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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 08:21:46
1999
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From:
"Gendron, Curt" <
Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To:
"
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: List Question
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:21:01 -0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
John,
I'm not sure if your
response is an example or if this is an actual problem
you are having.
You can check out my "Wheels" webpage that acutally has
most of the
differnent rim styles found on the 3/S cars and use that as a
reference to
what you are talking about. Check it out at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/wheels.htmllater,
Curt
G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/-----------------------------------------------
So,
in other words, if I want a clarification of exactly what vintage the
Mitsubisihi chrome wheels I have on my 3000 are, (I'm getting
different
stories from the non-Mitsubishi dealer I bought my '95 from,
and the local
Mitsubishi dealer where I get the car serviced), I could
attach a jpeg file
to email to the list, get an identification, then I would
know how to
pursue the issue of getting the chrome plating that is
flaking off,
fixed??? (How's that for a run-on sentence?)
Advice
please?
TIA,
John
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 08:24:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 10:35:16
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comFrom:
Wayne <
wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Aftermarket water temp gauge
In-Reply-To: <
000e01be63aa$0f5b89c0$0500a8c0@beast.kingdom.com>
References:
<06ea01be63a4$72565740$25010bce@user>
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I'm not sure about the 92+ models, but
the 91 uses a seperate sending unit
for the gage, as do a lot of other
Mitsu's. It is located just under the
upper radiator hose. There are three
connectors next to each other, the one
for the gage is the forwardmost
connector, with only one wire.
I know if you get an Autometer mechanical
gage, it will come with several
adaptors, one of them will fit into the
factory sending unit's hole.
(remember to drain the coolant before removing
the sender)
240F may not be enough if you are using a stock thermostat
and radiator, as
"normal" operating temp's are in the area of
220-230F. If racing, the
temp's may get to 250F.
Wayne
At 11:09
PM 2/28/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I am assuming it uses the same sensor on the
block to also display the
water temperature
>on the gauge since the
gauge is driven from the ECU.
>-----Original
Message-----
>
>Hoping that someone has experience in this
area!
>I'm curious if the water temp is used for anything other than
the gauge, if
>so this may complicate replacement.
>
>Also,
would it be sufficient to get a gauge with an upper limit of
240F?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 10:59:12 1999
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Date:
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From: Matthews <
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Mods (N/A)
References: <
36D7D05D.5122159F@e-z.net> <
36D8FFFF.6450BAD2@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Michael Booker wrote:
>
> I have similar mods on my 93 R/T, (K&N, Custom, mufflerless
exhaust)
> And i can definately say that the low end torque has been so
decreased
> that even with a powerbreak launch, the tires don't spin at
all, but
> holding the throttle open, i get a big, noticable kick in the
pants
> acceleration boost from 3000 RPM-to the redline. I also get much
better
> gas mileage and my system, with no mufflers, is really loud,
borderline
> illegal, but it sounds good and is throaty enough so it
doesn't sound
> like a lawnmower.
>
> Matt
I wonder if
it would help to put a TT exhaust on the car and run it in
Tour mode to help
create back pressure at low RPMs? The active exhaust
system
automatically switches to Sport mode above 3500 RPMs, right about
where you
say the freer flowing exhaust and intake begin to improve
performance.
Anyone tried this? Thanx...
-Jim
--
Jim Matthews -
Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 11:10:59 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods (N/A)
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 13:10:09 -0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
> I wonder if it would help to put a
TT exhaust on the car and run it in
> Tour mode to help create back
pressure at low RPMs? The active exhaust
> system automatically
switches to Sport mode above 3500 RPMs, right about
> where you say the
freer flowing exhaust and intake begin to improve
> performance.
Anyone tried this? Thanx...
how exactly is the exhaust unit
controlled? is it a seperate control unit
entity that monitors RPM, or is it
tied into the ECU somehow? i would think
the former would be
preffered.
omar
92 r/t
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web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 11:46:00 1999
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Irving & Ana Jimenez. Tried to
e-mail direct. Bounced. Is this the IMP
located in Clifton NJ ? If not,
please supply address and phone #
Thanks Dave 93 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 12:03:25 1999
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Does anyone know what the flow and
cooling rate of the stock intercoolers are
?
Trying to justify upgrade and
what it will do for me bottom line.
Dave 93 VR4 stock turbo's , Blitz
DSBC 1.05 bars.
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 14:51:05 1999
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 17:01:47
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comFrom:
Wayne <
wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Trust exhaust dillema
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Hey guys and girls,
I recently
aquired a trust cat-back system for a TT 3/s. I dont see how
this will fit on
my car. The flange that bolts to the catalyst doesn't have
the same shape as
the factoy gasket. Has anybody had a similar problem?
Maybe i'm missing a
part to the trust system? I have two pieces, are there
supposed to be three?
Thanks.....
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 15:01:53 1999
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comFrom:
Wayne <
wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Trust exhaust Boo-Boo
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Sorry everyone,
I just realized i was
looking at the wrong flange!! How ignorant of
me......I'm now in the process
of removing a couple notches from my
knowlege
belt......
Wayne
(future catless, trust exhaust junckie)
For
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 15:11:59 1999
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From:
"Trent" <
rtrent@nlci.com>
To: "3000/Stealth
Technical List" <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Intake air temp
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 18:16:12 -0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
All,
I just recieved a $50.00 air
temp. meter that includes sending unit from
summit. On looking for a
good place to install it, I started eyeing the
tapped hole I put in my intake
plenum that is currently occupied by my boost
gage line, (its the same tap
size). My question is, is there a good place
to tee in the boost gage
line that won't effect the device that also uses
the line, (i.e. my AVC-R
boost controller), and also provide fairly
accurate
boost.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT/13g/AVC/AFC/ABC/FCC/FDA/etc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 16:59:05 1999
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <
fein@strategy.com>
To: "
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: HKS EVCIV and EVCIII Questions
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 19:58:59
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I've got the Apex'i Twin-Chamber BOV
in my '94.
It would easily be my first choice for an external-venting BOV
if it wasn't
for one small problem: Its stock mounting position interferes
with the shift
linkage on the 6-spd transmission, so it requires some
modification to mount
in the '94+ cars.
Other than that drawback, it
is a nice, well-constructed unit, with a
tunable blow-off note (i.e you can
change teh size of the outer opening ring
to change the pitch and volume of
the sound).
Unfortunately, it is victim to the stumbling problems
associated with all
external-venting BOVs, so if I had to do it again, I'd
probably set up a
Greddy Type-S to vent back into the stock
location.
-Ed
-----Original
Message-----
From: Meyer [
mailto:meyer2@erols.com]
Sent: Sunday,
February 28, 1999 2:54 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: HKS EVCIV and EVCIII Questions
Brent,
We are using the
EVC IV with excellent accuracy and no spikes. In response
to your BOV
question we are using the HKS which comes preset from the
factory and works
great. I would also like to make the group aware that
Apex~i sells a BOV with
a 3S kit for $50 less than HKS and Blitz but I don't
know anyone who has
tried it. If any one wants to we have them for $250.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.comFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 17:48:26 1999
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From:
"james berry" <
fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 17:37:04
-0700
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went to change the fluid in the
transaxle of my 93 stealth TT and was
dismayed to find the drain plug was
stripped. It would spin in both
directions but wouldn't tighten or loosen
:-( ---luckily it doesn't leak
either :-)
Any ideas out there? I've
thought of drilling and tapping a hole in the plug
and using the new hole as
a drain or using a slide hammer to pull the plug
and then retapping the hole.
hoping for a better plan
!!
Jim Berry 93 stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 17:53:23 1999
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To:
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Curt.Gendron@westgroup.comMime-Version:
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In a message dated 3/1/99 10:23:48 AM
Central Standard Time,
Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com
writes:
<<
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/wheels.html
>>
Curt ---
THANK YOU !!!!!!
My wheels are the
97-99 3000GT SL 17"
You've answered the question -- Thanks!
Now I
need to figure out what to do about the
chrome falling off ---
Thanks
to everyone for helping with this, for putting
up with my dumb questions
----
And anyone who hasn't done so, oughta check out
Curt's sight for
general interest purposes ---
Now, if you thought I was a pain in the a**
about
the wheels, just wait until I get going with some of
the
technical stuff <<GG>>
John
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 18:23:24 1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
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Try locking a set of the lock jaw pliers
on it and then hang a weight on the
pliers. Maybe as you unscrew it will grab
a bit & screw out. If not working,
try a hub puller type of tool and turn
slowly. The slap hammer will kill it
for sure. I'd like to say torch heat it
but a fire is possible.
Arty
<< ubj: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date: 3/1/99 8:51:10 PM Eastern Standard Time
From:
fastmax@home.com (james berry)
Sender:
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stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comTo:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(team 3si)
went to change the fluid in the transaxle of my 93 stealth TT
and was
dismayed to find the drain plug was stripped. It would spin in
both
directions but wouldn't tighten or loosen :-( ---luckily it
doesn't leak
either :-)
Any ideas out there? I've thought of drilling and
tapping a hole in the plug
and using the new hole as a drain or using a slide
hammer to pull the plug
and then retapping the hole. hoping for a better plan
!!
Jim Berry >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 18:36:22 1999
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1999 20:26:22 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:39:48
-0600
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Hrmm try using a file and making new
corners for the plug.
If that does not work, you might find someone who
can weld another drain
plug to the one in there so you can pull it
out.
Maybe weld a nut on the end of the plug.
> Brad
Member
of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my home page:
http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell>
E-Mail:
bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
-----Original Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of
Aso8@aol.comSent: Monday,
March 01, 1999 8:18 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comCc:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: transaxle
woes !!!
Try locking a set of the lock jaw pliers on it and then hang a
weight on the
pliers. Maybe as you unscrew it will grab a bit & screw
out. If not working,
try a hub puller type of tool and turn slowly. The slap
hammer will kill it
for sure. I'd like to say torch heat it but a fire is
possible.
Arty
<< ubj: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date:
3/1/99 8:51:10 PM Eastern Standard Time
From:
fastmax@home.com (james berry)
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comReply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comTo:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(team 3si)
went to change the fluid in the transaxle of my 93 stealth TT
and was
dismayed to find the drain plug was stripped. It would spin in
both
directions but wouldn't tighten or loosen :-( ---luckily it
doesn't leak
either :-)
Any ideas out there? I've thought of drilling and
tapping a hole in the
plug
and using the new hole as a drain or using a
slide hammer to pull the plug
and then retapping the hole. hoping for a
better plan
!!
Jim Berry >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 18:44:22 1999
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From:
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fastmax@home.com>
To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 18:33:00
-0700
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---!!!
>Hrmm try using
a file and making new corners for the plug.
>
>If that does not
work, you might find someone who can weld another drain
>plug to the one
in there so you can pull it out.
>
>Maybe weld a nut on the end of
the plug.
>
The head of the drain plug is in good shape ---
someone overtightened the
plug and stripped the threads
I assume the
aluminum transaxle is stripped.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1 18:56:28 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <
bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:00:06
-0600
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stealth-3000gt
OH! That is bad. Maybe a Heli Coil and rethread
it.
Not the best fix in the world, but some companies make a expanding
rubber
plug. This should fix your problem. Just have to replace the plug
every time
you change the transaxle oil. Cost ~4-5.00 at any parts
store.
This thing looks like a rubber freeze plug, tighten the nut on the
end and
the rubber expands.
> Brad
Member of ESSC since
1999>
> Check out my home page:
http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
-----Original Message-----
The head of the
drain plug is in good shape --- someone overtightened the
plug and stripped
the threads
I assume the aluminum transaxle is stripped.
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: Brian Danley
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Car Report
:-((
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:08:03 -0500
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Brian, please share the data
loggings with us. Especially a whole 1/4 mile run
logging with all the infos
would be great. Also you have different injectors in
it, haven't you ? Would
be good to find out what are the differences on your car
compared to others
:)
[Brian Danley] I'm going to try to use it this weekend. I
post my results.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
19:22:31 1999
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: boost spikes ??
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:12:54
-0500
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> PS:
> Maybe this is why Roger had
to rebuild his engine 1.34bar =19.69 psi
> (getting close to the 20 psi
....;)
> I know this wasn't the reason ... just giving you a hard time
Roger
No, THIS WAS the reason for sure ! The huge
overboostings and my ignorance
afterwards were responsible for the rebuild :(
I already had the oil steam
comming out from the BOV before I made the hard
high-speed runs on the
autobahn.
The broken rings let more pressure into
the crankcase and pressed the oil
into
the intake, causing more leaner
situation causing much earlier detonations.
Well, I hope that the data logger
will maybe work on my car.
[Brian Danley] As long as the wiring harness
is the same it should work.
When you find out what your looks compare
it to the US version. I think
it has 14 pins .. 10 on the top and four
on this bottom side.
kinda like this.... |
| | | | | | | |
|
| | |
|
It might have less pins .... it's the code
harness
Brian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
19:46:36 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Goodridge brake line kit
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:43:46
-0600
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What is included in this kit for the turbo cars???
#308865
I just received mine. It includes 8 brake lines
and nothing more. The =
package leads one to believe there should be
crush washers included. =
According to the vendor these come without
any hardware. As I have had =
a few not so good conversations with them
lately I'm not sure they're =
giving me the truth. Anyone know what
comes in these kits?
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What is
included in this kit for the =
turbo=20
cars???
#308865</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I just received mine. It =
includes 8
brake=20
lines and nothing more. The package leads one to believe
there =
should be=20
crush washers included. According to the
vendor these come without =
any=20
hardware. As I have had a few
not so good conversations with them =
lately=20
I'm not sure they're
giving me the truth. Anyone know what comes =
in
these=20
kits?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'95 R/T
=
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AVCR solenoid location
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:48:08
-0600
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Forgive me for bringing this up as it has been
discussed in the past.
Has anyone successfully mounted the solenoid for the
AVCR so that you =
can't hear it? (In a 3S car...)
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Forgive
me for bringing this up as =
it has been=20
discussed in the
past.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Has anyone successfully mounted the =
solenoid
for=20
the AVCR so that you can't hear it? (In a 3S
car...)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'95 R/T
=
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVCR solenoid location
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:30:33
-0700
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Yes. I mounted mine securely using sheet metal
screws to the flattest part
of the inner fender well (near the air cleaner)
on three thin layers of
compressed foam rubber. When compressed I'd
guess that the pad is between
1/16" and 1/8" thick.
