--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #122
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Friday, March 12 1999          Volume 01 : Number 122




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 23:22:50 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Autopower rollbar....

Hi team...

  I happened to have the Autopower rollbar in my car.  Mine was bought
and installed few years ago so I don't know if they made any changes.

  I just took some pix with my bro's digital cam, so anyone interested
in seeing what it look like can give me a private email and I'll sent
you the pix.  Sorry for not posting it on the net, I don't have a
homepage nor do I have how to make one! ;(

  One last thing I might add, I was told (back then) that the roll bar
won't fit 3Ss with the sun/moonroofs.

Take care,

George
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 07:37:40 EST
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: 0-60(In The Rain)

In a message dated 3/11/99 2:02:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, phnxgld@erols.com
writes:

<<  This is on Pzeros, which probably aren't the best winter tire.  Hell,
 I'd bet a stock VR4 could hit 60 mph in under 6 seconds in the rain. >>
  
******** I don't know what a stock one would do,but I can verify that one
      with a bleeder can run a 4.73 sec 0-60 in a hard rain.(Hey,I was bored)
                                       Wayne 3SI #87
                                        '91 Stealth TT
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Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 12:43:41 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: lash adjuster question

  Hello all,
 
  I have a question concerning the hydraulic valve lash adjusters that I
thought was a simple one, but that I have yet get a real answer to.....

 Basically, I want to know if the adjusters have to be bled and FULL of oil
when they are installed. Before you answer - a little more info.
 
 The problem I am having is the (front exhaust) camshaft not rotating freely
even when all the rockers are rolling on the cam baseline (none on any of the
lobes exerting pressure on the valve springs).
  This happens if I assemble everything with the adjusters FULL and bled. If I
slightly depress the adjusters to allow some freeplay during assembly, the cam
turns freely.

  So back to my question - if I install the adjusters minus a little oil, will
they bleed out and remain adjusted properly? Or will they fill and bind again?
Do I have a geometry / valve height problem that is causing the cam binding?

   Hope this was at least somewhat clear.

    - SteveC

  P.S. I have talked to a couple different Mitsu tech reps and still no
anwser...

  Thanks in advance for any answers or even clever guesses
 

 
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Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 12:08:37 -0700
From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
Subject: Team3S:  Clutch Bleeding

Hello all,
I recently had to replace the rubber hydraulic line that runs from the
clutch housing to the firewall.  I was wondering if there is a certain way
that the clutch should be bled.  I bled the clutch with the same technique
as bleeding a brake.  Now it doesn't feel the same as it did before.  It
seems to not want to go into gear easily from a stop, as if the clutch is
still partially engaged.  It is also harder to shift while driving.  My
question is:
Do you guys have a special technique for this?  Also what type of fluid
should I run in there?  DOT 4 brake fluid?

Thank you for any thoughts.

Paul Horschel
93 VR4

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Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:32:29 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Crankshaft turning

Anybody out there who has rebuilt they're engine (Bob, Arty, Jack, Adam)
know of a highly competent place to have a crankshaft turned and polished?
I don't trust anybody here in memphis (I'll probably get a response like;
"uhh, that there's not no 5 liter") Or does anybody have a NEW crank and
bearing set for sale?

Wayne
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:32:47 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:  Clutch Bleeding

Hi Paul,

> I recently had to replace the rubber hydraulic line that runs from the
> clutch housing to the firewall.  I was wondering if there is a certain way
> that the clutch should be bled.  I bled the clutch with the same technique
> as bleeding a brake.  Now it doesn't feel the same as it did before.  It
> seems to not want to go into gear easily from a stop, as if the clutch is
> still partially engaged.  It is also harder to shift while driving.  My
> question is:
> Do you guys have a special technique for this?  Also what type of fluid
> should I run in there?  DOT 4 brake fluid?

Install a 10mm x 1.0 Speedbleeder bleed screw for $6.50, part # SB1010.
I use Valvoline's new synthetic DOT 4 in clutch & brakes.  It's boiling
point is over 500 degrees and a big bottle cheap, < $5 or maybe < $10.

With a Speedbleeder, you just open the screw, attach a hose and put the
other end in a catch can, then pump the clutch pedal slowly a few times
until the fluid that comes out is clean.  Just keep topping off the
resevoir until you're done.  I did mine with the engine off, even though
the clutch is vacuum assisted, I think.

If you've bled the clutch and it still doesn't feel right, perhaps there
is a problem with the clutch master cylinder or the vacuum assist.  I
currently suspect these in my '91 as the feel changes from time to
time.  It can be clunky when I first start the car.  Another
possibility, perhaps it is related to the temperature of the tranny
fluid, i.e. smoother shifting when warm.

