Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Thursday, August 16
2001 Volume 01 : Number
580
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 16 Aug 2001 07:19:20 -0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Changing wheel studs.
You should be able to get them out without
removing the hub, but you will
most likely have to remove the dust shield,
and parking brake parts, which
is no small task in itself, drum brakes are a
pain.
Wayne
At 06:28 AM 8/16/01 , Kevin Schappell
wrote:
>Has anyone replaced wheel studs before and
>can it be done
on the car? Also what torque do you use for your aluminum
>wheels. (
I use 90 ft.lbs. ) I have a feeling the axle shaft has to
come
>out and a big press will be needed but I can always hope it can be
done on
>the car.
>
>Take care,
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:28:22
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Don't buy from ... (ADMIN WARNING)
At 09:57 16.08.2001 -0500,
Berrios, Victor L CIV wrote:
>Thanks for the reply Bob. I certainly
follow your recommendations about
>buying with CC. That's taking care
off.
Guys, please ALWAYS respond to the sender offline the list for such
discussions !
Thanks
Roger for the Admins
***
Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 07:30:11
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
> Willis, Charles E.
wrote:
> What sort of TLC do you think the previous owner gave your
car
> for 53K miles?
I think the previous owner treated my
car horribly! He had no
maintenance reciepts to give me. There were "Jiffy
Lube" type
reminder stickers on the car. Every exterior body panel was
dinged,
scratched, dented, pitted, or otherwise abused. Buying
this
particular car was the worse purchase decision I have ever made on
my
nearly half a century on this planet!
Yes, I was naive, and maybe
stupid. But then, you guys woudn't have
all those marvelous how-to web pages
for fixing and modifying stuff
if I had bought a good car. :)
I
really, really believe (in my non-professional opinion) that superb
oil
maintenance will reduce the chance of rod bearing failure. I am
convinced
that the previous owner rarely changed oil and probably did
not use a
synthetic and that was the cause of my engine's failure.
For the record,
the boost control solenoid didn't work when I bought
my car and my engine
only hit 6 psi boost before the bearings failed
and for 6 months after the
rebuild. Now I routine boost to 16+ psi
and rev to 7500 - with no knock for
the most part - and I change my
Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
Jeff
Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 07:36:11
-0700
From: Wayne <
whietala@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
Bottom line is most engines
that are taken care of (which it sounds like
you do, i thought i was anal
changing oil @ 2k) should last well over 100k.
Don't get me wrong, I'm in
full agreement that bearings should be replaced
before the 600 dollar crank
gets ruined, but every 20K? Think about it, you
replace your bearings @ 200
bucks a pop (not even considering labor), every
20k, by the time you reach
my 80-100k interval, you've bought almost 2
cranks. As far as the
"professional/certified" mechanic statement, I've
seen factory trained, ASE
certified professional mechanics installing rod
caps with an impact wrench.
Time is money to them, they estimate from a
book, then do their best to get
the job done in half the allotted time.
Wayne.
At 06:19 AM 8/16/01
, Jeff Lucius wrote:
>While some here would laughingly accuse our
engine builders of being
>morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is
inherent in the design.
>
>Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:34:49
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>Mobil 1 every 1000
miles or so.
Isn't this overkill to the extreme unless you're
racing? Sounds like the
damage has already been done. Are you
also changing oil filter at every oil
change? What kind of filter are
you using?
Sean
'91 R/T TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:40:09
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Changing wheel studs.
AAt 09:19 AM 8/16/01 -0500, you
wrote:
>Rich Merrit can comment.
We replaced the front wheel studs,
not the rears, so I can't help you
there. As I recall, Kevin had problem with
a rear wheel.
Rich
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 09:48:01
-0500
From: "Willis, Charles E." <
cewillis@TexasChildrensHospital.org>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
That's the advantage of
doing track events - change the oil and filter
between each event so it's
about every two months or less! Even MobilOne
and a filter is cheaper
than bearings!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sean Winker
[SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 9:35
AM
> To: 'Jeff Lucius';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
>
>Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
>
> Isn't this overkill to the
extreme unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> damage has already
been done. Are you also changing oil filter at every
> oil
>
change? What kind of filter are you using?
>
> Sean
>
'91 R/T TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:22:29
+0200
From: Roger Gerl <
roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
I just got off the
phone with the Mitsu importer here in Swizz and and also
asked him about the
most problems with these cars within Europe.
