team3s            Tuesday, August 22 2000            Volume 01 : Number 241




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:24:51 -0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help!

Do you or does anyone else know where this fuse is located?  I could have
the
dealer check it out first.  The air/fuel ratio was definitely leaned out.

Troy


I have a similar story that starts with a K&N, but in my case a fuse blew a
few
days after installation (apparently because I hadn't disconnected the
battery to
reset the ECU and it saw too much air) and I was dead on the side of the
road.
A simple fix, but it cost me a tow and a $195 troubleshooting visit to the
Dodge
dealer!  That's one EXPENSIVE fuse, but I'd expected worse and was happy to
shell it out and cut my losses...

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 12:33:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: jason_4369@webtv.net (Jason & Nancy)
Subject: Team3S: Flashing Light

Hello Everybody,
                         I have had my 91 Stealth ES for a year now
(with much repair work done) Now for my next problem when I make a sharp
right turn a light starts flashing on the dashboard, right above the SRS
light (Third light up all the way to the right.) At first I believed it
to be the coolant light but then I topped it off and it still flashes.
Any one know what this light is ? I have no visible leaks and the water
pump was replaced last year during my engine rebuild !! Next problem I'm
getting this load squeaking noise that almost sounds like my brakes but
they are all new. The sound seems to be coming from where the inner CV
joint enters. When I spray some WD-40 up there the noise we'll stop for
about a day. The noise is now coming from both sides?? I have had repair
shops look at my car and they said every thing looks good. Thanks for
the help in advance!

   jason_4369@webtv.net

1991 Dodge Stealth ES 24v D.O.H.C.,5-speed,126,000 miles on car 10,000
since rebuilt engine


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 10:35:29 -0600
From: "Ken Wheeler" <kenwheeler@phoenixdsl.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Flashing Light

Your flashing light that looks like a water level is most likely your washer
fluid level.  Add some windshield washer fluid and watch the flashing go
away!

Ken Wheeler
'92 RT/TT
'67 Mustang

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason & Nancy" <jason_4369@webtv.net>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Flashing Light


> Hello Everybody,
>                          I have had my 91 Stealth ES for a year now
> (with much repair work done) Now for my next problem when I make a sharp
> right turn a light starts flashing on the dashboard, right above the SRS
> light (Third light up all the way to the right.) At first I believed it
> to be the coolant light but then I topped it off and it still flashes.
> Any one know what this light is ? I have no visible leaks and the water
> pump was replaced last year during my engine rebuild !! Next problem I'm
> getting this load squeaking noise that almost sounds like my brakes but
> they are all new. The sound seems to be coming from where the inner CV
> joint enters. When I spray some WD-40 up there the noise we'll stop for
> about a day. The noise is now coming from both sides?? I have had repair
> shops look at my car and they said every thing looks good. Thanks for
> the help in advance!
>
>    jason_4369@webtv.net
>
> 1991 Dodge Stealth ES 24v D.O.H.C.,5-speed,126,000 miles on car 10,000
> since rebuilt engine
>
>
> ***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 18:37:41 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help!

>I have the GTPRO Y-pipe and HKS hard pipe kit and from the top all hoses
>looked to be in place.
>I have yet to look down by the intercoolers for a popped hose.

Yes, I'd closely look at them !

>One more thing.  I added octane boost in my last fill up.(20 miles ago) to
>reduce possibility of
>knock.

Is not enough at all. The only 1 or two point is doing not enough for our
internals !

>When I had the ARC2 installed the shop had been working on my car for 8
>weeks.  As such I was getting quite iritated and ready to get my car back.

8 weeks, taht would irritate me too. A rebuild with six new pistons takes 6
days of work here in Switzerland !

>   The mechanic had installed everything except the ARM1
>stating that I would burn up my engine if I used the thing

The biggest and most stupid thing I ever heard. The guy is a sub-zero when
he talks that kind of BS !!!! This is THE sentence taht prooves that the
guy doesn't know ANYTHING !!! Without the ARM, the ARC CANNOT be tuned in.
End of story ! Be prepared for having more damage when this guy did the
installation... oh man, I feel your pain.

>but if I wanted to leave the car a couple more days he would get to it.

The ARM is installed in 5 minutes !