Good luck,
Ken

- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 12:34:10 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Racers

I am trying to get a race team organized for this years, Pikes Peak Hill
Climb. If anyone is interested in this please e-mail me.  Since, the
Hill Climb has many classes of races, all vehicles are welcome.  I am
especially interested in anyone that has 93 or above stock or almost
stock turbo vehicle. All vehicles entering the race will have to be
equipped with a roll cage.  Here is the link to the Hill Climb
associations web page, it has technical information and general race
info is located on this site. http://www.ppihc.com  .

- --


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:50:00 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Car cover

Ok,

    the time has come that I start thinking about a car cover for old
girl.  Unfortunately, I'm moving and won't have a garage to keep it in
so I'll need an "all weather" type cover.

Can anyone make recommendations on the subject?  also If you know of a
website that deals in car covers, please list that too.

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:34:26 EST
From: TJHTAX@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Autopower rollbar....

Hi George,
I would like to see the pic of that roll bar.
Thanks,
Tom 91VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:39:31 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankshaft turning

In a message dated 99-03-11 14:23:10 EST, you write:

<< Anybody out there who has rebuilt they're engine (Bob, Arty, Jack, Adam)
 know of a highly competent place to have a crankshaft turned and polished?
 I don't trust anybody here in memphis (I'll probably get a response like;
 "uhh, that there's not no 5 liter") Or does anybody have a NEW crank and
 bearing set for sale?
  >>

  I don't recommend turning the crank. Some of them (hardened) are
specifically noted not to be turned in the Mits 6G72 overhaul manual. The main
and rod bearings are very finicky. Also Mits does not offer undersize bearings
for all the early model engines. The bearings are matched to the new cranks by
a proprietary color code. My first rebuild (with turned crank) lasted 40 miles
before spinning a rod bearing. The exact cause could not be determined ( I did
not do the work).
  If you decide to get a new crank and bearings (highly recommended) , West
Broad Mitsubishi in Richmond, Va sold me mine at cost (approx $800 for
everything except thrust bearings). Regular dealer price is more than that for
the crank alone. Make sure you identify the exact year and model and get the
right size bearings - '93 and up are fitted bearings.

    SteveC
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 16:00:53 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Crankshaft turning

Wayne,

Don't do it man!  The manual warns against it and even describes a way to
tell if it's ever been done.  There's a special coating on the journals that
turns dull gray if it's been turned.  You can get away with some light
polishing with 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper but machining it is a no-no.

- -Bob

> Anybody out there who has rebuilt they're engine (Bob, Arty, Jack, Adam)
> know of a highly competent place to have a crankshaft turned and polished?
> I don't trust anybody here in memphis (I'll probably get a response like;
> "uhh, that there's not no 5 liter") Or does anybody have a NEW crank and
> bearing set for sale?

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:38:34 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....

Hey, For those of you interested.  If we get enough people together for a
purchase, I have arranged a price of 310.00 Plus shipping for the autopower
roll bar.

The price of the bar should be secured up front, as I believe we can have
the bars drop shipped.

Speak with Tim Meyers at Reigning Performance about these bars.

Thanks,

> Brad
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 18:25:15 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....

Hey, For those of you interested.  If we get enough people together for a
purchase, I have arranged a price of 310.00 Plus shipping for the autopower
roll bar.

The price of the bar should be secured up front, as I believe we can have
the bars drop shipped.

Speak with Tim Meyers at Reigning Performance about these bars.
Correction:  512-454-4600  ( I forgot the #)

Thanks,

> Brad
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:26:38 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW: Need to borrow pre-cats

I have a set or pre-cat eliminators being made by a local shop. 
Although not complete yet, I saw them yesterday and they are
looking very good.
 
However, I told them they could hack up my precats in order to
use the stock flanges to save some time.  The fabricator says
that if he is supplied a set of precats he will make a proper jig
and have the flanges laser cut.  My understanding is that there
are some differences between the 91-93 and 94+ precats.  If this
is indeed true then I suppose we'd need two sets of donors, or
one set for each year where they are different.
 
The cats would be returned in original condition, but that
transaction would be between the donor and the local shop.  Mine
are costing me around $300 for the set which includes the bung
for the O2 sensors and the EGR on the rear one.  A firm price for
production units is yet to be determined and would be up to the
fabricator.  He did say he could provide JetHot ceramic coating
(they are local here in Phoenix) if desired for an additional charge.

