--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #301
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Wednesday, October 6 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
301
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 5 Oct 1999 16:58:38 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
upper stress bars?
>Who makes sway bars?? is it for a TT?? I would
imagine
>puttin a set on a TT whould be a big pain in the a$$..
I'm
not sure of the company that makes 'em, but when I was talking with my
local
performance shop he said he can get them for the car (I didn't ask
the
manufacturer). I'll give him a call and see what he
says.
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:37:24 EDT
From: Yogourt@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Looking
for a scrap yard
Hi all,
I'm looking for a set of precats that I can
gut. I want to save my own.
Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look.
I tried East STreet but they
don't have any and don't usually keep them.
Thanks,
Paul
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:40:37 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Air/Fuel Meter
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0082_01BF0F7A.4309B680
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I just purchased an Air/Fuel Meter from GTPRO, it is
made by spliut sec, =
I need to know where is the bvest place to get the
readings from the O2 =
sensors in my 98 3000GT SL (Automatic). Any
suggestion?
Edwin
-
------=_NextPart_000_0082_01BF0F7A.4309B680
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just purchased an
Air/Fuel Meter from GTPRO, it is =
made by=20
spliut sec, I need to know
where is the bvest place to get the readings =
from the=20
O2 sensors in
my 98 3000GT SL (Automatic). Any
suggestion?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Edwin</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0082_01BF0F7A.4309B680--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 5 Oct 1999 19:41:24 -0600
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: wastegate
questions
This might be a long shot but I wanted to try. Has anyone seen
or know if
the greddy type-r wastegate flange is the same as TIAL or anything
alike???
92 3000 GTO S.C.
Soon to be exactly what the
plates say :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla x4733
http://members.xoom.com/palamarap
<http://members.xoom.com/palamarap>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 07:49:48 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Bee-Racing Products
I was looking at the
Bee-Racing GTO in the October issue of Turbo.
Does anyone know if they have a
distributor in the U.S. or Europe? I am
really interested in the
exhaust manifold. They really did a nice job
on it. I am not
versed enough in turbos to compare the HK$ ones they
installed to say,
17g's. Anyone know how they compare? Also I cannot
tell but it
does not look like they are using a MAS. Either that or it
is under the
headlight.
Thanks,
Mike
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 07:49:52 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
> * EGT Temp Probe
located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
> Add 150F degrees
if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
>
downpipe/collector.
I have an APEXi EGT gauge mounted in the front
exhaust manifold about
two inches before
it mates to the turbo. I
also drive on the Autobahn for extended times
at 100+ speeds.
I have
sustained 975 for over 15 seconds before. If I am going over
100
mph and I
floor it my EGT's will always go above 925. The most I have
ever seen
was about 980-990
C. When I regapped my plugs all these
figures dropped about 25 C. So
right now if I am
going 120 mph on a
steep uphill in 5th with the DSBC set at 15 psi, I
will see at least
950
C. I have suspected that my probe may not be calibrated correctly,
but
how do you
test for 950 C? I have an Alamo downpipe, test pipe and
Borla
cat-back. The pre-cats
are intact and not clogged (at least
the front one). Plug gap is at
.034 right now.
After I installed the EGT I posted a similar question, and several
people
told me
that while they were high, they are normal.
Mike
C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
>
>
> Celsius to
Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
> Multiply Celsius degrees by
9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
> Stock motor &
pistons
> Celsius = Fahrenheit
> 950
= 1742 PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec
bursts)
> 925 = 1700 Getting
damn close
> 900 = 1652 About
the maximum limit - unless racing
> 875
= 1607 or less No problems...
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 5 Oct 1999 02:46:02 -0400
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost
!! Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
Man, Sounds
like a wastegate is stuck open. If you can hear the
turbos
spooling up it would seam that you would get some
preasure.
Bob
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, October 05, 1999 10:15 AM
Subject: Team3S: No Boost !! Also low rpm
Smoke (sorry, long post)
> Hi all,
>
Well, things were going great with all my upgrades BUT now
something
has
> happened with my boost situation. I was on my way
to the rescheduled NOPI
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:21:00 +0200
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience
Hi Jim
The German importer
shall have a CDRom with all parts and when they find the
part you are looking
for they just enter your chassi number and the software
provides the part
number that fit your modell and year. Ask someone in US
with a 95 3000gt if
they can send you their chassi number so you can use it
to find parts for
your car.
