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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 01:04:54
1999
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Subject: Team3S: anyone have pics
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owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
bulk
i need some pics so i cna do more research on my VR4 swap, does
anyone on
here have any pics, like detail pics of the engine, tranny,
it's mounts, the
differential, the rear and how it mounts? and are there any
differences
between the stealth r/t and 3000gt? thanx for the help, i know
it's an odd
request, but the help would be great thanx.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 02:23:38 1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Las Vegas Gatherings - Hotels, etc.
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 02:23:45
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Howdy Ho..
Okay, so far we have Me, Monica, Courtney, John
and AJ tagged to split a
room. If there are others, please email me
asap!
Friday evening, we will all connect at the Hard Rock Cafe at
8pm. Where in
the Hard Rock? I don't know.
Quincy?
Saturday, we will meet at the MGM Grand at 10am at the Wizard of
Oz big
circle exhibit. There is a wide list of things to do Friday and
Saturday,
and we will
probably all vote and decide on the activities
once we meet Friday.
If you haven't registered, or need more info on the
Vegas gathering (Nov.
5th, 6th, 7th), the url is:
http://www.goline.com/mmercy/nav/wcg.htmLos
Angeles caravan will be Friday in case there's enough interest.
Leaving
at
2pm SHARP!
Everything is still set and planned!. I'm going to do
one more advertising
push. If you're flying and haven't booked your
flights, do so asap!! This,
the last gathering of the century, is gonna
be a blast!
-= nav =-
"Look into my eyes...now give me my
prescription."
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 06:33:14 1999
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Content-Identifier: re: Seatbelt
Hop-Count: 1
Date:
Mon, 01 Nov 1999 07:52 -0600
From: Jeff A Williamson <
Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject:
Team3S: re: Seatbelt
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>Well, it's almost 7 years old, so my 93 Stealth's seatbelt
retractor
>thingies are well worn out, is there a simple fix(like WD40-ing
it?) and
>if so how do i get behind the plastic panel to get at
it?
>Or is it time to drag out the almost expired extended warranty
and fuss
>with the dodge dealer?
>TIA.
>-
--Rich
This has happened 3 times in the life of my '92 VR4. The first
time was before
the car was two years old, with 22K miles on it. The dealer
covered it under
the factory warranty. The second time happend at 6 years
and 97K miles. The
dealer also covered this under factory warranty. The last
time happend 11
months later at 105K miles, and the dealer covered this one
because the last
one lasted less than a year. In all 3 cases, there was no
hassle with the
dealer to fix it, and no money out of my pocket.
All
3 times they had to remove the plastic wall behind on the driver's seat
side
to get at the retractor mechanism. They replaced the entire seat belt unit
(retractor, belt, hook, etc.) each time. It sounds to me like there is a
design
flaw in the retractor mechanism (a spring or something), and
Mitsubishi knows
about it!
Jeff Williamson
Belleville,
MI
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 07:30:23 1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump voltage
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 16:32:32
+0100
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Hi,
We have talked about fuel pumps and how much they deliver
and how much they
cost many times before but as far as I can remember, we
have never talked
about how flow differs with Voltage at the pump.
If
you measure the available voltage at the battery with the engine running
you
should see 13.5-14 volts or so. If you then measure the voltage at the
pump
itself with the engine running it will be around 11.9 v and with the
fuel
pressure regulator loaded with boost pressure the voltage drops to 11.8
v.
Please note that I haven't measured these figures on a 3000gt, these
figures
are from an Eclipse. But I expect the figures to be equal on
our
cars.
This is two example how a fuel pump (NOT OUR PUMP) performs
at different
Voltage (and PSI)
150 lph @43psi @12v (120 lph @58psi
@12v)
210 lph @43psi @14v (170 lph @58psi @14v)
260 lph @43psi
@12v (220 lph @58psi @12v)
290 lph @43psi @14v (260 lph @58psi
@14v)
150 lph compared to 210 lph can be the difference of success or
failure.
Here's what I think is the solution:
New larger (how large?)
wires direct from the battery to the fuel pump. This
wire must be fused (how
many amp?) and connected to a relay. If we put the
relay close to the pump, I
guess we can use the old fuel pump voltage wire
to trigger the new
relay.
Is this a good idea???
BTW this also speaks against any
kind of under drive pulley I guess..
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nuFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 07:59:17 1999
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3000GT <
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Team3S: Defroster vents
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Hi All,
The defroster vents on my 92 VR4 are cracked.
It looks like it might be
difficult to replace them, perhaps involving the
removal of the
windshield.
Has anyone had any experience replacing
these? If so, can you offer any
advice?
JAT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 08:39:26 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Defroster vents
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they all crack near the left edge, replacement is futile
I
think it is just push on.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 08:50:33 1999
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To: "Dr. John A. Tabler" <
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3000GT <
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Defroster vents
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Dr. John A. Tabler wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
>
The defroster vents on my 92 VR4 are cracked. It looks like it might
be
> difficult to replace them, perhaps involving the removal of
the
> windshield.
> Has anyone had any experience replacing
these? If so, can you offer any
> advice?
>
>
JAT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmActaully,
they are held in place by 2 screws....under the dashboard. You
will have to
remove the dash to get to them. Mine were cracked when I
bought the car, and
I made it a condition of the sale that they replace
them. They weren't too
happy about having to pull the dash to do the
work. Good
luck!
Matt
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 10:33:14 1999
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Mon, 01 Nov 1999 10:33:06 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Re: Team3S: New A'PEXi SAVC-R installation
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Hi Jim,
Nice of you to help your buddy
out...
snip
> The biggest time-waster for us was attempting to
replace the stock 4-way
> hose junction above the rear turbo with a 3-way
tee included in the
> kit. After fighting to remove the wastegate
hoses and pulling up the
> 4-way junction, we found that A'PEXi's 3-way
tee had nipples too small
> for the stock hoses. So we returned the
stock junction and simply
> plugged the hose that used to connect to the
stock solonoid. Had we
> done this right off the bat it would have
made life much easier!
My kit had a small tee and it fit fine. My
'91 had small 1/8" inside diameter
hoses just about everywhere
though.
snip
> scramble switch so the orange wire was left
unused. We also decided to
> connect to IDC rather than RPM on the
ECU.
I've mentioned in several posts before (maybe that was to the
starnet list
though) that there will be problems connecting to the IDC wire
only. When IDC
maxes at 100%, the Apexi won't know the true RPM.
Learning will cease at any
RPM higher than when 100% IDC is attained.
Any display with RPM starts
generating bogus points on graphs or bogus
digital readouts.
I recommend connecting the "purple" wire to a
2-way toggle switch. Then connect
1 side to the RPM wire, the other to
IDC. That way you can leave the switch
normally on RPM, but switch over
to IDC whenever you want to monitor that.
Why Apexi just didn't provide
one wire for each :( I'll never know.
snip
> Initial settings were
.85 bar @ 50 BADC, which resulted in an overboost
> to 1.2 bar!
Yikes! Didn't feel like 1.2 bars, so I guess his knock
> sensor
works! :-| Backed it off to 35 BADC and it wouldn't peak
over
> .80 bar. Ended up with .95 bar @ 45 BADC... quite different
from my .95
> bar @ 72 BADC! Can't explain that one, since the
solonoids look
> identical. Momentary overboost to 1.05 is slightly
higher than my
> 1.02-03.
The new Apexi is remarkable. It
"learns" different duty values for each
different RPM range every
500 RPM. Typically, my minimum duty setting (around
3500 RPM) is about
47% for 1.0 kg/cm^2, but up to 76% at 5500 RPM for 1.0. When
set up
correctly, the entered duty value is just the starting point. The
Apexi
will learn actual settings required to maintain specified boost.
Also, the
intial duty setting MUST be low enough so you don't
overshoot. The Apexi won't
learn when boost overshoots specified
setting.
For max boost of 1.05 (I set boost at 1.0 with a bump to
1.05 between
4000-5000RPM), I usually set my initial duty setting to
40%. Then I make 3-6
WOT accels from 2K to redline. Then I turn
2nd gear learn off and allow 3rd
gear to "maintain" duty
settings.
Wish your friend good luck for me,
Ken
--
I'm just
driving this way to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 11:01:42 1999
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From: "Kevin Volkan" <
kevin@3si.zzn.com>
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To:
xwing@execpc.com, sirius 3000gt mail list
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: xfer case oil check
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I just checked the trans case on my 92 vr4 and it seemed to only
have drain and fill holes. What gives?
---- Begin Original Message
----
From: xwing <
xwing@execpc.com>
Sent: Sat, 23 Oct
1999 11:06:19 -0500
To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: xfer case oil
check
I believe the 1991 models had only 2 access holes: the drain
hole, and one fill hole.
The level was supposed to be set a bit BELOW the
fill hole, a difficult thing to do.
The 1992+ had 3 holes: drain, fill,
and CHECK on the driverside faceplate (a 14mm bolt
head);
fill till runs
out the check hole.
1994+ 6 speed (cast iron) xfer cases again have 2
holes: drain, and fill;
fill to the lower edge of hole.
Jack
Tertadian
Curt Gendron wrote:
> The picture in the newer
manuals are incorrect for the transfer case. The
> picture they show is
the 91-93 transfer case. They have three plugs. The
> 94+ iron transfer
cases only have two plugs, drain and fill/check.
> Curt
>
>
>Then I moved on to the xfer case. My manual shows a drain bolt
>
>(bottom), fill bolt (front) and inspection bolt (side), but I could
not
> >find the inspection bolt. Was it eliminated with the 2nd gen
xfer
> >cases? I have the '94 shop manual but perhaps it wasn't
updated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
---- End Original Message
----
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Nov 1 11:44:29 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Reply-To: robby@swissonline.ch
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel pump
voltage
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> We have
talked about fuel pumps and how much they deliver and how much they
> cost
many times before but as far as I can remember, we have never talked
>
about how flow differs with Voltage at the pump.
A well known discussion
on the DSM list :)
> Please note that I haven't measured these figures
on a 3000gt, these
> figures are from an Eclipse. But I expect the figures
to be equal on our
> cars.
>
> This is two example how a fuel
pump (NOT OUR PUMP) performs at different
> Voltage (and PSI)
> 150
lph @43psi @12v (120 lph @58psi @12v)
> 210 lph @43psi @14v
(170 lph @58psi @14v)
>
> 260 lph @43psi @12v (220 lph @58psi
@12v)
> 290 lph @43psi @14v (260 lph @58psi @14v)
Our pump is
rated to 190 lph@ 40psi (this is where the pumps are measured)
@
12V.
> 150 lph compared to 210 lph can be the difference of
success or failure.
At 15-17psi of boost fuel pressure is rised up to 60
psi. Our pump flows 125
lph@ 58psi at 12V. Of course the more the power to
the pump the better the flow
but you must also consider the larger
temperature the pump is producing. But I
guess 14V are not a problem.
Kenne-Bells Boost-A-Pump is a good device that
increases the voltage to the
pump when it is needed.
> Here's what I think is the solution:
>
New larger (how large?) wires direct from the battery to the fuel pump.
This
> wire must be fused (how many amp?) and connected to a relay. If we
put the
> relay close to the pump, I guess we can use the old fuel pump
voltage wire
> to trigger the new relay.
Sure, why not. But you may
short the pump relay that switches the voltage. The
larger pump I have is not
hearable unless the relay switches and it runs on
battery voltage. The sound
is like a whining in the rear but not a big problem.
People say that the
Denso pumps are less noisier than the Walbros and therefore
a Walbro pump
running at 14V when cruising around would be very annoying :(
> Is
this a good idea???
Sure, I've done this on the Camaro as it was easy but
the connector on the 3S is
not that great. I even think that the voltage
should be also checked at the
front relay. Maybe just running larger, or
better wires from this relay to the
pump will help.
> BTW this also
speaks against any kind of under drive pulley I guess..
Yep
:-)
Some more calc : Theoretically, at 17 psi with all the fuel needed to
cool the
chamber to prevent knock, a fuel flow of around 200 lph@58psi is
needed. If we
would say that 14V increases the flow from 125 lph to 175 lph
... it's still not
enough for 17 psi :-( Therefore, bigger pump is a must and
then, maybe the power
is not that important anymore.
Just my 2 cents
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 15:32:52 1999
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From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@ij.net>
To: "Dr.
John A. Tabler"
<jtabler@summitmicro.com>,
"3000GT" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Defroster vents
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 18:40:28 -0500
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Precedence: bulk
The vents in my
'91 cracked this year. The book shows that they press into
place, but
when I tried to pry one off, I found a screw head on one end. I
quit at
that point. As I saw posted earlier, they are held in by at least
two
screws, requiring a lot of work to replace. I didn't want the
immense
trouble of disassembly and possibility of squeaks, so I super glued
the vent
down. The crack is still there, but hardly noticeable.
Recommend you find
a super glue injector such as a hypodermic needle to put
the glue in place.
I used a tube with a long tip, but still ended up with a
small bit of glue
on the windshield. Hold in place for a longer time
than the tube
recommends. The first two times didn't hold until I kept
it in place for
about 5 minutes. The second crack (other end) was
repaired the first time
by holding in place with a phone book for about 10
minutes. Just watch the
glue, it gets everywhere!
Pete
'91
VR4
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dr. John A. Tabler
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 10:59 AM
To:
3000GT
Subject: Team3S: Defroster vents
Hi All,
The defroster
vents on my 92 VR4 are cracked. It looks like it might be
difficult to
replace them, perhaps involving the removal of the
windshield.
Has anyone
had any experience replacing these? If so, can you offer
any
advice?
JAT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 1 16:34:23 1999
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From:
"Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
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Subject: Team3S: Changing
plugs
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 18:32:50 -0500
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Hello,
I am getting ready to change my plugs,
I plan to run 14-15psi of boost
on my 92 Stealth R/T -
TT
I would like to make sure that this is the correct
information:
part number: NGK PFR6J-11
gap of .034" for
15psi
Will I need any new gaskets or special tools to change all 6 plugs?
- The
front 3 plugs look very easy, however the back 3 look very difficult -
any
tips/tricks??
Any help would be appreciated!
Thank you
-
Eddie
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 1 17:46:25 1999
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From: "Kevin"
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To: "Eddie"
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<19991101054319.23214.qmail@hotmail.com>
<013a01bf24c1$6d0cb2a0$0300000a@superservers.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Changing plugs
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 20:42:36 -0500
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Check out these instructions given from Brian at GT Pro. I
used them last
week, went very well and I can not think of anything I would
add.
START BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
The easiest way to do it will be to first
remove the rear I/C pipe
completely to get more room. Now remove the EGR pipe
to manifold connection
where it meets the manifold, but only remove one bolt
completely and make
the other one really loose. What this will do is release
the stainless
gasket that is in there and this way you can "swing the
gasket around and
not have it drop into the "black void", never to
be found again. Now remove
the bolt attatching the rear manifold with the
engine pick-up bracket
located near the drivers side, and also the same
bracket on the passenger
side. Loosen, but do NOT remove the Y-pipe, just
loosen it up and remove
ONLY the two rubber I/C pipes connected to it, them
swing the Y-pipe upwards
carefully to make room to move the manifold. Now
remove the two 10mm bolts
that hold the throttle cable and move it to the
side. Remove the two 10mm
bolts that hold the three connector plugs to the
manifold that sit next to
the Y-pipe. Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the
front injector loom to the
manifold. NOW you can remove the main manifold
bolts to remove the manifold.
You can now lift the manifold up. Use a prop to
hold the manifold up and
tilted to the passenges side, and this will give you
just enough room to get
the plugs out and changed. I would reccomened a new
gasket for the intake
manifold at this time. Now just reverse the steps. One
trick though, put the
manifold down on the lower manifold, but don't bolt it
down yet, put in the
EGR pipe FIRST, the reason being is that with the
manifold "loose" you can
move it a bit to line up the EGR holes,
put one bolt in first with the
gasket tilted up so you can hold it from
falling, then once you have the
first bolt in a few turns, then swing the
gasket around and install the
other bolt. NOW do the rest, and you'll be
done!!
END BRIAN'S INSTRUCTIONS
Hope it helps,
Kevin
Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars,
check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under
construction---------------
----- Original Message -----
From: Eddie
<stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 1999 6:32
PM
Subject: Team3S: Changing plugs
>
Hello,
> I am getting ready to change my plugs, I
plan to run 14-15psi of boost
> on my 92 Stealth R/T -
TT
>
> I would like to make sure that this
is the correct information:
>
> part number: NGK PFR6J-11
>
gap of .034" for 15psi
>
> Will I need any new gaskets or
special tools to change all 6 plugs? - The
> front 3 plugs look very easy,
however the back 3 look very difficult - any
>
tips/tricks??
>
> Any help would be appreciated!
>
>
Thank you -
> Eddie
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 1 20:10:32 1999
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From:
"CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
To: "3000 list"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Off Topic: Ground
Control webpage
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 1999 21:06:07 -0700
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Will someone please give me the Ground Control website
URL?
Thanks,
Cory E
96 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 2 00:19:54 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Off Topic:
Ground Control webpage
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:21:58 +0100
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----- Original Message -----
From: CEskelsen
<cesk@redrock.net>
>Will someone please give me the Ground Control
website URL?
http://www.ground-control.com/
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu
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is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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From:
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to
'94+)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:46:23 -0600
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After the
Drivers School a few weeks ago, I was surprised at the amount of
brake dust
on the rear wheels. They must really be contributing to
overall
braking!!!!
I'm wondering if I were to upgrade my rear brake
calipers from '91(single
piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers, would it cause
me any braking problems
if I leave the front unchanged??
Also, when
looking for rotors, I noticed they list different part numbers
for the two
different years. This leads me to believe that they are
different
sizes.
I would then have to upgrade the rotors and the
calipers.
Keep in mind that I can't change the fronts because of wheel
clearance
problems.
Does anyone see problems with
this??
Thanks,
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager:
612-601-0881
Email:
Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 2 08:03:29 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To:
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)"
<MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear brake change
('91 to '94+)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:08:32 -0600
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Yes! The Rears on the 94+ are about 1/4" larger in diameter and
about 1/8"
thicker. The wheels clear both ways. The
only modification you need will
be to cut/remove the dust
shield.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Wendlandt, Mark
(MN51)
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 9:46
AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Rear brake change
('91 to '94+)
After the Drivers School a few weeks ago, I was surprised
at the amount of
brake dust on the rear wheels. They must really be
contributing to overall
braking!!!!
I'm wondering if I were to upgrade
my rear brake calipers from '91(single
piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers,
would it cause me any braking problems
if I leave the front
unchanged??
Also, when looking for rotors, I noticed they list different
part numbers
for the two different years. This leads me to believe that they
are
different sizes.
I would then have to upgrade the rotors and the
calipers.
Keep in mind that I can't change the fronts because of wheel
clearance
problems.
Does anyone see problems with
this??
Thanks,
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager: 612-601-0881
Email:
Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 2 08:03:50 1999
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From:
"Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Reply: Road Racing
prep
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 11:03:32 -0500
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Just a few notes
old poop:
The new carbon fiber hood from GT-PRO will allow for a front
strut brace
which could be of significant help to our beasts.
Get
those racing seats. In addition to a inexpensive (relatively) way to
lose a
good amount of weight I can't imagine you auto-x in a our stock
seats? I'd
imagine your all over the place. It also really doesn't take away
from the
streetability...takes me about 10 minutes to change my drivers
front seat to
a race seat and yank the passenger seat out. Same goes for
the
reverse.
Finally, maybe you should consider 13gs. In a
conversation with Mr. JT he
told me the 13g's housing is really the same as
the 9bs, just different
guts. So unless your dealership was specifically
fixing one of the turbos
(which shouldn't be an issue with fresh ones) they
won't notice. Even if
they were working on the turbos, they would have to
specifically try to
figure out that they were not 9b's and know the tag
codes. Perhaps if they
did found out (seriously doubt it) you could claim
they were stock...the
Euro specs have 13gs, and the 13gs are straight from
Mitsubishi. Your going
to be way out of the 9b's efficiency zone, especially
after you buy that
manual boost controller. Plus of course the added benefit
of boost to the
redline. Only downer is that eventually the upgrade bug might
bite ya in the
butt for 15gs.
Gavin
-----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:stealth@starnet.net]
Sent: Saturday,
October 30, 1999 10:14 PM
To: merritt@cedar-rapids.net;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Re: Road
Racing prep
Yep. I attribute all my success to the car. I just hang on
for dear life,
but I'll be playing with the big boys soon.
>>
blah blah blah big post blah blah
>>
ending....
Thanks.
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 2 08:46:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:29:22 -0600
To: "Wendlandt, Mark
(MN51)"
<MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91
to '94+)
In-Reply-To:
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>After the
Drivers School a few weeks ago, I was surprised at the amount of
>brake
dust on the rear wheels. They must really be contributing to
overall
>braking!!!! I'm wondering if I were to upgrade my rear brake
calipers from
'91(single
>piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers, would it
cause me any braking problems
>if I leave the front unchanged??
I
wonder if the newer rear brake calipers help all that much. The rear pads
on
1st gens are much bigger and thicker than the 2nd gens, and I know
that
MY rear brakes don't work for squat. I've heard the same complaint
from
other 2nd gens. The older pads are bigger. by about 50%, it seems -- I
know
because Porterfield sent me the wrong set and, compared to 2nd gens,
they
are longer and thicker.
Brad says: " The Rears on the 94+
are about 1/4" larger in diameter and
about
1/8"
thicker. The wheels clear both ways." Makes
sense. The thicker rotor
also means a thinner pad and less pad
material.
If your rears are actually working, maybe what you oughta do is
just get a
set of Porterfield R4 pads for the rears, and leave the calipers
the way
they are. Maybe what *I* oughta do is install a set of 1st gen rear
brakes.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 2 08:46:57 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:39:13 -0600
To: "Wallis, Gavin"
<WallisG@MWAA.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Reply: Road Racing
prep
In-Reply-To:
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>
>The
new carbon fiber hood from GT-PRO will allow for a front strut
brace
>which could be of significant help to our beasts.
Aha!
That's good to know.
>
>Get those racing seats. In addition to a
inexpensive (relatively) way to
>lose a good amount of weight I can't
imagine you auto-x in a our stock
>seats?
Yes, but not often. Just
to keep my hand in.
Compared to open track, auto-X is a waste of a Sunday
afternoon.
I'd imagine your all over the place. It also really doesn't
take away
>from the streetability...takes me about 10 minutes to change my
drivers
>front seat to a race seat and yank the passenger seat out. Same
goes for the
>reverse.
Good point. What seat do you use?
>
>Finally, maybe you should consider 13gs <snip>.
I
appreciate your comments, but I'm saving 13Gs for next year.
The car is
already faster than I am. I just need about 400 hp to keep up
with the faster
cars in my next class. There are several inferior cars out
there with a
higher top end (C5s, for example), so I need the additonal hp
to catch 'em on
straights.
But I don't want to build a car that's so fast I will get
myself in
trouble. I'm hanging on for dear life as it is, and I have to
improve my
braking and driving skills before I consider going up to 550 or
600 hp.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 2 14:51:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 14:48:16
-0800
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
General Atomics - Fusion Group
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To: Jeff
<spydervr4@home.com>
CC: Sirius <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
Todd Day <today@tmo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II
Scan software
References:
<3819D687.5A10C4DA@gat.com>
<020601bf225f$41cb1910$f4320418@grlnd1.tx.home.com>
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(Todd, Re:
3000GT/Stealth)
Well then, for '94-95 cars, it sounds like the next step
is to see if Todd can
supply someone with a Datalogger with the new style
connector. How about it
Todd, are you up for a little R&D? If
it really only requires a different
connector, then the work should be
relatively easy. How much arm-twisting do
you need;)? I'm sure
there are plenty of folks willing to beta test it on their
'94-95
cars.
> I don't know exactly what protocol Mitsubishi used in the
'94-95 cars, but
> under my hood it says "OBDI Certified" and
the EASE OBD-II scanner didn't
> work on any of the 3 OBDII protocols it
tried. What I'm wondering is will a
> scanner like the TMO
datalogger (www.tmo.com) work on the car with a
> different
connector. Unfortunately I will never know because I have already
>
bought a Snap-On MT2500. I need to chase down a Snap-On truck and buy
the
> OBDII connector for it and see if it works with my MT2500's old '92
Import
> ROM. If it does, then it would probably be worthwhile for
someone to disect
> a scanner like the TMO logger and try to get it to
work but I haven't done
> it yet, so don't go cutting up your $300
datalogger quite yet:)
>
> jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder
VR-4
> '90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
--
I'm just driving this way
to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 2 15:21:39 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To:
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Reply: Road Racing prep
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:09:00
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bulk
13gs will not give you 550-600. It will just let you make good
power to
redline.
Just get a good boost controller and hide it or remove
solenoid when you
bring
it in for service. I have a few mods, and so
far no problems from dealer.
I can
not run away from a C5
though!
Sam 95 VR4 K&N, HKS SSBOV, Stillen DP, Apex
AVCr,
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: Wallis, Gavin <WallisG@MWAA.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Reply: Road Racing
prep
>>
>>The new carbon fiber hood from GT-PRO will
allow for a front strut brace
>>which could be of significant help to
our beasts.
>
>Aha! That's good to know.
>>
>>Get
those racing seats. In addition to a inexpensive (relatively) way
to
>>lose a good amount of weight I can't imagine you auto-x in a our
stock
>>seats?
>
>Yes, but not often. Just to keep my hand
in.
>Compared to open track, auto-X is a waste of a Sunday
afternoon.
>
>I'd imagine your all over the place. It also really
doesn't take away
>>from the streetability...takes me about 10 minutes
to change my drivers
>>front seat to a race seat and yank the passenger
seat out. Same goes for
the
>>reverse.
>
>Good point.
What seat do you use?
>>
>>Finally, maybe you should consider
13gs <snip>.
>
>I appreciate your comments, but I'm saving
13Gs for next year.
>
>The car is already faster than I am. I just
need about 400 hp to keep up
>with the faster cars in my next class. There
are several inferior cars out
>there with a higher top end (C5s, for
example), so I need the additonal hp
>to catch 'em on
straights.
>
>But I don't want to build a car that's so fast I will
get myself in
>trouble. I'm hanging on for dear life as it is, and I have
to improve my
>braking and driving skills before I consider going up to
550 or 600 hp.
>
>Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Datalogger &
OBD II Scan software
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 18:38:57 -0700
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I asked this
question of Todd a few years back. Supposedly the protocol is
different
for the 94-95 cars. This was the same story told me by two
different
ODBII diagnostic tool manufacturers.
The latter two individuals claimed
that it would be possible to reverse
engineer the protocol but would take
some effort and they simply had no
market payback.
At that time Todd
didn't seem too interested. So, I dropped the whole
endeavor. If
someone else can come up with something for the newer ECMs it
would surely be
great.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> (Todd, Re: 3000GT/Stealth)
>
> Well
then, for '94-95 cars, it sounds like the next step is to
> see if Todd
can
> supply someone with a Datalogger with the new style
connector.
> How about it
> Todd, are you up for a little
R&D? If it really only requires a different
> connector, then
the work should be relatively easy. How much
> arm-twisting
do
> you need;)? I'm sure there are plenty of folks willing to
beta
> test it on their
> '94-95 cars.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 2 17:51:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 02
Nov 1999 17:50:50 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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CC: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger &
OBD II Scan software
References:
<002201bf259c$3226e940$88c10118@home.com>
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Perhaps Jeff
would be willing to contact Snap-on. Since he paid for an
expensive
scan tool that works with his "OBD I" '95 car, maybe he has some
clout
and can get some info on the actual protocol they use.
Does
anybody have any idea how we could get the protocol info from
Mitsubishi?
"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> I asked
this question of Todd a few years back. Supposedly the protocol is
>
different for the 94-95 cars. This was the same story told me by
two
> different ODBII diagnostic tool manufacturers.
>
> The
latter two individuals claimed that it would be possible to reverse
>
engineer the protocol but would take some effort and they simply had no
>
market payback.
>
> At that time Todd didn't seem too
interested. So, I dropped the whole
> endeavor. If someone
else can come up with something for the newer ECMs it
> would surely be
great.
--
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 2 19:36:20 1999
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From: "Jim
Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)"
<MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, "Merritt"
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
References:
<3.0.5.32.19991102102922.007e8330@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 19:34:14
-0800
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It would be interesting to know how much stopping the rears
contribute to the
overall braking. Now that I have the Porsche/Brembo combo
with the Pagid
black pads I would guess it's probably 80/20 front/rear. Brad
recommended
converting to the 94+ rears --- the two piston calipers probably
have constantly
more stopping power [ twice the clamping force ], the
question is, how much
do you need or how much is wasted.
Someone I
talked to mentioned a Vette system [ Excess systems ??? ] that uses
two
calipers per rotor, one front one rear. I have no idea how you would
cool
these systems once you got them hot plus the unsprung weight gets
excessive.
BTY someone asked [ Merrit I think ] if you could put the
front four piston caliper
on the rear. I played around a little and feel that
it can be done but you would have
to completely remove the rear rotor and E
brake and put the front rotor and caliper
on the rear. That would require an
adapter to mount the caliper, not a big deal,
and some kind of mechanical
spot caliper [ Wilwood sells one for $70 ] plus it's
attendant brackets and
linkage, a fairly big deal. It would be an interesting
project, but,
can the additional braking force be utilized.
Jim
Berry
> >After the Drivers School a few weeks ago,
I was surprised at the amount of
> >brake dust on the rear
wheels. They must really be contributing to overall
>
>braking!!!! I'm wondering if I were to upgrade my rear brake calipers
from
> '91(single
> >piston) to '94+(2 piston) calipers, would it
cause me any braking problems
> >if I leave the front
unchanged??
>
> I wonder if the newer rear brake calipers help all
that much. The rear pads
> on 1st gens are much bigger and thicker
than the 2nd gens, and I know that
> MY rear brakes don't work for squat.
I've heard the same complaint from
> other 2nd gens. The older pads are
bigger. by about 50%, it seems -- I know
> because Porterfield sent me the
wrong set and, compared to 2nd gens, they
> are longer and
thicker.
>
> Brad says: " The Rears on the 94+ are about
1/4" larger in diameter and
> about 1/8"
>
thicker. The wheels clear both ways." Makes sense. The
thicker rotor
> also means a thinner pad and less pad material.
>
> If your rears are actually working, maybe what you oughta do is just
get a
> set of Porterfield R4 pads for the rears, and leave the calipers
the way
> they are. Maybe what *I* oughta do is install a set of 1st gen
rear brakes.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 2 21:47:32 1999
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From: "CEskelsen"
<cesk@redrock.net>
To: "3000 list"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch failure?
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 22:43:10 -0700
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I have never experienced a clutch failure and am wondering if my car
has an
ailing clutch or something else. If I accelerate at a reasonable
rate, the
car runs normally. If I am enjoying my on-ramp experience, my
car
"stutters," especially at the high torque range (3,500 to 5,000
rpms). Any
opinions are greatly apperciated.
Cory Eskelsen
96
R/T TT
60k (service completed two weeks ago)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 3 00:52:50 1999
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From:
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Knock again
Date:
Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:55:02 +0100
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Hi,
In what RPM range do our cars knock the most? Torque
peak?
I have been recommended to turn knock sensor off over 4500
rpm's
(programmable after market system) does that sound
dangerous?
Also heard that HKS sells a very good knock sensor/warning
device (cost
~280$). It's also possible to plug in an ear phone into the
device and
listen at different frequencies while driving. Anybody tested
this?
/Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 3 01:17:19 1999
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From:
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To:
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Subject: Team3S: Ignition
system
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 10:19:30 +0100
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Hi,
I'm investigating a new ignition and fuel injection
system for my car but
I'm not really sure what to look for when it comes to
the ignition part.
For example one of the systems I'm looking at, say
that they have 120 mJ
spark energy at the plugs and the coils are always
loaded to 8.5 break amps
and that's enough to run .5 to .6 gap on the plugs
up to 2 bar boost (3 bar
map sensor). I have no idea if this is true or
not.
I would like to hear numbers (voltage, amp, mJ etc) both for our
stock
system and also (and more important) our wish list.
What kind of
numbers would our dream ignition system have???? I really need
more knowledge
about this.
/Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 3 06:46:03 1999
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From: "O'Krancy,
Michael" <mokrancy@renaissance.ca>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: WANTED: Bra for
a 91 stealth twin turbo.
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 07:46:03 -0700
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Does anyone have a bra for a 91 stealth twin turbo for sale or
know of any
vendors that I could purchase one from? I'd prefer a new
one so vendor
names would be greatly
appreciated.
thanks
mike
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 3 07:30:50 1999
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From:
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To: "'CEskelsen'"
<cesk@redrock.net>
Cc: 3000 list
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch
failure?
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 07:29:31 -0800
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Cory...
PLEASE don't cross post to the starnet list and our
list. Send separate
messages. Thanks.
On your clutch question...clutch
failure is usually signaled by slipping.
You would normally experience
increasing revs, with less than normal
increase in speed. This usually occurs
under load.
Stuttering, missing, etc. is more likely related to your
ignition system
(plugs, wires, etc.). I tend to be VERY suspicious when
problems start
happening after dealer servicing. Of course, they rarely admit
any
involvement in the problem and are more than willing to charge you
to
diagnose the problem.
I suggest you pull your front plugs, check
the gap. Check to see that the
spark plug wire boots are
seated.
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original
Message-----
From: CEskelsen [mailto:cesk@redrock.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
November 02, 1999 9:43 PM
To: 3000 list; stealth@starnet.net
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch failure?
I have never experienced a clutch failure and
am wondering if my car has an
ailing clutch or something else. If I
accelerate at a reasonable rate, the
car runs normally. If I am
enjoying my on-ramp experience, my car
"stutters," especially at
the high torque range (3,500 to 5,000 rpms). Any
opinions are greatly
apperciated.
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
60k (service completed two
weeks ago)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 3 08:28:08 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
WANTED: Bra for a 91 stealth twin turbo.
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:42:28
-0600
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I was looking into getting a bra for my 3000 for long distance trips
(I
drive up to Chicago every now and then, and the front end of my car
looks
like a fly swatter that went through an insects nest afterwards
:). I was
at the dealer picking up my car from an oil change, and they
had them right
there on their parts department shelf. Said their about
$150. So I'd check
with a dealer in yer area and see if they have / can
get them.
Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 3 14:44:52 1999
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From: "Greg Gonzales"
<greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Car Alarm and Turbo timer
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 14:44:24
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Does any one
have both a turbo timer and an aftermarket car alarm
installed on their
car?
Do I need to install the T-timer before? Is it possible to do it
after
the alarm is installed?
How will that work if the car is still
running and I set the alarm?
Any suggestions are welcome
TIA
Greg
92 RT TT
______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
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From:
"Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: "Sirius"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<3819D687.5A10C4DA@gat.com>
<020601bf225f$41cb1910$f4320418@grlnd1.tx.home.com>
<381A3051.6955F009@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD
II Scan software
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 18:58:39 -0500
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I don't know exactly what protocol Mitsubishi used in the '94-95
cars, but
under my hood it says "OBDI Certified" and the EASE
OBD-II scanner didn't
work on any of the 3 OBDII protocols it tried.
What I'm wondering is will a
scanner like the TMO datalogger (www.tmo.com)
work on the car with a
different connector. Unfortunately I will never
know because I have already
bought a Snap-On MT2500. I need to chase
down a Snap-On truck and buy the
OBDII connector for it and see if it works
with my MT2500's old '92 Import
ROM. If it does, then it would probably
be worthwhile for someone to disect
a scanner like the TMO logger and try to
get it to work but I haven't done
it yet, so don't go cutting up your $300
datalogger quite yet:)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90
Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken
Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: Jeff
<spydervr4@home.com>
Cc: Sirius
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 6:40
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
>
This is a bummer. You're saying that Mitsu used a standard OBD I
protocol
for
> years '91-'93, and ISO standard OBD II for '96+
(late '95+), but used a
> non-standard or proprietary protocol for
'94-'95? Do you know what the
'94-'95
> protocol is? Is it
OBD I protocol with an OBD II connector? Can we use
an OBD
> I
scan tool just by changing the connector?
>
> This is bad news since
I plan to upgrade my '91 to a '94-'95. This is
good info
> for
the FAQ when we sort it out...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 3 19:57:53 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Nov 1999 22:54:28 -0500
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From: Rick D
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Subject: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan
software
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Hey
guys,
I called Miller special tools today and asked them if they sold a
DRB II
connector that would plug into my 94 Stealth. According to my
Mopar FSM
the 94 Stealth uses a DRB II for diagnostics. However,
according to Miller
there is no such cable.
My car has the same
diagnostic connector (DLC) as the 99 cars. They refer
to it as the OBD
II data link connector. Even though according to the MDS
my car is OBD
I spec. Anyhow, he said the only way to diagnose the car is
with the
DRB III.
I currently have the Chrysler DRB II with the Mitsubishi
adapter. I can
hook up to any 91-93 Stealths/Vr-4's and 90-93
Eclipse/Talons. But
apparently it does me no good on the 94
and up cars. (even though the
cartridge in it reads
"83-94")
I am in the process of taking some old DRB cables I
have laying around and
I am going to try to fabricate a connector for
it. If it works I'll let
you all know.
Regards,
Rick
Diogo
94 Stealth R/T turbo
6 speed
AWD,AWS,ECS, Climate Control
A/C
Pearl Yellow
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Thu Nov 4 09:43:02 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 11:40:19
-0600
Subject: Team3S: New APEXi AVC-R Unit
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Hey
all:
I managed to snap some digital shots of my new APEXi AVC-R unit
install
and a couple of the unit itself. I cannot send them out form
here, but
if someone wants to post them on their site, let me know and I'm
happy to
forward them on from work.
Best
regards,
Scott
___________________________________________________________________
Get
the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free
Internet access for a month!
Try Juno Web:
http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj.
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page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 19:00:06
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition
system
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> For example
one of the systems I'm looking at, say that they have 120 mJ
> spark
energy at the plugs and the coils are always loaded to 8.5 break amps
>
and that's enough to run .5 to .6 gap on the plugs up to 2 bar boost (3
bar
> map sensor). I have no idea if this is true or not.
Yes, this
is what B&M also told us and the result was ... nothing ! The
energy
highly depends on the wires and plugs and how well the plug boots are
isolated.
The later is very important as this could create a short between to
the heads
and causes misfires then.
The energy is not given in
Milli-Joules but in Mega-Joule. Just remember the
energy we are use for
living is in the hundreds of kiloJoule area.
> I would like to hear
numbers (voltage, amp, mJ etc) both for our stock
> system and also (and
more important) our wish list.
No chance. Have a look at the electrical
part of the manual and you can see how
the system works as they show some
nice diagrams there :) The spark ignites when
the power transistor closes.
This creates a very high voltage spike at the
primary winding of the coil.
This then causes the output of the coil (secondary
winding) to create a real
high pulse to the spark by the induction.
> What kind of numbers would
our dream ignition system have???? I really need
> more knowledge about
this.
Me too :) The main goal is that the coil is getting fully saturated
when the
current flows (i.e. the ignition power transistor switched on) This
will not
cause the spark to fire ! When the transistor turns off, the
potential changes
and this causes a the high voltage spike (about 400 volts)
that is getting
inducted to the secondary side.
Now, on our ignition
system, there are some limits. First the power transistors
that may not flow
enough current and a Zener diode that limits the voltage peak
to 400V. The
later is necessary as the transistors may got damaged due to
this.
Furthermore, our coils may just not got mroe saturated and therefore
any
increase in voltage or current flow may cause just nothing.
Of
course, any aftermarket system that uses its own ignition system and
specific
coils, should be ok. Ours is just not built for more but,
unfortunately, we
don't know how the other stuff would work on our cars
!
No, there are no figures that can give us some lead into the right
direction.
The only thing we can do is .. try and error :-( The physics tells
you how much
energy is used to fully ignite the mixture in the chamber. Here
you have soooo
many variables where highly experienced engineers are working
on to find the
optimum. Even the plugs could then be fully wrong and you need
other range and
no platinums. The gap plays a rule as well as the wires
resistance and other
stuff we may already forgot.
I'm working on the
ignition side for a solution but I didn't knew that the high
spike at the
primary side causes the spark on the other. So the first design I
got was not
working as it surpressed the spike. Now the next design will
consists of fast
acting systems that should be able to flow more current to be
able to more
saturize the coil(s) as well as a higher limit of about 600 or 800V
for
the spike. This will then result in a higher output energy.
Theoretically
it works but we'll see if the test will
too.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 4 10:09:05 1999
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Message-ID:
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From:
"Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<01d801bf25dc$899c06c0$e20aa8c0@internal.corechange.se>
<3821C9A6.9F07E6E0@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Plugs
(again)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 12:07:20 -0500
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List,
I went down to my local parts store to
pick up the NGK PFR6J-11 plugs.
They said that NGK has discontinued them.. -
Is this true?
In any case, they have some Champion
7071 (also double platinum plugs)
$5.99 a piece. - Should I get these? -
Would the gap still be .034" for
approx.
15psi?
Thanks!!
Eddie
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 4 10:19:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 13:08:57 -0500
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Rick Diogo
<rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbos for
sale
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Pair of
brand new (in the Mitsubishi Boxes) turbos for a 94
Vr-4/Stealth.
These turbos are new and have never been installed on a
vehicle. They
list for over $2,500 for the pair.
Best reasonable offer gets
them.
rick@ceo-consulting.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 4 13:15:06 1999
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Message-ID: <0.75cad255.2553513e@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 4 Nov
1999 16:14:38 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
To:
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hand brake is a
drum inside the rotor, so you can use any caliper you can fit
in the
rear
two pistons do not provide any additional clamping force at all.
they are
just a bit more rigid and apply uniform force. it is the piston
diameter, and
to an extent the pad area which matters. assuming same rotor
dia.
front calipers would be superb.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 4 13:30:32 1999
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From:
"Perry Glover" <pglover@bznet.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wanted!!!!!!! Set of
1993 3000 GT VR4 Chrome wheels ( 17" chrome wheels)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov
1999 16:25:53 -0500
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Hello,
I am looking to purchase a set (4) of chrome wheels
found on the 91-93
3000Gt VR4 model. I live in Richmond,VA.
Please
provide any information on where to look on the web or names of
someone
selling these wheels.
You can email me at
pglover@bznet.com
Thanks,
Perry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 4 14:41:12 1999
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Message-ID: <004001bf2715$9035baa0$140100b6@monster>
Reply-To:
"Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: C's Short shifter...
G-Force ECU
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:40:13 -0500
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Couple of quick
questions:
Has anybody ever installed a G-Force
ECU
in a non-turbo? Is it worthwhile?
Where
can I get a C's short shifter? I can't seem
to find a vendor anywhere
on the web....
Thanx...
Gil
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 4 15:13:29 1999
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Date: Thu, 04 Nov 1999 15:13:08
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
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To: Gil Gomes
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: C's Short shifter... G-Force ECU
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> Where can I get a C's short
shifter? I can't seem
> to find a vendor anywhere on the
web....
Dave Buschur at http://www.buschurracing.com sells his short
shifters for $75.
--
I'm just driving this way to piss you
off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 4 17:57:23 1999
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From: "Jim
Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <Muratokcu@aol.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<0.75cad255.2553513e@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change
('91 to '94+)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 1999 17:54:07 -0800
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> hand brake is a drum inside the rotor, so you can use any
caliper you can fit
> in the
rear
>=====================================================
The
front caliper requires the slightly larger rotor which would preclude the
use
of the rear E brake.
=========================================================
> two
pistons do not provide any additional clamping force at all. they are
>
just a bit more rigid and apply uniform force. it is the piston diameter, and
> to an extent the pad area which matters. assuming same rotor
dia.
>=======================================================
I
assumed that two pistons would have twice the area of a single piston ---
not
necessarily correct but I'm sure the dual piston has more area then
the
single piston. More area equal more clamping
force.
==================================================
> front
calipers would be superb.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Jim
Berry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 04:49:27 1999
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From:
"Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Ken Middaugh"
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>, "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
Cc:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: C's Short shifter...
G-Force ECU
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 06:49:02 -0600
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> > Where can I get a C's short
shifter? I can't seem
> > to find a vendor anywhere on the
web....
>
> Dave Buschur at http://www.buschurracing.com sells his
short shifters for
$75.
> --
Just be aware that the Bushur
shifter is merely a stock shifter that has
been shortened above the pivot
point.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 5 07:05:54 1999
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From:
"Ricardo Cousar" <rcousar@datawest.net>
To: "Sirius
3000GT Mail List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tranny parts
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 14:53:57 -0600
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I have some good
news about bearings and seals for our trannies. I believe I
can match up some
bearings and some of the seals from the tranny if anyone
has any extra set of
bearings or if you have a bad tranny they would like to
get fixed? Please let
me know. Last year I got my tranny rebuilt and some of
the seals were
replaced, also while going through the whole agonizing
process I found
sources that might benefit us all. If you would like any
information or any
assistance please let me know. Also, does anyone know
how man
vendors sell Y-Pipes? Thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 5 07:23:00 1999
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From:
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To:
Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 99 3000gt VR4 parts car
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 09:22:23 -0600
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FYI, found this
on the web:
http://www.msrecycling.com/1960.html
I called about
the drive train and front end components. The car has 8000mi
on
her. They prices were really high. $6000 for tranny, xfer case,
drive
shaft and rear end. I've seen the package priced around $3000 but
with a
few more miles. It also sounded like they wanted to sell complete
front clip
and not split it up.
Maybe someone else will have better
luck.
Have
fun!
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager:
612-601-0881
Email:
Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 09:04:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 09:04:38
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
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To: Ricardo
Cousar <rcousar@datawest.net>
CC: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny
parts
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Hi
Ricardo,
>
> I have some good news about bearings and seals for
our trannies. I believe I
> can match up some bearings and some of the
seals from the tranny if anyone
> has any extra set of bearings or if you
have a bad tranny they would like to
> get fixed? Please let me know. Last
year I got my tranny rebuilt and some of
> the seals were replaced, also
while going through the whole agonizing
> process I found sources that
might benefit us all. If you would like any
> information or any
assistance please let me know.
Certainly more sources will
be a good thing for us. Currently, MD Auto sells a
Timken bearing kit
with 8 bearings for $225, and the 6 OEM seals for tranny &
transfer for
$175. I would think you can buy the seals cheaper directly from
one of
the discount Mitsu dealers though.
> Also, does anyone know
>
how many vendors sell Y-Pipes? Thanks.
Dave Buschur at
http://www.buschurracing.com is one.
--
I'm just driving this way to
piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 09:36:04 1999
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From: "Kevin
Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
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To: Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com, ricardo cousar
<rcousar@datawest.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: Tranny parts
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Is this for the VR-4 Getrags or the SL and base model
trans?
kevin
---- Begin Original Message ----
From: Ken
Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Sent: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 09:04:38
-0800
To: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@datawest.net>
CC: Sirius 3000GT
Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny
parts
Hi Ricardo,
>
> I have some good news about
bearings and seals for our trannies. I believe I
> can match up some
bearings and some of the seals from the tranny if anyone
> has any extra
set of bearings or if you have a bad tranny they would like to
> get
fixed? Please let me know. Last year I got my tranny rebuilt and some of
>
the seals were replaced, also while going through the whole agonizing
>
process I found sources that might benefit us all. If you would like any
>
information or any assistance please let me know.
Certainly more sources
will be a good thing for us. Currently, MD Auto sells a
Timken bearing kit
with 8 bearings for $225, and the 6 OEM seals for tranny &
transfer for
$175. I would think you can buy the seals cheaper directly from
one of the
discount Mitsu dealers though.
> Also, does anyone know
> how
many vendors sell Y-Pipes? Thanks.
Dave Buschur at
http://www.buschurracing.com is one.
--
I'm just driving this way to
piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
---- End Original Message
----
3Si News and Events
http://www.3si.org
___________________________________________________________
Get
your own Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 09:45:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 09:44:11
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
General Atomics - Fusion Group
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To: Kevin
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CC: ricardo cousar
<rcousar@datawest.net>,
sirius 3000gt mail list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny parts
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Sorry that was
left out. This is for the Getrags. There have been
ongoing
threads about the Getrag and suppliers/rebuilders MD Auto (619)
390-0450, Kormex
(800) 429-5464, and mailto:NYMaxxNY@aol.com.
>
> Is this for the VR-4 Getrags or the SL and base model trans?
>
kevin
>
> ---- Begin Original Message ----
>
> From:
Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
> Sent: Fri, 05 Nov 1999
09:04:38 -0800
> To: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@datawest.net>
>
CC: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny parts
>
> Hi Ricardo,
>
>
>
> > I have some good news about bearings and seals for our
trannies. I believe I
> > can match up some bearings and some of the
seals from the tranny if anyone
> > has any extra set of bearings or if
you have a bad tranny they would like to
> > get fixed? Please let me
know. Last year I got my tranny rebuilt and some of
> > the seals were
replaced, also while going through the whole agonizing
> > process I
found sources that might benefit us all. If you would like any
> >
information or any assistance please let me know.
>
> Certainly
more sources will be a good thing for us. Currently, MD Auto sells
a
> Timken bearing kit with 8 bearings for $225, and the 6 OEM seals for
tranny &
> transfer for $175. I would think you can buy the
seals cheaper directly from
> one of the discount Mitsu dealers
though.
>
> > Also, does anyone know
> > how many
vendors sell Y-Pipes? Thanks.
>
> Dave Buschur at
http://www.buschurracing.com is one.
>
> --
> I'm just
driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> ---- End Original Message
----
>
> 3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
>
___________________________________________________________
> Get your own
Web-based E-mail Service at http://www.zzn.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
--
I'm
just driving this way to piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
question on fuel
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 10:51:44 -0600
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Hey all,
I'm just curious if anyone could explain what's
different about racing fuel
vs. pump fuel? Also what are the effects of
using it in our cars (as in say
you want to go to the track for a day, and
want to use racing fuel, will it
destroy our engines)? Are there any
mods you have to have on yer car in
order to use racing fuel? If so
does that mean that you couldn't ever use
pump fuel again?
Sorry for
the barrage of questions on fuel, just trying to figure out what
the
differences are :).
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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To: "Ricardo Cousar"
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"Sirius 3000GT Mail List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny
parts
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:59:48 -0800
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bulk
Ricardo,
For those Y-pipes, try Alamomotorsports, and GT
pro.
I think the Alamo runs between $195 and $250.
Alamo sells one for
his "LARGE" intercooler kit that has 2" inlets if that's
the
route u wanna go later.
Good luck!
Noble
-----Original
Message-----
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@datawest.net>
To: Sirius
3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday,
November 05, 1999 7:06 AM
Subject: Team3S: Tranny parts
>I have
some good news about bearings and seals for our trannies. I
believe
I
>can match up some bearings and some of the seals from the
tranny if anyone
>has any extra set of bearings or if you have a bad
tranny they would like
to
>get fixed? Please let me know. Last year I
got my tranny rebuilt and some
of
>the seals were replaced, also while
going through the whole agonizing
>process I found sources that might
benefit us all. If you would like any
>information or any assistance
please let me know. Also, does anyone know
>how man vendors
sell Y-Pipes? Thanks.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 11:18:23 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch failure?
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regap plugs to
0.034"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 11:29:58 1999
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Message-ID: <0.caab83d2.25548a19@aol.com>
Date:
Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:29:29 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to
'94+)
To: fastmax@home.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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two opposing
pistons apply exactly the same clamping force of a single piston
w/same dia.
sounds odd, but that is the way it is. remember, single piston calipers
float
(slide) and clamp both pads evenly (to a degree)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 12:05:19 1999
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From:
"Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear brake change
('91 to '94+)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 15:05:30 -0500
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Hold on a
second... something does not sound right. You are telling me
that
doubling the pistons does nothing for the force applied to both brake
pads?
You are doubling your surface area so you should double your
force. Basic
physics to me. Maybe you mean that the pressure in
the line does not
change, and I will buy that. But you have more
surface area for the same
pressure to push against so you have more
force.
Take care,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
Free automotive
classifieds and more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com
----------NEW (under
construction)----------
If you love cars you have to visit MOTORHEAD
CAFE
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-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
Muratokcu@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 2:29 PM
To:
fastmax@home.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
brake change ('91 to '94+)
two opposing pistons apply exactly the
same clamping force of a single
piston
w/same dia.
sounds odd, but
that is the way it is. remember, single piston calipers
float
(slide) and
clamp both pads evenly (to a degree)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 5 13:17:18 1999
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From: "Dg B"
<dbretton@hotmail.com>
To: kevin@pacarsearch.com,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to
'94+)
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 16:16:49 EST
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>
>Hold
on a second... something does not sound right. You are telling me
>that
>doubling the pistons does nothing for the force applied to
both brake pads?
>You are doubling your surface area so you should double
your force. Basic
>physics to me. Maybe you mean that the
pressure in the line does not
>change, and I will buy that. But you
have more surface area for the same
>pressure to push against so you have
more force.
>
Nope. You are cutting the force in half, and
applying one half to each
piston.
It's the same amount of force,
however, it is being better utilized. (more
evenly distributed across the
pad).
The amount of force applied on the rear pads is directly related to
the
cylinder pressure, and the ratio of the proportioning valve.
The
proportioning valve has never changed on the 3000GT, to my
knowledge.
Regards,
Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 5 14:16:27 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Kevin
Schappell'"
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to
'94+)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:18:07 -0800
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How about
everybody is half right.
If the surface area of TWO calpers pistons (at
the hydraulic side) equals the
same surface area of a single piston, the
force will not change.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin
Schappell [mailto:kevin@pacarsearch.com]
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999
12:06 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear
brake change ('91 to '94+)
Hold on a second... something does not
sound right. You are telling me that
doubling the pistons does nothing
for the force applied to both brake pads?
You are doubling your surface area
so you should double your force. Basic
physics to me. Maybe you
mean that the pressure in the line does not
change, and I will buy
that. But you have more surface area for the same
pressure to push
against so you have more force.
Take care,
Kevin Schappell
Auto
Answers
Free automotive classifieds and
more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com
----------NEW (under
construction)----------
If you love cars you have to visit MOTORHEAD
CAFE
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
Muratokcu@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 2:29 PM
To:
fastmax@home.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
brake change ('91 to '94+)
two opposing pistons apply exactly the
same clamping force of a single
piston
w/same dia.
sounds odd, but
that is the way it is. remember, single piston calipers
float
(slide) and
clamp both pads evenly (to a degree)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 14:19:41 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "Mohler,
Jeff"
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>,
"'Kevin
Schappell'"
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to
'94+)
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 14:21:05 -0800
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Oops..hit send
too soon.
SO having two pisons does NOT equal twice the force, or the
SAME force. The
hydralic surface area is the qualifier
here.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mohler, Jeff
[mailto:jeff.mohler@netapp.com]
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 2:18
PM
To: 'Kevin Schappell'; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
How about everybody is half
right.
If the surface area of TWO calpers pistons (at the hydraulic side)
equals the
same surface area of a single piston, the force will not
change.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Schappell
[mailto:kevin@pacarsearch.com]
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 12:06
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear brake
change ('91 to '94+)
Hold on a second... something does not sound
right. You are telling me that
doubling the pistons does nothing for
the force applied to both brake pads?
You are doubling your surface area so
you should double your force. Basic
physics to me. Maybe you mean
that the pressure in the line does not
change, and I will buy that. But
you have more surface area for the same
pressure to push against so you have
more force.
Take care,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
Free
automotive classifieds and more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com
----------NEW
(under construction)----------
If you love cars you have to visit MOTORHEAD
CAFE
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
Muratokcu@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 2:29 PM
To:
fastmax@home.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
brake change ('91 to '94+)
two opposing pistons apply exactly the
same clamping force of a single
piston
w/same dia.
sounds odd, but
that is the way it is. remember, single piston calipers
float
(slide) and
clamp both pads evenly (to a degree)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 5 14:57:25 1999
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Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 14:57:57 -0800
To: "Dg B"
<dbretton@hotmail.com>
From: Jim Watkins
<jwatkins@terayon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to
'94+)
Cc: kevin@pacarsearch.com,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Dennis brings up
an important point IMO. Do the first and second gen have
identical
hydraulic pressure feeding the rear calipers? The overall
pressure in
lbs per sq inch is determined by the master cylinder. If first
and
second gen have the same proportion then the portion that arrives at
each
rear slave cylinder in a second gen is half of that of the first gen.
The
ability of the system to transfer that force evenly to a larger surface
area
of brake pad is really the important aspect. More swept area =
greater
stopping power.
regards,
Jim
At 04:16 PM 11/05/1999 EST, Dg B
wrote:
>>
>>Hold on a second... something does not sound
right. You are telling me
>>that
>>doubling the pistons
does nothing for the force applied to both brake pads?
>>You are
doubling your surface area so you should double your force.
Basic
>>physics to me. Maybe you mean that the pressure in the
line does not
>>change, and I will buy that. But you have more
surface area for the same
>>pressure to push against so you have more
force.
>>
>Nope. You are cutting the force in half, and
applying one half to each
>piston.
>
>It's the same amount of
force, however, it is being better utilized. (more
>evenly distributed
across the pad).
>
>The amount of force applied on the rear pads is
directly related to the
>cylinder pressure, and the ratio of the
proportioning valve.
>The proportioning valve has never changed on the
3000GT, to my knowledge.
>
>
>Regards,
>
Dennis
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 16:50:24 1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Venom 400
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 1999 18:52:29 -0600
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Anyone ever heard of or used a piggyback ECU called the Venom
400? It's
from NOPI and claims 25% increase in horsepower (1k-6k rpm)
and significant
increase in torque for our cars. The install sounds
pretty simple (30
minutes with simple hand tools) and for around $300 bucks,
this could be a
good gainer, especially for us NA folks who have rather
limited mod options
compared to the turbos.
I guess it's a fairly new
product -- just wondering if anyone has any input
on the
subject.
Thanks in advance for any
input.
SC92SL
3Si#300
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 5 19:51:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 5 Nov
1999 22:50:41 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
To:
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keep in mind,
the pistons are opposing. Therefore, the clamping force is
equal between one
or two piston calipers even though the piston area is
doubled.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 21:13:44 1999
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From: "Kevin"
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<0.fb41053f.2554ff91@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change
('91 to '94+)
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 00:07:29 -0500
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I am sorry to say, but you are wrong. Double the area, double
the force.
It does not matter if the pistons are opposing or not.
Take
care,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you
love cars, check
out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under
construction---------------
----- Original Message -----
From:
<Muratokcu@aol.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Friday, November 05, 1999 10:50 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change
('91 to '94+)
> keep in mind, the pistons are opposing. Therefore,
the clamping force is
> equal between one or two piston calipers even
though the piston area is
> doubled.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 5 21:25:58 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Upper Midwest Gathering next
year
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 1999 23:25:33 CST
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Hey
everyone,
I thought I already sent out this e-mail, but I never saw it
hit the list.
I apoligize if your getting this message
twice.
I'm starting to organize an Upper Midwest Gathering next May, in
Wisconsin
Dells. The webpage for the event, can be found
at:
http://www.mn3s.org/upper-midwest.html
The sign up for the
event will be done via Onelist.com. Just sign up for
the
"upper-midwest" mailing list, if your interested in attending and
you'll
get all further updates. The direct link to sign up is:
http://www.onelist.com/subscribe/upper-midwest
This event will be
huge!!
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 01:31:38 1999
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From:
"Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
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<013a01bf24c1$6d0cb2a0$0300000a@superservers.net>
<004401bf24d3$94327f60$c490f5ce@kevin>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Changing
plugs
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 03:29:57 -0500
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Thank you everyone for all your help!
I ended up getting it
done (6 hours later) ;-)
I did get the NGK's - .035"
gap
--
One other question that I do have. - I have a greddy profec
A
Before, I had it programmed, and the stock boost was about .5 bar
I
ran approx. .7 bar around town, with a .045 gap.
After changing the plugs
(and a new air-filter - still not a FIPK ;-( --
I left the setting at .7 bar
-- I boosted up to 1.2 bar!!!
Why is this? I can not turn my boost down -
(In other words, the "stock"
boost seems to be 1.2bar) -- I checked
the vac lines, etc.. Everything looks
fine
I can't imagine that a new
gap ( .1" change) would almost _double_ my
boost?)
Thank you _In
advance_ for all your help!
Eddie
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 02:34:27 1999
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Date: Sat,
06 Nov 1999 11:33:37 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Reply-To: robby@swissonline.ch
Organization:
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail
List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Venom
400
References:
<3FED573F5E70D111A11900805F15163F0298815B@mn51mail2.cfsmo.honeywell.com>
<000701bf27f1$3500a6e0$4e51fed1@oemcomputer>
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> Anyone ever
heard of or used a piggyback ECU called the Venom 400? It's
> from
NOPI and claims 25% increase in horsepower (1k-6k rpm) and significant
>
increase in torque for our cars.
One more of this "rip-off"
stuff ! 25% more horsepower ...this is just
bullsh&%t. No, you can't do
this with a piggy-back computer otherwise, this
would mean that the stock ECU
only let the car run on 75%. BTW, it's Venom
performance and NOPI just
(tries) sells it
The people from dynamic racing (I think a guy called
Matt) tried it but it never
worked. Maybe you will see a gain in a car that
already runs on a low advanced
iginition system. But ours is already in the
high figures area so you'll see
nothing, nada, niente, but a hole in your
pocket and a car that runs into
problems.
> The install sounds
pretty simple (30 minutes with simple hand tools) and for
> around $300
bucks, this could be a good gainer, especially for us NA folks
> who have
rather limited mod options compared to the turbos.
It's an old idea and
with the faster computers we have today they can advance
the timing in real
time. But simply said : Forget it !
Don't trust anyone who claims 25%
more hp from a piggy back system as his aim is
to take your money
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 02:46:00 1999
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Date:
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From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Reply-To: robby@swissonline.ch
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To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: question on
fuel
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<002c01bf27ae$0b4187e0$10c9c9c9@benson>
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> I'm just
curious if anyone could explain what's different about racing fuel
> vs.
pump fuel?
There are a lot factors. In short, racing fuel has a much
higher octane rating
and burns slower causing much less detonation even with
high
compression/pressure in the chamber.
> Also what are the
effects of using it in our cars (as in say
> you want to go to the track
for a day, and want to use racing fuel, will it
> destroy our
engines)?
No, it will not. But be carefuly regarding the racing fuel as
some do have lead
in it. If you run without any cats than it is no problem
but the lead will
destory the cats if they are there.
> Are there
any mods you have to have on yer car in
> order to use racing fuel?
If so does that mean that you couldn't ever use
> pump fuel
again?
No, you can go back at any time. For the mods, running leaded race
fuel the cats
must be out. Unleaded race fuel is
ok.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Reply-To:
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From: "Andy
Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo timers
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:36:58 -0500
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I was wonder what models everyone here are using? I am looking
into a
APEXi's newer turbo timer but I also heard that the Greddy one is
good. Any
pros or cons to these?
Thanks,
Andy
93VR4
#134
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 06:40:51 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Eddie'"
<stealth3@superservers.net>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Changing plugs
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 06:39:40 -0800
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Eddie...
Whenever you change anything with your engine, you
should reset the car's
ECU (disconnect the battery for > 30 minutes) and
reset your boost
controller. Both need to relearn changes in
parameters.
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original
Message-----
From: Eddie [mailto:stealth3@superservers.net]
Sent:
Saturday, November 06, 1999 12:30 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Changing
plugs
<snip>
One other question that I do have. - I have a
greddy profec A
Before, I had it programmed, and the stock boost was
about .5 bar
I ran approx. .7 bar around town, with a .045 gap.
After
changing the plugs (and a new air-filter - still not a FIPK ;-( --
I left the
setting at .7 bar -- I boosted up to 1.2 bar!!!
Why is this? I can not
turn my boost down - (In other words, the "stock"
boost seems to be
1.2bar) -- I checked the vac lines, etc.. Everything looks
fine
I
can't imagine that a new gap ( .1" change) would almost _double_
my
boost?)
Thank you _In advance_ for all your
help!
Eddie
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 06:43:43 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Andy
Carberry'" <acarberry@snet.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo timers
Date:
Sat, 6 Nov 1999 06:43:05 -0800
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Andy...
I
have the GReddy, it works just fine. Has a couple programs, so you can
cool
down different times under different conditions. I think the biggest
issue
(with all TTs?) is that you can't use the stock alarm system
without
modifications (i.e., you can't lock the car and alarm it with the
TT
counting down). Soooo, for me the answer is usually to sit there with
the
stereo blasting for one more song before I leave the car.
:-)
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From:
Andy Carberry [mailto:acarberry@snet.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999
5:37 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Turbo
timers
I was wonder what models everyone here are using? I am
looking into a
APEXi's newer turbo timer but I also heard that the Greddy one
is good. Any
pros or cons to these?
Thanks,
Andy
93VR4
#134
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 06:54:47 1999
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo timers
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 08:54:24 -0600
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> I was wonder what models everyone here are using? I am
looking into a
The Blitz Dual Turbo Timer has a built in boost
meter(digital) with a boost
peak memory. This is an inexpensive way to
acuire a peak boost meter.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
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From: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: Andy Carberry
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo timers
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Andy Carberry
wrote:
>
> I was wonder what models everyone here are using?
I am looking into a
> APEXi's newer turbo timer but I also heard that the
Greddy one is good. Any
> pros or cons to these?
I have the
newer model and it works fine, but I would have bought the
Blitz Dual Timer
had it been available at the time. Unlike other
timers, the Blitz
monitors boost and automatically computes the cooldown
duration based on how
hard the car has been driven. It also offers peak
boost hold, a feature
my 1st gen SAVC-R lacks.
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom
braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: Matthews
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To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo
timers
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Chris Winkley
wrote:
>
> Andy...
>
> I have the GReddy, it works
just fine. Has a couple programs, so you can
> cool down different times
under different conditions. I think the biggest
> issue (with all TTs?) is
that you can't use the stock alarm system without
> modifications (i.e.,
you can't lock the car and alarm it with the TT
> counting down). Soooo,
for me the answer is usually to sit there with the
> stereo blasting for
one more song before I leave the car. :-)
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
Note that I do have my A'PEXi timer working with the
stock alarm system
(ie- I can arm the alarm with the engine still running via
the timer as
long as the E-brake is on), but I have no idea how it was
done
(installed by Extreme Motorsports, and it took them two tries!).
I
assume that with the mods already in place, swapping the A'PEXi with
a
Blitz would not be a problem...
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom
braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov
1999 10:56:16 EST
Subject: Fwd: Team3S: question on fuel
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov
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Subject: Re: Team3S: question on fuel
To:
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Hi Roger & everyone,
But won't the Leaded
Race fuel have some kind of negative effect on the O2
sensors? I
always use Unleaded Race fuel at the track but have always been
curious if I
can use the Leaded Race Fuel ( I have all my cats gutted but
thought that
the Leaded Race fuel will damage my O2 sensor/s)?? I have the
1st.
generation VR4; this is my daily driver and I will always go back to
pump
Unleaded Premium gas after the race tracks.....so is it safe for me to
use
LEADED race gas at the track and go back to pump gas for street
use???????
Ahmed "AL-craZy" - '92 VR4
In a message dated
11/6/99 4:46:36 AM Central Standard Time,
robby@swissonline.ch
writes:
<< No, it will not. But be carefuly regarding the racing
fuel as some do have
lead
in it. If you run without any cats than it is
no problem but the lead will
destory the cats if they are there.
>
Are there any mods you have to have on yer car in
> order to use racing
fuel? If so does that mean that you couldn't ever use
> pump fuel
again?
No, you can go back at any time. For the mods, running leaded race
fuel the
cats
must be out. Unleaded race fuel is
ok.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
>>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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From: "Shawn and
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To:
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"Sirius 3000GT Mail List"
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Venom
400
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 10:24:19 -0600
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Thanks for the input. Sometimes you just want something like
that to be
true -- but it's always best to ask the pros in here what they
think.
thanks again,
SC92SL
----- Original Message
-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 4:33
AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Venom 400
> > Anyone ever heard of
or used a piggyback ECU called the Venom 400? It's
> > from NOPI
and claims 25% increase in horsepower (1k-6k rpm) and
significant
>
> increase in torque for our cars.
>
> One more of this
"rip-off" stuff ! 25% more horsepower ...this is just
>
bullsh&%t. No, you can't do this with a piggy-back computer
otherwise,
this
> would mean that the stock ECU only let the car run on
75%. BTW, it's Venom
> performance and NOPI just (tries) sells
it
>
> The people from dynamic racing (I think a guy called Matt)
tried it but it
never
> worked. Maybe you will see a gain in a car that
already runs on a low
advanced
> iginition system. But ours is already
in the high figures area so you'll
see
> nothing, nada, niente, but a
hole in your pocket and a car that runs into
> problems.
>
>
> The install sounds pretty simple (30 minutes with simple hand tools)
and
for
> > around $300 bucks, this could be a good gainer,
especially for us NA
folks
> > who have rather limited mod options
compared to the turbos.
>
> It's an old idea and with the faster
computers we have today they can
advance
> the timing in real time. But
simply said : Forget it !
>
> Don't trust anyone who claims 25% more
hp from a piggy back system as his
aim is
> to take your money
!
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Fwd: Team3S: question on
fuel
Date: Sat, 06 Nov 1999 10:36:00 CST
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You can use
leaded racing fuel at the 1/4 mile track. Just make sure you
dump
unleaded fuel in afterwards. Extended use of leaded racing gas will
crap out your o2 sensors, but 10 times up and down the 1/4 mile track won't
hurt it. Just don't drive 50 miles home on leaded racing
gas.
You still need to make sure you have no cats
also.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Fwd: Team3S: question on
fuel
>Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 10:56:16 EST
>
>
><<
message3.txt
>>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo
timers
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 18:50:40 +0100
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> timers, the Blitz monitors boost and automatically computes the
cooldown
> duration based on how hard the car has been driven. It
also offers peak
> boost hold, a feature my 1st gen SAVC-R lacks.
I
do have the Blitz Dual Timer installed and must say it is a really
great
device. You can switch between manual timing control (10"- 9'50'')
or the
automatic setting Jim already mentioned. Auto is always 10 sec minimum
but
adjusts very quickly up and down regarding the boost level. It is
coupled
with the hand brake switch and the speed sensor (I didn't used it)
and if
you don't like the 10 sec just switch the engine off by tipping onto
the
main button (kinda cool)
Please note there is a Turbo Timer and
Dual Timer and only the second is the
one that has the boost sensor built in.
Price range is between $110 - $120
and about $25 for the harness that makes
installation a breeze.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 11:29:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise
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First of all,
I'd like to say I am new to this list.. If this type of post
is not what you
guys deal with, please accept my appologies, but I did not
get much help in
the stealth@starnet.net list.
Three weeks ago I purchased a 1993 3000GT
VR-4. I knew it had a bad
sycnrho in 3rd gear, so I gota warentee and they
are supposedly putting a
new tranny in next week some time under the GM
warentee. (I HOPE! If they
dont, I have a real problem!) I have a few
questions about the car.. as
well as things i've done to it and will do in
the future.
1) I replaced the spark plugs last week. When I did so, I
didnt put the
upper IC pipe (for the upper turbo) back on , I just let it
hang there
because i am an idiot. After a day, I decided to figure out what
was going
on and realized what happened. I bought the O-ring again because it
had
been schredded ($7 for an o-ring at mitsu! Geeze!) by all of the air
from
the turbo. My question is, since then, the car hasnt felt like it had
as
much kick. Am I imagining things? Is it possible that I made a
leak
somewhere else? (I checked all the hoses and pipes I could find..
Nothing
SEEMS loose.
2) Do our rear wheels turn the SAME or OPPOSITE
direction as the front
wheels? I've heard both.. and at what speed to they
start turning, and how
much?
3) Could I get two used 13g turbos off
an old automatic Eclipse and use
those? would they bolt on? If so, why
wouldnt a 14b bolt on? Are the
Eclipse 13g's different from the upgraded ones
you'd get at Extreme for
instance?
4) I added a Blitz Dual TUrbo
Timer about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
that when I put it in gear and
floor it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR. It
only hits .5-.55 BAR when i
SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems trange..
Could the wastegate be broken or
something? Maybe this has to do with my
1st question.. Maybe I have a loose
hose somewhere.
5) I added a K&N air filter yesterday, and I
definately noticed a
difference in the pickup.. how much HP did this most
likely add? (by the
way, I am on 9b turbos, the US spec.. not euro spec) How
much HP will a
boost controller set at 1.02 bar add? (not to the wheels, just
total.. )
6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the
drivetrain... Is that
accurate? If so, how much does a smaller pulley help?
(yes the list keeps going!)
7) If the Euro spec 3kgt's have 13g
turbos, how much HP are they rated at?
(just out of curiosity) and why dont
US spec 3kgt's/Stealth's have those
same turbos?
8) What QUIET
exhaust would you guys recomend? I'm thinking the HKS dual
tip exhaust. The
borla would be nice, but its SOO LOUD!
9) How much horsepower can stock
9b turbos hold? What would you guys
recomend for a streetable car? 15g's?
THanks, those are all of the questions i've been thinking about
this
morning.. i'm sure I'll have more later :)
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 11:35:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise
<diranged@hearme.com>
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
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Oh yeah! One
more thing...
When I put the K&N in , I removed all 4 of those honeycome
metal things..
THey didnt LOOK like they did anything but smooth the air flow
a bit I
guess. When I did that, the car idled like crap. When I put them back
in,
the car idled great. What are they, why did the car idle like that
w/o
them? Thanks.
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> First of all, I'd
like to say I am new to this list.. If this type of post
> is not what you
guys deal with, please accept my appologies, but I did not
> get much help
in the stealth@starnet.net list.
>
> Three weeks ago I purchased a
1993 3000GT VR-4. I knew it had a bad
> sycnrho in 3rd gear, so I gota
warentee and they are supposedly putting a
> new tranny in next week some
time under the GM warentee. (I HOPE! If they
> dont, I have a real
problem!) I have a few questions about the car.. as
> well as things i've
done to it and will do in the future.
>
> 1) I replaced the spark
plugs last week. When I did so, I didnt put the
> upper IC pipe (for the
upper turbo) back on , I just let it hang there
> because i am an idiot.
After a day, I decided to figure out what was going
> on and realized what
happened. I bought the O-ring again because it had
> been schredded ($7
for an o-ring at mitsu! Geeze!) by all of the air from
> the turbo. My
question is, since then, the car hasnt felt like it had as
> much kick. Am
I imagining things? Is it possible that I made a leak
> somewhere else? (I
checked all the hoses and pipes I could find.. Nothing
> SEEMS loose.
>
> 2) Do our rear wheels turn the SAME or OPPOSITE direction as
the front
> wheels? I've heard both.. and at what speed to they start
turning, and how
> much?
>
> 3) Could I get two used 13g
turbos off an old automatic Eclipse and use
> those? would they bolt on?
If so, why wouldnt a 14b bolt on? Are the
> Eclipse 13g's different from
the upgraded ones you'd get at Extreme for
> instance?
>
>
4) I added a Blitz Dual TUrbo Timer about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
>
that when I put it in gear and floor it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR.
It
> only hits .5-.55 BAR when i SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems
trange..
> Could the wastegate be broken or something? Maybe this has to
do with my
> 1st question.. Maybe I have a loose hose somewhere.
>
> 5) I added a K&N air filter yesterday, and I definately noticed
a
> difference in the pickup.. how much HP did this most likely add? (by
the
> way, I am on 9b turbos, the US spec.. not euro spec) How much HP
will a
> boost controller set at 1.02 bar add? (not to the wheels, just
total.. )
>
> 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the
drivetrain... Is that
> accurate? If so, how much does a smaller pulley
help?
>
> (yes the list keeps going!)
>
> 7) If the
Euro spec 3kgt's have 13g turbos, how much HP are they rated at?
> (just
out of curiosity) and why dont US spec 3kgt's/Stealth's have those
> same
turbos?
>
> 8) What QUIET exhaust would you guys recomend? I'm
thinking the HKS dual
> tip exhaust. The borla would be nice, but its SOO
LOUD!
>
> 9) How much horsepower can stock 9b turbos hold? What
would you guys
> recomend for a streetable car? 15g's?
>
>
THanks, those are all of the questions i've been thinking about this
>
morning.. i'm sure I'll have more later :)
>
> --Matt Wise
>
*NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 12:01:48 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New
To List/Few Questions..
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 13:18:22
-0600
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bulk
That's a good question about the honey-comb things. When I put
on my K&N,
it was hell and high-water to get that damn original air-box
off of the MAS.
I accidentally in the process destroyed the two smaller
honeycomb pieces on
the side (the rounded ones), but managed to salvage the
big one in the
center. So I'm running with just one of those pieces in
due to engineering
stupidity on those damn 4 screws that hold the MAS to the
stock air-box. It
took me 3+ hours and a friends help to get those two
things separated, and I
had to totally shred the bottom portion of the stock
air-box. It's an
amusing story to say the least :).
Latuh
fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 12:11:36 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 13:12:46 -0700
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The honeycombs
are there to smooth the airflow. This is critical for the
type of
airflow sensing technology used by the factory MAS. Removing them
will
definitely yield inaccurate results being sent to the ECU. Whether
the
car runs properly or not after they are removed or modified is a crap
shoot
on the 3000.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> Oh yeah! One more thing...
> When I put the K&N
in , I removed all 4 of those honeycome metal things..
> THey didnt LOOK
like they did anything but smooth the air flow a bit I
> guess. When I did
that, the car idled like crap. When I put them back in,
> the car idled
great. What are they, why did the car idle like that w/o
> them?
Thanks.
>
> --Matt Wise
> *NOC Admin*
> (650) 429
3751
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 12:51:24 1999
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From: "Michael
McWilliams" <CelMike@email.msn.com>
To: "stealth-3000"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear
turbo
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 15:40:54 -0500
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My car has been
blowing large amounts of blue smoke. I did a compression
check and got
good numbers. I also replaced the PCV valve. I found oil in
the
rear intercooler pipe and concluded that the bearings and/or seals were
bad
causing an oil leak which resulted in the smoke.
I was starting to remove
the rear turbo to have it sent out for rebuild when
I noticed a lot of oil in
the intake hose BEFORE the rear turbo. The only
place it could be
coming from is a hose identified only as a "vent hose" in
the
manual. This hose originates on the passenger side of the engine
near
the top center just below the intake plenum. It leads to the
"T" hose which
connects the mass air meter to the hoses leading to
the turbo intakes
(closer to the rear turbo).
Oil is traveling through
this hose, into the rear turbo intake where it
eventually goes through the
intercooler and ultimately into the Y-pipe and
intake. What
gives? I know Roger had a similar problem which he described
as 'PCV
oiling' when his engine needed to be rebuilt, but I have good
compression
numbers on all six cylinders. Could there just be sludge built
up in an
oil drain hole which is preventing it from draining back into the
pan in that
particular passage?
Please help ASAP. My car is half apart and I
need to know what to do. Any
ideas
appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Kevin"
<Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Went drag racing
today, need some opinions !
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 16:10:34
-0500
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bulk
First the car.
91 Stealth TT
Gutted cat/precats
New NGK
plugs gapped to .034"
New Accell plug wires
60k service just
done
Blitz SSBC set to 1.05 bar
Now my best time
Temp:
64
Relative humidity:
54
60'
-
2.105
330'
- 6.007
1/8 mile
- 9.357
1/8 mile MPH -
73.98
1000'
- 12.185
1/4 mile
- 14.521
1/4 mile mph - 97.05
>From everything I have
seen online this is way too slow for my car. I know
the 60' times were
a little slow as I was having trouble launching. I tried
launching at
5000 - 5500 RPM and dumping the clutch, which was ok but not
neck
snapping. I did launch once trying to slip the clutch but ended
up
toasting the clutch. I was hoping for low 13 second times, and I
have seen
similar cars going 13.2 with 60' times close to mine. What
should I look at
first? The car is running fine, no odd noises,
sputtering or any other
signs. I have noticed the oil cap is leaking
after I finished the 60k mile
service. (including new PCV valve) Could
this be related? Any 1/4 mile
guys out there that can make sense of my
times, please speak up.
Thank you,
Kevin Schappell
Auto
Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check
out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under
construction---------------
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From owner-stealth-3000gt
Sat Nov 6 13:36:20 1999
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From: "Michael
McWilliams" <CelMike@email.msn.com>
To: "stealth-3000"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear
turbo
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 16:26:24 -0500
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One more
thing...
To test my "clogged oil drain passage" theory, I used
a funnel to pour oil
into the hose which is the source of the oil. The
oil WAS making its way to
the pan (as evidenced by the higher oil level on
the dipstick), but it was
draining VERY slowly. It took me 3-4 minutes
to pour less than half a quart
down the hose it drained so
slow.
Anyone out there think that using a 'de-sludge' product from Pep
Boys might
help my problem?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 14:29:47 1999
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To:
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Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Sat, 6 Nov
1999 17:23:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Went drag racing today, need some
opinions !
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Well the most
important thing that you can do is just to practice on
driving the car.
It'll make all the difference in the world! You really
need to get
those 60ft. times down into the 1.7's to 1.9's. Trust me
I've seen my
friend, a not so great driver run his VR4 to low 13 second
times, a different
driver hopped in and in his first attempt went 11.9.
Honestly with the mods
you have you could probably go 12.8 to 13.1 every
time down the track just
like I did when I had the same level of
mods.
Del
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From
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Matt Wise"
<diranged@hearme.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New2List/Few Q's-- partial reply...
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999
14:53:01 -0800
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A few quick
answers, to a few of your questions... BTW, much of
this stuff has been
discussed at length before, and can be found in
our Team3S archives;
access them from our webpage. They are zip
files, and can be searched
by keyword to find the posts you want.
-----Original Message-----From:
Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
------snip-----
>5) I added a
K&N air filter yesterday, and I definitely noticed a
>difference in
the pickup.. how much HP did this most likely add?
(by
the
-------snip--------
They claim up to 10 to 15 HP increase for the
turbos. Since
replacing the stock airbox with a K&N FIPK, I dynoed
6 HP increase
on my base Stealth; since the turbo S/3k's are roughly twice
the HP,
it's reasonable to expect a 12 HP (or better) gain. The
K&N
replacement filter that fits IN our stock airbox only gives a
couple
of HP, though...
>6) I've heard that our cars lose %33
through the drivetrain... Is
that
>accurate? If so, how much does a
smaller pulley help?
Rated HP results in 15% - 20% less at the
wheels.
>3) Could I get two used 13g turbos off an old automatic
Eclipse and
use
>those? would they bolt on? If so, why wouldnt a 14b
bolt on? Are
the
>Eclipse 13g's different from the upgraded ones you'd
get at Extreme
for
>instance?
>5) I added a K&N air filter
yesterday, and I definately noticed a
>difference in the pickup.. how much
HP did this most likely add?
(by the
>way, I am on 9b turbos, the US
spec.. not euro spec) How much HP
will a
>boost controller set at 1.02
bar add? (not to the wheels, just
total.. )
>7) If the Euro spec 3kgt's
have 13g turbos, how much HP are they
rated at?
>(just out of
curiosity) and why dont US spec 3kgt's/Stealth's have
those
>same
turbos?
>9) How much horsepower can stock 9b turbos hold? What would
you
guys
>recomend for a streetable car? 15g's?
In answer to
some of these #3, #5, #7, #9 Q's-- I know little about
turbos, (and
you'll get lots of info from the archives and some more
replies still to
come), but here's a whole education from a recent
post by JackT on
10/25:
"...13G make at least 50+ hp more than the 9B. I did no
other
changes on my '93 and went from 12.727 @ 107.562 mph to 12.172
@
112.890 mph quartermile on 8/31/94 going from 9B to 13G. This
is
somewhat over 50hp, and I did not have the VPC/550 injectors yet,
so
had to limit boost to ~16-17psi or fuelcut came in. In
this
configuration, went best of 114.350 mph on 9/27/94, ~65hp more
(all
stats are NO nitrous in this letter, except as noted). --I
think
9B's can be good for about 410hp at wheels maxxed out with
standard
stuff...
