team3s            Tuesday, August 22 2000            Volume 01 : Number 242




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:48:34 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3. Euro Spec? & 5. Boost Controller Install

> Everything is Stock, the car has never been serviced

> The dealer that I bought the car from was braging
> that the car was pushing 400HP since the previous
> owner installed some kind of a manual valve in
> which he turn up the boost.  I have heard of this
> as it is the cheapest way to make the car faster,
> but how safe was it for the car and what should I
> look for in terms of engine damage.  When you read
> further down, you will notice I want to put a boost
> controller, will I most likely have to undo what
> the previous owner did?

Doesn't sound stock to me...

However, whtatever he did to the boost control system would be between the
nipple on the rear of the Y-pipe and the wastegates of the turbos.  You
should be able to trace those lines and find "something" on there.  Probably
a bleeder valve of some sort.

How safe was it for the car?  Depends on how carefully the previous owner
adjusted it and how well he was able to resist the temptation of continually
turning it up.  If there's no aftermarket boost gauge in the car, I would be
very afraid.

> Also, the car has a ton of Japanese stickers on
> it.  The dealer said that the owner was from
> Japan and brought the car from there to the US,
> and it just wasn't worth it for him anymore to
> ship it back.  Part of this story has to be true
> since the GPS system in the car is currently
> loaded with a Japan map.  I am currently trying
> to get a US map for it.  Anyways, are all the Euro
> Spec 3000GTs with the stearing wheel on the right
> side? .. or perhaps do they all say GTO instead
> of 3000GT?  I am just trying to find out if it
> is Euro Spec or not? 

Does the rear trim panel between the taillights say "GTO" or "3000GT" on it?
If it says 3000GT then it definitely is not Japanese spec.  If it says
"GTO", that's not really a good indicator either since you can just get the
panel from Japan and slap it on any 3000GT.  GTO's from Japan should have
the steering wheel on the right-hand side of the car.  Stock Japanese (or
American, or European) GTOs/3000GT's do not come with Japanese stickers on
them, either.  ;-)

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/PRODUCTSS/gto.html

Keep in mind that "Euro-spec" means European Specification.  Japanese-spec
is different, as Japan is not part of Europe.  Most likely your car was not
destined for Japan.  It may have been shipped there from here and returned
here...  Tough to say.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:50:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

Troy,

Here are the ARC2 (old model) settings I use with 550s and 15Gs at
5500' elevation.

Low: 0 to +1 click (depending on air temp)
Mid: -7 clicks (I can't stray from this more than 1 click, even when
I was using stock injectors)
High: -2 to -4 clicks
Accel: up 1 click (0 is not enough and 2 is too much)

Moving knobs clockwise increases the mixture richness. Hope this is
helpful.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Browne, Troy E" <troy.e.browne@intel.com>
To: "'Roger Gerl'" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; "Browne, Troy E"
<troy.e.browne@intel.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help!

<snip>
My settings were -4% for low, -2% for mid, and -2% for high and accel
set to zero. 
<snip>



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:58:28 -0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

Jeff,

Wow, that sounds almost exactly what I had mine set to before I changed
it to what guy at GT PRO suggested.  Can you smell fuel when idling?
The car ran GREAT but left thin cloud of black smoke on WOT.  I found the
same thing with the accel function till I reset it to my current settings.
I assumed it was WAY rich with anything over 1 click.

From your settings it actually looks like I am still running rich.
each click is 2% and mine were.
Low: -2 clicks
Mid: -1 click
High: -1 click
accel: 0



Troy,

Here are the ARC2 (old model) settings I use with 550s and 15Gs at
5500' elevation.

Low: 0 to +1 click (depending on air temp)
Mid: -7 clicks (I can't stray from this more than 1 click, even when
I was using stock injectors)
High: -2 to -4 clicks
Accel: up 1 click (0 is not enough and 2 is too much)

Moving knobs clockwise increases the mixture richness. Hope this is
helpful.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Browne, Troy E" <troy.e.browne@intel.com>
To: "'Roger Gerl'" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>; "Browne, Troy E"
<troy.e.browne@intel.com>; <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help!

<snip>
My settings were -4% for low, -2% for mid, and -2% for high and accel
set to zero. 
<snip>



__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail - Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:09:30 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

> Wow, that sounds almost exactly what I had mine
> set to before I changed it to what guy at GT PRO
> suggested.  Can you smell fuel when idling?