>  Well,  I just took the unit home with me to
>get away from that place
>and never installed it, so to answer your question, I don't know what the
>mixture was.

You only looked at the EGT, right. May I ask where the EGT is installed,
rear or front bank, in the downpipe ?

I just wonder how you ever have been able to tune in the car properly
without knowing the mixture. You must really like to walk o nthe dark side
of the moon ;-) Let us know if only a IC pipe broke off.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 16:41:48 GMT
From: "marc augellli" <marcsaugelli@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS VS K&N

Hi,

I was hoping someone might help me.  I have a 3000GT SL 1994 and I was
wondering what is a better intake.  I have been looking at the HKS Super
Power Flow and K&N Filtercharger Injection Performance Kit (FIPK).  Are they
hard to install in the 3000GT?  I had a MR2 turbo 1991 and I had the HKS
super power flow in it.  I know it work good on my MR2 turbo, but what about
a 94 SL?  In addition, what are the pros and cons when you compare the HKS
VS the K&N?
Thanks for any help,
Marc

________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 11:48:06 -0500
From: "Jannusch, Matt" <mjannusch@marketwatch.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help!

> One more thing.  I added octane boost in my last fill up.
>(20 miles ago) to reduce possibility of knock.

Octane booster does almost nothing.  It raises the octane about 2-3 POINTS
if you put in 12-16 ounces.  That means if you started with 92 octane, you
end up with 92.3 octane.  NOT enough to be safe at 1.15 bars of boost.  If
you mix it 10% (2 gallons of the stuff in one tank) you get 94.2 octane.
20% is 96.4 octane, 30% is 98.6 octane.

> When I had the ARC2 installed the shop had been working
> on my car for 8 weeks.  As such I was getting quite
> iritated and ready to get my car back.  The mechanic
> had installed everything except the ARM1 stating that
> I would burn up my engine if I used the thing but if
> I wanted to leave the car a couple more days he would
> get to it.  Well,  I just took the unit home with me
> to get away from that place and never installed it, so
> to answer your question, I don't know what the
> mixture was.

????????????

You had no idea what the air/fuel ratio was and yet you were adjusting the
ARC2 leaner?  Ouch.  Hope your pistons are all in one piece.  92(.3) octane
fuel + 1.15 bars of boost + lean mixture = almost certain engine damage.

What shop did you have working on your car?

- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
15G's, ARC2, 550cc injectors, H2O injection, etc.

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:49:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Flashing Light

Check out the url below for the flashing light - washer fluid level.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Other_gto_manual.html

That link and over 450 more can be found on the Links page at my web
site.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jason & Nancy" <jason_4369@webtv.net>
To: <team3s@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 10:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: Flashing Light


Hello Everybody,
                         I have had my 91 Stealth ES for a year now
(with much repair work done) Now for my next problem when I make a
sharp right turn a light starts flashing on the dashboard, right
above the SRS light (Third light up all the way to the right.) At
first I believed it to be the coolant light but then I topped it off
and it still flashes. Any one know what this light is ? I have no
visible leaks and the water pump was replaced last year during my
engine rebuild !! Next problem I'm getting this load squeaking noise
that almost sounds like my brakes but they are all new. The sound
seems to be coming from where the inner CV joint enters. When I spray
some WD-40 up there the noise we'll stop for about a day. The noise
is now coming from both sides?? I have had repair shops look at my
car and they said every thing looks good. Thanks for the help in
advance!

   jason_4369@webtv.net

1991 Dodge Stealth ES 24v D.O.H.C.,5-speed,126,000 miles on car
10,000
since rebuilt engine


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 09:59:23 -0700
From: "Browne, Troy E" <troy.e.browne@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Need Help!

Roger,


I have EGT sensors on both the front and rear banks with a peak/hold on the
rear.  Also have a boost gauge with peak/hold which stated 1.15bar.

I just tuned it with my butt dyno at first but could tell I was running rich
so I called the guys at GTPRO and asked them what a good starting point for
my
mods were.  I then reset my ARC2 to those and tweaked until it felt smooth.
The car actually felt strong in the low end but almost tight or restricted
in
the upper rpms.  However, when I adjusted the higher rpm mixture the car
would
stutter on hard acceleration.  My settings were -4% for low, -2% for mid,
and -2%
for high and accel set to zero.  The octane boost was 104+ and supposed to
be 5-7
points.