Number 1 was tranny, output
shaft and clutch (who wonders !), 2 active
aero, 3 door locks and then
compression loss due to broken internal stuff.
Rings are the most reported
parts on this and the cause seems to be
overheating in the rear bank when
driving for a long time with high speeds.
Otherwise ABS, antenna, hatch
lock, exhaust leaks. No crank problems (only
those who lost oil) and no
bearing problems reported at all.
The same engine design is in the other
V6 cars here in Europe (3.5l and 3
liter) and none of them reported bad
bearings if the normal inspections and
oil changes have been done. He told
me that most of the problems on the V6
reported was damage due to bad oil
(left the same oil in the turbo engine
for 20k miles) low quality oil (they
tell NEVER to use dino oil in our
engines, I also used Castrol Synth from
day 1 after the rebuild and change
it every 4000 miles, no problems, almost
0 ticking). I wouldn't say that
the design is wrong or faulty at
all.
I will change the bearings only with checking and machining the
crank too
on my car. I'd be more afraid that I damage anything as I just
follow the
rule : does it run well = don't touch it
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch>And Roger, I rarely have
heard of our cars breaking rings or gouging
>pistons (at least here
stateside). The most often *major* engine
>complaint I have heard of is
rod bearings.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: 16 Aug 2001 08:39:38
-0700
From: John Monnin <
jkmonnin@altavista.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Prone to spinning bearings.
There is a similar, less technical
thread, currently running on 3si.
http://209.58.199.225/vbb/showthread.php?s=d71bb4b27327308f771f7ee3c2d8c70f&threadid=39363I
don't have a picture at work but my avatar is a close up of the bearing that I
discovered when the timing belt skipped a few teeth.
This picture of my
main bearing which whas shot after approximately 86K miles. I bought it
with 36K miles and always used Mobil-1 changed every 3000 miles. I have no
clue what the first owner did but my wife is the primary driver(ugly secret is
out) and she is very mellow when compared to me.
I worked as an
engineering Co-op student at Minster Machine designing punch presses 11 years
ago. I did a little work on analysing a bearing failure on a punch press,
now these bearings were 10 inches wide but some of the same principles
apply. The bearing should never touch the crank except at start up and
shut dowen when oil pressure is zero. When running the crank is supported
by the oil film. The amount of load the oil film can support is based on
bearing surface, oil pressure, oil volumn and the gap between crank and
bearing. Assuming an even load the bearings should have supported the
crank. What we eventually discovered was that the load on the crank was
enough to deflect the crank shaft just enough so that the gap was increased on
on end of bearing so that oil film could not support as much in that area.
The other end of the crank was now deflecting closer to the bearing and the oil
film could not support the majority load of the crank in a smaller
area.
IF the 1st gen blocks have this same problem because they are using
a cast iron crank then swithcing to the 2nd gen steel crank should reduce
deflection and reduce this problem. The problem with this theory is tht my
bearing was worn in the center. With a deflecting crank the bearing wear
should be on the edge of the bearing.
Could other people with partial
failure state what there bearings looked like? Once the bearing has spun
it is difficult to tell anything.
John Monnin
jkmonnin@altavista.com***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 12:06:17
-0400
From: Ken Stanton <
tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Spark Blowout?
What is this talk of the spark blowing out? And, if
we gap down the
plugs to prevent this, doesn't that provide less spark = less
power?
I'm doing plugs/wires soon on my car, so I'm wondering if 8.5mm wires
or
a stronger coil may be in line.
Thanks
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl
White R/T TT
Apexi AVC-R 1.0bar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 10:08:27
-0700
From: "nwlink" <
vlsgto@nwlink.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE
No Problem. Just wanted to see if
I could help.
Take Care/
Julian Huang
94 Mitsubishi Veilside
Tein TEC GTO tt
Team 3S
Seattle, Washington
vlsgto@nwlink.com"Caution: You are about
to enter a NO SPIN ZONE!"
- -----Original Message-----
From: Berrios,
Victor L CIV
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:04 AM
To:
'team3s@stealth-3000gt.st'Subject:
RE: Team3S: Don't buy from BOZZPERFORMANCE
Hi Julian:
I ordered the
Kaze Wing Type I.
