team3s           Wednesday, August 30 2000           Volume 01 : Number 252




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:07:59 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Opinions...Welding Center Diff ?

> What parts would be welded together???

Hmm, that looks a lot different than the DSM setup.  The DSM setup has a
large center diff section separate from the viscous coupling.  The center
diff contains a set of two spider gears which interfaces the housing of the
center diff which drives the front diff outer ring gear and a pinion gear on
the end of the rear output shaft.  They weld the spider gears to the mating
gears, effectively locking the two output shafts together.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 14:14:12 -0800
From: "Fonda, Randy" <fonda@data-io.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: My '91 Stealth runs great (as long as my foot is on t he gas)

Thanks to those who made suggestions regarding my problem. One thing that I
didn't mention is that one of the first things that I did when this all
started was to change the air filter. When I opened the box, I found that
the one that was in there had been punched in (probably by the last people
to do an oil change) and so there was definely unfiltered air flowing in. A
dirty throttle body sounds like a likely candidate.

Randy
'91 Stealth RT/TT

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Roger J. Roskam [SMTP:roger.roskam@home.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 6:57 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Re: Team3S: My '91 Stealth runs great (as long as my foot is
> on the gas)
>
> Trouble stalling at idle speeds?  I will say a big DITTO to checking the
> throttle body.  It is very easy to do yourself, and can be cleaned with a
> rag and some carburetor cleaning spray.  When at idle, the butterfly in
> the
> throttle body is closed, with only a small gap around the outside of the
> valve for air to get in (just enough for idle).  If any gunk builds up in
> there, it can cut off the air completely at zero throttle, and
> consequently
> choke the engine into stalling.
>
> Disconnect the Y pipe where it joins the intake (the big end of the Y),
> look
> into the throttle body and you will see the butterfly valve.  Wet your rag
> with the carburetor cleaning spray and wipe off the TB and butterfly.
> Then,
> make sure you secure the Y pipe back on tight, disconnect the battery
> (long
> enough to reset the computer) and fire it up.  Once the computer
> readjusts,
> it should idle just fine.
>
> I have now made this an annual routine, and my engine no longer stalls.
>
> IF this doesn't work, you can have a look at the idle adjust screw that
> controls just how much the throttle is open at idle. There is also a
> solenoid that kicks the idle speed up higher if the A/C is turned on,
> again
> to prevent stalling with the extra drag the A/C compressor places on the
> engine.  The A/C solenoid can also be adjusted.  If these aren't obvious
> adjustments, let me know and I can explain in more detail.
>
> Roger Roskam
> 91 Stealth RT/TT
>
>
>
> > My Stealth had the SAME exact problem. Only it occured after i had put a
> > new battery in and i had to keep the AC on HIGH in order to keep the car
> > running until i had it checked.
> > After some computer checks nothing was wrong. The mechanic cracked open
> > the throttle body and noticed it was FILTHY, god knows when last
> checked.
> > However he cleaned it out and my car runs GREAT.
>
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 23:25:56 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Brace

    After two years of playing around with the idea, I finally got
around to fabricating a front strut tower brace.  One of the main
reasons I did this was because everyone said it was not possible.  But
also, when looking at the strut towers, they just look like they would
flex a lot.
    This is only a prototype, so I decided to modify it so I could
measure how much flex there is during normal driving.  I have  brackets
bolted to both strut towers, however only one side of the connecting rod
is screwed to a brace (i.e. it cannot move).  I drilled out the other
side of the connecting rod so that the bracket bolt would float inside
it.  I then took clay and crammed it on the threads of the bolt.  This
way if the rod moved (i.e. the strut towers came closer together), it
would push the clay out.  After two weeks of driving, there has only
been 1/16 of an inch of movement.  I had expected a lot more.  I cannot
take corners very hard right now since I have 1/4" wheel spacers in the
front and I have not replaced the wheel studs yet.  However, the roads
around Frankfurt are very rough and I would have expected some flex.
    The next test I did was jack the front of the car off the  ground by
the front center jack point.  The strut towers spread apart 1/8 of an
inch.
    To me both of these test say that the strut towers are very well
designed and do not move.  Assuming the inward flex went from 1/16" to
1/8" of movement during hard cornering, that would bring the total
possible movement to 1/4".  So for you suspension gurus out there, is a
1/4" a lot?  I guess I was expecting about 1/2" or more.