I'll be installing the ARM 1 as soon as I get the car back!

Thanks Roger, Matt, and everyone else who has responded. 

I knew if there was an answer I'd find it here!


>I have the GTPRO Y-pipe and HKS hard pipe kit and from the top all hoses
>looked to be in place.
>I have yet to look down by the intercoolers for a popped hose.

Yes, I'd closely look at them !

>One more thing.  I added octane boost in my last fill up.(20 miles ago) to
>reduce possibility of
>knock.

Is not enough at all. The only 1 or two point is doing not enough for our
internals !

>When I had the ARC2 installed the shop had been working on my car for 8
>weeks.  As such I was getting quite iritated and ready to get my car back.

8 weeks, taht would irritate me too. A rebuild with six new pistons takes 6
days of work here in Switzerland !

>   The mechanic had installed everything except the ARM1
>stating that I would burn up my engine if I used the thing

The biggest and most stupid thing I ever heard. The guy is a sub-zero when
he talks that kind of BS !!!! This is THE sentence taht prooves that the
guy doesn't know ANYTHING !!! Without the ARM, the ARC CANNOT be tuned in.
End of story ! Be prepared for having more damage when this guy did the
installation... oh man, I feel your pain.

>but if I wanted to leave the car a couple more days he would get to it.

The ARM is installed in 5 minutes !

>  Well,  I just took the unit home with me to
>get away from that place
>and never installed it, so to answer your question, I don't know what the
>mixture was.

You only looked at the EGT, right. May I ask where the EGT is installed,
rear or front bank, in the downpipe ?

I just wonder how you ever have been able to tune in the car properly
without knowing the mixture. You must really like to walk o nthe dark side
of the moon ;-) Let us know if only a IC pipe broke off.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:00:51 -0400
From: Eric J Totten <spankis@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Flashing Light

I had the same problem when i made left turns. I believe thats the
windshield washer fluid light. That worked for me.
Eric
'91 ES DOHC

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:29:03 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Correction RE:Info regarding "1995 VR-4 wastegate/blow off"

" I am learning more and more now and I
appreciate everyone's time.  Sorry to be such a bother."

Hehe, no problem, and no bother (that's what we are here for right?),
it was late, I glanced at the name, and by the time I posted it, it
went from Darren to Dan :). I basically pointed out the same thing
Matt Jannusch (damn you Matt! :) did, but since I get the digest
version, I didn't know he tried to help you too.

I really wasn't trying to be mean/condescending (and said as much),
just sometimes people come in and post stuff w/o knowing fully what
they are talking about, and I usually send em to that page, it's
easier to visually see it, than me trying to type it all out... (it's
always better to know more about the car anyway!). No hard feelings!
And thanks for purchasing the CD.

19 = Fuel Purge (from the evaporative canister)
21 = Boost hose connection, should be FROM the stock bleeder solenoid
(I think)
16 = Breather hose, for PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)
17 = Vacuum hose, for the opening and closing of the BOV (blow off
valve) < This is the only hose that pressurizes/depressurizes the BOV
diaphram

These are talking about the page 427 of 1308 (15-1), in the "All Other
3000GT" manual on CD

 REGARDING=Could someone please tell me, from page 15-9 on the CD
Manual for "Air
Cleaner" what the heck items 19 (Purge hose connection) and 21 (Boost
hose
connection) are or where they go?  Also, are items 16 (Breather hose)
and 17
(Vacuum hose connection) the parts used for the turbo bypass valve
(aka BOV)
to determine the pressure difference for operation?
   In conclusion, it was mostly a misunderstanding of what the words
meant
(bypass valve instead of BOV), etc. <


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:26:00 +0200
From: Jim Matthews <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Active Exhaust RT-Turbo

Bill Miller wrote:
>
> I've found that if you just jack up the driver's side rear you have enough room to get your hand in
> around the actuator for the exhaust. I personally had another person's help so you don't have to go
> up and down for the next step. To unstick mine I would squirt it with WD40 (or any other
> penetrating oil) and have someone pull on the cable from the trunk, I'd then give it a push with a
> screw driver to pull the cable back. You just keep doing this back and forth with a squirt now and
> again and it will start moving quite nicely.