...Once VPC/550 injectors in, 13G's went 12.000 and
119.381 best
mph, on 4/8/95; about 500 hp at the wheels; overall, gained
about
110 hp with 13G over 9B, but given other changes 13G likely ~100
hp
better than 9B. 13G best ET was 11.702 @ 118.061 on 6/6/96;
this
was through traps in 3rd gear, on the rev limiter. I was the
first
3000GT in the 11's 5/17/95 with an 11.937 @ 118.338. --I think
13G
can be good for about 510hp at wheels maxxed out with
standard
stuff....
...15G best MPH was 11.387 @ 125.76 11/28/96 at the 1st
Annual
3000GT/Stealth vs. Diamond Star Shootout in Temple, TX with the
550
injectors; about 575 hp at the wheels, so 15G make about 75 hp
more
than 13 G, but note I made some other changes so 15G likely
~40-50hp
better than 13G. After that, 720cc injectors did not add any
mph to
trapspeed, indeed seemed to LOWER speed likely due to
over-rich
condition-- but lowered EGT a tad (max 1850 F at Temple) which
may
or may not have been good because knock could at random times mean
EGT
high due to retard, or due to a true lean mix. Best ET for me
with 15G
was 11.303 @ 122.54 at DSM Shootout 5/16/97, which I won
class in :) full
interior, as required by Dave Buschur...Adam Weltz
went ~11.25 "no
NOS". --I think 15G can be good for about 580hp at
wheels maxxed
out with standard stuff...
...My car made best 575 or so at wheels no NOS,
but that is not
"maxxed" because I always had stock intercoolers,
no headers, no
head/intake/throttlebodyporting/ignition/standalone
computer--with
THOSE parts, my "maxxed out" figures could be
somewhat higher...
...Best 3000GT/Stealth ET/MPH overall is still my 10.810 @
128.44
with 15G's, 50hp NOS
on 6/3/97..."
--JackT
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 18:05:05 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 18:03:11 -0800
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The honeycombs were put in there by Mitsu engineers to serve as
an
educational toy to bewilder the minds of those who think they mean
nothing
and consequently tear them out. They are something like the Great
Pyramid is
on a global basis: an educational toy to set bewilder the mind of
manchild.
;-)
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From:
Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999
11:54 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
>Oh
yeah! One more thing...
>When I put the K&N in , I removed all 4 of
those honeycome metal things..
>THey didnt LOOK like they did anything but
smooth the air flow a bit I
>guess. When I did that, the car idled like
crap. When I put them back in,
>the car idled great. What are they, why
did the car idle like that w/o
>them? Thanks.
>
>--Matt
Wise
>*NOC Admin*
>(650) 429 3751
>
>On Sat, 6 Nov 1999,
Matt Wise wrote:
>
>> First of all, I'd like to say I am new to
this list.. If this type of
post
>> is not what you guys deal with,
please accept my appologies, but I did
not
>> get much help in the
stealth@starnet.net list.
>>
>> Three weeks ago I purchased a
1993 3000GT VR-4. I knew it had a bad
>> sycnrho in 3rd gear, so I gota
warentee and they are supposedly putting a
>> new tranny in next week
some time under the GM warentee. (I HOPE! If they
>> dont, I have a
real problem!) I have a few questions about the car.. as
>> well as
things i've done to it and will do in the future.
>>
>> 1) I
replaced the spark plugs last week. When I did so, I didnt put the
>>
upper IC pipe (for the upper turbo) back on , I just let it hang
there
>> because i am an idiot. After a day, I decided to figure out
what was
going
>> on and realized what happened. I bought the O-ring
again because it had
>> been schredded ($7 for an o-ring at mitsu!
Geeze!) by all of the air from
>> the turbo. My question is, since
then, the car hasnt felt like it had as
>> much kick. Am I imagining
things? Is it possible that I made a leak
>> somewhere else? (I checked
all the hoses and pipes I could find.. Nothing
>> SEEMS
loose.
>>
>> 2) Do our rear wheels turn the SAME or OPPOSITE
direction as the front
>> wheels? I've heard both.. and at what speed
to they start turning, and
how
>> much?
>>
>> 3)
Could I get two used 13g turbos off an old automatic Eclipse and use
>>
those? would they bolt on? If so, why wouldnt a 14b bolt on? Are the
>>
Eclipse 13g's different from the upgraded ones you'd get at Extreme
for
>> instance?
>>
>> 4) I added a Blitz Dual TUrbo
Timer about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
>> that when I put it in gear
and floor it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR.
It
>> only hits .5-.55
BAR when i SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems trange..
>> Could the
wastegate be broken or something? Maybe this has to do with my
>> 1st
question.. Maybe I have a loose hose somewhere.
>>
>> 5) I
added a K&N air filter yesterday, and I definately noticed a
>>
difference in the pickup.. how much HP did this most likely add? (by
the
>> way, I am on 9b turbos, the US spec.. not euro spec) How much HP
will a
>> boost controller set at 1.02 bar add? (not to the wheels,
just total.. )
>>
>> 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33
through the drivetrain... Is that
>> accurate? If so, how much does a
smaller pulley help?
>>
>> (yes the list keeps
going!)
>>
>> 7) If the Euro spec 3kgt's have 13g turbos, how
much HP are they rated
at?
>> (just out of curiosity) and why dont
US spec 3kgt's/Stealth's have those
>> same
turbos?
>>
>> 8) What QUIET exhaust would you guys recomend?
I'm thinking the HKS dual
>> tip exhaust. The borla would be nice, but
its SOO LOUD!
>>
>> 9) How much horsepower can stock 9b turbos
hold? What would you guys
>> recomend for a streetable car?
15g's?
>>
>> THanks, those are all of the questions i've been
thinking about this
>> morning.. i'm sure I'll have more later
:)
>>
>> --Matt Wise
>> *NOC Admin*
>> (650)
429 3751
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 18:43:31 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Michael McWilliams"
<CelMike@email.msn.com>,
"stealth-3000" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear turbo
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 18:41:30
-0800
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Hey Mike;
One thing we have been through a few times on this
list, is that an oil
flush on TT's is a good idea to clean out the ole
system. Follow it up with
use of a synthetic (Mobil 1 is highly regarded) and
change regularly (no
later than every 2,500) Turbos cook the oil and you will
get problems with
fossils and long intervals on your changes...as in sludge
or cooked oil
build up. If you have bought the car used, it is wise to
try and remedy the
possible poor maintenance practice of the previous owner,
who in all
likelihood thought he/she was AJ
Foyt.
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael
McWilliams <CelMike@email.msn.com>
To: stealth-3000
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999 1:41
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear turbo
>One more
thing...
>
>To test my "clogged oil drain passage" theory,
I used a funnel to pour oil
>into the hose which is the source of the
oil. The oil WAS making its way
to
>the pan (as evidenced by the
higher oil level on the dipstick), but it was
>draining VERY slowly.
It took me 3-4 minutes to pour less than half a
quart
>down the hose it
drained so slow.
>
>Anyone out there think that using a 'de-sludge'
product from Pep Boys might
>help my
problem?
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 19:00:50 1999
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From:
Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'Matt Wise'"
<diranged@hearme.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 4WS Direction
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 15:59:50 +1300
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> 2) Do our
rear wheels turn the SAME or OPPOSITE direction
> as the
front wheels? I've heard both.. and at what speed
> to
they start turning, and how much?
This information is from
http://beam.to/GTO_Manual and was
found on page 37B-5 in the Service
Manual.
4-Wheel Steering System
Check
=============================
To check that the 4WS system is
functioning correctly:
1.Raise the vehicle so that all four
wheels may turn
freely.
2.Start the
engine, running the vehicle at an indicated
speed of
about 80km/h (50 mph).
3.Turn the steering wheel all the way to
the left and
right and turn it swiftly, checking to
ensure that the
rear wheels steer to the same
directions as the
front
wheels.
Please note that we are only talking about a
1.5 degree
shift in direction.
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 21:48:31 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 23:48:20 -0600
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>Three weeks
ago I purchased a 1993 3000GT VR-4. I knew it had a bad
>sycnrho in 3rd
gear, so I gota warentee and they are supposedly putting a
>new tranny in
next week some time under the GM warentee. (I HOPE! If they
>dont, I have
a real problem!) I have a few questions about the car.. as
>well as things
i've done to it and will do in the future.
I wouldn't count on them
replacing the tranny for you. Since you just got the warranty, they are
probably going to call it a pre-existing condition -- and be correct. Good
luck.
>3) Could I get two used 13g turbos off an old automatic Eclipse
and use
>those? would they bolt on? If so, why wouldnt a 14b bolt on? Are
the
>Eclipse 13g's different from the upgraded ones you'd get at Extreme
for
>instance?
Nope. Eclipse turbos all have the inlet on
the same side, and aren't
available with the exhaust side reversed (to the
best of my knowlege).
An Eclipse turbo would probably bolt onto the front
side of the motor,
but the back side will be very problematic. I don't
think the auto
Eclipse turbo was a 13G, either. I think it was a 12b or
something
like that.
>4) I added a Blitz Dual TUrbo Timer about 2
weeks ago, and i've noticed
>that when I put it in gear and floor it, max
boost is about .4-.42 BAR. It
>only hits .5-.55 BAR when i SHIFT.. Whats
going on? this seems trange..
>Could the wastegate be broken or something?
Maybe this has to do with my
>1st question.. Maybe I have a loose hose
somewhere.
Did you hook up the vacuum hose to the blowoff valve
properly? If not,
that can be a major source of lost
boost.
>8) What QUIET exhaust would you guys recomend? I'm thinking
the HKS dual
>tip exhaust. The borla would be nice, but its SOO
LOUD!
Stock is the best way to go if you want quiet. All the
aftermarket ones
I've heard have a lot more rumble than the stock does.
I have the Borla,
and it isn't that bad. It is a low rumble though, so
at least it isn't
like those damn "bumblebee" Honda exhausts.
Ugh.
>9) How much horsepower can stock 9b turbos hold? What would you
guys
>recomend for a streetable car? 15g's?
400HP is within reason
on 9b's. Much beyond that is really pushing it
on those little
turbos. I asked the same question a few weeks ago and
the consensus
seemed to be to not waste the money on the 13G's, and
just go straight to the
15G's, which is what I'm doing.
>THanks, those are all of the
questions i've been thinking about this
>morning.. i'm sure I'll have more
later :)
Take a look through the Archives before asking a whole lot
more
questions. You'll likely find answers there to many of
them.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 22:08:58 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Darcy
Gunnlaugson'" <wce@telus.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 22:10:46 -0800
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Precedence: bulk
THe honeycombs
help smooth the airflow for the AFM to properly meter the mass of
air
entering the system.
The AFM reads a particular type of airflow, which
must be linear (to a point)
-----Original Message-----
From: Darcy
Gunnlaugson [mailto:wce@telus.net]
Sent: Saturday, November 06, 1999 6:03
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
The honeycombs were put in there by Mitsu engineers to
serve as an
educational toy to bewilder the minds of those who think they
mean nothing
and consequently tear them out. They are something like the
Great Pyramid is
on a global basis: an educational toy to set bewilder the
mind of manchild.
;-)
Best
Darc
-----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Saturday, November 06, 1999 11:54 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
>Oh yeah! One more thing...
>When I put the
K&N in , I removed all 4 of those honeycome metal things..
>THey didnt
LOOK like they did anything but smooth the air flow a bit I
>guess. When I
did that, the car idled like crap. When I put them back in,
>the car idled
great. What are they, why did the car idle like that w/o
>them?
Thanks.
>
>--Matt Wise
>*NOC Admin*
>(650) 429
3751
>
>On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
>>
First of all, I'd like to say I am new to this list.. If this type
of
post
>> is not what you guys deal with, please accept my
appologies, but I did
not
>> get much help in the
stealth@starnet.net list.
>>
>> Three weeks ago I purchased a
1993 3000GT VR-4. I knew it had a bad
>> sycnrho in 3rd gear, so I gota
warentee and they are supposedly putting a
>> new tranny in next week
some time under the GM warentee. (I HOPE! If they
>> dont, I have a
real problem!) I have a few questions about the car.. as
>> well as
things i've done to it and will do in the future.
>>
>> 1) I
replaced the spark plugs last week. When I did so, I didnt put the
>>
upper IC pipe (for the upper turbo) back on , I just let it hang
there
>> because i am an idiot. After a day, I decided to figure out
what was
going
>> on and realized what happened. I bought the O-ring
again because it had
>> been schredded ($7 for an o-ring at mitsu!
Geeze!) by all of the air from
>> the turbo. My question is, since
then, the car hasnt felt like it had as
>> much kick. Am I imagining
things? Is it possible that I made a leak
>> somewhere else? (I checked
all the hoses and pipes I could find.. Nothing
>> SEEMS
loose.
>>
>> 2) Do our rear wheels turn the SAME or OPPOSITE
direction as the front
>> wheels? I've heard both.. and at what speed
to they start turning, and
how
>> much?
>>
>> 3)
Could I get two used 13g turbos off an old automatic Eclipse and use
>>
those? would they bolt on? If so, why wouldnt a 14b bolt on? Are the
>>
Eclipse 13g's different from the upgraded ones you'd get at Extreme
for
>> instance?
>>
>> 4) I added a Blitz Dual TUrbo
Timer about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
>> that when I put it in gear
and floor it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR.
It
>> only hits .5-.55
BAR when i SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems trange..
>> Could the
wastegate be broken or something? Maybe this has to do with my
>> 1st
question.. Maybe I have a loose hose somewhere.
>>
>> 5) I
added a K&N air filter yesterday, and I definately noticed a
>>
difference in the pickup.. how much HP did this most likely add? (by
the
>> way, I am on 9b turbos, the US spec.. not euro spec) How much HP
will a
>> boost controller set at 1.02 bar add? (not to the wheels,
just total.. )
>>
>> 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33
through the drivetrain... Is that
>> accurate? If so, how much does a
smaller pulley help?
>>
>> (yes the list keeps
going!)
>>
>> 7) If the Euro spec 3kgt's have 13g turbos, how
much HP are they rated
at?
>> (just out of curiosity) and why dont
US spec 3kgt's/Stealth's have those
>> same
turbos?
>>
>> 8) What QUIET exhaust would you guys recomend?
I'm thinking the HKS dual
>> tip exhaust. The borla would be nice, but
its SOO LOUD!
>>
>> 9) How much horsepower can stock 9b turbos
hold? What would you guys
>> recomend for a streetable car?
15g's?
>>
>> THanks, those are all of the questions i've been
thinking about this
>> morning.. i'm sure I'll have more later
:)
>>
>> --Matt Wise
>> *NOC Admin*
>> (650)
429 3751
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 22:11:23 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: SF Region AutoX
Date: Sat,
6 Nov 1999 22:13:11 -0800
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I plan on
attending tomorrow AMs autox in Oakland.
Decided to fix the flat on the
trailer, and find four "good" racing tires from
the pile out
back.
Who knows..maybe someone from the list will be there.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 22:28:44 1999
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From: "Vineet Singh"
<billi_gates@hotmail.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: DSM turbo's on 3/S
cars.
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 00:31:22 -0600
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1g A/T DSM's came with 13g turbo's stock (they had the
"staggered fin"
design that the 16g's have, and it's actually
called the "G trim"). however,
they will NOT bolt up. The front one
MIGHT be made to work with a different
exhaust housing (3/S cars have only 3
bolts, dsm's have 4, and of course the
down pipe outlet is different). The
rear one is a different monster all
together. It's reveresed, and also a bit
longer than the front one. (14b's
will not work for the same reasons, and
then the oil/water lines would be
different for sure as well!)
Vineet
Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 22:49:12 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999
22:48:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell"
<benson@2015.com>
cc: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
In-Reply-To:
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Bah, I didnt
spend 3 hours on it. :) I pulled out my drill and drilled the
original air
box OFF of the MAS, then used vice grips :) Anyone want my
air box? :)
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999,
Benson "elmagoo" Russell wrote:
> That's a good question
about the honey-comb things. When I put on my K&N,
> it was hell
and high-water to get that damn original air-box off of the MAS.
> I
accidentally in the process destroyed the two smaller honeycomb pieces
on
> the side (the rounded ones), but managed to salvage the big one in
the
> center. So I'm running with just one of those pieces in due to
engineering
> stupidity on those damn 4 screws that hold the MAS to the
stock air-box. It
> took me 3+ hours and a friends help to get those
two things separated, and I
> had to totally shred the bottom portion of
the stock air-box. It's an
> amusing story to say the least
:).
>
>
> Latuh fuh U,
> Benson
>
benson@2015.com
>
> "-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
> -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 22:56:10 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Michael McWilliams <CelMike@email.msn.com>
cc:
stealth-3000 <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
BEFORE rear turbo
In-Reply-To:
<00b801bf2897$4e80cd60$bd9d193f@nutrend>
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I know on
eclipses they have an oil line from the head that goes into the
intercooler
line. Why? EPA... So the oil doesnt splatter on the ground or
in the engine.
Why did they put the hole? I dont know.. It could be
somethign similar. I bet
you can get a K&N air filter for it..
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Michael McWilliams
wrote:
> My car has been blowing large amounts of blue smoke. I
did a compression
> check and got good numbers. I also replaced the
PCV valve. I found oil in
> the rear intercooler pipe and concluded
that the bearings and/or seals were
> bad causing an oil leak which
resulted in the smoke.
>
> I was starting to remove the rear turbo
to have it sent out for rebuild when
> I noticed a lot of oil in the
intake hose BEFORE the rear turbo. The only
> place it could be
coming from is a hose identified only as a "vent hose" in
> the
manual. This hose originates on the passenger side of the engine
near
> the top center just below the intake plenum. It leads to the
"T" hose which
> connects the mass air meter to the hoses
leading to the turbo intakes
> (closer to the rear turbo).
>
> Oil is traveling through this hose, into the rear turbo intake where
it
> eventually goes through the intercooler and ultimately into the
Y-pipe and
> intake. What gives? I know Roger had a similar
problem which he described
> as 'PCV oiling' when his engine needed to be
rebuilt, but I have good
> compression numbers on all six cylinders.
Could there just be sludge built
> up in an oil drain hole which is
preventing it from draining back into the
> pan in that particular
passage?
>
> Please help ASAP. My car is half apart and I
need to know what to do. Any
> ideas appreciated.
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 23:00:19 1999
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Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Kevin <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Went drag racing today,
need some opinions !
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<008e01bf289b$5e4cda00$37f993cd@kevin>
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That is VERY
strange... Even though your ET is 14.5, thats more related to
how good a
driver you are... your total trap speed should EASILY be above
100 from what
i've read online. Isnt stock trap speed 101 mph?
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Kevin wrote:
>
First the car.
> 91 Stealth TT
> Gutted cat/precats
> New NGK
plugs gapped to .034"
> New Accell plug wires
> 60k service
just done
> Blitz SSBC set to 1.05 bar
>
> Now my best
time
> Temp: 64
> Relative humidity: 54
>
60'
- 2.105
>
330'
- 6.007
> 1/8
mile - 9.357
>
1/8 mile MPH - 73.98
>
1000'
- 12.185
> 1/4
mile -
14.521
> 1/4 mile mph - 97.05
>
> >From
everything I have seen online this is way too slow for my car. I
know
> the 60' times were a little slow as I was having trouble
launching. I tried
> launching at 5000 - 5500 RPM and dumping the
clutch, which was ok but not
> neck snapping. I did launch once
trying to slip the clutch but ended up
> toasting the clutch. I was
hoping for low 13 second times, and I have seen
> similar cars going 13.2
with 60' times close to mine. What should I look at
> first?
The car is running fine, no odd noises, sputtering or any other
>
signs. I have noticed the oil cap is leaking after I finished the 60k
mile
> service. (including new PCV valve) Could this be
related? Any 1/4 mile
> guys out there that can make sense of my
times, please speak up.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Kevin
Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.PACarSearch.com
> If you
love cars, check out
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
>
------------Still under construction---------------
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 6 23:04:09 1999
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From: "Vineet Singh"
<billi_gates@hotmail.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Steering wheel
play/Brakes
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 01:06:52 -0600
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These manuals are a crock of $h|+... They assured me that any
steering play
up to 1.2" is NORMAL for our cars. Well my car had about
1" of free play
before the wheels did anything. I thought I was ok, and
worried about the
other semi-major problems with the car. I am attacking them
one at a time.
I just did the front brakes, and to my astonishment, there
was MAYBE .5mm of
pad material left on the drivers side, and 2mm left on the
passenger side.
There was no squealing, or any other noises to indicate this
dangerous
condition. I knew I had to change them because the brakes would
"grind" a
bit if stopping moderately fast.
*Rotor removal trick below*
The rotors were a pain in the ass to take
off, and upon screwing the
"removal bolts" into the old rotors,
they promptly cracked/stripped. I found
a trick though! I removed the caliper
(you have to anyway), and put the big
17mm caliper mounting bolts back in. I
stuck 2 QUARTERS between the end of
the bolt and the rotor. Then just screwed
the bolt in a little, then the
lower one the same way. It pushed the seized
rotor off like a charm, and
don't worry, those bolts are like grade 100 or
something because they bent
the quarters, but didn't even look
abused!
I painted the calipers yellow after a good dousing of brake parts
cleaner
and a bit of fine grit sandpaper. They look really nice now! I am
amazed at
how light they are! I think the 3000gt SL brakes that are on my
Talon are 2x
as heavy! Don't worry though, the 3000gt Vr4 front rotor makes
up for the
weight difference, that thing is bigger than what I used to have
on my
ranger! (truck).
Oh yea, back to the steering wheel play...
guess what, my outer tie rod ends
have like 1-2mm of play in them. The bottom
part (spindle) can move w/o
moving the top (nut) part/steering rack. This is
the same if not worse on
the passenger side! Don't tell me THAT is normal! I
went to POOP BOY's, and
they assured me that the ones they listed under
"2 Wheel Steering, outer"
ones were correct. They don't LOOK
correct, kinda wimpy actually (in fact
they look more like my talon ones than
the stealth's!).
I will be ordering the REAL ones from 1888tallmits this
Monday, but how do I
get them off? do I need that "pitch fork"
looking tool (ball joint
separation). I bought one in case. Can I just hammer
it from the top after
removing the nut? Will I need an alignment after
this?
My "loose" steering also caused the car to wander a bit
on the road... I had
just tricked myself into thinking maybe the AWS makes it
feel like that.
Don't believe everything in the manuals! In the brakes
section, they really
seem to think that JUST changing pads is all that is
needed when doing the
brakes. I think this because they don't mention
removing the caliper, so I
assume they don't turn/replace the rotors
(according to their directions).
Always do this!
Also, one more thing.
I got the car with BBS RSII rims on it. They are a 3
piece rim, mesh/spoke
pattern, similar to some BMW OEM rims. I have 3000gt
SL wheels on my Talon
(yea, the talon is more a 3/S car than anything now
:), and with
225/50/16" tires on them, they weigh nearly *50lbs*!!! These
BBS wheels
are the lightest rims I have ever picked up, just for fun, I
weighed them,
and with the 235/45/17's they weigh ONLY 37lbs!. Stock talon
wheels weigh 41!
That is totally amazing (though I think the BBS's look
kinda ugly). In
fact, they are even lighter than my friends Antera 3 spoke
(UGLY, but VERY
light) rims, by 1 lb. And these are 17"s!
A pic of my car is here,
along with the veilside bodied GTO. I like my
stealth's GFX, not TOO
different IMO. (not worth the money/effort to change
something that is nearly
perfect already, maybe if I had a small accident in
front or back I would
change my mind
:)
http://manualcd.dsm.org/rich/veil_mycar.jpg
Enough babbling for
now, stay tuned for more! Next project? Rear leaky
turbo!
Vineet
Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T -
http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To Shift!"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 6 23:15:20 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Matt
Wise'"
<diranged@hearme.com>,
Michael McWilliams
<CelMike@email.msn.com>
Cc: stealth-3000
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear
turbo
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 1999 23:16:23 -0800
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You mean..a vent
from the head to the intake
plumbing.
Easy.
Emissions.
-----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Wise [mailto:diranged@hearme.com]
Sent: Saturday,
November 06, 1999 10:56 PM
To: Michael McWilliams
Cc:
stealth-3000
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear turbo
I know on
eclipses they have an oil line from the head that goes into the
intercooler
line. Why? EPA... So the oil doesnt splatter on the ground or
in the engine.
Why did they put the hole? I dont know.. It could be
somethign similar. I bet
you can get a K&N air filter for it..
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Sat, 6 Nov 1999, Michael McWilliams
wrote:
> My car has been blowing large amounts of blue smoke. I
did a compression
> check and got good numbers. I also replaced the
PCV valve. I found oil in
> the rear intercooler pipe and concluded
that the bearings and/or seals were
> bad causing an oil leak which
resulted in the smoke.
>
> I was starting to remove the rear turbo
to have it sent out for rebuild when
> I noticed a lot of oil in the
intake hose BEFORE the rear turbo. The only
> place it could be
coming from is a hose identified only as a "vent hose" in
> the
manual. This hose originates on the passenger side of the engine
near
> the top center just below the intake plenum. It leads to the
"T" hose which
> connects the mass air meter to the hoses
leading to the turbo intakes
> (closer to the rear turbo).
>
> Oil is traveling through this hose, into the rear turbo intake where
it
> eventually goes through the intercooler and ultimately into the
Y-pipe and
> intake. What gives? I know Roger had a similar
problem which he described
> as 'PCV oiling' when his engine needed to be
rebuilt, but I have good
> compression numbers on all six cylinders.
Could there just be sludge built
> up in an oil drain hole which is
preventing it from draining back into the
> pan in that particular
passage?
>
> Please help ASAP. My car is half apart and I
need to know what to do. Any
> ideas appreciated.
>
>
Thanks,
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
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> >4) I
added a Blitz Dual TUrbo Timer about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
>
>that when I put it in gear and floor it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR.
It
> >only hits .5-.55 BAR when i SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems
trange..
> >Could the wastegate be broken or something? Maybe this has
to do with my
> >1st question.. Maybe I have a loose hose somewhere.
>
> Did you hook up the vacuum hose to the blowoff valve
properly? If not,
> that can be a major source of lost
boost.
Umm, For the boost guage portion of my turbo timer, doesnt it
connect to
the top vacume hose coming off of the throttle body?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Date:
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From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Reply-To: robby@swissonline.ch
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To: stealth-3000
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil BEFORE rear
turbo
References:
<00b801bf2897$4e80cd60$bd9d193f@nutrend>
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> The only
place it could be coming from is a hose identified only as a "vent
>
hose" in the manual.
What about the BPV valve ? If you have oil in
the y-pipe it will be blown back
into the intake before the turbos. This was
not the case in my problem as I had
the HKS BOV installed and therefore the
oil definitely was comming from the
crankcase ventilation system.
>
Oil is traveling through this hose, into the rear turbo intake where it
>
eventually goes through the intercooler and ultimately into the Y-pipe
and
> intake.
Yes, this is possible and the vacuum before the turbo
even more "sucks" the oil
into the intake.
> What
gives? I know Roger had a similar problem which he described
> as
'PCV oiling' when his engine needed to be rebuilt, but I have good
>
compression numbers on all six cylinders. Could there just be sludge
built
> up in an oil drain hole which is preventing it from draining back
into the
> pan in that particular passage?
I's also suggest the
engine flush with a good oil change as you may have too
much pressure in the
crankcase due to some cooked oil in the passages.
> Please help
ASAP. My car is half apart and I need to know what to do.
Any
> ideas appreciated.
Well, I'd say it was to quick to get the
engine apart as the source of the
problem has not yet been evaluated. It's
not possible to do the flush now but
it's maybe worth to have a turbo shop to
take the turbos apart and to replace
the sealings so you'll be sure that not
the turbos are the problem. Also make
sure that the IC are taken off the car
and be totally cleaned from oil. Damn job
but the only way to assure to get
rid of any oil in the intake path.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From: "R.G."
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To: Team3S List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Went drag racing
today, need some opinions !
References:
<008e01bf289b$5e4cda00$37f993cd@kevin>
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> New Accell
plug wires
I think I Already mentioned the Accell wires are not
recommended on our cars.
> Blitz SSBC set to 1.05 bar
You do
not set the SSBC to a specific boost level but you use paramters to set
it.
They are maybe off as the SSBC are made for smaller cars with single
turbos
(DSM)
> 1/4
mile -
14.521
> 1/4 mile mph - 97.05
With more experience, you
may brake into the 13s... but I doubt low 13s !
> I was hoping for low
13 second times, and I have seen similar cars going
> 13.2 with 60' times
close to mine.
I don't think that they had Accels and a SSBC and you
probably went the too
cheap way with your mods :-/
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 06:31:43 1999
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From: "R.G."
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
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> 1) I
replaced the spark plugs last week. When I did so, I didnt put the
After
you checked everything and you are 120% sure that there is no leak you
may
disconnec the battery for a while to get the car relearn. The leak you
had got
the ECU irritated as the measured air was not the same that went into
the intake
plenum and it adjusted. It may adjust again but it is always
better to force the
learning mode.
> 2) Do our rear wheels turn the
SAME or OPPOSITE direction as the front
As already answered, they turn to
the same direction as the front ones.
> 3) Could I get two used 13g
turbos off an old automatic Eclipse and use
The exhaust manifold do not
line up as well as the intake and outlet of the
turbos.
> 4) I
added a Blitz Dual TUrbo Timer about 2 weeks ago, and i've noticed
> that
when I put it in gear and floor it, max boost is about .4-.42 BAR. It
>
only hits .5-.55 BAR when i SHIFT.. Whats going on? this seems trange..
>
Could the wastegate be broken or something? Maybe this has to do with my
>
1st question.. Maybe I have a loose hose somewhere.
You didn't mentioned
any boost controller and therefore the bosot is absolutely
ok for older
wastegates.
> 5) I added a K&N air filter yesterday, and I
definately noticed a
> difference in the pickup..
The ECU will
relearn after some miles and with a boost controller the MAS will
become the
bigger restriction as the filter. You will not see more than 8hp with
a FIPK
but all the other stuff stock !
> way, I am on 9b turbos, the US
spec.. not euro spec) How much HP will a
> boost controller set at 1.02
bar add? (not to the wheels, just total.. )
About 60hp, depending on the
health of the engine.
> 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through
the drivetrain... Is that
> accurate? If so, how much does a smaller
pulley help?
Pulley doesn't help anything as drivetrain has nothing to do
with the pulley.
Our accessories are very low-power consuming and it's not
worth to change a
pulley for a 3hp gain but a possible danger for damage due
to the loss of a
harmonic balancer.
> 7) If the Euro spec 3kgt's
have 13g turbos, how much HP are they rated at?
> (just out of curiosity)
and why dont US spec 3kgt's/Stealth's have those
> same turbos?
The
difference is that our EU cars are runned on much higher constant speeds.
The
13G discharge temperatures are lower than the 9B (very noticeable
difference
on the dyno) but ours do have a little more lag after
shifting.
> 8) What QUIET exhaust would you guys recomend? I'm
thinking the HKS dual
> tip exhaust. The borla would be nice, but its SOO
LOUD!
Keep the stock one unless you go for larger turbos ! Adding a dp
and gutting the
precats may help in power but the stock exhaust is good for
more than you have
planned.
> 9) How much horsepower can stock 9b
turbos hold? What would you guys
> recomend for a streetable car?
15g's?
Wrong question ! You may ask how much boost can the turbos hold on
what rpm. If
you are aiming for a nice tourque curve the 13g may be a better
solution as the
15g do have more lag. The 15g can hold boost very good up to
the redline whily
the 13g also fall off. There discharge temperature is also
going dramatically up
after 15psi of boost.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 09:12:04 1999
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Message-ID: <0.f86dd7a.25570cce@aol.com>
Date:
Sun, 7 Nov 1999 12:11:42 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Went drag racing today,
need some opinions !
To: Kevin@pacarsearch.com,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hey Kevin,
Considering you're just now getting started with 1/4
mile drag
racing....you're doing okay.
14.5 sec. in the
1/4 mile with a 2.1 sec. 60ft. time is understandable
considering that you
did NOT mention that you had an aftermarket air intake
system (like K&N
fipk) and NO performance exhaust upgrades. Are we to
understand that
correctly? YOu still have factory air intake system and
factory
exhaust?? I know you gutted your pre-cats and main cat; but what
about
the rest of your exhaust? is it stock?
As for your times: if
you ran a 14.5 1/4 mile @ 97.05mph with a 2.105 60ft.
time; then think about
this.....if you improve on your 60ft. times...if you
can get a 1.7 sec.
60ft. time...your 14.5 sec. 1/4 mile time will drop to
about 13.7sec. 1/4
mile time. For every tenth off of your 60ft. time.....you
can take off
two tenths of your final 1/4 mile time...... So with your
current mods on
your car.....if you bring your 60ft. time down to 1.7 sec.
60ft. times...you
will be running 13.7's in the 1/4!!!!!!! I hope that
makes sense
to you!
When it comes to drag racing at the 1/4 mile track,
it's all about driving
skills, weight distribution, octane gas, launching
skills, etc.
As for your oil cap leaking.....just get a new
factory/stock oil cap (cost is
like $5-$7) as soon as possible......most oil
caps begin to leak after years
and lots of miles.
Do not get
disappointed with your times.....in my opinion you're doing
okay....just
takes practice.....practice.....PRACTICE!!!!!
good luck!!!
Ahmed
"Al-Crazy" - '92 VR4
In a message dated 11/6/99 3:26:11 PM
Central Standard Time,
Kevin@pacarsearch.com writes:
<< First
the car.
91 Stealth TT
Gutted cat/precats
New NGK plugs gapped to
.034"
New Accell plug wires
60k service just done
Blitz SSBC set
to 1.05 bar
Now my best time
Temp: 64
Relative humidity:
54
60'
-
2.105
330'
- 6.007
1/8 mile
- 9.357
1/8 mile MPH -
73.98
1000'
- 12.185
1/4 mile
- 14.521
1/4 mile mph - 97.05
>From everything I have
seen online this is way too slow for my car. I know
the 60' times were
a little slow as I was having trouble launching. I tried
launching at
5000 - 5500 RPM and dumping the clutch, which was ok but not
neck
snapping. I did launch once trying to slip the clutch but ended
up
toasting the clutch. I was hoping for low 13 second times, and I
have seen
similar cars going 13.2 with 60' times close to mine. What
should I look at
first? The car is running fine, no odd noises,
sputtering or any other
signs. I have noticed the oil cap is leaking
after I finished the 60k mile
service. (including new PCV valve) Could
this be related? Any 1/4 mile
guys out there that can make sense of my
times, please speak up.
Thank you,
Kevin Schappell >>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 09:27:27 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To:
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to '94+)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 12:14:36
-0800
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bulk
If you set this up like a statics problem, if there is one force
applied at
one side, the amount of breaking force = the force applied x the
coefficient
of friction of the pads/rotor surface. If only one force=F
is applied to
one side, the non-moving side has an equal but opposite force X
its pad/
rotor coefficient. If there are two forces, the same dynamics
apply.
Although the two forces as vectors cancel each other out, there are
internal
compressive forces equal to 2 x F. This means the equal and
opposite force
= double the original. Hence the two piston is double
the clamping force of
a single piston. The areas of frictional contact
(pads) stay the same, but
the force is doubled, assuming the same pad area
and coefficients.
I have not thought about this in about 6 years during
my Engineering
schooling, so some of my ideas
may be in error.
However, this is a relatively simple example and the basic
theory should be
correct.
Sam 95 VR4
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin
<Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: Muratokcu@aol.com
<Muratokcu@aol.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, November 05, 1999 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91
to '94+)
>I am sorry to say, but you are wrong. Double the
area, double the force.
>It does not matter if the pistons are opposing or
not.
>
>Take care,
>Kevin Schappell
>Auto
Answers
>http://www.PACarSearch.com
>If you love cars, check
out
>http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
>------------Still under
construction---------------
>----- Original Message -----
>From:
<Muratokcu@aol.com>
>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999
10:50 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear brake change ('91 to
'94+)
>
>
>> keep in mind, the pistons are opposing.
Therefore, the clamping force is
>> equal between one or two piston
calipers even though the piston area is
>> doubled.
>> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To:
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: wheels
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 13:00:43 -0800
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They do not have a web address. Their phone number is
1800-884-4349. Look
in the classified section of www.3si.org for
details and classified listing.
Sam
-----Original
Message-----
From: Perry Glover <pglover@bznet.com>
To: Sam Shelat
<sshelat@erols.com>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 9:07 AM
Subject:
Re: wheels
>What is the web address of the site
?????
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Sam
Shelat <sshelat@erols.com>
>To:
<pglover@bznet.com>
>Sent: Friday, November 05, 1999 9:23
PM
>Subject: wheels
>
>
>> Check arrowtire.
They list the wheels in the classified part of
3si
site.
>>
>>
Sam
>>
>>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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1999 15:40:02 -0600
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Rear brake
change, piston theory
References:
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Sam
Shelat wrote:
> If you set this up like a statics problem, if there is
one force applied at
> one side, the amount of breaking force = the force
applied x the coefficient
> of friction of the pads/rotor surface.
If only one force=F is applied to
> one side, the non-moving side has an
equal but opposite force X its pad/
> rotor coefficient. If there
are two forces, the same dynamics apply.
----You are right about all of
that.
> Although the two forces as vectors cancel each other out,
there are internal
> compressive forces equal to 2 x F. This means
the equal and opposite force
> = double the original. Hence the two
piston is double the clamping force of
> a single piston. The areas
of frictional contact (pads) stay the same, but
> the force is doubled,
assuming the same pad area and coefficients.
----But you went wrong
here. Re-read the first paragraph. There are no
mysterious
INTERNAL forces or monkey-motion. If you press on
one side, there is an
equal and opposite force on the OTHER side,
UNLESS the other side's force is
LESSER in which case the other side is
being pushed (accelerated by force
difference) AWAY. It is not forced away;
the brake disc is kept
centered because the forces are equal and opposite.
The OTHER side
consists of either an immovable wall,
or a movable piston. The force
applied is in either case
exactly the SAME, and must equal the force applied
by the FIRST piston.
Multiple pistons allow the opposite "wall"
to float outward, so as the pads
wear the brake DISC stays centered rather
than being forced toward the
immovable side as the immovable side's pad wears
down...note how Mitsu
single piston rear, the whole CALIPER floats to avoid
this problem; while the
FRONT calipers are solid-mounted -- the opposing
pistons float on the immovable
(centered) rotor.
Jack
Tertadian
> I have not thought about this in about 6 years during my
Engineering schooling
> Sam 95 VR4
>
> From: Kevin
<Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
> >I am sorry to say, but you are
wrong. Double the area, double the force.
> >It does not matter
if the pistons are opposing or not.
>
>
> >From:
<Muratokcu@aol.com>
> >> keep in mind, the pistons are
opposing. Therefore, the clamping force is
> >> equal between one or
two piston calipers even though the piston area is
> >>
doubled.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 15:23:00 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New
To List/Few Questions..
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 16:35:05
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>Bah, I didnt spend 3 hours on it. :) I pulled out my drill and
drilled the
>original air box OFF of the MAS, then used vice grips :)
Anyone want my
>air box? :)
Lucky you, I didn't have any power
tools available to me :(.
But after hearing the responses regarding the
honey-comb pieces, are they
available individually so I can replace the ones
that got screwed up? If
so, can I get them from the dealer, or will I
have to go someplace else? If
someplace else, any ideas or
recommendations?
Thanks,
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 19:12:43 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To:
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Rear brake change, piston theory
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 21:59:54
-0800
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Sorry about the second part. My father is a Mech Eng. and I
spoke to him
right after
I posted that. I am an electrical eng., but
no excuses, I should have
thought it out more.
I discussed it with my dad,
and he said the other pistons are probably there
to provide
more even pad
wear by keeping the force more evenly distributed.
Oh well an
attempt
Sam
-----Original Message-----
From: xwing
<xwing@execpc.com>
To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 1:44
PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Rear brake change, piston
theory
>
>
>Sam Shelat wrote:
>
>> If
you set this up like a statics problem, if there is one force
applied
at
>> one side, the amount of breaking force = the force
applied x the
coefficient
>> of friction of the pads/rotor
surface. If only one force=F is applied to
>> one side, the
non-moving side has an equal but opposite force X its pad/
>> rotor
coefficient. If there are two forces, the same dynamics
apply.
>
>----You are right about all of that.
>
>>
Although the two forces as vectors cancel each other out, there
are
internal
>> compressive forces equal to 2 x F. This means
the equal and opposite
force
>> = double the original. Hence
the two piston is double the clamping force
of
>> a single
piston. The areas of frictional contact (pads) stay the
same,
but
>> the force is doubled, assuming the same pad area and
coefficients.
>
>----But you went wrong here. Re-read the
first paragraph. There are no
>mysterious INTERNAL forces or
monkey-motion. If you press on
>one side, there is an equal and
opposite force on the OTHER side,
>UNLESS the other side's force is LESSER
in which case the other side is
>being pushed (accelerated by force
difference) AWAY. It is not forced
away;
>the brake disc is kept
centered because the forces are equal and opposite.
>
>The OTHER
side consists of either an immovable wall,
>or a movable piston. The
force applied is in either case
>exactly the SAME, and must equal the
force applied by the FIRST piston.
>
>Multiple pistons allow the
opposite "wall" to float outward, so as the pads
>wear the brake
DISC stays centered rather than being forced toward the
>immovable side as
the immovable side's pad wears down...note how Mitsu
>single piston rear,
the whole CALIPER floats to avoid this problem; while
the
>FRONT
calipers are solid-mounted -- the opposing pistons float on
the
immovable
>(centered) rotor.
>
>Jack
Tertadian
>
>> I have not thought about this in about 6 years
during my Engineering
schooling
>> Sam 95
VR4
>>
>> From: Kevin
<Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
>> >I am sorry to say, but you are
wrong. Double the area, double the
force.
>> >It does not
matter if the pistons are opposing or not.
>>
>>
>>
>From: <Muratokcu@aol.com>
>> >> keep in mind, the
pistons are opposing. Therefore, the clamping force
is
>> >>
equal between one or two piston calipers even though the piston
area
is
>> >> doubled.
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Nov 7 19:19:42 1999
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Reply-To:
"Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brake Piston
Theory...
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 22:18:00 -0500
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Sam.... This post makes more sense than any other I've read in
this
thread. Many times the most simplistic answer is the most
correct.
Thanx....
-Gil
Sorry about the second part. My
father is a Mech Eng. and I spoke to him
right after
I posted that.
I am an electrical eng., but no excuses, I should have
thought it out
more.
I discussed it with my dad, and he said the other pistons are probably
there
to provide
more even pad wear by keeping the force more evenly
distributed.
Oh well an attempt
Sam
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 19:26:10 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell"
<benson@2015.com>
Subject: Re: Honeycombs was Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 19:24:15 -0800
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bulk
Benson;
Re the honeycombs: wrecking yards are always a good
place to start and
chances are they haven't a clue and may sell cheap...on
the other hand you
might have to buy the entire MAS if they are
$#i+heads. Get a dealers price
first so you have an idea of what
they're worth but I expect not cheap.
I have heard that there have been
favorable removals of these in non TT
applications, but in TT's it is usually
the pits. Even in the NA
applications, it's a hit and miss
thing.
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Benson
"elmagoo" Russell <benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, November 07, 1999 3:31
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
>>Bah, I
didnt spend 3 hours on it. :) I pulled out my drill and drilled
the
>>original air box OFF of the MAS, then used vice grips :) Anyone
want my
>>air box? :)
>
>Lucky you, I didn't have any power
tools available to me :(.
>
>But after hearing the responses
regarding the honey-comb pieces, are they
>available individually so I can
replace the ones that got screwed up? If
>so, can I get them from
the dealer, or will I have to go someplace else?
If
>someplace else,
any ideas or recommendations?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Latuh fuh
U,
>Benson
>benson@2015.com
>
>"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
>-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 19:37:50 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Piston
Theory...
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 1999 20:39:29 -0700
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The reason for
opposing pistons is actually both. That is, it applies more
evenly
distibuted pressure across the pad surface to the disc, and it also
allows
floating without having to float the caliper.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Sam.... This post makes more sense
than any other I've read in this
> thread. Many times the most
simplistic answer is the most correct.
> Thanx....
> -Gil
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 7 22:57:00 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Went drag racing today,
need some opinions !
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bulk
Roger,
I'm not sure what you are recommending
for wires but I hope it's not Magnecor. I'm
not in the business of
making spark plug wires, and I'm no electrical engineer, but what
I do know
about electricity is that the less resistance and voltage drop the
better.
It's common knowledge (even Magnecor admits it) that their voltage
drop isn't very low,
from what I've heard they compare to stock wires on our
cars. At this level of
modifications I doubt any wires would help
much. There are 11 second DSMs running
factory wires. I myself
have run 12s (something I recall you and others telling me I
couldn't do)
utilizing Accel wires, and I'm 99.99 percent sure that Mike Mahaffey
runs
Accel also. As far as the boost controller goes maybe we should
talk to Jack Tertadian
about running low 12s with a bleeder valve. I
have the feeling it's more than just
driver error, something's not
right. I've run 13.36 with just a filter and pump gas, no
other mods at
all. Worse time ever was a 14.07 and that was with missed gears, pump
gas
and just a filter for mods. Just recently I ran 13.21 with a
slipping clutch, failing
2nd gear synchronizer and pump gas, my best 60' was
1.86 if I recall correctly.
I don't want to scare him, but
I think a decent running car with similar mods should
run a slowest 1/4 of
14.5, not a best. The only way bad driving would make that much of
a
difference should be if it was so bad he knew it was a problem and he
probably
wouldn't have written in asking for help. I would suggest
checking the boost controller
install and also checking to see what kind of
boost it's actually making, preferably
with a nice boost gauge. What
kind of altitude are you at?
I really don't want to step
on anyone's toes but I think such comments should be
stated more like the
opinions they are. Wording like this would suggest that it's
common
knowledge that Accel wires are junk, that's just not the case. The only
reason I
would say that low 13s aren't possible is given the facts that we
have in this
particular situation, his car isn't running well. In my
opinion, with more experience
and a well running car, low 13s and high 12s
are a
possibility.
Jason
http://www.erols.com/danebar
>
>
> New Accell plug wires
>
> I think I Already mentioned the
Accell wires are not recommended on our cars.
>
> > Blitz SSBC
set to 1.05 bar
>
> You do not set the SSBC to a specific boost
level but you use paramters to set
> it. They are maybe off as the SSBC
are made for smaller cars with single turbos
> (DSM)
>
> >
1/4 mile -
14.521
> > 1/4 mile mph - 97.05
>
> With more
experience, you may brake into the 13s... but I doubt low 13s !
>
>
> I was hoping for low 13 second times, and I have seen similar cars
going
> > 13.2 with 60' times close to mine.
>
> I don't
think that they had Accels and a SSBC and you probably went the too
>
cheap way with your mods :-/
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Nov 7 23:06:43 1999
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From:
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To: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell"
<benson@2015.com>,
"3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Sun, 7 Nov
1999 23:10:29 -0800
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Hey Benson and all,
Just to let all of u know..I removed the
honey combs on my MAF two years
ago... and ever since ..my car has been
idling like crap. I thought at first
it was the TPS and IAC sensor...got
those replaced including a throttle body
clean out and injector clean out.
Did practically everything including a
leak-down test...MY POINT is that I
wasted alot of time and money (I think)
as it could have been due to those
stupid honey combs I removed. Hau Wang
said it was fine as he did that on his
95 VR4 but guess what? I think it is
not very fine afterall. To cut my
babbling story short...I called up
Tallahassee Mitsu and spoke to Jeremy. The
cost of a new MAF unit is approx:
398.62$ including shipping (I think) and
this is with the 3S discount. Part
Number is MD183618.
However,
msrecycling.com called me back the other day and they have used
MAFs taken
from "receycled" VR4's and they are selling it for 270$
shipping
included. I spoke to someone by the name of Curtis.
Hope this
helps ...and Benson please check take note on when u removed those
honey
combs as if your idle begins to fluctuate during cold temperatures or
at any
period of time..then u know u have been pulled into "The Storm of
the
Century" (Sorry got a bit dramatic there)
Later
everyone,
Julian Ng
94 Pearl White VR4
Seattle Shipyard Shooting
Washington :)
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell
<benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Saturday, November 06, 1999
12:05 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
>That's a good question about the honey-comb
things. When I put on my K&N,
>it was hell and high-water to get
that damn original air-box off of the
MAS.
>I accidentally in the
process destroyed the two smaller honeycomb pieces on
>the side (the
rounded ones), but managed to salvage the big one in the
>center. So
I'm running with just one of those pieces in due to engineering
>stupidity
on those damn 4 screws that hold the MAS to the stock air-box.
It
>took
me 3+ hours and a friends help to get those two things separated,
and
I
>had to totally shred the bottom portion of the stock
air-box. It's an
>amusing story to say the least
:).
>
>
>Latuh fuh
U,
>Benson
>benson@2015.com
>
>"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
>-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 00:59:17 1999
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From: "Jose Soriano"
<amahoser@linkline.com>
To: "Ken Middaugh"
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<3819F1E1.7D26C4F0@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Throttle body
adjustment screw
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 00:29:11 -0800
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> Has anybody else blown out a throttle body adjustment
screw? I've never
heard
> of such a story so I thought I'd
relay mine...
I have! Went through the same thing you did. The dealer I went
to said they
had the screw in stock. I went down to pick it up and it was the
wrong
screw. They then told me it was not available and I would have to order
an
entire throttlebody assy. I decided to hold off and see if I can get
the
part some other way. Anyways I called up M&S recycling and they DID
have the
idle adust screw!! But they wanted a fortune for it. (can't remember
how
much but I believe around $60!!!) Well I figured that it was cheaper
than
the throotle body assy. I ordered it. Worked like a champ!! BTW the
screw
they gave me was metal NOT plastic.
Jose
Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com
'91 Stealth RT/TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 02:33:00 1999
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Reply-To: <lehir@genesiscom.ch>
From:
lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Any specific
instructions on 3S to do a compression test
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 10:37:32
+0100
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Hello
I
still have problems with my *ç%&/( Stealth RT/TT
Found out
that as the engine is cold I have quite some amount of air blown
trough the
oil refill opening.....but it goes away when the engine is warm.
It's
probably time for a compression test..
And specific instructions for the
Dodge ?
Henri
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 08:51:49 1999
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Date:
Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:51:06 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM turbo's on 3/S
cars.
To: billi_gates@hotmail.com,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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what about
switching the center section only? would a 1st gen eclipse A/T 13g
work on a
T/T then?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 09:11:00 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'3s'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: SF Area
AutoX
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 09:09:34 -0800
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Well..I went,
and Oakland Coll. will probably not be a place I will wanna
autox
again.
Was a total sandbox by the 3rd set of runs.
I
eeked out a time to equal a Ferrari in my class, but being on race
rubber
really hurt me in the gravel being torn up out of the
asphalt.
If the local region hosts a race on a stable surface, I'll be
there, and KILLING
people, not just catching up.
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 09:27:55 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: DSM 13G cartridge in 3/S turbos
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 11:27:37 -0600
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I forgot who
asked, but I don't think you could just drop in a cartridge from a DSM auto
tranny turbo for the rear turbo. I think the vanes on the compressor and
exhaust side wheel would also need to be reversed since the flow through both
sides is reversed. You could look in the intake side of the rear turbo and
see if it matches the front side. If that's reversed, you know you are in
trouble.
Interesting idea though... Maybe you could get the
internals for the front side turbo, and somehow acquire a reversed one for the
rear. Or just buy a rear 13G and save a ton of money.
-Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 10:20:31 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 10:19:03
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
General Atomics - Fusion Group
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To: Matt Wise
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
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Most all
questions have been answered, but here is one that puzzled me for
a
while.
> 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the
drivetrain... Is that
> accurate? If so, how much does a smaller pulley
help?
Roger, Jim, & Mikael measured drivetrain loss on an AWD dyno
earlier this year
to be about 99 HP. Loss is 99 HP if your engine is
stock or modified to 600HP.
Thus you don't want to mention drivetrain loss
as a percentage unless you also
include the flywheel HP.
e.g.
99/300 = 33% loss
99/600 = 16.5%
loss
Enjoy your new VR4!
--
I'm just driving this way to piss
you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 10:58:34 1999
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Missing & Check
engine????
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 12:58:26 -0600
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Hey guys... I have one for ya!
Yesterday I was
installing my new Apexi R BC. Using Brian's instructions I
pulled the
plugs and regapped the NGK's to .034. I put everything back
together
and installed the BC.
Installing the BC:
I capped the
bottom line of the stock solenoid. Then I routed the line from
the
Y-pipe to "NC" on the BC solenoid. (NC is the IN on the
solenoid) Then
I routed the "COM" or OUT on the BC solenoid
to a port on the 4-way.
Once I fished everything and double checked it
all..... I started the car.
WHAT??? Its missing! And the
check engine light it on.... I go back and
recheck everything.
Everything seems to be connected. Now... Insert
favorite four
letter words!!!!
I then go back and remover the intake and recheck all
the plugs and wires...
Reassymble.... Same thing!! I return to
the stock BC to the stock
setup...and its still missing with the check engine
light ON! More four
letter words!
Anybody have any advice or
have ran into this problem before? I worked with
the battery
disconnected and reset the ECU each time I changed something.
Thanks for
your help!!!
Trent Owens
95 RT TT
Totally stock except for .34
NGK's. And if I can get this taken care of..
Apexi-R
BC.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 11:12:06 1999
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
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That doesnt make
sense to me... I've NEVER heard of drivetrain loss being
measured as a
streight amount of HP loss. Its ALWAYS been (as far as I
remember) thought of
as a percentage.
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On
Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Most all questions have been
answered, but here is one that puzzled me for a
> while.
>
>
> 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the drivetrain... Is
that
> > accurate? If so, how much does a smaller pulley help?
>
> Roger, Jim, & Mikael measured drivetrain loss on an AWD dyno
earlier this year
> to be about 99 HP. Loss is 99 HP if your engine
is stock or modified to 600HP.
> Thus you don't want to mention
drivetrain loss as a percentage unless you also
> include the flywheel
HP.
>
> e.g. 99/300 = 33%
loss
> 99/600 = 16.5%
loss
>
> Enjoy your new VR4!
>
> --
> I'm just
driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 11:28:08 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'Owens, Trent L.'"
<Trent.Owens@destia.com>,
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Missing &
Check engine????
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:28:00 -0600
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> Once I
fished everything and double checked it all..... I
> started the
car. WHAT??? Its missing! And the check
> engine light
it on.... I go back and recheck everything.
> Everything seems to be
connected. Now... Insert
> favorite four letter
words!!!!
If you connected the line from the AVC-R to an injector
line
or RPM, check to make sure the line didn't get cut when you
spliced
it. Sounds like maybe you spliced into an injector
wire and the ECU
isn't getting the signal to the coil pack.
Maybe.....
I'd check that
first.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:29:49 -0600
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> That doesnt
make sense to me... I've NEVER heard of
> drivetrain loss being measured
as a streight amount
> of HP loss. Its ALWAYS been (as far as I
remember)
> thought of as a percentage.
Why would the amount of
loss be dynamic? Shouldn't
there be the same amount of inertia or
friction
regardless of the input power? The percentage
thing makes
less sense.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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I dont know..
I've always been tought that it was dynamic..
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Matt Jannusch
wrote:
> > That doesnt make sense to me... I've NEVER heard of
> > drivetrain loss being measured as a streight amount
> >
of HP loss. Its ALWAYS been (as far as I remember)
> > thought of as a
percentage.
>
> Why would the amount of loss be dynamic?
Shouldn't
> there be the same amount of inertia or friction
>
regardless of the input power? The percentage
> thing makes less
sense.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Reply-To: <markelkin@mindspring.com>
From: "Mark
Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New To List/Few
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bulk
I am not an engineer, but, if losses through the drivetrain are
static, does
that mean that it takes ~99 hp from the engine just to get the
car to roll?
I am probably simplifying somewhat, but, I have a difficult time
believing
that. Do frictional losses through a drivetrain not vary with
velocity
(similar to the way drag increases in proportion to square of speed
when
looking at aerodynamics ). Also, I guess drivetrain oil/lubricants
may
behave differently at different temps but differences may be negligible
when
looking at hp.
Any engineers able to explain ?
-Mark '96
3KGT VR4
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Matt Jannusch
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 14:30
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
> That doesnt make sense to me... I've NEVER heard
of
> drivetrain loss being measured as a straight amount
> of HP
loss. Its ALWAYS been (as far as I remember)
> thought of as a
percentage.
Why would the amount of loss be dynamic?
Shouldn't
there be the same amount of inertia or friction
regardless of
the input power? The percentage
thing makes less
sense.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov
1999 14:56:08 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM 13G cartridge in 3/S turbos
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I will throw in
a more controversial idea, how about assymetric turbos? I
mean, a big turbo
just for the front?
SAAB has a V6 with a turbo on only one bank, feeding
both banks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
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if so, then what
would happen if I only had 98HP? would I be able to go
anywhere?
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 12:04:00 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:03:50 -0600
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> I am not an
engineer, but, if losses through the drivetrain
> are static, does that
mean that it takes ~99 hp from the
> engine just to get the car to
roll? I am probably
> simplifying somewhat, but, I have a difficult
time
> believing that. Do frictional losses through a
>
drivetrain not vary with velocity (similar to the way
> drag increases in
proportion to square of speed when
> looking at aerodynamics ).
Also, I guess drivetrain
> oil/lubricants may behave differently at
different temps
> but differences may be negligible when looking at
hp.
>
> Any engineers able to explain ?
I'm not an engineer,
but I'll try to clarify my thinking...
Drag on a drivetrain is often
expressed as a percentage of output power from the engine. If your motor
is putting out 320 HP (stock for '94-99 3/S cars) and on the dyno you measure
240 HP then theoretically at your HP peak you are seeing a 25% drivetrain loss
(240/320), assuming that your motor actually makes 320 HP.
Now if you
pump up your motor so it is outputting 800 HP, will your dyno run indicate 740
HP or will it indicate 600 HP? I'm going to put my money on 740 HP.
The frictional and inertial losses shouldn't increase in proportion to the
amount of power being input to the system. They should remain the same as
it takes a certain amount of work to cause the rotation of the parts and
overcome any other frictional losses.
To answer Mark's first
question:
Does it take 99hp to get the car rolling? No. It
takes 99hp to maintain the amount of power and speed transmitted to the dyno
rollers at the time the measurement was taken. These losses will be a lot
lower at slower speeds.
Not saying that's the case, but I'm not seeing
opposing views yet...
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 12:07:06 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:06:58 -0600
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> if so, then
what would happen if I only had 98HP? would I be
> able to go
anywhere?
You would already be moving, since that amount is calculated
somewhere around 5500 RPM in third gear. You'd have a difficult time going
faster though, and overcoming the wind resistance would be
tough.
:-)
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 12:07:21 1999
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From:
"Owens, Trent L." <Trent.Owens@destia.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Missing &
Check engine????
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:07:14 -0600
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Thanks for
everyone's help!
As for the wiring of the Apexi..... I had
already installed the monitoring
part of the boost controller a week ago so I
would know what the stock
measurements were. Everything works well with
the wiring. I tapped into
the RPM wire because our injectors get maxed
out too early. No problems
with the wiring.
However..... I
backtracked and checked all the vac hoses, connections and
even though I
didnt remove it, the MAS connection. The Boost control has
been
returned to stock and I still get a check engine and missfire.
I
believe it is only missing on one cylinder because it idles and runs
ok....
just rough with not as much power..... Still getting 12psi of
boost too.
Im really confused! Does the ECU monitor the ignition
other than a missing
connection? In other words, would it detect a
broken plug or wire? I dont
think it does.... but I could be
wrong!
Again, thanks for your help!
Trent
95 RT
TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Owens, Trent L.
To:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Sent: 11/8/99 12:58 PM
Subject: Team3S:
Missing & Check engine????
Hey guys... I have one for
ya!
Yesterday I was installing my new Apexi R BC. Using
Brian's
instructions I
pulled the plugs and regapped the NGK's to
.034. I put everything back
together and installed the BC.
Installing the BC:
I capped the bottom line of the stock
solenoid. Then I routed the line
from
the Y-pipe to "NC"
on the BC solenoid. (NC is the IN on the solenoid)
Then
I routed the
"COM" or OUT on the BC solenoid to a port on the 4-way.
Once I
fished everything and double checked it all..... I started
the
car.
WHAT??? Its missing! And the check engine light it
on.... I go back
and
recheck everything. Everything seems to
be connected. Now... Insert
favorite four letter
words!!!!
I then go back and remover the intake and recheck all the plugs
and
wires...
Reassymble.... Same thing!! I return to the stock
BC to the stock
setup...and its still missing with the check engine light
ON! More four
letter words!
Anybody have any advice or have ran
into this problem before? I worked
with
the battery disconnected and
reset the ECU each time I changed
something.
Thanks for your
help!!!
Trent Owens
95 RT TT
Totally stock except for .34
NGK's. And if I can get this taken care
of..
Apexi-R
BC.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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References:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Went drag racing
today, need some opinions !
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 20:59:34
+0100
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Precedence:
bulk
> I'm not sure what you are recommending for wires but I hope
it's not
Magnecor. I'm
> not in the business of making spark plug
wires, and I'm no electrical
engineer, but what
> I do know about
electricity is that the less resistance and voltage drop
the
better.
Sure, but also read the stuff about the skin-effect in the
ee-books :) The
current will travel in the wire but also on the surface there
is an electric
field that acts like a carrier and this results in the skin
effect. I forgot
the most about it but I know that I made some experiments
with the stuff and
it worked :)
> It's common knowledge (even
Magnecor admits it) that their voltage drop
isn't very low,
> from what
I've heard they compare to stock wires on our cars. At this
level
of
> modifications I doubt any wires would help much.
Absolutely
right ! The stock wires will hold up to whatever. No need to
change them !
BUT, any wire works with the help of the skin effect, but the
Magnecores are
designed to use it. Therefore the build up of the wire is
different and
electrical shorts due to water or the wire lying on the heads
is not a
problem (better said: should not be a problem)
> I myself have
run 12s (something I recall you and others telling me I
couldn't do)
>
utilizing Accel wires, and I'm 99.99 percent sure that Mike Mahaffey
runs
> Accel also.
Sure, if everything is ok with the wires, why
should they hinder you running
fast times ? I myself wouldn't buy Accels, nor
Taylor nor Magnecors although
I have the later ones. Each of them have a
drawback and I haven't found the
really good ones yet.
> As far as
the boost controller goes maybe we should talk to Jack Tertadian
> about
running low 12s with a bleeder valve.
Not again the same discussion :-((
Why not asking one how fast he can go
with a plugged up y-pipe nipple, eh ?
I'm sure he'll run into the 12s easily
even with a passenger, and two
hot-dogs in one and a can of popcorn i nthe
other hand, LOL. What do you
think can rise boost quicker ? A bleeder or a
BC with a controlled valve ?
For this, you may get a new Apexi and record
the runs with a bleeder valve
installed and then with the BC solenoid.
> I have the feeling
it's more than just driver error, something's not
right.
> I've
run 13.36 with just a filter and pump gas, no other mods at all.
Wow, you
must be a very good driver as this is what a lot people do with max
boost at
15psi ! Btw, 5 or 6 speed ?
> Wording like this would suggest that
it's common knowledge that Accel
wires
> are junk, that's just not the
case.
Well, they were junk on my Camaro and the Taylor are better but
still not
the real good ones.
> The only reason I would say that
low 13s aren't possible is given the
facts that
> we have in this
particular situation, his car isn't running well.
Absolutely right, and
if he's doing better and runs into low 12s with 15 psi
with the Accells will
show that they are good in the car. That's why I told
him to look for
anything else BEFORE he changes the wires (dunno if it was a
private
reply).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 12:15:34 1999
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From: "R.G."
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To: "3000GT Mailing"
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References:
<013501bf29b8$587a6200$8644e4d8@oemcomputer>
Subject: Re: Honey Combs
....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 21:05:30
+0100
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bulk
Guys, wait before buying a new MAF as maybe a simple mesh of
stainless steel
will help. This is what the MAFs have in the
Camaro/Firebird/Corvettes. If
you removed the front plastic part, you may be
able to secure such a mesh
behind it and it should straigthen the flow just
enough. The sensor is in
the middle part and it is maybe enough just to
insert a screen there. You
can try different mesh sizes and you'll notice
pretty fast how good the idle
is. Just make sure to drive the car a little to
let it learn until it idles
correctly.
Good
luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> Hope this helps ...and Benson please
check take note on when u removed
those
> honey combs as if your idle
begins to fluctuate during cold temperatures
or
> at any period of
time..then u know u have been pulled into "The Storm of
the
>
Century" (Sorry got a bit dramatic there)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 12:33:56 1999
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Date: Mon,
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From: Jeff Schwartz
<jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Organization: Citicorp
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Missing &
Check engine????
References:
<F99F3F7C7049D211BC700008C7B1F0900318D5D4@texas.econophone.com>
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Precedence: bulk
First thing I
would do is to get the code from the check engine light.
There is a
pin, (I have to look up which pin) on the OBD connector
which when you short
it to ground, the check engine light will flash
with the code for the
problem. The codes are in the repair manual, or
I might have them, I
have to look.
I had the exact same problem and it turned out to be a
wire going to
one of the rear fuel injectors had poped out just enough not
to make
a connection. I had to use epoxy to clue the wire back in or
buy a
new fuel injector connector. Just a guess, but check all the
wiring
to the injectors coz they are easy to knock out while changing
the
plugs.
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl
VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
Owens, Trent L. wrote:
>
> Hey guys... I have one for ya!
>
> Yesterday I was
installing my new Apexi R BC. Using Brian's instructions I
> pulled
the plugs and regapped the NGK's to .034. I put everything back
>
together and installed the BC.
>
> Installing the BC:
>
> I capped the bottom line of the stock solenoid. Then I routed the
line from
> the Y-pipe to "NC" on the BC solenoid. (NC is
the IN on the solenoid) Then
> I routed the "COM" or OUT
on the BC solenoid to a port on the 4-way.
>
> Once I fished
everything and double checked it all..... I started the car.
>
WHAT??? Its missing! And the check engine light it on.... I go
back and
> recheck everything. Everything seems to be
connected. Now... Insert
> favorite four letter
words!!!!
>
> I then go back and remover the intake and recheck all
the plugs and wires...
> Reassymble.... Same thing!! I return
to the stock BC to the stock
> setup...and its still missing with the
check engine light ON! More four
> letter words!
>
>
Anybody have any advice or have ran into this problem before? I worked
with
> the battery disconnected and reset the ECU each time I changed
something.
>
> Thanks for your help!!!
>
> Trent
Owens
> 95 RT TT
>
> Totally stock except for .34
NGK's. And if I can get this taken care of..
> Apexi-R BC.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 12:34:53 1999
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From: "R.G."
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To:
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References:
<000c01bf2a22$3b2b2080$833aa380@novel.uky.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Drivetrain loss (was: new..)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 21:34:12
+0100
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bulk
EE yes, but I had a window place during physics, LOL. Matt Jannusch
is very
right in his descriptions as it's simply physics what is going on
here.
In short, drivetrain loss is dynamic BUT it relates on a lot stuff
! Looking
at the dyno runs one must know that the tests have been done in 4th
gear.
The easist calculation is : the higher the speed the more the loss. But
it
is not linear as the rolling friction relates on the tires, the weight
of
the wheel/tires (the wider the worser !) the oil temp, the bearings
and
more. Please note, the loss is tested with the clutch pressed and the
tranny
put to neutral to get the real loss of tranny and transfer case, i.e.
the
drive train.
The only percentage you can tell is at the peak
horsepower. And this is then
very related to the car tested and therefore you
can only say that the loss
is about 30% when measuring the peak hp at the
same rpm/speed for each other
car. But if you change the exhaust, you may
shift the power band and the
percentage loss at the same rpm as before is
lower or higher.
To summerize the stuff : The drivetrain loss is a
non-linear power curve
that follows the rpm/speed band. It is not
calculateable as there are too
many variables. A % for the loss is only
a very rough estimate that depends
on the rpm. If the same car produces 400hp
at 6000 and the loss is 120hp the
loss is still the same with the same
drivetrain but with an engine making
500hp at the same
rpm.
Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 12:37:23 1999
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Team3: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Redline MTL or
MT-90???
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What does
everyone recommend for use in the Transmission,
Transfer Case, and Rear
Axel. I get different stories from
different speed shops. I have
a 95 VR4.
The cars specs show to use 75W90 in the Trani and Xfer
case.
I spoke to Redline, but their tech was out, so the person on
staff told me that for New York, to use MTL, which is a
75W/80W, and a
little thinner for the colder weather we have
here. MT-90 is a 75W90
oil. Shouldn't I stick with the
manufactures specs?
Also,
should I use the same oil in the trasfer case as well?
For the rear axel,
they said to use Redline 75W90 gear oil.
They said the Shock Proof
heavy is too thick for the every day
driver. It's really made for
racing and will be too thick for
general
use.
Thanks,
Jeff
--
Jeff
Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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References:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Missing & Check engine????
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 21:41:54
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bulk
> However..... I backtracked and checked all the vac hoses,
connections and
> even though I didnt remove it, the MAS connection.
The Boost control has
> been returned to stock and I still get a check
engine and missfire. I
> believe it is only missing on one cylinder
because it idles and runs
ok....
> just rough with not as much
power..... Still getting 12psi of boost too.
I guess you
accidentially disconnected some wires to the injectors or the
plug wires or
there is a short in one or more of the wires.
> Im really
confused! Does the ECU monitor the ignition other than
a
missing
> connection? In other words, would it detect a broken
plug or wire? I
dont
> think it does.... but I could be
wrong!
Yes, it does. It is able to detect the problems as it listens to
the knock
sensor when a cylinder ignites. If no "sound" is heard
after a specific time
the ECU waits for some other tries and if the problem
is still there it
determines that there is a real problem.
As you
removed the plenum it is possible that you created a problem by
scratching
something. You may try to get out the code to see what the ECU
reads. When
fixed, reset the ECU so the code will be cleared. Otherwise it
is possible
that it runs in emergency mode and dosn't come out of it.
Good
luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 13:02:42 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: the
honeycomb shtuff :)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:00:26 -0600
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> Hope this helps ...and Benson please check take note on when u
removed
those
> honey combs as if your idle begins to fluctuate during
cold temperatures
or
> at any period of time..then u know u have been
pulled into "The Storm of
the
> Century" (Sorry got a bit
dramatic there)
Well I have a '95 non-turbo 3000 so that might be
making a difference. The
car has never had a problem idling after
putting the K&N back on, but there
was one pecular problem that did
happen. When the car sat off for a long
time (as in over-night), when I
would get in to drive the car, no matter
what gear I started out in (meaning
either 1st, or reverse), unless I
applied a ton of gas (as in getting to
about 5000 rpms), the car would start
to choke and almost stall right as the
gear was engaging as I let up on the
clutch. But almost immediately
after I drove for about 5 seconds, it
wouldn't do that again (it was as if
the ECU had to quickly re-learn the
air-flow or something). It took
about 2 weeks or so for the car to stop
doing that all together, so I guess
the ECU was just learning and adjusting
over that time period. It has
ever done that since, except for now that
it's getting colder. It will
do that same problem until the engine has
warmed up, and then it disappears
(which isn't a problem really, because I
always warm my car in the cold
weather).
But that's the only problem I've experienced after the K&N,
but never a
problem with the idle. Any ideas what this
is?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you
ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 13:08:32 -0800
To: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
From: Jim Watkins
<jwatkins@terayon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I'm an engineer
(electrical, not mechanical). It seems that Matt is
closest to the
truth. Looking at a 2nd gen car for numbers, the losses are
roughly
linearly related from 0 to 95 hp over the 700 to 6000 rpm band.
So, losses
increase with increasing engine speed. If you take each gear to
6000
rpm, when shifting to higher gears the rpm will stay above 3000 and
the
losses will not drop to 0, but to something over 40 HP. Think of it
as
a sawtooth pattern, where the losses increase with rpm until you shift
and
then they drop down to a lower level. The sawtooth does have a
higher
starting point with each shift because the gears are closer together
and
each upshift from 6000 rpm results in a higher starting rpm for the
next
gear. But if you want to calculate HP losses at maximum engine
power, they
are approximately 95 HP, not a percentage of the total HP.
If you could
get your engine to rev to 8000 or 9000, losses would be higher
at those
revs...
Jim
'95 300GT Spyder VR4
At 02:03 PM
11/08/1999 -0600, Matt Jannusch wrote:
>> I am not an engineer, but, if
losses through the drivetrain
>> are static, does that mean that it
takes ~99 hp from the
>> engine just to get the car to roll? I am
probably
>> simplifying somewhat, but, I have a difficult
time
>> believing that. Do frictional losses through
a
>> drivetrain not vary with velocity (similar to the way
>>
drag increases in proportion to square of speed when
>> looking at
aerodynamics ). Also, I guess drivetrain
>> oil/lubricants may
behave differently at different temps
>> but differences may be
negligible when looking at hp.
>>
>> Any engineers able to
explain ?
>
>I'm not an engineer, but I'll try to clarify my
thinking...
>
>Drag on a drivetrain is often expressed as a
percentage of output power
from the engine. If your motor is putting
out 320 HP (stock for '94-99 3/S
cars) and on the dyno you measure 240 HP
then theoretically at your HP peak
you are seeing a 25% drivetrain loss
(240/320), assuming that your motor
actually makes 320 HP.
>
>Now
if you pump up your motor so it is outputting 800 HP, will your dyno
run
indicate 740 HP or will it indicate 600 HP? I'm going to put my
money
on 740 HP. The frictional and inertial losses shouldn't increase
in
proportion to the amount of power being input to the system. They
should
remain the same as it takes a certain amount of work to cause the
rotation
of the parts and overcome any other frictional
losses.
>
>To answer Mark's first question:
>
>Does it
take 99hp to get the car rolling? No. It takes 99hp to
maintain
the amount of power and speed transmitted to the dyno rollers at the
time
the measurement was taken. These losses will be a lot lower at
slower speeds.
>
>Not saying that's the case, but I'm not seeing
opposing views yet...
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:10:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 13:10:00
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Re: Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
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> That
doesnt make sense to me... I've NEVER heard of drivetrain loss being
>
measured as a streight amount of HP loss. Its ALWAYS been (as far as I
>
remember) thought of as a percentage.
Sure, it often is expressed as a
percentage. But the complete description is "a
percentage of the
stock flywheel HP". You can't say it is a percentage unless
you
say what it is a percentage of. In reality, loss is a constant
regardless
of the engine flywheel HP.
Hopefully this example
will illustrate the pitfall of using loss as a
percentage. Say someone
(me:)) has a G-Tech Pro. They measure a wheel HP of
201 on a stock 1st
gen. So to calculate engine flywheel HP, they use the
formula:
flywheel HP = wheel HP / (1 - loss), or 201 / ( 1 - .33 ) = 300.
That
answer looks good and is indeed correct because the loss is 33% of 300
HP. Now
they make some mods, K&N FIPK bleeder valve, then measure
260 wheel HP. Using
the above incorrect assumption and formula, they
would erroneously calculate the
flywheel HP as 260 / ( 1 - .33 ) = 388.
The correct formula is: wheel HP +
loss HP = flywheel HP, or 260 + 99 =
359.
I hope that clarifies things a bit,
Ken
> --Matt
Wise
> *NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 8 Nov
1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > Most all questions have been
answered, but here is one that puzzled me for a
> > while.
>
>
> > > 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the
drivetrain... Is that
> > > accurate? If so, how much does a smaller
pulley help?
> >
> > Roger, Jim, & Mikael measured
drivetrain loss on an AWD dyno earlier this year
> > to be about 99
HP. Loss is 99 HP if your engine is stock or modified to 600HP.
>
> Thus you don't want to mention drivetrain loss as a percentage unless you
also
> > include the flywheel HP.
> >
> > e.g.
99/300 = 33% loss
> >
99/600 = 16.5% loss
> >
> > Enjoy your new VR4!
>
>
> > --
> > I'm just driving this way to piss you
off!
> >
> > Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> > General Atomics
> > San Diego
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
--
I'm just driving this way to
piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:15:20 1999
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From:
"Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S
List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Test for
dying clutch?
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:14:59 -0800
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Hey
guys,
Quick question:
How do you test a clutch you suspect may be
on the verge of wearing out?
Things I've noticed:
* Engagement
point has migrated upward significantly (only 1" or so
from top of pedal
travel) since it was new
* Clutch "feel" is pretty soft/forgiving
lately
* It *might* have slipped slightly today...
Slowing down for
traffic in 2nd, going about 7mph.
Too lazy to go for 1st, so I just
accelerated when traffic moved.
Not flooring it, but on the throttle a
bit.
Felt a very slight slip as I accelerated.
Car seemed to drive
normally after that.
So does that sound conclusive to you? If it's
going, I guess I should
probably make an appointment to get it replaced now,
but I don't want to
jump the gun. I could adjust the pedal so the
engagement point is farther
down, but I don't want to simply mask the problem
for a few days if the
clutch is going...
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 63,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi
***
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:19:33 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Ken
Middaugh'"
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>,
Matt Wise
<diranged@hearme.com>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
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No way..I cant
buy that.
Loss is a percentage.
Your math tells me im producing
99Hp to turn the wheels, much less move the car.
-----Original
Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent:
Monday, November 08, 1999 10:19 AM
To: Matt Wise
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
Most all questions have been answered, but here is one
that puzzled me for a
while.
> 6) I've heard that our cars loose
%33 through the drivetrain... Is that
> accurate? If so, how much does a
smaller pulley help?
Roger, Jim, & Mikael measured drivetrain loss on
an AWD dyno earlier this year
to be about 99 HP. Loss is 99 HP if your
engine is stock or modified to 600HP.
Thus you don't want to mention
drivetrain loss as a percentage unless you also
include the flywheel
HP.
e.g. 99/300 = 33%
loss
99/600 = 16.5%
loss
Enjoy your new VR4!
--
I'm just driving this way to piss
you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 13:21:00 1999
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From:
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To:
"'Muratokcu@aol.com'" <Muratokcu@aol.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 13G cartridge in 3/S
turbos
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:22:44 -0800
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Ive considered
that, but the intake systetms are connected at the TB.
An upgraded turbo
would just 'backfill' the smaller turbo's IC plumbing.
It would not
result in a increase, as that one turbo would not be doing 1/2 the
work, but
more like 3/4 the work (depending on turbos used..etc)
-----Original
Message-----
From: Muratokcu@aol.com [mailto:Muratokcu@aol.com]
Sent:
Monday, November 08, 1999 11:56 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: DSM 13G cartridge in 3/S
turbos
I will throw in a more controversial idea, how about
assymetric turbos? I
mean, a big turbo just for the front?
SAAB has a
V6 with a turbo on only one bank, feeding both banks.
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 13:24:15 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Honey Combs - A
theory...
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:21:49 -0800
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A number of ideas about honeycombs have been offered on the
list--
what they do..., how they work..., are they necessary..., are they
a
necessity for the turbos but not the NTs..., etc... Here's one
more
idea for you to ponder: Are they there ONLY to straighten
airflow
from an *asymmetrical* stock airbox? (I say YES). And
when you
switch to a symmetrical filter box, are they still necessary?
(I
say NO). Here's why (partial repost from a discussion we had on
the
list just over a month ago...)--
When Mark Kibort (racer and
design engineer) and I were doing the
first test of his eRAM Electric
Supercharger on my car, we were
forced to angle it downward-- pointing at the
MAS honeycomb at a
very sharp angle. Since Mark had previous results
with other cars
that were roughly twice as good as what we got on my Stealth
NT, he
did some testing in his own lab... His results showed that when
air
is directed at the honeycomb at a steep angle, close to 50% of
the
speed of that air is lost by the interference created by the cells
of
the honeycomb! Our stock airbox allows air to enter the intake
path
from different distances-- the top of the airbox is closer to
the MAS than
the bottom. Therefore, it may be possible that the
only reason for the
honeycomb is to even out the flow from the stock
airbox so the sensor can get
a correct reading.
But when you replace the stock airbox with a K&N
FIPK, air enters
symmetrically, so it's possible that the honeycomb is no
longer
required. Almost all the air is entering at the same speed,
so
maybe you don't need a honeycomb to make it a consistent stream of
air,
and you don't need all that resistance slowing down
your
airflow.
According to the gurus at Frey Racing (who did my dyno
test of the
eRAM), that intake tube on our NT 3/S cars is a
power-robbing
horror... It's got an ullage tank (the resonator [on NTs
only],
which most of us have removed), the honeycomb, two 90-degree
bends,
and a segmented construction 'hose'-- all of these things result
in
a veritable "obstacle course" for the intake air. I
couldn't find
time to do it this summer, but I'm going to try to redesign
our
intake, switching to smooth tubing, and eliminating one of
the
90-degree elbows... I'll have to move the MAS and I'll
probably
move the battery to the trunk (and switch to a gel unit like
Chris
Winkley did) to give a bit more room for a gentler bend coming
out
of the throttle body... And if there's room, I'll install a
Super
eRAM (but I may have to settle for the standard eRAM, which is
2
inches shorter). I'll keep you posted, with Dyno results,
of
course...
Oh, and BTW, Mark's Dad (another engineering genius!) did
some
testing with a smooth tube intake and found that a
'deflector',
installed at the bend just before the throttle body, helped a
lot to
minimize airflow turbulence there... Anyone looking to
experiment
can email me privately and I'll send you a diagram... And if
anyone
wants to chip in some expertise on dealing with moving the MAS,
I
could use the input-- my background with NASA was in Flight
Test
(Aeronautical), not Systems
(Electrical)...
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:28:35 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drivetrain loss (was:
new..)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:29:54 -0800
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Curious.
Whats the loss with just the rollers decelerating by
themselves?
Since theres no such thing perfect bearings..etc..Id like to
see how much Hp it
takes to maintain a constant velocity for four
1000lb (or so) dyno drums.
Is that figured into the
math?
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
[mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 12:34 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drivetrain loss (was:
new..)
EE yes, but I had a window place during physics, LOL. Matt
Jannusch is very
right in his descriptions as it's simply physics what is
going on here.
In short, drivetrain loss is dynamic BUT it relates on a
lot stuff ! Looking
at the dyno runs one must know that the tests have been
done in 4th gear.
The easist calculation is : the higher the speed the more
the loss. But it
is not linear as the rolling friction relates on the tires,
the weight of
the wheel/tires (the wider the worser !) the oil temp, the
bearings and
more. Please note, the loss is tested with the clutch pressed
and the tranny
put to neutral to get the real loss of tranny and transfer
case, i.e. the
drive train.
The only percentage you can tell is at the
peak horsepower. And this is then
very related to the car tested and
therefore you can only say that the loss
is about 30% when measuring the peak
hp at the same rpm/speed for each other
car. But if you change the exhaust,
you may shift the power band and the
percentage loss at the same rpm as
before is lower or higher.
To summerize the stuff : The drivetrain loss
is a non-linear power curve
that follows the rpm/speed band. It is not
calculateable as there are too
many variables. A % for the loss is only
a very rough estimate that depends
on the rpm. If the same car produces 400hp
at 6000 and the loss is 120hp the
loss is still the same with the same
drivetrain but with an engine making
500hp at the same
rpm.
Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:35:34 1999
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Reply-To: <markelkin@mindspring.com>
From: "Mark
Elkin" <markelkin@mindspring.com>
To: "Team 3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: FW: Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 16:38:43 -0500
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I'm not
an engineer, but I'll try to clarify my thinking...