The front brake pads are the same, the rear Euro callipers are
different
from the US version, atleast on my 93.
/Mikael
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:30:20 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Looking for a scrap yard
I got my rear pre-cat from an "internet
salvage yard". They offered it to me
for $250 and I talked them down to $100.
It even came with the 02 sensor
still in :) Sorry, can't remember the name
but I found it via the web
search.
Hope this
helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>I'm looking for a set of precats that
I can gut. I want to save my own.
>Anyone have any suggestions as to where
to look. I tried East STreet but
they
>don't have any and don't usually
keep them.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:34:31 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
Ed,
Call Brian at GTPRO for the proper
information. Also I think your 98 does
have four O2 sensors so you should tap
into one of the wires from the
sensors before the cats.
ADMIN Note :
Please turn of the HTML, as this may confuse the mailing list
server.
Thanks.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:35:54 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: wastegate questions
Peter, you may call or email Brian @ GT PRO
as he's pretty familiar with the
Greddy stuff.
ROger
93'3000GT
TT
>This might be a long shot but I wanted to try. Has anyone seen
or know if
>the greddy type-r wastegate flange is the same as TIAL or
anything alike???
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:40:04 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bee-Racing Products
>I am really interested in the exhaust
manifold. They really did a nice job
>on it. I am not versed
enough in turbos to compare the HK$ ones they
>installed to say,
17g's. Anyone know how they compare? Also I cannot
>tell but
it does not look like they are using a MAS. Either that or it
>is
under the headlight.
I was told that this is a custom made header design
and nothing that will be
produced in a larger series. Of course if we order
50 or so .... They
installed three different turbos and the largest were
comparable to 20Gs but
dunno the others. For the fuel part I thought that
they are using a VPC
(i.e. no MAs nor MAF). Don't have the turbo mag (too
much wrong stuff in
there) so I can't see the pics.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:43:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience
>Ask someone in US
with a 95 3000gt if they can send you their chassi number
so you can use
it
>to find parts for your car.
Good idea :)
>The front
brake pads are the same, the rear Euro callipers are different
>from the
US version, atleast on my 93.
Jims Stealth and my 93'Euro 3000GT do have
the same two-piston calipers in
the rear. The rotor size is the same too in
the rear.
CU
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 06:34:05 -0400
From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Air/Fuel Meter
I just purchased an Air/Fuel Meter from GTPRO, it is made
by split
sec, I need to know where is the best place to get the readings
from
the O2 sensors in my 98 3000GT SL (Automatic). Any
suggestion?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 08:30:33 +0100
From: "Robert Jerome Mengler" <RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Questions
Hello
All,
Car in Question: Dark Green 1994 Mitsubishi 3000gt SL 5speed with
61,000
miles. As far as I know
everything is stock (had the car 2000
miles
so far).
I've been trying
to follow the Digest list as time permits but I am
behind
in my reading (like with
everything else). However, I did get
to
finally change my oil (I put about
45mi/day on my 1994 3000gt SL):
I am
very picky with my cars and have a few hangups with this
one
(other than the dent I noticed
someone prior to me buying the car
had
put in the door and if you look just so you can see it):
The oil change
was a breeze, I think I will go back to changing the
oil
filter every OTHER oil change like
the manual said and someone on
the list
or somewhere said (Filters seem to work optimally
when
slightly dirty for filtering
smaller particles): plus I can justify
the more expensive recommended Mitsubishi oil filters that way
and
have peace of mind. After
researching I decided to go with
Valvoline 20w-50wt (also, my brother used it in his
very
smooth-running 1983 Toyota
Supra with 160,000 miles on it without
any problems and he said I should probably stick to
non-synthetic
oil if the car hadn't had
synthetic oil in it: my car has
61,000
miles on it).
PROBLEM
1: The car seems a bit sluggish starting out now where it
didn't
before: outside temp may be
60-80degrees (Houston) when the car is
cold. After about 5 min. it seems OK and I was wondering if
anyone
else had this problem with 20wt
viscosity oil?
