--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #324
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
November 2 1999 Volume 01 : Number
324
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 31 Oct 1999 23:43:18 CST
From: "Curt Gendron" <
curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: cure for hooting intake resonance?
Hey Jim,
I have the
1G DSM BOV on my 95 R/T TT, and it gets rid of the honking goose
for
good. I've had the DSM BOV on for a month now with no goose honking.
It will also NOT hit the shift linkage if you turn the BOV a little bit,
instead of having it straight up and down. I was worried about this
when I
installed it.
Basiclly the 1G DSM BOV does the exact same
thing as the stock BOV, but
there is NO leaking, NO honking, NO stumbling,
and NO shift linkage
problems. One note though. The adapter for
the 1G DSM BOV is the same
adapter they sell for the 2G Eclipse.
Buscher usually has them in stock.
Other DSM shops sell them
too.
The 1G DSM BOV is a very nice and sturdy unit. It is all
metal. When you
look at it you'll scratch your head and say, "why
the hell didn't Mitsubishi
put one of these in our
cars?"
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org>From:
Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
>To:
Team 3S Tech List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Team3S: cure for hooting intake resonance?
>Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999
09:38:49 +0100
>
>
>Those of you who eliminated the hooting
intake resonance with a 1st gen
>DSM BPV... has this been a permanent
cure? Any interference problem
>with the shift linkage on the
6-speeds? And is buying from Buschur the
>way to
go?
>
>Thanx.
-Jim
>
______________________________________________________
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Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 04:04:26 EST
From:
Gr8crash@aol.comSubject: Team3S: anyone
have pics
i need some pics so i cna do more research on my VR4 swap, does
anyone on
here have any pics, like detail pics of the engine, tranny,
it's mounts, the
differential, the rear and how it mounts? and are there any
differences
between the stealth r/t and 3000gt? thanx for the help, i know
it's an odd
request, but the help would be great thanx.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 02:23:45 -0800
From: "Nav Moondi" <
moondin@megahits.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Las Vegas Gatherings - Hotels, etc.
Howdy Ho..
Okay, so
far we have Me, Monica, Courtney, John and AJ tagged to split a
room.
If there are others, please email me asap!
Friday evening, we will all
connect at the Hard Rock Cafe at 8pm. Where in
the Hard Rock? I
don't know. Quincy?
Saturday, we will meet at the MGM Grand at 10am
at the Wizard of Oz big
circle exhibit. There is a wide list of things
to do Friday and Saturday,
and we will
probably all vote and decide
on the activities once we meet Friday.
If you haven't registered, or need
more info on the Vegas gathering (Nov.
5th, 6th, 7th), the url is:
http://www.goline.com/mmercy/nav/wcg.htmLos
Angeles caravan will be Friday in case there's enough interest.
Leaving
at
2pm SHARP!
Everything is still set and planned!. I'm going to do
one more advertising
push. If you're flying and haven't booked your
flights, do so asap!! This,
the last gathering of the century, is gonna
be a blast!
-= nav =-
"Look into my eyes...now give me my
prescription."
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Nov 1999 07:52 -0600
From: Jeff A Williamson <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject:
Team3S: re: Seatbelt
>Well, it's almost 7 years old, so my 93
Stealth's seatbelt retractor
>thingies are well worn out, is there a
simple fix(like WD40-ing it?) and
>if so how do i get behind the plastic
panel to get at it?
>Or is it time to drag out the almost expired
extended warranty and fuss
>with the dodge
dealer?
>TIA.
>- --Rich
This has happened 3 times in the
life of my '92 VR4. The first time was before
the car was two years old,
with 22K miles on it. The dealer covered it under
the factory warranty. The
second time happend at 6 years and 97K miles. The
dealer also covered this
under factory warranty. The last time happend 11
months later at 105K miles,
and the dealer covered this one because the last
one lasted less than a
year. In all 3 cases, there was no hassle with the
dealer to fix it, and no
money out of my pocket.
All 3 times they had to remove the plastic wall
behind on the driver's seat
side to get at the retractor mechanism. They
replaced the entire seat belt unit
(retractor, belt, hook, etc.) each time.
It sounds to me like there is a design
flaw in the retractor mechanism (a
spring or something), and Mitsubishi knows
about it!
Jeff
Williamson
Belleville, MI
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 16:32:32 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel
pump voltage
Hi,
We have talked about fuel pumps and how much they
deliver and how much they
cost many times before but as far as I can
remember, we have never talked
about how flow differs with Voltage at the
pump.