But it's too late now. I want to cancell the order. As I
said, I placed the
order back in MAY!!! Two weeks ago I sent them an e-mail
saying I would
consider another product. I was interested in the Bozz Front
Spoiler Lip.
Victor
'96 Pearl White VR-4
3SI No.
1201
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:05:57
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission out
Hey everyone,
I found out the other day
my transmission has gone out and Mitsu will not
replace it ( due to being out
of the 5 year 60k warranty) My problem is the
transmission was replaced in
May of last year. Does anyone know of a way I
maybe able to fix this problem
for less than the $5000 Mitsu wants? I may be
looking to sell the car to
avoid this problem in the future.
Thanks for any
help,
Curtis
1995 Vr-4 Spyder
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 22:41:18
+0300
From: "Oleg Reznik" <
Oleg@3000gt.lv>
Subject: Team3S: Anti lag
system
Hello guys,
Anyone experiment with some kind of anti lag
system?
Today I drove Rally EVO5 - as passenger of course. The car was
equiped with
system, which change ignition in 1 or 2 cilinders in shifting
moments and
hold boost all the time. The driver can switch on/off the system
at any
point.
When the car to be at a stop, switching ON system -
REVchange to 3000-4000,
the car "shoot" and the boost going up and stop at
apr. 1.5 bar. (1.7 is
max. for this car)
The question is: can we use some
kind of anti lag systems on our cars? I
know it's very bad for turbos, in
rally they change it every year, but they
drive hard and
long.
Regards,
Oleg Reznik
3SI#0441
www.3000gt.lv*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:55:07
-0400
From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Transmission out
6 speed. I was told all the gears had gone out?
Basically when I'd put it in
gear it would fall right back to neutral. it
would stay in 3rd and 4th and
that was about it.
Curtis
1995 Vr4
Spyder
- -----Original Message-----
From: Floyd, Jim
[mailto:Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 1:56 PM
To:
Curtis McConnel
Subject: RE: Team3S: Transmission out
Automatic or
6-speed ?
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 14:11:33
-0600
From: "Floyd, Jim" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bushings, polyurethane for our suspensions
After a fun day
at the Heartland Park raceway in Topeka Kansas I
blew out the bushing in my
lower control arm.
I'm talking to Steve at 3SX about developing polyurethane
bushings
for our cars.
Does anyone know if there are any sources already
out there so he
doesn't have to reinvent the wheel
?
Jim
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 13:28:17
-0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Use cooked R4S pads on the street?
My R4S pads have about 3/16"
to 1/4" of pad left after my recent
playtime at the track - should I still
use them for the street, or should I
stick my stock pads back on and trash
the old R4Ss? The edges are cooked
and a little "crumbly," but the rest
of the surface seems ok. BTW, they
seemed to wear more at the top of the pad
than at the bottom, and the inner
and outer pads are worn about the
same.
If you think I should put the stock pads back on, should I put
my
stock rotors back on as well or leave the cryo'd ones on (which have
only
been run for about 60 street and 90 track miles with the R4S pads)?
Thanks,
- --Erik
<putting some kind of brakes back
on my VR-4 tonight so I>
<can drive to the St. Helens gathering on
Saturday>
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:33:39
-0500
From: Sean Winker <
sean.winker@chrobinson.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark Blowout?
Less spark might = less power but no spark =
no power! I wish I would have
known about blow out before I replaced my
plugs and gapped them to factory
specs. All I added was a K&N and
it would miss under stock boost. Closed
the gap to .30 and it pulls
smooth.
Sean
'91 R/T TT - Time to increase boost!
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Stanton
[mailto:tt007ken@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 11:06
To:
Team3S Stealth
Subject: Team3S: Spark Blowout?
What is this talk of
the spark blowing out? And, if we gap down the
plugs to prevent this,
doesn't that provide less spark = less power?
I'm doing plugs/wires soon on
my car, so I'm wondering if 8.5mm wires or
a stronger coil may be in
line.
Thanks
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White R/T TT
Apexi AVC-R
1.0bar
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:33:52
-0500
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transmission out
You could bring it to Cedar Rapids. The
dealer here replaced my tranny for
$3,000. There's a savings of $2,000 right
off the top.