It is absolutely silent as far as I or anyone else I've
had try to hear it
can tell. It cannot be heard from within the cabin
in the driver's seat,
nor with the windows open and a passenger listening for
the "legendary"
ticking, nor when going through an underpass tunnel
or walls and the like.
I have even driven while under boost with someone on
the sidelines to see if
they could hear any ticking from outside. All
they report hearing is the
exhaust, the sucking of the intake through the K
& N, whine of the 15Gs and
the BOV. Before the tranny was fixed
there'd be the odd crunch too ;)
I have first hand experience with two other AVC-R
installations in non-3S
cars and they too are also dead quiet. When
mounted correctly they are no
louder than any other solenoid.
It seems that people complain only about the Apexi
solenoid being noisy. I
do not believe it unique to the Apexi nor
noiser than any other solenoid of
this type. I have heard other
non-Apexi solenoids that tick as well. I
believe it comes down to how
and where it is mounted.
Regards,
Barry
-----Original Message-----
Forgive me for bringing this up as it has been
discussed in the past.
Has anyone successfully mounted the solenoid for the
AVCR so that you can't
hear it? (In a 3S car...)
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
21:04:25 1999
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Team3S: Show quality High Polished Plenum
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Selling a Very High "Show Quality" Plenum
with a true Mirror finish.
Will sell for $600.00 with core exchange.
Arty
91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aftermarket water temp gauge
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999 23:26:08
-0600
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Thanks Wayne and Barry for posting about the
temperature sending unit.
I took a quick look tonight looking for the water temp
sender. Without
removing I/C hosing I can't really see much. Does
anyone know specifically
on the second gen. how the temp sender is used and
where it is located. I
am planning to hook up an Autometer mechanical
gauge if at all possible.
Also, any additional comments about the operating
temperature? Should I
avoid a gauge that is limited to
240?
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
Ps. Purposely
including all of previous posts as these are releveant in
their
entirety.
>I'm not sure about the 92+ models, but the 91 uses
a seperate sending unit
>for the gage, as do a lot of other Mitsu's. It is
located just under the
>upper radiator hose. There are three connectors
next to each other, the one
>for the gage is the forwardmost connector,
with only one wire.
>
>I know if you get an Autometer mechanical
gage, it will come with several
>adaptors, one of them will fit into the
factory sending unit's hole.
>(remember to drain the coolant before
removing the sender)
>
>240F may not be enough if you are using a
stock thermostat and radiator, as
>"normal" operating temp's are
in the area of 220-230F. If racing, the
>temp's may get to
250F.
>
>Wayne
>
>At 11:09 PM 2/28/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>>I am assuming it uses the same sensor on the block to also
display the
>water temperature
>>on the gauge since the gauge is
driven from the ECU.
>
>>-----Original
Message-----
>>
>>Hoping that someone has experience in this
area!
>
>>I'm curious if the water temp is used for anything
other than the gauge,
if
>>so this may complicate
replacement.
>>
>>Also, would it be sufficient to get a gauge
with an upper limit of 240F?
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Aftermarket oil pressure gauge - what range
Date: Mon, 1 Mar 1999
23:31:45 -0600
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I'm reposting this message - any info would be greatly
appreciated. To =
return the favor I'll share with you all how to
replace the center gauge =
assembly. (If I can get the gauges hooked up
:)
Thanks,
Oskar
------
Hoping that someone has
experience in this area too!
=20
While having the dash removed I might as
well replace the oil pressure =
gauge also. Can the sender be replaced
on the second gen.. turbo engine =
without causing a problem with the ECM, or
anything else for that =
matter? If so, can I go either mechanical or
electrical? What type of =
sender is used in this car? =20
=20
Is
the oil pressure used for anything other than the gauge, if so this =
may
complicate replacement.
=20
Also, what kind of oil pressure have been
noted on these cars. Would a =
0-100 PSI gauge suffice? My dealer
says the cars run around 60 PSI but =
I thought I better check in with
some more experienced souls.
=20
Thanks for any help,
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
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<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm reposting this
message - any info would be =
greatly=20
appreciated. To return
the favor I'll share with you all how to =
replace=20
the center gauge
assembly. (If I can get the gauges hooked
up=20
:)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2><BR>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2>Oskar<BR>------</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Hoping that someone has experience in this
area=20
too!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>While having the dash removed I =
might as
well=20
replace the oil pressure gauge also</FONT><FONT
size=3D2>. Can the =
sender be=20
replaced on the second
gen.. turbo engine without causing a problem with =
the=20
ECM, or
anything else for that matter? If so, can I go either
=
mechanical=20
or electrical? What type of sender is used in
this car? =20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Is the oil pressure used for anything other than the =
gauge,
if=20
so this may complicate
replacement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Also, what kind of oil pressure have been noted on
=
these=20
cars. Would a 0-100 PSI gauge suffice? My
dealer says the =
cars run=20
around 60 PSI but I thought I
better check in with some more
=
experienced=20
souls.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Thanks for any help,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>'95 R/T
=
TT</FONT></DIV></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 1
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Manifold changes between 91 & 92?
References: <29e92821.36d986cd@aol.com> <36D996F4.58414056@swissonline.ch>
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> Yes, there where changes. But my information
only says that the style of the
> intake runners changed. This is somewhat
visible as the intake part look like it
> has groves in the runners. I've
only seen this on pictures but not in real.
> Unfortunately, my manual
only starts at 1993 and I cannot recheck this.
>
> Regards,
>
Roger
>
The '91 headers (made by IMP) also are not exchangable
between the '91 and the '92
Steath TT. Mine missed by over
2"!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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Re: Team3S: AVCR solenoid location
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<012f01be645f$7d374f00$50020bce@user>
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> Oskar wrote:
>
> Has anyone
successfully mounted the solenoid for the AVCR so that you
> can't hear
it? (In a 3S car...)
I didn't want to make the hose long enough to reach to
the fender well
so when I removed it from the original position on the
firewall (where
it sounded like a machine gun but improved my gas mileage
since I would
tend to stay out of the boost to shut it up!) I just zip-tied
it to the
windshield washer resevoir. Pretty professional, huh?
:-) Can't hear
it, though...
When I get around to it I plan to remount it in the
original firewall
location with a foam barrier and soft rubber
screws.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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Date:
Tue, 02 Mar 1999 21:08:17 +1100
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Clear coat pealing on 1/4 panel
References: <01BE6428.469FCDA0@ts007d34.dal-tx.concentric.net>
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I've just had to replace the glass quarter panel next
to the passengers
window ( the panel with "twin turbo" written on
it ) on my VR4 after the
clear coat pealed off. I tried to have it repaired
but apparently it
cant be fixed.
I now notice the drivers side is doing
the same . Is there anyway to
stop this ( the drivers side has pealed off
about the size of a thumb
nail ) before the whole thing peals off? Is this a
common problem?
BTW, I took a mates Nissan GTR 33 VSPEC (stock) for a
drive the other
day & although my car runs a only a few pound extra boost
than stock &
no other mods, for raw power it absolutely blows the GTR
away. I
couldn't believe the
difference.
Regards
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
06:24:03 1999
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Date: Tue, 02 Mar 1999 08:34:43
-0600
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Goodridge brake line kit
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That should be all you need. The connections are flared
so you don't need any
type of gasket or seal. You reuse the clips and
brackets.....
Wayne
At 09:43 PM 3/1/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
> It includes 8 brake lines and nothing
more. The package leads one to believe
> there should be crush
washers included. Anyone know what comes in these kits?
>
>
Thanks,
> Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
--=====================_1114811==_.ALT
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<html>
That should be all you need. The
connections are flared so you don't need
any type of gasket or seal. You
reuse the clips and
brackets.....<br>
<br>
Wayne<br>
<br>
At
09:43 PM 3/1/99 -0600, you wrote: <br>
<blockquote type=cite
cite> <br>
<font size=2>It includes 8 brake lines and
nothing more. The
package leads one to believe there should be
crush washers included.
Anyone know what comes in these
kits?</font><br>
<br>
<font
size=2>Thanks,</font><br>
Oskar<br>
'95 R/T
TT</blockquote><br>
</html>
--=====================_1114811==_.ALT--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
07:15:04 1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: sunroof/sunshade
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 07:03:35
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
93 stealth TT --- In my owners manual [ page 63 ] they
refer to a clip-on
sunshade for the sunroof. There are some clips on the
inside of the sunroof
glass for this shade. The local dealer [ Dodge ] can't
find any reference to
it and thinks I'm on drugs. Any one know what it looks
like and where you
would store it if you did have it? Come summertime a shade
might be a good
idea!!
Jim
Berry
P.S.
I'd like to thank the team for their helpful
responses to my other posts.
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6499.DB6ED400
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Beg to differ. On '94+ turbo models, your EGR
temperature sensor will =
throw
Check Engine lights at random intervals
with a blocked EGR valve.
Yes, you're right, also any California cars.
There's a sensor attached =
to the egr. But you're ok on 91-93 non-california
cars.
More importantly, consensus among list experts is that the ECU adjusts
=
fuel
levels to compensate for the change in mixture when the EGR valve
is =
open.
Normally, low-oxygen exhaust gas enrichens the mixture, so the
ECU will
reduce fuel levels when it signals the EGR valve to open. If the EGR
=
system
is blocked, this will lean out the system, and on a modified car,
this =
could
lead to detonation... i.e. BAD.
No Way. The ecu does not
look at the egr. The egr, by introducing "hot" =
exhaust gases into
the intake lowers the NOx emmissions, which is tested =
for in Cal. hence the
sensor on those cars. By blocking it off you lower =
you're intake temp.,
which anything will result in a richer mixture. =
You're exhaust temps. will
also be lower, confirmed by a list member who =
recently performed the mod.
This is a common, "free mod" to dsm's and it =
applies to
3000/stealth's. I've done it to 2 dsm's, 1 basically stock, =
the other
heavily modded and have had no probs. My stealth also works =
fine, and
according to the datalogger, there's no increase of =
detonation, in fact I'm
willing to bet its decreased.
Check out www.myzero.com/engine/egr.hmtl
for more info.
Bryan
-Ed
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6499.DB6ED400
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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From:
"Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Goodridge brake line kit
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 11:52:28 -0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I may have missed something but how much is this brake
line kit and where do
you get it??? Thanx
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
That should be all you need. The connections are
flared so you don't need
any type of gasket or seal. You reuse the clips and
brackets.....
Wayne
At 09:43 PM 3/1/99 -0600, you wrote:
It includes 8 brake lines and nothing more. The
package leads one to
believe there should be crush washers included. Anyone
know what comes in
these kits?
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T
TT
> glass for this shade. The local dealer [ Dodge ]
can't find any reference to
> it and thinks I'm on drugs. Any one know
what it looks like and where you
> would store it if you did have it? Come
summertime a shade might be a good
> idea!!
I store the shade in my garage, i.e. I never use it. It
was on when I got my car
and I wondered what is it for. In the first summer
it didn't help a lot if any,
but Swiss summers are not that hard
:)
Well, this doesn't help you a lot but it is really
existing. Even more, the
sunroof can be detached (I would never recommend
this) and be placed in the
truck. There are special "hangers" for
this purpose. The shade is made just to
throw into the truck.
Regards,
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
15:56:03 1999
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To:
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Date:
Tue, 2 Mar 1999 18:58:32 -0800
Subject: Team3S: Getrag 6-sp
REBUILDABLE???
Message-ID: <19990302.185833.-178857.0.nxiong@juno.com>
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guys you may find this very interesting.. but it seems
this particular
Toyota dealer is very supportive of their products.
Transmissions were
never a big issue for Supras but seems this Toyota dealer
took an extra
step anyway... read on.... just wish a Mitsu dealer was as
responsive...
Jeff Watson was at the drags and guess what. Jay
Marks Toyota bought a
brand new 6-sp. getrag, gave it to a place that builds
transmissions, and
they are in the process of tearing it down and fabricating
their own
replacement parts. Gears, bearings, synchros, the whole
works. This is
not Toyota sponsored and is solely being done by Jay
Marks. They will
soon have all replacement parts for the getrag.
Jeff stated that they
should be the only people with that
capability.
He also said that the parts would be a little more
expensive than they
were hoping for because there just isn't a high enough
demand for parts
to
cover the R&D costs. Hell, when the word
gets out that you can now
service the getrag, every mofo is going to be power
shifting, blowing
gears and the demand will go up. This is very good
news for the getrag
owners.
Bryce
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
16:46:27 1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Goodridge brake line kit
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 19:42:13
-0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Accelerated Accessories sells the Goodridge stainless
steel brake line set
for $175.
>I may have missed something but how much is
this brake line kit and where
do
>you get it???
Thanx
>
>
>92 3000 GTO MMC
>500 H.P. of
Fun
>Plates (HIPRESR)
>(303)
689-4733
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From:
Wayne [ mailto:wala@hypertech-inc.com <mailto:wala@hypertech-inc.com>
>]
>Sent:
Tuesday, March 02, 1999 7:35 AM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Goodridge brake line kit
>
>
>That should be all
you need. The connections are flared so you don't need
>any type of gasket
or seal. You reuse the clips and
brackets.....
>
>Wayne
>
>At 09:43 PM 3/1/99 -0600, you
wrote:
>
>
>
>It includes 8 brake lines and nothing
more. The package leads one to
>believe there should be crush washers
included. Anyone know what comes in
>these
kits?
>
>Thanks,
>Oskar
>'95 R/T
TT
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
James,
My '92 has the sun shade. It is covered in the same
material as the
headliner and is on somesort of cardboard or plastic liner.
It slides in
the two clips on the front (in relation to the car) and has a
cam lock
which does a 1/4 turn to fasten it in. I store it in the
little
dropdown behind the seats.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGT/CHT
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 17:59:55 -0700
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I'm probably going to buy a dual EGT/CHT gage from
aircraft spruce and
specialty CO.[aircraft-spruce.com]
pages 337 & 338
of their on- line catalog. Two questions --- is 1700 degrees
F enough ?? I've
seen you folk
talk of temps in excess of 1700 [ not a good thing -- I hear ].