PROBLEM 2: or is it a problem?: Is it normal for all
front wheel drive
cars to feel this
way? This is hard to describe and I guess it
is
quite subtle but it feels kind of
like the car "bottoms out", for
lack of
a better word, when I go over small bumps or for
that
matter, am just cruising
along. I doubt I have a bad shock
or
anything and I doubt the struts would
go out so early (61000mi): I'm
thinking
this is just how the car rides, even if it were new.
PROBLEM3: I
have a huge problem with the stupid ECS button
(Electronic
Control Suspension):
who the heck needs it? The "Sport" ride
with
this button depressed is so spongy
with no bumps in the road and way
overkill when you do go over bumps and the car's rear seems to
lift
over larger bumps and give the
feeling of losing control of the
vehicle
before all wheels feel like they are on the ground:
I
personally do not feel safer or
sportier cornering (recall that
cornering is supposed to be improved with this button on) with
the
ECS on, so I usually leave it off
always: does it really improve
cornering??
Do you racers on the list keep the ECS on or
off???
PROBLEM 4: One time when I thought the car was in reverse it
apparently
was somewhere else and as I
let off the clutch at a complete stop
the car CLUNKED real LOUD and shook violently for a fraction of
a
second while it complained loudly
"CLUNK" which the neighbors
literally 4
houses down could have heard. I did it a couple
more
times because I couldn't believe my
ears and then I finally found
reverse
and ever since I have been careful to make sure I am
in
reverse: No offense VR4's
(because I wish I had one aside from the
transmission), but DO THESE 5-speed STANDARD TRANSMISSIONS HAVE
SOME
OF THE SAME PROBLEMS THAT THE
VR4 6-speed TRANSMISSIONS HAVE?
PROBLEM 5: The clutch
was replaced at 55,000 miles in Aug.1998. I
thought
maybe it was just that I needed
to get used to the feel of the
clutch
(do clutches take some time before they
are
less"grabby"/"sensitive"?): I
bought an expensive car for class and
I
don't expect the car to shift like a Mercedes but I really
don't
want my girlfriend complaining
that I am jerking her around (pardon
the
pun) or contributing to spilling her drink: It always
shifts
into 4th or 5th gear very
smoothly so that I can omit all of the
"grabbing" feeling in those gears but first gear is the worst:
I
find shifting at 3000rpm in 1st and
2nd gears to the next gear up to
work
the best. But sometimes the car jerks like if you let off
the
clutch too fast. ALSO,
many times just in traffic and inching
up
when I am slowly creeping along
smoothly in 1st gear, maybe 3-5mph,
and
I try to accelerate as SLOWLY as possible, the car jerks:
this
also happens in 2nd
gear. I THINK IT IS BECAUSE THE GAS PEDAL
IS
TOO SENSITIVE/HARD, i.e. when I press
down initially on the gas the
pedal goes
down too far (maybe 1/4 inch?) unless I am SO careful
and
SLOW at accelerating: Maybe
there is a place to lube the gas pedal
(????) or I need to check the carpet around the pedal or
something
for
sticking???????????????? So maybe that part is not
clutch
related?????????? The
dealer told me to check the reservoir
where
for the clutch to make sure it is
full but I doubt it is low after
6000 miles: what fluid do you all use?
Thanks alot for ANY
input and sorry this is so long, please CUT and SNIP
on
all replies guys and
gals!!!!! Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:49:55 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience
>The German importer shall
have a CDRom with all parts and when they find
the
>part you are
looking for they just enter your chassi number and
the
software
>provides the part number that fit your modell and year.
Ask someone in US
>with a 95 3000gt if they can send you their chassi
number so you can use it
>to find parts for your car.
I have a
base 1995 3000GT. If you can tell me where to look for the
chasis
number I'll see if I can find it (as long as it doesn't mean taking
the car
apart :).
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 10:24:50 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt
SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Questions
PROBLEM3: I
have a huge problem with the stupid ECS button
(Electronic
Control Suspension):
who the heck needs it? The "Sport" ride
with
this button depressed is so spongy
with no bumps in the road and way
overkill when you do go over bumps and the car's rear seems to
lift
over larger bumps and give the
feeling of losing control of the
vehicle
before all wheels feel like they are on the ground:
I
personally do not feel safer or
sportier cornering (recall that
cornering is supposed to be improved with this button on) with
the
ECS on, so I usually leave it off
always: does it really improve
cornering??
Do you racers on the list keep the ECS on or off???