WD-40 works great for freeing up the mechanism (which I have always been able to
do by hand from underneath), and if you follow it up with a good douse of
Tri-Flow (Teflon lubricant - great stuff but stinky), it seems to stay unstuck
longer.

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:25:38 +0200
From: Jim Matthews <jim@the-matthews.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help!

A few folks asked me for details about the experience I mentioned earlier.  I
can't find my original post (summer 1997), but from what I can remember:

I installed the K&N FIPK (no other mods at the time - otherwise completely
stock).  Several days later, I was going about 40mph behind a slow truck not far
from my house in rural Maryland, downshifted into 2nd and nailed it.  This sent
a chill up my spine, not due to the usual acceleration rush, rather because the
engine completely died.  I coasted over to the shoulder with horrible thoughts
(broken timing belt?) and could not get it restarted - the engine would crank
but not fire.  I checked the MAF connector since, like many other folks on the
list, I had forgotten to reconnect it after installation and thought maybe it
had come loose (though when disconnected the car will usually fire and barely
run), but it was tight.  Everything else looked normal, so I called the closest
Dodge/Mitsu dealer (turned out to be Fitzgerald's Dodge in Frederick), requested
a flat-bed tow truck and threw in the towel.

After a tense few hours in the waiting room, the mechanic informed me that a
fuse had blown, apparently due to an anomaly with the MAF (which they thought
might need to be replaced - $$$).  They first tried replacing the fuse (which
was in the engine compartment, not the box under the dash, but I don't remember
which one exactly - ECU maybe?) but it would just blow immediately.  Once they
disconnected the MAF connector, they were able to put a new fuse in without it
blowing.  They disconnected the battery to reset the ECU, reconnected the MAF
and charged me $195 for the electrical trace (but hey, they threw in the fuses,
wasn't that nice?), and I was back on the road again!

The concensus of the list (starnet, at the time) was that by not resetting the
ECU during installation of the FIPK (which I thought was just a CYA disclaimer
by K&N), the MAF reported a reading that far exceeded what the ECU was used to
seeing, and it decided to take no chances.  Note that this problem never
resurfaced, even after installation of the AVC-R (30k miles ago now).

Troy, I hope this is your problem!

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://members.stealth-3000gt.st/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 64% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline fluids (trans, xfer, diff)
Porterfield cryo-treated rotors, RS4 pads, braided lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 171 mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:30:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: jason_4369@webtv.net (Jason & Nancy)
Subject: Team3S: SRS Light

Hello Guys & Gals,
                             Thanks for the help with the washer fluid
light ( I feel like a real idiot now!!) My next question is my SRS light
stays on. When I had my car repainted the body shop told me the only
damage done was just a minor crack under the passenger side blinker that
the car must of been bumped hard enough to set off the senor, but the
air bag is still in place. They recommend taking it to a dealer and have
the system reset. Does anybody know where the sensor(s) are? and if so
how do you reset them?


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 11:36:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help!

Jim,

What an interesting story but I think the starnet list was pulling
your leg. Reseting the ECU should not change the practical air flow
limits of its programming. Besides, the K&N does not increase air
flow, per se, it reduces the pressure loss associated with the air
filtering in front of the MAS. This just lets the turbos work easier.
Further, I find it hard to believe that Mitsu would program a chip to
start causing electrical shorts when it sees something out of the
ordinary (imagine this happening at 140 mph!). When you shifted into
2nd at 40 mph, RPM dropped to below 4500. No way at 4500 RPM to
develop too much air flow. I don't know what caused the problem, but
an unhappy ECU was probably not it. Just my 2¢.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/

- ----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Matthews" <jim@the-matthews.com>
To: "Team3S Technical Forum" <Team3S@stealth-3000gt.st>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help!


A few folks asked me for details about the experience I mentioned
earlier.  I can't find my original post (summer 1997), but from what
I can remember:

I installed the K&N FIPK (no other mods at the time - otherwise
completely stock).  Several days later, I was going about 40mph
behind a slow truck not far from my house in rural Maryland,
downshifted into 2nd and nailed it.  This sent a chill up my spine,
not due to the usual acceleration rush, rather because the engine
completely died.  I coasted over to the shoulder with horrible
thoughts (broken timing belt?) and could not get it restarted - the
engine would crank but not fire.  I checked the MAF connector since,
like many other folks on the list, I had forgotten to reconnect it
after installation and thought maybe it had come loose (though when
disconnected the car will usually fire and barely run), but it was
tight.  Everything else looked normal, so I called the closest
Dodge/Mitsu dealer (turned out to be Fitzgerald's Dodge in
Frederick), requested
a flat-bed tow truck and threw in the towel.