Second ---
several types of probes are available for the EGT one looks like
1/8 " pipe
compression fitting another just drills a small hole and the
probe is held
in with a clamp. Can the front manifold be drilled and tapped
for 1/8" pipe
fitting or does it have to be welded.
Question three [ so I lied :-) ] is there
any sense in putting a dual EGT
and dual CHT in the car or is that overkill
for non racing use.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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From:
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: sunroof/sunshade
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 21:08:42
-0500
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>
>My '92 has the sun shade. It is covered
in the same material as the
>headliner and is on somesort of cardboard or
plastic liner.
And should you find yourself missing one, as I am, the
friendly Dodge dealer
(or Mitsu dealer) will kindly order one for you...for
$265.
I am not kidding. It's cheaper to have one
made!
Robyn
Dual EGTs are nice but probably not totally
necessary. My experience with
CHTs is that they are of passing interest
only and not of any real value.
By the time CHT raises to a point of caution
any damage is long since been
done. EGTs will give typically you at
least some grace period where you can
take some action.
The clamp in pyrometers do work (I have used them on
motorcycles and sleds)
but I personally prefer the tapped ones. There
is room to mount a probe in
the front or rear manifolds on our
cars.
Be sure to get a fast acting J-type probe and that it
is calibrated for use
on the ground. Aircraft and especially snowmobile
calibrations may be
slightly different. Sometimes they are calibrated
at 0 C whereas "normal"
ones are typically calibrated at 70
F.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I'm
probably going to buy a dual EGT/CHT gage from aircraft spruce and
>
specialty CO.[aircraft-spruce.com]
> pages 337 & 338 of their on- line
catalog. Two questions --- is
> 1700 degrees
> F enough ?? I've seen
you folk
> talk of temps in excess of 1700 [ not a good thing -- I hear ].
Second ---
> several types of probes are available for the EGT one looks
like
> 1/8 " pipe
> compression fitting another just drills a
small hole and the probe is held
> in with a clamp. Can the front manifold
be drilled and tapped for
> 1/8" pipe
> fitting or does it have
to be welded.
>
> Question three [ so I lied :-) ] is
there any sense in putting
> a dual EGT
> and dual CHT in the car or
is that overkill for non racing use.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT/CHT
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 20:23:24 -0500
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I'm probably going to buy a dual EGT/CHT gage from
aircraft spruce and
specialty CO.[aircraft-spruce.com]
pages 337 & 338
of their on- line catalog. Two questions --- is 1700
degrees
F enough ??
I've seen you folk
talk of temps in excess of 1700 [ not a good thing -- I
hear ]. Second ---
several types of probes are available for the EGT one
looks like 1/8 " pipe
compression fitting another just drills a small
hole and the probe is held
in with a clamp. Can the front manifold be drilled
and tapped for 1/8" pipe
fitting or does it have to be welded.
[Brian
Danley] This is where I have mine.. in the front
header. I
tapped mine and then had casey weld it (just to make sure it
was in there).
Be sure it's before the precat. Also the front
header can be 100F less
then the rear. As for the temp .. 1700 is
fine. I hear the magic # is
1600 F for a good lean mixture. I
wouldn't like going over that too often
... I have .. but don't like
too.
Question three [ so I lied :-) ] is there
any sense in putting a dual EGT
and dual CHT in the car or is that overkill
for non racing use.
> pages 337 & 338 of their on- line catalog. Two
questions --- is 1700 degrees
> F enough ??
The AutoMeter I'm getting goes up to 1600F and I think
this is high enough !
> in with a clamp. Can the front manifold be drilled
and tapped for 1/8" pipe
> fitting or does it have to be
welded.
The front one can be tapped as some have this done
already. Unfortunately, the
probes for the aircrafts uses somewhat weak
shielding and are not well heat
resistant. That's why the street-probes are
somewhat more expensive.
> Question three [ so I lied :-) ] is
there any sense in putting a dual EGT
> and dual CHT in the car or is that
overkill for non racing use.
I will read the middle cylinder on both banks. But this
is just to record the
data over a longer period and for checkign when driving
on high speeds over a
longer period. You have to check if you need to tap
into the heads for the CHT
probes.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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Stealth@starnet.net
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Mime-Version: 1.0
Subject:
Team3S: Complements to Mitsubishi 23+ lbs boost
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Finally got the engine apart & ready to ship the
heads here & the bottom
there.
* Interesting observation...My rings are absolutly
shot. No question about
that.
But,
I've run upwards of 23+ lbs boost on
116 Octane with NO SCORING found on the
pistons. Other then the carbon build
up and the rings, this engine looks like
new inside? Piston walls are smooth
as silk. Keep in mind I have 117,500 miles
on this 91 Vr-4. These are great
motors and we can be proud of them. I
actually think I could have run more
boost. If I wanted to just change the
rings, I could drive this tiger for
another 100,000 miles. I'm amazed!
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 2
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGT/CHT
Date: Tue, 2 Mar 1999 21:50:43 -0700
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>Be sure to get a fast acting J-type probe and that
it is calibrated for use
>on the ground. Aircraft and especially
snowmobile calibrations may be
>slightly different. Sometimes they
are calibrated at 0 C whereas "normal"
>ones are typically
calibrated at 70 F.
It's been quite a while since I messed with
thermocouples but I thought the
thermocouple
industry used the triple
point of water [ 0 degrees C ] as the reference
voltage for
compensated
meters. It looks like I might have to do some homework.
:-(
The calibration depends upon the application since
there is a certain degree
(no pun intended of course) of error which isn't
always linear.
When ordering from Westach they offer a few different
styles, for instance.
Best to ask just in case.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >Be
sure to get a fast acting J-type probe and that it is
> calibrated for
use
> >on the ground. Aircraft and especially snowmobile
calibrations may be
> >slightly different. Sometimes they are
calibrated at 0 C
> whereas "normal"
> >ones are
typically calibrated at 70 F.
>
> It's been quite a while since I
messed with thermocouples but I
> thought the
> thermocouple
>
industry used the triple point of water [ 0 degrees C ] as the reference
>
voltage for compensated
> meters. It looks like I might have to do some
homework. :-(
Hello all,
I am going to look at a 94 VR-4 Today, and was
wondering first of all if the
engine is an interference type engine, or
non-interference engine. Meaning,
if the timing belt breaks, will the
pistons make contact with the valves, or
any other damage occur?
Also, I was wondering if there is anything that I
should be careful about
when buying this car. Are the Turbos a weak
link? Are there any accessories
that should be with the car (sunroof
shade, spare tool kit?)
Also, the car is a 94 VR-4. What was the factory
powertrain warranty
offered on these?
Thank you very much.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
05:45:47 1999
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Date:
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
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Hello Austin,
The engines in the 3000s are interference
engines, although I believe in
different ways. The turbo 3000 VR4 engines are
a bit different from the non-
turbo. The Vr4 is much lower compression (8:1)
as compared to the non turbo
(10:1). I do not know if the VR4 pistons and
valves hit. However, the intake
and exhaust valves do hit each other when the
timing belt breaks - which can
be very destructive. The non-turbo engines
definitely experience piston/valve
and valve/valve contact. Either way it is
bad.
The good news is that timing belt failures are pretty rare
- especially if
the belt is changed every 60,000 miles and a new tensioner
properly installed
with it.
I suspect many VR4 / TT owners on
the list can answer whether the turbo
engines experience piston / valve
contact.
excellent,
Thank you very much for your quick
response
Austin T
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lomcevak@aol.com [mailto:Lomcevak@aol.com]
> Sent:
Wednesday, March 03, 1999 6:46 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
>
>
>
> Hello Austin,
>
> The
engines in the 3000s are interference engines,
> although I believe
in
> different ways. The turbo 3000 VR4 engines are a bit
>
different from the non-
> turbo. The Vr4 is much lower compression (8:1)
as compared to
> the non turbo
> (10:1). I do not know if the VR4
pistons and valves hit.
> However, the intake
> and exhaust valves
do hit each other when the timing belt
> breaks - which can
> be
very destructive. The non-turbo engines definitely
> experience
piston/valve
> and valve/valve contact. Either way it is
bad.
> The good news is that timing belt failures are
pretty rare
> - especially if
> the belt is changed every 60,000
miles and a new tensioner
> properly installed
> with
it.
> I suspect many VR4 / TT owners on the list can
answer
> whether the turbo
> engines experience piston / valve
contact.
>
>
SteveC.
> '91 3000GT
SL
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
oops, sorry for sending this to the list.. typical new
commer..
Austin T
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tracy,
Austin [mailto:austin.tracy@rez.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 1999 6:47 AM
> To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
>
>
>
excellent,
>
> Thank you very much for your quick response
>
> Austin T
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
From: Lomcevak@aol.com [mailto:Lomcevak@aol.com]
> > Sent:
Wednesday, March 03, 1999 6:46 AM
> > To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
> >
> >
> >
> > Hello Austin,
> >
>
> The engines in the 3000s are interference engines,
> > although I believe in
> > different ways. The turbo 3000
VR4 engines are a bit
> > different from the non-
> > turbo.
The Vr4 is much lower compression (8:1) as compared to
> > the non
turbo
> > (10:1). I do not know if the VR4 pistons and valves hit.
> > However, the intake
> > and exhaust valves do hit each
other when the timing belt
> > breaks - which can
> > be very
destructive. The non-turbo engines definitely
> > experience
piston/valve
> > and valve/valve contact. Either way it is bad.
>
> The good news is that timing belt failures are pretty
rare
> > - especially if
> > the belt is changed every 60,000
miles and a new tensioner
> > properly installed
> > with
it.
> > I suspect many VR4 / TT owners on the list
can answer
> > whether the turbo
> > engines experience
piston / valve contact.
> >
> >
SteveC.
> > '91 3000GT SL
>
>
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> > http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From:
"Bill Davis" <b-davis@primary.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 08:05:18
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Yes it is an interference engine, thus 60K maint. is an
absolute must.
As far as I know the turbos are not a big problem, maybe
others
like the big engine mod guys could better answer that Q.
Not sure about the 94 Accessories. My 95 has a sunroof,
with an
inside panel, that basically fills the hole in the roof like the rest
of the
headliner. I guess that's a sunroof shade.
Tools are just the normal jack, spare, handle. Make
sure the wheel
lock is there. Get the Stereo code, if so
equipped.
5 Yr. 60K drivetrain warranty, so yer prolly outa luck
there.
Drive the car, and shift into lower gears at high speed,
make sure
the syncros are in good shape. I dont actually
mean to downshift, but make
sure you can put the tranny into
lower gears.
OK, so where is the wheel lock key supposed to be
located? are these VR-4
standard issue?
Stereo code: what is a way to tell if it is
input? how do you clear it, or
make sure it is cleared?
Warranty: I am getting an aftermarket warranty...
this list made me take a
good look at repair costs and the
"delicate" getrags. for $1100 I can get a
36000 mile, 3 yr
bumper to bumper warranty. with a transmission probably
costing
$1500-$2000, I think this is a good investment.
Thank you all
Austin Tracy
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill
Davis [mailto:b-davis@primary.net]
> Sent:
Wednesday, March 03, 1999 7:05 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
>
>
> Tools
are just the normal jack, spare, handle. Make sure the wheel
> lock is
there. Get the Stereo code, if so equipped.
>
> 5 Yr. 60K
drivetrain warranty, so yer prolly outa luck there.
> Drive the car, and
shift into lower gears at high speed,
> make sure the syncros are in good
shape. I dont actually
> mean to downshift, but make sure you can put the
tranny into
> lower gears.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 09:36:34
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Can't speak for the VR-4, but my Stealth has the
luglock key connected to
the jack via a small braided wire. Easily removed
(and lost) for tire
changes.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
06:37:15 1999
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 08:38:57
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Should be with the jack, it's a socket adapter for
the
locking lug nut. I am not sure if the 94 has the same
stereo as 95, if
it does, and the stereo is working,
then the code has been input to the
unit.
I can't remember, but somewhere there is a
sticker
that says anti-theft sound system, or something like
that.
Bill Davis 95 VR-4
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 07:48:20
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In addition to the other fine advice, expect to perform
a wheel alignment.
Rear hatch rattles are not uncommon. Sometimes it is
just the jack and
tools movig around but sometimes it is the sealing around
the hatch.
Sometimes the removable sunroof rattles too. There should be
a shade for
the sunroof.
There should be a removable tray in the center
console. Check to make sure
the active aero works. You can test
it by turning on the ignition (no need
to start the car) and depressing the
active aero switch on the center
console. Front dam should come down
without any real noie and the wing
should flip up. They should also
retract without a fuss.
Three engine mounts on my 94 needed to be replaced when
I bought it. The
front left one (driver's side mount) is notorious for
going and is easy to
check.
The stereo code is preset and usually a dealer can
decode it from the serial
number on the back of the head unit.
Have fun.
Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 09:55:57
-0500
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>>Three engine mounts on my 94 needed to be
replaced when I bought it. The
>>front left one (driver's side
mount) is notorious for going and is easy to
>>check.
That was good advice, Barry!
Can you explain how the
mount is easy to check for failure? Any idea if its
also common on NT's with
obviously less torque?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 09:57:36
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>>Three engine mounts on my 94 needed to be
replaced when I bought it. The
>>front left one (driver's side
mount) is notorious for going and is easy to
>>check.
That was good advice, Barry!
Can you explain how the
mount is easy to check for failure? Any idea if its
also common on NT's with
obviously less torque?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
07:00:23 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 08:00:26
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I am not sure if the NTs suffer from this or
not.
Just locate the engine mount on the drivers side of the
engine not far from
the cruise control box. It is aluminium ad bolts to
a metal (maybe iron)
piece between the engine and the chassis. A
flashlight may help. Look for
cracks in the rubber and signs of stress
on the iron piece.
Usually it is just the rubber that goes away.
That mount is supposedly
often stocked by dealers according to two different
dealerships I asked so
they must be expecting it.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>>Three engine mounts on my 94 needed to be replaced when I
> bought
it. The
> >>front left one (driver's side mount) is notorious
for going and
> is easy to
> >>check.
>
> That was
good advice, Barry!
> Can you explain how the mount is easy to check for
failure? Any
> idea if its
> also common on NT's with obviously less
torque?
>
> -Mike
> '93 Stealth ES
> mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net <mailto:mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Harmonic Balancer
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 10:07:32 -0500
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According to Unorthodox Racing, our cars neither have
nor need a harmonic
balancer...