> The car ran GREAT but left thin cloud of black
> smoke on WOT.  I found the same thing with the
> accel function till I reset it to my current
> settings.  I assumed it was WAY rich with
> anything over 1 click.

> From your settings it actually looks like I am
> still running rich. each click is 2% and mine
> were.
> Low: -2 clicks
> Mid: -1 click
> High: -1 click
> accel: 0

For comparison, I'm at:

Low:  +2 clicks
Mid:  -8 clicks
High: +1 click
Acc:  +3 clicks

Judging by the setting you have for Mid, you have the later revision of ARC2
than Jeff and I have, so your settings aren't going to be directly
comparable to ours, and I think you said you had larger injectors than
550cc?

My idle sucks, I can't seem to figure it out.  The car runs great at all
throttle settings other than straight idle, but it idles fine once the car
is warmed up and it can get O2 sensor readings.  I can smell gas at idle,
but lesser accel or Low values result in the car stalling at idle.

I dunno...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:54:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

Troy,
My car runs great! No fuel smell at idle. No hesitations. As Roger
said, you really need the ARM1 to tune the ARC2. With the ARM1 you
will immediately see the effects of adjusting any knob on the ARC2.
You want the ARM1 to cycle at idle, low load, and cruise. You want it
into the blue lights (rich) at mid and high load. Load being measured
by the throttle plate opening.

If I remember your previous posts, the installation shop seemed to be
confused regarding the install. The correct installation involves
tapping into the ECU wires. Hopefully they did not mess this up! The
ARM1 taps into the ECU the same way as the ARC2 - and they couldn't
figure out the ARM1 wiring???? Also, the TPS/IPS output (which is
adjustable) must be in the correct range for the ARC2. If it is not,
then the ARC2 does not know you are in an idle situation (Low and
Accel knobs). The last part that could be messed up is the connection
of the round ARC2 MAS to the "oval" air intake opening. It should go
together just fine (I had no trouble at all with it), but you may
want to check that the seal is good.

Matt,
I think your Accel is up to high.

I believe the only difference between the 1st and 2nd ARC2 models is
in the Accel function. For the original (classic?) model "0" is down
at the "6 o'clock" position with no negative settings. For the new
model, "0" is up at the "12 o'clock" position. I think the other 3
functions are the same.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:09 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

> Wow, that sounds almost exactly what I had mine
> set to before I changed it to what guy at GT PRO
> suggested.  Can you smell fuel when idling?

> The car ran GREAT but left thin cloud of black
> smoke on WOT.  I found the same thing with the
> accel function till I reset it to my current
> settings.  I assumed it was WAY rich with
> anything over 1 click.

> From your settings it actually looks like I am
> still running rich. each click is 2% and mine
> were.
> Low: -2 clicks
> Mid: -1 click
> High: -1 click
> accel: 0

For comparison, I'm at:

Low:  +2 clicks
Mid:  -8 clicks
High: +1 click
Acc:  +3 clicks

Judging by the setting you have for Mid, you have the later revision
of ARC2 than Jeff and I have, so your settings aren't going to be
directly comparable to ours, and I think you said you had larger
injectors than 550cc?

My idle sucks, I can't seem to figure it out.  The car runs great at
all throttle settings other than straight idle, but it idles fine
once the car is warmed up and it can get O2 sensor readings.  I can
smell gas at idle, but lesser accel or Low values result in the car
stalling at idle.

I dunno...

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:57:38 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

> Matt,
> I think your Accel is up to high.

Me too, but the car won't run right without it.  Won't idle, and off-idle
response is too lean.  I did find a problem where the o-ring on the fuel
pump output wasn't seated properly which was causing all sorts of tuning
headaches due to low/inconsistent fuel pressure, but after fixing that I'm
still having some idle issues.

> I believe the only difference between the 1st
> and 2nd ARC2 models is in the Accel function.
> For the original (classic?) model "0" is down
> at the "6 o'clock" position with no negative
> settings. For the new model, "0" is up at the
> "12 o'clock" position. I think the other 3
> functions are the same.

On the new one "Mid" is recalibrated to be more fine between adjustments,
and with 550cc injectors it should be set more towards "0", according to
GTPro.  Earlier models like ours are supposed to be at -14% regardless, but
my car runs better at -16%.  I dunno.....  Still tweaking I guess.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:10:26 EDT
From: MerisaPDX@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Need Airbox for 1991 Stealth

I am working on a idea that would allow cold ram air to be supplied directly
to the airbox for the 3000gt or the Dodge Stealth.   If anyone has a extra
airbox for sale please contact me  via e-mail so that I can purchase it from
you.  Should this project succeed I will share it with everyone.