-
-----------------------------------------------------
I have a 95 base
3000GT so I don't have the ECS, but I believe (and I'm not
100% sure, but I'm
sure that someone else on here can agree / disagree with
this :) that if yer
interested in making the car look better, getting the
car lowered will
basically get rid of it. I purchased a set of Eibach
springs and
lowered my car 1.3 inches. Looks a lot nicer, and the handling
is much
better than before.
-
-----------------------------------------------------
PROBLEM 5: The
clutch was replaced at 55,000 miles in Aug.1998. I
thought
maybe it was just that I needed
to get used to the feel of the
clutch
(do clutches take some time before they
are
less"grabby"/"sensitive"?): I
bought an expensive car for class and
I
don't expect the car to shift like a Mercedes but I really
don't
want my girlfriend complaining
that I am jerking her around (pardon
the
pun) or contributing to spilling her drink: It always
shifts
into 4th or 5th gear very
smoothly so that I can omit all of the
"grabbing" feeling in those gears but first gear is the worst:
I
find shifting at 3000rpm in 1st and
2nd gears to the next gear up to
work
the best. But sometimes the car jerks like if you let off
the
clutch too fast. ALSO,
many times just in traffic and inching
up
when I am slowly creeping along
smoothly in 1st gear, maybe 3-5mph,
and
I try to accelerate as SLOWLY as possible, the car jerks:
this
also happens in 2nd
gear. I THINK IT IS BECAUSE THE GAS PEDAL
IS
TOO SENSITIVE/HARD, i.e. when I press
down initially on the gas the
pedal goes
down too far (maybe 1/4 inch?) unless I am SO careful
and
SLOW at accelerating: Maybe
there is a place to lube the gas pedal
(????) or I need to check the carpet around the pedal or
something
for
sticking???????????????? So maybe that part is not
clutch
related?????????? The
dealer told me to check the reservoir
where
for the clutch to make sure it is
full but I doubt it is low after
6000 miles: what fluid do you all use?
-
---------------------------------------------------------
For me, and I had
the same with my '94 eclipse GS, the clutches on these
cars are very
unforgiving when it comes to getting a smooth ride and takes
some practice
and getting used to. Granted, once you do get it smooth, you
can pretty
much drive any stick and get it smooth :). Yer right about 1st
gear, if
yer going pretty slow with the clutch out, and then try to
accelerate, the
car will jerk a little. It's pretty much unless yer in
rush-hour
traffic (I'm originally from Chicago, so I know about that ;)p,
get into 2nd
to cruise at lower speeds of like 15 mph or above. If you just
need to
inch along, what I do is slowly let up on the clutch (in 1st),
giving it gas,
but not fully letting up on the clutch. I let 1st grab a bit
to get the
car rolling, and then put the clutch back in so I'm coasting.
This way when
traffic starts moving again I can accelerate properly from
first without it
jerking.
Yer also right about best shifting at 3000 rpm's, that's
basically the way
this car is really designed. I pretty much always try
to shift around
3000 - 3500 rpm's between gears when accelerating (as in just
normal
cruising). The only other thing I can think of that's helped me
smooth out
the ride when going through 1st and 2nd gear is to let the clutch
up nice
and slow to give it a smooth transition between gears (even after the
gear
engages, I take my time up on that clutch a bit, giving it a little
gas
because I've found if I just let up on it right there, the car jerks a
bit).
Also, while yer slowly letting up on the clutch, give it a little gas
all
the way through (not a bunch mind ya) so as yer letting it slowly
engage,
it's got the power it needs to get into the next gear without
jerking.
Again, my eclipse was VERY unforgiving on trying to get a smooth
ride, and
that's transitioned over to my 3000GT (although the 3000GT is much
easier
than my eclipse was, but it still can be unforgiving).
Also,
what did they replace the clutch with (aftermarket, or a
factory
clutch)? If it's an aftermarket clutch (like some kind of
performance
clutch), then that could be yer problem. Performance
clutches are made to
pretty much be on or off for quick and fast
engaging. So it'd be much
harder to drive one of those smoothly as
compared to a factory clutch.
I hope this email didn't come off as
belittling or anything of the like with
regards to the shifting stuff.
Don't mean to sound like a teacher or
anything, just sharing what I've found
works for me :).
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 09:14:06 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Looking for a scrap yard
Hi Paul,
> I'm looking for
a set of precats that I can gut. I want to save my own.