But many people on this list disagree. The bottom line
is that the
"balancer" is better known as the crank pulley, so to
change it, you've got
to do all the labor for a timing belt change, which is
enough to drive the
price up around $400 from a dealer.
However, I'd certainly get a second opinion... how can
they tell that you
need a new one? Seems like an impossible thing to judge.
And why not just
call it a crank pulley, like everyone else does, unless
they're trying to
confuse you?
-Ed
How much should the parts and or labor cost to have
the Harmonic
balancer replaced. Lou Fusz Mitsubishi is telling me I
need a new one.
Cost: around $400.
Due to my recent dealings with them, I don't trust
them. Help me out
guys.
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth
R/T Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
At 06:18 AM 3/3/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>
>Hello all,
>
>I am going to look at a 94 VR-4
Today... I was wondering if there is
anything that I should be careful
about
Be sure to purchase a 3/36 warranty with it. That's an
extra $1700
Check for a grind on the 1-2 or 2-1 shift. If so, the synchros
are bad. A
new Getrag 6-speed will set you back about $3,000.
Make sure it
has had its 60,000 mile service. This includes a new timing
chain. Ask to see
documentation and/or receipts. A clutch is due now
too...see if that has been
replaced.
Check the chrome on the wheels to see if it's bubbling. Wheels are
$650
each to replace.
Talk to the previous owner.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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The engine mounts (called silent blocks here) on my
93'3000GT (produced March
93) have been inspected at the 60k and again during
the rebuild and they were in
a perfect condition... null
problemo.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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Having just removed the engine, I can say that my
engine mounts are in good
condition too. 117500 miles & look fine. I am
considering hard mounting the
engine onto plates to avoid engine rock and to
make sure they won't break
later. May be a bit more of vibration tho. Since
it won't be an everyday
driver, I feel it won't be to much.
Arty 91
Vr-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
If anyone's interested, here's a photo of the
front mount. The 3 empty holes
are for the bolts to the engine (actually
another iron peice bolted to the
engine).
SteveC
--part0_920478594_boundary
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/9j/4AAQSkZJRgABAQEAAQABAAD//gCUVlQtQ29tcHJlc3MgKHRtKSBYaW5nIFRlY2hub2xv
Z3kgQ29ycC4AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
08:44:28 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 interference engine/mount
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 10:47:07
-0600
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TO save weight, change that motor mount to the 94+
aluminum mount. Weight
savings of about 10lbs will be seen.
The
newer mount bolts directly in.
<< File: MOUNT1.JPG >>
If
anyone's interested, here's a photo of the front mount. The 3
empty
holes
are for the bolts to the engine (actually another iron peice
bolted to the
engine).
SteveC
Hello everyone,
I'm in need of a set of right side
1st gen, 17" wheels. If anybody has any,
will you trade for a set of
left sides?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
10:48:02 1999
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Team3S: Racers
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bulk
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Does anyone on the list have a racing license? If
so are you interested
in using it?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
10:53:58 1999
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: sunroof/sunshade
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 13:53:50 -0500
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If you really want one, why not just ask around -
I'm sure there's a lot of
us who have no use for ours.
So, what'll you give me for mine?
It's been lying
in the back of a closet ever since I bought the car.
:-)
-Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Stealth
And should you find yourself missing one, as I am, the
friendly Dodge dealer
(or Mitsu dealer) will kindly order one for you...for
$265.
I am not kidding. It's cheaper to have one
made!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
13:09:45 1999
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From: "Greg Narvas" <2nervis@3si.zzn.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: I'm Interested in buying a sunroof sun shade..
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I'm looking for one of these sun shades...Thing is I
have an aftermarket pop up sunroof. Is that sun shade only ment for the factory
sun roof or do u think I can modify it to fit mine? thanx
Well, if anybody remembers, i found 4 piston calipers
at Ametuer Zone for a
good price. I finally got around to changing mine out
when i realized they
gave me the wrong side. I ordered the right (passenger)
side, i got the
left. The part number was correct though, it was the right
side part number.
I figure, no big deal, i'll bring it back and have them
order me another
one. Just for added security, i called the rebuilder (R-B
Rebuilders,
Benton Harbor, Mi.) to warn them. I told them "i wanted to
let you know
that i ordered a caliper from you, through Auto Zone, and it was
the wrong
side. I would like to tell you how to determine which is which, so
i get
the correct side this time" She says, "O.K., thanks. I'll
tell the
manager". Then she hung up. So, needless to say, i wasn't given
the chance
to tell them.
So the next day i go pick up my second
caliper......guess
what........another left side. O.K. They have one strike
left, then i
rebuild it myself (which i now know is pretty easy) So this time
i throw
them a curve ball, and order a left side. Today i got my
third
caliper........Bam.......right side!!!
The moral of the story is this; If you order a VR-4
front caliper from
Ametuer Zone, order the opposite side that you need, that
way you will get
the correct one the first time. I thought about calling R-B
Rebuilders back
to make another attempt, but i only like to be hung up on,
once a week........
On a lighter note, having my car on a rack for 5 days
allowed enough time
to build a main cat "test pipe", and come up
with a decent pattern for a
downpipe......;')
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
15:22:19 1999
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 15:26:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Parts 4 sale, rims, turbos, Bozz scoops too
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Arty,
are the 17 inchers with tires
still for sale and if they are do you
mind if i call you to see them in
person???? My brother "flatted" his
right rear sumitomo and it
seems the tire has been discontiued.
anyhow, We were thinking of getting your
17 inchers (the set of 4 w/
tires included) as a replacement. anyhow, let me
know soon. he is
currently driving my Jeep while I am driving my mom's jeep.
Kinda
sucks since mom's jeep has a plain old cassette AM/FM and not
CD
player like mine.
: ( thank Arty.
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
16:37:29 1999
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Date:
Wed, 03 Mar 1999 17:37:24 -0700
From: dave <monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu>
Organization:
noticably, very little..
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake caliper saga continues...
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Wayne said:
Well, if anybody remembers, i found 4 piston calipers
at Ametuer Zone for a
good price. I finally got around to changing mine out
when i realized they
gave me the wrong side. I ordered the right (passenger)
side, i got the
left. The part number was correct though, it was the right
side part number.
<snip>
I know it's probably not really worth the trouble, but
how about forwarding
your letter to:
I have had similar frustrations in the past and wished
I had an easy way to
communicate them.. Maybe it would help others in
the future..
Dave
91 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake caliper saga continues...
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 18:55:23
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You know, this problem isn't just an "Auto
Zone" problem. It is a cost
cutting problem.
When you cut costs
to have a product "cheap" you give up quality from
some
place. In this instance, it is customer service and boxing
problems.
Consider yourself lucky you have a caliper that doesn't
leak.
I have worked in the Automotive aftermarket for 12
years now. This is
normal in discount parts places. When penny
pinching, expect these
problems.
If you had this problem with the dealer, I would be
upset, because you pay a
higher price and should get it correct the first
time.
Bottom line, you get what you pay for, customer service
costs money, when a
place sells a part for pennies over cost you don't get
the service or
quality control one would expect from a dealer.
Wayne said:
Well, if anybody remembers, i found 4 piston calipers
at Ametuer Zone for a
good price. I finally got around to changing mine out
when i realized they
gave me the wrong side. I ordered the right (passenger)
side, i got the
left. The part number was correct though, it was the right
side part number.
<snip>
I know it's probably not really worth the trouble, but
how about forwarding
your letter to:
I have had similar frustrations in the past and wished
I had an easy way to
communicate them.. Maybe it would help others in
the future..
Dave
91 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake caliper saga continues...
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 19:25:48
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Well, if anybody remembers, i found 4 piston
calipers at Ametuer Zone for a
good price.
[Brian Danley] So have you driven it yet?
How are the calipers?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
19:03:51 1999
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 1999 22:06:14 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Racers
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At 11:47 AM 3/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
> Does
anyone on the list have a racing license? If so are you interested
>in
using it?
I have an SCCA national competition license and my
racing season is just
about to get into full swing again here on the east
coast.
The team is also in the process of putting a team
together to run the
inaugural 12 hours of Summit Point Endurance Race.
Details can be found on
the Washington DC, Region of SCCA's web page at www.wdcr-scca.org
The event will be held on the weekend of June 4,5,6
later this year.
As always I encourage anyone interested to come out to
see some REAL racing
where the cars make left and right hand turns (where
1320' is only getting
you started for a run at the front straight at Summit
Point). Anyone that
comes down will be put to work right away as crew members
if you are
interested. =:o
BTW, my 3KGT does 140 mph easily just riding around
while showing students
"the line".
-shawn dewey
'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy
hands of a new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91 Talon TSI AWD
13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car
(SSC class)
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake caliper saga continues...
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 19:26:02
-0700
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>You know, this problem isn't just an "Auto
Zone" problem. It is a cost
>cutting problem.
>When you
cut costs to have a product "cheap" you give up quality from
some
>place
>I have worked in the Automotive aftermarket for 12
years now. This is
>normal in discount parts places. When
penny pinching, expect these
>problems.
>
>If you had this
problem with the dealer, I would be upset, because you pay
a
>higher
price and should get it correct the first time.
>
>Bottom line, you
get what you pay for, customer service costs money,
Brad, I agree with much of what you said, however,one
of the reasons an
aftermarket
exists is because dealers have decided
to make their parts department a
significant
profit center. I've had many
a shock when quoted a price from the dealer. A
good example
is the $265
sunshade referred to in a recent post. I was recently quoted
$425 for a
distributor
for my 89 probe turbo. Most people don't mind getting what they
paid for
but, I don't think
I should pay double it's value.
With
respect to the Autozone problem, I'm sure if you talk to the right
person
they will care a
lot and the problem will be resolved. Finding the right
person might be a
pain though.
I was reading the latest turbo magazine, and the
article with Adam
Saruw.....whatever was interesting, and he said that his
roll cage
stiffened the car up enough that once the suspension was adjusted,
his
60' times went from 1.65 to 1.30. Does anyone have a roll cage, and
or
has anyone thought of having one put in?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
21:03:39 1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: west coast all wheel dyno
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 20:52:14
-0700
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I had the opportunity to get over to UPRD [Under
Pressure Research and
Development ] in
Huntington Beach, Ca. While the're
not open for business yet I got to talk
to some of the
worker bees and got
a rundown on their operation.
I'm impressed with the potential and their
goals. The're still in the
process of moving in, so things
were a little
chaotic. The dynos [ two wheel and four wheel ] are supposed
to be up and
running,
HOWEVER, when we tried to get a dyno run on my car It would
not record the
data correctly :-((
Seems the dyno manufacturer had made
some changes the day before and hadn't
tested it in
4 wheel mode. When
repaired I'm going back to establish a baseline for my
car with runs at
9
PSI and 15PSI.
In addition to the dyno's they have an engine dyno, flow
benches, clean room
[engine assembly]
four lifts and miscellanious
fabrication equiptment. The techs I talked to
really seemed to know
their
stuff. They had a few cars around that they were working on ----
yellow
3000GT with 20 G
turbos, custom intercooler and mandrel bent intercooler
lines and turbo-back
exhaust etc.etc.
BTW if you're in southern California
and see a black Supra with the license
plate UPRD you may
challenge it at
your peril. It's the bosses car that puts out about 900 HP
and has more
modes
than I could count. It was up on a lift with the engine out and it
looks
like he has as much invested
in that Supra as I have in my
house.
They also have a warehouse area and an office area for 15 or
20
employees.They appear to be
well financed [ top of the line equipment
and offices ].
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 3
23:06:42 1999
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: west coast all wheel dyno
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> The dynos [ two wheel and four wheel ] are
supposed to be up and running,
Have you been able to check out the manufacturer of the
dyno ?? Would be
interesting.
Regards,
Roger
No, i haven't driven it. I will today. Last night after
work, i installed
the caliper, and bled the brakes. Today at lunch i'm
putting my rear cat
bypass pipe in and then it will be road worthy. I guess
i'll find out if
removing the rear cat and installing a Trust exhaust does
anything for
power. Then i'll move on to fabricating a down
pipe.
Wayne
At 07:25 PM 3/3/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>
>
>[Brian Danley] So have you driven it
yet? How are the calipers?
Speaking of bleeding, i installed Russell "speed
bleeders" while my caliper
was being replaced. At first i thought it was
a gimmick, but now that iv'e
used them, i'll never use anything else. These
things are amazing. Open the
bleeder, pump it slowly about 6 times, and close
it, boom.......you're
finished (after repeating on all corners, of course).
The part number is in
my car, i'll pass it on when i have time....
Wayne, I have heard good things about these speed
bleeders, and have been
wanting to get a set for my car. Where did you
get them, how much did they
cost, and what size did you get?
Thanks
Austin T
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Wayne
>
> Speaking of bleeding, i installed Russell "speed
bleeders"
> while my caliper was being replaced.
>
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
I was a Beta tester, you might say, so they were free.
I think they cost
$10ea., or $10 for 2. They come in packages of 2. The size
for 3/S cars is
10mm x 1.0.........although they wont work on the rear
calipers of cars
produced between 3/92 and 5/93. For some reason, mitsu used
7mm bleeders on
these rear calipers. They will work on the clutch slave also,
finally an
easy way to bleed the clutch!! I think the part number is 3956,
but like i
said, i'll pass that on when i make it back over there....I'm sure
they can
be purchased from anybody that sells Russell stuff. (summit, jegs,
etc.)
Wayne
At 07:37 AM 3/4/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Wayne, I
have heard good things about these speed bleeders, and have been
>wanting
to get a set for my car. Where did you get them, how much did
they
>cost, and what size did you get?
>
>Thanks
>Austin
T
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
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Re: Team3S: Brake caliper saga continues...
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Brad,
You are absolutely right and I think electrical stuff
is the worst. If
you get a starter or an alternator from a discount place
that has a
lifetime (or long) warranty, I swear to God, they take the cores,
dip
'em clean, hit them with a shot of paint and box 'em up. They let
the
customer sort them out. I started buying only top quality
electrical
parts when I bought the 5th starter for my mustang and the wire to
one
of the brushes was completely broken in two. I was replacing twice
a
year it seemed, but I though it was ok because of the warranty.