Merrisa

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:29:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

Matt,

Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model change. Have you checked the
TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2 knows you are idling? TPS should
probably be below 0.5 V at idle (for the ARC2) and TPS should be
above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I remember correctly, the TPS
voltage (not resistance) can only be checked at the ECU or with a
datalogger.

Jeff Lucius

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: "'Jeff Lucius'" <stealthman92@yahoo.com>;
<Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:57 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help


> Matt,
> I think your Accel is up to high.

Me too, but the car won't run right without it.  Won't idle, and
off-idle response is too lean.  I did find a problem where the o-ring
on the fuel pump output wasn't seated properly which was causing all
sorts of tuning headaches due to low/inconsistent fuel pressure, but
after fixing that I'm still having some idle issues.

> I believe the only difference between the 1st
> and 2nd ARC2 models is in the Accel function.
> For the original (classic?) model "0" is down
> at the "6 o'clock" position with no negative
> settings. For the new model, "0" is up at the
> "12 o'clock" position. I think the other 3
> functions are the same.

On the new one "Mid" is recalibrated to be more fine between
adjustments, and with 550cc injectors it should be set more towards
"0", according to GTPro.  Earlier models like ours are supposed to be
at -14% regardless, but my car runs better at -16%.  I dunno.....
Still tweaking I guess.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 17:36:20 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

> Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model change. Have
> you checked the TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2
> knows you are idling? TPS should probably be below
> 0.5 V at idle (for the ARC2) and TPS should be
> above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I remember
> correctly, the TPS voltage (not resistance) can
> only be checked at the ECU or with a datalogger.

Yup, I set that myself to .450 but the car didn't like it.  It was very
"jerky" at low speeds so I upped it to .750v where it is happy.  With it at
.450 it seemed to be affecting the low-end fuel trim value since Accel would
affect the mixture at cruise and I had all sorts of strange behavior
off-idle.  At .750 at least the car is smooth and only idle is funky.  The
IPS closes at idle and opens slightly off-idle, so that seems fine.  ARC-2
shouldn't really care about voltage coming off the TPS since it doesn't read
it anyways, but I am getting full-range voltages off the TPS.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 15:38:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGTs with and without upgraded turbos at ? psi

Sue,

My rear manifold EGTs would hit 900ºC (1652ºF) and peak at 1000º
(1832ºF, very scary) with 15 psi boost, 15Gs, stock MAS, "stock" 380
cc/min injectors and sustained WOT running. This was an obvious lean
condition and possibly fatal had I not had forged pistons. Lowering
the boost some did not help much. After installing the ARC2 and 550
injectors, peak EGT is now around 900ºC. I did not have EGT gauges
when the car was stock with 9Bs.

850ºC (1562ºF) to 900ºC are normal peak EGTs measured a few inches
away from the ports at WOT. My cruising EGTs are usually 500-800ºC.
My coasting EGTs can go down below 500ºC (lots of hills here in
Colorado). If WOT EGTs are less than 850ºC then the mixture could be
leaned out a little. If over 900ºC then the mixture should be
richened up some.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Sue Smith" <saintsue@netzero.net>
To: "Team 3/S List" <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 10:00 PM
Subject: Team3S: EGTs with and without upgraded turbos at ? psi

I assume many people have EGT gauges.  I would like to know what kind
of EGTs people have with various boost settings and turbos on PUMP
gas.  I know Trevor said he got to 1620F @ 15psi with his 15Gs, but
isn't it possible that the fuel injector he thought might have been
bad (which caused his engine's demise) led to a lean a/f ratio, and
therefore higher than normal EGTs?  So maybe with a proper working
set of fuel injectors they would be lower than that.  Anyone?

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:14:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

You know Matt you are absolutely right. The ARC2 taps into the IPS
wire (ECU pin 67) not the TPS wire (ECU pin 64). And I have pointed
this out to Roger also. The two (IPS and TPS) are of course adjusted
together as we have to move the same sensor housing. Roger swears by
the IPS less than 0.5 and I trust him on this. I called up Split
Second (3/15/00) before I installed the ARC2 and asked them. Here is
the info they gave me. The contact's name at SplitSecond was Mark.