Drag on a drivetrain
is often expressed as a percentage of output power from
the engine. If
your motor is putting out 320 HP (stock for '94-99 3/S cars)
and on the dyno
you measure 240 HP then theoretically at your HP peak you
are seeing a 25%
drivetrain loss (240/320), assuming that your motor
actually makes 320
HP.
Now if you pump up your motor so it is outputting 800 HP, will your
dyno run
indicate 740 HP or will it indicate 600 HP? I'm going to put
my money on
740 HP.
>>>Matt, I agree with you...My point was
that losses through the powertrain
are not a constant. I seems as
though they will vary according to rpm of
the moving parts of the
powertrain....and as makes sense, not the hp of the
motor.
The
frictional and inertial losses shouldn't increase in proportion to the
amount
of power being input to the system. They should remain the same as
it
takes a certain amount of work to cause the rotation of the parts
and
overcome any other frictional losses.
To answer Mark's first
question:
Does it take 99hp to get the car rolling? No. It
takes 99hp to maintain
the amount of power and speed transmitted to the dyno
rollers at the time
the measurement was taken. These losses will be a
lot lower at slower
speeds.
>>>I agree again...I would assume
that the hp loss through the powertrain
could be graphed as a curve which
would vary with rpm of the moving parts of
the powertrain. I believe
that we are saying the same thing but calling it
two different things....The
loss of hp is not a constant(static), but varies
(dynamic)with rpm of the
powertrain--not with hp of the motor. But, it is
also not loss that can
be correlated directly with hp of the motor.
Not saying that's the case,
but I'm not seeing opposing views yet...
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
-Mark
'96 3KGT VR4
(Still waiting for an engineer to blow mine
and Matt's above discussion out
of the water!)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Drivetrain loss (was:
new..)
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Ok, Now i'm
confused! :) Lets say, my car (93 Vr-4) dynos in at 200HP at
the wheels (may
be a bit low, just a guess) @ 6500 RPM (random number).
Now I make some
upgrades, exhaust, boost controller, etc, and I am making
400 (crank) horse
power @ 6500 rpm. In MY opinion, I would be making 264
wheel hp, NOT 300
wheel HP.
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 8
Nov 1999, R.G. wrote:
> EE yes, but I had a window place during
physics, LOL. Matt Jannusch is very
> right in his descriptions as it's
simply physics what is going on here.
>
> In short, drivetrain loss
is dynamic BUT it relates on a lot stuff ! Looking
> at the dyno runs one
must know that the tests have been done in 4th gear.
> The easist
calculation is : the higher the speed the more the loss. But it
> is not
linear as the rolling friction relates on the tires, the weight of
> the
wheel/tires (the wider the worser !) the oil temp, the bearings and
>
more. Please note, the loss is tested with the clutch pressed and the
tranny
> put to neutral to get the real loss of tranny and transfer case,
i.e. the
> drive train.
>
> The only percentage you can tell
is at the peak horsepower. And this is then
> very related to the car
tested and therefore you can only say that the loss
> is about 30% when
measuring the peak hp at the same rpm/speed for each other
> car. But if
you change the exhaust, you may shift the power band and the
> percentage
loss at the same rpm as before is lower or higher.
>
> To summerize
the stuff : The drivetrain loss is a non-linear power curve
> that follows
the rpm/speed band. It is not calculateable as there are too
> many
variables. A % for the loss is only a very rough estimate that
depends
> on the rpm. If the same car produces 400hp at 6000 and the loss
is 120hp the
> loss is still the same with the same drivetrain but with an
engine making
> 500hp at the same rpm.
>
> Later,
>
Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:44:58 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 13:44:33
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization:
General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Drivetrain loss (was:
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"Mohler,
Jeff" wrote:
>
> Curious.
>
> Whats the loss with
just the rollers decelerating by themselves?
>
> Since theres no
such thing perfect bearings..etc..Id like to see how much Hp it
> takes to
maintain a constant velocity for four 1000lb (or so) dyno drums.
>
> Is that figured into the math?
Yes. The dyno rollers
should regularly be calibrated. The dynos are
electrically loaded so
that the electrical load plus the dyno roller friction &
inertia is as
close-as-possible to the forces the car experiences on the road
(wind
resistance, 4 rolling wheels). When my main customer was CARB, they
were
performing numerous calibrations including dyno roller once a
week.
--
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:48:01 1999
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From:
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To: "'Gross, Erik'"
<erik.gross@intel.com>
Cc: "'Team3S List'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Test for dying
clutch?
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 13:47:14 -0800
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Erik...
You're diagnosis of the slip in 2nd gear at 7 mph
sounds accurate to me.
However, an inch of travel difference since what was
new? The car? That
would be predictable. What I've always done to check
clutch condition when
buying a used vehicle is to engage 2nd gear from a
standstill. A badly worn
clutch will certainly slip under that
condition.
Get ready for a new clutch!!!
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
[mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 1:15 PM
To:
'Team3S List'
Subject: Team3S: Test for dying clutch?
Hey
guys,
Quick question:
How do you test a clutch you suspect may be
on the verge of wearing out?
Things I've noticed:
* Engagement
point has migrated upward significantly (only 1" or so
from top of pedal
travel) since it was new
* Clutch "feel" is pretty soft/forgiving
lately
* It *might* have slipped slightly today...
Slowing down for
traffic in 2nd, going about 7mph.
Too lazy to go for 1st, so I just
accelerated when traffic moved.
Not flooring it, but on the throttle a
bit.
Felt a very slight slip as I accelerated.
Car seemed to drive
normally after that.
So does that sound conclusive to you? If it's
going, I guess I should
probably make an appointment to get it replaced now,
but I don't want to
jump the gun. I could adjust the pedal so the
engagement point is farther
down, but I don't want to simply mask the problem
for a few days if the
clutch is going...
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 63,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New To List/Few
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I understand the
idea that you loose a specific amount of HP, it just
doesnt seem right.. but
so far no one has said any different, so maybe you
guys are right.
:)
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 8 Nov
1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > That doesnt make sense to
me... I've NEVER heard of drivetrain loss being
> > measured as a
streight amount of HP loss. Its ALWAYS been (as far as I
> > remember)
thought of as a percentage.
>
> Sure, it often is expressed as a
percentage. But the complete description is "a
> percentage of
the stock flywheel HP". You can't say it is a percentage
unless
> you say what it is a percentage of. In reality, loss is a
constant regardless
> of the engine flywheel HP.
>
>
Hopefully this example will illustrate the pitfall of using loss as a
>
percentage. Say someone (me:)) has a G-Tech Pro. They measure a
wheel HP of
> 201 on a stock 1st gen. So to calculate engine
flywheel HP, they use the
> formula: flywheel HP = wheel HP / (1 -
loss), or 201 / ( 1 - .33 ) = 300. That
> answer looks good and is
indeed correct because the loss is 33% of 300 HP. Now
> they make
some mods, K&N FIPK bleeder valve, then measure 260 wheel HP.
Using
> the above incorrect assumption and formula, they would erroneously
calculate the
> flywheel HP as 260 / ( 1 - .33 ) = 388. The correct
formula is: wheel HP +
> loss HP = flywheel HP, or 260 + 99 =
359.
>
> I hope that clarifies things a bit,
>
Ken
>
> > --Matt Wise
> > *NOC Admin*
>
> (650) 429 3751
> >
> > On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh
wrote:
> >
> > > Most all questions have been answered,
but here is one that puzzled me for a
> > > while.
> >
>
> > > > 6) I've heard that our cars loose %33 through the
drivetrain... Is that
> > > > accurate? If so, how much does a
smaller pulley help?
> > >
> > > Roger, Jim, &
Mikael measured drivetrain loss on an AWD dyno earlier this year
> >
> to be about 99 HP. Loss is 99 HP if your engine is stock or modified
to 600HP.
> > > Thus you don't want to mention drivetrain loss as a
percentage unless you also
> > > include the flywheel HP.
>
> >
> > > e.g. 99/300 = 33% loss
> >
> 99/600 = 16.5% loss
>
> >
> > > Enjoy your new VR4!
> > >
> >
> --
> > > I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
>
> >
> > > Ken
Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> > > General Atomics
> > > San Diego
>
> >
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> --
> I'm
just driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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I've got an
idea... Has anyone here dyno'd there car after modifying them?
Lets look at
the differences..
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On
Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> I understand the idea that you
loose a specific amount of HP, it just
> doesnt seem right.. but so far no
one has said any different, so maybe you
> guys are right. :)
>
> --Matt Wise
> *NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
>
On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> >
> > >
That doesnt make sense to me... I've NEVER heard of drivetrain loss
being
> > > measured as a streight amount of HP loss. Its ALWAYS
been (as far as I
> > > remember) thought of as a
percentage.
> >
> > Sure, it often is expressed as a
percentage. But the complete description is "a
> >
percentage of the stock flywheel HP". You can't say it is a
percentage unless
> > you say what it is a percentage of. In
reality, loss is a constant regardless
> > of the engine flywheel
HP.
> >
> > Hopefully this example will illustrate the
pitfall of using loss as a
> > percentage. Say someone (me:)) has
a G-Tech Pro. They measure a wheel HP of
> > 201 on a stock 1st
gen. So to calculate engine flywheel HP, they use the
> >
formula: flywheel HP = wheel HP / (1 - loss), or 201 / ( 1 - .33 ) =
300. That
> > answer looks good and is indeed correct because the
loss is 33% of 300 HP. Now
> > they make some mods, K&N FIPK
bleeder valve, then measure 260 wheel HP. Using
> > the above
incorrect assumption and formula, they would erroneously calculate the
>
> flywheel HP as 260 / ( 1 - .33 ) = 388. The correct formula is:
wheel HP +
> > loss HP = flywheel HP, or 260 + 99 = 359.
> >
> > I hope that clarifies things a bit,
> > Ken
>
>
> > > --Matt Wise
> > > *NOC Admin*
>
> > (650) 429 3751
> > >
> > > On Mon, 8 Nov
1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> > >
> > > > Most all
questions have been answered, but here is one that puzzled me for a
> >
> > while.
> > > >
> > > > > 6) I've
heard that our cars loose %33 through the drivetrain... Is that
> >
> > > accurate? If so, how much does a smaller pulley help?
>
> > >
> > > > Roger, Jim, & Mikael measured
drivetrain loss on an AWD dyno earlier this year
> > > > to be
about 99 HP. Loss is 99 HP if your engine is stock or modified to
600HP.
> > > > Thus you don't want to mention drivetrain loss as
a percentage unless you also
> > > > include the flywheel
HP.
> > > >
> > > > e.g. 99/300 = 33%
loss
> > > >
99/600 = 16.5% loss
> > > >
> > > > Enjoy your new
VR4!
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > I'm
just driving this way to piss you off!
> > > >
> > >
> Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> > > > General Atomics
> > > > San
Diego
> > > >
> > >
> > > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
> > --
> >
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
> >
> > Ken
Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> > General Atomics
> > San
Diego
> >
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 13:59:41 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drivetrain loss
(was: new..)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 15:59:24 -0600
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> Whats the
loss with just the rollers decelerating by themselves?
>
> Since
theres no such thing perfect bearings..etc..Id like to
> see how much Hp
it takes to maintain a constant velocity for
> four 1000lb (or so) dyno
drums.
>
> Is that figured into the math?
The dyno is
calibrated periodically to measure its losses and those losses are removed
from the input power figure so you are only measuring the power being applied to
the rollers.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 14:02:50 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Drivetrain loss (was: new..)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 16:02:41 -0600
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> Ok, Now i'm
confused! :) Lets say, my car (93 Vr-4) dynos in
> at 200HP at the wheels
(may be a bit low, just a guess) @
> 6500 RPM (random number). Now I
make some upgrades,
> exhaust, boost controller, etc, and I am making 400
(crank)
> horse power @ 6500 rpm. In MY opinion, I would be making
264
> wheel hp, NOT 300 wheel HP.
No, you should see 300 HP on the
dyno. If you increase the power of your motor, why would
frictional/inertial losses increase? Did the density of your driveshaft
increase? Did the laws of physics change to raise the inertial constant of
rotational mass?
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 14:14:21 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Matt
Jannusch'" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drivetrain loss (was:
new..)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:16:10 -0800
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I view intertial
mass of a drivetrain as a torque issue, not HP. I cant wait to
slap a
solid shaft on the car, maybe save ohh..25-30lbs easy. Should
make
significant torque increases over the spoolup ROM range under
WOT.
As power increases, the load on gear and bearing faces increases,
which raises
loss percentages.
-----Original Message-----
From:
Matt Jannusch [mailto:MAJ@BigCharts.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 2:03
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drivetrain loss
(was: new..)
> Ok, Now i'm confused! :) Lets say, my car (93 Vr-4)
dynos in
> at 200HP at the wheels (may be a bit low, just a guess)
@
> 6500 RPM (random number). Now I make some upgrades,
>
exhaust, boost controller, etc, and I am making 400 (crank)
> horse power
@ 6500 rpm. In MY opinion, I would be making 264
> wheel hp, NOT 300 wheel
HP.
No, you should see 300 HP on the dyno. If you increase the
power of your motor,
why would frictional/inertial losses increase? Did
the density of your
driveshaft increase? Did the laws of physics change
to raise the inertial
constant of rotational mass?
-Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 14:27:11 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'3s'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear Spoiler/Active
Aero
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:29:02 -0800
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Has anybody
proven any functional downforce provided in normal/raised mode on
the rear
wing?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 14:29:51 1999
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From: "Greg Gonzales"
<greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Best Boost Controller for the buck
Date: Mon, 08 Nov 1999 14:29:23
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I would like to
know which is the best boost controller for the buck and
why.
I want
something that is easy to install but gives me the best power.
Any
suggestions?
TIA
Greg 92 RT
TT
______________________________________________________
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Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
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References:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Drivetrain loss (was: new..)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 23:11:47
+0100
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bulk
> Whats the loss with just the rollers decelerating by
themselves?
The drums are having an exact weight and are balanced. The
dyno knows the
loss of them and reagrds this too.
> Since theres no
such thing perfect bearings..etc..Id like to see how much
Hp it
> takes
to maintain a constant velocity for four 1000lb (or so) dyno
drums.
The drums are connected to e-motors that makes the loss of the
drums
negligible. This is the big advantage of expensive dynos compared to
the
cheaper dynojets.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 14:36:12 1999
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References:
<Pine.SOL.3.95.991108134209.13453B-100000@nodserv>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Drivetrain loss (was: new..)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 23:30:43
+0100
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> Ok, Now i'm confused! :) Lets say, my car (93 Vr-4) dynos in at
200HP at
> the wheels (may be a bit low, just a guess) @ 6500 RPM (random
number).
> Now I make some upgrades, exhaust, boost controller, etc, and I
am making
> 400 (crank) horse power @ 6500 rpm. In MY opinion, I would be
making 264
> wheel hp, NOT 300 wheel HP.
You are thinking the wrong
way (it's not that complicated) When you are
making 200hp at the wheels at
@6500 then the measured loss may be 100hp.
This results in 300hp at the crank
@ 6500. Don't think in %, just forget it.
Now you mod the car up to 250hp
at the wheels @6500 then the loss is still
100hp and the result is 350hp @
6500.
My dyno runs where with different wheels/tires and even on one run
after the
other the tires where hotter and the result was a different loss.
But the
final result was the same because the measured wheel hp was lower as
the
loss was higher. Sounds cool but for me the outcome was
important.
As most of us don't have the chance to go to a dyno, we have
to get an
estimate for the loss. And in our case, this is about 33% in 4th at
around
6000rpm. This equals to 100hp and on a car dynoed 450hp at the crank
the
loss was still around 100hp and not 30% ! BUT if the hp was measured at
7000
and not 6000, the result is different again as the higher the rpm the
higher
the loss.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 14:36:14 1999
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From:
"R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "'Team3S'"
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References:
<000401bf29d4$9b4725c0$23010a0a@bern.genesiscom.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Any specific instructions on 3S to do a compression test
Date: Mon, 8
Nov 1999 23:34:49 +0100
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> It's probably time for a compression test..
>
> And
specific instructions for the Dodge ?
No, just a normal test and a leak
down test if necessary. Just make sure the
ignition is not firing and the
injectors are not spraying. We applied
pressure to the plugholes and listened
to the sound. We heard some whistle
comming from the valves and then runned
some injector cleaner. No whistle
anymore as the carbon deposits went off
then. The simpler method was
cranking the engine about 6 times to measure the
compression. My problems
where the same at any temperature.
Good
luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Greg
Gonzales'" <greggonzo1@hotmail.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best Boost Controller for
the buck
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:38:09 -0800
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Easy, DYI
bleeder valve.
$2, and only miniscule 1/4mi time differences from a $500
electronic unit.
-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Gonzales
[mailto:greggonzo1@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 2:29
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Best Boost
Controller for the buck
I would like to know which is the best boost
controller for the buck and
why.
I want something that is easy to
install but gives me the best power.
Any suggestions?
TIA
Greg 92
RT TT
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From:
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To: "Mohler, Jeff"
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"'3s'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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<242EA98B2B7DD311985A0090277AED510F0C81@CLEARCREEK.corp.netapp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rear Spoiler/Active Aero
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 23:38:09
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Yes, drive 174mph and switch it on/off ... you will keep it on as
the car
started to become scary in a light turn !
> Has anybody
proven any functional downforce provided in normal/raised mode
on
> the
rear wing?
Roger
93'3000GT TT ... Autobahn proven
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Message-ID:
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>, "Mohler, Jeff"
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>,
"'3s'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Rear Spoiler/Active Aero
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 14:41:50 -0800
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*chuckle*
You mean off/on yes?
-----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Monday, November
08, 1999 2:38 PM
To: Mohler, Jeff; '3s'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
Spoiler/Active Aero
Yes, drive 174mph and switch it on/off ... you
will keep it on as the car
started to become scary in a light turn
!
> Has anybody proven any functional downforce provided in
normal/raised mode
on
> the rear wing?
Roger
93'3000GT TT ...
Autobahn proven
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 14:44:18 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
Spoiler/Active Aero
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 16:01:51 -0600
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>Has anybody proven any functional downforce provided in
normal/raised mode
on
>the rear wing?
I'm wondering if the
active aero system is even worth anything at all (as in
does it provide any
benefits, or is it just a gimmickie thing)? Someone on
an earlier post
regarding weight said that the system weighs about 50 lbs,
and if it really
doesn't do much, wouldn't it be better to just dump the
thing in favor of
some type of permanent air-scoop to make the car lighter
(because we all know
how 'light' our cars already are ;)p?
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 14:46:15 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best Boost Controller for the buck
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 16:46:09
-0600
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> I would
like to know which is the best boost controller for
> the buck and
why.
> I want something that is easy to install but gives me the
>
best power.
Hallman boost controller is by far the best bang for the
buck. If you don't need fancy in-cockpit boost control, then you set it
and forget it. It is mechanical in nature, and set up to provide maximum
spoolup by keeping the wastegates closed as long as possible before opening them
to control boost. Its a very effective boost controller for $90. The
only drawback is that it isn't adjustable from inside the
car.
http://www.buschurracing.com/
Look under the
"prices" section. It actually isn't a bleeder-type, but rather
an adjustable restriction type.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 15:02:09 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Drivetrain loss, Dyno
info... (Notes from a Guru)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 15:00:49
-0800
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I've been getting as confused as the rest of you about this
entire
subject, so I called Terry, the "Dyno Guru" over at Frey
Racing.
He's been doing Winston Cup cars for about 20 years, so I figured
he
might have some insight... His job is to put a car on the dynos
and
determine what the drivetrain losses are, and then work at
reducing...
minimizing those losses.
The Dyno Jet he uses is called an inertial dyno
or "chassis dyno",
(and yes, it's calibrated weekly for
accuracy). There are also
other types (electrical dyno, water
dyno...). All dynos do the same
thing- measure RPM, speed, distance,
use known factors for the dyno
(load, friction, inertia...), and calculate a
figure from all of
those parameters that is a pretty accurate estimate of HP
to the
road. According to Terry, there is no exact formula that is
either
a fixed number or a fixed percentage of drivetrain loss, because
it
is 'machine specific', i.e., every car is different. The
drivetrain
losses depend on myriad factors, including type of
clutch,
driveshaft, tires, engine wear, and even the type of oil that
you
use. In other words, the more modded you are, the better
chance
there is that your losses (HP or %) are less than stock for the
same
vehicle. And the ONLY way to determine the EXACT drivetrain
loss
for your car is to do a dyno run on a "chassis dyno" and then
take
the engine out and do a run on an "engine dyno". That
will tell you
the horsepower lost to the drivetrain.
For the sake of
simplicity (and cost, obviously), there ARE
arbitrary figures used to
'guesstimate' percentage losses for
different types of cars:
20% for
standard passenger cars
15% for performance cars
12% for race-prepared
cars
When he dynoed my car (before mods), he used a figure of 15%
(not
knowing the rated HP for the Stealth), and sure enough, the
dyno
figure was EXACTLY 15% less than the advertised HP from
Dodge.
The HP loss can be shown in HP or as a percentage, says Terry,
but
it really doesn't matter how it's expressed-- it's not important.
The
only thing that IS important is minimizing those losses to get
the most out
of your car.
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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To: Bob Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>
cc: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drivetrain loss,
Dyno info... (Notes from a Guru)
In-Reply-To:
<04da01bf2a3d$1d11f130$95f286cd@forrest.sirius.com>
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Thank you..
Everything makes sense.. I agree with everything you said,
and we
finally have some info from a professional :)
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 8 Nov 1999, Bob Forrest
wrote:
> I've been getting as confused as the rest of you about this
entire
> subject, so I called Terry, the "Dyno Guru" over at
Frey Racing.
> He's been doing Winston Cup cars for about 20 years, so I
figured he
> might have some insight... His job is to put a car on
the dynos and
> determine what the drivetrain losses are, and then work
at
> reducing... minimizing those losses.
>
> The Dyno Jet he
uses is called an inertial dyno or "chassis dyno",
> (and yes,
it's calibrated weekly for accuracy). There are also
> other types
(electrical dyno, water dyno...). All dynos do the same
> thing-
measure RPM, speed, distance, use known factors for the dyno
> (load,
friction, inertia...), and calculate a figure from all of
> those
parameters that is a pretty accurate estimate of HP to the
> road.
According to Terry, there is no exact formula that is either
> a fixed
number or a fixed percentage of drivetrain loss, because it
> is 'machine
specific', i.e., every car is different. The drivetrain
> losses
depend on myriad factors, including type of clutch,
> driveshaft, tires,
engine wear, and even the type of oil that you
> use. In other
words, the more modded you are, the better chance
> there is that your
losses (HP or %) are less than stock for the same
> vehicle. And the
ONLY way to determine the EXACT drivetrain loss
> for your car is to do a
dyno run on a "chassis dyno" and then take
> the engine out and
do a run on an "engine dyno". That will tell you
> the
horsepower lost to the drivetrain.
>
> For the sake of simplicity
(and cost, obviously), there ARE
> arbitrary figures used to 'guesstimate'
percentage losses for
> different types of cars:
>
> 20% for
standard passenger cars
> 15% for performance cars
> 12% for
race-prepared cars
>
> When he dynoed my car (before mods), he used
a figure of 15% (not
> knowing the rated HP for the Stealth), and sure
enough, the dyno
> figure was EXACTLY 15% less than the advertised HP from
Dodge.
>
> The HP loss can be shown in HP or as a percentage, says
Terry, but
> it really doesn't matter how it's expressed-- it's not
important.
> The only thing that IS important is minimizing those losses
to get
> the most out of your car.
>
> Best,
>
>
Forrest
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 15:48:16 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov
1999 17:48:34 -0600
From: Trevor James
<Trevor@kscable.com>
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To: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Best Boost Controller for the buck
References:
<6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F7717@EXCHANGE1>
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Precedence: bulk
There's another
couple drawbacks to a manual bleeder. The boost will never build as fast as
possible. The wastegates will only (relatively) creep open compared to an
electronic unit which will wait until the very last second to slam open the
wastegates. You will also not have solid boost control from one day to the next.
One afternoon you can bust your butt setting it to exactly 15 psi. The next
morning on the drive to
work it will show higher because of the cooler
temperatures. It will also vary with barometric pressure.
If you want the
best quarter mile times get an electronic unit. If you want the easiest of the
electronic units get a HKS EVC IV for about $475.
Trevor
96 Firestorm
Red R/T TT
12.86@107.2
12.68@111.4-0 to 60 4.14 Gtech
HKS EVC IV@1.00
Bar, Accel Wires, Plugs@.034, Borla, K&N FIPK
92 GMC
Typhoon
12.10@97.4-0 to 60 5.34 Gtech
Matt Jannusch
wrote:
> > I would like to know which is the best boost controller
for
> > the buck and why.
> > I want something that is easy to
install but gives me the
> > best power.
>
> Hallman boost
controller is by far the best bang for the buck. If you don't need fancy
in-cockpit boost control, then you set it and forget it. It is mechanical
in nature, and set up to provide maximum spoolup by keeping the wastegates
closed as long as possible before opening them to control boost. Its a
very effective boost controller for $90. The only drawback is that it
isn't adjustable from inside the car.
>
>
http://www.buschurracing.com/
>
> Look under the "prices"
section. It actually isn't a bleeder-type, but rather an adjustable
restriction type.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 15:56:44 1999
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Reply-To: "Dennis
Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
From: "Dennis Moore"
<stealth@quixnet.net>
To: "3000GT Team3:"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<38273497.79963B34@citicorp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Redline MTL or
MT-90???
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 19:01:16 -0500
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How about both?
The tech at Redline recommended a blend of 1
qt. MT-90 and 2 qts. MTL in the
transaxle. I just got my car back from
the shop where they put that mix in
for me. (Yes, I got the extra
back...) I'll let folks know how it works
out, but so far so
good.
Dennis Moore
stealth@quixnet.net
93 Stealth ES
-----
Original Message -----
From: Jeff Schwartz
<jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
To: 3000GT Team3:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 3:37
PM
Subject: Team3S: Redline MTL or MT-90???
> What does
everyone recommend for use in the Transmission,
> Transfer Case, and Rear
Axel. I get different stories from
> different speed shops. I
have a 95 VR4.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'Trevor James'"
<Trevor@kscable.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Best Boost Controller for the buck
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 18:13:55
-0600
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> There's
another couple drawbacks to a manual bleeder. The
> boost will never
build as fast as possible. The wastegates
> will only (relatively) creep
open compared to an electronic
> unit which will wait until the very last
second to slam open
> the wastegates. You will also not have solid boost
control
> from one day to the next. One afternoon you can bust your
> butt setting it to exactly 15 psi. The next morning on the drive
to
> work it will show higher because of the cooler temperatures.
>
It will also vary with barometric pressure.
Not true with the
Hallman. The behavior is exactly the same as with the expen$ive HK$
unit. Gates stay closed until boost target is reached, and then are opened
quickly. Like I said, it isn't a bleeder, it is a pressure restriction
valve. Pressure to the wastegates is held back until boost reaches the
preset level and only then is sent to the wastegate actuators.
> If
you want the best quarter mile times get an electronic
> unit. If you
want the easiest of the electronic units get a
> HKS EVC IV for about
$475.
I hate my EVC IV. It sucks, sucks, sucks. Boost control
is pretty unstable, and it overshoots the boost target badly. Luckily I
have water injection, so I can live with it.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 16:16:01 1999
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From:
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To:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Missing &
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Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 18:15:56 -0600
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I have narrowed
it down to one of 2-3 things:
1. I screwed up an injector wire(s)
while removing or assembling the intake
plenum.
2. Plug wire is
somehow messed up.
3. Spark plug is broken.
Now, Jeff
suggested that I pull the codes from the ECU to determine exactly
what the
problem is. I am all for this because I have taken everything
apart 3
times now! However he wasn't sure exactly which pin to ground to
make
the check engine light flash the code. Could someone please help
me
with this? I have a 95 RT TT. I checked and it had the big 16
pin OBD
connector.
Thanks in advance for your
help!
Trent
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Schwartz [mailto:jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999
2:34 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Missing
& Check engine????
First thing I would do is to get the code from
the check engine light.
There is a pin, (I have to look up which pin)
on the OBD connector
which when you short it to ground, the check engine
light will flash
with the code for the problem. The codes are in the
repair manual, or
I might have them, I have to look.
I had the
exact same problem and it turned out to be a wire going to
one of the rear
fuel injectors had poped out just enough not to make
a connection. I
had to use epoxy to clue the wire back in or buy a
new fuel injector
connector. Just a guess, but check all the wiring
to the injectors coz
they are easy to knock out while changing the
plugs.
--
Jeff
Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and
Magnecors
Owens, Trent L. wrote:
>
> Hey guys... I
have one for ya!
>
> Yesterday I was installing my new Apexi R
BC. Using Brian's instructions
I
> pulled the plugs and regapped
the NGK's to .034. I put everything back
> together and installed
the BC.
>
> Installing the BC:
>
> I capped the bottom
line of the stock solenoid. Then I routed the line
from
> the
Y-pipe to "NC" on the BC solenoid. (NC is the IN on the
solenoid)
Then
> I routed the "COM" or OUT on the BC solenoid
to a port on the 4-way.
>
> Once I fished everything and double
checked it all..... I started the
car.
> WHAT??? Its
missing! And the check engine light it on.... I go back and
>
recheck everything. Everything seems to be connected. Now...
Insert
> favorite four letter words!!!!
>
> I then go back
and remover the intake and recheck all the plugs and
wires...
>
Reassymble.... Same thing!! I return to the stock BC to the
stock
> setup...and its still missing with the check engine light
ON! More four
> letter words!
>
> Anybody have any
advice or have ran into this problem before? I worked
with
> the
battery disconnected and reset the ECU each time I changed something.
>
> Thanks for your help!!!
>
> Trent Owens
> 95 RT
TT
>
> Totally stock except for .34 NGK's. And if I can get
this taken care of..
> Apexi-R BC.
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 16:21:19 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Missing &
Check engine????
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 18:21:15 -0600
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> Now, Jeff
suggested that I pull the codes from the ECU to
> determine exactly what
the problem is. I am all for this
> because I have taken everything
apart 3 times now!
> However he wasn't sure exactly which pin to ground
to
> make the check engine light flash the code. Could someone
> please help me with this? I have a 95 RT TT. I
checked
> and it had the big 16 pin OBD connector.
I think you can
actually have it flash the codes on the
check engine light. If it is
possible on these cars, you
do the following with the ignition
key:
on
off
on
off
on
...all within 5 seconds.
You don't have to start the car, just toggle the key. It should flash out
the codes for you after the sequence is entered. Works on 2G
Eclipse/Talons and other Mitsu ECU cars like the Dodge Avenger. Haven't
tried it on my 3000, but it has worked on other modern Mitsu-ECU cars.
Give it a try...
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 16:22:36 1999
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Message-ID: <38276628.23229166@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Tue, 09 Nov 1999 01:09:12 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Reply-To: robby@swissonline.ch
Organization:
Behind the frontier
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To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rear
Spoiler/Active Aero
References:
<006701bf2a34$dd294a80$10c9c9c9@benson>
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> >Has
anybody proven any functional downforce provided in normal/raised mode
>
on
> >the rear wing?
>
> I'm wondering if the active aero
system is even worth anything at all
Again, drive the car at very high
speed and switch the AA on and off. You'll
learn what downforce means
:)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 16:47:36 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To:
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Missing & Check engine????
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 19:34:10
-0800
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bulk
I would think it has nothing to do with your boost controller
install, since
the problem
manifested itself even with the stock solenoid
reconnected. I would say
first, check
and make sure all your plug
wires are down all the way on the plugs and coil
packs,
and also make sure
the correct wires are on the correct spot!! Then if all
is
well,
listen for vacuum leaks on the manifold because the gasket may not
have
seated properly
and you may have a leak. Also make sure all
your injector harnesses are
back together
all the way (if you disconnected
them). Did you also cap the stock line
coming from the H-connect
to
the bottom of solenoid?
Sam
-----Original Message-----
From:
Owens, Trent L. <Trent.Owens@destia.com>
To:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com' <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 08, 1999 11:00 AM
Subject: Team3S: Missing & Check
engine????
>Hey guys... I have one for
ya!
>
>Yesterday I was installing my new Apexi R BC. Using
Brian's instructions I
>pulled the plugs and regapped the NGK's to
.034. I put everything back
>together and installed the
BC.
>
>Installing the BC:
>
>I capped the bottom line of
the stock solenoid. Then I routed the line
from
>the Y-pipe to
"NC" on the BC solenoid. (NC is the IN on the
solenoid)
Then
>I routed the "COM" or OUT on the BC solenoid
to a port on the 4-way.
>
>Once I fished everything and double
checked it all..... I started the car.
>WHAT??? Its
missing! And the check engine light it on.... I go back
and
>recheck everything. Everything seems to be connected.
Now... Insert
>favorite four letter words!!!!
>
>I then
go back and remover the intake and recheck all the plugs
and
wires...
>Reassymble.... Same thing!! I return to the
stock BC to the stock
>setup...and its still missing with the check engine
light ON! More four
>letter words!
>
>Anybody have any
advice or have ran into this problem before? I worked
with
>the
battery disconnected and reset the ECU each time I changed
something.
>
>Thanks for your help!!!
>
>Trent
Owens
>95 RT TT
>
>Totally stock except for .34 NGK's.
And if I can get this taken care of..
>Apexi-R
BC.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 17:13:39 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost
Controllers
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:11:50 -0800
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bulk
You generally get what you pay for. However, if you go with the
cheap seat,
it will eventually cost you money rather than save you money. Go
with
something like say, the new SAVC-R, and you will have a quality
control
unit and a enclave of people here who have installed to help you do
the
same. It can be had for a lot less than retail if you get in on a
group
purchase. My advice, shop around and get the best. Listen to snake
oil
salesmen and you are bound to be unhappy in the end. I for one do not
relish
a rebuild in these cars because overboost or detonation blew apart
the
rings/pistons. In the end, take all the advise you can get and make up
your
own mind.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 17:29:09 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Friction
Date:
Mon, 8 Nov 1999 17:27:15 -0800
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bulk
Hey boys, enough already. You're plugging up my email with posts
on
redundancy. Common sense dictates that a loss of horsepower to friction
does
not increase significantly as you increase the horsepower. It's
something
like dropping a feather and a rock at the same time. Although you
might like
to think differently, they both reach the floor at about the same
time. A
different force but an applicable example. So can we move on to
something of
greater significance in the 3S world. Please. This issue has
been addressed
enough.
BTW, please delete those aspects of the post
you are responding to which do
not need to be reposted with your
response.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 18:52:33 1999
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Message-ID: <0.7bc83326.2558e636@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 8 Nov
1999 21:51:34 EST
Subject: Team3S: Aero downforce
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How about
stealth? does the aero aids perform any useful function, like
downforce? or
are they all look and no go? maybe the designers figured nobody
would need
them with 55mph speed limit (they were designing these cars in
late
'80's)
I was hoping to roam the Autobahns with my stealth next year. Am I
doomed?
anyone with experience?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Aero
downforce
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 22:04:12 -0600
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bulk
OK, so here's an idea (I dunno if it's any good mind you, which is
why I'm
asking about it here :). Wouldn't it just be better to get a
new spoiler
(or modify the original) and permanently position it so that it's
in the
same position as the active aero is when you're traveling fast enough
that
it makes a difference, get an air-damm, and then dump the actual system
to
save the weight? Or would this cause problems when going at lower
speeds or
accelerating?
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 20:54:24 1999
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From: "CEskelsen"
<cesk@redrock.net>
To: "Matt Jannusch"
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>, "'Trevor James'"
<Trevor@kscable.com>
Cc:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F771A@EXCHANGE1>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Best Boost Controller for the buck
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 21:49:14
-0700
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bulk
I agree with Matt. Yes, I had to get out of the car twice to
adjust the
valve to get it where I wanted it (1.1 bar). On
installation, Matt
suggested I bypass the stock solenoid completely. It
has been rock solid
for two months now. I live in the desert where the
mornings are 30 degrees
cooler than the afternoons and there in -very- little
difference, according
to my GReddy boost gauge and spool up is
wonderful. My buddy has a AVC-R in
his Supra and is disgusted at the
thought of how much beer his extra $400
could have bought
:)
Cheers,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
#416
----- Original
Message -----
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 'Trevor
James' <Trevor@kscable.com>
Cc:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 5:13
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best Boost Controller for the buck
>
> There's another couple drawbacks to a manual bleeder. The
> >
boost will never build as fast as possible. The wastegates
> > will
only (relatively) creep open compared to an electronic
> > unit which
will wait until the very last second to slam open
> > the wastegates.
You will also not have solid boost control
> > from one day to the
next. One afternoon you can bust your
> > butt setting it to exactly 15
psi. The next morning on the drive to
> > work it will show higher
because of the cooler temperatures.
> > It will also vary with
barometric pressure.
>
> Not true with the Hallman. The
behavior is exactly the same as with the
expen$ive HK$ unit. Gates stay
closed until boost target is reached, and
then are opened quickly. Like
I said, it isn't a bleeder, it is a pressure
restriction valve.
Pressure to the wastegates is held back until boost
reaches the preset level
and only then is sent to the wastegate actuators.
>
> > If you
want the best quarter mile times get an electronic
> > unit. If you
want the easiest of the electronic units get a
> > HKS EVC IV for about
$475.
>
> I hate my EVC IV. It sucks, sucks, sucks.
Boost control is pretty
unstable, and it overshoots the boost target
badly. Luckily I have water
injection, so I can live with
it.
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 21:03:53 1999
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From: "Darcy
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To: <Muratokcu@aol.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero
downforce
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 20:59:16 -0800
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Jim Matthews, our European Admin in Germany, is off to Bavaria at
the moment
or he'd likely respond personally on his experiences on the
Autobahns there
in his Stealth TT. He's had no probs taking it to the
max! However, the
Stealth wing and front air dam are not quite as
effective at light speed for
stabilization purposes, as the Mitsu's rear
adjustable wing and front
adjustable dam. The latter create more drag, so
although "perhaps" you
might go faster in the Stealth you
could also experience more instability.
The latter may cause you to reduce
speed to keep within
manageable
parameters.
Best
Darc
snip
>I
was hoping to roam the Autobahns with my stealth next year. Am I
doomed?
>anyone with experience?
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 8 21:04:44 1999
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Date: Mon, 08 Nov
1999 23:01:04 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Rear spoiler/Active
Aero effect
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The article on the
3000GT HSX in Motor Trend in 1/90 indicates that car
had downforce of 110 lbs
at 'a little over 100mph' with the active rear
wing. The front spoiler
reduced drag enough to offset the penalty of
the raised rear wing. The
3000GT HSX wing was slightly different, but
the
active surface was about
the same size.
Jack
T.
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Date: Wed, 30 Jul
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Christopher Dotur wrote:
> Of course the active air dam would
not help handling but it
> could improve aerodynamics by not allowing much
wind under the car.
> so, we've got a good plus for the air dam part of
AA. But what I can't
> figure out is the spoiler!
> I
would love to hear educated guesses from anybody
> I'd really like to
figure out how the engineering behind this thing works.
> even if it's
nothing except
> "turn around and watch the rear spoiler while I
active the Active
Aero".
----------------------------------------------
When the
3000GT VR4 first came out, there were several technical
articles
written. The Actve Aero does work. Of course, it is not
'maxxed
out' because the front airdam if much lower would be destroyed
on a regular
basis by curbstops etc.
The front airdam reduces airflow under the car at
higher speeds,
decreasing drag.
The rear spoiler in up position
creates a higher pressure area on the
rear decklid/window, producing
downforce. At 100mph, it creates 100
pounds of downforce, as I
recall. As speeds increase, downforce
increases. There are a few
articles on top speeds, and one mentioned
that the 3000 VR4 felt the most
stable at max speeds, while RX7 and
Supra were not as stable.
The tech
article said that the front and rear active aero devices
balance out with
regard to total drag--the front airdam reduces drag by
about how much the
rear spoiler increases it, so total coefficient of
drag stays about the same
BUT with more downforce. Again, anyone
expecting surface-skimming front
airdam and thousands of pounds of
downforce is kidding themselves; but the
devices do function as they
are.
Jack
Tertadian
--------------21C94F3969F63CE153383C37--
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 21:45:00 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov
1999 00:44:31 EST
Subject: Team3S: active aero wing for sale
To:
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hi!
while on
this subject..i have a factory green 95 VR4 wing for sale..
it's in excellent
condition..no motor..
E-mail me privately .
Thanks
Clint
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 8 23:30:35 1999
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From: "Bob
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To: <Muratokcu@aol.com>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aero downforce
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 1999 23:28:37 -0800
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-----Original Message-----From:
Muratokcu@aol.com
<Muratokcu@aol.com>
>How about Stealth? does
the aero aids perform any useful function,
like
>downforce? or are they
all look and no go? maybe the designers
figured nobody
>would need them
with 55mph speed limit (they were designing these
cars in
>late
'80's)
>I was hoping to roam the Autobahns with my stealth next year. Am
I
doomed? >anyone with experience?
The Stealth
"Taco-style" wing adds ~100 lbs of downforce and is as
effective as
any other wing out there until you're well past 100...
I don't think they'd
put in a speedo that goes halfway to 200mph if
the car were designed for
55. :-) But I must say that without
active effects, my Stealth
gets pretty squirrely at around 135 (I
won't go faster) while the Mitsus can
stay put at 170+. You'll see
quite a few other "Taco" style
wings on certain models of another
kind of car that frequents the
Autobahn. I think it's called a
Porsche!? :-) But if you're
planning to go over 140 in your
Stealth (which is very likely), you may want
to consider a ground
effects package...
By the time Team3S
"Autobahn Denizens" Roger, Jim, and Mikael get
through with your
car, you'll probably be beating up on the
competition pretty
regularly!
FYI: The Stealth was being RE-designed by the late
80's, from the
Chrysler concept car designed in the early 80's, built and
shown
around '85/'86, originally called the Intrepid" (no
relation). By
the late 80's, they had Mitsu on board to build the car
for them so
it wouldn't break... With all of Mitsu's racing experience
through
the years, I'm sure they wouldn't have built the Stealth with
an
ineffective spoiler. After all, their name was proudly in
the
Stealth ads too, "Designed by Chrysler, Built by
Mitsubishi".
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 01:31:51 1999
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell"
<benson@2015.com>,
"3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: the honeycomb shtuff :)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 01:35:39
-0800
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Hi Benson,
>When the car sat off for a long
>time
(as in over-night), when I would get in to drive the car, no matter
>what
gear I started out in (meaning either 1st, or reverse), unless I
>applied
a ton of gas (as in getting to about 5000 rpms), the car
would
start
>to choke and almost stall right as the gear was engaging
as I let up on the
>clutch. But almost immediately after I drove for
about 5 seconds, it
>wouldn't do that again (it was as if the ECU had to
quickly re-learn the
>air-flow or something).
I guess it is one of
those "unexplainable" things which happen. :) I have to
agree that
it might be the ECU re learning. I have had that happen to me
once but it was
fine after that first inccident. That's why I called
it
unexplainable.
>It will do that same problem until the engine
has
>warmed up, and then it disappears (which isn't a problem really,
because I
>always warm my car in the cold weather).
>It has never
done that since,
I warm my engine up too. The problem I face is that
after I warm the car up
and drive of....the first light I meet down the hill
almost always causes my
car to stall. I thought at first it was the TPS or a
faulty throttle
body...but nah!!! I spoke with my mechanic today and he told
me that those
honey combs are really important and that was probably why my
car could not
maintain idle. U know..it is best (regardless of whether the
3000 is turbo
or non turbo) to keep those honey combs in place. At least
that's what I
feel. When the weather gets colder, the car acts up even more,
especially
when the car is "luke warm."
>except for now
that
>it's getting colder. >
>But that's the only problem
I've experienced after the K&N, but never a
>problem with the
idle. Any ideas what this is?
I don't know....my worry is that this
could be a pre-cursor to an idle link
event...ie, all this could culminate in
a fluctuating idle in the long-run.
When I punched my honey combs out, I
experienced nothing at first with my
car and as months progressed I began to
feel that something was not
right...by that time I had forgotten all about
those honeycombs. Anyway, it
is only just recently which this topic was
brought up ...which made me
understand better the purpose of those honey
combs. I wll experiment with a
new MAF unit and see what happens. If my idle
problem goes away then HURRAY!
Question for u and all: My mechanic said
that the missing honey combs could
be also linked to the fact that I am
constantly running too rich...and
fouling my plugs; makes any sense? Plugs
are currently NGKS gapped at 0.035.
:)
Later Benson and take
care.
Julian Ng
94 Pearl White Veilside
VR4
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Benson
"elmagoo" Russell <benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 1:08
PM
Subject: Team3S: the honeycomb shtuff :)
>> Hope this
helps ...and Benson please check take note on when u
removed
>those
>> honey combs as if your idle begins to fluctuate
during cold temperatures
>or
>> at any period of time..then u
know u have been pulled into "The Storm of
>the
>>
Century" (Sorry got a bit dramatic there)
>
>
>Well I
have a '95 non-turbo 3000 so that might be making a difference.
The
>car has never had a problem idling after putting the K&N back on,
but there
>was one pecular problem that did happen. It took about 2
weeks or so for
the car to stop
>doing that all together, so I guess
the ECU was just learning and adjusting
>over that time period.
>
>
>Latuh fuh
U,
>Benson
>benson@2015.com
>
>"-Do you ever have
second thoughts?
>-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 01:34:12 1999
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>,
"3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Tue, 9 Nov
1999 01:39:12 -0800
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Pardon my ignorance Roger,
But how do u do that? I mean the
original honey combs..i remember seem to be
pretty thick. If I were to go to
a hardware shop and fine a mesh material,
would it actually serve the same
purpose as those honey combs?
How would we attach the mesh...my fear is
that it might get sucked into the
wrong place...do i make
sense?
Thanks
Julian Ng
94 Pearl White
GTO
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 08, 1999 12:16
PM
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
>Guys, wait before buying a new MAF as maybe a simple
mesh of stainless
steel
>will help. This is what the MAFs have in the
Camaro/Firebird/Corvettes. If
>you removed the front plastic part, you may
be able to secure such a mesh
>behind it and it should straigthen the flow
just enough. The sensor is in
>the middle part and it is maybe enough just
to insert a screen there. You
>can try different mesh sizes and you'll
notice pretty fast how good the
idle
>is. Just make sure to drive the
car a little to let it learn until it
idles
>correctly.
>
>Good luck,
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>> Hope this helps ...and Benson please check take note on
when u removed
>those
>> honey combs as if your idle begins to
fluctuate during cold temperatures
>or
>> at any period of
time..then u know u have been pulled into "The Storm
of
>the
>> Century" (Sorry got a bit dramatic
there)
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 07:32:11 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell'" <benson@2015.com>
Cc: 3000GT
Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aero
downforce
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:30:57 -0800
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Benson...
I'm sure the design was intended to function at
higher speeds, because
that's when it's needed. You don't want the drag at
the dragstrip. It also
provides visibility in the rear, clearance in the
front, not to mention the
"tech toy" value that appeals to
many.
Fixed units could work in the rear, if you don't mind having a
spoiler
blocking your view at all times. Won't work for the front, where
there's
only a couple inches of clearance when the air dam is down. It would
be
nearly impossible to clear any speed bump, driveway, etc.
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Benson
"elmagoo" Russell [mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent: Monday, November
08, 1999 8:04 PM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S: Aero
downforce
OK, so here's an idea (I dunno if it's any good mind you, which
is why I'm
asking about it here :). Wouldn't it just be better to get a
new spoiler
(or modify the original) and permanently position it so that it's
in the
same position as the active aero is when you're traveling fast enough
that
it makes a difference, get an air-damm, and then dump the actual system
to
save the weight? Or would this cause problems when going at lower
speeds or
accelerating?
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Tue Nov 9 07:34:44 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Ignition and
knock
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:36:33 +0100
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Hi,
Today I talked to a engine builder here in Stockholm, he
is specialized in
turbo rally cars.
I asked if he had any ideas about
why our cars knock at such low boost, he
replied that it can ofcourse be a
bad engine construction but he didn't
think that this was the case since
Mitsu usually makes good internals (he
works allot with the Lancer
Evo)
His suggestion was to change engine management system to a system
that has
higher resolution crankshaft trigger, this will result in a more
precise
ignition timing and that will help allot against knock.(i.e
Electromotive
have 60 points and our stock system have 3 points plus cam
sensor)
What do you guys think about this??? Does it make
sense?
/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Tue, 09 Nov
1999 10:34:40 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz
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CC:
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Missing &
Check engine????
References:
<6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F771B@EXCHANGE1>
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bulk
Matt,
I've tried that and it didn't work.
It only worked on my
dodge caravan with the Mitsubishi engine. I had
to do the
ignition thing 3 times on that car, and then I got the code
from the light. Anwyay, I think it's pin 1 to ground but don't
quote me on that. I told Trent I'll look it up tonight, coz I
definitely wrote it down. Besides, it's in the repair manual
too.
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N,
and Magnecors
Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> > Now, Jeff
suggested that I pull the codes from the ECU to
> > determine exactly
what the problem is. I am all for this
> > because I have taken
everything apart 3 times now!
> > However he wasn't sure exactly which
pin to ground to
> > make the check engine light flash the code.
Could someone
> > please help me with this? I have a 95 RT
TT. I checked
> > and it had the big 16 pin OBD
connector.
>
> I think you can actually have it flash the codes on
the
> check engine light. If it is possible on these cars,
you
> do the following with the ignition key:
>
> on
>
off
> on
> off
> on
>
> ...all within 5
seconds. You don't have to start the car, just toggle the key. It
should flash out the codes for you after the sequence is entered. Works on
2G Eclipse/Talons and other Mitsu ECU cars like the Dodge Avenger. Haven't
tried it on my 3000, but it has worked on other modern Mitsu-ECU cars.
Give it a try...
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Nav
Moondi" <moondin@megahits.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: ** Vegas : the
retrospective!! **
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:54:11 -0800
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bulk
Woo Hoo!. What a blast this weekend!!!
Lesse
here? Lots of dancing, lots of drinking, drag-racing
on the Strip,
Laughing our asses off at the video at Quincy's,
riding the
"big-shot" at the Stratosphere, and the coaster at
New York, New
York, terrorizing the locals at the Luxor at 4am,
Body Shots, Visiting
the friendly neighbourhood strip clubs,
Driving back to LA at 95mph
*racing!* for 2 hours with a highway
trooper (no kiddin'!) !!, lots of food,
not much gambling, rollerblading
(and falling!), go-kart racing!, Justin's
"ladies, look at my nipples!",
and good ol' Dan (the man of all
men) climbing a rock mountain!
Yes folks we did ALL that in one
weekend, plus a whole lot more!
Monica is right, if you didn't come because
of some dorky lame
excuse, you ARE LOSERS!! We had an absolute RIOT!!! all
this
weekend, no beating aroudn the bush! We were dancing at the
Beach til almost 4am!! Courtney, shame on you!!!! You
Wimp!
Got back Sunday night, completely exhausted. What memories!
Vegas *anytime*! baby is all I can say!!!
-= nav
=-
"Problems in this world: Ozone Layer, Hunger, Environment,
Logging,
Fat men in speedos in France..."
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 08:01:38 1999
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From:
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To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re Aero
downforce
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 07:57:24 -0800
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-Bob Forrest wrote:
snip
FYI: The Stealth
was being RE-designed by the late 80's, from the
Chrysler concept car
designed in the early 80's, built and shown
around '85/'86, originally called
the Intrepid" (no relation). By
the late 80's, they had Mitsu on
board to build the car for them so
it wouldn't break... With all of
Mitsu's racing experience through
the years, I'm sure they wouldn't have
built the Stealth with an
ineffective spoiler. After all, their name
was proudly in the
Stealth ads too, "Designed by Chrysler, Built by
Mitsubishi".
As an additional comment to the design features of the
wings on these
cars....it is obvious from the recessed arc behind the back
windows on both,
that the original wing design was for the Stealth type wing.
The Stealth
wing compliments the arc on this recessed portion perfectly. That
is, the
recess and the wing were obviously designed with each other in
mind. I
suspect Mitsu opted to depart with it's wing choice for: 1)
distinctness
from it's twin, and 2) because mechanization of the active aero
of their
design choice was more easily achieved given the dynamics of the
car. This
advantage, however, has the slight design clash with the recessed
arc that
the less flamboyant Stealth wing compliments so
well.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: How to Read
Diagnostic Codes
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:11:31 -0600
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> I've tried that and it didn't work. It
only worked on my
> dodge caravan with the Mitsubishi engine. I had
to do the
> ignition thing 3 times on that car, and then I got the code
> from the light. Anwyay, I think it's pin 1 to ground but don't
> quote me on that. I told Trent I'll look it up tonight, coz I
> definitely wrote it down. Besides, it's in the repair manual
too.
Here's the info:
Up to 1993 models:
Connect analog
voltmeter to top right pin (ground) of diagnostic test connector and to the
bottom left pin (diagnostic output terminal). This is the orientation when
the "clip" side is on the left side of the connector: (read
these with a fixed-width font, like Courier to preserve the
spacing)
--+--
| |G|
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
|
| |
| +-+
| | |
+-+-+
| | |
+-+-+
|T|
|
+-+-+
"G" is the ground, and "T" is the test
connection. Note the two "joined" connector cells on the left
side - that is how to determine the correct orientation of the connector.
It should have the two linked cells on the left side. I suppose flipping
the diagram results in the connections being in the same place, so the
orientation shouldn't matter that much.
94 and up
models:
-------------------------------
\ | 1| 2| 3| 4| 5| 6| 7|
8| /
\ +--+--+--+--+--+--+--+--+ /
\|
9|10|11|12|13|14|15|16|/
+-----------------------+
XXX
The ground terminal(s) are pins 4 and 5. The diagnostic output
terminal is pin 13.
Codes are flashed by a presence of voltage indicating
"on" and lack of voltage indicating "off". A code
starts with an "off" state, then long "on" flashes for the
first digit, then short "on" flashes for the second digit. You
may get multiple codes, which will flash in increasing sequence. The
sequence will repeat after each series. Easiest way to read these are with
a 12V light bulb (like an instrument cluster lamp), hooked up to a couple wires
which are inserted in the test connector.
Codes:
long ON -
ECU
11 - O2 sensor (or left bank O2, 94 and later CA model)
12 - Volume
air flow sensor
13 - Intake air temp sensor
14 - Throttle position
sensor
21 - Coolant temp sensor
22 - Crankshaft position sensor
23 -
Camshaft position sensor
24 - Vehicle speed sensor
25 - Barometric
pressure sensor
31 - Knock sensor
36 - Ignition timing adjustment signal
(DOHC)
39 - O2 sensor (right bank O2 on 94 and later CA models)
41 - Fuel
injector
43 - EGR (CA - Non-turbo, turbo)
44 - Ignition coil, ignition
power transistor (1-4 cylinder)
52 - Ignition coil, power transistor (2-5
cylinder)
53 - Ignition coil, power transistor (3-5 cylinder)
59 - Left
bank heated O2 sensor (rear) CA from 94 up
61 - Cable from transaxle control
module for transmission
of torque reduction signal
(A/T only)
62 - Induction control valve position sensor (non-turbo)
69 -
Right bank heated O2 sensor (rear) CA from 94 up
Continuous waver (on,
off, on, off...) - Normal state, no codes.
...for the Archives.
:-)
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 9 08:29:30 1999
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To: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Rick Diogo
<rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: DSM 13G cartridge in 3/S
turbos
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At 11:27 AM 11/8/99 -0600, Matt Jannusch wrote:
>I forgot who
asked, but I don't think you could just drop in a cartridge
>from a DSM
auto tranny turbo for the rear turbo. I think the vanes on the
>compressor and exhaust side wheel would also need to be reversed since
the
>flow through both sides is reversed. You could look in the
intake side of
>the rear turbo and see if it matches the front
side. If that's reversed,
>you know you are in
trouble.
My friend has a pair of 13g (automatic 1st gen Talon)
compressor wheels on
his factory 9b units and his car flies. He did
not have to reverse anything.
>Interesting idea
though... Maybe you could get the internals for the
>front side
turbo, and somehow acquire a reversed one for the rear. Or
>just
buy a rear 13G and save a ton of money.
see above.
Rick
94
R/T TT
Cartech intercoolers
13g turbos
HKS
exh
==============================================================
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 08:48:32 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: AFM Mesh..end
results
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:50:26 -0800
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The mesh in the
AFM serves in what seems to be some cases a true purpose, and
maybe in
others...a half purpose.
I honestly wouldnt like to see someone mess with
a $700 AFM without GOOD need.
IMHO, if it needs messed with at all,
put in a VPC and just replace it.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 9 08:51:52 1999
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From: "Jim
Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Bob Forrest"
<bf@bobforrest.com>,
<Muratokcu@aol.com>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<074701bf2a84$22142b20$95f286cd@forrest.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aero downforce
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:49:14 -0800
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bulk
But I must say that without
> active effects, my Stealth gets
pretty squirrely at around 135 (I
> won't go faster) while the Mitsus can
stay put at 170+. You'll see
> quite a few other "Taco"
style wings on certain models of another
> kind of car that frequents the
Autobahn. I think it's called a
> Porsche!? :-) But if
you're planning to go over 140 in your
> Stealth (which is very likely),
you may want to consider a ground
> effects
package...
====================================================
Hmmmmm
!! I had my 93 stealth TT up to 145 or so before the passenger
seat
speed limiter kicked in and it felt solid as a rock. I would have
no
problem taking it much farther.
PS. this run was before my
suspension mods.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FIPK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
--- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
---
GC/Eibach 600# F/350# R --- GC caster/camber
plate
Yokohama AVS sport
255x40x17
Porsch/Brembo [ big red ] brakes --- KVR 315mm
rotors
Roadrace engineering rear strut
tower
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 9 10:10:24 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Jim Berry"
<fastmax@home.com>, "Bob Forrest"
<bf@bobforrest.com>,
<Muratokcu@aol.com>, "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero
downforce
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 10:08:30 -0800
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I n this case, I suspect the difference in the performance at high
speed in
Bob's and Jim's cars (both Stealths) is the difference in the two
cars: one
is a NA base model and the other is a TT. There are some inherent
features
to the TT (AWD, AWS, ECS, etc) that would allow it to perform better
at
higher speeds.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 11:30:34 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov
1999 14:30:01 EST
Subject: Team3S: jet chips?
To:
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on their website
JetChips claims that their chips can increase hp by 10-30 on our cars (nonturbo
and turbo). does anyone have any experience with them? is this a
worthwhile purchase? their site www.jetchip.com
thanks,
andy
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 11:43:06 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov
1999 14:42:39 EST
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
To:
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Okay, I
get up and go out to get to my job interview on time, I turn the
key,
and I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob and dash
area, and the car doesn't crank. So I
tried a few more times and now
all I get is a clicking sound from underneath
around the starter area, and a
clicking around the same area where the buzz
came from. I'm hoping maybee
some type of solenoid
or switch went out. I'll be checking
it out.
Any
suggestions??
thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 11:49:28 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: MitsuVR41@aol.com
cc:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't
crank!!
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Dead battery --
possibly dead alternator. Very simple.
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Tue, 9 Nov 1999 MitsuVR41@aol.com
wrote:
> Okay, I get up and go out to get to my job interview on
time, I turn the
> key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from
around the shift nob and dash
> area, and the car doesn't
crank. So I tried a few more times and now
> all I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area,
and a
> clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping maybee
> some type of solenoid
or switch went out. I'll be checking
it out.
> Any
suggestions??
thanks.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 11:53:06 1999
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From: Todd Leveck
<todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 95VR-4
won't crank!!
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 11:48:17 -0800
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Your battery is
dead!!!
todd
93 vr4
-----Original Message-----
From:
MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999
11:43 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't
crank!!
Okay, I get up and go out to get to my job interview on
time, I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around
the shift nob and dash
area, and the car doesn't
crank. So I tried a few more times and now
all
I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and
a
clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping
maybee
some type of solenoid or
switch went out. I'll be checking it
out.
Any suggestions??
thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 9 12:11:18 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <MitsuVR41@aol.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 95VR-4
won't crank!!
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:09:39 -0800
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-----Original Message-----From:
MitsuVR41@aol.com
<MitsuVR41@aol.com>
>Okay, I get up and
go out to get to my job interview on time, I
turn the
>key, and I
hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob
and
dash
>area, and the car doesn't crank.
So I tried a few more times
and now
>all I get is a clicking sound from
underneath around the starter
area, and a
>clicking around the same
area where the buzz came from. I'm
hoping
maybee
>some type of solenoid or switch went
out. I'll be checking
it
out.
>Any suggestions??
thanks.
Sounds like a dead battery, but it could be a loose
battery
connection- smack the terminals a couple of times with a
(non-metal)
mallet and try again. Check all possible lights you might
have left
on (glove box, map lights) and charge the battery if you've got
a
charger. If it's still making noise, it could be the starter
(gone
through any puddles lately?). I guess maybe the alternator,
too.
Good luck,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 9 12:33:22 1999
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Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 21:24:16
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From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
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To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero
downforce
References:
<005901bf2a6f$2de0b1e0$841dc2cf@pentiumt>
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> Jim
Matthews, our European Admin in Germany, is off to Bavaria at the moment
>
or he'd likely respond personally on his experiences on the Autobahns
there
> in his Stealth TT. He's had no probs taking it to the max!
However, the
> Stealth wing and front air dam are not quite as effective
at light speed for
> stabilization purposes, as the Mitsu's rear
adjustable wing and front
> adjustable dam.
Well I have had my '95
Stealth RT TT up to 155 mph on the speedo here in Germany. I
have not
gone faster because my tires are a little thin, however, that will be
fixed
this week.:) Anyway, at 140 plus I have not noticed the car
wanting to "float" or loose
control in any way. However, I
have noticed that at about 120 mph the windows "pop"
(i.e. the
pressure differential actually pulls the door windows away from
the
gasketing). Between that and the sunroof the noise is VERY
loud. This probably
explains why the euro-VR4 does not have a sunroof
option. Above 150 the road noise is
very loud and with 18" rims it
is very rough. However, at about 155 mph the windshield
wipers start to
flutter, and almost look like they are going to fly off.
My experiences on unlimited speed limit road is that the Stealth is very
comfortable
at about 100 mph. Anymore and the road noise really starts
to get loud. However, I do
tend to go about 110-125 mph most of the
time where there is no speed limit. The
biggest problem with this is
stopping. If you have to go from 130 to 0 mph the stock
brakes
overheat. They can withstand one stop, but you will have to baby them for
about
five minutes before they are back to normal.
Mike C. (saving
for a brake upgrade)
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 12:35:03 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: <MitsuVR41@aol.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 95VR-4
won't crank!!
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:33:08 -0800
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Check your battery connections for starters. Could be as simple as
that.
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
<MitsuVR41@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:57
AM
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
>Okay, I get up
and go out to get to my job interview on time, I turn the
>key, and
I hear this buzzing noise come from around the shift nob and
dash
>area, and the car doesn't crank.
So I tried a few more times and now
>all I get is a clicking sound from
underneath around the starter area, and
a
>clicking around the same
area where the buzz came from. I'm
hoping
maybee
>some type of solenoid or switch went
out. I'll be checking it
out.
>Any suggestions??
thanks.
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 12:38:46 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: <ANguyen999@aol.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: jet
chips?
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 12:36:51 -0800
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What's interesting at this site is that they give different hp
increases
with their product for the Stealth vs 3000gt. Anyone care to
wager an
explanation as to why this is
;-)
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From:
ANguyen999@aol.com <ANguyen999@aol.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: Team3S: jet
chips?
>on their website JetChips claims that their chips can
increase hp by 10-30
on our cars (nonturbo and turbo). does anyone have
any experience with
them? is this a worthwhile purchase? their
site www.jetchip.com
>
>thanks,
>andy
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 12:41:03 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999
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Not sure, but
that worries me.. :)
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Tue, 9 Nov 1999, Darcy Gunnlaugson wrote:
> What's
interesting at this site is that they give different hp increases
> with
their product for the Stealth vs 3000gt. Anyone care to wager an
>
explanation as to why this is ;-)
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
ANguyen999@aol.com <ANguyen999@aol.com>
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:33 AM
> Subject: Team3S: jet
chips?
>
>
> >on their website JetChips claims that their
chips can increase hp by 10-30
> on our cars (nonturbo and turbo).
does anyone have any experience with
> them? is this a worthwhile
purchase? their site www.jetchip.com
> >
>
>thanks,
> >andy
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'MitsuVR41@aol.com'" <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
Cc:
"'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 95VR-4 won't crank!!
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 13:12:31 -0800
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My Predator goes
dead within two weeks if I don't keep a charger on it.
Exactly the same
symptom. Could be a loose cable or corroded connection as
well.
Hope
you didn't miss the job interview.
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
[mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 11:43 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 95VR-4 won't
crank!!
Okay, I get up and go out to get to my job interview on
time, I turn the
key, and I hear this buzzing noise come from around
the shift nob and dash
area, and the car doesn't
crank. So I tried a few more times and now
all
I get is a clicking sound from underneath around the starter area, and
a
clicking around the same area where the buzz came
from. I'm hoping
maybee
some type of solenoid or
switch went out. I'll be checking it
out.
Any suggestions??
thanks.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<Pine.SOL.3.95.991109124019.14872H-100000@nodserv>
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Warning : jet chips?
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:59:07
+0100
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Guys,
Please ALWAYS snip the unimportant part of the message
as the member who are
interested in the topic have already read them
!
> Not sure, but that worries me.. :)
Also, we do not accept
the chatting style of the the messages we have seen
lately. Therefore please
replay to the list with information that is of a
value for everyone or reply
privately.
For more information please reread the rules
!
Thanks,
Roger for the Admins
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From
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "3000GT Mailing"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<006e01bf2a96$492b51e0$5444e4d8@oemcomputer>
Subject: Re: Honey Combs
....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:14:36
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> Pardon my ignorance Roger,
> But how do u do
that?
No ignorance at all ;-)
> I mean the original honey
combs..i remember seem to be
> pretty thick. If I were to go to a hardware
shop and fine a mesh material,
> would it actually serve the same purpose
as those honey combs?
The idea of the honeycombs is to straighten the air
(as already told by
others) and to smoothen it out. As I mentioned, the MAF
in the Camaros do
have such a thin mesh infront of the hot wires. Removing it
causes the car
to idle less good but some say removing the screen gives mroe
power. Well,
this is not proven :)
> How would we attach the
mesh...my fear is that it might get sucked into
the
> wrong place...do
i make sense?
Yes, sure, you definitely have to cut something out that
fits behind the
plastic part that is removeable. I didn't thought further
than just using a
cheap screen with only the area that is needed for the air
flow sensor. It's
just an idea and you may get it further. I don't need it as
I already have
an ARC MAF kit installed :-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 13:30:27 1999
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<001301bf2af2$28060a80$d317c2cf@pentiumt>
Subject: Re: Team3S: jet
chips?
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 22:24:21 +0100
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> What's interesting at this site is that they give different hp
increases
> with their product for the Stealth vs 3000gt. Anyone
care to wager an
> explanation as to why this is ;-)
Ok guys, we
ALL KNOW that our cars cannot be tuned up by a simple chip. This
is because
our ECU do not have chips inside ! The only solution is a
daughter board and
this runs for at least $750.
Other tuners do some simple modifications
like soldering a small resistor to
the stock boost solenoid activating line.
This will close the valve later
than normal, causing a higher overall boost.
This works but is still too
expensive because it still does nothing else than
bleeding the pressure in
the actuator lines.
IMHO, Chips should give
anyone these chips for free, let them dyno test it
(a NA car, or they send me
the chip and I dyno it here on the AWD) and if it
works I'm sure some will
buy them. But to be honest .... they only sell a
sticker and a resistor,
nothing else.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Team3S: Ground
cam's...
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Today I poped
open the oil cap on my valve cover and looked in.. the first
part (tooth?
section? whatever it is.. the raised part) looks GREAT.. but
the rest (as far
in as I can see) looks like osmeone took a sandblaster to
it!! Its GROUND TO
HELL! I bought a warentee with the car, but the mitsu
dealer (at least w/o
taking it apart andl ooking at it) says it'll
probably be considered a
"wear" item.. which means that they wont cover
it.. (kind of like a
clutch or brakes). Right now the car runs fine but i
have a few questions..
1, could this be giving me less power than I should
have? 2) how
hard are they to replace? how much money does it cost for
good upgraded cams?
Is it a job I can do myself? 3) Should I even worry
about it, or just
drive on these until they die? 4) shoudl I be able to
get mitsu (fyi, its a
GM warentee) to cover the cams?
Thanks..
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ignition and knock
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:14:54
+0100
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> I asked if he had any ideas about why our cars knock at such
low boost, he
> replied that it can ofcourse be a bad engine construction
but he didn't
> think that this was the case since Mitsu usually makes
good internals (he
> works allot with the Lancer Evo)
Well, there
is a big difference : we have two 3-cylinder engines connected
together. A V8
knocks much less as well does an inline engine. But the gain
is a
lightweight, compact engine with still plenty of power.
> His
suggestion was to change engine management system to a system that has
>
higher resolution crankshaft trigger, this will result in a more precise
>
ignition timing and that will help allot against knock.(i.e
Electromotive
> have 60 points and our stock system have 3 points plus cam
sensor)
And what would be the gain then ? I'm currently run a G-Force ECU
with a
little more timing than a stock California car. The datalogs showed
that the
timing was less than with my stock EU ECU and there was
significantly less
knock ... almost no knock ! I do not have enough money to
go to the dyno day
by day and run the new ECU. but I do not feel a lot of
difference in powere
due to the less advanced timing. Maybe this is the
trick, although I think
that this may rise EGT too.
The high
resolution of the electromotice crankshaft sensor is good as it is
possible
to set the timign more accurately. But I'm sure even only the
electromotive
stuff with its coisl and the engergy sent to the plugs will
solve the most of
the ignition problems and therefore also some of the
detonation and knock
stuff.
Just to test the thing out is a little to expensive for me
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Matt Wise"
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Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ground cam's...
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:23:53 +0100
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> the rest (as far in as I can see) looks like osmeone took a
sandblaster to
> it!! Its GROUND TO HELL! I bought a warentee with the
car, but the mitsu
> dealer (at least w/o taking it apart andl ooking at
it) says it'll
> probably be considered a "wear" item.. which
means that they wont cover
> it.. (kind of like a clutch or
brakes).
Don't worry, this is the output camshaft you are seeing and
there is only a
little wear and they have to be totally blank ! You cann pul
lthe valve
cover and inspect both camshafts and look if one or more have
strange signs
of abnormal wear. But this is very seldom.
> 1, could
this be giving me less power than I should have?
no problem
>
2) how hard are they to replace? how much money does it cost for
> good
upgraded cams?
There are only custom cams available and then you shoudl also
use other
parts as well as lightweight valves, ported heads,
etc.
> 3) Should I even worry about it, or just drive on these
until they die?
Nahhh, forget them and drive the car. Nothing to worry unless
you have very
strange signs or even a broken part of the camshaft or metallic
particles
under the valvecover.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 15:29:07 1999
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1999 18:28:27 EST
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt. 2
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Okay, the
battery is not dead. Everything in the car still has power. The
alarm still works, lights, etc.... The
only electrical things that
dont' work are the stereo, and the power
mirrors. The MFI relay switch
is
what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay switch
would cause a starting problem or would it? The starter motor has
acutally
turned on, but nothing else happend, every thing else
just seemed dead.
The battery I have is a competition 1000 cold
cranking amp battery, so I'd
hope it would have enough juice, it
is brand new. I'm still
troubleshooting here.
when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the MFI and starter
relays.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 15:49:37 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S:
VR-4 wont crank pt. 2
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This is another
problem that I too am trying to solve. I will hear a click when
I turn
over the key. The car will start eventually, but sometimes it
takes
10-20 tries. It also seems to be getting worse :(. I have
had the problem with
my old and new starter, old and new battery, old and new
starter relay, old and
new battery cable connectors. The clutch switch
seems fine as I always hear the
click when it is depressed. About the
only thing I haven't replaced is the
alarm relay in the starter
circuit. Another possibility might be my aftermarket
alarm if it has a
kill switch. The battery cables have no corrosion on the
battery end,
but I'll check the other end for good connections. I will also
measure
voltage at the battery and the starter when the key is turned.
Good luck
to both of us!
MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> Okay, the
battery is not dead. Everything in the car still has power.
The
> alarm still works, lights,
etc.... The only electrical things that
> dont'
work are the stereo, and the power
mirrors. The MFI relay switch
>
is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay
switch
> would cause a starting problem or would it? The starter
motor has acutally
> turned on, but nothing else happend,
every thing else just seemed dead.
> The battery I have is a competition
1000 cold cranking amp battery, so I'd
> hope it would have enough
juice, it is brand new. I'm still
>
troubleshooting here. when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the MFI and
starter
> relays.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
--
I'm just driving this way to
piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 15:50:38 1999
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From: "Jim
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To: <MitsuVR41@aol.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<0.134ce3ee.255a081b@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt.
2
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 15:48:11 -0800
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The only way to be sure if you have enough battery power is with a
voltmeter.
Measure the voltage at the battery terminals [ NOT at the cable
connectors ],
and have someone attempt to start the car ---- the voltage
should stay up
around 10 or 11 volts. If the voltage drops down to 8 volts
or so you have a
dead battery. If the battery voltage stays up then measure
the voltage at the
cables, if the voltage drops low it would indicate a
corroded battery terminal.
If it remains high then you have a problem
elsewhere.
PS. a hydrometer can also be used to check charge on a
battery, they cost
a few bucks at your local parts store but they wont detect
corroded cables.
PPS. some of the low power items will work when the
battery is low because
they don't require high current from the battery. I
would however expect the
lights to be dim.
Jim
Berry
===========================================================
,
the battery is not dead. Everything in the car still has power. The
> alarm still works, lights, etc....
The only electrical things that
> dont' work are the stereo, and the
power mirrors. The MFI relay switch
> is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see where the MFI relay
switch
> would cause a starting problem or would it? The starter
motor has acutally
> turned on, but nothing else happend,
every thing else just seemed dead.
> The battery I have is a
competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery, so I'd
> hope it would
have enough juice, it is brand new. I'm still
> troubleshooting here. when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the
MFI and starter
> relays.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "SkoobY"
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To: "Ken Middaugh"
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>, <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
Cc:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt.
2
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 19:20:32 -0500
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bulk
Make that three of us...
my radio does work, as well as
everything else in the car, but i get nothing
but that annoying click (and
buzz if you hold the key) for 5-10 turns of the
key...
from what you
replaced, it doesnt seem like the starter... what could
it
be??
Carlos
----- Original Message -----
From: Ken
Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To:
<MitsuVR41@aol.com>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Tuesday, November 09, 1999 6:49 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt.
2
> This is another problem that I too am trying to solve. I
will hear a
click when
> I turn over the key. The car will start
eventually, but sometimes it
takes
> 10-20 tries. It also seems
to be getting worse :(. I have had the
problem with
> my old and
new starter, old and new battery, old and new starter relay,
old and
>
new battery cable connectors. The clutch switch seems fine as I
always
hear the
> click when it is depressed. About the only
thing I haven't replaced is
the
> alarm relay in the starter
circuit. Another possibility might be my
aftermarket
> alarm if
it has a kill switch. The battery cables have no corrosion
on
the
> battery end, but I'll check the other end for good
connections. I will
also
> measure voltage at the battery and the
starter when the key is turned.
>
> Good luck to both of
us!
>
> MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
Okay, the battery is not dead. Everything in the car still has
power.
The
> > alarm still works, lights,
etc.... The only electrical things that
> >
dont' work are the stereo, and the power
mirrors. The MFI
relay
switch
> > is what was doing the clicking, but I can't see
where the MFI relay
switch
> > would cause a starting problem or
would it? The starter motor has
acutally
> > turned on,
but nothing else happend, every thing else just seemed
dead.
>
> The battery I have is a competition 1000 cold cranking amp battery,
so
I'd
> > hope it would have enough juice, it is brand
new. I'm still
> > troubleshooting here.
when I find my ohmeter, i'll test the MFI and
starter
> >
relays.
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> --
> I'm just
driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 9 16:16:02 1999
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From: "Jim
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To: "Ken Middaugh"
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References:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 wont crank pt.
2
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 16:13:18 -0800
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bulk
You can bypass the clutch switch just by unplugging one of the
wires
to the microswitch [ the switch opens when the clutch is depressed
]
There are two switches, one when you first depress the clutch [
cruse
control ] and one when the clutch is fully depressed [ interlock
] make
sure you unplug the right one. A word of caution ---- with the
interlock
removed you can start the car in gear.
Jim
Berry
> . The clutch switch seems fine as I always hear
the
> click when it is depressed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
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To: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>,
"3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few Questions..
Date: Tue, 9 Nov
1999 16:22:10 -0800
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bulk
Hi Roger,
Thanks for replying. I spoke to Brian before about
the ARC kit.....
Hmm....what if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with the
monster flow. Will
that be sufficient to cure the problem or would the
upgraded MAF do more
damage to my car. My question is do I have to buy also
the ARC unit too in
order for the upgraded MAF unit to work?
I must
call Brian again to ask him...real nice
guy.
Later
Julian
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 1:32
PM
Subject: Re: Honey Combs ....Team3S: New To List/Few
Questions..
>> Pardon my ignorance Roger,
>> But how
do u do that?
>
>No ignorance at all ;-)
>
>> I mean
the original honey combs..i remember seem to be
>> pretty thick. If I
were to go to a hardware shop and fine a mesh
material,
>> would it
actually serve the same purpose as those honey combs?
>
>The idea of
the honeycombs is to straighten the air (as already told by
>others) and
to smoothen it out. As I mentioned, the MAF in the Camaros do
>have such a
thin mesh infront of the hot wires. Removing it causes the car
>to idle
less good but some say removing the screen gives mroe power. Well,
>this
is not proven :)
>
>> How would we attach the mesh...my fear is
that it might get sucked into
>the
>> wrong place...do i make
sense?
>
>Yes, sure, you definitely have to cut something out that
fits behind the
>plastic part that is removeable. I didn't thought further
than just using a
>cheap screen with only the area that is needed for the
air flow sensor.
It's
>just an idea and you may get it further. I don't
need it as I already have
>an ARC MAF kit installed
:-)
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 17:43:22 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To:
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ARC MAF
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 20:29:17 -0800
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>just an idea and you may get it further. I don't need it as
I already have
>an ARC MAF kit installed
:-)
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
Roger, do you like the
ARC MAF? Is it worth $1000 and does it give you any
more
power
alone? How much better is it than a VPC? I went to your
site and I
concluded from your graphs
that knock was not significantly
different, but that you attribute that to
stock injectors. >I am
planning
on getting the 550cc injectors, Supra pump, 15g turbos and some sort
of fuel
computer. I was just going
to get a G-Force because these
will be the extent of my mods as far as
turbos are concerned and
will not
need further adjustment-this is a daily driver and I want no real
lag and
reliable power. However,
cost is all the same, unless I get a stand
alone AFC, but my experience with
the boost controller tells me
I will
always be fooling with it, and that becomes a nuisance. Also, I
need
good mileage and only get
about 300 miles to a tank now! What
is your opinion on this ARC unit, and
how fuel efficient is it
under
normal driving?
Sam 95 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 18:57:25 1999
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Date:
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From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC MAF
To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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--- Sam Shelat
<sshelat@erols.com> wrote:
> Also, I need
> good mileage
and only get
> about 300 miles to a tank now! What is your
opinion
> on this ARC unit, and
> how fuel efficient is it
under
> normal driving?
>
> Sam 95 VR4
>
Hey Sam,
I have the ARC MAF kit + 550s + HKS pump.
Daily
driving is excellent.. virtually like stock. Fuel
efficiency is also
great.. im getting an average of
330 miles to a tank (same as
stock!!)
I'll let Roger and other answer the technical
questions..
Good Luck!!
George Kuo
'92 RT TT daily driver
visit my
site:
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html
=====
__________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
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Subject: Team3S: RE: Honey
Combs
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:08:47 -0600
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> Hmm....what
if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with the monster flow. Will
> that be
sufficient to cure the problem or would the upgraded MAF do more
> damage
to my car. My question is do I have to buy also the ARC unit too in
>
order for the upgraded MAF unit to work?
You would need the ARC along
with the MAF. The upgraded MAF is a hot-wire
style meter, not
Karman-Vortex. The ARC converts and adjusts the signal
to Karman-style
so the ECU can understand it.
I might also be doing the ARC in
spring. Sounds like a good unit for a
mostly reasonable
price.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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References:
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Subject: Team3S: MAF/Honeycombs
explained, FREE TECH MANUAL!
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:09:37
-0600
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bulk
I saw a couple of posts fly by about removal of honeycombs in the
3/S MAF.
Since knowledge is power (horsepower? :) I extracted JUST the pages
that
explain the MAF operation in most "Karman Vortex" systems
utilized by
Mitsubishi.
It is in a 110k PDF file at this
URL
http://manualcd.dsm.org/dsmgift/
Also at that site is the
COMPLETE DSM Tech manual (included on both the 3/S
and DSM CD's), it's about
19mb, and can be downloaded in 4megabyte chunks,
which are self extracting
(instructions also in a readme file).
Some other files are also there for
customers or people that needed just a
section for one reason or another, and
you are welcome to download them as
well. I thought I would give something
back to the 3/S and DSM community as
a whole, "free of charge :)".
In fact, if anyone needs a section or a page,
feel free to ask, it only takes
me a second!
What does the DSM tech manual have to do with 3/S cars? A
LOT. Think of the
DSMs as your little brothers and sisters (you know,
shorter, smaller,
usually slower :). When it really comes down to it, they
are the same car in
operation, with the 3/S being the more luxurious of the
two, and also having
1 or 2 more of everything (turbos, plugs, liters,
pistons, heads, exhaust
tips, legroom, and a drum/disc combo in the rear that
I didn't expect this
weekend! :).
The TECH manual explains alot of the
voodoo that the car does behind your
back, and when it puts that smile on
your face :)
Oh yes, and the point is... DON'T remove your honeycombs
unless they are
part of a "BYPASS" chamber, or you are prepared to
use a HK$ VPC which
converts your current Karman system to a MAP (pressure)
system.
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club
DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org - "Never Lift To
Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 19:26:22 1999
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Date: Tue, 9 Nov
1999 22:25:50 EST
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 CRANKS NOW check it out
To:
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Okay guys,
like I said, I have a brand new competition series battery with
1000
cold cranking amps. I hooked a ohm meter/volmeter to it to see if it
was charged or not. The meter read the battery as having 12 volts
HOWEVER
when I hooked the battery up to the charger, it read
almost dead. I
charged the battery for an hour and
my car then cranked right up. I'm
thinking all of you who
have been having cranking problems, maybee you
should check the cold
cranking amps on your batteries and hook your batteries
up to a charger to
see if our alternators or whatever have kept them full
charge. Like I
said, I have had the same symptoms on two VR-4's and each
time was
related to a new battery that wasn't fully charged. CHECK YOUR
BATTERY
types, age, and
charge! I"m
back and boosting around the
streets. FEELS
GOOD. :) Thanks for
the help.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 20:49:44 1999
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From: "Kevin"
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To:
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Subject: Team3S: Question to those who
have a Hallman boost controller.
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 23:39:43
-0500
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A few questions.
1. Do you notice quicker spool up times over
stock?
2. Do you have to re-adjust for changing weather conditions?
3. On
the web site there is a picture of the unit. What is the small
brass
piece inline on the long piece of hose? There are two hose clamps
on either
side of the small unit. I think it's an unloader valve, but
not sure. (not
I am not asking about the brass part with the adjuster on
it)
4. Do you get a large amount of overshoot?
5. Any problems
that you can see with the unit?