Mike Chapleski
95 Stealth RT TT
Frankfurt, Germany


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 15:11:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Strut Tower Brace

> around Frankfurt are very rough and I would have expected some flex.
>     The next test I did was jack the front of the car off the  ground by
> the front center jack point.  The strut towers spread apart 1/8 of an
> inch.
>     To me both of these test say that the strut towers are very well
> designed and do not move.  Assuming the inward flex went from 1/16" to
> 1/8" of movement during hard cornering, that would bring the total
> possible movement to 1/4".  So for you suspension gurus out there, is a
> 1/4" a lot?  I guess I was expecting about 1/2" or more.
- ---

Hell ya!  Thats a lot of movement.

When you consider that the total amount of camber adjustment is only about
3/16" of an inch in the eccentric bolt, and movement at the top of the
strut 1/8" means that camber also changes 1/8"..thats an extreme amount of
shift.

Then you unloaded and saw MORE.  Well, as a car does "stuff" down the
road, it also load and UNloads as well..yet more feedback that a strut is
required.

Sign me up..I want one.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:33:13 -0400
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK

Hello everyone,
I was just wondering if you think that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?

Thank you!
Dusan Simovic


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:32:57 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N FIPK

If you don't live in CA, get one from Brian at GT-Pro.  I paid <$100 for it
and the only difference is that it doesn't have an "emissions" sticker.  It
works great and a sticker isn't required here in Colorado.  I think Jeff
Lucius made a note that it might actually be for a DSM but it fits
perfectly.

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Dusan R. Simovic" <dusanboy@ix.netcom.com>
To: <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 4:33 PM
Subject: Team3S: K&N FIPK


> Hello everyone,
> I was just wondering if you think that $120 is a fair price for K&N FIPK?
>
> Thank you!
> Dusan Simovic
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:36:54 EDT
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Question about BOV

    Does anyone know if the BOV from a 1st gen Eclipse
will work on a 2nd gen 3000 VR4? I remember this thread
some time back but can't remember the answer.
                            Thanks,
                             Wayne
                   '95 Pearl Yellow VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 17:42:26 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Front Strut Tower Brace

Mike:

What an excellent experiment...this is a "keeper" piece of information.
As the Scientist-Knight said in Monty Python and the Holy Grail,
"You are Wise in the Ways of Science!"
Thanks for doing and publishing it!
As to how significant it is in the scheme of things, I am not sure.  It
is certainly a real amount, so a strut brace would do something; but I
have always been skeptical of people putting strut bars on and
"totally telling the difference right away"...
Would be best to thrash it on a roadcourse at max and see what happened
there; then heavy use on rough roads (pretty much what you DID I guess).
How did you fit it around the manifold etc?  Pics?

Jack Tertadian

Mike Chapleski wrote:  [snips]

>  I fabricated a front strut tower brace.
> Strut towers look like they'd flex a lot.
>     This is a prototype; I modified it to
> measure how much flex there is during normal driving.  I have  brackets
> bolted to both strut towers; only one side of connecting rod
> is screwed to a brace (i.e. it cannot move).  I drilled out other
> side of the connecting rod so the bracket bolt would float inside.
> I put clay crammed on threads of bolt.
> If  rod moved (i.e. strut towers came closer together), it
> would push clay out.  After two weeks of driving, there's only
> 1/16 inch movement.  I expected  more.  I can't
> take corners hard right now, having 1/4" wheel spacers in
> front; not replaced wheel studs yet.  However, roads
> around Frankfurt are very rough and I expected flex.
>     The next test was jack front of car off  ground by
> front center jack point.  Strut towers spread apart 1/8 inch.
>     Both these test say strut towers are well
> designed and don't move.  Assuming inward flex went from 1/16" to
> 1/8" of movement during hard cornering, that  brings total
> possible movement to 1/4".  Suspension gurus out there:  is
> 1/4" a lot?  I was expecting about 1/2" +.
> Mike Chapleski
> 95 Stealth RT TT   Frankfurt, Germany


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 19:32:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: Matthew Hull <mh800597@oak.cats.ohiou.edu>
Subject: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

OK guys I need your Expertise fast.

Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed.  9 hours
later I
went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.  He
tells me it was
tough before. (It wasn't at all)  After pumping the clutch and two hands
of force I
could get it into gear. 

The next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped right
into gear. 
There was no easing into it.  Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
shift.  Now
after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
engaged and for the
first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it. 

The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning.  To me it
seems that
the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
on it until it is
like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.

Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
this guy
take me for more money.  I know you guys are smart and know the problem
and are
probably laughing at me right now.  Could you guys tell me what I need to
do or give
me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
overcharge
me.

Thanks,
Matt
94 Stealth R/T TT
K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:33:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

Ya..just needs adjustment.

You can do this yourself if you like..its fairly easy.