Rich
At 03:05 PM 8/16/01 -0400, Curtis McConnel
wrote:
>Hey everyone,
>
>I found out the other day my
transmission has gone out and Mitsu will not
>replace it ( due to being
out of the 5 year 60k warranty) My problem is the
>transmission was
replaced in May of last year. Does anyone know of a way I
>maybe able to
fix this problem for less than the $5000 Mitsu wants? I may be
>looking to
sell the car to avoid this problem in the future.
>
>Thanks for any
help,
>
>Curtis
>1995 Vr-4 Spyder
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:33:04
-0500
From: "Mark Wendlandt" <
stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transmission out
Curtis,
Give Frank a call at
Kormex(
www.kormextrans.com...1-800-429-5464)
and
get some advice from him as he is very familiar with these trannys. I
know that he has some NEW(yes, new) 6spd Getrags for ~$2500 + core and could
fix yours for (possibly) less.
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
>From: Curtis McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
>To:
"'Floyd, Jim'" <
Jim_Floyd@maxtor.com>,
team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transmission out
>Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:55:07
-0400
>
>6 speed. I was told all the gears had gone out? Basically
when I'd put it
>in
>gear it would fall right back to neutral. it
would stay in 3rd and 4th and
>that was about
it.
>
>Curtis
>1995 Vr4 Spyder
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:59:20
-0500
From: "Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transmission out
>
>replace it ( due to being out of the 5 year 60k warranty) My
problem is the
>transmission was replaced in May of last year. Does anyone
know of a way I
>maybe able to fix this problem for less than the $5000
Mitsu wants? I may be
>
Kormex will swap you out a reconditioned unit
for about $2000 + core
(that's what it
was for my 5 speed, 6 speed is
probably the same). AFAIK their
reconditioned units
have the upgraded 1+2
synchros and the hardened output shaft, so it
might not be a
bad time to
upgrade at the same time. Speak to Frank Martin,
1-800-429-5464
.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 18:03:20
EDT
From:
StealthCT@aol.comSubject: Team3S:
Overheating
Have any of you with front mounted intercoolers experienced
problems with
overheating? If so did you find a fix other than
removing the FMIC (such as
a more efficient radiator or additions
fans)? Any advice or suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.
Regards Charles
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:17:39
-0500
From: "bdtrent" <
bdtrent@netzero.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
Jeff,
A main bearing
(or any plain bearing), under normal conditions, won't wear
at all.
There is no contact between the bearing and the journal. As long
as oil
pressure and contaminents are controlled, and the bearings were worn
in
properly, the crank journal runs on the oil film supported by the
plain
bearings. From what limited experience and information I have, I
find
Geoffs comments far more likely. I hope so anyway, otherwise it's
time to
look for a different car.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Lucius" <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
To:
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:24 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing
preventitive maintenance?
> Geoff,
> Just curious. How many rod
bearings have you replaced? How many
> engines have you rebuilt? Are you a
professional mechanic that has
> been trained by the manufacturers? I just
want to know whether you
> are talking from personal experience
(professional or amateur?) or
> from what you have read or heard. You
know, so I can figure out how
> much weight to give your posts. For the
record, my answers to the
> above questions are either zero, none, or no
(that is, of course, why
> I seek the advice of fellow owners and
professionals).
>
> But let me get this straight from your post. Are
you saying it is
> better to leave worn bearings (with excess clearance)
on an old crank
> than putting new bearings on it and reducing the
clearance? Could you
> expound on that a little?
>
> I agree
that a catastrophic or traumatic event will ruin a bearing
> fairly
quickly. But I really think we are looking at long-term,
> normal wear
here in many case (just my "not-a-professional-mechanic"
>
opinion).
>
> Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com>
> -----
Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Mohler" <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
>
To: "Jeff VanOrsdal" <
jeffv@1nce.com>
> Cc: "Team3s Tech
List" <
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
>
Sent: Wednesday, August 15, 2001 6:15 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod
bearing preventitive maintenance?
>
> > I can tell anyone who is
thinking of doing this, it's worth it.
> The labor
> > isn't hard
at all. Just time consuming. Figure 6 hours or so for
> the
pan
> > removal and associated work, and then another 24 hours for the
RTV
> > form-a-gasket to dry once you replace the pan. As far as
insurance
> for your
> > motor goes, it doesn't get better (or
cheaper) than this.
> ---
>
> Even tho the procesures to get
in & outta there are rather simple,
> the
> process of
-properly- doing this job is not. Cleanliness, attention
> to
complete anal detail, and measurements (the hardest part) are
> crucial.