> Anyone have any
suggestions as to where to look. I tried East STreet but they
> don't have
any and don't usually keep them.
Here are a few junkyards that have shown
up on the list in the past.
M&S is located in Rancho Cordova near
Sacramento.
1-800-695-4700
http://www.msrecycling.com/main.html
Foster's
Auto Parts
10355 SE Foster Road
Portland, OR
(800) 547-4851
(800)
278-5548
East Street Automotive
810 East Street ( who'da thunkit? )
Memphis,
Tennersee 38104
phone: (901) 774-5374
fax:
(901) 774-5336
Good luck...
- --
Drive faster, it is later
than you think!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:19:01 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Que
stions
Robert...
Welcome. I think answers to some of your
questions are in the archives, but
I'll try to be brief with embedded <cjw
- response> comments. Enjoy!!!
Looking forward...Chris
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Jerome Mengler [mailto:RMENGLER@statoil.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 06, 1999 12:31 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc:
r4381576@earthlink.net; Robert
Jerome Mengler
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.:
Newbie
Questions
<snip>
The oil change was a breeze,
<snip> After researching I decided to go
with
Valvoline 20w-50wt (also, my
brother used it in his very
smooth-running 1983 Toyota Supra with 160,000 miles on it
without
any problems and he said I
should probably stick to non-synthetic
oil if the car hadn't had synthetic oil in it: my car has
61,000
miles on it).
PROBLEM
1: The car seems a bit sluggish starting out now where it
didn't
before: outside temp may be
60-80degrees (Houston) when the car is
cold. After about 5 min. it seems OK and I was wondering if
anyone
else had this problem with 20wt
viscosity oil?
<cjw - although I'm not a NA 3KGT owner, I use
synthetic oil in ALL my
vehicles, including NA ones I've bought with more
than 75K miles on them. I
do a flush and then change over. I'm currently
using Mobil One 15-50w in
four vehicles, ranging from 40K miles to 136K
miles. None of them started
their lives with synthetic, all are doing well.
Start up "sluggishness" is
eliminated. BTW...I used to use Valvoline 20-50w
Racing Oil in all my
hotrods, but that was before synthetic oil was readily
available.>
PROBLEM 2: or is it a problem?: Is it normal for all
front wheel drive
cars to feel this
way? This is hard to describe and I guess it
is
quite subtle but it feels kind of
like the car "bottoms out", for
lack of
a better word, when I go over small bumps or for
that
matter, am just cruising
along. I doubt I have a bad shock
or
anything and I doubt the struts would
go out so early (61000mi): I'm
thinking
this is just how the car rides, even if it were new.
<cjw - well, it
sounds like a potential problem to me, particularly when
combined with your
next issue. There is a DISTINCT difference (improvement)
in the handling and
associate stiffness with the ECS set in sport mode
(versus tour). I have
lowered progressive Eibach springs and still never
bottom out. This sounds
like a leaky strut. Have you checked for leakage?
BTW...I set the ECS on
sport mode when I drag race, whenever I plan on
breaking the 100mph
mark, and whenever I doing some hard cornering...even at
50 mph. Perhaps some
of the wiring is broken (they're very small wires and
prone to breaking at
the connector), so you might have a couple working and
a couple that don't
work. This would produce the "unbalance" sensation.>
PROBLEM3:
<snip> ECS on, so I usually leave it off always: does it
really
improve
cornering?? Do you
racers on the list keep the ECS on or off???
PROBLEM 4:
<snip> No offense VR4's (because I wish I had one aside from
the
transmission), but DO THESE 5-speed
STANDARD TRANSMISSIONS HAVE SOME
OF THE
SAME PROBLEMS THAT THE VR4 6-speed TRANSMISSIONS
HAVE?
<cjw - Gee, I hope not. It's bad enough the Getrag is failure
prone. My 6
speed certainly is cranky about going into reverse. I usually
hold the
shifter at the gate and SLOWLY engage the clutch until it drops
into
reverse.>
PROBLEM 5: The clutch was replaced at
55,000 miles in Aug.1998. I thought
maybe it was just that I needed to get used to the feel of
the
clutch (do clutches take some time
before they are
less"grabby"/"sensitive"?): <snip> I THINK IT IS BECAUSE THE
GAS
PEDAL IS
TOO SENSITIVE/HARD, i.e.
when I press down initially on the gas
the
pedal goes down too far (maybe 1/4
inch?) unless I am SO careful and
SLOW
at accelerating: Maybe there is a place to lube the gas
pedal
(????) or I need to check the
carpet around the pedal or something
for
sticking???????????????? So maybe that part is not
clutch
related?????????? The
dealer told me to check the reservoir
where
for the clutch to make sure it is
full but I doubt it is low after
6000 miles: what fluid do you all use?