Theres a rod going from the pedal to the firewall, with a 10 or maybe a
12mm locknut on it.

Losen the nut, then use some pliers to turn that rod..that adjusts the
clutch throw.

Take ya 10-15 minutes and it'll be that much more intimate you are with
yer car *grin*

On Wed, 30 Aug 2000, Matthew Hull wrote:

> OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
>
> Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed.  9 hours
> later I
> went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.  He
> tells me it was
> tough before. (It wasn't at all)  After pumping the clutch and two hands
> of force I
> could get it into gear. 
>
> The next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped right
> into gear. 
> There was no easing into it.  Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
> shift.  Now
> after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
> engaged and for the
> first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it. 
>
> The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning.  To me it
> seems that
> the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
> on it until it is
> like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> this guy
> take me for more money.  I know you guys are smart and know the problem
> and are
> probably laughing at me right now.  Could you guys tell me what I need to
> do or give
> me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
> overcharge
> me.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
> K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 18:37:20 -0500
From: "cody" <overclck@flash.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

He has definitely adjusted it incorrectly.  Take it back - it should not
cost any more.  Show him how much play is in the pedal until very clsoe to
the floor.  Pumping the clutch???  Ouch - Have never had to do that, even in
the Ferrari I once drove...  (It was harder than hell to push the clutch in
(was the Challenge Edition), but no pumping was required...

It should jump right into gear, but should give  alittle warning.  After it
is broken in, it should slip a little easier, but it is a RPS clutch, so
don't expect it to feel like the factory clutch.  And 1 mm off the floor is
wayyy too low - do you have the service manuals???  Take them with you...
Some mechanics just don't know...

- -Cody
(and don't let them charge you a penny more... you paid for a clutch
installation whether it takes 2 hours or 10 days)

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Matthew Hull
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 6:32 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: New Clutch Problem


OK guys I need your Expertise fast.

Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed.  9 hours
later I
went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.  He
tells me it was
tough before. (It wasn't at all)  After pumping the clutch and two hands
of force I
could get it into gear.

The next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped right
into gear.
There was no easing into it.  Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
shift.  Now
after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
engaged and for the
first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it.

The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning.  To me it
seems that
the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
on it until it is
like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.

Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
this guy
take me for more money.  I know you guys are smart and know the problem
and are
probably laughing at me right now.  Could you guys tell me what I need to
do or give
me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
overcharge
me.

Thanks,
Matt
94 Stealth R/T TT
K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 19:39:39 -0400
From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question about BOV

Yes, I am running a 1G DSM BOV with the Buschur adapter on my 98 VR4 with no
problems.

Michael
98 VR4


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
[mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of TTurboAWD@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 18:37
To: Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st
Subject: Team3S: Question about BOV


    Does anyone know if the BOV from a 1st gen Eclipse
will work on a 2nd gen 3000 VR4? I remember this thread
some time back but can't remember the answer.
                            Thanks,
                             Wayne
                   '95 Pearl Yellow VR-4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 16:38:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Geoff Mohler <gemohler@www.speedtoys.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

You kidding me?

A 3rd grade job like a clutch adjustment and he cant figure out the FIRST
time?

I say DIY.

On Wed, 30 Aug 2000, cody wrote:

> He has definitely adjusted it incorrectly.  Take it back - it should not
> cost any more.  Show him how much play is in the pedal until very clsoe to
> the floor.  Pumping the clutch???  Ouch - Have never had to do that, even in
> the Ferrari I once drove...  (It was harder than hell to push the clutch in
> (was the Challenge Edition), but no pumping was required...
>
> It should jump right into gear, but should give  alittle warning.  After it
> is broken in, it should slip a little easier, but it is a RPS clutch, so
> don't expect it to feel like the factory clutch.  And 1 mm off the floor is
> wayyy too low - do you have the service manuals???  Take them with you...
> Some mechanics just don't know...
>
> -Cody
> (and don't let them charge you a penny more... you paid for a clutch
> installation whether it takes 2 hours or 10 days)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st
> [mailto:owner-team3s@stealth-3000gt.st]On Behalf Of Matthew Hull
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 6:32 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: New Clutch Problem
>
>
> OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
>
> Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed.  9 hours
> later I
> went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.  He
> tells me it was
> tough before. (It wasn't at all)  After pumping the clutch and two hands
> of force I
> could get it into gear.
>
> The next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped right
> into gear.
> There was no easing into it.  Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
> shift.  Now
> after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
> engaged and for the
> first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it.
>
> The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning.  To me it
> seems that
> the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
> on it until it is
> like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> this guy
> take me for more money.  I know you guys are smart and know the problem
> and are
> probably laughing at me right now.  Could you guys tell me what I need to
> do or give
> me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
> overcharge
> me.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
> K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>