Cranks DO wear down. After 50K miles, you cannot expect
> your
bearings to fit like new anymore. I dont know if mitsu offers
>
different sizes, but on the Toyotas I do you have a different bearing
>
for every 1/10000th of crank rod & main journal size. And IF
there
> was any issue..polishing the crank would be important as
>
well..otherwise any defects or oshter issues involved will still be
> on
the old crank surfaces to disturb your precious oil film layer.
>
>
I in -no- way belive that a "newer" bearing adds any more life than
>
staying on the "older" ones.
>
> Something caused the failure to
happen, and changing bearings every
> 25k will do nothing to solve the
actual problem.
>
> If a bearing is being abused..it rarely takes
over 2-3K to destroy
> it.
> Theres no such thing as "light"
abuse..because once damaged just a
> little, they go downhill
fast.
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:21:48
-0700
From: "Darc" <
wce@telus.net>
Subject: Team3S: heated
debates
Lads;
Not so caustic. Gentlemanly conduct remember. And, a
professional as versus
an amateur, by definition, means on the one
hand a person who takes a fee
or is paid for their service or opinion,
as versus a person who does or
renders it for the sheer love of it. So,
regardless of whether or not one
is a professional, one should
aim to adopt the passion of being an
amateur. There is a lot more living and
joy to be found in the latter. And
you can smile the quite knowing smile
of Buddha when one calls you an
amateur
;-))
Best
Darc
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 18:21:42
-0400
From: "Jason Barnhart" <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transmission out
FYI,
Last I heard, the Kormex synchros
were *not* upgrades. Rather, they are
simply synchros that Kormex made
replicating the factory design as factory
synchros are not available for
purchase. In Kormex's own words, they are
not superior in any way, just
replacements.
Jason
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
"Walton C. Gibson" <
kalla@tripoint.org>
To: "Team3s"
<
Team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 16, 2001 4:59 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission
out
> >
> >replace it ( due to being out of the 5 year 60k
warranty) My problem is
the
> >transmission was replaced in May of
last year. Does anyone know of a way
I
> >maybe able to fix this
problem for less than the $5000 Mitsu wants? I may
be
> >
>
Kormex will swap you out a reconditioned unit for about $2000 + core
>
(that's what it
> was for my 5 speed, 6 speed is probably the same). AFAIK
their
> reconditioned units
> have the upgraded 1+2 synchros and the
hardened output shaft, so it
> might not be a
> bad time to upgrade
at the same time. Speak to Frank Martin,
> 1-800-429-5464
.
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 15:52:45
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
Dunno..but I had a
bearing failure because the oil pan was dented into the
pump pickup
screen. Not anything mysterious.
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Willis,
Charles E. wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> What sort of TLC do you
think the previous owner gave your car for 53K
> miles? We've had
four of these monsters with various levels of restoration
> required.
Mike's current car has 120K miles - he bought it at about 60K from
> a
meticulous fellow who always drove it fast, but not hard. Our other
cars
> have 90K miles and 63K miles currently with (knock on wood) no
bearing
> problems. The first car Mike had was totalled at about 75K
miles if my
> memory serves me.
>
> I just can't see changing
the bearings that frequently as a PM. If you go
> to that much
trouble, wouldn't you pop the heads and change out the rods,
> pistons and
rings?
>
> Chuck
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Jeff Lucius
[SMTP:stealthman92@yahoo.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 8:20
AM
> > To:
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
> >
>
> >> Geoff Mohler said:
> > >> Honestly..this is the
first ive heard of this "common problem".
> >
> > Who said
common problem? I didn't. Read carefully. I said "weakest
> > link".
> >
> > And Roger, I rarely have heard of our cars breaking
rings or gouging
> > pistons (at least here stateside). The most often
*major* engine
> > complaint I have heard of is rod bearings.
>
>
> > While some here would laughingly accuse our engine builders
of being
> > morons (Hi Wayne), I believe the problem is inherent in
the design.
> > Don't blame our engine builders or people like me who
bought a TT
> > used (5 yrs old and 53K miles, and had the rod bearings
spin after
> > only owning it for 2 months and 1000 miles), and say we
either can't
> > build an engine or don't perform proper
maintenance.