If you measure the available voltage at the battery with the engine
running
you should see 13.5-14 volts or so. If you then measure the voltage
at the
pump itself with the engine running it will be around 11.9 v and with
the
fuel pressure regulator loaded with boost pressure the voltage drops to
11.8
v. Please note that I haven't measured these figures on a 3000gt,
these
figures are from an Eclipse. But I expect the figures to be equal on
our
cars.
This is two example how a fuel pump (NOT OUR PUMP) performs
at different
Voltage (and PSI)
150 lph @43psi @12v (120 lph @58psi
@12v)
210 lph @43psi @14v (170 lph @58psi @14v)
260 lph @43psi
@12v (220 lph @58psi @12v)
290 lph @43psi @14v (260 lph @58psi
@14v)
150 lph compared to 210 lph can be the difference of success or
failure.
Here's what I think is the solution:
New larger (how large?)
wires direct from the battery to the fuel pump. This
wire must be fused (how
many amp?) and connected to a relay. If we put the
relay close to the pump, I
guess we can use the old fuel pump voltage wire
to trigger the new
relay.
Is this a good idea???
BTW this also speaks against any
kind of under drive pulley I guess..
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Nov 1999 07:58:53 -0800
From: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
jtabler@summitmicro.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Defroster vents
Hi All,
The defroster vents on my 92 VR4
are cracked. It looks like it might be
difficult to replace them,
perhaps involving the removal of the
windshield.
Has anyone had any
experience replacing these? If so, can you offer
any
advice?
JAT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 11:38:46 EST
From:
Muratokcu@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Defroster vents
they all crack near the left edge, replacement is
futile
I think it is just push on.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Nov 1999 11:50:52 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Defroster vents
Dr. John A. Tabler wrote:
>
> Hi
All,
>
> The defroster vents on my 92 VR4 are cracked. It
looks like it might be
> difficult to replace them, perhaps involving the
removal of the
> windshield.
> Has anyone had any experience
replacing these? If so, can you offer any
> advice?
>
>
JAT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmActaully,
they are held in place by 2 screws....under the dashboard. You
will have to
remove the dash to get to them. Mine were cracked when I
bought the car, and
I made it a condition of the sale that they replace
them. They weren't too
happy about having to pull the dash to do the
work. Good
luck!
Matt
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Nov 1999 10:33:06 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New A'PEXi SAVC-R installation
Hi Jim,
Nice of you to
help your buddy out...
snip
> The biggest time-waster for us was
attempting to replace the stock 4-way
> hose junction above the rear turbo
with a 3-way tee included in the
> kit. After fighting to remove the
wastegate hoses and pulling up the
> 4-way junction, we found that
A'PEXi's 3-way tee had nipples too small
> for the stock hoses. So
we returned the stock junction and simply
> plugged the hose that used to
connect to the stock solonoid. Had we
> done this right off the bat
it would have made life much easier!
My kit had a small tee and it fit
fine. My '91 had small 1/8" inside diameter
hoses just about
everywhere though.
snip
> scramble switch so the orange wire was
left unused. We also decided to
> connect to IDC rather than RPM on
the ECU.
I've mentioned in several posts before (maybe that was to the
starnet list
though) that there will be problems connecting to the IDC wire
only. When IDC
maxes at 100%, the Apexi won't know the true RPM.
Learning will cease at any
RPM higher than when 100% IDC is attained.
Any display with RPM starts
generating bogus points on graphs or bogus
digital readouts.
I recommend connecting the "purple" wire to a
2-way toggle switch. Then connect
1 side to the RPM wire, the other to
IDC. That way you can leave the switch
normally on RPM, but switch over
to IDC whenever you want to monitor that.
Why Apexi just didn't provide
one wire for each :( I'll never know.
snip
> Initial settings were
.85 bar @ 50 BADC, which resulted in an overboost
> to 1.2 bar!
Yikes! Didn't feel like 1.2 bars, so I guess his knock
> sensor
works! :-| Backed it off to 35 BADC and it wouldn't peak
over
> .80 bar. Ended up with .95 bar @ 45 BADC... quite different
from my .95
> bar @ 72 BADC! Can't explain that one, since the
solonoids look
> identical. Momentary overboost to 1.05 is slightly
higher than my
> 1.02-03.
The new Apexi is remarkable. It
"learns" different duty values for each
different RPM range every
500 RPM. Typically, my minimum duty setting (around
3500 RPM) is about
47% for 1.0 kg/cm^2, but up to 76% at 5500 RPM for 1.0. When
set up
correctly, the entered duty value is just the starting point. The
Apexi
will learn actual settings required to maintain specified boost.
Also, the
intial duty setting MUST be low enough so you don't
overshoot. The Apexi won't
learn when boost overshoots specified
setting.