Accel/idle: idle is low voltage and not idle is high voltage (~5V),
with a 1.5V threshhold. My TMO reports 0.47V for my TPS (9%) and 95%
(4.75V) at WOT. here is what our ECU wants to see (from the manual).
At idle, 0.3-1.0V from TPS and 0-1V from IPS. At WOT, 4.5-5.5V from
TPS and 4V+ from IPS.

Pressure input to the ECU: 4V nominal (~1 bar). My TMO reports 3.2V
(0.8 bar).

Temp input to the ECU: 2.74 Ohm nominal to ground (about 20ºC or
68ºF). My TMO reports 1.99V or 96ºF.

Now considering that the ARC2 actually works different from what they
told me, I can only go by what works for me. On my car my IPS/TPS
settings seem to be just fine as the car works great. The settings
that work for your car may be different. The ECU really should not
care at all if the TPS is 0.45 or 0.75 as the ECU's threshhold is
1.0V, at least that's what the manual says. :)

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 4:36 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

> Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model change. Have
> you checked the TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2
> knows you are idling? TPS should probably be below
> 0.5 V at idle (for the ARC2) and TPS should be
> above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I remember
> correctly, the TPS voltage (not resistance) can
> only be checked at the ECU or with a datalogger.

Yup, I set that myself to .450 but the car didn't like it.  It was
very "jerky" at low speeds so I upped it to .750v where it is happy.
With it at .450 it seemed to be affecting the low-end fuel trim value
since Accel would affect the mixture at cruise and I had all sorts of
strange behavior off-idle.  At .750 at least the car is smooth and
only idle is funky.  The IPS closes at idle and opens slightly
off-idle, so that seems fine.  ARC-2 shouldn't really care about
voltage coming off the TPS since it doesn't read it anyways, but I am
getting full-range voltages off the TPS.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 19:17:50 EDT
From: "Justin Sciarretta" <justin_sciarretta@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Newbie Engine Problems

Hello everyone,

I have a Red 93 Stealth RT (89000 km, completely stock 5 speed) which lately
has responded strangely during full throttle.  When driving at full throttle
and shifting at high revs (5000-5500) the car responds excellently. 
However, if I am cruising and the engine is in the 2500 - 3000 RPM range and
then apply full throttle, the response is somewhat different to what I am
accustomed to.  Sometimes a pause takes place after applying full throttle,
then the engine will jump 500 to 1000 RPM, and then will continue to respond
normally.  Other times the engine will immediately jump 500 to 1000 RPM
after applying full throttle and then will seem to pause for a short time (a
second or so) and then continue to increase in RPM.  Finally, for both of
those situations, after releasing the throttle completely while in the same
gear, sometimes the engine experiences a drop of 500 - 800 RPM.  This
erratic behaviour was first noticed in 4th and more recently it has occurred
in 2nd and 3rd.

I switched fuel (used regular for 6 years, now supreme) and recently reset
my ECU, and although the frequency of the problem has decreased
considerably, it nevertheless still exists and is bothersome.

Any ideas???

Thanks

Justin

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:23:26 -0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help

Jeff and Matt,

I have the rev2 version of the ARC2 and the TPS set to .55v.  I couldn't
get it to go any lower than that.  I noticed with my original settings
(similar to Jeff's) that the car idled a little high(900rpms) and rough.
Also, with those settings the car would sometimes fall on its face when
I tried an agressive launch (3.5k rpms no clutch dump) 

When I dialed it in with the settings from GT PRO  I had TONS of low end
torque and NO problems off the line but felt restricted in the higher rpms
than it had in the past.  I was thinking of bumping the accel up to 1 or 2
and tweaking the mid and low down again but now I'll have to wait 'till
she's
out of the shop.

Hopefully that will be sooner than later. ie: something simple not busted
timing
belt or holes in the pistons.


> Thanks for he update on the ARC2 model change. Have
> you checked the TPS/IPS output to be sure the ARC2
> knows you are idling? TPS should probably be below
> 0.5 V at idle (for the ARC2) and TPS should be
> above 4.5 V at WOT (for the ECU). If I remember
> correctly, the TPS voltage (not resistance) can
> only be checked at the ECU or with a datalogger.