> >
> > I do agree (emphatically) that changing
the oil often with a good
> > quality oil, and preventing detonation,
should go a long way to
> > prolong the life of the bearings. I happen
to change my oil (Mobil 1)
> > every 1000 miles or so. I felt bad when
I changed it twice after 2000
> > miles (after driving to Ohio and
Norwalk, the DSM shootout, and again
> > after driving back to
Colorado).
> >
> > Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:08:50
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
Every 1k miles is
burning money..please, just paypal it to me instead.
Lets be _reasonable_
here. 1000 miles is barely warming up the oil. Its
like washing
your hands every 10 minutes while sitting at home.
Its just not a
reasonable thing to _have_ to do.
3K is about the minumum anyone should
worry about..even racing. Now..if
youre HIGHLY modified where you see
20+psi and fuel dilution from blowby
is an issue. Every race would be a
choice if the motor was built
extremely loose to make more power..for racing
only.
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Sean Winker wrote:
> >Mobil 1
every 1000 miles or so.
>
> Isn't this overkill to the extreme
unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> damage has already been
done. Are you also changing oil filter at every oil
> change?
What kind of filter are you using?
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T
TT
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 16:15:05
-0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <
gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
I still stand on that
oil change intervals (at such extremely short
intervals, and under relatively
light "racing" conditions) is an insane
waste of money.
If porterfield
sold Mobil1 & Redline to me at $1/quart, and I sold it to
you at $5/qt
and you all were in LINE to buy it..I wouldnt even mention
that changing the
oil _that_ quick for _those_ reasons was anything short
if
misguided.
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Willis, Charles E. wrote:
>
That's the advantage of doing track events - change the oil and filter
>
between each event so it's about every two months or less! Even
MobilOne
> and a filter is cheaper than bearings!
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Sean Winker
[SMTP:sean.winker@chrobinson.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001
9:35 AM
> > To: 'Jeff Lucius';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st> >
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
> >
>
> >Mobil 1 every 1000 miles or so.
> >
> > Isn't this
overkill to the extreme unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> >
damage has already been done. Are you also changing oil filter at
every
> > oil
> > change? What kind of filter are you
using?
> >
> > Sean
> > '91 R/T TT
*New &
Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com
*
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 19:35:55
EDT
From:
NassiriC@aol.comSubject:
Team3S: RE: Rod bearing preventative maintenance?
>>He suggested
changing the rod
>>bearings every 20-30K miles. That's right. Make it
part of the
>>regular maintenance programs for our cars - like changing
trany
>>fluid. Replace them before they have a chance to ruin the
crank.
I would never take my car back to someone that suggested
this!!
Ok, finally an area I'm an expert in. I don't know the Mitsu
engine that
well, but I know just about everything there is to know about
re-building
bottom ends for hi-po motors like circle track V-8's which spin
above 8000
rpm for more then 25 minutes at a time - that's like spinning
your Mitsu
motor at 9500 rpm for almost half an hour - anybody want to try
it?
1. Bearings (rod or main) fail because of a mistake made by the
engine
builder, either in not addressing the shortcomings of the oiling
system, or
just improperly installing them. If you're changing your
bearings every 20 -
30k miles, there is something wrong. STOP, have it
checked out.
2. Properly installed and prepped bearings WILL NOT
FAIL!!!! There is always
a good reason for a bearing failure, for rod
bearings, it is usually improper
rod side clearance that leads to poor or
improper oil travel. Excessive side
clearance can actually be
considered an oil leak in many V-8 motors. If #5
and #6 are the ones
that always seem to die, chances are that not enough oil
is getting back
there. Given that all other factors check out (no oil
starvation do to
low levels, or high side loads in racing) this is probably
due to improper
side clearances, or just a poor oiling design, either way it
can be
fixed.
3. Installing rod bearings by pulling the oil pan and taking
the old ones
out and putting the new ones in is a perfect way to ENSURE that
your bearings
will only last 5 - 15K miles!!!!! This method is OK for
the family
grocery-getter that will never see a tick above 4000 rpm, but it
has no place
in a 400 hp motor that regularly spins to 7000 rpm!!!