For max boost of 1.05 (I set boost at 1.0 with a bump to
1.05 between
4000-5000RPM), I usually set my initial duty setting to
40%. Then I make 3-6
WOT accels from 2K to redline. Then I turn
2nd gear learn off and allow 3rd
gear to "maintain" duty
settings.
Wish your friend good luck for me,
Ken
- --
I'm just
driving this way to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 14:00:50 -0500
From: "Kevin Volkan" <
kevin@3si.zzn.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: xfer case oil check
I just checked the trans case on my 92
vr4 and it seemed to only have drain and fill holes. What gives?
- ----
Begin Original Message ----
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Sent: Sat, 23 Oct
1999 11:06:19 -0500
To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: xfer case oil check
I believe the 1991 models had only 2
access holes: the drain hole, and one fill hole.
The level was supposed to be
set a bit BELOW the fill hole, a difficult thing to do.
The 1992+ had 3
holes: drain, fill, and CHECK on the driverside faceplate (a 14mm
bolt
head);
fill till runs out the check hole.
1994+ 6 speed (cast
iron) xfer cases again have 2 holes: drain, and fill;
fill to the lower edge
of hole.
Jack Tertadian
Curt Gendron wrote:
> The
picture in the newer manuals are incorrect for the transfer case. The
>
picture they show is the 91-93 transfer case. They have three plugs. The
>
94+ iron transfer cases only have two plugs, drain and fill/check.
>
Curt
>
> >Then I moved on to the xfer case. My manual shows a
drain bolt
> >(bottom), fill bolt (front) and inspection bolt (side),
but I could not
> >find the inspection bolt. Was it eliminated with the
2nd gen xfer
> >cases? I have the '94 shop manual but perhaps it wasn't
updated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm-
---- End Original Message ----
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http://www.3si.org
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Date:
Mon, 01 Nov 1999 20:43:16 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump voltage
> We have talked about fuel pumps and how
much they deliver and how much they
> cost many times before but as far as
I can remember, we have never talked
> about how flow differs with Voltage
at the pump.
A well known discussion on the DSM list :)
>
Please note that I haven't measured these figures on a 3000gt, these
>
figures are from an Eclipse. But I expect the figures to be equal on our
>
cars.
>
> This is two example how a fuel pump (NOT OUR PUMP)
performs at different
> Voltage (and PSI)
> 150 lph @43psi
@12v (120 lph @58psi @12v)
> 210 lph @43psi @14v (170 lph
@58psi @14v)
>
> 260 lph @43psi @12v (220 lph @58psi
@12v)
> 290 lph @43psi @14v (260 lph @58psi @14v)
Our pump is
rated to 190 lph@ 40psi (this is where the pumps are measured)
@
12V.
> 150 lph compared to 210 lph can be the difference of
success or failure.
At 15-17psi of boost fuel pressure is rised up to 60
psi. Our pump flows 125
lph@ 58psi at 12V. Of course the more the power to
the pump the better the flow
but you must also consider the larger
temperature the pump is producing. But I
guess 14V are not a problem.
Kenne-Bells Boost-A-Pump is a good device that
increases the voltage to the
pump when it is needed.
> Here's what I think is the solution:
>
New larger (how large?) wires direct from the battery to the fuel pump.
This
> wire must be fused (how many amp?) and connected to a relay. If we
put the
> relay close to the pump, I guess we can use the old fuel pump
voltage wire
> to trigger the new relay.
Sure, why not. But you may
short the pump relay that switches the voltage. The
larger pump I have is not
hearable unless the relay switches and it runs on
battery voltage. The sound
is like a whining in the rear but not a big problem.
People say that the
Denso pumps are less noisier than the Walbros and therefore
a Walbro pump
running at 14V when cruising around would be very annoying :(
> Is
this a good idea???
Sure, I've done this on the Camaro as it was easy but
the connector on the 3S is
not that great. I even think that the voltage
should be also checked at the
front relay. Maybe just running larger, or
better wires from this relay to the
pump will help.
> BTW this also
speaks against any kind of under drive pulley I guess..
Yep
:-)
Some more calc : Theoretically, at 17 psi with all the fuel needed to
cool the
chamber to prevent knock, a fuel flow of around 200 lph@58psi is
needed. If we
would say that 14V increases the flow from 125 lph to 175 lph
... it's still not
enough for 17 psi :-( Therefore, bigger pump is a must and
then, maybe the power
is not that important anymore.