Yup, I set that myself to .450 but the car didn't like it.  It was very
"jerky" at low speeds so I upped it to .750v where it is happy.  With it at
.450 it seemed to be affecting the low-end fuel trim value since Accel would
affect the mixture at cruise and I had all sorts of strange behavior
off-idle.  At .750 at least the car is smooth and only idle is funky.  The
IPS closes at idle and opens slightly off-idle, so that seems fine.  ARC-2
shouldn't really care about voltage coming off the TPS since it doesn't read
it anyways, but I am getting full-range voltages off the TPS.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:55:22 -0700
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie Engine Problems

> When driving at full throttle  and shifting at high revs
> (5000-5500) the car responds excellently. 
> However, if I am cruising and the engine is in the 2500 -
> 3000 RPM range and  then apply full throttle, <...>  Sometimes
> a pause takes place after applying full throttle,  then the engine
> will jump 500 to 1000 RPM, and then will  continue to respond
> normally.  Other times the engine will immediately jump 500
> to 1000 RPM after applying full throttle and then will seem
> to pause for a short time (a second or so) and then continue
> to increase in RPM. 

It sounds to me like you may have a clutch on its way out - at high revs,
the load isn't as high, so the clutch isn't strained as much.  When you
floor it at low RPM (especially in high gears), that strains the clutch
quite a bit.  It's fine for normal driving, but as your clutch nears the end
of its life, the high-load situations will be when you notice it start to
slip.  Try this:  find your favorite hill and put it in 5th at 40mph or so.
Floor it, and see if the engine revs faster than the wheels accelerate (i.e.
your tach moves a lot faster than your speedometer).  If it does, then baby
your clutch, don't drive the car any more than you have to, and get to a
shop to have your clutch replaced as soon as possible!


> Finally, for both of  those situations, after releasing the
> throttle completely while in the same gear, sometimes the
> engine experiences a drop of 500 - 800 RPM.  This erratic
> behaviour was first noticed in 4th and more recently it has occurred
> in 2nd and 3rd.

I'm not sure what this is all about, but I suppose it could be related to a
worn clutch.  I haven't experienced that though.


> I switched fuel (used regular for 6 years, now supreme) and
> recently reset  my ECU, and although the frequency of the
> problem has decreased considerably, it nevertheless still
> exists and is bothersome.

uhhh... the RT has the DOHC engine, right?  With the 6G72 engine and 10:1
compression, you NEED premium fuel - don't use anything else!

- --Erik


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:31:16 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo/oil problem

Hello everyone....

I was trying to hunt down my 'turbo hiss' problem tonight, and pulled a
bunch of intercooler pipes to see if they were cracked, leaking at
joints, etc.  Well, when I pulled the main pipe off of the back turbo,
it was caked in oil.  It traces well down thru the right intercooler and
up to the pipe next to the dipstick.  It hasn't made it to the y-pipe or
throttle body yet, which is probably why I haven't seen smoke.

Uh... I know this is a terrible problem, but what have I found, and what
do I do??

*sob* *sob*

Thanks
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
New Getrag, K&N, Snake Eyes, plates 007KEN



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:39:15 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo/oil problem

> I was trying to hunt down my 'turbo hiss' problem
> tonight, and pulled a bunch of intercooler pipes
> to see if they were cracked, leaking at joints,
> etc.  Well, when I pulled the main pipe off of
> the back turbo, it was caked in oil.  It traces
> well down thru the right intercooler and up to the
> pipe next to the dipstick.  It hasn't made it to
> the y-pipe or throttle body yet, which is probably
> why I haven't seen smoke.

> Uh... I know this is a terrible problem, but what
> have I found, and what do I do??

Hmmm...  Check the intake side of the plumbing before the turbo to see if
oil is getting in there somehow.  I'm not sure on this one, but does the PCV
valve blow crankcase pressure into the intake before the turbos?  If it
does, it could just be a bad PCV valve and all you have to do is replace the
valve and clean out the intake/intercoolers/pipes.

If that's not the case, it might be something along the lines of a bad turbo
bearing in which case it would be a good time to consider larger turbos.
Someone on the list had a set of 9b's for sale "best offer" recently so that
could be a possibility for you.  I'd look at it as an opportunity to
upgrade, but that's me...

Not sure what the hissing sound would be, I suppose that could be a worn
bearing as well.  :-(

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 22:48:19 EDT
From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS Light

The sensors are inside the front fender wells.  They are really easy to spot
as they are bright orange with a red harness connected to them.  CAUTION:  if
you even plan on messing with them, make sure your battery is disconnected
for at least 5-10 minutes as the residual charge in the SRS system can cause
your airbag to blow.

There is no way to "reset" the sensors if they are bad.  The service manual
contains an easy procedure to tes them.  If they are bad, they'll have to be
replaced at a heft price and the system reset using a scan tool.