I have a Blitz SSBC right now, and just
want to understand how the Hallman
system works. They raise some good
points on their website.
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com ) and just
want to see if any of it
is true. Basically the wastegate does not open
until the boost pressure
over comes the relief valve, this would lead to the
quickest spool up times.
They claim even better than
EBC's.
Thanks,
Kevin Schappell
Auto
Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check
out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under
construction---------------
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 23:04:27 -0600
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Where is Brad
Bedell?
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I've been trying
to contact Brad Bedell for about two weeks so I can buy a
Big Red brake
setup.
He does not respond.
Anybody have a home phone number or snail mail
address?
Please reply off list if you do to
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
If he HAS left us, does anyone know where I can
buy a Brembo kit like Brad's?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop
me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 21:27:15 1999
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To: "Matt
Jannusch"
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>,
"3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Honey Combs
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 21:32:16
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Thanks for the info Matt. I guess my next decision is to get either
the
entire ARC kit or stick with the traditional AFC and tune it from there
with
the help of friends. :)
So far the best price for the MAF unit is
250$ +20$ = 270$ from
msrecycling.com. Then we have Roger's idea which I am
still playing around
with. The local Mitsu dealership wants to sell the MAF
unit for 580
bucks!!!!! WHAT A RIP OFF! compared to Tallahassee
Mitsu!
Thanks people.
Julian Ng
94 VR4
Seattle
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt
Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 09, 1999 7:10
PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: Honey Combs
>> Hmm....what if I buy
just the upgraded MAF unit with the monster flow.
Will
>> that be
sufficient to cure the problem or would the upgraded MAF do more
>>
damage to my car. My question is do I have to buy also the ARC unit
too
in
>> order for the upgraded MAF unit to
work?
>
>You would need the ARC along with the MAF. The
upgraded MAF is a hot-wire
>style meter, not Karman-Vortex. The ARC
converts and adjusts the signal
>to Karman-style so the ECU can understand
it.
>
>I might also be doing the ARC in spring. Sounds like a
good unit for a
>mostly reasonable price.
>
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 22:10:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov
1999 01:09:28 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero downforce
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Thanks for the
input Mike, what brand pads/rotors do you use?
on my other mitsu (starion) I
have excellent results with original mitsu pads
and terrible experience with
after-market pads
are mitsu pads for T/T any good?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 9 23:28:34 1999
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From: "Vineet Singh"
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Question
to those who have a Hallman boost controller
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 01:31:09
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I have a boost controller made by Diamond Star Specialties (DSS). It
is
IDENTICAL in operation to the hallman (hbc) (which I have two of, both on
my
other cars). However it is not as "touchy" unless you want to go
over about
18-19psi, where an extra spring needs to be installed. The
construction is
really similar as well as the hook up.
This type of
boost controller is NOT really a bleeder, and actually lets the
turbo spool a
bit quicker due to NO pressure being seen by the wastegate(s)
until the check
ball inside the HBC lets the set pressure out to them. Stock
operation, I
would not be surprised to know that the wastegates start to
crack open (and
make your turbo's less efficient/slower to build boost) at
about
5psi!
I have it set to 12 psi, and it doesn't creep at all. I have gone
as high as
14psi (where I recorded my ~400hp to the wheels, and also a 13.5
1/4 mile
time) with no problems, and quicker than stock spool overall. It is
a simple
hookup, and if you use some 3mm silicon tubing, you can revert back
to stock
if need be (warranty issues, that I don't have :(
Best of
all, the HBC is near $95, the XBC (Extreme) is about the same, the
DSS is
cheaper than either, and there is another player just announced to
the DSM
digest, and definately has other well made
products,
http://users.erinet.com/40666/DSM-MBC.htm
IMO, an electronic
boost controller is just about $250 that you could have
spent to actually go
faster... plus a MBC is much... MUCH easier to install.
I believe that that
last URL I posted actually has a "hybrid" of the two, a
hallman
style BC with 2-3 settings with solenoids. All for less than 180$
(I
think).
Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD -
http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org -
"Never Lift To Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Wed Nov 10 02:19:44 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "team3s"
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Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC MAF
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:01:37 +0100
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> Roger, do
you like the ARC MAF? Is it worth $1000 and does it give you any
>
more power alone ?
It works better than expected. It just started snowing
here and when I installed the ARC/MAF, it was 90° outside. So this is a
great test for the reliability and till now, it is very good ! Well, of course,
you have 4 knobs that have to be dialed in and one click is 2% adjustment. I
often wished that the adjustments woudl be in 1% because sometimes 2% more are
rich and 2% less are lean.
It is easier to dial it in as the VPC was that
I once installed for a test with the stock injectors. This is due to the fact
that there must no chip be installed and therefore this huge variable is
eliminated.
> How much better is it than a VPC? I went to
your site and I concluded from your graphs
> that knock was not
significantly different, but that you attribute that to
> stock
injectors.
Exactly ! I included the datalogs on my page to show the
people what happens when you dial in the ARC. It also shows, that our cars even
under rich conditions (O2 sensor readings)cause knock. Increasing the fuel then
will eliminate the knock to the stock level but the injectors will be also
maxxed out. The ARC/MAF is not a device that eliminates knock but it frees up
the air flow and allows the add of any injector size you want from 360cc to
720cc ! Also installation of the ARC is a breeze compared to the VPC, although a
well installed VPC that is properly tuned in is a very good solution too. I got
the ARC/MAF because it is seems to be much more reliable for any seasons and
ambient conditions than the VPC. As I drive it since 1200 miles with so many
differnet conditions I'd say it is very good and the fuel consumption is less
and less the more I drive. My current settings give a good mixture during normal
driving and fuel when fuel (i.e. Power) is needed. The only problem is !
that
I sometimes play with the settings as the difference between off throttle
(engine braking) and then going back to light throttle is very sensible and to
find the right balance is not that easy. I now left one of the good combinations
and changed my driving style a little. Nothing to worry IMHO.
> I am
planning on getting the 550cc injectors, Supra pump, 15g turbos and some sort of
fuel
> computer.
Right path ! But for the later you only have two
real solutions : ARC / VPC. The AFC is something like a solution that is always
rpm based and is not dependant on the load. I'd say that this is good for the
track or up to 460cc injectors but not for more.
> I was just
going to get a G-Force because these will be the extent of my mods as far
as
> turbos are concerned and will not need further adjustment-this is a
daily driver and I want no real
> lag and reliable power.
What I
noticed is that I have less bog when shifting into second. Also when I
accelerate heavily in first I have to careful as on a little wet roads all four
wheels start to spin and this can end in a bad experience. We have other quality
of the streets here in Europe (esp. Switzerland) and normally it is almost
impossible to spin the tires. I haven't been to the dyno as I wanted to solve
the ignition problems first and I'm a little bit low on money (a run is $100)
right now. But my dyno butt and the active speed and power limiter in the
passengers seat (i.e. girlfriend yelling at me) tells me that there is more
power due to the free airflow and fuel on demand.
> Also, I need good
mileage and only get about 300 miles to a tank now! What is your opinion
on
> this ARC unit, and how fuel efficient is it under normal
driving?
As George already stated fuel economy is good. I myself would
say it is very good. First, the A/F meter that comes with the ARC is something
like an anti-lead-foot device :-) The blue bright LEDs showing rich conditions
are causing a "I waste fuel" feeling in my mind. The mixture balances
in the stoich area when normal driving, cruising and idle and only goes
rich/very rich when needed. With this, it takes me less fuel than I ever used
and this is about 335 - 345 miles per tank. Of course, with the many faster cars
we have around here it is easy to consume more of the juice. When I do some
tests with datalogs .... no comment on fuel consumption ;-)
The stuff is
not cheap as $1000 is a lot for fuel controlling. Then the injectors and the
fuel pump also are not the cheapest part. But then you are open to anything !
You can start with DSM injectors, keep the stock turbos and later increase the
boost and run larger Turbos. The adjustments must then only be made on the ARC
with the four knobs and you're done. It'll take some time until you have reached
the goal as you want a fast street car and a racing car as well but the ARC/MAF
is a one time investion and you do not need a new program anyone else must burn
for you.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 10 02:19:49 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "3000GT Mailing"
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References:
<005701bf2b11$a2523c40$8244e4d8@oemcomputer>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Honey
Combs ....ARC/MAF
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 11:06:27 +0100
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> Hmm....what
if I buy just the upgraded MAF unit with the monster flow.
As already
stated, the MAF and the ARC run together. You cannot use one without the other,
no way. "Monster flow" is a little bit too positive as the dia is only
83mm and the 100mm is in test and may not give us more
gain.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999
02:33:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
cc: team3s
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Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC MAF
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YOu still get 345 miles on a tank? I average 270 miles before the
yellow
indicator lite comes on. My car is also a 93 VR-4. Admittadely, I am
18
and still have alot of "teenage exhuberance"... So I suppose
this mileage
will go up.. (Oh and the yellow indicator light goes on at 17
gallons,
even though we have a 20 galon tank right?)
--Matt
Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Wed, 10 Nov 1999, R.G.
wrote:
> > Roger, do you like the ARC MAF? Is it worth $1000
and does it give you any
> > more power alone ?
>
> It
works better than expected. It just started snowing here and when I installed
the ARC/MAF, it was 90° outside. So this is a great test for the reliability
and till now, it is very good ! Well, of course, you have 4 knobs that have to
be dialed in and one click is 2% adjustment. I often wished that the adjustments
woudl be in 1% because sometimes 2% more are rich and 2% less are lean.
>
> It is easier to dial it in as the VPC was that I once installed for a
test with the stock injectors. This is due to the fact that there must no chip
be installed and therefore this huge variable is eliminated.
>
>
> How much better is it than a VPC? I went to your site and I
concluded from your graphs
> > that knock was not significantly
different, but that you attribute that to
> > stock injectors.
>
> Exactly ! I included the datalogs on my page to show the people what
happens when you dial in the ARC. It also shows, that our cars even under rich
conditions (O2 sensor readings)cause knock. Increasing the fuel then will
eliminate the knock to the stock level but the injectors will be also maxxed
out. The ARC/MAF is not a device that eliminates knock but it frees up the air
flow and allows the add of any injector size you want from 360cc to 720cc ! Also
installation of the ARC is a breeze compared to the VPC, although a well
installed VPC that is properly tuned in is a very good solution too. I got the
ARC/MAF because it is seems to be much more reliable for any seasons and ambient
conditions than the VPC. As I drive it since 1200 miles with so many differnet
conditions I'd say it is very good and the fuel consumption is less and less the
more I drive. My current settings give a good mixture during normal driving and
fuel when fuel (i.e. Power) is needed. The only problem i!
s !
> that I
sometimes play with the settings as the difference between off throttle (engine
braking) and then going back to light throttle is very sensible and to find the
right balance is not that easy. I now left one of the good combinations and
changed my driving style a little. Nothing to worry IMHO.
>
> >
I am planning on getting the 550cc injectors, Supra pump, 15g turbos and some
sort of fuel
> > computer.
>
> Right path ! But for the
later you only have two real solutions : ARC / VPC. The AFC is something like a
solution that is always rpm based and is not dependant on the load. I'd say that
this is good for the track or up to 460cc injectors but not for more.
>
> > I was just going to get a G-Force because these will be the
extent of my mods as far as
> > turbos are concerned and will not need
further adjustment-this is a daily driver and I want no real
> > lag
and reliable power.
>
> What I noticed is that I have less bog when
shifting into second. Also when I accelerate heavily in first I have to careful
as on a little wet roads all four wheels start to spin and this can end in a bad
experience. We have other quality of the streets here in Europe (esp.
Switzerland) and normally it is almost impossible to spin the tires. I haven't
been to the dyno as I wanted to solve the ignition problems first and I'm a
little bit low on money (a run is $100) right now. But my dyno butt and the
active speed and power limiter in the passengers seat (i.e. girlfriend yelling
at me) tells me that there is more power due to the free airflow and fuel on
demand.
>
> > Also, I need good mileage and only get about 300
miles to a tank now! What is your opinion on
> > this ARC unit,
and how fuel efficient is it under normal driving?
>
> As George
already stated fuel economy is good. I myself would say it is very good. First,
the A/F meter that comes with the ARC is something like an anti-lead-foot device
:-) The blue bright LEDs showing rich conditions are causing a "I waste
fuel" feeling in my mind. The mixture balances in the stoich area when
normal driving, cruising and idle and only goes rich/very rich when needed. With
this, it takes me less fuel than I ever used and this is about 335 - 345 miles
per tank. Of course, with the many faster cars we have around here it is easy to
consume more of the juice. When I do some tests with datalogs .... no comment on
fuel consumption ;-)
>
> The stuff is not cheap as $1000 is a lot
for fuel controlling. Then the injectors and the fuel pump also are not the
cheapest part. But then you are open to anything ! You can start with DSM
injectors, keep the stock turbos and later increase the boost and run larger
Turbos. The adjustments must then only be made on the ARC with the four knobs
and you're done. It'll take some time until you have reached the goal as you
want a fast street car and a racing car as well but the ARC/MAF is a one time
investion and you do not need a new program anyone else must burn for
you.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 10 03:15:38 1999
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From:
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cryogenics (on
topic)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:17:39 +0100
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Check this
out!!!!!
http://members.aol.com/fasfwrd/
These guys (FFWD
Connection) say that they can make any metal part 3 times
stronger by
"Cryogenics"
If I understand it right they put the whole part
(gearbox, axle, turbos or
wahatever) in a big "fridge" and slowly
drop the temperature to -340 deg F
until the whole part has that temperature
and then slowly up to 70F and then
they cycle that a few times
(3).
I've heard about Cryo rotors but didn't thought it could be applied
to
shafts and pistons etc. If they can make my transfer case 3 times
stonger
then this is the best since....eh.. the invention of turbos..
:)
Any one tested this? Is this for real or is it a hoax just to rip me
off?
/Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 05:45:18 1999
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From: "Michael
McWilliams" <CelMike@email.msn.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question to those
who have a Hallman boost controller.
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:35:16
-0500
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I have a Hallman in my Stealth which was in my Talon before
that. Answers
to your questions (as best I can)
1. I
think it DOES spool up faster than stock but it may just be my
perception
since I raised boost pressure over stock when I installed it.
2. I have
not had to adjust it for weather conditions. I was told that if
you
keep the hoses very short, you shouldn't have to and I've found this to
be
true.
3. I don't know what the in-line brass piece does
(sorry)
4. I assume by overshoot you mean boost spikes. The
answer is I didn't get
spikes in either car.
5. I don't see any
problems with them and always recommend them to people
who ask my
opinion. Only downside is that its not cockpit adjustable, and
its
really just trial and error to get it set to the boost pressure
you
want. This doesn't really bother me because I just set it once when
I
installed it and haven't touched it since.
Hope this
helps.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 05:59:32 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cryogenics (on
topic)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 06:59:01 -0700
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This could be a
good route to take, or it may not be...
"Strength" is an
insufficient term. Something that is very very hard may
withstand
certain types of force but may also be more susceptible to other
types of
stresses. The converse is true as well. I'd be concerned
about
the amount of repeated shock the driveline is subjected to by the
engine.
Once under load it may not be as big of a deal unless the engine is
simply
producing more power than the metal can withstand. So, you'd
need to
determine the constant pressure the pieces can withstand as well as
the
resilience to shock and how well it holds up under repeated applied
stress.
Pardon the analogy, but it may serve to illustrate.
Consider a bamboo and
an oak tree in a tropical storm. Although the oak
may be considered
stronger it is also more likely to be toppled than the
bamboo. Up to a
point the bamboo will bend and return to shape
undamaged. An oak will
simply break once it has met a certain level of
force.
It may be worth asking them.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> Check this out!!!!!
>
>
http://members.aol.com/fasfwrd/
>
> These guys (FFWD Connection) say
that they can make any metal part 3 times
> stronger by
"Cryogenics"
>
> If I understand it right they put the
whole part (gearbox, axle, turbos or
> wahatever) in a big
"fridge" and slowly drop the temperature to -340 deg F
> until
the whole part has that temperature and then slowly up to
> 70F and
then
> they cycle that a few times (3).
>
> I've heard about
Cryo rotors but didn't thought it could be applied to
> shafts and pistons
etc. If they can make my transfer case 3 times stonger
> then this is the
best since....eh.. the invention of turbos.. :)
>
> Any one tested
this? Is this for real or is it a hoax just to rip me off?
>
>
/Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'R.G.'"
<robby@freesurf.ch>, team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ARC MAF
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 07:38:27 -0800
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Roger...
When you say "no chip installed" are you
talking about the G-force chips? I
was under the impression you're still
running your modified ECU along with
the ARC MAF...not true?
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
[mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 2:02 AM
To:
team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC MAF
<snip>
It is easier to dial
it in as the VPC was that I once installed for a test
with the stock
injectors. This is due to the fact that there must no chip be
installed and
therefore this huge variable is
eliminated.
<snip>
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
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From:
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To:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Cryogenics (on
topic)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 08:54:25 -0800
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AFAIK it works great!
We used it on our mini Indy Racer cars
in Tulsa, and the Cryo motor/gearbox
equipped cars run hotter, and
longer.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Åkesson
[mailto:vr4@bahnhof.se]
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 3:18 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Cryogenics (on
topic)
Check this
out!!!!!
http://members.aol.com/fasfwrd/
These guys (FFWD
Connection) say that they can make any metal part 3 times
stronger by
"Cryogenics"
If I understand it right they put the whole part
(gearbox, axle, turbos or
wahatever) in a big "fridge" and slowly
drop the temperature to -340 deg F
until the whole part has that temperature
and then slowly up to 70F and then
they cycle that a few times
(3).
I've heard about Cryo rotors but didn't thought it could be applied
to
shafts and pistons etc. If they can make my transfer case 3 times
stonger
then this is the best since....eh.. the invention of turbos..
:)
Any one tested this? Is this for real or is it a hoax just to rip me
off?
/Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 10 09:05:48 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'3s'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Non-Dampened Crank
Pulley Data
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:07:25 -0800
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Relevent to the
discussion, some tech notes I located concerning Toyota, but
applies overall
to any of our cars.
http://www.supras.com/~riemer/sonictech/tet/
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 09:15:21 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Non-Dampened Crank Pulley Data
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 10:32:12
-0600
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Ummm, your link only brought up an FTP directory with a bunch
of pictures
in it. I didn't see any technical data, unless the pictures
are supposed to
be it. Was this by mistake?
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 09:16:41 1999
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Message-ID: <3829A875.F038165B@gat.com>
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999
09:16:37 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Honey Comb
Straightening
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<003801bf2b3c$f4d38c00$2045e4d8@oemcomputer>
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With all
this talk of folks needing new MAFs because of damaged honeycombs, I
thought
I would share how you can straighten them out. A 16 penny nail does
the
job real nicely. You may have to remove the honeycomb though and
push the nail
through from the back side. Also an Allen wrench might
work well too since it
is hex-shaped. Try this first before spending
any money!
Good luck,
Ken
--
I'm just driving this way to
piss you off!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 09:17:28 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell'"
<benson@2015.com>,
3000GT
Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Non-Dampened Crank Pulley Data
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 09:19:21
-0800
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No..it
wasnt.
Click on them.
-----Original Message-----
From: Benson
"elmagoo" Russell [mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent: Wednesday,
November 10, 1999 8:32 AM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S: Non-Dampened
Crank Pulley Data
Ummm, your link only brought up an FTP
directory with a bunch of pictures
in it. I didn't see any technical
data, unless the pictures are supposed to
be it. Was this by
mistake?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you
ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 10 10:37:19 1999
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From:
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To:
Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 9B and 13G Compressor Housings
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 12:36:32
-0600
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I know that this
has been hashed out before, but....
Are the 9B and 13G Compressor
housings the same?? Will the 13G compressor
wheel fit into the stock 9B
housing??
I know that the some of the 13gs come with the larger
turbine...TD04(stock)
vs. TD04L. Just curious about the
compressor.
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:
612-957-3736 Pager:
612-601-0881
Email:
Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 12:46:00 1999
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From:
"R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<Pine.SOL.3.95.991110023225.1996S-100000@nodserv>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
ARC MAF
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 21:41:48 +0100
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bulk
> YOu still get 345 miles on a tank?
The light just
started to light up (in turns) at about 310 miles.
> (Oh and the
yellow indicator light goes on at 17 gallons, even though
> we have a 20
galon tank right?)
Yes, its a 20 gal tank and I usually drive the car
until about 18-19 gals go
in. I was able to do more than 30 miles with the
reserve and this tells me
that I'm getting again a good mileage.
This
became better with the ARC as we all know that our cars run very rich
even
when cruising. With the ARC it is possible to tune the system for
economy
while cruising and immediaty rich mixture when power is
needed.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<2B6D2E7F9E0AD311AB0500805FB7ECD00F4337@exchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ARC MAF
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 21:44:47 +0100
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bulk
> When you say "no chip installed" are you talking
about the G-force chips?
I
> was under the impression you're still
running your modified ECU along with
> the ARC MAF...not true?
No,
I was talking about the program (stored in the EPROM, also called a
chip) in
the VPC. I have two ECUs at the moment, a stock EU and a a G-Force
with some
programs.
The G-Force programs do not have fuel modifications but the
timing is
altered.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 14:05:19 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'R.G.'"
<robby@freesurf.ch>, team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ARC MAF
Date:
Wed, 10 Nov 1999 14:04:36 -0800
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Roger...
Hmmm, that's not what Robert at G-force tells me. He
says they not only
alter the rev limiter, speed limiter, and timing, but
air/fuel maps as well.
Did you receive the letter I sent? Although I can't
decode the values from
his spreadsheet, the numbers for air/fuel are clearly
different between
stock and the chip set he programmed for my
car.
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From:
R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 12:45
PM
To: team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC MAF
> When you say
"no chip installed" are you talking about the G-force
chips?
I
> was under the impression you're still running your modified
ECU along with
> the ARC MAF...not true?
No, I was talking about
the program (stored in the EPROM, also called a
chip) in the VPC. I have two
ECUs at the moment, a stock EU and a a G-Force
with some programs.
The
G-Force programs do not have fuel modifications but the timing
is
altered.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: ARC MAF
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:10:20 +0100
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bulk
> Hmmm, that's not what Robert at G-force tells me. He says they
not only
> alter the rev limiter, speed limiter, and timing, but air/fuel
maps as
well.
BUT, they will if you tell them to do so ;-) I have the
GT Alley Special
programs that have been made for cars that have an alternate
fuel control
like a VPC or the ARC.
> Did you receive the letter I
sent? Although I can't decode the values from
> his spreadsheet, the
numbers for air/fuel are clearly different between
> stock and the chip
set he programmed for my car.
Yep, I got it tonight and just wanted to
analyze it. Will see how it fits my
tables ;-) I'll let you know
privately.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
"Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
To:
<Muratokcu@aol.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aero downforce
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 16:55:37
-0600
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bulk
>How about stealth? does the aero aids perform any useful
function, like
>downforce? or are they all look and no go? maybe the
designers figured
nobody
>would need them with 55mph speed limit (they
were designing these cars in
>late '80's)
I can't speak for the
stealth, but with help from a neighbor who is a
retired
aerodynamicist, I
calculated that the down force created by my 1995
VR-4 was approximately 158
pounds at 150 mph, (deployed, of course).
So unless you run in some really
fast contests, I doubt you'll notice it's
effect. I have made no
calculations as to the effect of the front air-dam.
In fact, I don't think I
know how.
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
To: "Bob Forrest"
<bf@bobforrest.com>,
<Muratokcu@aol.com>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Aero downforce
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 17:12:59 -0600
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bulk
>>I was hoping to roam the Autobahns with my stealth next
year. Am I
>doomed? >anyone with experience?
I traveled the
German Autobahns for seven years; in my experience,
none of their curves are
tight enough so that you would benefit from
greater downforce, unless you
are doing over 200 mph. This point
is based on my experience with
rental cars which would not exceed
145 mph.
Regards,
ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 17:25:35 1999
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From: "Edwin Kaiming Shaw"
<seawulf@sgi.net>
To: "'Dragnet'"
<stealth@dragnet.com>, "'Dragnet'"
<stealth@gragnet.com>,
"Team3S (E-mail)"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"'Starnet'" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Wheels
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 20:19:19 -0500
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Anyone knwo
where i can find the specs, offset, size et cetera of a 17'
wheel from a 98
3000GT, I want a new set of Focal F5's but I need to know
the specific
offset, and sizing of it all, THanks to all who replies. THe
car is a 1998
3000GT SL with factory 17 inch chrome rims, tire size is
245.45 zr17. Oh yeah
anyone know the differencs in the tire rating say a
Z-Rated versus an
H-Rated. I am thinking about getting the new Scorcher
T/A's but they only
come in H-Rated. Any suggestions?
Edwin
98 Pearlized White 3000GT
SL
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 18:25:46 1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Nov
1999 21:24:35 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero downforce
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Thank you all
for the input.
Cars with poor aerodynamics create a lift at speed,
remember the profile of a
car is a huge aerofoil, capable of great lift.
This lift is responsible for
instability at higher speeds.
Spoilers
in production cars are usually designed for moderate downforce, in
the range
of few 100 lb., Max, because this downforce is gained at the
expense of
significant drag.
>From the responses, I deduct that Stealth T/T is
not known to loose stability
at speed. I am glad to hear that.
For
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 19:31:39 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cryogenics (on
topic)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 22:18:09 -0800
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>an oak tree in a tropical storm. Although the oak may be
considered
>stronger it is also more likely to be toppled than the
bamboo. Up to a
>point the bamboo will bend and return to shape
undamaged. An oak will
>simply break once it has met a certain level
of force.
>
I do remember reading in one of my Hot Rod mags about gears
for drag racing
being different than street gears. To my amazement, I
learned that drag
gears are
actually softer so they can deform under large
shock loads and not break,
while a street
gear is made harder and less
pliable to resist frictional wear. So, harder
may not be the
answer
for pieces that are under torsional stresses.
Sam 95
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 10 21:15:48 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Non-Dampened
Crank Pulley Data
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 1999 23:15:38 -0600
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> Click on
them.
There's some interesting information in those GIF files...
Seems to support what was said by myself and others that removing the harmonic
balancer from the crank is a bad idea. I knew it was already, but this
shows it in graphic format so it is easier to understand the forces
involved. Good info!
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 11 02:57:41 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Edwin Kaiming Shaw"
<seawulf@sgi.net>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Wheels
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 02:55:26 -0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Edwin Kaiming Shaw
<seawulf@sgi.net>
>Anyone know where i can find the specs, offset,
size et cetera of a
17'
>wheel from a 98 3000GT, I want a new set of
Focal F5's but I need
to know
>the specific offset, and sizing of it
all, THanks to all who
replies. THe
>car is a 1998 3000GT SL with
factory 17 inch chrome rims, tire size
is
>245.45 zr17. Oh yeah anyone
know the differencs in the tire rating
say a
>Z-Rated versus an
H-Rated. I am thinking about getting the new
Scorcher
>T/A's but they
only come in H-Rated. Any suggestions?
BIG difference between the
capabilities of H-rated and 150 mph+
Z-rated tires. You can get chapter
and verse on what ratings mean
at Tire Rack, www.tirerack.com . Other
listmembers will help you
with spacings...
Admin Warning: PLEASE
don't cross-post to the Team3S list and other
lists in the same
message! It's against our rules, screws up the
software and causes
bounced messages. Send separate messages to
separate
lists!!!
And anyone hitting 'reply to all' to his message, please
remove
Dragnet's and Starnet's address from the "TO:" line so I
don't have
to eat bounced messages all day...
Thanks.
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Thu Nov 11 04:36:24 1999
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Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 07:35:53 EST
Subject: Team3S: Throttle body wanted
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, stealth@starnet.net
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Anyone with a
Throttle Body 4 sale (VR-4 type) please EMail me ASAP.
Tks
Arty 91
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 11 08:03:26 1999
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Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 11:02:40 EST
Subject: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update...
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I've recently
returned my "new" RPS Carbonite clutch to Rob Smith for an
upggrade.
Rob, has explained to me that he is going to be making a new 4
puck racing
design using the same materials. He will be making the molds
soon and this
design should be able to hold more power. Maybe available in
another month or
so. This is my 3rd clutch upgrade without having any of
them installed. Will
I ever get done?
JFYI
Arty 91 VR-4
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Sam
Shelat'"
<sshelat@erols.com>,
team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Cryogenics (on topic)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 08:30:27 -0800
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It's not that
the part itself is harder..less flexible..but the surface of the
metals in
question are much stronger, and will withstand much higher stress on
the
surface.
Gear faces, brake rotors, pistons/rings/cylinder
walls...etc..all benefit from
this practice.
I dont belive it's meant
to say that it can withstand for torque force
without
breaking.
"If I had $1M" I would like to see the
results of a full cryo-treated
drivetrain, and the drag/loss numbers on it on
a dyno as compared to stock.
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam
Shelat [mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 1999 10:18
PM
To: team3s
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cryogenics (on topic)
>an
oak tree in a tropical storm. Although the oak may be
considered
>stronger it is also more likely to be toppled than the
bamboo. Up to a
>point the bamboo will bend and return to shape
undamaged. An oak will
>simply break once it has met a certain level
of force.
>
I do remember reading in one of my Hot Rod mags about gears
for drag racing
being different than street gears. To my amazement, I
learned that drag
gears are
actually softer so they can deform under large
shock loads and not break,
while a street
gear is made harder and less
pliable to resist frictional wear. So, harder
may not be the
answer
for pieces that are under torsional stresses.
Sam 95
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 11 09:03:11 1999
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Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 12:02:24 EST
Subject: Team3S: Monsters Update - Arty
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In brief, my
car's new engine design concept...
Each 3/3 cylinders are being run as a
separate engine.
Each side having its own intake, fuel, 2 front intercoolers,
turbo, exhaust
etc.
The engine itself is fully race built JE pistons,
Crower rods, Lam cams, new
crank & head. I've gone to a 92mm overbore.
This left enough for one more
cut in the event we blow but gave us the most
strength to run the higher
boost.
Fuel will be provided to lots of HKS
720cc inj by a Whalen pump. I've kept
the
VPC and added the GCC along
with the AIC (all HKS stuff). Wheels are the
Volks TE37's 17x9.5 and will
have Drag Radials not slicks. There is so much
more then I'm able to talk
about yet but its truly a Monster. It will be
ready for
the Season
Opening. And I expect to be at the DSM Shootout next year running
8's and
I'll be proud to haul it to the Gathering.
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 11 12:01:06 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:53:10 -0600
To:
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Dam air
dams
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I was thinking
about removing the 55 lb active aero air dam and motor in
the front, and
adding a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all the way across
the
front.
With the lowered suspension (going in next week), this
oughta just about
hug the ground.
Any opinions on how to do
this? I thought I'd bolt a L-shaped bracket the
full length of the
rubber skirt, and then bolt the bracket to the 2 dozen
or so bolts currently
holding the undercover to the lower valence panel.
Then, I thought
I could cut two 1x8 in. slots into the air dam and run
scoops to the 2-1/2
in. brake ducts.
Anybody ever done this with a 3000GT or any other race
car?
Should I shape it a little so it forms a wedge? Or should it be
straight
across?
I'm thinking that if the hard rubber hits an obstacle, it
will deform but
then snap back. Think this will work? Or should I try a
different material,
such as urethane?
All ideas are welcome. This will
be another winter project.
\
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 11 12:13:36 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To:
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<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dam air dams
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Hey Rich;
Why reinvent the wheel...buy a used lightweight
fixed front dam from a
Stealth and alter
that.
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, November 11, 1999
12:04 PM
Subject: Team3S: Dam air dams
>I was thinking about
removing the 55 lb active aero air dam and motor in
>the front, and adding
a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all the way across
the
>front.
>
>With the lowered suspension (going in next
week), this oughta just about
>hug the ground.
>
>Any opinions
on how to do this? I thought I'd bolt a L-shaped bracket the
>full
length of the rubber skirt, and then bolt the bracket to the 2 dozen
>or
so bolts currently holding the undercover to the lower valence
panel.
>
>Then, I thought I could cut two 1x8 in. slots into the air
dam and run
>scoops to the 2-1/2 in. brake ducts.
>
>Anybody
ever done this with a 3000GT or any other race car?
>Should I shape it a
little so it forms a wedge? Or should it be straight
>across?
>I'm
thinking that if the hard rubber hits an obstacle, it will deform
but
>then snap back. Think this will work? Or should I try a different
material,
>such as urethane?
>
>All ideas are welcome. This
will be another winter project.
>\
>Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 11 13:18:25 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dam air dams
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> I was
thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero air dam and motor in
Huh ?
55lb for the front parts ... no way. I had it off the car (not the
motor)
when I removed the front and it was very light. Where does this wight
figure
come from ??
> With the lowered suspension (going in next
week), this oughta just about
> hug the ground.
If you have the car
lowered but not with stiffer springs than yes, it will.
> I'm thinking
that if the hard rubber hits an obstacle, it will deform but
> then snap
back. Think this will work? Or should I try a different material,
> such
as urethane?
Both will be as heavy as the stock parts ! The only thing
you can do that will
safe weight is to add a lip that adds the same
functionality. It is not
neccessary to have a solid "block" style
air dam as a simple solid hard rubber
lip would work
good.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 11 13:20:48 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Merritt'"
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dam air dams
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:20:22 -0800
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Rich...
You might check JC Whitney's. Years ago I lowered and
built a race
suspension on a German V6 Capri. JC Whitney had a 3"
fiberglass dam with a
3" rubber dam below it, custom made for MANY
different cars. Probably
weighed less than ten pounds. It held up through all
the speed bump and
driveway scrapes, up until the point I shot off the
freeway one morning at
95 mph and took out a highway signpost. The air dam
(and the rest of the
car) didn't survive that (but I did).
:-)
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From:
Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999
11:53 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Dam air
dams
I was thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero air dam and
motor in
the front, and adding a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all the way
across the
front.
Any opinions on how to do this?
<snip>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 11 13:44:40 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, "Merritt"
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dam air dams
Date:
Thu, 11 Nov 1999 13:43:16 -0800
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-----Original
Message-----From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>I was
thinking about removing the 55 lb active aero air dam and
motor in
>the
front, and adding a 2-3 in. hard rubber air dam all the way
across
the
>front.
I like Darcy's idea of using a lightweight Stealth
front end
better... It's probably about the same weight as hard rubber,
too.
But pricey, unless you can get it from a junkyard...
>With the
lowered suspension (going in next week), this oughta just
about
>hug
the ground.
And it'll also insure that you can never go in or out of
a driveway
again without ripping out the front... :-) From what
I've heard,
abut a 1" drop is about all we can handle. Mine is
only 1", and
even I have to go into driveways at an angle, and at a
crawl speed.
I hope you're going to flatbed the car everywhere, since more
than
an inch or so just isn't practical,
IMO.
--------snip----------
>I'm thinking that if the hard rubber
hits an obstacle, it will
deform but
>then snap back. Think this will
work? Or should I try a different
material,
>such as
urethane?
It'll deform every time it hits an obstacle... even
an obstacle
like onrushing air! Over about 60mph, hard rubber is going
to flap
like a rubber band, and it'll probably set up a pretty loud
standing
audio wave while its doing it. As they say, you should be
"humming
right along". LOL! :-) I had one of the
rubber ones on the front
of my GTO (Pontiac) some years back and the noise
wasn't pleasant.
I'm sure they're better quality now, but be
forewarned.
I like your urethane idea a lot better. You might even
be able to
fashion a mold of some kind and use one of the rigid expandable
foam
types (they come in different densities, flexibilities,
weights...).
Even if the dam gets trashed, you can still make another.
One of
the detail shops in my area told me that it would be a lot
cheaper
for them to make a mold and make me a new front end than to buy
the
part from Dodge (~$700). You might want to find a similar shop
in
your area and ask what materials they have available for
'mold-able'
body components.
Sounds like a cool project! Good
luck!
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 11 13:56:29 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh
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To: Team3S
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Subject: Team3S: Front air
dam
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Something to think about...
Has anyone thought about
lengthening the front air dam arms so that the dam
drops down further when
actuated? I thought a 1" extension would work nicely if
the dam is
flexible enough. It would also retract further too, thus you
could
attach a small 1" extension to the dam and it should still retract
to provide
stock clearance.
--
I'm surprised you stopped me
officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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From
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 15:24:02 -0600
To: Chris Winkley
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dam air dams
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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>You might
check JC Whitney's. Years ago I lowered and built a race
>suspension on a
German V6 Capri. JC Whitney had a 3" fiberglass dam with a
>3"
rubber dam below it, custom made for MANY different cars.
Probably
>weighed less than ten pounds.
I've seen those in the
latest catalog. Nothing specific for our cars, but
maybe something could be
adapter.
Might be worth a try.
Thanks
Rioch
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To: robby@swissonline.ch,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dam air
dams
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At 10:17 PM
11/11/99 +0100, R.G. wrote:
>> I was thinking about removing the 55 lb
active aero air dam and motor in
>
>Huh ? 55lb for the front parts
... no way. I had it off the car (not the
motor)
>when I removed the
front and it was very light. Where does this wight figure
>come from
??
I read this on the list a few days back. The motor is the heavy
part,
apparently.
Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Thu Nov 11 14:02:23 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dam
air dams
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 15:13:45 -0600
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>Mine is only 1", and
>even I have to go into
driveways at an angle, and at a crawl speed.
>I hope you're going to
flatbed the car everywhere, since more than
>an inch or so just isn't
practical, IMO.
What kind of springs did you use to lower your car?
I used Eibach springs,
lowered the car by 1.3"'s and I havent' really
had any problems except on
really steep angles (which I avoid :).
Granted I do go slow over some bumps
just to make sure, but the car has much
less tendancy to 'dip' now when
going over bumps and such. I guess
perhaps it's the stiffness of the
springs? But I agree with you on not
going with more than a ~1" drop. From
what I was told if you are
going to go lower than that you pretty much need
a new suspension because the
stock one just can't adjust for it (as in your
alignment on the wheels will
be completely FUBAR'd, and your handling will
be actually worse due to
instability). I've heard that the Tien system is
supposed to be really
good, but it's a bit pricey :(. You can check it out
at
www.gtpro.com
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 11 17:03:45 1999
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Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:04:03
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From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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To: 3000GT / Stealth List
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Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch
Update, my take
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Just thought I'd
share my expierences with the RPS clutch I installed early September.
I was
one of the dozen or so that purchased the "Turbo Clutch Carbon" as
part of a group
purchase (dealt with Matt at Accelerated Accessories).
Since installation, I've run my
car at the track on three different occasions
for a total of 20 runs, ran several hot
laps at the Las Vegas Super Speedway
road course, and ran the Silver State Classic (90
mile race with an average
speed of 125mph).
At first I didn't like the excessive chatter on easy
launches (street driving) but it
has gotten better with time. My track
times suffered greatly my first eight to ten runs
due to horrible launches at
the track with one of them resulting with too many rpms and
a smoked
clutch. The excessive slip on the one run didn't seem to affect the clutch
too
much as it was back to normal on the next run 20 minutes later. The
bad performance was
likely my fault as I just couldn't keep the clutch from
bringing the rpms down (pretty
grabby). Typical 60 foot times were 2.0
- 2.1 seconds. This was disappointing given my
last RPS clutch gave me
many 1.8 second 60 foot times. Finally, with some careful
driving and
perhaps the clutch breaking in, I have been able to launch hard (1.7 to
1.8)
with no slipping. My car is modified with 15G turbos and 550cc
injectors with VPC &
GCC. My best time since the new clutch has
been a 12.236 at 113mph (also my all time
best). I plan on dropping
well into the 11's next year.
The clutch had zero problems at the road
course and Silver State Classic (finished 6th
out of 19 cars in my
class). The aggressive shifting of these events does not tax the
clutch
like the 1/4 mile launches. The brakes gave me many more problems than
the
clutch.
I will be removing the transaxle this winter to replace
the output shaft and maybe
syncros (part of Jack's order) but will be keeping
the clutch. I've beat on it enough
this fall to know I'm happy with
it. Of course, I don't know how long it will last.
The last RPS clutch
lasted considerably longer than the two stock clutchs and two
centerforce
units that were in the car under the previous owner. I'm happy with
RPS
products and will continue to support them.
Joe Gonsowski,
'92
R/T TT
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
> I've recently returned my
"new" RPS Carbonite clutch to Rob Smith for an
>
upggrade.
> Rob, has explained to me that he is going to be making a new 4
puck racing
> design using the same materials. He will be making the molds
soon and this
> design should be able to hold more power. Maybe available
in another month or
> so. This is my 3rd clutch upgrade without having any
of them installed. Will
> I ever get done?
> JFYI
> Arty 91
VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 11 18:32:38 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell"
<benson@2015.com>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Lowering, Eibachs... (was: Dam air dams)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 18:30:19
-0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Benson "elmagoo"
Russell
<benson@2015.com>
>>Forrest wrote:
>>Mine
is only 1", and
>>even I have to go into driveways at an angle,
and at a crawl
speed.
>>I hope you're going to flatbed the car
everywhere, since more than
>>an inch or so just isn't practical,
IMO.
>
>What kind of springs did you use to lower your car? I
used Eibach
springs,
>lowered the car by 1.3"'s and I havent'
really had any problems
except on
>really steep angles (which I avoid
:). Granted I do go slow over
some bumps
>just to make sure, but
the car has much less tendancy to 'dip' now
when
>going over bumps and
such. I guess perhaps it's the stiffness of
the
>springs?
But I agree with you on not going with more than a ~1"
drop.
From
>what I was told if you are going to go lower than that you
pretty
much need
>a new suspension because the stock one just can't
adjust for it (as
in your
>alignment on the wheels will be completely
FUBAR'd, and your
handling will
--------snip--------
Yeah, I
went with the Eibachs, too, and don't get me wrong-- I
couldn't be
happier with them. Cornering, control around road
hazards, even the
unanticipated pothole, are all handled better with
these springs, with much
less plowing, dip, etc... But I can only
go up the slightest inclines
without scraping, so I slow way down.
And it is a fair trade-off, since I'm
spoiled now-- I'd never go
back to the stock springs.
It was an
"Eibach Nightmare" thread (on the list for a week)
sometime before
you joined us. It bears mentioning again for newer
members, but the
Eibachs require some modification when installing
in the rear. As you
say, it's almost impossible to get a correct
alignment, but I got lots of
help from the Team3S guys on the list
who had been through it before.
If anyone is planning on installing
Eibach springs, email privately and I'll
send all the info that
finally helped me (and the dealer) get it
right.
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 11 21:28:23 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my
take
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:27:58 CST
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One of our
"Minnesota 3/S" owners purchased the RPS Turbo Carbon clutch a
few
months ago. It worked fine for awhile. About three weeks ago it
started slipping bad. And it was the "newer" style, ya know
after the
initial problems the group purchase had.
RPS is only
refunding a fraction of the cost of the installation of it too.
Sounds
like a crappy deal to me. Another MN 3/S owner is returning his RPS,
before it gets installed. It makes me happy I bought an ACT
clutch. Thirty
1/4 mile runs and 8,000 miles on it with out any
problems.
If you buy a RPS clutch, buyer
beware....
later,
Curt
>From: Joe Gonsowski
<twinturbo@mediaone.net>
>To: 3000GT / Stealth List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch
Update, my take
>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:04:03
-0800
>
>I will be removing the transaxle this winter to replace
the output shaft
>and maybe
>syncros (part of Jack's order) but
will be keeping the clutch. I've beat
>on it enough
>this
fall to know I'm happy with it. Of course, I don't know how long it
>will last.
>The last RPS clutch lasted considerably longer than
the two stock clutchs
>and two
>centerforce units that were in the
car under the previous owner. I'm happy
>with RPS
>products
and will continue to support them.
>
>Joe Gonsowski,
>'92 R/T
TT
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 11 21:45:21 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell"
<Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch
Update, my take
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:50:40 -0600
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I still have not
installed my "new and improved" RPS clutch... after two
defective
ones I'm a little gun shy...
Also, Rob promised to send me a check to
help "compensate" me for my loss in
time etc.. I never
saw the check, and he also tried to send me a pressure
plate that was
"weaker" than the rest, which was my problem to begin with.
I
have the "normal" pressure plate, but I'm still trying to talk myself
into
trying this clutch out or not.
I'll sell the clutch to someone
for a pretty decent price.. What did the
last group buy go
for?
The RPS clutch seems to be working ~1 our of 3
units.. It sounds like a
crap shoot to me.. at ~400.00 to
install a clutch, it gets real expensive
fast.
Brad
Check out
my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682
-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Curt Gendron
Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 11:28 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my
take
One of our "Minnesota 3/S" owners purchased the RPS Turbo
Carbon clutch a
few months ago. It worked fine for awhile. About
three weeks ago it
started slipping bad. And it was the
"newer" style, ya know after the
initial problems the group
purchase had.
RPS is only refunding a fraction of the cost of the
installation of it too.
Sounds like a crappy deal to me. Another MN 3/S
owner is returning his RPS,
before it gets installed. It makes me happy
I bought an ACT clutch. Thirty
1/4 mile runs and 8,000 miles on it with
out any problems.
If you buy a RPS clutch, buyer
beware....
later,
Curt
>From: Joe Gonsowski
<twinturbo@mediaone.net>
>To: 3000GT / Stealth List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch
Update, my take
>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:04:03
-0800
>
>I will be removing the transaxle this winter to replace
the output shaft
>and maybe
>syncros (part of Jack's order) but will
be keeping the clutch. I've beat
>on it enough
>this fall to
know I'm happy with it. Of course, I don't know how long it
>will
last.
>The last RPS clutch lasted considerably longer than the two stock
clutchs
>and two
>centerforce units that were in the car under the
previous owner. I'm happy
>with RPS
>products and will
continue to support them.
>
>Joe Gonsowski,
>'92 R/T
TT
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 11 23:19:27 1999
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To: "Curt
Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch
Update, my take
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:24:30 -0800
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Hi Curt and all,
Very interesting information I must say. I
have also heard not too good
things about the RPS Clutch. A friend of mine
installed it in his 300zx and
was driving around with it normally after a
month and going just normal
speed when it just blew into bits for no reason.
Friend told me it was made
in Korea actually and that's why it did not last
(no offense to Koreans
though). Even my mechanic thinks otherwise and says
his step son uses the
Centerforce in his 500hp muscle car.
Impressive.
Anyway, I was thinking of getting the Centerforce Clutch, any
input or is
this a redundant question which I should not really ask? Also, I
have always
liked the ACT clutches. The DSM guys over in Seattle use the ACT
clutch and
say it is just excellent. What is your input on
that?
Comparing ther longevity of the Centerforce and ACT clutches, which
one
should I actually get? Let's assume we are using it for both normal
driving
WHEN THE SUN IS OUT and during the Summer drags! :)
Thanks
people.
Julian Ng
94 VR4
Seattle.
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original Message-----
From:
Curt Gendron <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, November 11, 1999 9:29 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update,
my take
>One of our "Minnesota 3/S" owners purchased the
RPS Turbo Carbon clutch a
>few months ago. It worked fine for
awhile. About three weeks ago it
>started slipping bad. And it
was the "newer" style, ya know after the
>initial problems the
group purchase had.
>
>RPS is only refunding a fraction of the cost
of the installation of it too.
>Sounds like a crappy deal to me.
Another MN 3/S owner is returning his
RPS,
>before it gets
installed. It makes me happy I bought an ACT clutch.
Thirty
>1/4
mile runs and 8,000 miles on it with out any problems.
>
>If you buy
a RPS clutch, buyer
beware....
>
>later,
>Curt
>
>>From: Joe
Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
>>To: 3000GT / Stealth List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS
Clutch Update, my take
>>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 20:04:03
-0800
>>
>
>>I will be removing the transaxle this
winter to replace the output shaft
>>and maybe
>>syncros (part
of Jack's order) but will be keeping the clutch. I've beat
>>on
it enough
>>this fall to know I'm happy with it. Of course, I
don't know how long it
>>will last.
>>The last RPS clutch
lasted considerably longer than the two stock clutchs
>>and
two
>>centerforce units that were in the car under the previous
owner. I'm
happy
>>with RPS
>>products and will
continue to support them.
>>
>>Joe Gonsowski,
>>'92
R/T
TT
>>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 12 07:22:55 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:22:46
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> Anyway, I
was thinking of getting the Centerforce Clutch, any
> input or is this a
redundant question which I should not
> really ask? Also, I have
always liked the ACT clutches. The
> DSM guys over in Seattle use the ACT
clutch and say it is
> just excellent. What is your input on
that?
I had both Centerforce and ACT clutches in my '93 Eclipse
GSX.
The Centerforce wouldn't handle the 300 HP I was feeding into
it
after a mere 8,000 miles. It would slip big-time. I didn't
even
have any* 1/4 mile runs on it, just a few autocrosses and
normal daily
driving. I had the flywheel perfectly surfaced
exactly to their specs,
and when I removed the clutch from the
car, there was still plenty of
friction material left on the
disc.
I didn't want to get another
Centerforce, so I got the 2600lb
ACT DSM clutch. It worked flawlessly
from day one until the
day I sold the car. The new owner beats on the
car even more
than I did, and he hasn't had a problem with it, either.
The
engagement was a little rough, but I attribute that to the
higher
clamping force of the pressure plate. I would buy
the 2100lb plate if I
needed a DSM clutch at some point.
> Comparing ther longevity of the
Centerforce and ACT clutches,
> which one should I actually get? Let's
assume we are using it
> for both normal driving WHEN THE SUN IS OUT and
during the
> Summer drags! :)
The longevity on my Centerforce
sucked bad. The ACT is still
working perfectly after 25,000
miles. That's only one data
point, so certainly collect more opinions
than just mine.
When the stock clutch in the Spyder goes south, I'll be
doing
the ACT. I can't risk the crap-shoot with the RPS clutch as
I
hate to pay for labor!
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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take -Reply
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** High Priority
**
I've had the Centerforce clutch on both of my Stealths, and I have
to
say I'm completely satisified...Street drivability is awesome,
little
chatter and near stock pedal pressure. I've done some heavy
launches,
and haven't found the clutch to slip at all. I guess the only thing
I
don't like is that on my current car, it seems like the clutch is
not
fully disengaging...It makes it difficult to go from neutral to
first
or reverse. I doubt that has anything to do with the clutch
itself,
and I plan on getting it adjusted soon...
Dan Jett
94
Stealth TT
Centerforce
K/N FIPK
Greddy exhaust (soon to be
Borla)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:36:54
-0600
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Questions
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Gentlemen:
I continue to have oddities with my stock
clutch. This includes pedal
pressure and total
disengagement. To reiterate, I'm on my third
pressure plate and
throw out bearing. My local dealer, whom I have a
tremendous
relationship with, changed them under warrantee. Many in the
group have
felt that this is a pressure problem, the system needs to be
bleed,
etc. This has been done but to no avail. I also feel what
I
would call a notch halfway through the travel of the pedal. The
dealer
has indicated that perhaps the output shaft is worn and the car may
need
a new tranny someday. Perhaps. I was wondering about the
idea of
changing the PP and TOB to an aftermarket brand. The stock
clutch seems
to hold just fine. And I don't like the idea of not being
smooth whence
I drive the car. The only problem I have encountered is
the inconsistent
feel of the clutch, which at times makes the car act like
I've never
driven a clutch before (Barry, be nice). The tranny also
feels fine, for
the most part not changing in feel since I purchased the car
2 1/2 years
ago. The changing of the fluid to GM SynchroMesh did help
reduce the
notchy-ness some, but for the most part, it feels fine.
Besides that,
the only other problem I've encountered has been the rear end
getting
loose since I installed the BC (the tires are about halfway through
there
life at most). Any feed back would be most
appreciated.
Thanks,
Scott
'92 VR4
116K
HKS Dual Mega
Flow
APEXi
AVC-R
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my take -Reply
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:46:02
-0600
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> I've had
the Centerforce clutch on both of my Stealths, and I have to
> say I'm
completely satisified...Street drivability is awesome, little
> chatter
and near stock pedal pressure. I've done some heavy launches,
> and
haven't found the clutch to slip at all. I guess the only thing I
> don't
like is that on my current car, it seems like the clutch is not
> fully
disengaging...It makes it difficult to go from neutral to first
> or
reverse. I doubt that has anything to do with the clutch itself,
> and I
plan on getting it adjusted soon...
Yeah, my DSM Centerforce also
disengaged poorly. There's an adjustment rod on the pedal assembly, but
even with it all the way adjusted it still wasn't great. Their quality
seems to be a little on the "variable" side, where I haven't heard any
complaints at all on the ACT.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 12 09:25:00 1999
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From:
"Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: A different kind of
performance option
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 12:23:49 -0500
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My apologies if
this is not relevant enough...
Recently someone brought up replacing the
side mirrors on the stealth list
w/a CCD. Might be an interesting idea if
those stock mirrors really do drag
as bad as some people have said on the
"lists". I guess what i'm wondering
is, does anybody know how much
those mirrors really add?
The point was also made that each replacement
mirror costs ~$125 each and a
complete closed circuit camera system was about
$500. I think we could do
even better than that - $50 wires, 2 $75 pinhole
cameras, $100 6" active
matrix screen from eio.com = $300 + labor. Of
course, this is w/out any
nicely fabricated holder for the
camera...
Benefits:
- neat :)
- less drag
- less chance to get
knocked off (problem in my DC area)
- possibly expanded/better vision (maybe
kill our blind spot?)
- possibly better placement to view sides so as to keep
eyes more centered
on the road
- possibly better & or complete night
vision (most CCDs can already see
infrared, and an infrared light on each
side is cheap)
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 11:32:38 -0600
To:
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: A different kind of
performance option
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>
>Recently someone brought up replacing the side mirrors
on the stealth list
>w/a CCD.
The new Cadillac DeVille has an
infrared night vision camera mounted up
front, and projects the image onto a
heads-up screen at the bottom of the
windshield. Seems like the same
technology would work for side mirrors. If
you pointed the camera backward,
of course.
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
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From: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my
take
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 13:46:11 CST
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One thing I'd
like to point out here. The reason Matt and I support ACT so
much is
not just the fact that we "heard" good things about them. We
both
have our noses in the DSM community, so we know what has worked well
for
them. And as much as you may think that the DSM is a different
car, it has
so many things in common with the 3/S, that it is
scary.
If you truly want to learn more about the 3/S and you've read
every website
out there, start checking out the DSM community. They
are way ahead of us
in learning what makes there cars fast. The two
easiest mod decsions I had
to make were the ACT clutch and the 1G DSM
BOV.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>From: Matt
Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update, my
take -Reply
>Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:46:02 -0600
>Yeah, my DSM
Centerforce also disengaged poorly. There's an adjustment rod
>on
the pedal assembly, but even with it all the way adjusted it still
>wasn't great. Their quality seems to be a little on the
"variable" side,
>where I haven't heard any complaints at all
on the ACT.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 12 14:49:28 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dam
air dams
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:06:53 -0600
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bulk
>and your handling will
>be actually worse due to
instability).
>For the uninformed, please describe the
instability
>you mentioned.
>Regards,
>ptg
I meant the
instability that comes from having a bad alignment job. It's
like
trying to do high-speed driving (speeds over 100 mph) with unbalanced
wheels,
your car will feel very unstable as if it can't make up it's mind as
to which
way is straight. I had this problem in my last car when my wheels
went
out of alignment (it was a '94 Eclipse GS). I was driving down to
a
friends 2 hours south of me on the high-way, attempting to do about 100,
but
the car just wouldn't drive stable, it kept wobbling back and forth
and
required a lot of attention at the wheel to keep evening it out. I
made the
same trip a few months later after having an alignment done, was
doing about
120 with no problems :).
I've also experienced it a bit in
my 3000 when I was forced to drive on the
doughnut for like 6 days while
waiting for my new tires to arrive. This
totally screwed up my
alignment. When I put the new tires on, I was driving
with the steering
wheel at about a 30 degree angle just to go straight, and
the car would misc.
pull to the side when going above like 50 mph. Not a
very fun condition
to drive with :).
Latuh fuh
U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 12 14:50:34 1999
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From: "Benson
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To: "3000GT
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Subject: Team3S:
oops,
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:08:10 -0600
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bulk
Sorry about that all, I didn't realize that the question I was
responding to
was a private send, not a list send. my dumb
:(.
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you
ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To:
<sjc0u812@juno.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch Questions
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 15:55:47
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>This has been done but to no avail. I also feel what
I
>would call a notch halfway through the travel of the pedal. The
dealer
>has indicated that perhaps the output shaft is worn and the car
may need
>a new tranny someday.
U must be kidding me...NOOO! Please
tell me this is not true....I have this
same problem right now with my stock
clutch and attributed it to a clutch
going bad and thus my current questions
on which clutch to get next. Funny
thing is that I just got a rebuilt tranny
(paid for by my insurance
company - no fraud here - ) about a year ago. It
cannot be that. This is
beginning to worry me. Any thoughts people?
I
suudenly feel giddy :) I don't have the aftermarket warranty
anymore...if
this true I am screwed man...I will have to pay it out
myself.
Julian Ng
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: sjc0u812@juno.com <sjc0u812@juno.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, November 12, 1999 7:45 AM
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
Questions
>Gentlemen:
>
>I continue to have oddities
with my stock clutch. This includes pedal
>pressure and total
disengagement. To reiterate, I'm on my third
>pressure plate
and throw out bearing. My local dealer, whom I have a
>tremendous
relationship with, changed them under warrantee. Many in the
>group
have felt that this is a pressure problem, the system needs to be
>bleed,
etc. This has been done but to no avail. I also feel what
I
>would call a notch halfway through the travel of the pedal. The
dealer
>has indicated that perhaps the output shaft is worn and the car
may need
>a new tranny someday. Perhaps. I was wondering about
the idea of
>changing the PP and TOB to an aftermarket brand. The
stock clutch seems
>to hold just fine. And I don't like the idea of
not being smooth whence
>I drive the car. The only problem I have
encountered is the inconsistent
>feel of the clutch, which at times makes
the car act like I've never
>driven a clutch before (Barry, be
nice). The tranny also feels fine, for
>the most part not changing
in feel since I purchased the car 2 1/2 years
>ago. The changing of
the fluid to GM SynchroMesh did help reduce the
>notchy-ness some, but for
the most part, it feels fine. Besides that,
>the only other problem
I've encountered has been the rear end getting
>loose since I installed
the BC (the tires are about halfway through there
>life at
most). Any feed back would be most
appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Scott
>'92
VR4
>116K
>HKS Dual Mega Flow
>APEXi
AVC-R
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get
the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and
free Internet access for a month!
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>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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From:
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Thanks everybody for
the input about clutches...
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:14:55
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Very helpful feedback from all of you about the clutch
issue.
Based on everyone's opinion, the ACT and Centerforce clutch seems
to be =
good for the 3/S cars. However, I have always believed that our stock
=
clutch is equally strong and can withstand quite a few high rpm dumps at
=
the drag strip (of course letting it cool down a little after each run).
=
My concern is that if we had upgraded turbos, let say the most talked
=
about 15g, will the stock clutch actually hold the high rpm dump? I
=
would not mind if the stock clutch lasted only a summer; my fear is that
=
it might blow after 4 hard launches on a summer day becos of the extreme
=
pressure from the bigger turbos.
I am also worried about my current
clutch as I am experiencing the same =
problem as Scott. " I also feel
what I would call a notch halfway =
through the travel of the pedal." I
hope I don't need a new transmission =
anytime soon..that always scares the
heck out of me. But I just had a =
rebuilt tranny put in and from info I have
read in the past, the second =
gens have a stronger transmission than those
of the first gens. The =
first gens biggest problem was the transmission and
the active aero =
which continually gives problems. The active aero problem
is familiar to =
me as I had a first gen before but never really encountered
any problems =
with my transmission. Is this just babble with no truth in
it?
Nevertheless, thanks everyone for the information...I appreciate the
=
help!! :)
Hmm.. I will have to call my mechanic now since he is
still open...
=20
Julian Ng
94
GTO
gtovr4@postalzone.com
------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01BF2D29.0F166C20
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text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic
Sans MS" size=3D2>Very helpful =
feedback from=20
all of you about
the clutch issue.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Based on everyone's opinion,
=
the ACT and=20
Centerforce clutch seems to be good for the 3/S cars.
However, I have =
always=20
believed that our stock clutch is equally
strong and can withstand quite =
a few=20
high rpm dumps at the drag strip
(of course letting it cool down a =
little after=20
each run). My concern
is that if we had upgraded turbos, let say the =
most talked=20
about 15g,
will the stock clutch actually hold the high rpm dump? I =
would
not=20
mind if the stock clutch lasted only a summer; my fear is that it
might =
blow=20
after 4 hard launches on a summer day becos of the extreme
pressure from =
the=20
bigger
turbos.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans
MS" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>I am also worried about my
=
current clutch=20
as I am experiencing the same problem as Scott.
" I also feel what =
I would=20
call a notch halfway through the
travel of the pedal." I hope I =
don't need=20
a new transmission
anytime soon..that always scares the heck out of me. =
But I=20
just had a
rebuilt tranny put in and from info I have read in the past,
=
the=20
second gens have a stronger transmission than those of the first
gens. =
The first=20
gens biggest problem was the transmission and the
active aero which =
continually=20
gives problems. The active aero problem
is familiar to me as I had a =
first gen=20
before but never really
encountered any problems with my transmission. =
Is this=20
just babble
with no truth in it?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Nevertheless,
=
thanks=20
everyone for the information...I appreciate the help!!
:)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans
MS" size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Hmm.. I will have to call my
=
mechanic now=20
since he is still
open...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans
MS" size=3D2> </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>Julian
=
Ng</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>94
GTO<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:gtovr4@postalzone.com">gtovr4@postalzone.com</A><BR></FONT=
></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01BF2D29.0F166C20--
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 12 16:15:47 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'3000gtvr4'" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thanks everybody for the
input about clutches...
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:17:46
-0800
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I think the
stock clutch/plate is good enough to hold 15gs, BUT the real
question is can
the stock clutch hold the force of high RPM dumps.
Yes, if done
right.
They will not suffer much slipping caused by bad dumps as the
turbos come alive.
Thats just life.
I have an RPS Turbo Clutch in my
MK3 supra..and love it.
I had an ACT in our 92 TT Stealth, loved
it.
MANY Supra owners have had multiple CF clutches, N/A and Turbo
owners...all
sucked.
-----Original Message-----
From: 3000gtvr4
[mailto:gtovr4@postalzone.com]
Sent: Friday, November 12, 1999 4:15 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Thanks everybody for the
input about clutches...
Very helpful feedback from all of you about
the clutch issue.
Based on everyone's opinion, the ACT and Centerforce
clutch seems to be good for
the 3/S cars. However, I have always believed
that our stock clutch is equally
strong and can withstand quite a few high
rpm dumps at the drag strip (of course
letting it cool down a little after
each run). My concern is that if we had
upgraded turbos, let say the most
talked about 15g, will the stock clutch
actually hold the high rpm dump? I
would not mind if the stock clutch lasted
only a summer; my fear is that it
might blow after 4 hard launches on a summer
day becos of the extreme
pressure from the bigger turbos.
I am also worried about my current
clutch as I am experiencing the same problem
as Scott. " I also feel
what I would call a notch halfway through the travel of
the pedal." I
hope I don't need a new transmission anytime soon..that always
scares the
heck out of me. But I just had a rebuilt tranny put in and from info
I have
read in the past, the second gens have a stronger transmission than those
of
the first gens. The first gens biggest problem was the transmission and
the
active aero which continually gives problems. The active aero problem
is
familiar to me as I had a first gen before but never really encountered
any
problems with my transmission. Is this just babble with no truth in
it?
Nevertheless, thanks everyone for the information...I appreciate the
help!! :)
Hmm.. I will have to call my mechanic now since he is still
open...
Julian Ng
94 GTO
gtovr4@postalzone.com
<mailto:gtovr4@postalzone.com>
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 12 17:49:32 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "3000gtvr4"
<gtovr4@postalzone.com>,
<sjc0u812@juno.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Questions
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 17:47:11 -0800
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Julian, Scott ,et al;
The notchiness thus far described
sounds like a clutch problem and not a
tranny problem. The latter is the
boogie man of the 3S world and we are
always listening for his
footsteps>> almost to the degree of hysteria. I
should
think the tranny symptoms would not be described as notchy clutch
pedal
movement..or if they were so described, it would also be readily
evident in
the feel of the shift lever while you were holding it. Thus far
the
"feel" seems to be described in the pedal and not the shifter.
So,
possibly (and this is a guess) there is a "half wit" problem
with some
installers, and things are not assembled or aligned quite right:
TOB's not
quite put in right (is there (?) a back and front, etc). It may be
a simple
prob that is easily replicated to the side of error by those not
totally
familiar with the setup. Again a guess...but I would suspect that
this does
not occur where someone has done a dozen of these
installations
successfully. Often times our cars are simply on the job
training, and we
are charged for it (Geez, a 3S!! I've never worked on
one of them before).
Best
Darc
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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From: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you
kidding me?
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 23:07:20 CST
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If your just
going to drive your 3/S around, a stock clutch is fine. But if
you
start drag racing, there is no way a stock clutch will hold up. Here
are my examples.
I started drag racing about 13 months ago.
After one day at the track and
many G-tech runs my stock clutch (95 R/T TT)
went south with about 35,000
miles on it. I now have an ACT clutch,
that holds like glue.
Mark has a 91 R/T TT, he started drag racing this
Spring. After one trip to
the track and many G-tech runs, his stock
clutch went south. He now has the
RPS Carbon claw and it appears to be
holding up.
Francis has a 96 R/T TT, after one or two trips to the track
his stock
clutch started slipping. He bought the RPS clutch, and now
that is
slipping. He only had about 25,000 miles on the stock
clutch.
John has a 95 R/T TT and after one trip to the track and a lot of
G-tech
runs, his stock clutch started slipping. He has since replaced
it with
another stock clutch. (Don't ask why)
Oskar has a 95
R/T TT. He is the luckiest one. He has made 5 trips to the
track
on the stock clutch. It comes and goes. Sometimes it holds up and
sometimes it slips really bad. He'll be putting in an aftermarket
clutch
this winter. (hopefully an ACT)
You learn a lot at
"Minnesota
3/S"
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you kidding me?
To:
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I've been
following this thread for awhile now; In addition to what Curt
stated, I
just wanted you all to know about my experience with my '92 VR4
that I
purchased in August of 1996:
When I received a new tranny in June of 1998
at 59,957 miles; I asked the
dealership to replace my clutch as well with an
OEM/factory clutch; the
mechanic told me that my '92 VR4 with 59,957 miles
had the ORIGINAL clutch; I
was surprised to hear that since I had taken at
least 12 HARD launches on
this original clutch!! And who knows how
hard the previous owner was on the
clutch. My car was bone stock at
the time. Mind you, the clutch never gave
me any problems but I
figured might as well replace with a new one at the
time of the tranny
replacement.
I have now put 24,800 miles on my car since that date on my
new tranny &
clutch; with all my mods and at least 30 Hard Launches
(several 1.7 - 1.8
60ft. times); the factory/OEM clutch STILL feels
strong!!!! (I hope I didn't
jinx myself). But the point I'm
trying to make is that it all depends on how
you launch and how much abuse
you inflict on your car.
But if my current factory/OEM
clutch fails....I may need a stronger clutch
soon?? Maybe ACT?
Centerforce? or back to OEM??? My experience with
factory/OEM
has been excellent!!!!!! But I'm planning on having over 500
Horsepower fairly soon...so I think ACT or Centerforce would be a wise
decision for me when this current OEM clutch fails.
See you all at
the races!!! (for now...I'm only spectating) - Still NO BOOST
:-(
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
In a message dated
11/12/99 11:11:01 PM Central Standard Time,
curt_gendron@hotmail.com
writes:
<< If your just going to drive your 3/S around, a stock
clutch is fine. But
if
you start drag racing, there is no way a
stock clutch will hold up. Here
are my examples.
I started drag
racing about 13 months ago. After one day at the track and
many G-tech
runs my stock clutch (95 R/T TT) went south with about 35,000
miles on
it. I now have an ACT clutch, that holds like glue.
Mark has a 91
R/T TT, he started drag racing this Spring. After one trip to
the
track and many G-tech runs, his stock clutch went south. He now has the
RPS Carbon claw and it appears to be holding up.
Francis has a 96 R/T
TT, after one or two trips to the track his stock
clutch started
slipping. He bought the RPS clutch, and now that is
slipping. He
only had about 25,000 miles on the stock clutch.
John has a 95 R/T TT and
after one trip to the track and a lot of G-tech
runs, his stock clutch
started slipping. He has since replaced it with
another stock
clutch. (Don't ask why)
Oskar has a 95 R/T TT. He is the
luckiest one. He has made 5 trips to the
track on the stock
clutch. It comes and goes. Sometimes it holds up and
sometimes
it slips really bad. He'll be putting in an aftermarket clutch
this
winter. (hopefully an ACT)
You learn a lot at "Minnesota
3/S"
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org >>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 13 07:32:10 1999
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From:
"Owens, Trent L." <Trent.Owens@destia.com>
To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Thanks\Warning\AVC-R\Invitation :)
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 09:32:03
-0600
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I would like to
thank everyone for helping me getting this problem taken
care of. With
the help of Jeff and some hints from the rest I was able to
pull the codes
off the ECU and figure out that the problem was one wire
going to the #6
cylinder injector. It was very hard to see considering it
was only out
less than 1/8 of an inch.
Here is a warning to all you guys that are
thinking about changing your
plugs/wires or doing some sort of
repair/upgrade. Make sure you remove the
bracket on the left side of
the intake plenum that holds the 3 electrical
connectors before you pull up
on the plenum. If you only unplug the
connectors you will pull the
wires out of the #6 injector. Its not that
hard to fix.... Its
just a hassle trying to figure out what the problem is
and removing
everything again!
As for the new AVC-R, this thing is awesome and
well worth the $375 I paid
for it! I have it set to .95 bar (to be
slightly on the safe side)with a
duty cycle of 46. It will peak around
1 to 1.01 bar and for the most part
it will hold very steady at .95
bar. This weekend I am going to tinker with
the RPM specific boost
control and see if I like that better.
I just bought my (dream) car a
couple weeks ago so baring the NGK's, AVC-R,
and RPS Turbo Clutch, of which
holds beautifully and I have had zero
problems with, I am bone stock.
However that wont last for long! I have a
FMIC in the mail and have
started to design the system the way I want it.
ETA on the installation will
be over the Christmas holidays. (I will keep
you posted and take lots of
pics!) Other mods will be an Eclipse K&N FIPK,
a custom exhaust and
later, water injection. (Get ready for the questions
John! ;) )
I have
been lurking for almost a year and now that I have my baby....Its
time to get
dirty! I am in the College Station, TX area and have seen a
couple of
3/s's around. If you are in the area and would like to get
together
e-mail me privately. I know a couple of you drive in from Houston
and
race at the speedway. I would love to come hang out, watch and
after
some experience start racing too! So you guys let me
know...... Now, lets
get these babies rolling!
Its good to be
aboard!
Sincerely,
Trent Owens
'95 RT TT
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 13 09:01:17 1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Thanks\Warning\AVC-R\Invitation :)
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> the problem was one wire
> going to the #6 cylinder
injector. It was very hard to see considering it
> was only out less
than 1/8 of an inch.
Good you found it :-)
> FMIC in the mail
and have started to design the system the way I want it.
> ETA on the
installation will be over the Christmas holidays. (I will keep
> you
posted and take lots of pics!) Other mods will be an Eclipse
K&N
FIPK,
> a custom exhaust and later, water injection. (Get ready
for the questions
> John! ;) )
I don't want to sound negative but I
miss the upgrade stages or better said
the path you are going. I don't see
anything about fuel and I just wonder
what a FMIC will help with the stock
turbos and possible stock IC piping. As
you design the system (?) the way you
want it I wonder what way you go. Let
us know.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 13 09:20:50 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are
you kidding me?
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 09:22:11 -0800
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That's
odd.
Weve been heavilly autoxing out 95TT for a year, and literally every
single
weekend this season since March.
Two drivers each weekend (wife
and I), most weekends the car gets 8 hard
dragstyle launches, and some
weekends on divisional events 16 of the same
(including lots of WOT
shifts).
Weve also dragraced on the weekends we had nothing beter to do
(since we moved
to CA).
Clutch feels fine.
Theres a fine
line the driver has to walk between too much, and bogging at the
line.
It CAN be found.
:-----Original Message-----
:From: Curt Gendron
[mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
:Sent: Friday, November 12, 1999 9:07
PM
:To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
:Subject: Team3S: Stock clutch??
Are you kidding me?
:
:
:If your just going to drive your 3/S around, a
stock clutch is
:fine. But if
:you start drag racing, there is no
way a stock clutch will
:hold up. Here
:are my
examples.
:
:I started drag racing about 13 months ago. After one
day at
:the track and
:many G-tech runs my stock clutch (95 R/T TT) went
south with
:about 35,000
:miles on it. I now have an ACT clutch,
that holds like glue.
:
:Mark has a 91 R/T TT, he started drag racing this
Spring.
:After one trip to
:the track and many G-tech runs, his
stock clutch went south.
:He now has the
:RPS Carbon claw and it
appears to be holding up.
:
:Francis has a 96 R/T TT, after one or two
trips to the track his stock
:clutch started slipping. He bought the
RPS clutch, and now that is
:slipping. He only had about 25,000 miles
on the stock clutch.
:
:John has a 95 R/T TT and after one trip to the
track and a lot
:of G-tech
:runs, his stock clutch started
slipping. He has since
:replaced it with
:another stock
clutch. (Don't ask why)
:
:Oskar has a 95 R/T TT. He is the
luckiest one. He has made 5
:trips to the
:track on the stock
clutch. It comes and goes. Sometimes it
:holds up and
:sometimes it slips really bad. He'll be putting in an
:aftermarket clutch
:this winter. (hopefully an ACT)
:
:You learn
a lot at "Minnesota
3/S"
:
:Curt
:http://www.mn3s.org
:
:
:______________________________________________________
:Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
:For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
:http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
:
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 13 09:41:58 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock
clutch?? Are you kidding me?
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 10:42:45
-0700
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Jeff makes the
point I held back from making when I first saw this clutch
thread
emerge. Furthermore, he is not alone. Most people with
stock
clutches and successful racing in their VR4s actually have had good
luck
with the stock setup and mild mods.
Several failed clutches is
not necessarily indicative of a poor quality
clutch. Virtually ANY
clucth can be destroyed in a matter of moments with
incorrect
use.
Unless the drivers mentioned in the previous thread are seeing
1.6-1.7 60'
times consistently they are likely not using the clutch correctly
for this
car. Most people tend to slip the clutch more than necessary
because it can
be tricky to launch a car like the VR4 which tends to hook up
very well.
Contrary to what some may think, you actually want some degree of
wheelspin
off the line for an optimum launch. People bogging off the
line tend to
slip the clutch to get the car motivated and keep the engine in
the sweet
rev range, which translates to accelerated wear if not immediate
failure.
My stock clutch saw over 47,000 miles of hard street use
including countless
G-Tech and impromptu drag runs before it started to
slip. When it came out
it was actually in very good condition other
than expected wear. I have
been through no less than 3 after-market
clutches for various reasons since
the stock one.
The stock clutch
works great for mild mods and only becomes inadequate once
significantly more
power is squeezed out of the stock mill. Mine didn't
start slipping
until after 15Gs and all the other associated mods.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> That's odd.
>
> Weve been
heavilly autoxing out 95TT for a year, and literally
> every
single
> weekend this season since March.
>
> Two drivers each
weekend (wife and I), most weekends the car gets 8 hard
> dragstyle
launches, and some weekends on divisional events 16 of the same
>
(including lots of WOT shifts).
>
> Weve also dragraced on the
weekends we had nothing beter to do
> (since we moved
> to
CA).
>
>
> Clutch feels fine.
>
> Theres a fine
line the driver has to walk between too much, and
> bogging at the
>
line. It CAN be found.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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From:
"Owens, Trent L." <Trent.Owens@destia.com>
To:
"'R.G.'"
<robby@freesurf.ch>,
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thanks\Warning\AVC-R\Invitation :)
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999
11:54:25 -0600
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>
FMIC in the mail and have started to design the system the way I want
it.
> ETA on the installation will be over the Christmas holidays. (I will
keep
> you posted and take lots of pics!) Other mods will be an
Eclipse K&N
FIPK,
> a custom exhaust and later, water injection.
(Get ready for the questions
> John! ;) )
I don't want to sound
negative but I miss the upgrade stages or better said
the path you are going.
I don't see anything about fuel and I just wonder
what a FMIC will help with
the stock turbos and possible stock IC piping. As
you design the system (?)
the way you want it I wonder what way you go. Let
us
know.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
Sorry about that!
Your right! The FMIC core is much bigger than the stock IC's and
will help
(somewhat but not that much) with the stock turbos. However I
plan on
upgrading to 15G or (more than likely) larger turbos. Fuel
upgrade is a
MUST and a given! I didnt include it with my last post
cause it had so much
other information in it I didnt want it to get to
long. However, I plan on
doing a custom fuel delivery system (pump
-> rail) with a highflow filter
and possibly a Supra pump.....
However Im not quite sure at this point what
pump I will run. As far as
injectors Im thinking of going with the
"dumpers" 720cc and
controlling them with the SplitSecond ARC2-GP. I WILL
NOT increase the
boost until I know forsure Im in the safe. That is why Im
not running
at the 1.05 bar limit right now. These mods cost enough as it
is!
I dont have the $$$ to rebuild the engine unexpectedly! However,
a
rebuild (stronger bottom end and higher flowing top end) is in the
long-term
plan too! ;)
As for the path I am going to
take....
1. K&N FIPK
2. Custom Exhaust
3.
FMIC
4. Fuel system upgrade (pump and custom delivery)
5.
Water Injection
6. SplitSecond w/720's
7. Turbos
Thats
as far as I want say right now...... The plans could change
according
to things we find out here in 3/s land!
I am an senior
electronics engineering major at Texas A&M University... I
have test labs
and all kinds of neat stuff at my disposal..... I would like
to start
working on a circuit to monitor knock without destroying the
sensor. I
know John Basol had worked with that before and I was hoping to
discuss his
findings a little more, although I havent asked him yet. If you
have
any info on this please e-mail me so we can start monitoring this
deadly
force!
Trent Owens
'95 RT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 13 10:44:07 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock
clutch?? Are you kidding me?
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 10:42:36
-0800
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-----Original Message-----From:
TurboDrvn@aol.com
<TurboDrvn@aol.com>
-------snip-------
>When
I received a new tranny in June of 1998 at 59,957 miles; I
asked
the
>dealership to replace my clutch as well with an OEM/factory
clutch;
the
>mechanic told me that my '92 VR4 with 59,957 miles had the
ORIGINAL
clutch; I
>was surprised to hear that since I had taken at
least 12 HARD
launches on
>this original clutch!! And who knows
how hard the previous owner
was on the
>clutch. My car was bone
stock at the time. Mind you, the clutch
never gave
>me any
problems but I figured might as well replace with a new one
at
the
>time of the tranny replacement.
It bears repeating, (so folks
don't get the wrong idea when a
negative opinion comes along), that most
experiences with the stock
clutch are positive. It's been said before
on this (and other)
lists by *very* experienced drivers-- the stock clutch is
excellent!
Many owners have been amazed with how long it lasts and how well
it
grips... including many who regularly race their cars with
the
stock clutch with no problem.
>I have now put 24,800 miles on
my car since that date on my new
tranny &
>clutch; with all my mods
and at least 30 Hard Launches (several
1.7 - 1.8
>60ft. times); the
factory/OEM clutch STILL feels strong!!!! (I
hope I didn't
>jinx
myself). But the point I'm trying to make is that it all
depends on
how
>you launch and how much abuse you inflict on your car.
That's
the point that *needs* to be made-- if you launch poorly, any
clutch will
suffer, as will other components. If you pop the clutch
at 6500 when
the staging lights go green, the stock clutch probably
won't last very
long. Similarly, if you do something stupid, like
slipping it while
driving uphill at low speed, you can polish the
surface into oblivion in an
afternoon. I know, since I tried
*backing* slowly UP a 30-degree
incline, a rocky, 1/2 mile long
country driveway, (around obstacles that
barely cleared my bumpers)
and I toasted mine in under an
hour!!!
>But if my current factory/OEM clutch fails....I may need a
stronger
clutch
>soon?? Maybe ACT? Centerforce? or
back to OEM??? My experience
with
>factory/OEM has been
excellent!!!!!! But I'm planning on having
over 500
>Horsepower
fairly soon...so I think ACT or Centerforce would be a
wise
>decision
for me when this current OEM clutch fails.
That's been the consensus in
the past-- if you do modify your car
past the 500 HP level, that's when
you should be looking at a clutch
with a bit more hold. But you won't
be as happy with those clutches
for driving in traffic; lots of chatter and
the occasional
embarrasing lurch at 3 MPH during rush hour...
I put in
the RPS Carbon Claw (not the RPS Turbo Carbon) and it's
great (no problems in
6,000 miles), but since I race so
infrequently, if I ever need to replace it,
I'll probably go back to
the stock
clutch.
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 13 16:23:21 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you
kidding me?
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 18:22:56 CST
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I agree that a
poorly used stock clutch will wear faster. But that is part
of the
reason of buying a good aftermarket clutch. Now matter how good of a
1/4 mile driver your are, you will make mistakes and burn the clutch once in
a while. Or even during normal driving, there may be a need to slip
the
clutch, on purpose or accident. A good aftermarket clutch will be
more
forgiving.
My view on stock clutches is based on my first hand
experiences. We have 6
"Minnesota 3/S" members that do drag
strip racing on occasion. Four of us
have replaced clutches in the
last eight months. Another person is about
too. The sixth person
has only had his car for four months.
IMO, if you have a lot of miles on
a stock clutch, your either drive your
car perfectly or you haven't pushed
it to its limits
enough.
later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
>From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Reply-To:
<beking@home.com>
>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock
clutch?? Are you kidding me?
>Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 10:42:45
-0700
>
>Jeff makes the point I held back from making when I first
saw this clutch
>thread emerge. Furthermore, he is not alone.
Most people with stock
>clutches and successful racing in their VR4s
actually have had good luck
>with the stock setup and mild
mods.
>
>Several failed clutches is not necessarily indicative of a
poor quality
>clutch. Virtually ANY clucth can be destroyed in a
matter of moments with
>incorrect
use.
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 13 16:33:16 1999
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From: Klusmanp@aol.com
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Date: Sat, 13
Nov 1999 19:32:44 EST
Subject: Team3S: bent rim repair
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Got some new
tires today. I drove up to Tire Rack HQ in South Bend, IN to
have them
install some Dunlop SP9000s on my '91 VR4. I've been having a
vibration
problem I can't get rid of, so I was interested in having Tire Rack
"match" the tires to the rims (position the tire on the rim so the
low spot
on the rim matches the high spot on the tire - gives an overall
more round
rim/tire combo).
They found two rims bent pretty badly
(.08 runout on the worst one) - you
could see the wobble as the rim/tire
spun on the test machine. They mounted
the two bent rims on the rear, and
the car drives pretty much glass smooth...
for now.
I was told that
running the new tires on bent rims will cause the tires to go
out of round,
so I'm interested in having the rims repaired before this
happens. It
shouldn't be too difficult, just build up some weld on the low
spots where
the tire bead sits, mount the rim on a lathe, and turn it back
true again.
Yes, I realize this will cause the rim to be unbalanced. No big
deal, just
have to put more weights on the rim to get everything balanced.
Anybody
know of a good shop that can do this sort of rim
repair?
Thanks
Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 13 16:51:32 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Curt Gendron"
<curt_gendron@hotmail.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock clutch??
Are you kidding me?
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 16:49:34 -0800
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Curt
You responded to Barry's post with the
following:
>My view on stock clutches is based on my first hand
experiences. We have 6
>"Minnesota 3/S" members that do
drag strip racing on occasion. Four of us
>have replaced clutches in
the last eight months. Another person is about
>too. The sixth
person has only had his car for four months.