<cjw - Your car should
shift better than a Mercedes. Yes, check the
reservoir. Was the clutch
replaced with a stock clutch? Or aftermarket?
Hopefully, all components
(disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing) and a
resurface on the flywheel was
done at the same time. Otherwise, you're
headed for premature failure. Find
out who did the work and get a copy of
the work order. The throttle body is
actuated by a cable. You can lube the
cable with a good quality silicone
spray, starting at the top end (at the
throttle body). The silicone will work
it's way through the entire cable.
The accelerator should move smoothly and
freely (restricted only by the
return spring). >
Thanks alot for
ANY input and sorry this is so long, please CUT and SNIP
on
all replies guys and
gals!!!!! Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:25:46 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Que
stions
Benson...
This one piece of your reply <snipped> is
interesting. Have you tried
shifting at higher RPMs? Even though my 3KGT is a
TT, I can't imagine
shifting regularly at 3K to 3.5K RPMs. I doubt you're
into the torque curve
after you've shifted. Whether my econobox or the TT, I
normally shift around
5.5K unless I'm trying to conserve fuel. I think it's
smoother, and tends to
bog less. Just my preference.
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo"
Russell [mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:25 AM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S:
3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.:
Newbie
Questions
<snip>
Yer also right about best
shifting at 3000 rpm's, that's basically the way
this car is really
designed. I pretty much always try to shift around
3000 - 3500 rpm's
between gears when accelerating (as in just normal
cruising).
<snip>
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 11:01:06 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Questions
This is a
multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0102_01BF0FEA.16BE5700
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
>Benson...
>
>This one piece of your
reply <snipped> is interesting. Have you tried
>shifting at higher
RPMs? Even though my 3KGT is a TT, I can't imagine
>shifting regularly at
3K to 3.5K RPMs. I doubt you're into the torque =
curve
>after you've
shifted. Whether my econobox or the TT, I normally shift =
around
>5.5K
unless I'm trying to conserve fuel. I think it's smoother, and =
tends
to
>bog less. Just my preference.
>
>Looking
forward...Chris
I shift around 3000 - 3500 RPM's for just normal, driving
around town =
driving (gas conservative stuff and all :). But when I'm
performance =
driving, then yes I usually go to 6000-7000 and then
shift. My eclipse =
liked shifting at just before 6000 when performance
driving, but the =
nice thing about the 3000GT's is they seem to like it
closer to 7000 :). =
Such a fun car to drive :).
Latufh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
- ------=_NextPart_000_0102_01BF0FEA.16BE5700
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0
Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META
content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1"
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3500"
name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2>>Benson...<BR>><BR>>This one
=
piece of your=20
reply <snipped> is interesting. Have you
tried<BR>>shifting at =
higher=20
RPMs? Even though my 3KGT
is a TT, I can't imagine<BR>>shifting =
regularly at=20
3K to
3.5K RPMs. I doubt you're into the torque curve<BR>>after
=
you've=20
shifted. Whether my econobox or the TT, I normally shift
=
around<BR>>5.5K=20
unless I'm trying to conserve fuel. I
think it's smoother, and tends=20
to<BR>>bog less. Just my
preference.<BR>><BR>>Looking=20
forward...Chris<BR><BR>I
shift around 3000 - 3500 RPM's for just normal, =
driving=20
around town
driving (gas conservative stuff and all :). But when
=
I'm=20
performance driving, then yes I usually go to 6000-7000 and then
=
shift. My=20
eclipse liked shifting at just before 6000 when
performance driving, but =
the=20
nice thing about the 3000GT's is they
seem to like it closer to 7000 =
:). =20
Such a fun car to drive
:).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Latufh fuh U,<BR>Benson<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:benson@2015.com">benson@2015.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>"-Do you ever have second =
thoughts?<BR>-When
do I=20
ever have first
thoughts?"</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0102_01BF0FEA.16BE5700--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 11:33:41 -0500
From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt
SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Questions
Okay... well I guess
I may be doing something bad then... cause I rarely run over 2200rpm when
shifting. Unless I am racing. Then it is 6500 or so. Is this a
bad thing to do??? I mean no it isn't the fastest way to get to speed, but I get
in the 30MPG range... Since my tranny and clutch and transfer case are brand
spankin new I guess I need to know if this is bad or
not.