BUT,
your effort, time and inconvienence is worth something too.
Brad writes:
"You know, this problem isn't just an "Auto
Zone" problem. It is a cost
cutting problem.
When you cut costs
to have a product "cheap" you give up quality
from
some
place. In this instance, it is customer service and boxing
problems.
Consider yourself lucky you have a caliper that doesn't
leak.
I have worked in the Automotive aftermarket for 12
years now. This is
normal in discount parts places. When penny
pinching, expect these
problems."
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
08:52:50 1999
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Roll Cages?
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 11:52:42 -0500
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I know Turbo Harry has a custom one in his
car...
Autopower actually makes bolt-in cages for our cars.
Try OGRacing
(http://www.ogracing.com)
- I got a quote of just over $400 from them for
one.
-Ed
I was reading the latest turbo magazine, and the
article with Adam
Saruw.....whatever was interesting, and he said that his
roll cage
stiffened the car up enough that once the suspension was adjusted,
his
60' times went from 1.65 to 1.30. Does anyone have a roll cage, and
or
has anyone thought of having one put in?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
10:11:15 1999
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From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
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I want to get a race team going to get some publicity.
Currently I am
trying
to get a car entered into the Pike Peak Hill
climb. I don't think you need a
license for it but im not sure if you don't
know about this race ill give
you a
little history. The hill climb is a
race to the top of pike peak. The
starting
line begins at I believe 9000
feet. The finish line ends at 12000 feet all on
dirt
through mountain
roads. It is an international event and racers come from
all
over the
world to compete. Its a true test to car and driver. Right now I
have
one
person interested in taking this challenge. His car has been fully moded
with
the suspension upgrade and all necessary performance mod. Anyone
who
competes in this events will be directly competing against the big
names
like
Toyota, Ford and Chev to name a few notice manufactures.
They race all
their
experimental stuff and hire professional drivers to
drive for them. But
don't
worry they have different classes of racing so
you would be put in the
appropriate category. Last year I talked to the race
official about entering
in
a vehicle and they were more than willing to
help. Let me know if your
interested in something like this.
Shawn Dewey wrote:
> At 11:47 AM 3/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >
Does anyone on the list have a racing license? If so are you interested
>
>in using it?
>
> I have an SCCA national competition license and
my racing season is just
> about to get into full swing again here on the
east coast.
>
> The team is also in the process of putting a team
together to run the
> inaugural 12 hours of Summit Point Endurance Race.
Details can be found on
> the Washington DC, Region of SCCA's web page at
www.wdcr-scca.org
>
> The
event will be held on the weekend of June 4,5,6 later this year.
>
>
As always I encourage anyone interested to come out to see some REAL
racing
> where the cars make left and right hand turns (where 1320' is
only getting
> you started for a run at the front straight at Summit
Point). Anyone that
> comes down will be put to work right away as crew
members if you are
> interested. =:o
>
> BTW, my 3KGT
does 140 mph easily just riding around while showing students
> "the
line".
>
> -shawn dewey
>
> '91 Stealth R/T
nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy hands of a new owner!)
> '93 3000GT
VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
> '91 Talon TSI AWD 13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car,
yeah right! :)
> '95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car (SSC class)
> http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
--
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST Communications
930
15th Street Denver, CO 80202-2994
Voice: (303) 624-1358
Home: (719)
573-7649
Fax: (303) 624-1288
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
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Sorry for my previous post? It was supposed to be
a direct post not a
group one.
--
At 11:11 AM 3/4/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Currently
I am
>trying to get a car entered into the Pike Peak Hill
climb.
Hoo, boy...that will be a rush.
I suspect the twin
turbo VR4 might be competitive in a stock class, because
the turbos will make
up for the loss of power at the altitude, and the AWD
will help in the
gravel.
If they stick the 3800 lb VR4 into the same class with
much lighter,
rally-prepared AWD turbo cars such as the Subaru (Impreza?) you
haven't got
a prayer.
I don't think you need a
>license for it
I think you do, but any pro license will do (I think),
such as Colorado
Hillclimb Assoc, SCCA Pro Rally, etc.
The finish line ends at 12000 feet all
on
>dirt >through mountain roads.
Yep. With a VR4, you should be able to hit 120+ on some
of the straights.
Problem is stopping from that speed. The ABS should help,
but be sure to
upgrade the brakes.
>one person interested in taking this challenge.
His car has been fully moded
>with the suspension upgrade and all
necessary performance mod.
The suspension upgrade may be in the wrong direction:
i.e., if he lowered
the car, this will not do. You need ground clearance and
suspension travel
for Pikes Peak. You'll also need a bash plate under
the engine and trans
to protect from rocks. A sheet of 1/4 in. T6 aluminum
will probably do,
since you won't be encountering tree stumps.
>But don't worry they have different
classes of racing so you would be put
in the
>appropriate category.
Like I said, the VR4 in a stock class might clean
up. If you go modded,
you may
be in trouble because of all the
lightweight rallye cars..
Good luck. Keep us posted!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
you might check any pep boys. should find them near the
exhaust section
along with other engine dressup stuff, if the store is laid
anything like
what it is in philly. kind of expensive though... if i recall,
it was $14
for 2
omar
> Wayne, I have heard good things about these speed
bleeders, and have been
> wanting to get a set for my car. Where did
you get them, how
> much did they
> cost, and what size did you
get?
>
> Thanks
>
> Austin T
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
11:30:35 1999
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From:
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To:
"'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power Steering Fluid?
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 11:30:29 -0800
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Hey Guys,
Anyone have
recommendations for power steering fluid? Manual says
A/T Dexron II
fluid, but I don't think they make that anymore...can I use
any non-Honda
fluid? Synthetic/Blend? Brand?
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire
mod
------
----------
"Scripture does not teach science, period. Genesis tells us
what happened in the archaic, pre-scientific idiom of the
ancient
Hebrews. It does not tell us how it happened. We can
learn what we can about
that "how" from science, always
keeping in mind that there can be
no real conflict between
two very different orders of knowledge: science and
theology."
--George Sim Johnston "The Pope and
Evolution"
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Roll Cages?
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 14:52:20 -0500
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Woops, I mis-wrote...
That's just over $400 for a road-race _bar_, not a full
cage. Full cages
will run you more, obviously.
-Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Fein, Edward
I know Turbo Harry has a custom one in his
car...
Autopower actually makes bolt-in cages for our cars.
Try OGRacing
(http://www.ogracing.com)
- I got a quote of just over $400 from them for
one.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
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Subject:
Team3S: And the magic number is........
Cc: stealth@starnet.net
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Power Steering Fluid?
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 16:59:23 -0500
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Redline Synthetic Power Steering
Fluid.
Redline actually makes a specific full-synthetic power
steering fluid, which
is compatible with our cars. I've been using it since
October - it actually
tightens up steering feel a hair over whatever stuff
had been in there for
the past 60,000 miles. The only down side is my
steering pump complains when
I turn to full lock in reverse while the car is
completely cold.
-Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Hey Guys,
Anyone have
recommendations for power steering fluid? Manual says
A/T Dexron II
fluid, but I don't think they make that anymore...can I use
any non-Honda
fluid? Synthetic/Blend? Brand?
I think the necessity for a security code is
incase the power is ever cut going to the
radio, such as when resetting the
ecu. If it has the factory radio, a double din
tape/cd changer
controller/eq, then you'll need the security code to make the radio
work
again after power is cut. If they don't have it, you can call a
dealer with serial
number (top of unit I think), and they can get it for
you. Although if you call the
wrong dealer they might want to give you
#@$& and tell you to come in with the radio and
title, blah blah
blah. I'd like to see someone steal the unit and install it in
another
car....................
About the synchros, speed shift the
car into the lower gears. I bought a 94, and
because I was hesitant to
get on it with the owner riding along I never speed shifted
until I owned
it. I then noticed the grinding into second gear. I ended up getting
a
new trans from the power train warranty, but if the warranty isn't in
effect, tell him
you won't buy the car unless you can drive it
fast.
The 94 is often the most interesting and sought-after
year. In 94 they were bumped up
20 hp, receive a 6spd and projection
lights. After 94 features started disappearing to
cut cost and possibly
save maintainence. Sport/tour exhaust was eventually done away
with,
along with Electronically Controlled Suspension and the active
spoilers.
Good luck,
Jason
Tracy, Austin wrote:
> Also, I was wondering if there is anything that I
should be careful about
> when buying this car. Are the Turbos a weak
link? Are there any accessories
> that should be with the car
(sunroof shade, spare tool kit?)
I too am in the market for a roll bar. A four
point cage to be exact for my '92 TT to
meet the
requirements for the
130mph class in the Silver State Classic (Nevada - September).
I
want
a cage with two rear kickers and a horizontal cross bar to attach a
five point safety
harness.
Fein, Edward wrote:
> Autopower actually makes bolt-in cages for our
cars. Try OGRacing
> (http://www.ogracing.com) - I got a quote of
just over $400 from them for
> one.
> That's just over $400 for a road-race _bar_, not a
full cage. Full cages will run you
> more, obviously.
I was not able to locate a listing for 3/S applications
anywhere. Does OGRacing make
custom
cages upon request? I know
some 3/S cars have competed in the past at high speeds
including
John
Hennessey (most known for his Viper Venom packages) who topped out at 187
mph.
Many
of you may recall that John used to cater to 3/S cars several
moons ago.
I just want a tasteful cage that doesn't tear up my
interior. Any insight would be
appreciated.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
19:32:50 1999
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From:
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To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: street race shift point
Date: Thu, 4 Mar 1999 19:21:16
-0700
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I was trying to determine the best 1st to 2nd shift
point when street racing
my 93 TT.
I calculated the final drive to be
12.195 and the speed to be 45 MPH @ 7000
RPM.
If I shift at redline that
puts me in 2nd at about 4000 RPM --- a fine spot
for
rapid
acceleration. However --- according to the dyno runs done by our
European
affiliates
torque starts to drop at about 5000 RPM and HP
flattens at 5500 or so.
Shifting at
these points puts me in 2nd at a
little under 3000 RPM --- not a good
acceleration
range.
So the
question is --- what shift point is the best compromise between
torque, HP
and
turbo spoolup??
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 4
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Changing oil the other day I discovered that oil has
been collecting along the
bottom of the transfer case. My partner in crime,
Dave Trent, commented that
it looked like it was coming from somewhere near
the top rear of the engine
bay - the transfer case being the lowest point for
the oil to flow before it
drips away. Next day I had the transaxle and
transfer case fluid checked at a
tranny shop - both full. Makes sense since
the transaxle and transfer case
were replaced under warranty about 1 1/2
years ago.
The oil looks like it could be motor oil from the
engine - as far as my
eyeball could tell. I did have to add about half a
quart of oil to the engine
recently. Dave tried to get a good look at the oil
fittings on the rear turbo,
but couldn't quite tell. The tech at the tranny
shop suggested checking the
rear valve cover gasket.
The clutch has felt a bit funny lately. I thought it
might be fluid loss from
the clutch master cylinder. I checked the clutch
fluid reservoir - full. By
the way the Mitsu owner's manual shows the clutch
fluid reservoir behind or
below the Y-pipe at the final elbow as it connects
to the plenum. It is not
there. It is just behind the front left shock strut
tower and just to the left
of the brake master cyl. (visualise as if you were
sitting in the car). I must
have poked around under the Y-pipe for 15 minutes
trying to locate an
invisible clutch reservoir.
Anybody have any suggestions about what other part of
the engine I need to
check?
Just for my own curiosity - where is the clutch master
cylinder? Is it hiding
somewhere under the big cover on the brake master
cyl?
By the way - anybody living in or near Indianapolis who
needs tranny work - I
HIGHLY recommend Lafayette square AAMCO transmission
(just north of 38th and
east of 465). My car's former owner got the runaround
from THREE Mitsu dealers
in the area before this AAMCO shop diagnosed the
getrag synchros going bad. He
had a Mitsu dealer ship a new transaxle and
transfer case to AAMCO and had
them do the tranny swap. Mitsu then inspected
the work to continue the
waranty.
Doug Bailey, the AAMCO owner, is a super nice guy. I
called him up and he
remembered the car and previous owner. He was real busy
but agreed to take a
look at the car. The tech who installed the new tranny
checked everything out.
He was very thorough - even tried adding fluid to the
transfer case just to be
sure it was full. When he was done he talked to me
for awhile about his
experience repairing the car and gave me some
suggestions for tracking down
the oil leak.
They didn't charge me a penny so I told him I'd spread
the word about their
good service. Sorry this doesn't apply to everybody on
the list, but I needed
to get the word out. Their phone number is (317)
290-6000.
Thanks.
> However --- according to the dyno runs done by our
European affiliates
> torque starts to drop at about 5000 RPM and HP
flattens at 5500 or so.
Please note, that at least mine is a 5 speed one
compared to the 6-speed
Stealths. I'm not sure about Mikael's 3000GT
:)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
03:32:16 1999
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From:
"=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Calculating injector size
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 12:31:45
+0100
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hi,
What formula shall be use to calculate injector
size???
The reason I ask is that my supplier of injectors
recomend me to use their 480cc/min (at 3 bar) and say that they will be perfect
on a 550 hp engine.
I have used (estimated HP*0.55)/(# of injectors*duty
cycle %)
(don't know what the "0.55" is but it shall be used on a
turbo engine)
this makes (550*0.55)/(6*0.8)=63 lbs/h and that is
~625cc/min
I also talked to another company and they say that you
shall calculate with 500cc/100hp and that is 458 cc for 550hp.
I know most of the fast guys are using 550 or 560 and
some are using 720 injectors. Depending on how you calculate the 720 injectors
are good for 640 to almost 900 hp.
What is the "right" way to calculate
this?
Even though the torque curve might be flattening out or
even dropping, you
want to find the point where, when you enter the next
gear, the new torque
equals the amount of torque in the previous gear at the
instant you shifted.
240 255 270 285 310
300 260
4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500
7000
|<------------------->|
The numbers are made up but illustrate the point, I
hope.
-Bob
> So the question is --- what shift point is the
best compromise between
> torque, HP and turbo spoolup??
