

> I'm curious if anyone has actually tried the Valvoline SynPower Synthetic
> Brake Fluid??  It's DOT 3 and DOT 4 approved and has a 500+ degree boiling
> point.  All my Turbo Toyota Supra friends love this SynPower product.
>
> How's this Valvoline SynPower with our 3/S cars??
>
> Feedback anyone??

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 06:19:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

>> Geoff Mohler said:
>> Honestly..this is the first ive heard of this "common problem".

Who said common problem? I didn't. Read carefully. I said "weakest
link".

And Roger, I rarely have heard of our cars breaking rings or gouging
pistons (at least here stateside). The most often *major* engine
complaint I have heard of is rod bearings.

While some here would laughingly accuse our engine builders of being
morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is inherent in the design.
Don't blame our engine builders or people like me who bought a TT
used (5 yrs old and 53K miles, and had the rod bearings spin after
only owning it for 2 months and 1000 miles), and say we either can't
build an engine or don't perform proper maintenance.

I do agree (emphatically) that changing the oil often with a good
quality oil, and preventing detonation, should go a long way to
prolong the life of the bearings. I happen to change my oil (Mobil 1)
every 1000 miles or so. I felt bad when I changed it twice after 2000
miles (after driving to Ohio and Norwalk, the DSM shootout, and again
after driving back to Colorado).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 06:24:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Geoff,

Just curious. How many rod bearings have you replaced? How many
engines have you rebuilt? Are you a professional mechanic that has
been trained by the manufacturers? I just want to know whether you
are talking from personal experience (professional or amateur?) or
from what you have read or heard. You know, so I can figure out how
much weight to give your posts. For the record, my answers to the
above questions are either zero, none, or no (that is, of course, why
I seek the advice of fellow owners and professionals).

But let me get this straight from your post. Are you saying it is
better to leave worn bearings (with excess clearance) on an old crank
than putting new bearings on it and reducing the clearance? Could you
expound on that a little?

I agree that a catastrophic or traumatic event will ruin a bearing
fairly quickly. But I really think we are looking at long-term,
normal wear here in many case (just my "not-a-professional-mechanic"
opinion).

Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Mohler" <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
To: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <jeffv@1nce.com>
Cc: "Team3s Tech List" <Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:15 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

> I can tell anyone who is thinking of doing this, it's worth it.
The labor
> isn't hard at all.  Just time consuming.  Figure 6 hours or so for
the pan
> removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the RTV
> form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan.  As far as insurance
for your
> motor goes, it doesn't get better (or cheaper) than this.
- ---

Even tho the procesures to get in & outta there are rather simple,
the
process of -properly- doing this job is not.  Cleanliness, attention
to complete anal detail, and measurements (the hardest part) are
crucial. Cranks DO wear down.  After 50K miles, you cannot expect
your bearings to fit like new anymore.  I dont know if mitsu offers
different sizes, but on the Toyotas I do you have a different bearing
for every 1/10000th of crank rod & main journal size.  And IF there
was any issue..polishing the crank would be important as
well..otherwise any defects or oshter issues involved will still be
on the old crank surfaces to disturb your precious oil film layer.

I in -no- way belive that a "newer" bearing adds any more life than
staying on the "older" ones.

Something caused the failure to happen, and changing bearings every
25k will do nothing to solve the actual problem.

If a bearing is being abused..it rarely takes over 2-3K to destroy
it.
Theres no such thing as "light" abuse..because once damaged just a
little, they go downhill fast.

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:28:27 -0400
From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@schappell.com>
Subject: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.

Well after spending all night painting my calipers, bleeding the system and
installing my new wheels I ran into a problem.  On the pass. side rear wheel
two of the wheel studs will not hold torque.  I snapped one of the studs off
trying to torque the wheel down.  Has anyone replaced wheel studs before and
can it be done on the car?  Also what torque do you use for your aluminum
wheels. ( I use 90 ft.lbs. )   I have a feeling the axle shaft has to come
out and a big press will be needed but I can always hope it can be done on
the car.

Take care,

Kevin Schappell
http://kevin.schappell.com
Save money on all of your speed parts.
http://www.SpeedShoppers.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:12:18 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?

Jeff,

What sort of TLC do you think the previous owner gave your car for 53K
miles?  We've had four of these monsters with various levels of restoration
required. Mike's current car has 120K miles - he bought it at about 60K from
a meticulous fellow who always drove it fast, but not hard.   Our other cars
have 90K miles and 63K miles currently with (knock on wood) no bearing
problems.  The first car Mike had was totalled at about 75K miles if my
memory serves me.

I just can't see changing the bearings that frequently as a PM.  If you go
to that much trouble, wouldn't you pop the heads and change out the rods,
pistons and rings?