Changing bearings 'in
the field' is like performing surgery in a septic tank
- there are sooooo
many things wrong with it! Bearings need to be
torqued and clearanced
properly, and everything needs to be painfully
CLEAN!!! Professional engine
builders don't even spray thin film oil
between the bearing and the saddle
when they are installing/clearancing
them, because even a micro fine layer of
wd-40 will throw off clearances and
torque settings. Do you ever wonder why
auto manufacturers spend
hundreds of millions of dollars on 'Clean' rooms to
assemble their
engines? And all this expense is for your average, every-day,
motor,
things get even tighter when you start talking about motors that are
putting
out 2.5 hp per cubic inch, which a lot of our motors are doing.
So
what do you do about rod bearings?
1. Make sure nothing is wrong
with the crank;
- Check for runout - has the crank been
dropped or mishandled before?
Cranks look and feel bullet proof, but
just dropping one on it's side is
enough to destroy it. Also, the
slightest nick or scratch in a bearing
journal means the crank needs to be
ground/polished.
- Magnaflux for cracks - if you've broken
parts like pistons or rods,
chances are good the crank may be damaged -
Magnafluxing is cheap insurance -
while your at it, Magnaflux your rods, if
they check out, have them
shotpeened and heat treated or cryoed if you're
really serious.
- check for correct end-play, and all
associated tolerances
- check the location of the oil
galleries for each rod journal, there is
a possibility that they are not
centered on the bearing correctly, if they
aren't, there are things a
professional crank builder can do, or you may need
a new
crank.
2. Make sure nothing is wrong with your mains, have them
align bored if
necessary. Also carefully check main bearing clearances
and torque settings.
3. Have a professional look at your
crank. There may be some shortcomings
in the design. By
chamfering oiling holes and radiusing certain parts, oil
flow can be
dramatically improved.
I know a lot of people are thinking "Hmmm, this
guy is nuts, it is easier
just to change bearings every 25000 miles".
That's kind of like saying:
"It's easier to change livers every 10
years then to stop drinking". Bearings
don't always 'spin', a lot of times
they 'seize', when this happens, you'll
have to buy and entirely new long
block, and potentially new turbos and
exhaust manifolds. Also, if a
bearing has 'spun', your crank should been
re-ground/polished, and the big
end of the rod should be resized, if you
don't do this, you should practice
apologizing to the other racers for all
the oil your 'motor grenade' just
spilled on the track.
In short, if you're pushing your motor, which most
of us are, it needs to be
seriously prepped. Blueprinting a motor may
cost a bit and generally doesn't
add much HP, but it's a lot nicer and
cheaper then collecting little engine
parts off the track. Plus a
properly prepared Mitsu motor should spin up to
8000 rpm before valve float
or head breathing become a problem, if you can
hold boost to that level,
you're talking about some serious HP gains. Side
note: Because we are
ultimately limited in power by detonation cause by
excessive boost, adding
rpm is a great way to make more HP. If you make 300
ft/lbs of torque
at 7000rpm , you get 399 hp, by holding that torque for just
another 1000
rpm, you get an added 57 HP! I would never spin my stock motor
to
those levels, but as soon as it dies, I'll rebuild it properly, and
blueprint the bottom end, and rev it to 8000 rpm all day
long.
Caveat: I've made a lot of 'blanket' statements here, and I'm
sure someone
has an anecdotal story about their Uncle Bob's friend that
rebuild a motor in
a sand storm using only chewing gum and duct-tape, and
the motor lasted
500,000 miles ….. yada yada yada. In real life,
I've spend thousands of
hours working with/reading about/and watching motors
on the track and in the
dyno cell. The one thing I've learned is that
you can pay now and enjoy your
car, or you can save your money now, worry
about your motor the whole time,
and feel like a real ass as you sit in the
passengers seat of your
girlfriends Hyundai, and watch your beloved car
being trucked down the
freeway on the back of a tow truck.
End of
Rant
Cyrus
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:30:28
-0700
From: "Andrew D. Woll" <
awoll1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
Jeez Jeff - If I can expect
my bearings to fail every 50k or so, then the
only conclusion I can make is
the engine is a piece of junk and I am going
to put my Stealth on the market
right now (since it has 112k on it now.)
My Bimmers have all gone at
least 400k with no major work except for changes
of the belts, fluids,
battery, alternator and tires. Too bad BMW doesn't
make anything that looks
as good as the Stealth, although the M3 sure as
hell goes just as fast. The
new 330ix is AWD but it still lacks the
STealths
looks.