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
04:47:43 1999
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<004b01be6706$6c0e6520$20d752a6@rtr>
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil on my transfer case
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:48:07
-0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sounds like it might be your rear main seal. This
can also cause oil to
contaminate your clutch. The shop should
have recommended replacing this
7.00 part when the tranny was out. If not,
they did you an injustice as the
tranny must be pulled again to replace
it.
>Changing oil the other day I discovered that
oil has been collecting along
the
>bottom of the transfer case. My
partner in crime, Dave Trent, commented
that
>it looked like it was
coming from somewhere near the top rear of the engine
>bay - the transfer
case being the lowest point for the oil to flow before
it
>drips away.
Next day I had the transaxle and transfer case fluid checked
at
a
>tranny shop - both full. Makes sense since the transaxle and
transfer case
>were replaced under warranty about 1 1/2 years
ago.
>
>The oil looks like it could be motor oil from the engine -
as far as my
>eyeball could tell. I did have to add about half a quart of
oil to the
engine
>recently. Dave tried to get a good look at the oil
fittings on the rear
turbo,
>but couldn't quite tell. The tech at the
tranny shop suggested checking the
>rear valve cover
gasket.
>
>The clutch has felt a bit funny lately. I thought it
might be fluid loss
from
>the clutch master cylinder. I checked the
clutch fluid reservoir - full. By
>the way the Mitsu owner's manual shows
the clutch fluid reservoir behind or
>below the Y-pipe at the final elbow
as it connects to the plenum. It is not
>there. It is just behind the
front left shock strut tower and just to the
left
>of the brake master
cyl. (visualise as if you were sitting in the car). I
must
>have poked
around under the Y-pipe for 15 minutes trying to locate an
>invisible
clutch reservoir.
>
>Anybody have any suggestions about what other
part of the engine I need to
>check?
>
>Just for my own curiosity -
where is the clutch master cylinder? Is it
hiding
>somewhere under the
big cover on the brake master cyl?
>
>By the way - anybody living in
or near Indianapolis who needs tranny work -
I
>HIGHLY recommend
Lafayette square AAMCO transmission (just north of 38th
and
>east of
465). My car's former owner got the runaround from THREE
Mitsu
dealers
>in the area before this AAMCO shop diagnosed the getrag
synchros going bad.
He
>had a Mitsu dealer ship a new transaxle and
transfer case to AAMCO and had
>them do the tranny swap. Mitsu then
inspected the work to continue the
>waranty.
>
>Doug Bailey,
the AAMCO owner, is a super nice guy. I called him up and he
>remembered
the car and previous owner. He was real busy but agreed to take
a
>look
at the car. The tech who installed the new tranny checked
everything
out.
>He was very thorough - even tried adding fluid to the
transfer case just to
be
>sure it was full. When he was done he talked
to me for awhile about his
>experience repairing the car and gave me some
suggestions for tracking down
>the oil leak.
>
>They didn't
charge me a penny so I told him I'd spread the word about their
>good
service. Sorry this doesn't apply to everybody on the list, but
I
needed
>to get the word out. Their phone number is (317)
290-6000.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Paul Klusman
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
04:57:22 1999
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From:
"Brent & Tara Maksymiw" <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil on my transfer case
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:02:48
-0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
During my last oil change before I put my car in
storage, I found a bit of
oil on the oil pan/transfer case. I found it
to be leaking from the gasket
between the oil pipe from the turbo and the oil
pan. My factory warranty
will cover it. Should be an easy fix
this spring.
Brent Maksymiw
The number .55 is brake-horsepower specific fuel
consumption. This is the
amount of fuel per horsepower consumed by an
engine at maximum HP presuming
"correct" mixture, expressed in
lbs/hr. Usually for turbo engines it is
.55-.60. For NA engibes
it is around 0.50.
480s are TOO SMALL for a 550 HP target. They'd be
maxed out for sure at
peak HP. You want to make sure there is about 20%
headroom for the
injectors since they can be more prone to failure if
operated for exteneded
periods of time beyond the 80% IDC point. Your
625 cc/min number is much
more likely closer to the better choice
IMO.
The right way to calculate this involves literally an
entire page worth of
math and even then it will only be an estimate without
knowing a few things
about the car that really can only be properly measured
on a dyno. The
formula (estimated HP*0.55)/(# of injectors*duty cycle
%) is a very good one
and generally accepted to be SAFELY accurate, which is
the real point.
Many people have successfully ran 550 cc injectors to
some impressive 1320'
times but we don't know the exact fuelpressure or flow
running through those
injecotrs. 625cc/min or better will be safe
without overkill.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
Hi,
>
> What formula shall be use to calculate injector
size???
>
> The reason I ask is that my supplier of injectors
recomend me to
> use their 480cc/min (at 3 bar) and say that they will be
perfect
> on a 550 hp engine.
>
> I have used (estimated
HP*0.55)/(# of injectors*duty cycle %)
> (don't know what the
"0.55" is but it shall be used on a turbo engine)
> this makes
(550*0.55)/(6*0.8)=63 lbs/h and that is ~625cc/min
>
> I also talked
to another company and they say that you shall
> calculate with
500cc/100hp and that is 458 cc for 550hp.
>
> When I use the
injector size calculation program on Greddy's site
> http://www.greddy.com/injectionsizer.html
the result for 550 hp
> and 6 injectors are 620 cc/min.
>
> I
know most of the fast guys are using 550 or 560 and some are
> using 720
injectors. Depending on how you calculate the 720
> injectors are good for
640 to almost 900 hp.
>
> What is the "right" way to
calculate this?
>
> /Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
07:35:58 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Calculating injector size
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 09:22:19
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hrmm, I would look into the 620CC
injectors.
I know I was at 100% injector duty cycle @ 16psi.
With 550's.
Hi,
What formula shall be use to calculate injector
size???
The reason I ask is that my supplier of injectors
recomend me to use their
480cc/min (at 3 bar) and say that they will be
perfect on a 550 hp engine.
I have used (estimated HP*0.55)/(# of injectors*duty
cycle %)
(don't know what the "0.55" is but it shall be used on a
turbo engine)
this makes (550*0.55)/(6*0.8)=63 lbs/h and that is
~625cc/min
I also talked to another company and they say that you
shall calculate with
500cc/100hp and that is 458 cc for 550hp.
I know most of the fast guys are using 550 or 560 and
some are using 720
injectors. Depending on how you calculate the 720
injectors are good for 640
to almost 900 hp.
What is the "right" way to calculate
this?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
09:11:46 1999
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Message-ID:
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From:
"Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Calculating injector size
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:14:31
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
RC Engineering's web site ( http://www.rceng.com/ ) under
Technical
Information has some calculations concerning HP and
flow rates you may
want to check out. They are also a great
source of information if you
want to call them at
310-320-2277.
>Hrmm, I would look into the 620CC
injectors.
>
>I know I was at 100% injector duty cycle @
16psi. With 550's.
>
>> Brad
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
10:18:27 1999
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From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Speed Bleeders and 3/S CD
Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 10:12:09
PST
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Is the URL for those nifty Speedbleeders. They are
located about 7 miles
from my house, and I just went there and picked up a
set when I
installed 3000gt SL brakes on my talon. They work GREAT and I
would
recommend them to anyone that doesn't have a honda :P.
Anyone get the 3/S CD yet? Any comments? I'm dying
here! :)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
10:43:05 1999
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed Bleeders and 3/S CD
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:42:57 -0800
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Guys,
I got the CD manuals yesterday in
the mail, 6 days after I sent in
the order. Everything went flawlessly,
and the CD is very well done. As
far as anyone who does mods or
maintenance on their car, this should be
their first "mod" (else
s/he should be flogged with a wet noodle). Even
though I have the
paper manual (honestly, I do!), this is far more useful
since it's searchable
and you can blow up the diagrams, no matter how small
they are in the
manual. Now I have to get another computer to put in my
garage:)
Nice job, Vineet- you kick a#$.
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire
mod
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
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Subject:
Team3S: 3/S decal
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What is the turn around time for the 3SI decal and
whatnot after sending
in you $8??
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: street race shift point
References: <001b01be66ae$d949fd00$f4be0118@cx221247-a.msnv1.occa.home.com>
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Bob Fontana wrote:
>
> Even though the
torque curve might be flattening out or even
> dropping, you want to find
the point where, when you enter the
> next gear, the new torque equals the
amount of torque in the
> previous gear at the instant you
shifted.
james berry wrote:
>
> according to the
dyno runs done by our European affiliates
> torque starts to drop at about
5000 RPM and HP flattens at
> 5500 or so. Shifting at these points
puts me in 2nd at a
> little under 3000 RPM --- not a good acceleration
range.
In my experience, 3000 RPM _is_ a good acceleration
range. Torque is as
high at 3000 RPM as it is at 5000 RPM and higher
than it is at 5500! I
normally shift at 5500 RPMs and it pulls very
strong in the next gear (6
speed).
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
> So the question is --- what shift point is the
best compromise between
> torque, HP and turbo spoolup??
I can compute it out.
I need to know the specs of your car, HP, torque,
gearbox (5 or 6), and any
mods you may have done...
Anyway, I'd think that the best shiftpoint from 1st to
2nd is extremely
likely to be redline (7000 rpm)
Henri
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
13:46:22 1999
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From:
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To: "'stealth@dragnet.com'" <stealth@dragnet.com>,
"'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 17" rims on a '95 base 3k
Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 13:46:06 -0800
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Ok guys, I have a question for yall, especially anyone
who may have done
this.
I'm considering putting the stock 17" rims from a
'91 VR-4 on my base 3K if
they will fit properly. I'd be putting
245/45/ZR17's on the rims, and I'm
wondering if the offset is correct and if
there would be any rubbing on the
struts or wheelwell. My car is
completely stock and has stock mudguards.
Anyone done this or know
definitively that the front steering/frame is the
same for all models?
I know the SLs started having 17's in '97, and I don't
think there were any
major changes mechanically then. My thinking: if 97's
didn't have
ECS and mine doesn't, and the mechanics are basically the same
between mine
and a '97SL, the 17's should fit on my base model. Then
there's the
question of whether the offset is the same between the '91 17"
VR-4
alloys and the '97+ 17" SL chromies. Answers, please?
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
+
soon to be non-resonatorless for reasons explained
earlier
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 5
13:54:03 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: street race shift point
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I redline 1 and 2 and 3 gets a little earlier like 65 ,
6600
Xannieria
3SI #130
Sorry again...
OGRacing carries AutoPower, but apparently doesn't list
specific
applications on their website, or in their catalog for that matter.
Call
them at 1-800-934-9112, ask for Bob - he's the guy I talked
to.
-Ed
I too am in the market for a roll bar. A four
point cage to be exact for my
'92 TT to
meet the
requirements for the
130mph class in the Silver State Classic (Nevada -
September).
I
want
a cage with two rear kickers and a horizontal cross bar to attach a
five
point safety
harness.
Fein, Edward wrote:
> Autopower actually makes bolt-in cages for our
cars. Try OGRacing
> (http://www.ogracing.com) - I got a quote of
just over $400 from them for
> one.
> That's just over $400 for a road-race _bar_, not a
full cage. Full cages
will run you
> more, obviously.
I was not able to locate a listing for 3/S applications
anywhere. Does
OGRacing make
custom
cages upon request? I
know some 3/S cars have competed in the past at
high
speeds
including
John Hennessey (most known for his Viper Venom
packages) who topped out at
187 mph.
Many
of you may recall that John
used to cater to 3/S cars several moons ago.
I just want a tasteful cage that doesn't tear up my
interior. Any insight
would be
appreciated.
Bob Fontana wrote:
> you want to find the point where, when you enter
the next gear, the new torque
> equals the amount of torque in the
previous gear at the instant you shifted.
>
> 240 255
270 285 310 300 260
> 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000
6500 7000
>
|<------------------->|
>
One point to add to the above analysis is that you need
to factor in your transaxle
gearing. Bob's statement that you want
torque before shift to equal torque after
shift is correct but remember that
your changing your torque multiplication when
you shift.
Hypothetical example: Car makes 200 ft lbs at
6000 rpm in first gear (3.00 gear
reduction). Torque is then 600 ft
lbs. Now lets say second gear is 1.5, this means
your new engine speed
will be 3000 rpm. If the car happens to make 400 ft lbs at
3000 rpm,
you've made an optimum shift.
1st to 2nd shift
200 * 6000 = 400 * 3000 = near
optimum shift
If your before and after torques are not equal, you
either shifted to soon or to late.
Several generalizations were made above, but this
hopefully gives you a better idea
of optimum shift points. Because
gearing isn't linear, the optimum shift point will
be different for every
gear. Most cars would benefit with a shift at red line in
at
least
first gear, since first gear is so low (numerically high), unless
torque drops way off
before then or if second gear is close to first (example
1st gear = 3.0, 2nd gear
= 2.4). You really need to perform a dyno run
to get your shift points for each gear.
If you're one of the lucky ones who have had their cars
dynoed, simply take your
torque curve and graph torque at the wheel vs
vehicle speed for each gear. The
points where each gear crosses the
other would determine your shift point. Shifting
in this fashion will
put the highest torque available at all times to the road, and give
you the fastest times. (It is fairly simple to
calculate engine speed if you know your
gearing, tire size, and vehicle
speed)
As I said earlier, there are other variables to
consider: such as it takes a finite
amount
of time to shift
during which you decelerate, falling off boost, etc. Most of
these
tend
to favor staying in gear slightly past the optimum
point.
Hope some of this made sense.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 6
06:56:41 1999
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From:
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To:
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil on my transfer case
Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 08:52:01
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IT could be coming from anywhere. It can be blown
all over. I found the
same leak in mine (motor oil dripping down
from the x-fer case). It was a
bad rear main seal. $530 at
Mits.
Brain
Changing oil the other day I discovered that oil has
been collecting along
the
bottom of the transfer case. My partner in
crime, Dave Trent, commented
that
it looked like it was coming from
somewhere near the top rear of the engine
bay - the transfer case being the
lowest point for the oil to flow before
it
drips away. Next day I had the
transaxle and transfer case fluid checked at
a
tranny shop - both full.