After a tense few hours in the waiting room, the mechanic informed me
that a fuse had blown, apparently due to an anomaly with the MAF
(which they thought might need to be replaced - $$$).  They first
tried replacing the fuse (which was in the engine compartment, not
the box under the dash, but I don't remember which one exactly - ECU
maybe?) but it would just blow immediately.  Once they disconnected
the MAF connector, they were able to put a new fuse in without it
blowing.  They disconnected the battery to reset the ECU, reconnected
the MAF and charged me $195 for the electrical trace (but hey, they
threw in the fuses, wasn't that nice?), and I was back on the road
again!

The concensus of the list (starnet, at the time) was that by not
resetting the ECU during installation of the FIPK (which I thought
was just a CYA disclaimer by K&N), the MAF reported a reading that
far exceeded what the ECU was used to seeing, and it decided to take
no chances.  Note that this problem never resurfaced, even after
installation of the AVC-R (30k miles ago now).

Troy, I hope this is your problem!

- --
Jim Matthews - Munich, Germany
mailto:jim@the-matthews.com (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://www.the-matthews.com


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Mail – Free email you can access from anywhere!
http://mail.yahoo.com/

***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:35:56 -0400
From: "Schilberg, Darren" <DSchilberg@freemarkets.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Correction RE:Info regarding "1995 VR-4 wastegate/blo w off"

No hard feelings here and hope this answers the questions others may have
been ready to ask.  I feel that some people don't ask questions because they
are afraid to have their head bit off.

I have had more than my share of Admin emails (more apologies Forrest,
Roger, Mikael, etc.) and I'm still learning and trying to remember the rules
(reply privately for off-topic posts, etc.).

Thanks again Vineet and I'm glad every problem on this list is met with the
same excitement to solving as this one has been.  Thanks to everyone for
your help and keep the list alive.

- --Flash!
dschilberg@freemarkets.com

3Si #577
1995 Black VR-4 w/ K&N FIPK and a Valentine One
http://www.ec3s.org/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi
http://www.3kgt.com <http://www.3kgt.com>  - "Car pictures" then "Readers'
4" page

- -----Original Message-----
From: Vineet Singh (3S) [mailto:stealthtt@ecanfix.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 2:29 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Correction RE:Info regarding "1995 VR-4
wastegate/blow off"

Hehe, no problem, and no bother (that's what we are here for right?),
it was late, I glanced at the name, and by the time I posted it, it
went from Darren to Dan :). I basically pointed out the same thing
Matt Jannusch (damn you Matt! :) did, but since I get the digest
version, I didn't know he tried to help you too.

No hard feelings!
And thanks for purchasing the CD.

19 = Fuel Purge (from the evaporative canister)
21 = Boost hose connection, should be FROM the stock bleeder solenoid
(I think)
16 = Breather hose, for PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation)
17 = Vacuum hose, for the opening and closing of the BOV (blow off
valve) < This is the only hose that pressurizes/depressurizes the BOV
diaphram

These are talking about the page 427 of 1308 (15-1), in the "All Other
3000GT" manual on CD

 REGARDING=Could someone please tell me, from page 15-9 on the CD
Manual for "Air
Cleaner" what the heck items 19 (Purge hose connection) and 21 (Boost
hose
connection) are or where they go?  Also, are items 16 (Breather hose)
and 17
(Vacuum hose connection) the parts used for the turbo bypass valve
(aka BOV)
to determine the pressure difference for operation?
   In conclusion, it was mostly a misunderstanding of what the words
meant
(bypass valve instead of BOV), etc. <


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 11:52:08 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff Lucius <stealthman92@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Resetting the ECU

So does anyone know what exactly is "reset" when the ECU looses
power? From my TMO datalogger, I see the three fuel trim values are
reset, but what else is? The TMO doesn't show us everything,
especially the programming part of the ECU.