Andy
*** Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 20:30:08
-0400
From: "Zobel, Kurt" <
KURT.ZOBEL@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
Yeah, where do you guys
live. I can use all that 'new' oil you're throwing
away!
Kurt
- -----Original Message-----
From: Geoff Mohler
[mailto:gemohler@www.speedtoys.com]
Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2001 4:09
PM
To: Sean Winker
Cc: 'Jeff Lucius';
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.stSubject:
RE: Team3S: Rod bearing preventitive maintenance?
Every 1k miles is
burning money..please, just paypal it to me instead.
Lets be _reasonable_
here. 1000 miles is barely warming up the oil. Its
like washing
your hands every 10 minutes while sitting at home.
Its just not a
reasonable thing to _have_ to do.
3K is about the minumum anyone should
worry about..even racing. Now..if
youre HIGHLY modified where you see
20+psi and fuel dilution from blowby
is an issue. Every race would be a
choice if the motor was built
extremely loose to make more power..for racing
only.
On Thu, 16 Aug 2001, Sean Winker wrote:
> >Mobil 1
every 1000 miles or so.
>
> Isn't this overkill to the extreme
unless you're racing? Sounds like the
> damage has already been
done. Are you also changing oil filter at every oil
> change?
What kind of filter are you using?
>
> Sean
> '91 R/T
TT
*New & Improved:
http://www.speedtoys.com *
***
Info:
http://www.Team3S.com/Rules.htm
***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 17:38:51
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <
stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rod bearing preventative maintenance?
Ahhh, at last the voice
of reason and experience. Thanks Cyrus for a
very educational and eloquent
"rant" as you say. I think the jist of
it is "Do it right to start with and
forget this crazy idea of
changing rod bearings mid-life". Fortunately, my
engine builder did
many of the thinks you recommended. We did not investigate
modifying
the crank for improved oil flow. We did magnuflux everything
and
either align-honed or align-bored (I forget which now) the mains.
The
bottom end was carefully balanced. Unfortunately, I do not have
the
blueprinting records. I guess all I can do now is keep the oil
clean
(even though it may mean "insane" oil change intervals as one
person
put it - I do normally only drive the car ~2000 miles a year and
it
sits for 6 months).
Thanks for your post!
Jeff Lucius,
www.stealth316.com- ----- Original
Message -----
From: <
NassiriC@aol.com>
To: <
Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent:
Thursday, August 16, 2001 5:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Rod bearing
preventative maintenance?
<snip>
Cyrus
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 21:37:41
-0500
From: "Philip V. Glazatov" <
gphilip@umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S:
Back from a drag strip
Hi all, I swore that I would not drag race when I
bought my Stealth four
months ago. But recently it started feeling somehow
wimpy and... I went to
a drag strip yesterday to verify it, clear out my
doubts and hesitations
and just to try it out. I ran my (still) stock
'95 Stealth TT with 42,000
miles on it three times. I started at about 5000
rpm last two times. Here
are my results net my reaction
times:
Run 1 Run 2 Run 3
(Run 3 G-Tech reading)
Time, sec 13.927 13.514 13.685 (14.05)
Speed, mph
95.24 99.31 98.47 (103.6)
Is this good/bad/average? I thought that it was
good for a complete stock
car until I read about some lightly modified FWD
NA's, some of these guys
run almost just as fast!
Philip
'95 R/T
TT
*** Info:
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***
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2001 18:54:04
-0700 (PDT)
From: John Christian <
jczoom_619@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transmission out
Hi Chris,
Sorry to hear of the recent
tranny failure.
Mistu does warrant a replacement tranny for one
year
or 12k. At least my Dodge dealer did for mine cause
the 60k ran
out.
Someone on the list may have a rebuilt one for
considerably less
than $5k (seems high).
Be of good cheer,
John
- --- Curtis
McConnel <
CMcConnel@Pulte.com>
wrote:
> Hey everyone,
>
> I found out the other day my
transmission has gone
> out and Mitsu will not
> replace it ( due to
being out of the 5 year 60k
> warranty) My problem is the
>
transmission was replaced in May of last year. Does
> anyone know of a way
I
> maybe able to fix this problem for less than the
> $5000 Mitsu
wants? I may be
> looking to sell the car to avoid this problem in
the
> future.
>
> Thanks for any help,
>
>
Curtis
> 1995 Vr-4 Spyder