>IMO, if you have a lot
of miles on a stock clutch, your either drive your
>car perfectly or you
haven't pushed it to its limits enough.
>
While opinions are
held by everyone, they can in fact become close to
affronting if not managed
properly. My experience with Barry would indicate
that he is an aggressive
driver, not one who does not push his car to the
limits. His numerous past
postings would indicate the same. And, he is not
he only person with mods who
has indicated that stock clutches are a
reliable choice. Only when mods
exceed 500hp does it seem that OME (or for
that matter some AM) clutches do
not hold up. There are also obvious cases
where clear abuse is the cause of
clutch failure. That Minnesota members
seem to go through stock clutches
rapidly, may be either a comment on their
advanced modifications, or on a
similar launch skill that they have learned
from one and other. It is
certainly not for me to judge which, as similarly
it is not the place in this
group for any member to judge another.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 13 19:24:24 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock clutch??
Are you kidding me?
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 22:10:53 -0800
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I have 58,000 miles on my stock clutch and drive it pretty hard
on my
commute back
and forth from home to work. However, this clutch
cannot hold more than a
3000 rpm
launch. Anything more sends
it burning away with the car just sitting
there. If I drag
the
clutch out, it moves quickly out of the hole, but not that
aggressively. It
seems to get
the turbos to start spooling and take
off hard, I have to cheat and get the
car rolling
just slightly and then
bring up the RPMs and slip it out. A recent
tranny
replacement
proved that the stock clutch had much of its material
still remaining. Its
a really great clutch
in traffic, but its too
soft for hard launches IMHO. Someone said that
perhaps the
previous
owner glazed the flywheel? Everyone who has ever driven my car
has
burnt the
clutch bad on there first try. Most do not like it and
can not understand
how it does a 4.8
second 0-60. I am going to get
a Centerforce because I believe it is soft
enough to
keep the tranny from
blowing apart, but clamps hard enough to blast the car
off the
line.
After driving this car for a year now, I still can not get a great
launch
without burning
the stock clutch. Many times, the car just sits there
while the clutch
stinks up the air. My
T/A had a much better
tranny.
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 13 20:41:59 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock clutch??
Are you kidding me?
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 21:42:42 -0700
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Precedence: bulk
The flywheel
won't be glazed per se, but rather the surface of the friction
plate.
This happens when it gets too hot too fast and the resins which bind
the
friction material together melt rather than burn off. This
same
phenomenon can happen to brake pads. It can also happen early in a
clutch's
life from premature break-in.
My stock clutch regularly
withstood 6500 rpm "near side-step" launches even
with in excess of
45,000 miles without signifcant slippage. This was before
the 15Gs
etc. This induced wheelspin which is what you want to do for
super
quick launches. If the wheels are not spinning and the engine is
revving
steadily at launch time then the clutch is slipping. Not what
you want to
do. There will always be some degree of slippage since
that's how clutches
work, but there should not be enough to cause the engine
to rev freely
without providing forward momentum.
The tranny is not at
fault here, you just need to be more agressive with the
launch if this is
what you want to do. From experience, this gets expensive
fast. I
have been through two transmissions and a driveshaft. The key to
string
launches is to literally let the clutch out as fast as you can lift
your foot
without actually side-stepping the clutch. On a properly tuned
VR4 this
will allow adequate engine load to facilitate quick spool-up
without
overspinning the clutch prior to it grabbing. As soon as it starts
to
get hot gases will form on the surface and hamper the clutches ability
to
clamp. The clutch has to hook up while it is still relatively
cool. This
means inducing wheelspin. Usually this is around
4500-5500 rpm at the line
depending on the car and other
conditions.
All of this is terribly hard on the car of course, and is on
any car. Two
wheel drive cars however tend to break loose first which
makes it easier on
the driveline. Our cars hook up so well that it
really takes a lot to make
them break loose. The AWD configuration puts
an incredible amount of stress
on the drveline in these
situations.
For spirited street driving 4.8 sec 0-60 times can be had
with 3000-3500 rpm
easy launches. This is ually enough to stomp on most
street cars. Hard
launches (4500 up, with the method described above)
can put you into the
1.6 - 1.7 sec 60' bracket, which is closer to a 4 second
0-60 time. Not
shabby for a street car.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Sam Shelat
>
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 1999 11:11 PM
> To: team3s
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you kidding me?
>
>
>
> I
have 58,000 miles on my stock clutch and drive it pretty hard on my
>
commute back
> and forth from home to work. However, this clutch
cannot hold more than a
> 3000 rpm
> launch. Anything
more sends it burning away with the car just sitting
> there.
If I drag the
> clutch out, it moves quickly out of the hole, but not
that
> aggressively. It
> seems to get
> the turbos to
start spooling and take off hard, I have to cheat
> and get the
>
car rolling
> just slightly and then bring up the RPMs and slip it
out. A recent tranny
> replacement
> proved that the stock
clutch had much of its material still
> remaining. Its
> a
really great clutch
> in traffic, but its too soft for hard launches
IMHO. Someone said that
> perhaps the
> previous owner glazed
the flywheel? Everyone who has ever driven
> my car has
>
burnt the
> clutch bad on there first try. Most do not like it and
can not understand
> how it does a 4.8
> second 0-60. I am
going to get a Centerforce because I believe it is soft
> enough
to
> keep the tranny from blowing apart, but clamps hard enough to
>
blast the car
> off the
> line. After driving this car for a
year now, I still can not get a great
> launch without burning
> the
stock clutch. Many times, the car just sits there while the clutch
>
stinks up the air. My
> T/A had a much better
tranny.
>
> Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Nov 14 10:42:50 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'Klusmanp@aol.com'" <Klusmanp@aol.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: bent rim repair
Date:
Sun, 14 Nov 1999 10:45:02 -0800
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I belive you can
visit www.fixarim.com for details.
:-----Original Message-----
:From:
Klusmanp@aol.com [mailto:Klusmanp@aol.com]
:Sent: Saturday, November 13, 1999
4:33 PM
:To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
:Subject: Team3S: bent rim
repair
:
:
:Got some new tires today. I drove up to Tire Rack HQ in
South
:Bend, IN to
:have them install some Dunlop SP9000s on my '91 VR4.
I've been
:having a
:vibration problem I can't get rid of, so I was
interested in
:having Tire Rack
:"match" the tires to the rims
(position the tire on the rim so
:the low spot
:on the rim matches the
high spot on the tire - gives an
:overall more round
:rim/tire
combo).
:
:They found two rims bent pretty badly (.08 runout on the worst
:one) - you
:could see the wobble as the rim/tire spun on the test
machine.
:They mounted
:the two bent rims on the rear, and the car
drives pretty much
:glass smooth...
: for now.
:
:I was told that
running the new tires on bent rims will cause
:the tires to go
:out of
round, so I'm interested in having the rims repaired
:before this
:happens. It shouldn't be too difficult, just build up some
:weld on the
low
:spots where the tire bead sits, mount the rim on a lathe, and
:turn
it back
:true again. Yes, I realize this will cause the rim to be
:unbalanced. No big
:deal, just have to put more weights on the rim to
get
:everything balanced.
:
:Anybody know of a good shop that can do
this sort of rim repair?
:
:Thanks
:
:Paul Klusman
:For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
:http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
:
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Nov 14 14:11:03 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock clutch??
Are you kidding me?
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 14:13:15 -0800
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One cannot
forget that overheated pressure plates get _very_ weak.
Roach a clutch a
couple times, and the pressure plate will begin to get kinda
soft, and can
give the impression of a bad flywheel, glazed disc..etc.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 16:57:54 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are you kidding me?
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 18:57:43
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> While
opinions are held by everyone, they can in fact become close to
>
affronting if not managed properly. My experience with Barry
> would
indicate that he is an aggressive driver, not one who does
> not push his
car to the limits. His numerous past postings would
> indicate the
same. And, he is not he only person with mods who
> has indicated
that stock clutches are a reliable choice. Only when
> mods exceed 500hp
does it seem that OME (or for that matter some
> AM) clutches do not hold
up. There are also obvious cases
> where clear abuse is the cause of
clutch failure. That
> Minnesota members seem to go through stock
clutches rapidly, may
> be either a comment on their advanced
modifications, or on a
> similar launch skill that they have learned from
one and other.
> It is certainly not for me to judge which, as similarly
it is not
> the place in this group for any member to judge
another.
I have to agree with you here... I think the stock clutch
is excellent for a stock car, or a car with upgrades within the area of HP where
the stock clutch has enough clamping force to hold the power. It is
certainly good enough for daily driving. It does glaze somewhat easily,
which is why I'm planning on getting an ACT in the spring for my car. The
additional 300 pounds in my car also doesn't help it a lot for launching,
although I've seen one 1.7 60' time. I'm not consistent at launching the
car yet, and that's part of the reason why I'm going ACT. If I could
launch perfectly all the time, I'd probably do another stock clutch - but since
I can't I want one that will be more forgiving.
There have been a couple
times where I've raced against my roommate (he has a '91 VR4) where I've let the
adrenaline get the best of me and stayed on the gas with the clutch
slipping. The stock clutch does* come back after a couple hundred miles,
but it is very sub-optimal until it fixes itself (rubs off the glazed
layer).
If you are a great driver and can get consistently good launches
and the stock clutch holds the power level you are at, then you might as well
get another stock clutch. It'll probably be the easiest on your
drivetrain. If the clutch doesn't hold the power, or you aren't a perfect
launcher then an aftermarket might suit your car better.
-Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 18:18:55 1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Nov
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch Questions
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If the splined
input shaft of the transmission is worn, the clutch plate that
is supposed
to slide on it will get stuck and create the problems described.
wear can
be in the form of worn splines or a twisted shaft (remember those
side step
launches?)
hope the trannies are still under warranty.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 18:33:30 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Questions
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 20:33:25
-0600
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> If the
splined input shaft of the transmission is worn, the
> clutch plate that
is supposed to slide on it will get stuck
> and create the problems
described.
>
> wear can be in the form of worn splines or a twisted
shaft
> (remember those side step launches?)
It can also be caused
by the throwout bearing chewing the surface of the shaft which it rides on if a
clutch was changed or tranny swapped and no lubricant applied to the inner ring
of the throwout bearing or shaft. This may be more likely as the friction
disc actually moves very little on the splined shaft to
engage/disengage.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 19:15:46 1999
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From:
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Questions
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 19:13:21 -0800
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Great post Matt;
The <last part> of the post is likely
to reduce a lot of sweating, or give
room for an option, with those who feel
they need a tranny rebuild or
replacement (first part of post) and will serve
to alert the rest of us
(myself included) on lubing the TOB inner ring (and
shaft) instead of
assuming the TOB comes with factory lube, and that no
more lube is
required. Chances are, average dealership mechanics just install
them as is,
with clutch replacements, and do not lube, and the symptoms
described then
(re) appear sooner or
later.
snip
>> If the splined input shaft of the
transmission is worn, the |
>> clutch plate that is supposed to slide
on it will get stuck |----first
part
>> and create the
problems
described.
|
>>
>> wear can be in the form of worn splines or a twisted
shaft
>> (remember those side step
launches?)
V---------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------last
part
V
>It can also be caused by the throwout bearing chewing the
surface of the
shaft which it rides on if a clutch was changed or tranny
swapped and no
lubricant applied to the inner ring of the throwout bearing or
shaft. This
may be more likely as the friction disc actually moves very
little on the
splined shaft to
engage/disengage.
snip
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Subject: Team3S: Electronic boost Control
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Right now I am
trying to decide what make of boost controller to go with.
Apex, Blitz,
Greddy, or HKS IV. If anyone has any input on which unit to
purchase and of a reasonable distributer, I would welcome the information.
Presently I have a 91 TT stealth with Alamo down pipe, borla exhaust,
K&N
intake and HKS timer. After the booster I plan to upgrade the wires,
intercooler pipes, then the turbos. I am thinking of reaching 550 hp range.
So I am looking for a booster that would be compatible with these upgrades.
I
also would like one that has the least likely hood of allowing me to
overboost and damage the engine,
thanks for the input
Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 21:31:57 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Clutch Questions
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:31:49
-0600
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>The <last
part> of the post is likely to reduce a lot of sweating, or give
>room
for an option, with those who feel they need a tranny rebuild
or
>replacement (first part of post) and will serve to alert the rest of
us
>(myself included) on lubing the TOB inner ring (and shaft) instead
of
>assuming the TOB comes with factory lube, and that no more lube
is
>required. Chances are, average dealership mechanics just install them
as is,
>with clutch replacements, and do not lube, and the symptoms
described then
>(re) appear sooner or later.
Yeah, the bearing
comes greased on the inside (the sealed part), but no lube on the outer surfaces
(the surface that interfaces with the tranny shaft) so the inner metal ring and
shaft should be lubed with lithium grease. If that shaft is worn, you
might be able to polish it and replace the TO bearing and be okay. The
same symptom appears on DSM trannies on occasion, particularly with aftermarket
throwout bearings which don't have a plastic inner sleeve to reduce
friction. I'm not sure if the OEM parts for 3/S have the inner plastic
ring or not. Regardless it should be lubed before
installation.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 21:38:23 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Electronic boost Control
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:38:19
-0600
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>Right now I
am trying to decide what make of boost controller to go with.
>Apex,
Blitz, Greddy, or HKS IV. If anyone has any input on which unit to
>purchase and of a reasonable distributer, I would welcome the
information.
>Presently I have a 91 TT stealth with Alamo down pipe,
borla exhaust, K&N
>intake and HKS timer. After the booster I plan to
upgrade the wires,
>intercooler pipes, then the turbos. I am thinking of
reaching 550 hp range.
>So I am looking for a booster that would be
compatible with these upgrades. I
>also would like one that has the least
likely hood of allowing me to
>overboost and damage the engine, thanks
for the input Bob
You might want to consider changing
the order of your upgrades. Doing the boost controller at this point will
give the most benefit by far. After that, you might want to do the turbo
upgrade if you feel the stock turbos are insufficient. Intercoolers and
pipes don't seem to make that much difference until you are flowing tons of air,
and if you do the turbo upgrade you will probably need fuel control (injectors,
controller and maybe a pump) more than bigger intercoolers. When you get
closer to making a decision, it might be helpful to monitor your intake air
temperatures in the Y-pipe to get a better feel for whether larger intercoolers
would help or not.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 21:38:51 1999
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Date:
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From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
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To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"
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Subject: Team3S: Warranty
Items
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Hello
all,
I picked my stealth up not too long ago, it's a 93
R/T TT with
86,000 miles now. The original owner had purchased the 7
year/100,000
mile bumper-to-bumper everything is covered warranty thing which
will
expire in February.
I thought of a few things
and they are gonna have it in to fix those
things in the coming weeks, I was
wondering if there are any particular
things I should check and have replaced
while I can. Things I may not
have otherwise noticed. So far
they're replacing the struts, sunroof
hinges, power antenna, and
seatbelts.
Thanks in advance,
--Rich Halvorsen
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 21:40:44 1999
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To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Snow
Tires/Rims
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Hello
all,
Another question, I have to drive this stealth(93,
R/T TT) through
the winter, and I've already picked up some 17" snow
tires, however I am
weary of puttin them on the chrome stock rims and lettin
them suffer the
winter.
How can I get some cheap
17" rims or does anyone have like other
stock rims that aren't chrome
they need to unload? Any ideas in
general
appreciated,
thanks,
--Rich Halvorsen
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 22:03:18 1999
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From: "B
Collett" <hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:05:57 +1300
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I have just installed my new engine, Forged Pistons,
15'Gs and 550cc =
injectors.
My injectors have a different Ohm requirement
so I have some resistors =
hooked into the injectors, I am not sure if
this is working and my car =
is running VERY rich.
Anyone have some ideas,
I am putting the standard injectors back in =
tomorrow and running standard
boost to run engine in.
Any help would be great, I have to get the thing
working by saturdays =
flying quater, 180kph+
easy??
Henry
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HTML//EN">
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4.72.3616.1301"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have
just installed my new engine, =
Forged=20
Pistons, 15'Gs and 550cc
injectors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>My injectors have a different Ohm =
requirement so=20
I have
some resistors hooked into the injectors, I am not sure if =
this
is=20
working and my car is running VERY
rich.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Anyone have some ideas, I am putting =
the=20
standard
injectors back in tomorrow and running standard boost to run
=
engine=20
in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any help would be great, I have to =
get the
thing=20
working by saturdays flying quater, 180kph+
easy??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Henry</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BF2F9C.72BA9F60--
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 22:22:47 1999
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>,
<sjc0u812@juno.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Questions
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 22:27:51 -0800
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Interesting Darcy and all.
I checked with 2 of my mechanics -
one independent and the other works at NW
Mitsubishi and both of them told me
that it is quite unlikely that it has to
do with the transmission. Both of
them are aware I installed a transmission
in my car not long ago- about
slightly less than a year ago...and are
pretty sure that it is just a
sign of a failing clutch.
Just to add one point though, that feeling
notchy feeling when u gradually
release the clutch pedal is pretty
intermittent. It happens a lot more when
I am caught in traffic vs. when I am
driving long distance.
Reading on...
Julian
Ng
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Darcy
Gunnlaugson <wce@telus.net>
To: 3000gtvr4
<gtovr4@postalzone.com>; sjc0u812@juno.com
<sjc0u812@juno.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, November 12, 1999 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Questions
>Julian, Scott ,et al;
>
>The notchiness
thus far described sounds like a clutch problem and not a
>tranny problem.
The latter is the boogie man of the 3S world and we are
>always listening
for his footsteps>> almost to the degree of hysteria.
I
>should think the tranny symptoms would not be described as notchy
clutch
>pedal movement..or if they were so described, it would also be
readily
>evident in the feel of the shift lever while you were holding it.
Thus far
>the "feel" seems to be described in the pedal and not
the shifter. So,
>possibly (and this is a guess) there is a "half
wit" problem with some
>installers, and things are not assembled or
aligned quite right: TOB's not
>quite put in right (is there (?) a back
and front, etc). It may be a simple
>prob that is easily replicated to the
side of error by those not totally
>familiar with the setup. Again a
guess...but I would suspect that this does
>not occur where someone has
done a dozen of these installations
>successfully. Often times our cars
are simply on the job training, and we
>are charged for it (Geez, a
3S!! I've never worked on one of them
before).
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'B Collett'"
<hcollett@ihug.co.nz>,
team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 00:25:53 -0600
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> I have just
installed my new engine, Forged Pistons, 15'Gs and
> 550cc
injectors. My injectors have a different Ohm requirement
> so I have
some resistors hooked into the injectors, I am not
> sure if this is
working and my car is running VERY rich.
> Anyone have some ideas, I am
putting the standard injectors
> back in tomorrow and running standard
boost to run engine in.
> Any help would be great, I have to get the thing
working by
> saturdays flying quater, 180kph+ easy??
I'm not sure
on this, but I thought the rating on injectors
is actually impedance and not
straight resistance. Be careful
with this, as if you get it wrong you
can fry the injector
drivers in the ECU. If you just dropped the 550's
in there
with no other fuel control (ie: trying to run with stock
ECU)
then I'd expect that it would run rich, especially at WOT as
the ECU
doesn't change the flow based upon sensor data, it
pulls the delivery curves
out of a table. Even at idle and
partial throttle, it takes the ECU a
while to change the
trim values to hit the corect A/F ratio
targets.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Snow
Tires/Rims
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:45:14 -0600
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bulk
When I stopped by the dealer after having new tires put on, my
salesman that
sold me the car noticed the new wheels and asked what I did
with the old
ones. I told him I was trying to sell him and he said that
the dealership
will buy back old rims (they pay $25 a rim, non chrome of
course). So
perhaps your local mitsubishi dealer has a set of used
17" rims that they
could sell you (if the dealers in your area happen to
buy them back)? Else
I'd suggest looking for places that deal in used
tires because they might
have used rims as well for sale. Or you could
just eat the money and buy a
new set of inexpensive rims. I shop at the
Tire Rack www.tirerack.com
and got my new set of 17" rims for $139 a
piece. Their just regular silver
style rims that are clear
coated. In case yer interested in checking them
out, they're Kosei
SC6's.
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 14 22:32:02 1999
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From: "Benson
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To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Warranty Items
Date: Sun, 14 Nov 1999 23:49:57 -0600
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Make sure that a timing belt job was done, very important :).
Also have
them check all the little things, like the power mirrors, the fog
lights
(that they work properly), the window washer ports (where the water
actually
comes out of on the hood and the rear window), all the lights on the
dash
light up, etc.... It's the little things that you'll always seem
to miss,
and it's best to check it (no matter how trivial) so they can fix
it, else
they add up quickly when it's coming out of your pocket. Also,
check the AC
and the heater, a lot of people will buy a car in the summer,
check the AC
to see if it works, but won't check the heater or defrosters
because they
didn't think about it.
good luck :),
Latuh
fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do you ever have second
thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 03:16:10 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov
1999 06:15:18 EST
Subject: Team3S: car for sale :(
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I have decided
to sell my car and move on. Its not a VR4, sorry. That is
one of
the reasons I am selling it. Either way its in great shape. Rebuilt
Tranny, new clutch, plugs (Bosch P +4) wires and K&N
Filtercharger. Eibach
lowering springs (1.5" rear and 1.3"
front) Paint is really nice. Interior
is in great shape (2
stains on a seat) small ones though. Just put in a
Clarion Pro Audio
Cd player 1 month ago. Have all the paperwork on parts
etc.
Would like to get $9500. Oh yeah its a 93 3000GT. Red on grey.
Car
is in Merrimack NH, south of Manchester and North of Nashua. 15
minutes from
Mass border.
Jim
(603) 429-4182
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 05:25:02 1999
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From:
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Subject: Team3S: oil cooled
pistons?
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:24:21 +0100
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Hi
Are our pistons oil cooled? (i.e. oil sprayed directly
under the pistons for
cooling purpose)
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.3000gt.nu
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From owner-stealth-3000gt
Mon Nov 15 05:46:04 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Re: oil cooled
pistons?
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Yes. The
stock rods have a squirter hole and hole in the rod bearing, so oil
squirts
out once per revolution onto the underside of the stock piston.
Jack
T.
Mikael Åkesson wrote:
> Are our pistons oil cooled?
(oil sprayed under pistons for
> cooling).
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 07:10:01 1999
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From:
"Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock clutch?? Are
you kidding me?
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 09:09:30 -0600
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OK, so I feel
compelled to explain myself.
My original thought was to use an ACT.
It was a good thought, just that I
should have had it about 6 months
earlier. After calling every 3S and DSM
shop I could find a number too,
I gave up. No one had the ACT in stock, and
delivery was looking like
at least a month. So, hence stock clutch.
Since I put the stock
clutch in (which holds very nice, hasn't had a lot of
beating though), I have
decided that I will probably not change it to an
ACT. Why?
Simple. I would rather change the clutch every 45,000 miles
than shock
the driveline like hell.
Anyway, my $.02
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron
[SMTP:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, November 12, 1999 11:07
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Stock
clutch?? Are you kidding me?
...snip
John has a 95 R/T TT and
after one trip to the track and a lot of
G-tech
runs, his stock clutch
started slipping. He has since replaced it
with
another stock
clutch. (Don't ask
why)
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 09:20:44 1999
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From: Michael Booker
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Subject: Team3S: A couple of
questions.
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<005d01bf2f2d$3fc3e5e0$10c9c9c9@benson>
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Does anybody
have a picture of the various downpipes available? I'm
thinking of trying to
have one put on my NA, with a connector pipe where
the turbo would be. Also,
will an ATR Hi-flow cat bold directly onto a
stock exhaust system?
Thanks,
Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 15 09:33:24 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'mrbook@gate.net'" <mrbook@gate.net>, mattrt@hotmail.com
Cc:
3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: A
couple of questions.
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 09:31:50 -0800
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Matt...
No pictures here, however ATR has a product catalog
with pictures of their
complete exhaust assembly.
Yes, strangely
enough, the ATR high flow cat/test pipe reduces to fit the
stock exhaust. I
say strange as I would "assume" that anyone replacing their
DP and
cat would already have a 3" catback exhaust. I had to have a larger
pipe
and flange welded on mine.
Now, a note of caution...the NA engines need a
certain amount of
backpressure to achieve hp and torque. While it's a
tradeoff with the TTs
(some low end torque loss in exchange for some extra
hp), the NAs will
likely suffer in both areas if you open the exhaust up to
3". Talk to a
tuner in your area, or get more opinions from NA owners on
the list.
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original
Message-----
From: Michael Booker [mailto:mrbook@gate.net]
Sent: Monday,
November 15, 1999 9:20 AM
To: mattrt@hotmail.com
Cc: 3000GT
Mailing
Subject: Team3S: A couple of questions.
Does anybody have
a picture of the various downpipes available? I'm
thinking of trying to have
one put on my NA, with a connector pipe where
the turbo would be. Also, will
an ATR Hi-flow cat bold directly onto a
stock exhaust system?
Thanks,
Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 15 10:12:01 1999
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Mon, 15 Nov 1999 10:11:54 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
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To:
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Electronic boost Control
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> Right
now I am trying to decide what make of boost controller to go with.
>
Apex, Blitz, Greddy, or HKS IV. If anyone has any input on which
unit to
> purchase and of a reasonable distributer, I would welcome the
information.
This question seems to be asked a lot lately. Here is
my regular answer. All
electronic controllers are reported to hold
boost very well. The new Apexi
AVC-R currently has more features than
any competitor though:
1) You can specify different boost levels for
different (selectable) RPM bands.
2) The unit uses gear based learning.
3)
It uses a relative pressure sensor, you don't have to reset settings
for
atmospheric or elevation changes.
4) Has extensive display modes
including graphs and digital readouts of up to 4
parameters.
The one
drawback is the display is large and you have to find a place to
mount
it. I used the supplied bracket and slipped it inbetween the AC
outlet. It
holds it snug right in front of the stock boost
gauge.
I bought mine from Mike Mahaffey at
http://www.alteredatmosphere.com. You can
also try Indra at
http://www.apexvr4.com/ if you're on the West Coast.
--
I'm surprised
you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe
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From
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From: "B Collett"
<hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Matt Jannusch"
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>,
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 07:27:38
+1300
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Yes sorry that is what I meant, the impedance is not right, I have
been onto
RC to try and get the right inectors.
I am running a HKS F-CON,
it is running on 0 but still very rich, I am sure
the injectors are not
compatable or the auto electrician wired them to the
resistors wrong..
Do
you think I need a new computer to handle the new
injectors?
Henry
Opps I meant 180MPH+ that
possible?
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 'B Collett' <hcollett@ihug.co.nz>;
team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, 15 November
1999 19:25
Subject: RE: Team3S: 550cc Injectors
>> I have
just installed my new engine, Forged Pistons, 15'Gs and
>> 550cc
injectors. My injectors have a different Ohm requirement
>> so I
have some resistors hooked into the injectors, I am not
>> sure
if this is working and my car is running VERY rich.
>> Anyone
have some ideas, I am putting the standard injectors
>> back in
tomorrow and running standard boost to run engine in.
>> Any help would
be great, I have to get the thing working by
>> saturdays flying
quater, 180kph+ easy??
>
>I'm not sure on this, but I thought the
rating on injectors
>is actually impedance and not straight
resistance. Be careful
>with this, as if you get it wrong you can
fry the injector
>drivers in the ECU. If you just dropped the 550's
in there
>with no other fuel control (ie: trying to run with stock
ECU)
>then I'd expect that it would run rich, especially at WOT
as
>the ECU doesn't change the flow based upon sensor data,
it
>pulls the delivery curves out of a table. Even at idle
and
>partial throttle, it takes the ECU a while to change the
>trim
values to hit the corect A/F ratio targets.
>
>-Matt
>'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov
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From: "wagner@sprynet.com"
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Subject: Team3S: Getrag overhaul
kits????
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Hey
everyone:
A guy on the 3SI website just posted the
following:
=========================================================================
A
91 3000 GT vr4 awd turbo 5 spd master transmission Overhaul Kit
(gaskets,
bearings, seals ) is $353.55. A transfer case master Overhaul
Kit (gaskets,
bearings, seals )is $84.00. Other parts are available from
the dealer
only.
We accept all major credit cards. Please
call
800-776-1191
(503-284-768) or fax 503-280-1655 to
order.
=========================================================================
I
noticed that the kit mentioned above doesn't identify any synchros. Is
anyone
familiar with these guys?
Thanks,
Bill Wagner
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 10:41:56 1999
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Reply-To: "John P.
Kaiser" <jkaiser@emed.com>
From: "John P. Kaiser"
<jkaiser@emed.com>
To: "3000 GT List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Team 3S:
Exhaust Question.
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:19:15 -0600
Organization:
ACCESS RADIOLOGY
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Hello,
I have a 99 3000GT ( Base Model ) and I am in the market
for some
performance improving
exhaust. What is a good exhaust
system to go with, without increasing the
volume of exhaust
to much?
I'm looking for the most quiet, yet horsepower increasing system.
I already
have installed a K&N filter.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
John
Kaiser
99 3000 GT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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From:
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References:
<000701bf2f2f$7d0967c0$129464d8@p3>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:51:21 +0100
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Short Admin Warning : Please do not use HTML (Rich-Text) in
your post. Onyl
use normal Text. Thanks !
> I have just installed
my new engine, Forged Pistons, 15'Gs and 550cc
injectors.
Good
decision !
> My injectors have a different Ohm requirement so I have
some resistors
hooked into the injectors, I am
> not sure if this
is working and my car is running VERY rich.
The question from Matt is
right : What fuel control are you using ?
The two stock fuel maps are too
small and cannot adapt for the bigger
injectors. Even 440cc are too large and
the figures are out of the map.
What injectors have you choosen ? Our
system uses a resistor pack for the
injectors and if the current to drive
them is different, then also the
driving parts must be changed. As Matt
stated correctly, the driver
transistors are in danger
!
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 15 11:04:09 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F779D@EXCHANGE1>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Electronic boost Control
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:56:53
+0100
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> You might want to consider changing the order of your
upgrades.
I agree #1 !
> Doing the boost controller at
this point will give the most benefit by
far.
I agree #2 !
>
After that, you might want to do the turbo upgrade if you feel the stock
>
turbos are insufficient.
You mentioned it later but even with the stock
turbos, the stock fuel system
is at its end and Stage 2/3 consists of the
bigger injectors, pump and fuel
control. Therefore, before you put in the
larger turbos, fuel must be
delivered. Then choose the right turbos for your
system :)
> a decision, it might be helpful to monitor your intake air
temperatures
> in the Y-pipe to get a better feel for whether larger
intercoolers would
> help or not.
I'd even go further : Buy a TMO
Datalogger ... and you know what you do :-)
Unfortunately, Todd Day, the
maker of the Datalogger is not answering emails
:((
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 11:23:41 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 11:25:26
-0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
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To:
"wagner@sprynet.com" <wagner@sprynet.com>
CC:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag overhaul
kits????
References: <383051D4.C2D3030A@sprynet.com>
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Bill et
al:
I called these folks because I noted the local (PDX)
telephone
number. This is what I got:
There are *no* overhaul kits for the
Getrags. They
are willing to do work on these tranny's and
x-fer
cases on a "parts & labor" basis only. No
firm
pricing as they don't have any experience history
and each repair
would consist of replacing
worn/broken parts only - no "blood, guts
& feathers"
end-to-end repairs.
I also (for the hell
of it) asked him about getting
synchros. He told me that he lists
synchros for
the F5M33 5-speed transmission, but not the W5MG1
5-speed
transmission, which sounds to me like the
difference between the NA and the
TT tranny's.
Somebody let me know if I'm right or wrong on this.
When
something sounds too good to be true,
......
Rich
-------------------------------------------------
"wagner@sprynet.com"
wrote:
>
> Hey everyone:
>
> A guy on the 3SI website
just posted the following:
>
>
=========================================================================
>
> A 91 3000 GT vr4 awd turbo 5 spd master transmission Overhaul
Kit
> (gaskets, bearings, seals ) is $353.55. A transfer case master
Overhaul
> Kit (gaskets, bearings, seals )is $84.00. Other parts are
available from
> the dealer only.
>
>
We accept all major credit cards. Please call
>
800-776-1191
>
(503-284-768) or fax 503-280-1655 to order.
>
>
=========================================================================
>
> I noticed that the kit mentioned above doesn't identify any synchros.
Is
> anyone familiar with these guys?
--
"If you dig it, do
it.
If you really dig it, do it twice"
- Jim Croce
(1943-1973)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 11:27:44 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 20:27:15
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To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
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> I am
running a HKS F-CON, it is running on 0 but still very rich, I am sure
>
the injectors are not compatable or the auto electrician wired them to
the
> resistors wrong..
Well, the F-CON is not the first choice for
our cars. It may work but not
perfect. But you'll find out when you have the
correct injectors.
> Do you think I need a new computer to handle the
new injectors?
Yes, get rid of the F-CON and leave the ECU where it
is.
> Opps I meant 180MPH+ that possible?
Yes, but you must run
on about 1.3 bars of boost and you need something to cool
down the excessive
discharge temperature. I runned 174mph (the speedo showed
mroe than 300km/h)
with boost at about 1.25 bars (you know how I killed the
engine) More is very
hard to get as it needs a lot more tourque to maintain
the
speed.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:33:38 -0600
To:
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
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My Getrag has
given up after only 1 year and 5,000 miles: It drives fine
but it's leaking,
and the Mitsu dealer will replace it under factory
warranty. It was replaced
last year under my extended warranty, but because
the dealer put in a new
Mitsu tranny, it came with a 12-month factory
warranty.
For whoever is
keeping track of Getrag failures:
94 VR4
68,900 miles total -- 5,000
since transmission replacement 12 months ago.
Engine: stock (K&N
only)
Usage: I drive it briskly, but no dragstrip launches, no hard shifts.
A little road racing now and then, but almost always in 3rd and 4th gear.
Symptoms: leaking fluid
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/tranny killer
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 12:49:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 14:36:54 -0600
To:
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Redline boost
controller--help!
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I just got my
Redline manual boost controller.
The instructions are
somewhat...cryptic.
Has anyone else installed one on a VR4?
Got any advice
or instructions?
Rich/old poop/95 VR4/Heavy breathing soon, I
hope.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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Message-ID:
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'Merritt'" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 12:56:38 -0800
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Thats weird, our
Getrag started leaking really bad as well.
Its been
replaced.
-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 12:34
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
My Getrag has given up after only 1 year and 5,000 miles: It
drives fine
but it's leaking, and the Mitsu dealer will replace it under
factory
warranty. It was replaced last year under my extended warranty, but
because
the dealer put in a new Mitsu tranny, it came with a 12-month
factory
warranty.
For whoever is keeping track of Getrag
failures:
94 VR4
68,900 miles total -- 5,000 since transmission
replacement 12 months ago.
Engine: stock (K&N only)
Usage: I drive it
briskly, but no dragstrip launches, no hard shifts.
A little road racing now
and then, but almost always in 3rd and 4th gear.
Symptoms: leaking
fluid
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/tranny killer
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 13:07:18 1999
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Date:
Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:06:20 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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To: "Mohler,
Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
CC: "'Merritt'"
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Scratch one more Getrag
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My Getrag was
leaking too in Spring. It turned out to be the "freeze-plug"
like
tranny plug that faces the front passenger-side wheel, it was
gone. Replaced
the $23 plug and used a little silicon goo and that
solved the problem. Check
this plug first when your Getrag starts
leaking...
'91 VR4, 106K, 50K on 2nd tranny
"Mohler,
Jeff" wrote:
>
> Thats weird, our Getrag started leaking
really bad as well.
>
> Its been replaced.
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 12:34
PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Scratch
one more Getrag
>
> My Getrag has given up after only 1 year and
5,000 miles: It drives fine
> but it's leaking, and the Mitsu dealer will
replace it under factory
> warranty. It was replaced last year under my
extended warranty, but because
> the dealer put in a new Mitsu tranny, it
came with a 12-month factory
> warranty.
>
> For whoever is
keeping track of Getrag failures:
>
> 94 VR4
> 68,900 miles
total -- 5,000 since transmission replacement 12 months ago.
> Engine:
stock (K&N only)
> Usage: I drive it briskly, but no dragstrip
launches, no hard shifts.
> A little road racing now and then, but almost
always in 3rd and 4th gear.
> Symptoms: leaking fluid
--
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 13:24:34 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team3S List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Info on new Porsche
brakes (ceramic)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 22:22:35 +0100
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During the last weeks I followed some information about the new
ceramic
brakes that Porsche will offer as an upgrade to their cars in mid
next year.
I was now led to the article on their page that was in the
information I was
sent from Porsche
Switzerland.
http://www.us.porsche.com/english/news/pressreleases/990924.htm
Unfortunately,
it was not more than the same information then the article
from Porsche but
if you want to see a pic I have scanned one in (not a good
pic) and it can be
found
under
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/porsche_ceramic_brake.jpg
Hm,
nobody knows how much they'll cost but they are already on my whishlist
for
christmas ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 13:32:34 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Ken
Middaugh'"
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>,
"Mohler, Jeff"
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
Cc:
"'Merritt'" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:34:32 -0800
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*heh*
Our
was nice enough to leak completely around the housing gasket
itself.
That smurf blue redline oil shows leaks
nicely.
-----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh
[mailto:Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com]
Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 1:06
PM
To: Mohler, Jeff
Cc: 'Merritt';
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
My Getrag was leaking too in Spring. It turned out to be
the "freeze-plug" like
tranny plug that faces the front
passenger-side wheel, it was gone. Replaced
the $23 plug and used a
little silicon goo and that solved the problem. Check
this plug first
when your Getrag starts leaking...
'91 VR4, 106K, 50K on 2nd
tranny
"Mohler, Jeff" wrote:
>
> Thats weird, our
Getrag started leaking really bad as well.
>
> Its been
replaced.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 15, 1999 12:34
PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Scratch
one more Getrag
>
> My Getrag has given up after only 1 year and
5,000 miles: It drives fine
> but it's leaking, and the Mitsu dealer will
replace it under factory
> warranty. It was replaced last year under my
extended warranty, but because
> the dealer put in a new Mitsu tranny, it
came with a 12-month factory
> warranty.
>
> For whoever is
keeping track of Getrag failures:
>
> 94 VR4
> 68,900 miles
total -- 5,000 since transmission replacement 12 months ago.
> Engine:
stock (K&N only)
> Usage: I drive it briskly, but no dragstrip
launches, no hard shifts.
> A little road racing now and then, but almost
always in 3rd and 4th gear.
> Symptoms: leaking fluid
--
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 15 13:42:20 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 13:05:55 -0800
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Rich;
So where is it leaking??
Darc
For
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 14:08:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 15:56:08 -0600
To: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>,
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
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>So where is
it leaking??
Dunno. The Mitsu dealer put tracer in it, told me to drive
around for a few
days, and bring it back. We put it up today, and the tracer
is everywhere,
but the mechanic can't find the source, even with his UV
light. He suspects
its the rear seal, but can't tell for
sure.
Rich/old poop/94VR4/tranny killer
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 15:05:02 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Electronic boost
Control
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:51:25 -0800
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Don't forget the injectors, pump and some sort of fuel computer
(Arc-2, VPC,
G-force) Thats another $2000
and necessary to achieve your
goal.
Sam 95 VR4
-----Original Message-----
From:
BHurvitz@aol.com <BHurvitz@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, November 14, 1999 7:42
PM
Subject: Team3S: Electronic boost Control
>Right now I am
trying to decide what make of boost controller to go with.
>Apex, Blitz,
Greddy, or HKS IV. If anyone has any input on which unit
to
>purchase and of a reasonable distributer, I would welcome the
information.
>Presently I have a 91 TT stealth with Alamo down pipe, borla
exhaust, K&N
>intake and HKS timer. After the booster I plan to
upgrade the wires,
>intercooler pipes, then the turbos. I am thinking of
reaching 550 hp range.
>So I am looking for a booster that would be
compatible with these upgrades.
I
>also would like one that has the
least likely hood of allowing me to
>overboost and damage the
engine,
>thanks for the input Bob
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 15 15:10:00 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 17:56:22 -0800
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You need an AFC to adjust the extra fuel you are
dumping in there=20
with the larger injectors. Your
stock ECU can not adjust for the =
extra
fuel
flow.
=20
Sam 95 VR4
=20
-----Original Message-----
From:
B Collett <hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday,
November 14, 1999 10:03 PM
Subject: Team3S: 550cc
Injectors
=20
=20
I have
just installed my new engine, Forged Pistons, 15'Gs and 550cc
=
injectors.
My injectors have a different Ohm
requirement so I have some =
resistors hooked into the injectors, I am not
sure if this is working =
and my car is running VERY
rich.
Anyone have some ideas, I am putting the standard
injectors back in =
tomorrow and running standard boost to run engine
in.
Any help would be great, I have to get the thing
working by =
saturdays flying quater, 180kph+ easy??
Henry
------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BF2F92.BA4E7D60
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
=
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:
#000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:
=
5px">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2><B></B></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000
=
size=3D2>You=20
need an AFC to adjust the extra
fuel you are dumping in there
=
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>with the
=
larger=20
injectors. Your stock ECU can not
adjust for the =
extra</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>fuel
flow.</FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Sam 95
VR4</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2><B></B></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original
=
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>B Collett <<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:hcollett@ihug.co.nz">hcollett@ihug.co.nz</A>><BR><B>To:=
=20
</B>team3s <<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>><BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Sunday, November 14, 1999 10:03 PM<BR><B>Subject:
</B>Team3S: =
550cc=20
Injectors<BR><BR> </DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have just installed my new
=
engine, Forged=20
Pistons, 15'Gs and 550cc
injectors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My injectors have a different
=
Ohm=20
requirement so I have some resistors hooked
into the injectors, I am =
not=20
sure if
this is working and my car is running VERY
=
rich.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Anyone have some ideas, I am =
putting
the=20
standard injectors back in tomorrow and running
standard boost to =
run engine=20
in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any help would be great, I have =
to get
the=20
thing working by saturdays flying quater, 180kph+
=
easy??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
=
size=3D2>Henry</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 15 15:25:28 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 1999 18:11:54 -0800
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Mine was diagnosed as a porous metel problem, but it was also
from the
gasket area of transfer
case. The whole bottom looked like
oil was weeping through the metel case.
I guess Kormex
will get another
set of good syncros from it!
Sam 95 VR4
-----Original
Message-----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: Darcy
Gunnlaugson <wce@telus.net>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 15, 1999 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Scratch one more
Getrag
>>So where is it leaking??
>
>Dunno. The
Mitsu dealer put tracer in it, told me to drive around for a few
>days,
and bring it back. We put it up today, and the tracer is everywhere,
>but
the mechanic can't find the source, even with his UV light. He
suspects
>its the rear seal, but can't tell for
sure.
>
>Rich/old poop/94VR4/tranny
killer
>>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 15 16:34:55 1999
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To:
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Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Mon, 15 Nov
1999 19:29:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc Injectors
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I believe that
this is something that we need to dig into a little
further. Here is
why, my '91 VR4 with 15G's, 550's, pump, VPC,GCC, etc.
has both the VPC
and the GCC set all the way lean. In top of 3rd gear I
hit o2 voltages
of 1.05 to 1.17 WAY rich. A friend has a '93 VR4 with
550's, VPC, GCC,
and an AFC that still runs rich, and 2 VR4's that a
local shop did installed
VPC's with AFC's in each car with 550's and they
to run 1+ in the o2 voltage
at top of 3rd.
One thing in common--ALL 550 injectors are from R.C.
Engineering. Now I
also think the VPC 550 chip could play a roll, but
look at how many fuel
computers are set to lean and all these cars still run
rich, something is
not right. My gas milage used to be good and now
SUCKS.
What is going on here? Injectors, fuel computers, what the hell
is to
blame? You just do not know how frustrating it is knowing that
your car
SHOULD go 1 second and 6mph faster in the 1/4 mile.
Del
Kolasinski
HELP ME
PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
___________________________________________________________________
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From
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Team3S: REPORTING GETRAG FAILURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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There is a guy
(JC) on the www.3si.org web site that's collecting data
about Getrag
failures. IF YOUR GETRAG HAS FAILED ON YOU, PLEASE GO TO
THAT WEB SITE AND
FILL IN YOUR INFO. If you're not a member, you'll have
to become one. The
WHOLE PROCESS WILL ONLY TAKE ABOUT 3 MINUTES, SO DO
IT!!!
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
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Please Post this
to everyone in the list...maybe someone can help me!!!!
I NEED HELP!! I
have found this Stealth TT and I need to find a reputible 2nd
chance
financing place for a loan! Here is the deal...I had to declare
bankruptcy
in the last year as a resault of my divorce (damn bitch) and my
credit is
shot. I do have a good job, clearing 2K a month, and had
re-affirmed my
stealth I currently own. So there is some continuous payment
history. I
don't have any other bills x-cept rent and other living expenses.
This is
the car I have been waiting for!! And I don't want it to pass me by
because
of circumstance ( I can easily make mo. pymts on the car) Anyone that
knows
someone, or knows of companies pleeeeeaaaze let me know. The caris only
$15K
and in awesome shape!Thanks for any suggestions and help!!! Ed
Currently:'93
Stealth R/T (Pearl)
Wants: '92 Stealth TT (Red)
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 16 01:39:19 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<001a01bf2f97$19949bc0$f29464d8@p3><38305E93.4408CFA@swissonline.ch>
<19991115.192930.13078.0.PEARLVR42C@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
550cc Injectors
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:40:22 +0100
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>
further. Here is why, my '91 VR4 with 15G's, 550's, pump, VPC,GCC,
etc.
> has both the VPC and the GCC set all the way lean. In
top of 3rd gear I
> hit o2 voltages of 1.05 to 1.17 WAY rich.
O2
voltages OVER 1 volt ??? I once set the mixture in the midrange super-rich and
the car began to stutter. The datalog showed 0.99v and I never saw higher values
than 1V ... interesting !
> A friend has a '93 VR4 with
> 550's,
VPC, GCC, and an AFC that still runs rich,
VPC, GCC and AFC ?? This must
be the bridge of the Enterprise :)
> One thing in common--ALL 550
injectors are from R.C. Engineering. Now I
> also think the VPC 550
chip could play a roll, but look at how many fuel
> computers are set to
lean and all these cars still run rich, something is
> not
right.
First, the VPC chip plays a very important role. But then also
remember what the computers do. They simply alter the frequency, voltage of the
output signal to the ECU. The larger the injectors, the lower the signal as this
will tell the ECU to choose a lower fuel setting and opens the injectors less
long. During closed loop this may work ok with not-so-rich readings but at WOT
the signal sent by the VPC seems to be just too high and the values on the fuel
map is therefore just too big.
> What is going on here? Injectors,
fuel computers, what the hell is to
> blame?
The VPC program should
taking care of this as it controls the rising rate as well as the curve that
follows the intake pressure. Another way would be to let the ECU tuned by
altering the fuel MAP. But IMHO, the fuel controller should taking care of this,
otherwise you have more variables and more programs that shoudl be altered. I
think that HKS or someone else should have a good program around that helps to
get rid of the problem. The RCs can be to rich as one said to me that the 550
flow like 560-570 and therefore the programs run too rich. This can be altered
by the AFCs but more important is the VPC that looks for the boost and then
alters the signal for fuel delivery.
My idea is that you maybe contact
Bob Fontana, as I'd name him as the VPC Guru. He may have a solution or at least
the better knowledge as I have.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 10:21:32 1999
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From: "Michael
Chan" <michael.chan@hcl.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: PVI
International
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:22:12 -0500
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Anyone hear about a company called PVI International? [Platinum
Vapor
Injector] Articles have been popping every so often and I was wondering
if
this is something that is worth investing in.
Apparently the unit
will add small quantities of platinum to the air-fuel
mixture entering your
engine. A 5 year US govt.. study shows " ... greater
fuel savings
with the P.V.I than the 22% claimed by the developer." I think
the
unit was only a few hundred dollars, and it is now available in
Canada.
What's up with this?
1-877-537-7427
Mike
91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
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To: "'Michael
Chan'" <michael.chan@hcl.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: PVI
International
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 10:32:08 -0800
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No offense, but
Id bet my stock options it's all BS.
Platinum..hmm..
Just where do
you go to buy this rare, more expensive than gold,
element?
:-----Original Message-----
:From: Michael Chan
[mailto:michael.chan@hcl.com]
:Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 10:22
AM
:To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
:Subject: Team3S: PVI
International
:
:
:Anyone hear about a company called PVI
International? [Platinum Vapor
:Injector] Articles have been popping every so
often and I was
:wondering if
:this is something that is worth investing
in.
:
:Apparently the unit will add small quantities of platinum to
:the air-fuel
:mixture entering your engine. A 5 year US govt..
study shows
:" ... greater
:fuel savings with the P.V.I than the 22%
claimed by the
:developer." I think
:the unit was only a few
hundred dollars, and it is now
:available in Canada.
:
:What's up with
this? 1-877-537-7427
:
:Mike
:91TT
:
:For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
:http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
:
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 11:01:14 1999
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From: "Michael
Chan" <michael.chan@hcl.com>
To: "Mohler, Jeff"
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PVI
International
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 14:01:07 -0500
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No kidding, I'm skeptical myself. Their ad is soo cheap
"U.S. Consumer
Protection has determined that the fuel saving claims of
this advertisement
are 100% accurate."
Nothing is 100%
accurate... all they give is a toll free
number
877-537-7427
-----Original Message-----
From: Mohler,
Jeff <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: 'Michael Chan'
<michael.chan@hcl.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, November 16, 1999 1:30 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: PVI
International
>No offense, but Id bet my stock options it's all
BS.
>
>Platinum..hmm..
>
>Just where do you go to buy
this rare, more expensive than gold, element?
>
>:-----Original
Message-----
>:From: Michael Chan
[mailto:michael.chan@hcl.com]
>:Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 10:22
AM
>:To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>:Subject: Team3S: PVI
International
>:
>:
>:Anyone hear about a company called PVI
International? [Platinum Vapor
>:Injector] Articles have been popping
every so often and I was
>:wondering if
>:this is something that is
worth investing in.
>:
>:Apparently the unit will add small
quantities of platinum to
>:the air-fuel
>:mixture entering your
engine. A 5 year US govt.. study shows
>:" ...
greater
>:fuel savings with the P.V.I than the 22% claimed by
the
>:developer." I think
>:the unit was only a few
hundred dollars, and it is now
>:available in
Canada.
>:
>:What's up with this?
1-877-537-7427
>:
>:Mike
>:91TT
>:
>:For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>:http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>:
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 11:12:53 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: PVI International
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:12:47
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> Apparently
the unit will add small quantities of platinum to
> the air-fuel mixture
entering your engine. A 5 year US
> govt.. study shows " ...
greater fuel savings with the
> P.V.I than the 22% claimed by the
developer." I think
> the unit was only a few hundred dollars,
and it is now
> available in Canada.
It isn't platinum, it is
peroxide. As in hydrogen peroxide... If I remember correctly.
There's a kit made for snowmobiles, and actually does give more horsepower and
cleaner emissions. I hadn't heard of a version for cars, but it makes
sense. I don't have any direct data at all, just info I remember from an
article about it in a snowmobile magazine last season.
-Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
'00 Polaris XCR-800
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 16 11:22:35 1999
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From: "Michael
Chan" <michael.chan@hcl.com>
To: "Matt Jannusch"
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: PVI International
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 14:22:08
-0500
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There is too many 'PVI Internationals' out there. I just did
an internet
search. The article / advertisement is in front of me and
they are stating
that it adds microscopic quantities of
platinum.
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 2:13
PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: PVI International
>> Apparently the
unit will add small quantities of platinum to
>> the air-fuel mixture
entering your engine. A 5 year US
>> govt.. study shows "
... greater fuel savings with the
>> P.V.I than the 22% claimed by the
developer." I think
>> the unit was only a few hundred
dollars, and it is now
>> available in Canada.
>
>It isn't
platinum, it is peroxide. As in hydrogen peroxide... If
I
remember correctly. There's a kit made for snowmobiles, and actually
does
give more horsepower and cleaner emissions. I hadn't heard of a
version for
cars, but it makes sense. I don't have any direct data at
all, just info I
remember from an article about it in a snowmobile magazine
last season.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>'00
Polaris XCR-800
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 11:44:21 1999
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From: "Greg Gonzales"
<greggonzo1@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: PVI
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Heres their
website.
http://www.pvitech.com/
Platnum? hmmm.
Greg
92 RT
TT
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owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 16 11:48:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999
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From: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero
downforce
References: <005901bf2a6f$2de0b1e0$841dc2cf@pentiumt>
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Mike Chapleski
wrote:
> Darcy wrote:
> > Jim Matthews, our European Admin in
Germany, is off to Bavaria at the moment
> > or he'd likely respond
personally on his experiences on the Autobahns there
> > in his Stealth
TT. He's had no probs taking it to the max! However, the
> >
Stealth wing and front air dam are not quite as effective at light speed
for
> > stabilization purposes, as the Mitsu's rear adjustable wing and
front
> > adjustable dam.
>
> Well I have had my '95
Stealth RT TT up to 155 mph on the speedo here in Germany. I
> have
not gone faster because my tires are a little thin, however, that will be
fixed
> this week.:) Anyway, at 140 plus I have not noticed the car
wanting to "float" or loose
> control in any way.
As
several have stated, the rear wings on both the Stealth and the VR-4
appear
to produce little useful downforce. However, the car is VERY
stable at
high speed. I have had mine up to around 170 mph (speedo)
several times
and it felt great. I have noticed a bit of a floating
sensation (light
in the rear) in curves at 130+ mph but last week's
alignment showed that my
right-rear wheel was quite a bit out of spec.
I haven't had a chance to test
for improved stability but I'm
optimistic.
How would lowering the car
affect aerodynamics and stability at high
speeds?
--
Jim Matthews
- Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom
braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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From
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'Matthews'"
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aero
downforce
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 11:57:12 -0800
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:How would
lowering the car affect aerodynamics and stability at
high
:speeds?
---
That would help at least aerodynamically (less
float) but then you have to
consider how the suspension reacts to the road,
thats more serious science at
high speeds.
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 16 12:00:42 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re Clutches
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 11:58:49 -0800
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Team;
With the recent controversy on aftermarket and OME
clutches, and in
particular
with some of the comments on RPS, I decided to
write to Rob and alert him
to some of this negative feedback. As was noted
previously I felt I was
treated fairly
by them. For your
information here is RPS's response.
"It is interesting how the
internet has become both a blessing and a
curse. If a company makes a couple
mistakes it is amplified 10 fold.
What these people don't understand is the
amount of clutches we ship out
every year! The failure percentile is VERY
low.
Yes we had a few problems with our early carbon units but even then
only
a few came back compared to the total amount that were shipped out
at
the time. Unfortunately there isn't a clutch company on earth that has
a
spotless record. All the companies claim to have the best product
going.
All the companies also have customers who are unhappy. It is
inevitable.
We do the best we can to help our customers with the problems
they may
have with our products. We feel we have a very good relationship
with
our customers. That is the best a company can offer.
"
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 16 12:09:26 1999
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From: "Landis,
Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
To: info@h2o2.com
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: H202 injection for automotive
applications?
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 14:09:22 -0600
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Hi - I stumbled
across your web-site while looking for information about,
and examples of,
H202 injection systems as an alternative to H20 injection
on
turbo-charged/supercharged automotive engines. Generally, H2O
injection
is used to help cool the incoming air charge (which is heated due
to
compression by the turbo, etc.). The H2O is injected as a mist in
nominal
amounts and helps to reduce detonation. I understand (from my
high-school
chemistry years ago) and your web-site FAQ and technical pages
that H2O2
reduces to H2O and O2. However, I suspect that there is
actually an
intermediate step as the single oxygen atom separates from the
H2O2
molecule, but before it joins up with another single oxygen atom to form
the
more stable O2.
If this reaction (H202 - > H2O + O) takes place
quickly under heat and
pressure, then hydrogen peroxide would seem to be an
excellent candidate for
this application, as you would get the benefit of
heat energy absorption (by
the H2O) as well as increased oxygenation as a
contributor to the combustion
process.
My questions are:
In the
presence of heat (150-300F?) and pressure (12-20 PSI), what happens
to
H2O2? And how quickly?
Any ideas how quickly the O becomes O2 in
the same environment? I know that
atomic oxygen is a strong oxidizing
agent. (I've studied ozone injection
water purification systems
some...) Any chance of oxidation problems in the
turbo
plumbing/intercooler?
If it doesn't break down very quickly, then what
happens to H2O2 in the
presence of hydrocarbons (gasoline) and flame?
Are there any adverse
chemical reactions to be aware of?
I'm sure that
none of these questions are new - hot rodding has been around
for a
loonngg time - and I suspect that this has been researched by
someone,
somewhere, sometime. And I understand that this application
may be outside
of the realm of your usual line of business, but I'd be
grateful for any
help you might give me. If you are aware of any
technical papers (but not
TOO technical) or other resources that address this
(or related) application
for hydrogen peroxide, I'd appreciate a push in the
right direction.
Thanks in advance for your
time,
Michael
PS. I've cc'd this to the Mitsubishi
3000GT/Stealth mailing list, wondering
if any of you guys have explored H2O2
injection in your vehicles, and with
what results....
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 13:03:25 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Matthews'"
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Cc: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Aero
downforce
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 13:02:31 -0800
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Jim...
Unless the laws of physics and aerodynamics have
completely vanished from my
head (always a possibility), anything that is
done to remove the pillow or
cushion of air under the vehicle will improve
stability at high speeds.
Remember it's the lift that allows planes to leave
the ground. A complete
air dam around the car would be ideal from a stability
perspective (look at
the cars that have made top speeds on the Bonneville
salt flats). However, I
doubt you'll find any roads around that are flat
enough for that sort of
package.
Soooo, lowering springs not only
bring the air dam closer to the ground
(which helps remove that air pillow),
but they allow stiffen the suspension
so there is less movement from uneven
road surfaces. My experience in the
140+ mph arena with my VR4 would indicate
that dropping the car 1" with
progressive springs was a great handling
improvement. As already noted, our
cars, being close to two tons, are well
designed for aerodynamics and
naturally want to hug the ground.
I'm
not sure the rear foil has the same value add, particularly if someone
who
posted 150 lbs of downforce was correct. Still every pound of downforce
helps
combat the lift from underneath. This is particularly true when the
bulk of
the vehicle weight is up front. No doubt most of us have had the fun
of a
light back end coming around in a corner (usually with RWD cars). I
wouldn't
like to think of how many times you could spin if the back snapped
around at
170 mph!!!
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original
Message-----
From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
Sent:
Tuesday, November 16, 1999 11:41 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Aero
downforce
<snip>
How would lowering the car affect
aerodynamics and stability at high
speeds?
--
Jim Matthews -
Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 13:55:17 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re
Clutches
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 15:55:13 -0600
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> The failure
percentile is VERY low.
Hmm, it really sounded like at least half the 3/S
Turbo Carbon Claw clutches that came out of the group purchase were bad, with a
significant number of the "replacement" clutches also being bad.
That's a pretty high failure percentage in my book. I'd think something
like 5% might be acceptable, but 50%+ is not. There was also mention of
RPS making promises to send a check to help with the costs incurred in having a
clutch replacement re-done, and then checks being a different amount or no check
at all.
Since I didn't buy one of those clutches, I won't comment any
more than that.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 14:18:22 1999
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Reply-To:
"Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
From: "Andy
Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re
Clutches
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 17:12:29 -0500
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Well I was one of the first to get my RPS Turbo Carbon Clutch from
RPS on
the group purchase and it appears to be holding up OK. I even
ran it at a
strip for the first time.(Quickening Gathering) I ended up
smoking it a
little on the last run ( what a terrible smell :) ) but it
was fine on the
ride back to the Cape.
Andy
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 15:59:34 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re
Clutches
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 15:57:43 -0800
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>> The failure percentile is VERY
low.
>
>Hmm, it really sounded like at least half the 3/S Turbo
Carbon Claw
clutches that came out of the group purchase were bad, with a
significant
number of the "replacement" clutches also being
bad. That's a pretty high
failure percentage in my book. I'd
think something like 5% might be
acceptable, but 50%+ is not. There was
also mention of RPS making promises
to send a check to help with the costs
incurred in having a clutch
replacement re-done, and then checks being a
different amount or no check at
all.
>
>Since I didn't buy one of
those clutches, I won't comment any more than
that.
Hmmm...a lot
of comment there Matt, for no personal experience with the
product
.
I'd be real interested in the actual failure rate of these clutches, as
I am
a purchaser myself. However, mine is not installed, so I am not in
the
position to comment, let alone pass on heresy as to their
attributes or
lack thereof. My treatment by RPS was impeccable, however, and
I would ask
for those in the group purchase to comment as Andy recently
has, as to
their satisfaction or not ,with the product, and the customer
service. Only
in this way are rumors dispelled or given credence. Brad?
Roger? Others?
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Cc:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Help with S-AVC-R
Set-up
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 18:37:38 -0600
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Jim in Germany-
Thanks much for your response!
>This
does not seem right. Does the boost stabilize eventually?
ie-
>does boost spike only when you first get on the gas and then level
out
>at your 1.0 bar setting?
I'm not sure what you would call
stabilizing. It overshoots on the way
to high rpm, but due to the OEM
turbos, of course, it drops well
below 1 bar at 6000 rpm; usually about 0.88
bar.
>> Question No. 1: Does the learning process simply change the
actual BADC
>> to a value that facilitates your selection of maximum
boost?
>The BADC you specify is not changed during the learning
process - it is
>always used as an estimate of how much the solenoid must
work to achieve
>the desired boost setting. The learning process is
more of an
>optimization of how boost is controlled based on the
characteristics of
>your engine.
You're over my head here. What
other than BADC can the boost controller
affect? I choose what max
boost I want, and it modifies BADC to try to
achieve it. Is my thinking
incorrect here?
>>Repeated runs will result in faster stabilization
of boost, but again,
>if your BADC is too high, it will continue to
overboost. That is a
>"feature" of the BADC setting.
I
don't understand this "feature." If this is true, what good is
the
learning
process?
Thanks again for your
response!
Regards,
ptg
PS- I've taken the liberty of passing this
post on to the 3S list, in hopes
of getting a wider response. Hope you
don't object.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 16:55:09 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re
Clutches
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 18:54:55 -0600
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> Hmmm...a
lot of comment there Matt, for no personal
> experience with the
product.
I paid attention to what others were saying on the list, as I
wanted to buy one as well but had missed the Group Purchase on them. The
products claims certainly sounded great. One of the local MN 3/S members
went through a few of them, but I won't share his thoughts on it on his
behalf. He'll comment if he so desires. The comments on the list,
combined with his personal experience scared me off.
-Matt
'95 3000GT
Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 17:01:00 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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To: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
CC: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Help with S-AVC-R
Set-up
References:
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"
>
>> Question No. 1: Does the learning process simply change the actual
BADC
> >> to a value that facilitates your selection of maximum
boost?
>
> >The BADC you specify is not changed during the
learning process - it is
> >always used as an estimate of how much the
solenoid must work to achieve
> >the desired boost setting. The
learning process is more of an
> >optimization of how boost is
controlled based on the characteristics of
> >your engine.
>
You're over my head here. What other than BADC can the boost
controller
> affect? I choose what max boost I want, and it modifies
BADC to try to
> achieve it. Is my thinking incorrect
here?
I'm not sure about your style, but this is indeed how the NEW
SAVC-R operates.
If learn mode is enabled, duty values are learned and
modified in order to
achieve the specified boost. If learn is disabled,
the duty values remain the
same.
--
I'm surprised you stopped me
officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 16 17:02:35 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell"
<Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Darcy Gunnlaugson"
<wce@telus.net>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re Clutches
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 1999 19:08:33 -0600
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My negative
comments about Rob and RPS are in the archives. I felt I was
flat
lied to on my "warranty" If anyone wants more specific details,
I'll
be glad to share them.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Darcy Gunnlaugson
Sent: Tuesday, November 16, 1999 5:58 PM
To:
Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re Clutches
>> The failure
percentile is VERY low.
>
>Hmm, it really sounded like at least half
the 3/S Turbo Carbon Claw
clutches that came out of the group purchase were
bad, with a significant
number of the "replacement" clutches also
being bad. That's a pretty high
failure percentage in my book.
I'd think something like 5% might be
acceptable, but 50%+ is not. There
was also mention of RPS making promises
to send a check to help with the
costs incurred in having a clutch
replacement re-done, and then checks being
a different amount or no check at
all.
>
>Since I didn't buy one
of those clutches, I won't comment any more than
that.
Hmmm...a
lot of comment there Matt, for no personal experience with the
product
.
I'd be real interested in the actual failure rate of these clutches, as
I am
a purchaser myself. However, mine is not installed, so I am not in
the
position to comment, let alone pass on heresy as to their
attributes or
lack thereof. My treatment by RPS was impeccable, however, and
I would ask
for those in the group purchase to comment as Andy recently
has, as to
their satisfaction or not ,with the product, and the customer
service. Only
in this way are rumors dispelled or given credence. Brad?
Roger? Others?
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 20:26:05 1999
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From:
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To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin note
Date:
Tue, 16 Nov 1999 20:24:15 -0800
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Yo Team;
A short interruption to your regular programming: a
reminder NOT to create
bounces to our list. Forrest had to deal with 40 of
them today. Please
revisit the rules if you are unclear as to this. Also, a
reminder that this
is a gentleman's/woman's list, where fluff, chat, flames,
and the likes, are
clearly "verboten".
Now back to your
regular programming.
Best
Darc --for the admins
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 21:03:50 1999
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From: "B Collett"
<hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>,
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 18:06:23
+1300
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I am not sure, they were with my engine on a jet boat..
But all
should be fine soon, I am installing a LINK computer to control
te
injectors.
I am using a HKS F-Con.
Just running the engine in on the
standard injectors at the moment
though.
Thanks.
Henry
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, 16 November 1999
08:05
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc Injectors
>Short Admin
Warning : Please do not use HTML (Rich-Text) in your
post.
Onyl
>use normal Text. Thanks !
>
>> I have just
installed my new engine, Forged Pistons, 15'Gs and
550cc
>injectors.
>
>Good decision !
>
>> My
injectors have a different Ohm requirement so I have some
resistors
>hooked into the injectors, I am
>> not sure if
this is working and my car is running VERY rich.
>
>The question
from Matt is right : What fuel control are you using ?
>
>The two
stock fuel maps are too small and cannot adapt for the bigger
>injectors.
Even 440cc are too large and the figures are out of the map.
>
>What
injectors have you choosen ? Our system uses a resistor pack for
the
>injectors and if the current to drive them is different, then also
the
>driving parts must be changed. As Matt stated correctly, the
driver
>transistors are in danger !
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 16 21:11:29 1999
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From: "B Collett"
<hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To: <robby@swissonline.ch>,
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 550cc Injectors
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 18:14:02
+1300
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I think my Link computer will fix the problem with the injectors,
these same
injectors on the jet boat were using a Link computer.Approx
$400 US, pretty
cheap , New Zealand made! :-)
I know the F-Con is rather
Old, but I can't afford everything especially
after the engine. It is also a
3200cc now with slightly lower compression.
I also insatlled a Lambda Link,
measures my O2. Rich still, and how come it
dosn't sow lean when I am using
my standard injectors and 15psi??, maybe it
isn't earthed correctly.
What
CO readings should it have, it goes right to 9% when only at
around
10psi.
Thanks
Henry
-----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, 16 November 1999
08:28
Subject: Re: Team3S: 550cc Injectors
>> I am running a
HKS F-CON, it is running on 0 but still very rich, I am
sure
>> the
injectors are not compatable or the auto electrician wired them
to
the
>> resistors wrong..
>
>Well, the F-CON is not
the first choice for our cars. It may work but not
>perfect. But you'll
find out when you have the correct injectors.
>
>> Do you think I
need a new computer to handle the new injectors?
>
>Yes, get rid of
the F-CON and leave the ECU where it is.
>
>> Opps I meant
180MPH+ that possible?
>
>Yes, but you must run on about 1.3 bars of
boost and you need something to
cool
>down the excessive discharge
temperature. I runned 174mph (the speedo
showed
>mroe than 300km/h)
with boost at about 1.25 bars (you know how I killed the
>engine) More is
very hard to get as it needs a lot more tourque to
maintain
the
>speed.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 17 01:09:11 1999
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Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 04:08:13 EST
Subject: Team3S: AWD mini-vans
To:
eek@majordomo.net, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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does anyone know
how the rear in the AWD mini-vans are setup? are the coil or
leaf springs?
what is the power split between front and rear? how much power
can it
handle?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 17 01:35:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 03:38:26
-0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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To: Bill Wagner
<wagner@sprynet.com>
CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: REPORTING GETRAG FAILURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Bill
Wagner wrote:
> There is a guy (JC) on the www.3si.org web site that's
collecting data
> about Getrag failures. IF YOUR GETRAG HAS FAILED ON YOU,
PLEASE GO TO
> THAT WEB SITE AND FILL IN YOUR
INFO.
Bill,
For everybody's benefit, what area
of the site? I could not find this.
> --
-Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
'93 Wrangler
4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 17 02:32:38 1999
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Honey I punched my
honey combs
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 02:37:58 -0800
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Hello again everybody,
Here's the deal: Joshua Prince is
selling me a set of honey combs for my MAF
unit. However, the MAF unit of his
is not really working. However, the honey
combs are still in tact. The
question is can I swap the honey combs from his MAF
unit to my current unit
without running into any problems?
According to Joshua, (and we have been
conversing for some time), "There is a
plastic piece which is attached
by like 4 screws which hold them in. If you
unscrew those bolts they
will fall out and then you can just place them in your
unit." I just
need to know for sure that I can do this; otherwise it would be
pointless for
me to buy it as I might just have to buy a new or used MAF unit
with the
honey combs in tact and the unit working.
Finally, for those of u who are
using the ARC unit, I am aware that it replaces
the stock MAF unit; Anyone,
willing to part with their old MAF unit and sell it
to me for a reasonable
price? I just need to be sure before I go ahead and just
buy the honey combs
and start inserting it into my current MAF unit when
actually it is not
possible. Haven't really asked anyone this question, except
for
Errin.
I am typing in plain text using font 12 and Times New Roman and it
looks really
weird. Hmm...Errin...I hope this looks ok. Somebody tell me if
there is
something wrong.
Some help in trying to decide whether to get
a new MAF vs. just honey combs
would be REAL NICE! :)
Thanks
people,
Julian Ng
94 GTO Pearl
White
gtovr4@postalzone.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 09:34:23
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From: Francis Morice <fas3@earthlink.net>
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To: Darcy Gunnlaugson
<wce@telus.net>
CC: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re
Clutches
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Darcy,
I
have been reading the posts on the clutch debate over the last few
weeks and
have
decided to share my experiences with RPS. I also bought the TCC
back in
June(not part
of the group purchase) and had it installed.
After driving close to
1000 miles on it I
decided to try a drag type
launch and it slipped in 1st and 2nd. To
it's credit it
never
slipped again until a month ago when it started slipping in 4th,
5th,
and 6th,
which led me to believe that the disc had been worn down. I
found this
to be true when
I had the car in for service a couple weeks ago
and they had the tranny
out. The
service tech said the disc was worn
down to the rivets. I only took
the car to the
track once,
with 9 runs.
I spoke with Rob at RPS and he said he would replace it
under warranty,
but he needed
me to send the disc and the pressure plate
before he could send me the
new disc. I'm a
little upset because now
my car is going to sit on a friend's lift for 2
to 3 weeks
while I wait
for the new one to come. Also Rob is sending my $150 check
for
my
troubles, when I thought he was giving $200, as a fellow MN 3/s member
received.
Needless to say I would probably not buy another RPS product in
the
future. By the
way, I only put about 5k miles on the car with
the new clutch. Mods so
far: HKS
megaflow, magnacore wires,
gutted pre-cats, test pipe and bleeder valve
set at
14psi.
Later,
Francis
96RT/TT
13.13 @104.87
Darcy
Gunnlaugson wrote:
> >> The failure percentile is VERY
low.
> >
> >Hmm, it really sounded like at least half the 3/S
Turbo Carbon Claw
> clutches that came out of the group purchase were bad,
with a significant
> number of the "replacement" clutches also
being bad. That's a pretty high
> failure percentage in my
book. I'd think something like 5% might be
> acceptable, but 50%+ is
not. There was also mention of RPS making promises
> to send a check
to help with the costs incurred in having a clutch
> replacement re-done,
and then checks being a different amount or no check at
> all.
>
>
> >Since I didn't buy one of those clutches, I won't comment any
more than
> that.
>
> Hmmm...a lot of comment there Matt, for
no personal experience with the
> product .
>
> I'd be real
interested in the actual failure rate of these clutches, as I am
> a
purchaser myself. However, mine is not installed, so I am not in the
>
position to comment, let alone pass on heresy as to their attributes
or
> lack thereof. My treatment by RPS was impeccable, however, and I
would ask
> for those in the group purchase to comment as Andy
recently has, as to
> their satisfaction or not ,with the product, and the
customer service. Only
> in this way are rumors dispelled or given
credence. Brad? Roger? Others?
>
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 17 07:48:08 1999
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From:
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To:
Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS clutch
experiences(long)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 09:47:37 -0600
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I'm one of the
MN3S members that has had some experiences with RPS and their
clutches.
I'll tell you my story and you can make up your minds.
I purchased my RPS
TCC after the group purchase(got mine in June). I
installed it myself,
had the flywheel resurfaced per spec with new TOB.
After installing, I
immediately noticed that the pedal pressure seemed
lighter than the stock
pedal pressure(I figured it was because of new TOB
and lube on input shaft)
and that it "chattered" really bad when starting to
move.
This "chattering" was pretty extreme, but I though it was normal
with
a "performance" clutch(my wife didn't like it
though).
Well, I put the 500mi on with BC turned off(6psi) and then eased
into some
more aggressive driving. Rather than just doing 4-5K clutch
dumps, I would
get more aggressive with the throttle while letting the clutch
slip a
little. This led to MAJOR slipping....even to the point that
when I shifted
into 2nd and hit the gas(with clutch completely engaged) the
clutch would
slip. I then put a few more miles on it before being
aggressive again.
The next time I did a 4-5K clutch dump and the clutch would
slip, but not as
bad as when I slipped it a little. I just could not
get the tires to spin.
I did this a few times over the next couple of days
with the same
result(clutch had about 700mi on it).
At this point I
let Matt at AA know about my problems and he called me back
after talking
with Rob at RPS. This is when Rob said that there had been
some quality
issues with the clutch disks(no mention of the pressure plate).
Rob said that
he was making up some new disks for the people that were
having problems and
would ship them as soon as they were ready along with a
$200 check to help
offset the installation costs. I wanted a new clutch
disk in my hands
before I took mine out...so that was part of the bargain
as
well.
Interestingly, the clutch seemed to get better over
time. The chatter
lessened and it seemed to start to grab better.
It took about 1.5 months to
get the new clutch and I had about 1500mi on the
old one.
When the new clutch came, opened the box and guess what....I got
the clutch
disk AND pressure plate. It seems that after checking the
pressure plates,
RPS found some quality issues in the PPs as well.
Their clamping force was
less than spec'd. I installed the new
clutch(again turning the flywheel)
and I noticed that the "chatter"
was gone. The clutch was almost silky
smooth from the get-go(as close
to stock as one could expect.) I was
pleased! I thought, even
though the old clutch seemed to get better over
time, there must have been
something wrong with it from the start because of
the excessive chatter and
initial slipping. I sent my old clutch back and a
few weeks later
received my $200 check from RPS.
I now have about 2.5K miles on the
clutch with pretty aggressive street
driving, one road course drivers school,
one drag race(1.8 60's with one 1.7
60') and it is holding fine.
While
waiting for my new clutch I installed(Julyish) the TCC in another
members car
(This was supposed to be one of the new disks). After the
install I
noticed that there was little or no chatter(compared to my old
clutch).
And he seemed to be happy with the clutch after the 500mi BI
period. He
drag raced it one weekend and also seemed happy....In Sept I
received a call
from him stating that the clutch feel has
changed...chattering more and
possibly slipping. We were supposed to get
together the next weekend
and I was going to check it out. We never got
together and a few weeks
later(Oct) I got another call from him stating that
the clutch was indeed
slipping in 4th and 5th. He called RPS and the
process started
again.
He had the car in a couple a weeks ago for service and they had to
remove
the tranny/clutch. They said that the clutch disk was down to
the rivets
with only ~4k-5k miles on it. Doesn't seem possible unless
the disk was
defective or was slipping all the time?? He called RPS and
ROB said that
this can sometimes happen if the resins in the carbon fiber
layers don't
cure properly. The layers will actually peel off
decreasing the life of the
clutch disk. He has to send his disk and
pressure plate in for inspection
and replacement before he gets his $150
check for installation.
Well, this concerns me because my car is now
parked for the winter and my
warranty is going to be up before I get any more
miles on it. It is holding
very well and the clutch feel is very good
now. But how long is it going to
last. I was hoping for 15K-20K
miles 2-3 years for me. But if I start
driving in the spring and only
get another 1 or 2k out of the clutch I will
not be pleased for $500 plus my
time!!
This is sooner than I planned, but I'm going to pull the tranny
again this
winter and replace the 1-2 synchro(I was going to wait until it
was really
bad). While the tranny is out I'm going to inspect the
clutch disk for wear
and try to get it covered if it is wearing
excessively.
These are my experiences.....All of this leads to two
questions.
How was I treated by RPS?
Very well...It did take a while
to get my new clutch, but I wanted
them to have their process issues
straightened out before they made my
clutch. I received everything I
was promised.
Would I buy/recommend another RPS clutch?
With what I
know right now...NO. If, when I pull my tranny again
and the clutch is
wearing ok then probably Yes.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT(mods resulting
in ~400hp)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Wed Nov 17 08:43:18 1999
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From: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
CC: "Paul T. Golley"
<ptgolley@hiwaay.net>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Help with S-AVC-R Set-up
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Ken Middaugh
wrote:
>
> > >> Question No. 1: Does the learning process
simply change the actual BADC
> > >> to a value that facilitates
your selection of maximum boost?
> >
> > >The BADC you
specify is not changed during the learning process - it is
> >
>always used as an estimate of how much the solenoid must work to
achieve
> > >the desired boost setting. The learning process
is more of an
> > >optimization of how boost is controlled based on
the characteristics of
> > >your engine.
> >
> >
You're over my head here. What other than BADC can the boost
controller
> > affect? I choose what max boost I want, and it
modifies BADC to try to
> > achieve it. Is my thinking incorrect
here?
>
> I'm not sure about your style, but this is indeed how the
NEW SAVC-R operates.
> If learn mode is enabled, duty values are learned
and modified in order to
> achieve the specified boost. If learn is
disabled, the duty values remain the
> same.
Interesting.
With the previous generation SAVC-R (which Paul and I
have), if the BADC is
set too high, overboost will NEVER go away.
Overall boost response will
improve as time goes on (eg- levels off
faster, less hesitation throughout
rev band, etc.), but an excessive
BADC will always result in pressures higher
than the set limit. Not
sure what is going on behind the
scenes.
This gets back to the old discussion about why the BADC is there
at
all. The pressure sensor tells the unit everything it needs to know
for
it to come up with its own BADC curve, so why is the user involved
in
this process at all? This is why I consider it a "feature"
(loosely) -
despite a max boost setting, I can use the BADC to get a
consistent
temporary overboost, which is fine (and desirable, IMO) since
knock is
less of an issue in these cases.
At any rate, Paul's SAVC-R
seems to be ignoring the BADC altogether - he
should not be seeing 1.2 bar
with such low BADC settings!
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom
braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 17 10:12:49 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov
1999 13:17:25 -0500
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: REPORTING GETRAG FAILURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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To report the
failure:
1. Go to www.3si.org
2. When the page loads, click on the
"message board" button
3. The bulletin board menu will show up.
Click on "anything goes"
4. Another menu will show up. Click on
"3000GT/Stealth International"
5. All the posts will show up.
6. If you haven't registered, look under the "Post New Topic" and
click
on register and follow the instructions
7. Return to the bulletin
board (post listing) and look for the topic:
"Getrag Tranny
failures (post failures only, no discussions)"
8. Post your
failure.
It's EASY!!!!
Good Luck,
Bill
Wagner
Jeff Crabtree wrote:
>
> Bill Wagner
wrote:
>
> > There is a guy (JC) on the www.3si.org web site
that's collecting data
> > about Getrag failures. IF YOUR GETRAG HAS
FAILED ON YOU, PLEASE GO TO
> > THAT WEB SITE AND FILL IN YOUR
INFO.
>
> Bill,
>
> For
everybody's benefit, what area of the site? I could not find this.
>
> > --
>
> -Jeff Crabtree
>
'91 Stealth R/T TT(3/SI
#499)
> '93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
>
St. Louis, MO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 17 10:13:02 1999
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Date:
Wed, 17 Nov 1999 10:12:49 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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To: 3000gtvr4
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Honey I punched my honey combs
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> Here's
the deal: Joshua Prince is selling me a set of honey combs for my MAF
>
unit. However, the MAF unit of his is not really working. However, the
honey
> combs are still in tact. The question is can I swap the honey
combs from his MAF
> unit to my current unit without running into any
problems?
Should be if they are the same MAF. Are they the same
cars (VR4s?)?
>
> According to Joshua, (and we have been conversing
for some time), "There is a
> plastic piece which is attached by like
4 screws which hold them in.
Have Joshua send you the plastic
piece and screws too if you need them.
> If you
> unscrew those
bolts they will fall out and then you can just place them in your
>
unit." I just need to know for sure that I can do this; otherwise it would
be
> pointless for me to buy it as I might just have to buy a new or used
MAF unit
> with the honey combs in tact and the unit working.
I had
to use needle nose pliers to pull mine out. (I removed the bottom one
for
awhile but have now reinstalled it). Use a 16 penny nail or a hex
wrench to
straighten out the honeycombs if you need to.
--
I'm
surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 17 11:37:31 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov
1999 13:32:39 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Junk/Grinding Trans
Needed! RTP!
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I need broken
and/or grinding gears 3000GT VR4 or
Stealth TwinTurbo transmissions,
cheap.
Ideally I would like both a 5 speed and a 6 speed.
These will be
going to a fabricator with the idea of
MAKING PARTS/re-machining so they
actually
WORK when done, and so the stock (JUNK)
synchronizer mechanisms
are improved to work
far longer and better! They have experience
doing
exactly this with Getrags already but not yet with
ours. I am
sending them a NEW set of synchros
I had saved for myself, for them to
inspect.
I am willing to pay but again, I want a broken or
grinding
one so not much. Even if case is
cracked, that is ok. Broken
transfer cases too.
These are going to be donated out of the goodness
of
my heart :) to the fabricator to tear down, inspect,
figure out how to do the
job, and thus help us ALL.
Getrag no longer has any repair parts, they
have
been sold off and sent to CRS, the rebuilder company
that has taken
over the rebuilding business. They do
NOT sell parts, so we are all
stuck in a worse situation
than before because at least before, I could sneak
some
parts out the back door...NO MORE.
Getrag/Mitsubishi are NOT
going to help us, I have been
fighting this battle for years now, and my
sources are dry.
Help me help us all...we need to move
forward!
Sincerely,
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 17 14:00:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 15:49:31 -0600
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: ECS connectors -- how do
you get them off?
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I'm taking my 94
VR4 in to get the Ground Control Eibachs put in tomorrow
morning, so I
removed the rear interior shelf cover assembly, shelf
catcher, and whatnot on
both sides, to make it a little easier for my
mechanic.
Then I got to
the ECS wiring on top of the rear shocks. Hmmm... How does
that come
off there?
I've tugged and pulled and turned and prodded and looked at my
CD-ROM shop
manual, and can't figure out how to get that sucker offa the top
of the
shock. Does it screw on? Plug on? Press fit on?
The shop manual
says to remove:
1. shock absorber upper mounting nut
2. ECS
connector
3. Cap
Doesn't sound right. Seems like I should take the ECS
connector off BEFORE
I remove the shock absorber upper mounting
nut.
Before I stick a screwdriver in there and pry it off or beat on the
ECS
with a hammer, perhaps one of you fine folk can tell me:
How does
the ECS connection on top of the rear shock come off?
Is the front ECS
connection the same?
Do I gotta take off the entire interior rear
trim panel to get at the rear
connector? That looks like a giant
PITA.
Thanks, guys.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/tomorrow I'm gettin'
DOWN!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 17 17:54:13 1999
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Wed, 17 Nov 1999 19:46:24
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From: "Brad Bedell" <Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To:
<fas3@earthlink.net>, "Darcy Gunnlaugson"
<wce@telus.net>
Cc: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re
Clutches
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 20:00:04 -0600
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Plan on two to
three months.. Took Rob at least that long. I can dig
up
dates if you want me to.
I never received my 200.00 check as
promised, he tried to send me a
"rebuilt" pressure plate that was
under spec, and he also lost the letter
that I sent mapping out the problems
that I had.
I will never buy another RPS product, nor will I ever
encourage anyone else
to. As time goes by, I have a brand new RPS
clutch sitting on my floor. I
have not decided to install it as of
yet...
I would consider any offers on this clutch for over 300.00 Highest
bidder
anyone? Its brand new and comes with a
sticker.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Francis Morice
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 1999 3:34 AM
To:
Darcy Gunnlaugson
Cc: Team3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re
Clutches
Darcy,
I have been reading the posts on the clutch debate
over the last few
weeks and have
decided to share my experiences with
RPS. I also bought the TCC back in
June(not part
of the group
purchase) and had it installed. After driving close to
1000 miles on it
I
decided to try a drag type launch and it slipped in 1st and 2nd.
To
it's credit it
never slipped again until a month ago when it started
slipping in 4th,
5th, and 6th,
which led me to believe that the disc
had been worn down. I found this
to be true when
I had the car in
for service a couple weeks ago and they had the tranny
out.
The
service tech said the disc was worn down to the rivets. I
only took
the car to the
track once, with 9 runs.
I spoke with Rob
at RPS and he said he would replace it under warranty,
but he needed
me to
send the disc and the pressure plate before he could send me the
new
disc. I'm a
little upset because now my car is going to sit on a
friend's lift for 2
to 3 weeks
while I wait for the new one to come.
Also Rob is sending my $150 check
for my
troubles, when I thought he was
giving $200, as a fellow MN 3/s member
received.
Needless to say I would
probably not buy another RPS product in the
future. By the
way, I
only put about 5k miles on the car with the new clutch. Mods
so
far: HKS
megaflow, magnacore wires, gutted pre-cats, test pipe
and bleeder valve
set at
14psi.
Later,
Francis
96RT/TT
13.13 @104.87
Darcy
Gunnlaugson wrote:
> >> The failure percentile is VERY
low.
> >
> >Hmm, it really sounded like at least half the 3/S
Turbo Carbon Claw
> clutches that came out of the group purchase were bad,
with a significant
> number of the "replacement" clutches also
being bad. That's a pretty high
> failure percentage in my
book. I'd think something like 5% might be
> acceptable, but 50%+ is
not. There was also mention of RPS making
promises
> to send a
check to help with the costs incurred in having a clutch
> replacement
re-done, and then checks being a different amount or no check
at
>
all.
> >
> >Since I didn't buy one of those clutches, I won't
comment any more than
> that.
>
> Hmmm...a lot of comment
there Matt, for no personal experience with the
> product
.
>
> I'd be real interested in the actual failure rate of these
clutches, as I
am
> a purchaser myself. However, mine is not installed,
so I am not in the
> position to comment, let alone pass on heresy
as to their attributes or
> lack thereof. My treatment by RPS was
impeccable, however, and I would ask
> for those in the group purchase to
comment as Andy recently has, as to
> their satisfaction or not
,with the product, and the customer service.
Only
> in this way are
rumors dispelled or given credence. Brad? Roger? Others?
>
>
Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 17 19:25:46 1999
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From:
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To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS clutch
experiences(long)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 20:15:36 -0700
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I'm selling my
VPC and rc 550 injectors for the 3000/stealth model. The vpc
comes with 2
chips one for mile high one for sealevel. The injectors were
balanced back in
April of 99. I'm asking $800 for the both. Also have the
computer from the
car as well if anyinterests (yes it works just fine going
to a whole new
computer system) It was worked by hennessee and g-force $400
if any questions
drop me a line. Or if anyone wants to forward this off to
any prospective
buyer's please do so :)
92 3000 GTO S.C.
Soon to be exactly what the
plates say :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla
x4733
http://members.xoom.com/palamarap
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 17 19:37:39 1999
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From:
"Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: computer,vpc,and
injectors for sale
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 1999 20:27:03 -0700
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I'm selling my
VPC and rc 550 injectors for the 3000/stealth model. The vpc
comes with 2
chips one for mile high one for sealevel. The injectors were
balanced back in
April of 99. I'm asking $800 for the both. Also have the
computer from the
car as well if anyinterests (yes it works just fine going
to a whole new
computer system) It was worked by hennessee and g-force $400
if any questions
drop me a line. Or if anyone wants to forward this off to
any prospective
buyer's please do so :)
92 3000 GTO S.C.
Soon to be exactly what the
plates say :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla
x4733
http://members.xoom.com/palamarap
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 18 02:19:15 1999
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From: "Max Hjorth"
<max.hjorth@swipnet.se>
To: "Stealth-3000gt"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Shop manual
Date:
Thu, 18 Nov 1999 11:20:42 +0100
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Anyone know were
I can download the shop manual?
Max 3000GT -92
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 03:01:19 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Max Hjorth"
<max.hjorth@swipnet.se>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Shop manual
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 02:59:13 -0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Max Hjorth
<max.hjorth@swipnet.se>
>Anyone know were I can download the
shop manual?
I don't think there's any one spot where you can find
the entire
manual. You can order the manual on CD and get some samples
from
Vineet's website, http://manualcd.dsm.org
.
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 18 09:39:14 1999
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From: "Rob Lewin"
<sdholo@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Transaxle removal-a few q's
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 09:38:51
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ok, I'm going to
take the plunge and attempt to remove the transaxle out of
my '91 Stealth TT
this weekend. As this is my first attempt, I'm hoping to
benefit from the
hard won wisdom of the list as to any tricks, traps and
special tools I
really should be aware of.
I've been following the Clutch thread and the
consensus seems that an OEM
clutch will be best for my non modded car.
Anybody know of a good supplier
besides the dealers? I understand this is a
good idea to swap out with the
transaxle removal. Any special info there I
should know of?
I do have the shop manual, but they do assume that you're
a professional
mechanic and leave out a lot of steps. I'm planning on
disassembly this
weekend, buying the parts (seals, bearings, and if
necessary a rebuilt trans
from md auto) next week, and reassembling the
following weekend. Is this
reasonable or are the parts going to be very hard
to find?
Thanks for the help!
Rob Lewin
'91 Stealth R/T
TT
______________________________________________________
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Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 18 14:42:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 16:26:22 -0600
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Kit in at
last!
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Just got back
from Denny's Muffler & Brake here in Cedar Rapids, where we
spent the
morning installing the Ground Control kit with Eibach springs,
then doing an
alignment. I've had the kit all summer, and just now got the
time to put it
in.
I hate to rub it in, but here goes: Total cost was $147.00 for
the
installation ($100) AND four-wheel alignment ($40) and tax ($7).
And they
let me kibitz, hang out, and annoy the mechanics the whole time.
(Probably
would have been even less if I had sat out front and read a
magazine.)
Thanks to all the folks who contributed advice and expertise,
especially
Bob Forrest who sent me a compilation of information from the
list, and
dbretton (Dave?), who put up an entire web page with text and
photos
describing the installation. I printed it all out, plus relevant pages
from
the CD-ROM shop manual, and put it all into a 3-ring binder for the
benefit
of the mechanics.
Now that I've been through this once, I
could probably tackle it myself. So
could you.
My guy knew what he was
doing when it came to struts and springs, and
completed the install in 3 hr.
Once he got all the struts off and apart, he
took about 30 minutes to work
his way carefully through the skimpy Ground
Control instructions, look up
stuff in the 3-ring binder, and do the first
side on the rear.
Anyone
who has been through this knows how baffling it can be the first
time (I
guess this part goes here, eh? They gotta be kidding. No, that
doesn't work.
What do Bretton's instructions say? Look at the pictures. OK,
I see. It goes
THIS way). If you try this yourself, be sure to find
dbretton's web page
(he's at dbretton@ibm.net, but I don't know his web
site
address).
Then it was only 15 minutes for the other side. Same with the
fronts. When
we put it on the alignment rack, it sat perfectly level with
27-1/4 in.
between the fender lip and ground on all four wheels. Actually, it
looks
lower in the front, but the ruler doesn't lie. I wish I had measured
it
before, to see how much it went down. At a guess, I'd say we went down
1
in. in the front and a half-inch in the back. We took it down as far as
we
could without cutting anything.
My purpose here was not to slam
the car, but to cure its high speed push.
Still, it woulda been nice to bring
it down within an inch of the tires in
the rear, like it did in the
front.
Two questions I need to ask the group:
1. My castor is off
a little in the front now (it's within spec, though),
and there is no way to
adjust it. So my alignment guy compensated for it
with camber adjustments
(please don't ask me to explain this front end
magic). He said it would be
good if I could find a camber adjustment plate
that allowed castor
adjustments too. Anybody been through this? What did
you buy? Did it
work?
2. I am now running about 1.25 degrees negative camber in the rear
on both
sides. I showed the alignment guys all your suggestions about
drilling out
and elongating the upper control arm mount (per Ron Thompson's
advice and
diagram), but they did not want to. They said there was no way to
ensure
that the mounting bolt would stay there, and eventually it would
loosen and
allow the control arm to move around, especially the way I drive
on tracks.
They asked me to check with youse guys to see if this is indeed a
problem,
or if you have developed anything to prevent the control arm from
moving.
So, have any of you experienced any movement in the control arm? How
did
you prevent it from loosening and moving back and forth?
I can't
tell for sure how much improvement in handling resulted from the
installation
(yet), but on the Sport setting it corners like a 3700 lb
go-kart. On Tour,
it just feels a little more stiff than stock -- but with
more travel, if
that's possible. As I recall, I got 650 springs in front
and 550 springs in
the rear (Model numbers are 6550 and 9415, respectively,
so maybe it's 550
and 415).
After hearing you guys in California, New York, Boston and
elsewhere
complain about your local dealers and service providers, I consider
myself
lucky to have a competent and reasonably inexpensive Mitsu dealer AND
a
superb brake/suspension shop in the same town. There are some benefits
to
living near the end of the world (Cedar Rapids is NOT the end of the
world,
but you can see it from here).
Next projects:
New Getrag
(under warranty)
Brad Bedell's Big Red calipers & SS brake lines (when
Brad builds the
brackets)
Redline boost controller (when I figure out the
cryptic instructions)
Twin brake cooling ducts. (when I get the Big Reds
on)
New exhaust.(when all the rest is done)
Hope I can get it all done
before the snow flies.
Next March, I'll go after those Supras, TT AWD
911 Porsches, and M3s with
my 400 hp, lowered suspension, and better braking
VR4. Can't wait to shake
them up!
Zeroes,
Rich/old poop/94
VR4/only slightly slammed
.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 15:02:13 1999
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From: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT
Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ground
Control Kit in at last!
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 16:13:33
-0600
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I have just the eibach springs for lowering my car installed (not a
whole
kit), and it's about a 1 - 1.3" drop all around. Can anybody
point me in
the direction of that info on what to do to get the car aligned
properly
after it's been lowered (I believe you said bob forrest has that
info)? I
took it to get a 4 wheel alignment at a place here that has
good experience
working with lowered cars. It's all within spec from
what I can tell, but
you can see if you sight down the side of the car that
the rear tires aren't
perfectly vertical like the fronts (the top of the
tires are sticking in
towards the center of the car, and the bottom of the
tires are sticking out
away from the car a little bit). I'm curious as
to if this is OK?
>1. My castor is off a little in the front now (it's
within spec, though),
>and there is no way to adjust it. So my alignment
guy compensated for it
>with camber adjustments (please don't ask me to
explain this front end
>magic). He said it would be good if I could find a
camber adjustment plate
>that allowed castor adjustments too. Anybody been
through this? What did
>you buy? Did it work?
I remember seeing on
www.tirerack.com under their suspension area that there
is also an eibach
alignment kit for adjusting the camber of the wheel
properly. I was
told by the performance shop where I had my springs
installed that that kit
is only needed if you go too far below 1". Again,
I'm not a
mechanical genius when it comes to cars, but perhaps this could
solve your
problem?
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
"-Do
you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first
thoughts?"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 16:02:56 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell'"
<benson@2015.com>,
3000GT
Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground
Control Kit in at last!
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 16:01:10
-0800
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Benson...
If the alignment is correct, there should not be an
angle like you describe.
Aside from the extra pressure on the suspension
components, you're going to
wear your tires unevenly. This is why they make
adjustment kits. If it's a
"little" out, you might choose to leave
it alone and watch how the tires
wear. If it's a "lot" out, you
should consider a kit. BTW...when I added my
Eibach's, they got the alignment
within one degree of the factory spec. I
can't see any angle and haven't seen
any uneven tire wear in 5K miles.
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Benson
"elmagoo" Russell [mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent: Thursday, November
18, 1999 2:14 PM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Kit in
at last!
<snip>It's all within spec from what I can tell,
but
you can see if you sight down the side of the car that the rear tires
aren't
perfectly vertical like the fronts (the top of the tires are sticking
in
towards the center of the car, and the bottom of the tires are sticking
out
away from the car a little bit). I'm curious as to if this is
OK?
<snip>
Latuh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 16:29:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:14:19 -0600
To: "Benson
\"elmagoo\" Russell"
<benson@2015.com>,
"3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From:
Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control
Kit in at last!
In-Reply-To:
<00d201bf3212$27a83b40$10c9c9c9@benson>
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>I remember
seeing on www.tirerack.com under their suspension area that there
>is also
an eibach alignment kit for adjusting the camber of the
wheel
>properly. I was told by the performance shop where I had my
springs
>installed that that kit is only needed if you go too far below
1". Again,
>I'm not a mechanical genius when it comes to cars,
but perhaps this could
>solve your problem?
>
Could be. Let's see
if anybody else has used it.
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 18 16:48:56 1999
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Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 18:33:33 -0600
To: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>,
"'Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell'"
<benson@2015.com>,
3000GT
Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Kit in
at last!
In-Reply-To:
<2B6D2E7F9E0AD311AB0500805FB7ECD00F43EF@exchange01.plaza.ds
.adp.com>
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Precedence: bulk
. If it's a
"little" out, you might choose to leave it alone and watch how
the
tires
>wear. If it's a "lot" out, you should consider a
kit.
All parameters are within factory specs, but I can't get the same
negative
camber on both wheels because my alignment guy had to set one
wheel
slightly positive and one slightly negative to offset the castor.
Still,
all are within specs. Car drives OK, but I'd like to have a little
negative
camber all the way around.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 18:18:42 1999
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Message-ID:
<001b01bf3234$e8176a00$b4811bce@rico>
From: "Ricardo Cousar"
<rcousar@datawest.net>
To: "Sirius 3000GT Mail List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo_zet
Date:
Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:22:19 -0700
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Does anyone know
anything about the product called the turbo-zet ?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 19:13:05 1999
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Message-ID: <0.384ebdb4.25661a1f@aol.com>
Date: Thu, 18 Nov
1999 22:12:31 EST
Subject: Team3S: Wanted: 2 stock rims, 91-93 VR4
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Looking for 2
stock (17 x 8.5) rims for '91-'93 VR4 (same rims for all these
years,
right?) or any junkyard that might have some rims. I have 2 that are
slightly out of round and need to be replaced. Please Email
privately.
Thanks,
Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 18 19:34:20 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Ricardo Cousar"
<rcousar@datawest.net>,
"Sirius 3000GT Mail List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: TurboZet, eRAM
electric superchargers...
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 19:32:39
-0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Ricardo
Cousar
<rcousar@datawest.net>
>Does anyone know anything
about the product called the turbo-zet ?
Please, when asking a
question to the list about a product like
Turbo Zet, unless it's common
knowledge what the product is, tell
folks it's an electric
supercharger... Rich Leroy helped Rommel
Dizon install one in his
car. They didn't notice much difference,
and they didn't dyno it.
And Rommel no longer has the car...
I did a test on the eRAM electric
supercharger, but haven't done a
final install, because I was hoping to
redesign the NT intake system
first (so I could fit the Super eRAM...).
I posted results to the
list on July 29; here is a
re-post:
-----------------------
Overview
--------------
I got
together with Mark Kibort, designer of the eRAM and Super eRAM
Electric
Superchargers on Tuesday. We installed (rigged with gaffer
tape)
an
eRAM electric supercharger on my '94 Stealth base NT (which
already
was
slightly modded with K&N FIPK and resonator removed),
doing
before-and-after
dyno runs to determine if it does yield any real
world HP gains.
Well, it
works, and even with a less than optimal
'quickie' install, (blowing
air at
around 40 degrees at the MAS honeycomb,
instead of straight-on), we
got a
real 5 HP in the entire range of 3000
through 5500 RPM. We had
clear repeat
readings (3 runs each on the
dyno at Frey Racing in Mountain View)
of 170 HP
before, and 175 HP after
installing the eRAM. {{{IMPORTANT NOTE:
This is
the HP gain 'Over
and Above' the K&N FIPK & resonator-removal
gains
over
stock... The Stealth base is rated at 164 HP, so the
actual gain of
the
eRAM over stock is *unknown*-- it's somewhere more than
5 and less
than 11
HP!!!}}}
Unfortunately, we couldn't get the Super
eRAM to fit in the limited
dyno
time available, so no test was done on
that model. I'm very
encouraged
that, at least for the non-turbos,
this is a viable way to see
almost double
digit HP gains for under $300,
since I think with a proper in-line
install,
we will see gains of at least
their claimed 4% to 6% (8 to 10 HP for
a base
Stealth, 9 to 14 HP for a
3000GT SL or Stealth R/T). I'm
envisioning 50%
better numbers (or
more) from the Super eRAM... There's already
been some
debate on the
list about whether the eRAM will be effective on the
TTs and
VR-4s, but
I'm hot on this being a good add-on for the non-turbos,
once we
figure out
how to fit them in without trashing the stock intake
'hose'.
First
pictures are up on Mark's website, at the bottom of the
page:
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/www-electricsupercharger-com/era
m_instal
lations.htm
Details
-------------------
We
met at 'The Dyno Room' at Frey Racing, www.freyracing.com , which
is
a
company that's been around for 40 years and have respect in
the
racing
community. Judging from a dozen or so NASCAR types and
SCCA entries
in the
shop, I'd venture that these guys know what they're
doing. All they
do is
try to squeeze every available horsepower from
the cars they work
on. Our
little test on my car (with roughly 1/3
the HP of any of the other
cars in
the shop) was treated with great
respect by their dyno guy, a soft
spoken
ex-racer named Terry Barnard (who
had some interesting suggestions
for
us...). He had me start at
2000rpm, then take the car through 2nd &
3rd to
4th gear and hang at
2000rpm... When he said "go", I banged it to
WOT
through
5500rpm, then backed off and threw it in neutral. It
really
felt
like driving at 120mph (what it said on the speedo), between
the
engine
noise with the hood open and an humongous fan blowing cool air
over
the
engine (the fan was as wide as the Stealth)! Just an aside
(for you
Bay
Area folks)-- Frey Racing will take a group of our
Team3S S/3ks on
one of
their weekend "Dyno Days" and dyno your
car for $60!
Although the eRAM was impressive as hell, I'm almost as
excited by
what
Terry, Mark (and Mark's dad Bob, a former aeronautical
engineer) had
to say
about the segmented intake 'hose' on our cars:
It steals
horsepower! The
friction created by all those segments,
nooks and crannies is
slowing us
down. My summer project will be to
pull out all my old engineering
books,
and try to design a smooth intake
tube that reduces some of the air
resistance that our present system
creates. Any and all input or
assistance
you folks can give me in
this endeavor is encouraged!!!
Anyway, we'll bounce this around some more
on the list, and Mark
himself has
joined Team3S to answer any questions we
may have. I'm working with
my new computer Jennifer Godzilla III, and I
still don't have a
scanner or my digital video camera hooked up, but I'll get
you the
dyno scans and a couple of photos
ASAP.
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 20:04:05 1999
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Reply-To:
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From: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: TurboZet, eRAM
electric superchargers...
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 23:01:54
-0500
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Bob:
Did you ever go any further in
designing a smooth
intake hose for the NT cars? I had the same
impression
when I installed the FIPK and took out the resonator.
The
honeycomb is insuring clean, smooth air through
the MAF.... but beyond that
to the throttle body, there's
nothing but turbulence.
Is the Super eRAM available at this time? What
are the
costs involved, and did it actually meat your initial
impression
of 50%? I'm trying to wring every last HP I can from my
NT
and I just started looking at the turbozet, myself.
Matt at Dynamic Racing also mentioned that I may want
to look into a big bore throttle body as well.
Thanx,
Bob...
-G
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 20:07:24 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From:
"Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control
Kit in at last!
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 21:07:37 -0700
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Precedence: bulk
> 1. My
castor is off a little in the front now (it's within spec, though),
> and
there is no way to adjust it. So my alignment guy compensated for it
>
with camber adjustments (please don't ask me to explain this front end
>
magic). He said it would be good if I could find a camber adjustment
plate
> that allowed castor adjustments too. Anybody been through this?
What did
> you buy? Did it work?
GC makes a generic kit that
requires four mounting holes rather than the
three of the stock setup.
If you don't mind drilling a few holes in the
front strut towers, these are a
great deal and professional quality stuff.
Tein makes them but for more
moolah and they might be hard to get. Cusco
also makes them but for
even more. GC sells the Cusco too, which i think is
a direct bolt-on
deal. If you get the Cusco kit, ask GC to provide you with
a proper
bearing for the top. They'll know what you mean and they are
fairly
cheap. I bought the GC kit. I can't comment on how well they
work
since the car has been neglected for a while. Keep in mind that
these types
of mounts use pillow ball upper mounts and ride quality will be
sacrificed
for better control and high speed stability. Seems like a
fair tradeoff
IMO.
Tein also makes upper pillow ball mounts for the
rear of our cars but they
are not adjustable in any way.
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/only slightly slammed
Barry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 18 20:41:00 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transaxle
removal-a few q's
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 23:27:06 -0800
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bulk
Check out www.wrenchead.com, they have a replacement made by borg
warner for
about
$300 and TOB for $80
-----Original
Message-----
From: Rob Lewin <sdholo@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, November 18, 1999 9:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: Transaxle removal-a few
q's
>ok, I'm going to take the plunge and attempt to remove the
transaxle out of
>my '91 Stealth TT this weekend. As this is my first
attempt, I'm hoping to
>benefit from the hard won wisdom of the list as to
any tricks, traps and
>special tools I really should be aware
of.
>
>I've been following the Clutch thread and the consensus seems
that an OEM
>clutch will be best for my non modded car. Anybody know of a
good supplier
>besides the dealers? I understand this is a good idea to
swap out with the
>transaxle removal. Any special info there I should know
of?
>
>I do have the shop manual, but they do assume that you're a
professional
>mechanic and leave out a lot of steps. I'm planning on
disassembly this
>weekend, buying the parts (seals, bearings, and if
necessary a rebuilt
trans
>from md auto) next week, and reassembling
the following weekend. Is this
>reasonable or are the parts going to be
very hard to find?
>
>Thanks for the help!
>
>Rob
Lewin
>'91 Stealth R/T
TT
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Nov 18 20:46:47 1999
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From: "Jim
Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <beking@home.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<000e01bf3243$9d24de60$88c10118@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground
Control Kit in at last!
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 20:43:57
-0800
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> Barry King wrote:
> GC makes a generic kit that
requires four mounting holes rather than the
> three of the stock
setup. If you don't mind drilling a few holes in the
> front strut
towers, these are a great deal and professional quality
stuff.
=======================================================
This is the
same setup that I have and I'm pleased with it --- however ----
the needle
bearing just under the pillow ball is damaging the upper race.
Tony at GC
sent me a replacement and it damaged the race in a matter
of 50 miles. If any
one has occasion to remove the GC upper spring retainer
and bearing take a
look to see if the race is damaged. This bearing is what
allows the spring to
rotate without making that strange " sproinggg " sound.
I'm not
sure if sproinggg has two or three g's.
Jim Berry
>>> 93 stealth TT
---- "arrest me
red"
K&N FIPK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz
SSBC
--- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
---
GC/Eibach 600# F/350# R --- GC caster/camber
plate
Yokohama AVS sport
255x40x17
Porsch/Brembo [ big red ] brakes --- KVR 315mm
rotors
Roadrace engineering rear strut
tower
Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110
mph
=========================================================
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 19 00:24:51 1999
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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 09:25:52
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To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP
GroupPurchase
References:
<38109D97.F9B534F@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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FYI, forwarded
from the 3Si board :
Here's what we came up with for a group buy on the
GT-PRO Split Second:
Normal Price $1049.00
Purchase Price with 15
people $949.00
Purchase Price with 25 People $899.00
For Details,
please check out our website at www.dynamicracing1.com and look
under Monthly
Specials or give us a call at (505) 430-4850.
Thanks,
Dan 'Dynamic
Racing'
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Nov 19 02:11:07 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: Autotrader.com
buy/sell S/3k's...
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 01:57:54 -0800
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bulk
Just a quick note for everybody's reference files... I checked
to
see if any S/3K's were for sale within 200 miles of the San
Francisco
area. I found 27 Stealths and 52 3000GTs in all years
and
flavors. Lots of private sellers. Good fast
site...
www.autotrader.com
F
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control
Kit in at last!
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 17:55:36 -0800
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WHat?
You
have one rear wheel with neg. camber, and the other with positive
camber?
THAT has got to handle well..weird. Will corner great when
heeled over on the
neg wheel, but skid out from behind you on the pos camber
wheel.
Who cares what caster is, caster just makes the 'feel' of the
wheel different in
how the car wants to straighten itself out, and how large
the 'dead zone' is at
the center of the wheel in turning
transitions.
:-----Original Message-----
:From: Merritt
[mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
:Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999 4:34
PM
:To: Chris Winkley; 'Benson "elmagoo" Russell'; 3000GT
Mailing
:Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Kit in at last!
:
:
:.
If it's a "little" out, you might choose to leave it alone
:and
watch how
:the tires
:>wear. If it's a "lot" out, you should
consider a kit.
:
:All parameters are within factory specs, but I can't
get the
:same negative
:camber on both wheels because my alignment guy
had to set one wheel
:slightly positive and one slightly negative to offset
the
:castor. Still,
:all are within specs. Car drives OK, but I'd like to
have a
:little negative
:camber all the way around.
:
:Rich/old
poop
:
:For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
:http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
:
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Fri, 19 Nov 1999 21:58:09 -0600
To: "Mohler, Jeff"
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>,
3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Kit in
at last!
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At 05:55 PM
11/19/99 -0800, Mohler, Jeff wrote:
>WHat?
>You have one rear wheel
with neg. camber, and the other with positive camber?
No, on the front.
My mechanic went into a long dissertation on how to
correct castor by
changing camber, but I didn't follow it all. Besides,
it's only a teeny bit
off, and everything is within factory specs.
My problem is that I'd like
to have negative camber on both fronts, and
I'll need a camber plate to get
it AND cure the castor problem..
>
>Who cares what caster is, caster
just makes the 'feel' of the wheel
different in
>how the car wants to
straighten itself out, and how large the 'dead zone'
is at
>the center
of the wheel in turning transitions.
Yep, my guy explained all that. But
he said if I set up negative camber on
both fronts and ignored the excessive
camber, the car would want to pull to
the left, or it wouldn't straighten up
evenly on left turns, or something
awful. Like I said, I didn't quite follow
the explanation. Setting an
alignment appears to be an arcane
art.
Rich/old poop
.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 19 21:40:39 1999
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To: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>,
"Team 3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Pump.
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 18:43:07 +1300
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If I get a larger fuel pump that pumps 150l/hr would i then be
able to run
my 360cc Injectors at high boost, say 20psi? since I would have a
much
larger fuel pressure.
I was also told how to get rid of the fuel cut.
Put a 20k Ohm Resistor on
the green/yellow wire connecting to the air flow
meter. I am going to try
these combinations because they are MUCH cheaper
than a $800 computer...
Thanks
Henry
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Nov 19 22:33:40 1999
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Subject: Team3S:
Brakes
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Hello
all,
I'm new to my 93 Stealth R/T TT, and noticed the
brakes makin some
noise not long ago. I had the pads replaced, and tried to
downshift more
putting less strain on the brakes as I have heard they wear
fast or
something on these cars.
Well, it's been
like a month, and they're really bad. Rolling @
20mph they're makin
noise, applying the brakes at less than 5mph they're
bad. And
more. Is this at all typical? I hope not, but when I have
my
brakes looked at again is there anything special to take care
of?
Thanks all, I'm sure this topic's been exhausted in the
past,
--Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 20 01:05:58 1999
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 01:04:21
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From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject: Team3S: FWD(starnet):
OT: MKIV website and war stories
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oops. i
think i'll send this to the team3s list also. it could do
with a little
bit of humor every once in a blue moon. :)
Errin Humphrey
wrote:
> bone stock on average; some have dyno'd more. A BPU++
Supra (intake,
> dp, vsv pulled, ffcd, tcd) tends to dyno 400-440 hp at
the wheels, putting
oops. I think the full bpu++ list is intake,
dp, vsv, ffcd, tcd, and ebv and 12v.
ttc is optional. of course,
instead of vsv you could do hks evc or avcr, thus
making wot more aok.
ffcd saves you the trouble of going afc, but you it's
more common to use vpc
anyways, usually with gcc and aic for rcs. however
arc is looking like
a good alternative along with pms which lets you forgo itc.
just hope you
don't upset your ecu and pray that dp doesn't piss off obd.
don't
forget an ssbov, and while you're at it you might as toss the abv, go
for fmic,
block egr, modify your tps, and upgrade your ddic hed. did i
leave anything out?
this is what happens when i stay up too
late.
--Errin Humphrey
Yellow 94 VR4
Seattle, wA
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 20 03:09:54 1999
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To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
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> If I get a
larger fuel pump that pumps 150l/hr would i then be able to run
> my 360cc
Injectors at high boost, say 20psi? since I would have a much
> larger
fuel pressure.
First, our pump is already 190 l/hr pump :) Therefore
you'd like to get a 255
l/hr or higher pump.
Also then, the fuel
pressure is not much larger as the fuel pressure is only
5psi higher as at
15psi of boost. Of course the pump is then not the problem but
the ammount of
fuel needed to cool the chamber is the first and fuel cut the
second problem.
The first is only 100% monitorable by a knock sensor and other
instruments
and we can not calculate the amount of fuel needed for eleiminating
knock.
Therefore, dumping fuel is the (not so good) solution and this can only
be
done with larger injectors or a special fuel pressure riser. But fuel cut
is
a problem as this will be initiated at several conditions. One of them is
when
the ECU calculates a value that is out of the table. It then takes the
biggest
one but after some unsuccessful tries it thinks that there is
something wrong
and initiates fuel cut ! The only solution here is a fuel
controller together
with larger injectors.
Sorry the only
"cheap" solution is a pressure riser but this is not easy to
tune
in !
> I was also told how to get rid of the fuel cut. Put a
20k Ohm Resistor on
> the green/yellow wire connecting to the air flow
meter. I am going to try
> these combinations because they are MUCH
cheaper than a $800 computer...
MAN ! Do you know what you are doing then
? You are lowering the voltage of the
MAS signal but this means you are
faking the ECU liek you do with a fuel
controller. But you are not having
bigger injectors so you'll run in extra lean
situations. Good luck but don't
say I haven't warned you (get a quote from your
dealer for a
rebuild).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "R.G."
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes
Date: Sat,
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> noise not long ago. I had the pads replaced, and tried to
downshift more
> putting less strain on the brakes as I have heard they
wear fast or
> something on these cars.
What pads did they put on,
stock ? Normally there is a kit that comes
including all plates and washers
named "anti-squeel" stuff. If you use the
bads without these parts,
they will make clunks and screetchs.
You may remove one front tire and
check the pads. For a closer look of how
the stuff looks like just go to my
website under
http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html and feel free to
ask if you
need more help.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 20 08:19:00 1999
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From:
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Subject: Team3S: 2 3Spoints
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Yo Team;
1)The only stupid questions here, are the ones you
do not ask.
2)The cheapest fixes are likely the most
expensive.
These are complex cars which require a demystification process
if you're to
understand them. That process is usually through asking
questions and
getting hands on experience working with them. When considering
upgrades or
repairs, remember the price of the car and the price of a
rebuild. Does your
upgrade or repair adequately reflect this point. If it
does not, consider
waiting until you can afford it. It always surprises
me when I hear that
some people do not change their oil regularly because
synthetic is too
expensive to change every 2000, but by comparison their
monthly insurance is
far more expensive. Everything in
proportion.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 11:43:34 -0600
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From: Merritt
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes
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At 12:32 AM
11/20/99 -0600, Rah wrote:
>Hello all,
> I'm new
to my 93 Stealth R/T TT, and noticed the brakes makin some
>noise not long
ago. I had the pads replaced, and tried to downshift more
>putting less
strain on the brakes as I have heard they wear fast or
>something on these
cars.
Bad idea. As someone once said, it's easier to replace brakes than
it is to
replace an engine, clutch and
transmission.
>
> Well, it's been like a
month, and they're really bad. Rolling @
>20mph they're makin noise,
applying the brakes at less than 5mph they're
>bad. And more.
Is this at all typical? I hope not, but when I have my
>brakes
looked at again is there anything special to take care of?
Get the rotors
turned. Sounds like they are warped.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop
me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 20 10:29:26 1999
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To: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From:
Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brakes
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Roger
suggests:>
>What pads did they put on, stock ? Normally there is a kit
that comes
>including all plates and washers named "anti-squeel"
stuff. If you use the
>bads without these parts, they will make clunks and
screetchs.
Roger may be on to something. It's so hard to push all four
pistons back
into the calipers, I can see that an incompetent shop might very
well leave
out the plates to gain just a bit more clearance so they can slip
the new
pads in. They are thin steel plates, shaped the same as the pads, and
go
between the pads and the pistons. There can be one or two per side.
Pull a wheel, and look carefully at the calipers, pads, and rotors.
Since
you haven't been in there before, you probably don't know what to
expect,
so check Roger's site. You have four-piston calipers, with two
pistons on
each side of the rotor. When you peer inside the caliper assembly,
you
should be able to see (going from outside to inside) two pistons
side by
side, the steel plate, outside pad, rotor, inside pad, steel plate,
and two
pistons. A metal springy-thing in the middle holds the pads
down.
The whole deal is held together by two locating pins that are
secured by a
retainer spring on the inside. Make sure nothing is loose in
this assembly.
You may be able to wiggle the metal springy-thing a little,
but that's it.
Everything else should be tight.
Make sure you see the
silvery steel plates on both sides. Also look to see
if a plate has slipped
-- it can be difficult to get the retaining pins to
go through the caliper,
plate, pad, metal springy thing, pad, plate and
caliper, and sometimes they
miss the inside plate. If so, it hangs down,
held by one pin, and rattles
around against the rotor. You may not be able
to see it, but you can
sometimes feel it with your fingers. Or you might
look through the wheel
spokes and see it dangling in the back.
If you find anything wrong, take
it back to the shop and complain loudly.
If everything is present and
accounted for, then it may be a warped rotor.
Rich/old pop
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 20 10:47:45 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Mohler, Jeff"
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>,
"3000GT Mailing"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ground Control Kit in at last!
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 10:45:10
-0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
>At 05:55 PM 11/19/99 -0800, Mohler,
Jeff wrote:
>>WHat?
>>You have one rear wheel with neg.
camber, and the other with
positive camber?
>
>No, on the front.
My mechanic went into a long dissertation on how
to
>correct castor by
changing camber, but I didn't follow it all.
Besides,
>it's only a
teeny bit off, and everything is within factory specs.
>
>My problem
is that I'd like to have negative camber on both fronts,
and
>I'll need
a camber plate to get it AND cure the castor
problem..
>>
>>Who cares what caster is, caster just makes the
'feel' of the
wheel
>different in
>>how the car wants to
straighten itself out, and how large the
'dead zone'
>is
at
>>the center of the wheel in turning transitions.
FYI,
from our soon-to-be-released FAQ
page...
---------------------------
Q::: Caster isn't adjustable on
out cars, right? (BTW, what
exactly IS the caster angle -
physically?) Have never needed to
pay attention to it...
:-)
A::: {From the description at www.TireRack.com}: If you
think back
to your bicycle and remember how the tire tilted slightly
when
turned, that was caster causing the tilt. If you drew an
imaginary
line through the upper and lower ball joints and compared the
angle
of difference to a line drawn perpindicular to the ground,
the
resulting difference is the caster angle. Caster settings allow
the
manufacturer to balance low speed steering effort and high
speed
stability. Increasing the amount of positive caster will
increase
low speed steering effort, but improve high speed stability.
Caster
also tends to cause an increase in the amount of negative camber
as
the steering angle is increased.
---------------------------
On
the other hand, from the 'Bob-is-a-smartass' archive, "Castor"
is
from Greek mythology (the story of infamous twins Castor and
Pollux,
for whom a bright twin-star in the Gemini constellation is
named).
It is also the namesake of the insidious 'Castor Oil', known
for
it's cathartic and lubricant properties... And the name of
the
musty oil secreted by beavers, used in perfumery... (Don't
even
THINK about it!) :-)
Trivia Lesson over...
:-)
Professor Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 20 13:28:59 1999
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes
References:
<38364099.7D3F4BEC@isd.net>
<002f01bf3347$df24f8e0$5ed2e6c2@rg>
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> noise not
long ago. I had the pads replaced, and tried to downshift more
> putting
less strain on the brakes as I have heard they wear fast or
> something on
these cars.
I would think twice before changing driving habits to shift
wear from
the brakes to the transmission, especially a Getrag
transmission! These
are heavy cars and the brakes are taxed.
However, a clutch is more
expensive to replace AND you are increasing wear on
the synchros.
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom
braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 20 13:29:02 1999
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999
18:33:34 +0100
From: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
References: <001d01bf331a$20dec5a0$8dc46dcb@p3>
<38367E3D.AE0AFC05@swissonline.ch>
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> I was also
told how to get rid of the fuel cut. Put a 20k Ohm Resistor on
> the
green/yellow wire connecting to the air flow meter. I am going to try
>
these combinations because they are MUCH cheaper than a $800
computer...
Yeah, and just disconnecting the hose from the pressure
sensor to
maximize boost is MUCH cheaper than a $500 electronic
boost
controller... until you ruin your engine!
Remember, fuel cut
happens for a reason! Mitsu didn't build it in to
the ECU just as an
inconvenience! If you're getting fuel cut, then
there is a
problem. You will be better off attacking the cause rather
than the
effect.
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom
braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 20 15:46:06 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell"
<Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Team 3S Tech List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: VPC, GCC, G-force ECU
for sale
Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 17:51:54 -0600
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For
Sale:
VPC, GCC and G-force ECU. I'm taking best offers on
these pieces, I will
need your stock ECU in place of the G-force
unit. I have 5-6 different
programs for the G-force ECU.
The
VPC has a 550cc chip in it.
Also for sale: Pearl white VR4
active aero wing, hood, headlights, front &
rear bumper. Parts need
painted but otherwise are in good condition.
Brad
Check out my home
page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 20 17:00:43 1999
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 17:59:47
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From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
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To:
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Subject: Team3S: plugs then boost
controller?
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I'm planning
on changing my plugs in the next week or two, and I wondered
how much power I
might lose by gapping them to .034 even though I don't
have a boost
controller yet. I hope to either get one or buy myself one
for x-mas,
so the gap would be appropriate then, but I would probably be
driving the car
for a month at stock boost and a lower gap.
or should I just wait till I
get the bc? any thoughts?
also, I'm trying to decide what bc
I want.. from everything I've read
here and starnet, the Apexi AVC-R
seems to be a universal favorite.. I
know it's been discussed several
times lately, but does anyone have
anything bad to say about this
unit? or where the best deal on one is?
oh, and I will be getting a
boost gauge as well in case you were going
to suggest that..
:)
thanks!
Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Nov 20 17:40:50 1999
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Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 19:30:06 -0600
To:
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Exceeding the
Redline
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Help. I'm trying
to figure out how to install the Redline manual boost
controller (MBC). It's
weird, but you turbo experts may be able to figure
it out.
Quoting
from the so-called "installation brochure" from Redline
(complete
with typos):
The Redline boost controller uses a spring and
ball bearing. Here's how it
works: pressure builds on the inlet side of the
valve (from the BOV line
off the manifold) and begins to exert a pressure on
the ball opposite the
spring. At some point the force exerted by the air on
the ball will equal
the force exerted by the spring. Up to this point, no air
has been bled
from your intake system.
To install: Attach the
pressure fitting to the BOV with a T fitting so that
the ball see's
boost...then attatch the air bleed to the intake box where
there is no boost
pressure. The other end attaches to the wastgate.
To set boost, all you
have to do is tighten down the ends so that tension
on the spring is
increased. To lock it,...insert the locking C rings over
the threads.
Setting boost is that easy!
___________
Any of you turbo
wizards out there have the foggiest idea of what he's
talking about? Attach
it to the BOV where?
Glenn Cope, who had one installed, said he couldn't
figure out how to make
it work by following Redline's instructions, but got
it to work a different
way. He says, "So I went from the top line off of
the y-pipe bend...hooked
that into the MBC and then fed the MBC directly into
the waste gate hoses.
I just plugged off the stock solenoid
hoses."
Glen also thinks the system is designed for single-turbo
cars, such as
Eclipses.
Here's the link if you want to look at
it:
http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/RedlinePROformance.htm
It's only
$59, so I don't mind tossing it if it's not going to work. I'll
go to a
bleeder valve if this doesn't work.
(No, I'm not getting an electronic
boost controller yet, because I am still
under warranty. If I blow it up, I
need a system that can come off quickly
and easily.)
Any ideas on how
to make this work?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 20 18:31:02 1999
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From:
Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'Merritt'"
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Exceeding the
Redline
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 15:30:42 +1300
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> Any of you
turbo wizards out there have the foggiest idea
> of what he's talking
about? Attach it to the BOV where?
> Glenn Cope, who had one installed,
said he couldn't figure
> out how to make it work by following Redline's
instructions,
> but got it to work a different way. He says, "So I
went
> from the top line off of the y-pipe bend...hooked that into
>
the MBC and then fed the MBC directly into the waste gate
> hoses. I
just plugged off the stock solenoid hoses."
Read Roger's page at the
following
URL:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/turbo_basics.html
In
short, what your wastegate setup currently looks like
is:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzip5t.gif
I
think what Glenn has done is very similar to the Blitz
setup and is pictured
in the
following:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/prinzipt.gif
Either
way, if you read Roder's writeup at this location I
think you will find the
whole "Turbo/Boost" issue far easier
to
understand.
Cheers,
Kevin.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Nov 20 19:44:41 1999
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From: Joe Gonsowski
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I am
contemplating rebuilding my engine this winter/spring and have been
wondering
about a couple items as follows:
Pistons? At what boost /
horsepower level are upgraded forged pistons
recommended (JE pistons for
example)? I do have the necessary fuel
upgrades and a datalogger to
monitor knock levels. Can I expect to
safely run mid 11's with stock
pistons?
Head gaskets? Has anyone tried using two head gaskets per
bank to
better seal the combustion chamber. All cylinder heads
experience head
lift, most severe at peak torque when the highest MEP is
experienced.
Head gaskets are designed to seal the combustion chamber up to a
certain
head lift. Many OEMs are going to multilayer gaskets these days
with
the higher output of engines. I know our factory head gasket is
already
multilayer, but the more layers (i.e. more than one gasket/bank)
the
more head lift the joint can handle without failing/leaking. This
has
been and is done on some racing programs I know of. I realize this
will
slightly decrease the compression ratio, but it allows higher
cylinder
pressures without worrying about leaking. I don't recall
anyone having
bad luck with the factory head gaskets, so maybe I need not
worry here.
Ball bearing 15G's? I may need to rebuild my rear bank
15G turbo.
Instead of rebuilding it though, should I use this money and put
it
towards a pair of new ball bearing units? Do the ball bearing
turbo's
really outperform the bushing units?
Thanks in advance,
Joe
Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT
Best E.T. of 12.23 @ 113
Best trap speed of 118.8
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From: "B
Collett" <hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To: "Team 3S Tech List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 18:06:16 +1300
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---Original Message-----
From: R.G.
<robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, 21 November 1999
00:10
Subject: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
>> If I get a larger
fuel pump that pumps 150l/hr would i then be able to
run
>> my 360cc
Injectors at high boost, say 20psi? since I would have a much
>> larger
fuel pressure.
>
>First, our pump is already 190 l/hr pump :)
Therefore you'd like to get a
255
>l/hr or higher
pump.
>
>Also then, the fuel pressure is not much larger as the fuel
pressure is
only
>5psi higher as at 15psi of boost. Of course the pump
is then not the
problem but
>the ammount of fuel needed to cool the
chamber is the first and fuel cut
the
>second problem. The first is
only 100% monitorable by a knock sensor and
other
>instruments and we
can not calculate the amount of fuel needed for
eleiminating
>knock.
Therefore, dumping fuel is the (not so good) solution and this
can
only
>be done with larger injectors or a special fuel pressure
riser. But fuel
cut is
>a problem as this will be initiated at several
conditions. One of them is
when
>the ECU calculates a value that is out
of the table. It then takes the
biggest
>one but after some
unsuccessful tries it thinks that there is something
wrong
>and
initiates fuel cut ! The only solution here is a fuel
controller
together
>with larger injectors.
>
>Sorry the
only "cheap" solution is a pressure riser but this is not easy
to
tune
>in !
190l/hr, I think I have a different reading, I
am just timing 1 minute and
seeing how much fuel comes out. I got 800ml X 60
= 48 l/hr....
my friends car runs 72 l/hr.
Sorry if my information
sounds screwed..
Man these cars are REALLY hard to get running
right..
>
>> I was also told how to get rid of the fuel
cut. Put a 20k Ohm Resistor on
>> the green/yellow wire connecting to
the air flow meter. I am going to try
>> these combinations because
they are MUCH cheaper than a $800 computer...
>
>MAN ! Do you know
what you are doing then ? You are lowering the voltage of
the
>MAS
signal but this means you are faking the ECU liek you do with a
fuel
>controller. But you are not having bigger injectors so you'll run in
extra
lean
>situations. Good luck but don't say I haven't warned you
(get a quote from
your
>dealer for a rebuild).
No that was not a
good idea at all, got alot worse. Someone with a VR4
Eterna did that but
dosn't work on our cars.
Ok so what do you think?, A Map computer that will
control everything and
run the 550cc injectors?
Is it possible to run
20psi I do we need to get alot cooler somehow?
I need to get this going
it is really starting to annoy me, I have spent all
this money and not
getting the performance I want.
Help
please
Henry
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT
TT
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 21 04:38:18 1999
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Date:
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From: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Exceeding the
Redline
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Merritt
wrote:
>
> pressure builds on the inlet side of the valve (from the
BOV line
> off the manifold) and begins to exert a pressure on the ball
opposite the
> spring.
Maybe it doesn't make any difference for
this application, but the
SAVC-R monitors boost AFTER the throttle body,
teeing off of the FPR
line coming from the rear of the plenum. I guess
the only difference
would be measuring vacuum, which is a non-issue for a
manual BC.
At any rate, this should be a trivial install. But why
did you decide
to go with a manual controller? What with your
involvement in racing
and planned future upgrades, I think the new SAVC-R
would be a wise
investment.
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.vistec.net (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.vistec.net/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom
braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed:
168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno
Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sun, 21
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From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
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Precedence: bulk
> 190l/hr, I
think I have a different reading, I am just timing 1 minute and
> seeing
how much fuel comes out. I got 800ml X 60 = 48 l/hr....
> my friends
car runs 72 l/hr.
On what pressure ? What voltage to the pump ? Idle
??
> Man these cars are REALLY hard to get running
right..
Well, depends on the tools :)
> Is it possible to run
20psi I do we need to get alot cooler somehow?
You have to do a lot more
for reliable 20psi. First, replace the turbos ! But
all this is
pricey.
> I need to get this going it is really starting to annoy me,
I have spent all
> this money and not getting the performance I
want.
I cannot remember what money you spent on what mods. Get a good
filter, bleeder
valve, used 440cc injectors and a used AFC, gut the precats,
get a high flow cat
and a custom exhaust and you're in the low 12s with
17/18psi boost. All this
stuff is only about $800
maximum.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Message-ID: <3837E36F.22DF6BD9@swissonline.ch>
Date: Sun, 21
Nov 1999 13:19:59 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Reply-To: robby@swissonline.ch
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To: 3000GT / Stealth
List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Few engine
building questions
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>
Pistons? At what boost / horsepower level are upgraded forged
pistons
> recommended (JE pistons for example)?
JE forged pistons
are the cheapest ones but I'd choose them too. There are
others around that
also have one or two more grooves for the higehr bosot. I'd
go for them after
18psi of boost for reliability. Also get TotalSeals rings.
> I do have
the necessary fuel upgrades and a datalogger to monitor knock
> levels.
Can I expect to safely run mid 11's with stock pistons ?
Yes, if you run
race fuel at the track. BTW, have you solved your O2 reading
problem
?
> Head gaskets? Has anyone tried using two head gaskets per
bank to
> better seal the combustion chamber.
This will lower the
compression ratio below 8.0:1. The heads are very well done
and I don't see a
gain of this and I never heard of one where the gasket blew
off.
>
Ball bearing 15G's? I may need to rebuild my rear bank 15G turbo.
>
Instead of rebuilding it though, should I use this money and put it
>
towards a pair of new ball bearing units? Do the ball bearing
turbo's
> really outperform the bushing units?
Well, this highly
depends on the quality of the bearings. I have no experience
and even the
368s I have ar bushing types. As far as I understand the bearing
type have
less friction and generate less ehat due to less force to the shaft.
But I
doubt that on our twin turbo system two bearing turbos can make a
big
difference to the performance. Maybe life is increased and regardign the
rear
Turbo this is maybe a good idea ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<38374403.9CDEE318@refuge.colorado.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then
boost controller?
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:35:17 +0100
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> I'm planning on changing my plugs in the next week or two, and
I wondered
> how much power I might lose by gapping them to .034 even
though I don't
> have a boost controller yet.
Mostly loss in
tourque but you'll not notice it. You'll probably see a drop
in mileage but
also not a lot.
> also, I'm trying to decide what bc I want..
from everything I've read
> here and starnet, the Apexi AVC-R seems to be
a universal favorite.. I
> know it's been discussed several times
lately, but does anyone have
> anything bad to say about this
unit?
It lacks of rpm AND IDC connection at the same time, is not that
easy to set
up than others, has a big display that is not easy to fit
somewhere, is more
expensive than others and has the wrong color that doesn't
fit our interiour
lighting.
> oh, and I will be getting a boost
gauge as well in case you were going
> to suggest that..
:)
The most are good enough. I haven't seen a bad one, although the
AutoMeter
are a little too cheap IMHO.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Nov 21 04:40:32 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<38364099.7D3F4BEC@isd.net>
<3.0.5.32.19991120121042.007fc290@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brakes
Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 13:39:03 +0100
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> Roger may be on to something. It's so hard to push all four
pistons back
> into the calipers, I can see that an incompetent shop might
very well
leave
> out the plates to gain just a bit more clearance so
they can slip the new
> pads in. They are thin steel plates, shaped the
same as the pads, and go
> between the pads and the pistons. There can be
one or two per side.
Yes, you are absolutely right ! There are two plates
on each pad, one is
plain while the other is slotted. When checkiong the
brakes, they could
already be covered from a lot dust and therefore the
plates are not well
recognizable. Follow the good advices given and you
should be fine.
Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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To: Team 3S Tech List
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
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> 190l/hr, I
think I have a different reading, I am just timing 1 minute and
> seeing
how much fuel comes out. I got 800ml X 60 = 48 l/hr....
> my friends
car runs 72 l/hr.
On what pressure ? What voltage to the pump ? Idle
??
> Man these cars are REALLY hard to get running
right..
Well, depends on the tools :)
> Is it possible to run
20psi I do we need to get alot cooler somehow?
You have to do a lot more
for reliable 20psi. First, replace the turbos ! But
all this is
pricey.
> I need to get this going it is really starting to annoy me,
I have spent all
> this money and not getting the performance I
want.
I cannot remember what money you spent on what mods. Get a good
filter, bleeder
valve, used 440cc injectors and a used AFC, gut the precats,
get a high flow cat
and a custom exhaust and you're in the low 12s with
17/18psi boost. All this
stuff is only about $800
maximum.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Few engine
building questions
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>
Pistons? At what boost / horsepower level are upgraded forged
pistons
> recommended (JE pistons for example)?
JE forged pistons
are the cheapest ones but I'd choose them too. There are
others around that
also have one or two more grooves for the higehr bosot. I'd
go for them after
18psi of boost for reliability. Also get TotalSeals rings.
> I do have
the necessary fuel upgrades and a datalogger to monitor knock
> levels.
Can I expect to safely run mid 11's with stock pistons ?
Yes, if you run
race fuel at the track. BTW, have you solved your O2 reading
problem
?
> Head gaskets? Has anyone tried using two head gaskets per
bank to
> better seal the combustion chamber.
This will lower the
compression ratio below 8.0:1. The heads are very well done
and I don't see a
gain of this and I never heard of one where the gasket blew
off.
>
Ball bearing 15G's? I may need to rebuild my rear bank 15G turbo.
>
Instead of rebuilding it though, should I use this money and put it
>
towards a pair of new ball bearing units? Do the ball bearing
turbo's
> really outperform the bushing units?
Well, this highly
depends on the quality of the bearings. I have no experience
and even the
368s I have ar bushing types. As far as I understand the bearing
type have
less friction and generate less ehat due to less force to the shaft.
But I
doubt that on our twin turbo system two bearing turbos can make a
big
difference to the performance. Maybe life is increased and regardign the
rear
Turbo this is maybe a good idea ;-)
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Exceeding the
Redline
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> Maybe it
doesn't make any difference for this application, but the
> SAVC-R
monitors boost AFTER the throttle body, teeing off of the FPR
> line
coming from the rear of the plenum. I guess the only difference
>
would be measuring vacuum, which is a non-issue for a manual BC.
The line
that comes out on the front of the plenum is the same as on the back
but a
little larger for the BPV line. It has the same function and works as good
as
the other line at the back.
The Redline BC is nothing else than a Halmann
style BC or better said "ball
spring valve". As Jim already said,
installation is very easy but I'm sure and
EBC gives you more possiblities on
the track.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Nov 21 16:40:37 1999
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From: "B Collett"
<hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 13:33:55
+1300
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-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
<robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, 22 November 1999
01:40
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
>> 190l/hr, I
think I have a different reading, I am just timing 1 minute
and
>>
seeing how much fuel comes out. I got 800ml X 60 = 48 l/hr....
>>
my friends car runs 72 l/hr.
>
>On what pressure ? What voltage to
the pump ? Idle ??
Not sure on the pressure yet, we are trying that later
today.
Do you know if it is a two speed pump?
Not sure on the voltage,
standard 3000GT pump?
I was on idle when I did that
test.
>
>> Man these cars are REALLY hard to get running
right..
>
>Well, depends on the tools :)
>
>> Is it
possible to run 20psi I do we need to get alot cooler
somehow?
>
>You have to do a lot more for reliable 20psi. First,
replace the turbos !
But
>all this is pricey.
>
>> I
need to get this going it is really starting to annoy me, I have
spent
all
>> this money and not getting the performance I
want.
>
>I cannot remember what money you spent on what mods. Get a
good filter,
bleeder
>valve, used 440cc injectors and a used AFC, gut
the precats, get a high
flow cat
>and a custom exhaust and you're in
the low 12s with 17/18psi boost. All
this
>stuff is only about $800
maximum.
Yes I already have Hybrid 15G's with larger turbine wheel
for quicker
responce at low rev's.
I am running the HKS EVC 4, have a HKS
F-Con. I also have 550cc injectors
that I can use but I don't think I need
them at this stage.
It is bored out to 3.2L with forged pistons and
compression of 7.8 : 1
All heads ported and polished and flowed.
Portmatched.
I don't have to have a Cat here, I have a straight 3.5"
pipe so no problems
there..
I have fancy valve springs that are suppose to
be able to stand 20psi
without blowing the valve of it's seat.
Ok so I
am pretty sweet just need the fuel pump and filter and the computer
that will
correctly map my flow and stop fuel cut.
Pump will be here in a couple of
days and new filter also.
Just need to find the BEST/CHEAPEST
computer.
Henry
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Date: Sun, 21
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From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
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Subject: Team3S: Stealth
Stereo
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Hello all, here
to ask questions again,
I have a 93 Stealth R/T TT, and
what I understand to be the premium
6 speaker sound system. I know
currently Dodge's nicest stereos
available are Infinity packages and along
with those comes the unusual
setup with their own amp and all. Does
this apply here?
I'm looking to maybe upgrade the speakers
at some point possibly, so
I'm also wondering what kind of speakers there
are(specifically size)?
And how hard they are to change(whether or not the
weird infinity thing
is involved too)? Looking at the door speakers and
rear ones the screen
oughta just pop off, but the dash look like they could
be more involved.
Thanks all in advance!
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sun, 21 Nov 1999 22:33:50
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth
Stereo
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Team3S: I
was going to reply privately as this isn't really technical, but
I thought
there might be others curious about it.. hope you all don't
mind..
Rah wrote:
>
> Hello all, here to ask questions
again,
> I have a 93 Stealth R/T TT, and what I
understand to be the premium
> 6 speaker sound system. I know
currently Dodge's nicest stereos
> available are Infinity packages and
along with those comes the unusual
> setup with their own amp and
all. Does this apply here?
I think several options were available,
but I believe all 3/S TT came with
factory amplification (meaning, an
external amp as opposed to just the
internal amp in the head unit) by
93.. not positive on this though..
someone please correct me if
I'm wrong..
look under your passenger seat with it all the way forward
for a factory
amp.. it'll be easy to spot.. (btw, you can use
aftermarket speakers with
this amp, but not an aftermarket head
unit..)
> I'm looking to maybe upgrade the
speakers at some point possibly, so
> I'm also wondering what kind of
speakers there are(specifically size)?
> And how hard they are to
change(whether or not the weird infinity thing
> is involved too)?
Looking at the door speakers and rear ones the screen
> oughta just pop
off, but the dash look like they could be more involved.
actually, it's
just the opposite.. the dash speakers just pop/pry out, but
the door
and rear speakers need to have the panels (not the grills) removed
to access
them..
the dash speakers are the worst of the bunch to replace as far as
aftermarket
options go.. they're 3" (not 3.5") and nobody
seems to make that odd size..
(please, somebody tell me I'm wrong because I
need to replace these myself..)
I think the door speakers are 6.5" and
the rears are 6"x9", with plenty of
options available.. just
make sure to watch out for mounting depth problems
before you fall in love
with the sound of a particular speaker..
hope that helps..
--
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "nketo"
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth
Stereo
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 02:58:42 -0800
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Rah,
I can tell u what I did with my 1993 stealth, and the
noticeable improvement
in sound I got.
First off, the '93 spec you have
has an internal amp off the head unit.
If u replace this unit, you'll lose
the steering wheel controls for audio.
Period.
Your best bet is to
replace this unit with an aftermarket unit. I chose
Sony, because of
their
quality and easy hookup; they sell adapters to your stereo's
harness.
But more importantly, they have 4V outputs and seperate sub-outs;
important
if you're adding subs
later. (I origionally had one that
didn't, and later regretted it...so I
sold it and got the one that
did:))
The lines you can run along the door carpeting to a series of amps
in the
rear.
I wound recommend that the two front dash units be
replaced by tweeters and
crossovers
that will easily fit into the spots
where the factory ones use to be.
The doors I'd recommend mids (I think
4.5 to 5 inch, but I'll have to double
check),
the rear 6 by 9's (optional
tweeters can be placed here), and a pair of subs
in the trunk.
The
dash units are easiest to "pop" off, the doors require to remove
the
interior "skins", and
the rears require u to remove the rear
seats, and interior skins just over
the rear seat belt
assemblies: you'll
see one big section that's one piece with the screens.
The screens are
integral with the skins; DO NOT try to "pluck" them out!
Besides,
you'll need to wire and screw/unscrew the old assemblies; just
removing
the
screens doesn't allow for enough clearance to pull em out.
AND they're
a pain in the butt to get back in....:(
The 91-93 specs have 100 watts
total output, Mitsu. They were OK for a
factory system, but
if
you're looking for a system that pounds, forget it; they'll breakup
and
distort.
There are no crossovers in the factory system; only a few
caps.
94 upgraded to around 200 watts, Infinity.
If u go
aftermarket, you can easily get 400-500 watts (including subs) for
around
$1500-2000,
complete (depending on models u get)
I personally wired
everything, so if you're having trouble, lemme know and
I'll
see what I
can do to help. :)
Lates
Noble
-----Original
Message-----
From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, November 21, 1999 7:46 PM
Subject: Team3S: Stealth
Stereo
>Hello all, here to ask questions
again,
> I have a 93 Stealth R/T TT, and what I
understand to be the premium
>6 speaker sound system. I know
currently Dodge's nicest stereos
>available are Infinity packages and
along with those comes the unusual
>setup with their own amp and
all. Does this apply here?
> I'm looking to maybe
upgrade the speakers at some point possibly, so
>I'm also wondering what
kind of speakers there are(specifically size)?
>And how hard they are to
change(whether or not the weird infinity thing
>is involved too)?
Looking at the door speakers and rear ones the screen
>oughta just pop
off, but the dash look like they could be more involved.
>
>Thanks
all in advance!
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 03:20:09 1999
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From: "R.G."
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To: "Team 3S Tech List"
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel
Pump.
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 12:14:11 +0100
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> Not sure on
the pressure yet, we are trying that later today.
> Do you know if it is a
two speed pump?
> Not sure on the voltage, standard 3000GT pump?
> I
was on idle when I did that test.
Nonono, at idle you are having a vacuum
that lowers fuel pressure, the pump is switched down to about 6-8 Volts or even
less and therefore the flow is minimal :-) Testing is not always easy
!
> Yes I already have Hybrid 15G's with larger turbine wheel for
quicker
> responce at low rev's. I am running the HKS EVC 4, have a
HKS F-Con.
> I also have 550cc injectors that I can use but I don't think
I need them at this stage.
> It is bored out to 3.2L with forged pistons
and compression of 7.8 : 1
> All heads ported and polished and flowed.
Portmatched.
> I don't have to have a Cat here, I have a straight
3.5" pipe so no problems
> there..
Nice setup, although I
still don't like the F-Con. If you ever have the chance sell it and either get a
VPC or ARC/MAF kit. You'll get much better results out of it. And I can tell you
that you NEED the fuel IF you are running more than 15psi. This, because our
cars need to run super-rich to avoid knock and the ECU does taking care of this
and the injectors are maxxed out even at 15psi ! Fue lcut will then jump in at
about 17psi as the values are jumping out of the map.
BUT: You have a lot
of internals changed and I believe it is not fully 3.2l as the walls would be
too thin. Anyways it is about 3.12 liters and this overbore can give you alot
power. I believe that the even lower compression is responsible for much less
knock as well as the forged pistons are.
> I have fancy valve springs
that are suppose to be able to stand 20psi
> without blowing the valve of
it's seat.
Idle is still ok ? Sometimes so heavy valve-springs do create
more stree to the adjusters/cams and you may need also stronger parts there
!
> Ok so I am pretty sweet just need the fuel pump and filter and the
computer
> that will correctly map my flow and stop fuel cut.
The
filter is ok if not clogged but, as mentioned, get a used VPC (Brad Bedell is
selling some parts) and you'll be able to get much more out of it as you do
today.
Damn, you definitely invested A LOT in your car and I'm sure that
it will withstand 20psi easily. Just make sure to measure the intake temperature
before the throttle body as you may start to think about a FMIC setup that is
able to deliver the desired bosot and air at the same time.
> Pump
will be here in a couple of days and new filter also.
> Just need to find
the BEST/CHEAPEST computer.
Those words do not go together. You can get a
used VPC setup alone for $600 used, but dunno what chip is included then and if
it is fully working. I recommend the ARC2-GP MAF kit as I have good experience
with it (only a little problem with temps under -5°C) and it handles
anything around fuel and air. Well, it is another $1000 (including air filter)
but I belive you can sell the F-Con to minimize costs. This setup, with 20psi of
boost, you'll be able to run into the 11s for sure and power will be around
560hp or so.
Get the good fuel control and you will get more than you
wanted :))
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: Matt Wise
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To:
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Subject: Team3S: Another round of questions...
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Precedence: bulk
1) I've
installed 3 (fuel, tach, speedo) of the 6 white face guages I have
for my 93
VR-4. I have the entire guage set which includes the Volt meter
instead of
having the boost guage (for non turbo models). Since I have an
aftermarket
boost guage (the Blitz dual turbo timer) I was thinking maybe
I could install
a volt meter into that 3rd spot.. Does this sound doable?
If so, any ideas on
how I could do this?
2) Ive been reading
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589
(Roger's web site) and his
99 Dyno testing results are impressive to say
the least. He shows that a US
spec (9b turbos) w/ an AVC-R and a Blitz
SBOV makes 406 SAE hp. By my
understanding, this means he makes somewhere
in the range of 300-310 WHEEL
hp. Is that right? Does this sound accurate,
or are these results in a
"best case" scenario?
3) I have recently found out that my car
had been pretty heavily modified
(15g turbos, alamo sidemounts, etc.. )
before I bought it... I bought a 2
year/24k mile warentee simply because I
knew the tranny was bad (yay,
getting a new one in about 7 hours). Anyone
have any other ideas what
problems the car could have? I know that the stock
exhaust sounds like
crap right now.. When standing behind it it sounds fine
except for the
ocational pop (kind of a muffled pop) that sounds almost like
the car is
backfiring. Could the timing be off?
3b) In relation to
that last question, I've noticed that my Blitz dual
turbo timer registers my
max boost (except when shifting) at about .42
Bar. This calculates out to
only about 6.2 PSI of boost. I was told that
that boost level sounds acurate
for a 93 Wastegate (meaning that it is old
and worn out, i believe). My
question is, could the wastegate (since it is
old and not holding the stock
8psi (or was it 9?) of boost) be letting
exhaust out early? If its only
giving me 6 psi of boost, what do you think
my power output is? My only other
mod is a K&N...
Final question...
I'm getting a new tranny
put in my car in about 7 hours (after i get off
work) by the dealer. I have a
GM warentee. They know the tranny was bad
from the start but they are hiding
it from GM. They put a new clutch in my
car before I bought it, but within 3
weeks I found (and got a professional
to look at it) that the clutch was
adjusted wrong. It turned out that
every time I shifted the clutch was
getting ground off a bit because the
clutch pedel wasnt adjusted right. Ive
asked the dealer guys about putting
in a new clutch since they fucked up the
last one, but they claim the
clutch should be fine. Is there any way I can
get them to put in a new
clutch? I'd rather not spend another $500 down the
line for a new clutch
if I can get them to do it now.
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 07:27:12 1999
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From: "R.G."
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References:
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Subject: Re: Team3S:
Another round of questions...
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 15:47:04
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Precedence: bulk
> SBOV makes
406 SAE hp. By my understanding, this means he makes somewhere
> in the
range of 300-310 WHEEL hp. Is that right? Does this sound accurate,
> or
are these results in a "best case" scenario?
Well, this is
with some conversion factors that are not easy to explain. When you measure
power with a G-Tech pro you'll see about 260-270hp at the wheels and this is
pretty accurate. The loss is indeed large and this is why we are getting around
370hpflywheel measured on the dyno (DIN-corrected). Our results were "worst
case" as on the dyno you do have not a good cooling of the charge air as
well as the coolant. For this we always open the hood to have additional cooling
and less intake temperatures. On the street it is possible that you have more
power and the SAE correction takes care of this.
> 3) I have recently
found out that my car had been pretty heavily modified
> (15g turbos,
alamo sidemounts, etc.. ) before I bought it... I bought a 2
> year/24k
mile warentee simply because I knew the tranny was bad (yay,
> getting a
new one in about 7 hours). Anyone have any other ideas what
> problems the
car could have? I know that the stock exhaust sounds like
> crap right
now.. When standing behind it it sounds fine except for the
> ocational
pop (kind of a muffled pop) that sounds almost like the car is
>
backfiring. Could the timing be off?
So has the car this mods on or not
? I always check the compression within 24 hours when I get a used car. I also
check the look of the plugs, the look of the belt and tensioner and the IC
intake for any larger sign of oil. The sound could be comming from heavily
regapped plugs (down to 0.30) as this is often the cause for such sounds. Other
than that, the cats can be clogged or even not working properly !
>
3b) In relation to that last question, I've noticed that my Blitz dual
>
turbo timer registers my max boost (except when shifting) at about .42
>
Bar.
What do you mean by "except when shifting" ? The steady
boost you tell is normal for a 1st gen and it peaks up to 8psi asfter shifting
and under full load in 3rd.
> This calculates out to only about 6.2
PSI of boost. I was told that
> that boost level sounds acurate for a 93
Wastegate (meaning that it is old
> and worn out, i believe). My question
is, could the wastegate (since it is
> old and not holding the stock 8psi
(or was it 9?) of boost) be letting
> exhaust out early?
Yes, can
be but as said, this sounds pretty normal. With this you'll see about 280-296hp
on the flywheel.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 07:40:29 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
cc:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Another round of
questions...
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> Well, this
is with some conversion factors that are not easy to explain. When you measure
power with a G-Tech pro you'll see about 260-270hp at the wheels and this is
pretty accurate. The loss is indeed large and this is why we are getting around
370hpflywheel measured on the dyno (DIN-corrected). Our results were "worst
case" as on the dyno you do have not a good cooling of the charge air as
well as the coolant. For this we always open the hood to have additional cooling
and less intake temperatures. On the street it is possible that you have more
power and the SAE correction takes care of this.
>
> > 3) I have
recently found out that my car had been pretty heavily modified
> >
(15g turbos, alamo sidemounts, etc.. ) before I bought it... I bought a
2
> > year/24k mile warentee simply because I knew the tranny was bad
(yay,
> > getting a new one in about 7 hours). Anyone have any other
ideas what
> > problems the car could have? I know that the stock
exhaust sounds like
> > crap right now.. When standing behind it it
sounds fine except for the
> > ocational pop (kind of a muffled pop)
that sounds almost like the car is
> > backfiring. Could the timing be
off?
>
> So has the car this mods on or not ? I always check the
compression within 24 hours when I get a used car. I also check the look of the
plugs, the look of the belt and tensioner and the IC intake for any larger sign
of oil. The sound could be comming from heavily regapped plugs (down to 0.30) as
this is often the cause for such sounds. Other than that, the cats can be
clogged or even not working properly !
No, he took the modifications off
before he sold it to the dealer. After I
got it from the dealer, I did a
spark plug and oil change and they both
looked good. I've been considering
taking off the valve covers and
inspecting everything...
Since i;m
getting a new tranny today, i'm going to ask them to inspect as
much as they
possibly can.
>
> > 3b) In relation to that last question,
I've noticed that my Blitz dual
> > turbo timer registers my max boost
(except when shifting) at about .42
> > Bar.
>
> What do
you mean by "except when shifting" ? The steady boost you tell is
normal for a 1st gen and it peaks up to 8psi asfter shifting and under full load
in 3rd.
Whenever I shift, the boost spikes to about .5 PSI (when I'm
really
stomping on it)
>
> > This calculates out to only
about 6.2 PSI of boost. I was told that
> > that boost level sounds
acurate for a 93 Wastegate (meaning that it is old
> > and worn out, i
believe). My question is, could the wastegate (since it is
> > old and
not holding the stock 8psi (or was it 9?) of boost) be letting
> >
exhaust out early?
>
> Yes, can be but as said, this sounds pretty
normal. With this you'll see about 280-296hp on the flywheel.
>
Great,
thanks for the help..
> Hope this helps,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 22 10:28:09 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Exceeding the
Redline
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Precedence: bulk
To install the
manual boost controller, do the following:
1) There is a hose that goes
from the 4-way tee connector to the stock boost
control solenoid.
Remove this hose and cap the connector on the tee AND the
connector on the
stock solenoid. (Under stock operation when the stock solenoid
is open,
air is bled back into the intake before the rear turbo. This
causes
boost to build because there will be insufficient pressure on the
wastegates.
You want to remove this ability to bleed air off the
wastegates.)
2) Remove the hose that goes from the y-pipe connector
to the 4-way tee and
insert your manual boost controller in it's place.
(In stock configuration,
this is the pressure source. When the stock
solenoid is closed, the wastegates
will be acutated to the positive
pressure. With your manual controller, the
spring will block pressure
to the wastegates allowing boost to build. When the
ball & spring
opens, your wastegates will be acutated and boost will fall.)
Save the
hoses so you can remove the manual boost controller and return to stock
form
whenever you visit the dealer.
Good luck,
Ken
Merritt
wrote:
>
> Help. I'm trying to figure out how to install the
Redline manual boost
> controller (MBC). It's weird, but you turbo experts
may be able to figure
> it out.
>
> Quoting from the
so-called "installation brochure" from Redline (complete
> with
typos):
>
> The Redline boost controller uses a spring and ball
bearing. Here's how it
> works: pressure builds on the inlet side of the
valve (from the BOV line
> off the manifold) and begins to exert a
pressure on the ball opposite the
> spring. At some point the force
exerted by the air on the ball will equal
> the force exerted by the
spring. Up to this point, no air has been bled
> from your intake
system.
>
> To install: Attach the pressure fitting to the BOV with
a T fitting so that
> the ball see's boost...then attatch the air bleed to
the intake box where
> there is no boost pressure. The other end attaches
to the wastgate.
>
> To set boost, all you have to do is tighten
down the ends so that tension
> on the spring is increased. To lock
it,...insert the locking C rings over
> the threads.
>
>
Setting boost is that easy!
> ___________
>
> Any of you
turbo wizards out there have the foggiest idea of what he's
> talking
about? Attach it to the BOV where?
> Glenn Cope, who had one installed,
said he couldn't figure out how to make
> it work by following Redline's
instructions, but got it to work a different
> way. He says, "So I
went from the top line off of the y-pipe bend...hooked
> that into the MBC
and then fed the MBC directly into the waste gate hoses.
> I just plugged
off the stock solenoid hoses."
>
> Glen also thinks the system
is designed for single-turbo cars, such as
> Eclipses.
>
>
Here's the link if you want to look at it:
>
>
http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/RedlinePROformance.htm
>
> It's only
$59, so I don't mind tossing it if it's not going to work. I'll
> go to a
bleeder valve if this doesn't work.
>
> (No, I'm not getting an
electronic boost controller yet, because I am still
> under warranty. If I
blow it up, I need a system that can come off quickly
> and
easily.)
>
> Any ideas on how to make this work?
>
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
--
I'm surprised you stopped me
officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 22 10:50:05 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: plugs then boost controller?
References:
<38374403.9CDEE318@refuge.colorado.edu>
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> >
also, I'm trying to decide what bc I want.. from everything I've
read
> > here and starnet, the Apexi AVC-R seems to be a universal
favorite.. I
> > know it's been discussed several times lately,
but does anyone have
> > anything bad to say about this unit?
>
> It lacks of rpm AND IDC connection at the same time, is not that easy
to set up than others, has a big display that is not easy to fit somewhere, is
more
> expensive than others and has the wrong color that doesn't fit our
interiour
> lighting.
I know that Roger is just playing the devil's
advocate, but let me elaborate:
> It lacks of rpm AND IDC connection
at the same time
The new Apexi has one wire that can be installed on the
ECU's RPM wire OR the
IDC wire. When connected to the RPM wire, you
cannot monitor IDC. When
connected to the IDC wire, the display and
learning capabilities are invalid
when IDC reaches 100%. With a stock
fuel system, this happens at WOT in the
early 4200 RPM range.
> is
not that easy to set up than others
It has more parameters to specify to
utilize advanced functionalities such as
RPM specific boost settings, or gear
specific duty cycle adjustments, etc.
> has a big display that is not
easy to fit somewhere
The display is about 5" wide X 3" high X
1" deep. Not only is this used for
input specifications, but also
shows real-time digital readouts OR scrolling
graphs of up to 4 different
parameters.
> is more expensive than others
I paid $409 or $415
with shipping.
> and has the wrong color that doesn't fit our
interiour lighting
It is indiglo blue.
Regards,
Ken
--
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San
Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 11:11:14 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: plugs then boost controller?
References:
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> I know that
Roger is just playing the devil's advocate, but let me elaborate:
Harhar,
Ken knows me already. Bu I can tell that these arguments cannot
withstand
anything. I really had to find them, hehe.
> > is more expensive
than others
> I paid $409 or $415 with shipping.
Ken, you've been
one of the lucky guys. Apexi is not delivering the unit
to
"companies" who are selling the unit on a dumping price anymore.
I think $450 is
the minimum and the most are selling it for about $479-499.
As usual, first come
first serve.
BTW, I really like it and just wish
to be able to get the data out to a logging
device. I know, call me Scotty
;-)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Team3S: Stealth stereo
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From: Roger J Roskam@CHRYSLER on 11/22/99 10:10
AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
cc:
Subject: Stealth
stereo
Anyone wishing to modify their factory stereo should check out the
"222 hp
stereo" site for a bunch of great pictures of an ultimate
'93 Stealth R/T stereo
installation. There are some good before &
after pics of the stock stereo
speaker
locations.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/9907/stereo.html
Roger
J. Roskam
Investment and Systems Analyst
Benefit Funds
Investments
DaimlerChrysler Corporation
phone: (248)
512-3434
fax: (248) 512-3423
e-mail:
rjr15@dcx.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 14:29:13 1999
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov
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Subject: Team3S: Radiator fan not
working..............
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Okay, only
one of my radiator fans is working and the other isn't.
Any
ideas on why and what to do?
Thanks. Shannon
L
95
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 14:37:42 1999
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov
1999 17:37:15 EST
Subject: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement
dissapointment
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Okay, call
me childish, but I'm a little dissapointed in
Fixarim.com.
I called to get a quote on
getting one of my 18" rims touched up and they
quoted me at
$300.
Okay, no biggie, BUT they would offer NO WARRANTY
what so ever on any work
done to 3000GT
rims. At $1200 dollars a set (touched
up) and $3000 a
set (new), I'd be taking a huge risk letting
these guys 2,000 miles away
hold my rims for a month, strip them down,
and re chrome them, and then get
NO WARRANTY! They
said even if they were defective when I got the out of
the box there would
still be "ABSOLUTELY NO WARANTY ON ANY 3000GT
RIM"
SO, having dealt with so many
Warranty issues with Mitsubishi and so forth,
I am a little
dissapointed in 3si's choice to advertise for a company who
goes OUT OF
THEIR WAY TO OFFER NO WARRANTIES for work for our vehicles. is
there some other rim shop that could us better as a 3000GT community?
Or are
we to start buying parts and services for are cars with no
warranties???
NO WARRANTY, NO
ADVERTISEMENT is what I say!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 14:53:42 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'MitsuVR41@aol.com'" <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
Cc:
"'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Radiator fan not working..............
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999
14:52:53 -0800
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Shannon...
They are wired in series, not parallel. One comes
on at first then, if the
coolant temperature continues to rise, the other
turns on. I've watched it
happen, but never looked it up in the manual to see
what the switch
temperature settings are.
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
[mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 2:29 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Radiator fan not
working..............
Okay, only one of my radiator fans is working
and the other isn't. Any
ideas on why and what to
do?
Thanks. Shannon
L
95
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 14:59:25 1999
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From:
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To:
"'MitsuVR41@aol.com'" <MitsuVR41@aol.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement
dissapointment
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:58:51 -0800
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Shannon...
Two things going on here...
1. Shop around
if you don't like the arrangement that a particular vendor
offers. No big
deal, there may be a plating shop in your town. If not, you
can still search
the web, ask the list for other options, buy new rims, or
decide to leave
yours in their current condition.
2. We (the Admins) do NOT advertise for
anyone. Some listmembers have
recommended dealers, shops, vendors, etc. with
whom they've had good
experience. There are also listmembers that post
warnings about dealers,
shops, vendors, etc. with whom they have not been
satisfied. Either way,
these are personal opinions and statements, NOT Team
3S advertising.
Looking forward...Chris (for the
Admins)
-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
[mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 2:37 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement
dissapointment
Okay, call me childish, but I'm a little
dissapointed in Fixarim.com.
I called to get a quote on getting one of my
18" rims touched up and they
quoted me at $300.
Okay, no
biggie, BUT they would offer NO WARRANTY what so ever on any
work
done to 3000GT rims. At $1200
dollars a set (touched up) and $3000 a
set (new), I'd be
taking a huge risk letting these guys 2,000 miles away
hold my rims for a
month, strip them down, and re chrome them, and then
get
NO
WARRANTY! They said even if they were defective when I got the
out of
the box there would still be "ABSOLUTELY NO WARANTY ON ANY
3000GT RIM"
SO, having dealt with so many
Warranty issues with Mitsubishi and so forth,
I am a little dissapointed
in 3si's choice to advertise for a company who
goes OUT OF THEIR WAY TO
OFFER NO WARRANTIES for work for our vehicles. is
there some
other rim shop that could us better as a 3000GT community? Or
are
we to start buying parts and services for are cars with no
warranties???
NO WARRANTY, NO ADVERTISEMENT is what I
say!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 15:02:46 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Radiator fan not
working..............
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:02:29 -0600
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> They are
wired in series, not parallel. One comes on at first
> then, if the
coolant temperature continues to rise, the other
> turns on. I've
watched it happen, but never looked it up in
> the manual to see what the
switch temperature settings are.
The second one is also wired into the
same circuit that controls the air conditioning compressor, so when the AC is
on, the fan should come on also.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 15:10:02 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth
Stereo
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:55:17 -0800
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I have Boston Pros component set up front which fits the stock
locations
with no problem!
However, they require about 200 watts of
amplication.
Sam 95 VR4
-----Original Message-----
From:
Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, November 21, 1999 9:36
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth Stereo
>Team3S: I was
going to reply privately as this isn't really technical, but
>I thought
there might be others curious about it.. hope you all
don't
mind..
>
>Rah wrote:
>>
>> Hello all,
here to ask questions again,
>> I have a 93
Stealth R/T TT, and what I understand to be the premium
>> 6 speaker
sound system. I know currently Dodge's nicest stereos
>>
available are Infinity packages and along with those comes the
unusual
>> setup with their own amp and all. Does this apply
here?
>
>I think several options were available, but I believe all
3/S TT came with
>factory amplification (meaning, an external amp as
opposed to just the
>internal amp in the head unit) by 93.. not
positive on this though..
>someone please correct me if I'm
wrong..
>
>look under your passenger seat with it all the way
forward for a factory
>amp.. it'll be easy to spot.. (btw, you
can use aftermarket speakers with
>this amp, but not an aftermarket head
unit..)
>
>> I'm looking to maybe upgrade
the speakers at some point possibly, so
>> I'm also wondering what kind
of speakers there are(specifically size)?
>> And how hard they are to
change(whether or not the weird infinity thing
>> is involved
too)? Looking at the door speakers and rear ones the screen
>>
oughta just pop off, but the dash look like they could be more
involved.