Makes sense since the transaxle and transfer case
were replaced under
warranty about 1 1/2 years ago.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 7
17:40:32 1999
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To:
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Date:
Mon, 8 Mar 1999 19:37:15 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Removal of factory air
conditioning
Message-ID: <19990308.193715.11534.0.PEARLVR42C@juno.com>
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From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
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A friend and I are looking into yanking out the A.C.
system in order to
shave a few unwanted pounds. I havn't started yet
but through working on
his we have hit a snag. We have removed
everything except for the
condensor. It seems that it has to stay in
there as it has a pulley on
it that turns an accessory belt. Does
anybody know of a way to bypass
this pulley without hurting anything? Maybe
shorter belt(s) a dummy
pulley that will fill in when the condensor is
gone? Any ideas would be
great.
Thanks,
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 7
18:32:44 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Removal of factory air conditioning
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999
20:18:52 -0600
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I am going to assume you mean compressor and not
condenser.
If memory serves me correctly, you should be able to remove the
AC
compressor, use a smaller belt and still use the tensioner.
Some creative
routing of the belt may happen, but this is
unlikely.
A friend and I are looking into yanking out the A.C.
system in order to
shave a few unwanted pounds. I havn't started yet
but through working on
his we have hit a snag. We have removed
everything except for the
condensor. It seems that it has to stay in
there as it has a pulley on
it that turns an accessory belt. Does
anybody know of a way to bypass
this pulley without hurting anything? Maybe
shorter belt(s) a dummy
pulley that will fill in when the condensor is
gone? Any ideas would be
great.
Thanks,
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 7
18:36:20 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"stealth" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Active Aero wing for free/trade/
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 20:22:43
-0600
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Hey everyone, I am wanting to delete my Active Aero
wing.
What I need:
Someone with a pearl white car (1991/92 color)
With a base Stealth or 3000.
(with no wing)
I may consider using a Stealth
with the Taco wing hatch, I just would need
to see how difficult it is to
remove the wing.
I want to swap the whole rear hatch for a hatch that
does not have a wing.
Any takers?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 7
19:07:35 1999
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Re: Team3S: Removal of factory air conditioning
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I agree that a shorter belt should work. But if
you haven't already
disconnected the hoses, please go to a shop and have them
reclaim the
refrigerant.
We really need to keep this in mind when we or those we
know work on AC
systems.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 7
19:33:10 1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Is the mail server down?
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 16:13:13
-0600
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This is a test as there has been no Team3S mail in
over a day.
Brent
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 7
19:48:23 1999
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From:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Removal of factory air conditioning
Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999
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>I agree that a shorter belt should work. But
if you haven't already <snip>
I would be cautious of doing this for long periods of
time. I did this
successfully at the track with one of my previous cars
without a problem.
After a while I got lazy and decided to leave the shorter
belt on all the
time. I had a bearing go on the next assessory in line
after the air
compressor within 800kms. It may have been coincidence,
but it could have
been due to increased side loading on the bearing due to
the sharper angles
the shorter belt made. I had another friend with the
same car that
experienced this as well. Note: This car had an
auto belt tensioner, so
the belt tension with the shorter belt was not
increased.
Brent Maksymiw
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 7
19:50:04 1999
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Date:
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Brent,
At least there is not the flame war to put up with like
there is on the
Stealth@dragnet list.
Regards,
Lynn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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From:
"Bill Davis" <b-davis@primary.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc:
<stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Smoked by a ZR1
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 07:42:41 -0600
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That's right folks, smoked, not once, not twice, but
three times.
Here's how it went. I was at the gas station, just got
done filling up, =
when up pulls
a nice looking red ZR1. I looked at him,
he looked at me, I went on =
about my business.
Next thing I know there a
voice from behind introducing himself to me.
At any rate he's pretty cool, asked if I wanted to
race, without =
hesitation I said sure.
I asked where, he said,(St. Louis
guys) Manchester Rd. out by wild horse =
creek rd.
He then said he wanted
to go from a punch, so he knew what I had on him.
On the way out there we open road, he nodded me on, I
jumped on it, =
pulled about a=20
car length, I could hear his tires
squealing, and he blew by me. We did =
this two more
times, and then he
pulled over, came back to my car, I asked him what =
mods he had,
he said
only a exhaust system, similar the Borla cat back for my car.
He then told me the stock H.P. of his car 405, claimed
it to be a 30K =
Lotus option engine
available for the Vette.
He also
claimed to have run low 12's with it, at a local track, with =
different
tires on it.
He said the window sticker was over 70K.
Still a nice guy, claimed he's never been beat by a
VR-4.
Does anyone know, should I have been able to run with
him?
Ever heard of this engine option?
I think it's time for some
mods.
By the way, I'm at ~59K right now, the water pump,
timing belt, and all =
of that stuff
has already been replaced, but my
plugs have nearly 60K on them.
My only mod is a K&N
FIPK.
Feelin pretty low Bill Davis 95 VR-4
------=_NextPart_000_0038_01BE6937.3ED951E0
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>That's
right folks, smoked, not =
once, not twice,=20
but three
times.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Here's how it went. I was at the gas
=
station,=20
just got done filling up, when up
pulls</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>a nice looking red ZR1. I looked at =
him, he=20
looked at me,
I went on about my business.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Next thing I know there a voice from
=
behind=20
introducing himself to
me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>At any rate he's pretty cool, asked =
if I
wanted=20
to race, without hesitation I said
sure.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>I asked where, he said,(St. Louis =
guys)=20
Manchester Rd.
out by wild horse creek rd.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>He then said he wanted to go from a =
punch, so
he=20
knew what I had on him.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>On the way out there we open road, =
he nodded
me=20
on, I jumped on it, pulled about a
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>car
length, I could hear his tires =
squealing,=20
and he blew by me. We did
this two more</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>times, and then he pulled over, came =
back to my=20
car, I
asked him what mods he had,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>he said only a exhaust system, =
similar the
Borla=20
cat back for my car.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>He then told me the stock H.P. of =
his car
405,=20
claimed it to be a 30K Lotus option
engine</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>available for the
=
Vette.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>He also claimed to have run low 12's =
with it, at=20
a local
track, with different tires on
it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>He said the =
window
sticker=20
was over 70K.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Still a nice guy, claimed he's never =
been
beat=20
by a
VR-4.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anyone know, should I have been =
able to
run=20
with him?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ever heard of this engine
=
option?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>I think it's time for some
=
mods.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>By the way, I'm at ~59K right now, the water pump,
=
timing=20
belt, and all of that
stuff</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>has already
been replaced, but my plugs have nearly =
60K
on=20
them.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My
only mod is a K&N
FIPK.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Feelin pretty low Bill Davis
95=20
VR-4</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
09:22:29 1999
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From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: sock turbo's
Date: Mon, 08 Mar 1999 09:22:24 PST
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HELP!!!
I bought a set of stock turbo's off a guy,
abut they haven't gotten here
(sent out two weeks ago USPS). I need a set by
the end of the week, or
the garage that has my Stealth is going to start
charging me rent to
store the car. I can only afford $400 (that's with
the seller paying
shipping I need to have them by friday) I feel like
such a chimp doing
this, but whomever can sell me a set and have them to me
in NJ by friday
afternoon will be in my eternal gratitude. I guess Im
going to send
back the other set if they ever get here, and pay the shipping
back to
the guy. Oh yeah, obviosly they can't have shaft play or
broken blades,
because the shop is attemping to void my warrenty (on the new
engine I
had installed my them) if I don't replace my totally ruined turbo's
with
good ones (they originally wouldn't install used ones without them
being
flowbenched and rebuilt) so I really need a set that looks like they
are
in great shape.
Sorry to whine in front of you guys, but this is
such a rotten situation
with this car, a never ending problem and money
pit.
Nathan Crisman
1030 Rt 94
Blairstown,
NJ
07825
Hello everyone,
I just had my getrag trans rebuilt
by Buschur Racing and it was sucessful. I was having problems with 2nd and 4th
gears. 2nd gear was only a problem if I shifted quickly, but it prevented me
from racing. 4th I had to baby and usually bypassed it and went directly to
5th.
First off let me say that the trans is rebuildable, it comes apart
easily, once you know the trick. At the back of the trans is a black plug,
remove this and inside is an allen screw. Removing the allen screw and this
allows you to remove the back cover which give you access to the gear
assemblies. Dan Buschur, who performed the rebuild, showed me how the synchro's
operated and what I needed. I had purchased the synchro's from Jack T. earlier
but also needed a 2nd gear and a couple of bearings. Thanks to Frank at Kormax
for getting the bearings and a 2nd gear. He had new bearings, but only used
gears. I wasn't happy about using a used gear, but I couldn't seem to locate a
new one. I sent an e-mail to this Max at NYMaxxNY but never got a response back.
Also tried to locate a Trico which supposely had parts and rebuilt getrags out
of Brooklyn but was unsucessful. The gear Kormax sent was better than mine, but
it was worn. As Dan showed me, the way the synchro's engage if your 1s!
t or
2nd becomes worn, chances are you'll need a gear also. However, on 3rd and 4th
the gear teeth don't wear, due to how those engage. Dan had rebuilt lots of dsm
trans. and said the trans was well built but a pain. The pain comes from the
springloaded ball bearings within the synchros, trying to put them in after they
pop out while assembling. That aside, I was there as Dan assembled the trans and
it didn't seem to be that difficult, Dan might have a different view however. I
had a new centerforce installed while the trans was out and also upgraded my
fuel system and exhaust. I'm now ready for turbos, which will be next after I
put in my boost controller. Dan put the trans back in and Success!!! The car
shifts great, no more grinding in 2nd or 4th at any speed. Time to hit the track
and see what she's running, hopefully at least high 12's with the stock turbo's
on race fuel.
Oh yeah, cost for the rebuild including the bearings, 2nd
gear, and 1,2,3,4 synchros came to under 1k but your price might vary, Dan
wasn't too interested in doing another, the biggest pain he says is getting the
trans out, it took about 4 hrs to remove it, whereas he can do a clutch change
in a awd dsm in 1 1/2 hrs. start to finish.
One final thing, Dan can get
brand-new trans for around 2k I think it was $2200. This is factory new not a
rebuilt, something to keep in mind.
Buschur Racing, located in Wakeman,OH
about 40min. outside Cleveland
440-839-1900 Dan said he would be more
interested in working on non-turbo's.
Hope this helps
Bryan
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
11:27:26 1999
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Re: Team3S: sock turbo's
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Nathan, I have a set of the stock turbos off my 91
VR-4. I upgraded to 15G
turbos.
I can sell & deliver the set to
you for $270.00 ($250 + $20 shipping) I can
ship Tues AM from NYC. Will get
to you in about 1-2 days. These were working
fine when I took them off. Had
about 80K miles on them but really worked
perfectly.
I also have 2 almost new 15G TEC turbos $1500+ $20
shipping. I'm upgrading
again to much larger units for track use.
Either,
your choice...Let me know fast If you want shipping immediately!
Arty 91
VR-4
<< Subj: Team3S: sock
turbo's
Date: 3/8/99 9:33:58 AM Pacific Standard Time
From: spyder_talon@hotmail.com (Nathan
Crisman)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
HELP!!!
I
bought a set of stock turbo's off a guy, abut they haven't gotten here
(sent out two weeks ago USPS). I need a set by the end of the week, or
the garage that has my Stealth is going to start charging me rent to
store the car. I can only afford $400 (that's with the seller
paying
shipping I need to have them by friday) I feel like such
a chimp doing
this, but whomever can sell me a set and have them to me
in NJ by friday
afternoon will be in my eternal gratitude. I
guess Im going to send
back the other set if they ever get here, and
pay the shipping back to
the guy. Oh yeah, obviosly they can't
have shaft play or broken blades,
because the shop is attemping to
void my warrenty (on the new engine I
had installed my them) if I
don't replace my totally ruined turbo's with
good ones (they
originally wouldn't install used ones without them being
flowbenched
and rebuilt) so I really need a set that looks like they are
in great
shape.
Sorry to whine in front of you guys, but
this is such a rotten situation
with this car, a never ending problem
and money pit.
Nathan Crisman
1030 Rt
94
Blairstown, NJ
07825
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Smoked by a ZR1
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 12:27:54 -0800
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
<snip>
Does anyone know, should I
have been able to run with him?
Ever heard of this engine option?
I think
it's time for some mods.
<snip>
Feelin pretty
low Bill Davis 95 VR-4
==============================
Bill...
Don't feel too bad,
half the thrill is the race itself. I don't know about
the engine you
referred to, but keep in mind that some people don't tell
the
"whole" story about their mods.
When you get ready
for those mods, check out Chien's page at
"nexusmotorsports". He
outlines a clear staged mods path. Also keep in mind
the learning from Roger
and friends in Europe who just did dyno work on
three TTs. It appears it may
be worth doing the injectors and fuel pump
before anything else!!!
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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Date:
Mon, 08 Mar 1999 12:31:50 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Smoked by a ZR1
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> That's right folks, smoked, not once, not twice,
but three times.
The ZR1 IS very powerful ! I drove it once and wish to
have this engine in my
Z28 ;-)
> He then told me the stock H.P. of his car 405,
claimed it to be a 30K Lotus
> option engine available for the
Vette.
I don't know what the Lotus option should be but stock
SAE hp is around the 400
horses. The Borla does give the car more punch in
the upper region.
> Does anyone know, should I have been able to run
with him?
With your stock setup and K&N you're 1/4 would be
low 14 to high 13 and his is
in the 12's. So you had no chance.
> By the way, I'm at ~59K right now, the water pump,
timing belt, and all of
> that stuff has already been replaced, but my
plugs have nearly 60K on them.
The usual 60k service should contain the plugs. Replace
them now and gap them
around 0.034 for your future boost of around 14.2 psi.
Then install a good boost
controller of your choice to go to this
level.
With this mod you'll have a good chance to go into the
lower 13's region but you
have to get familiar with the new behaivour the car
first :)
Good luck,
Roger, Switzerland
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
12:35:39 1999
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From: dave <monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu>
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noticably, very little..
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Subject:
Team3S: K&N oil filters
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I know this was recently discussed, but I thought I'd
give everyone a quick
fyi.. I picked up a K&N gold performance (or
somesuch name) oil filter
yesterday at Checker Auto Parts.. I believe
there are other stores around
the country under different names like Kragen
(I think), etc..
anyway, the reason I felt compelled to share, was that
I called Checker and
they told me they didn't carry them.. well, I went
in anyway to pick up some
Mobil 1 15/50 and low and behold, there they
were.. $10.. same as Mobil 1
filters.. (btw, I
did the flush and switch to Mobil 1.. still a little
ticking
at
startup until you bring up the rpms, but much better..)