Ryan
MCSE/ASE
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 09:49:24 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie
Questions
> Okay... well I guess I may be doing something bad then...
cause I rarely run over 2200rpm when shifting. Unless I am racing.
Then it is 6500 or so. Is this a bad thing to do??? I mean no it isn't the
fastest way to get to speed, but I get in the 30MPG range... Since my tranny and
clutch and transfer case are brand spankin new I guess I need to know if this is
bad or not.
You should always (i.e. after a shift) keep your RPM above
1800 when driving.
Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not
good for your engine to
be under load with low oil pressure.
- --
Drive faster, it is later than you think!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:53:14 -0700
From: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.:
NewbieQuestions
Ryan;
If you're shifting at 6500 when racing
you're shifting late...out of your
power curve. Try in the 58-6000 range.
And, the car is a high performance
car so shifting in the low rpm bands is
not doing it any good on a daily
driver basis. You might get god gas mileage
but believe it not, it's harder
on the engine. Whereas Chris advises 55, and
it is good advise, you could
get by with 45 g shifts.. but don't settle for
anything lower.
Best
Darc
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Ryan Floyd <FloydR@dvn.com>
To: benson@2015.com <benson@2015.com>; cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, October 06, 1999 9:40 AM
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil
change,clutch,ECS,etc.: NewbieQuestions
>Okay... well I guess I
may be doing something bad then... cause I rarely
run over 2200rpm when
shifting. Unless I am racing. Then it is 6500 or so.
Is this a
bad thing to do??? I mean no it isn't the fastest way to get to
speed, but I
get in the 30MPG range... Since my tranny and clutch and
transfer case are
brand spankin new I guess I need to know if this is bad
or
not.
>
>Ryan
>
>MCSE/ASE
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 11:34:09 -0500
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: NewbieQuestions
I was always
taught that for any manual transmission car that when cruising
along (not
shifting, just actual driving at sustained speed) you want to
keep yer RPM's
between 2200 - 2500. Then if the RPM's start going above
3000, then
it's time to shift to another gear (unless yer already at the top
:).
If yer shifting at 2200, then that means yer next gear is starting out
around
1600, that's definatley bad.
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
- -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 13:42:24 -0500
From: sjc0u812@juno.com
Subject: Team3S: HKS
Sponge Filters
Hello to all:
I was wondering if anyone out there
has washed out and reused their HKS
sponge filters with success. Please
advise.
Best
regards,
SJ
___________________________________________________________________
Get
the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free
Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 14:21:33 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
No Boost! Low rpm Smoke, Help!
I was at the track with Ahmed, and drove
his car. The car makes
NO positive pressure at all, against full load
against the footbrake,
even when I took the wastegate hose completely OFF the
boost controller,
to remove the boost controller from ANY chance of screwup;
the
wastegates remained completely closed forever and
uncontrollably high
boost SHOULD have happened, but NO boost was
produced; it only got to
atmospheric (0psi) pressure on Ahmed's
aftermarket boost gauge.
Therefore, the intake tract is open to
atmosphere someplace after the
compressors, or all compressed
air from ONE turbo is backfeeding through the
other defective turbo.
We checked all hoses, I saw none off. I
checked as best I could the
intercoolers
and saw no gross cracks (they are
made of aluminum, welded, unlike
Supras which have plastic end tanks crimped
onto the aluminum IC; blew the
endtanks off my buddy's Supra a couple weeks
ago after putting the HKS twin ball-
bearing turbo kit on his car at
too-high boost!)
The only suggestion that makes full sense so far is that
either a
compressor wheel, or an exhaust turbine wheel, has come off
the
shaft (or completely frozen) on one of the turbos such that
the other turbo
(which still works) is having all its positive pressure
backfed with ~ no
resistance, so no boost shows up ever.