Just my 2 cents
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 18:40:28 -0500
From: "Pete Ryner" <
pryner@ij.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Defroster vents
The vents in my '91 cracked this year. The book
shows that they press into
place, but when I tried to pry one off, I found a
screw head on one end. I
quit at that point. As I saw posted
earlier, they are held in by at least
two screws, requiring a lot of work to
replace. I didn't want the immense
trouble of disassembly and
possibility of squeaks, so I super glued the vent
down. The crack is
still there, but hardly noticeable. Recommend you find
a super glue
injector such as a hypodermic needle to put the glue in place.
I used a tube
with a long tip, but still ended up with a small bit of glue
on the
windshield. Hold in place for a longer time than the
tube
recommends. The first two times didn't hold until I kept it in
place for
about 5 minutes. The second crack (other end) was repaired
the first time
by holding in place with a phone book for about 10
minutes. Just watch the
glue, it gets everywhere!
Pete
'91
VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dr. John A. Tabler
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 10:59 AM
To:
3000GT
Subject: Team3S: Defroster vents
Hi All,
The defroster
vents on my 92 VR4 are cracked. It looks like it might be
difficult to
replace them, perhaps involving the removal of the
windshield.
Has anyone
had any experience replacing these? If so, can you offer
any
advice?
JAT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 18:32:50 -0500
From: "Eddie" <
stealth3@superservers.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Changing plugs
Hello,
I am getting ready to
change my plugs, I plan to run 14-15psi of boost
on my 92 Stealth R/T -
TT
I would like to make sure that this is the correct
information:
part number: NGK PFR6J-11
gap of .034" for
15psi
Will I need any new gaskets or special tools to change all 6 plugs?
- The
front 3 plugs look very easy, however the back 3 look very difficult -
any
tips/tricks??
Any help would be appreciated!
Thank you
-
Eddie
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 20:42:36 -0500
From: "Kevin" <
Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Changing plugs
Check out these instructions given from Brian
at GT Pro. I used them last
week, went very well and I can not think of
anything I would add.
START BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
The easiest way to do it
will be to first remove the rear I/C pipe
completely to get more room. Now
remove the EGR pipe to manifold connection
where it meets the manifold, but
only remove one bolt completely and make
the other one really loose. What
this will do is release the stainless
gasket that is in there and this way
you can "swing the gasket around and
not have it drop into the
"black void", never to be found again. Now remove
the bolt
attatching the rear manifold with the engine pick-up bracket
located near the
drivers side, and also the same bracket on the passenger
side. Loosen, but do
NOT remove the Y-pipe, just loosen it up and remove
ONLY the two rubber I/C
pipes connected to it, them swing the Y-pipe upwards
carefully to make room
to move the manifold. Now remove the two 10mm bolts
that hold the throttle
cable and move it to the side. Remove the two 10mm
bolts that hold the three
connector plugs to the manifold that sit next to
the Y-pipe. Remove the two
10mm bolts holding the front injector loom to the
manifold. NOW you can
remove the main manifold bolts to remove the manifold.
You can now lift the
manifold up. Use a prop to hold the manifold up and
tilted to the passenges
side, and this will give you just enough room to get
the plugs out and
changed. I would reccomened a new gasket for the intake
manifold at this
time. Now just reverse the steps. One trick though, put the
manifold down on
the lower manifold, but don't bolt it down yet, put in the
EGR pipe FIRST,
the reason being is that with the manifold "loose" you can
move it
a bit to line up the EGR holes, put one bolt in first with the
gasket tilted
up so you can hold it from falling, then once you have the
first bolt in a
few turns, then swing the gasket around and install the
other bolt. NOW do
the rest, and you'll be done!!
END BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
Hope it
helps,
Kevin Schappell
Auto
Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead-
------------Still under construction---------------
- ----- Original Message
-----
From: Eddie <
stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Monday, November 01, 1999 6:32 PM
Subject: Team3S: Changing
plugs
> Hello,
> I am getting ready
to change my plugs, I plan to run 14-15psi of boost
> on my 92 Stealth R/T
- TT
>
> I would like to make sure that this
is the correct information:
>
> part number: NGK PFR6J-11
>
gap of .034" for 15psi
>
> Will I need any new gaskets or
special tools to change all 6 plugs? - The
> front 3 plugs look very easy,
however the back 3 look very difficult - any
>
tips/tricks??
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
>
Thank you -
> Eddie
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Nov 1999 21:06:07 -0700
From: "CEskelsen" <
cesk@redrock.net>
Subject: Team3S: Off
Topic: Ground Control webpage
Will someone please give me the Ground
Control website URL?
Thanks,
Cory E
96 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:21:58 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Off
Topic: Ground Control webpage
- ----- Original Message -----
From:
CEskelsen <
cesk@redrock.net>
>Will someone
please give me the Ground Control website URL?
http://www.ground-control.com//Mikael
Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
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