Chuck

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Lucius [SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:20 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
> >> Geoff Mohler said:
> >> Honestly..this is the first ive heard of this "common problem".
>
> Who said common problem? I didn't. Read carefully. I said "weakest
> link".
>
> And Roger, I rarely have heard of our cars breaking rings or gouging
> pistons (at least here stateside). The most often *major* engine
> complaint I have heard of is rod bearings.
>
> While some here would laughingly accuse our engine builders of being
> morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is inherent in the design.
> Don't blame our engine builders or people like me who bought a TT
> used (5 yrs old and 53K miles, and had the rod bearings spin after
> only owning it for 2 months and 1000 miles), and say we either can't
> build an engine or don't perform proper maintenance.
>
> I do agree (emphatically) that changing the oil often with a good
> quality oil, and preventing detonation, should go a long way to
> prolong the life of the bearings. I happen to change my oil (Mobil 1)
> every 1000 miles or so. I felt bad when I changed it twice after 2000
> miles (after driving to Ohio and Norwalk, the DSM shootout, and again
> after driving back to Colorado).
>
> Jeff Lucius, www.stealth316.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:57:42 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L  CIV" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Thanks for the reply Bob. I certainly follow your recommendations about
buying with CC. That's taking care off.
However, what piss me off is that I placed the order way back before they
begin remodeling. And anyhow, It that was the case they should have told me.
They didn't call or respond to my e-mails before. I know they offer good
products (pricey too!), but their customer service is bad/terrible.
If they want continue business, they need to do better.

Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 3:30 PM
To: Berrios, Victor L CIV; Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE


Hey, Victor,

Hopefully, you followed the rule for mail order or web purchasing and ONLY
paid by credit card.  If you paid by credit card, all you have to do is call
the CC company and ask them to credit your account, stating that goods were
not received and the company is unreachable.  Call the CC company NOW!

I tried calling BOZZ (510) 657-4393 , and I got a recording from August 10
that they are remodeling, so obviously, it is taking longer than they
planned, and the people who take the calls are probably not even working in
the shop until their store is finished.  I'd wait a few more days, but if
you want to get action before that, go to the web registration site
http://www.networksolutions.com/cgi-bin/whois/whois and look up the
registration info for www.bozzperformance.com .  It will give you name and
phone number of the people own BOZZ, hopefully.

Good luck!

Forrest

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:04:01 -0500
From: "Berrios, Victor L  CIV" <VLBerrios@rroads.med.navy.mil>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Hi Julian:
I ordered the Kaze Wing Type I.
But it's too late now. I want to cancell the order. As I said, I placed the
order back in MAY!!! Two weeks ago I sent them an e-mail saying I would
consider another product. I was interested in the Bozz Front Spoiler Lip.

Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
3SI No. 1201

- -----Original Message-----
From: nwlink [mailto:vlsgto@nwlink.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:05 AM
To: Berrios, Victor L CIV; team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE

Victor,

I understand how u feel. Next time, call to speak to Jerry and NOT Kenrick.
Jerry just called me last weekend and indeed that remodeling project is
killing alot of customers. I spoke to Jerry again yesterday at about
10:15am. Try calling them around that time and u should get somebody. That
male receptionist they have is a total idiot too so don't bother leaving a
message with him.

I will call Jerry for you if I have time. Does he know u as Victor then?
What did u order again?

Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com
"Caution: You are about to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"


***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:19:50 -0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.

Rich Merrit can comment.

I believe you can replace the studs without even removing the hub.  You
should be able to rotate the wheels (with the car up on jackstands and all)
so you can knock the broken stud out with a hammer - I did this accidentally
to my son's car at the track trying to loosen the rotor (twice!).  You put
the new stud in and use a lug nut to torque it into place.

BTW, 90 ft lbs is just fine.

Chuck
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Schappell [SMTP:kevin@schappell.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:28 AM
> To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
> Subject: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.
>
> Well after spending all night painting my calipers, bleeding the system
> and
> installing my new wheels I ran into a problem.  On the pass. side rear
> wheel
> two of the wheel studs will not hold torque.  I snapped one of the studs
> off
> trying to torque the wheel down.  Has anyone replaced wheel studs before
> and
> can it be done on the car?  Also what torque do you use for your aluminum
> wheels. ( I use 90 ft.lbs. )   I have a feeling the axle shaft has to come
> out and a big press will be needed but I can always hope it can be done on
> the car.
>
> Take care,
>
> Kevin Schappell
> http://kevin.schappell.com
> Save money on all of your speed parts.
> http://www.SpeedShoppers.com

***  Info:  http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V1 #579
***************************************