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|                plus a 40Mb quota to boot).                |
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***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:47:39 -0400
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject: Team3S: Datalogs posted

Did not have a chance to make GIF's but the .tlg files are there for you
guys to download.  Also posted 2 runs from Hans' nitrous powered 3000GT SL.
They were logged at ATCO raceway this winter.
    Oh and Roger, I had shared with you one of my first runs a long time ago
and you commented about the airflow curve.  I think the bump in the curve
was a result of the leaking BOV, take a look, it's the first log on the
page.

My site is http://www.pacarsearch.com/stealth/tmo.htm

Take care,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
- ------------Still under construction---------------


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 22:11:29 -0400
From: Ken Stanton <tt007ken@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

I agree with everyone, there is an adjustment problem - but if he needs
to
pump the clutch and it is engaging low in the petal, that is a symptom
of air
in the master cylinder.  Be sure to check that and have it bled if
necessary... let us know what you find!

Best of luck
Ken Stanton
'91 Pearl White RT/TT
K&N, Snake Eyes, NEW RPS TURBO CLUTCH, plates 007KEN
Organizer - 3SI Rochester (NY)


Matthew Hull wrote:

> OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
>
> Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed.  9 hours
> later I
> went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.  He
> tells me it was
> tough before. (It wasn't at all)  After pumping the clutch and two hands
> of force I
> could get it into gear.
>
> The next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped right
> into gear.
> There was no easing into it.  Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
> shift.  Now
> after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
> engaged and for the
> first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it.
>
> The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning.  To me it
> seems that
> the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
> on it until it is
> like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> this guy
> take me for more money.  I know you guys are smart and know the problem
> and are
> probably laughing at me right now.  Could you guys tell me what I need to
> do or give
> me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
> overcharge
> me.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
> K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 20:27:14 -0700
From: "Bbizo" <bbizo@telisphere.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

I hate to disagree with the known experts on this board, but before you go
adjusting the clutch (which is hydraulic and was just fine before you took
it in) bleed the slave cylinder. Chances are 90% that the mechanic removed
the slave cylinder and didn't properly bleed it when he re-installed it. If
it has air in it, it will act exactly as you describe.  A hydraulic clutch
is self compensating, it doesn't really care what clutch you have or how
worn/new it is. On the other hand, these are vacuum assist clutches.
Adjusting the actuator rod can be a mess, especially since that hasn't been
touched by your mechanic.

Bob Bissonette

> OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
>
> Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed.  9 hours
> later I
> went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.  He
> tells me it was
> tough before. (It wasn't at all)  After pumping the clutch and two hands
> of force I
> could get it into gear.
>
> The next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped right
> into gear.
> There was no easing into it.  Before I had plenty of room for a nice easy
> shift.  Now
> after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
> engaged and for the
> first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it.
>
> The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning.  To me it
> seems that
> the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I push
> on it until it is
> like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
>
> Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> this guy
> take me for more money.  I know you guys are smart and know the problem
> and are
> probably laughing at me right now.  Could you guys tell me what I need to
> do or give
> me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
> overcharge
> me.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
> 94 Stealth R/T TT
> K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 22:32:02 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

> Chances are 90% that the mechanic removed
> the slave cylinder and didn't properly bleed
> it when he re-installed it. If it has air in
> it, it will act exactly as you describe.  A
> hydraulic clutch is self compensating, it
> doesn't really care what clutch you have or
> how worn/new it is. On the other hand, these
> are vacuum assist clutches.  Adjusting the
> actuator rod can be a mess, especially since
> that hasn't been touched by your mechanic.

Actually chances are 90% that the mechanic didn't* remove the slave cylinder
from the line and that the fluid inside is actually fine (or at least as
fine as it was before).  There's really no good reason to remove it from the
line unless you are going to put in fresh fluid.

The clutch is* self-compensating - to a point.  Usually when you go to a
different clutch than stock, the original adjustments aren't sufficient and
you have to dial in a little more throw on the piston to get the engagement
where you want it.  The clutch setup is essentialy the same as on the DSM
cars, and I've done more than my fair share of clutches on those - each
requiring at least some adjustment of the rod to get the pedal
travel/engagement into spec.

Could be air in the line, but the mechanic would've had to go out of his way
to get the air in there - most mechanics I've seen are too lazy to go
through that unless you specify to change the fluid.  Even then, removal of
the line isn't necessary.