Ahmed, you need to check the back
turbo compressor side, and if
not bad, then I'd suggest you need to REMOVE
front turbo(could be that one
if the not-visible turbine wheel "came off")
and then the
back turbo (since it is harder, do it LAST) to see which is
the
problem...ugh. Let us know!
Jack Tertadian
Yogourt@aol.com wrote:
> TurboDrvn@aol.com writes:
> If my
GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
>
some minimal boost - so the boost controller should be
fine.
>
> I think it has to be your boost controler
malfunctioning. If nothing
> prevents the boost from getting to the
engine(open BOV, leak in pipes), then
> something has to be preventing the
turbos from making boost. This could be 2
> stuck open wastgates, a
faulty boost controller, or hose leaks. If you
> didn't find any
leaks and the wastegates are not stuck it must be the boost
>
controller. Try reconnecting the stock boost controller and see if you
get
> any boost.
> Paul
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 14:36:28 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Transfer case leak/cracks
Regarding 91-93 (ALUMINUM) transfer case
failures:
I can document that my last bad xfer case had a leak due to a crack
in the
aluminum case. The crack was located at the area surrounding the
lower driverside
bolt that attaches the xfer case to the transmission, (or
maybe the tailshaft to
the main xfer case?) as I recall; at any rate, the
crack was in the case at the junction
between the xfer case's "tailshaft"
and the main xfer CASE, lower rearmost
bolt on driver side. The
aluminum there is machined thinner because the rear
round hole is there, the
side/faceplate hole is on the driverside.
I had two other cases start
such leaks, wasn't sure where leak was from
(never took apart to SEE the
crack as I did the LAST time); those cases
had the gears go bad, but that
could be because no FLUID as FIRST
problem, not necessarily a primary gear or
bearing failure.. Of note, the
gears in the last (cracked) case all
looked fine; the case just LEAKED.
It may have been repairable; since
warrantied, I did not try. If
left to leak, all fluid would disappear
and one could falsely be led to believe
it was primary gear or other seal
failure, if crack not searched for.
1994+ have cast iron transfer cases,
which do not crack/break much
(has anybody broken a 94+ iron xfer
case?)
Jack Tertadian
Darcy Gunnlaugson wrote:
> Has
anyone inspected the source of leak/s on these 1st gen (aluminum)
>
transfer cases? Are they a weak point crack (as Mikael noted in his
>
rebuild), leaking gasket? Are they repairable?
> Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 12:50:48 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
SJ...
I wash out my HKS Super Flo's
every couple months. Soap and water, squeeze
dry, left to sit for a day or
two. Works great, they hold their shape well,
and fit back into the baskets
nicely. However, there was a filter review
posted a few weeks ago that
indicate our filters don't filter worth spit.
:-(
Looking
forward...Chris
- -----Original Message-----
From: sjc0u812@juno.com [mailto:sjc0u812@juno.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, October 06, 1999 11:42 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
Hello to all:
I was wondering if anyone
out there has washed out and reused their HKS
sponge filters with
success. Please advise.
Best regards, SJ
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 06 Oct 1999 17:14:17 -0400
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: ECS
problem.
My ECS lights are flashing, but both tour and sport lights are
flashing
at the same time. Does this indicate a gross malfunction? Can I
replace
the wiring harnesses? I suspect it may be the wiring, and I don't
want
to replace a whole strut if I don't have to.
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 14:52:16 -0700
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Silver State ORR - off topic
Folks...
For all you road
racers that are building your engines (and brakes), have
you
considered...
http://www.silverstateclassic.com/
Keep
in mind, this is off topic (non-technical), but I'm wondering if anyone
has
run this Open Road Race, or plans to in 2000?
Please reply
PRIVATELY!!!
Looking forward...Chris
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 6 Oct 1999 23:37:52 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ECS problem.
> My ECS lights are flashing, but both tour and
sport lights are flashing
> at the same time. Does this indicate a gross
malfunction? Can I replace
> the wiring harnesses? I suspect it may be the
wiring, and I don't want
> to replace a whole strut if I don't have
to.
First, make sure all the conenction is good. Pull the front
connectors and
clean them with contact spray and make sure the wires are in
good shape. In
the most of the cases this is the problem. If you are sure all
the
connections are fine and the ECS lights are still flashing then one of
the
struts is really gone.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #301
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm