--

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 06:23:22 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> Now the question.  What are the chances I did damage to the pistons/rings?

I'm a little bit more critical than Barry (no flame broh) as I ignored this
signs too much. I agree with Barry about the gap of the plugs as this may cause
some miss that finally interprets the ECU as knock and therefore retards the
timing heavily.

The overboost you had was not really dangerous, but I'm wondering about the
early stumbeling if the plugs are gapped correctly around 0.034. My advice : If
you regap the plugs do an easy compression test at the same time. I'm pretty
sure you have no problems but it's a good feeling to KNOW that everything is
fine. The pistons are fine for sure but the stock rings are not the best you can
get :)

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 14:44:07 1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Fw: Pistons
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 17:43:41 -0400
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Barry,
Here is what they say...
Matt
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com



>Hi Matt here we go. ROSS  custom 3000GT pistons. These pistons were
>made using the latest advances in piston technology. This is NOT a 3000
>stock piston casting or copy, it is a proprietary casting that looks oval
>when viewed. The ring pack has been moved down to keep the rings away from
>the combustion chamber,since the rings have been moved down toward the pin,
>oil support rails are included. 4 anti detonation grooves have been cut
into
>the top of the piston to help quell detonation. The piston rides on a
>slipper skirt forging for minimum contact area on the cylinder walls to
>decrease friction, and the forging was made in such a way to make the
piston
>as light as possible without having to use the milling machine to carve out
>the excess weight. The material 2618T-61, and machining they use also allow
>you to run a little tighter piston to wall clearance, so you don't sound
>like a diesel truck when you are running. The piston pins are $$ costly
>0.866 Super Duty 4340 taper wall pins that are full floating and come with
>Spirolox, along with the pistons being machined with lock removal indents.
>The pins have already been precision cut, fit, and chamfered, their already
>to go. The ring set is not standard issue 3000GT either, they are Total
Seal
>rings made for these pistons, and will NOT fit a stock 3000GT piston. The
>compression height remains, the stock 8.0-1 as we feel that this is optimal
>compression for turbocharged motors, and the top of the piston is  baby
>smooth with no sharp edges to help eliminate the chance of "hot spots".
>Background on ROSS:
>ROSS leads the way, with the latest in equipment and quality personnel to
>make a superior piston. This is their mission; "Make the best piston money
>can buy" regardless of price. They are not cheap, and they don't care, or
>wheel and deal on pistons. They do very little advertising, as they don't
>need to, they are swamped ALL the time with orders. One of the biggest
>differences between ROSS and companies like JE, Arias, etc., is that ROSS
>has machinery that is stae of the art, and much more up to date and they
are
>constantly investing, to make sure that they stay ahead of the competition.
>Their quality control checks are second to none, and all the pistons are
>checked by optical laser, nothing gets past them. One of the biggest thing
>that makes ROSS stand apart in respect to the piston manufacturing is their
>"gang cutter" this is a machine that cuts the ringlands into the piston.
The
>machine they have holds the piston in such a way that when the cutting tool
>contacts the piston to cut the ringlands , it is held in place VERY
rigidly,
>and the ringlands are cut perfectly warp free, and totally flat. JE, Arias
>and the rest have yet to buy one of these machines. You ask what does this
>mean to me? Well, imagine this: if the ring grooves are totally warp free
>and straight, the rings lay flat on the piston ringlands, this is
especially
>critical when you are really revving the motor because the rings are being
>pulled up and down, and if the rings don't have a completely flat surface
to
>put pressure on, they tend to flutter, because they do not have the full
>contact area. When the rings start to flutter to much, this is when rings
>start to break. Also another by product of totally flat ringlands, is
better
>sealing of the rings.
>
>These pistons are not to be confused with lesser forged pistons that are
>merely stock piston copies, using stock pins and stock specs etc.These are
>the best custom pistons money can buy. Sure you can buy cheaper pistons,
but
>that's what you get....


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 17:07:33 1999
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References: <000e01be9382$075cb3e0$baeea58e@Brent.sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Overboost
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Brent,

        I overboosted my 92 RT Turbo, I had a Greedy Profect Turbo Adjuster
hooked up. Well The car seemed fine for a couple of days, but there I
started to seed that dreaded Blue Smoke coming out my tail pipes. To make
this story short, it cost me $4500 in Engine repairs, all new pistons rings,
and all that good stuff. Just keep an Eye on it. Hope you don't have to go
through what I did.

Scotty
92 Stealth RT
omnitech@fast.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Brent & Tara Maksymiw <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
To: 3SI Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 11:23 PM
Subject: Team3S: Overboost


> I ran into an overboost situation tonight during a bleeder valve install.
> During the install, I must have accidentally pulled off the sense line
from
> the corner of the Y-pipe to the H connector.  So even though my bleeder
> valve was shut, the pressure to the waste gates was straight to
atmosphere.
> I have an SPI boost gauge and was modulating throttle in 2nd gear to see
> what the boost would be.  On my first run, the boost went to 16psi, so I
> pulled over and made sure the bleeder was shut.  I couldn't see any
> disconnected lines.  I then went and did another 2nd gear pull and this
time
> the boost went to 17psi (I never had it under WOT).  It stumbled three
times
> really quick before I could get my foot off of the accelerator.  It was a
> stumble and not a face-through-the-windshield fuel cut.  It was probably
> never over 15psi on either of the two pulls for more than two seconds.
>
> Now the question.  What are the chances I did damage to the pistons/rings?
> I have since put the sensing hose back on and the car runs fine.  No loss
in
> power that I could tell (other than the fact it is back down to stock
> boost).
>
> Comments please!!!!
>
> Brent M.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 18:05:16 1999
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Subject: Team3S: RH drive shaft
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I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
the transmission.  The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't get
it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft has.  It
seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
special steps to remove a clip.  Has anyone been through this before?

Dave
'91 RT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 18:30:03 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:39:57 -0500
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> Sounds good.  Do they require new calipers when installed on
>> VR4s ?  Anyone got an address or phone no. for  Porterfields
>> or an outfit that sells them?


>Rich just mentioned that they work with the stock calipers so I know I'm
>redunant for mentioning.  They are just aftermarket replacements though.

>Dave mentioned that he got his Wagner (but they might be Warner??)
>rotors from a local parts dealer.  However, I think the cryogenically
>treated Porterfield's might be the best low cost rotor option
>currently.  Also, I made a mistake -- George is running cross drilled
>rotors (but probably not cryo treated).  Here are the prices again:
>Porterfield
>91-93 front rotors $79 each
>94+ front rotors $99
>cryogenic treatment $40
>cross drilled $50

>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors since
>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+ mph.  They
>are the only two folks that have snapped/broken rotors completely.  Dave
>should be inflicting the most punishment though since he has the big
>Porsche caliper upgrade with Pagid pads from Brad Bedal.  Soooo, the
>Wagner (or Warner) is currently the best proven low cost rotor to date.


Ken-

Thanks!
Regards, ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question
Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:08:01 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 06:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question


>On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors, shimmies when braking.
The
>rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why they would shimmy....Any
idea's?

Josh-
Mine and I'm sure many others will respond that our '95 VR-4s
front brake rotors warp severley.  I have installed my third set
and they will warp soon, causing the shimmy you have.  I have no
solutions to offer, but the lists have promising alternatives.
Regards, ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 19:08:42 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors
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>treated Porterfield's might be the best low cost rotor option
>currently.  Also, I made a mistake -- George is running cross drilled
>rotors (but probably not cryo treated).  Here are the prices again:


>Porterfield
>91-93 front rotors $79 each
>94+ front rotors $99
>cryogenic treatment $40
>cross drilled $50
>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors since
>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+ mph. 

Ken-
Thanks for the info!
Regards, ptg



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors
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>
>>It sounds like Rich and Dave give the most punishment to rotors since
>>they are attending track events and routinely brake from 120+ mph.  They
>>are the only two folks that have snapped/broken rotors completely.  Dave
>>should be inflicting the most punishment though since he has the big
>>Porsche caliper upgrade with Pagid pads from Brad Bedal.  Soooo, the
>>Wagner (or Warner) is currently the best proven low cost rotor to date.
>
When I described my experiences snapping PowerSlots to the Porterfield
expert, he suggested that perhaps the rotors were breaking at the hub
because of cornering stresses. Topeka is primarily a left-hand track which
puts most of the stress on the right front wheel, and I did break two
right-hand rotors on two separate occasions, both breaking in the very
first driving session -- one on the 4th lap, one at the end of the first 20
min. session.

It does not matter, however, whether PowerSlots snap because of excessive
heat or cornering stresses. Either way, they are not suitable for open
track events. I don't want to use anything that might break into two pieces
and render my vehicle unbrakable again. The last time was kinda
frightening, when the brakes went at about 100 mph with a tight right
approaching. A long runoff area saved my big butt.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!


.


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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RH drive shaft
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 19:30:47 -0700
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These things can be a PITA.  They have a spring clip of some sort.  Prying
by itself won't usually cut it.  What you need to try and do is get a big
wedged pry bar in there and whack it pretty hard with a bit of pressure on
the pry bar to push the shaft outwards.  I have seen people with "the knack"
do it with one simple blow.  The percussion seems to pop the snap ring and
with the ouutward pressure, off it comes.  I was not able to pry mine off.
Popping it with a blow or two did it.  The half shafts gave me the most
trouble.  I doubt I could pull it off twice in a row.  On one side I simply
pulled it off the knuckle since the bnoot was already in need of
replacement.  Even though I had one side off I simply could not get the
other one to budge.  *shrug*

Hope that helps.



Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
> the transmission.  The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
> to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't get
> it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft has.  It
> seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
> special steps to remove a clip.  Has anyone been through this before?
>
> Dave
> '91 RT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 21:13:57 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 00:09:08 -0400
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The person who had the car before, had cross dilled rotors put on, I don't
know what type.  When I feel the rotor it feels really nice and smooth and
no warping.  I know on my SL when my rotors warped, they had ridges.  I was
thinking maybe the tire's aren't balance, but could they be warped and the
rotor be smooth?

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul T. Golley [mailto:ptgolley@ro.com]
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 10:08 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question


-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 06:28 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question


>On my mom's 95 Spyder, which has drilled rotors, shimmies
when braking.
The
>rotors feel flat and I can't figure out why they would
shimmy....Any
idea's?

Josh-
Mine and I'm sure many others will respond that our '95
VR-4s
front brake rotors warp severley.  I have installed my third
set
and they will warp soon, causing the shimmy you have.  I
have no
solutions to offer, but the lists have promising
alternatives.
Regards, ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 21:31:25 1999
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From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes shimmy question
Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 21:29:36 -0700
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> When I feel the rotor it feels really nice and smooth and
>no warping.  I know on my SL when my rotors warped, they had ridges.  I was
>thinking maybe the tire's aren't balance, but could they be warped and the
>rotor be smooth?
>

you can't check warping by feeling the rotor --- you need to use a runout gage and slowly
turn the rotor. It only takes .010 " or so to  cause shimmy. To check while driving just
slowly apply light pressure on the brakes and if the rotors are warped the steering
wheel will rock back and forth 1\8 " or so at the same frequency as the wheels are turning.

         Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  1 22:49:14 1999
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Thanks for the tip.  A pickle fork made a handy wedge, and wedging it in there clear of
the seal and giving it a couple firm whacks made it pop right out.  Once I got the
shaft out, I got to see the culprit.  The end of the shaft has a little notch about
1/4" from the end, where a circular clip is installed.  It actually just looks like a
piece of wire in a semicircle of slightly larger diameter.   The shop manual indicates
"N" in one of the figures for this part, which indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
should try to track down a replacement.  What a pain!

Thanks,

Dave
'91 RT TT


"Barry E. King" wrote:

> These things can be a PITA.  They have a spring clip of some sort.  Prying
> by itself won't usually cut it.  What you need to try and do is get a big
> wedged pry bar in there and whack it pretty hard with a bit of pressure on
> the pry bar to push the shaft outwards.  I have seen people with "the knack"
> do it with one simple blow.  The percussion seems to pop the snap ring and
> with the ouutward pressure, off it comes.  I was not able to pry mine off.
> Popping it with a blow or two did it.  The half shafts gave me the most
> trouble.  I doubt I could pull it off twice in a row.  On one side I simply
> pulled it off the knuckle since the bnoot was already in need of
> replacement.  Even though I had one side off I simply could not get the
> other one to budge.  *shrug*
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> >
> > I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
> > the transmission.  The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
> > to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't get
> > it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft has.  It
> > seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
> > special steps to remove a clip.  Has anyone been through this before?
> >
> > Dave
> > '91 RT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 00:58:10 1999
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xwing wrote:

> > Maybe this info isn't forthcoming because you guys want to hold on to
> > your advantage ;), hmmm?
>
> mmmMMOOOHHHOHOHHHHhhhahhhahhaahhhhahaahhhhhh!
> Does anybody remember Daystrom, the guy on that original Star Trek
> episode, who built the M5 computer to run the ship but it went wild and
> destroyed innocents, and Daystrom went mad himself?   hehehe.

Hey, that's a great episode:  "The Ultimate Computer".  That's the
one where Kirk makes M5 agree that murder is bad and it should
be punishable by death, then he convinces M5 that is has itself
committed murder.

> it DID take me about a week in off hours, late nights, all the while talking to
> Barry King, Jeff Wong, Tom  in Idaho, Mike M, etc on MIRC trying to keep my mouth
> shut like that mathematics wizard who solved Fermat's last theorum with 7 years
> of work all in secret from his best friends...

Actually, Andrew Wiles would never have solved FLT if it wasn't
for the invaluable help of his friends/colleagues, and that includes
some of the final pieces that fell into place.  Furthermore, after Wiles
solved it he was happy to share the knowledge with others and make
it readily available.  [jab jab]

But I guess I can understand your motives to keep it under wraps
so that Mike can profit from his efforts, and all of your benevalent
yet Machiavellian nonsense about helping performance shops earn
a buck.  We all know that you just want Mike to give you good
deals on NOS.  ;)

Joshin' ya,

--Errin H.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 07:03:21 1999
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From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 10:05:23 -0400
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>Acc.Acc. gave Andy the same price on the clutch as the participants in =
the GP. I
>have not been informed by Matt or Frank that there is another friend =
who takes
>one. But, this is what a GP organizer is for.
>
>All: This seems to be an ongoing GP :)

I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an original purchaser in the =
GP on these clutches. I am and was in need for one within a 3 week =
period so I had e-mailed, I think it was Bob Smith at RPS, and he had =
responded that they would be out within 2 weeks or close to that not the =
originally stated 2 months.  I had figured that I would have my clutch =
in time to reassemble my car by the Ocean City Gathering but now it =
doesn't appear that that will happen. I'm not sure on the date that my =
order had gone in but it appears that it wasn't soon enough to be =
included in that quoted shipment time :(   As far as others I had =
e-mailed one person that had said that they had originally received a GP =
price before the count down had been started.  The reason for this was =
that I had at that time just been quoted a price of $500 for that same =
clutch from Acc. Acc.

Andy


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV>&gt;Acc.Acc. gave Andy the same price on the clutch as the =
participants in=20
the GP. I<BR>&gt;have not been informed by Matt or Frank that there is =
another=20
friend who takes<BR>&gt;one. But, this is what a GP organizer is=20
for.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;All: This seems to be an ongoing GP :)</DIV>
<DIV><BR>I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an original =
purchaser in=20
the GP on these clutches. I am and was in need for one within a 3 week =
period so=20
<FONT color=3D#0000ff>I had e-mailed, I think it was Bob Smith at =
</FONT><FONT=20
color=3D#0000ff face=3D"">RPS, and he had responded that they would be =
out within 2=20
weeks or close to that not the originally stated 2 months</FONT>.&nbsp; =
I had=20
figured that I would have my clutch in time to reassemble my car by the =
Ocean=20
City Gathering but now it doesn't appear that that will happen. I'm not =
sure on=20
the date that my order had gone in but it appears that it wasn't soon =
enough to=20
be included in that quoted shipment time :(&nbsp;&nbsp; As far as others =
I had=20
e-mailed one person that had said that they had originally received a GP =
price=20
before the count down had been started.&nbsp; The reason for this was =
that I had=20
at that time just been quoted a price of $500 for that same clutch from =
Acc.=20
Acc.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Andy</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 08:21:15 1999
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> I'm not sure what this was about, but I was an original purchaser in the GP
> on these clutches.

This is true and unfortunately, somehow Andy's name came into this "private
meant" discussion. This was wrong and I'd like to apologize for that as it
caused many confusion.

Again, sorry for that !
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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David Margrave wrote:

>  The shop manual indicates
> "N" in one of the figures for this part, which indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
> should try to track down a replacement.  What a pain!
>

Hi Dave;

I must be missing something here. I don't understand why you want to replace a non
replaceable part. Is it broken, damaged, lost, unretrievable, or for some reason you're
unable to reuse it? I know it is nice to put new parts in, particularly small cheap things
that may may fail and compromise your work, but isn't non replaceable non replaceable?
However, on the other side of the things, if you find a part # be sure and post it  for
future reference :-)

Best

Darc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 09:37:22 1999
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From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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>David Margrave wrote:
>
>>  The shop manual indicates
>> "N" in one of the figures for this part, which indicates non-replaceable, so I guess I
>> should try to track down a replacement.  What a pain!
>>
. I don't understand why you want to replace a non
>replaceable part. Is it broken, damaged, lost, unretrievable, or for some reason you're
>unable to reuse it? >
>

The confusion is the use of the term non-replaceable, the proper term is non-reusable.
Some parts stretch or otherwise deform when installed, used or removed, therefore
they want you to use a new part.
In this case, sense it's a retainer clip it could probably be reused, as long as its not bent
and is in no danger of coming off of the shaft.

Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 12:03:51 1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 14:52:41 -0400
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Oskar,
We ended up with enough for the $450 price on the turbo clutch carbon which
is excellent for a $649 clutch.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Oskar <swede@pclink.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP


>Roger and Frank,
>did we get enough participants to get into the better price brackets?
>Oskar
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Meyer <meyer2@erols.com>
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 20:47
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Clutch GP
>
>
>>Roger,
>>Andy is a participant in the GP. He ordered at the same time as everyone
>>else.
>>Frank
>>www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>
>>>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 19:17:06 1999
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sorry I'm so lame, but I can't figure out how to get the clutch bearing
off the trans input shaft.  The shop manual shows a snap ring, but I
can't find one except the one holding the input shaft in, which I'm not
going to screw with.

you wouldn't BELIEVE how much crud was inside the bellhousing!



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 19:23:22 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 19:23:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: For Sale!!!!!
To: stealth@dragnet.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I have a few thing from a 92 3000GT SL for sale, The stock exaust (no
tips), red passenger side door fully loaded minus handle, two heads
from a DOHC NA plus all accessories, cams, roller rockers, etc.
Passenger side quarter panel, quarter glass, rear bumper(inner/outer),
3 pc. tailights, complete rear suspension (ECS), 3 16" factory mitsu
rims, almost brand new set of speed rated 225/55HR-16, Directionals
used less than 1500 mi.  If anyone has any questions please e-mail me
PRIVATLEY.

    Thanks, Dustin
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 19:58:11 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 22:55:39 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch release bearing
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In a message dated 5/2/99 10:18:04 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
davidma@premier1.net writes:

> sorry I'm so lame, but I can't figure out how to get the clutch bearing
>  off the trans input shaft.  The shop manual shows a snap ring, but I
>  can't find one except the one holding the input shaft in, which I'm not
>  going to screw with.

>  you wouldn't BELIEVE how much crud was inside the bellhousing!

Hey Dave,

  I'm doing my clutch right now also.  The transaxle just came out a couple
of hours ago.  The fork is held on the pivot ball with a snap spring of some
kind.  I just popped it off the ball and the release bearing came right off.

-Dave Rich
'91 R/T TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 20:09:20 1999
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Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 23:08:56 EDT
Subject: Team3S: NEW MOTOR---NEW TRANNY----STILL CAR TROUBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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PROBLEM #1
Okay, so I have a California stock 92 Vr-4 with a newly installed 92 GTO
engine.
The car ran fine for 3 weeks, then I had an injection malfuncion.
Replaced the injectors
Since then the car has not ran properly
When I try to boost slowly the car goes kind of okay, BUT when I try to give
it a little horse power the boost cuts out and my exhaust sounds choppy. 
Apparently I'm not getting enough fuel pressure or something becaue my car
idles extremely rough.

PROBLEM #2
If I hold my foot on the gas and try to keep it at a constant RPM like  say
1000 or 2000....
the rpm will jump up and down  like from 700 to 1000 back to 700   or 2000 to
1700 back to 2000   etc...... the car idles up and down.

PROBLEM#3
Had a new  tranny installed 20,000 miles ago.  The tranny still pops out of
gear at times, but no where near the degree as the old "bad" tranny did. And
sometimes the shifting feels tight and quick and at others feels longer, and
dry-er (less fluid)

PROBLEM#4
At various speeds when the car runs at 2600 to 3000 rpm  a low vibration
rattles the car
seemingly from underneath the floorboard.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 21:29:41 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Can I do it myself?
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 00:27:58 -0400
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First a little background.  I have been working on cars most of my life (I
am 24) and consider myself a pretty good mechanic.  I have a one car garage
with a dirt floor (which I plan to concrete very soon) and a good set of
general automotive tools. (metric included)  I just bought a 91 Stealth TT
with 72,000 miles on the odometer and I am not sure if the timing belt was
ever changed.  I do want to change all fluids over to synthetic,add
underdrive pulleys and install a Borla cat-back system.  While I have
everything apart I figure I can inspect the timing belt and determine if the
belt has been changed.  Here come the questions. :-)

1.  Is this something that can be tackled by someone with reasonable
mechanical ability?
2.  Is there any special tools I will need to change the timing belt?
3.  I was told by a tech at Nexus that if the belt was not changed by 72,000
miles, there is a good chance it would have broken by now.  Is this your
experience?
4.  Is the Borla system an easy bolt on, and is it worth changing?  I have
seen some opinions that it really does not help unless you are upgrading
turbo's and fuel system.  I have to admit I would do it anyway just for the
sound.

I think that's enuff for tonight, but I am sure I will have more later. :-)

TIA,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 21:36:48 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: More rotors
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 23:40:31 -0500
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Rich, everyone,

I suggested this awhile back, and it was dismissed.
This is a valid idea, what if your wheel bearings/ hubs were flexing?

My concern is that maybe the hub is flexing causing something to be out of
shape.

The MR2 upgraded their hubs for "steering feel" in 1994, thus telling the
public that the hub/bearing assembly was flexing.

Don't get me wrong, but the rotors could be defective, and most likely are.
I have always believed in looking past the broken part for other things
wrong.
E.G.: Piston ring lands broken = detonation not defective piston etc...

> Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

When I described my experiences snapping PowerSlots to the Porterfield
expert, he suggested that perhaps the rotors were breaking at the hub
because of cornering stresses. Topeka is primarily a left-hand track which
puts most of the stress on the right front wheel, and I did break two
right-hand rotors on two separate occasions, both breaking in the very
first driving session -- one on the 4th lap, one at the end of the first 20
min. session.

It does not matter, however, whether PowerSlots snap because of excessive
heat or cornering stresses. Either way, they are not suitable for open
track events. I don't want to use anything that might break into two pieces
and render my vehicle unbrakable again. The last time was kinda
frightening, when the brakes went at about 100 mph with a tight right
approaching. A long runoff area saved my big butt.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!


.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 21:54:38 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Can I do it myself?
Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 23:52:08 -0500
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> 1.  Is this something that can be tackled by someone with reasonable
> mechanical ability?

Yes!! If you have the time and patience to try. I'm 19, and i consider
myself to have good mechanic ability, but i sure wouldn't say i'm a great
mechanic (you can never know everything and you always learn something new
everyday!). I did my water pump, timing belt and generally cleaned out the
throttle body, intake plenum and intake manifold myself (almost 3 to 4 mm of
carbon buildup in the manifold!!!). I also changed the springs, installed an
alarm and finalized my mp3 comptuer install while i was at it. I can't say
i've ever been able to control my cursing when no one's around (some of the
neighbors may have overheard though). I didn't come across any major
problems. Just hassles along the way. As long as you have your manual by
your side, you _shouldn't_ have any problems. And patience is something you
may already know is required.

> 2.  Is there any special tools I will need to change the timing belt?

Yes, you'll need a tool to tension the timing belt. i believe the part
number is 998767. if you can't find it at any dealer, you can get it
straight from miller special tools 1-800-801-5420.

> 3.  I was told by a tech at Nexus that if the belt was not
> changed by 72,000
> miles, there is a good chance it would have broken by now.  Is this your
> experience?

My car has a hair over 80k miles on it. The timing belt never broke, and i
didn't see any signs of it doing so. My water pump went out, which was the
reason (and excuse) to do the timing belt. There are stories of some
breaking at 50k and others at 120k. I guess it depends on the conditions the
car has been through and how it's been treated/maintaned.

> 4.  Is the Borla system an easy bolt on, and is it worth changing?  I have
> seen some opinions that it really does not help unless you are upgrading
> turbo's and fuel system.  I have to admit I would do it anyway
> just for the
> sound.

Wouldn't know about that. But most people seem to be happy with it. It's a
step in the right direction on the upgrade path ;) Every little bit adds up.

>
> I think that's enuff for tonight, but I am sure I will have more
> later. :-)
>
> TIA,
> Kevin Schappell

Omar
92 r/t


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 22:04:15 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: More rotors
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>I suggested this awhile back, and it was dismissed.
>This is a valid idea, what if your wheel bearings/ hubs were flexing?

How do you check that? We've done the normal grab-the-wheel-and-shake-it
test, and everything seems normal.

Rich/old poop/somebody stop me!


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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: NEW MOTOR---NEW TRANNY----STILL CAR TROUBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 00:10:55 -0500
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Problem 1:  Are you sure the injectors are the correct replacements?  Could
the GTO have had a different set of injectors?
Sounds like you have a  misfire, I would look at plug wires and connections
to your injectors. Sounds like you have a boost leak, or something
misfiring.  Maybe when you replaced the injectors you messed something up?

Look at the Y-pipe gasket, and all the injector insulators, along with all
hose clamps.
Problem2:  problem 1 and 2 are related, see problem 1.

As for 3 & 4.  Something is lose or the tranny is bad. You might check your
rear motor mount also.

> Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


-----Original Message-----
PROBLEM #1
Okay, so I have a California stock 92 Vr-4 with a newly installed 92 GTO
engine.
The car ran fine for 3 weeks, then I had an injection malfuncion.
Replaced the injectors
Since then the car has not ran properly
When I try to boost slowly the car goes kind of okay, BUT when I try to give
it a little horse power the boost cuts out and my exhaust sounds choppy.
Apparently I'm not getting enough fuel pressure or something becaue my car
idles extremely rough.

PROBLEM #2
If I hold my foot on the gas and try to keep it at a constant RPM like  say
1000 or 2000....
the rpm will jump up and down  like from 700 to 1000 back to 700   or 2000
to
1700 back to 2000   etc...... the car idles up and down.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  2 22:09:35 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: More rotors
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 00:13:26 -0500
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I have no clue!  Since the stress on the hub/bearing assembly will be great
with race tires and hard driving I simply don't see how one could check this
theory. I am sure there is a way to mark things and look for stress areas.

> Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

>I suggested this awhile back, and it was dismissed.
>This is a valid idea, what if your wheel bearings/ hubs were flexing?

How do you check that? We've done the normal grab-the-wheel-and-shake-it
test, and everything seems normal.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 04:26:03 1999
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Does anyone have that number for the max amount of material you can have
machined off the flywheel?  I think it was like 0.5 mm or 0.1 mm

Almost there!

Dave


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Subject: Re: Team3S: NEW MOTOR---NEW TRANNY----STILL CAR
TROUBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
References: <e60c6f2b.245e6d48@aol.com>
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MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> PROBLEM #1
> Okay, so I have a California stock 92 Vr-4 with a newly installed 92 GTO
> engine.
> The car ran fine for 3 weeks, then I had an injection malfuncion.
> Replaced the injectors
> Since then the car has not ran properly
> When I try to boost slowly the car goes kind of okay, BUT when I try to give
> it a little horse power the boost cuts out and my exhaust sounds choppy.
> Apparently I'm not getting enough fuel pressure or something becaue my car
> idles extremely rough.
>
> PROBLEM #2
> If I hold my foot on the gas and try to keep it at a constant RPM like  say
> 1000 or 2000....
> the rpm will jump up and down  like from 700 to 1000 back to 700   or 2000 to
> 1700 back to 2000   etc...... the car idles up and down.

Sounds like the Mass Air Sensor wiring harness is not connected or not fully
contacting the mass air sensor.  Check the harness and wires and contacts
on it, you know the thing the airfilter is attached to.  Still, usually the car idles
ok with that harness off.

Maybe the cams are not on the right teeth of cambelt/are out of synch.

Maybe the hose to the fuel pressure regulator is not on or is going to
wrong port on manifold/hose junction.

The fact that it is Japanese engine should not change matters, as you still
have your old stock computer and massair sensor.


>
> PROBLEM#4
> At various speeds when the car runs at 2600 to 3000 rpm  a low vibration
> rattles the car
> seemingly from underneath the floorboard.
>

Maybe bad bearing on one of the driveshafts going to back of car.

Jack Tertadian


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Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors
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I don't think flex of bearings/hub assy is large contributor here.
I have never heard of such a thing being any significant factor,
but that doesn't mean much.  However--
In OUR cars which are designed heavy-duty because they
are heavy and AWD so driving AND braking via front wheels,
it is less likely than some brand X cars.

If true, why does no other brand of rotor do this?
Do the rotors come off as a solid ring, or are they fractured
THROUGH one of those "slots" or grooves in the rotors?
The brake calipers have pistons that are able to move in and
out, if there was a significant force put against them in one
direction (rotor tilting over due to bearing/hub flex)
the pistons would adjust to that force by sliding over the small
distance.
  The force applied by BRAKE pressure is EQUAL on both
sides of the caliper so cancels out, leaving only the net force by
such a proposed "bending of hub assy" as remainder, and the
caliper pots move pretty easily, certainly WAY easier than the
amount of force needed to BREAK OFF a STEEL brake disc
from its hub!!

  Any force applied on-axis to the rotor (BRAKING force)
from caliper should never snap off a good/properly designed
rotor.  Well, never is a long time but Powerslots are WAY off
my list, for ever...
Jack Tertadian


Brad Bedell wrote:

> wheel bearings/ hubs were flexing?
>  maybe hub flexing causing something to be out of shape.
> MR2 upgraded  hubs  in 1994,  telling  public hub/bearing assembly flexing.
>  rotors could be defective, likely are.
>
>  snapping PowerSlots to the Porterfield
> expert, he suggested that perhaps the rotors were breaking at the hub
> because of cornering stresses.
> It does not matter, however, whether PowerSlots snap because of excessive
> heat or cornering stresses. Either way, they are not suitable for open
> track events.
>

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Kevin Schappell wrote:  91 Stealth TT  Timing Belt Change:

> 1.  Is this something that can be tackled by someone with reasonable
> mechanical ability?

Yes, but make sure you line up the teeth/cam sprockets right.  I would
also change the cam tensioner device, some have gone bad after timing
belt change.  Consider changing water pump.

> 2.  Is there any special tools I will need to change the timing belt?

There is timing belt tensioner tool that helps some.

>
> 3.  I was told by Nexus that if belt not changed by 72,000
> there is good chance would have broken by now.

False.  The chances are highly likely it would NOT have broken but would
keep going fine for a long time.  It is just that wear is not same for all cars,
or belts, and 60,000 was the point Mitsu set as "safety time" to change so the
vast majority of cars would have seen NO problems yet.

> 4.  Is the Borla system an easy bolt on, and is it worth changing?  I have
> seen some opinions that it really does not help unless you are upgrading
> turbo's and fuel system.  I have to admit I would do it anyway just for the
> sound.
>

Borla sounds cool.  It helps high rpm hp some, not alot (?1-3mph quartermile) but
the more you modify, the more air you ask exh to carry, the more it will help.  Gutting
main cat helps.

Jack T.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 06:35:43 1999
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From: "Marc Jaffe" <marc@marcjaffe.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <199905030217.TAA21937@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: power dip as soon as car moves for first time
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 09:35:49 -0400
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hey guys,
I have a bizzare problem,   as soon as the car (95 vr4) moves forward or
back a few feet after
starting it, whether the first time or as a test over and over,the power
dips down. the head lights dip and the electrical system
seems to take a dip also. it comes back and is fine the rest of the trip...
Any ideas?
weak battery?
charging system?
some controller?
it almost seems that it is during the diagnostic sequence..
BTW My anti lock break light is on full time due to a faulty motor relay. i
have not had a chance to get to this yet
any connection?
thanx
Marc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 07:07:40 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors
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>Do the rotors come off as a solid ring, or are they fractured
>THROUGH one of those "slots" or grooves in the rotors?

They break cleanly at the hub, leaving two perfect pieces:
a solid ring and a hub, with nary a fracture mark on them.

>Powerslots are WAY off
>my list, for ever...

Amen to that.

Rich/old poop/somebody stop me!
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 07:47:30 1999
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From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 3000GT Service Manual CD
Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 07:47:25 PDT
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I am selling the 3000GT Service Manual CD.  I bought it less than 2 months
ago and now have no use for it.  It was only used once.  No I didn't copy
it.  I am selling it for $25 shipped.  If you are interested please reply
PRIVATELY.

Thanks,
Chris


_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 08:03:38 1999
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From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Gasoline and Injectors
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:03:55 -0400
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Folks,

I've recently been trying to track down some throttle response issues with
my car. I seem to have recently  (within the last couple of weeks) lost some
pick-up. I changed the front 3 plugs a few weeks before that with factory
stock plugs. Also changed the stock air filter.

Just before the pick-up loss, I filled with Sunoco 94 octane, and added some
STP injector cleaner. Since then, I've burned that tank of gas, and am
halfway through a tank of BP 92 octane.
I regularly fill up (for the last 30k miles) with 92 octane BP gas, to try
and stay consistent with what I put in it. Anyways, I was just speaking with
a co-worker who used to work at a Porsche/Audi dealership, and he asked me
what brand of gas I use. When I told him BP, he said that they were
bodily-threatened by the Service Manager at the dealership to never use BP
gas in the cars, as the additional alcohol deteriorates the fuel injector
o-rings , causing them to suck air past the seal. He sited one or two cases
that he has witnessed.

Now, is this an old-wives tale? Is he correct and his old Service Manager
correct? What about the millions of cars running it regulary? I generally
take most word-of-mouth tales with a grain of salt, but it has me thinking
now....

Any input would be appreciated!

-Mike
'93 Stealth ES w/90k

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 08:25:28 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:21:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gasoline and Injectors
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Michael:

>Since then, I've burned that tank of gas, and
>am
>halfway through a tank of BP 92 octane.

<snip>

>he said that they were
>bodily-threatened by the Service Manager at the dealership

I was told this many years ago when still living in Ohio.  I always ran
Sunoco or Shell when I lived there.  BP was and still is a last resort.
I have not had good luck with this product.

Regards,

Scott

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 08:28:22 1999
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When I told him BP, he said that they were
>bodily-threatened by the Service Manager at the dealership to never use BP
>gas in the cars, as the additional alcohol deteriorates the fuel injector
>o-rings , causing them to suck air past the seal. He sited one or two cases
>that he has witnessed. >Now, is this an old-wives tale? Is he correct and
his old Service Manager
>correct? What about the millions of cars running it regulary? I generally
>take most word-of-mouth tales with a grain of salt, but it has me thinking
>now....
>
A few years ago, a fuel injector failed in my 89 Olds Cutlass, and my
mechanic attributed it to using ethanol. He said it eats away the
insulation, and shorts out the injector. It only took one failure to shut
down the engine, but 3 of the 6 injectors were bad.

Rich /old poop/somebody stop me!


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 08:30:58 1999
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From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:29:06 -0700
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>>Do the rotors come off as a solid ring, or are they fractured
>>THROUGH one of those "slots" or grooves in the rotors?
>
>They break cleanly at the hub, leaving two perfect pieces:
>a solid ring and a hub, with nary a fracture mark on them.


Were the rotors returned to the manufacturer?? And if so what was their response?
>From a liability point of view they can't just ignore a failure of that nature. I would
think a carefully worded letter from the law firm of Dewey, Phukm & Howe would
get their attention and force an explanation of the failure.

               Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 09:00:28 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More rotors
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com>
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>
>Were the rotors returned to the manufacturer?? And if so what was their
response?

When I broke the first one, I sent it back. They sent me two new ones (a
left and a right), allegedly from a different batch, and said not to use to
leftover left rotor.

When I broke the second one, I told them I did not trust the rotors any
more, and they said they would refund the original purchase price. I am
waiting, even as we speak, for UPS to come get all three rotors.

I bought them through Foreign Auto Tech in Millbrae, CA, and they have been
very helpful and cooperative. They are the ones who spoke with the
manufacturer. It cost me nothing to send the parts back, because they send
UPS out to get them. Buncha nice guys out there.

>>From a liability point of view they can't just ignore a failure of that
nature. I would
>think a carefully worded letter from the law firm of Dewey, Phukm & Howe
would
>get their attention and force an explanation of the failure.

If I had hit anything when the second rotor broke, I think I would have
whispered a few love words in their corporate ears along the lines of what
you suggest.

Rich/old poop/somebody stop me!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 09:07:40 1999
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From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gasoline and Injectors
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Are you sure you're thinking of ethanol eating parts? I've used it for years
in my cars and never had any problems. When "gasohol" first appeared there
was some stations using ethanol, and others which were using methanol.
Gasohol got a very bad name because the methanol is very hard on parts,
unless the system is designed for it. A 10% ethanol solution is supposed to
be safe, and gets you ~3 points of octane. I also think it's a much better
additive than a lot of the other oxygenating agents they add to gas. There's
one which they use in Colorado in the winter, and also a lot of places in
California. It stinks and also makes cars knock a lot easier. I think it's
called MTBE, but don't remember for sure. I know I'm going to keep using gas
with ethanol, you guys will have to decide for yourselves.

Todd

Merritt wrote:
>
> as the additional alcohol deteriorates the fuel injector
> >o-rings , causing them to suck air past the seal. He sited one or two cases
> >that he has witnessed.
> >
> A few years ago, a fuel injector failed in my 89 Olds Cutlass, and my
> mechanic attributed it to using ethanol. He said it eats away the
> insulation, and shorts out the injector. It only took one failure to shut
> down the engine, but 3 of the 6 injectors were bad.
>
--
Todd Schmalzried                    q11981@email.mot.com
-You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
-Who gets the change? Think about it.  O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 09:19:53 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 12:29:18 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: power dip as soon as car moves for first time
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Hi,

  I have noticed the same thing and finally figured out what it is.
The only difference is that my ABS light is not on.  When the car
moves forward or reverse for the first time after starting it.  The
ABS does a diagnostic on all 4 wheels which requires a lot of current. 
This is what dips the electrical system for about 1 second.  I see
the same thing happen if it's night time and my head lamps are turned
on before moving.  If your ABS light is on, you might have some other
problem, but the electrical dip is normal initally.
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla and K&N FIPK


Marc Jaffe wrote:
>
> hey guys,
> I have a bizzare problem,   as soon as the car (95 vr4) moves forward or
> back a few feet after
> starting it, whether the first time or as a test over and over,the power
> dips down. the head lights dip and the electrical system
> seems to take a dip also. it comes back and is fine the rest of the trip...
> Any ideas?
> weak battery?
> charging system?
> some controller?
> it almost seems that it is during the diagnostic sequence..
> BTW My anti lock break light is on full time due to a faulty motor relay. i
> have not had a chance to get to this yet
> any connection?
> thanx
> Marc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 09:52:29 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:41:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gasoline and Injectors
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Todd:

>A 10% ethanol solution is
>supposed to
>be safe, and gets you ~3 points of octane. I also think it's a much
>better
>additive than a lot of the other oxygenating agents they add to gas.

<snip>

>I think
>it's
>called MTBE

Our owner's manual warns not to use gasoline with this form of petroleum
based additive in it.  Here in Milwaukee, that's Amoco Ultimate.   Our
local governing body determined it's just too polluted here, so we are
required to use what is termed "reformulated" gasoline.  It's crap.  I
run Techron through the system every quarter to stay on top of it.
However, my VR4 ran markedly better with Mobil gasoline that uses Ethanol
versus the Amoco and MTBE.

Regards,

Scott
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 09:59:21 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: ACT clutch problem
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:01:47 -0500
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Hey everyone,

I've got a question about the ACT clutch I bought for my 95 R/T TT.  I'm
having my dealer do the install right now.  I just got off the phone with
the dealer who says the tech that is installing the clutch doesn't think the
plate is designed well.  He says there is 16 rivits put into one side and
only 2 on the other side.  I am not a clutch expert so I'm not sure what
that means.  I need some emergency advice from anyone who has an ACT clutch
or knows about clutches in general.  Is this the way it is suppose to be
designed or maybe the plate is defective.  I might give ACT a call to, but I
want to shoot the question out to you guys too.  Please e-mail me privatly
with your wisdom, and hurry.  I've got to make a decsion in the next two
hours.

Thanks,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 10:25:38 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW: ACT clutch problem
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:27:59 -0500
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O.K.  Nevermind my last e-mail.  I just talked to the ACT tech support.
Sounds like they missed some rivits on the disk (not the plate like I
mentioned below)  So ACT is going to overnight a new disk to the dealership.
Kudos to the tech at Wayzata Mitsu that noticed the defect and kudos to the
nice tech support people at ACT.  So if your in midstream on typing me out
and e-mail, you don't have to now.  :)

Thanks guys!!
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gendron, Curt
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 12:02 PM
> To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
> Subject: ACT clutch problem
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I've got a question about the ACT clutch I bought for my 95 R/T TT.  I'm
> having my dealer do the install right now.  I just got off the phone with
> the dealer who says the tech that is installing the clutch doesn't think
> the plate is designed well.  He says there is 16 rivits put into one side
> and only 2 on the other side.  I am not a clutch expert so I'm not sure
> what that means.  I need some emergency advice from anyone who has an ACT
> clutch or knows about clutches in general.  Is this the way it is suppose
> to be designed or maybe the plate is defective.  I might give ACT a call
> to, but I want to shoot the question out to you guys too.  Please e-mail
> me privatly with your wisdom, and hurry.  I've got to make a decsion in
> the next two hours.
>
> Thanks,
> Curt G
> 95 R/T TT
> and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 11:45:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 13:36:13 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gasoline and Injectors
In-Reply-To: <372DCA00.BC1C9A71@email.mot.com>
References: <004701be91bd$9c8ec000$9a253ccc@acarberry.snet.net>
<3.0.3.32.19990503102727.006bb2b8@cedar-rapids.net>
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At 11:08 AM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Are you sure you're thinking of ethanol eating parts?

Here in Iowa, it's ethanol, and it's made from corn.

I remember goin' to school in Alabama, where they made white lightning from
corn.
In fact, up on Sand Mountain, outside of Huntsville, they would measure the
corn yield in gallons per acre, not in bushels.

Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 13:11:55 1999
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Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:10:32 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Stock head flow rates
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Does anybody have a set of stock head flow numbers for VR-4? any year will do.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 13:23:16 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock head flow rates
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 15:26:51 -0500
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Reprinted without permission :)

Valve Intake Exhaust
lift
0.100" 86 80
0.200" 165 164
0.300" 230 191
0.400" 246 195
0.500" 249 196
0.600" 251 196

> Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:11 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Stock head flow rates

Does anybody have a set of stock head flow numbers for VR-4? any year will
do.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 14:00:47 1999
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Message-Id: <199905032105.OAA08303@cyclops.hyperdream.com>
Subject: Team3S: Problems with my Getrag
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:05:48 -0700 (PDT)
From: Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com
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Hi all.

I have the dreaded worn output shaft problem on my Stealth AWD transmission.
My warranty company did not want to pay for a new transmission and transfer
case.  Instead, they approved my mechanic to buy the parts from a San Diego
shop called MD Auto.  Their address is 6460 85 Convoy Court, San Diego,
California.  Phone number is (619)390-0450.  I was told that they fix
Stealth/VR-4 Getrags all the time.

After hearing all the problems with locating Getrag parts, is it possible
that we just sent our money to a shop that doesn't have the correct parts?
I'm quite skeptical that they would have it when no one else (except Kormex)
would have it.

If someone living in San Diego is interested in confirming that this shop
fixes 3S Getrags all the time and has the right parts, or if someone knows
anything about this shop, please let me know.

Thanks,
Sam.
3SI Member #0269

--
Sam_Wong at hyperdream.com | http://www.hyperdream.com/~samw
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 14:09:02 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 16:08:15 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems with my Getrag
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At 02:05 PM 5/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all.
>
>I have the dreaded worn output shaft problem on my Stealth AWD transmission.
>My warranty company did not want to pay for a new transmission and transfer
>case.  Instead, they approved my mechanic to buy the parts from a San Diego
>shop called MD Auto. 

They will learn. My warranty company wanted to take my car to AAMCO to get
the Getrag fixed.
"They fix those transmissions all the time, " they said.
Yeah, right. Ask MD Auto to order the parts first. See how far they get.
When MD Auto comes back and admits they can't get the parts and don't fix
OUR transmissions, then the warranty company will have to go to the dealer,
like mine did.

The neat thing about getting a new tranny is that it comes with a 12-month
warranty on top of the extended warranty.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 15:02:15 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: "pro" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: starnet
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:02:12 -0500
Message-ID: <000001be95b0$98c40b00$0a01000a@smartworld.net>
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FYI, those of you that subscribed to starnet may know it has gone down. if
anyone is interested, a new list has been created to replace it at
http://3000gt_stealth.listbot.com.

Omar
92 r/t


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 15:48:07 1999
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Message-ID: <003c01be95b6$b6126d40$548d87d1@bdavis>
From: "Bill Davis" <wjdavis@inlink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <199905032105.OAA08303@cyclops.hyperdream.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems with my Getrag
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:45:56 -0500
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Sam,

Not to be too negative, but I think if there were a shop
anywhere on this continent that fixed 6 speed Getrags
"ALL THE TIME", we would know about it.
Tell them to get the parts first.

Bill Davis 95 VR-4

----- Original Message -----
From: <Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 4:05 PM
Subject: Team3S: Problems with my Getrag


> Hi all.
>
> I have the dreaded worn output shaft problem on my Stealth AWD
transmission.
> My warranty company did not want to pay for a new transmission and
transfer
> case.  Instead, they approved my mechanic to buy the parts from a San
Diego
> shop called MD Auto.  Their address is 6460 85 Convoy Court, San Diego,
> California.  Phone number is (619)390-0450.  I was told that they fix
> Stealth/VR-4 Getrags all the time.
>
> After hearing all the problems with locating Getrag parts, is it possible
> that we just sent our money to a shop that doesn't have the correct parts?
> I'm quite skeptical that they would have it when no one else (except
Kormex)
> would have it.
>
> If someone living in San Diego is interested in confirming that this shop
> fixes 3S Getrags all the time and has the right parts, or if someone knows
> anything about this shop, please let me know.
>
> Thanks,
> Sam.
> 3SI Member #0269
>
> --
> Sam_Wong at hyperdream.com | http://www.hyperdream.com/~samw
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 15:57:45 1999
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Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:57:45 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Division
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Subject: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com wrote:
>
> Hi all.
>
> I have the dreaded worn output shaft problem on my Stealth AWD transmission.
> My warranty company did not want to pay for a new transmission and transfer
> case.  Instead, they approved my mechanic to buy the parts from a San Diego
> shop called MD Auto.  Their address is 6460 85 Convoy Court, San Diego,
> California.  Phone number is (619)390-0450.  I was told that they fix
> Stealth/VR-4 Getrags all the time.
>
> After hearing all the problems with locating Getrag parts, is it possible
> that we just sent our money to a shop that doesn't have the correct parts?
> I'm quite skeptical that they would have it when no one else (except Kormex)
> would have it.
>
> If someone living in San Diego is interested in confirming that this shop
> fixes 3S Getrags all the time and has the right parts, or if someone knows
> anything about this shop, please let me know.

I just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto.  This is for real.  He
has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years.  He said a lot of Mitsu
& Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies know about him and
use him.

Prices:
$2695 for rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case, I didn't ask for
seperate prices
  $500 core charge
~$200 round trip shipping to Atlantic coast

He uses new parts.  Although he wouldn't devulge his sources, he did say
they use new bearings (I forgot the name but they're from France).  They
use new synchro's although they only replace the bad ones, they use
Mitsu seals, they also do the 18 or 25 spline shafts.  He said that you
cannot replace a small 18 spline shaft with the larger 25 spline shaft
since the hole in the case is a different size.  I forgot to ask if the
shafts they use are of better quality than the original.  I also didn't
ask if they just sell parts.

Shipping takes two boxes because of weight.  He said tranny alone is
about 120 lbs.  They use UPS.  They put the tranny in a plastic bag, put
it in a box, then fill the box with foam.  You are supposed to send back
the cores in the same boxes.

He is faxing me some literature as I write this.  Send me your questions
and I'll phone him again soon.

Ken,

P.S.  Sam, it looks like your warranty company is instructing your
mechanic to buy the rebuilt parts and he will just do the removal &
re-installation.

--
How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 16:11:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 01:10:09 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Organization: Behind the frontier
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
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> Although it will make hardly any difference, consider painting both the
> rotor and caliper flat black. As we all know, black radiates more heat then
> does yellow or red or silver.

Check out the rotors and you'll see that there is only a little surface you can
paint unless you considered painting the rotors surface (gulp). Also the area of
the calipers is too small to transfer heat.

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 16:11:21 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Can I do it myself?
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> > 1.  Is this something that can be tackled by someone with reasonable
> > mechanical ability?

You must be familiar with the timing on our cars to avoid any mistake and big
problems due to an error.

> > 3.  I was told by a tech at Nexus that if the belt was not
> > changed by 72,000 miles, there is a good chance it would have broken by now.

60k is what Mitsu says it's the min. livetime of the belt. If it breaks at 61k
you're too late :(

> My car has a hair over 80k miles on it. The timing belt never broke, and i
> didn't see any signs of it doing so.

No, you'll probably see only the signs after it broke. It's like playing russian
roulette :) The longer you drive the more the chance that it brakes.

> > 4.  Is the Borla system an easy bolt on, and is it worth changing?

Easy bolt on yes, but not worth changing.

> > I have seen some opinions that it really does not help unless you are
> > upgrading turbo's and fuel system. I have to admit I would do it anyway
> > just for the sound.

True facts on my webpage (dyno sessions). The exhaust does only help in the
higher rpm if any and you'll loose some power in the lower band. It sounds good
around 4000 and more but is damn annyoing when crusing around between 2000 and
3000. The problems are the mufflers that are way too small. I started to hate it
!

> Wouldn't know about that. But most people seem to be happy with it. It's a
> step in the right direction on the upgrade path ;)Every little bit adds up

No ! The exhaust is the wrong path. You will do a lot mods and spending $$$
before doing the exhaust.
This is fact ! Even more without a boost controller changing the exhaust will
give you more loss in the low end.
The correct path is : filter, boost controller, regapping plugs, fuel pump,
injectors, A/F controller, turbos, exhaust, intercooler, and more. Gutting the
pre-cats does help more than any exhaust.

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 17:37:02 1999
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References: <199905032105.OAA08303@cyclops.hyperdream.com> <372E29E9.C7829679@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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maybe this guy could build us a better tranny that fit stock specs, but that
wouldn't break as much --- special metals.... titanium/carbon fiber... etc


----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>; The Browns <mabs@cts.com>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 5:57 PM
Subject: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **


> Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com wrote:
> >
> > Hi all.
> >
> > I have the dreaded worn output shaft problem on my Stealth AWD
transmission.
> > My warranty company did not want to pay for a new transmission and
transfer
> > case.  Instead, they approved my mechanic to buy the parts from a San
Diego
> > shop called MD Auto.  Their address is 6460 85 Convoy Court, San Diego,
> > California.  Phone number is (619)390-0450.  I was told that they fix
> > Stealth/VR-4 Getrags all the time.
> >
> > After hearing all the problems with locating Getrag parts, is it
possible
> > that we just sent our money to a shop that doesn't have the correct
parts?
> > I'm quite skeptical that they would have it when no one else (except
Kormex)
> > would have it.
> >
> > If someone living in San Diego is interested in confirming that this
shop
> > fixes 3S Getrags all the time and has the right parts, or if someone
knows
> > anything about this shop, please let me know.
>
> I just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto.  This is for real.  He
> has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years.  He said a lot of Mitsu
> & Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies know about him and
> use him.
>
> Prices:
> $2695 for rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case, I didn't ask for
> seperate prices
>   $500 core charge
> ~$200 round trip shipping to Atlantic coast
>
> He uses new parts.  Although he wouldn't devulge his sources, he did say
> they use new bearings (I forgot the name but they're from France).  They
> use new synchro's although they only replace the bad ones, they use
> Mitsu seals, they also do the 18 or 25 spline shafts.  He said that you
> cannot replace a small 18 spline shaft with the larger 25 spline shaft
> since the hole in the case is a different size.  I forgot to ask if the
> shafts they use are of better quality than the original.  I also didn't
> ask if they just sell parts.
>
> Shipping takes two boxes because of weight.  He said tranny alone is
> about 120 lbs.  They use UPS.  They put the tranny in a plastic bag, put
> it in a box, then fill the box with foam.  You are supposed to send back
> the cores in the same boxes.
>
> He is faxing me some literature as I write this.  Send me your questions
> and I'll phone him again soon.
>
> Ken,
>
> P.S.  Sam, it looks like your warranty company is instructing your
> mechanic to buy the rebuilt parts and he will just do the removal &
> re-installation.
>
> --
> How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!
>
> Ken Middaugh
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> (619) 455-4510
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 19:21:58 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 21:21:59 -0500
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> Check out the rotors and you'll see that there is only a little
> surface you can
> paint unless you considered painting the rotors surface (gulp).
> Also the area of
> the calipers is too small to transfer heat.

just brainstorming ;)
i thought the rotor discs are sort of "hollow" from the inside to help air
carry heat away?
couldn't the inside surfaces of the rotor be painted? (in the middle of the
actual disc, between the braking surfaces. At least that's what i thought it
looked like last time i had my wheel off. I could be wrong. please let me
know if i am.

diagraphical (is that a word?) aid:
rotor as seen from straight ahead, simplified:

  ||
  ||
  ||
  \/
__  __
||  ||
||  ||
||__||
||--||
||  ||
||__||
||--||
||  ||
||__||
||--||
||  ||
||  ||
--  --


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 21:13:34 1999
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Well, I can't give you a definitive answer on the formulation of BP
fuel but I can offer my seat of the pants experience.

In the KY & Ohio area we have limited quality fuel choices. In KY we
have what's fondly called reformulated fuel for pollution reasons. BP
is the major player here. Over the past four cars I drive and the
common ones we own I find Shell to be the poorest excuse for gas
available from the big manufacturers. Poor mileage, mediocre
performance, and plug build up.
BP may be OK for the family truckster, but both my 93SL and 96 VR4
aren't happy with it. Again poor mileage and marginal performance
consistency. Haven't pulled the plugs in the VR4 yet.

The Sunoco runs consistently better, I see very little soot blowing
out when I hit the power which I did see with a tank of BP. It costs
more but I don't see much other alternative. Only other players are
Marathon and Citco.

Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 21:14:04 1999
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Mikael Åkesson wrote:

> >1994 Mitsu VR4  with K&N, bleeder valve, gutted maincat, VPC/GCC, 720cc injectors (I had them laying around :)
> >12.386 @ 108.19mph...best mph 109.50.   Full interior except spare and jack.  Geez.
>
> It would be interesting to know how much the 720 injectors did. Do you have any idea about what dutycycle they where on during WOT? I guess that they where far away from maxing out.

Nope no idea.

> I would also like to know more about the GCC, is it an ignition controller or is it just an aoption to the VPC?

It is fuel adjustment in several rpm bands, like AFC.  Hooks up to VPC with one connector.

(oops some old messages have gone unanswered...)
Jack

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 21:45:41 1999
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I had spoken to MD Auto in my quest to find parts.  He had everything, but the synchros and WOULD NOT SELL THEM, if he had them.  For those of us who need just the synchros, I guess the SEARCH GOES ON - any more leads out there.

--

On Mon, 3 May 1999 19:31:12    CEnder (Chris Chiasson) wrote:
>maybe this guy could build us a better tranny that fit stock specs, but that
>wouldn't break as much --- special metals.... titanium/carbon fiber... etc
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>; The Browns <mabs@cts.com>
>Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 5:57 PM
>Subject: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
>
>
>> Sam_Wong@hyperdream.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi all.
>> >
>> > I have the dreaded worn output shaft problem on my Stealth AWD
>transmission.
>> > My warranty company did not want to pay for a new transmission and
>transfer
>> > case.  Instead, they approved my mechanic to buy the parts from a San
>Diego
>> > shop called MD Auto.  Their address is 6460 85 Convoy Court, San Diego,
>> > California.  Phone number is (619)390-0450.  I was told that they fix
>> > Stealth/VR-4 Getrags all the time.
>> >
>> > After hearing all the problems with locating Getrag parts, is it
>possible
>> > that we just sent our money to a shop that doesn't have the correct
>parts?
>> > I'm quite skeptical that they would have it when no one else (except
>Kormex)
>> > would have it.
>> >
>> > If someone living in San Diego is interested in confirming that this
>shop
>> > fixes 3S Getrags all the time and has the right parts, or if someone
>knows
>> > anything about this shop, please let me know.
>>
>> I just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto.  This is for real.  He
>> has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years.  He said a lot of Mitsu
>> & Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies know about him and
>> use him.
>>
>> Prices:
>> $2695 for rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case, I didn't ask for
>> seperate prices
>>   $500 core charge
>> ~$200 round trip shipping to Atlantic coast
>>
>> He uses new parts.  Although he wouldn't devulge his sources, he did say
>> they use new bearings (I forgot the name but they're from France).  They
>> use new synchro's although they only replace the bad ones, they use
>> Mitsu seals, they also do the 18 or 25 spline shafts.  He said that you
>> cannot replace a small 18 spline shaft with the larger 25 spline shaft
>> since the hole in the case is a different size.  I forgot to ask if the
>> shafts they use are of better quality than the original.  I also didn't
>> ask if they just sell parts.
>>
>> Shipping takes two boxes because of weight.  He said tranny alone is
>> about 120 lbs.  They use UPS.  They put the tranny in a plastic bag, put
>> it in a box, then fill the box with foam.  You are supposed to send back
>> the cores in the same boxes.
>>
>> He is faxing me some literature as I write this.  Send me your questions
>> and I'll phone him again soon.
>>
>> Ken,
>>
>> P.S.  Sam, it looks like your warranty company is instructing your
>> mechanic to buy the rebuilt parts and he will just do the removal &
>> re-installation.
>>
>> --
>> How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!
>>
>> Ken Middaugh
>> General Atomics
>> San Diego
>> (619) 455-4510
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May  3 22:27:03 1999
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Subject: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com> wrote:

>I just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto.  This is for real.  He
>has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years.  He said a lot of Mitsu
>& Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies know about him and
>use him.

Hi Ken.

Wow.  They've been doing it for 4 years, yet no one from our group has known
about them?  I sure hope this is for real.


>since the hole in the case is a different size.  I forgot to ask if the
>shafts they use are of better quality than the original.  I also didn't
>ask if they just sell parts.

Well, I am interested in finding out whether or not those shafts are factory
parts or after-market.  If they're after-market, I too would like to know if
they are better quality than the factory.  Of course, the shop would claim
that they are.  But how can we really find out?  I really hate to be a guinea
pig.


>He is faxing me some literature as I write this.  Send me your questions
>and I'll phone him again soon.

I think it would help a lot of us if we could get a scan of the literature
onto the 3si website.


>P.S.  Sam, it looks like your warranty company is instructing your
>mechanic to buy the rebuilt parts and he will just do the removal &
>re-installation.

Actually, my mechanic told me that he only got approval to purchase the
shaft and sleeve, not for the entire transmission/transfer case.  At this
time, he hasn't opened up the transmission yet so we do not know if we'll
need new synchros as well.  He has already sent money to MD Auto for the
parts.

Thanks for looking into this Ken.  Let us know what else you find.

Sincerely,
Sam.

--
Sam_Wong at hyperdream.com | http://www.hyperdream.com/~samw
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 07:23:03 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 10:22:23 EDT
Subject: Team3S: New Virus
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Guys, this was fowarded to me. I have very little computer knowledge so I
hope this is worthwhile information and 4 real.
Arty 91 VR-4

PASS THIS ON TO ANYONE YOU HAVE AN E-MAIL ADDRESS FOR. IT IS REAL AND
>NOT A JOKE:
>
>If you receive an email titled "It Takes Guts to Say 'Jesus'  DO NOT
>OPEN IT.  It will erase everything on your hard drive. This
>information was announced yesterday morning from IBM; AOL states that
>this is a very dangerous virus, much worse than "Melissa", and that
>there is NO remedy for it at this time.
>
>Some very sick individual has succeeded in using the re-format
>function from Norton Utilities causing it to completely erase all
>documents on the hard drive. It has been designed to work with
>Netscape Navigator and Microsoft Internet Explorer. It destroys
>MacIntosh and IBM compatible computers.
>
>This is a new, very malicious virus and not many people know about
>it. Pass this warning along to EVERYONE in your address book and
>please share it with all your online friends ASAP so that this threat
>may be stopped.
>
>Please practice cautionary measures and tell anyone that may have
>access to your computer.
>
>Forward this warning to everyone that might access the internet.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 08:06:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 11:05:35 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New Virus
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Arty,

This a hoax that has resurfaced. I don't think this kind of thing is
allowed on the list even if it were real.  Here is a website to check
out these kinds of things on:

http://snopes.simplenet.com/spoons/spoons.htm#spoons

Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 08:16:06 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: New Virus
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:15:21 -0700
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Thanks for the update, Lynn; you are correct on both counts-- it IS
an old hoax, and

IT IS NOT ALLOWED (nor are corrections, either).   From the rules:

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
05.  Urban Legend Stories and Virus Warnings. Do not post these to
the
list.  These are stories that have been floating around for years,
and
we're all sick of hearing about them.  If you have a Virus Warning
you
feel is legitimate, send it to the admin and ask for it to be
reviewed.
If the administrator feels a warning is appropriate, WE will issue
the
warning.  Anyone who posts a virus warning to the list will be
banned
permanently without warning.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Do not EVER send these (or comments about them) to the list!

Thanks,

Forrest
Admin, Team3S

-----Original Message-----From: William Lynn Larsen
<wlarsen@ibm.net>

|Arty,
|
|This a hoax that has resurfaced. I don't think this kind of thing
is
|allowed on the list even if it were real.  Here is a website to
check
|out these kinds of things on:
|
|http://snopes.simplenet.com/spoons/spoons.htm#spoons







For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 09:04:39 1999
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It's bunk, it has been another net rumor floating around.  Probably by someone trying to
Anti-Spam a religious organization.  I have run across this danged thing 3 times
already.  Just look at the wording, it was written in High School level english.  It
came from IBM?  IBM is announcing virus detection now?  It's much more dangerous than
Melissa, but you don't hear about it on the 6 O'clock news??? Yeah, It's pretty safe to
say this is bunk.  Not to mention that you would have to execute an application in order
to run the virus, not just open the email.  Opening an email is a passive operation, you
have to actively open something contained in the email.  Although some things could be
done with Java, or Active X.  I will say of 99% ashurity this is BS.  There is no such
thing as a virus that cannot be removed... NO SUCH THING.. there is no software problem
that FDISK cannot solve a little saying from tech school.


Aso8@aol.com wrote:

> Guys, this was fowarded to me. I have very little computer knowledge so I
> hope this is worthwhile information and 4 real.

-snip-
--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 09:23:30 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:21:41 -0700
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>
>Ken Middaugh
>
>>I just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto.  This is for real.  He
>>has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years.  He said a lot of Mitsu
>>& Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies know about him and use
him.
>

I'm a little confused --- does he do an exchange or does he rebuild your
trans.
Could get time consuming for East coast folk !!  If your syncros are shot
along
with other problems then he just fixes the half of the job he can handle ???

                    Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 10:21:36 1999
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Drag racing
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 19:14:13 +0200
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Hi

I will do some some drag racing during the summer and I wonder what's the difference between bracket racing and "normal" racing?

/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 10:26:23 1999
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From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
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Message-ID: <43a53b8d.24608780@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 13:25:20 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I was just wondering if there are any opinions/info on which synthetic oil 
is  better.
Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1
I switched to Castrol Syntec a while back..........and I have noticed my oil
pressure stays 
lower, especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a mark or two
above the L!!!
When driving the needle stays at the first BIG mark and never goes above
it......even when  boost is applied.                  Is this
normal??????????  Thanks guys
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 10:42:49 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Drag racing
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 13:38:27 -0400
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Regular drag racing - The fastest wins

Bracket Racing - You dial-in by telling the officials what you think your
car will run. (by writing it on the side window of the car)  Then you are
handicapped if you are faster than the person you are racing or given a
head start if you are slower.  Then the person who gets to the finish line
first without going under his or her dial in-time wins.  When you go under
your time it's called breaking out.  This allows more competitive racing
between a wide variety of cars.  Theoretically if I was a good enuff driver
I could beat a door slammer in a 72 Ford Pinto.

Hope it helps,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Akesson [SMTP:vr4@bahnhof.se]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:14 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Drag racing

Hi

I will do some some drag racing during the summer and I wonder what's the
difference between bracket racing and "normal" racing?

/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 10:47:23 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 10:47:08 -0700
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MitsuVR41...

Questions: What weight Castrol are you using? Ambient temperature?

Comments...when we did a survey some months ago, of those using synthetic
(92% of those who responded), the majority (~70%) are using Mobil 1. I've
been using Castrol 5-50w for over two years and have been satisfied with it.
However, something sounds odd about your oil pressure indications (which is
why I asked about the weight). When I'm at idle, the gauge reads just below
the lower of the two large lines. When I'm running anything above 2K rpm,
it's nearly at the higher of the two large marks and stays there, regardless
of throttle position.

I wish we had real gauges (with psi markings), for all I know, the oil
pressure gauge is as unreliable as the boost gauge.   :-(

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)

-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 10:25 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue


I was just wondering if there are any opinions/info on which synthetic oil 
is  better.
Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1
I switched to Castrol Syntec a while back..........and I have noticed my oil

pressure stays 
lower, especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a mark or two
above the L!!!
When driving the needle stays at the first BIG mark and never goes above
it......even when  boost is applied.                  Is this
normal??????????  Thanks guys
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 10:56:28 1999
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Bracket racing is based mostly on consistency since you are placed in a class with people running similar times.

It's not a competition for the fastest time, the fastest time with people who run the same times?  Am in confusing this too much?

Mikael Åkesson wrote:

> Hi
>
> I will do some some drag racing during the summer and I wonder what's the difference between bracket racing and "normal" racing?
>
> /Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 11:11:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 14:07:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drag racing
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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A Drag race = the fastest time wins.
A Bracket race = the one closest to the time he says he will run wins.
Example 2 cars, car 1 says he will run 12.5 he runs 12.4
                         car 2 says he will run 12.5 he runs 12.00
Car 1 wins. He is closer to his selected time.
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 5/4/99 10:23:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, vr4@bahnhof.se
writes:

<< Subj: Team3S: Drag racing
Date: 5/4/99 10:23:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: vr4@bahnhof.se (Mikael_Åkessonerve.com>)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com

Hi

I will do some some drag racing during the summer and I wonder what's the
difference between bracket racing and "normal" racing?

/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 12:30:34 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
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MitsuVR41,

I have been using Syntec 5W-50 since I bought the car and have noticed
exactly what you are talking about.  However, get out on the interstate
in the summer with the air on and you will see the pressure keep rising
for about the first 15 miles or so and it will get (on my gauge) within
1-2 lines of the top mark. The first winter I spent in Raleigh, '96, was
exceptionally cold and I got so worried because my oil pressure would
barely get above the low normal that I switched to Castrol 20-50, which
I use in everything else and I also noted a lot more valve noise.

I am about to switch to Mobil 1 because the concensus seems to be that
the valve noise is less with it.  Also, about a month ago there was a
URL given to very extensive oil filter study and it gave the Mobil 1 oil
filter very good marks.  So, I figured I'd switch to the oil and the
filter.

Regards,
Lynn

MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> I was just wondering if there are any opinions/info on which synthetic oil
> is  better.
> Castrol Syntec or Mobil 1
> I switched to Castrol Syntec a while back..........and I have noticed my oil
> pressure stays
> lower, especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a mark or two
> above the L!!!
> When driving the needle stays at the first BIG mark and never goes above
> it......even when  boost is applied.                  Is this
> normal??????????  Thanks guys
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 13:23:32 1999
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From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 16:25:25 -0400
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I'm going to race for the first time this Friday.  From what I've been
reading here, I should be able to get a higher octane fuel at the track?  If
so, should I be able to increase my boost while running a higher octane gas?


Michael
K&N Intake/Borla Exhaust/Blitz DSBC

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 13:23:36 1999
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From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 16:20:52 -0400
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> However, something sounds odd about your oil pressure
> indications (which is
> why I asked about the weight). When I'm at idle, the gauge
> reads just below
> the lower of the two large lines. When I'm running anything
> above 2K rpm,
> it's nearly at the higher of the two large marks and stays
> there, regardless
> of throttle position.

I'm also using Castrol Synthetic, 10W30 and notice my gauge being near the
bottom at idle, and just above the bottom of the two large marks when
driving.

Michael

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 13:33:26 1999
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
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Michael...

All depends on the track. There's two 1/4 strips here in the Portland
(Oregon) area, neither one carries race gas.

However, there's two places in town that do carry race gas. FYI, the
unleaded (104 octane) is $4.75/gallon, the leaded (110 octane) is
$525/gallon. If you run your tank almost dry and put five gallons (unleaded
only if you haven't removed all three cats), you should be able to run the
boost up to 20 psi w/o risking damage to your engine. However, if you still
have stock turbos, you won't hold that boost at higher revs.

GOOD LUCK, let us know how the runs go!!!

BTW...I'd be curious to know what others are paying for race gas, along with
octane and your location.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Dorsey [mailto:mdorsey@mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel

I'm going to race for the first time this Friday.  From what I've been
reading here, I should be able to get a higher octane fuel at the track?  If
so, should I be able to increase my boost while running a higher octane gas?

Michael
K&N Intake/Borla Exhaust/Blitz DSBC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 13:43:56 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
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Some weird things my VR-4 does I wonder if anyone elses does

Prime gas mileage speed seems to be aroun 92 mph

I got 32 mpg going from St. George, to Salt Lake city, at 92 mph cruise control

Around the city if I am on the gas I can burn a 1/4 of a tank just from going to to work
and back, and lunch prboably around 24 miles

Is this normal

When going very fast.  Full throttle continuously.  I can burn a 1/8 tank in 5 or 6
miles  So at 160 mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg?  That is nuts anyone else with this problem
or si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate

Only mod I have is a bleeder valve, and cut up air box 275 mm tires rear.  38psi Front
and 32 Rear


--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 13:49:43 1999
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Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 15:48:43 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
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>
>BTW...I'd be curious to know what others are paying for race gas, along with
>octane and your location.

At Heartland Park, Topeka, we have three choices. The cheapest is 102
octane at $4+  per gallon. The others were more expensive.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 14:17:36 1999
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All sounds normal to me.

Stop and go with a 2 ton car requires plenty of power, which in turn
uses plenty of gas.

Having the momentum already there and having minimal change in engine
speed at 5th/6th gear at 92mph should yield very good MPG.

As for 160, that's just a different ball game. The upper end of  the
engines power...although 2mpg seems to be a lot of gas, it doesn't
surprise me.

Gavin

>>> Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com> 05/04/99 04:36pm >>>
Some weird things my VR-4 does I wonder if anyone elses does

Prime gas mileage speed seems to be aroun 92 mph

I got 32 mpg going from St. George, to Salt Lake city, at 92 mph cruise
control

Around the city if I am on the gas I can burn a 1/4 of a tank just from
going to to work
and back, and lunch prboably around 24 miles

Is this normal

When going very fast.  Full throttle continuously.  I can burn a 1/8 tank in
5 or 6
miles  So at 160 mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg?  That is nuts anyone else
with this problem
or si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate

Only mod I have is a bleeder valve, and cut up air box 275 mm tires rear.
38psi Front
and 32 Rear


--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 14:24:57 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
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Andrew...

I think either your speedo is wildly inaccurate, or your calculations. I
keep pretty careful track of my mileage. Before I changed my turbos and
injectors I consistently got between 12 and 14 mpg in the city (with a fair
amount of WOT). On the highway, with speeds of up to 140+ mph, I get around
17 or 18 mpg. On a trip to the Bay area this January, I actually used the
cruise control at 85 mph in sixth gear and checked my mileage after a half
tank of gas. It was 22 mpg, an all time high. I doubt that it's possible to
get 32 mpg out of a VR4, under any speed, on flat terrain.

Check for loose mechanical connections, and/or check your math.

BTW...could you give me the complete size of the tires (275/xx-18 or
275/xx-17) on your VR4? What brand? Any clearance problems?

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)

-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Brilliant [mailto:andrewb@infowest.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:36 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Gas mileage Question

Some weird things my VR-4 does I wonder if anyone elses does

Prime gas mileage speed seems to be aroun 92 mph

I got 32 mpg going from St. George, to Salt Lake city, at 92 mph cruise
control

Around the city if I am on the gas I can burn a 1/4 of a tank just from
going to to work
and back, and lunch prboably around 24 miles

Is this normal

When going very fast.  Full throttle continuously.  I can burn a 1/8 tank in
5 or 6
miles  So at 160 mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg?  That is nuts anyone else with
this problem
or si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate

Only mod I have is a bleeder valve, and cut up air box 275 mm tires rear.
38psi Front
and 32 Rear


--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 14:26:13 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
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>When going very fast.  Full throttle continuously.  I can burn a 1/8 tank
in 5 or 6
>miles  So at 160 mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg?  That is nuts anyone else
with this problem
>or si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate


On an open track, I burn a quarter tank in a 20 minute session.
It goes down so fast, I almost ran out of gas once.
I guess we run about a 75-80 mph average, because a 2.25 mile lap takes
about 1:50 or so.
Let's see, at 80 mph that's 0.75 min./mile for 20 min., or about 27 miles.
A quarter tank is -- what? 4 gallons?
So that's about 6.75 mpg.
Glad I just use 92 octane and not racing gas. 

Rich/old poop/somebody stop me!


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 14:33:38 1999
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On May 04, Chris Winkley said:
> Andrew...
>
> I think either your speedo is wildly inaccurate, or your calculations. I

Hm...
        If he spent 1/8 tank to traverse 6 miles doing 160mph, that's 2.475
        gallons to drive for 0.0375hr, or 66gph (isn't this the spec. for the
        stock fuel pump?)

> I doubt that it's possible to get 32 mpg out of a VR4, under any speed, on
> flat terrain.

I think it was Bob Fontana who stated that he noticed much better mileage
after installing the VPC (upper 20s, but I don't think it was 32mgp tho.)

-sankar

--
*******************************************************************************
Troi: "It's not like Data to be secretive."
Wesley: "And cautious.  He's got that lab locked every minute."
LaForge: "Now how do you know that?"
--Troi, Wesley, and LaForge, "The Offspring", Stardate 43
*******************************************************************************
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
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As for the calculations I can tell you exactly what happend..

Gas was about 94cents/gallon back then but listen to what happend

$10 in the tank.  So roughly 10 gallons, car had the gas light on

Traveled 312 Miles to donw town SLC (the olive garden) from St. George BLVD, a St.
George in rougghly  3.75 hours.  After the $10 fillup it rad a little under 3/4 tank
full Maybe the pump was messed, because I _never_ duplicated this.  My G/F was driving,
and she never did any WOT 3rd gear passes like I always do.  Has anyone ever heard of a
gas pump being inacurate before?

10 galllons 315 miles, maybe the speedo is WAY off who knows

Chris Winkley wrote:

> Andrew...
>
> I think either your speedo is wildly inaccurate, or your calculations. I
> keep pretty careful track of my mileage. Before I changed my turbos and

-snip-

--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 15:33:41 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
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Interestingly, here in Europe we do have Castrol Synthetic (RS, TT, TXT) and the
new Syntec (in Switz. since this year) I run 5W40 in Winter and 10W60 in Summer
and have consistent readings. Idle is just a little under the normal mark and on
very high speeds the needle stays below the upper larger mark. The only
"problem" (more a Gremlin) is that with an oil level below the full mark the
oil-warning light comes up when I accellerate hard or on high speeds up a hill.
Lifting the throttle cures this. We replaced the oil level switch (I did not
found in the US manual !) but didn't help yet.


> I'm also using Castrol Synthetic, 10W30 and notice my gauge being near the
> bottom at idle, and just above the bottom of the two large marks when
> driving.

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 15:33:41 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
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> i thought the rotor discs are sort of "hollow" from the inside to help air
> carry heat away?

Yes, correct. Some rotors have different internal grooving design to draw air or
out.

> couldn't the inside surfaces of the rotor be painted? (in the middle of the
> actual disc, between the braking surfaces. At least that's what i thought it
> looked like last time i had my wheel off. I could be wrong. please let me
> know if i am.

You can but I see no adantage in doing this.

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 16:07:32 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 18:07:42 -0500
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> > couldn't the inside surfaces of the rotor be painted? (in the
>
> You can but I see no adantage in doing this.

Well basically i was saying although negligeable, black radiates more heat
then any other color...
and hey, a good high heat paint should prevent rust too :)

how hot can brakes get during conditions it would glow red?

Omar


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 16:14:54 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 18:14:49 -0500
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> Well basically i was saying although negligeable, black radiates more
> heat then any other color... and hey, a good high heat paint
> should prevent rust too :)

Doesn't black absorb the most heat?  If you set a black piece of plastic in
the sun next to a white piece, doesn't the black piece become hotter than
the white piece?

I'd suspect that any paint on the rotor or caliper would help hold the heat
in, since paint would transfer heat more slowly than metal.

-Matt

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 16:44:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
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Team;

The low pressure "may"  be eleviated with a flush to clean out the ole system. My guess is
it needs the gunk and cooked oil cleaned out from high temps ......then go with Mobil 1
10-30. Back in my muscle car youth (another ole poop- -who here isn't)  I swore by
Castrol, but I am a firm advocate of Mobil 1 now and will stay so,  unless something
better comes along. Life is not static.

Best

Darc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 17:06:35 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
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Michael Dorsey wrote:

>  race for the first time I should get higher octane fuel at track?  If
>  should I increase boost while higher octane?
> Michael  K&N Intake/Borla Exhaust/Blitz DSBC

yes, run tank near empty when arriving at track; then put in maybe 4 gallons of highest
unleaded gas the track sells (100-104).  Then turn the boost up as HIGH as you can
without hitting fuelcut!!  Max it out!
Jack T.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 17:08:11 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Valve noise question
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I noticed some valve noise on my '91 VR4 about 3 or 4 weeks ago. I've decided
to try a flush treatment next oil change.

Full set of valve lifters was replaced about 2 years ago by previous owner.

My first oil change since buying the car was with Mobil 1 syn. last Oct.
Previous owner used non-syn.

2nd oil change was about 2 months ago - Mobil 1 syn.

1)Is there any kind of treatment I can do to the car now before next oil
change?

2)Any advantage to doing the flush treatment/oil change now, as opposed to
waiting untill the next oil change (about 4-5 mo. away)?

3)If I let the valves continue to clatter, am I doing any kind of permanent
damage I might avoid by doing the flush now?

Thanks for the help!

Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 18:06:56 1999
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Whatever you've done to your car, pass it on. I've never gotten over 25-27 mpg on the highway - of course that's doing almost a constant 80 or better with cruise and lots of flat spaces.  In city, maybe 15 mpg, if I'm lucky.
--

On Tue, 04 May 1999 15:50:16   Andrew Brilliant wrote:
>As for the calculations I can tell you exactly what happend..
>
>Gas was about 94cents/gallon back then but listen to what happend
>
>$10 in the tank.  So roughly 10 gallons, car had the gas light on
>
>Traveled 312 Miles to donw town SLC (the olive garden) from St. George BLVD, a St.
>George in rougghly  3.75 hours.  After the $10 fillup it rad a little under 3/4 tank
>full Maybe the pump was messed, because I _never_ duplicated this.  My G/F was driving,
>and she never did any WOT 3rd gear passes like I always do.  Has anyone ever heard of a
>gas pump being inacurate before?
>
>10 galllons 315 miles, maybe the speedo is WAY off who knows
>
>Chris Winkley wrote:
>
>> Andrew...
>>
>> I think either your speedo is wildly inaccurate, or your calculations. I
>> keep pretty careful track of my mileage. Before I changed my turbos and
>
>-snip-
>
>--
>Andrew M. Brilliant
>Webmaster
>IS Department
>Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
>801-852-4961
>1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 18:13:34 1999
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I just changed over to Castrol Synthetic 5-50 (using a K&N filter) and my oil pressure increased.  most of the time at idle it reads like 1/4 on the gauge (halfway between lowest and mid lines) and during cruising, it normally reads 1-2 lines above the middle.  Before, when I was using the SynBlend with a Fram, my pressure at idle would sometimes drop to the 2nd from the bottom (got a little nervous at that point) and when cruising it would sit a 1 line above mid-level.
--

On Tue, 4 May 1999 16:20:52    Michael Dorsey wrote:
>
>> However, something sounds odd about your oil pressure
>> indications (which is
>> why I asked about the weight). When I'm at idle, the gauge
>> reads just below
>> the lower of the two large lines. When I'm running anything
>> above 2K rpm,
>> it's nearly at the higher of the two large marks and stays
>> there, regardless
>> of throttle position.
>
>I'm also using Castrol Synthetic, 10W30 and notice my gauge being near the
>bottom at idle, and just above the bottom of the two large marks when
>driving.
>
>Michael
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 18:21:57 -0700
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I've gotten 28mpg on the flats between Bakersfield, CA and Las Vegas, NV...

-Bill/'95 VR-4 Spyder

> > I doubt that it's possible to get 32 mpg out of a VR4, under any speed,
on
> > flat terrain.
>
> I think it was Bob Fontana who stated that he noticed much better mileage
> after installing the VPC (upper 20s, but I don't think it was 32mgp tho.)




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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 18:22:47 1999
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Jim,
That's why they charge a 'core charge.'  He'll ship you one as soon as he gets the payment (VISA/Cash/Purchase Order).  You get the tranny, put it in, take the old used piece of #$@! out, and return it to him.  He should then refund your core charge.  If you decide you want to keep it as a paperweight or whatever, he keeps the core charge.  Don't know where he gets his synchros - closely guarded secret I imagine, cause if he tells, the MitsuStapo will be there and cut him off at the knees.  We've seen that happen whenever somebody has publicly announced a pipeline.  GUESS WHO'S WATCHING??????
--

On Tue, 4 May 1999 09:21:41    Jim Berry wrote:
>
>
>>
>>Ken Middaugh
>>
>>>I just got off the phone with Mike at MD Auto.  This is for real.  He
>>>has been rebuilding Getrags for *** 4 *** years.  He said a lot of Mitsu
>>>& Dodge dealers and aftermarket warranty companies know about him and use
>him.
>>
>
>I'm a little confused --- does he do an exchange or does he rebuild your
>trans.
>Could get time consuming for East coast folk !!  If your syncros are shot
>along
>with other problems then he just fixes the half of the job he can handle ???
>
>                    Jim Berry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 18:58:39 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise question
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> 1)Is there any kind of treatment I can do to the car now before next oil
> change?
>
> 2)Any advantage to doing the flush treatment/oil change now, as opposed to
> waiting untill the next oil change (about 4-5 mo. away)?
>
> 3)If I let the valves continue to clatter, am I doing any kind of permanent
> damage I might avoid by doing the flush now?
>

Hey Paul;

Oil and filters are cheap investments, even when synthetic. Changing frequently is one
of the best things you can do, and a flush will take the speculation out of the equation
if you do it now rather than wait.

Best

Darc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 19:03:08 1999
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From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
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References: <007501be9683$e850bc80$0a1ea8c0@mattjnt.fallon.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 21:06:05 -0500
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Black both absorbs _and_ radiates heat better than all lighter colors.

Dennis

----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Jannusch <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 6:14 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes and Heat question
[snip]
> Doesn't black absorb the most heat?  If you set a black piece of plastic
in
[snip]

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 19:55:17 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 21:49:51 -0500
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>If you run your tank almost dry and put five gallons (unleaded
>only if you haven't removed all three cats),

Won't this ruin the O2 sensors?

>BTW...I'd be curious to know what others are paying for race gas, along
with
>octane and your location.
>Looking forward...Chris
>


I get 100 octane unleaded at Texaco for $3.59 in Plymouth, MN. They also
sell 110 leaded and I am pretty sure that sells for $3.59 as well.  93
octane pump gas runs about $1.20.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 20:06:06 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
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BASTARDS...

We're paying $1.82 for premium in Vegas, if you shop around, otherwise
$1.91...ARGH!

(I know, I know, you live in a friggin' desert, what do you expect?)

-Bill

> I get 100 octane unleaded at Texaco for $3.59 in Plymouth, MN. They also
> sell 110 leaded and I am pretty sure that sells for $3.59 as well.  93
> octane pump gas runs about $1.20.




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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 20:17:56 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 22:12:31 -0500
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>I wish we had real gauges (with psi markings), for all I know, the oil
>pressure gauge is as unreliable as the boost gauge.   :-(
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>


I swapped out my center gauges for some Autometer gauges.  I replaced both
the oil and water temp gauges with mechanical gauges.  I also installed an
electrical fuel pressure gauge in the place vacated by the boost gauge.

I'm running Mobil-1 10W30 with ambient temperature ranging from 40-70.
Initially upon cold startup I see 80psi.  This slowly drops as the engine
warms up .  After running the car for a while I will get around 10-15 psi at
idle.  While driving, the oil pressure varies between 30-65 psi depending on
RPM.  My stock gauge barely moved at all.  It was always pegged just above
center, except at idle when it would drop two notches. I suspect that it is
purposely tuned this way as not to worry the average driver.

I plan on running some Gunk motor flush thru the engine soon.  It will be
interesting to see if this makes a difference on the readings.  I also plan
on running Mobil-1 15W50 this summer.  I suspect I will get slightly higher
readings with this viscosity.  My car is a '95 R/T TT with just over 30k
miles.  It has had a pretty easy life so far.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 20:31:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 23:29:59 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
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I am experiencing similar problems.
When I drive from Chattanooga, Tn to Nashville, Tn and to Birmingham, AL  I
general drive from 75-to-85 mph average  and sometimes the first quarter tank
lasts for 150 miles and sometimes it lasts only 70 to 80 miles.  usually the
last 3 quarter tank increments go down each step too.      1st 150 miles  
2cnd 80miles  3rd 60miles  and then about 45 miles.
  I have also noticed my car runs best at 90 to 100 miles per hour. It runs
smoothest, reacts and turns the best.  And seems to get better gas mileage??
maybee it just seems that way.  I think the  guage is inacurate......my car
has been close to empty before and the light would go on and go off
constantly.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 20:35:19 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
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MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> I switched to Castrol Syntec a while back..........and I have noticed my oil pressure stays lower, especially at idle...............the needle hangs only a mark or two above the L!!!
> When driving the needle stays at the first BIG mark and never goes above it......even when  boost is applied.                  Is this
> normal??????????  Thanks guys

I used Syntec before I went to Mobil 1. The ONLY reason I ever went with
Syntec was because it was on sale. I did notice the oil pressure with
the Syntec was lower than with the Mobil 1, but NOT as low as you're
reporting. I haven't really had any problems with either, but since the
Mobil 1 indicates a higher pressure (probably indicating it's probably a
bit denser when hot) I'll probably stick with it.

I don't know how good the oil pressure guage really is, or how
accurately it scales with changes in oil pressure. With Mobil 1, and the
car warmed up, my guage reads slightly below the first large mark at
idle and will run up between the upper 1/3rd of the guage between
3k-4kRPM.

Perhaps your sending unit or oil pump are bad.

Good Luck,

Bill Wagner
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 20:41:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 23:40:26 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Valve ticking here as well!!!!!
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I also recently have had a valve start ticking....and it has gotten a little
louder than it was......but not loud enough to be a rod.  To do the oil
flush....is it safe to trust a local 10 min oil change ......or should I dig
into the pockets and (heaven forbid) trust Mitsubishi to do it????  I'm not
into taking my car into Mitsubishi unless I  HAVE to.  Seems to me my car is
always delivered with more problems than it had before I took it in when I
take it to Mitsubishi....In fact.......Mitsubishi told me my car was
completely fixed and I threw a rod the next day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 20:53:17 1999
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This is teh EXACT SAME BHAVIOR

can't be coincidence

I do think though that as far as the 90 mph handling goes.  I used to have an Eclipse,
this is a GT car, it is designed to handle smooth at 90 mph I think it's a Pain in the
city... stiff clutch, rough ride.. But at 100 mph smooth as ice

MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> I am experiencing similar problems.
> When I drive from Chattanooga, Tn to Nashville, Tn and to Birmingham, AL  I
> general drive from 75-to-85 mph average  and sometimes the first quarter tank
> lasts for 150 miles and sometimes it lasts only 70 to 80 miles.  usually the
> last 3 quarter tank increments go down each step too.      1st 150 miles
> 2cnd 80miles  3rd 60miles  and then about 45 miles.
>   I have also noticed my car runs best at 90 to 100 miles per hour. It runs
> smoothest, reacts and turns the best.  And seems to get better gas mileage??
> maybee it just seems that way.  I think the  guage is inacurate......my car
> has been close to empty before and the light would go on and go off
> constantly.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
Andrew Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Connections, Inc.
OTC BB:   GLCO


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 21:01:30 1999
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 00:02:30 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise question
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Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>
> I noticed some valve noise on my '91 VR4 about 3 or 4 weeks ago. I've decided
> to try a flush treatment next oil change.

What kind of noise?? Is it a slight clicking or does it sound like
someone is lightly tapping the side of the top end with a hammer? Does
the noise ever go away?? Are you sure the noise is coming from the valve
area and not the underside of the engine??

I'm curious because I suspect that one of my lifters is failing (back
cylinder bank, of course!!). I get the noise that sounds as if someone
is tapping the top end lightly with a hammer, but it's eratic...often
not present at all.  Following the procedures in the manual, I slowly
rev the car from idle to 3000rpm and back  3 times (about 30 sec. for
each). In most cases, my clacking will disapear...particularly at higher
revs when the oil pressure goes up. Sometimes it will be clacking away
and then disappear all on it's own.

It's good to have a list back!

Thanks,

Bill Wagner
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 21:31:46 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost with higher octane fuel
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Here in the Kansas City Area we have one station with 107 Octane and it runs around
3.50 a gallon.  At our Local track it runs around .75 cents higher.  Great stuff, just
drains the wallet!
Gabe Estrada
94 Pearl Yellow VR-4
92 GMC Typhoon

Oskar wrote:

>
>
> I get 100 octane unleaded at Texaco for $3.59 in Plymouth, MN. They also
> sell 110 leaded and I am pretty sure that sells for $3.59 as well.  93
> octane pump gas runs about $1.20.
>
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 21:40:05 1999
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From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 22:49:18 -0400
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Just flushed it last Saturday.  If anything, the pressure seems to have
dropped.  I'm having a tough time finding Mobil 1 here.  Seems most places
don't stock it, and those that say they do never have it on the shelf, or
much space to put it.

Michael

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
> wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:43 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
>
>
> Team;
>
> The low pressure "may"  be eleviated with a flush to clean
> out the ole system. My guess is
> it needs the gunk and cooked oil cleaned out from high temps
> ......then go with Mobil 1
> 10-30. Back in my muscle car youth (another ole poop- -who
> here isn't)  I swore by
> Castrol, but I am a firm advocate of Mobil 1 now and will
> stay so,  unless something
> better comes along. Life is not static.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May  4 22:11:02 1999
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So what does everyone use to "flush" their system with.  Many different things out there to do it with.
--

On Tue, 4 May 1999 22:49:18    Michael Dorsey wrote:
>Just flushed it last Saturday.  If anything, the pressure seems to have
>dropped.  I'm having a tough time finding Mobil 1 here.  Seems most places
>don't stock it, and those that say they do never have it on the shelf, or
>much space to put it.
>
>Michael
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
>> wce@bc.sympatico.ca
>> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:43 PM
>> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>> Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
>>
>>
>> Team;
>>
>> The low pressure "may"  be eleviated with a flush to clean
>> out the ole system. My guess is
>> it needs the gunk and cooked oil cleaned out from high temps
>> ......then go with Mobil 1
>> 10-30. Back in my muscle car youth (another ole poop- -who
>> here isn't)  I swore by
>> Castrol, but I am a firm advocate of Mobil 1 now and will
>> stay so,  unless something
>> better comes along. Life is not static.
>>
>> Best
>>
>> Darc
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 05:46:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 08:56:47 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
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Same here.  I drive about 21 miles each way to work and drive fairly
moderate with a few 100MPH things now and then.  I usually stay in
sixth gear unless I need the power.  I've been averaging 19.5 MPG.
Took a trip to Pennsylvania doing around 80MPH and got 22MPG (also
all time high).  I can't see how it's possible to get 32MPG!
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors

Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> Andrew...
>
> I think either your speedo is wildly inaccurate, or your calculations. I
> keep pretty careful track of my mileage. Before I changed my turbos and
> injectors I consistently got between 12 and 14 mpg in the city (with a fair
> amount of WOT). On the highway, with speeds of up to 140+ mph, I get around
> 17 or 18 mpg. On a trip to the Bay area this January, I actually used the
> cruise control at 85 mph in sixth gear and checked my mileage after a half
> tank of gas. It was 22 mpg, an all time high. I doubt that it's possible to
> get 32 mpg out of a VR4, under any speed, on flat terrain.
>
> Check for loose mechanical connections, and/or check your math.
>
> BTW...could you give me the complete size of the tires (275/xx-18 or
> 275/xx-17) on your VR4? What brand? Any clearance problems?
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Brilliant [mailto:andrewb@infowest.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 1:36 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
>
> Some weird things my VR-4 does I wonder if anyone elses does
>
> Prime gas mileage speed seems to be aroun 92 mph
>
> I got 32 mpg going from St. George, to Salt Lake city, at 92 mph cruise
> control
>
> Around the city if I am on the gas I can burn a 1/4 of a tank just from
> going to to work
> and back, and lunch prboably around 24 miles
>
> Is this normal
>
> When going very fast.  Full throttle continuously.  I can burn a 1/8 tank in
> 5 or 6
> miles  So at 160 mph I eat up fuel at 2 mpg?  That is nuts anyone else with
> this problem
> or si the Fuel gauge kind of inacurate
>
> Only mod I have is a bleeder valve, and cut up air box 275 mm tires rear.
> 38psi Front
> and 32 Rear
>
> --
> Andrew M. Brilliant
> Webmaster
> IS Department
> Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
> 801-852-4961
> 1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 07:53:15 1999
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From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 10:53:31 -0400
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This is a result of an inaccurate guage/sensor.
Think about it...if anything you would burn less gas as the tank contents
decreased due to the weight decrease. Also, while parked on a slant, the gas
warning light will turn on if the tank is low enough, then go back off again
once moving on level ground. I've seen it blink when braking hard with a low
tank too.

Cars don't get less fuel efficient with less gas in their tank...they get
more fuel efficient.
BTW, I agree the cars (or at least mine) feel the best at 70-90mph. :)
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES


> This is teh EXACT SAME BHAVIOR
>
> can't be coincidence

(snip)

> > general drive from 75-to-85 mph average  and sometimes the
> first quarter tank
> > lasts for 150 miles and sometimes it lasts only 70 to 80 miles.
>  usually the
> > last 3 quarter tank increments go down each step too.      1st 150 miles
> > 2cnd 80miles  3rd 60miles  and then about 45 miles.
> >   I have also noticed my car runs best at 90 to 100 miles per
> hour. It runs
> > smoothest, reacts and turns the best.  And seems to get better
> gas mileage??
> > maybee it just seems that way.  I think the  guage is
> inacurate......my car
> > has been close to empty before and the light would go on and go off
> > constantly.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 08:01:16 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Apologies...
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 08:01:06 -0700
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Howdy folks...

It's been brought to my attention that my question about race gas prices was
off topic and non-technical in nature. I agree. I should've requested that
replies be sent to me privately.

Sorry about that.

If anyone else has data for me, please send it privately to
"cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com".

Let's keep our list clean and noise free!!!

Thanks.

Looking forward...Chris
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 09:36:44 1999
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From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 12:10:19 -0400
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Pep boys had gunk or STP.  Gunk required a cold engine, where STP didn't.
Being the impatient person I am, I opted for STP.  It said to let it run for
5-20 minutes at 1500 RPM.  I ran it for 7 minutes at 1500, and 10 minutes at
1000.  Can't say I've noticed much of a difference, but I've run synthetic
oil for the last 10k, and the car only has 28k total, so it probably wasn't
too bad to start off with.

Michael


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Terry Swift
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 1:11 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
>
>
> So what does everyone use to "flush" their system with.  Many
> different things out there to do it with.
> --
>
> On Tue, 4 May 1999 22:49:18    Michael Dorsey wrote:
> >Just flushed it last Saturday.  If anything, the pressure
> seems to have
> >dropped.  I'm having a tough time finding Mobil 1 here.
> Seems most places
> >don't stock it, and those that say they do never have it on
> the shelf, or
> >much space to put it.
> >
> >Michael
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> >> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
> >> wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> >> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:43 PM
> >> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> >> Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1 Oil pressure issue
> >>
> >>
> >> Team;
> >>
> >> The low pressure "may"  be eleviated with a flush to clean
> >> out the ole system. My guess is
> >> it needs the gunk and cooked oil cleaned out from high temps
> >> ......then go with Mobil 1
> >> 10-30. Back in my muscle car youth (another ole poop- -who
> >> here isn't)  I swore by
> >> Castrol, but I am a firm advocate of Mobil 1 now and will
> >> stay so,  unless something
> >> better comes along. Life is not static.
> >>
> >> Best
> >>
> >> Darc
> >>
> >> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> >> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >>
> >
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 09:52:37 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
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Hrmm...well that rules out dirt/baked oil/clogging  as a cause. The gauge or sending
unit may not be functioning properly as posted earlier, or less likely, an oil pump
problem. The gauges in our cars could be better quality that's for certain, particularly
given the sticker price of the vehicles.  The ticking/lifter noise is another issue; a
given with these vehicles at some point or another it seems. Did the flush help with
this, or have you experienced it? Whether or not this  noise is indicative of valve
train replacement or not, I'll leave to the rebuild experts in the group to kick around.

Best

Darc

Michael Dorsey wrote:

> Pep boys had gunk or STP.  Gunk required a cold engine, where STP didn't.
> Being the impatient person I am, I opted for STP.  It said to let it run for
> 5-20 minutes at 1500 RPM.  I ran it for 7 minutes at 1500, and 10 minutes at
> 1000.  Can't say I've noticed much of a difference, but I've run synthetic
> oil for the last 10k, and the car only has 28k total, so it probably wasn't
> too bad to start off with.
>
> Michael
>



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 10:30:54 1999
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From: "Brad Younkman" <stealth@digitalexp.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <199905032105.OAA08303@cyclops.hyperdream.com> <372E29E9.C7829679@omega.gat.com> <004901be95c5$735fb2a0$4003fea9@cender>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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----- Original Message -----
From: CEnder (Chris Chiasson) <cender@email.msn.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 7:31 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **


> maybe this guy could build us a better tranny that fit stock specs, but
that
> wouldn't break as much --- special metals.... titanium/carbon fiber... etc
>
Are these parts everyone is talking about something i could have a relative
(my brothers father-in-law) that owns a machine shop make using a specific
metal or something stronger than what is used now? If somebody could e-mail
me privately or something and explain what these parts look like and what
type of metal you recommend, I'll call and ask if this is possible with a
reasonable price.

Brad #078
91 Dodge Stealth RT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 10:55:26 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 13:50:07 -0400
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I have been following this thread for a while and I can not help be a
little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.  I think with
this many people on the list we could band together and make our own parts.
I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine shop doing all
the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a group of people
together, define the problems with the tranny's and then get the parts made
we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem to be the main
problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made of
brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background or the
drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Younkman [SMTP:stealth@digitalexp.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 1:31 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Are these parts everyone is talking about something i could have a
relative
(my brothers father-in-law) that owns a machine shop make using a specific
metal or something stronger than what is used now? If somebody could e-mail
me privately or something and explain what these parts look like and what
type of metal you recommend, I'll call and ask if this is possible with a
reasonable price.

Brad #078
91 Dodge Stealth RT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 14:41:35 1999
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From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: UPRD classifieds
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 14:40:12 -0700
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Remember that 550HP VR-4 I saw at UPRD in Huntington Beach? Well, guess
what?... it's for sale!

I'm shocked they didn't include all the mods performed on this vehicle. It's
a lot of custom work. I was able to go for a spin in the thing. It keeps
pulling even in 4th gear!

http://www.uprd.com/Classfieds/classfieds.html


Seeya!

Dave Allison

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 16:10:00 1999
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Kevin;

The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's just a little different to
do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other topics interspersed,  lack
of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes it difficult...but not
impossible.

Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he manged a "one time only" order
of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the bull by the horns and
organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing some serious investigative
work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results again and aftermarket sources
he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for splines. One, which Jack posted,
was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the better of the two. Again, if
we have all of the information, material, and people in one room, a solution/new
fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This topic may be a good thing to
have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and shake hands. How about making
(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering from this point on. That way,
maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag, valve train, etc, etc. With
the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the list is endless...in one
gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like Forrest's old place, endless
beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do or solve. Treat it as a
classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the problem/parts to be improved
upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the next generation who are herein
offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate for all (holiday city). Who'd
want to miss it.

Darc

Kevin Schappell wrote:

> I have been following this thread for a while and I can not help be a
> little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.  I think with
> this many people on the list we could band together and make our own parts.
>  I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine shop doing all
> the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a group of people
> together, define the problems with the tranny's and then get the parts made
> we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem to be the main
> problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made of
> brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background or the
> drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
>
> Kevin Schappell



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 16:11:37 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info ** Auto Tranmission?
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 19:06:34 -0400
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Anyone find anything out about the Automatic transmission in some vr-4s and
TTs? Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:07 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

Kevin;

The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's
just a little different to
do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other
topics interspersed,  lack
of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes
it difficult...but not
impossible.

Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he
manged a "one time only" order
of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the
bull by the horns and
organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing
some serious investigative
work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results
again and aftermarket sources
he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for
splines. One, which Jack posted,
was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the
better of the two. Again, if
we have all of the information, material, and people in one
room, a solution/new
fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This
topic may be a good thing to
have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and
shake hands. How about making
(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering
from this point on. That way,
maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag,
valve train, etc, etc. With
the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the
list is endless...in one
gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like
Forrest's old place, endless
beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do
or solve. Treat it as a
classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the
problem/parts to be improved
upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the
next generation who are herein
offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate
for all (holiday city). Who'd
want to miss it.

Darc

Kevin Schappell wrote:

> I have been following this thread for a while and I can
not help be a
> little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.
I think with
> this many people on the list we could band together and
make our own parts.
>  I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine
shop doing all
> the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a
group of people
> together, define the problems with the tranny's and then
get the parts made
> we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem
to be the main
> problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are
made of
> brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the
background or the
> drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do
it.
>
> Kevin Schappell



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 16:19:59 1999
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From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info ** Auto Tranmission?
Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 16:21:34 PDT
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As much of a POS the manual is to many owners...I'd rather have 3 gears I
could control rather than an automatic.
Sorry...my old school mentality...sports cars=manual tranny

>
>Anyone find anything out about the Automatic transmission in some vr-4s and
>TTs? Thanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:07 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
>
> Kevin;
>
> The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's
>just a little different to
> do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other
>topics interspersed,  lack
> of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes
>it difficult...but not
> impossible.
>
> Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he
>manged a "one time only" order
> of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the
>bull by the horns and
> organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing
>some serious investigative
> work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results
>again and aftermarket sources
> he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for
>splines. One, which Jack posted,
> was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the
>better of the two. Again, if
> we have all of the information, material, and people in one
>room, a solution/new
> fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This
>topic may be a good thing to
> have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and
>shake hands. How about making
> (at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering
>from this point on. That way,
> maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag,
>valve train, etc, etc. With
> the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the
>list is endless...in one
> gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like
>Forrest's old place, endless
> beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do
>or solve. Treat it as a
> classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the
>problem/parts to be improved
> upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the
>next generation who are herein
> offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate
>for all (holiday city). Who'd
> want to miss it.
>
> Darc
>
> Kevin Schappell wrote:
>
> > I have been following this thread for a while and I can
>not help be a
> > little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.
>I think with
> > this many people on the list we could band together and
>make our own parts.
> >  I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine
>shop doing all
> > the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a
>group of people
> > together, define the problems with the tranny's and then
>get the parts made
> > we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem
>to be the main
> > problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are
>made of
> > brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the
>background or the
> > drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do
>it.
> >
> > Kevin Schappell
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 16:42:19 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info ** Auto Tranmission?
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 19:37:11 -0400
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Yeah but Automatic can produce consistent times, that's why racers use them
and Nitrous works better with them!!!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Reiss [mailto:michael_reiss@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:22 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info ** Auto
Tranmission?


As much of a POS the manual is to many owners...I'd rather
have 3 gears I
could control rather than an automatic.
Sorry...my old school mentality...sports cars=manual tranny

>
>Anyone find anything out about the Automatic transmission
in some vr-4s and
>TTs? Thanks
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
[mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:07 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info
**
>
> Kevin;
>
> The brains are certainly gathered here and
the talent...it's
>just a little different to
> do on-line brain storming with the time lags
involved, other
>topics interspersed,  lack
> of being a physical room to examine
material, etc. It makes
>it difficult...but not
> impossible.
>
> Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the
synchros, as he
>manged a "one time only" order
> of some, and perhaps could input if someone
really grabs the
>bull by the horns and
> organizes a "real" brainstorming situation.
Paul was doing
>some serious investigative
> work on this not long ago and maybe can post
the results
>again and aftermarket sources
> he found...I believe there were 2 different
outlets for
>splines. One, which Jack posted,
> was reported to have superhardened metal, so
might be the
>better of the two. Again, if
> we have all of the information, material,
and people in one
>room, a solution/new
> fabrication would not likely be that hard to
achieve.This
>topic may be a good thing to
> have a gathering for, instead of meeing to
polish cars and
>shake hands. How about making
> (at least) one topic like this the theme of
each gathering
>from this point on. That way,
> maybe some serious solutions will arise to:
brakes, getrag,
>valve train, etc, etc. With
> the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich,
Bob, Ken...the
>list is endless...in one
> gathering with a sharp focus (with a
warehouse like
>Forrest's old place, endless
> beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't
think we cann't do
>or solve. Treat it as a
> classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and
examples of the
>problem/parts to be improved
> upon. We have the brains and all the willing
help of the
>next generation who are herein
> offering services. Next thing...time and
place appropriate
>for all (holiday city). Who'd
> want to miss it.
>
> Darc
>
> Kevin Schappell wrote:
>
> > I have been following this thread for a
while and I can
>not help be a
> > little scared that my tranny will fly
apart anytime soon.
>I think with
> > this many people on the list we could band
together and
>make our own parts.
> >  I work in an aluminum foundry with a
pretty good machine
>shop doing all
> > the CNC programming and engineering.  If
we could get a
>group of people
> > together, define the problems with the
tranny's and then
>get the parts made
> > we could possibly solve the problems.  The
syncro's seem
>to be the main
> > problem, and from what I have seen most
syncro's (sp?) are
>made of
> > brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If
anyone has the
>background or the
> > drive to work on a project like this speak
up and let's do
>it.
> >
> > Kevin Schappell
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>



_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 17:05:08 1999
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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 20:03:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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In a message dated 99-05-05 13:56:37 EDT, you write:

<< I have been following this thread for a while and I can not help be a
little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.

snip

The syncro's seem to be the main
problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made of
brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background or the
drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
  >>

I talked to a California company called BRE engines awhile back about
rebuilding trannys w/ bad synchros. They are a drag racing products company
that races everything from rail cars to street cars. Their cars hold several
national records (I think they sponsor a Civic, for example). They do a
rebuild UPGRADE for Talon/Eclipse/Laser transaxles that improves shifting
performance. An independent source confirmed that the upgrade is for real
after a test drive.

I called and talked to them about the difficulty in finding synchros for the
3000GT/Stealth and was told they have the capability for manufacturing
synchros out of solid brass if need be. I suggested that BRE might offer
synchros if they got a chance to work on a tranny and take some measurements.
The guy I talked to seemed interested in the idea.

To get this ball rolling all we need to do is have someone take the plunge
and send in their bad tranny to BRE for a rebuild. I did, however, forget to
get a price for a rebuild (duuuuhhhh). First thing we need to do is contact
BRE and get an estimate on the rebuild cost and the price for individual and
partial/full sets of synchros.

If the rebuild cost turns out to be really high, I suggest we hold a lottery
to help with the cost:

"ONE LUCKY WINNER WILL GET $XXXXX TOWARDS A TRANNY REBUILD BY FAMED RACING
COMPANY BRE ENGINES!!!!"

My tranny is virtually brand new and I shift gennnntlyyyy so I doubt I'll
ever need new synchros - but It p***** me off the way Mitsu/Getrag won't
supply parts so I'd be willing to pledge some $$$ towards a lottery fund just
to see a source for good (improved??!!) synchros developed.

Whaddayaguysthink?

Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 17:12:45 1999
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Message-ID: <f50319f2.24623817@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 20:11:03 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise question
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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In a message dated 99-05-05 00:03:32 EDT, you write:

<< What kind of noise?? Is it a slight clicking or does it sound like
someone is lightly tapping the side of the top end with a hammer? Does
the noise ever go away?? Are you sure the noise is coming from the valve
area and not the underside of the engine?? >>

Clicking and light tapping at times. Only barely audible from inside the car
at a stop (radio and even a/c-heater fan on low masks it easily) Sounds like
multiple valves. Goes away at higher revs. Sounds like it is coming from the
front bank of valves. Sounds very much like your description. At least the
valves go bad in a consistent manner...

Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 17:14:27 1999
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Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:

> .
>
> Whaddayaguysthink?
>

I like the idea Paul.. a good start is to get a price,  and hey, mine or anyone's tranny
can go from what I've heard, even with the finest/gentlest touch at the wheel.  So after
a price all we need is a uncorruptable to run the lottery.

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 17:22:29 1999
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Maybe if the "Originators" of both this list, 3si, and the 3000GT List got together and went before Mitsu (USA - Pierre Gagnon, CEO and Japan if necessary) to explain the problem from their overall perspective, then maybe we could get some action. As individuals, our wonderful Mitsu Corp folks, couldn't care less, as long as we keep opening our wallets to them.  Mitsu is in a world of hurt financially, along with Nissan, so maybe they would listen to a dollars and cents approach.  Of course nobody wants to keep shelling out money to rebuild a tranny, but if parts are more readily available, I think people would be willing to stay with the brand - but as long as they keep the upper hand and make us buy a whole unit - probably thinking greater dollars and cents on this one - the 3si community will continue to shrink.  I've got a car that's really worth about $12,500 on the market, but with grinding synchros, my value drops a couple of grand.  Law of Economics says to ditch it wh!
ile I can get what I can or continue to loose money hand over fist due to continued problems.
--

On Wed, 05 May 1999 16:06:45   wce wrote:
>Kevin;
>
>The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's just a little different to
>do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other topics interspersed,  lack
>of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes it difficult...but not
>impossible.
>
>Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he manged a "one time only" order
>of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the bull by the horns and
>organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing some serious investigative
>work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results again and aftermarket sources
>he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for splines. One, which Jack posted,
>was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the better of the two. Again, if
>we have all of the information, material, and people in one room, a solution/new
>fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This topic may be a good thing to
>have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and shake hands. How about making
>(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering from this point on. That way,
>maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag, valve train, etc, etc. With
>the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the list is endless...in one
>gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like Forrest's old place, endless
>beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do or solve. Treat it as a
>classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the problem/parts to be improved
>upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the next generation who are herein
>offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate for all (holiday city). Who'd
>want to miss it.
>
>Darc
>
>Kevin Schappell wrote:
>
>> I have been following this thread for a while and I can not help be a
>> little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.  I think with
>> this many people on the list we could band together and make our own parts.
>>  I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine shop doing all
>> the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a group of people
>> together, define the problems with the tranny's and then get the parts made
>> we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem to be the main
>> problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made of
>> brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background or the
>> drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
>>
>> Kevin Schappell
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 17:44:36 1999
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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 20:43:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info ** Auto Tranmission?
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Every TT stealth or Vr-4 I have ever driven with an auto transmission always
had very slow  response time switching gears..  The tranny would build up the
miles and hesitate between gears.... almost like it is having to GUESS  too
much..... not smooth or quick enough for me....just my opinion.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 17:46:31 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 17:44:44 -0700
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band together and make our own parts.

> I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine shop doing all
>the CNC programming and engineering>we could possibly solve the problems.
The syncro's seem tobe th emain problem   what I have seen most syncro's (sp?)
are made of brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background
or the drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.


I tried several times about a month ago to get some used syncros to take to
a restoration machine shop in southern Ca. [ they make restoration parts for
Ferrari - lambo etc. ]. I would like a used set to take in to see if it's feasible and
to get a rough idea of cost. A new set would be needed at some time but at least
some positive action would be made.

    Help me out here  ----- Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 17:53:44 1999
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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 20:53:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info ** Auto Tranmission?
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I've searched many a used car list to try & locate an Automatic VR-4 or TT.
Never found even one? If it existed, can this tranny be bought from a dealer?
Arty 91 VR-4


In a message dated 5/5/99 8:45:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, MitsuVR41@aol.com
writes:

<< ubj: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info ** Auto Tranmission?
Date: 5/5/99 8:45:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com

Every TT stealth or Vr-4 I have ever driven with an auto transmission always
had very slow  response time switching gears..  The tranny would build up
the
miles and hesitate between gears.... almost like it is having to GUESS  too
much..... not smooth or quick enough for me....just my opinion.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 18:26:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:25:15 EDT
Subject: Team3S: More Turbo problems
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When I drive 80 mph in fifth gear.............and try to lightly
accelerate.....my  boost gauge gets to 0 and I hear and feel a pop up front
and my  car will not accelerate.  I have to be in 3rd gear to drive at 80mph
without tearing my turbos up.....this is  crazy......
Cruise control  is totally out of the question as well.  If I put it  in 5th
and try to even cruise at 90mph  when I reach a hill  the boost tries to
build and  I hear the popping again.
When I try to accelerate from a stop......the car gets good boost until the 
needle gets to
about 7  psi ?((which takes all of not even one second of course))  on the
stock  guage and then  the  turbos start  cutting  out and I lose horsepower
and the car stops accelerating......and my exhaust gets reall choppy
basically....any accleleration  in my car has  to be  done with the RPM's
above 4000!!!! or not done at all!!!!
any ideas????????????
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 20:35:10 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 23:33:13 -0400
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I think this would be the best route.  If anyone has an old tranny laying
around take it apart and send a syncro to me or someone else to measure.
Then a drawing can be made and requests for quotes can be sent out.  The
nice thing about the list being national, we can get the best price.
Machining costs vary greatly depending on location.  Maybe the guy who is
offering the rebuilt transmissions can give us an old one or even measure a
new one.  I think it would be in his best interest to help us as he may have
a cheap source of parts down the road. (maybe even a stronger one)  Once we
have the cheapest quote we can get an initial small batch and have them
tested. (read-we need guinea pigs) As for money, here is my idea.  Who ever
would like to contribute can chip in for the first batch of parts.  Then we
will distribute the parts first to the ones who paid up front and then sell
the remaining ones to repay the investors.  Now I don't know how we keep
this honest but I am sure we can work some kind of open accounting system
online so everyone can be assured of a fair deal.  I don't know how to
address liability.  Today with the state of this country and lawyers it
could be a tricky issue.  Any ideas?



Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
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-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **


>band together and make our own parts.

>I tried several times about a month ago to get some used syncros to take to
>a restoration machine shop in southern Ca. [ they make restoration parts
for
>Ferrari - lambo etc. ]. I would like a used set to take in to see if it's
feasible and
>to get a rough idea of cost. A new set would be needed at some time but at
least
>some positive action would be made.
>
>    Help me out here  ----- Jim Berry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 20:41:06 1999
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Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 23:42:12 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
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Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> I've searched many a used car list to try & locate an Automatic VR-4 or TT.
> Never found even one? If it existed, can this tranny be bought from a dealer?

I believe, that when the Stealth/3000GT first came out, they had an auto
tranny available, but ONLY for a VERY short while. I would suspect that
the product may have been limited to Japan. I don't believe it was ever
officially advertised as being available. I wouldn't bet that it can be
bought from the dealer.

Good Luck,

Bill Wagner
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 21:26:40 1999
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Perhaps someone who bought some parts from the original Jack Tartadian
order hasn't installed them yet. It would be best to use UNUSED items as
a model since you don't want someone creating duplicates of worn parts.
Additionally, why limit it to just synchros...how about a full kit
including seals. Also keep in mind that parts will be needed to produce
parts for both 5 and 6 speed transaxles.Possibly, we could by a pair of
new (or rebuilt) Getrag 5 and 6 speed units. That SOUNDS like a lot of
money, but between the members on this list and those on the web site,
isn't it possible we could find at least a hundred people to combine to
buy a pair of units for disassembly?? I know I'd be MORE than willing to
fork over $60.00 - $100.00 for this "research" effort!! Perhaps we could
even find someone willing to part with a busted Getrag so the weaknesses
could be properly analyzed. About the only thing I'd be worried about is
that the materials being used are strong enough to do the job.

As far as liability goes...it's probably Mitsubishi and Chryslers risk,
after all, this is being caused by their policy.

Just my opinions,

                Bill Wagner


Kevin Schappell wrote:
>
> I think this would be the best route.  If anyone has an old tranny laying
> around take it apart and send a syncro to me or someone else to measure.
> Then a drawing can be made and requests for quotes can be sent out.  The
> nice thing about the list being national, we can get the best price.
> Machining costs vary greatly depending on location.  Maybe the guy who is
> offering the rebuilt transmissions can give us an old one or even measure a
> new one.  I think it would be in his best interest to help us as he may have
> a cheap source of parts down the road. (maybe even a stronger one)  Once we
> have the cheapest quote we can get an initial small batch and have them
> tested. (read-we need guinea pigs) As for money, here is my idea.  Who ever
> would like to contribute can chip in for the first batch of parts.  Then we
> will distribute the parts first to the ones who paid up front and then sell
> the remaining ones to repay the investors.  Now I don't know how we keep
> this honest but I am sure we can work some kind of open accounting system
> online so everyone can be assured of a fair deal.  I don't know how to
> address liability.  Today with the state of this country and lawyers it
> could be a tricky issue.  Any ideas?
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 22:25:31 1999
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I tend to lean in favor of organizing a class action lawsuit which I think would be more persuasive than sending the CEO a "Dear Sir, ... signed, Concerned Customer" letter.  I was very close to inquiring with a couple law firms, but stopped to find out what progress the previous legal saber rattling on the 3000gt.com web board had went.  Answer: nowhere yet.

My transmission is on the floor while I do the clutch, waiting for a replacement of a defective NEW release bearing which luckily I noticed before installing #@!$!  Anyway since its out of the car I noticed the wear on the rear output shaft spline, which is starting to show obvious and I'd say abnormal wear ridge patterns after only 35,000 miles on the car.  Mine isn't gone yet, but I'd say the consistency of this one problem (shaft splines) demonstrates a design definciency in the transmission.  The synchros is an additional problem.   As I understand it, we'd have to prove that Mitsu knew about the problems and design deficiencies in the transmission and did nothing to correct it.  So those of you who, to your credit, have complained in writing and gotten the boilerplate "not our problem. pbbbbt!" letter back, keep that stuff around for possible future reference.

email me privately so as not to crowd the list if you're pissed and you think you'd like to "join the class" if we go forward with this.

Dave


Terry Swift wrote:

> Maybe if the "Originators" of both this list, 3si, and the 3000GT List got together and went before Mitsu (USA - Pierre Gagnon, CEO and Japan if necessary) to explain the problem from their overall perspective, then maybe we could get some action. As individuals, our wonderful Mitsu Corp folks, couldn't care less, as long as we keep opening our wallets to them.  Mitsu is in a world of hurt financially, along with Nissan, so maybe they would listen to a dollars and cents approach.  Of course nobody wants to keep shelling out money to rebuild a tranny, but if parts are more readily available, I think people would be willing to stay with the brand - but as long as they keep the upper hand and make us buy a whole unit - probably thinking greater dollars and cents on this one - the 3si community will continue to shrink.  I've got a car that's really worth about $12,500 on the market, but with grinding synchros, my value drops a couple of grand.  Law of Economics says to ditch it !
wh!
> ile I can get what I can or continue to loose money hand over fist due to continued problems.
> --
>
> On Wed, 05 May 1999 16:06:45   wce wrote:
> >Kevin;
> >
> >The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's just a little different to
> >do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other topics interspersed,  lack
> >of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes it difficult...but not
> >impossible.
> >
> >Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he manged a "one time only" order
> >of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the bull by the horns and
> >organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing some serious investigative
> >work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results again and aftermarket sources
> >he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for splines. One, which Jack posted,
> >was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the better of the two. Again, if
> >we have all of the information, material, and people in one room, a solution/new
> >fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This topic may be a good thing to
> >have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and shake hands. How about making
> >(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering from this point on. That way,
> >maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag, valve train, etc, etc. With
> >the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the list is endless...in one
> >gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like Forrest's old place, endless
> >beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do or solve. Treat it as a
> >classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the problem/parts to be improved
> >upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the next generation who are herein
> >offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate for all (holiday city). Who'd
> >want to miss it.
> >
> >Darc
> >
> >Kevin Schappell wrote:
> >
> >> I have been following this thread for a while and I can not help be a
> >> little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.  I think with
> >> this many people on the list we could band together and make our own parts.
> >>  I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine shop doing all
> >> the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a group of people
> >> together, define the problems with the tranny's and then get the parts made
> >> we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem to be the main
> >> problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made of
> >> brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background or the
> >> drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
> >>
> >> Kevin Schappell
> >
> >
> >
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May  5 23:20:26 1999
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I had some feedback from another list member that my new clutch bearing
might not be defective after all.  On the new bearing, I can move the
inner bearing back and forth inside the race.  The first time I looked
at it, it was not centered and I thought the sleeve portion of the
clutch fork cage was pressed in crooked.  After futzing with it a
little, it went "pop" and the bearing moved more back into center in the
race.

My only concern is that the old bearing doesn't have this looseness
between the bearing and race.  But maybe it gets squashed down some
after its had some load on it.

I'm just really 'noid about putting this thing in the car and then
finding out its screwed up.

Dave



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 02:25:03 1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:26:51 -0700
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hehehe, I wanted to do something SIMPLE to my Dodge TT....change the spark
plug vires.

There was a thunderstorm coming, but I was thinking....rain won't be there
before at least 15 minutes...and I do NOT need that to do something as
simple as to swap the plugs wires..

WRONG......aarrgggllll

Seems that the Mitsu engineers are MORE perverted than the NISSAN engineers
(they were ranked 1st so far...)

So...tell me...do I really have to remove the intake plenum to change the
wires....how long will it take...what should I do at the same time (spark
plugs....probably)..is there a "how-to" somewhere on the net...etc, etc..

See you

Henri

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 02:47:11 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries
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Hi

Yes you have to remove the intake plenum to change plugs and/or wires. The job can be done in about 1 houer and isn't as hard as it first looks. The only real problem is when you remove the (EGR pipe in the back, close to firewall) there is a small gasket that you have to guard with your life. If you drop that one... place a towel under it before you start and don't forget to take the towel away after the istallation. I did !! and that resultet in a nice big engine fire !!! and I know that atleast one more on the list have had a fire due to the same misstake (no names)

Change plugs at the same time, this isn't a job you would like to do again in the near future.  If you are planning on using higher boost gap the plugs 0.30-0.35. And use the NGK plugs they are the best.

Kevin have some information about the removal on his page.
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/8443/Other_gto_manual.html

Oh one more thing, if you have problem to get the Y-pipe back on the throttle body then use a hot air gun to warm the Y-pipe. This will make it very easy to get it in place.


Hope it helps

Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu

-----Original Message-----
From: Genesiscon Lehir <lehir@genesiscom.ch>

>So...tell me...do I really have to remove the intake plenum to change the
>wires....how long will it take...what should I do at the same time (spark
>plugs....probably)..is there a "how-to" somewhere on the net...etc, etc..
>
>See you
>
>Henri
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 06:49:20 1999
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:44:46 -0500
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MitsuVR41:

Sounds to me like you need a plugs and wires change.  My car exhibited
much the same.  New plugs (gapped to 0.034) and wires changed all that
for me.

Good luck.

Scott

On Wed, 5 May 1999 21:25:15 EDT MitsuVR41@aol.com writes:
>When I drive 80 mph in fifth gear.............and try to lightly
>accelerate.....my  boost gauge gets to 0 and I hear and feel a pop up
>front
>and my  car will not accelerate.  I have to be in 3rd gear to drive at
>80mph
>without tearing my turbos up.....this is  crazy......
>Cruise control  is totally out of the question as well.  If I put it 
>in 5th
>and try to even cruise at 90mph  when I reach a hill  the boost tries
>to
>build and  I hear the popping again.
>When I try to accelerate from a stop......the car gets good boost
>until the 
>needle gets to
>about 7  psi ?((which takes all of not even one second of course))  on
>the
>stock  guage and then  the  turbos start  cutting  out and I lose
>horsepower
>and the car stops accelerating......and my exhaust gets reall choppy
>basically....any accleleration  in my car has  to be  done with the
>RPM's
>above 4000!!!! or not done at all!!!!
>any ideas????????????
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 07:03:44 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:58:14 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch bearing
Message-ID: <19990506.085934.-319099.6.SJC0U812@juno.com>
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David:

Being a novice, I can only offer experience.  I had my clutch replaced
last June.  They replaced a seized TOB maybe two months later, indicating
the were made from a different material.  The second time they also lubed
the shaft.  I'm still not convinced the part is where it needs to be
versus "feel" from the previous one.  I question cutting of corners to
save $.

Regards,

SJ

On Wed, 05 May 1999 23:53:03 -0700 David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
writes:
>
>I had some feedback from another list member that my new clutch
>bearing
>might not be defective after all.  On the new bearing, I can move the
>inner bearing back and forth inside the race.  The first time I
>looked
>at it, it was not centered and I thought the sleeve portion of the
>clutch fork cage was pressed in crooked.  After futzing with it a
>little, it went "pop" and the bearing moved more back into center in
>the
>race.
>
>My only concern is that the old bearing doesn't have this looseness
>between the bearing and race.  But maybe it gets squashed down some
>after its had some load on it.
>
>I'm just really 'noid about putting this thing in the car and then
>finding out its screwed up.
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 07:03:57 1999
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:55:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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David and all:

Does not the new Nissan TT also use Getrag 6-speeds?  Won't they begin to
experience this problem too?

Regards,

SJ

On Wed, 05 May 1999 22:57:55 -0700 David Margrave <davidma@premier1.net>
writes:
>
>I tend to lean in favor of organizing a class action lawsuit which I
>think would be more persuasive than sending the CEO a "Dear Sir, ...
>signed, Concerned Customer" letter.  I was very close to inquiring
>with a couple law firms, but stopped to find out what progress the
>previous legal saber rattling on the 3000gt.com web board had went. 
>Answer: nowhere yet.
>
>My transmission is on the floor while I do the clutch, waiting for a
>replacement of a defective NEW release bearing which luckily I noticed
>before installing #@!$!  Anyway since its out of the car I noticed the
>wear on the rear output shaft spline, which is starting to show
>obvious and I'd say abnormal wear ridge patterns after only 35,000
>miles on the car.  Mine isn't gone yet, but I'd say the consistency of
>this one problem (shaft splines) demonstrates a design definciency in
>the transmission.  The synchros is an additional problem.   As I
>understand it, we'd have to prove that Mitsu knew about the problems
>and design deficiencies in the transmission and did nothing to correct
>it.  So those of you who, to your credit, have complained in writing
>and gotten the boilerplate "not our problem. pbbbbt!" letter back,
>keep that stuff around for possible future reference.
>
>email me privately so as not to crowd the list if you're pissed and
>you think you'd like to "join the class" if we go forward with this.
>
>Dave
>
>
>Terry Swift wrote:
>
>> Maybe if the "Originators" of both this list, 3si, and the 3000GT
>List got together and went before Mitsu (USA - Pierre Gagnon, CEO and
>Japan if necessary) to explain the problem from their overall
>perspective, then maybe we could get some action. As individuals, our
>wonderful Mitsu Corp folks, couldn't care less, as long as we keep
>opening our wallets to them.  Mitsu is in a world of hurt financially,
>along with Nissan, so maybe they would listen to a dollars and cents
>approach.  Of course nobody wants to keep shelling out money to
>rebuild a tranny, but if parts are more readily available, I think
>people would be willing to stay with the brand - but as long as they
>keep the upper hand and make us buy a whole unit - probably thinking
>greater dollars and cents on this one - the 3si community will
>continue to shrink.  I've got a car that's really worth about $12,500
>on the market, but with grinding synchros, my value drops a couple of
>grand.  Law of Economics says to ditch it !
>wh!
>> ile I can get what I can or continue to loose money hand over fist
>due to continued problems.
>> --
>>
>> On Wed, 05 May 1999 16:06:45   wce wrote:
>> >Kevin;
>> >
>> >The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's just a
>little different to
>> >do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other topics
>interspersed,  lack
>> >of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes it
>difficult...but not
>> >impossible.
>> >
>> >Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he manged a
>"one time only" order
>> >of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the bull
>by the horns and
>> >organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing some
>serious investigative
>> >work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results again and
>aftermarket sources
>> >he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for splines.
>One, which Jack posted,
>> >was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the better of
>the two. Again, if
>> >we have all of the information, material, and people in one room, a
>solution/new
>> >fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This topic may
>be a good thing to
>> >have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and shake
>hands. How about making
>> >(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering from
>this point on. That way,
>> >maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag, valve
>train, etc, etc. With
>> >the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the list is
>endless...in one
>> >gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like Forrest's old
>place, endless
>> >beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do or
>solve. Treat it as a
>> >classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the
>problem/parts to be improved
>> >upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the next
>generation who are herein
>> >offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate for all
>(holiday city). Who'd
>> >want to miss it.
>> >
>> >Darc
>> >
>> >Kevin Schappell wrote:
>> >
>> >> I have been following this thread for a while and I can not help
>be a
>> >> little scared that my tranny will fly apart anytime soon.  I
>think with
>> >> this many people on the list we could band together and make our
>own parts.
>> >>  I work in an aluminum foundry with a pretty good machine shop
>doing all
>> >> the CNC programming and engineering.  If we could get a group of
>people
>> >> together, define the problems with the tranny's and then get the
>parts made
>> >> we could possibly solve the problems.  The syncro's seem to be
>the main
>> >> problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made
>of
>> >> brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background
>or the
>> >> drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
>> >>
>> >> Kevin Schappell
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>> >
>>
>> HotBot - Search smarter.
>> http://www.hotbot.com
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 07:09:04 1999
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From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:04:01 -0400
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I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just tell me where to send them.
Bryan
----------
From: Jim Berry[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:44 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

band together and make our own parts.

>

I tried several times about a month ago to get some used syncros to take to
a restoration machine shop in southern Ca. [ they make restoration parts for
Ferrari - lambo etc. ]. I would like a used set to take in to see if it's feasible and
to get a rough idea of cost. A new set would be needed at some time but at least
some positive action would be made.

    Help me out here  ----- Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 07:09:10 1999
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From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:23:44 -0400
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE97AA.95929A40
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I talked to BRE about rebuilding my trans. prior to having Buschur =
racing perform it. What they talked to me about was a mod they would =
performed to it which would make it easier to shift, not rebuilding it. =
The mod would be the same as the dsm mod which enables you to speed =
shift. The problem was they had never done a mitsu getrag trans, didn't =
have parts to rebuild and needed a good trans to perform the mod., which =
btw cost $295 for dsm's. Any additional parts needed were extra. Their =
mod sounds interesting and if I had an extra trans I would try them, but =
I didn't want to wait, so I let Buschur rebuild it with synchro's from =
Jack. After 7k miles, I'm happy to report the car shifts great and I =
have no leaks.

Bryan

----------
From: Klusmanp@aol.com[SMTP:Klusmanp@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:03 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **

In a message dated 99-05-05 13:56:37 EDT, you write:

snip

The syncro's seem to be the main=20
problem, and from what I have seen most syncro's (sp?) are made of=20
brass/bronze/some powdered metal.  If anyone has the background or the=20
drive to work on a project like this speak up and let's do it.
  >>

I talked to a California company called BRE engines awhile back about=20
rebuilding trannys w/ bad synchros. They are a drag racing products =
company=20
that races everything from rail cars to street cars. Their cars hold =
several=20
national records (I think they sponsor a Civic, for example). They do a=20
rebuild UPGRADE for Talon/Eclipse/Laser transaxles that improves =
shifting=20
performance. An independent source confirmed that the upgrade is for =
real=20
after a test drive.

I called and talked to them about the difficulty in finding synchros for =
the=20
3000GT/Stealth and was told they have the capability for manufacturing=20
synchros out of solid brass if need be. I suggested that BRE might offer =

synchros if they got a chance to work on a tranny and take some =
measurements.=20
The guy I talked to seemed interested in the idea.

To get this ball rolling all we need to do is have someone take the =
plunge=20
and send in their bad tranny to BRE for a rebuild. I did, however, =
forget to=20
get a price for a rebuild (duuuuhhhh). First thing we need to do is =
contact=20
BRE and get an estimate on the rebuild cost and the price for individual =
and=20
partial/full sets of synchros.=20

=20

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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE97AA.95929A40--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 07:23:29 1999
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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 15G turbo specs
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:23:09 +0200
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Hi

I wonder what makes a 15G a 15G.

Does anyone have the specs for a 15G turbo? How big is the inlet, outlet, shaft, trim level etc. All info I can get is great.

I also want to know the outside diameter of the inlet (from air filter) and outlet (to intercooler) of the turbo.

I ask this because I have found a company that performs 15g conversions for a very good price (in Sweden) but since the VR-4 are  so rare here I want to double check the specs so I don't get f...ed.

Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 07:42:34 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:47:06 -0400
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Is anyone going to the Ocean City Maryland event that is interested in
working on reproducing parts?  Maybe we can get together and try to work
out a game plan.  If anyone is going and can bring a syncro that would be
great.  I will be there early Saturday morning and I am not sure if I will
stay till Sunday.  E-mail me off of the list if you will be there and then
we can plan something.
I agree with David that forcing Mitsu to make the parts available would be
a better option.  No liability but would we get a stronger syncro?


Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

-----Original Message-----
From: S J Cowan [SMTP:sjc0u812@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 9:55 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
>> >Kevin;
>> >
>> >The brains are certainly gathered here and the talent...it's just a
>little different to
>> >do on-line brain storming with the time lags involved, other topics
>interspersed,  lack
>> >of being a physical room to examine material, etc. It makes it
>difficult...but not
>> >impossible.
>> >
>> >Jack certainly is knowledgeable about the synchros, as he manged a
>"one time only" order
>> >of some, and perhaps could input if someone really grabs the bull
>by the horns and
>> >organizes a "real" brainstorming situation. Paul was doing some
>serious investigative
>> >work on this not long ago and maybe can post the results again and
>aftermarket sources
>> >he found...I believe there were 2 different outlets for splines.
>One, which Jack posted,
>> >was reported to have superhardened metal, so might be the better of
>the two. Again, if
>> >we have all of the information, material, and people in one room, a
>solution/new
>> >fabrication would not likely be that hard to achieve.This topic may
>be a good thing to
>> >have a gathering for, instead of meeing to polish cars and shake
>hands. How about making
>> >(at least) one topic like this the theme of each gathering from
>this point on. That way,
>> >maybe some serious solutions will arise to: brakes, getrag, valve
>train, etc, etc. With
>> >the likes of Barry, Jack, Brad, Todd, Rich, Bob, Ken...the list is
>endless...in one
>> >gathering with a sharp focus (with a warehouse like Forrest's old
>place, endless
>> >beer)...and there ain't nothing I don't think we cann't do or
>solve. Treat it as a
>> >classroom: bring pictures, hardware, and examples of the
>problem/parts to be improved
>> >upon. We have the brains and all the willing help of the next
>generation who are herein
>> >offering services. Next thing...time and place appropriate for all
>(holiday city). Who'd
>> >want to miss it.
>> >
>> >Darc
>> >


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 08:02:08 1999
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From: "Brad Younkman" <stealth@digitalexp.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <01BE97AA.91BD7660@slip129-37-199-100.ga.us.ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:02:23 -0500
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Maybe somebody could take a picture of the different parts and put it on the
3SI website so whoever has a contact on having these made can show them and
get a rough idea on how much they will cost to be made.

Brad #078
91 Dodge Stealth RT TT


----- Original Message -----
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 9:04 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **


> I have a set of used 1-2-3-4 synchro's you can have, just tell me where to
send them.
> Bryan
> ----------
> From: Jim Berry[SMTP:fastmax@home.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 8:44 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
>
> band together and make our own parts.
>
> >
>
> I tried several times about a month ago to get some used syncros to take
to
> a restoration machine shop in southern Ca. [ they make restoration parts
for
> Ferrari - lambo etc. ]. I would like a used set to take in to see if it's
feasible and
> to get a rough idea of cost. A new set would be needed at some time but at
least
> some positive action would be made.
>
>     Help me out here  ----- Jim Berry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 09:10:04 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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----
From: David Margrave

>
>I tend to lean in favor of organizing a class action lawsuit which I think would be more persuasive
than >sending the CEO a "Dear Sir, ... signed, Concerned Customer" letter.  I was very close to
inquiring with a >couple law firms, but stopped to find out what progress the previous legal saber
rattling on the 3000gt.com >web board had went.  Answer: nowhere yet.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

We need to initiate more than one solution !! A class action lawsuit, if feasible
will take years to resolve. I for one will need parts in the next 6 months. My
second gear synchro is in its final stages of life.
Appearently Turboharry is working on something back east but I don't have
any solid information. I think their working on developing a 6 speed parts
supplier.
As for our European contingent I know there's a lot of racing fabrication going
on in Europe. Any chance of developing a supplier from that group.
Other items like bearings are probably easier, I doubt getrag manufactures
its own bearings. The bearings should be stamped with mfg. codes  which
might allow us to track down a supplier. For example my Yamaha V-Max
needed a front fork bearing --- Yamaha wanted $55 --- I got the same part
from a bearing supplier for $18

              Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 11:40:49 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gas mileage Question
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<<  I can't see how it's possible to get 32MPG! >>

I just moved from CA to Florida, and I-40 in Arizona and New Mexico had 50
mph tailwinds.  Normally I get 16 mpg city and 20-22 highway.  With the
tailwind, though, I measured 29 mpg at 79 mph.  Remember, though, that many
stock odometers are about 3% optimistic (so it may have been "only" 28 mpg,
yet far more than I ever expected).  My wife's MR2 usually got 24 mpg best,
and on that same stretch passed 30 mpg.
Henry
'92 TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 11:57:31 1999
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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 20:54:56 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems
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> Sounds to me like you need a plugs and wires change.  My car exhibited
> much the same.  New plugs (gapped to 0.034) and wires changed all that
> for me.

Well, this may help but does not explain the popping sound he (name ?) noticed.

Usually, if your engine acts like this, boost is getting lost due to a leak
between the turbos and the throttle body. The popping you hear sounds like a
defect valve to me and I doubt that the turbos are the problem. Also the timing
could be off as this would cause the behaviour you described too but doesn't
explains the "pop" to me.

First, check all the hoses and pipes between the turbos, IC's and trottlebody.
Especially check the hoses running up to the y-pipe and look for cracks. Such a
crack would not cause a leak until boost exceeds an amount and then can open
pretty quick. This may cause the sound you hear. Also check the hose running
down to the by-pass valve and check the mounting of it too.

If you have a problem, please always add your mods or changes to the post as
this would make it easier to give you some advice :)

Hope this helps,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 13:10:04 1999
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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 14:55:36 -0500
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems
In-Reply-To: <3731E580.BA9CD21@swissonline.ch>
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At 08:54 PM 5/6/99 +0200, you wrote:
>> Sounds to me like you need a plugs and wires change.  My car exhibited
>> much the same.  New plugs (gapped to 0.034) and wires changed all that
>> for me.
>
>Well, this may help but does not explain the popping sound he (name ?)
noticed.

I am coming in late, but it sounds like it might be jumping time. Maybe a
worn timing belt? Maybe coolant leaked and damaged the belt. Just a thought.
>
Rich/old poop
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 13:34:20 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: More Turbo problems
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Roger:

>Well, this may help but does not explain the popping sound he (name ?)
>noticed.

You may be right, but my car did make a "popping noise" under heavy
acceleration in 5th until I did the change.  Later I attributed it to be
a misfire.  <shrug>  Once I did the change, the car has never run better
and the world was a better place to pass on the highway.

Regards,

SJ
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 15:17:25 1999
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> You may be right, but my car did make a "popping noise" under heavy
> acceleration in 5th until I did the change.  Later I attributed it to be
> a misfire.

Yes, this was under heavy load. Unfortunately, it's very hard to determine the
sound if not heard by myself. I agree with you on the wires and plugs to be
changed if they are old or do have a high milage. But it's an investment and for
some of us not easy to do by ourselfs. Anyway, if the tubing/hoses are ok the
wires plugs are the next step :)

Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 15:49:24 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Raising compression in an NA
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Instead of trying to use a supercharger or other forced-induction
system, How high can I raise the compression? Is there a formula that
can be used to get a compression ratio without valve problems. Is the
valve clearance listed in the repair manual? Thanks

Matt
#311
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 16:39:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 19:25:48 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries
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Well, I am 21 and I have taken the intake plenum off of my vehicle several
times for multiple reasons.  I can tell you, the first time, there can be
alot to remember, a manual can be handy  just in case  you forget your
vaccuum  hose routings.  I think you can do it without  disconnecting any
vaccuum hoses (not sure though).  I have the manual with full vacuum hose
layout and mapping and a help section to assist you in removing the plenum if
you would be interested in having a copy.  As far as I remember,  you have 
to unbolt the     the throttle body, an intake pipe, the injector controller
up top, the egr pipes on the back, you can either unbolt the egr valve, or
disconnect the vacuum hoses to  it and  pull it out with the  plenum,  lets
see, you probably have to take your y pipe out and that's the bulk of  the
process.   ((A couple of tips)) the throttle  body has 4 bolts on the left,
and one bolt you might not be aware of on the backside near the bottum, 
*NOTE* when unbolting the throttle body, notice the nipple on the gasket and
remember it's position. And, to the best of my knowledge....when bolting the
throttle body back on, it is easiest to hand tighten the four main bolts not
too tight and make sure every thing lines up with the gasket holes, and it
makes it easier to install the rear bottum bolt mentioned above.  I have had
difficulty lining up  that paticular bolt after bolting the  four main bolts
too tight. GOOD LUCK  hope i helped :o)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 19:31:37 1999
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Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 21:03:29 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Syntec -Vs- Mobil 1    Oil pressure issue
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Darc,

I think we are seeing this because the oil's viscosity doesn't go up
until the oil (Castrol Syntec) gets _VERY_ hot.  Like I said, the oil
pressure will get up there if you are driving 70-80 with the air
conditioning on for a sustained period.

Regards,
Lynn

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Team;
>
> The low pressure "may"  be eleviated with a flush to clean out the ole system. My guess is
> it needs the gunk and cooked oil cleaned out from high temps ......then go with Mobil 1
> 10-30. Back in my muscle car youth (another ole poop- -who here isn't)  I swore by
> Castrol, but I am a firm advocate of Mobil 1 now and will stay so,  unless something
> better comes along. Life is not static.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May  6 23:40:58 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries
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Henri,
Are you ever in for a project!!!  Set aside an afternoon, yes the whole
afternoon, if this is the first time youhave swapped the pleg wires.  Go to
the Dodge dealership and get the intake plenum gasket, around $10, and remove
the plenum.  There is somewhere on the web that has the steps and the
diagrams for this.  Sorry i forgot where exactly it was.  It may be in the 3S
system, but not sure.  I know it deals with 3S though.  If your not up to
surfing the web goto the nearest Pepboys or the equivelant in your area (not
sure about Napa) and pick up the 1990 on Foreign or Domestic car manual by
Chiltons and they will give you the steps for just about everything, for the
3S.  That is around $22.  And pretty good but pretty big also.  I found that
by accident.  I am going to buy it because the service manual through Dodge
is around $40 or so.  But that is the only Servicing guide that i have foound
so far.  I think the average time to do this job on the first time is 2-3 hrs.
good Luck
\
Dan
91 ES
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 03:27:41 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 03:27:33 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: SoCoDrnkr@aol.com
<SoCoDrnkr@aol.com>

-----------snip-----------
|sure about Napa) and pick up the 1990 on Foreign or Domestic car
manual by
|Chiltons and they will give you the steps for just about
everything, for the
|3S.  That is around $22.  And pretty good but pretty big also.  I
found that
|by accident.  I am going to buy it because the service manual
through Dodge
|is around $40 or so.  But that is the only Servicing guide that i
have foound
|so far.  I think the average time to do this job on the first time
is 2-3 hrs.
|good Luck

About all the info you're going to get in the Chilton's is how to
change plugs...  They do just fine for lots of other cars, but not
S/3ks...  There have been discussions on this before, and that's the
consensus from several other owners.  Spring for the Dodge/Mitsu
manual or go for the big bucks for the full set of (2) manuals--
$59.00 + $10.47 shipping and tax.  Call 1-800-890-4038 to order.  If
I remember correctly, there's also an explanation and pictures
somewhere on Eric's website, www.3Si.org .  Good luck, and watch
your knuckles on the back plugs!  :-)

Forrest


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 04:09:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 13:11:20 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Raising compression in an NA
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AFAIK, the compression is already high (10.6:1 I guess) and I wouldn't go higher
than 11:1. But this can only be done by working the heads down or using a
thinner gasket. In my point of view it gives you only about 2-5% more power if
the job is done right. But the cost for the job is pretty high :(

Regards,
Roger

> system, How high can I raise the compression? Is there a formula that
> can be used to get a compression ratio without valve problems. Is the
> valve clearance listed in the repair manual? Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 04:15:12 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Ahem.....newbie discoveries
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 07:15:27 -0400
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Another good place to check for manuals is on Ebay. I snagged both manuals
for $50 total with shipping, in mint condition.  Only hitch was that they
were for a 1993 3000GT, and not Stealth...but thats not too big a deal. Also
got a beautiful 1993 Dodge Performance book with nice Stealth pics & info in
it for dirt cheap.

-Mike
'93 Stealth ES

> consensus from several other owners.  Spring for the Dodge/Mitsu
> manual or go for the big bucks for the full set of (2) manuals--
> $59.00 + $10.47 shipping and tax.  Call 1-800-890-4038 to order.  If
> I remember correctly, there's also an explanation and pictures
> somewhere on Eric's website, www.3Si.org .  Good luck, and watch
> your knuckles on the back plugs!  :-)
>
> Forrest
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 05:49:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 08:49:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise question
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I'm having the exact same thing going on with my valves right now too.   If
you figure it out, please let me know.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 05:54:27 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Oil Capacity issue 4.2 or 4.9 quarts?
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I have a concern with the proper oil capacity when having my oil changed.
My Diamond Star Service manual (98$) from Mitsubishi sais  the proper oil
capacity is 4.9 quarts, however......Every oil change place I go to sais the
capacity or  recomended fill level is only 4.2 quarts.  This concerns me,
seing as how my lash valve  has failed on another engine before, due to
having too much oil in the vehicle......it was actually overfilled by 2
quarts (not by me), so at this point,  to  me....having .7 quarts too much or
not enough oil in my vehicle concerns me........what's  the word???? 4.2 or
4.9?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 06:32:32 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Capacity issue 4.2 or 4.9 quarts?
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I use 5 quarts every time i change it. The level is fine...

Wayne


At 07:54 AM 5/7/99 , you wrote:
>I have a concern with the proper oil capacity when having my oil changed.
>My Diamond Star Service manual (98$) from Mitsubishi sais  the proper oil
>capacity is 4.9 quarts, however......Every oil change place I go to sais the
>capacity or  recomended fill level is only 4.2 quarts.  This concerns me,
>seing as how my lash valve  has failed on another engine before, due to
>having too much oil in the vehicle......it was actually overfilled by 2
>quarts (not by me), so at this point,  to  me....having .7 quarts too much or
> not enough oil in my vehicle concerns me........what's  the word???? 4.2 or
>4.9?


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 06:43:33 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: ACT clutch story and some news
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 08:46:30 -0500
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Hey everyone,

Well, after some tense moments on Monday and Tuesday, I did get my ACT
clutch installed and I must say, I really like it.  The pedal pressure
increased slightly and you have to give it a little gas when letting 1st
gear out, but it definatly has a lot of grip.  I can't wait for my 500 mile
break in period to be over so I can really test it.  ;)  In case you don't
remember my earlier post about my rivit problem, I'll recap.  The dealer
called me before they put my clutch in and said that there were only 2
rivits holding in one side of the disk.  They thought it was a bad design or
a defect.  I call ACT, and discovered that it was a defect.  ACT was really
nice and overnighted a new one directly to the dealer.  On Tuesday, the
dealer got the new disk and got the install done that day.  I'm thankful
that Wayzata Mitsu discovered the defect before installing the clutch.  And,
I was satisfied with the customer service that ACT supplied in dealing with
the problem.  Wow, a happy ending, huh?  :)

My "news" portion of this e-mail is to let you all know that my "Minnesota
3/S" group got together last Saturday for a little cruise around Minnesota.
If you want to read about our outing, go to:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/5641/rural.html

Thats all for now,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 06:49:29 1999
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From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Capacity issue 4.2 or 4.9 quarts?
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 07:51:18 -0600
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The spec sheets show 4.2 Qt  (4.0 L) for the crankcase and 0.5 Qt  (0.3 L)
for the filter.  This may be where the oil change places are getting their
numbers from.  Be careful, most oil change places do not replace the crush
ring on the oil drain plug.  They also use off brand filters (sometimes).


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth


>
>At 07:54 AM 5/7/99 , you wrote:
>>I have a concern with the proper oil capacity when having my oil changed.
>>My Diamond Star Service manual (98$) from Mitsubishi sais  the proper oil
>>capacity is 4.9 quarts, however......Every oil change place I go to sais
the
>>capacity or  recomended fill level is only 4.2 quarts.  This concerns me,
>>seing as how my lash valve  has failed on another engine before, due to
>>having too much oil in the vehicle......it was actually overfilled by 2
>>quarts (not by me), so at this point,  to  me....having .7 quarts too much
or
>> not enough oil in my vehicle concerns me........what's  the word???? 4.2
or
>>4.9?
>


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 07:25:16 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Capacity issue 4.2 or 4.9 quarts?
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Strange...

My Mitsu Service Manual says (from page 00-47):

  4.5qts (Non-Turbo)
  4.9qts (Turbo)

Of course these are the total capacities (including the filter
and the cooler).  I recall seeing somewhere else that the crankcase
capacity was 4.2qts, thus the rest is probably accounted for in the
filter/cooler.  (Most shops tend to latch onto the 4.2 number.)

I found that most places tend to underfill the oil.  As a result, I've
found the best way to know how much they put in is to bring them 5
quarts of Mobil 1 and simply check how much is left in the 5th quart.
(I consistently have to pour in extra before leaving the shop.)

  -JD


> The spec sheets show 4.2 Qt  (4.0 L) for the crankcase and 0.5 Qt  (0.3 L)
> for the filter.  This may be where the oil change places are getting their
> numbers from.  Be careful, most oil change places do not replace the crush
> ring on the oil drain plug.  They also use off brand filters (sometimes).
>
>
> Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth

____________________________________________________________________________
    __________  ____________
   / ____/ __ \/ ____/ ____/                          John C. Davidson
  / __/ / / / / / __/ __/
/ /__ / /_/ / /_/ / /__                         email: jd@edge-software.com
/_____/_____/\____/_____/                        voice: (512) 371-EDGE
                          Inc.                     fax: (512) 371-3351
_____S O F T W A R E________________________________________________________

  "Success depends on having the EDGE."       http://www.edge-software.com 
____________________________________________________________________________
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 07:28:01 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Capacity issue 4.2 or 4.9 quarts?
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Sorry about including the sig on that last post, as well as the extra
bandwidth wasted by this explanation. ;)

  -JD


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 09:55:44 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: new digital pressure guage
Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 12:59:30 -0400
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Was just looking through a design magazine and saw a cool looking pressure
guage.  Check out the site http://www.keyence.com/sensors/ap30.htm#2  I
talked to the company and the price is $179.00.  A little steep but if you
want a fast and accurate guage it might be worth it.


Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 11:46:44 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 20:45:43 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> guage.  Check out the site http://www.keyence.com/sensors/ap30.htm#2  I
> talked to the company and the price is $179.00.

You can have this much cheaper ! Get a 3bar GM MAP sensor for $49 (0-5V) and a
3-4 digit LED display kit (voltmeter, about $20) Depending on the voltage the
meter can display you now have to add an amplifier to change the readout to be
shown in the appropriate scale (cost around $5) That's it, you have your digital
gauge :)

The biggest problem is ... where do you mount it :) Also check out the
"Intellitronix" digital gauges that come already in a 2 1/16" case (should have
a boost gauge soon).

// Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 12:10:35 1999
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Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 15:21:31 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
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I had the same problem and refused to believe that it could have been
the plugs or wires since my car only has 14K miles on it,  although
it is 3 years old.  Well last week I changed my plugs (NGK's) and
put in some Magnecor wires, and the miss firing is gone!
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors

R.G. wrote:
>
> > You may be right, but my car did make a "popping noise" under heavy
> > acceleration in 5th until I did the change.  Later I attributed it to be
> > a misfire.
>
> Yes, this was under heavy load. Unfortunately, it's very hard to determine the
> sound if not heard by myself. I agree with you on the wires and plugs to be
> changed if they are old or do have a high milage. But it's an investment and for
> some of us not easy to do by ourselfs. Anyway, if the tubing/hoses are ok the
> wires plugs are the next step :)
>
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 15:14:31 1999
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For a longer time I successfully use the Bremsa crossdrilled/slotted disks
together with Pagid RS-R (orange) pads. About 4 weeks ago I was on a small track
and did my yearly driving brush-up but on higher speeds than the last times.
Braking was very good and compared to all of the other cars I had the best
braking distance :)

Unfortunately, something bad happened to the brakes then as it seemed that I can
hear more noise when the car is running slowly. Looking at the rotors (disks) I
noticed some new grooves in them. As I have a set of z-Mevius pads sitting on
the floor I thought it is a good time to change the pads to find out how they
work. As I removed the Pagids and looked at the pads surface I was somewhat
shocked : They had holes in the surface, about 8mm dia and 2-3mm deep. The dia
is exactly the size of the holes in the rotors and it seems that the pads could
not withstand the material of the rotors, especially around the holes. I
immediately called Bremsa and they agreed to send them back to Pagid for further
investigations.

I remember that I was maybe not driving easy and long enough to cool the brakes
down after the final, extra heavy lap on the track. We then parked the cars
after a cool down phase and the turbo-timer was up to about 38 seconds. The air
was about 13°C or lower and good conditions to let the car cool down and I
really though it is enough. But it really seems that the pads had time to bond
to the rotors, more on the outside than on the inside (due to the size of the
holes).

Conclusion : I wait for the investigation results by Pagid and will post them
here. Also, do not only let the engine/turbos cool down but give the brakes an
extra lap to cool them down.

BTW, I've put the z-Mevius in and noticed that the pad area is about 5mm smaller
to the outside of the disks. In my opinion, this is too small, even smaller than
the stock pads ! The Pagids where about 1/2mm too large so they "hung" a little
over the disks edge. The Mevius work good so far.

Later,
Roger


-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 18:39:56 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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Jim Berry responded to

> ----
>  David Margrave"s
>
> >
> >I tend to lean in favor of organizing a class action lawsuit which I think would be more persuasive
> than >sending the CEO a "Dear Sir, ... signed, Concerned Customer" letter.  I was very close to
> inquiring with a >couple law firms, but stopped to find out what progress the previous legal saber
> rattling on the 3000gt.com >web board had went.  Answer: nowhere yet.
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

with the following

> We need to initiate more than one solution !! A class action lawsuit, if feasible
> will take years to resolve. I for one will need parts in the next 6 months. My
> second gear synchro is in its final stages of life.
> Appearently Turboharry is working on something back east but I don't have
> any solid information. I think their working on developing a 6 speed parts
> supplier.
> As for our European contingent I know there's a lot of racing fabrication going
> on in Europe. Any chance of developing a supplier from that group.
> Other items like bearings are probably easier, I doubt getrag manufactures
> its own bearings. The bearings should be stamped with mfg. codes  which
> might allow us to track down a supplier. For example my Yamaha V-Max
> needed a front fork bearing --- Yamaha wanted $55 --- I got the same part
> from a bearing supplier for $18
>
>

All of these ideas are good, and were I there instead of here, I believe I would  (shoulda coulda) have
the pertinent information of this thread (Paul?) stored for posterity for the above reasons. A group
solution is possible and likely with the brilliant fabricator, who will in all likelihood be someone who
someone here knows, or who is their brother in law, boss, etc. However, has anyone considered contacting
60 minutes, or Nader? Both are saber rattlers, and love to wail on big organizations like this one;
organizations who act impervious and are not about to stoop to the petty needs of their customer
regardless of their clear liability. The squeaky wheel gets the grease, and when it comes to David and
Goliath, the populace sees few cheering for the giant.

Best

Darc   (Canada)

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May  7 19:49:58 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: RH drive shaft
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now that the clutch is done, I can't get the darn thing back in!  any advice here?


"Barry E. King" wrote:

> These things can be a PITA.  They have a spring clip of some sort.  Prying
> by itself won't usually cut it.  What you need to try and do is get a big
> wedged pry bar in there and whack it pretty hard with a bit of pressure on
> the pry bar to push the shaft outwards.  I have seen people with "the knack"
> do it with one simple blow.  The percussion seems to pop the snap ring and
> with the ouutward pressure, off it comes.  I was not able to pry mine off.
> Popping it with a blow or two did it.  The half shafts gave me the most
> trouble.  I doubt I could pull it off twice in a row.  On one side I simply
> pulled it off the knuckle since the bnoot was already in need of
> replacement.  Even though I had one side off I simply could not get the
> other one to budge.  *shrug*
>
> Hope that helps.
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> >
> > I'm doing a clutch replacement and can't get the RH drive shaft out of
> > the transmission.  The shop manual calls for prying against the housing
> > to remove the shaft rather than trying to pull it out, but I can't get
> > it to budge more the the tiny amount of in/out play the shaft has.  It
> > seems like there's a clip holding it in, but nowhere does it specify any
> > special steps to remove a clip.  Has anyone been through this before?
> >
> > Dave
> > '91 RT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 06:15:43 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: For Sale - Blitz turbo timer
Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 08:10:06 -0500
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I have a Blitz Turbo Timer for sale.  It has never been used and is still in
the box.  This is the basic model.  It counts down the time that you preset.

1/4 din size, gray color.
I also have a VR-4/TT specific wiring harness to make installation a breeze.

I'll let it go for $50 w/o harness, or $70 with harness.

Oskar

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 09:26:29 1999
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From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <199905081315.GAA03021@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Service Manuals
Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 11:27:51 -0500
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Just another newbie reminder, if you have any of the service manuals
already, you can purchase the manuals on CD-ROM and use them instead of
mucking up your real paper manuals. Some of the manuals on the CD are out of
print and quite hard to find. There are other advantages to having them on
CD too!

The www site has been totally redone with a separate section for 3/S owners
and DSM owners. The layout is virtually identical, and MUCH easier to
navigate. Tell me what you all think!. For those of you that do have the CD
manual's, please send some feedback my way to see how I can improve it
(since it's a CD-R, I can implement changes very easily).

If you need more info, check out the www site in my tag-line. Also, any A/T
3/S member is welcome to join the other site I now am in charge of, "Club
DSM A/T (automatic)".

About the A/T Vr-4's, I was told there was no such thing, that would be
great if someone could find more info about such a mythical car :). Are
there any Galant Vr4's with a/t? (91/92 US editions only).

Vineet Singh
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"

(Sorry if this sounded like an ad, I didn't think it did, and since all this
service manual talk was going around, and I didn't get mentioned, I thought
it would be relevant to say something. Thanks for understanding!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 15:34:09 1999
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Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 18:34:02 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Engine steam!!!! 
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Yesterday I did an oil flush, and switched to mobil one synthetic oil.
My oil pressure has actually gotten a little worse off since then,  the
needle use to go half way up while the engine warmed up and now it barely
makes it to the first big mark during startup.  Another thing......after
doing the flush and change, I drove my car from Chattanooga, Tn to Nashville,
Tn (137 miles) and along the way I pulled over and I had Steam coming out
from behind my firewall, and the engine seemed extremely hot back there near
the rear turbo  around the firewall.  My heat sheild that is connected to the
big black intake pipe is warped.  Any ideas on what may be going on??   Since
I did the flush and change....my results haven't seemed to be so
impressive................92  All Stock Vr-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 15:41:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 18:41:11 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Vacuum  problem
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I was actually stupid  enough to take my car into another Mitsubishi
dealership to  have general diagnostics ran...... They came up with......my
car is running 13  inches of vacuum and they say it is supposed to  be
running around 18 inches of vacuum.  Also and EGR flow code is on, and the
temp. sensor is reading 10 degrees F.  They  said this could be causing my
turbo problem......and it could be due to improper valve timing or a vacuum
leak.  The problem is......They don't know how to check the valve
timing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  So my car is sitting and a "Mater Tech" ((supposively))
Is having to wait until monday to call Mitsubishi to  see  what to do!!!!!! 
Any ideas or opinions??  I'm going to be looking for a vacuum leak.....but if
anyone has any ideas on where to start or anything ....please let me know... 
Any word on how to check the valve timing??  Oh  yeah....my timing belt
checked out in time........and my ignition timing is on.....but the tech said
just  because the timing belt lines match up and show it's in time.....it
doesn't mean the cams are in time........Mitsubishi has never shown me they 
know how to work on their cars.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 16:08:12 1999
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> needle use to go half way up while the engine warmed up and now it barely
> makes it to the first big mark during startup.

Of course this depends on the viscosity of the oil you used. This sounds like
0W-40 to me.

> from behind my firewall, and the engine seemed extremely hot back there near
> the rear turbo  around the firewall.  My heat sheild that is connected to the
> big black intake pipe is warped.

What heat shield ? There is no heat shield attached to any intake pipe ! The
only shields are around the front turbo and one attached to the rear IC pipe
comming from the turbo. As it is black too I think you are referring to this.

I usually tend to sound negative and always see bad things behind such messages.
But here's my look into the the things:

The engine flush (if done correctly) frees up some old/snake oil deposits and
get everything (dirt, metal, coins <g>...) into the oil filter. You did not tell
us but I think you changed the oil-filter too (at least I hope so). A drawback
from an engine flush (if not done well) could be that some of this deposit
cloggs up the oil lines to/from the turbos. A result would be that this stuff in
the line is getting damn hot and cannot be cooled as the fresh oil cannot get to
the turbo shaft to cool it. The dirt finally will getting very hot together with
the turbo itselfs.... and burns the turbo seals. This will cause a somewhat
darker steam (brunt oil) compared to white/blue steam from boiled coolant. The
later is also possible as the coolant that runs through the turbos will also get
very hot and due to the broken seals will boil. As you say that the heat shield
behind the manifold got bent I can only suppose that the rear turbo is finally
gone :(( I just hope that the given signs will finally not confirm my conclusion
!

Have you noticed the water temperature raised a little too ?

Good luck,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 16:23:10 1999
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> car is running 13  inches of vacuum and they say it is supposed to  be
> running around 18 inches of vacuum.  Also and EGR flow code is on, and the
> temp. sensor is reading 10 degrees F.

The EGR code could be caused by the EGR valve that got toasted by the excessive
heat that came from outside the path. If the temperature readout is totally off
(damaged temp sensor in the MAS) for sure the ECU selects a different fuel map
and this could explain the behaviour in the past ! First let them totally check
the MAS and the connector/wires to it. This can be done by removing the plug and
using a voltmeter and a hairdryer. The procedure is fully explained in the
workshop manual. If this problem is solved (hopefully only bad contacts) then go
to the next step in getting your car back onto the road.

> They don't know how to check the valve timing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wrong dealer !

> Is having to wait until monday to call Mitsubishi to  see  what to do!!!!!!
> Any ideas or opinions??  I'm going to be looking for a vacuum leak.

As I already mentioned, if the ECU is reading a totally off temperature, it will
never selects the appropriate fuel table. Therefore the vaccum could be
different too as the ECU controls the idle stepper motor. If it is more open the
vacuum is closer to 0 than with a correct behaviour.

> Any word on how to check the valve timing??  Oh  yeah....my timing belt
> checked out in time........and my ignition timing is on.....but the tech said
> just  because the timing belt lines match up and show it's in time.....it
> doesn't mean the cams are in time........Mitsubishi has never shown me they
> know how to work on their cars.

So he supposes then that the cam gears are mounted off. AFAIK, this is not
possible due to the bolts, but I'm not 100% sure.

Good luck Nr.2
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 20:26:34 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RH drive shaft
Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 22:26:18 -0500
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> now that the clutch is done, I can't get the darn thing back in!
> any advice here?

Line it up straight, compress the joints by pushing on the outer end and
whack the end of the shaft with a rubber mallet.  Should pop right in...  If
you don't have a mallet, a slightly less sophisticated approach is to just
line it up and give the whole assembly a good hard shove and it should pop
in after a few tries.

-Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 20:55:01 1999
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Date: Sat, 08 May 1999 23:56:17 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
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I think I would take the car (unless it's under warranty and that's the
only Mitsu dealer around) to another mechanic...someone that knows what
they're doing, if only for a second opinion.

Bill Wagner

MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> I was actually stupid  enough to take my car into another Mitsubishi
> dealership to  have general diagnostics ran...... They came up with......my
> car is running 13  inches of vacuum and they say it is supposed to  be
> running around 18 inches of vacuum.  Also and EGR flow code is on, and the
> temp. sensor is reading 10 degrees F.  They  said this could be causing my
> turbo problem......and it could be due to improper valve timing or a vacuum
> leak.  The problem is......They don't know how to check the valve
> timing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  So my car is sitting and a "Mater Tech" ((supposively))
> Is having to wait until monday to call Mitsubishi to  see  what to do!!!!!!
> Any ideas or opinions??  I'm going to be looking for a vacuum leak.....but if
> anyone has any ideas on where to start or anything ....please let me know...
> Any word on how to check the valve timing??  Oh  yeah....my timing belt
> checked out in time........and my ignition timing is on.....but the tech said
> just  because the timing belt lines match up and show it's in time.....it
> doesn't mean the cams are in time........Mitsubishi has never shown me they
> know how to work on their cars.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May  8 21:07:25 1999
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Group;

For those of you interested in the prior scoop thread, I finally received
Todd's http's for you, so you can go there and have a "look see" yourselves.

> Mirror sites at
> http://www.brightok.net/~tds
> http://www.qsl.net/n5mya
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 12:23 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: cooling question
>
> >Hi Henri;
> >
> >As Chris noted, Bozz  makes (pricey) extraction scoops (heat extraction
> isn't a bad
> >idea), and at least one member, Todd Shelton, has forward facing ram type
> scoops where
> >these shock tower "blisters" bolt on. Visit his homepage (don't have it
> handy)...are you
> >out here Todd?
> >
> >Best
> >
> >Darc



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  9 00:57:19 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: More rotors
Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 03:01:05 -0500
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Very correct again Jack,

The hub assembly is built very strong on our cars.. Metal does fatigue
though.  Put 30% more braking force on a front hub, along with race tires..
You get way out of the "design" spec of the front end.   I agree that the
front end is very strong, but this should not be overlooked in this
dangerous situation.

The rotors are breaking in a clean ring (on the 94+ rotors)  As you know the
hub and swept area of the rotor is separated by a drilled area.  The rotor
is separating there.

Power slots have done this, along with KVR.  I suspect defective castings on
the rotors, however we will let the "experts" determine that.

> Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

I don't think flex of bearings/hub assy is large contributor here.
I have never heard of such a thing being any significant factor,
but that doesn't mean much.  However--

If true, why does no other brand of rotor do this?
Do the rotors come off as a solid ring, or are they fractured
THROUGH one of those "slots" or grooves in the rotors?

Jack

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May  9 14:42:26 1999
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Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 23:36:04 +0200
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    I removed my center gauge pod this weekend.  Surprisingly, it only
took about two hours. I was able to do this by removing the passenger
airbag to get access to the mounting screws on the back of the pod.  You
have to have a right angle ratcheting phillips screw driver through.  If
you do not have a passenger airbag, I don't think is possible to get the
gauge pod out without removing the dash.  One thing that I cannot
emphasize enough, if you do remove the airbag, YOU MUST DISCONNECT THE
BATTERY AND LET IT SIT FOR AT LEAST A MINUTE BEFORE TOUCHING THE AIRBAG
OR ITS' CONNECTIONS.  playing with the airbag is like trying to
disassemble a loaded gun  which is pointed right at your head.  If that
thing goes off while you are messing with the dash, death is very
possible.

    So now that I have the pod out, the question is what type of gauges
do I put back in.  I would like to install a dual oil pressure/temp
gauge, an engine temp gauge that has actual numbers and a real boost
gauge.  The boost gauge is easy, since I just need to relocate the one
from the gauge pod.  Now onto the others:

Oil pressure and engine temperature:  If I purchase an aftermarket
electrical gauge, can I just tap into the existing wires?  I think both
gauges are only ohm meters, so as long as they are calibrated the same I
should be OK.  However, how do I determine this without buying the gauge
and testing it?  Do all gauges use standard values?

Oil Temp:  Since this is not something the ECU monitors, I would have to
install a temp sensor.  Anyone ever done this?  And if so, do you have
to drill into the block?  I would prefer an electrical vs. mechanical
gauge.  Hopefully one that is both an oil temp and press. gauge.

Thanks,

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 03:52:40 1999
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After a month of being up on stands, waiting for parts, waiting for
tools, mangling the ball joint boots, etc. my clutch is finally done!
Now I'm a seasoned veteran, and I'd like to give thanks to everyone who
helped out.  My only observations after ~30 miles on the new clutch are
the pedal effort seems to be less than before, engagement feels
different, and I can notice a slight clutch odor after parking the car.
No slippage like before when I stomp on it in 4th or 5th.  I assume the
smell is not abnormal as the clutch gets broken in.  I'm leaving some
cardboard under it tonight, because I sure as hell want to know if
anything is leaking!

Thanks,

Dave
'91 R/T TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 08:40:33 1999
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From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Gtech Pro
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Does anyone know where to get the Gtech Pro cheap?

Thanks,
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 10:12:38 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: success!
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Dave,
  How long was your car on jack stands????  Were you
really able to do the clutch using only jack stands???
Just curious since the last time I had to replace a
fog lamp bulb in my brother's 92 VR-4 it sat on ramps
overnite. not a fun job indeed.


===
-Frank-
                                    "JEEPers"
     EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
     http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
     http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
_________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 10:50:53 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gtech Pro
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 10:50:35 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
|Does anyone know where to get the Gtech Pro cheap?
|
|Thanks,
|Gavin


I think someone mentioned recently that J.C. Whitney is now carrying
them at a discount...

F


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 13:02:01 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 16:01:50 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
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Can someone explain a little on the significance of gapping the
plugs at a smaller gap?  What are the pros and cons to changing
the factory setting (.044) to like .035.
  I just put in new NGK plugs and Magnecor wires.  The plugs came
from Mitsubishi gapped at around .044.  I have a Borla cat back
exhaust and a K&N FIPK.  I gapped the plugs at .040.  Am I doing
any harm or good?
Thanks,
        Jeff
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 13:19:40 1999
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From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Differences in Plug gap ??
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:21:36 -0600
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Jeff;

Smaller gaps are used at higher boost pressure where there is a tendency for
the high boost to literally blow the spark out before combustion can occur.
This is the stumbling at high RPM's that many people complain about when
adding a boost controller and turning up the boost.  With the modifications
you have, the stock plug gap is what you need.


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth


>Can someone explain a little on the significance of gapping the
>plugs at a smaller gap?  What are the pros and cons to changing
>the factory setting (.044) to like .035.
>  I just put in new NGK plugs and Magnecor wires.  The plugs came
>from Mitsubishi gapped at around .044.  I have a Borla cat back
>exhaust and a K&N FIPK.  I gapped the plugs at .040.  Am I doing
>any harm or good?
> Thanks,
>        Jeff
>--
> Jeff Schwartz
> 1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
> Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 14:37:35 1999
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Jeff,

This highly depends on what boost you are running on. If you plan to add a boost
controller I recommend to decrease the gap down to 0.034" as this will prevent
misfires. Usually one should expect a worser mileage with a smaller gap but I
never noticed any difference due to this.

The cat-back and filter do not play any rule here.

// Roger

> Can someone explain a little on the significance of gapping the
> plugs at a smaller gap?  What are the pros and cons to changing
> the factory setting (.044) to like .035.


-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 14:54:28 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Center Guage Pod (oil gauges)
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Hey Mike,

> Oil pressure and engine temperature:  If I purchase an aftermarket
> electrical gauge, can I just tap into the existing wires?

99% no. This because the sweep is different as well the electrical resistance.

> I think both gauges are only ohm meters

They are more volt-meters as the current that flows through the small wire in
the instrument cause a small magnetic field that finally moves the dial.
Depending on the spiral wire and the magnetic field the behaviour can be totally
different. I would measure the voltage on the stock gauge itselfs to determine
what range it runs on. Then remove it and apply the same small voltage to the
gauge with the help of an adjustable power supply. Check the voltage at the
different levels shown by the dial and watch for a linearity. With this you can
now determine what kind of gauge you need.

> Do all gauges use standard values?

No, this depends always on the type of sender they use.

> Oil Temp:  Since this is not something the ECU monitors, I would have to
> install a temp sensor.  Anyone ever done this?  And if so, do you have
> to drill into the block?  I would prefer an electrical vs. mechanical
> gauge.  Hopefully one that is both an oil temp and press. gauge.

Well, you can use an oil-stick-temp sensor. You remember the dumb rubber oil
temp sensor on the dyno ? There is a better, hard type available that can be
attached easily. It was about DM 29.90 in Germany. This one works good with the
most temp gauges that use the same type of thermocouple (I guess k-type, but
have to recheck).

The Autometer gauge I do have came with a sensor and some bolt adapters. I
expect to mount it instead of the oil drain plug in the pan. But I'm not sure if
this is the best idea as the oil temp may be lower as around the heads. This is
why I measure the heads temperature as well.

All the best,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 16:44:54 1999
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Center Guage Pod
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 19:39:31 -0400
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Can you please tell us how you took the air bag and everything apart.  I
would really appreciate it.  
Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Chapleski [mailto:mike.chapleski@ibm.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 5:36 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Center Guage Pod

    I removed my center gauge pod this weekend.
Surprisingly, it only
took about two hours. I was able to do this by removing the
passenger
airbag to get access to the mounting screws on the back of
the pod.  You
have to have a right angle ratcheting phillips screw driver
through.  If
you do not have a passenger airbag, I don't think is
possible to get the
gauge pod out without removing the dash.  One thing that I
cannot
emphasize enough, if you do remove the airbag, YOU MUST
DISCONNECT THE
BATTERY AND LET IT SIT FOR AT LEAST A MINUTE BEFORE TOUCHING
THE AIRBAG
OR ITS' CONNECTIONS.  playing with the airbag is like trying
to
disassemble a loaded gun  which is pointed right at your
head.  If that
thing goes off while you are messing with the dash, death is
very
possible.

    So now that I have the pod out, the question is what
type of gauges
do I put back in.  I would like to install a dual oil
pressure/temp
gauge, an engine temp gauge that has actual numbers and a
real boost
gauge.  The boost gauge is easy, since I just need to
relocate the one
from the gauge pod.  Now onto the others:

Oil pressure and engine temperature:  If I purchase an
aftermarket
electrical gauge, can I just tap into the existing wires?  I
think both
gauges are only ohm meters, so as long as they are
calibrated the same I
should be OK.  However, how do I determine this without
buying the gauge
and testing it?  Do all gauges use standard values?

Oil Temp:  Since this is not something the ECU monitors, I
would have to
install a temp sensor.  Anyone ever done this?  And if so,
do you have
to drill into the block?  I would prefer an electrical vs.
mechanical
gauge.  Hopefully one that is both an oil temp and press.
gauge.

Thanks,

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 17:54:31 1999
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Rock bottom price must sell.

$8500 Firm

For Sale '91 3000 GT VR-4
90k miles

Recent <3k miles months:
Tires (p7000 ss 275/40 R 245/40 F)
Transfer Case (<1000 miles brand new and warrantied)
Clutch (brand new and Warrantied)
Master/Slave Cylinders (brand new and warrantied

See Pics at
http://www.glco.com/andrew/marksvr42.jpg
http://www.glco.com/andrew/marksvr41.jpg


--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 18:34:17 1999
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it was off its wheels for a month due to various delays getting parts and tools, going
out of town for a week at a stretch, etc.  Yeah, I did it with a 3-ton floor jack,
transmission jack rented from the local rental place, and engine hoist borrowed from a
friend of a friend.  Getting the transmission out from under the car once I had it
lowered out was a little tricky.  I used the engine hoist to lift it off the jack, then
got the jack out of the way, and put a couple dozen wooden dowels underneath a piece of
plywood, and lowered the transmission onto the plywood.  Then I was able to slide it
out from under the car pretty easily, with plenty of clearance.  I call the wooden
dowel and plywood trick the "ancient egyptian" technique.



Frank Chen wrote:

> Dave,
>   How long was your car on jack stands????  Were you
> really able to do the clutch using only jack stands???
>  Just curious since the last time I had to replace a
> fog lamp bulb in my brother's 92 VR-4 it sat on ramps
> overnite. not a fun job indeed.
>
> ===
> -Frank-
>                                     "JEEPers"
>      EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
>      http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>      http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 18:42:10 1999
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Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 21:40:46 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Engine Steam...Low oil pressure Pt. 2  What do I do next?
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As I said.....I did an oil flush.... and switched to mobil 1 10w30.  that
same night (two nights ago) I drove from Chattanooga, Tn  to Nashville, Tn
(apprx. 137 miles) and I had steam which smelled like a hot engine or coolant
was coming from the firewall area seemingly underneath the rear turbo and EGR
pip area.  Since then ......I have inspected the  turbine wheel in the turbo
(while in the vehicle) and it was clean.....and seemed to be in healthy
condition.  I also checked all my vacuum lines for pinholes, cuts etc...  My
front turbo seems to have a LITTLE (not REAL bad) carbon or oil build up on
the inner wall of the housing.  I replaced  my fuel filter, and fuel pressure
regulator.  The car heated up......and the steam is back......not to the same
degree...but, none the less, still there.  My oil pressure is still low as
well (obviously). My question is....what do I do next???  Another oil flush? 
Two more oil flushes?  What do I do??
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 19:28:37 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Center Guage Pod
Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 21:22:45 -0500
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This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Mike,
brave man!  Prepare your significant other for some alone time, because
replacing the gauges will take you a while.  While you were able to remove
the center gauge pod assembly without removing the dash, you will NOT be
able to install the new gauges without removing the dash.  This btw is not
as bad as it may seem.  A repair handbook is essential to perform this
though.

> So now that I have the pod out, the question is what type of gauges
>do I put back in.  I would like to install a dual oil pressure/temp
>gauge, an engine temp gauge that has actual numbers and a real boost
>gauge.  The boost gauge is easy, since I just need to relocate the one
>from the gauge pod.

If you plan to mount your gauges behind the slanted stock lenses I recommend
that you get 52mm gauges.  I found that Autometer was the only brand that
had all the gauges I wanted in this size.  I have not seen a dual gauge for
oil temp/pressure.

>Oil pressure and engine temperature:  If I purchase an aftermarket
>electrical gauge, can I just tap into the existing wires?  I think both
>gauges are only ohm meters, so as long as they are calibrated the same I
>should be OK.  However, how do I determine this without buying the gauge
>and testing it?  Do all gauges use standard values?

The ECU does not use oil pressure, so you can discard the stock sender and
mount your aftermarket sender unit in this hole.  As for the water temp
probe, under the coil pack there are two senders for water temp.  One is for
relaying information to the ECU and the other one is for the stock gauge.
But there is also a third hole which is capped from the factory.  This you
can use for the water temp probe.

>Oil Temp:  Since this is not something the ECU monitors, I would have to
>install a temp sensor.  Anyone ever done this?  And if so, do you have
>to drill into the block?  I would prefer an electrical vs. mechanical
>gauge.  Hopefully one that is both an oil temp and press. gauge.


Find out where the manufacturer suggest installing this probe.  Depending on
the requirements for installing the oil temp sender you may be able to
install this one in the same location by using a T.

So how the heck do you install these gauges under the dash?  This is how I
went about it.  The stock gauges are all contained in one assembly.  I
discarded this, but retained the lenses (one piece) and the plate that holds
the lens to the stock gauge assembly.  Using a dremmel I carefully removed
the “half-moons” that cover up the needle base from this mounting plate.  I
then fabricated a mounting bracket for the Autometer gauges out of
high-grade 3/8” plywood.  After cutting this to size, I painted the front of
it flat black and mounted the stock lens assembly to the front of it.  I was
able to install my new assembly into the stock installation points using the
stock installation brackets.

Attached is a picture of the results.  The gauges are Autometer 2 1/16"
Phantom series: 0-100 psi electrical fuel pressure gauge, 0-100 psi
mechanical oil pressure gauge and 120-240F mechanical water temp gauge.  I
choose to mount my boost gauge on the A-pillar.

Good luck!  E-mail if you have any further questions.

Oskar,
'95 R/T TT
K&N FIPK, Magnecor wires, NGK plugs, Apex-i Super AVC-R, RS*R springs,
Stillen cross-drilled rotors, metal matrix pads, Razo pedals, Buschur short
shifter, NR white gauge faces, Autometer boost, oil pressure, water temp,
fuel pressure gauges

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 10 20:11:15 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine Steam...Low oil pressure Pt. 2  What do I do next?
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Hmmm... I assume you followed the flush instructions to the T and that should have done
the trick. Shoulda! That shoulda included changing the filter BTW.

The gauge may or may not be sending accurate information. It's suspect until proven
otherwise. Was it always on the low side or did it develop low readings only recently?

Of particular concern is the problem with this steam. Have you determined the exit point
of it yet? That is, where is it coming/venting from? It sounds like a cooling system
leak by the description and smell you relate. That being the possible case, it is
unlikely that it's related to the gauge, and that you have two separate problems. That's
unlikely, but not impossible. Things could be worse though: trouble usually comes in
threes!  Your head gaskets are okay I hope!

First  find the source of the steam as your top priority, and then immediately get your
oil pressure checked to insure that it isn't a faulty gauge...or have both done at a
reputable place. Sometimes it's worth biting the bullet if you have a reputable person
sort it out and it takes out the anxiety. However, if approaching it yourself, and if
the gauge is accurate, and if you performed the flush as directions indicate, then the
oil pump is the next item to check as being suspect. Don't drive it hard until you
determine what the oil problem is or isn't and don't drive at all if you loose pressure
entirely. Sorry but that's about all I can offer...maybe someone else has an observation
that I am missing which is self evident....forest for the trees!

Best

Darc



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 10:40:38 1999
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Subject: Team3S: AGIP oil in our Getrag
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
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My mechanic wants to put AGIP oil in my Getrag transmission as it is currently
having a new output shaft installed (I saw it this morning. We got the new
shaft from MD Auto.  The synchros looked fine). This is the 2nd recommendation
that I got for AGIP. The other place that recommended it was from an exotic
shop (Porsche). I have Redline MT90 right now (which we saved in a bottle).

I wouldn't mind trying AGIP. Is there any reason why I shouldn't?

--
'93 R/T Turbo
3SI Member 0269
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 10:52:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 19:51:39 +0200
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Subject: Re: Team3S: AGIP oil in our Getrag
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> that I got for AGIP. The other place that recommended it was from an exotic
> shop (Porsche). I have Redline MT90 right now (which we saved in a bottle).

Well, depending on how long it was in the tranny I'd reuse it or get with new
Redline. I'd not go for the Agip stuff. Redline is well proven !

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 11:26:46 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:26:05 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Steam source located
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I located the steam source.....It is coming from the exhaust !!!  I'm having
trouble locating the section and part name but.....there is a steel braided
looking section that seems to have a little flexibility in it.  The steam
seems to be seeping through the braids or something to that nature.   My
intake plenum.....and backside of the  engine seem extremely hot, but my temp
guage in the  car reads normal (notch under half way).  I changed my oil
again today.....and went back to Castrol Syntec 10w 30.  My oil pressure went
back up to were it use to be.....but still is lower than normal.  I have had
gasoline drip out of my exhaust in the past.  Assuming my exhaust may be
stopped up or clogged.....do you guys think this would cause my out take to
over heat....and the heat and exhaust back up and over work
itself.....causing the rear end of the engine area to heat up and seem so
hot?????  Another thing.....would disconnecting my exhaust and running the
car to see if it runs better be an ideal thing to do to check the exhaust for
clogging??   Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 12:51:38 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Steam source located
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:51:52 -0700
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MitsuVR41 (I keep wondering if you have a name)...

I believe you're referring to the flex section in the downpipe (it's just in
front of the main cat). While I've never had this happen to me, a Corvette
owner here at work was telling about his main cat being so clogged that the
car wouldn't run. Soooo, it sounds like you're on the right track, it could
be that you have a clogged main cat which is causing significant back
pressure on the engine. The quickest way to check is to separate the front
half of the exhaust (at the main cat) and take a look. Better yet, run it
(in the garage) with the exhaust disconnected from the precats and see if
the symptoms disappear. Best would be to pull that stock assembly and
replace it with an ATR (or similar) downpipe and high flow cat.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)


-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 11:26 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Steam source located


I located the steam source.....It is coming from the exhaust !!!  I'm having

trouble locating the section and part name but.....there is a steel braided
looking section that seems to have a little flexibility in it.  The steam
seems to be seeping through the braids or something to that nature.   My
intake plenum.....and backside of the  engine seem extremely hot, but my
temp
guage in the  car reads normal (notch under half way).  I changed my oil
again today.....and went back to Castrol Syntec 10w 30.  My oil pressure
went
back up to were it use to be.....but still is lower than normal.  I have had

gasoline drip out of my exhaust in the past.  Assuming my exhaust may be
stopped up or clogged.....do you guys think this would cause my out take to
over heat....and the heat and exhaust back up and over work
itself.....causing the rear end of the engine area to heat up and seem so
hot?????  Another thing.....would disconnecting my exhaust and running the
car to see if it runs better be an ideal thing to do to check the exhaust
for
clogging??   Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 13:52:50 1999
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From: "Gabriel Estrada" <typhoonzz@earthlink.net>
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References: <31F439059458D211AAD70008C7B14C209BE321@exchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Steam source located
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Along the line of Catalitic converters/  How hard would it be to replace the
precats with a piece of straight pipe?  Would I get a quicker turbo spool,
or would this just cause problems?  I did this on my truck and the quicker
spool was amazing.  Needed a boost controller to keep the spikes down, but
it was a dramatic increase in power.  Has anyone done this?  Not concerned
with emission laws as we don't have any.
Thanks in advance,
Gabriel Estrada
94 Pearl Yellow VR-4
92 Gmc Typhoon
----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 2:51 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Steam source located


> Soooo, it sounds like you're on the right track, it could
> be that you have a clogged main cat which is causing significant back
> pressure on the engine. The quickest way to check is to separate the front
> half of the exhaust (at the main cat) and take a look. Better yet, run it
> (in the garage) with the exhaust disconnected from the precats and see if
> the symptoms disappear. Best would be to pull that stock assembly and
> replace it with an ATR (or similar) downpipe and high flow cat.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)
>


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 14:14:40 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Taking out cats
In-Reply-To: <001701be9bf0$0c7c94a0$6e04c1cf@25438>
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>Along the line of Catalitic converters/  How hard would it be to replace the
>precats with a piece of straight pipe? 

If we are going to get into this topic, I have a few questions:

1. Why do those furshlugginer downpipes cost so dang much? It's just a
piece of SS pipe with a flange and no cats, right? Is this yet another
ripoff? 

2. Can we take all the cats off and then get through an inspection later?
Is it wise to keep the old system and stick it back on when necessary? (If
it's anything like rotors, I should be able to change it back in 10
minutes). Will a VR4 pass the 49 states emissions with just one main cat?
We don't have emission inspections in Iowa yet, but Murphy's Law says that
the very second I take down my exhaust, IDOT will start inspecting.

3. How much trouble is it to take down the entire exhaust system? Does
anyone sell a cat-less replacement?

Rich/old poop/gasp! kof!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:07:31 1999
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From: "Rice-Burner Crusher" <stealth_es@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 18:07:26 EDT
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I own a 1993 Dodge Stealth ES, and today I was giving it a very thorough
cleaning for the first time since I bought it, and I came across a couple of
things that I had questions about.

1).  Why does the rear seat bottom release and come up?  Is there something
under there, or is there room for storage?

2).  I took out the spare tire to clean up some pine needles that had fallen
into the well, and I found two loose wires behind the rear seats.  They were
both female ends, and one looked like a computer keyboard plug.  Anyone know
what these are?

3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the tires say
44 psi ..  What should I go with?

4).  How do I change the rear cargo area's light bulb?

5).  The driver's side seat belt has trouble retracting.  Is there a way to
make it work better?

Any input would be great!!


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:34:45 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Taking out cats
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> 1. Why do those furshlugginer downpipes cost so dang much? It's just a
> piece of SS pipe with a flange and no cats, right? Is this yet another
> ripoff?

Do not mix downpipe and pre-cat replacements ! A dp usually starts after the
precats and end at the main cat. Stainless steel, the right bends/welds and the
proper design makes them expensive as some handwork must be done. There are dp
available that removes the front pre-cat with a normal pipe. The rear precat
cannot be replaced due to the the complicated flange to the turbo and the little
space available.

> 2. Can we take all the cats off and then get through an inspection later?

This depends on the State / Country you're in.

> Is it wise to keep the old system and stick it back on when necessary?

In my country, yes :( Guess what I have to do next weekend ....

> 3. How much trouble is it to take down the entire exhaust system? Does
> anyone sell a cat-less replacement?

The only trouble is due to the weight of the stock system and the available room
with the car on jacks. No full free exhaust available, even the Trust system
leaves the rear pre-cat untouched. I run the car with and without the main cat
(ATR high flow cat) and never recognized any power loss.

Gutting the precats will help to free up the restriction of the exhaust much
more than any cat-back system. There are cars with stock exhaust dynoed around
550hp in Europe (one crashed in France).

// Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:34:46 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:43:28 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Chris is very right about the clogged cat and I'd definitely check it out. But I
also know of broken flex sections that got damaged and leaked. Of course this is
an exhaust leak and is very "smellable" inside the car as well as the heat will
come up the engine when not driving.

> looking section that seems to have a little flexibility in it.

The flex sections should isolate the engine vibrations from the exhaust as well
as reducing stress to the turbo mountings.

> The steam seems to be seeping through the braids or something to that nature.

Definitely broken flex section.

> My intake plenum.....and backside of the  engine seem extremely hot, but my
> temp guage in the  car reads normal (notch under half way).

Therefore the heat is generated externally the engine.

> I changed my oil again today.....and went back to Castrol Syntec 10w 30.  My
> oil pressure went back up to were it use to be.....but still is lower than
> normal.

Not a big problem so far.

> I have had gasoline drip out of my exhaust in the past.  Assuming my
> exhaust may be stopped up or clogged.....

Right assumption. Also have the O2 sensor checked as they (or only one) may be
defective and gives a wrong voltage to the ECU causing it to run over-rich. This
can cause running gas into the exhaust where it gets ignited. But this should be
very noticeable.

> Another thing.....would disconnecting my exhaust and running the
> car to see if it runs better be an ideal thing to do to check the exhaust for
> clogging??

Well, you can't check the pre-cats with this method. I'd remove the main cat and
check it out for any clogging. You can also get the front pre-cat for this
purpose.

Good luck,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:41:26 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Taking out cats - LONG
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 15:41:40 -0700
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Rich & Gabriel...

This has been discussed before, but I don't know that anyone has summarized
the thread. I'll give it a shot, anyone else feel free to jump in. Let me
preface all this by saying that any removal of cats is intended for off road
use only.

1. How hard would it be to replace the precats with a piece of straight
pipe? 

My answer...not too difficult, given that you have the ability to form the
bends, and weld the flanges. There have been a number of custom downpipes
manufactured. Most, if not all, replace the front precat and main cat, while
leaving the rear intact. This is because the angles and flanging are quite
awkward. It's important (from the flow perspective) to have mandrel bends.
Remember, the last I heard, the fine for a shop removing a cat is $10K.
Soooo, there's a limit to how many muffler shops are willing to do this work
if they don't know you well.

2. Why do those furshlugginer downpipes cost so dang much? It's just a piece
of SS pipe with a flange and no cats, right? Is this yet another rip-off?

My answer...to get a good fit, with no leaks, and no interference is not a
simple task. Aside from materials ($150?), there's labor at $65 an hour
(unless you have all the equipment at home). Again, it's not just straight
pipe with angles, but mandrel bends. It quickly becomes a $300+ venture, at
which point you're over half way to buying one. There has been some
listmembers who've tried to get precat replacements from SS and found shops
that want $300 just to design and produce one set of those.

3. Can we take all the cats off and then get through an inspection later? Is
it wise to keep the old system and stick it back on when necessary?

My answer...I don't know of a state where you could pass emissions w/o any
of the cats. This is why ATR has had a lot of success with their test
pipe/high flow cat combination. You can swap out one for the other with four
bolts (10 minutes if you fit under your car better than I fit under mine). I
think most people have kept their stock downpipe and cat...just in case. The
catback system can be recycled as it does not affect emissions.

4. Will a VR4 pass the 49 states emissions with just one main cat?

My answer...consensus seems to be that a main cat only will pass emissions
if the car is completely warmed up. This has been tested in  a number of
states, but I don't know about all forty-nine. A number of list members have
posted a technique for heating up the car, then swapping the main cat. If
you've had a custom downpipe made that replaces the cats, you can still heat
the car up, then swap back to the front half of the system. My test is
coming up in three months.

5. How much trouble is it to take down the entire exhaust system?

My answer...it's a matter of access. If you have a hoist and can stand under
the car, you can probably drop the whole system in a half hour. If you're
working on your back with six inches of clearance, it might take two hours.
Functionally, it's only three or four hangers and some bolts. Of course mine
were rusted solid, adding some more time and swearing.

6. Does anyone sell a cat-less replacement?

ATR and Alamo both sell downpipes with a test pipe. No one I've heard of
(and I researched this question for quite a while two years ago) has a 3SI
downpipe that replaces both precats. Numerous manufacturing challenges with
the rear precat. Most listmembers have taken the time (and necessary
precautions) to gut their precats. It leaves the O2 sensor in place, but
reduces back pressure.

I hope this helps. There was a excellent post on gutting the precats last
year. It should be in the archives, or I can dig it out of my folders if
someone e-mails me privately.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:43:16 1999
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> 1).  Why does the rear seat bottom release and come up?  Is there something
> under there, or is there room for storage?

It just makes wiring an additional amplifier/CD-Changer/MD-Changer and cleaning
easier.

> 2).  I took out the spare tire to clean up some pine needles that had fallen
> into the well, and I found two loose wires behind the rear seats.  They were
> both female ends, and one looked like a computer keyboard plug.  Anyone know
> what these are?

Connections for the factory CD-Changer

> 3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the tires say
> 44 psi ..  What should I go with?

44psi

> 4).  How do I change the rear cargo area's light bulb?

The one on the pass side ?? It just popped out with a little hlp of a
screwdriver wrapped in a towel. The bulp can the be changed from behind the
glass.

> 5).  The driver's side seat belt has trouble retracting.  Is there a way to
> make it work better?

Remove the driver side of the rear wall. You'll then find out that this is much
easier with the rear seat bottom removed :) Then check out the mechanism and
maybe only a little silicone spray helps. Mine had trouble too and I did this.
Worked good for some months until it started again. Now I live with that.

Cheers,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:48:53 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Questions
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In a message dated 5/11/99 5:43:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
robby@swissonline.ch writes:

<<  3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the tires
say
> 44 psi ..  What should I go with? >>
The 44 psi is just the recomended tire pressure for that tire
cold...........id use 32 in front and 29 in back............

Jake (Tire Tech)
91 Pearl White R/T TT
http://members.aol.com/rtturb0/enter.html
Blitz SSBC, K&N Cone Filter Charger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:53:48 1999
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From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
To: "3000/Stealth Technical List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hot Weather Performance
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 18:00:40 -0500
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All,

As summer air temps move in, I find my performance suffering just enough to
make me want to compensate.  Winter performance is so crisp and strong you
forget how much things get slowed up by the higher temps.  I've been
pondering adding nitrous to compensate but I dont want to put out a match
with a fire hose so to speak.  For those with nitrous knowledge, is it
possible to add a small enough dose to simulate winter air density?

Thanks in advance,
DaveT/92TT/13g/AFC/AVC/500ccRC's

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:55:49 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 15:55:38 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Taking out cats
References: <31F439059458D211AAD70008C7B14C209BE321@exchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com> <3.0.3.32.19990511161249.006e04a0@cedar-rapids.net> <3738A190.A3E80FE2@swissonline.ch>
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Roger:

On May 11, R.G. said:
[snip]
> Gutting the precats will help to free up the restriction of the exhaust much
> more than any cat-back system. There are cars with stock exhaust dynoed around
> 550hp in Europe (one crashed in France).

What is the cost of gutting (er...what _is_ gutting?) the precats, and is the
cost/hp ratio lower with the precat gut mod than with a catback mod for a car
that already has the K&N FIPK installed?

On May 12, R.G. said:
> > 3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the tires say
> > 44 psi ..  What should I go with?
>
> 44psi

Isn't the 44psi the _maximum_ tire pressure rating for the tire?  I was
informed that the only time anybody runs them so high is during autocross.

-sankar

--
*******************************************************************************
It is too dangerous, you must not go alone.
Hey, I'm your cha'DIch.
    -- Worf and Picard, "Sins of the Father", stardate 43685.2
*******************************************************************************
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 15:58:19 1999
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Gabriel

You may have answered this in a private email and if you have I will
apologize now.  But, I am going to ask the hard question straight out.
When you did the crankcase flush did you do ALL of these steps

1. Before you drained old oil you added the crankcase flush to the
engine oil.
2. Ran the engine for 5 minutes at IDLE or no more than 1500RPM.
3. Shut the engine off and drained all of the old oil letting it drain
for at least 10    minutes.
4. Removed the old oil filter.
5. Installed a new oil filter.
6. Filled the crankcase with new Mobil 1 15-50 or 10-30 oil.
7. Started the engine and checked for leaks around the drain plug and
oil filter.

I am sorry if this seems really basic, but I have known people to do
some really strange stuff and since I don't know you, have to ask the
basic questions so we can put to rest any notions of a crankcase flush
gone bad. Especially since it was done right before a ~140 mile trip.
Please don't take this personally.

Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 16:08:17 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Questions
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>> 3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the tires
say
>> 44 psi ..  What should I go with?
>
>44psi

I hate to disagree with Roger the wizard, but I think 44 psi is the maximum
pressure. It's what I run on open track events, and the tires are really
stiff. On the street, you oughta go with 32/29. Unless, of course, you are
running on the Autobahn at 160+ mph like Roger does.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 16:33:41 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Taking out cats
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>
>My answer...to get a good fit, with no leaks, and no interference is not a
>simple task. Aside from materials ($150?), there's labor at $65 an hour
>(unless you have all the equipment at home). Again, it's not just straight
>pipe with angles, but mandrel bends. It quickly becomes a $300+ venture, at
>which point you're over half way to buying one. There has been some
>listmembers who've tried to get precat replacements from SS and found shops
>that want $300 just to design and produce one set of those.

OK, that's the cost of the FIRST one. Then, you send the prototype to a
fabricator to have 500 copies bent up and welded on a CNC mandrel bending
jig, so that additional copies cost $10 for parts and $5 for labor per
unit, meaning that they should be able to sell them for 2X cost, or $30 per
pipe (about right for an exhaust pipe, eh?). So I repeat my question: Why
does a downpipe cost hundreds of dollars? Are we being ripped off?

Most listmembers have taken the time (and necessary
>precautions) to gut their precats. It leaves the O2 sensor in place, but
>reduces back pressure.

This gets back to my question about passing future emission tests. If I gut
the precats, and then can't pass an emission test, it will cost me a bloody
fortune to buy new stock downpipes with precats from Mitsu -- probably even
more than the ripoff SS downpipes. To me, it seems like the ideal solution
is to drop the entire stock system, seal it up and put it away somewhere,
and install an entirely new exhaust with no cats. Then, if Big Brother
shows up with an emission test, we just get the stock system out of the
attic and put it back on. Or bolt in a huge catalytic converter just to
pass the test.

What's wrong with this approach? Where can I buy a complete replacement
exhaust?

I am beginning to think that what the 3000GT world needs is somebody who is
willing to engineer and build some simple, straightforward racing equipment
and sell it at a nice -- but not ripoff -- price. Anybody like that out there?

>I hope this helps. There was a excellent post on gutting the precats last
>year. It should be in the archives, or I can dig it out of my folders if
>someone e-mails me privately.

Thanks. I saved Roger's instructions (and a couple of others) last year.

Rich/old poop/kof kof
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 16:56:07 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 19:57:23 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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1. You will fin a wire catch that locks into a hook on the right and
left front edge of the back seat. Push back and pull up and the seat
will release. No storage, seat is form fit to pan.

2.CD player connections???


3. > The 44 psi is just the recommended tire pressure for that tire
> cold...........id use 32 in front and 29 in back............


44 PSI is the MAXIMUM recommended inflation the tire is rated for. The
door jam sticker is the Manufacturer's  recommended tire pressures,
also cold. You can vary the pressure to suit your preferences but
below the recommended 32/29 will cause abnormal tire wear. Unless you
have the 245/45 18 set of tires rims you won't want to go near 44 PSI.
Doesn't the ES have 15 or 16' rims? Above 35 PSI on the 15's will
cause traction loss as your contact patch diminishes in size and
excessive center wear on the tires. You have some leeway on the 16"
rims. Start at 32/29 and drive it a while, go up to 34/30 and try it
next. Also drive through some water onto dry pavement slowly and get
out and look at the wet tread pattern on the pavement and see when the
full width of the tread does not leave a solid mark.

4. This will sound strange; the belt is too limp. Pull it all the way
out and iron it, yes iron it with some starch at the Nylon setting on
the iron so you don't melt it. It is so limp that it folds and and
wrinkles so it binds and won't retract. The other way is to remove the
inner trim panels and increase the sprig tension on the retractor is
it pulls harder, but it will pull harder on you when you drive.

Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 16:57:11 1999
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From: Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:01:54 -0400
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Rich is right.
The 44 psi is the max TIRE rating.  The door listing is the =
manufacture's recommendation for the vehicle.  Use the door listing for =
normal driving.  Extreme driving is another case!
Pete
91 VR4

-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 7:04 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Questions

>> 3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the =
tires
say
>> 44 psi ..  What should I go with?
>
>44psi

I hate to disagree with Roger the wizard, but I think 44 psi is the =
maximum
pressure. It's what I run on open track events, and the tires are really
stiff. On the street, you oughta go with 32/29. Unless, of course, you =
are
running on the Autobahn at 160+ mph like Roger does.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 17:18:10 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Taking out cats
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> OK, that's the cost of the FIRST one. Then, you send the prototype to a fabricator to have 500 copies bent up and welded on a CNC mandrel bending jig, so that additional copies cost $10 for parts and $5 for labor per unit, meaning that they should be able to sell them for 2X cost, or $30 per

You have never had your own business, eh old poop. Wholesale is always
3X cost of materials, labor and overhead. At retail it's 2X whole
sale. You will never get the materials down to $10 and there is
considerable amount of labor and hand work plus the amount you
invested in the CNC machinery. I doubt 500 copies would sell that fast
considering the amount of places doing tail pipe testing and the lack
of mechanics that can swap them out and back. We suffer from the lack
of economy of scale that so many of the mass produced car benefit from
like the Eclipse. W just don't have the numbers for anybody to get
excited about making them since profits are not going to bring in as
much as something that there is 10x the potential audience. Example,
how many clutches sold in the group purchase??? Not a 100, just 11.

> This gets back to my question about passing future emission tests. If I gut
> the precats, and then can't pass an emission test, it will cost me a bloody
> fortune to buy new stock downpipes with precats from Mitsu -- probably even
> more than the ripoff SS downpipes. To me, it seems like the ideal solution
> is to drop the entire stock system, seal it up and put it away somewhere,

With a test pipe in your main cat's place and saving your pre cat down
pipes it would be a shorter change over. Some places have gotten
really strict, and nothing but stock passes. They won't even pass a
dual exhaust with a balance tube ahead of the cats!

> I am beginning to think that what the 3000GT world needs is somebody who is willing to engineer and build some simple, straightforward racing equipment and sell it at a nice -- but not ripoff -- price. Anybody like that out there?
>
But where is the incentive for someone to go to all the effort, money
makes the world go around. Most of my friends are too time poor to pay
attention, let along take on a charity project. It has to be a labor
of love only. Big, cool machines are expensive and only pay for
themselves when being billed out so they can pay the bank for the loan
it took to buy them. Government jobs take 5th priority.

Sorry for the dose of cold, humble reality.

Ron
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 17:40:14 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:37:06 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Taking out cats
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i know this has been asked before but i can remember the
responce..............

1.    what r the pro's and cons of gutting/removing the precats?

2.    what r the pro's and cons of gutting the main cat(if thats what its
called) or should u just replace it with a racing cat..........so u can pass
inspection?

Jake
91 Pear White R/T TT
http://members.aol.com/rtturb0/enter.html
Blitz SSBC, K&N Cone Filter Charger..........
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie Questions
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> 5).  The driver's side seat belt has trouble retracting.
>      Is there a way to make it work better?

This is a list of the more common problems with these cars:

  1.  Cracked dash vents
  2.  Peeling triangle windows next to door
  3.  Driver's seatbelt failing to retract
  4.  Hatch cover falling out of clamps
  5.  Plastic residue filming on inside of windows

There are a number of ways to fix such problems, and you
may like to check that there is not a sharp edge where
the seat belt goes into the wall panel as I seem to
remember some members mentioning that this can be a
problem.

Cheers,
Kevin.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 19:07:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:05:46 EDT
Subject: Team3S: NHRA Rule book?
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Is there a copy of the NHRA Rule Book on line someplace?
Thanks.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 19:16:30 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:10:19 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Drag Slicks question
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Does anyone know who makes drag slicks in a 17 inch size?
I tried both Goodyear and Mickey Thompson neither makes a 17 inch.
Thanks
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 19:17:46 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tire Pressure (WAS: Taking out cats)
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 19:19:59 -0700
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Yikes.  44 PSI is the maximum pressure at the maximum load rating of that
tire.  It is VERY doubtful that optimal performance will be found at 44 psi,
but it largely depends on the tire the driving conditions.

The best place to start is with the door sticker pressure and adjust from
there to suit your tastes and performance requirements for your particular
tires.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Roger:
>
> On May 12, R.G. said:
> > > 3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear..
> but the tires say
> > > 44 psi ..  What should I go with?
> >
> > 44psi
>
> Isn't the 44psi the _maximum_ tire pressure rating for the tire?  I was
> informed that the only time anybody runs them so high is during autocross.
>
> -sankar

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 19:25:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:24:32 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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I have to go with Jake on this one, sorry Roger.  I went with the tire
pressure and prematurely ruined a great set of tires.  The centers wore
out much too fast because I was running too much pressure.

Regards,
Lynn

RTTURB0@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 5/11/99 5:43:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
> robby@swissonline.ch writes:
>
> <<  3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the tires
> say
>  > 44 psi ..  What should I go with? >>
> The 44 psi is just the recomended tire pressure for that tire
> cold...........id use 32 in front and 29 in back............
>
> Jake (Tire Tech)
> 91 Pearl White R/T TT
> http://members.aol.com/rtturb0/enter.html
> Blitz SSBC, K&N Cone Filter Charger
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 19:38:19 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Taking out cats
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 19:40:33 -0700
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I can speak to the pre-cat eliminator pipes.  I had a set built as did at
least one other list member.

Most places who have seen them won't even touch the design.  Period.  There
are usually two concerns cited.  First the rear pre-cat is a relatively
complex design which requires some clever and time consuming fabrication
work.  Although mine were prototypes and therefore may have taken a bit
longer than absolutely necessary, there was significant time invested in
building just the rear pipe.  The front one is child's play.

The other reason is that the EPA can get downright gnarly if they catch wind
of a business producing and selling such pipes that find their way on road
going vehicles.

As to cost, consider the price of cutting heavy enough flanges, the labor
intensive tricky fabrication, and then add coating to the bill.  Adds up
quick.  $500-$750 USD for the pair would not be unreasonable.  Note that
this does not include the downpipe, just the pre-cat eliminators.

The complete exhaust is pretty easy to remove and reinstall except for the
rear pre-cat.  It is a real PITA.

Frankly, I question the measurable performance increase of gutted pre-cats,
but since noone has back to back dyno numbers or numerous comparitive 1320'
runs, any argument one way or the other is pretty much moot.

There may even be a solid argument against doing it.  The sudden expansion
of gases when they hit the much larger volume of a gutted pre-cat will
likely slow down exhaust flow significantly which is a big no-no for a
performance exhaust system.  I certainly cannot provide evidence of this
theory so I doubt discussion by itself would be conclusive.

More than one exhaust and performance shop (who would benefit by selling a
high flow cats, and they do sell them) have directed me that a healthy cat
is not as restrictive as we like to think.  *shrug*  My main cat is staying
put for the time being.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> >Along the line of Catalitic converters/  How hard would it be to
> replace the
> >precats with a piece of straight pipe?
>
> If we are going to get into this topic, I have a few questions:
>
> 1. Why do those furshlugginer downpipes cost so dang much? It's just a
> piece of SS pipe with a flange and no cats, right? Is this yet another
> ripoff?
>
> 2. Can we take all the cats off and then get through an inspection later?
> Is it wise to keep the old system and stick it back on when necessary? (If
> it's anything like rotors, I should be able to change it back in 10
> minutes). Will a VR4 pass the 49 states emissions with just one main cat?
> We don't have emission inspections in Iowa yet, but Murphy's Law says that
> the very second I take down my exhaust, IDOT will start inspecting.
>
> 3. How much trouble is it to take down the entire exhaust system? Does
> anyone sell a cat-less replacement?
>
> Rich/old poop/gasp! kof!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 19:41:06 1999
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From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <19990511220726.23299.qmail@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Questions
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Welcome to our world ;)

I've read the other responses, and will disagree with a couple of them here.

> 2).  I took out the spare tire to clean up some pine needles that had
fallen
> into the well, and I found two loose wires behind the rear seats.  They
were
> both female ends, and one looked like a computer keyboard plug.  Anyone
know
> what these are?

These are connectors for a CD Changer.  I *may* have one available to sell
you, if you're interested.  BTW, Pioneer used to be the OEM for these cars,
but their current lineup of changers will not work.

> 3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the tires
say
> 44 psi ..  What should I go with?

32/29 for "normal" driving.  The owner's manual says to add 4psi front and
back if driving at sustained speeds of 100+.  I generally set mine at 34/31,
since I'm usually running 60-80.

> 5).  The driver's side seat belt has trouble retracting.  Is there a way
to
> make it work better?

OK, I know there is a web page with a 15 minute fix to this problem.  It
involves scraping some material off of the plastic cover which is dragging
on the belt as it tries to retract.  I remember that it's dirt simple, I
just can't remember the details or where it's posted.  Help?

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth ES

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 19:46:57 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie Questions
Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 19:49:11 -0700
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Agreed.

The general rule for tire pressures is 10% increase from cold pressure when
hot and adjust from there to suit driving conditions and preferences.  The
other thing to use is a pyrometer if you're being totally serious about
track work but that's likely not what we're after.

If tire pressure increase exceeds 10% of the baseline cold pressure,
increase tire pressure.  Do the opposite if tire pressure does not increase
to around 10%.  The reason for this is tires with lower pressure move around
more.  The movement of the carcass translates into heat.

For the performance minded (track use where temperatures remain relatively
constant) you will typically want to run the lowest pressure possible
without causing excessive tire heat.  Heat will wear tires very rapidly.
You also need to balance that against contact patch which varies by tire
type and suspension geometry.

These guidelines are for performance oriented tire use.  Street is a
different deal.  You probably want the tires to last and to remain fairly
consistent under a broad variety of fairly tame driving conditions.  Even
moderately hot street driving is "tame".  A little more pressure (2-3 psi)
than recommended on the door will usually do the trick for highway driving
and door pressures are usually fine for most legal city driving.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have to go with Jake on this one, sorry Roger.  I went with the tire
> pressure and prematurely ruined a great set of tires.  The centers wore
> out much too fast because I was running too much pressure.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
>
> RTTURB0@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 5/11/99 5:43:29 PM Central Daylight Time,
> > robby@swissonline.ch writes:
> >
> > <<  3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear..
> but the tires
> > say
> >  > 44 psi ..  What should I go with? >>
> > The 44 psi is just the recomended tire pressure for that tire
> > cold...........id use 32 in front and 29 in back............
> >
> > Jake (Tire Tech)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 20:25:29 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:25:56 -0500
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Maybe this isn't a technical question and to keep the S/N ratio down to
a minimum, please reply to me directly.

Some things have happened recently in my life which have me tossing
around the idea of getting rid of the Stealth.  Alot of you remember
that I had a fairly serious accident in November, for those of you who
don't, please visit Eric Bowden's website.  Here's a direct link---->
1991 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo with a nosebleed... .

The car has subsequently been repaired and is in surprisingly good
structural condition.  The problem is that she's sporting roughly
150,000 miles and the accident was just about the straw that broke the
camel's back.  The other party's insurance company has refused
repeatedly to admit that they caused any mechanical damage to the
vehicle, even though the oil light is now on at idle(see accident
description).

I tell people the car is a '91 with 150K on it and they are shocked.  I
took very good care of this car,  but I have barely touched it since
November.

Anybody want to hazzard a guess at what I could get for her if I were to
sell?

>The engine obviously needs work
>the trannie needs to be rebuilt(I have the parts to do it)
>Everything else is in pretty good shape, all things considered.

I would only sell to a good home, it's like I'm selling one of my
kids(even though I don't have any), so if anybody here is interested in
a fixer-upper, or a (sigh) "parts" car. lemme know, make me an offer,
you might be surprised at what I'd take.
--
-Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)......for now
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Maybe this isn't a technical question and to keep the S/N ratio down to
a minimum, please reply to me directly.
<p>Some things have happened recently in my life which have me tossing
around the idea of getting rid of the Stealth.&nbsp; Alot of you remember
that I had a fairly serious accident in November, for those of you who
don't, please visit Eric Bowden's website.&nbsp; Here's a direct link---->
<a href="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/5095/crabtree.html">1991
Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo with a nosebleed...</a> .
<p>The car has subsequently been repaired and is in surprisingly good structural
condition.&nbsp; The problem is that she's sporting roughly 150,000 miles
and the accident was just about the straw that broke the camel's back.&nbsp;
The other party's insurance company has refused repeatedly to admit that
they caused any mechanical damage to the vehicle, even though the oil light
is now on at idle(see accident description).
<p>I tell people the car is a '91 with 150K on it and they are shocked.&nbsp;
I took very good care of this car,&nbsp; but I have barely touched it since
November.
<p>Anybody want to hazzard a guess at what I could get for her if I were
to sell?
<p>>The engine obviously needs work
<br>>the trannie needs to be rebuilt(I have the parts to do it)
<br>>Everything else is in pretty good shape, all things considered.
<p>I would only sell to a good home, it's like I'm selling one of my kids(even
though I don't have any), so if anybody here is interested in a fixer-upper,
or a (sigh) "parts" car. lemme know, make me an offer, you might be surprised
at what I'd take.
<br>--
<br>-Jeff Crabtree
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)......for now
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; '93 Wrangler
4.0L Sport
<br>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
St. Louis, MO
<br>&nbsp;</html>

--------------FB74F9872707F633DB167CC8--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 20:35:31 1999
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check nitto

X
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 20:57:52 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:51:08 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise question
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In a message dated 99-05-06 23:21:56 EDT, you write:

<< You may already know this, but we don't have lifters. The camshaft
follower is a bridge like affair that spans between the valve stem and
and these lifter like units some call valve lash limiters.  They are
kept pumped up with oil, just like lifers, but just hold up their end of
the bridge while the camshaft lobe pushes in the middle which causes the
valve on the other end of the bridge to be opened.

Regards,
Lynn >>


This is just the information I was looking for! I did not, in fact, know
about this "pseudo-rocker-arm" device.

Talked to a guy who lives here in the same apartment complex and who used to
be an auto mechanic. Super sharp/nice guy who drives the previous style
mustang GT. He explained that the typical problem with hydraulic lifters is
that they will clog with oil deposits - especially if you SWITCH oil brands.
Different oil brands will often have a bad reaction and gum up the works.
Somehow, oil pressure is used to keep the lifter in constant contact with the
cam lobes. Deposits will block or restrict the supply of oil to the lash
adjuster - especially with lower oil pressure at idle (explains why tick goes
away at higher RPM and why it is worse when the oil is warm/thin and low
pressure)

I asked him about the difficulty in replacing the lifters. He said I'd
probably have to pull the timing belt and cams since most DOHC engines he had
worked on required this (lifters are actually nothing more than extension of
the valve stem and they sit directly under the camshaft). Your very timely
info about the mechanism used for the valve lash adjusters in our engines
makes me believe that it might be possible to do the job without pulling the
cams. Furthermore, I'm thinking that simply disassembling and
cleaning/flushing the lash adusters might correct the problem. Of course I
can imagine that the blockage might be somewhere between the oil supply and
the lash adjusters. In this case we would be talking about flushing whatever
oil passageway there is in the block.

I also asked him about a product called Rislone engine treatment. This is a
single quart of oil that has alot of detergents. It is added during oil
change or when oil low. Both my regular mechanic and guy next door suggest
using it - should help clear up any gumming problems. My regular mechanic
also suggested that I NOT do the flush treatment as it causes damage to the
engine while you are idling it for those 5 or so minutes with the flush. Not
enough lubrication while running I guess.

Finally, both these guys advise against doing anything drastic to correct the
problem if I can live with the noise. Was a time when all engines sounded
like this before the clever idea of using oil pressure to keep constant
pressure on the cam profile (aka hydraulic lifters). When we loose this
hydraulic pressure effect, we have a gap between the lowest point in the cam
profile and the pushrod, lifter, or whatever mechanism rides on the cam
profile. When the gap is taken up by the "rising" profile on the cam, there
is a slight impact giving this tick noise. I've been assured that there is no
damage as the parts are very robust. Hmmmmm.

I plan on doing:

1) the Rislone engine treatment.

...and if that doesn't work, I might:

2) opening the engine to hand clean/flush or replace the last adjusters and
clean the oil passages leading to the lash adjusters. This may be a bit
ambitious, but I think a good mechanic could do the replacement job in about
5 hours as per the info on my maint. records. I'll have to get the step by
step instructions from my mechanic (the guy is willing to download it for me
- what a guy!) and look at a manual (Dave Trent has one and he doesn't mind
me mooching a look at it - what a guy!)

I'll keep you posted

Paul
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 21:04:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:37:45 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Taking out cats
In-Reply-To: <3738C93F.AD62D10B@earthlink.net>
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>You have never had your own business, eh old poop.

Well, as a matter of fact, I did. I sold books over the Internet.
Sold the biz last year.

Wholesale is always
>3X cost of materials, labor and overhead. At retail it's 2X whole
>sale.

So, I'm talking 2X cost for retail.  Seems the same to me. No wholesale
involved.


You will never get the materials down to $10 and there is
>considerable amount of labor and hand work plus the amount you
>invested in the CNC machinery.

I'm not investing in CNC machinery. I'll job it out to a shop.

I doubt 500 copies would sell that fast <snip> Example,
>how many clutches sold in the group purchase??? Not a 100, just 11.

Still, if we made 25 sets, and sold them for $100 each, it would work, even
if we double the cost estimate.
Nobody would get wealthy, but nobody would lose, either.
>
>But where is the incentive for someone to go to all the effort, money
>makes the world go around. >Sorry for the dose of cold, humble reality.
>
Well....how about this?
If someone were to make all this stuff, and sell it to his buddies all over
the world at a reasonable but not ripoff profit, then the whole thing would
be a BUSINESS and one could write off all the expenses involved, such as
attending open track events, modifying one's VR4, and so on.  Hmm...

Rich/old poop
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 11 21:56:38 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:58:42 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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> Still, if we made 25 sets, and sold them for $100 each, it would work, even
> if we double the cost estimate.
> Nobody would get wealthy, but nobody would lose, either.

Set point Rich. Didn't want to shoot any idea or enthusiasm down, just
playing Devil's advocate on why we don't see more economical parts. As
I said, I'm "time poor", or I would have made a hood mold already.
Don't take my post as pessimism, just realism in the face of being
missed by the broad ax at the office today. Will Corporate America
ever cut the losers first?

> Well....how about this?
> If someone were to make all this stuff, and sell it to his buddies all over
> the world at a reasonable but not ripoff profit, then the whole thing would
> be a BUSINESS and one could write off all the expenses involved, such as
> attending open track events, modifying one's VR4, and so on.  Hmm...

Another good point. Any takers???
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 00:35:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:37:54 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> I hate to disagree with Roger the wizard, but I think 44 psi is the maximum
> pressure. It's what I run on open track events, and the tires are really
> stiff. On the street, you oughta go with 32/29. Unless, of course, you are
> running on the Autobahn at 160+ mph like Roger does.

Yes, you're absolutely right, these are my Autobahn settings :) IMHO, I'd always
runn a little more pressure and check the wear more often.

// Roger
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 00:49:27 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Drag Slicks question
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  Are you sure you want a slick on a 17" rim?  If you went with the same total
circumfrence, then you won't get much of a wrinkle.  I would think that's why it's
difficult to find a slick on a large rim, it'd be desirable to have a higher profile
tire so it wrinkles alot, putting more of the tire's surface to the ground.  Perhaps an
auto crossing tire or a drag radial?

Jason

Aso8@aol.com wrote:

> Does anyone know who makes drag slicks in a 17 inch size?

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 01:26:01 1999
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Well, as I have mentioned previously my 94 VR4 has been making a ticking
noise for the last few months & after an engine flush the ticking
returned after about 1500 miles.
It went into the shop yesterday & today they rang & told me that 21 of
the 24 lash adjusters were worn & the whole set are now going to be
replaced ( gotta love that extended warrantye ). In the end the ticking
was so loud I could hear it the cabin while I was cruising along even
with the stereo on.
Cheers
Andrew
Australia
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 03:49:52 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Q's - Common Probs
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 01:43:31 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
|This is a list of the more common problems with these cars:
|
|  1.  Cracked dash vents
|  2.  Peeling triangle windows next to door
|  3.  Driver's seatbelt failing to retract
|  4.  Hatch cover falling out of clamps
|  5.  Plastic residue filming on inside of windows
-----------snip----------

1., 2., and 5.- are all the result of parking in the sun with the
windows tightly closed.  If the dash vents crack, you're pretty much
out of luck, but I believe the triangle windows will be replaced by
the dealer.  The residue film is caused by baking the plasticizers
out of the dash and upholstery.  Park in the shade, or facing North
or East in the sun, crack the windows a bit, use reflective
shields-- car interiors were not meant to sustain temps of 140+ for
extended periods.

Better hatch cover clamps are available from the dealer at
$1.95/pair.

The seatbelt retraction problem is usually due to the retractors
"gunking up", and can be fixed by cleaning the guides with a
pen-knife or blade.  Of course if you kink them up, the ironing
trick works too...

Forrest


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 04:10:13 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Q's - Tire pressure
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 04:09:56 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Rice-Burner Crusher
<stealth_es@hotmail.com>

|I own a 1993 Dodge Stealth ES, and today I was giving it a very
thorough
-------------snip-----------
|3).  Tire pressure.  The car door says 32 front, 29 rear.. but the
tires say
|44 psi ..  What should I go with?


Lots of good and valid info has been offered, but the bottom line is
that what FEELS best for your tires, suspension, and driving
conditions should determine your correct tire pressure.  There is NO
right answer.  Like you, I have a non-turbo, which has a softer
suspension than the turbos... maybe at the sport setting on a turbo
a high inflation might feel a bit rough, but on mine, with 16"
wheels and 10" wide performance tires (and regularly running over
100mph) my car feels safest with these settings--  44 front, 38 rear
normally, 46 front, 40 rear for trips.  No, I don't run the Autobahn
at 160 with Roger (I wish...).  Yes, your tires will wear more
quickly.  But I didn't buy a sports car for economy--  I prefer to
sacrifice some tire life for more accurate handling.  Your
preference might be the opposite.  After trying 2psi increments from
36psi through 48 psi (fronts), my car handles and corners best with
these tires at a higher inflation, and that might be inappropriate
on the AWD turbos with their stiffer suspensions.  Also, at the
suggestion of a former list member who used to race a FWD Stealth,
you can neutralize understeer in corners with a 6psi difference from
front to back (instead of the standard 3psi - in effect forcing the
rear wheels to "drag" through a corner - I also use a -1 degree
camber on the front).  That setup makes for a very accurate
cornering dynamic at any speed.

Please note, BTW, that with my stock 15" wheels and original
Goodyears that came with the car, my best handling was at a much
lower 40F/35R, and I'd add a couple of psi for trips.  Each
wheel/tire combo will give different results...
Also note that if you live where it rains a lot, adding a few pounds
of pressure reduces the tire's "footprint" and cuts down on
hydroplaning.  If your racing in the wet, make that 6 to 10 psi!

We get lots of information here from the turbo owners, but much less
from those of us with NTs...  Why not do all of us a favor and do
your own tests and report back to us your experiences and the tires
you're running?  If I may suggest, start your tests at 36 front and
32 rear, and drive it that way for a day or two.  Then go up to
40/36, then 44/40, then 48/44 (just to see what it feels like).
Once you've chosen what feels best, then vary (only) the rear by
+2psi and then -2psi.  Sorry to disagree with guys who know more
than I do about tires--  I'm a driver and not a mechanic, so all I
know is when the car is set up right.  My guess is that you're going
to settle in around that 44psi marked on the tires.  Please let us
know...

Forrest <-- '94 Stealth, Nitto 450 Extreme Performance 225/55/R16




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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 05:20:01 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie Questions
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> OK, I know there is a web page with a 15 minute fix to this problem.  It
> involves scraping some material off of the plastic cover which is dragging
> on the belt as it tries to retract.  I remember that it's dirt simple, I
> just can't remember the details or where it's posted.  Help?

Before taking anything apart or cutting any plastic, try taking a razor
blade and scraping the gunky stuff out of the shoulder loop that the belt
passes through. Mine seemed to hang up when retracting, and this fixed it
for me. I think Gavin suggested it at one time.

-Mike
'93 Stealth ES w/91k

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 06:27:15 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:32:04 -0700
Subject: Team3S: Gutting out cats vs. DP
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Barry made a good point that there is no conclusive data on no pre-cats
vs. having precats.  I know most on this list recommend gutting them but
has anyone done before & after results???  what about the "seat of the
pants" feeling?

I too think the downpipes are OVERPRICED (probly why I don't have one).
But seeing that the RESTRICTION is not the downpipe itself but rather the
precats (right , guys?)  Does it make more sense to JUST gut the precats
& use the STOCK DP?

and as far as emissions, what have ya'all (w/gutted cats) experienced???

Also does gutting the precats move the powerband higher (loss of
backpressure & therefore loss of torgue but gained HP)??  or does it
result in more immmediate torgue because the turbos can now spool at will
w/o any restriction???  Somehow this topic never seems clear (to me).
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 06:54:40 1999
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I just bought a new engine stand from JEG'S. Does anyone know the size (pitch and diameter)of the
bolts that attach the tranny to the engine? Or does anyone have an engine mounted/ How did you mount
it? I would like to get my "spare" engine off of the floor.

RAM
92 R/T TT
Borla
K&N
Alamo Motorsports Down Pipe

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 06:56:18 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 10:00:43 -0700
Subject: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
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Hi guys I forwarding this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any advice
contact him

>  Basically, after months of fighting different Mitsubishi dealerships
and > explaining to them that my transmission was failing; I had finally
found
one > that would replace my transmission within my 12month/12,000 mile
warranty (
> from last July of 1998 when I had a new transmission put in).
Everything
was > set and had an appointment to install a new transmission yesterday
under
> warranty.  Well after I dropped my car, the service manager had called
me
> back and stated that, "Your car has been altered by an after-market
boost
> controller; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4.  I
did
> not know that about your car when you came to us last week".   This
Service
> manager stated to me that he even documented my vin# in Mitsubishi's
system
> that my car was "altered & modified".  Meaning that no other Mitsubishi

> dealership would honor any warranty transmission.  In other words, he
"black > balled"  (service manager's own words) me! 

>  I don't understand?!; There are several Mitsubishi dealers and other
> manufacturer's (such as Toyota) that allow their customers warranty
work
even > with their modifications.  But this guy just tried to act
conservative with
> me!  I truly thought of removing my boost controller and boost gauge
before
I > dropped the car; but when I took the car in last week and explained
my
> problem with the transmission, they had originally approved it and made
an
> appointment for me!?  But after my whole day of planning (taking time
off
> from work) and making arrangements to drop my VR4 off for the warranty
> transmission that I was entitled to; they DENIED me of my right to my
> warranty transmission. 
>  Anyway, I have spoken to several other VR4 owners and they stated to
find > this Letter from GReddy that states that the GReddy Profec B
conforms to
> manufacturer's standards; and that will help my case.  All I want is
what I
> am entitled to:  the new transmission under my warranty.  I was DENIED
that! 
> I even tried to explain that I had just recently installed that boost
> controller but had transmission problems way before I installed the
> modification.


___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 07:04:58 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gutting out cats vs. DP
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 07:07:20 -0700
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I think the stock downpipe is horribly restrictive and probably a bigger
issue that the pre-cats.

The rear turbo dumps into the downpipe at a 90 degree angle to the main
downpipe for starters.  Also there is a significant difference in the
distance exhaust travels from the front turbo versus the rear.  The inside
diameter of the stock DP also appears to be poorly matched to the rest of
the exhaust system.

That being said, I kind of doubt there would be a noticable difference
between a stock DP and a decent aftermarket DP on a stock car.  I suspect
that any tangible differences would only be found once other flow
improvements or demands had been made, like bigger turbos etc.

Riger's dyno tests seemed to indicate that the stock vs aftermarket DP
didn't make much difference.  However I am somewhat suspect of those dyno
runs given that the car may not have been 100% up to snuff at the time.
Even if the dyno runs are representative, it is possible that the
aftermarket bits move the power around to a more performance oriented
location in the curve without actually making significantly more power.
That would also be an improvement.

When I installed my DP I also installed a cat back exhaust and air filter at
the same time so I can't really speak to the effectiveness of just the DP
alone.  I definitely noticed a difference as measured against a friend's
Ferrari F355 and a local supposedly stock Supra TT.  There was better
acceleration that could be felt in every gear and a few more MPH up top.
Stock for stock against the F355, whoever got the best start typically won
stop light drags.  The F355 ran away on the highway.  After my basic
upgrades I could pretty much beat the F355 at will below 120 MPH.  At 140
MPH the F355 simply walked away -- a Spyder no less even with the top down.
This is with 15 PSI of boost which I had also been running when everything
else was bone stock.  I was always able to outrun this particular Supra but
after the mods the difference was more apparent.  I don't know exactly how
much that helps but there was a difference.

Again, since noone, especially not even the manufacturers of these products,
can provide conslusive data, it remains theoretical.  I believe the DP is
worth it when additional mods are in place.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Barry made a good point that there is no conclusive data on no pre-cats
> vs. having precats.  I know most on this list recommend gutting them but
> has anyone done before & after results???  what about the "seat of the
> pants" feeling?
>
> I too think the downpipes are OVERPRICED (probly why I don't have one).
> But seeing that the RESTRICTION is not the downpipe itself but rather the
> precats (right , guys?)  Does it make more sense to JUST gut the precats
> & use the STOCK DP?
>
> and as far as emissions, what have ya'all (w/gutted cats) experienced???
>
> Also does gutting the precats move the powerband higher (loss of
> backpressure & therefore loss of torgue but gained HP)??  or does it
> result in more immmediate torgue because the turbos can now spool at will
> w/o any restriction???  Somehow this topic never seems clear (to me).

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 07:51:21 1999
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12mm X 1.75


At 08:54 AM 5/12/99 , you wrote:
>Does anyone know the size
>(pitch and diameter)of the
>bolts that attach the tranny to the engine?


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 08:04:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 08:04:13 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats vs. DP
References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com>
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On May 12, Nick Xiong said:
> Also does gutting the precats move the powerband higher (loss of
> backpressure & therefore loss of torgue but gained HP)??  or does it
> result in more immmediate torgue because the turbos can now spool at will
> w/o any restriction???  Somehow this topic never seems clear (to me).

I believe the issue of backpressure is moot for turbos.  The more the pressure
differential between the input and output side of the turbos, the faster spool
up time and better performance.  Am I right?

I would like to know which of the following options provides the better
cost/hp ratio: gutting pre-cats vs. less restrictive aftermarket catback
exhaust system.

Thanks!
-sankar

--
*******************************************************************************
Riker: "The point is that I didn't get the chance."
Ro: "'The point is', with all due respect, Commander, you are trying to turn me
  into your idea of the model officer."
--Riker and Ro, "Conundrum", Stardate 45494.2
*******************************************************************************
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 08:18:29 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gutting out cats vs. DP
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 08:18:46 -0700
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Sankar...

Not sure you mean "moot" (insignificant). The backpressure issue IS
significant, particularly with larger turbos, more boost, etc. The ideal
would be to have NO exhaust system, thus eliminating backpressure. The
result is less torque at the bottom end, more hp at the top end. It's a
choice. You can't have both (unless you add nitrous for the bottom end).

Now, for cost vs gain, gutting all three cats is inexpensive if it's your
time and energy. The gain is significant, again, particularly if you're
running higher than stock boost. The catback system is mostly for sound and
weight reduction. The restrictions in the system are at the front end (all
three cats and the downpipe) although I can argue that ANY reduction in
diameter on a 3" system is less than ideal (so are bends, but it would be
VERY difficult to run straight pipes on our cars).

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/blown turbo seal mod)

-----Original Message-----
From: Yoss [mailto:yoss@aracnet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 8:04 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats vs. DP


On May 12, Nick Xiong said:
> Also does gutting the precats move the powerband higher (loss of
> backpressure & therefore loss of torgue but gained HP)??  or does it
> result in more immmediate torgue because the turbos can now spool at will
> w/o any restriction???  Somehow this topic never seems clear (to me).

I believe the issue of backpressure is moot for turbos.  The more the
pressure
differential between the input and output side of the turbos, the faster
spool
up time and better performance.  Am I right?

I would like to know which of the following options provides the better
cost/hp ratio: gutting pre-cats vs. less restrictive aftermarket catback
exhaust system.

Thanks!
-sankar
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 08:59:17 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Questions
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Ron:

>4. This will sound strange; the belt is too limp. Pull it all the way
>out and iron it, yes iron it with some starch at the Nylon setting on
>the iron so you don't melt it. It is so limp that it folds and and
>wrinkles so it binds and won't retract. The other way is to remove
>the
>inner trim panels and increase the sprig tension on the retractor is
>it pulls harder, but it will pull harder on you when you drive.

Or you can do like me, go in and b*tch, and they replaced mine free under
Mitsu warranty.  (I'm assuming your car is under 100K miles.)

Best regards,

SJ
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 10:06:22 1999
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Doesn't surprise me one single bit.  They (Mitsu) will do anything from having to honor an agreement they put in place themselves.  They have proven that over and over again especially with the 3si.

My advice is to have the guy take all his documentation on when he first started having problems with the tranny (hopefully he visited a dealership and got some type of documents) and the receipt for the boost controller and show them that it happened prior.  Then get on the horn / fax to Mitsu Corp. both here in the USA and Japan and lay it all out and DEMAND they stand up to THEIR warranty.  If that doesn't work, then the BBB and other Consumer Agencies.  Another resort is to get ahold of the local TV stations that do Consumer Action type items and have them do a report on it (that is if it's up and up).  Alot of publicity like this in the news will usually get some action - especially when it looks bad for the Dealerships / Manufacturer.
--

On Wed, 12 May 1999 10:00:43   Nick Xiong wrote:
>Hi guys I forwarding this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any advice
>contact him
>
>>  Basically, after months of fighting different Mitsubishi dealerships
>and > explaining to them that my transmission was failing; I had finally
>found
>one > that would replace my transmission within my 12month/12,000 mile
>warranty (
>> from last July of 1998 when I had a new transmission put in).
>Everything
>was > set and had an appointment to install a new transmission yesterday
>under
>> warranty.  Well after I dropped my car, the service manager had called
>me
>> back and stated that, "Your car has been altered by an after-market
>boost
>> controller; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4.  I
>did
>> not know that about your car when you came to us last week".   This
>Service
>> manager stated to me that he even documented my vin# in Mitsubishi's
>system
>> that my car was "altered & modified".  Meaning that no other Mitsubishi
>
>> dealership would honor any warranty transmission.  In other words, he
>"black > balled"  (service manager's own words) me! 
>> 
>>  I don't understand?!; There are several Mitsubishi dealers and other
>> manufacturer's (such as Toyota) that allow their customers warranty
>work
>even > with their modifications.  But this guy just tried to act
>conservative with
>> me!  I truly thought of removing my boost controller and boost gauge
>before
>I > dropped the car; but when I took the car in last week and explained
>my
>> problem with the transmission, they had originally approved it and made
>an
>> appointment for me!?  But after my whole day of planning (taking time
>off
>> from work) and making arrangements to drop my VR4 off for the warranty
>> transmission that I was entitled to; they DENIED me of my right to my
>> warranty transmission. 
>>  Anyway, I have spoken to several other VR4 owners and they stated to
>find > this Letter from GReddy that states that the GReddy Profec B
>conforms to
>> manufacturer's standards; and that will help my case.  All I want is
>what I
>> am entitled to:  the new transmission under my warranty.  I was DENIED
>that! 
>> I even tried to explain that I had just recently installed that boost
>> controller but had transmission problems way before I installed the
>> modification.
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
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>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 10:17:42 1999
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See comments below
--

On Wed, 12 May 1999 01:43:31   Bob Forrest wrote:
>-----Original Message-----From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
>|This is a list of the more common problems with these cars:
>|
>|  1.  Cracked dash vents
>|  2.  Peeling triangle windows next to door
>|  3.  Driver's seatbelt failing to retract
>|  4.  Hatch cover falling out of clamps
>|  5.  Plastic residue filming on inside of windows
>-----------snip----------
>
>1., 2., and 5.- are all the result of parking in the sun with the
>windows tightly closed.  If the dash vents crack, you're pretty much
>out of luck, but I believe the triangle windows will be replaced by
>the dealer.  The residue film is caused by baking the plasticizers
>out of the dash and upholstery.  Park in the shade, or facing North
>or East in the sun, crack the windows a bit, use reflective
>shields-- car interiors were not meant to sustain temps of 140+ for
>extended periods.

Best thing for cleaning windows I've found that has the film build-up is called "Glass Wax" found at Ace Hardware in the Home Cleaning Supplies area.  It's almost like waxing your windows - does good job and lasts longer than Windex.  Also doesn't leave the streaks like other window cleaners.

I don't see how the vents break the way they do.  Mine are broken in like 2 locations on each vent.  I'd say another poor design/build.

>
>Better hatch cover clamps are available from the dealer at
>$1.95/pair.
>
>The seatbelt retraction problem is usually due to the retractors
>"gunking up", and can be fixed by cleaning the guides with a
>pen-knife or blade.  Of course if you kink them up, the ironing
>trick works too...
>
>Forrest
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 10:40:10 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:40:37 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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Does anyone know if you gut the pre-cats, will we still pass
New York State instpection?

Thanks,

--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 10:51:37 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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Just a short note on gutting your cats (precats, main cat) ....Dyno tests in Europe
indicate that gutting your cats have a marginal, if any, effect upon 3S TT's which are
running over 400hp with stock exhaust systems. These vehicles are equipped with only a
BC and K&N. If you want to increase your HP over and above this, then larger injectors
and turbos are the next step, after which you may wish to consider an exhaust system
upgrade to compliment the new mods. However, gutting cats on an essentially stock
vehicle (stock turbos, stock injectors) is foolish and will likely net you more problems
than you want (Immissions Inspections) ofr marginal to negliable top end performance,
and poorer bottom end.  The same holds true for the cat back system...for performance
your bucks are better spent elsewhere. Unless you're going to go wild and hairy with
fuel and turbos, leave the cats alone. Replacing them after the fact can be veeeery
expensive.

Best

Darc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 11:02:40 1999
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From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com> <199905121726.NAA17455@egate3.citicorp.com> <3739BF2E.6CFCCFAC@bc.sympatico.ca>
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On May 12, wce@bc.sympatico.ca said:
> Just a short note on gutting your cats (precats, main cat) ....Dyno tests in
> Europe indicate that gutting your cats have a marginal, if any, effect upon
> 3S TT's which are running over 400hp with stock exhaust systems.

Hm..an 80hp increase with just an open-air filter and a boost controller?
This sounds too good to be true.  If this were indeed true, then I know what
my next mod is gonna be, 'cuz I already have a K&N filter in an otherwise
stock (performance-wise) car.

-sankar
'97 VR4
Mods: K&N FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake lines, Porterfield Rotors and R4S
brake pads in front, SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod, Michelin Pilot
XGT Z4 tires.

--
*******************************************************************************
Welcome to the bridge, Mr. LaForge.
    -- Picard, "Contagion", stardate 42609.1
*******************************************************************************
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 11:05:21 1999
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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Doesn't gutting the cats give your turbos quicker spool up so your quarter
miles times be a lil faster????

-----Original Message-----
From: Yoss [mailto:yoss@aracnet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 2:02 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats

On May 12, wce@bc.sympatico.ca said:
> Just a short note on gutting your cats (precats, main cat)
....Dyno tests in
> Europe indicate that gutting your cats have a marginal, if
any, effect upon
> 3S TT's which are running over 400hp with stock exhaust
systems.

Hm..an 80hp increase with just an open-air filter and a
boost controller?
This sounds too good to be true.  If this were indeed true,
then I know what
my next mod is gonna be, 'cuz I already have a K&N filter in
an otherwise
stock (performance-wise) car.

-sankar
'97 VR4
Mods: K&N FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake lines,
Porterfield Rotors and R4S
brake pads in front, SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod,
Michelin Pilot
XGT Z4 tires.

--

****************************************************************************
***
Welcome to the bridge, Mr. LaForge.
    -- Picard, "Contagion", stardate 42609.1

****************************************************************************
***
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 11:09:04 1999
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Wed, 12 May 1999 13:08:08 -0500
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:12:43 -0500
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Just picket the dealership in question.. Stand out front of their new car
sales area with signs and flyers saying:

Don't' buy Mitsubishi, they do not honor their warranty.
About two hours of this on a busy Saturday, they will honor the warranty.
They can't afford not to.
Just make sure to check to see if you have to have a permit and check local
laws regarding "non-violent demonstrations" before you begin.


> Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Terry Swift
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 12:06 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!

Doesn't surprise me one single bit.  They (Mitsu) will do anything from
having to honor an agreement they put in place themselves.  They have proven
that over and over again especially with the 3si.

My advice is to have the guy take all his documentation on when he first
started having problems with the tranny (hopefully he visited a dealership
and got some type of documents) and the receipt for the boost controller and
show them that it happened prior.  Then get on the horn / fax to Mitsu Corp.
both here in the USA and Japan and lay it all out and DEMAND they stand up
to THEIR warranty.  If that doesn't work, then the BBB and other Consumer
Agencies.  Another resort is to get ahold of the local TV stations that do
Consumer Action type items and have them do a report on it (that is if it's
up and up).  Alot of publicity like this in the news will usually get some
action - especially when it looks bad for the Dealerships / Manufacturer.
--

On Wed, 12 May 1999 10:00:43   Nick Xiong wrote:
>Hi guys I forwarding this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any advice
>contact him
>
>>  Basically, after months of fighting different Mitsubishi dealerships
>and > explaining to them that my transmission was failing; I had finally
>found
>one > that would replace my transmission within my 12month/12,000 mile
>warranty (
>> from last July of 1998 when I had a new transmission put in).
>Everything
>was > set and had an appointment to install a new transmission yesterday
>under
>> warranty.  Well after I dropped my car, the service manager had called
>me
>> back and stated that, "Your car has been altered by an after-market
>boost
>> controller; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4.  I
>did
>> not know that about your car when you came to us last week".   This
>Service
>> manager stated to me that he even documented my vin# in Mitsubishi's
>system
>> that my car was "altered & modified".  Meaning that no other Mitsubishi
>
>> dealership would honor any warranty transmission.  In other words, he
>"black > balled"  (service manager's own words) me!
>>
>>  I don't understand?!; There are several Mitsubishi dealers and other
>> manufacturer's (such as Toyota) that allow their customers warranty
>work
>even > with their modifications.  But this guy just tried to act
>conservative with
>> me!  I truly thought of removing my boost controller and boost gauge
>before
>I > dropped the car; but when I took the car in last week and explained
>my
>> problem with the transmission, they had originally approved it and made
>an
>> appointment for me!?  But after my whole day of planning (taking time
>off
>> from work) and making arrangements to drop my VR4 off for the warranty
>> transmission that I was entitled to; they DENIED me of my right to my
>> warranty transmission.
>>  Anyway, I have spoken to several other VR4 owners and they stated to
>find > this Letter from GReddy that states that the GReddy Profec B
>conforms to
>> manufacturer's standards; and that will help my case.  All I want is
>what I
>> am entitled to:  the new transmission under my warranty.  I was DENIED
>that!
>> I even tried to explain that I had just recently installed that boost
>> controller but had transmission problems way before I installed the
>> modification.
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 11:19:34 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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References: <19990512.100043.-145787.0.nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 11:17:24 -0700
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> Hi guys I forwarding this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any advice
> contact him
> > back and stated that, "Your car has been altered by an after-market
> boost
> > controller; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4


I doubt that it's that easy for them to void a warranty. SEMA the aftermarket trade
group has been fighting this problem for years. One of the key points on your
side is that they have to prove that the modification resulted in the failure of the
transmission.  The modification was not done to the transmission.
[ spend a few bucks and talk to a contract lawyer ].
You can argue that you were running moderate boost and used it primarily
for passing on two lane roads. You might also try to talk to someone at SEMA
maybe they can recommend a course of action. Or maybe just a small claims
action might jog the dealer into action, in Calif. you can get up to $5000 in a
small claims judgment . I assume in that case you need to spend money
to repair it first .
Another point is to get the dealer to decline in writing and state the reason for
not repairing your car. In addition write down as many details of this search
to find a dealer as you can while the memory is still fresh. If you go to court the
more written documentation you have the better.

           Good luck --  Keep us up to-date --   Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 12:03:35 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
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> > Hi guys I forwarding this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any advice
> > contact him
> > > back and stated that, "Your car has been altered by an after-market
> > boost
> > > controller; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4

  I know that here in Va, and possibly other states, the manufacturer cannot void a
warranty based on modifications.  They can deny a repair where the loss was caused as a
direct result of a modification, and they have to substantiate this.  I'd definitely get
it in writing, and refer to the owner's manual.  Coverage's are stated there, and if
what they say isn't in the manual, they're lying.  Get it in writing, with the reason
why they refuse to cover it, I'd even go as far as to have them site the owner's
manual/warranty book in the letter.  I'd then take the letter to the BBB and other
places, not sure the insurance commissioner would get involved in warranty claims.  I
like the idea of picketing also, check the laws first though.
  Had I known the above when I had my trans replaced over 2 years ago, I would have
laughed and shoved my old transmission up the service advisor's a** after he told me my
clutch was releasing high, and my new trans would have no warranty if I didn't replace
the clutch also.

Here's to Mitsu, they suck and blow...
Jason

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 12:23:13 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:21:25 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!! i'M BLACKED TOO!!!
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I was black listed by MITSU AS WELL!!!  My engine had problems under
warranty.  I took it to Mitsu 4  times to have it fixed.  The 4th time it was
supposively completely fixed
The next day....the car threw a rod.  Mitsu told me they were going to
warranty the car....then 15 min. later....they  told me they changed their
mind.   Mitsubishi is very rediculous and sorry in America.   They also don't
know how to work on their own cars.  You will never get them to warranty it
now....unless you pay thousands for an attorney.
I like  my car....but I HATE Mitsubishi with a passion.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 13:21:15 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Smart Tire
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:24:50 -0500
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Hey everyone,

I ran across this product on the DSM digest and I thought I would forward it
to the group.  Its a tire pressure monitor.  The sensors go inside each tire
and the monitor mounts in the cabin of your car.  Looks really cool.  I
think its similar to what the new Vettes have.  Has anyone tried this
product?  Check it out at:  http://www.smartire.com/scstore/index.html
Any thoughts??

later,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:10:36 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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> Does anyone know if you gut the pre-cats, will we still pass
> New York State instpection?

Why not asking the department <g> ?
How do they do the test and how do they want to find out if the pre-cats are
still there ? With our pollution test  here in Europe, the pre-cats do not give
anything when the main cat is hot. On my car currently running no cat (for
tests, of course) it smells different when hot than with a cat. When driving out
of the garage in the morning smell is the same.

Cheers,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:10:37 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:48:52 +0200
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The one thing that works good for this purpose is direct Water Injection.
Unfortunately, we do not have a lot space left in the engine bay and I still
haven't found a place for the pump :(

Get more information on the Aquamist homepage :

Cheers,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:10:40 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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> Doesn't gutting the cats give your turbos quicker spool up so your quarter
> miles times be a lil faster????

This is one of the main purposes speed-wise. Power-wise the effectivity of the
turbos will raise and the same compressed air will be less heaten up. The last
is caused by the better effectivity, plus the less heat due to the better
evapuration of the O2 sensor housing.

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:10:41 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com> <199905121726.NAA17455@egate3.citicorp.com> <3739BF2E.6CFCCFAC@bc.sympatico.ca> <19990512110213.A15892@shell2.aracnet.com>
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> Hm..an 80hp increase with just an open-air filter and a boost controller?
> This sounds too good to be true.

FOR SURE it is TRUE ! Remeber, you are running on an ultra-save boost-level and
high-rich fuel system. Cranking up the boost is the basic mod on all turbo
engines. No way around this !

> If this were indeed true, then I know what my next mod is gonna be, 'cuz I
> already have a K&N filter in an otherwise stock (performance-wise) car.

BUT, please follow any advice you find on teh net and DO NOT OVERBOOST ! You can
check out my ignorance-pictures on my web site ;-/

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:10:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com> <199905121726.NAA17455@egate3.citicorp.com> <3739BF2E.6CFCCFAC@bc.sympatico.ca>
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Just a small note :)

> Just a short note on gutting your cats (precats, main cat) ....Dyno tests in
> Europe indicate that gutting your cats have a marginal, if any, effect upon
> 3S TT's which are running over 400hp with stock exhaust systems.

All three cars still had their pre-cats still in the path. Mikes and mine both
had a testpipe and cat-back while Jims had still the full stock exhaust
installed. Jims peaked at the highest hp level while mine had the higher tourque
curve in the mid rpms (due to the 13Gs). For sure the pre-cats will be
eliminated sometimes and then the dyno should show the real figures again.

Cheers,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:12:47 1999
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My european owners manual says the following :

"Changing the system in any way not aproved by Mitsubishi will void your
worldwide 3year warranty"

I think this is clear enough ... and, of course, you will change the performance
mods back to stock before you go to a dealer ;-)

Cheers,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:14:05 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Hot Weather Performance
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Sorry, forgot the URL for the water injection :

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:22:49 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Smart Tire
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For sure a good product !

But why do they not tell you any price ?? Furthermore, they let YOU give a price
when you want to order it. So how much would you pay for this feature ?

> Has anyone tried this product?  Check it out at:
> http://www.smartire.com/scstore/index.html

Cheers,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:34:30 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com> <199905121726.NAA17455@egate3.citicorp.com> <3739BF2E.6CFCCFAC@bc.sympatico.ca> <19990512110213.A15892@shell2.aracnet.com> <3739FA16.24C56786@swissonline.ch>
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Roger is absolutely correct  with his advise here, and can be backed up by a myriad of
others who found out the hard way---*do not boost past 1 bar* (that's 15psi). Otherwise
count on a rebuild sooner or later, and it'll likely be sooner than you want, and more
expensive than you dreamed!!!. Set it at 1 bar and leave it there! If you decide on the
fuel mods and turbo mods, then peruse our archives for threads on this... or start
interacting with Roger, Chris, Barry, Jack, and numerous others here, who are the bona
fide heavyweights with these mods and can save you a whole bunch of heartache with some
advise.

R.G. wrote:

> > Hm..an 80hp increase with just an open-air filter and a boost controller?
> > This sounds too good to be true.
>
> FOR SURE it is TRUE ! Remeber, you are running on an ultra-save boost-level and
> high-rich fuel system. Cranking up the boost is the basic mod on all turbo
> engines. No way around this !
>
> > If this were indeed true, then I know what my next mod is gonna be, 'cuz I
> > already have a K&N filter in an otherwise stock (performance-wise) car.
>
> BUT, please follow any advice you find on teh net and DO NOT OVERBOOST ! You can
> check out my ignorance-pictures on my web site ;-/
>
> Regards,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
> ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
> Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads
>
> Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
>



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:41:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 18:37:55 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the bolts off!!!
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Hey guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE BOLTS
OFFWHEN THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've been riding my bike back and
forth all day ....miles now.......because tools keep breaking.   this is
highly agrivating!!!!!  I've tried to use wd-40 on it and everything.    What
tool or method am I going to have to use to get these damn things off???     
   Please  help!!!!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:43:41 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:02:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Drag Slicks question
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I don't know about full drag slicks in 17's.  Nitto makes some nice Drag
Radials in a 275/40-17 though.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:43:55 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:38:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hot Weather Performance
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Nitrous won't hurt anything if properly used.  If you only want something
to make up for hot weather a small 40 or 50 shot will be plenty, and
still small enough not to do any damage as long as you keep enough fuel
flowing.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:44:45 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:26:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
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Sorry for what happened that really sucks.  But, lesson learned.  The
ball is in the dealers court when they get the car, they don't like the
mods they keep their tranny.  I for one would NEVER leave a boost
controller in for warranty work unless you know the people personally.
Leaving it in with unfamiliar people is just begging for trouble.  Well
now you can join in on the bandwagon to get some damn parts released for
the Getcrap tranny's.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:44:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:35:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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A quick comparison-
my friend and I both have 1G VR4's.  He has many more mods than me
INCLUDING gutted pre-cats and an ATR downpipe.  So far he hasn't beat me
at the track or on the street (I have stock downpipe and stock pre cats)
I usually get him by a reasonable amount until about 115mph and up where
he is SLIGHTLY quicker.  So in my opinion, if you have stock turbos a
downpipe and gutted pre cats. DO NOT have a big effect until higher
speeds which you will never reach in the 1/4 mile.  However, with more
mods, (bigger turbos, etc.) I think that it will help a lot.
Just my experienced .02 cents
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:44:54 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:10:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Taking out cats
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First of all anything over 150 dollars for two small pre cat replacements
is rediculous.  Don't get me wrong, I am in no way a cheap skate, but I
think that anyone willing to spend 300, 500, etc. on pre cat replacements
needs their heads completely examined.  A new pipe will NOT make that
much of a difference over gutting them.  And I also DO NOT agree with the
theory of gutting them will make the exhaust gasses expand to quickly and
therefore lose velocity.  Think about it, the exhaust gasses coming out
of the turbo are running dead smack into a brick wall when your pre cats
are in tact.  Save the money on replacements for something else and just
gut them.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 15:53:21 1999
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From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
To: "3000/Stealth Technical List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Small Hood Scoop
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 18:00:14 -0500
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All,

Does anyone know were I might find a small (6" x 8") hood scoop that I could
mount behind my passenger side pop-up head light.  I'm committed to getting
fresh air into my K&N, and it appears the only good way to do it is a
straight shot through the hood.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 16:18:22 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:17:33 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise question
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In a message dated 99-05-12 04:26:14 EDT, you write:

<< It went into the shop yesterday & today they rang & told me that 21 of
the 24 lash adjusters were worn & the whole set are now going to be
replaced ( gotta love that extended warrantye ) >>


Did they describe what criteria they use to determine worn valves? I'm
thinking of opening up my engine to clean the lash adjusters and I'd like to
know how to identify worn adusters. It would be nice if I could take some
kind of measurement with a calipers to determine worn/not worn.

Paul Klusman
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 16:29:11 1999
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From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Organization: University of Washington
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Newbie Q's - Common Probs
References: <02ba01be9c65$27a669c0$d1e586cd@BobForrest>
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Bob Forrest wrote:

> |This is a list of the more common problems with these cars:

> |  3.  Driver's seatbelt failing to retract

> The seatbelt retraction problem is usually due to the retractors
> "gunking up", and can be fixed by cleaning the guides with a
> pen-knife or blade.  Of course if you kink them up, the ironing
> trick works too...

I had this same problem for some time, and I found out the cause
just recently.  I had the plastic seatbelt access cover off, and I
noticed that the seatbelt was "twisted" once over inside this cover.
I flipped it over (you have to re-weave it through the guide) so
that it was properly aligned, and now it retracts perfectly.

Two problems that are rather problems that weren't mentioned
are:  1) faulty ECS system,  2) faulty active aero system ... AMHIK

--Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 17:19:34 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Smart Tire
References: <D193EB62970FD211B47A00609451F0B202160333@ellis.int.westgroup.com> <3739FF04.36C7E36F@swissonline.ch>
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Funny, I just checked it out about an hour ago.  I got as far as
starting to order one for each of my vehicles and then it came up with
the price of $299.00 for a passenger car.  I bailed at this point: that
is just way too much money!  I'll use my $5 air gauge tank you.

Regards,
Lynn

"R.G." wrote:
>
> For sure a good product !
>
> But why do they not tell you any price ?? Furthermore, they let YOU give a price
> when you want to order it. So how much would you pay for this feature ?
>
> > Has anyone tried this product?  Check it out at:
> > http://www.smartire.com/scstore/index.html
>
> Cheers,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 18:53:12 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the bolts off!!!
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Hi MitsuVR41;

Try using penitrating oil---soak it on overnight and then break them loose in the
morning. If they still are seized, you might have to cut them off ( with a blade or a
cutting torch). The price of of new nuts and bolts is insignificant to the hassel
involved though.

Best

Darc

MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> Hey guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE BOLTS
> OFFWHEN THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've been riding my bike back and
> forth all day ....miles now.......because tools keep breaking.   this is
> highly agrivating!!!!!  I've tried to use wd-40 on it and everything.    What
> tool or method am I going to have to use to get these damn things off???
>    Please  help!!!!
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 19:31:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 22:32:39 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
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Brad's right, A guy did this 3 Saturdays in a row here and the dealer
is now closed. Shame them into it and don't give in easily.


> Just picket the dealership in question.. Stand out front of their new car
> sales area with signs and flyers saying:
>
> Don't' buy Mitsubishi, they do not honor their warranty.
> About two hours of this on a busy Saturday, they will honor the warranty.
> They can't afford not to.
> Just make sure to check to see if you have to have a permit and check local
> laws regarding "non-violent demonstrations" before you begin.
>
> > Brad
> Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> > E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Terry Swift
> Sent:   Wednesday, May 12, 1999 12:06 PM
> To:     stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject:        Re: Team3S: VR4 owner blacklisted by mitsu!!!
>
> Doesn't surprise me one single bit.  They (Mitsu) will do anything from
> having to honor an agreement they put in place themselves.  They have proven
> that over and over again especially with the 3si.
>
> My advice is to have the guy take all his documentation on when he first
> started having problems with the tranny (hopefully he visited a dealership
> and got some type of documents) and the receipt for the boost controller and
> show them that it happened prior.  Then get on the horn / fax to Mitsu Corp.
> both here in the USA and Japan and lay it all out and DEMAND they stand up
> to THEIR warranty.  If that doesn't work, then the BBB and other Consumer
> Agencies.  Another resort is to get ahold of the local TV stations that do
> Consumer Action type items and have them do a report on it (that is if it's
> up and up).  Alot of publicity like this in the news will usually get some
> action - especially when it looks bad for the Dealerships / Manufacturer.
> --
>
> On Wed, 12 May 1999 10:00:43   Nick Xiong wrote:
> >Hi guys I forwarding this from turbodrvn@aol.com, anyone w/any advice
> >contact him
> >
> >>      Basically, after months of fighting different Mitsubishi dealerships
> >and > explaining to them that my transmission was failing; I had finally
> >found
> >one > that would replace my transmission within my 12month/12,000 mile
> >warranty (
> >> from last July of 1998 when I had a new transmission put in).
> >Everything
> >was > set and had an appointment to install a new transmission yesterday
> >under
> >> warranty.  Well after I dropped my car, the service manager had called
> >me
> >> back and stated that, "Your car has been altered by an after-market
> >boost
> >> controller; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4.  I
> >did
> >> not know that about your car when you came to us last week".   This
> >Service
> >> manager stated to me that he even documented my vin# in Mitsubishi's
> >system
> >> that my car was "altered & modified".  Meaning that no other Mitsubishi
> >
> >> dealership would honor any warranty transmission.  In other words, he
> >"black > balled"  (service manager's own words) me!
> >>
> >>      I don't understand?!; There are several Mitsubishi dealers and other
> >> manufacturer's (such as Toyota) that allow their customers warranty
> >work
> >even > with their modifications.  But this guy just tried to act
> >conservative with
> >> me!  I truly thought of removing my boost controller and boost gauge
> >before
> >I > dropped the car; but when I took the car in last week and explained
> >my
> >> problem with the transmission, they had originally approved it and made
> >an
> >> appointment for me!?  But after my whole day of planning (taking time
> >off
> >> from work) and making arrangements to drop my VR4 off for the warranty
> >> transmission that I was entitled to; they DENIED me of my right to my
> >> warranty transmission.
> >>      Anyway, I have spoken to several other VR4 owners and they stated to
> >find > this Letter from GReddy that states that the GReddy Profec B
> >conforms to
> >> manufacturer's standards; and that will help my case.  All I want is
> >what I
> >> am entitled to:  the new transmission under my warranty.  I was DENIED
> >that!
> >> I even tried to explain that I had just recently installed that boost
> >> controller but had transmission problems way before I installed the
> >> modification.
> >
> >
> >___________________________________________________________________
> >You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> >Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> >or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
> HotBot - Search smarter.
> http://www.hotbot.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 20:17:46 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the bolts off!!!
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MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> HOW GET BOLTS OFF WHEN RUSTED OVER?
> tools keep breaking.    I've tried  wd-40.    What
> tool or method?

Best way:  Get a compressor and a half-inch impact wrench with
a set of extended reach impact sockets.  The PROPER size will
probably zing off all the rust and then spin around the bolt, but then
the 1mm SMALLER size will fit and work great.  I know,
I just did it the other day.  Airpowered impact wrenches RULE
for this, and harmonic damper bolts, etc.

BTW, the Ingersoll-Rand model 2131 is best so far, it spins the
Snap-On and Mac impacts in REVERSE when my buddies have
"Impact Wars" to see what tools are really top dog  :)

Jack T.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 20:43:27 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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References: <83ccaf61.246b5cc3@aol.com> <373AECDA.31D95CA0@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the bolts off!!!
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----- Original Message -----
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 8:16 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!! Can't get the bolts off!!!


> Best way:  Get a compressor and a half-inch impact wrench with
> a set of extended reach impact sockets. 


Additional note --- use a six point socket for best grab, the twelve point
do have a tendency to round the nut easier. Impact sockets are generally
six point but many folk don,t have a complete set.

Jim  Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 21:00:15 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com> <199905121726.NAA17455@egate3.citicorp.com> <3739BF2E.6CFCCFAC@bc.sympatico.ca>
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wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
gutting precats, main cat Dyno tests in Europe

> indicate gut cats have marginal if any effect on 3S TT's
> running over 400hp with stock exhaust equipped with only a
> BC and K&N. To increase HP over this larger injectors
> and turbos are next step, after which consider exhaust system.  gutting cats on
> stock turbo stock injector is foolish and will likely net you more problems
> for negliable top end performance and poorer bottom end.  same for the cat back system.
> Unless you're going to go wild and hairy with
> fuel and turbos, leave the cats alone.
> Darc

I disagree with this cat statement.  With all due respect to the dyno testing which has been

interesting, it is still anecdotal and here is my anecdote.

My stock 94 3000VR4 did a 14.79 @ 90mph after I bought it in March 1999.
It was slow.  It was a TURD.  I took the wastegate hoses
OFF for max boost potential and that didn't help.
I gutted the main cat and did a 13.24 @ 103, feathering the throttle to avoid
the now-easy to hit fuelcut!  It spooled like a dream!
The main cat was semi melted/filled with crap.  It turns out that (just discovered
last weekend) the rear PREcat had totally self-destructed and sent all its material
into the frontend of the maincat, and a fist-sized chunk of the after-part of the
FRONT cat did the same...so plugging up the maincat, and costing BIG
performance.

MAYBE everybody else's cats but mine are all in perfect shape; MAYBE
some people's are only PARTLY plugged up, and they are wandering around
WONDERING WHY their car just isn't QUITE as fast as some of those others on the
internet, 'cause the CATS can't be to blame because some dyno tests said...

Any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust costs performance/spoolup.  If the
dyno cars lost SIGNIFICANT bottom end then they may have been too lean on the bottom
and computer didn't understand it; there may be some effect of superior cylinder
cleanout that the cam/mixture/ignition is not optimized for.  I agree that the stock
exhaust is really not bad, but as you increase gas flow it starts to choke off
further gains more and more, like a parabolic/logarithmic curve.
Gutting cats is a basic mod IMO.  It is a factor
easily removed from the equation for free (or replace them for small cost) that
CAN make from little (in some experiences) to an unbelievable LOT (in my
experience on one of my 2 VR4) of difference.

The same 94 with bleeder valve boost control,  K&N, and gutted MAIN
cat (rear precat also blown out as noted above) did 12.682@107.20mph
at dragstrip.

The first mod on these cars is a bleeder valve for upping the boost.
If you want some minor increases from that first and most important step,
get a K&N filter (kit for DSM's since cheaper and bigger filter; I can't document
how much filter helps, I think it is quite minor but is cheap) and
I'd say main cat replace with testpipe or gut 'for offroad use only'.
After that, gut precats and consider a downpipe and an exhaust.

Then you will be frustrated with fuelcut and will be needing bigger
fuelpump and 550/560 injectors and VPC to control injectors...

BTW, VPC/GCC with 720 injectors took car to 12.386 and 109.5mph at drags,
front precat still partly there, no other changes.  Stock exhaust except gutted main
and rear precat.  Nice and quiet!

And then some bigger turbos...

Once you are over 18psi you are starting to court piston breakage unless you have
excellent (over 100 octane) gas.  Of course, it is certainly possible to go
to 22-25psi with a little nitrous and do just fine for a pretty long time, too...
"ask yourself one question:  do you feel lucky?"  Forged pistons are needed here.

Jack Tertadian



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 22:20:33 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the bolts off!!!
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fwiw, I had the same problem  (yeah, I know.. who hasn't..) and there was NO
F%@#ing way it was coming off with oil or an impact wrench..  took it to my
favorite local muffler guy who proceeded to heat it to a nice glowing orange
with a torch..  came right off although it still took some effort..  now, I
know you might not want to ask a shop to do the cat excavation work, but once
it's broken free you could take it back home and do it..  I would also suggest
taking new nuts and bolts to replace the rusted ones..  (make sure they're
brass though to keep them from seizing again..  I think brass is right..)

hmm..  it just dawned on me that the car may not be in a drivable condition..
in that case, nevermind..  also, don't bother trying to use a propane torch..
it won't get nearly hot enough..

Dave
ex 91 VR4 owner  :(
but actively looking for a replacement!  :)

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hi MitsuVR41;
>
> Try using penitrating oil---soak it on overnight and then break them loose in the
> morning. If they still are seized, you might have to cut them off ( with a blade or a
> cutting torch). The price of of new nuts and bolts is insignificant to the hassel
> involved though.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hey guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE BOLTS
> > OFFWHEN THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've been riding my bike back and
> > forth all day ....miles now.......because tools keep breaking.   this is
> > highly agrivating!!!!!  I've tried to use wd-40 on it and everything.    What
> > tool or method am I going to have to use to get these damn things off???
> >    Please  help!!!!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 12 23:06:40 1999
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on a related subject, I think the bozz speed bonnet scoops for the '91-'93 look pretty
cool, but there is no way I'm paying $380 for two unpainted pieces of fiberglass.  I'm
futzing around with molds and plaster casts right now, just for the hell of it.  I
might try making my own.

Dave


Trent wrote:

> All,
>
> Does anyone know were I might find a small (6" x 8") hood scoop that I could
> mount behind my passenger side pop-up head light.  I'm committed to getting
> fresh air into my K&N, and it appears the only good way to do it is a
> straight shot through the hood.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 01:22:49 1999
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Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 99-05-12 04:26:14 EDT, you write:
>
> << It went into the shop yesterday & today they rang & told me that 21 of
>  the 24 lash adjusters were worn & the whole set are now going to be
>  replaced ( gotta love that extended warrantye ) >>
>
> Did they describe what criteria they use to determine worn valves? I'm
> thinking of opening up my engine to clean the lash adjusters and I'd like to
> know how to identify worn adusters. It would be nice if I could take some
> kind of measurement with a calipers to determine worn/not worn.
>
> Paul Klusman
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

I'm not sure Paul.
The service guy just said that 21 of weren't "within spec". But I'm not
sure of the measurement that they use.

Andrew
Australia
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 02:31:15 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: NHRA Rule book?
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 02:30:54 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Aso8@aol.com <Aso8@aol.com>

|Is there a copy of the NHRA Rule Book on line someplace?


It's about 300 pages if I remember correctly, so I doubt it...
Sears Point Raceway has a 5 page summary of the most pertinent rules
as they interpret them.  Download it at:
www.bobforrest.com/Team3S/NHRA-Rules.zip

If there's something questionable, check with your local track for
clarification.

Forrest


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 02:49:29 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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> I usually get him by a reasonable amount until about 115mph and up where
> he is SLIGHTLY quicker.  So in my opinion, if you have stock turbos a
> downpipe and gutted pre cats. DO NOT have a big effect until higher
> speeds which you will never reach in the 1/4 mile.

Well, I assume that you both have the main cat in place, right ? It would help
to see if the temperature inside the y-pipe decreased after gutting the
pre-cats. With this, you can increase the boost a little that finally gives the
advantage. Just watch out to stay rich and the IDC is not going too high ;-)
Also your friend got a test-pipe for the ATR dp and I wonder if he ever used it.
Last but not least, the comparision MUST be done at exactly the same boost
level, otherwise you can't say the one is faster than the other.

> However, with more mods, (bigger turbos, etc.) I think that it will help a
> lot.

Yep, upgrading the exhaust makes only sense after the fuel system has been
upgraded. Jack went the cheap and performance-wise way. For him a cat-back like
the Borla would help to save a lot of weight that finally gives better 1/4 mile
times but not really a lot of performance. On my car the weight of the stock
exhaust kept the car low, with the Borla I got a SUV....

I mentioned a technical explanation to the pre-cats in a previous post and about
2 years ago we measured the pressure and temperature in the O2 sensor housing
using an O2 sensor replacement. The result was that the pressure was higher than
supposed (I wish I saved the readings) to be and that's why I then ordered the
downpipe and high flow cat. Unfortunately, I never did such a test again as the
session as just too expensive for just finding out what the new backpressure is.
At this time I never saw a pre-cat but for sure gutting them will lower this
backpressure and therefore increases the turbos ability to spool up.

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 02:49:35 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the bolts off!!!
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Everything is already said but I never used a torch on my cars. Heating the
exhaust up is the key point to get the damn bolts off. I always drive about 15
minutes before I start to remove anything on the exhaust. Of course I wear some
think gloves then, hehe. Also a heat gun (better hairdryer) and lots of WD-40
overnight did a good job for me.

Good luck !
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 02:49:36 1999
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> Does anyone know were I might find a small (6" x 8") hood scoop that I could
> mount behind my passenger side pop-up head light.

Search on the net for "hood scoop" and you'll get some different sites with such
scoops. Of course cutting the hood will be the most effective mod but you can
also do something good to the headlight cover. Just remove the cover and drive
the car (not in rain). If possible, place a temp meter probe close to the filter
and do a back-to-back test. If you see a difference you can either design a
headlight scoop like the one from KAZE but cheaper as well as you can take a
factory cover and mount the scoop on it. This will be cheaper and easier to do
as cutting the hood.

Let us know :)
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 06:53:51 1999
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Maybe you remember that I spoke about the Gremlins in my car that caused the car
to die during traffic and also some stumble in the higher rpms. As I have to
redo some of the mods due to our 5 year interval of government testing (no
comment please) I thought it's a good idea to check the behaviour afterwards.
here my findings :

a) replaced the HKS SBOV with the stock bypass valve

I experienced more lag (with the 13Gs) at the very first ride afterwards. But
the small hesitation when driving on the Autobahn with the cruise control
engaged was gone ! This leads me to the conclusion that a Blitz BOV setup with
the stock bypass valve works the best for performance and cruising. The
stumbling during acceleration was still the same.

b) checked the front plugs
Found out that I've torqued them down way too much. Redid them and I'm happy
that they are still ok

c) During a test ride I exceeded 1bar and then the car stumbled and died
Yeah, of course it rained cats and dogs and I was 3 miles away from home in the
dark forest (huuuhu). The y-pipe was fine and the intercooler piping as well ...
but not the front hard pipe that goes below the water hose. There is a clamp
underneath that was loose.... tststs (I'm my biggest enemy). Car runned good
afterwards but with a lot stumbling above 3000rpms (code set ?)

d) The stumbling behaviour
The exact same behaviour in any gear but starting around 3500 indicated to me
that there is any ignition problem. Unhooked battery to reset any code ... same
results. Inserted back the plastic y-pipe tubing inside the intake pipe (after
the MAS, coming from the bypass valve hole) ... same results.

e) Gremlins ...
My stomach said that this stumbling and the Gremlins I had earlier seem to come
from the same problem: Ignition. Checked the wires : damn loose boots ! I found
No.3 and 6 were so loose that they didn't made good contact.i.e. higher rpms,
less spark -> stumbling -> hesitation. I regapped the contacts, cleaned them and
hooked them up again ... all problems gone (so far).

The last ignition wire plug (Nr.6) is very close to the water hose and therefore
can be pushed out by it during vibration. The best would be a 45° angled boot
would be prefect for it but only custom made wires feature this. As the wire
contact problem seems to be the solution for my "Gremlins" I think it's good to
check them early and often for a prefect seat.

Regards,
Roger


-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads (too soft)

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 07:11:08 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 93 Stealth TT for sale
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:10:39 -0500
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Hey everyone,

A friend of mine is selling his 93 Stealth R/T TT. Go to:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/for-sale.html to get all the
details about it.  The car is located in Minnesota.  Please send all e-mails
privately.

Thank you,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 07:11:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:13:15 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the bolts
  off!!!
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There has been some good advice on how to remove the bolts, however, if
what you told me on the phone the other night is true about the engine
being replaced recently, you may be trying to remove the wrong bolts
because they should have been removed recently to swap engines. I think you
may be going after the ones that hold the front pre-cat to the rest of the
downpipe. I would leave these 2 alone until the downpipe is out from under
thew car. If you can at least remove all necesary bolts to drop the
downpipe, (2 up front next to the motor mount, 2 in the rear up above the
tee in the downpipe, and 2 at the rear of the downpipe in front of the main
cat) the ones that hold the front pre-cat to the downpipe itself will be
much easier to remove with the aid of a vise and a saw. (or taking it to a
shop that has an acetelene torch)

Wayne
PART NUMBERS
Pre-cat nut - MB059359
Pre-cat stud (if any break) - MD014195
Pre-cat gasket - MB687002
Main cat gasket - MB687004


At 05:37 PM 5/12/99 , you wrote:
>Hey guys......go ahead and tell me.....HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THE BOLTS
>OFFWHEN THEY ARE RUSTED OVER????!!!!!! I've been riding my bike back and
>forth all day ....miles now.......because tools keep breaking.   this is
>highly agrivating!!!!!  I've tried to use wd-40 on it and everything.    What
>tool or method am I going to have to use to get these damn things off???     


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 07:42:59 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems gutting my cats!!!  Can't get the boltsoff!!!
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Good advice, but I'd took the dp WITH the cat in place down. This because the
nuts infront the cats are stuck for sure. I had to cut them.

> downpipe. I would leave these 2 alone until the downpipe is out from under
> thew car. If you can at least remove all necesary bolts to drop the
> downpipe, (2 up front next to the motor mount, 2 in the rear up above the
> tee in the downpipe, and 2 at the rear of the downpipe in front of the main
> cat) the ones that hold the front pre-cat to the downpipe itself will be
> much easier to remove with the aid of a vise and a saw. (or taking it to a
> shop that has an acetelene torch)

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 08:13:10 1999
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References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com> <199905121726.NAA17455@egate3.citicorp.com> <3739BF2E.6CFCCFAC@bc.sympatico.ca> <373AF6DA.BD35FF98@execpc.com>
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xwing wrote:

> snip
>
> MAYBE everybody else's cats but mine are all in perfect shape; MAYBE
> some people's are only PARTLY plugged up, and they are wandering around
> WONDERING WHY their car just isn't QUITE as fast as some of those others on the
> internet, 'cause the CATS can't be to blame because some dyno tests said...
>
> Any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust costs performance/spoolup.

snip

Jack... I have to agree with you here...any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust is a
problem, which would include the interior meltdown  you have mentioned. But, the stock system,
if operating properly, is properly tuned. If not, as in the case of chunks of crap melting and
blocking it up, then performance has been compromised and it will be clearly evident. Gutting
and a test pipe are cheapest solution in this case and will in all likelihood give a seat of the
pants performance boost when compared to blocked exhaust performance which  was occurring prior
to this. However, if the stock system is operating as it should, gutting may find results that
are a lot less than what were anticipated, including lower end bog. It also will create the
Emissions Inspection problem noted earlier which can be a major hassle for someone who did not
consider the ramifications of it.  If the car is being prepped for the track, then I am with you
a 100% on gutting the stock system, adding downpipes, test pipe, and replacing it from the cats
back (err,,,where the cats used to be). But if used consistently as a daily vehicle, I'm not
certain this advise is really the best, as low end performance in stop and go traffic has been
consistently reported as compromised, (whereas top end has been reported as better) and
emissions testing will be a big problem down the road. My advise: follow Jack's if you're into
major mods and/or track use...follow mine if you've modest mods and using it for a daily driver.

Best

Darc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 10:13:12 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:13:07 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Rotary noise from engine bay
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Greetings folks,
        I'm hearing a rumbling rotary noise coming from behind and below the
        engine.  It's quite periodic and sounds similar to a diesel engine.
        I don't hear this sound while driving, but only when parked and
        idling.

        Before I get this thing checked at the dealer's tomorrow, I thought I'd
        ask you experts first.

Thanks!
-sankar
'97 VR4
Mods: K&N FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake lines, Porterfield Rotors and R4S
brake pads in front, SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod, Michelin Pilot
XGT Z4 tires.
--
*******************************************************************************
Data: "If I were not a professional, and an android, I would be insulted."
--Data, "The Icarus Factor", Stardate 42
*******************************************************************************
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 10:51:36 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:51:26 -0800
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Subject: Team3S: Rotary noise from engine bay - Addendum
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For all you diagnosticians out there, when Sankar and I
were listening to this noise, it was *not* the typical
lifter-tick noise (which was also present, but at a low
level).  This sound *seemed* to be deeper within the
engine, more-or-less located below the intake plenum, maybe
more pronounced on the passenger side, and sounded similar
to a large diesel engine.  Certainly not a "normal" noise.

Would a broken piston wrist pin make a noise like this?

A bad cam journal?

Rich
-------------------------------------
Yoss wrote:
>
> Greetings folks,
>         I'm hearing a rumbling rotary noise coming from behind and below the
>         engine.  It's quite periodic and sounds similar to a diesel engine.
>         I don't hear this sound while driving, but only when parked and
>         idling.
>
>         Before I get this thing checked at the dealer's tomorrow, I thought I'd
>         ask you experts first.
>
> Thanks!
> -sankar
> '97 VR4
> Mods: K&N FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake lines, Porterfield Rotors and R4S
> brake pads in front, SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod, Michelin Pilot
> XGT Z4 tires.
> --
> *******************************************************************************
> Data: "If I were not a professional, and an android, I would be insulted."
> --Data, "The Icarus Factor", Stardate 42
> *******************************************************************************
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
"If you dig it, do it.
If you really dig it, do it twice"
- Jim Croce  (1943-1973)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 14:19:18 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:18:07 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Will not Idle?
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hey,

I know this has been discussed on this list, but last night, i opened the
hood of my car, to do some foglight work, and the negative end of the battery
came of, thus disconecting my battery, and now, my computer won't let the car
idle, unless the airconditioner is on..  So, i've been told to let the car
idle for a while, and it will eventually reset itself, which i have done,
before this time, to it.. Well.. I've been letting my car idle for about an
hour and a half now, and it's still not wanting to idle  with the
airconditioner off, and ideas?

thanks.

jeff.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 14:25:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:22:28 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Funny Joke 8)
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On the farm lived a chicken and a horse who loved to play together. One day,
the two were playing together when the horse fell into a bog and began to
sink. Scared for his life, the horse whinnied for the chicken to go get the
farmer to go get help!  Off the chicken ran, back to the farm. Arriving, he
searched and searched for the farmer but to no avail, for he had gone to town
with the only tractor.  Running around, the chicken spied the farmer's new
3000GT VR4. Finding the keys inside, the chicken sped off with a length of
rope, hoping he still had time to save his friend's life. Back at the bog,
the horse was surprised, but happy, to see the chicken arrive in the shiny
B'mer, and managed to get a hold of the loop of rope the chicken tossed to
him. After tying the other end to the rear bumper of the farmer's car, the
chicken then drove slowly forward, and with the aid of the powerful car
rescued the horse! Happy and proud, the chicken drove the VR4 back to the
farmhouse, and the farmer was none the wiser when he returned. The friendship
between the two animals was cemented - best buddies, best pals.

A few weeks later, the chicken fell into a mud pit, and soon he too, began to
sink, and cried out to the horse to save his life! The horse thought a
moment, walked over, and straddled the large puddle.  Looking underneath, he
told the chicken to "grab his thingie" and he would then lift him out of the
pit. The chicken got a good grip, and the horse pulled him up and out, saving
his life.

The moral of the story? When you're hung like a horse, you don't need a
3000GT to pick up chicks.


X
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 14:51:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:53:57 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Magnecore
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Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks

Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 14:54:26 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Magnecore
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 16:48:37 -0500
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Mine are red.  Not sure if they are available in black.

Oskar
-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 16:52
Subject: Team3S: Magnecore


>Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
>stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks
>
>Wayne
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Will not Idle?
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> Well.. I've been letting my car idle for about an
> hour and a half now, and it's still not wanting to
> idle  with the airconditioner off, and ideas?

Might pay to check the MAS connection, as this can
come loose and cause problems.  Also check the y-pipe
connection as when this comes off/loose it will cause
problems idling.

You may like to also adjust the idle speed (see site
at http://beam.to/GTO_Manual), but this is probably not
an issue in your case.

Cheers,
Kevin.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 14:59:50 1999
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Mine are orange/red in color.  Do not know if other colors are available.

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth


>Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
>stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks
>
>Wayne


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 15:06:57 1999
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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Magnecor
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:08:47 +1200
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Magnecor's Home page is at http://www.magnecor.com/

The Race wires are Red, and the Conventional High
Performance wires are dark green/black.  You can
have a look at some pictures of their products
at http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/Products.htm

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 15:09:35 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Magnecore
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Orange is what they sent me direct from the factory. They didn't give me a
color choice.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)

-----Original Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:wala@hypertech-inc.com]
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 2:54 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Magnecore


Can anybody tell me what color Magnecore wires are??? I'm not into neon and
stuff, i just want black. Is that possible? Thanks

Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 17:23:40 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
References: <19990512.093204.-236247.0.nxiong@juno.com> <199905121726.NAA17455@egate3.citicorp.com> <3739BF2E.6CFCCFAC@bc.sympatico.ca> <373AF6DA.BD35FF98@execpc.com> <373AEB8D.B2874875@bc.sympatico.ca>
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wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:

> xwing wrote:
> > MAYBE everybody else's cats but mine are all in perfect shape; MAYBE
> > some people's are only PARTLY plugged up, and they are wandering around
> > WONDERING WHY their car just isn't QUITE as fast as some of those others
> > Any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust costs performance/spoolup.
>
> Jack... I agree with you here...any restriction to a properly tuned turbo's exhaust is a
> problem. But, the stock system,
> if operating properly, is properly tuned.  Gutting
> and a test pipe are cheapest solution in this case and will in all likelihood give a seat of the
> pants performance boost when compared to blocked exhaust performance which  was occurring prior
> to this. However, if the stock system is operating as it should, gutting may find results that
> are a lot less than what were anticipated, including lower end bog. It also will create the
> Emissions Inspection problem noted earlier which can be a major hassle for someone who did not
> consider the ramifications of it.  If the car is being prepped for the track, then I am with you
> a 100% on gutting the stock system, adding downpipes, test pipe, and replacing it from the cats
> back .  My advise: follow Jack's if you're into
> major mods and/or track use...follow mine if you've modest mods and using it for a daily driver.
> Darc

Sounds like we agree!  ExCellEnt!
Jack T.
Member
Road Warrior Contingent


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu May 13 19:15:18 1999
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From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gutting out cats
Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:58:54 -0400
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I found gutting the cats made a big difference in my car's performance, =
a '92 stealth tt. The car spools up quicker and definitely pulls much =
harder on the top end. Also the exhaust note, stock system, now sounds =
mean and switching to the tour mode is now a noticeable noise reduction =
where before I could hardly tell when it was activated. I wasn't able to =
do measured performance before and after due to prior to gutting I had a =
bad 2nd synchro, but trust me the car is much more responsive now.
I have 2 modded dsm's so I know a little about modding turbo cars and =
anything you can do to free up the exhaust helps, period! I could see =
how the stock cat-back might not be restrictive, but the stock downpipe =
is a joke. Small piping and 90* bends, I can't believe an aftermarket dp =
wouldn't help here. To give you an idea how a good flowing exhaust helps =
a turbo car consider this. On my talon, running 16g full 3" exhaust, I =
run 18lbs of boost on the street. Replacing the 3" exhaust with the =
stock system, 2" w/ cat, boost dropped to 14lbs and full boost was =
achieved 350rpms later. Btw fuel economy dropped 4mpg with the stock =
exhaust on. Granted a dsm exhaust is probably more restrictive than the =
3000 but it shows what a good exhaust gives you with a turbo car, =
increased power, quicker spool up which more than makes up for any low =
rpm torque loss, increased fuel economy. The power increase, which comes =
from the engine breathing easier, hence working easier, also has the =
benefit of longer life for your engine.=20

----------
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca[SMTP:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 1:49 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats

However, gutting cats on an essentially stock
vehicle (stock turbos, stock injectors) is foolish and will likely net =
you more problems
than you want (Immissions Inspections) ofr marginal to negliable top end =
performance,
and poorer bottom end.  The same holds true for the cat back =
system...for performance
your bucks are better spent elsewhere. Unless you're going to go wild =
and hairy with
fuel and turbos, leave the cats alone. Replacing them after the fact can =
be veeeery
expensive.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 01:38:13 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 04:37:55 EDT
Subject: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!
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I finaly got my exhhaust dropped.....and gutted the front pre-cat.  I'll do
the rear in the morning.  Let me tell everyone!!!  I used a can of  stuff
called PB blaster....it's or seized nuts and bolts....and  it did the  trick.
Now I still had to put some muscle behind the work....I used my legs to pop
em loose... but It beat paying a shop to torch em loose!!  This PB blaster is
highly effective in loosening seized or rusted nuts and bolts. Oh...I need no
new gaskets....studs....or nuts.....they are all in good workable and
re-usable condition.  Another thing....my little trick on the pre-cat was to
drill around the edges first...and chop it all up after it was seperated from
the housing.  So far so good.  I cranked the car up and it sounds tacky but
mean as hell  with no exhaust hooked up!!!     I feel alot better right now. 
Any word on whether or not I should  go ahead and gut the main CAT??   Is it 
a good idea or not?  I have no mods.  All stock here.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 02:03:25 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Will not Idle?
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> Might pay to check the MAS connection, as this can
> come loose and cause problems.  Also check the y-pipe
> connection as when this comes off/loose it will cause
> problems idling.

Unfortunately, this will not help as the car would also not run with the A/C on
if the MAS not properly connected (my own experience)

The best is always to drive the car and not only let it sit at idle ! The ECU
has to relearn from idle up to the midrange rpm and under different loads.

Hope this helps,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 02:03:30 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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> ... but the stock downpipe is a joke. Small piping and 90* bends, I can't
> believe an aftermarket dp wouldn't help here.

It looks funny and theoretically doesn't work well but it does. Remember the
rear bank is only a 3-cylinder 1.5 liter engine part and the exhaust flow is not
that big.

> On my talon, running 16g full 3" exhaust, I run 18lbs of boost on the street.

16G, this is the keyword here ! With our 2 9B (or 13Gs) running 15 psi the
exhaust (without the cats) is no restriction. This is fact ! Going for bigger
turbos and improving the fuel system will then need a better exhaust for sure.

> Granted a dsm exhaust is probably more restrictive than the 3000 but it
> shows what a good exhaust gives you with a turbo car, increased power,
> quicker spool up which more than makes up for any low rpm torque loss,
> increased fuel economy.

No offend broh, but you suggest that a "better exhaust" (what is a better
exhaust ?) will help on these issues for sure. This is not really true and it is
important to say "may gives you more power". The dyno showed that the car with
the stock exhaust had more torque in the lower rpm area as well as he peaked out
the highest hp rate.  My figures would maybe be higher (with 13Gs) with the car
properly tuned in but the winter tires almost glow up on the dyno. There was
absolutely no advantage on the cars with the exhaust mods and the higher torque
curve in the midrange is due to the 13Gs.

> The power increase, which comes from the engine breathing easier, hence
> working easier, also has the benefit of longer life for your engine.

This are benefits that come from physical explainable issues, like temperature
drop, pressure drop. But you then run on 18psi compared to 16 psi and I doubt
that this will give you a longer engine live.

Nevertheless, I hope to put the car onto the dyno with removed pre-cats
sometimes this year so we'll be able to see real figures.

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 03:49:36 1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Newbie Questions
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:32:07 -0700
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>>4. This will sound strange; the belt is too limp. Pull it all the way
>>out and iron it, yes iron it with some starch at the Nylon setting on
>>the iron so you don't melt it. It is so limp that it folds and and
>>wrinkles so it binds and won't retract.

No offence, but I'd rather NOT do that !!!

If you're off by a couple degree, and even if it's NOT visible,
you'll start to change the fabric capability to expand, thus
seriously limiting the effectiveness of the belt in case of a crash.

That's for the SAME reason that a belt being used in an accident MUST be
replaced. When the belt locks, it'll heat at the shoulder contact point,
and the belt will perform nicely...once...second time, the belt may
really be "cut here"....and yes, Police and insurances companies know
about it, and they DO check it.

Henri

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 03:49:41 1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Other Newbie Questions
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 11:09:56 -0700
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Ok guys, my 92 RT/TT-S is still stock (so far), have about 60.000 kms
(40kmi), and I have the  following problems..

Car is stumbling under acceleration, quite a lot of hesitation until I go
WOT...then it runs great.

Check everything in there, and it seems that Magnecore and regappingthe
plugs might be the answer, but I'm not the expert. I already got the plug
wire, and I'm waiting for the plugs and plenum gasket to become available at
my nearest mitsu dealer (special order here, you guys living in the USA do
not realize how lucky you are)...and yup, _I_ had to tell the dealer about
the correct plug number.

The tranny (5 gear) is more and more, crunchy (and NOT, it's NOT me). Even
if I clutch in all the way to the floor, I can still feel the gears
contacting (probably 2nd and 3rd synchro start to go south, maybe 4th as
well). The clutch by itself is still in good condition, i.e not slipping.
And yup, I'm in the Turbo Clutch G.P.

Under WOT, in 2nd and 3rd, I have a wooshing (try to describe a sound with
words), as if something is slipping, from the BACK of the car... Any idea...

The car is still covered by an extended warranty (that's why my timer and
DBSC is still in the box)

Option number one.

I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped plugs)
When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and put
Redline in there.

Option number Two

I complain about the car, and have the work done on the car, tell the
mechanic what to do (i.e. correct gap, made him install the wires, install
the new clutch, fix the grind, and put new tranny oil in
there)...._PROVIDED_ the problems are important enough to be considered
"warranty".....do you think they are.

I certainly do NOT want to have the warranty expire, just to run into
SERIOUS problems.

Another problem I have is that the "best" mitsu dealership in my area do NOT
know the car very well. In fact, even if they have a couple (like in TWO)
3000-GT, they NEVER changed the plugs in a 3-S (8-o(.


Best

Henri

PS: My car is an US-IMPORTED RT/TT...is there any US-RECALL I should have
performed on the car at the same time ???


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 06:51:37 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 09:49:40 -0400
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We use a product at work called Kroil (www.kanolabs.com)  It works like
nothing I have ever used before.  It's amazing, I have never had a bolt snap
off when using this product.   Also a good tip is to rap on the nut you are
trying to loosen with a hammer after you spray your penetrant.  This helps
the solvent creep into the cracks.  I recently did an exhaust system on a
Honda and the shop that worked on it last time just welded the nuts
attaching the converter to the main pipe.  Made my day just a little
brighter !

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com <MitsuVR41@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, May 14, 1999 5:41 AM
Subject: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!


>I finaly got my exhhaust dropped.....and gutted the front pre-cat.  I'll do
>the rear in the morning.  Let me tell everyone!!!  I used a can of  stuff
>called PB blaster....it's or seized nuts and bolts....and  it did the
trick.
> Now I still had to put some muscle behind the work....I used my legs to
pop
>em loose... but It beat paying a shop to torch em loose!!  This PB blaster
is
>highly effective in loosening seized or rusted nuts and bolts. Oh...I need
no
>new gaskets....studs....or nuts.....they are all in good workable and
>re-usable condition.  Another thing....my little trick on the pre-cat was
to
>drill around the edges first...and chop it all up after it was seperated
from
>the housing.  So far so good.  I cranked the car up and it sounds tacky but
>mean as hell  with no exhaust hooked up!!!     I feel alot better right
now.
>Any word on whether or not I should  go ahead and gut the main CAT??   Is
it
>a good idea or not?  I have no mods.  All stock here.
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 06:52:34 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!
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You still need to use new nuts. They are self locking nuts that once used,
expand to a point where they no longer retain they're locking properties.
If you took one of your old ones and a new one, and screwed them both onto
a stud you will see that the old one will go on much easier. Another thing
is, they don't need to be torqued down more than 30 ft-lbs or so (the book
will tell you how much) I'm thinking this may be part of the reason they
were so hard to remove, because the last person to tighten them did so with
an impact wrench to about 100 ft-lbs.

Wayne


At 03:37 AM 5/14/99 , you wrote:
>Oh...I need no
>new gaskets....studs....or nuts.....they are all in good workable and
>re-usable condition.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 07:03:53 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 09:00:19 -0500
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Henri:

>Option number one.
>
>I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped
>plugs)

Do this yourself and be sure it's done right.  This will make a hugs
difference.  Do this ASAP.

>When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and
>put
>Redline in there.

I'd recommend using Redline Shock Proof Heavy in the transfer case for
sure.  However, I haven't had a great experience with it in the
transaxle, and personally prefer GM SynchroMesh.

Good luck!

Best regards,

SJ
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 07:04:16 1999
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From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Gutting out cats
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:18:05 -0400
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----------
From: R.G.[SMTP:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Friday, May 14, 1999 4:52 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats



=20

16G, this is the keyword here ! With our 2 9B (or 13Gs) running 15 psi =
the
exhaust (without the cats) is no restriction. This is fact ! Going for =
bigger
turbos and improving the fuel system will then need a better exhaust for =
sure.
Yeah, good point, with the stock turbos maybe they just can't flow =
enough air to take advantage of a freer flowing exhaust system, but =
gutting the cats definitely made a seat of the pants improvement for me. =
I would like to see if there's a difference above 15 psi, like at 18 or =
20.
=20
No offend broh, but you suggest that a "better exhaust" (what is a =
better
exhaust ?) will help on these issues for sure. This is not really true =
and it is
important to say "may gives you more power". The dyno showed that the =
car with
the stock exhaust had more torque in the lower rpm area as well as he =
peaked out
the highest hp rate.  My figures would maybe be higher (with 13Gs) with =
the car
properly tuned in but the winter tires almost glow up on the dyno. There =
was
absolutely no advantage on the cars with the exhaust mods and the higher =
torque
curve in the midrange is due to the 13Gs.

By better exhaust I mean freer flowing exhaust, less restriction being =
the key here. I think to get really good info on mod improvement its =
best to be using the same car. There might be a lot of other variables =
between cars to try to compare the hp of 1 verses another. It would be =
best to perform the mods on 1 car and record the changes back to back.=20
I haven't seen a loss in low end torque in the dsm's from bigger =
exhausts, I believe its better, but maybe its because the stock turbo's =
in the dsm flow better than the 3000's. I can believe the stock 3000 =
exhaust is not that restrictive from the cat back, it looks pretty good, =
I have a problem with the looks of the dp, there has to be improvement =
available there.

This are benefits that come from physical explainable issues, like =
temperature
drop, pressure drop. But you then run on 18psi compared to 16 psi and I =
doubt
that this will give you a longer engine live.

I agree, what I was trying to convey is an easier working engine will =
last longer, an engine is an air pump, the easier you can get air in and =
out the more power you'll make or have the ability to make.

Nevertheless, I hope to put the car onto the dyno with removed pre-cats
sometimes this year so we'll be able to see real figures.

Now that would be interesting, and it could be that the precats =
prevented you from seeing any benefit of the dp, or maybe the =
aftermarket dp is just not an improvement over stock, design wise.


Bryan
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake =
lines
Bremsa brakes,z-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 08:02:53 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60K Service...
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--=====================_92526560==_.ALT
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All this talk about 60k service and complaints about the quality and price of
work performed at dealerships has got me thinking..........what if i offered a
60k service at a good price, would anybody be willing to travel to Memphis to
have it done? The advantage to having me do it is, unlike the dealers, i take
pride in my work and take my time to do it right. I have 10 years experience
working on Mitsubishi's, starting with Starions, moving on to DSM's, and now
3/S's. Here's a run down of what you would get, and the price;

PARTS REPLACED:
Timing belt
Tensioner
Water Pump
Drive belts
Spark plugs
Air filter
Oil filter

FLUIDS CHANGED:
Oil
Trans fluid
X-fer case
Rear diff

PARTS INSPECTED:
Brake pads
CV Boots
Steering rack seals
Ball joints
Hoses

TRAVEL TIME:
Chicago - 8 hours
ST. Louis - 4 hours
Atlanta - 6 hours

PRICE: $750
As an added bonus, the car will be clean when you get it back...........

Wayne Hietala
901-363-3197

--=====================_92526560==_.ALT
Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii"

<html>
All this talk about 60k service and complaints about the quality and
price of work performed at dealerships has got me thinking..........what
if i offered a 60k service at a good price, would anybody be willing to
travel to Memphis to have it done? The advantage to having me do it is,
unlike the dealers, i take pride in my work and take my time to do it
right. I have 10 years experience working on Mitsubishi's, starting with
Starions, moving on to DSM's, and now 3/S's. Here's a run down of what
you would get, and the price;<br>
<br>
<u>PARTS REPLACED:<br>
</u>Timing belt<br>
Tensioner<br>
Water Pump<br>
Drive belts<br>
Spark plugs<br>
Air filter<br>
Oil filter<br>
<br>
<u>FLUIDS CHANGED:<br>
</u>Oil<br>
Trans fluid<br>
X-fer case<br>
Rear diff<br>
<br>
<u>PARTS INSPECTED:<br>
</u>Brake pads<br>
CV Boots<br>
Steering rack seals<br>
Ball joints<br>
Hoses<br>
<br>
<u>TRAVEL TIME:<br>
</u>Chicago - 8 hours<br>
ST. Louis - 4 hours<br>
Atlanta - 6 hours<br>
<br>
<u>PRICE:</u> $750<br>
As an added bonus, the car will be clean when you get it
back...........<br>
<br>
Wayne Hietala<br>
901-363-3197<br>
</html>

--=====================_92526560==_.ALT--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 08:09:34 1999
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Hi Henri;

Change the plugs and wires yourself and it should take care of the hesitation, no
problem. I'd also be tempted to do the tranny fluid change myself as well and see if it
makes a difference. You never know, it could be a bit low. But, before this it might
also be prudent to take it into Mitsu and take them for a test drive to illustrate the
problem. They may try to say it's not enough of a problem yet for warranty work, but at
least this way you start the documentation process (have them record your complaintand
the symptoms) of a tranny starting to go south.

Best

Darc

Genesiscon Lehir wrote:

> Ok guys, my 92 RT/TT-S is still stock (so far), have about 60.000 kms
> (40kmi), and I have the  following problems..
>
> Car is stumbling under acceleration, quite a lot of hesitation until I go
> WOT...then it runs great.
>
> Check everything in there, and it seems that Magnecore and regappingthe
> plugs might be the answer, but I'm not the expert. I already got the plug
> wire, and I'm waiting for the plugs and plenum gasket to become available at
> my nearest mitsu dealer (special order here, you guys living in the USA do
> not realize how lucky you are)...and yup, _I_ had to tell the dealer about
> the correct plug number.
>
> The tranny (5 gear) is more and more, crunchy (and NOT, it's NOT me). Even
> if I clutch in all the way to the floor, I can still feel the gears
> contacting (probably 2nd and 3rd synchro start to go south, maybe 4th as
> well). The clutch by itself is still in good condition, i.e not slipping.
> And yup, I'm in the Turbo Clutch G.P.
>
> Under WOT, in 2nd and 3rd, I have a wooshing (try to describe a sound with
> words), as if something is slipping, from the BACK of the car... Any idea...
>
> The car is still covered by an extended warranty (that's why my timer and
> DBSC is still in the box)
>
> Option number one.
>
> I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped plugs)
> When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and put
> Redline in there.
>
> Option number Two
>
> I complain about the car, and have the work done on the car, tell the
> mechanic what to do (i.e. correct gap, made him install the wires, install
> the new clutch, fix the grind, and put new tranny oil in
> there)...._PROVIDED_ the problems are important enough to be considered
> "warranty".....do you think they are.
>
> I certainly do NOT want to have the warranty expire, just to run into
> SERIOUS problems.
>
> Another problem I have is that the "best" mitsu dealership in my area do NOT
> know the car very well. In fact, even if they have a couple (like in TWO)
> 3000-GT, they NEVER changed the plugs in a 3-S (8-o(.
>
> Best
>
> Henri
>
> PS: My car is an US-IMPORTED RT/TT...is there any US-RECALL I should have
> performed on the car at the same time ???
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 08:34:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 10:30:44 -0500
From: "Grant McFarlane (EUS)" <EUSGTME@am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Team3S: A-pillar pods & gauges
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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I'm thinking about installing a boost gauge on the A-pillar using the pods
that are available from a number of places. My question is, how much extra
work is involved by mounting on the pillar? Anyone here done it ? Let me
know your experiences.

Thanks,
Grant.
'93 Zurich white 3000GT VR-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 08:53:38 1999
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Message-ID: <000f01be9e21$d1e1d420$3a10adce@concentric.net>
From: "Marc Jaffe" <marc@marcjaffe.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <199905121802.LAA03865@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: ABS Modulator Motor woes!
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 11:52:43 -0400
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For those of you who wish they did not have antilock brakes here is how you
do it!!!

Send me your ABS pump motor located under the passenger side fender. Easy as
that!
My motor is toast due to water getting in through the bolt..totally rusted
and the magnets are loose.

Mitsu wants $2600 for this motor.

It goes with out speaking that i will be without ABS for some time...

Any ideas for replacement? another company? any thing made in the US.?

Rebuildable?

I will be looking at junkyards...do these guys know what this part is worth?

Any other cars use this part so i can get it with out the stigma of the
"sports Car" setback?
The car has 69k miles so I do not belive i can yell at mitsu...
I will be talking to the dealer i bought me car off of lease from.
Any Help out there for this?
Thanx
Marc.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 09:12:23 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS Modulator Motor woes!
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>It goes with out speaking that i will be without ABS for some time...

I could be wrong, but I think emission and safety-related items are covered
under a different warranty.
It may actually be covered  by Mitsu. I doesn't hurt to ask.

Rich/old poop/>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 12:06:14 1999
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> I could be wrong, but I think emission and safety-related items are covered
> under a different warranty.
> It may actually be covered  by Mitsu. I doesn't hurt to ask.

Same here in Europe. Mitsu did the replacing of the two G-sensors in the fenders
on "good will" a year ago. Zero cost for me.

I think you should have to contact another dealer as I'm sure that the price you
were given is absolutely stupid. Try to contact Conicelli Mitsubishi(800)
892-8994 (DSMDealer@aol.com) and, isf possible, give them the part number for
the quote. Just make sure it is only the pump as the ABS ECU could also be
included.

Hope this helps,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 12:06:17 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: A-pillar pods & gauges
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I'm just painted the dual pod gauge holder from Autometer to fit the greyish
interior. The pod fits very good and is usally mounted with the delivered
plastic screws (or push ins). This doesn't look good and due to the good
fittment I'm gonna use a small dual side adhessive tape (used to stick carpets
to the ground)

Depending on what gauges you want you have to route the wires/hoses somewhere.
This can be done by drilling holes into the a pillar cover. But this is not what
I wanted to do.

The dual pod I have can be mounted pretty low, i.e. close fit to the dashboard.
Mounted this way, it should be possible to drill a hole close to the top of the
ventilation port on the left side and route them trough the slit between
dashboard an a-pillar to the new hole.

There are others on the list (like Mike in Germany) who have done this already
and it looked great.

> '93 Zurich white 3000GT VR-4
      ^^^^^^
I like this, hehe :)

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Henri,

> Car is stumbling under acceleration, quite a lot of hesitation until I go
> WOT...then it runs great.

- Running a can of injector cleaner may help (it did on mine)
- wires
- fuel filter
- fuel pump resistor/relay
- at 90'000km the big-big service should be done (Mitsu replaced the water pump
and tensioner pulley as well)
- not sure about regapping as you are still running stock boost levels (do you
?)
- how's the milage (mine is between 12-14l/100km)

> wire, and I'm waiting for the plugs and plenum gasket to become available at
> my nearest mitsu dealer (special order here, you guys living in the USA do
> not realize how lucky you are)...and yup, _I_ had to tell the dealer about
> the correct plug number.

Henri, you have my number ! I'm 10 minutes away from Mitsu headquarter. They do
have almost everything in stock.

> The tranny (5 gear) is more and more, crunchy (and NOT, it's NOT me).

Our trannies are somewhat crunchy. Compared to the 200SX and 300ZX (three times)
I drove the difference is very noticeable (i.e. much better on teh Nissans). The
mechanic just would say that this is normal :/

> Under WOT, in 2nd and 3rd, I have a wooshing (try to describe a sound with
> words), as if something is slipping, from the BACK of the car... Any idea...

Pfhhu, try to drive with a friend in the car listening to the sound. I also
though it is comming from the back but finally it was the noise from the air
filter box :)

> The car is still covered by an extended warranty (that's why my timer and
> DBSC is still in the box)

You know our dealers and they will say that all this stuff is pretty normal for
this car with the amount of km and even more that it is an imported one. The
most important one is the tranny and I don't know if Mitsu will do the work on
the Stealths. The headquarter garage in Winterthur already had some 3000GT from
the States and they have three people who know the cars (plus me, haha)

> I fix my hesitation problem alone (using the wires and regapped plugs)

Sure, plugs and wires are not a big deal.

> When the clutch is there, I change it, and look at the tranny, and put
> Redline in there.

Check the oil in the tranny at first. Especially look for any metallic
praticles.

> I complain about the car, and have the work done on the car, tell the
> mechanic what to do (i.e. correct gap, made him install the wires, install
> the new clutch, fix the grind, and put new tranny oil in
> there)...._PROVIDED_ the problems are important enough to be considered
> "warranty".....do you think they are.

As mentioned, they will probably say that this is quite normal. They probably
will do the the oil stuff (but using what oil ?) but not the plugs/wires as they
don't know how to do it. And I wouldn't feel good if anyone touches the car who
never say a manual !

> I certainly do NOT want to have the warranty expire, just to run into
> SERIOUS problems.

Agreed. Try what you can do and complain about both the problems (hesitation and
tranny) If you're in my area let me know and we can compare the cars.

> PS: My car is an US-IMPORTED RT/TT...is there any US-RECALL I should have
> performed on the car at the same time ???

Yes, there was a brake line TSB. Not a big deal and they did it because I knew
about it and told them to do :)

Good luck and let us know the outcome

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 12:32:00 1999
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> You still need to use new nuts. They are self locking nuts that once used,
> expand to a point where they no longer retain they're locking properties.

I have and never had any problems reusing it. Also the Mitsu dealer reuses them
if they are not damaged due to taking them off the hard way (and they try to
sell you everything). No problems if everything looks good.

> If you took one of your old ones and a new one, and screwed them both onto
> a stud you will see that the old one will go on much easier.

Yes,due to the temperature expansion.No new ones really needed, just luxury :)

Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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For the boost gauge, do you have to run a vacuum hose all the way into the passenger
compartment, up to the gage, or is there a remote sending unit?


"R.G." wrote:

> I'm just painted the dual pod gauge holder from Autometer to fit the greyish
> interior. The pod fits very good and is usally mounted with the delivered
> plastic screws (or push ins). This doesn't look good and due to the good
> fittment I'm gonna use a small dual side adhessive tape (used to stick carpets
> to the ground)
>
> Depending on what gauges you want you have to route the wires/hoses somewhere.
> This can be done by drilling holes into the a pillar cover. But this is not what
> I wanted to do.
>
> The dual pod I have can be mounted pretty low, i.e. close fit to the dashboard.
> Mounted this way, it should be possible to drill a hole close to the top of the
> ventilation port on the left side and route them trough the slit between
> dashboard an a-pillar to the new hole.
>
> There are others on the list (like Mike in Germany) who have done this already
> and it looked great.
>
> > '93 Zurich white 3000GT VR-4
>       ^^^^^^
> I like this, hehe :)
>
> Regards,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 13:02:09 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 15:01:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: PB blaster saves the day on CATS!!
In-Reply-To: <373C79A1.6A45CC2E@swissonline.ch>
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Which kind of self-locking nuts are we talking about here?  Nylon/plastic
insert, interference threads, etc?  That makes a HUGE difference on
whether they are reusable or not.

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

On Fri, 14 May 1999, R.G. wrote:

> > You still need to use new nuts. They are self locking nuts that once used,
> > expand to a point where they no longer retain they're locking properties.
>
> I have and never had any problems reusing it. Also the Mitsu dealer reuses them
> if they are not damaged due to taking them off the hard way (and they try to
> sell you everything). No problems if everything looks good.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 14:01:31 1999
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> For the boost gauge, do you have to run a vacuum hose all the way into the passenger
> compartment, up to the gage, or is there a remote sending unit?

This depends if you have a mechanic or electronic boost gauge. But also
electronic bosot gauges do have the boost sensing device mounted internally
(like the Blitz DSBC). The AutoMeter 30-30 boost gauge is mechanic and uses a
very small tube to sense boost.

// Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 14:03:43 1999
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> Which kind of self-locking nuts are we talking about here?  Nylon/plastic
> insert, interference threads, etc?  That makes a HUGE difference on
> whether they are reusable or not.

No plastic nor nylon. The nuts do have a small flange that slightly compress the
nut when tightened. That's why reusing them is no problem. The nuts used on the
cat have a small interference to prevent from getting loose.

// Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 19:14:17 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
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From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
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Roger and all,
None of the two cars is using a cat. and the one with more mods AND more
boost is still falling behind with the gutted pre cats and downpipe.  So
far both cars have pretty safe EGT's.  That is why in my experiences
gutted pre cats and a downpipe do not help 1/4 mile times much with stock
turbos.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 17:57:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 20:57:24 EDT
Subject: Team3S: oil return line leak...and question
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Okay....there is a silverish line that connects to the oil pan near the
starter.  It has been leaking....so i replaced the gasket....but it is still
leaking through the gasket.  Any Ideas on  how to stop this??  should I try
two gaskets??  Oh.....when the oil leaks...it  runs down and gets on my
exhaust....so that is were the steam has been coming from.  The oil was
burning off the hot exhaust....but I guess at a slow enough rate to make the
steam not to black.  This leak is pretty bad.....I lost like a quarter of a
quart of oil in like two days of not much driving.  I finally got  my
pre-cats gutted!!!  But I need to solve this  problem before I can really
drive around. 
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 20:59:31 1999
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MitsuVR41...(who are you anyway masked man?)

The new gasket leaked ? Hmmm...doubling up may or may not solve it... likely not if you
use the old new gasket and another new one. Better to try doing it again and cleaning
the surfaces real well, then use some gasket spray with a single new gasket. The tacky
spray (a thin layer)  should seal it well and solve the problem.

Best

Darc



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri May 14 23:13:02 1999
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From: BDLSOO7@webtv.net (chris hill)
Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 01:12:58 -0500 (CDT)
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Intake Plenum
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In-Reply-To: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>'s message of Fri, 23 Apr 1999 09:23:03 -0500
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there was a post sometime back about someone building a custom intake
plenium, i think it was brad,but i just wondered if they had allready
built it. and if so, how well does it work? i also like the idea of
another throttle body, has anyone tried this mod yet? just curious.
chris hill
                                              lubbock tx
                                                91 vr4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May 15 02:58:33 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: oil return line leak...and question
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Good you found the cause for the steam !

> Okay....there is a silverish line that connects to the oil pan near the
> starter.  It has been leaking....so i replaced the gasket....but it is still

You are refering to the front turbo return line, right ? Where was it leaking,
at the turbo or the oil pan ?

A problem could be that the line is bent a little as this can happen due to
removing the front turbo. My advise is to remove the bolts at the oil pan and
check how good it fits. Also remove the line at the turbo and check for fitting.
Check the surface of both flanges as well as at the turbo and the oil pan and
finally follow the advice from Darc on mounting the new gaskets (hope you have
the right ones).

> steam not to black.  This leak is pretty bad.....I lost like a quarter of a
> quart of oil in like two days of not much driving.

... and you have the cause for the somewhat low oil-pressure as well.

Hope this helps,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May 15 02:58:35 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Gutting out cats
References: <7057B516B5F8D11198320080296571A22347FC@exchange> <19990513.174051.13790.3.PEARLVR42C@juno.com> <19990515.172804.10710.0.PEARLVR42C@juno.com>
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Dal,

> None of the two cars is using a cat.

So you say that both cars do have gutted pre-cats and no main cat ?? In your
earlier post I though you said that you have still a stock exhaust ? Please
clarify.

> and the one with more mods AND more boost is still falling behind with the
> gutted pre cats and downpipe.  So far both cars have pretty safe EGT's.
> That is why in my experiences gutted pre cats and a downpipe do not help
> 1/4 mile times much with stock turbos.

I agree (if your exhaust is different), as this proves the dyno results of three
cars ! I just hoped that the gutted precats would help more than the rest so the
question is if your friends car is healthy enough to be compared to yours ?
Would it be possible to exchange the front exhaust parts (front
pre-cat/dp/testpipe) and do a retest again ?

You say that the other car has many more mods than yours. Can you please give us
some details on these mods ?

Thanks,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May 15 05:20:32 1999
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MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

>  silver line connects to oil pan near starter leaking.   I replaced gasket but it
> still
> leaking through gasket.  Ideas how to stop?  should I try
> two gaskets?   leak is pretty bad, I lost quarter of a quart in two days.

Unbolt it again.  Take off "new" gasket.  Get ONLY Permatex "Ultra Blue" gasket
sealant stuff.  Clean off the pan side, the pipe side as well as possible and make
sure there is no more of the OLD gasket PARTLY still there making a ledge
that won't seal.  Coat the pipe side, the gasket both sides, and the pan face with
thin coat of Ultra Blue.  Attach pipe again with moderate tight bolts (not SUPERtight,
will
distort pan/flange and sqeeze out too much UltraBlue.)

This should work WELL.  UltraBlue can even seal if both surfaces have a little oil on
them...
Hope this helps!
Jack Tertadian

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May 15 08:19:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 11:18:23 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions. 
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Hi all,

It's great to be back on a 3Si mailing list!   Unfortunately, I am
the one who has recently experienced a Voided/Nulled warranty on my
transmission (some of you already are aware of my situation - Thank you for
your support!).   To make a real long story short (Believe it or not),  I was
DENIED a new transmission by Mitsubishi and got "Black listed" due to my
GReddy aftermarket part.  I know!  Why didn't I take the aftermarket part OUT
before I turned my car in?  Well, they already saw my car and approved it
even with my aftermarket GReddy part in it & scheduled an appointment to get
the job done under warranty!  But, unfortunately the District manager was on
the premises on the day that I brought the car in for the tranny.  They page
me within 45 minutes and stated, "Your car has been altered by an
after-market part; that voids and Nulls any warranty you have on your VR4.  I
did not know that about your car when you came to us last week";  Yeah
right!?  They physically SAW the car!  This Service manager stated to me that
he even documented my vin# in Mitsubishi's system that my car was "altered &
modified".  Meaning that no other Mitsubishi dealership would honor any
warranty transmission.  In other words, he "black balled"  (service manager's
own words) me! 
I am currently working on several options & ideas to pursue the
matter;  I have all documentations needed to make a good case!  The thing is
that I had tranny problems before the mods were put on (thank God, I have
documentations from the Mitsu. dealership that I tried to confirm the
problems but they denied any "faults" in the tranny).  I'll try to keep you
all posted.   If my plans work out, it will be advantageous for all of us on
this list!  But in the meantime, I have to look into alternative plans &
ideas.   I have a few questions that I need to ask you all.

My questions are: 

1)   Is there any way to install another type of transmission into a 1st.
generation
VR4?   Such as installing a 4th. generation Twin Turbo Supra six
speed trans?  I
believe the Supra transmission is also made by Getrag.  What
alterations would I
have to perform to the Supra trans. (rear wheel drive) to comply with
my AWD set up?
2) Does anyone have the phone #  to Getrag (Germany); or website or
email?
3) I believe there was someone on the starnet list that was able to take
apart our transmissions and was working on getting new parts from
Getrag!  Who was that?  Was that Jack Tertadian (ooopss, I hope I
spelled his name right!)?  Does
anyone know how to contact him?
4) Has anyone upgraded their 1st. Generation 5 speed 3Si to a Getrag 3Si
6 speed? If so,  have you experienced any problems?  I am aware of the
following:  Thanks to Arty!

Transmission:   W6mg1:   MB896324
Transfer case:                  MB896326
Rear end Gears:               MB185450    (3.307 gears, may need some sort
of shim pack, depending on how to properly set the ring & pinion gears up)
DriveShaft assembly:        MR111394    You can either buy a new one, or
have yours lengthened about an inch (measure Before you send it to a
driveshaft shop)

To make the install "right"
Add these part #'s

Shifter Cables:                MR102669

Those of you with the 91-93.4 cars:

Shifter lever:                   911854
Pivot:                              911858

Thank you all in advance,
I truly appeciate all the support I have received from some of you via
private emails. (since the list was down, I had no access to our 3Si mailing
list - But it's great to finally be back on!).

Ahmed.
'92 VR4  (right now I'm too depressed about listing all my mods due to the
fact that it cost me a warrantied tranny to be DENIED).

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May 15 09:34:33 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: oil return line leak...and question
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Are you sure it's leaking at the gasket contact area or could it be a
crack at the flange? If the return line tubing has been vibrating or
bumped if could have created a fine crack that allows the pressurized
oil to leak and look like a bad gasket seal. Clean it and see if you
can see if the actual leak is where the tubing meets the flange.

Ron
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May 15 22:13:16 1999
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Best clutch??
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 01:07:38 -0400
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I am curious what you guys feel is the best clutch for a car with a borla
exhaust, hks intake and hks boost controller.  I know the stock isn't the
best but what would be good for the car with those mods?  Also what is the
usual price for putting a new clutch in, I know it isn't easy.  Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat May 15 23:21:19 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
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someone on the message boards was experimenting w/putting in a corvette 6
spd.

>1)   Is there any way to install another type of transmission into a
>1st. >generation > VR4?   Such as installing a 4th. generation Twin
Turbo Supra
>six >speed trans?  I > believe the Supra transmission is also made by
Getrag.  What >alterations would I > have to perform to the Supra trans.
(rear wheel drive) to >comply with >my AWD set up?

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 07:10:30 1999
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Hi Joshua;

It depends how hard you are on your clutch/what you use it for. I know individuals with
the same setup/similar setup to yours, who opt for the stock clutch as a replacement, as
it is more forgiving and more accomodating on a daily driver basis. On the other hand, a
whole gambit of race oriented clutches are available. I, and a number of use within Team
3S,  just finished with a group purchase for a new carbon fiber clutch, but it is still
too early for any of us to give feedback. Most, if not all of us, have not received it
yet.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 07:34:24 1999
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Ahmed;

In response to your questions;

1). I haven't heard of anyone installing another breed of tranny in our vehicles,
although a 3S  in South America appears to likely have some kind of unusual setup which
has not been thus far described in any literature I have read.( I believe a picture of
it is at Todd's site.)  Just upgrading from 1st to 2nd generation trannies is expensive
and time consuming, so I would expect a hybrid project ( possibly like the South
American) might be a long expensive undertaking.
2-3) No one has posted any phone number, and Jack's interaction with an unnamed source
for the one time synchro order he so generously undertook, is likely not to be ever
disclosed for reasons of confidentiality.
4-6) I believe Brad (Bedell)  has upgraded from a first to second generation
transmission and his posts on it should be in our archives. There are likely others as
well, but as he has a small business which devotes itself in  part to 3S vehicles, you
might want to contact him.


Good luck and post back on your success.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 07:37:54 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
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On the 3si website there was a discussion of someone saying a corvette
gearbox was used.  But the person won't say who it was cause the guy who did
it is apparently talking with the Transmission shop.  He did say it was
around $2500-$3000.  I know if mine ever goes, that's what I am gonna look
into.  Screw Gretag

-----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 10:32 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission
questions.

Ahmed;

In response to your questions;

1). I haven't heard of anyone installing another breed of
tranny in our vehicles,
although a 3S  in South America appears to likely have some
kind of unusual setup which
has not been thus far described in any literature I have
read.( I believe a picture of
it is at Todd's site.)  Just upgrading from 1st to 2nd
generation trannies is expensive
and time consuming, so I would expect a hybrid project (
possibly like the South
American) might be a long expensive undertaking.
2-3) No one has posted any phone number, and Jack's
interaction with an unnamed source
for the one time synchro order he so generously undertook,
is likely not to be ever
disclosed for reasons of confidentiality.
4-6) I believe Brad (Bedell)  has upgraded from a first to
second generation
transmission and his posts on it should be in our archives.
There are likely others as
well, but as he has a small business which devotes itself in
part to 3S vehicles, you
might want to contact him.


Good luck and post back on your success.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 08:38:52 1999
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Joshua wrote:

> On the 3si website there was a discussion of someone saying a corvette
> gearbox was used.  But the person won't say who it was cause the guy who did
> it is apparently talking with the Transmission shop.  He did say it was
> around $2500-$3000.  I know if mine ever goes, that's what I am gonna look
> into.  Screw Gretag

Sounds too good to be true...both the price and the make...and
you know what they say about things that sound too good to be
true!!  However, if you find out more about it  in concrete terms,
please post back for those who are also weary of the Getrag
Blues.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 09:48:59 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best clutch??
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 12:43:13 -0400
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Well which clutch will last the longest?  If I am gonna change it, I want
something that will last and take a lil abuse.  It isn't gonna be taken to
the track but the occasional race on the street is possible :-) Thanks for
any input.

-----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 10:09 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Best clutch??

Hi Joshua;

It depends how hard you are on your clutch/what you use it
for. I know individuals with
the same setup/similar setup to yours, who opt for the stock
clutch as a replacement, as
it is more forgiving and more accomodating on a daily driver
basis. On the other hand, a
whole gambit of race oriented clutches are available. I, and
a number of use within Team
3S,  just finished with a group purchase for a new carbon
fiber clutch, but it is still
too early for any of us to give feedback. Most, if not all
of us, have not received it
yet.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 11:14:36 1999
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David J. mentioned that a couple of weeks ago, but no news since then.  He was hoping the person who was doing this would reveal themselves.  From where David live, in the San Fran eastbay, it probably is one of the guys up there trying something out.
--

On Sun, 16 May 1999 08:36:54   wce wrote:
>
>
>Joshua wrote:
>
>> On the 3si website there was a discussion of someone saying a corvette
>> gearbox was used.  But the person won't say who it was cause the guy who did
>> it is apparently talking with the Transmission shop.  He did say it was
>> around $2500-$3000.  I know if mine ever goes, that's what I am gonna look
>> into.  Screw Gretag
>
>Sounds too good to be true...both the price and the make...and
>you know what they say about things that sound too good to be
>true!!  However, if you find out more about it  in concrete terms,
>please post back for those who are also weary of the Getrag
>Blues.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 11:21:40 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:15:57 -0400
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I believe he said the guy lives in Texas.

-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Swift [mailto:tlswift@hotbot.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 2:14 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission
questions.

David J. mentioned that a couple of weeks ago, but no news
since then.  He was hoping the person who was doing this would reveal
themselves.  From where David live, in the San Fran eastbay, it probably is
one of the guys up there trying something out.
--

On Sun, 16 May 1999 08:36:54   wce wrote:
>
>
>Joshua wrote:
>
>> On the 3si website there was a discussion of someone
saying a corvette
>> gearbox was used.  But the person won't say who it was
cause the guy who did
>> it is apparently talking with the Transmission shop.  He
did say it was
>> around $2500-$3000.  I know if mine ever goes, that's
what I am gonna look
>> into.  Screw Gretag
>
>Sounds too good to be true...both the price and the
make...and
>you know what they say about things that sound too good to
be
>true!!  However, if you find out more about it  in concrete
terms,
>please post back for those who are also weary of the Getrag
>Blues.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 12:11:42 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Someone on the dragnet list found this out
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 15:05:56 -0400
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I don't know enough about it, I thought maybe one of you guys might.  Sound
interesting

Guys,

I found a water injection kit. Plus it is less than $200 bucks. Those of
you who have some expertise on the subject please check it out and advise
the rest of us on its quality and design.

Follow this url:http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/waterinjectionkit.htm

Thanks, Glenn

GCope - Panama Green Pearl 92 VR4
www.forgedesign.com/mycar/


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 12:36:07 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Someone on the dragnet list found this out
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 12:39:00 -0700
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The Spearco kit is not the greatest.  It has a weak pump and the water
resevoir is kind of cheap.  It also has no sight glass.

Here's a kit that is nearly as inexpensive and far superior:

http://www.bowlinggreencustoms.com/gncat/gncat.html

There's also the ERL AquaMist if the pocketbook is feeling particularly
deep.  Just search for ERL and AquaMist and you'll find it.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I don't know enough about it, I thought maybe one of you guys
> might.  Sound
> interesting
>
> Guys,
>
> I found a water injection kit. Plus it is less than $200 bucks. Those of
> you who have some expertise on the subject please check it out and advise
> the rest of us on its quality and design.
>
> Follow this url:http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/waterinjectionkit.htm
>
> Thanks, Glenn

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 12:42:13 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Someone on the dragnet list found this out
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 15:36:30 -0400
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All I saw was an alcohol system... was that what you were talking about?? 

-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E. King [mailto:beking@home.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 3:39 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Someone on the dragnet list
found this out

The Spearco kit is not the greatest.  It has a weak pump and
the water
resevoir is kind of cheap.  It also has no sight glass.

Here's a kit that is nearly as inexpensive and far superior:

http://www.bowlinggreencustoms.com/gncat/gncat.html

There's also the ERL AquaMist if the pocketbook is feeling
particularly
deep.  Just search for ERL and AquaMist and you'll find it.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I don't know enough about it, I thought maybe one of you
guys
> might.  Sound
> interesting
>
> Guys,
>
> I found a water injection kit. Plus it is less than $200
bucks. Those of
> you who have some expertise on the subject please check it
out and advise
> the rest of us on its quality and design.
>
> Follow this
url:http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/waterinjectionkit.htm
>
> Thanks, Glenn

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 12:44:43 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question about auto-tinting rearview
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 15:38:54 -0400
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I was curious how they make the rearview mirrors auto tinting.  I know you
just hit the switch and you can select how deep of a tint and it changes in
a couple secs.  How do they do this?  Is there anyway to do this to the
windows?  Here in Pa some of the cops like busting people for tinted
windows, but if I could make that go away, really quick, I think it would be
cool.  Any ideas?  Thanks for any and all info.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 13:27:22 1999
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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 22:20:58 +0200
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Best clutch??
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Joshua,
    With that setup, you are looking at either a stock ($300?) or a Centerforce Dual
Friction ($500 from NOPI).  The stock clutch is cheaper, and does not really have a
break in period.  I personally believe it can take the abuse of a 5000 RPM dump a lot
better than others.  The Centerforce clutch is a little more expensive, but the clutch
feel is lighter.  Also, it is more of an on/off engagement than the stock clutch.
However, because of this, it does not handle high RPM DUMPS very well.  People who use
this clutch successfully have learned to let the clutch out easily till it slightly
engages then as the car JUST starts moving you fully release the clutch.  I believe this
technic and the Centerforce clutch will give you faster times.  However, the biggest
problem with the Centerforce is that it requires a 500 mile city driving break-in
period.  This is a must.  If it is not done and you do a launch before the clutch
material has been able to cure properly, you will ruin the clutch.

Hope this helps,

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT


Joshua wrote:

> Well which clutch will last the longest?  If I am gonna change it, I want
> something that will last and take a lil abuse.  It isn't gonna be taken to
> the track but the occasional race on the street is possible :-) Thanks for
> any input.
>
>                 -----Original Message-----
>                 From:   wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
>                 Sent:   Sunday, May 16, 1999 10:09 AM
>                 To:     stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>                 Subject:        Re: Team3S: Best clutch??
>
>                 Hi Joshua;
>
>                 It depends how hard you are on your clutch/what you use it
> for. I know individuals with
>                 the same setup/similar setup to yours, who opt for the stock
> clutch as a replacement, as
>                 it is more forgiving and more accomodating on a daily driver
> basis. On the other hand, a
>                 whole gambit of race oriented clutches are available. I, and
> a number of use within Team
>                 3S,  just finished with a group purchase for a new carbon
> fiber clutch, but it is still
>                 too early for any of us to give feedback. Most, if not all
> of us, have not received it
>                 yet.
>
>                 Best
>
>                 Darc
>
>                 For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 13:34:50 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best clutch??
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 16:29:01 -0400
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Thanks a lot.  I am considering the Centerforce clutch, but I also heard
about the ACT clutch.  I was curious if anyone knew how they compared.  Also
is Nexus one of the best places to buy them?? Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Chapleski [mailto:mike.chapleski@ibm.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 4:21 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Best clutch??

Joshua,
    With that setup, you are looking at either a stock
($300?) or a Centerforce Dual
Friction ($500 from NOPI).  The stock clutch is cheaper, and
does not really have a
break in period.  I personally believe it can take the abuse
of a 5000 RPM dump a lot
better than others.  The Centerforce clutch is a little more
expensive, but the clutch
feel is lighter.  Also, it is more of an on/off engagement
than the stock clutch.
However, because of this, it does not handle high RPM DUMPS
very well.  People who use
this clutch successfully have learned to let the clutch out
easily till it slightly
engages then as the car JUST starts moving you fully release
the clutch.  I believe this
technic and the Centerforce clutch will give you faster
times.  However, the biggest
problem with the Centerforce is that it requires a 500 mile
city driving break-in
period.  This is a must.  If it is not done and you do a
launch before the clutch
material has been able to cure properly, you will ruin the
clutch.

Hope this helps,

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT


Joshua wrote:

> Well which clutch will last the longest?  If I am gonna
change it, I want
> something that will last and take a lil abuse.  It isn't
gonna be taken to
> the track but the occasional race on the street is
possible :-) Thanks for
> any input.
>
>                 -----Original Message-----
>                 From:   wce@bc.sympatico.ca
[mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
>                 Sent:   Sunday, May 16, 1999 10:09 AM
>                 To:     stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>                 Subject:        Re: Team3S: Best clutch??
>
>                 Hi Joshua;
>
>                 It depends how hard you are on your
clutch/what you use it
> for. I know individuals with
>                 the same setup/similar setup to yours, who
opt for the stock
> clutch as a replacement, as
>                 it is more forgiving and more accomodating
on a daily driver
> basis. On the other hand, a
>                 whole gambit of race oriented clutches are
available. I, and
> a number of use within Team
>                 3S,  just finished with a group purchase
for a new carbon
> fiber clutch, but it is still
>                 too early for any of us to give feedback.
Most, if not all
> of us, have not received it
>                 yet.
>
>                 Best
>
>                 Darc
>
>                 For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 13:43:23 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best clutch??
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 13:46:17 -0700
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I have been dealing with Chien for quite some time now.  In my experience he
is both honest and fair and his prices are reasonable if not great.  Vendors
like Nexus should be rewared with business.

No, I don't get kickbacks.  ;)


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Thanks a lot.  I am considering the Centerforce clutch, but I also heard
> about the ACT clutch.  I was curious if anyone knew how they
> compared.  Also
> is Nexus one of the best places to buy them?? Thanks

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 14:29:41 1999
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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 23:15:46 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Organization: Behind the frontier
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about auto-tinting rearview
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Well, a side topic but here a small explanation :

> I was curious how they make the rearview mirrors auto tinting.  I know you
> just hit the switch and you can select how deep of a tint and it changes in
> a couple secs.

They use a liquid cristal screen that visibility is controlled by the voltage
given. Just look at any LCD screen and change the contrast on it. This is the
same technique used on the rearview mirrors.

> windows?  Here in Pa some of the cops like busting people for tinted
> windows, but if I could make that go away, really quick, I think it would be
> cool.  Any ideas?

No way to do this with LCD technique. But there is also a paint in development
that can change its color by applying some voltage. This should then also work
on windows and some prototyps have been tested in offices to work like
sunshades. Well, the price is very high and I think not worth thinking about it
as it is still not in production.

Hope this helps,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 14:29:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
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During my investiogations about WI systems, I also found those systems and
searched for related articles.

The Spearco WI kit is a cheap starter kit (somewhat old) for engines with a max
displacement of 2 liters. But even on a Celica GT four the amount of water
delivered last only for a max boost of around 15-18psi.

The system for the Grand National V6 is bigger and is able to deliver more
water/alcohol but also here boost seems to be limited due to the pumps power
that is supported by the boost produced by the turbos. Also the water sprayed in
is not that fine as with the ERL system due to the smaller pump and the pressure
that varies.

Unfortunately, the ERL (Aqualist) System 1 is the most expensive one as the
older "normal" pump has been discontinued and only the race pump is available
now. But this system is the most sophisticated one on the market and some Rally
teams trusted them with succsess. While the other systems are using the produced
pressure from the turbos for spraying the stuff into the upstream the ERL is
independant to this and produces the same pattern on every boost level. This
helps to upgrade the system with a System 2 that finally allows to tune up a 3D
water/boost/rpm map... the best you can have.

Generally, a mixture of water/alcohol to be sprayed infront the TB gives the
best results and is able to produce detonation stability like running with fuel
of up to 140 octane (or even more). This will allow you to increase boost to a
high level without the danger of melting something in the chamber.
Of course, our injectors are getting maxed out around 15psi and the fuel system
needs to be upgraded before the WI system can be added.
The water reservoir for the windshield washer can be used for the water/alcohol
without a problem and it's not really necessary to get another one. Our EU cars
do have an additional water reservoir in the bumper that is used for the lamp
sprays. I'll use this reservoir for the water as it is big enough and do have a
sensor for a low level too (that lights up the orange lamp). The ERL pump is
bigger than the others due to its power needed to produce an very good fog when
pressed through the nozzle. So the biggest problem is where to place the pump in
the engine compartment (I just found a way) and where to install the nozzle
(still not solved on our cars)

On my car the ERL System 1 (or system 2 directly) will be installed as soon as
the fuel upgrades found their way into their locations. Unfortunately, this
takes more time as expected and I have to show the car to the gov. pretty soon
too (without any mods....don't ask).

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 14:51:47 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Someone on the dragnet list found this out
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In a message dated 5/16/99 2:38:19 PM Central Daylight Time, beking@home.com
writes:

<< http://www.bowlinggreencustoms.com/gncat/gncat.html >>

Can the DOHC NA Stealths benefit from these water injection systems?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 18:02:52 1999
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From: "Rice-Burner Crusher" <stealth_es@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: battery warning light
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:02:47 EDT
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Tonight, on the way home from work, I noticied something flickering on my
dashboard as I went through the turns.  I kept my eye on it, and I finally
decided it was a picture of a battery.

The battery warning light goes on when I go through turns.  It doesn't stay
on, it only flickers and stays on for a second at the most.  It happened to
me during every turn I went through, and this is the first time I've seen it
come on.  I looked at the voltage indicator on the dash on the far right,
and it looked normal. It said it was at 14V.  Could a cable be loose?  I
have tried to jumpstart someone within the past couple of months.  Would
that have done this?

Please help me..  Do I need to get a new battery??  Should I take it into
Trak Auto or PepBoys and have them check it out??

Thanks for any and all help...


_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 18:35:09 1999
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If it's over on the right side, near the bottom, and is yellow, then
it's your coolant ondicator light. fill up the overflow tank to correct
the problem. It could also be the windshield washer reservoir. Fill both
up, and it should correct the problem.

Matt
#311
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 18:36:01 1999
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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: battery warning light
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:38:28 +1200
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> The battery warning light goes on when I go through turns. 
> It doesn't stay on, it only flickers and stays on for a
> second at the most. 

Was it orange or red?  In the center of the console or to
the right...  I ask because the symptoms sound like your
washer fluid level.  Have a look at item "G" at this site
http://beam.to/GTO_Manual to determine if it is indeed the
washer fluid.

> I looked at the voltage indicator on the dash on the far
> right, and it looked normal. It said it was at 14V.

Hmm...  I do not have one of these in my GTO, I assume that
this is a Stealth?  If it is not the washer fluid then you
will need to check all terminals, etc...

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 18:48:21 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <3000gt_stealth@onelist.com>,
        <stealth@dragnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K Service...
Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:46:56 -0500
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    All this talk about 60k service and complaints about the quality and =
price of work performed at dealerships has got me thinking..........what =
if i offered a 60k service at a good price, would anybody be willing to =
travel to Memphis to have it done? Timing belt
    Tensioner
    Water Pump
    Drive belts
    Spark plugs
    Wayne, I'm in Huntsville Alabama, (about 4 hours from Memphis), and =
would be a candidate for getting my 60K service done by you.  I wouldn't =
want the oil filter, air filter, or crank case, transaxel, transfer case =
and rear differential oils included, but, the cam drive belt, tensioner, =
water pump, spark plugs, etc. would be desired.  I won't need this work =
for another year or two, so let me know if you expect to still offer =
this service then. Regards, ptg

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<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">All=20
    this talk about 60k service and complaints about the quality and =
price of=20
    work performed at dealerships has got me thinking..........what if i =
offered=20
    a 60k service at a good price, would anybody be willing to travel to =
Memphis=20
    to have it done? Timing belt<BR>Tensioner<BR>Water Pump<BR>Drive=20
    belts<BR>Spark plugs</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">Wayne,=20
    I'm in Huntsville Alabama, (about 4 hours from Memphis), and would =
be a=20
    candidate for getting my 60K service done by you.&nbsp; I wouldn't =
want the=20
    oil filter, air filter, or crank case, transaxel, transfer case and =
rear=20
    differential oils included, but, the cam drive belt, tensioner, =
water pump,=20
    spark plugs, etc. would be desired.&nbsp; I won't need this work for =
another=20
    year or two, so let me know if you expect to still offer this =
service then.=20
    Regards, ptg</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 19:25:58 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 60K Service...
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        Wayne, I'm in Huntsville Alabama, (about 4 hours from Memphis), =
and would be a candidate for getting my 60K service done by you.  I =
wouldn't want the oil filter, air filter, or crank case, transaxel, =
transfer case and rear differential oils included, but, the cam drive =
belt, tensioner, water pump, spark plugs, etc. would be desired.  I =
won't need this work for another year or two, so let me know if you =
expect to still offer this service then. Regards, ptg

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    style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Wayne,=20
        I'm in Huntsville Alabama, (about 4 hours from Memphis), and =
would be a=20
        candidate for getting my 60K service done by you.&nbsp; I =
wouldn't want=20
        the oil filter, air filter, or crank case, transaxel, transfer =
case and=20
        rear differential oils included, but, the cam drive belt, =
tensioner,=20
        water pump, spark plugs, etc. would be desired.&nbsp; I won't =
need this=20
        work for another year or two, so let me know if you expect to =
still=20
        offer this service then. Regards, =
ptg</BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 20:22:49 1999
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Are you sure it's the battery light?? What you're describing happens
often if the coolant is a little low. As you go around the corner, the
marginally low coolant sloshes to one side and gives a very brief
coolant light. The light is the strangest looking coolant symbol I've
ever seen.

Rice-Burner Crusher wrote:
>
> Tonight, on the way home from work, I noticied something flickering on my
> dashboard as I went through the turns.  I kept my eye on it, and I finally
> decided it was a picture of a battery.
>
> The battery warning light goes on when I go through turns.  It doesn't stay
> on, it only flickers and stays on for a second at the most.  It happened to
> me during every turn I went through, and this is the first time I've seen it
> come on.  I looked at the voltage indicator on the dash on the far right,
> and it looked normal. It said it was at 14V.  Could a cable be loose?  I
> have tried to jumpstart someone within the past couple of months.  Would
> that have done this?
>
> Please help me..  Do I need to get a new battery??  Should I take it into
> Trak Auto or PepBoys and have them check it out??
>
> Thanks for any and all help...
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun May 16 20:24:52 1999
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DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
adjustable/lowering spring
suspension kits, such as Barry King and several other List Members have
already and have been raving about!  WE 3S  people CAN join the buy!
Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
you are interested, contact ASAP:

Joe Kou    af3976@wayne.edu

Jack Tertadian

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 00:15:54 1999
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Chances are it's the Parthanon (sp?) looking icon (looks like a Greek
building) it's the coolant light.  Mine's been going on and off for the last
month or so even though the coolant is a nice green and filled to the fill
line.  There's no way this light goes off somehow knowing that the fluid is
2 years old is there?  I've heard that there is a sender unit that often
fails causing this problem...


> If it's over on the right side, near the bottom, and is yellow, then
> it's your coolant ondicator light. fill up the overflow tank to correct
> the problem.



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 03:40:49 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:42:47 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> Can the DOHC NA Stealths benefit from these water injection systems?

No, only if you find a way to increase pressure in the chamber. WI systems are
useful to cool down air  and the mixture in the chamber making a supercharged
system much more effective as well as prvrnting detonation due to low octane
fuel.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 03:49:11 1999
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Thanks for the info Jack !

Can somebody please give me some more information, pictures or links to the
Ground Control stuff ? I'd like to put this information onto the GP page as well
as I'm interested too (the SUV look in the rear must go)

Regards,
Roger


> DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
> adjustable/lowering spring
> suspension kits, such as Barry King and several other List Members have
> already and have been raving about!  WE 3S  people CAN join the buy!
> Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
> join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
> you are interested, contact ASAP:
>
> Joe Kou    af3976@wayne.edu
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 04:22:39 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
References: <3740348C.7E43886E@execpc.com> <373FF4A3.F4D24A33@swissonline.ch>
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Roger, not sure what else I can add, but the link is:
http://www.ground-control.com/

Jason

Roger Gerl wrote:

> Thanks for the info Jack !
>
> Can somebody please give me some more information, pictures or links to the
> Ground Control stuff ? I'd like to put this information onto the GP page as well
> as I'm interested too (the SUV look in the rear must go)
>
> Regards,
> Roger
>
> > DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
> > adjustable/lowering spring
> > suspension kits, such as Barry King and several other List Members have
> > already and have been raving about!  WE 3S  people CAN join the buy!
> > Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
> > join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
> > you are interested, contact ASAP:
> >
> > Joe Kou    af3976@wayne.edu
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 05:16:11 1999
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From: "Rice-Burner Crusher" <stealth_es@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: battery warning light
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:16:07 EDT
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That would be the light..  Why does it look like a battery when it's for the
washer fluid...



>From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: battery warning light
>Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:38:28 +1200
>
> > The battery warning light goes on when I go through turns.
> > It doesn't stay on, it only flickers and stays on for a
> > second at the most.
>
>Was it orange or red?  In the center of the console or to
>the right...  I ask because the symptoms sound like your
>washer fluid level.  Have a look at item "G" at this site
>http://beam.to/GTO_Manual to determine if it is indeed the
>washer fluid.
>
> > I looked at the voltage indicator on the dash on the far
> > right, and it looked normal. It said it was at 14V.
>
>Hmm...  I do not have one of these in my GTO, I assume that
>this is a Stealth?  If it is not the washer fluid then you
>will need to check all terminals, etc...
>
>Cheers,
>Kevin Clark
>'91 GTO-VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 05:19:39 1999
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From: "Rice-Burner Crusher" <stealth_es@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: battery warning light
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It's not the parthenon looking light..  I've seen that one before and this
one is not it.  I looked at a picture of the warning lights, and it is for
the washer fluid..  I thought it looked like a battery symbol..  Oh well..

Thanks you guys!



>From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Re: Team3S: battery warning light
>Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 00:14:13 -0700
>
>Chances are it's the Parthanon (sp?) looking icon (looks like a Greek
>building) it's the coolant light.  Mine's been going on and off for the
>last
>month or so even though the coolant is a nice green and filled to the fill
>line.  There's no way this light goes off somehow knowing that the fluid is
>2 years old is there?  I've heard that there is a sender unit that often
>fails causing this problem...
>
>
> > If it's over on the right side, near the bottom, and is yellow, then
> > it's your coolant ondicator light. fill up the overflow tank to correct
> > the problem.
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 06:42:54 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:42:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
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In a message dated 5/16/99 1:22:27 AM Central Daylight Time, nxiong@juno.com
writes:

<< someone on the message boards was experimenting w/putting in a corvette 6
spd. >>

Thank you gentlemen (Nick, Darc, Joshua & Terry), for all your input.

I believe the 6 speed Corvette transmission is also manufactured by Getrag;
This German based company is found in our cars,  Supras, Corvettes and
Camaros.  They seem to dominate the high Performance car market.

I'll keep you all & the list posted with my progress.

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 06:50:57 1999
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From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:52:41 -0400
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I may be mistaken, but I believe the Corvette boxes are from ZF not Getrag.
They do however suffer the same fate, if there's an internal problem, the
dealers are instructed to replace the trans assembly.

Roger

-----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com [mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 9:42 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.

>>I believe the 6 speed Corvette transmission is also manufactured by
Getrag;
This German based company is found in our cars,  Supras, Corvettes and
Camaros.  They seem to dominate the high Performance car market.<<
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 06:51:26 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:49:24 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, xwing@execpc.com
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Hi Jack,
I am interested in this group purchase.  The only problem is that I
have just (within the last 2 months) purchased the Eibach Pro-Kit Springs for
$269.  If I can sell them ASAP; I will be a candidate for your group
purchase.  Please keep me informed of any ideas.  OR, could I ship my Springs
to Ground Control (since they use Eibach springs anyway) and have them
upgraded to their product?  Maybe a $35 charge?  (to compensate for the price
I purchased my Eibachs and the group purchase price of $300)??  Anyway, just
an idea; please keep me posted.

By the way, have you read my recent post on: Subject: Dealer experience and
transmission questions?  I'd appreciate some input from you.   Thanks!
Take care,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 06:57:55 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
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In a message dated 5/17/99 8:52:03 AM Central Daylight Time,
rcrawford@dbp-inc.com writes:

<< I may be mistaken, but I believe the Corvette boxes are from ZF not Getrag.
They do however suffer the same fate, if there's an internal problem, the
dealers are instructed to replace the trans assembly.

Roger >>

I believe that might be the case, Roger.    I wasn't too sure if the
Corvettes had a Getrag or not;  Either way,  same fate! 

Thanks,
Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 06:58:26 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
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In a message dated 5/17/99 8:52:03 AM Central Daylight Time,
rcrawford@dbp-inc.com writes:

<< I may be mistaken, but I believe the Corvette boxes are from ZF not Getrag.
They do however suffer the same fate, if there's an internal problem, the
dealers are instructed to replace the trans assembly.

Roger >>

I believe that might be the case, Roger.    I wasn't too sure if the
Corvettes had a Getrag or not;  Either way,  same fate! 

Thanks,
Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 06:58:39 1999
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Message-ID: <7005DBB704CDD211B3CE00104BC90537204844@ca-tor-exch-1.cdn.unisys.com>
From: "Pandya, Raagi" <raagi.pandya@ca.unisys.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Getting Mitsu parts in Canada.
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:54:16 -0500
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Greetings,

I am considering importing a 3KGT VR4 (91-93) into Canada, and was concerned
about the availability parts for this vehicle, both standard maintenance
parts and general repair parts.  From what I understand, basically
everything 'under' the skin of the car is the same as the Dodge Stealth
RT/TT?

Is this a safe assumption?  For general maintenance, can I go to the local
parts depot/dealer and safely use the Stealth parts?

Best Regards
Raagi Pandya
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 07:12:10 1999
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From: "Pandya, Raagi" <raagi.pandya@ca.unisys.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:07:48 -0500
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Greetings Roger,

My name is Raagi Pandya, I live in Montreal, I was wondering if I could ask
for your opinion on something...

I am looking at importing (from the US) a 92 Mitsu 3000GT VR4.  It's dark
green, all loaded, and in pretty good shape ascetically.  It is relatively
high mileage (200K KM), but has most of the maintenance records.  The car
seems quite nice, but does have a flaw; it has what sounds like a
bearing/rod knock in the motor.  It is, however, very inexpensive ($5000US).
I have yet to take it to a shop for a compression test/general overview, but
I was wondering if this seems like a good deal to you.   I plan to build up
the motor (ported head/intake/exhaust), perhaps forged pistons and
(obviously!) new rods.
The stock turbo will have to go (if money permits, right away!).  The car is
driveable, and the gearbox seems quite intact.

Do you think this is a worthwhile idea?  I am no stranger to imported cars
(I'm currently an owner of a modded first generation 300ZX Turbo and MR2
Supercharged, and have worked on cars from 300ZXTT's to blown Mustangs), but
have very limited knowledge of the 3KGT/RTTT line.

I guess basically what I am asking is:  would you buy this car if you were
in my place?

Thanks for any and all comments

Raagi Pandya
Montreal, Canada
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 07:13:15 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: ** Getrag Info **
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Hi all,

Some one had an idea of building stronger parts for our transmissions.
Well I have the following if anyone needs them.  All these parts came
out of a 5 speed w/ 25 splines:

1-2 Synchro
3-4 Synchro  (still in very good condition)
Output Shaft w/ 25 splines.

Just tell me who to send them to!

Jose
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 07:16:01 1999
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From: "Pandya, Raagi" <raagi.pandya@ca.unisys.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: OOPS
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:11:14 -0500
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Sorry, that last message was intended as a private message.

A thousand apologies.....

Raagi Pandya
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 08:00:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:52:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dealer experience & transmission questions.
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Don't forget the Nissan Skyline TT.....

On Mon, 17 May 1999 09:42:05 EDT TurboDrvn@aol.com writes:
>In a message dated 5/16/99 1:22:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
>nxiong@juno.com
>writes:
>
><< someone on the message boards was experimenting w/putting in a
>corvette 6
> spd. >>
>
>Thank you gentlemen (Nick, Darc, Joshua & Terry), for all your input.
>
>I believe the 6 speed Corvette transmission is also manufactured by
>Getrag;
>This German based company is found in our cars,  Supras, Corvettes and
>
>Camaros.  They seem to dominate the high Performance car market.
>
>I'll keep you all & the list posted with my progress.
>
>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 08:14:47 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Getting Mitsu parts in Canada.
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Pandya;

Most of what you have on this first generation car (if you import it), is identical to
it's twin the Stealth TT. A few cosmetic features and the active aero system are
different, but the rest is pure and simple, identical. So you can pick up parts  up at
your local Dodge Dealer, or go south of the border and pick up your parts or do it there
even cheaper. Mitsu and Dodge departed  this body twin style in the second generation,
but the mechanical components were bye and large left the same.

Rebuilds on the engine of this generation  have been performed regularly by race
enthusiasts as the result of overboost situations before dyno testing indicated that 1
bar was the safe limit. The results of these tear downs has shown that the engine itself
remains in almost new condition and the rings (or in some cases the pistons) have not
sustained the detonation caused by high boost situations. Noise in the valve lash
adjusters has seen replacement of these, but other than that, you have one of the
best/stongest  engines engineered today to play with. You should note that the 91-92
modles had 2 bolt mains ,and the 93 and up into the second generation had 4 bolt mains.
91-to mid 92 also had  15 spline input shafts in the transmission so consider getting an
after market hardened input shaft and transfer case sleeve when doing your rebuild, if
it's one of these. Now,  if you can just get the the seller to take your Canadian
dollars at par  :-)

Best

Darc



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 08:32:13 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:31:03 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Racing seats
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For anybody interested in a racing seat...
I've just chosen the following for myself.
Corbeau Forza CSForza
I have a list price of $220 with shipping included for each seat
plus $78.50 for each bracket. I was also able to get a 5% list discount
set up for anyone interested. Mention 3SI list. They can be seen at:
http://www.sportscar-parts.com/seats.html
These seats are rated, approved and cut a bit larger for an American butt.
They also make a more padded model called Forza 2 but its heavier
BTW, I have not used or sat in them yet so make your own decisions.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 08:40:25 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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References: <3740348C.7E43886E@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
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Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!


> DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
!
> Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
> join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
> you are interested, contact ASAP

Great timing --- I just ordered a set Thursday, talked to Arron, mentioned
Team3S and Barry Kings recommendation but no GP was mentioned.
Who do I need to talk to, maybe I can still get in. Or at least have it counted
towards the GP sence I did buy as a result of the group input.

       Jim Berry         Fastmax@home.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 08:50:03 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:49:47 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
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Who is it I need to contact on the GP?
Thanks for the info.
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 5/17/99 8:43:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time, fastmax@home.com
writes:

<< Subj: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
Date: 5/17/99 8:43:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From: fastmax@home.com (Jim Berry)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com

Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!


> DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
!
> Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
> join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
> you are interested, contact ASAP
  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 08:59:16 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
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Arty,
I believe the person handling the group purchase is Jack Tertadian.

Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 09:25:57 1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Week-End Work
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:13:14 -0700
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Hi Gang...

Worked a little bit on my 92 RT/TT this week-end.
All of this is probably no news for most of you, but I'll write it anyways
:-)

Still haven't got the intake plenum, so, I decided to change ONLY the 3
front plug wires. Drive the car this morning, I CANNOT BELEIVE the
difference these 3 wires are making...hesitation is "almost" gone, and the
car is a lot more enjoyable to drive.

At the same time, I as well fixed a couple irritating problems..
Cargo cover wouldn't stay in the mount
The windown's driver's side plastic plate was cracked
The steering wheel radio controls were NOT working very well

All fixed.

I as well decided to modify the way the fog lights are working on the car.
found the instructions saying

"There are 4 red wires attached to it, 1 with silver dashes, 1 with a yellow
stripe and silver dots, and 2 with a blue stripe."

Oups, talk about badly written..there are TWO IDENTICAL RED WITH A BLUE
STRIPE WIRE...

"The one that is on the bottom of the relay with the blue stripe is the one
you need to
cut."

Ahem....when a relay is lying FLAT, and the relay connectors have a T
shape....where is the one at the bottom....

Took my multimeter, played around, thought I found the right
one....WRONGO.....
Had to re-solder it (and, using a gas soldering pen, I managed to badly burn
my thumb. These things are hot enough to melt lead, they're hot enough to
"cook" human flesh as well, 1300°C is DAMM HOT)

So, here are my "corrected and improved" version.

The relay connectors are arranged somewhat like a T, and you'll find TWO RED
wires with a blue stripe. One of the red wire will be positioned at the base
(or bottom) of the T. Follow it, it should go into the main wiring harness.
You do NOT want to cut this one.
The OTHER red wire is positioned at a side of the top of the T. If you
follow this wire, it should splice into another wire nearby. You want to cut
THIS wire, between the splice, and the relay connector.

You MUST insulate the wire not going to the relay, as this wire will become
"hot" when your headlamps are on (heat shrink tubes are working perfectly)

I'd suggest to connect the OTHER side (the one going to the relay) to the
PROTECTED side of the "Tail Lights" relay. In my car, that wire is a green
one, with black dots.
That way, you'll be able to get the fod lights on as soon as the "parking"
lights are on, but you'll still have the "walkaway battery saver" working as
designed (yup, I tested all modes).

Hope this will prevent a couple blisters...

Henri

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 10:03:21 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:08:00 -0700
Subject: Team3S: Got another ticket
Message-ID: <19990517.130801.-253851.0.nxiong@juno.com>
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just got another last night, does anyone know if I will be billed for
repeat offender since my last ticket was in August 1998?
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 10:07:15 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Valve noise(?) at startup
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Hi, this is my 1st post.

I have a '92 VR4, sometimes I get a horrible grinding noise on cold starts.
The dealer can't find the problem. Any ideas?


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 10:11:43 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:10:28 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Got another ticket
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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In a message dated 5/17/99 12:05:43 PM Central Daylight Time, nxiong@juno.com
writes:

<< just got another last night, does anyone know if I will be billed for
repeat offender since my last ticket was in August 1998? >>

Hey Nick,
Sorry to hear about your ticket.   If you had a ticket last August of
1998; your chances are good that you won't be billed for a repeat offender;
there's usually a 6 month probationary period;  and you're definitely past 6
months; but it depends on the severity of your last ticket and also did you
go to traffic school?

Good luck!

Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 10:35:59 1999
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From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: <Aso8@aol.com>, <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:44:11 -0500
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Joe Kou at af3976@wayne.edu is handling the group purchase.  Jack Tertadian
is not...he just relayed us the message.  If you're interested, you need to
send him your name, address, phone number, year and make/model, and he will
get you on the list.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

-----Original Message-----
From: Aso8@aol.com <Aso8@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: Aso8@aol.com <Aso8@aol.com>
Date: Monday, May 17, 1999 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!


>Who is it I need to contact on the GP?
>Thanks for the info.
>Arty 91 VR-4
>
>In a message dated 5/17/99 8:43:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
fastmax@home.com
>writes:
>
><< Subj: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
> Date: 5/17/99 8:43:02 AM Pacific Daylight Time
> From: fastmax@home.com (Jim Berry)
> Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
>
>
> > DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
> !
> > Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
> > join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
> > you are interested, contact ASAP
>  >>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 10:39:53 1999
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From: "Michael Chan" <michael.chan@hcl.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Getting Mitsu parts in Canada.
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:41:22 -0400
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I wouldn't go to a dealer at all.  Email me privately if you are in Toronto
and I will tell you of my horror stories...

Mike
91TT

-----Original Message-----
From: Pandya, Raagi <raagi.pandya@ca.unisys.com>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com' <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, May 17, 1999 9:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Getting Mitsu parts in Canada.


>Greetings,
>
>I am considering importing a 3KGT VR4 (91-93) into Canada, and was
concerned
>about the availability parts for this vehicle, both standard maintenance
>parts and general repair parts.  From what I understand, basically
>everything 'under' the skin of the car is the same as the Dodge Stealth
>RT/TT?
>
>Is this a safe assumption?  For general maintenance, can I go to the local
>parts depot/dealer and safely use the Stealth parts?
>
>Best Regards
>Raagi Pandya
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 10:42:16 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:41:15 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Got another ticket (ADMIN MESSAGE)
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Please immediately stop this OFF-LINE TOPIC as this is null/zero/nada technical
stuff.

Thanks for your corporation

Roger for the Admins
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 10:50:18 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise(?) at startup
References: <v03110700b365fc8512a7@[172.16.160.113]>
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> Hi, this is my 1st post.

Morgan, you are very welcome :)

> I have a '92 VR4, sometimes I get a horrible grinding noise on cold starts.

Try to locate if the noise is comming from the firewall on the passengers side.
What you hear is maybe only the boost or the fuel pressure valve and the fix
would then be easy.

Also if it is coser to the engine, then an engine flush and new gooood oil would
maybe help.

Last but not least check out of the noise is comming from the tranny or clutch
region.

Please locate the sound as good as possible and note the temp gauge when the
sound is going away.

Let us know,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 11:03:30 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 14:01:36 -0400
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Getting Mitsu parts in Canada.
References: <7005DBB704CDD211B3CE00104BC90537204844@ca-tor-exch-1.cdn.unisys.com> <374031B2.4E8065E7@bc.sympatico.ca>
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Darc,

One quick question on comparison of Stealth RT/TT and Mitsu VR-4: Does
the Stealth RT/TT also have 4 wheel steering like its Mitsu
counterparts?

Regards,
Lynn

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Pandya;
>
> Most of what you have on this first generation car (if you import it), is identical to
> it's twin the Stealth TT. A few cosmetic features and the active aero system are
> different, but the rest is pure and simple, identical.
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 11:17:17 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Ground control email needed !
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Sorry guys for this little help-call :)

But I do need an email address from Ground Control to ask em about my other car
that already have Eibach springs.

Thanks in advance and please email me privately
Roger

PS: Yes, I'm getting them for the Animale too :))

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 11:37:10 1999
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From: "Derek Hayes" <hayes@info.starpoint.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPM question
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:40:25 -0500
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I was wondering if anyone knew what RPM a Base Stealth should be reading at
a speed of 65 MPH?

My car is a 1993 Base Stealth and at 65MPH the RPM is at 2700.  Is that
about right?

Derek Hayes
'93 Base Stealth
http://www.starpoint.net/~hayes

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 11:46:00 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 14:45:30 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Struts
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If I use the adjustable Ground Control Springs
what is the better strut to match up with it -
KYB, Gab, or stock ECS for 1/4 mile race use?
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 11:50:29 1999
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPM question
In-Reply-To: <000001bea094$ba890b20$070592ce@starpoint.net>
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Yes, that's about right.  I'm just under 3K at 80mph.  You and I should
have the same tranny.  (I drive a 93 Stealth ES.)

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

On Mon, 17 May 1999, Derek Hayes wrote:

> I was wondering if anyone knew what RPM a Base Stealth should be reading at
> a speed of 65 MPH?
>
> My car is a 1993 Base Stealth and at 65MPH the RPM is at 2700.  Is that
> about right?
>
> Derek Hayes
> '93 Base Stealth
> http://www.starpoint.net/~hayes
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 15:46:57 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Phil Johnson <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Valve noise(?) at startup
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<html><div>I had a nasty grinding noise a while ago, most prevalent in
winter.&nbsp; It was loud, stayed the same high pitch, and it was like it
started fast and the slowed down... like a REALLY REALLY rusted fan as it
slowed down to a stop or something. I noticed the noise disappeared as
soon as the car started, or I let up on the key.</div>
<br>
<div>Anyway, this situation turned out to be my starter.&nbsp; It was a
simple solution of putting some grease on the bendix gear on the starter
and it went away, although it came back later.&nbsp; This could be a
possibilty too, as I've heard lots of 3S people complaining about the
same thing, though it very well could the other things listed
below.</div>
<br>
<div>If you monkey with the starter, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY.&nbsp; A guy
told me how a friend of his lost a finger on the same job but didn't
disconnect the battery. </div>
<br>
<div>If you need more info, email me and I'll dig up the email I used to
grease my starter up.</div>
<br>
<div>*Phillip</div>
<br>
<br>
<div>At 12:49 PM 5/17/99 , you wrote:</div>
<div>&gt;&gt; Hi, this is my 1st post.</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;Morgan, you are very welcome :)</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;&gt; I have a '92 VR4, sometimes I get a horrible grinding noise
on cold starts.</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;Try to locate if the noise is comming from the firewall on the
passengers side.</div>
<div>&gt;What you hear is maybe only the boost or the fuel pressure valve
and the fix</div>
<div>&gt;would then be easy.</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;Also if it is coser to the engine, then an engine flush and new
gooood oil </div>
<div>&gt;would</div>
<div>&gt;maybe help.</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;Last but not least check out of the noise is comming from the
tranny or clutch</div>
<div>&gt;region.</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;Please locate the sound as good as possible and note the temp
gauge when the</div>
<div>&gt;sound is going away.</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;Let us know,</div>
<div>&gt;Roger</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;-----------------------</div>
<div>&gt;Roger Gerl, Switzerland</div>
<div>&gt;93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)</div>
<div>&gt;K&amp;N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,</div>
<div>&gt;ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided
brake lines</div>
<div>&gt;Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads</div>
<div>&gt;</div>
<div>&gt;Check out:
<a href="http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html" EUDORA=AUTOURL>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html</a></div>
<div>&gt;For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is </div>
<div>&gt;<a href="http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm" EUDORA=AUTOURL>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm</a></div>
<br>

<hr>
<font face="Tahoma"><b>Phillip Johnson<br>
</b>Ceridian Central Custom Programmer<br>
<a href="mailto:dangerwit@mediaone.net">dangerwit@mediaone.net<br>
</a></font></html>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 12:59:47 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground control What exactly is it?
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 15:53:53 -0400
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Can someone describe what exactly this kit includes and whether they can do
it to you eibach springs if you already have them?  Thanks

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 2:16 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Ground control email needed !

Sorry guys for this little help-call :)

But I do need an email address from Ground Control to ask em
about my other car
that already have Eibach springs.

Thanks in advance and please email me privately
Roger

PS: Yes, I'm getting them for the Animale too :))

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:09:22 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Getting Mitsu parts in Canada.
References: <7005DBB704CDD211B3CE00104BC90537204844@ca-tor-exch-1.cdn.unisys.com> <374031B2.4E8065E7@bc.sympatico.ca> <37405980.A845CDD4@ibm.net>
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Hi Lynn;

Yep it  (TT's are all RT) has all wheel steering...but this feature I believe kicks in at
speeds over 30 or somesuch. Essentially they are the same with different decals/trim (Mitsu
vs Stealth) and the Mitsu has a different active aero wing and front active spoiler.

Best

Darc

William Lynn Larsen wrote:

> Darc,
>
> One quick question on comparison of Stealth RT/TT and Mitsu VR-4: Does
> the Stealth RT/TT also have 4 wheel steering like its Mitsu
> counterparts?
>



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:23:29 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost Controllers..which one?
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 16:17:27 -0400
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My mom has the EVC IV in her car and once I manually did it, it was awesome,
I really saw a huge difference, but which is better the EVC IV or the Blitz
DSBC?  Can you manually do the DSBC?  Or don't you have to do 110 mph to
setup the DSBC like the EVC.  Also I know a guy selling a EVC III atm which
he says was worth $1000 but he would sell it for $440.  What is up with that
model?  Thanks a lot
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:40:39 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
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In a message dated 5/17/99 6:23:40 AM Central Daylight Time,
phnxgld@erols.com writes:

<< Roger, not sure what else I can add, but the link is:
http://www.ground-control.com/
  >>

Can someone tell me how low this lower our cars?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:42:47 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controllers..which one?
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Correct me if i'm wrong anybody, but i belive the only reason HKS reduced
the price of the EVC between the III and IV is Greddy came out with the
PROfec at a price of ~$500. Meanwhile, 2-3 other companies released
electronic boost controllers in the same $500 price range. There was no way
for HKS to compete with a pricetag of $1000. At that point they reduced the
price and put a IV at the end. Of course thats just one man's opinion.......

Wayne


At 03:17 PM 5/17/99 , you wrote:
>Also I know a guy selling a EVC III atm which
>he says was worth $1000 but he would sell it for $440.  What is up with that
>model?


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:45:16 1999
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Anyone have a photo of a piston for 3S TT?


--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:47:47 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
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At 08:38 AM 5/17/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
>
>
>> DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
>!
>> Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
>> join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
>> you are interested, contact ASAP
>
>
Count me in. Send details on how to arrange purchase.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:51:38 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: EVC III atm....
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However, to answer your question about the "atm", this is a feature that
enables the EVC to automatically compensate for altitude changes through
the use of an atmospheric pressure sensor......Otherwise it's the same as
the standard EVC III.

Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 13:52:15 1999
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In a message dated 5/17/99 3:48:51 PM Central Daylight Time,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net writes:

<< >Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
>
>
>> DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
>!
>> Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
>> join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
>> you are interested, contact ASAP >>


IF someone can tell me how low this will lower my car, i might be in. : )
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 14:27:57 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
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Sounds like something i'd like to be in on. Except, i dunno what they do
exactly ;). Someone give up the goodies.

Thanks,
Gavin

>>> xwing <xwing@execpc.com> 05/17/99 11:23am >>>
DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
adjustable/lowering spring
suspension kits, such as Barry King and several other List Members
have
already and have been raving about!  WE 3S  people CAN join the buy!
Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
you are interested, contact ASAP:

Joe Kou    af3976@wayne.edu

Jack Tertadian

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost Controllers..which one?
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:57:29 +1200
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> I really saw a huge difference, but which is better the EVC
> IV or the Blitz DSBC?  Can you manually do the DSBC?  Or
> don't you have to do 110 mph to setup the DSBC like the EVC.

I have no knowledge of the EVC, but the Blitz does not require
the car to be raced in order to set it up.  The Blitz provides
you with the means to run a consistant pressure at one of four
predefined (by yourself) settings.  It has a built in digital
boost guage and peak boost hold.

More information on the setup of this can be found at Roger's
site:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/dsbc_manual.html

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 15:31:42 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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First, thanks to Jack that brought this to our attention ! And NO he is not the
coordinator and don't send any count-me-in or whatever to his attention nor to
the list.

If you don't know what it is ... you don't need it (although Jack wrote it in
his post what it is). If you have some money left then jump to the GP page on my
site

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html

For any question regarding price and amount the contact person is Joe Kou
(af3976@wayne.edu). He grabs the people together and sends Ground Control the
list of the participants. Payment and shipping will then handled by them. Please
note that Joe is a proud DSM owner and cannot answer you specific 3000GT
questions.

Of course some questions like "how much lower will be my car" (to the ground if
you want) or "what spring rate should be used" are valid ones and can maybe
answered by some people who already have them on their car.

Hope this helps !
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 15:34:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 00:33:39 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Piston Q?
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> Anyone have a photo of a piston for 3S TT?

Yes, but what exactly do you want or what is your aim ??

The BAD pics are on my page under the "problems" section :
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/engine_problems.html


-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 15:39:26 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ALL !! Ground Control Group Purchase
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:33:33 -0400
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What if we have eibach spring already?  Can these be used with the other
parts???

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 6:30 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ALL !! Ground Control Group
Purchase

First, thanks to Jack that brought this to our attention !
And NO he is not the
coordinator and don't send any count-me-in or whatever to
his attention nor to
the list.

If you don't know what it is ... you don't need it (although
Jack wrote it in
his post what it is). If you have some money left then jump
to the GP page on my
site


http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html

For any question regarding price and amount the contact
person is Joe Kou
(af3976@wayne.edu). He grabs the people together and sends
Ground Control the
list of the participants. Payment and shipping will then
handled by them. Please
note that Joe is a proud DSM owner and cannot answer you
specific 3000GT
questions.

Of course some questions like "how much lower will be my
car" (to the ground if
you want) or "what spring rate should be used" are valid
ones and can maybe
answered by some people who already have them on their car.

Hope this helps !
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 15:45:41 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controllers..which one?
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The mostly bought EBCs are the Blitz DSBC and the Apexi SAVC-R. In an objective
comparison both got about the same points. But of course some may find an IDC
display much more valuable than a peak hold feature.

For the DSBC, Kevin explained it very well. After using the DSBC for over a
year, I think it is a great tool but also somewhat difficult as you have the
full control. As the season changes you also have to change the settings a
little. No big deal but I'm often find myself trying another settings under
different ambient.

The AVC-R is a very good BC and has some function like IDC monitor and self
learning. The later seems to work very good compared to other products and if
you want a fire-and-forget feature, the Apexi is the best choice.

The street prices for the AVC-R is around $460 while the Blitz DSBC can be get
for under $400.

Happy boosting,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 16:00:50 1999
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Trying to come up with a good design.  I was talking with a friend about the Type R
acura, and how he liked their piston design.  He wants to try some interesting ideas
with his (was mine about 4 days ago) VR-4.

He owns A&S rebuilds, and a dealership.  He has plans to do a lot of engine work to that
bad boy since he owns the shop that does that sort of thing.  He's had it 4 days, and
he's got the whole thing torn apart, and is porting/polishing tonight, and tomorrow.

They have some nice CC machining equipment, and we are trying to come up with any ideas
for a better piston design.

Can you machine forged Pistons???  I know nothing more than simple physics when it comes
to cars so forgive my ignorance.  There is a local Motorcycle performance shop who does
custom piston work, and routinely works with Titanium/Kevlar reinforced pistons and high
technologies like they put on those things these days.  Hoping ot come up with some
really good piston design. Ideas?

"R.G." wrote:

> > Anyone have a photo of a piston for 3S TT?
>
> Yes, but what exactly do you want or what is your aim ??

-snip-

--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 17:01:18 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ALL !! Ground Control Group Purchase
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:55:24 -0400
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Does ECS still work if you keep you stock struts? 

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 6:30 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ALL !! Ground Control Group
Purchase

First, thanks to Jack that brought this to our attention !
And NO he is not the
coordinator and don't send any count-me-in or whatever to
his attention nor to
the list.

If you don't know what it is ... you don't need it (although
Jack wrote it in
his post what it is). If you have some money left then jump
to the GP page on my
site


http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html

For any question regarding price and amount the contact
person is Joe Kou
(af3976@wayne.edu). He grabs the people together and sends
Ground Control the
list of the participants. Payment and shipping will then
handled by them. Please
note that Joe is a proud DSM owner and cannot answer you
specific 3000GT
questions.

Of course some questions like "how much lower will be my
car" (to the ground if
you want) or "what spring rate should be used" are valid
ones and can maybe
answered by some people who already have them on their car.

Hope this helps !
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 18:07:50 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ALL !! Ground Control Group Purchase
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:02:02 -0400
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I talked with the guy who is putting together the group purchase and he
didn't know so I will ask you guys.  I know there was  a lot of talk that if
you wanted to go lower then the eibachs you had to cut the frame rail or
something, do you hafta do that with this setup?  I am thinking about
selling my eibach lowering springs and just getting this setup.  Can anyone
tell me how they like it?  Does it work with the stock struts and ecs?
Thanks for any info

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 6:30 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: ALL !! Ground Control Group
Purchase

First, thanks to Jack that brought this to our attention !
And NO he is not the
coordinator and don't send any count-me-in or whatever to
his attention nor to
the list.

If you don't know what it is ... you don't need it (although
Jack wrote it in
his post what it is). If you have some money left then jump
to the GP page on my
site


http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html

For any question regarding price and amount the contact
person is Joe Kou
(af3976@wayne.edu). He grabs the people together and sends
Ground Control the
list of the participants. Payment and shipping will then
handled by them. Please
note that Joe is a proud DSM owner and cannot answer you
specific 3000GT
questions.

Of course some questions like "how much lower will be my
car" (to the ground if
you want) or "what spring rate should be used" are valid
ones and can maybe
answered by some people who already have them on their car.

Hope this helps !
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/testpipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines
Bremsa brakes,u-Mevius Street Race pads

Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 19:51:47 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:50:19 -0500
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>>>> xwing <xwing@execpc.com> 05/17/99 11:23am >>>
>DSM list is having a Group Purchase on Ground Control
>adjustable/lowering spring
>suspension kits, such as Barry King and several other List Members
>have
>already and have been raving about!  WE 3S  people CAN join the buy!
>Usual price is $400, they are down to $325 now.  If 6 more people
>join, price will be $300 each kit.  I am getting this for my '94; if
>you are interested, contact ASAP:


Does anyone know if the OEM adjustment range can be made
to get the wheels into a proper (non-wearing) alignment using
this hardware?  (95 VR-4.)
Regards, ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 19:57:05 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:00:19 -0700
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You'll likely want to consider the camber adjustment kit for the front for
best results, which GC also sells.

The stock setup requires notching and fiddling, which is doable but takes
some potentially finicky effort.  There is no camber adjustment kit for the
rear that I have seen.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Does anyone know if the OEM adjustment range can be made
> to get the wheels into a proper (non-wearing) alignment using
> this hardware?  (95 VR-4.)
> Regards, ptg


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 19:57:09 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
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:
>
>
> Does anyone know if the OEM adjustment range can be made
> to get the wheels into a proper (non-wearing) alignment using
> this hardware?  (95 VR-4.)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you leave the ride height stock, the adjustments should remain the same.
Lowering the car excessively may cause adjustment range problems.

Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:02:53 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:06:08 -0700
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According to GC you should be able to drop the car in excess of 2" but it is
advised NOT to do that since it will definitely mess with the steering
geometry and as Jim says adjustability becomes a serious concern.

The kit isn't intended for "slamming" the car, but to offer a range of
adjustment for tuning the ride height for performance handling reasons while
maintaining full suspension travel unlike lowering springs.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> > Does anyone know if the OEM adjustment range can be made
> > to get the wheels into a proper (non-wearing) alignment using
> > this hardware?  (95 VR-4.)
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----------------------------
>
> If you leave the ride height stock, the adjustments should remain
> the same.
> Lowering the car excessively may cause adjustment range problems.
>
> Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:04:38 1999
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Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:06:41 -0400
From: Bill Wagner <wagner@sprynet.com>
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How much do these seats weigh???


Bill Wagner

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> For anybody interested in a racing seat...
> I've just chosen the following for myself.
> Corbeau Forza CSForza
> I have a list price of $220 with shipping included for each seat
> plus $78.50 for each bracket. I was also able to get a 5% list discount
> set up for anyone interested. Mention 3SI list. They can be seen at:
> http://www.sportscar-parts.com/seats.html
> These seats are rated, approved and cut a bit larger for an American butt.
> They also make a more padded model called Forza 2 but its heavier
> BTW, I have not used or sat in them yet so make your own decisions.
> Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:06:05 1999
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From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:05:44 -0400
Subject: Team3S: (Fwd) Water Injection...
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Here's an interesting point from the Dragnet list.

Doug is thinking about building a water injection system for < $300? (I think). He has
the capability and has made one work in the past, he is just modifying his old design to
work for a 3S.

Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
(Maybe we can get him to join the Team3S tech list!)
------- Forwarded Message Follows -------
Date forwarded: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:43:48 -0700 (PDT)
Date sent:      Mon, 17 May 1999 13:41:53 -0400
From:           Douglas Saylor <doug@natasha.iusb.edu>
To:             "stealth@dragnet.com" <stealth@dragnet.com>
Subject:        Water Injection... 2nd try
Forwarded by:   stealth@dragnet.com
Send reply to:  stealth@dragnet.com

Ok, here are some things I have been thinking about...Lets call them design notes.

1. Water Pressure
First, the water solution pressure at the jet(s) needs to be at least 3 bars ( 43.5 psi).
Otherwise, the water will not atomize. I know what your thinking, I can get water to
atomize at around 20 psi. That's true, however, remember when your turbos are pushing 17
psi of boost the differential pressure at the jets would only be 3lbs..barely a drop.

2. Pump
#1 creates a small problem. Pumps that can do this type on pressure in a reasonable
amount of space and that handle water are pricey. I know your thinking fuel pump. A fuel
pump is not designed for water and will fail shortly. The best choice is a magnetic
piston or gear pump. These are very expensive. A similar mag piston pump that aquamist
uses runs around $300. That's only reason it's so pricey.

The solution I think is best is as follows:
Use a 12vdc air pump like they have to inflate tires. They are small and cheap about $20.
Use that to pressurize  a container with water. This is cheap and has the advantage of
instant pressure when you need it - no lag. Containers that can do this are pricey so I
propose to use pvc pipe with caps. They can be drilled and tapped for much less then
other containers and will hold the pressure fine. The only problem is the noise of the
pump... they're pretty loud.

3. To control the amount of water a electronic valve should be used. The water will be
controlled by short bursts. This can be done with a pulse wave modulator of a micro
controller.

4. Current systems use a pressure switch to turn on. Note that the high end aquamist uses
a system that I consider to be good and not just a pressure switch. The water should be
ramped up at boost and rpm increase. This is easy to do with a micro controller as well.
The rpm sense could be done with a coil around a spark plug cable.

Most of the cheaper systems out there do not use a high pressure pump and I question
their ability to work at high boosts. Also there is no fail safe on the pressure switch.
If the switch fails closed the pump will dump all the water into the engine doing some
not so great things.

Doug
95 R/T TT

These are all my opinions, if you don't agree - good. Tell me why and we can find a
better answer.
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:11:48 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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References: <7057B516B5F8D11198320080296571A2234832@EXCHANGE>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ALL !! Ground Control Group Purchase
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:09:30 -0700
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> I talked with the guy who is putting together the group purchase and he
> didn't know so I will ask you guys.  I know there was  a lot of talk that if
> you wanted to go lower then the eibachs you had to cut the frame rail or
> something, do you hafta do that with this setup?  I am thinking about
> selling my eibach lowering springs and just getting this setup.  Can anyone
> tell me how they like it?  Does it work with the stock struts and ecs?
> Thanks for any info
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--

The limiting factor when excessively lowering the car is probably suspension
travel and suspension adjustment. These cars have little suspension travel
to start with,and lowering them will reduce the travel even further. If you want
a ground pounder [ more than 1 1/2 or 2" ] you may require drastic measures.
In addition lowering the car affects the camber and you will probably exceed
the adjustment limits.


            Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:12:55 1999
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From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Organization: Very little ... as always
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:12:39 -0400
Subject: Team3S: 1st Gen Hood scoops
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Would anyone be interested in some custom designed hood scoops for a 1st Gen? I was
talking to my (almost) brother in-law this weekend and he said it shouldn't be a problem
to put something together. He is in the "scoot" business (that's an air boat by another
name) and makes his own propellers for them. He can feed a wooden propeller into one of
his and it works like a wood chipper! so I think he may know what he's doing. I have a
1st Gen so I could supply him with the hood "blisters" for making a mold. The only
question is what ends would a scoop work best and what price would make it worth
continuing?

Email me privately if anyone is interested in me persuing this at all.

Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:26:03 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
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At 08:06 PM 5/17/99 -0700, you wrote:
>According to GC you should be able to drop the car in excess of 2" but it is
>advised NOT to do that since it will definitely mess with the steering
>geometry and as Jim says adjustability becomes a serious concern.

As I understand it, lowering the car increases the camber (makes the wheels
lean in at the top), which is ideal for racing.

I'm ordering a set so I can drive a perfectly aligned, normal ride height
car to an open track event.

When I arrive, I'll jack it up, lower the car, increase the camber,  adjust
out the high speed push, and just have a better handling car. When I'm all
finished at the event, I intend to jack it up, adjust back to stock height,
and drive home with the car perfectly aligned once again.

Anybody see a problem with this?
If so, speak up.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:31:01 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 20:34:15 -0700
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Nope.  That'll work just great.  Check the price on their camber kit.  It is
affordable.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> At 08:06 PM 5/17/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >According to GC you should be able to drop the car in excess of
> 2" but it is
> >advised NOT to do that since it will definitely mess with the steering
> >geometry and as Jim says adjustability becomes a serious concern.
>
> As I understand it, lowering the car increases the camber (makes
> the wheels
> lean in at the top), which is ideal for racing.
>
> I'm ordering a set so I can drive a perfectly aligned, normal ride height
> car to an open track event.
>
> When I arrive, I'll jack it up, lower the car, increase the
> camber,  adjust
> out the high speed push, and just have a better handling car. When I'm all
> finished at the event, I intend to jack it up, adjust back to
> stock height,
> and drive home with the car perfectly aligned once again.
>
> Anybody see a problem with this?
> If so, speak up.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:36:39 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
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Anyone have any thoughts on what spring rates are most appropriate for open
track driving?

I notice some push at high speeds, and I'm hoping that lowering the car and
a higher spring rate will cure the push. But what rate? Same front and rear?

I'd like to keep the car streetable, too. Will the ECS continue to work?

Any ideas?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 20:57:22 1999
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Bill;

As in anything, the aesthetics of the product would be a deciding factor in it's success.
Once you have a prototype, and I assume good looking one, interest may balloon.

Best

Darc



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 21:08:19 1999
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From: "Pandya, Raagi" <raagi.pandya@ca.unisys.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Misc thoughts about Ground Control....
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:03:55 -0500
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Just some comments, from my previous experience with GC equipment on other
models....

> As I understand it, lowering the car increases the camber (makes
> the wheels
> lean in at the top), which is ideal for racing.
>
> I'm ordering a set so I can drive a perfectly aligned, normal ride >height
> car to an open track event.
>
> When I arrive, I'll jack it up, lower the car, increase the
> camber,  adjust
> out the high speed push, and just have a better handling car. When
> I'm all
> finished at the event, I intend to jack it up, adjust back to
> stock height,
> and drive home with the car perfectly aligned once again.
>
> Anybody see a problem with this?
> If so, speak up.

First off, unfortunately it's not as simple as 'jacking it up and lowering
it'.  Unless you have the car properly corner-weighted, you risk drastically
altering the steering/handling balance.  If you ever see a track car with
adjustable heights, these guys invariably spend most of their time corner
weighting the car after EVERY adjustment.

Essentially, you really should corner-weight it every time, it's the only
way you can be sure that you haven't made a pronounced mistake that could
serious bite you at the track. 
Corner-weighting is not that difficult, but you need the right tools.
Check any Racer's Wholesale (et. al) for the various equipment.  It's not
that expensive.  Of course corner-weighting is a great adjustment tool for
getting that perfect track set-up...

Secondly, I can't speak for the 3KGT/Stealth, but most cars, after having
been 'adjusted' up-or-down, will require a front-end alignment. Otherwise
you'll have to 'accept' a compromise alignment setting, which may be
acceptable at the track, but totally unsuitable on the street, or
vice-versa.

Thirdly, I don't know if everyone understands this, but the GC has no
provisions for actual 'settings', it's essentially one big threaded collar.
You cannot (as it is shipped) set specific levels (for example, one for the
track, one for the street).  You can attempt to 'mark' the threads, or count
rotations, but there are no discreet 'notches'.  This makes adjusting rather
difficult, and once again, you'll probably have to corner-weight it after
every adjustment just to be sure the car is level.

I have seen 'other' adjustable height collars, which have several fixed
'grooves' for adjustability, instead of one big threaded collar.  GAB has
this type of assembly (for various cars, but invariably not for the 3KGT).
This would seem to be a slightly easier solution, as you can set the height
to 'three from the bottom'.

The ultimate set-up would be to have the GAB-type adjustable collars, with a
similar set-up for adjusting the camber, toe and caster. That way you arrive
at the track, set the adjustable struts at 2, the adjustable springs at 3,
the camber at -3' and zero toe all around.  Then after, set it all back to
normal.  Now all you need is for someone to build it.....

Comments, questions, any non-flames welcome :)

Regards
Raagi Pandya
Montreal, Canada
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 21:14:05 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase!
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:17:20 -0700
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> Anyone have any thoughts on what spring rates are most
> appropriate for open
> track driving?

See below.

> I notice some push at high speeds, and I'm hoping that lowering
> the car and
> a higher spring rate will cure the push. But what rate? Same
> front and rear?

Loading is in the neighborhood of 60% front, 40% rear.  Probably closer to
55/45.  You'll want to balance springs accordingly plus give consideration
to weight transfer under braking.  Talk to Jay at GC, tell him what you want
to do with the car and he should be able to zero you in pretty quickly.

> I'd like to keep the car streetable, too. Will the ECS continue to work?

ECS goes away when the stock struts are replaced.  Should work if you keep
the stock struts.  However, I suspect that the new springs won't be the best
match to the stock struts.  You may want to give serious consideration to
getting GABs or perhaps something that GC offers to round out the package.

> Any ideas?

Always ;)

> Rich/old poop/94 VR4


Regards,

Barry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 21:16:47 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <199905180312.XAA23619@host.kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1st Gen Hood scoops
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:14:30 -0700
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: 1st Gen Hood scoops
> 1st Gen so I could supply him with the hood "blisters" for making a mold. The only
> question is what ends would a scoop work best and what price would make it worth
> continuing?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----------------

In response to which direction the scoops should point --- I posted some weeks ago
that I installed motors on my 93 Stealth scoops such that they open about 21/2" in front.
Some very preliminary temperature measurements show little improvement in intake air
temp. Since they're electrically operated I can open and close them while driving and
I didn't see any drastic changes in temperature.
Extraction scoops may work better but I have no information on their effectiveness.
I plan on doing additional testing on my scoops when these group purchases quit
draining my pocketbook.


          Jim berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 21:29:05 1999
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From: "Owens, Trent L." <Trent.Owens@destia.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1st Gen Hood scoops
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:26:54 -0500
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In response to the direction of the scoops:

What if you directed the opening of the right "blister" scoop to the front.
(forcing air in) AND Direct the left opening towards the windshield as to
create air flow through the engine bay.  This will keep fresh air coming in
at or near the filter element giving it the coolest possible charge air.

Since the engine bay is "sealed" so effectively the "East->West" air flow
will (In theory) keep the cool air where it should be. (near the filter)

What do you think?

Trent Owens.




-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Berry [mailto:fastmax@home.com]
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 11:15 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1st Gen Hood scoops


: 1st Gen Hood scoops
> 1st Gen so I could supply him with the hood "blisters" for making a mold.
The only
> question is what ends would a scoop work best and what price would make it
worth
> continuing?
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------
-----------------

In response to which direction the scoops should point --- I posted some
weeks ago
that I installed motors on my 93 Stealth scoops such that they open about
21/2" in front.
Some very preliminary temperature measurements show little improvement in
intake air
temp. Since they're electrically operated I can open and close them while
driving and
I didn't see any drastic changes in temperature.
Extraction scoops may work better but I have no information on their
effectiveness.
I plan on doing additional testing on my scoops when these group purchases
quit
draining my pocketbook.


          Jim berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 21:34:29 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Temp. gauge
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Hi all,

I hit a major pot hole today!  Scared the sh-- out of me!  I noticed
that my temp. gauge was reading at a higher temp. than usual after I hit that
pot hole.  I wonder if I hit the pot hole so hard (yes, it did bend my wheel)
that it caused a fuse to break or a relay to become defective.   I checked
the fans while the car was running; and only the passenger side radiator fan
was running - NOT the driver's side.  The temp. gauge is not reading too
high, though; just higher than my normal range of almost half way when hot.  
Any ideas? 

Thanks,
Ahmed - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 22:00:40 1999
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TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:

> << someone on the message boards was experimenting w/putting in a corvette 6
>  spd. >>
> I believe 6 speed vette trans is by Getrag;
>  our car,  Supra, Corvette and
> Camaro.
> I'll keep list posted with my progress.
>
> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4

The Vette etc. trans will not work.
The basic problem is that OUR engine is TRANSVERSE
(mounted sideways) and has 3 (THREE) power output
points coming out of the transmission:  2 for front wheels, and
one coming out BACK toward engine going INTO transfer case which
changes direction of shaft rotation from SIDEWAYS
to LONGITUDINAL (going front-to-back) to get to
rear differential.  Corvette, Supra etc are REARwheel
drive and have very simple trans bolting to engine, and
power output going from engine BACK to trans BACK to
rear differential.

I don't know what internal parts may be interchangeable,
if any.  I have been unable to get hold of my Getrag
contacts for over a month ++...
Of interest:  Getrag is making the trans for an upcoming
Audi AWD of about 350hp, I wonder what trans THAT
uses, if it is heavier duty than ours etc.
Getrag calls our 5-speeds "440" transaxles; the
6-speeds are called "446" transaxles in their company's
naming system.

Jack Tertadian

PS  Contact Joe Kou for Ground Control group purchase, or
goto website http://www.ground-control.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 23:33:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
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In a message dated 5/17/99 10:03:31 PM Central Daylight Time, beking@home.com
writes:

<< According to GC you should be able to drop the car in excess of 2" but it
is
advised NOT to do that since it will definitely mess with the steering
geometry and as Jim says adjustability becomes a serious concern.

The kit isn't intended for "slamming" the car, but to offer a range of
adjustment for tuning the ride height for performance handling reasons while
maintaining full suspension travel unlike lowering springs.


Regards,

Barry >>


This sounds like what i want.. WOuld a drop of 2.25 be WAY to much do you all
think? I am not looking for the "G funk, low rider look" I am going for the
lowered, racecar look. : ) and would like to have good suspension..

jeff.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 23:34:59 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 02:34:22 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: (Fwd) Water Injection...
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In a message dated 5/17/99 10:07:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
millebi@kw.igs.net writes:

<< Doug is thinking about building a water injection system for < $300? (I
think). He has
the capability and has made one work in the past, he is just modifying his
old design to
work for a 3S.

Bill >>

Will he be selling these?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon May 17 23:50:05 1999
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From: BDLSOO7@webtv.net (chris hill)
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 01:50:01 -0500 (CDT)
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: turbo question
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there is a japanese website out there, with a gto using twin TDO5 units,
from dsm's. would this be a difficult mod. someone on this list posted
the website sometime ago,and i forgot the thing. anyway, it was in
japanese, so the only thing i could understand was the pictures. i could
be wrong ,but i think these units were 14B, unlike my 9B 1st, generation
vr4 TDO4's.
someone overseas made them work, so why cant we? if anyone knows
anything about this mod, let me know if its fesable. thanks again.
                                   chris hill
                                    91,vr4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 00:07:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 03:11:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1st Gen Hood scoops
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I believe this topic has come up before on the starnet list.  Call me
crazy but I would want a scoop w/BOTH openings in the front & rear for
max air flow (w/a possible divider in the middle).  As to whether this
fresh air will reach the FIPK or not , I doubt it because of the forward
motion of the car (most air is coming from front) and the FIPK is too far
forward of the strut cover opening.  But these vents will aid greatly in
cooling the engine, once parked.  I drove my VR4 around w/o strut tower
covers on (ugly I know) and you can see the heat coming out when parked.

The best route for fresh air is quite simply, punch a hole in the hood
right before the FIPK.  I plan to go this route when I have the $$$ and
can find a shop capable of such.  I think it'll look sweet w/a little
ferrari/naca style duct on the hood.  I need a new paint job on the hood
anyway.

I even pondered taking off the pop up lights (just for racing purposes),
but the lights are enclosed in by a wall (that combined w/the bump
[crumple zone support?] in the hood won't let much air pass) and then the
fuse box is the next big obstacle before the FIPK.  On my Supra when I
take of the passenger headlight, it's perfect for fresh air to go right
into the K&N (RS akimoto).  I even drove around like this and it does
make a seat of the pants difference.

On another note, I may have found a shop that can fabricate a DP that
eliminates both precats on the VR4 and for a good price.  I'll be
contacing them later this week.  They work solely on race cars & such and
they're located close to Atlanta Dragway. 
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 00:15:17 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 03:20:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
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OK I'm kinda lost two, what exactly are we buying??  struts?  springs?
or BOTH??  and they're height adjustable???  dam I just bought RSRs...

On Mon, 17 May 1999 17:26:10 -0400 Gavin Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
writes:
>Sounds like something i'd like to be in on. Except, i dunno what they
>do>exactly ;). Someone give up the goodies.
>
>Thanks,
>Gavin
>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 00:28:03 1999
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Follow the link for more info...  It's springs with an adjustable mounting plate, you
retain the original struts and ECS if you have it.
http://www.ground-control.com/

Nick Xiong wrote:

> OK I'm kinda lost two, what exactly are we buying??  struts?  springs?
> or BOTH??  and they're height adjustable???  dam I just bought RSRs...
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 03:20:39 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 06:14:45 -0400
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The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...

-----Original Message-----
From: xwing [mailto:xwing@execpc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 1:00 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.



TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:

> << someone on the message boards was experimenting
w/putting in a corvette 6
>  spd. >>
> I believe 6 speed vette trans is by Getrag;
>  our car,  Supra, Corvette and
> Camaro.
> I'll keep list posted with my progress.
>
> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4

The Vette etc. trans will not work.
The basic problem is that OUR engine is TRANSVERSE
(mounted sideways) and has 3 (THREE) power output
points coming out of the transmission:  2 for front wheels,
and
one coming out BACK toward engine going INTO transfer case
which
changes direction of shaft rotation from SIDEWAYS
to LONGITUDINAL (going front-to-back) to get to
rear differential.  Corvette, Supra etc are REARwheel
drive and have very simple trans bolting to engine, and
power output going from engine BACK to trans BACK to
rear differential.

I don't know what internal parts may be interchangeable,
if any.  I have been unable to get hold of my Getrag
contacts for over a month ++...
Of interest:  Getrag is making the trans for an upcoming
Audi AWD of about 350hp, I wonder what trans THAT
uses, if it is heavier duty than ours etc.
Getrag calls our 5-speeds "440" transaxles; the
6-speeds are called "446" transaxles in their company's
naming system.

Jack Tertadian

PS  Contact Joe Kou for Ground Control group purchase, or
goto website http://www.ground-control.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 05:08:19 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:06:50 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Tire Question-Off topic
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Can you Fit a 315-35-17 on a 17by9inch wheel? I just want to know if it will
fit!


Thanks
Cliff
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 05:15:27 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:15:51 -0400
From: RPM Motorsport <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Organization: RPM Motorsport
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: turbo question
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There does exist a TD05-16G 8cm^2 turbo kit for the 3000GT. It includes stainless steel
manifolds and utilizes external wastegates. I've been offering this kit for awhile. But
customers usually back away after finding out the pricing for it. The turbo kit is bolt
in, with exception to having to modify the downpipe and intercooler pipe to fit it.

chris hill wrote:

> there is a japanese website out there, with a gto using twin TDO5 units,
> from dsm's. would this be a difficult mod. someone on this list posted
> the website sometime ago,and i forgot the thing. anyway, it was in
> japanese, so the only thing i could understand was the pictures. i could
> be wrong ,but i think these units were 14B, unlike my 9B 1st, generation
> vr4 TDO4's.
> someone overseas made them work, so why cant we? if anyone knows
> anything about this mod, let me know if its fesable. thanks again.
>                                    chris hill
>                                     91,vr4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 05:51:35 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Tire Question-Off topic
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In a message dated 5/18/99 7:10:56 AM Central Daylight Time, SHaBEEF@aol.com
writes:

<< Can you Fit a 315-35-17 on a 17by9inch wheel? I just want to know if it
will
fit!


Thanks
Cliff >>

You're asking if the 315/35/17 tire can fit a 17x9 wheel?  The answer is yes;
BUT you have to check and see if the wheel offset and tire side wall will fit
our cars!?  In my opinion (I may be wrong), I do NOT think that this set up
will work on our cars.  I have NOT heard of anyone from our list that has
taken such a large width tire and fitted it on our cars, yet.  ( I definitely
DO NOT recommend wheel spacers for our cars, either!)

Good luck,
Ahmed - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 06:05:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:03:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1st Gen Hood scoops
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Okay guys,  since we are on the subject of hood scoops; I recall a
certain 3000GT website that included Japanese alterations; it also had a
section on Kaze and Bozz Speed hood scoops.  The Kaze section had a
"headlight intake" modification (1st. generation only - I am very interested
in this part - price: $120);  Also Bozz Speed makes "Bonnet scoops" for our
1st. generation cars.  I would like to include the webpage link with this
post I'm sending but I'm not sure if I'll be breaking our mailing list
guidelines; so here are the webpage addresses:

http://home.adelphia.net/~rpmmotor/html/kaze.html 
&
http://home.adelphia.net/~rpmmotor/index.html

Hope this helps!
Good luck,

Ahmed - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 07:36:51 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 07:40:13 -0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt

A 2" or more drop doesn't sound like much but is rather dramatic.  GC
suggested that 2" would be the outer limit from a practical standpoint
without causing other serious suspension and steering geometry problems.
You could try it but I suspect you'll run into clearance issues if not
worse.  A 1.5" to 1.75" drop makes the car's stance very agressive and is
still more or less practical on the street.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
> TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 11:33 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
>
>
> In a message dated 5/17/99 10:03:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
> beking@home.com
> writes:
>
> << According to GC you should be able to drop the car in excess
> of 2" but it
> is
>  advised NOT to do that since it will definitely mess with the steering
>  geometry and as Jim says adjustability becomes a serious concern.
>
>  The kit isn't intended for "slamming" the car, but to offer a range of
>  adjustment for tuning the ride height for performance handling
> reasons while
>  maintaining full suspension travel unlike lowering springs.
>
>
>  Regards,
>
>  Barry >>
>
>
> This sounds like what i want.. WOuld a drop of 2.25 be WAY to
> much do you all
> think? I am not looking for the "G funk, low rider look" I am
> going for the
> lowered, racecar look. : ) and would like to have good suspension..
>
> jeff.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 08:12:47 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux
In-Reply-To: <001401bea0df$4d94c860$0500a8c0@beast.kingdom.com>
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Let me try the open track question again....

I asked: 

> I'm ordering a set so I can drive a perfectly aligned, normal ride height
>> car to an open track event.  When I arrive, I'll jack it up, lower the
car, increase the
>> camber,  adjust out the high speed push, and just have a better handling
car. When I'm all
>> finished at the event, I intend to jack it up, adjust back to
>> stock height, and drive home with the car perfectly aligned once again.
Anybody see a problem with this?

Barry said:
>>
>Nope.  That'll work just great.  Check the price on their camber kit.  It is
>affordable.
>
Oops, I  mis-spoke. I don't wanna be adjusting camber.

What I REALLY want to do is go to the track with a perfectly aligned car,
jack it up, lower it an inch or so, run all weekend, jack it up, raise it
back up to the proper street height (by counting threads or whatever), and
then drive it home as a perfectly aligned car.

I don't want to have to check corner weights or set the camber every time I
do this.

As I understand it, when you lower the car, the camber automatically
increases, which is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back to street
height, the camber automatically adjusts itself back to being perfect
again. N'est ce pas?

I may have to fiddle with ride heights at the first coupla track events to
find the ride height settings that eliminate push, but once that's
accomplished (and the settings noted), I forsee being finished with further
fiddling, Fred.

I am envisioning a SIMPLE trackside procedure, not a major alignment project.

NOW does anyone see a problem with this?

If it ain't as easy as I hope, I may have to start trailering to and from
events. It's tough enough running the Old Poop Brake Shop all weekend, I
don't need to open a front end shop too. Open Track events are supposed to
be FUN.
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 08:48:19 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux
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I'm sure you can get it close, but i would still check the alignment
somehow. I'm sure you know that you will probably eat up a set of tires
each time you go to the track, right? When you factor in the price of a new
set of tires each time you go to the track, a $70 alignment starts to sound
pretty cheap.......


At 10:10 AM 5/18/99 , you wrote:
>Let me try the open track question again....

>Oops, I  mis-spoke. I don't wanna be adjusting camber.
>
>What I REALLY want to do is go to the track with a perfectly aligned car,
>jack it up, lower it an inch or so, run all weekend, jack it up, raise it
>back up to the proper street height (by counting threads or whatever), and
>then drive it home as a perfectly aligned car.

>As I understand it, when you lower the car, the camber automatically
>increases, which is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back to street
>height, the camber automatically adjusts itself back to being perfect
>again. N'est ce pas?

>NOW does anyone see a problem with this?


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 08:57:40 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Need help finding Chapor ID kits! Anyone?
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I was recently in a $10K accident and two months later, I still haven't gotten my car
back.  The origional Chapor ID kit ripped while being removed.  The old
www.alldata.com\chapor\ address is invalid.  Please mail me if you have his e-mail or
web address.  Thanks in advance.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 09:50:25 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:50:22 -0500
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> The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...

How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny?  Are you sure he
didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD?  Or did he just somehow swap
the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work.  I'm pretty sure
there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop it in
and have it work.

-Matt

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 10:01:51 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:01:50 -0500
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Hmm, this could be a pretty good way to go since Corvette parts are a lot
more readily available than the Mitsu stuff..  Thanks for the info!

-Matt


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joshua [mailto:joshua@princelaw.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 11:51 AM
> To: 'Matt Jannusch '
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
>
>  I donno what the guy said is he kept the case which kept the 4
> wheel drive
> working but put in a corvette gear box.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Jannusch
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Sent: 5/18/99 12:50 PM
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
>
> How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny?  Are you sure
> he
> didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD?  Or did he just somehow
> swap
> the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work.  I'm pretty sure
> there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop
> it in
> and have it work.
>
> -Matt
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 10:33:18 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:06:13 +0100
From: "Moravek, David" <David.J.Moravek@wcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

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I just got on this list yesterday, and everything I've seen has been =
great.
I think the people that reply to these question are very knowledgeable =
and
helpful.  Therefor I thought I would put all you to the test.

I replaced my motor because of an internal problem. But now that I've
replaced the motor a Yugo and kick my ass. My car feels like it has an
injector problem. I've had the injectors cleaned but no help.  I was
wondering what else I might check.

These are my symptoms

=B7 It is VERY slow when I first drive off from a standstill. =20
=B7 It also has very bad hesitation when my foot is into it. =20
=B7 It has moments of good acceleration, but only for a sec.=20
=B7 It feels like it will never build full power.  But if I pump the =
gas
peddle it feels like it will accelerate faster but nothing too quick.
=B7 I still have good power at the top end but it takes me forever to =
get to
that speed.
=B7 My check engine light is "ON"

I have a 1992 3000GT -VR4,   and no a Yugo has not beating me but I =
won't
race anything right now :).

I was wondering if could be a timing problem because of the back =
firing?


Can anyone help with this problem?  Can a diagnostic check find my =
problem?=20


David Moravek

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3DISO-8859-1">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version =
5.5.2569.0">
<TITLE>Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I just got on this list yesterday, and =
everything I've seen has been great.&nbsp; I think the people that =
reply to these question are very knowledgeable and helpful.&nbsp; =
Therefor I thought I would put all you to the test.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I replaced my motor because of an =
internal problem. But now that I've replaced the motor a Yugo and kick =
my ass. My car feels like it has an injector problem. I've had the =
injectors cleaned but no help.&nbsp; I was wondering what else I might =
check.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">These are my symptoms</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">=B7 It is VERY slow when I first drive =
off from a standstill.&nbsp; </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">=B7 It also has very bad hesitation =
when my foot is into it.&nbsp; </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">=B7 It has moments of good =
acceleration, but only for a sec. </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">=B7 It feels like it will never build =
full power.&nbsp; But if I pump the gas peddle it feels like it will =
accelerate faster but nothing too quick.</FONT></P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">=B7 I still have good power at the top =
end but it takes me forever to get to that speed.</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">=B7 My check engine light is =
&quot;ON&quot;</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I have a 1992 3000GT -VR4,&nbsp;&nbsp; =
and no a Yugo has not beating me but I won</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D2 =
FACE=3D"Arial">'</FONT><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">t race anything =
right now :).</FONT>
</P>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">I was wondering if could be a timing =
problem because of the back firing?</FONT>
</P>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">Can anyone help with this =
problem?&nbsp; Can a diagnostic check find my problem? </FONT>
</P>
<BR>

<P><FONT SIZE=3D2 FACE=3D"Arial">David Moravek</FONT>
</P>

</BODY>
</HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 10:39:02 1999
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Okay, the key questions are:

1) What year and model is the Corvette tranny. I'm sure there are a few.
2) What modifications were required to accept it. I'm sure it just doesn't bolt in,
regardless of whether or not he retained the transfer case for AWD.
3)How well does it function/shift. Still seems too good to be true.
4) Who is this unnamed guy. Have him post so we can discus his brilliance.

Best

Darc



> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
>
> How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny?  Are you sure he
> didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD?  Or did he just somehow swap
> the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work.  I'm pretty sure
> there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop it in
> and have it work.
>



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 10:42:07 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:41:54 -0700
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David...

Admin notice...please turn off your HTML when sending to this list (use
Plain Text only). Thanks.

Now, timing is a possibility. Plug gap is also a potential culprit (how wide
are they gapped?). Did you replace the plug wires with the rebuild? Given
the heat in our engine compartments, the wires should be replaced if they're
old or mis-handled. It could also be a vacuum leak in any of the lines.

Yes, a good diagnostic check should identify problems related to A/F
mixture, timing, etc.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)

-----Original Message-----
From: Moravek, David [mailto:David.J.Moravek@wcom.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 10:06 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!
<snip>

Can anyone help with this problem?  Can a diagnostic check find my problem?


David Moravek
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 11:03:25 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:03:21 -0500
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>· It is VERY slow when I first drive off from a standstill.
>· It also has very bad hesitation when my foot is into it.
>· It has moments of good acceleration, but only for a sec.
>· It feels like it will never build full power.  But if I pump the
>  gas peddle it feels like it will accelerate faster but nothing too quick.
>· I still have good power at the top end but it takes me forever to get to
that speed.
>· My check engine light is "ON"
>I have a 1992 3000GT -VR4

First thing to do is to find out what code the ECU is storing.  That'll
likely give you a good direction to start looking.  Could be some sort of
injector problem or a timing problem, possibly a bad connection to the MAF
sensor.

>I was wondering if could be a timing problem because of the back firing?

You might get backfiring if the mixture is very rich also.  If the MAF is
sending funky readings to the ECU, and that's what the ECU is indicating
with the Check Engine light, then it goes into a "failsafe" mode and runs
the motor super-rich which could appear as the symptoms you describe.

>Can anyone help with this problem?  Can a diagnostic check find my problem?

Hope that maybe helped, but I'd find out what the code is first before
starting to tear into the problem very far.  You can construct a very simple
tool to read the codes from the computer and post the code to the list and
I'm sure someone can tell you what it means.

http://www.myzero.com/electrical/code.html

The codes on that page are for the DSM cars, but I believe the diagnostic
connector and the way it clocks out codes are the same at least for early
VR4's since the TMO Datalogger works on both.  If I'm wrong, I'm sure
someone will correct me.  ;-)

Hope that helps!

-Matt

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 11:09:19 1999
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David;

Did you replace the engine with a new engine, a rebuilt engine,
or a used engine?
How many miles are on it? (60K performed?)
Have you reset the ECU? (unhooked your battery positive for 15
mins)
Are all your vaccum hoses all connected and fault free? (No
cracks, splits, etc)
Is your MAS plugged in properly?( ie have you or your mechanic
recently had your air filter off)

Best

Darc

(Victoria, BC)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 11:30:02 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Yugo's are kicking my butt HELP!!!
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This needs to be taken care of, it's probably the source of your problem. Most
dealers will only charge for 1/2 - 1 hour labor to retrieve the code. Just tell
them you want to know what is setting the code, and you will fix it yourself.
This should cost about $30.


At 12:06 PM 5/18/99 , you wrote:

>
> · My check engine light is "ON"
>



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 11:30:08 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:34:26 -0700
Subject: Team3S: FREE MOD!!! was:1st Gen Hood scoops
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Instead of getting that $120 headlight intake that will allow only a
trivial amount of air in, take the WHOLE headlight cover off!!!!  I just
did it and can confirm that due to the wall around the headlight assembly
and the bump on the inside of the hood, there's only one finger of
clearance (sometimes less) for air to get thru.  but still, you'll be
flowing a LOT more air than that little headlight intake (which I
understand is not even readily available).  And you'll still have the use
of the headlight.  It'll be ugly but functional.

I believe this friday is test & tune at Atlanta Dragway!!!  anybody
coming???  I don't know yet if I'm gonna take the Supra and break 12s or
VR4 to try to get low 13s.   

The bonnet scops are nice too but to say it's overpriced is an
understatement.  That's why one of the guys here is working to design one
(hopefully).

On Tue, 18 May 1999 09:03:41 EDT TurboDrvn@aol.com writes:
> Okay guys,  since we are on the subject of hood scoops; I
>recall a >certain 3000GT website that included Japanese alterations; it
also had
>a >section on Kaze and Bozz Speed hood scoops.  The Kaze section had a
>"headlight intake" modification (1st. generation only - I am very
>interested >in this part - price: $120);  Also Bozz Speed makes "Bonnet
scoops"
>for our >1st. generation cars.
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 12:03:15 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
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> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------

I read the origional post and the guy said that the Getrag internals were replaced
with Corvette transmission internals thus leaving the Mitsu case.
My response now as then is --- ya right !!! I'll beleive that when I see it.


Jim Berry              ----  93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                        K&N  FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" -- Blitz SSBC
                            [soon ] --- GAB struts --  Stillen SS lines
                               GC/Eibach springs 550# F/350#R
                      G-tech     0-60 = 4.75 sec ---- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 13:51:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:49:36 EDT
Subject: Team3S: RE: YUGO's <~EXACT SAME ISSUE HERE
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Okay....everyone who has been reading my posts about my car......What was
said about the car in the yugo post...............is EXACTLY TO THE LETTER OF
EVERYTHING GOING WRONG WITH MY CAR SINCE I DID MY ENGINE SWAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I just never put it in words like that in one post.    My only computer codes
kept giving me EGR flow codes...  I've replaced alot of things in the EGR
system.  The code is gone....been gone for 500 miles.........but the car
still has the same problem.  The MAS seems to be ok too.    I'm still
searching for the problem.
.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 14:10:23 1999
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So, gutting the pre-cats didnt fix it????


At 03:49 PM 5/18/99 , you wrote:
>I'm still
>searching for the problem.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 14:41:56 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:21:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Controllers..which one?
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One quick comment,
are we all forgetting about HKS here?  In my opinion after working with
Greddy, Blitz, and APEX'i electronic boost controllers, I think the HKS
works great at a decent price(roughly 450 for the EVC4).  I would never
give up my EVC for anything as of now. The APEX'i interests me a little
but for a strait to the point, easy to program, easy to adjust boost
controller I think the EVC4 is damn hard to beat.
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 14:56:31 1999
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MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> Okay....everyone who has been reading my posts about my car......What was
> said about the car in the yugo post...............is EXACTLY TO THE LETTER OF
> EVERYTHING GOING WRONG WITH MY CAR SINCE I DID MY ENGINE SWAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> I just never put it in words like that in one post.    My only computer codes
> kept giving me EGR flow codes...  I've replaced alot of things in the EGR
> system.  The code is gone....been gone for 500 miles.........but the car
> still has the same problem.  The MAS seems to be ok too.    I'm still
> searching for the problem.
>

Hmmm...disconnected the battery to reset ECU, unplugged and replugged the MAS  just to
confirm a good connection while battery was disconnected,  checked it's wires for breaks
or shorts, checked all vaccum hoses?? Dunno...is the timing belt off or about slip big
time (60 k??)>> Did you get a used engine  advertised at 45k but really at 80k? Hard to
say...whatyaexperts say?

Best

Darc


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 15:03:40 1999
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Jim Berry wrote:

> > > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
> > > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---------
>
> I read the origional post and the guy said that the Getrag internals were replaced
> with Corvette transmission internals thus leaving the Mitsu case.
> My response now as then is --- ya right !!! I'll beleive that when I see it.
>

Mmmmm...I was tactfully trying to imply the same Jim, while leaving the door slightly ajar for that 1
in100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 chance that a brilliant lad somewhere (Alpha
Centuri maybe) had actually solved the Getrag Blues.

On another note, I hear the shop in San Diego (grapevine up here in Canada) has Getrag parts..or at
least receives them wrapped in German newspaper. Maybe the flood gates are about to be cracked open?

Best

Darc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 15:23:32 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Gutting the Pre-cats HELPED
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Gutting the pre-cats  did  help....i have alot more horsepower than
before....and the car goes a little faster...but I still have the same
problems......also........my acceleration seems to only work between 3500 and
5500 rpms......before 3500 rpm the  car  hesitates too much...and after 5500
rpm  I  don't have enough fuel.
If I drive slow....my car runs RICH  ....if I drive FAST  the car runs Lean 
is how it seems.  Plug  wires will  be my next investment.......
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 15:24:59 1999
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David_J or David Jimenez posted this on the Message Board a couple of weeks back.  Nothing further has been said about the deal, other than here in the Tech Forum.  I would say, that if nothing has been said by now, IT'S A DEAD ISSUE.  Time to move on to fixing our problems with KNOWN SOLUTIONS - like Kormex really machining sets of synchros and having them available in June.  My main surprise is that somebody like Kormex or MD Auto haven't latched onto this before - since they are in the rebuild business.  Otherwise, if the supply pipeline is really that closed, then where do they get their parts from.  I know that selling a $2,000 tranny is probably more profit for them than selling a set of synchro rings, so maybe their motive has been almost like Mitsu's - except giving us a much better price (sounds familiar doesn't it).
--

On Tue, 18 May 1999 10:37:01   wce wrote:
>Okay, the key questions are:
>
>1) What year and model is the Corvette tranny. I'm sure there are a few.
>2) What modifications were required to accept it. I'm sure it just doesn't bolt in,
>regardless of whether or not he retained the transfer case for AWD.
>3)How well does it function/shift. Still seems too good to be true.
>4) Who is this unnamed guy. Have him post so we can discus his brilliance.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>
>
>> > The guy kept his case and replaced the gretag gearbox with a corvette
>> > gearbox so he still has 4 wheel drive etc...
>>
>> How did he retain the AWD system with a Corvette tranny?  Are you sure he
>> didn't rotate the motor and just make it RWD?  Or did he just somehow swap
>> the actual input/output gears and somehow make it work.  I'm pretty sure
>> there was never an AWD Corvette manufactured so you couldn't just drop it in
>> and have it work.
>>
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 15:25:11 1999
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Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:24:46 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug  question
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I remember someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
tight....does that really effect the spark??  How  tight should I  get them
with a socket??  I have to torx wrench.  Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..           
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 16:29:45 1999
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From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
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I believe that Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
their trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
to handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is designed
for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.

Gwynne Spencer


At 11:59 AM 5/18/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:
>
>> << someone on the message boards was experimenting w/putting in a corvette 6
>>  spd. >>
>> I believe 6 speed vette trans is by Getrag;
>>  our car,  Supra, Corvette and
>> Camaro.
>> I'll keep list posted with my progress.
>>
>> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
>
>The Vette etc. trans will not work.
>The basic problem is that OUR engine is TRANSVERSE
>(mounted sideways) and has 3 (THREE) power output
>points coming out of the transmission:  2 for front wheels, and
>one coming out BACK toward engine going INTO transfer case which
>changes direction of shaft rotation from SIDEWAYS
>to LONGITUDINAL (going front-to-back) to get to
>rear differential.  Corvette, Supra etc are REARwheel
>drive and have very simple trans bolting to engine, and
>power output going from engine BACK to trans BACK to
>rear differential.
>
>I don't know what internal parts may be interchangeable,
>if any.  I have been unable to get hold of my Getrag
>contacts for over a month ++...
>Of interest:  Getrag is making the trans for an upcoming
>Audi AWD of about 350hp, I wonder what trans THAT
>uses, if it is heavier duty than ours etc.
>Getrag calls our 5-speeds "440" transaxles; the
>6-speeds are called "446" transaxles in their company's
>naming system.
>
>Jack Tertadian
>
>PS  Contact Joe Kou for Ground Control group purchase, or
>goto website http://www.ground-control.com
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 17:52:15 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plug  question
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There may be a spark plug torque specification in the manual, but I've never
used a torque wrench to install spark plugs before. If I was to guess how
much torque I apply, my guess is that it's roughly 30 ft. lbs.

More important (IMO)...what prompted you to buy the +4 plugs? What gap did
they come with? The general consensus is that NGK platinums (gapped tighter
than factory specs) are the only ones that work well on our cars (refer to
the archives for this thread). Did you have problems before you switched to
the +4 plugs?

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 3:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug question


I remember someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
tight....does that really effect the spark??  How  tight should I  get them
with a socket??  I have to torx wrench.  Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..  
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 18:26:13 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:29:36 -0700
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In theory, if you align the car at a given ride heiht, adjust it on eway or
the other, then adjust it back, the alignement SHOULD be the way it was
before.

The trick is getting it back to precisely the same place.

In your case I highly recommend that a) you accept that camber and toe
adjustments are as critical as ride height especially for track use b) you
invest a bit in camber and alignment goodies that you can haul around and
use trackside very easily once you get the hang of it -- it isn't rocket
science.  Ask the GC people about these tools and they can direct you to a
couple of manufacturers.  Probably not what you wanted to hear but for a few
hundred more you'll be in much better shape.

That being said, I believe the first paragraph holds true.

Note that tire wear will be different on the track vs street (as you are
aware) and that handling at street height will be affected somewhat by the
different wear induced at the track height and track conditions.

Shouldn't be a big deal though.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Let me try the open track question again....
>
> I asked:
>
> > I'm ordering a set so I can drive a perfectly aligned, normal
> ride height
> >> car to an open track event.  When I arrive, I'll jack it up, lower the
> car, increase the
> >> camber,  adjust out the high speed push, and just have a
> better handling
> car. When I'm all
> >> finished at the event, I intend to jack it up, adjust back to
> >> stock height, and drive home with the car perfectly aligned once again.
> Anybody see a problem with this?
>
> Barry said:
> >>
> >Nope.  That'll work just great.  Check the price on their camber
> kit.  It is
> >affordable.
> >
> Oops, I  mis-spoke. I don't wanna be adjusting camber.
>
> What I REALLY want to do is go to the track with a perfectly aligned car,
> jack it up, lower it an inch or so, run all weekend, jack it up, raise it
> back up to the proper street height (by counting threads or whatever), and
> then drive it home as a perfectly aligned car.
>
> I don't want to have to check corner weights or set the camber
> every time I
> do this.
>
> As I understand it, when you lower the car, the camber automatically
> increases, which is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back to street
> height, the camber automatically adjusts itself back to being perfect
> again. N'est ce pas?
>
> I may have to fiddle with ride heights at the first coupla track events to
> find the ride height settings that eliminate push, but once that's
> accomplished (and the settings noted), I forsee being finished
> with further
> fiddling, Fred.
>
> I am envisioning a SIMPLE trackside procedure, not a major
> alignment project.
>
> NOW does anyone see a problem with this?
>
> If it ain't as easy as I hope, I may have to start trailering to and from
> events. It's tough enough running the Old Poop Brake Shop all weekend, I
> don't need to open a front end shop too. Open Track events are supposed to
> be FUN.
> >
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 21:25:59 1999
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:27:43 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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There is NO kit. I have outlined the procedure before and sent a
drawing to some for the rear. It is tricky but can be done.

Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 21:54:00 1999
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From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Organization: Very little ... as always
To: TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:53:40 -0400
Subject: Re: Team3S: (Fwd) Water Injection...
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He intends to... as far as his other notes said.

Bill

On 18 May 99, at 2:34, TrAmSoOtRu@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/17/99 10:07:10 PM Central Daylight Time,
> millebi@kw.igs.net writes:
>
> << Doug is thinking about building a water injection system for < $300? (I
> think). He has the capability and has made one work in the past, he is just modifying
>  his old design to  work for a 3S.
>
>  Bill >>
>
> Will he be selling these?

Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue May 18 22:31:20 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ground Control Group Purchase! -Reply
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:34:51 -0700
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You mean no kit for the rear, right?  If so then agreed, noone is making
one, at least not any of the top companies (TEIN, Cusco, HKS, GC etc.).
TEIN does make an upper pillow ball mount for the rear of our cars but it is
non-adjustable since that feature requires mods to the lower suspension
parts as well.

There are a number of kits for front camber adjustment.  There are offerings
from GC, Cusco (HKS is the same kit) and TEIN.  They include upper pillow
mounts as well.  The GC kit is superior in that it also uses a special
bushing which drastically reduces wear and tear on the pillow ball mount.
It is however a universal fitment kit which uses four mounting hoels rather
than the three the stock upper plate uses.  Some minor fabrication is
required.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> There is NO kit. I have outlined the procedure before and sent a
> drawing to some for the rear. It is tricky but can be done.
>
> Ron

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 03:48:24 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 2 Quick Questions
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 06:42:30 -0400
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1. Whats so good about the EVC I.  I have the chance to get one but I
am undecided if it is better then the DSBC or EVC IV.
2. What MODIFICATION must be done to the HKS Sequential Blow Off valve
for it to fit a 94+.  I have never installed on and was curious if this is
hard or very time consuming.  Any info very much appreciated.
Thanks
Joshua
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 04:03:17 1999
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From: Roger Crawford <rcrawford@dbp-inc.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
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Hmm, that would mean the 555 in my 4 cyl turbo Shelby is stronger than the
trans in my VR-4..

I think that numbering hypothesis is flawed :)

Regards,
Roger Crawford
94 Black VR-4
3SI #241



-----Original Message-----
From: Gwynne W. Spencer [mailto:gwynnes@isni.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:37 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.


I believe that Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
their trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
to handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is designed
for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.

Gwynne Spencer

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 06:11:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:18:16 -0400
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plug  question
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30 ft. lbs - OUCH. I have owned many cars with aluminum heads and have
never seen a factory torque value that high. Most are in the 15 to 20 lb
range. For instance BMW  cars up through 1992 call for 15 to 22.

I would be VERY worried about stripped threads at 30.

Gwynne Spencer

At 05:52 PM 5/18/99 -0700, you wrote:
>There may be a spark plug torque specification in the manual, but I've never
>used a torque wrench to install spark plugs before. If I was to guess how
>much torque I apply, my guess is that it's roughly 30 ft. lbs.
>
>More important (IMO)...what prompted you to buy the +4 plugs? What gap did
>they come with? The general consensus is that NGK platinums (gapped tighter
>than factory specs) are the only ones that work well on our cars (refer to
>the archives for this thread). Did you have problems before you switched to
>the +4 plugs?
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 3:25 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug question
>
>
>I remember someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
>tight....does that really effect the spark??  How  tight should I  get them
>with a socket??  I have to torx wrench.  Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
>plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..  
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 06:15:36 1999
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MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:

> Gutting the pre-cats  did  help....i have alot more horsepower than
> before....and the car goes a little faster...but I still have the same
> problems......also........my acceleration seems to only work between 3500 and
> 5500 rpms......before 3500 rpm the  car  hesitates too much...and after 5500
> rpm  I  don't have enough fuel.
> If I drive slow....my car runs RICH  ....if I drive FAST  the car runs Lean
> is how it seems.  Plug  wires will  be my next investment.......
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

If you had a VPC this would be easy, it would be a hole/leak in the hose going to
the VPC pressure sensor under the hood.
Did you gut main cat?
If engine was gone thru, a cam (maybe even only ONE of the 4) that was off by a tooth
of the camgear on the belt could do this too, and make backfires.
Jack T.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 06:21:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:28:34 -0400
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From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark Plug  question
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Further to my previous note re spark plug torque - the NGK Master Catalog says:

    Aluminum head       Cast iron head

For 14 mm plugs W/ flat seat 18 - 21.6 lb ft 18 - 25.3   
For 14 mm plugs W/ taper seat 7.2 - 14.5  " 10.8 - 18

Gwynne Spencer




30 ft. lbs - OUCH. I have owned many cars with aluminum heads and have
never seen a factory torque value that high. Most are in the 15 to 20 lb
range. For instance BMW  cars up through 1992 call for 15 to 22.

I would be VERY worried about stripped threads at 30.

Gwynne Spencer

At 05:52 PM 5/18/99 -0700, you wrote:
>There may be a spark plug torque specification in the manual, but I've never
>used a torque wrench to install spark plugs before. If I was to guess how
>much torque I apply, my guess is that it's roughly 30 ft. lbs.
>
>More important (IMO)...what prompted you to buy the +4 plugs? What gap did
>they come with? The general consensus is that NGK platinums (gapped tighter
>than factory specs) are the only ones that work well on our cars (refer to
>the archives for this thread). Did you have problems before you switched to
>the +4 plugs?
>
>Looking forward...Chris
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: MitsuVR41@aol.com [mailto:MitsuVR41@aol.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 3:25 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: Spark Plug question
>
>
>I remember someone mentioning their sparks plugs were torqued to
>tight....does that really effect the spark??  How  tight should I  get them
>with a socket??  I have to torx wrench.  Also...I'm using BOSCH Platinum +4
>plugs with 4 Pre-gapped tips.....they are not re-gap-able..  
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 06:27:33 1999
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Merritt wrote:

> >  can drive perfectly aligned, normal ride height
> >> car to track.  I'll jack it up, lower car.
> >> When finished event, I  jack it up, adjust back to
> >> stock height,  drive home with car perfectly aligned again.
> >> Anybody see a problem with this?

> by counting threads
>  lower the car, camber automatically
> increases, is good for on-track. Then, when ya put it back to street
> height, camber adjusts itself back to being perfect again.

No, I think this is a fine idea.
If you count threads, and you haven't literally BENT your suspension arms
or tie rods etc, and you mechanically put the position back where it was pre-event,
then the alignment WILL return to where you had it BEFORE.

There is no "mysterious monkey-motion looseness" that will screw it up, as
the ONLY thing you adjusted is the strut's spring perch height.  You did
NOT touch the camber adjust cams, they are as tight as ever and set
EXACTLY where you had them BEFORE.
Unless you postulate some DAMAGE=BENDING of the suspension from
the track event, it WILL return exactly to spec.
If you think it WILL damage/bend/misalign, then changing the spring
height will NOT STOP THAT, it would have happened anyway, and the
ride height adjust STILL ends up a zero-sum once adjusted back to stock...
within miniscule statistical variances/normal wear and tear changes
that would have ocurred with OR WITHOUT adjusting spring height collar!

Jack Tertadian

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 06:34:21 1999
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:41:25 -0400
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
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It may be a "hypothesis" appied to Stealth/Mitsu, but all the trannies used
by BMW have the tranny manufacturer rating in newton meters in the model
designation. (model as named by the manufacturer)

Also, often a choice of tranny is made for reasons other than torque
rating. For instance, if the tranny is used in other models and the cost of
a new part number in the inventory would exceed the saving on a lighter
unit - or layout / dimensios are only available in that rating - or gear
ratio choices are only available in that particular unit - or any
combination of these factors.

Gwynne Spencer

At 07:04 AM 5/19/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hmm, that would mean the 555 in my 4 cyl turbo Shelby is stronger than the
>trans in my VR-4..
>
>I think that numbering hypothesis is flawed :)
>
>Regards,
>Roger Crawford
>94 Black VR-4
>3SI #241
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gwynne W. Spencer [mailto:gwynnes@isni.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:37 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
>
>I believe that Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
>their trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
>to handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is designed
>for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.
>
>Gwynne Spencer
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 06:37:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:44:15 -0400
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From: "Gwynne W. Spencer" <gwynnes@isni.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
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I forgot to mention one other critical factor - the fewer the number of
cylinders, the higher the torque rating has to be, as the gears are
subjected to impulse loads and 4 cylinder engines are typically much
rougher in this respect - diesels are even worse.

Gwynne Spencer



It may be a "hypothesis" appied to Stealth/Mitsu, but all the trannies used
by BMW have the tranny manufacturer rating in newton meters in the model
designation. (model as named by the manufacturer)

Also, often a choice of tranny is made for reasons other than torque
rating. For instance, if the tranny is used in other models and the cost of
a new part number in the inventory would exceed the saving on a lighter
unit - or layout / dimensios are only available in that rating - or gear
ratio choices are only available in that particular unit - or any
combination of these factors.

Gwynne Spencer

At 07:04 AM 5/19/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hmm, that would mean the 555 in my 4 cyl turbo Shelby is stronger than the
>trans in my VR-4..
>
>I think that numbering hypothesis is flawed :)
>
>Regards,
>Roger Crawford
>94 Black VR-4
>3SI #241
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gwynne W. Spencer [mailto:gwynnes@isni.net]
>Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 7:37 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: transmission questions.
>
>
>I believe that Getrag (and ZF and other Euro transmission builders) number
>their trannies according to the Newton Meters of Torque they are designed
>to handle. If this is the case here, 446 would indicate that it is designed
>for a max of about 330 lb-ft of torque.
>
>Gwynne Spencer
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 07:04:49 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Adjusting up and down redux
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>Unless you postulate some DAMAGE=BENDING of the suspension from
>the track event, it WILL return exactly to spec.

Thanks, Jack. That's what I wanted to hear.

Rich
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 08:44:15 1999
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From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 100% IDC
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 08:42:52 -0700
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I've been noticing that at 1bar of boost on my 93 I'm pegging the IDC at
100. I've tried lowering the boost on my AVC-R to .80 and still hit my head
on the 100 mark. Why is this happening? Does anyone else experience this? I
don't like the idea of working the injectors so hard.

Thanks.

Dave

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed May 19 09:41:48 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Grinding noise when cornering????
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 12:40:34 -0400
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt

I have a grinding noise when I corner. Seems like it could be a wheel
bearing or maybe a CV joint. Do our cars have CV joints? ( I am assuming
they do ) I have not heard alot of discussion about CV joint wearing out,
is this common? I originally though the noise was just the tires but it
seems to be louder when I corner, then it quiets up when I straighten out.
Any help would be appreciated.


Kevin Schappell
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