>
>actually, it's just the opposite.. the dash
speakers just pop/pry out, but
>the door and rear speakers need to have
the panels (not the grills) removed
>to access them..
>
>the
dash speakers are the worst of the bunch to replace as far
as
aftermarket
>options go.. they're 3" (not 3.5") and
nobody seems to make that odd
size..
>(please, somebody tell me I'm
wrong because I need to replace these
myself..)
>I think the door
speakers are 6.5" and the rears are 6"x9", with plenty
of
>options available.. just make sure to watch out for mounting
depth
problems
>before you fall in love with the sound of a particular
speaker..
>
>hope that
helps..
>
>--
>Dave
>95 Black 3000GT VR4
>87 Mica
Red GTI G60
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 22 15:13:12 1999
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From:
"Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S
List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Front
fascia repainting?
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 15:13:01 -0800
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Ok, so all the
rock chips and spider cracks (lower lip) on my front fascia
are beginning to
get to me :) So, I'm considering repainting the front
fascia...well,
actually paying someone with more equipment and expertise
than I to do
it:)
So:
1) Can the (urethane?) fascia have dents knocked
out? I know it's not
sheet metal and that some plastics deform
permanently :( There are a few
small dents in it(rocks), and the area
around the right headlight is
ever-so-slightly deformed (prev. owner
rear-ended someone, I think). So
can these be removed, or am I
stuck with them?
2) Will it be cheaper to have the old fascia prepped
(ignoring #1) and
painted, or just buy a new one and have it
painted?
3) I have a pearl white car - can they match the pearl
paint? It's a
95, been in service since July, 1995, and been garaged
its entire life.
Also, it's been either in the northeast of northwest (USA),
so I'd imagine
the sun hasn't done too much to it. Maybe it'll
match? <fingers crossed>
4) If the existing paint has faded
slightly, can they blend pearl
paints?
5) <the big one>
How much would be reasonable to expect to pay (either
prepping/painting or
just painting). I want it to look good, so I ain't
plannin to go to no
Maaco:)
Thanks for your
input!
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 63,000
mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash
adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
44K FI cleaner. Change
oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi
***
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 15:27:52 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then boost
controller?
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 18:13:45 -0800
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>
>> is more expensive than others
>
>I
paid $409 or $415 with shipping.
>
>> and has the wrong color
that doesn't fit our interiour lighting
>
I bought mine for $380 from
www.apexvr4.com, but I think the price went
up, Mine fits perfectly in
the console where the cd cases should go in
front
of the cup holder.
I bought a small adjustable cup holder and mounted it
upside
down in the
console and velcroed the controller to it so it sits flush with
the
top.
It looks good in there, is unobtrusive and does not cause a glare
problem at
night. In fact, I hid all the solenoids and sensors so well,
the dealer
mechanics
still have not noticed it. I even ran
fake vacuum lines to the stock
solenoid for
show!
Sam 95
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 15:39:04 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond
ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 18:24:59 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
<robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, November 19, 1999 12:25
AM
Subject: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
>FYI,
forwarded from the 3Si board :
>
>Here's what we came up with for a
group buy on the GT-PRO Split Second:
>
>Normal Price
$1049.00
>
>Purchase Price with 15 people $949.00
>Purchase
Price with 25 People $899.00
>
>For Details, please check out our
website at www.dynamicracing1.com and
look
>under Monthly Specials or
give us a call at (505) 430-4850.
>
>Thanks,
>Dan 'Dynamic
Racing'
>
Is anyone starting a list? I am sure we can get 25
people to purchase one
of these
fuel controllers, especially since they
have developed them for use in the
N/A cars.
Did anyone publish dyno
results on the N/As? If there is like a 25-50 h.p.
benefit,
I think
anyone with a non-turbo would jump for joy, since their mods are
quite
limited
ie. turbo-zet etc. I need a Christmas gift for
myself!!
Sam 95 VR4 Apex AVCr 1 kg/cm2, HKS SSBOV, Stillen DP (one
cat), K&N
FIPK
Powerstop x-drilled rotors, perf friction pads,
A-pillar boost, Greddy
TT
custom brake cooling-two plastic flexible gutter
drains! -NGKr at
.038
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 16:22:35 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then boost
controller?
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:07:44 -0800
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>Hy Sam,
>
>please advise when you last time
have contacted Indra Mahesa, ex-manager of
>Apexvr4?
>it's important
for me, cause now i'm having a problem with apex - when
>placed an order,
contacted Indra, now they say Indra is fired and they
don't
>know
anything about my order and
money.....
>
>Thanks,
>Olegs,
>94 3kgt VR4
Uh
Oh!! I bought stuff from them at the end of September 1999.
I bought a
D.P., a Greddy turbo timer, and an A-pillar gauge. I bought
the boost
controller in August. He told me there was a new owner and
he actually
sounded a little pushy on the phone to get me to buy a full
cat-back (I want
a stealth look so no way!!). I do not know what to tell
you
except
if you used credit cards, call them and complain, they will find out
what
happened. If you used a MAC card, if it has a VISA or MC logo,
the
bank
can take care of it through those agencies. Do not wait
long to take
action!
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 22 16:24:53 1999
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From: "B Collett"
<hcollett@ihug.co.nz>
To: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>,
"Team 3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 12:32:02
+1300
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-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, 23 November 1999
00:20
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
> Not sure on the
pressure yet, we are trying that later today.
> Do you know if it is a two
speed pump?
> Not sure on the voltage, standard 3000GT pump?
> I was
on idle when I did that test.
>Nonono, at idle you are having a vacuum
that lowers fuel pressure, the
>pump is switched down to about 6-8 Volts
or even less and therefore >the
flow is minimal :-) Testing is not always
easy !
OK, thanks for that. I still know that mine is very tired
though.
> Yes I already have Hybrid 15G's with larger turbine wheel
for quicker
> responce at low rev's. I am running the HKS EVC 4,
have a HKS F-Con.
> I also have 550cc injectors that I can use but I don't
think I need them
at this stage.
> It is bored out to 3.2L with forged
pistons and compression of 7.8 : 1
> All heads ported and polished and
flowed. Portmatched.
> I don't have to have a Cat here, I have a straight
3.5" pipe so no
problems
> there..
>Nice setup, although
I still don't like the F-Con. If you ever have the
>chance sell it and
either get a VPC or ARC/MAF kit. You'll get much >better
results out of
it. And I can tell you that you NEED the fuel IF you >are
running more
than 15psi. This, because our cars need to run >super-rich to
avoid knock
and the ECU does taking care of this and >the injectors are
maxxed out
even at 15psi ! Fue lcut will then jump in >at about 17psi as the
values
are jumping out of the map.
Yeah the F-Con was a very old mod for my
car, when it was new + the old HKS
EVC 1 which I have replaced with the 4
just need to get rid of the F-Con and
get the VPC. My car was all modified as
soon as it was brought into the
country from new by Mitsubishi.
I was
talking to Apexi today but such a computer is much to expensive for
me
because of the American dollar, everything doubles for me.. so things
from
NZ might be cheap for you.. how about a Pod filter for $75
US?
>BUT: You have a lot of internals changed and I believe it is not
fully 3.2l
>as the walls would be too thin. Anyways it is about 3.12
liters and this
>overbore can give you alot power. I believe that the even
lower
>compression is responsible for much less knock as well as the
forged
>pistons are.
I was told it was 3.2L, engine bored the
same as that done on a jet boat and
the class cannot be incorrect as it is a
world class champion boat and are
regulary checked. Sonic tested by engineers
and told it was perfectly safe.
> I have fancy valve springs that are
suppose to be able to stand 20psi
> without blowing the valve of it's
seat.
>Idle is still ok ? Sometimes so heavy valve-springs do create
more >stree
to the adjusters/cams and you may need also stronger parts
>there !
Idle is
fine. I hope not...
:-)
> Ok so I am pretty sweet just need the fuel pump and filter
and the
computer
> that will correctly map my flow and stop fuel
cut.
>The filter is ok if not clogged but, as mentioned, get a used
VPC (Brad
>Bedell is selling some parts) and you'll be able to get much
more out ?>of
it as you do today.
Brad Bedell, can you tell me
his Email address?
My old filter was genuine and rusted and pretty much
stuffed, I installed
the new fake one and it made no difference.. I am going
to test the filters
and if the new one is no better I am going to be
mad..
>Damn, you definitely invested A LOT in your car and I'm sure
that it will
>withstand 20psi easily. Just make sure to measure the intake
>temperature
before the throttle body as you may start to think about a
>FMIC setup that
is able to deliver the desired bosot and air at the
>same time.
I hope so, Few mates are quickly modifing their GTR's
and I have to hurry
:-)
FMIC? whats that?
> Pump will be here in
a couple of days and new filter also.
> Just need to find the
BEST/CHEAPEST computer.
>Those words do not go together. You can get a
used VPC setup alone >for
$600 used, but dunno what chip is included then
and if it is fully >working.
I recommend the ARC2-GP MAF kit as I have
good >experience with it (only a
little problem with temps under -5°C)
and it >handles anything around fuel
and air. Well, it is another
$1000
>(including air filter) but
I belive you can sell the F-Con to minimize
>costs. This setup, with 20psi
of boost, you'll be able to run into the
11s >for sure and power will be
around 560hp or so.
Seems like
I still have to spend a few grand yet... We have a computer
system here in
New Zealand called LINK but some poeple say they are no good
and some live by
them? but they are ruffly $400US for the full setup.
Have a few little
problems to fix yet also, front seal needs to be replaced,
damn guy that did
the engine did not replace it..
Also get a full set of new mags, my ones are
rather weak after numerous pot
holes, they are the Mitsubishi 2 piece
directional mags and the insurance
company can't find them so I get a new set
of anything :-)
+ Son crashed Nissan GTS-4 skyline, needs new wheel,
suspension...
Man cars are a pain some times ... :-)
>Get the good
fuel control and you will get more than you wanted :))
Will do
:-)
What about exausts?, I have about three setup's, 2 HKS free flows, 1
huge
straight pipe (LOUD), would it be much better with the big one
or
would it make hardly any difference. I relize everyone alse has to use
Cats
etc...
One last thing... Clutch, all this power is starting to cause
problems. I
have a Kevlar clutch but large drops just slip it..
Any
Ideas??
Henry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 22 17:01:41 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: SplitSecond
ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:01:25 -0600
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> Is anyone
starting a list? I am sure we can get 25 people to
> purchase one
of these fuel controllers, especially since they
> have developed them for
use in the N/A cars.
> Did anyone publish dyno results on the N/As?
If there is
> like a 25-50 h.p. benefit,
> I think anyone with a
non-turbo would jump for joy, since
> their mods are quite
limited
> ie. turbo-zet etc. I need a Christmas gift for
myself!!
I'm planning on buying one in the spring, however if the Group
Purchase saved a significant amount of money (the $899 level) then I'd be
inclined to join in on the purchase. The car is in storage for the winter,
so it doesn't really help me much to get it sooner than then.
Next steps
for the car:
15G turbos (thanks Jeff!), ported only - no
clip
ARC2-GP
440 or 550 injectors (not sure which way to go with these
-
I don't think I'll ever run over 19
psi
of boost)
Put the Blitz super-sound BOV back on
Fuel pump?
After
I'm to that point, I don't think I'm going to do anything more to the car.
Since it is rather rare, I don't want to affect the value of the car by going
crazy with it. If I feel a need for more speed, I'll by a Kawasaki
ZX-12. :-)
I figure low 12's should be fairly easy with that setup,
and that's plenty good for what I want to do. If I break into the 11's I
have to do a rollcage, and that would suck for this car.
-Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
HKS EVC IV, Spearco H2O injection, Magnacores, K&N
FIPK, Borla exhaust, Alamo downpipe, high-flow
cat
13.230@103.62
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 17:14:28 1999
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From: "Mark Wendlandt"
<stealth_tt@hotmail.com>
To: sshelat@erols.com,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP
GroupPurchase
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:14:05 CST
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Sam,
I
sent an email to Dan at 'Dynamic Racing' and he is keeping the list. I'm
signed up for one!!!
Let's get the price down to $899. Matt J.
have you signed up yet??
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
www.dynamicracing1.com and
>look
>
>under Monthly Specials or give us a call at (505) 430-4850.
>
>
> >Thanks,
> >Dan 'Dynamic Racing'
> >
>Is
anyone starting a list? I am sure we can get 25 people to purchase
one
>of these
>fuel
controllers,
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 22 17:23:37 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:23:23
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> Let's get
the price down to $899. Matt J. have you signed up yet??
I'm signed
up, conditional that the price becomes $899.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 17:46:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: "Gross, Erik"
<erik.gross@intel.com>
cc: "'Team3S List'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia
repainting?
In-Reply-To:
<4148FEAAD879D311AC5700A0C969E8905A841B@orsmsx35.jf.intel.com>
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I recently used
the "Ding King" in Santa Clara (bay area) for my dad's
1998 BMW
528i. The rear bumper had some DEEP scratches that were HIDEOUS
(i mean they
were BAD>. about 12 inches long, DEEP, and wide.. (hey sounds
like me! :P
sorry, had to). He charged $350 to do: paint the rear bumper,
fix a chip in
the windshield and go around the front of the car and fill
in
nicks..
Was it a good job? YES! There was a TINY TINY run on the bumper
that was
only noticeable if you stare at it... and all the nicks on the front
of
the car were gone. The best part -- he did it with the body piece on
the
car, at my house, in my garage, and we could drive the car 2 hours
later.
I HIGHLY recomend his owrk, and will be using him to repaint my
front
bumper after my ABS incident..
The Ding
King
408-243-8778
Santa Clara, Ca
95055
www.dingking.com
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Mon, 22 Nov 1999, Gross, Erik wrote:
> Ok, so all the
rock chips and spider cracks (lower lip) on my front fascia
> are
beginning to get to me :) So, I'm considering repainting the front
>
fascia...well, actually paying someone with more equipment and expertise
>
than I to do it:)
>
>
> So:
>
>
> 1) Can
the (urethane?) fascia have dents knocked out? I know it's not
>
sheet metal and that some plastics deform permanently :( There are a
few
> small dents in it(rocks), and the area around the right headlight
is
> ever-so-slightly deformed (prev. owner rear-ended someone, I
think). So
> can these be removed, or am I stuck with
them?
>
> 2) Will it be cheaper to have the old fascia prepped
(ignoring #1) and
> painted, or just buy a new one and have it
painted?
>
> 3) I have a pearl white car - can they match the pearl
paint? It's a
> 95, been in service since July, 1995, and been
garaged its entire life.
> Also, it's been either in the northeast of
northwest (USA), so I'd imagine
> the sun hasn't done too much to
it. Maybe it'll match? <fingers crossed>
>
> 4)
If the existing paint has faded slightly, can they blend pearl
>
paints?
>
> 5) <the big one> How much would be
reasonable to expect to pay (either
> prepping/painting or just
painting). I want it to look good, so I ain't
> plannin to go to no
Maaco:)
>
>
> Thanks for your input!
> --Erik
>
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC,
5-speed) 63,000 mi
>
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
> Magnacor KV85 spark
plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
> K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator
intact
> Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
> ***No more
ticking lash adjusters! Treated with GM EOS, BG
>
44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 22 18:40:52 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Gross, Erik"
<erik.gross@intel.com>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Front fascia repainting?
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 17:39:39
-0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Gross, Erik
<erik.gross@intel.com>
>Ok, so all the rock chips and spider cracks
(lower lip) on my front
fascia
>are beginning to get to me :) So,
I'm considering repainting the
front
>fascia...well, actually paying
someone with more equipment and
expertise
>than I to do it:)
>1)
Can the (urethane?) fascia have dents knocked out? I know
it's
not
>sheet metal and that some plastics deform permanently
:( There are
a few
>small dents in it(rocks), and the area around
the right headlight
is
>ever-so-slightly deformed (prev. owner
rear-ended someone, I
think). So
>can these be removed, or
am I stuck with them?
Moderate deformations cannot be knocked out of
urethane, but they
can be repaired easily by a good detailing shop.
It's not
inexpensive for several of these (probably a few hundred
$,
including painting) but it can be done. I recommend using the
same
shop the dealerships in your area use... They rarely do their
own
work.
>2) Will it be cheaper to have the old fascia prepped
(ignoring #1)
and
>painted, or just buy a new one and have it
painted?
'Prepped' sounds exactly like #1; moderate filling,
sanding,
painting... A new one is over $700, if I remember correctly,
plus
fitting & painting.
>3) I have a pearl white car - can
they match the pearl paint? It's
a
>95, been in service since
July, 1995, and been garaged its entire
life.
>Also, it's been either
in the northeast of northwest (USA), so I'd
imagine
>the sun hasn't
done too much to it. Maybe it'll match?
<fingers
crossed>
>4) If the existing paint has faded slightly,
can they blend pearl
>paints?
>5) <the big one> How much
would be reasonable to expect to pay
(either
>prepping/painting or just
painting). I want it to look good, so I
ain't
>plannin to go to
no Maaco:)
My guess is $300 to $500, unless you live in the
boonies. You get
what you pay for. Any shop good enough to claim
they can match a
specialty paint wants to be paid for their
expertise... I've had it
done by a good shop but it's hard to say what
it cost me, because
other repairs were involved. For various door
dings, fender dings
and fascia crunch repair from a parking lot hit-and-run,
I paid
$1100, but the car looked as new when they were done.
(Don't
forget, the Bay Area is the priciest in the country, so you
might
pay less...).
Best,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 22 22:23:51 1999
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From:
"3000gtvr4" <gtovr4@postalzone.com>
To: "Sam
Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>,
"team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 22:29:15
-0800
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Hi Sam,
Errin and I might be interested if the price goes
lower, Otherwise we will
purchase it when the time comes. Keep in touch
yah?
Later
Julian Ng
94 VR4 Pear White Milk
Tea
gtovr4@postalzone.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam
Shelat <sshelat@erols.com>
To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 22, 1999 3:39
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP
GroupPurchase
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>To: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Date: Friday, November 19, 1999
12:25 AM
>Subject: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC2-GP
GroupPurchase
>
>
>>FYI, forwarded from the 3Si board
:
>>
>>Here's what we came up with for a group buy on the
GT-PRO Split Second:
>>
>>Normal Price
$1049.00
>>
>>Purchase Price with 15 people
$949.00
>>Purchase Price with 25 People
$899.00
>>
>>For Details, please check out our website at
www.dynamicracing1.com and
>look
>>under Monthly Specials or give
us a call at (505) 430-4850.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Dan
'Dynamic Racing'
>>
>Is anyone starting a list? I am sure
we can get 25 people to purchase one
>of these
>fuel controllers,
especially since they have developed them for use in the
>N/A
cars.
>Did anyone publish dyno results on the N/As? If there is like
a 25-50 h.p.
>benefit,
>I think anyone with a non-turbo would jump
for joy, since their mods are
>quite limited
>ie. turbo-zet
etc. I need a Christmas gift for myself!!
>
>Sam 95 VR4
Apex AVCr 1 kg/cm2, HKS SSBOV, Stillen DP (one cat), K&N
FIPK
>
Powerstop x-drilled rotors, perf friction pads,
>A-pillar boost, Greddy
TT
>
custom brake cooling-two plastic flexible gutter
>drains! -NGKr at
.038
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 00:23:05 1999
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From: "R.G."
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To: "team3s"
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References:
<01bf3559$f05dbde0$85b0accf@default>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond
ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 09:24:12 +0100
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> Is anyone
starting a list? I am sure we can get 25 people to purchase one of
these
> fuel controllers, especially since they have developed them for
use in the N/A cars.
> Did anyone publish dyno results on the N/As?
If there is like a 25-50 h.p benefit,
> I think anyone with a non-turbo
would jump for joy, since their mods are quite limited
> ie. turbo-zet
etc. I need a Christmas gift for myself!!
Ahem, first the ARC for
the NAs is calibrated but not yet tested and second, why should an NA car gain
from the more fuel ?? Please note that the NA do have even smaller injectors and
therefore do not have a lot benefit. It will flow more air and therefore needs
more fuel too but, to be honest, I do not expect a big gain. Ok, on a NA
everything helps :-) Hope to see some real dyno figures
soon.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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CC: Team 3S Tech List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Fuel Pump.
(etc.)
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> I was
talking to Apexi today but such a computer is much to expensive for me
>
because of the American dollar, everything doubles for me.. so things
from
> NZ might be cheap for you.. how about a Pod filter for $75
US?
Apexi ? They do only make ECUs for the Nissans/Toyotas but not for
us. The AFCs
are universal but not recommended for your setup !
> I
was told it was 3.2L, engine bored the same as that done on a jet boat
and
> the class cannot be incorrect as it is a world class champion boat
and are
> regulary checked. Sonic tested by engineers and told it was
perfectly safe.
So you are running our engine in a jet-boat, right ? Or
did anyone else put into
another thing than a car ?
> Brad Bedell,
can you tell me his Email address?
Info on Brad (I hope I remembered it
correctly that he's sellign his
stuff)
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682
> FMIC? whats
that?
Basic term : Front Mount InterCooler
> Seems like I still
have to spend a few grand yet... We have a computer
> system here in New
Zealand called LINK but some poeple say they are no good
> and some live
by them? but they are ruffly $400US for the full setup.
LINK is known for
some ignition boxes on the Japanese market. Never heard of
them elswhere and
I do not know anything. They seem to be related to FIELD.
> + Son
crashed Nissan GTS-4 skyline, needs new wheel, suspension...
> Man cars
are a pain some times ... :-)
Expensive son !
> What about
exausts?, I have about three setup's, 2 HKS free flows, 1 huge
> straight
pipe (LOUD), would it be much better with the big one
> or would it make
hardly any difference. I relize everyone alse has to use
> Cats
etc...
I have to use cats, withough I highly recommend to gut or replace
the precats.
The front one can be replaced by making a pipe but the rear one
is almost
impossible. I therefore recommend you to gut it. Then get a good
downpipe and a
high flow cat and the HKS free flow will doing the rest, quiet
but good enough.
In my point of view, the precats and the y-pipe MUST be done
after upgrading the
turbos. Even the precats will give you some gain with the
smaller turbos as the
pressure difference is better and they may spool up
quicker.
> One last thing... Clutch, all this power is starting to
cause problems. I
> have a Kevlar clutch but large drops just slip
it..
> Any Ideas??
A lot :) Well, I'd say to go for an RPS clutch
although I haven't installed mine
(Turbo Carbon) as the stock clutch ist
still alive. But for this I'd serach the
archives as there was a lot talk
recently.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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To: team3s
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Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond
ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
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For further
details on the Group Purchase and discussion about price and
availability
please contact Dan from 'Dynamic Racing' directly (
www.dynamicracing1.com,
(505) 430-4850) or email personally to the participants.
If one hears that
they do need more people please feel free to post a reminder
to the list once
in a while.
Of course, Tech stuff can be discussed here and I can give
you about every
information on it you need.
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 03:32:41 1999
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To: team3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: plugs then ...
(apex shop, filter)
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I was lucky to
get one or two parts from him delviered quickly but with UPS what
was way too
expensive to get it over here. Indra sold the parts too cheap and
got some
"nice" letters from Apexi and others. I dunno what the new owner
does
but .. we'll see.
BTW, DO NOT buy the cheap filter kit for our
cars from them !!! The flange for
the MAS doesn't fit properly and have to
machined (its cast aluminum and 1/4 the
quality of K&N) The filter is a
K&N, larger in dia but shorter. The cap of the
filter is painted yellow
and this looks HORRIBLE ! I wanted to sell it in a
Stage 1 kit but I just
felt bad giving the thing to a customer. Well, one will
get a real cheap
filter upgrade ! Make sure you are getting the Aircharger for
the 2nd gen DSM
as it comes with the great K&N quality flange and the larger
filter than
our FIPK has. The only drawback is that the two brackets holding the
MAS are
not included and the chrome filter cap as a bolt welded in (urgh). But
it
defintiely works good :)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 06:11:46 1999
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From: XxFiretamerxX@aol.com
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia repainting?
To:
erik.gross@intel.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Well I can
answer a few of your questions. I just got my '93 Pearl R/T
repainted, and I
searched and searched, but I got this answer from Mitsu
dealers, Dodge
dealers and paint shops. They don't make that shade of pearl
paint anymore
(very unfortunately) I had to get my whole car repainted
(2,500) with a
Dupont equivalent (which is unfortunately more white, but
still with a pearl
tinge) Yes it is possible to blend a pearl paint job, but
it is very hard to
do, you must have a VERY good paint man with alot of
experience! But like I
said, they don't make that shade anymore. Looks like a
completely new paint
job for any of us pearl 3000/Stealth owners if we aren't
satisfied w/ the
minor scratches, dings and dents. Oh well. Good luck! (P.S.
yes they can fix
the minor dings in plastic, by filling them and smoothing
them with plastic
putty, but they cannot remove them.)I got mine done and it
looks beautiful.
Check it out at....
http://members.aol.com/xxfiretamerxx/index.html
Hope I helped a
little!
ED
XxFiretamerxX@aol.com
'93 Stealth R/T
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 07:29:20 1999
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"Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia
repainting?
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:26:42 -0500
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That's interesting... I had my '95 3KGT base touched up a few
months ago.
My
body man told me he never wanted to EVER do that again...
<smile!> But it
came
out perfect. You can't tell where
the new paint starts and the old begins.
He had the
car for over a week
and he only charged me $125.00. Outrageous, huh? I
think
he
only charged me that because I've brought a lot of people in
there,
everybody in my
family uses him and he put me out for over a
week. I think he planned on
charging
me $400. I had all the
dings, rock bruises and scratches taken off the
front fascia,
a scratch
taken out of one side skirt and a door totally
repainted....
-G
>Well I can answer a few of your questions. I
just got my '93 Pearl R/T
>repainted, and I searched and searched, but I
got this answer from Mitsu
>dealers, Dodge dealers and paint shops. They
don't make that shade of pearl
>paint anymore (very unfortunately) I had
to get my whole car repainted
>(2,500) with a Dupont equivalent (which is
unfortunately more white, but
>still with a pearl tinge) Yes it is
possible to blend a pearl paint job,
but
>it is very hard to do, you
must have a VERY good paint man with alot of
>experience! But like I said,
they don't make that shade anymore. Looks like
a
>completely new paint
job for any of us pearl 3000/Stealth owners if we
aren't
>satisfied w/
the minor scratches, dings and dents. Oh well. Good luck!
(P.S.
>yes
they can fix the minor dings in plastic, by filling them and
smoothing
>them with plastic putty, but they cannot remove them.)I got
mine done and
it
>looks beautiful. Check it out
at....
>http://members.aol.com/xxfiretamerxx/index.html
>
Hope I helped a
little!
>
>
ED
>
XxFiretamerxX@aol.com
>
'93 Stealth R/T
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 23 09:31:06 1999
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From: "Eric Lotter"
<elotter@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3si.org advertisement dissapointment
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999
09:30:42 PST
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As the webmaster for 3si.org I cannot find any reference in the
benefits
section that recommends or endorses this vendor. If they have
offered some
kind of discount when you use the organization's name, 3si.org,
not to be
confused with Team 3S, and they do not satisfy your needs as a
consumer,
please feel free to direct them to me.
I am striving to
find vendors tha offer quality goods and services with the
supported needed
to make the relationship succeed.
Eric
Lotter
webmaster@3si.org
>From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
>To: "'MitsuVR41@aol.com'"
<MitsuVR41@aol.com>,
>stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: 3si.org
advertisement dissapointment
>Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:58:51
-0800
>
>Shannon...
>
>Two things going on
here...
>
>1. Shop around if you don't like the arrangement that a
particular vendor
>offers. No big deal, there may be a plating shop in
your town. If not, you
>can still search the web, ask the list for other
options, buy new rims, or
>decide to leave yours in their current
condition.
>
>2. We (the Admins) do NOT advertise for anyone. Some
listmembers have
>recommended dealers, shops, vendors, etc. with whom
they've had good
>experience. There are also listmembers that post
warnings about dealers,
>shops, vendors, etc. with whom they have not been
satisfied. Either way,
>these are personal opinions and statements, NOT
Team 3S advertising.
>
>Looking forward...Chris (for the
Admins)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
[mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
>Sent: Monday, November 22, 1999 2:37
PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: 3si.org
advertisement dissapointment
>
>
>Okay, call me
childish, but I'm a little dissapointed in Fixarim.com.
>
>I
called to get a quote on getting one of my 18" rims touched up and
they
>quoted me at $300.
>Okay, no biggie, BUT
they would offer NO WARRANTY what so ever on any
>work
>done to
3000GT rims. At $1200 dollars a set
(touched up) and $3000
>a
>
>set (new), I'd be
taking a huge risk letting these guys 2,000 miles away
>hold my rims for a
month, strip them down, and re chrome them, and
then
>get
>NO WARRANTY! They said even if they
were defective when I got the out of
>the box there would still be
"ABSOLUTELY NO WARANTY ON ANY 3000GT RIM"
>SO, having
dealt with so many Warranty issues with Mitsubishi and so
>forth,
>
>I am a little dissapointed in 3si's choice to
advertise for a company who
>goes OUT OF THEIR WAY TO OFFER NO WARRANTIES
for work for our vehicles.
>is
>
>there some
other rim shop that could us better as a 3000GT community?
Or
>are
>we to start buying parts and services for are cars with no
warranties???
>
>NO WARRANTY, NO ADVERTISEMENT is what I
say!
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 23 10:08:32 1999
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From: "Dg B"
<dbretton@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:08:09
EST
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Hello
all,
While driving my car today (93 Stealth base), I noticed
a small 'thump'
noise (almost like a very dull pop) when going over bumps
every now and
again.
I haven't looked into it yet, but does anyone
have any ideas?
The car has new front struts (GAB) and new springs all
the way around
(Ground
Control).
TIA!
-Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 23 10:12:02 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Dg
B'" <dbretton@hotmail.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thump noise when over a
bump
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:14:40 -0800
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Id like to say
bad strut, dead/missing/busted bushing, loose ball joint,
..overall something
is loose somewhere in there.
Sounds like a broad statement, but..thats
what it is.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dg B
[mailto:dbretton@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 10:08
AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Thump noise when
over a bump
Hello all,
While driving my car today
(93 Stealth base), I noticed a small 'thump'
noise (almost like a very dull
pop) when going over bumps every now and
again.
I haven't looked into
it yet, but does anyone have any ideas?
The car has new front struts
(GAB) and new springs all the way around
(Ground
Control).
TIA!
-Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 10:18:43 1999
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From: Todd Leveck
<todd.leveck@hyattdiecast.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Thump noise when
over a bump
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 10:12:03 -0800
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check your tires
for a nail or screw head...
todd
93 vr4
-----Original
Message-----
From: Dg B [mailto:dbretton@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
November 23, 1999 10:08 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Thump noise when over a bump
Hello all,
While driving my car today (93 Stealth base), I noticed a small 'thump'
noise (almost like a very dull pop) when going over bumps every now and
again.
I haven't looked into it yet, but does anyone have any
ideas?
The car has new front struts (GAB) and new springs all the way
around
(Ground
Control).
TIA!
-Dennis
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 10:25:44 1999
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From: Aso8@aol.com
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Message-ID: <0.854a0deb.256c3609@aol.com>
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:25:13 EST
Subject: Team3S: New flow bench numbers
To:
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I just got my
new flow bench numbers
Intake side 283.5 Exhaust side
236
The stock flows are below to compare :)
Arty 91
VR-4
Valve Intake
Exhaust
lift
0.100"
86 80
0.200"
165 164
0.300"
230 191
0.400"
246 195
0.500"
249 196
0.600"
251 196
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 10:33:15 1999
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To:
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Subject: Team3S: springs
Date: Tue,
23 Nov 1999 10:33:50 -0800
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what is the general consensus for lowering the stock 92 3000GT VR4
with
(active) electronic controlled suspension safely (won't damage
electronics
or bottom out), comfortably (best balance of ride and handling),
and
affordably (<$250). Car is mostly for aggressive street
use:
I'm guessing the best to worst are in this order:
Eibach
ProKit
RSR
Ground Control
Intrax
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From
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Message-ID: <006c01bf35ed$4a70f020$140100b6@monster>
Reply-To:
"Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Thump noise when
over a bump
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 14:59:39 -0500
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That's too funny. I've got my '95 3KGT base in the shop
today for
what sounds exactly like your dull popping noise. This is
going
to wind up being a strut mount problem... I'll know more in about
an
hour... stay tuned, film at 11:00
-G
>Hello
all,
>
> While driving my car today (93 Stealth base), I
noticed a small 'thump'
>noise (almost like a very dull pop) when going
over bumps every now and
>again.
>
>I haven't looked into it
yet, but does anyone have any ideas?
>
>The car has new front struts
(GAB) and new springs all the way around
>(Ground
Control).
>
>TIA!
>
>-Dennis
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 23 12:29:40 1999
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From: Aso8@aol.com
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Message-ID: <0.273aa979.256c530e@aol.com>
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 15:29:02 EST
Subject: Team3S: Total Seal Rings -
Info.
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
CC: Aso8@aol.com
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I had asked my
engine builder about using the "Total Seal Rings" for my
motor.
According to him...
He had dynoed other motors before & after
the installation of these rings.
The dyno showed NO HP Improvement. Only on a
Leak Down Test did it show any
advantage for blow bye.
Just thought I'd
pass it on.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 12:50:11 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'gil_lee@usa.net'" <gil_lee@usa.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: springs
Date: Tue, 23
Nov 1999 12:48:46 -0800
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Gil...
I
have the Eibach progressive springs and have been VERY pleased with
them.
They resulted in a 1.125" drop. I don't think any more of a drop
would leave
the car streetable. I have no point of comparison with the other
brands so I
can't tell you if they're any "better" than
others.
Looking forward...Chris
-----Original
Message-----
From: gil_lee@usa.net [mailto:gil_lee@usa.net]
Sent: Tuesday,
November 23, 1999 10:34 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: springs
what is the general consensus for lowering the stock 92
3000GT VR4 with
(active) electronic controlled suspension safely (won't
damage electronics
or bottom out), comfortably (best balance of ride and
handling), and
affordably (<$250). Car is mostly for aggressive
street use:
I'm guessing the best to worst are in this
order:
Eibach ProKit
RSR
Ground Control
Intrax
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 14:38:40 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 16:29:21 -0600
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: My Getrag is back among the
living
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Just got my VR4
back from the Mitsu dealer. As you may or may not recall, I
took it in for
leaks, and they were going to replace it with a new one
under
warranty.
Turned out they did not replace the Getrag. The dealer said
that the tranny
is just blowing fluid out the top vent, and Mitsubishi has a
fix for it. It
involves adding some sort of check valve and a longer vent
tube. It's a $5
fix that requires four hours of labor just to get to the
place where the
fix is made.
Seems that Monteros have the same
problem.
In any case, my Getrag did not die, fail, or suffer from leaky
seals. Just
an overactive vent.
I will, of course, continue to check
for leaks. I have a great Mitsu dealer
(Zimmerman Ford/Mitsu in Cedar Rapids)
but I've learned not to trust Mitsu
corporate.
BTW: I played
with the idea of trying some of your dragstrip starts and
full power shifts.
I said to myself, "myself, if they are replacing the
tranny anyway,
what's the harm in running it up to the rev limiter and
dropping the
clutch?" But I couldn't bring myself to abusing machinery that
way. I
don't know how you drag strip people do it. Especially when there is
a $3,000
tranny at stake.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/still on my 2nd Getrag.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 15:06:27 1999
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Reply-To:
"Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: springs
Date:
Tue, 23 Nov 1999 18:03:52 -0500
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bulk
Awesome... There may be a set of Eibach's in my future...
<just don't
tell my wife... koff..>
I just
got back from the Mitsu dealer and it is, indeed, a strut mount.
Going
in on Pearl Harbor day to get it replaced.
-G
>I have the
Eibach progressive springs and have been VERY pleased with them.
>They
resulted in a 1.125" drop. I don't think any more of a drop
would
leave
>the car streetable. I have no point of comparison with the
other brands so
I
>can't tell you if they're any "better"
than others.
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: gil_lee@usa.net [mailto:gil_lee@usa.net]
>Sent:
Tuesday, November 23, 1999 10:34 AM
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S:
springs
>
>what is the general consensus for lowering the stock 92
3000GT VR4 with
>(active) electronic controlled suspension safely (won't
damage electronics
>or bottom out), comfortably (best balance of ride and
handling), and
>affordably (<$250). Car is mostly for aggressive
street use:
>
>I'm guessing the best to worst are in this
order:
>
>Eibach ProKit
>RSR
>Ground
Control
>Intrax
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 23 15:27:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 24
Nov 1999 00:26:34 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Reply-To: robby@swissonline.ch
Organization:
Behind the frontier
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Total Seal Rings -
Info.
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> I had asked
my engine builder about using the "Total Seal Rings" for my
motor.
> According to him...
> He had dynoed other motors before
& after the installation of these rings.
I've never seen the same
results of an engine before and after a teardown just
because there are sooo
many factors that are different.
> The dyno showed NO HP Improvement.
Only on a Leak Down Test did it show any
> advantage for blow
bye.
Do they say that they will get horsepowers just with the rings ? I'd
not count
on this but if I need new rings or even forged pistons I'd install
them to make
sure I have good rings that can withstand the increased pressure
and stress. The
power then comes from the more boost I can run with them :)
I'm sure there are
others that are as good as the TS but some of my Camaro
buddies used them and I
only heard good stories (piston broke, rings where
ok).
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 23 16:12:27 1999
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From: "Chris
Chiasson" <cender@email.msn.com>
To: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<004001bf35c7$261f1b00$140100b6@monster>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front
fascia repainting?
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 18:07:15 -0600
Organization:
Louisiana State University
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There is a shop in Baton Rogue, Louisiana called
Haney ... they have two
divisions (and two locations) one is the body shop
and the other is tire and
car care...
I don't know
about the tire/car care place, but the body shop was very
competent job of
getting rid of a dent in my liftgate and some scratches on
my rear bumper.
They first sucked the dent out as best they could, then
filled and sanded it
with (sounded like) "bond-o". They also filled and
sanded the
scratches in the plastic. After they did that, they somehow color
matched the
triple color pearl white paint and used that to paint the sanded
parts. In
case there were minor imperfections in the match, they also
blended the paint
gradually out towards the rest of the body (I guess). This
was very expensive
(~$800), but the car looks like a million bucks again.
Chris
Chiasson
1991 RT/TT
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gil
Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 9:26
AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front fascia repainting?
>
>
That's interesting... I had my '95 3KGT base touched up a few months
ago.
> My
> body man told me he never wanted to EVER do that
again... <smile!> But it
> came
> out perfect. You
can't tell where the new paint starts and the old
begins.
> He had
the
> car for over a week and he only charged me $125.00.
Outrageous, huh? I
> think he
> only charged me that because
I've brought a lot of people in there,
> everybody in my
> family
uses him and he put me out for over a week. I think he planned on
>
charging
> me $400. I had all the dings, rock bruises and scratches
taken off the
> front fascia,
> a scratch taken out of one side
skirt and a door totally repainted....
> -G
>
>
>
>Well I can answer a few of your questions. I just got my '93 Pearl
R/T
> >repainted, and I searched and searched, but I got this answer
from Mitsu
> >dealers, Dodge dealers and paint shops. They don't make
that shade of
pearl
> >paint anymore (very unfortunately) I had to
get my whole car repainted
> >(2,500) with a Dupont equivalent (which
is unfortunately more white, but
> >still with a pearl tinge) Yes it is
possible to blend a pearl paint job,
> but
> >it is very hard to
do, you must have a VERY good paint man with alot of
> >experience! But
like I said, they don't make that shade anymore. Looks
like
> a
>
>completely new paint job for any of us pearl 3000/Stealth owners if
we
> aren't
> >satisfied w/ the minor scratches, dings and dents.
Oh well. Good luck!
> (P.S.
> >yes they can fix the minor dings
in plastic, by filling them and
smoothing
> >them with plastic
putty, but they cannot remove them.)I got mine done and
> it
>
>looks beautiful. Check it out at....
>
>http://members.aol.com/xxfiretamerxx/index.html
>
>
Hope I helped a little!
> >
>
>
ED
>
>
XxFiretamerxX@aol.com
>
>
'93 Stealth R/T
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Nov 23 19:57:29 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SplitSecond
ARC2-GP GroupPurchase
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 22:43:07 -0800
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bulk
I just sent Matt an e-mail so I guess I am signed up
also.
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Nov 23 20:24:44 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: a little testy
are we?
Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 23:10:40 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: 'Sam Shelat'
<sshelat@erols.com>
Cc: Bob Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>; Chris
Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>; Darcy Gunnlaugson
<wce@bc.sympatico.ca>; Jim
Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>; Mikael Akesson
<vr4@bahnhof.se>;
Rich LeRoy <rleroy@pacifier.com>; Roger Gerl
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Date: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 8:44
AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: plugs then boost
controller?
>Sam...
>
>Please, in the future, make
responses like this privately to the sender. I
>don't remember seeing
Olegs' original post on the list, but it appears that
>his question to you
was imbedded in a post about modifications. If it
>wasn't, he also should
have sent a specific question to a specific person
>(you) privately, not
to the list. There are over 500 of us now, and we
don't
>have the time
(or desire) to follow your private, non-technical
>conversation.
Thanks.
>
I never know if its a Team 3s post or not-and about
non-technical stuff on
the list,
I think things like paint jobs and body
work are pretty non-technical and
some
people are not interested
either. In addition, the tons of posts about
active aero
from people
not qualified to answer any of those questions. However, if
people on
this list buy from a
certain company or individual, and have problems. I
think it IS important
that
people on the list be made aware- such as
when people have problems
with a certain clutch from a certain group purchase
that was referenced for
days.
In fact nothing came out of it, and it was a
lot of waste IMHO, but I made
no comment
because it may have helped
someone out in making a buying decision. In
fact, my dealer
tells me
the best clutch is stock and most people with aftermarket suffer
from tranny
problems
later. I appreciate your concern with these non-technical
discussions and
apologize for accidentally
posting back to team 3s.
Maybe, however, the rest of you will be more wary
when dealing with
those
people and maybe my posting will help someone and that was the point of
my
reply.
Sam 95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 00:16:33 -0800
Subject: Team3S: boost
control
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Precedence: bulk
so what the
story with the boost control, manual vs. electronic.
for manual, i've
heard everything from the $2 bleeder valve to the $50
redline boost
controller and $100 extreme performance boost control. adding
a $50
boost gauge puts you out between $52 and $150, plus installation
should be
very easy.
for electronic, the apex SAVC-R sounds like the best, beating
out HKS, Blitz
and Profec by incredible amount of tuning ability and the
ultra cool
display. but at ~$450 and up, how much better is it really
than the manual
controller? installation must be infinitely more
complex as well, but is it
all worth it? also where are most people
mounting their SAVC-R? the SAVC-R
unlike the other EBCs has the boost
gauge built in right?
plus are a blow off valve and turbo timer really
recommended with either
boost control methods, or can most of us live with
out it?
i'm leaning towards the manual if it can give me balanced, safe
and
consistent increased boost (15psi sounds like the limit if you
have
everything else stock). i have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK, stock
engine,
exhaust, spark plug setup, etc.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
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References:
<01bd01bf3655$52446f80$6110e9d1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost
control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:08:42 +0100
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> for
electronic, the apex SAVC-R sounds like the best, beating out HKS, Blitz
>
and Profec by incredible amount of tuning ability and the ultra cool
>
display. but at ~$450 and up, how much better is it really than the
manual
> controller?
Yes, because you have an active element in the
loop that is able to adjust the way the WGs are controlled.
>
installation must be infinitely more complex as well, but is it all worth
it?
It is even less complicated as some manual BC do need to have some
hoses to routed to the valve and to be able to control it it is mounted inside
the car. On the AVC the main difference is additional cabeling. It is the onyl
one that needs so much. The Blitz has only power conenction but a small hose
must run into the cabine as it senses boost in the control
unit.
> also where are most people mounting their SAVC-R?
the SAVC-R
> unlike the other EBCs has the boost gauge built in
right?
Not unlike other EBCs ! Almost every EBC has a boost gauge because
they have to sense boost to be able to control it. Otherwise the loop will be
out of control. With the AVC the mounting position isn't that easy and also I
have seen nicer boost gauges than the display.
> plus are a blow off
valve and turbo timer really recommended with either
> boost control
methods, or can most of us live with out it?
The stock bypass valve is
often getting weaker over the years and starts leaking. Also some of us are
experiencing the koncking goose with a larger filter and I therefore recommend
an aftermarket or at least a 1st gen BOV. Turbo timer is up to you. On my car
the Blitz Dual timer works really good as it senses boost and vacuum and
calculates the cool down phase on the fly. During driving you can see how it in-
and decreases the time. But I only need it for about 10% of the switch offs.
This because there is some easy driving till to my door necessary and this also
cools the car down. During testing and datalogging I have seen the timer go up
to 58 seconds afterwards !
> i'm leaning towards the manual if it can
give me balanced, safe and
> consistent increased boost (15psi sounds like
the limit if you have
> everything else stock). i have a 92 3KGT/TT
w/K&N FIPK, stock engine,
> exhaust, spark plug setup,
etc.
It's the cheap mode and works good. But You also have to get an
aftermarket boost gauge and installation of the hose is as necessary as for an
EBC ! ÎMHO, spending a lot of money for a great car and then trying to
save each $$ afterwards is not the right way. If you want to have reliable
power, then you have to pay for it.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 06:43:49 1999
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From:
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: New flow bench
numbers
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 08:43:18 -0600
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Precedence: bulk
I'm curious, the
new numbers you quoted, at what lift were those readings
for? Also,
does anyone know what the lift is on the stock cams?
John Basol
'95
RT/TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Aso8@aol.com
[SMTP:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 23, 1999 12:25 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: New flow
bench numbers
I just got my new flow bench numbers
Intake side
283.5 Exhaust side 236
The stock flows are below to
compare :)
Arty 91 VR-4
Valve
Intake Exhaust
lift
0.100"
86 80
0.200"
165 164
0.300"
230 191
0.400"
246 195
0.500"
249 196
0.600"
251 196
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'gil_lee@usa.net'" <gil_lee@usa.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: boost control
Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 06:51:10 -0800
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Precedence: bulk
for
electronic, the apex SAVC-R sounds like the best, beating out HKS, Blitz
and
Profec by incredible amount of tuning ability and the ultra
cool
display. but at ~$450 and up, how much better is it really than
the manual
controller? installation must be infinitely more complex as
well, but is it
all worth it? also where are most people mounting their
SAVC-R? the SAVC-R
unlike the other EBCs has the boost gauge built in
right?
---
Manual: Cheap, easy to install. Slow reaction,
difficult to impossible to
'fix' boost at a light to show some kid up.
Also wont compensate for weather,
temperature..etc. "Max"
boost levels wont be the same from day to day/week
to
week.
Electonic: Expensive, NOT that hard to install. No
other controller can build
boost quicker other than removing WG hose
completely, tunable instantly, some
are programmable to act in various ways,
some with boost/vac guage.
plus are a blow off valve and turbo timer
really recommended with either
boost control methods, or can most of us live
with out it?
---
BOV: Required once you start to up boost on
some models.
TT: Required on _any_ car with a turbo, its the best $100
insurance policy you
can buy to protect your turbo(s).
i'm leaning
towards the manual if it can give me balanced, safe and
consistent increased
boost (15psi sounds like the limit if you have
everything else stock).
i have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK, stock engine,
exhaust, spark plug setup,
etc.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 08:33:35 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: <gil_lee@usa.net>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost
control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 08:31:41 -0800
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Hi Gil
I assume it's Gil from your handle but it
would help if you signed your
postings.
>so what 's the story with
the boost control, manual vs. electronic.
Rhetorical
question.
>
>for manual, i've heard everything from the $2 bleeder
valve to the $50
>redline boost controller and $100 extreme performance
boost control.
adding
>a $50 boost gauge puts you out between $52 and
$150, plus installation
>should be very easy.
Easy is a relative
word with these cars, but I assume that since you use it,
you are well versed
with the setup and therefore should not have a problem
with the instalation.
If you encounter difficulties, just ask, as we have a
wealth of friendly
people who have helped each other instal BC's from
opposite ends of the
country/world.
>for electronic, the apex SAVC-R sounds like the best,
beating out HKS,
Blitz
>and Profec by incredible amount of tuning
ability and the ultra cool
>display. but at ~$450 and up, how much
better is it really than the manual
>controller? installation must
be infinitely more complex as well, but is
it
>all worth it? also
where are most people mounting their SAVC-R? the
SAVC-R
>unlike
the other EBCs has the boost gauge built in right?
As has been posted,
some members have purchased for $400 or just under this
figure. So shop
around or contact those who got good deals and posted on
them. It (SAVC-R)
has a digital Boost Gauge Feature built in. Mine is
mounted in the armrest
for Stealthiness. Others have them on the dash, in
vents,
etc.
>plus are a blow off valve and turbo timer really recommended
with either
>boost control methods, or can most of us live with out
it?
Always allow for cool down before shutting down your car (pop the
hood when
possible) and unless the BOV is acting up, you should need neither.
A minute
or less cooldown is advantageous to keep oil from baking in
intercooler
lines, etc. Those who do not allow for cool down and who do not
do frequent
oil changes on TT's, suffer engine/bearing wear, and particularly
complain
of the ticking noise--solved most often with a reputable oil flush
product.
>
>i'm leaning towards the manual if it can give me
balanced, safe and
>consistent increased boost (15psi sounds like the
limit if you have
>everything else stock).
Lean away but remember
the balance, safeness and consistancy will depend on
your eye, your ear, and
your skill at tuning.
i have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK, stock
engine,
>exhaust, spark plug setup, etc.
You'll have to regap
regardless of which one you choose. And like others who
own this great car,
I'd recommend an EBC. If you want to go real cheap you
can buy an aquarium
valve for a buck and really save money, but as I noted
in a past post,
cheap fixes or cheap mods, are ones that will likely be the
most expensive.
Putting things into perspective---ask yourself how much you
spend on gas to
drive your car in a one month period, and then ask yourself
if you put in
Regular gas to save money. The amount you spend on gas in that
period, and
the answer to the last portion of the question should determine
what amount
you will spend on the BC ;-)
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 08:44:28 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: boost control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:44:19 -0600
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>
Manual: Cheap, easy to install. Slow reaction, difficult to
>
impossible to 'fix' boost at a light to show some kid up.
> Also wont
compensate for weather, temperature..etc. "Max"
> boost
levels wont be the same from day to day/week to
> week.
I really
have to disagree that you get slow reaction. With the
Hallman-style
manual controller, boost response is at least
as good as with an electronic
controller, and control is
similarly good. I never had to adjust my
Hallman controller
even with the weather changing from -30 F to +95 F.
I set
it and forgot about it, the boost gauge always displayed a
rock
solid boost level.
> BOV: Required once you start to up boost on
some models.
> TT: Required on _any_ car with a turbo, its the best $100
> insurance policy you can buy to protect your turbo(s).
Turbo
Timer isn't required, but a good idea if you come
flying into your driveway
and shut down the car right away.
If you drive "normal" for the
last 1/4 mile or so, you'll
be fine. The turbos are liquid and oil
cooled, so unless
you beat on the car right before you shut it down,
you
don't have much to worry about. It depends on your
driving
habits more than anything else.
> i'm leaning towards the
manual if it can give me balanced, safe and
> consistent increased boost
(15psi sounds like the limit if you have
> everything else stock). i
have a 92 3KGT/TT w/K&N FIPK, stock engine,
> exhaust, spark plug
setup, etc.
Don't let these guys scare you away from a manual
controller
if you don't need to be changing your boost level often.
You do
need a good boost gauge (and should have one in a very
visible location
anyway), but a well designed ball and spring
type manual controller is just
as good as an electronic
controller for a lot less money.
People that
spent the big money for an electronic controller
tend to recommend
them. I currently have an electronic
controller because it came with
the car, but if I was in the
market to buy something on my own, I would get
the
Hallman controller
again.
http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com
Everyone is going to
have their own opinion, but you need to
figure out what your personal needs
are - as that will have
the most bearing on which way you should go.
Just don't do a
little aquarium valve or something like that, as those
do
require a lot of adjustment and the control and spoolup are
not as
good.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 09:05:05 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To:
"Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: boost
control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 12:04:09 -0500
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I am going to add my 2 cents to this discussion since I have
been
researching building my own boost controller. Manual boost
controllers like
the Hallman and Redline are nothing like the bleeder valve
mod or a EBC.
They do not allow ANY pressure to go to the waste gate before
the set boost
is reached. They do this by a spring and ball type
valve. Two things are
good about this system.
1. Boost builds
up in the quickest time possible since the waste gate could
never creep open
prematurely. I am not saying that EBC's allow the waste
gates to open
prematurely, but I suspect they do if they can not bleed air
off quickly
enough.
2. They are not affected by weather as others have said.
Weather does not
affect the spring in the valve so the thing will open at the
same set
pressure all the time.
I have talked with a couple of manual
boost controller users and they have
no changes with weather, and little or
no overshoot. One thing I do not
like about the manual boost controller
is that there must be a hole drilled
between the valve and the WG to allow
pressure to bleed off when the valve
closes. If you do not bleed off
this residual pressure the WG will remain
open even after boost has
dropped. I wonder if the bleed hole (1/16" on the
Hallman) hurt
performance of the WG?
Now my plans for a manual boost controller include a
unit to adjust set
pressure and integral gauge which can be mounted in the
interior of the car.
The residual pressure mentioned above would be bled off
with a solenoid
which should be faster than a 1/16" hole. Also
Roger will be interested
that it will also be able to log data via a 0-5V
signal. Now if I could
only find an affordable graph printer to attach
to the unit. The unit has a
peak hold function also. I should be
getting everything I need by the end
of Dec. and will report back on how it
goes.
Later,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
Free
automotive classifieds and more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com
----------NEW
(under construction)----------
If you love cars you have to visit MOTORHEAD
CAFE
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 09:14:18 1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Getrag Trans UPGRADE research
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AWD Getrag
Sufferers:
I've discussed our synchro and repair problem (can't
get
parts at all anymore) with a trans repair shop named
Metric
Mechanic. They ALREADY do upgrades to Getrags
on BMW's which work well,
and are respected in the industry.
Since my synchro/parts supply dried up
because Getrag sold the
rebuild business to CRS, and CRS got ALL the repair
parts in
Getrag USA inventory, and CRS will NOT sell parts to anybody
nor
sell the transaxles to anybody but Mitsubishi or Dodge, we
are totally
screwed...until now.
I sent Jim Rowe, owner of Met. Mech., a new set of
synchros
for a 5-speed (same as 6 speed's essentially) and he
analyzed
them. He is sure he can fix/markedly improve the 3-4,
5-R/5-6
synchro mechanism so it works FAR longer/better than stock,
just
as they do with the BMW Getrags.
The 1-2 synchro is different in
construction, and he needs a
transmission to analyze it
fully.
--->DOES ANYBODY HAVE A 5 or a 6-Speed TRANS that
grinds but
is otherwise good, that they do not NEED for
about 3 months (car stored for
winter?) so over winter Metric Mechanic
can tear
down, analyze, FIX, see
if/what can be done for the 1-2
synchro as well? They would send it
back to be installed in
a car to see how well it works. It will cost
about the cost
of a rebuild, they are not going to do any rebuilds for
free
(of course! The first time around, they will be taking
notes,
making a "repair manual" with how-to for FUTURE use
so
they can start PRODUCTION of our UPGRADED Getrag
5 and 6 speed
transmissions for EVER AFTER!
They indicate that the synchronizers work
much more efficiently,
they LAST way longer because the 24 machining steps
(at least on
BMW's) they do force the synchros to work more positively and
so
they keep synchronizing far longer than stockers have given up due
to a
little wear.
I will be changing my 93 to a 6 speed once 5 speed goes, so
can't use
mine
yet; if I have to, I am going to buy a 6-speed to send but
if somebody
actually needs one that is best because it will get used right
away.
In that vein, rather than us spending $ on a LAWSUIT to get
JUNKY
STOCK parts released, I'd like anybody willing to donate $25,
$50,
$100 or whatever to the "Cause", buying a worn/grinding trans
to
send to Metric Mechanic to get this BALL ROLLING.
Those who were
trusting and patient enough to send me the money for
synchros recently that
Getrag refused to deliver, can send me letter
whether they want to
"reduce their refund" I am going to send] by a
little to try to do
something
good AS A GROUP --the 3S Community -- to get a GREAT thing
done
for us all.
Please don't send or let me keep any money you need,
this is purely
a disposable income thing and I am MORE than happy to send
all
money back plus the $2.00 interest as I said before, but I wanted
to
present an ANSWER, not just send money back with no bright prospect
on
the horizon.
Reply To Me if you have trans to fix AND understand the
somewhat
experimental nature of this first job (I do) which means might
work
perfectly, might need removal and re-doing if not perfect--but
this
shop knows their Getrags, and I trust them.
Thanks to
all!
Sincerely,
Jack Tertadian
Getrag Fix Warrior
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 09:53:10 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 09:46:38 -0800
Subject: Team3S: ram air
induction
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Precedence: bulk
has anyone
devised any kind of ram air, cold induction intake system for
the
3KGT/TT?
the notion of free HP by just cooling the air is so
tempting!
1% hp gain for every -11 degrees F, so if you have 300 HP and you
lower the
temp by 88 degrees, you get 8% gain or 24hp. i know it must
be much harder
than it sounds, but i was wondering if anyone is selling any
kits for this.
i've seen some interesting experiments
here:
http://people.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/intake.html
i have
the a 92 w/K&N FIPK, so without cutting a vent into the hood or
popping
the hood (is that safe to drive like that even for just a 1/4 drag
race?), i
was wondering if the huge headlights could be replaced with a
smaller
projection lamp system. i've seen people do cool things with
the
headlights, like somehow leave them half open with some sort of
custom
headlights. kinda like the right hand car on the 2nd row
here:
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/supraman4/gtobody_kits.htm
i think
most of the radical body mods are made on the japanese cars, i
haven't seen
any crazy mods on the 3KGT's in the US like they do on the
supra, rx7,
etc.
there should be enough room for a small light and then some kind of
ram air
next to it.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 09:56:17 1999
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Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 09:56:10 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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To:
gil_lee@usa.net
CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
boost control
References:
<01bd01bf3655$52446f80$6110e9d1@pacbell.net>
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Precedence: bulk
> so what
the story with the boost control, manual vs. electronic.
You've already
heard that there is a difference between a bleeder valve and a
manaul
controller.
Bleeder: slow to react, boost will peak for one second than
fall, elevation and
atmospheric changes will effect peak boost setting.
3rd gear accellerations are
really lackluster since boost peaks quickly than
falls.
Manual: fast to react, not effected by elevation and
atmospheric changes. I am
curious as to the behavior at the set
point. When the spring & ball check valve
begins the opening and
closing cycling to maintain the set boost level, is there
noticible
oscillation of boost and if so what is the peak-to-peak oscillation?
This hasn't been disscussed as of yet, perhaps because the oscillation
is
negligible.
> for manual, i've heard everything from the $2
bleeder valve to the $50
> redline boost controller and $100 extreme
performance boost control. adding
> a $50 boost gauge puts you out
between $52 and $150, plus installation
> should be very easy.
Like
others have said, you get what you pay for. $52 is the cheapest
entry
point but you live with the bleeder problems above. The entry
point for safe
boost control is really $59 for the Redline manual, and about
$130 for the
excellent SPI guage & A-pillar gauge mount, or $199.
$229 if you choose the
Hallman controller. This provides good, basic
performance. The good
electronic controllers range from $400-$500
street price. Their additional
costs give you additional features such
as cockpit adjustable boost, boost
scramble, display modes, multiple boost
settings (saved in memory), etc (see my
previous posts on the new
Apexi). Since most electronic controllers display
boost pressure, you
could choose to forego an aftermarket guage.
I ran a $2 bleeder for a few
months, then the cockpit bleeder (see
http://www.3si.org/bleeder-valve.html)
for 18 months with an SPI guage. I now
have the new Apexi and it is
superb. I definitley recommend saving your money
and going directly to
an electronic controller.
Good luck,
Ken
--
I'm surprised
you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 10:15:38 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell"
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <gil_lee@usa.net>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ram air
induction
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 13:14:31 -0500
Message-ID:
<000001bf36a7$c1f720a0$309910cf@kevin>
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Normal
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
The temp of the intake charge at the air box or K&N FIPK is only
10 deg. F
above ambient (my experimental numbers) so all you would gain is 3
HP. Not
worth the trouble in my book. Roger and a few others have
pointed out that
the smaller turbos heat up the air ALOT when pushed out of
their island.
(range of efficiency)Better intercoolers or more efficient
turbos seem like
the answer.
Later,
Kevin Schappell
Auto
Answers
Free automotive classifieds and
more.
http://www.pacarsearch.com
----------NEW (under
construction)----------
If you love cars you have to visit MOTORHEAD
CAFE
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
>
gil_lee@usa.net
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 1999 12:47 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: ram air
induction
>
>
> has anyone devised any kind of ram air, cold
induction intake
> system for the
> 3KGT/TT?
>
> the
notion of free HP by just cooling the air is so tempting!
> 1% hp gain for
every -11 degrees F, so if you have 300 HP and
> you lower the
>
temp by 88 degrees, you get 8% gain or 24hp. i know it must
> be
much harder
> than it sounds, but i was wondering if anyone is selling
any
> kits for this.
>
> i've seen some interesting
experiments here:
>
http://people.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/intake.html
>
> i have
the a 92 w/K&N FIPK, so without cutting a vent into the hood or
>
popping the hood (is that safe to drive like that even for
> just a 1/4
drag
> race?), i was wondering if the huge headlights could be
>
replaced with a
> smaller projection lamp system. i've seen people
do cool
> things with the
> headlights, like somehow leave them half
open with some sort of custom
> headlights. kinda like the right
hand car on the 2nd row here:
>
http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/supraman4/gtobody_kits.htm
>
> i think
most of the radical body mods are made on the japanese cars, i
> haven't
seen any crazy mods on the 3KGT's in the US like they
> do on the
>
supra, rx7, etc.
>
> there should be enough room for a small light
and then some
> kind of ram air
> next to it.
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 10:16:58 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 09:54:59 -0800
Subject: Team3S: squeak,
rattle and roll
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Message-id:
<005001bf36a6$a0eb27e0$6110e9d1@pacbell.net>
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Precedence: bulk
i know it's
normal for a car to start making "noises" after been ridden
for
awhile, but the problem seems a bit extreme at least for my 92
3KGT.
i was wondering if anyone has been able to combat the rather
excessive
squeaking and rattling that has been emanating from the back area,
i think
it has to do with the plastic trim on the roof area at the back, but
it
might also be the rear suspension parts or the active spoiler? i'm
pretty
sure by the loudness of the noise that it must be from inside the
vehicle.
please note that i also have a custom sub box with 2 x 10"
PPI ProClass flat
piston woofers driven by a PPI A600 in mono. on the
one hand, it might be
the bass that might be shaking the car apart, but then
again, it's also the
only way i can drown out the annoying sounds from the
back...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 10:38:54 1999
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From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
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Date:
Wed, 24 Nov 1999 13:38:11 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: squeak, rattle and
roll
To: gil_lee@usa.net, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Dude, there is a
TSB on the clips for the plastic hatchback cover. The clips
cost about
$5 if I recall. That should fix your problem.
Joe 91TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 10:43:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov
1999 13:42:56 EST
Subject: Team3S: Front End Protectors
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First, sorry if
this is a little off topic. A few weeks ago a member from
Canada asked
about buying a bra for his stealth. I referred him to advance
auto. The problem was, however, that Advance Auto doesn't sell in
Canada.
Yesterday I received the new JC Whitney catalog and they
have all bras for
all years of stealths. They cost $52 plus shipping
and tax. You can buy it
directly from them at their website,
www.jcwhitney.com.
Have a great holiday everyone, and DRIVE
SAFELY!
Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 11:00:46 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To:
"'gil_lee@usa.net'" <gil_lee@usa.net>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: ram air
induction
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:54:12 -0800
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i have the a 92
w/K&N FIPK, so without cutting a vent into the hood or
popping the hood
(is that safe to drive like that even for just a 1/4
drag
race?)
---
No, this is illegal on the track.
I remove
the pass. side headlight (easy), then crank out all the relevent hood
stops
at that corner.
This raises the hood in that corner about 1/2" for
more "ram" air flow into that
area.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 11:03:42 1999
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From: gil_lee@usa.net
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Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 10:56:40 -0800
Subject: Re: Team3S: squeak,
rattle and roll
To: TrboDrvr@aol.com,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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bulk
yeah, i put those in awhile back to keep the cover from flying off
ever time
you pull on it.
but the noise is still there, i know because i
removed everything from the
back area, the subbox, cargo cover, everything
not bolted down, and the
sweet squeaky music plays on...
i'm going to
have my stereo guys lock down the panels in the back and see
what happens,
just wanted to know if anyone else had this problem...
-----
Original Message -----
From: <TrboDrvr@aol.com>
To:
<gil_lee@usa.net>; <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent:
Wednesday, November 24, 1999 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: squeak, rattle and
roll
> Dude, there is a TSB on the clips for the plastic hatchback
cover. The
clips
> cost about $5 if I recall. That should
fix your problem.
>
> Joe 91TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 11:14:19 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: ram air
induction
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 11:12:31 -0800
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-----Original Message-----From: gil_lee@usa.net
<gil_lee@usa.net>
>has anyone devised any kind of ram air, cold
induction intake
system for the
>3KGT/TT?
>the notion of free HP
by just cooling the air is so tempting!
>1% hp gain for every -11 degrees
F, so if you have 300 HP and you
lower the
>temp by 88 degrees, you get
8% gain or 24hp. i know it must be
much harder
>than it sounds,
but i was wondering if anyone is selling any kits
for this.
>i've seen
some interesting experiments
here:
>http://people.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/intake.html
The
concept is sound, but it's just so difficult fitting any kind of
ductwork in
our cars. I rigged up a ram air system for a while
(using flexible
4" heating ducts) but it didn't appear to have much
effect and it was
butt ugly so I took it off. I'll try again at
some point using similar
ideas from Jim's page (above), but even
then, I doubt more than a 1%-2% gain
is even possible. But every
little bit helps...
>i have
the a 92 w/K&N FIPK, so without cutting a vent into the
hood
or
>popping the hood (is that safe to drive like that even for
just a
1/4 drag
>race?), i was wondering if the huge headlights could
be replaced
with a
>smaller projection lamp system. i've seen
people do cool things
with the
>headlights, like somehow leave them
half open with some sort of
custom
>headlights. kinda like the
right hand car on the 2nd row
here:
>http://members.xoom.com/_XMCM/supraman4/gtobody_kits.htm
>i
think most of the radical body mods are made on the japanese
cars,
i
>haven't seen any crazy mods on the 3KGT's in the US like they do
on
the
>supra, rx7, etc.
I'd secure a tether inside the hood if
you're going to try leaving
it popped during a race... You'll get more
cool air in the engine
bay, but if that sucker rips off at 120 MPH, you'll
lose the
windshield or worse. I'd also consider that the gains in HP
will be
more than offset by the increased drag.
As to body
modifications, If I had Supra or RX-7, I'd want to modify
it's looks too,
since the designs are ugly and boring. Radical body
mods work best on
ugly cars. But our cars are works of art as they
are, IMO, and I
wouldn't do a "Veilside" to it any more than I'd do
it to a
Ferrari... To each his own, I guess. But if you have to
cut
things up to put in a breather system, I'd definitely go in the
direction of
the '2nd down on the right' choice you point to in your
link. If you
must... :-)
I don't know if you remember the quote about the
Stealth TT from
Motor Trend in 1991 (also used in a Stealth Ad): "Think
of it as an
affordable Ferrari 348". If you recall, Chrysler
brought in
designers from Ferrari's Pinin Farina and Porsche to assist
in
designing the body. I kind of like what they
did...
Best,
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 11:54:13 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: boost control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 13:54:09 -0600
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>
Manual: fast to react, not effected by elevation and
> atmospheric
changes. I am curious as to the behavior at
> the set point.
When the spring & ball check valve
> begins the opening and closing
cycling to maintain the set
> boost level, is there noticible oscillation
of boost and if
> so what is the peak-to-peak oscillation? This
hasn't been
> disscussed as of yet, perhaps because the oscillation
is
> negligible.
I wasn't able to see any oscillation on my Hallman
type on
either an Autometer or VDO gauge, so I think if there's any
effect
like that it is negligible. My HKS EVC IV does
wander some, but I think
that is due to the duty cycle
settings I'm using to control other
"issues" the controller
is having, which I've not been able to
correct yet.
-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 11:54:27 1999
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From: "Ryan Floyd"
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To:
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Subject: Team3S: Pulling the
turbo's
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I have a quick question, if I wanted to polish my turbo's or send
them off some where for an upgrade... what would need to be done to still
drive my car?? As I understand it I should be able to use either exhaust
wrap/ alum tape, to fill the void in both the exhaust and the intake, and then
use some brake line and fittings to make sure I don't spew oil... but what are
the safety issues on the motor and or other parts.... Is it just like
having turbo's but never hitting boost? power would be way down but would
I truly hurt anything??? I just don't feel like sitting at home for a week
while I deal with learning a turbo, and possibly upgrading to 13G wheels or
polishing it... is there an answer??
Ryan
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 12:10:54 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Pulling the turbo's
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 14:10:47
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> I have a
quick question, if I wanted to polish my turbo's or
> send them off some
where for an upgrade... what would need
> to be done to still drive
my car?? As I understand it I
> should be able to use either
exhaust wrap/ alum tape, to fill
> the void in both the exhaust and the
intake, and then use
> some brake line and fittings to make sure I don't
spew oil...
> but what are the safety issues on the motor and or other
> parts.... Is it just like having turbo's but never hitting
> boost? power would be way down but would I truly hurt
>
anything??? I just don't feel like sitting at home for a
> week
while I deal with learning a turbo, and possibly
> upgrading to 13G
wheels or polishing it... is there an answer??
Hmmm...
Exhaust wrap or aluminum tape wouldn't be nearly good enough to connect the
exhaust manifolds to the downpipe. The temperatures can reach 1600F in
that region. There's also not a pipe coming out of the manifold that you
can easily connect to (like putting a pipe there and clamping something to hold
the gasses in at the joint). The easiest way to do it (if you absolutely
had to) would be to get the exhaust header/manifold setup from a non-turbo and
bolt it on. You'd also have to plug the oil and coolant feed/return lines
as well.
Overall, this doesn't sound like a great idea... Why put
your expensive car at risk? You'd be better off just driving a rental for
the few days. Besides, once you go through all the work of pulling the
turbos, you probably won't want to reassemble/disassemble everything an
additional time just to make it drivable for a few days.
-Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 12:55:32 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
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References:
<s83bede2.009@dvn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pulling the
turbo's
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 21:42:50 +0100
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Wow, this hasn't tried anyone yet ! I can't see any chance but
making a big
adapter in between the O2 sensor housing and the exhaust
manifold. This will
be much, much more expensive than renting a ... Neon or
something like that.
I'd say .... forget it !
Sorry.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> oil... but what are the safety
issues on the motor and or other parts....
Is it just like
> having
turbo's but never hitting boost? power would be way down but would
I
truly hurt
>anything??? I just don't feel like sitting at home for a
week while I deal
with learning a
>turbo, and possibly upgrading to 13G
wheels or polishing it... is there an
answer??
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 12:55:34 1999
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<004901bf36a4$e12814a0$6110e9d1@pacbell.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ram
air induction
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 21:53:31 +0100
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Back to the old discussion, hehe.
> 1% hp gain for every
-11 degrees F, so if you have 300 HP and you lower
the
> temp by 88
degrees, you get 8% gain or 24hp. i know it must be much
harder
>
than it sounds, but i was wondering if anyone is selling any kits
for
this.
Example : Outside is 30°F, intake temp maybe 100°F.
So, how do you lower the
intake temp ? Cooling with air, water and whatever.
BUT, you should also
know that the combustion can be "undercooled"
what finally again eats up
power.
I'd be happy with a fresh air intake
just to lower the intake temp a little
and to help the turbos with a little
cooler air. >Till today, there is no
solution without a scoop on the
hood.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 12:56:18 1999
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To:
xwing@execpc.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag
Trans UPGRADE research
In-reply-to: Your message of "Wed, 24 Nov 1999
11:10:10
CST."
<383C1BF1.85D91195@execpc.com>
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 13:48:24
-0700
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
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--------
+> AWD Getrag
Sufferers:
<snip>
+> --->DOES ANYBODY HAVE A 5 or a
6-Speed TRANS that
+> grinds but is otherwise good, that they do not NEED
for
+> about 3 months (car stored for winter?) so over winter Metric
Mechanic
+> can tear
+> down, analyze, FIX, see if/what can be done
for the 1-2
+> synchro as well? They would send it back to be
installed in
<snip>
I'm sure this has been thought of, and might
not be possible anyway, but..
when I had my 91 VR4 with bad 3rd syncro, I
had my mechanic looking around
for possible solutions for me.. at the
time the local dealer had 2 6-speed
trannies waiting to be sent back as
"cores" even though the only problem
was they were leaking..
I hadn't seen the info about how to do a conversion
from 5 to 6 speed then
and they didn't know how to do it, so I didn't
persue it any more.. the
punchline is that it seemed I could have bought
one of the trannies for the
price of the core charge.. about $1000 if I
remember right.. it
might have been possible only because my mechanic
was friends with a tech at
the dealer.. dunno..
anyway, food for
thought..
Dave
95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI
G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 14:44:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:49:04
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To: stealth
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Radiator fan not
working..............
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The fans operate
differently for different years. I know I have a '91
where the fan doesn't
run at low speed, and a '94 where the radiator fan
doesn't run due to
temp.
On the '91 there are 2 sensors on the radiator. 1 controls the
radiator
fan at low speed. the other controls the radiator fan at high
speed.
When the AC is switched on the radiator fan comes on at low speed,
and
the condenser fan also comes on.
In '94 they made things a lot
more complicated. The sensors on the
radiator are gone. There is a sensor in
the block which sends a signal
to the cpu. The cpu then decides fan
should be on, and what speed. The
AC also activates the fans.
The
fans aren't really wired in series or parallel.
For a '91, the radiator fan
has a single hot lead. The high speed relay
provides ground, and the low
speed relay provides a ground with a
resistor in line. The high speed relay
also provides ground to the
condenser fan relay. The AC trips the cond fan
relay, and the low speed
fan relay.
low temp sensor = rad fan at low speed
(no AC)
high temp sensor = rad fan high, cond fan on (regardless of AC)
AC
on = rad fan low, cond fan on
Like I said above, the '94 on got a lot
more complicated. It appears the
condenser fan now has 2 speeds, and doesn't
automatically trip the rad
fan. It's also wired into a few other circuits,
plus who knows what else
in the CPU.
To figure out what is wrong you
have to know when it is and isn't
running, and what speed it's running at.
Sometimes I miss my old Merc. When the motor was on the fan was on,
very
simple. Then I get in and fly around a corner doing some insane
speed
and I don't really miss any other cars anymore. :)
> >
They are wired in series, not parallel. One comes on at first
> > then,
if the coolant temperature continues to rise, the other
> > turns
on. I've watched it happen, but never looked it up in
> > the
manual to see what the switch temperature settings are.
>
> The
second one is also wired into the same circuit that controls the air
conditioning compressor, so when the AC is on, the fan should come on
also.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 14:47:20 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Kevin Schappell"
<kevin@pacarsearch.com>,
"Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost
control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 17:32:28 -0800
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How does a Hallman prevent boost spikes? The EBC all
have
their own unique way of creating stable boost. Why would
they need
feedback and duty cycles if a certain opening of the valve
was all that was
neccesary to obtain a stable boost reading?
Sam
-----Original
Message-----
From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To:
Stealth-3000gt (E-mail) <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, November 24, 1999 9:06 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: boost
control
>I am going to add my 2 cents to this discussion since I
have been
>researching building my own boost controller. Manual
boost controllers
like
>the Hallman and Redline are nothing like the
bleeder valve mod or a EBC.
>They do not allow ANY pressure to go to the
waste gate before the set boost
>is reached. They do this by a
spring and ball type valve. Two things are
>good about this
system.
>1. Boost builds up in the quickest time possible since the
waste gate
could
>never creep open prematurely. I am not saying
that EBC's allow the waste
>gates to open prematurely, but I suspect they
do if they can not bleed air
>off quickly enough.
>2. They are
not affected by weather as others have said. Weather does
not
>affect the spring in the valve so the thing will open at the same
set
>pressure all the time.
> I have talked with a couple of manual
boost controller users and they have
>no changes with weather, and little
or no overshoot. One thing I do not
>like about the manual boost
controller is that there must be a hole drilled
>between the valve and the
WG to allow pressure to bleed off when the valve
>closes. If you do
not bleed off this residual pressure the WG will remain
>open even after
boost has dropped. I wonder if the bleed hole (1/16"
on
the
>Hallman) hurt performance of the WG?
> Now my plans for a
manual boost controller include a unit to adjust set
>pressure and
integral gauge which can be mounted in the interior of the
car.
>The
residual pressure mentioned above would be bled off with a solenoid
>which
should be faster than a 1/16" hole. Also Roger will be
interested
>that it will also be able to log data via a 0-5V signal.
Now if I could
>only find an affordable graph printer to attach to the
unit. The unit has
a
>peak hold function also. I should be
getting everything I need by the end
>of Dec. and will report back on how
it goes.
>
>Later,
>
>
>Kevin
Schappell
>Auto Answers
>Free automotive classifieds and
more.
>http://www.pacarsearch.com
>----------NEW (under
construction)----------
>If you love cars you have to visit MOTORHEAD
CAFE
>http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
>
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 15:04:15 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost
control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 17:49:50 -0800
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Plug gap was very important to my increase in boost. I was
getting surges
and misfires at WOT until
I lowered the gap. I did
not think it was that important at first, but the
difference is there,
although I still
can not get that EGR hose gasket back in there!
Sam
95 VR4
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 1999
3:12 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: boost control
> for electronic,
the apex SAVC-R sounds like the best, beating out HKS,
Blitz
> and
Profec by incredible amount of tuning ability and the ultra cool
>
display. but at ~$450 and up, how much better is it really than
the
manual
> controller?
Yes, because you have an active element
in the loop that is able to adjust
the way the WGs are
controlled.
> installation must be infinitely more complex as
well, but is it all worth
it?
It is even less complicated as some
manual BC do need to have some hoses to
routed to the valve and to be able to
control it it is mounted inside the
car. On the AVC the main difference is
additional cabeling. It is the onyl
one that needs so much. The Blitz has
only power conenction but a small hose
must run into the cabine as it senses
boost in the control unit.
> also where are most people mounting
their SAVC-R? the SAVC-R
> unlike the other EBCs has the boost gauge
built in right?
Not unlike other EBCs ! Almost every EBC has a boost
gauge because they have
to sense boost to be able to control it. Otherwise
the loop will be out of
control. With the AVC the mounting position isn't
that easy and also I have
seen nicer boost gauges than the
display.
> plus are a blow off valve and turbo timer really
recommended with either
> boost control methods, or can most of us live
with out it?
The stock bypass valve is often getting weaker over the
years and starts
leaking. Also some of us are experiencing the koncking goose
with a larger
filter and I therefore recommend an aftermarket or at least a
1st gen BOV.
Turbo timer is up to you. On my car the Blitz Dual timer works
really good
as it senses boost and vacuum and calculates the cool down phase
on the fly.
During driving you can see how it in- and decreases the time. But
I only
need it for about 10% of the switch offs. This because there is some
easy
driving till to my door necessary and this also cools the car down.
During
testing and datalogging I have seen the timer go up to 58 seconds
afterwards
!
> i'm leaning towards the manual if it can give me
balanced, safe and
> consistent increased boost (15psi sounds like the
limit if you have
> everything else stock). i have a 92 3KGT/TT
w/K&N FIPK, stock engine,
> exhaust, spark plug setup,
etc.
It's the cheap mode and works good. But You also have to get an
aftermarket
boost gauge and installation of the hose is as necessary as for
an EBC !
ÎMHO, spending a lot of money for a great car and then trying
to save each
$$ afterwards is not the right way. If you want to have reliable
power, then
you have to pay for it.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 16:12:31 1999
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"stealth@starnet.net" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Getrag Trans Core Donation Address
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I've gotten kind
responses from several people already
willing to donate $20-$100 (well, one
person suggested
$100 anyway :) toward buying a transaxle core
to
send along to Metric Mechanic for them to tear down,
analyze, see how
to fix. The money will all go toward
obtaining that transaxle
core/paying Metric Mechanic
because the first job will be their hardest--they
have to do a
stepwise teardown, writing notes and making up a
"rebuild
manual" since Getrag releases NO info (of
course).
Metric Mechanic has a website at www.metricmechanic.com
that
explains alot of what they ALREADY do for BMW
Getrag transmissions, which
suffer very similar synchro problems.
Again, don't send money you
can't
afford--this is a "donation to the cause" and the reward
will
hopefully be BETTER transmission repair/synchro fixes,
a real and
GOOD future for the worst problem our cars have!
My fingers get tired, so
here is
my address to send "3S Getrag Fix Donations"
to:
Jack Tertadian
10010 South McGraw Drive
Oak Creek, WI
53154
I will be keeping an account of who sends what, but
until/
unless this WORKS it must be considered a "leap of
faith"
donation. Still, as a group I think this is sort of a
"noble"
thing for us to band together to do...
Once it is done,
I guess I'll publish a list of those who helped,
as a Recognition Award of
sorts? :)
Jack Tertadian
Getrag Fix Warrior
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 16:44:54 1999
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From: "Bob Rand"
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To: "Rob Lewin" <sdholo@hotmail.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<19991118173851.94774.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transaxle
removal-a few q's
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 19:42:40 -0500
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Hi Rob, Its a heck of a job, but you can do it.
1. I
would recommend that you replace your rear main bearing while you have
the
tranny out.
2. Find a machine shop that will grind your flywheel so you
get a good seat
for your new clutch.
3. Get a clutch alignment tool. Even
better if you can get an old shaft from
a tranny.
4. Rent a transmission
jack the day you plan to install. Its alot easier
than trying to wiggle the
thing aroung to get it back in.
5. You may need a pry bar to get it out as
the frame tends to be a very
close fit on the firewall side of the
tranny.
6. Watch you hoses closely so that you dont hang on them or cut them.
Areas
that will be rubbed should get a healthy wrap with duct tape or
equiv.
7. When your installing the tranny, watch out for the metal vacume
loom that
runs across the top. It can get caught between the engine and
tranny and el
smasho.
8. Tools you will need are all metric. both
half and 3/8 inch also
extentions and wobble adapters. Also a good 1/2 inch
breaker bar. Also a
good torque wrench in both 1/2 and 3/8
inch.
Bob
93 Stealth TT
----- Original Message -----
From: Rob
Lewin <sdholo@hotmail.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 1999
12:38 PM
Subject: Team3S: Transaxle removal-a few q's
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 16:47:55 1999
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From: "Bob Rand"
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To: "Rob Lewin" <sdholo@hotmail.com>,
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References:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Transaxle
removal-a few q's
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 19:45:29 -0500
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on my original post, item 1. should be rear main seal.
sorry
about that.
Bob
93 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Nov 24 18:33:46 1999
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From:
"Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost
Control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 20:33:13 -0600
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All-
I'm sure glad this is still a subject of discussion! I
thought I'd
already made so many inquiries that I'd be flamed for bringing
it up again. In my quest to figure out how to set the BADC on
my
S-AVC-R, I got the following advice: for boost setting of
1 bar, use a BADC
of 84% to 40%, depending on the person
advising. Well, I've tried both,
and many values in between.
My experience has been limited because my
datalogger (wife),
is not always available (or willing, on the way to the
grocery),
to watch the numbers flicker. My limited experience has
been
that I get a HELLUVA nice increase in torque in the 2500 to
4000 rpm
range if the BADC is set up in the 65-80% range;
but I get an overboost
between 1.2 and 1.25 bar. Now if
I read my "datalogger"
correctly this is a 'spike,' that goes away
guickly. Is this a
condition the engine can tolerate? Will the
learning process eventually
eliminate this spike? I'd like to
think so since I havent blown any
Y-pipe or IC connections
so far. I also wondered what would happen if I
set the boost
to 1.2 bar, but reduced the BADC to maybe 50%, since
with
stock turbos, I'll not exceed 0.8-0.9 bar at high rpm anyway.
Any and
all comments will be VERY MUCH appreciated. I might
not have all these
questions if I could keep my "datalogger"
along side more often,
but I can't get myself to go to 6000rpm
in even 4th gear (in a six-speed),
while staring below my right
elbow.
Regards,
ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Nov 24 19:59:18 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Paul T. Golley"
<ptgolley@hiwaay.net>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost Control
Date: Wed, 24 Nov 1999 19:57:24
-0800
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Paul;
A short quick spike under WOT is not really to be
worried about. However it
should not really jump to 1.2 You should worry if
this overboost occurs
under load in the upper gears and is not
brief.
As I advised you earlier with your model of SAVC-R, the BADC will
likely be
optimal in the 65+ setting for your application, as it is very near
what I
have. If you had mods, then I'd expect you might be running it lower
but you
are essentially a BC and K&N. I know this is pretty much the same
ole same
ole, but a I bar setting and a 65-70 BADC seem to be about ballpark
for your
setup and I am amiss to understand the 1.2 overspike. Do not set the
BAR
higher!!
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From:
Paul T. Golley <ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, November 24, 1999
6:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Boost Control
>All-
>I'm sure
glad this is still a subject of discussion! I thought I'd
>already
made so many inquiries that I'd be flamed for bringing
>it up again.
In my quest to figure out how to set the BADC on
>my S-AVC-R, I got the
following advice: for boost setting of
>1 bar, use a BADC of 84% to 40%,
depending on the person
>advising. Well, I've tried both, and many
values in between.
>My experience has been limited because my datalogger
(wife),
>is not always available (or willing, on the way to the
grocery),
>to watch the numbers flicker. My limited experience has
been
>that I get a HELLUVA nice increase in torque in the 2500
to
>4000 rpm range if the BADC is set up in the 65-80% range;
>but I
get an overboost between 1.2 and 1.25 bar. Now if
>I read my
"datalogger" correctly this is a 'spike,' that goes
away
>guickly. Is this a condition the engine can tolerate?
Will the
>learning process eventually eliminate this spike? I'd like
to
>think so since I havent blown any Y-pipe or IC connections
>so
far. I also wondered what would happen if I set the boost
>to 1.2
bar, but reduced the BADC to maybe 50%, since with
>stock turbos, I'll not
exceed 0.8-0.9 bar at high rpm anyway.
>Any and all comments will be VERY
MUCH appreciated. I might
>not have all these questions if I could
keep my "datalogger"
>along side more often, but I can't get
myself to go to 6000rpm
>in even 4th gear (in a six-speed), while staring
below my right
>elbow.
>Regards,
>ptg
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 25 04:44:01 1999
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From: "R.G."
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<002501bf36ed$6d17f960$0504b4d8@sjiredff>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost
Control
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 13:44:31 +0100
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> My limited
experience has been
> that I get a HELLUVA nice increase in torque in the
2500 to
> 4000 rpm range if the BADC is set up in the 65-80%
range;
> but I get an overboost between 1.2 and 1.25 bar.
Yes,
this is true as the wastegates stay fully closed and then open quickly.
> I read my "datalogger" correctly this is a 'spike,' that
goes away
> guickly. Is this a condition the engine can
tolerate?
No, I wouldn't bet on this ! It will tolerate 1.1 bars spikes
and 1.0 or so steady under full load.
> Will the learning process
eventually eliminate this spike?
As far as I know, the spike will stay
due to the fast build-up controlled by the high BADC. This is not controlled by
the learning mechanism.
> I also wondered what would happen if I
set the boost
> to 1.2 bar, but reduced the BADC to maybe 50%, since
with
> stock turbos, I'll not exceed 0.8-0.9 bar at high rpm
anyway.
This is simple : It will cost about $2000 - $4000 depending on
the engines damage. You can't tweak the system without getting a
drawback.
The best solution is to find a BADC that allows you a little
overboost and with the selflearning a steady boost of 1.00 bars. Do not boost
over 1 bar as above this margin knock rises very quick and causes faster damage
to the engine than the ECU can react to. It's in your hands as it was in mine. I
got addicted to the immense torque and power the evil can make when increasing
the boost limit. If you increase BADC or Gain (Blitz) both cause the turbos to
boost way over 1.3 bars !!! The higher the initial boost the higher the boost
hold at high rpm. But the higher torque you are getting the earlier knock
appears on the rpm band. Not good !
It's up to you, but don't go for a
too high setting, unless you want a to do a rebuild anyways, Then you have maybe
another availability problem with your "datalogger", LOL.
PS:
Please note that the AVCR1 and AVCR2 may NOT have the same settings and the new
style uses faster electronics.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 25 06:39:52 1999
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From:
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To: "Paul T. Golley"
<ptgolley@hiwaay.net>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<002501bf36ed$6d17f960$0504b4d8@sjiredff>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost
Control
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 08:38:11 -0600
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bulk
Paul,
I haven't followed the previous thread on this subject
so I don't know if
you have the old style SAVC-R or the new. I have the
old style SAVC-R set
at 1.0 kg/cm2, and I cannot go higher than 62% without
incurring spikes past
1.1 kg/cm2. This is with no cats on the car and a
decent flowing exhaust.
While using the stock exhaust and cats I was able to
set the BADC to 70%
while keeping the spikes to 1.1 or so. I have also
observed that with lower
BADC settings the boost spikes are very close to the
dialed in boost.
As for your "data logger" I would advise that
you get a peak boost meter of
a different kind. Boost spikes are quite
hard to notice while driving,
whether you sit in the driver seat or the
passenger seat. It is much safer
to get an electronic peak boost
devise to record the peaks. Personally I
have been happy with the Blitz
dual Turbo Timer.
Good luck,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
> that
I get a HELLUVA nice increase in torque in the 2500 to
> 4000 rpm range if
the BADC is set up in the 65-80% range;
> but I get an overboost between
1.2 and 1.25 bar. Now if
> I read my "datalogger"
correctly this is a 'spike,' that goes away
> guickly. Is this a
condition the engine can tolerate? Will the
> learning process
eventually eliminate this spike? I'd like to
> think so since I
havent blown any Y-pipe or IC connections
> so far. I also wondered
what would happen if I set the boost
> to 1.2 bar, but reduced the BADC to
maybe 50%, since with
> stock turbos, I'll not exceed 0.8-0.9 bar at high
rpm anyway.
> Any and all comments will be VERY MUCH appreciated. I
might
> not have all these questions if I could keep my
"datalogger"
> along side more often, but I can't get myself to
go to 6000rpm
> in even 4th gear (in a six-speed), while staring below my
right
> elbow.
> Regards,
> ptg
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 25 09:07:41 1999
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Message-ID: <383D6BD4.A4A6AFEE@execpc.com>
Date: Thu,
25 Nov 1999 11:03:16 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"stealth@starnet.net" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Getrag UPGRADE research Validity
References:
<004901bf36cb$a1bc5ac0$5d0510ac@kail.colubs.com>
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AI Nut:
Your
letter below, re: not funding Metric Mech's R&D is
a valid
objection, but unless someone steps up to the plate and
sends them a core and
spends some money, they have no drive to
do it all on their own. Part
of this is showing the WILL and the NEED
as evidenced by cooperation and some
money from our 3S community
to "prove" to Metric Mechanic that the
significant effort involved in
sciencing out a "new" trans design,
how to IMPROVE it, will pay them
back with business down the
road.
Quaife, in England, replied to me via their California offices in a
similar
way--they want me to send them a core transaxle in order to tear
down
and see IF/what they can do for us. Costs Money! Problem is,
Quaife has not DONE
this for Getrags before--Metric Mechanic DOES this
already for BMW
Getrags! So, though undoubtedly Quaife (and many other
companies)
COULD do it GIVEN MONEY and time, I believe Metric Mechanic
is
the "path of least resistance" and least cost, and with the
most
SPECIFIC experience to exactly what we want.
Jim Rowe at Met Mech
has been very open, said he must get 1-2 calls
A WEEK about this 3000/Stealth
trans problem lately, but NO ONE
has actually stepped up and sent parts/money
so they had no drive to
DO anything about it...until NOW. He tells me
that the cost of the
first trans will be pretty much what the EVENTUAL cost
of rebuilding
and improving our trans will be--no "extra" cost for
the R&D, but neither
are they going to do the first one for free.
They ARE funding
their R&D themselves, in essence. The first trans
COULD be
damaged in the process...and, if the first one costs MORE
well
that is the idea behind our all pitching in on the first one
with
donations...so everybody eventually benefits--even those so
focused
on making sure the last dollar is accounted for and that the
rebuilder
not make an EXTRA dollar for effort that they not only won't send
any
donation, but deride the very idea!
Look past the tree, and see the
forest...please.
Wonder who will sign up for the hoped-for "Superior
Synchro"
transaxle once situation is all DONE and paid for...maybe by
others?
Hopefully MANY! I am GLAD of that! BUT the
statement below by AI Nut
explaining how he won't send a cent to help--and
RECOMMENDS
no one ELSE help either, but will HAPPILY take
advantage of the
fruits of others' labors and money later on--is sad.
Guess that's evidence
for the saying, "No Good Deed Goes Unpunished".
Again, I don't want
people sending money they can't afford, this
is purely a GROUP effort to find
a solution to our common problem,
supported by those with the VISION and
means to do it.
I think it is a good and worthy
effort.
Sincerely,
Jack Tertadian
10010 South McGraw
Drive
Oak Creek, WI 53154
Who hopes to convince even AI Nut of the greater
good here ;)
AI Nut wrote:
> I, for one,
don't believe that we should fund the development effort of
> the tranny
place. Loaning them a tranny for them to determine IF they
> can
replicate or improve on the GETRAG is an acceptable option.
FUNDING
> their potential effort is something else entirely. They
stand to make a
> considerable profit - hence, they should fund their own
research and
> development, not us. So, no, they get no funds from
me. If my tranny
> dies, I'll be glad to send it to them -- however,
I will NOT pay for
> their research and development.
> AI
Nut
>
> xwing wrote:
>
> > I am HOPING to find one
for $1000 or less. I'll be calling around the
> > country next
Monday and Wednesday to find the "cheapest" way...
> >
until/unless this WORKS, it must be considered a "leap of faith"
donation.
> > Metric Mechanic has a good website at
www.metricmechanic.com
> > that explains what they already do for BMW
Getrag transmissions
> > and their (very similar) synchro
problems.
> > Jack
> > Kai Langendoen wrote:
> > >
How much is it? Let's get an idea of what amounts are required so we
can
> > > strategically calculate our donations.
> > >
Kai
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Nov 25 10:06:47 1999
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"stealth@starnet.net" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Torque converters
References:
<7057B516B5F8D11198320080296571A24D911B@EXCHANGE>
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Torque converter
is a round doughnut-shaped device that
has a driven-by-crankshaft side, and a
driving/attached-to-transmission
side. The DRIVING and the DRIVEN sides
consist of VANED
surfaces closely abutting each other, with hydraulic fluid
between/
inside them. When the DRIVING side rotates, the DRIVEN
side
is propelled into rotation by the hydraulic fluid rushing around
forced
by the driving vanes into the receiving vanes.
Between the two
halves is a STATOR, that can redirect the driven
fluid in such a way that the
SLIPPAGE (driving side moving faster
than driven side) forces fluid
hydraulically HARDER into the driven
vanes, so MULTIPLYING TORQUE
output...until the STALL SPEED
is reached.
STALL SPEED (put most
simply) is rpm where the engine can't go any
faster with throttle floored,
because the driven side is at 0 rpm.
Picture being at stop sign, HARD on
brakes stopped, and you FLOOR
the throttle but car doesn't move at all--what
does the tachometer show?
That is stall speed of your torque
converter.
[note to tech heads this is not exactly the stall speed, it is
a bit above
because
of the technique not allowing any motion, but it is
very close and gives the
essential idea]
If you stall at 1200rpm,
but the car makes more torque at 2500rpm, then
you are delaying max
acceleration until car moves fast enough to get rpm
to 2500. A higher
stall speed would get you into the engine's "powerband"
faster, and
would be less "doggy/slow" on takeoff launch.
A
"looser" (higher stall speed) converter thus can accelerate the car
faster
if matched well to powerband of engine. A looser converter
also is a little
less efficient--it allows more slippage, so at high
speed you lose a bit of
horsepower to that slippage (converts to heat).
If you select a proper
converter, you can gain both ET and MPH...but
sometimes you gain ET
but lose mph because of less efficient/higher
slippage.
HOWEVER, if you have a "LOCKUP" torque converter
where at some
speed/gear the converter has a lockup clutch that engages and
so NO LONGER
uses the hydraulic/slippage action, that topend efficiency can
be regained.
I suspect strongly 3S automatics lock up at some point, but
where/what rpm/
what load/speed I don't know.
If your car can't spin
the wheels on takeoff, and is a little slow off the
line,
but picks up
when your rpm's climb higher, a looser converter could very
well
help
acceleration some amount.
Nitrous oxide, which supplies pure torque, works
well with "tighter"/stock
converters.
Without NOS, a looser
converter may be a good idea.
Jack Tertadian
Michael Booker
wrote:
> Is anybody out there famillair with torque converter
operation and
> specs? I am looking into an aftermarket unit that
"has a stall speed
> between 300-800 RPM above stock". What does
that mean? I'm looking to
> upgrade, and want to know if the increased
power is worth the cost of
> the unit. Any input, is appreciated, and I'll
be posting real-life trial
> results for all of the A/T users, so we all
can benefit.
> Matt 3/Si #311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 10:20:36 1999
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Reply-To:
<dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
From: "Dave Holden"
<dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
To: "3000GT Mailing
(E-mail)"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"Stealth Mailing List (E-mail)"
<stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Any head gasket veterans out
there?
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 21:12:32 -0800
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All,
I
have been having problems with my DOHC N/A Stealth overheating for the
past
week or so. Yesterday I got out the manual and the tools and
started
checking things out. Thermostat works fine and opens at the
specified
temperatures. The cooling fan motors both work fine.
The temperature
sensor and temperature switches all function within specified
parameters. I
checked the rad to make sure that it is not all clogged
up with dead bug
bodies and other crap and it is also fine. All relays
and fuses function
normally.
While I was checking to see when the
cooling fans cycle on, I had the water
neck filler cap off with a thermometer
stuck down there. The water heated
up to about 140, then stopped
getting hotter. This makes sense because the
thermostat starts to open
at 135. Anyway, in an effort to try and get the
car to get hotter, I
cracked the throttle a little. When I did this,
coolant foamed out of
the filler neck. Every time I snap the throttle it
seems to cause
foamed coolant to come out of the filler neck. To me this
indicates
that pressurized gas is being vented into the cooling system
somehow. I
think I am looking at either a failed head gasket or a cracked
head or
block. I will take the car in tomorrow to get a compression test
and a
coolant system pressure test done. This will tell me for sure.
There
is no white foam in the oil, so the leak must be between a cylinder and
a
coolant passage, or an exhaust port and a coolant passage.
Anyway,
if I do have to pull the top end off, are there any pointers that
anyone who
has done this before can offer? Does anyone have any other
theories as
to why the car overheats?
Also, while I have everything taken apart,
I might as well do the timing
belt and water pump, as well as a full
tune-up. Apart from plugs, wires,
fuel filter, PCV valve, oil and rad
caps, and O2 sensor, is there anything
else I should do? The transaxle
oil was changed to Redline Mt90 last year,
so it should still be
fine.
Sorry for the long post. Mine are seldom short because I
don't post much
anymore.
Regards,
Dave Holden
Pearl White '91
R/T
Vancouver, BC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 10:20:48 1999
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 17:55:15
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To:
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: eBay item -
Tenzo Air filter
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just an fyi
for anyone that needs an air filter.. dunno if they're any
good
either.. the mention of a group purchase is what made me think of
posting it here.. like I said.. fyi..
from the web
page:
---------------------------
You are bidding on one TENZO Power Stack
filter and Mass Airflow adapter for
the Mitsubishi Eclipse Turbo 95+, 3000GT
91-97, Dodge Stealth 91-97 and Ford
Explorer 92-95. They are BRAND NEW!
NEVER INSTALLED! NO RESERVE!
<snip>
Volume discounts and group
purchases available.
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=207247216
----------------------------
Dave
95
Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 10:28:09 1999
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From:
"Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@hiwaay.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost Controll
Success!!!
Date: Sat, 27 Nov 1999 19:08:25 -0600
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This a message of sincere thanks to all of you who
have
been so patient and forbearing with my incessant
inquiries regarding the
APEXi Super AVC-R boost
controller.
Today I began increasing my BADC
starting from
56%, and have had NO boost overshoots at all!
Don't
remember what the last setting was that I
used today, but my trusty
datalogger said it only
got up to 0.89 bar without any overshoot. I
must
finally be on the right track.
Many thanks for all the
help!
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 09:16:54 -0600
To:
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From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Funnies
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You know you
have too much horsepower when:
1. The emissions test guy starts laughing
as soon as you pull onto the
rollers.
2. You can't drive your car in the
rain.
3. Your 'significant other' is afraid to drive your car.
4. You are
afraid to drive your car.
5. You spend more on tires than on food.
6. You
spend more on car insurance than on house payments.
7. You look in a state
police car and see a picture of your car taped to
the dash.
8. You
throw your underwear in the garbage rather than the hamper.
9. You have to go
to the track to buy gas.
10. Your mechanic names the new wing of his shop
after you.
11. Jacques Villeneuve and Michael Schumacher wave you by.
12.
You can make the Kessel Run in less than 12 parsecs.
13. You're tempted to
wear your fire suit just to drive to the office.
14. Red signal lights shift
to green as you're approaching then shift back
to red as you're
receding.
15. You arrive somewhere before you left.
16. You get pulled
over for doing 155 in a 35 but the cops will let you go
if "they can
look under the hood."
17. You remove the $2000 stereo system to save 6
lb. of weight.
18. You are not allowed to run in the Silver State
Challenge.
19. You get an anonymous phone call asking if you are interested
in being in
the Cannonball Run.
20. Your face looks like you are
riding a NASA centrifuge when you drive
the car.
22. You need
parachute braking.
23. 'significant other' won't even ride in the car.
24
There is no possible way to "sneak out" of your neighborhood at 6
am.
25. Your pets scramble for their hiding spots as soon as the garage
door
is opened.
26. Family photos throughout the house are replaced with
life-sized
posters of your car.
27. Fuel is delivered to your home: in 55
gallon drums!
28. You carry earplugs in your car.
29. The only spot on the
car which receives any regular cleaning is the
windshield.
30. You find
out that side mirrors don't hold up at speeds exceeding 145 mph
31. Young
children cling to their mommies in fear when you round the corner.
32. Birds
fall out of their nests from the rumble of your 5" dual exhaust
33. All
the major Tire makers are sending you free slicks in hopes of
endorsement
deal.
34. The UPS guy took to taking Steroids so he could keep up with
your
shipments
35. The Fed Ex guy had a nervous breakdown
36. All the
wildlife within a 800ft radius around your house got the HELLOUT.
37. The
nearest Geological Seismic Surveying Station Operator knows your
address by
heart.
38. A booming voice greets potential passengers with, "That's
right....you
paid for the whole seat but you'll only need the EDGE
39. The
earth slows in rotation when you hook up on your new slicks and
head east
now
40. You have to screw your slicks to the wheels
41. Your exhaust pipes
are larger in diameter than your driveline
42. Your fuel pump flows enough to
water a golf course
43. Your compression's high enough you could run diesel
fuel
44. The sparks from your wheelie bars start grass fires on the side of
the
road
45. Your engine idles at 2800 rpm
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/not
enuf horsepower yet
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 10:43:52 1999
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From: "Noah
Erickson" <noaherickson@sprintmail.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: removing carbon
buildup with ATF???
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 02:33:57 -0600
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Someone on the Southwest Supra list said something about
a magazine =
suggesting syphoning some automatic transmission fluid into your
intake =
by removing a vacuum line and putting it in a bottle of ATF, and
that it =
would remove carbon deposits. Does anyone have any idea what
they're =
talking about? That seems completely insane to me, but I've
been wrong =
at least twice before. Any ideas/opinions/experience on
this subject?
Noah
Erickson
http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/
>=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D/\=3D<->=3D<->=3D=
<->=3D<->=3D<->
1991
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #
1954
_\/_
Tsymyn on irc.dsm.org
#dsm
/_/\_\ ICQ#
29810261
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<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Someone on
the Southwest Supra list =
said something=20
about a magazine suggesting
syphoning some automatic transmission fluid =
into=20
your intake by
removing a vacuum line and putting it in a bottle of ATF, =
and=20
that it
would remove carbon deposits. Does anyone have any idea
=
what=20
they're talking about? That seems completely insane to
me, but =
I've been=20
wrong at least twice before. Any
ideas/opinions/experience on this
=
subject?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Noah
Erickson<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/">http://home.sprintmail=
.com/~noaherickson/</A><BR>>=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<=
;->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D/\=3D=
<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<->=3D<-><BR>1991=20
Mitsubishi
Galant VR-4
#=20
1954 &nb=
sp;=20
_\/_<BR>
Tsymyn on
irc.dsm.org =20
#dsm &nb=
sp; =20
/_/\_\
ICQ#
29810261</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2><BR></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BF37B6.B0BFD240--
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 10:49:59 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Noah
Erickson'"
<noaherickson@sprintmail.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: removing carbon buildup
with ATF???
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 10:52:46 -0800
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Beer..also..has
been suggested.
Carbon buildup happens..cant be prevented.
Should
you find a _safe_ way to clear it, it'll just happen again. Not
to
worry.
If you have REALLY bad deposits where it causes a lot of
detonation from hot
spots..etc, you have a larger issue to solve than just
removing a fact of life.
-----Original Message-----
From: Noah
Erickson [mailto:noaherickson@sprintmail.com]
Sent: Friday, November 26, 1999
12:34 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: removing
carbon buildup with ATF???
Someone on the Southwest Supra list said
something about a magazine suggesting
syphoning some automatic transmission
fluid into your intake by removing a
vacuum line and putting it in a bottle
of ATF, and that it would remove carbon
deposits. Does anyone have any
idea what they're talking about? That seems
completely insane to me,
but I've been wrong at least twice before.
Any
ideas/opinions/experience on this subject?
Noah
Erickson
http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/
<http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/>
>=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=/\=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->
1991
Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 #
1954
_\/_
Tsymyn on irc.dsm.org
#dsm
/_/\_\ ICQ# 29810261
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 11:06:26 1999
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Date:
Fri, 26 Nov 1999 22:50:40 EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag Trans UPGRADE
research
To: monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU,
xwing@execpc.com,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I believe Chris
Dotur, when he had his VR4, had the conversion done, or was
thinking about
having the conversion done. Anyway, some shop I think from NJ
makes a
conversion kit and I think the price was somewhere in the
neighborhood of
$10K, including the tranny. This was because (1) the 6 speed
will not
directly bolt up to the 5 speed engine and (2) the wheel/half shaft
position
is different on both trannies. Overall for the money and the
difference, IMHO, its impractical to "upgrade."
Joe
91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 11:09:26 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost
Control
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 16:26:49 -0800
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>Paul;
>
>A short quick spike under WOT
is not really to be worried about. However it
>should not really jump to
1.2 You should worry if this overboost occurs
>under load in the upper
gears and is not brief.
>
>As I advised you earlier with your model
of SAVC-R, the BADC will likely be
>optimal in the 65+ setting for your
application, as it is very near what I
>have. If you had mods, then I'd
expect you might be running it lower but
you
>are essentially a BC and
K&N. I know this is pretty much the same ole same
>ole, but a I bar
setting and a 65-70 BADC seem to be about ballpark for
your
>setup and
I am amiss to understand the 1.2 overspike. Do not set the
BAR
>higher!!
>
>Best
>
>Darc
------------------------------------------------------------------------repl
y
Mine
does exactly the same thing. However, I have start
duty cycle settings
which may be the cause, but it seems
to spool quicker with those settings at
+5-+10%. I have
watched my analog boost gauge with settings of 1
kg/cm2
which is really not 1 bar and is about 14.22 PSI. 1
bar=14.5
PSI and a mmHg=.0193 PSI. I used to think bar and
kg/cm2
were the same and happy they are not cause it means I have
a little
more to go and answers my question of why I have never
hit fuel cut with
stock injectors ever. I just got what felt like lean
surges that have
gone away since the plug gap was reduced.
Good Luck dialing in the SAVCr- I
think the spikes are normal
for its operation -maybe it has to do with how
far your pressure
sensor or most prob., your solenoid is from the T
fittings?
Sam 95 VR4 SAVCr, K&N, Stillen DP, A-pillar,
powerstops,
Greddy TT, plugs at .038
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Mon Nov 29 11:13:54 1999
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From:
"Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'3s'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wanted:
Strut/spring opinions..and others
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:16:42
-0800
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Im starting a
long-term investigation for a late spring purchase of struts
and
springs.
The overall goals are:
1) Not to necesarily lower
the car, if it does lower..thats ok, but im NOT
shopping specifically for how
low the car will be when Im done
2) Not to spend the farm on this..coil
overs are nice..but not for me
3) I need weight control for AutoX.
Period. Springs to hold the car, and
struts to STOP the wild
transitions the car just "has" on stock hardware. A
more
serious lb/in spring isnt a problem..its not like we think for a moment
the
car would ride smooth when we're done anyway.
3) Does anyone have
photos of the hood installs, that allow a front strut tower
brace..and a
source for the brace?
Of course, Team3S friendly shops will be used for
this purchase.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 11:20:10 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "xwing"
<xwing@execpc.com>, "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag Trans Core
Donation Address
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 11:17:52 -0800
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-----Original Message-----From: xwing
<xwing@execpc.com>
>I've gotten kind responses from several people
already
>willing to donate $20-$100 (well, one person
suggested
>$100 anyway :) toward buying a transaxle core
to
>send along to Metric Mechanic for them to tear down,
>analyze,
see how to fix. The money will all go toward
>obtaining that
transaxle core/paying Metric Mechanic
>because the first job will be their
hardest--they have to do a
>stepwise teardown, writing notes and making up
a "rebuild
>manual" since Getrag releases NO info (of
course).
>Metric Mechanic has a website at
www.metricmechanic.com
>that explains alot of what they ALREADY do for
BMW
>Getrag transmissions, which suffer very similar synchro
problems.
>
> Again, don't send money you can't
>afford--this
is a "donation to the cause" and the reward will
>hopefully be
BETTER transmission repair/synchro fixes,
>a real and GOOD future for the
worst problem our cars have!
>
>My fingers get tired, so here
is
>my address to send "3S Getrag Fix Donations"
to:
>
>Jack Tertadian
>10010 South McGraw Drive
>Oak
Creek, WI 53154
>
>I will be keeping an account of who sends what,
but until/
>unless this WORKS it must be considered a "leap of
faith"
>donation. Still, as a group I think this is sort of a
"noble"
>thing for us to band together to do...
>Once it
is done, I guess I'll publish a list of those who helped,
>as a
Recognition Award of sorts? :)
>
>Jack Tertadian
>Getrag
Fix Warrior
Sorry for leaving the entire message quoted, but I think
it's worth
looking at...
Listen up guys/gals... This is a great
project for those of you who
want to assure a source for these items for your
car in the future.
Remember that now neither Stealths or 3000GTs are being
made
anymore, and so Mitsu support will lessen (if that's possible)
as
time goes on. Jack's been at the forefront of this fight all
along,
for those of you who don't know that already. I don't even have
a
Getrag, but I believe in this enough to donate some money to
the
cause. I'm doing this just as a listmember and owner, since
it
would not be appropriate to do it as an Admin. But this is
a
recommended endeavor, IMO...
Now an Admin note:
Anybody replying
to Jack's post, PLEASE strip out Starnet's address
from the TO line, since it
was cross-posted to both lists.
Otherwise Darcy and I have to eat bounced
messages all day!
Thanks,
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 11:27:19 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:17:47 -0600
To: "Mohler, Jeff"
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>,
"'3s'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wanted:
Strut/spring opinions..and others
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At 11:16 AM
11/29/99 -0800, Mohler, Jeff wrote:
>Im starting a long-term investigation
for a late spring purchase of struts
and
>springs <snip> I need
weight control for AutoX. Period. Springs to hold
the car,
and
>struts to STOP the wild transitions the car just "has" on
stock hardware. A
>more serious lb/in spring isnt a problem..its not
like we think for a
moment the
>car would ride smooth when we're done
anyway.
>
I have the Ground Control adjustable suspension with
coil-overs and stock
struts, and it seems to work great. Haven't done an
auto-X since the
installation a coupla weeks ago, but I took a wild ride down
a bumpy/twisty
road, and it stuck pretty good on stock tires at stock
pressures.
Like you, I didn't buy it to just lower the car (I went down
as far as it
would go, though), but to cure my high speed push on road
courses. I figger
the adjustable part of the suspension will let me tune it
in. We'll see
next Spring.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 11:28:22 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Control/
signs of danger?
Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 16:47:35 -0800
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On second thought, Roger is probably right about the evils of
the
boost spike. When I changed my plugs recently, after about
3-months
of having overboost spikes in the 1.1-1.2 area, I noticed a
curiosity that
has bothered me. All the plugs came out a light brown
color, except for #1
plug which had oil and carbon on it. The rear
intercooler pipe had a little
oil
drip out (maybe 1 tablespoon) and the
intake ports on the lower plenum were
stained black with oil. The car
runs excellent though, and the idle is very
quiet
and steady. I get
steady vacuum numbers from the SAVCr also. This may be
normal
for a
5 year old (60,000miles) car, but it might be signs of some sort
of
damage.
I am sending this info to the list, so others who might have
the same
experience
will know what they might see when changing plugs-My
question, Roger, or
anyone, "Is this
normal?"
Sam 95
VR4
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, November 25, 1999 4:45 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost
Control
>> My limited experience has been
>> that I
get a HELLUVA nice increase in torque in the 2500 to
>> 4000 rpm range
if the BADC is set up in the 65-80% range;
>> but I get an overboost
between 1.2 and 1.25 bar.
>
>Yes, this is true as the wastegates
stay fully closed and then open
quickly.
>
>> I read my
"datalogger" correctly this is a 'spike,' that goes away
>>
guickly. Is this a condition the engine can tolerate?
>
>No, I
wouldn't bet on this ! It will tolerate 1.1 bars spikes and 1.0 or so
steady
under full load.
>
>> Will the learning process eventually
eliminate this spike?
>
>As far as I know, the spike will stay due
to the fast build-up controlled
by the high BADC. This is not controlled by
the learning mechanism.
>
>> I also wondered what would
happen if I set the boost
>> to 1.2 bar, but reduced the BADC to maybe
50%, since with
>> stock turbos, I'll not exceed 0.8-0.9 bar at high
rpm anyway.
>
>This is simple : It will cost about $2000 - $4000
depending on the engines
damage. You can't tweak the system without getting a
drawback.
>The best solution is to find a BADC that allows you a little
overboost and
with the selflearning a steady boost of 1.00 bars. Do not boost
over 1 bar
as above this margin knock rises very quick and causes faster
damage to the
engine than the ECU can react to. It's in your hands as it was
in mine. I
got addicted to the immense torque and power the evil can make
when
increasing the boost limit. If you increase BADC or Gain (Blitz) both
cause
the turbos to boost way over 1.3 bars !!! The higher the initial boost
the
higher the boost hold at high rpm. But the higher torque you are getting
the
earlier knock appears on the rpm band. Not good !
>
>It's up
to you, but don't go for a too high setting, unless you want a to
do a
rebuild anyways, Then you have maybe another availability problem with
your
"datalogger", LOL.
>
>PS: Please note that the AVCR1 and
AVCR2 may NOT have the same settings and
the new style uses faster
electronics.
>
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 12:14:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:04:35 -0600
To: "Noah Erickson"
<noaherickson@sprintmail.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: removing carbon buildup
with ATF???
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<fontfamily><param>Arial</param>>Someone on the
Southwest Supra list said
something about a magazine suggesting syphoning
some automatic
transmission fluid into your intake by removing a vacuum line
and putting
it in a bottle of ATF, and that it would remove carbon
deposits. Does
anyone have any idea what they're talking about?
</fontfamily><<<<<<<<
We used to do
this YEARS ago: We'd pour a can of ATF down the carburetor
while the engine
was running. It generated a huge cloud of white smoke,
but it seemed to clean
the valves and spark plugs in old flathead engines
and 312 Ford engines. I
dunno what it would do in a modern car. I thought
a good shot of NOS did the
same thing these
days.
<excerpt><fontfamily><param>Arial</param>>That
seems completely insane to
me, but I've been wrong at least twice
before.
</fontfamily></excerpt><<<<<<<<
I
was wrong once, too. I thought I was wrong about something and admitted
it.
Turns out I was right all along.
Rich
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 12:31:22 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov
1999 15:31:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Matt
<matt001@mail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs
revealed.
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Firstly I would
like to say how grateful I am to be a member of this list,
after the full
interrogation that I received from Bob Forrest because my
email was from a
provider that provides free email (pull your fucking head
in bob some of us
might not be as rich as you, and save cash by using free
email) I am finally
here, Firstly I will share with you how to solve all
your getrag problems in
a couple of simple steps., please bare in mind that
the following information
has been released to me in secret by head
engineers at mitsu developments,
firstly you will need to remove your getrag
6spd, remove this fully and
discard you will not require any of this
anymore, secondly install secondhand
automatic transmission into car, there
it is you getrag problems are now
solved, you losers make me sick spending
good cash of piece of shit cars that
are known for all the expensive and
pathetic fuck ups that come with them,
what sort of car has a gearbox that
explodes at 60000 miles every fucking
time!! why would you waste your money
on that , also your slow cars are
almost impossible to boost without
overboast spikes and other crap that comes
with trying to work a
"non-performance" engine., let me make one
thing clear the engines in your
cars are designed as a every day engine not
to be worked that's why even if
you spend good cash on them they are still
slow and shitty, I have spend
under $1000 on my Honda civic vtec and I can
eat 3000gt's for breakfast
anyway anytime, I have raced over 20 of these cars
and totally pissed over
all of them so far. they are sooo slow its just not
funny, which brings me
to my next point that mitsi decided that they were too
slow and shitty and
fuck out too much that they wont make them anymore
hahahahha you guys suck,
my advice to you all... sell those fucking slow,
ugly, pathetic heaps of
shit that you are driving and visit Pattersons Honda
today to get a good
price on a Civic Vtec like mine! with my current
modifications I can hit
14.6 down the quarter mile, and when I upgrade my
airfilter and exhaust I am
expecting to be hitting the low 6 second marks,
lets see your heavy pieces
of shit do that !!!!! also what you people
fail to realize is that the
Honda civic was designed and based around Hondas
F1 car, making then a
totally awesome racing machine. So stop dreaming
about these miracle
inventions and fixes for your outdated and shitty cars
and fucking sell
them!!! and the likes of people like bob Forrest and
roger maybe you guys
should step back and look at your selves for a
second and you will see what
you are, just some computer nerds totally
addicted to trying to help other
pathetic people solve there shitty little
problems, some advice leave the
computer alone and go out and
socialize.
haha
- Matt Wilkinson
- 1990 Honda Civic Vtec
-
modifications include : Honda racing sticker, racing gear stick and
pedals,
cell phone aerial, red racing stripe.
- proposed modifications : exhaust and
air filter to take my car to the
extreme!!!! 6 second quarter
miles!!!
__________________________________________________
FREE Email
for ALL! Sign up at http://www.mail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 12:42:24 1999
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Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 22:53:29
EST
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transaxle removal-a few q's
To: rtr@vnet.net,
sdholo@hotmail.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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In a message
dated 11/24/99 7:47:13 PM Eastern Standard Time, rtr@vnet.net
writes:
<< . Find a machine shop that will grind your
flywheel so you get a good seat
for your new clutch. >>
BE
CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP (if you choose do to it). The MFGr does not
recommend resurfacing the flywheel on our cars. This is because of the
tremendous horsepower they produce. Thinning the flywheel through
resurfacing can cause the flywheel to rupture during high torque. When
I did
my clutch, I did not resurface the flywheel. Had it been burned or
warped, I
would have replaced it.
Joe 91TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 13:11:10 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all
your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs revealed.
Date: Mon, 29 Nov
1999 13:09:05 -0800
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-----Original
Message-----From: Matt <matt001@mail.com>
>Firstly I would like
to say how grateful I am to be a member of
this
list,
-------snip------
Er... Correction: You WERE a
member of this list.
Now back to our regularly scheduled
program...
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 13:16:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:06:59 -0600
To: "Bob Forrest"
<bf@bobforrest.com>,
"Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt
<merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all your
getrag problems!! secrets
from mitsi techs revealed.
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>>Firstly
I would like to say how grateful I am to be a member of
>this
list,
>
>Er... Correction: You WERE a member of this
list.
>
Hear, hear! Way to go, Bob!
Rich/old poop>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 13:25:14 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Sam Shelat"
<sshelat@erols.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost Control/ signs of danger?
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 13:23:24
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Hi Sam;
The light color on the plugs is likely related to
octane boost...it
discolors the electrodes like this. But, the one plug which
proved oily and
carboned up sounds like an indication of problematic
rings. Detonation may
have cracked/split them in this cylinder. I expect
Roger will advise more
accurately on this as he did a rebuild when this
happened and found oil in
the intercooler pipe as
well.
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat
<sshelat@erols.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 11:31
AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Control/ signs of danger?
>On
second thought, Roger is probably right about the evils of the
>boost
spike. When I changed my plugs recently, after about 3-months
>of
having overboost spikes in the 1.1-1.2 area, I noticed a curiosity
that
>has bothered me. All the plugs came out a light brown color,
except for #1
>plug which had oil and carbon on it. The rear
intercooler pipe had a
little
>oil
>drip out (maybe 1 tablespoon)
and the intake ports on the lower plenum were
>stained black with
oil. The car runs excellent though, and the idle
is
very
>quiet
>and steady. I get steady vacuum numbers
from the SAVCr also. This may be
>normal
>for a 5 year old
(60,000miles) car, but it might be signs of some sort of
>damage.
>I
am sending this info to the list, so others who might have the
same
>experience
>will know what they might see when changing
plugs-My question, Roger, or
>anyone, "Is
this
>normal?"
>
>Sam 95 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 13:33:04 1999
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From:
"Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Two can play at that
stupid game
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:32:23 -0600
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Some of us just
know how to play better!
Thanks for kicking him off Bob!
The
letter below I sent to the admin at the idiots email provider. Not
a
huge victory, but I had nothing better to do. :-)
John
Basol
System Management Services
To Whom It May Concern:
Below
is a copy of an email message received by a mailing list I
subscribe
to. No one on the list welcomed this message, and many take
offense. I
must insist that the person's account be revoked due to
harassment as stated
by YOUR terms and use policy. See
below:
Acceptable Use Policy
The following policy governs the use of
the Mail.com Service by User. User
will comply with the terms and spirit of
the Agreement.
(a) User shall not use the Mail.com Service for spamming.
Spamming
includes, but is not limited to (1) the bulksending of unsolicited
messages,
or the sending of unsolicited e-mails which provoke complaints
from
recipients, (2) the sending of junk mail, (3) the use of distribution
lists
that include people who have not given specific permission to be
included in
such distribution process, (4) posting commercial ads to USENET
newsgroups
that do not permit it, (5) posting articles containing binary
encoded data
to a non-binary newsgroups, (6)excessive and repeated posting
off-topic
messages to newsgroups, (7)excessive and repeated cross-posting,
(8) e-mail
harassment of another Internet user or users, including but not
limited to,
transmitting any threatening, libelous or obscene material, or
material of
any nature which could be deemed to be offensive, and (9) the
e-mailing of
age- inappropriate communications or content to anyone under the
age of 18.
Mail.com has in place a spam monitoring and control system to
reduce spam
sent to and from Users. Mail.com shall make reasonable attempts
to respond
to complaints made by User regarding the receipt of spam or other
harassing
e-mail or, in the case of a User under the age of 18, complaints
from such
User or from such User's parent or guardian regarding the receipt
of spam,
other harassing e-mail, or e-mail containing any
age-inappropriate
communications or content.
Thank you,
A copy
of the harassing post follows my signature.
John Basol
System
Management Services
Firstly I would like to say how grateful I am to
be a member of this list,
after the full interrogation that I received from
Bob Forrest because my
email was from a provider that provides free email
(pull your fucking head
in bob some of us might not be as rich as you, and
save cash by using free
email) I am finally here, Firstly I will share with
you how to solve all
your getrag problems in a couple of simple steps.,
please bare in mind that
the following information has been released to me in
secret by head
engineers at mitsu developments, firstly you will need to
remove your getrag
6spd, remove this fully and discard you will not require
any of this
anymore, secondly install secondhand automatic transmission into
car, there
it is you getrag problems are now solved, you losers make me sick
spending
good cash of piece of shit cars that are known for all the expensive
and
pathetic fuck ups that come with them, what sort of car has a gearbox
that
explodes at 60000 miles every fucking time!! why would you waste your
money
on that , also your slow cars are almost impossible to boost
without
overboast spikes and other crap that comes with trying to work
a
"non-performance" engine., let me make one thing clear the
engines in your
cars are designed as a every day engine not to be worked
that's why even if
you spend good cash on them they are still slow and
shitty, I have spend
under $1000 on my Honda civic vtec and I can eat
3000gt's for breakfast
anyway anytime, I have raced over 20 of these cars and
totally pissed over
all of them so far. they are sooo slow its just not
funny, which brings me
to my next point that mitsi decided that they were too
slow and shitty and
fuck out too much that they wont make them anymore
hahahahha you guys suck,
my advice to you all... sell those fucking slow,
ugly, pathetic heaps of
shit that you are driving and visit Pattersons Honda
today to get a good
price on a Civic Vtec like mine! with my current
modifications I can hit
14.6 down the quarter mile, and when I upgrade my
airfilter and exhaust I am
expecting to be hitting the low 6 second marks,
lets see your heavy pieces
of shit do that !!!!! also what you people
fail to realize is that the
Honda civic was designed and based around Hondas
F1 car, making then a
totally awesome racing machine. So stop dreaming
about these miracle
inventions and fixes for your outdated and shitty cars
and fucking sell
them!!! and the likes of people like bob Forrest and
roger maybe you guys
should step back and look at your selves for a
second and you will see what
you are, just some computer nerds totally
addicted to trying to help other
pathetic people solve there shitty little
problems, some advice leave the
computer alone and go out and
socialize.
haha
* Matt Wilkinson
* 1990 Honda Civic Vtec
*
modifications include : Honda racing sticker, racing gear stick and
pedals,
cell phone aerial, red racing stripe.
* proposed modifications : exhaust and
air filter to take my car to
the extreme!!!! 6 second quarter
miles!!!
__________________________________________________
FREE Email
for ALL! Sign up at http://www.mail.com <http://www.mail.com>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
<http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 13:47:40 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
cc: Bob
Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>, Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all
your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs revealed.
In-Reply-To:
<3.0.5.32.19991129150659.007f5960@cedar-rapids.net>
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I have to say,
it was an entertaining email.. :)
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650)
429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Merritt wrote:
> >>Firstly
I would like to say how grateful I am to be a member of
> >this
list,
> >
> >Er... Correction: You WERE a member
of this list.
> >
> Hear, hear! Way to go, Bob!
>
>
Rich/old poop>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 13:57:55 1999
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Message-ID:
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:56:02 -0500
From:
Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
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Subject: Team3S: Question, and
statement.
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<CB1B2EAE12C5D2119E0000805F9F82210396D889@otcmsg09.carlson.com>
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First off, I
would like to say that I forwarded that profane, abusive
letter to:
abuse@mail.com. I encourage all of you to do the same. Enough
complaints, and
he will be kicked off.
But enough about that jerk....I have a question.
I
recieved my ATR high-flow cat today, and noticed it was missing
something.
Flanges to bolt it in place. How have you other ATR users
gotten around the
problem? I have a custom cat-back exhaust, utilizing
the 3" pipe from a
VR-4, and I would like to know if it's worth having
all new downpipes
fabricated. Any input is appreciated.
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 14:09:53 1999
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Message-ID: <3842F98D.30DEAA93@citicorp.com>
Date: Mon, 29 Nov
1999 17:09:17 -0500
From: Jeff Schwartz
<jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
Organization: Citicorp
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To: 3000GT
Team3: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: I used MT-90,
now it's harder to shift.
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Well I changed
all the fluids this weekend and I used MT-90 in the
transfer
case and the
transmission. I used 75W90 gear oil in the rear axle. Now
I find
that when it's cold, it's harder to shift than before. I didn't
want to
use a
blend of the MTL and MT-90 because the cars specs call for a 90W
oil,
and the
MTL is only an 80W. I filled the trani, transfer case,
and rear diff
until they all
spilled out, so I know they are full.
Once it warms up, I think it
might be easier
to shift, but when it's cold
it's very notchy even if I rev match.
Anyway else run
into this.
Thanks,
Jeff
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama
Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 14:20:51 1999
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'mrbook@gate.net'" <mrbook@gate.net>
Cc:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Downpipe Question
(was: Question, and statement)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 14:19:45
-0800
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Michael...
The ATR system is designed as a slip fit. This
works if you buy their entire
exhaust, from downpipe to bumper. However, even
though I bought their
downpipe and test pipe, I still wanted to be able to
exchange the test pipe
and high flow cat for emissions testing. As a result,
I had to have five
flanges welded on, one at the end of the ATR downpipe, one
at each end of
the test pipe, one at each end of the high flow cat. In all
cases, I had the
shop weld on three bolt flanges that match the front end of
the GReddy
exhaust. Cost was less than $50. It's a great swap process, MUCH
easier than
dropping the entire exhaust to remove the slip fit test
pipe.
BTW...I since gave up on the exhaust completely and have a
Flowmaster
muffler (with a three bolt flange) attached directly to the end of
the
downpipe. Yes, it's loud, but not unbearably, and it took another ~30
pounds
off the car. The worst part was the engine torque, which caused
the
Flowmaster to slap up against the underside of the car when decelerating.
My
solution fits in the bailing wire category, I used a sheet of asbestos
on
top of the muffler, followed by a 8" X 14" section of old tire,
strapped on
each end with muffler clamps. Works great. Not very pretty, but I
don't
spend much time under there. :-)
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Booker
[mailto:mrbook@gate.net]
Sent: Monday, November 29, 1999 1:56 PM
To:
mattrt@hotmail.com
Cc: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject: Team3S:
Question, and statement.
<snip>
I recieved my ATR high-flow cat
today, and noticed it was missing
something. Flanges to bolt it in place. How
have you other ATR users
gotten around the problem? I have a custom cat-back
exhaust, utilizing
the 3" pipe from a VR-4, and I would like to know if
it's worth having
all new downpipes fabricated. Any input is
appreciated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 14:22:33 1999
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Date: Mon,
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From: "J. Stephen Gula"
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CC: 3000GT Team3:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I used MT-90, now
it's harder to shift.
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> MTL is only
an 80W. I filled the trani, transfer case, and rear diff
> until
they all
> spilled out, so I know they are full. Once it warms up, I
think it
I'm pretty sure oyu're only supposed to fill the tranny to hte
"peek hole" and not
until it pours out of hte top or you risk
damaging the tranny. Someone care to
elaborate? My understanding is
there are three "Holes' in the tranny.. on for
draining.. the
"peek" hole or whatever, and the fill hole.. and you fill until the
oil
comes out of the peek hole.
--Steve "Loco3kGT"
Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 14:33:43 1999
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Date: Sat, 27 Nov
1999 11:31:13 EST
Subject: Team3S: Will 2nd gen. stock VR4 rims fit 1st gen.
VR4?
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I've found
someone wanting to sell a set of polished '94 stock VR4 rims. Will
these fit
my '91 VR4? I believe the 2nd gen rims have a little more room
inside for
the larger 2nd gen. brake calipers - no problem, but I'm wondering
if there
are any other changes (offset the same?).
Thanks for any
info.
Paul Klusman
p.s. Still otherwise looking for two stock
'91-'93 VR4 rims in good condition.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 15:11:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise
<diranged@hearme.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
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I installed a
bleeder valve today and i'm having alot of problems! Here's
what i did... I
took the vacume line coming off of the top (near the
driver) side of the Y
pipe and cut that and stuck the middle barb of the
1156A part on the
linegoing to the plastic H looking thing and one of the
other barbs on the
one coming from the Y-pipe. Originally when I went out
for a drive the boost
hit 1.12 at the same time I hit my rev limiter. When
I pulled over and
lowered the boost, I lowered it about 1/2 turn. In 1st
gear, I hit .95 boost,
but at around 5500rpm the car acted like the rev
limiter was kicking in, then
stoped around 6200 rpm and reved like normal.
In 2nd gear, boost only
measured to .5 or so BAR. In 3rd, it would spike
to .85 then QUICKLY go down
to .3-.4BAR. After a few more adjustments, Ive
got it at about .92 BAR and i
stil lget that wwierd rev kick at around
55rpm when under WOT in 1st and 2nd
gear. In the rest of my gears, I dont
get that... What the hell is going on?
At one point, I floored it and the
car actually died.. The thing hadnt fallen
off, but once I reset the ECU
and started it up, it acted fine.. Could
someone give me some advice? Have
I screwed something up royally? It just
doesnt hoold the boost with ANY
sort of predictability.. it seems random as
hell! ACK HELP!!!
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 15:23:11 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch
<MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 17:23:05
-0600
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> I installed
a bleeder valve today and i'm having alot of
>
problems!
Ugh... Does anyone else dislike it when people don't
follow conversations? People here unanimously have said bleeder valves
suck for exactly the reasons you mention here. Those reasons being: poor
boost control and boost spikes.
> Have I screwed something up royally?
It just doesnt hoold
> the boost with ANY sort of predictability.. it
seems
> random as hell! ACK HELP!!!
Get a real boost
controller. Either a ball-restrictor type of manual controller, or an
electronic controller. Don't waste your time with this rinky-dink bleeder
stuff on your expensive car.
Have you regapped your plugs to
.034"? If not, that's the likely cause of the stumbling. The
other likely cause is that you are going over 1.0 bar with no knock control,
which is causing either severe detonation or fuel cut.
-Matt
'95
3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 15:49:43 1999
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From: "R.G."
<robby@freesurf.ch>
To:
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References:
<2B6D2E7F9E0AD311AB0500805FB7ECD00F447F@exchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Downpipe Question (was: Question, and statement)
Date: Mon, 29
Nov 1999 23:56:43 +0100
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bulk
Chris is right, although when I ordered my ATR DP with highflow cat
and
testpipe, I also got the slip in flange that then bolts to the
stock
exhaust. It often depends where you are getting this stuff and in this
case
Nexus was good (at least in the beginning). You may have a look at
my
homepage http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html under the
exhaust
installation page. On one pic you should see the ATR cat and the
flange. You
may get the same flange again to bolt onto the stock dp but I
think the
assembly will be too long then. The dp also came with two clamps
and I only
had to cut the dp a little to make everything fit the stock
exhaust or Borla
cat back. On my car, ATR dp, ATR high flow cat, the
reducement flange and
two clamps did the whole work :) I can simply exchange
the cat with the
testpipe that has the same diameter and
lenght.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> The ATR system is designed as a
slip fit. This works if you buy their
entire
> exhaust, from downpipe
to bumper. However, even though I bought their
> downpipe and test pipe, I
still wanted to be able to exchange the test
pipe
> and high flow cat
for emissions testing. As a result, I had to have
five
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Mon Nov 29 16:01:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:00:45
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
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Argh #2
!!!!!!
> I installed a bleeder valve today and i'm having alot of
problems! Here's
> what i did... I took the vacume line coming off of the
top (near the
> driver) side of the Y pipe and cut that and stuck the
middle barb of the
> 1156A part on the linegoing to the plastic H looking
thing and one of the
> other barbs on the one coming from the
Y-pipe.
Installed wrong ! The bleeder should never be installed in the
feeding line !!!!
The actuators may act wavey !
> for a drive the
boost hit 1.12 at the same time I hit my rev limiter.
rev limiter is at
7000 !
> get that... What the hell is going on? At one point, I
floored it and the
> car actually died..
Typical sign of the ECU is
kicking in and switches the injectors off ... better
known as fuel cut in
first stage and what you got was probably full cut off....
deadly for the
engine !
> The thing hadnt fallen off, but once I reset the
ECU
> and started it up, it acted fine.. Could someone give me some
advice? Have
> I screwed something up royally? It just doesnt hoold the
boost with ANY
> sort of predictability.. it seems random as hell! ACK
HELP!!!
If so, you are running more boost than you read. You are on teh
dark side and in
your case ... go back stock, totally stock and get a good
boost controller.
Roger
93'3000GT TT .. been there and paid for
that
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 16:33:47 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Team3S: Red Line oil
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Hello everyone,
this is my first post in this list,although I have been
a member for about 2
months.
I get plenty of enjoyment just reading my e-mails and learning from
all
of you.
Now for the question, I would like to know what
grade(weight)gear oil to
use on my baby?
I have always used BG
syncroshift, but I would like to change to Red
Line oils due to
availability
and convenience. I hear that they are both good oils to use,
any
experiences in area wuold be appreciated.I would also like to ask if
any
of you know where I can get a custom made carbon fiber high risen
hood,
simply because I'm trying to reduce as much weight as I can
without
having to gut the interior of my car.With a high risen hood I'm
hoping
to get a strut bar for the front end.
Thank you all for you
time
Boris
91 Stealth RT/TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 16:40:06 1999
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From: Joshua
<joshua@unconundrum.com>
To: "'Matt Wise'"
<diranged@hearme.com>, Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc: Bob
Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>,
Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2 step
fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets fro
m mitsi techs
revealed.
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:39:35 -0500
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I personally
emailed him and asked him for one race. The winner would win
the
other's car and also the loser would announce publicly that he lost and
in
the type of car. He hasn't written me back :(
Joshua
Prince
3si#0137
joshua@unconundrum.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Wise [mailto:diranged@hearme.com]
Sent: Monday,
November 29, 1999 4:47 PM
To: Merritt
Cc: Bob Forrest; Team3S
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all your getrag problems!! secrets
from mitsi techs
revealed.
I have to say, it was an entertaining email.. :)
--Matt
Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Merritt
wrote:
> >>Firstly I would like to say how grateful I am to be a
member of
> >this list,
> >
> >Er...
Correction: You WERE a member of this list.
> >
> Hear,
hear! Way to go, Bob!
>
> Rich/old poop>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
cc:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness!
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Where SHOULD it
be installed then?
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On
Tue, 30 Nov 1999, R.G. wrote:
> Argh #2 !!!!!!
>
> > I
installed a bleeder valve today and i'm having alot of problems! Here's
>
> what i did... I took the vacume line coming off of the top (near
the
> > driver) side of the Y pipe and cut that and stuck the middle
barb of the
> > 1156A part on the linegoing to the plastic H looking
thing and one of the
> > other barbs on the one coming from the
Y-pipe.
>
> Installed wrong ! The bleeder should never be installed
in the feeding line !!!!
> The actuators may act wavey !
>
>
> for a drive the boost hit 1.12 at the same time I hit my rev
limiter.
>
> rev limiter is at 7000 !
>
> > get
that... What the hell is going on? At one point, I floored it and the
>
> car actually died..
>
> Typical sign of the ECU is kicking in
and switches the injectors off ... better
> known as fuel cut in first
stage and what you got was probably full cut off....
> deadly for the
engine !
>
> > The thing hadnt fallen off, but once I reset the
ECU
> > and started it up, it acted fine.. Could someone give me some
advice? Have
> > I screwed something up royally? It just doesnt hoold
the boost with ANY
> > sort of predictability.. it seems random as
hell! ACK HELP!!!
>
> If so, you are running more boost than you
read. You are on teh dark side and in
> your case ... go back stock,
totally stock and get a good boost controller.
>
> Roger
>
93'3000GT TT .. been there and paid for that
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 16:42:41 1999
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Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:42:33 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Group
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness!
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Usually, the
bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the boost
control
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall
across from the
throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous $2
Wal-Mart aquarium valve
installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
(note: Charlie
now has a Blitz DSBC).
Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate
the upper RPM hesitation.
--
I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin
Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General
Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 16:47:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness!
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Great! Thanks...
i'll try that in a bit when I leave for work.
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh
wrote:
> Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of
the boost control
> solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the
firewall across from the
> throttle body. You can see a picture of
the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> (note:
Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
>
> Lower your spark plug gap to
0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> --
> I'm surprised
you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
>
>
Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 16:55:44 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness!
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Well i did
that.. this tmie I jsut get stock boost, no matter what I set
the bleeder to.
ANy ideas?
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon,
29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a
bit when I leave for work.
>
> --Matt Wise
> *NOC
Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh
wrote:
>
> > Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the
lower hose of the boost control
> > solenoid. This is the
right-most solenoid on the firewall across from the
> > throttle
body. You can see a picture of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium
valve
> > installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> > (note:
Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> >
> > Lower your spark plug
gap to 0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> > --
>
> I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
> >
> > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> >
General Atomics
> > San Diego
> >
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Nov 29 17:00:44 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: <smii@mediaone.net>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Red Line
oil
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 16:57:38 -0800
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bulk
Hi Boris;
Redline MT 90 is generally regarded as the fluid of
choice for the tranny,
although if in really cold areas, you might consider
the GM synthetic which
is reportedly also very good. Redline super heavy duty
is used in the
transfer case and rear end by a lot of members and reports are
great on
these applications. I cannot help you with the high rise fiber
hood
information although I know fiber hoods are available...I'm just not
certain
if they are high rise types. I'm certain you'll get your answer to
this
though.
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From:
smii <smii@mediaone.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 4:48
PM
Subject: Team3S: Red Line oil
>Hello everyone, this is my
first post in this list,although I have been
>a member for about 2
months.
>I get plenty of enjoyment just reading my e-mails and learning
from all
>of you.
>
>Now for the question, I would like to
know what grade(weight)gear oil to
>use on my baby?
>I have always
used BG syncroshift, but I would like to change to Red
>Line oils due to
availability
>and convenience. I hear that they are both good oils to use,
any
>experiences in area wuold be appreciated.I would also like to ask if
any
>of you know where I can get a custom made carbon fiber high risen
hood,
>simply because I'm trying to reduce as much weight as I can
without
>having to gut the interior of my car.With a high risen hood I'm
hoping
>to get a strut bar for the front end.
>Thank you all for you
time
>Boris
>91 Stealth RT/TT
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 17:06:06 1999
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Message-ID: <00b101bf3ace$ac138e60$140100b6@monster>
Reply-To:
"Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes"
<gil@warpedweb.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2 step fix to all
your getrag problems!! secrets from mitsi techs revealed.
Date: Mon, 29 Nov
1999 20:03:10 -0500
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>under $1000 on my Honda civic vtec and I can eat
3000gt's for breakfast
You couldn't eat my 3kgt base for any meal... I'll
pink slip you on that,
bro.
Also... that's beside the point. Honda
Civic's are butt ugly... so.. what's
your point? After I win your pink
slip? I'd have your car turned into a
small
cube at my local
junkyard and use at as yard art. It would be an extreme
upgrade as it
would look SO much nicer in that form...
>
>- Matt
Wilkinson
>- 1990 Honda Civic Vtec
>- modifications include : Honda
racing sticker
EWWWW!!! A Honda Racing Sticker?
That add a few
HP????
racing gear stick and pedals
awesome... more intricate
mods. Your mommy
help you install them?
cell phone
That a
turbo cell phone... or an NA?
aerial, red racing stripe.
a REAL
aerial racing stripe? <shudder!!!!>
>- proposed
modifications : exhaust and air filter to take my car to the
>extreme!!!!
6 second quarter miles!!!
an air filter and exhaust is gonna make
that Honda do a 6.0 quarter?
It'll make it faster than a Hennesey
Viper? Amazing... That'd be the
fastest ugly piece of toilet paper on
the planet... congrats..
Where do these people come from????
<sigh>
-Gil
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 17:14:33 1999
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To: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
cc:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
In-Reply-To:
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Another thing,
when I was installing the bleeder, I noticed that behind my
battery there is
a black plastic connection (for some sort of
electronics) that isnt
connected to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
--Matt Wise
*NOC
Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock boost, no matter
what I set
> the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
>
> --Matt
Wise
> *NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov
1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
> > Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a
bit when I leave for work.
> >
> > --Matt Wise
> >
*NOC Admin*
> > (650) 429 3751
> >
> > On Mon, 29
Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> >
> > > Usually, the
bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the boost control
> >
> solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across from
the
> > > throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous
$2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > > installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> > >
(note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > >
> > > Lower
your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> >
> --
> > > I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts
has a 3 for 1 special!
> > >
> > > Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
> > > General Atomics
> > > San Diego
>
> >
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 17:26:56 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS Update
Date:
Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:32:57 -0600
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First of all,
thanks goes out to whomever told Rob Smith that I had not
received my
"compensation" check. Rob contacted me and
immediately
corrected the problem.
Rob also offered a full refund on
the clutch that I have. Since he
contacted me, I'm going to
install the RPS clutch. Again...
I'll keep everyone
posted.
Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 18:07:46 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
cc:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
In-Reply-To:
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Ok question.. I
double checked that the valve was letting air out of the
3rd barb by plugging
one and blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
works. Now, Is it possible
I reversed the hoses somehow? Here's a diagram
showing how it is right
now..
Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under the plastic
clear
H
connector..
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
seen from
looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
Hose from
Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of the top of the H
connector,
right next to the bottom selanoid hose...
Everything sound right? Please
tell me something is screwed up.. cuz I
basically cant raise my boost right
now..
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov
1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind my
> battery there is a black plastic
connection (for some sort of
> electronics) that isnt connected to
anything... Anyone have any ideas?
>
> --Matt Wise
> *NOC
Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
>
> > Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock boost,
no matter what I set
> > the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
> >
> > --Matt Wise
> > *NOC Admin*
> > (650) 429
3751
> >
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
>
> > > Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for
work.
> > >
> > > --Matt Wise
> > > *NOC
Admin*
> > > (650) 429 3751
> > >
> > > On
Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> > >
> > > >
Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of the boost
control
> > > > solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid
on the firewall across from the
> > > > throttle body. You
can see a picture of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > >
> installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> > >
> (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > > >
> >
> > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate the upper RPM
hesitation.
> > > > --
> > > > I'm surprised you
stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1 special!
> > > >
> > > > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> > > >
General Atomics
> > > > San Diego
> > > >
>
> >
> > > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999
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From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
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To: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
cc:
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Subject: Re: Team3S:
Boost madness -- a VERY WIERD update!
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I decided to try
swapping the hoses going to the selanoid, and guess what,
NO CHANGE! Nothign
changed... still .38-.40 boost.. So then I disconnected
the bottom hose from
the selanoid (the one w/ the bleeder on it) and guess
what, instead of
getting 1.5bar, I got a max of .5 bar.. definately felt
like more power, but
not the 1+ bar I would expect.. so now I challenge
everyone.. Show me who is
smartest here :) I'm in the bay area if anyone
wants to look at this.. what
in the hell is going on here?
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429
3751
On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> Ok question.. I
double checked that the valve was letting air out of the
> 3rd barb by
plugging one and blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
> works. Now,
Is it possible I reversed the hoses somehow? Here's a diagram
> showing
how it is right now..
>
> Selanoid --- (TOP hose) ->
somewhere under the plastic clear H
>
connector..
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
> seen
from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
>
> Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of the top of the
H
> connector, right next to the bottom selanoid hose...
>
>
Everything sound right? Please tell me something is screwed up.. cuz I
>
basically cant raise my boost right now..
>
> --Matt Wise
>
*NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt
Wise wrote:
>
> > Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind my
> > battery there is a black plastic
connection (for some sort of
> > electronics) that isnt connected
to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
> >
> > --Matt
Wise
> > *NOC Admin*
> > (650) 429 3751
> >
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> >
> > > Well
i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock boost, no matter what I set
> >
> the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
> > >
> > > --Matt
Wise
> > > *NOC Admin*
> > > (650) 429 3751
> >
>
> > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> > >
> > > > Great! Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for
work.
> > > >
> > > > --Matt Wise
> >
> > *NOC Admin*
> > > > (650) 429 3751
> > >
>
> > > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > >
> > > > > Usually, the bleeder valve is
installed on the lower hose of the boost control
> > > > >
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across from
the
> > > > > throttle body. You can see a picture of
the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > > > > installation
at http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> > >
> > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > > > >
> > > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate the
upper RPM hesitation.
> > > > > --
> > > >
> I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for 1
special!
> > > > >
> > > > > Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
> > > > > General Atomics
> > >
> > San Diego
> > > > >
> > > >
>
> > > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 19:02:27 1999
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Message-ID:
<005301bf3adf$0d24d960$445135d1@pentiumt>
From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Matt Wise"
<diranged@hearme.com>,
"Ken Middaugh" <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:00:21
-0800
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Precedence:
bulk
Matt;
I assume you want the hoses back to stock
configuration.
1) Top line from solenoid goes to the H connector.
2)
Bottom line from solenoid goes down to rear turbo
3) Line from back of Y goes
to H connector.
Best
Darc
-----Original
Message-----
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
To: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 6:09
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness! (another quick
question)
>Ok question.. I double checked that the valve was
letting air out of the
>3rd barb by plugging one and blowing on the other
barb.. so the bleeder
>works. Now, Is it possible I reversed the hoses
somehow? Here's a diagram
>showing how it is right
now..
>
>Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under the
plastic clear
H
>connector..
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
>seen from
looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the
engine.
>
>Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of
the top of the H
>connector, right next to the bottom selanoid
hose...
>
>Everything sound right? Please tell me something is
screwed up.. cuz I
>basically cant raise my boost right
now..
>
>--Matt Wise
>*NOC Admin*
>(650) 429
3751
>
>On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
>>
Another thing, when I was installing the bleeder, I noticed that
behind
my
>> battery there is a black plastic connection (for
some sort of
>> electronics) that isnt connected to anything...
Anyone have any ideas?
>>
>> --Matt Wise
>> *NOC
Admin*
>> (650) 429 3751
>>
>> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999,
Matt Wise wrote:
>>
>> > Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut
get stock boost, no matter what I
set
>> > the bleeder to. ANy
ideas?
>> >
>> > --Matt Wise
>> > *NOC
Admin*
>> > (650) 429 3751
>> >
>> > On Mon,
29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>> >
>> > > Great!
Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for work.
>> >
>
>> > > --Matt Wise
>> > > *NOC
Admin*
>> > > (650) 429 3751
>> > >
>>
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>> >
>
>> > > > Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the
lower hose of the
boost control
>> > > > solenoid.
This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across
from the
>>
> > > throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous $2
Wal-Mart
aquarium valve
>> > > > installation
at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
>>
> > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
>> > >
>
>> > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to eliminate
the upper RPM
hesitation.
>> > > > --
>> > >
> I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for
1
special!
>> > > >
>> > > > Ken Middaugh
(858) 455-4510
>> > > > General Atomics
>> > >
> San Diego
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>> > >
>>
>
>> >
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 19:03:21 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999
19:02:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
X-Sender:
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To: stealth@starnet.net
cc: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost madness -- a VERY WIERD update!
In-Reply-To:
<Pine.SOL.3.95.991129185731.20251D-100000@nodserv>
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FYI, someone
just suggested that it could be an exhaust problem.. This
sounds very
plausable considering that i know my exhaust is stuck in tour
mode.. Coudl
that be it?
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon,
29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
> I decided to try swapping the hoses
going to the selanoid, and guess what,
> NO CHANGE! Nothign changed...
still .38-.40 boost.. So then I disconnected
> the bottom hose from the
selanoid (the one w/ the bleeder on it) and guess
> what, instead of
getting 1.5bar, I got a max of .5 bar.. definately felt
> like more power,
but not the 1+ bar I would expect.. so now I challenge
> everyone.. Show
me who is smartest here :) I'm in the bay area if anyone
> wants to look
at this.. what in the hell is going on here?
>
> --Matt
Wise
> *NOC Admin*
> (650) 429 3751
>
> On Mon, 29 Nov
1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>
> > Ok question.. I double checked that
the valve was letting air out of the
> > 3rd barb by plugging one and
blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
> > works. Now, Is it
possible I reversed the hoses somehow? Here's a diagram
> > showing how
it is right now..
> >
> > Selanoid --- (TOP hose) ->
somewhere under the plastic clear H
> > connector..
>
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
> >
seen from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
> >
> > Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT
of the top of the H
> > connector, right next to the bottom selanoid
hose...
> >
> > Everything sound right? Please tell me
something is screwed up.. cuz I
> > basically cant raise my boost right
now..
> >
> > --Matt Wise
> > *NOC Admin*
>
> (650) 429 3751
> >
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> >
> > > Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind my
> > > battery there is a black
plastic connection (for some sort of
> > > electronics) that
isnt connected to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
> > >
>
> > --Matt Wise
> > > *NOC Admin*
> > > (650) 429
3751
> > >
> > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> > >
> > > > Well i did that.. this tmie I
jsut get stock boost, no matter what I set
> > > > the bleeder
to. ANy ideas?
> > > >
> > > > --Matt
Wise
> > > > *NOC Admin*
> > > > (650) 429
3751
> > > >
> > > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt
Wise wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Great! Thanks...
i'll try that in a bit when I leave for work.
> > > > >
> > > > > --Matt Wise
> > > > > *NOC
Admin*
> > > > > (650) 429 3751
> > > > >
> > > > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > > >
> > > > > > Usually, the bleeder valve
is installed on the lower hose of the boost control
> > > > >
> solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across from
the
> > > > > > throttle body. You can see a picture
of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart aquarium valve
> > > > > >
installation at
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> > >
> > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> > > > >
>
> > > > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to
eliminate the upper RPM hesitation.
> > > > > > --
>
> > > > > I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin Donuts has
a 3 for 1 special!
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> > > > > > General
Atomics
> > > > > > San Diego
> > > > >
>
> > > > >
> > > > > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> > > > >
> >
> >
> > > >
> > >
> > > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 19:04:16 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999
19:03:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
X-Sender:
diranged@nodserv
To: Darcy Gunnlaugson <wce@telus.net>
cc: Ken
Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
In-Reply-To:
<005301bf3adf$0d24d960$445135d1@pentiumt>
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Really? THe top
line goes to the H connector? if so, then where on the
H-connecter? which
connection?
Where does the Y-line go to the H connector?
Thanks
alot..
--Matt Wise
*NOC Admin*
(650) 429 3751
On Mon, 29 Nov
1999, Darcy Gunnlaugson wrote:
> Matt;
>
> I assume you
want the hoses back to stock configuration.
>
> 1) Top line from
solenoid goes to the H connector.
> 2) Bottom line from solenoid goes down
to rear turbo
> 3) Line from back of Y goes to H connector.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
> To: Ken
Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
> Cc:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Monday, November 29, 1999 6:09 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help!
Boost Madness! (another quick question)
>
>
> >Ok
question.. I double checked that the valve was letting air out of the
>
>3rd barb by plugging one and blowing on the other barb.. so the
bleeder
> >works. Now, Is it possible I reversed the hoses somehow?
Here's a diagram
> >showing how it is right now..
> >
>
>Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under the plastic clear
H
> >connector..
>
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector as
> >seen
from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the engine.
>
>
> >Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb on the LEFT of the top
of the H
> >connector, right next to the bottom selanoid
hose...
> >
> >Everything sound right? Please tell me
something is screwed up.. cuz I
> >basically cant raise my boost right
now..
> >
> >--Matt Wise
> >*NOC Admin*
>
>(650) 429 3751
> >
> >On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> >
> >> Another thing, when I was installing the
bleeder, I noticed that behind
> my
> >> battery there is a
black plastic connection (for some sort of
> >> electronics)
that isnt connected to anything... Anyone have any ideas?
>
>>
> >> --Matt Wise
> >> *NOC Admin*
>
>> (650) 429 3751
> >>
> >> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999,
Matt Wise wrote:
> >>
> >> > Well i did that.. this
tmie I jsut get stock boost, no matter what I
> set
> >> >
the bleeder to. ANy ideas?
> >> >
> >> > --Matt
Wise
> >> > *NOC Admin*
> >> > (650) 429
3751
> >> >
> >> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise
wrote:
> >> >
> >> > > Great! Thanks... i'll
try that in a bit when I leave for work.
> >> > >
>
>> > > --Matt Wise
> >> > > *NOC Admin*
>
>> > > (650) 429 3751
> >> > >
> >>
> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken Middaugh wrote:
> >> >
>
> >> > > > Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on
the lower hose of the
> boost control
> >> > > >
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the firewall across
>
from the
> >> > > > throttle body. You can see a
picture of the infamous $2 Wal-Mart
> aquarium valve
> >> >
> > installation at
>
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
> >>
> > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
> >> > >
>
> >> > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034 to
eliminate the upper RPM
> hesitation.
> >> > > >
--
> >> > > > I'm surprised you stopped me officer, Dunkin
Donuts has a 3 for 1
> special!
> >> > > >
>
>> > > > Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> >> > >
> General Atomics
> >> > > > San Diego
> >>
> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >> > >
> >>
>
> >> >
> >>
> >> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >>
> >
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 19:29:27 1999
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From: "nketo"
<nketo@accglobal.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question, and
statement.
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 1999 23:59:56 -0800
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bulk
Hey Mike,
The ATR high flow cat is designed to bolt onto
"their" exhaust system, that
has
a straight pipe (no flanges)
off of the main cat and the tip off the
cat-back exhaust system.
It works
great if u have the ATR downpipe as well; this system is designed
for ATR
ONLY use.
You'll have to cut n' weld it for it to work.
If it's
possible to return it, you might wanna look into the random tech.
high flow
cat;
I believe this one's a direct bolt on to the factory flanges.
For
a custom job, you can have twin 2.5 inch pipes from each turbo
back
(expensive and hard,
I know) feeding each side of the exhaust
seperately.
Good luck!
-Noble
-----Original Message-----
From:
Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
To: mattrt@hotmail.com
<mattrt@hotmail.com>
Cc: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday,
November 29, 1999 1:58 PM
Subject: Team3S: Question, and
statement.
>First off, I would like to say that I forwarded that
profane, abusive
>letter to: abuse@mail.com. I encourage all of you to do
the same. Enough
>complaints, and he will be kicked off.
>But enough
about that jerk....I have a question.
>I recieved my ATR high-flow cat
today, and noticed it was missing
>something. Flanges to bolt it in place.
How have you other ATR users
>gotten around the problem? I have a custom
cat-back exhaust, utilizing
>the 3" pipe from a VR-4, and I would
like to know if it's worth having
>all new downpipes fabricated. Any input
is appreciated.
>
>Matt
>#311
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 19:30:26 1999
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From: "Darcy
Gunnlaugson" <wce@telus.net>
To: "Matt Wise"
<diranged@hearme.com>
Cc: "Ken Middaugh"
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 19:28:24
-0800
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Matt;
It does not really matter which nipple you hook up to
on the H connector .
I would expect you'd hook the lines up in the most
convenient manner so the
hoses are routed well and do not have bends or kinks
in them from convoluted
routing. For example, the nipple nearest the
solenoid would likely be the
best choice to hook that (upper) hose up to, and
the one nearest the Y would
be the likely candidate for that hose. The other
2 hoses on the H connector
should not have been unplugged or
rerouted--right!! Now that leaves the
bottom hose off of the solenoid which
runs down to the nipple on top of the
rear turbo. That's a fun one and if
replacing, you'll likely have to pull
the battery and washer bottle to get
room to get at it.
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt
Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
To: Darcy Gunnlaugson
<wce@telus.net>
Cc: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, November 29, 1999 7:06 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost
Madness! (another quick question)
>Really? THe top line goes to
the H connector? if so, then where on the
>H-connecter? which
connection?
>Where does the Y-line go to the H
connector?
>
>Thanks alot..
>
>--Matt Wise
>*NOC
Admin*
>(650) 429 3751
>
>On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Darcy
Gunnlaugson wrote:
>
>> Matt;
>>
>> I assume
you want the hoses back to stock configuration.
>>
>> 1) Top
line from solenoid goes to the H connector.
>> 2) Bottom line from
solenoid goes down to rear turbo
>> 3) Line from back of Y goes to H
connector.
>>
>> Best
>>
>>
Darc
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
From: Matt Wise <diranged@hearme.com>
>> To: Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
>> Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>> Date: Monday, November 29,
1999 6:09 PM
>> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahh! Help! Boost Madness! (another
quick question)
>>
>>
>> >Ok question.. I double
checked that the valve was letting air out of the
>> >3rd barb by
plugging one and blowing on the other barb.. so the bleeder
>>
>works. Now, Is it possible I reversed the hoses somehow? Here's
a
diagram
>> >showing how it is right now..
>>
>
>> >Selanoid --- (TOP hose) -> somewhere under the
plastic clear H
>> >connector..
>>
>
(BOTTOM hose) -> on the top right barb of the H connector
as
>>
>seen from looking at it from the top. Its on the side facing the
engine.
>> >
>> >Hose from Y-Pipe -> goes to the barb
on the LEFT of the top of the H
>> >connector, right next to the
bottom selanoid hose...
>> >
>> >Everything sound right?
Please tell me something is screwed up.. cuz I
>> >basically cant
raise my boost right now..
>> >
>> >--Matt
Wise
>> >*NOC Admin*
>> >(650) 429 3751
>>
>
>> >On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>>
>
>> >> Another thing, when I was installing the bleeder, I
noticed that
behind
>> my
>> >> battery there is a
black plastic connection (for some sort of
>> >>
electronics) that isnt connected to anything... Anyone have any
ideas?
>> >>
>> >> --Matt Wise
>>
>> *NOC Admin*
>> >> (650) 429 3751
>>
>>
>> >> On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Matt Wise wrote:
>>
>>
>> >> > Well i did that.. this tmie I jsut get stock
boost, no matter what I
>> set
>> >> > the bleeder
to. ANy ideas?
>> >> >
>> >> > --Matt
Wise
>> >> > *NOC Admin*
>> >> > (650) 429
3751
>> >> >
>> >> > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999,
Matt Wise wrote:
>> >> >
>> >> > > Great!
Thanks... i'll try that in a bit when I leave for work.
>> >>
> >
>> >> > > --Matt Wise
>> >> >
> *NOC Admin*
>> >> > > (650) 429 3751
>>
>> > >
>> >> > > On Mon, 29 Nov 1999, Ken
Middaugh wrote:
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
> Usually, the bleeder valve is installed on the lower hose of
the
>> boost control
>> >> > > >
solenoid. This is the right-most solenoid on the
firewall
across
>> from the
>> >> > > >
throttle body. You can see a picture of the infamous
$2
Wal-Mart
>> aquarium valve
>> >> > > >
installation at
>>
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm
>> >>
> > > (note: Charlie now has a Blitz DSBC).
>> >> >
> >
>> >> > > > Lower your spark plug gap to 0.034
to eliminate the upper RPM
>> hesitation.
>> >> >
> > --
>> >> > > > I'm surprised you stopped me
officer, Dunkin Donuts has a 3 for
1
>> special!
>>
>> > > >
>> >> > > > Ken Middaugh (858)
455-4510
>> >> > > > General Atomics
>>
>> > > > San Diego
>> >> > >
>
>> >> > >
>> >> > > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>> >> > >
>>
>> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>> >>
>>
>
>> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>>
>>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 19:49:54 1999
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From:
"Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: "Sirius"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: WARNING: Bad
Mobil 1 Oil
Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:51:20 -0600
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I found this on http://www.blueovalnews.com/daily_posting.htm.
Might want
to check any oil you bought recently.
.Bad Mobil-1 5W30 oil
still on store shelves. Mobil oil is advising
consumers NOT to use 5/30 oil
with manufacturer codes of X19K9A3, X20J9A3,
X21K9A3, X22K9A3 and X26K9A3.
The codes can be found on the bottom of the
products
container.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse
GSX
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 20:07:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Nov 1999 23:04:30
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From: Kermit Burroughs <mymach5@mindspring.com>
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Question, and
statement.
References:
<002a01bf38ad$7ddb87a0$1c129a8e@default>
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nketo
wrote:
> Hey Mike,
>
> The ATR high flow cat is designed
to bolt onto "their" exhaust system, that
> has
> a
straight pipe (no flanges) off of the main cat and the tip off the
>
cat-back exhaust system.
> It works great if u have the ATR downpipe as
well; this system is designed
> for ATR ONLY use.
>
> You'll
have to cut n' weld it for it to work.
>
I'm sure I'm not alone,
but I have an ATR DP and CAT, with a Borla cat back. No
welding
necessary.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 21:41:41 1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "xwing"
<xwing@execpc.com>,
"Sirius 3000GT Mail List"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Getrag Trans Core
Donation Address
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 1999 03:04:30 -0800
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Listen up guys... This is a great project for those of you who
want
to assure a source for these items for your car in the
future.
Remember that now neither Stealths or 3000GTs are being
made
anymore, and so Mitsu support will lessen (if that's possible)
as
time goes on. Jack's been at the forefront of this fight all
along,
for those of you who don't know that already. I don't even have
a
Getrag, but I believe in this enough to donate some money to
the
cause. I'm doing this just as a listmember and owner, since
it
would not be appropriate to do it as an Admin. But this is
a
recommended endeavor, IMO...
Now an Admin note:
Anybody replying
to Jack's post, PLEASE strip out Starnet's address
from the TO line, since it
was cross-posted to both lists.
Otherwise Darcy and I have to eat bounced
messages all day!
Thanks,
Forrest
-----Original
Message-----From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>;
stealth@starnet.net
<stealth@starnet.net>
>I've gotten kind responses from
several people already
>willing to donate $20-$100 (well, one person
suggested
>$100 anyway :) toward buying a transaxle core
to
>send along to Metric Mechanic for them to tear down,
>analyze,
see how to fix. The money will all go toward
>obtaining that
transaxle core/paying Metric Mechanic
>because the first job will be their
hardest--they have to do a
>stepwise teardown, writing notes and making up
a "rebuild
>manual" since Getrag releases NO info (of
course).
>Metric Mechanic has a website at
www.metricmechanic.com
>that explains alot of what they ALREADY do for
BMW
>Getrag transmissions, which suffer very similar synchro
problems.
>
> Again, don't send money you can't
>afford--this
is a "donation to the cause" and the reward will
>hopefully be
BETTER transmission repair/synchro fixes,
>a real and GOOD future for the
worst problem our cars have!
>
>My fingers get tired, so here
is
>my address to send "3S Getrag Fix Donations"
to:
>
>Jack Tertadian
>10010 South McGraw Drive
>Oak
Creek, WI 53154
>
>I will be keeping an account of who sends what,
but until/
>unless this WORKS it must be considered a "leap of
faith"
>donation. Still, as a group I think this is sort of a
"noble"
>thing for us to band together to do...
>Once it
is done, I guess I'll publish a list of those who helped,
>as a
Recognition Award of sorts? :)
>
>Jack Tertadian
>Getrag
Fix Warrior
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Nov 29 23:16:47 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <Bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Apexi AFC for
sale
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 1999 01:23:01 -0600
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In-Reply-To:
<006a01bf3ae2$fd382bc0$445135d1@pentiumt>
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Precedence: bulk
New style AFC
for sale. Asking 300. obo.. still in the box.
Brad
Check
out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ# 3612682
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info, our web page is
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