Jeff Lucius, 3SI #476
Stealth 316
  --> http://www.3si.org/member-home/jlucius/





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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 14:11:23 -0500
From: "Vineet Singh (3S)" <stealthtt@ecanfix.com>
Subject: Team3S: 94 to 96 ECU swap, should be possible

Considering that both are turbo cars, the swap between the 94 to the
96 (OBD2 Loggable) ECU's should be entirely possible, provided you
purchase/fabricate and install two bungs on your exhaust for 2 more o2
sensors, customize the wiring from them to the ECU, and change CERTAIN
pins in the wiring harness.

Harness wise, the plugs will fit, but there are about 10-13 wires that
will need to be re-ordered, to put them at pins where the 96 ECU will
be able to read them. Nowhere in the manual does it mention different
voltage outputs or difference in operation, at those check points.

Actually, it seems that only 96 CALIFORNIA ECU's require the extra
o2's, but that may be wrong. If you want to try it, I will help!

For more information, print out the pages from the "all other
3000gt's" ENGINE section, 384 thru 389 of 1308 from the CD manual, or
if you have the just the 92-96 Mitsu manual, pages 13A-280 to 13A-285.

Actually, go here, http://www.ecanfix.com/~manualcd/gift/ and download
the 94-96_3s_ecu.pdf file, it's just those pages.

Vineet Singh
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
http://chi.dsm.org - "ChicagoDSM - Go Fast With Class!"
http://manualcd.dsm.org - DSM & 3/S Service manuals on CDROM

RE:Would there be any problems with swapping my ecu in my 94 VR4 with
a 96 or
newer so that I can datalog? Other than the possibility of a couple
pin swaps?

94 3000 VR4
http://hometown.aol.com/cometothezoo/
Mike Murray<


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:59:47 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Help!

Working on the car WITHOUT disconnecting the battery is always very
dangerous. Even unplugging and replugging the MAS with the batt attached MAY
cause damage to the MAS.

> The concensus of the list (starnet, at the time) was that by not resetting
the
> ECU during installation of the FIPK (which I thought was just a CYA
disclaimer
> by K&N), the MAF reported a reading that far exceeded what the ECU was
used to
> seeing, and it decided to take no chances.  Note that this problem never
> resurfaced, even after installation of the AVC-R (30k miles ago now).

Nono, the MAS reading doesn't alter that much. Resetting the ECU is ok to
initiate the learning. Otherwise it would take longer until the fuel map is
recognized to another value o nthe load and rpm basis. Often people exchange
their dirty old filter with a FIPK and report a huge gain then after
resettign the ECU. Sure, as there is now a new open filter element that
helps to breath better :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
www.rtec.ch



***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 13:08:09 -0600
From: "Jon Bach" <bach@rt66.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Resetting the ECU

I have noticed the same thing with my friend's TMO datalogger for our cars.
I know that resetting it makes the car have to "re-learn" the type of fuel
you're using (great for optimizing your car's usage of race gas), but I'm
not sure what else. Mainly I noticed somtimes cars just have their check
engine light stay solid and resetting the ECU will remedy that problem as
well.

Jon Bach
1991 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
Albuquerque

> So does anyone know what exactly is "reset" when the ECU looses
> power? From my TMO datalogger, I see the three fuel trim values are
> reset, but what else is? The TMO doesn't show us everything,
> especially the programming part of the ECU.




***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 21:03:16 +0200
From: "Roger Gerl \(RTEC\)" <roger.gerl@bluewin.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Resetting the ECU

So does anyone know what exactly is "reset" when the ECU looses
power? From my TMO datalogger, I see the three fuel trim values are
reset, but what else is? The TMO doesn't show us everything,
especially the programming part of the ECU.

Yes, you got it as the fuel trim values are the key for the value determined
on the fuel map. But also the ignition value (an offset that was learned due
to the amount of retard that has been initiated) and the codes are reset
then.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


***  Info:  http://www.stealth-3000gt.st/Team3S-Rules.htm  ***

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Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2000 20:21:33 GMT
From: aa2345@wayne.edu
Subject: Team3S: 1.Trans prob & 2. new member & 3. Euro Spec? & 4. Warranty $ & 5. Boost Controller Install

Hey guys,

I apologize in advance for the uper long message, but I hope I categorized it
enough to make it easy enough to answer just specific parts.  Thanks in advance.