One thought, though.  Did your battery slowly discharge over a long period of
time?  If so, this can set a fault code in your SRS brain.  Turn the ignition
switch on and off sixty times and it may reset.  If it doesn't, then you'll
need to have the dealer reset it.

Keep us posted!

Joe 91TT

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 08:14:14 -0700
From: Richard <radanc@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery

Hi Guys,

Anyone with the Odyssey battery. which battery do you use the TC-680 or
the 925? Seems the 680 should be enough, but I am curious which one most
of you use.


Rich
92 Stealth TT

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:16:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery

I will be installing either a 680, or an extremely small 12v battery to
only start the car with.

Contemplating not having a battery at all..just another 20-30lbs I dont
need at 140mph for 60 minutes.

On Tue, 22 Aug 2000, Richard wrote:

>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Anyone with the Odyssey battery. which battery do you use the TC-680 or
> the 925? Seems the 680 should be enough, but I am curious which one most
> of you use.
>
>
> Rich
> 92 Stealth TT
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
| Get your FREE Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
|   accounts@speedtoys.com.  Include preferred name and     |
| password (hey..its free, no fancy CGI passwd thingie here |
|                plus a 40Mb quota to boot).                |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:09:25 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery

In a message dated 08/22/2000 9:14:18 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
radanc@home.com writes:
<<
 Hi Guys,
 
 Anyone with the Odyssey battery. which battery do you use the TC-680 or
 the 925? Seems the 680 should be enough, but I am curious which one most
 of you use.
 
 
 Rich
 92 Stealth TT >>

I have had the smaller Black Panther Predator for about 5 years or so in my
92 and it has been great.  Frees up lots of space and provides visibility
down to the clutch slave etc.  Get the optional hold down clamp from Predator
and generic battery hold down J bolts and it should bolt right in.

My Predator has solid brass posts which have required zero maintenance.  My
understanding is that is a Predator modification on the Odyssey. Will be
installing a Predator in my Durango soon.

Dennis Kreiter,  92 R/T

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:19:15 EDT
From: Topofwrld1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS Light

In a message dated 08/22/2000 8:50:46 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
TrboDrvr@aol.com writes:

<< One thought, though.  Did your battery slowly discharge over a long period
of
 time?  If so, this can set a fault code in your SRS brain.  Turn the
ignition
 switch on and off sixty times and it may reset.  If it doesn't, then you'll
 need to have the dealer reset it. >>

After the key off and on trick did not work, my 5 star dealer diagnosed the
SRS problem as two bad sensors or about $800.  I did not believe that BOTH
sensors would go out at the same time so I told them to just reset the light.
 They assured me it would just come back on again.  It has been about 5 years
now so I suppose it should come back on real soon now.

Dennis Kreiter   92 R/T

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:29:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS Light

If you need sensors..I have a clean garaged 95 VR4 parts car.

sensors, most of the SRS wiring 100% intact, and airbag computer as well.

On Wed, 23 Aug 2000 Topofwrld1@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 08/22/2000 8:50:46 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
> TrboDrvr@aol.com writes:
>
> << One thought, though.  Did your battery slowly discharge over a long period
> of
>  time?  If so, this can set a fault code in your SRS brain.  Turn the
> ignition
>  switch on and off sixty times and it may reset.  If it doesn't, then you'll
>  need to have the dealer reset it. >>
>
> After the key off and on trick did not work, my 5 star dealer diagnosed the
> SRS problem as two bad sensors or about $800.  I did not believe that BOTH
> sensors would go out at the same time so I told them to just reset the light.
>  They assured me it would just come back on again.  It has been about 5 years
> now so I suppose it should come back on real soon now.
>
> Dennis Kreiter   92 R/T
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



- -------------------------------------------------------------
| Get your FREE Speedtoys.com/net/org Email/WWW account at: |
|   accounts@speedtoys.com.  Include preferred name and     |
| password (hey..its free, no fancy CGI passwd thingie here |
|                plus a 40Mb quota to boot).                |
- -------------------------------------------------------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 00:34:09 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Odyssey aka Predator Battery

> Anyone with the Odyssey battery. which battery do
> you use the TC-680 or the 925? Seems the 680 should
> be enough, but I am curious which one most of you use.

I have the 680.  It has enough juice to operate the hydraulics to power the
top up/down several times with the car off and still be able to easily start
the car no problem.  The stock battery was insufficient for the task after 4
years, Predator has been great for over 1 year.  Terminals still look
brand-new and it has never come close to not starting the car right up.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #242
*********************