Mine are considered prototypes so according to the fabricator any
future sets will likely be better quality depending upon how well
mine work out.
 
Any takers?  Please email privately with positive responses at
beking@home.com.
 
 
Regards,

Barry
 
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 14:49:44 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: 1996+ TT cars DO HAVE a pressure sensor !

Surfing around on the 3S CD I found an interesting part on the top back of the
manifold of the 1996+ TT cars : a MDP. They call it manifold differential
pressure sensor and this means that for any reason Mitsu added it to the car.
The output is directly attached to the ECU and therefore provides real manifold
pressure compared to the calculated one in our older cars.

Does anybody know more about the use of this sensor (boost-dependant fuel cut,
etc.) ?

Thanks,
Roger

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 14:40:27 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Car cover

There is a cover called "Evolution 1". Some of the Camaro/Firebird firends say
that it's perfect but expensive too. I can't say where it is from but it's maybe
worth to search on the web for the name.

Hope this helps :)
Roger

>     the time has come that I start thinking about a car cover for old
> girl.  Unfortunately, I'm moving and won't have a garage to keep it in
> so I'll need an "all weather" type cover.


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:47:35 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Autopower rollbar....

>Hi George,
>I would like to see the pic of that roll bar.
>Thanks,


I'd like to see som pics of  the bar installed in one of our cars!!
 I am interested in the bar buy [ not Barbe ] but the car is a
daily driver there are some inconveniences up with which
 I will not put.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 20:41:43 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: lash adjuster question

Lomcevak@aol.com wrote:
> do hydraulic valve lash adjusters have to be bled/FULL of oil
> when installed?
> if install adjusters minus a little oil, will
> they bleed out/remain adjusted properly?

Yes, they will bleed the air out.  Manual says rev engine up and down
from idle to 3000 or some such, a few times, and ticking goes away as
lash adjusters purge air/get proper.

> Or will they fill/bind again?
> Do I have geometry/valve height problem causing cam binding?

I don't know.  Unless you changed something to nonstock there should be
no problem...

Jack Tertadian
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 22:03:50 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1996+ TT cars DO HAVE a pressure sensor !

In a message dated 3/11/99 8:27:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
robby@swissonline.ch writes:

<< Does anybody know more about the use of this sensor (boost-dependant fuel
cut,
 etc.) ? >>

Emissions..  OBD-II equipped VR4's tend to set the check engine light off from
time to time due to the differential pressure sensor, but it does not affect
performance (no fuel cut:).

Mike
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 122
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 19:53:01 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Car cover

Mopar (Chrysler) makes one that is custom fitted for the Stealth. On a scale of 10 it's
about an 8...or you can go crazy and get something totally outrageous. In the end, it's
all up to you.

Darc

92 TT Stealth...mods: moderately Stealthy

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 20:41:47 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: boost question for jack T.  [ AKA xwing ]

What boost do you run at the track??  1/4 mile, with and without NOS,
 also what do you run on the street for daily driving and for street racing?
I'm trying to get a feel for what boost is practical for a daily driver and
what is maximum boost without a ground up rebuild [ eg. 10k to 15k dollars ]

Anyone else please respond also. I was interested in Jacks car because i've
seen his times posted and I've read his war stories.


Jim Berry                    ------93     "arrest me red" Stealth  TT -----
                   SSBC @  1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @ .034
                             G--Tech    0 --60  4.9 sec.    1/4  13.3 @ 110
                                               [ suspension mods next ]



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 21:55:56 +1100
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Smoked by a ZR1 -Reply

xwing wrote:
>
> Yasuna J. Murakami wrote: [snips]
>
> > Japanese car I really want for which I would sell 10 3000GT is mighty Nissan Skyline GTR.
> > stock form it could give many supercars a run for its money.
> > 1000 HP is widely avaliable. has real 4 wheel steering, all
> > wheel drive, with handling and balance to match.

Well as I mentioned a couple of weeks back I had a drive, then had a bit
of a race with a mate's GTR 33 Vspec which is stock . I run only 13 psi
& no other mods & my VR4 eats it for breakfast . I wouldn't swap my VR4
for any number of GTR's,... & as for styling ....they are a nice
"family" looking car.
Oh & by the way I know a bloke who is putting out 600hp from his GTR &
the engine mods have cost him $20k Aust ( about $13k US ) so work out
how much it would cost to get it to 1000 hp, I don't know how widely
available they are either. I never heard of one down here & there are
heaps of GTR's around.
Andrew
Australia
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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #122
****************************

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