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 21:36:39 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem

I agree.  You can check Jeff Lucius's page at the document we did on the
clutch replacement.  There's a pic (I think it made it in) of the slave
cylinder covered in electrical tape so that air wouldn't get in while we
changed out the clutch.  It really is a simple system.  Jeff also developed
a leak in his hydrolic clutch line and was squirting fluid out all over the
place.  There really isn't much to adjust on these things, especially if it
was working before.  My bet is that it's either air in the line (I'm a
little unsure about that one though) or the mechanic possible didn't put the
slave cylinder back together right and had let the "pin" come out.

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Bbizo" <bbizo@telisphere.com>
To: "3si" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Clutch Problem


> I hate to disagree with the known experts on this board, but before you go
> adjusting the clutch (which is hydraulic and was just fine before you took
> it in) bleed the slave cylinder. Chances are 90% that the mechanic removed
> the slave cylinder and didn't properly bleed it when he re-installed it.
If
> it has air in it, it will act exactly as you describe.  A hydraulic clutch
> is self compensating, it doesn't really care what clutch you have or how
> worn/new it is. On the other hand, these are vacuum assist clutches.
> Adjusting the actuator rod can be a mess, especially since that hasn't
been
> touched by your mechanic.
>
> Bob Bissonette
>
> > OK guys I need your Expertise fast.
> >
> > Today I took my car in to get my new RPS Turbo Clutch installed.  9
hours
> > later I
> > went to go get the car and I get in it and I can't get into gear.  He
> > tells me it was
> > tough before. (It wasn't at all)  After pumping the clutch and two hands
> > of force I
> > could get it into gear.
> >
> > The next thing I noticed was that as I released the clutch it jumped
right
> > into gear.
> > There was no easing into it.  Before I had plenty of room for a nice
easy
> > shift.  Now
> > after moving the clutch 1 millimeter off the floor it is completely
> > engaged and for the
> > first few times kept dying on me because I was not ready for it.
> >
> > The guy told me he would look at it again tomorrow morning.  To me it
> > seems that
> > the clutch pedal itself needs more adjusting, because it is limp as I
push
> > on it until it is
> > like 2 inches from the floor when it starts showing resistance.
> >
> > Ok, I leave tomorrow to see him again and I REALLY can't afford to have
> > this guy
> > take me for more money.  I know you guys are smart and know the problem
> > and are
> > probably laughing at me right now.  Could you guys tell me what I need
to
> > do or give
> > me some questions to ask so he doesn't take me as a complete fool and
> > overcharge
> > me.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Matt
> > 94 Stealth R/T TT
> > K&N air charger and a new RPS Clutch that sucks!!
> >
> >
> > ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***
> >
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2000 16:19:37 +1200
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N FIPK

The quick answer is that $120 is a fair price for a FIPK.
The Aircharger however is much cheaper but has no C.A.R.B
sticker.  You may also like to try the following discounts
for a better deal (available from CarParts).

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Curt Gendron [mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, 31 August 2000 08:07
> Subject: CarParts discounts ending soon
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> My CarParts discount codes will be ending in a few days, so
> if your thinking about ordering something, you should do it
> soon. I have codes for 1/3rd off your first $300 and $50 off
> your first $100. Some of the popular 3/S items are:
>
> K&N Aircharger (63-1000): $81.50 1/3rd off: $54.60
> K&N FIPK (57-1500): $117.95 $50 off: $67.95
> Borla TT exhaust (15443): $644.99 1/3rd off: $544.99
>
> All my discounts can be found at:
> http://www.mn3s.org/car-parts.html
>
> later,
> Curt
> http://www.mn3s.org

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Aug 2000 23:31:39 -0500
From: "Doug Garrott" <dgarrott@texas.net>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: Sick VR4

As you may recall,  my '93 VR4 sputtered and stumbled badly when I tried to
 get any boost.  Several of you suggested boost hoses and then probably the
 57,000 mile old timing belt.  I checked each very carefully and couldn't
 locate the problem.
 I took it to a San Antonio dealer for diagnosis and the 120,000 mile
 service.

 The flat bed driver tied down the car using one of the rear steering lines
 and broke it (Duh!).  Even CPAs know that you don't use rubber lines as tie
 down points.

 The problem was one of the coil packs was bad.   $300 to fix.

 In the 120,000 mile service they replaced the water pump, pulleys and
 tensioner.

 I'm glad to get my baby back,  but I'm not pleased to having to lay out 2
 large to get it.

Thanks to all of you who helped me try to avoid the dealer.

 Doug G
 '93 VR4
>


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

End of team3s V1 #252
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