I have 5 main topics to discuss with you:

1.  Transmission Problem: 94 Yellow TT

2.  New member to the family: 95 Red VR-4

3.  Concernes about the new VR-4: Euro Spec?

4.  Warranty Pricing on 94 TT or 95 VR-4

5.  Need help installing: APEXI Boost Contr, K&N Airfilter, Boost Gauge, EGT Gau

6.  Conclusion

==========================================================================
1.  Transmission Problem: 94 Yellow TT

About 10 days or so ago, I wrote you guys about my brothers 94 Yellow TT
transmission was making funny metal to metal grinding noise.  The car now has
66K miles, however, at 53K miles, it had a brand new transmission under
warranty.  However, the car came out of warranty shortly after the fix, which
means that right now the car has no warranty.  I have good news!!!  The dealer
did not hesitate at all on replacing the transmission again at no cost.  My
brother should have it back in about 10 days (hopefully).   


==========================================================================
2.  New member to the family: 95 Red VR-4

This past weekend, I finally retired my 93 Red Base Stealth and gave it to my
mom, and bought a 95 Red 3000GT VR-4.  Here are some of the specs:

95 3000GT VR-4
Red Exterior / Black Interior (Leather)
31500 miles
Everything is Stock, the car has never been serviced
Tinted windows
Mfg. Sunroof
Indash Global Positioning System (GPS)
Indash CD/DVD/TV
Stock 6 Disc CD-Changer
4 year / 48 month bumper to bumper Warranty

Anyhow, the car is spotless, not a single ding or scratch on the whole car.


==========================================================================
3.  Concernes about the new VR-4

The dealer that I bought the car from was braging that the car was pushing
400HP since the previous owner installed some kind of a manual valve in which
he turn up the boost.  I have heard of this as it is the cheapest way to make
the car faster, but how safe was it for the car and what should I look for in
terms of engine damage.  When you read further down, you will notice I want to
put a boost controller, will I most likely have to undo what the previous owner
did?  Also, the car has a ton of Japanese stickers on it.  The dealer said that
the owner was from Japan and brought the car from there to the US, and it just
wasn't worth it for him anymore to ship it back.  Part of this story has to be
true since the GPS system in the car is currently loaded with a Japan map.  I
am currently trying to get a US map for it.  Anyways, are all the Euro Spec
3000GTs with the stearing wheel on the right side? .. or perhaps do they all
say GTO instead of 3000GT?  I am just trying to find out if it is Euro Spec or
not? 


==========================================================================
4.  Warranty Pricing

I feel like I got jipped on the warranty that I just bought on the vehicle from
the dealer.  It is a bumper to bumper warranty with a $100 deductible covering
48 months or 48K miles, and it cost me a total of about $3100.  To me, that
sounds outrageous, but I bought anyway for the safety untill I find another
one.  The old one is fully refundable if I ever find a better deal.  What have
you guys found on warranties.  I think my brother also wants to get an extended
warranty on his Yellow 94 TT, as soon as he gets his trans fixed.  His car has
66K miles.    


==========================================================================
5.  APEXI A-VCR Boost Controller, K&N Airfilter, Boost Gauge, EGT Gauge Install

My brother bought all these parts about 2 weeks ago, after which he had the
transmission problem.  Anyways, as soon as his car is fixed, he will be ready
to install them, however, we are not technical enough to do the whole install
our own.  Since I just upgraded to the VR-4 from the base Stealth, I am ready
to upgrade the car to all the toys that my brother just bought.  I am sure I
can get all the parts by the time his car is fixed.  We live in the Metro
Detroit Area, and we were wondering if anyone who has already installed these
toys on their own cars is willing to help us.  We can drive to whomever is
willing to help and we can even pay whomever for their time, but we just want
to do it right.  On top of everything, I also bought a G-TECH Pro in order to
see what improvements all these mods will do to the car.  


==========================================================================
6.  Conclusion

I apologize for the super long message, but I just had a lot to say, and I want
to thank everybody in advance for all the help. 



Mike Raicu
95 Red VR-4

John Raicu
94 Yellow TT

Margareta Raicu (my mom)
93 Red Base
Stealth


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Wayne State University Library System
Content does not represent the views of WSU.
http://www.lib.wayne.edu/



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