Dave
91 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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Mon, 08 Mar 1999 12:39:25 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need new brake rotors & pads
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Well it is time for new front rotors & pads for my
'91 VR4. I want to
upgrade without going into the $1000+ realm. I
do plan on attending
road course track events two or three times a
year. I may use a street
pad most of the time and use a race pad at the
track, or just use a race
pad all the time. All advice &
recomendations welcome.
This is what I've read in the past:
Porterfield: Great pads & rotors. Pads
seem to last the longest for
track usage. Has anyone used their
cross-drilled or cryogenically
treated rotors? Right now I'm leaning
toward these with their street or
maybe race pad.
Powerslots: Rich busted one of these rotors at
the track which makes me
apprehensive. Other than that, they have been
recommended others.
Stillen: I just went through a set of Metal
Matrix pads in half a day
at the track, (hence the reason for this
post). I've also heard that
the rotors aren't the best.
Bremsa: Roger & Mikael are using these with
pagid pads. Roger has
hinted that he still gets a little pulsation from
warping. Probably out
of my price range anyway.
Brembo: Out of my price range
Porsche GT2: I want these, but out of my price
range (maybe when I get
a '94+ :)).
Thanks in advance,
Ken
--
At 12:39 PM 3/8/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Well it is
time for new front rotors & pads for my '91 VR4. I want
to
>upgrade without going into the $1000+ realm. I do plan on
attending
>road course track events two or three times a year. I may
use a street
>pad most of the time and use a race pad at the track, or
just use a race
>pad all the time. All advice & recomendations
welcome.
>
I suggest you upgrade to 94+ rotors and calipers, at
least on the front.
The rotor is a little bigger.
I'm not sure what all
is involved -- maybe it's a real simple bolt on.
I can't give you an update
on my new Powerslots and Performance Friction
carbon metallic pads until
after the first event at Topeka in April.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 13:20:39 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Need new brake rotors & pads
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>
> This is what I've read in the
past:
>
> Porterfield: Great pads & rotors. Pads
seem to last the longest for
> track usage. Has anyone used their
cross-drilled or cryogenically
> treated rotors? Right now I'm
leaning toward these with their
street or
> maybe race
pad.
My experience with Poterfield products is very
satisfactory. When I
use to have stock calipers I bought a set of R4
(race) and R4s
(street) from them. But I notice their pads has noticeablly
smaller
surface area than stock ones (i have a '92 RT TT). Other from
that,
the pads worked great on the street and on the track. After I
upgrade
to Brembos I still use Porterfield pads, its the pad for F-40!
As
for the rotors, my Stillen/Brembo rotors cracked after 3 weekends
at a road
course. I went to Porterfield and got a stock '94 (bigger
than my '92
stock and also bigger then the Brembo/Stillen and alot
cheaper too!) They
pre-treated and cross-drilled it. The
cross-drilling looked
magnificent!! better than the Stillen/Brembo
cross-drills... one other
thing.. they claim their R4 (race pads) are
streetable, no need to heat up,
and rotor-friendly... plus long wear!!
but I just use the R4s (street) for
regular driving.. oh yea, they
also throw in some Motul racing brake fluids
for free everytime I'm
there! =)
George
p.s. I just got to meet Roger (Mr.
Swiss) last sat. Nice finally to
meet someone from the list.. all this
chatting thru email makes me
want to see what everyone look like! Hope you
like the Chinese food
Roger.. its not too hardcore is it??
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Smoked by a ZR1
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 15:38:25
-0600
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> > He then told me the stock H.P. of his car
405, claimed it to be
> > a 30K Lotus option engine available for the
Vette.
> I don't know what the Lotus option should be but
stock SAE hp is
> around the 400 horses. The Borla does give the car more
punch
> in the upper region.
By "Lotus option" he probably meant the ZR1
motor, which was
designed by Lotus for GM and manufactured by Mercury
Marine.
> With your stock setup and K&N you're 1/4 would
be low 14 to high
> 13 and his is in the 12's. So you had no
chance.
The odds would be better right after a nice rain.
;-)
-Matt
If you do, dont plan on putting your 17" wheels
back on the car.... Don't
ask me how i know this.........
Wayne
At 03:12 PM 3/8/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I suggest you upgrade to 94+ calipers, at least on
the front.
>
>Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Yep he was right. The ZRI has a Lotus designed 4
cam, 32 valve V8. A
couple of years ago I took my VR4 to Laguna Seca
for a hot lapping day. A
ZR1 with slicks was the only car able to blow
by me. Don't feel too bad :(
<< File: ATT00000.html >> That's
right folks, smoked, not once, not twice,
but three times.
Here's how it went. I was at the gas station, just got
done filling up,
when up pulls
a nice looking red ZR1. I looked at him,
he looked at me, I went on about
my business.
Next thing I know there a
voice from behind introducing himself to me.
At any rate he's pretty cool, asked if I wanted to
race, without hesitation
I said sure.
I asked where, he said,(St. Louis
guys) Manchester Rd. out by wild horse
creek rd.
He then said he wanted
to go from a punch, so he knew what I had on him.
On the way out there we open road, he nodded me on, I
jumped on it, pulled
about a
car length, I could hear his tires
squealing, and he blew by me. We did
this two more
times, and then he
pulled over, came back to my car, I asked him what mods
he had,
he said
only a exhaust system, similar the Borla cat back for my car.
He then told me the stock H.P. of his car 405, claimed
it to be a 30K Lotus
option engine
available for the Vette.
He also
claimed to have run low 12's with it, at a local track, with
different tires
on it.
He said the window sticker was over 70K.
Still a nice guy, claimed he's never been beat by a
VR-4.
Does anyone know, should I have been able to run with
him?
Ever heard of this engine option?
I think it's time for some
mods.
By the way, I'm at ~59K right now, the water pump,
timing belt, and all of
that stuff
has already been replaced, but my
plugs have nearly 60K on them.
My only mod is a K&N
FIPK.
Feelin pretty low Bill Davis 95 VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
18:12:48 1999
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Date:
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Team3S: What class would 3/S cars run in?
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I am curious what class would the 3/S cars run in at a
sanctioned race?
The answer to this may also be the answer to my more basic
question: why
don't we see more 3/S cars running in sports car races like the
24hrs of
Daytona or Sebring or other well known sports car races?? I
see other
DSM cars in them and all of the cars mentioned here as competition
for
our cars, but why no 3KGTs or Stealths??
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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Message-ID: <36E489EF.E15EB148@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Mon, 08 Mar 1999 18:39:43 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need new brake rotors & pads
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> Powerslots: Rich busted one of these rotors
at the track which makes me
> apprehensive. Other than that, they
have been recommended others.
>
> Stillen: I just went
through a set of Metal Matrix pads in half a day
> at the track, (hence
the reason for this post). I've also heard that
> the rotors aren't
the best.
The Powerslots and Stillen seem to be about the same
quality. The only thing
that I can say is that with slotted rotors you are
getting about 20% more wear
on the pads (of course, depends on how you
stop).
> Bremsa: Roger & Mikael are using these
with pagid pads. Roger has
> hinted that he still gets a little
pulsation from warping. Probably out
> of my price range
anyway.
Yeah, they are out of the price range as shipping would
be too high. The Pagids
are ok and after they remachined the rotors the
warped feeling is gone, almost.
This because the Pagid pads do work good when
temperature raises over 0°C. Of
course breaking one time and this is it
but when driving on the highway on temps
below 0°C they cool down and
when then braking slowly they give the warped
feeling until they are heated
up after 2 or 3 seconds.
> Porsche GT2: I want these, but out of my
price range (maybe when I get
> a '94+ :)).
You do need larger calipers for them :/
> I just got to meet Roger (Mr. Swiss) last sat.
Nice finally to
> meet someone from the list.. all this chatting thru
email makes me
> want to see what everyone look like! Hope you like the
Chinese food
> Roger.. its not too hardcore is it??
Hehe, it depends what and... I'm still alive
:-)
Hope to see more members soon.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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Mon, 8 Mar 1999 18:51:43 -0800
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need new brake rotors & pads
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 19:52:54
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I've had KVR cross drilled rotors on my '94 for over a
year and am very
happy with them. Combined with KVR carbon metallic
pads, these rotors have
worked very well. The pads are prone to
producing more dust than stock if
that is a concern, but I think that will be
the case with most pads that are
more performance than street
oriented. They tend to squeal a bit until
warmed up (goes away
after the first few stops) and work best when hot.
They easily haul the car
down from 140+ without noticable fade. More
importantly, the rotors
don't seem to warp. My stock ones warped after
every high speed slow
down causing all sorts of unnerving shuddering and
shaking. They'd go
back to more or less normal after another high intensity
stop. Go
figure. Anyway, I haven't had the KVRs on a road course so I
don't know
how well they'd hold up under continuous abuse.
I don't know how they'd be on the smaller rotors of a
pre-94 though, but
based on the improvement over my stock rotors and pads I
don't see why they
wouldn't work. KVR also sells slotted rotors.
The price was great too. I
think someone else on the list may have had
some trouble with their KVR
rotors, but mine have held up very well.
The ones I received are cast iron
so they do show surface rust like all cast
iron rotors do, but cast iron is
great for stopping power.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
Well it is time for new front rotors & pads for my '91 VR4. I want
to
> upgrade without going into the $1000+ realm. I do plan on
attending
> road course track events two or three times a year. I
may use a street
> pad most of the time and use a race pad at the track,
or just use a race
> pad all the time. All advice &
recomendations welcome.
<snipped>
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
Ken
Roger Gerl wrote:
> With your stock setup and K&N you're 1/4 would
be low 14 to high 13 and his is
> in the 12's. So you had no
chance.
>
> > By the way, I'm at ~59K right now, the water pump,
timing belt, and all of
> > that stuff has already been replaced, but
my plugs have nearly 60K on them.
>
> The usual 60k service should
contain the plugs. Replace them now and gap them
> around 0.034 for your
future boost of around 14.2 psi. Then install a good boost
> controller of
your choice to go to this level.
>
> With this mod you'll have a
good chance to go into the lower 13's region but you
> have to get
familiar with the new behaivour the car first :)
The only thing I disagree with is 1/4 mile
times. I have a 94 VR4, essentially
identicle to the 95. With 88k
miles on my original plugs and wires, and only a Weapon-R
filter I was able
to run 13.64 with 'quick slip' launches. With dump clutch launches
I
ran 13.36@102.54, my 60' was 1.963
because I was spinning. I'm confident that I could
have run 13.2 with a
better launch. I've now gutted my cats, and added NGK plugs and
Accel
wires, I'm hoping for high 12s. I no longer feel the stumbles I fealt with
the
original plugs and wires, and for good reason. My plug gaps had
opened up to .045 or
worse.
Next time someone challenges you to a
race, you pick the course and specifics, or
atleast come to a
compromise. It's amazing how quickly Mustang owners shy away from
races
on wet road courses. It's very common and most annoying when my friends
with
Mustangs challenge me to a race, then want to dictate how it will be
done. Sounds like
he was a nice guy, but he took away your biggest
advantage, and his biggest disadvantage
by wanting only a roll start.
It might have been surpisingly close had you done a true
1/4 mile run,
especially being that it's gonna be most difficult for him to launch
perfect
every time.
Better luck next time,
Jason
p.s. Wonder what you could do with a VR4 ($45k)
plus $25k, for a total of
$70k................
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Smoked by a ZR1
Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 22:05:06
-0700
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A properly driven ZR1 can pull off low 12s, but getting
a decent launch on
street tires on normal asphalt is kind of tough. And
yeah, the rollon
definitely gave the ZR1 the advantage but even then 1 second
(or more) over
the 1320' is a big difference. The ZR1 guy evidently
knew this it seems. I
think the VR4 would have had a fair chance of
beating the ZR1 for maybe an
1/8th but I'd have to give the nod to the ZR1
stock for stock over the
1320'. They are damn fast cars with more HP
and fewer pounds.
A modified VR4 is a whole other ball game...your VR4 +
25K would put the ZR1
on the trailer no problem, even with snoozing at the
wheel if you so chose
;)
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> The only thing I disagree with is 1/4
mile times. I have a 94
> VR4, essentially
> identicle to the
95.
<snip>
> Better luck next time,
>
Jason
>
> p.s. Wonder what you could do with a VR4 ($45k) plus
$25k, for a total of
> $70k................
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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If you would like to back me i would gladly do it,
especially since i am not
to far from sebring or daytona
8)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 8
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Yeah, I wasn't suggesting that he probably would
have won, might not have been so one
sided though :P
"Barry E. King" wrote:
> A properly driven ZR1 can pull off low 12s, but
getting a decent launch on
> street tires on normal asphalt is kind of
tough. And yeah, the rollon
> definitely gave the ZR1 the advantage
but even then 1 second (or more) over
> the 1320' is a big
difference. The ZR1 guy evidently knew this it seems. I
>
think the VR4 would have had a fair chance of beating the ZR1 for maybe
an
> 1/8th but I'd have to give the nod to the ZR1 stock for stock over
the
> 1320'. They are damn fast cars with more HP and fewer
pounds.
>
> A modified VR4 is a whole other ball game...your VR4 +
25K would put the ZR1
> on the trailer no problem, even with snoozing at
the wheel if you so chose
> ;)
>
> Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
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Subject:
Team3S: Re: What class would 3/S cars run in?
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William Lynn Larsen wrote:
> what class would 3/S
run in at sanctioned race?
> basic question: why don't see 3/S cars
running sports car races/24hrs
> Daytona or Sebring etc?
other
> DSM cars in them, all cars mentioned as competition for
>
ours, why no 3KGT/Stealth?
Because there are few if any classes for AWD cars;
turbo cars with 3+ liters; ours are heavy with little part
availability
and no factory race effort (unlike Porsche, BMW, Ferrari,
Chevrolet,
even Toyota/Supra). I checked rules for 24hrs Daytona and it
LOOKED
like it would not fit in any class. I could be
wrong.
A Stealth DID win in class at Pike's Peak Hillclimb
some years back, and
it MAY have been 2 years; Ed Arnold Racing's car; it is
green, and can
be seen in TEC Turbo Company advertisements in Turbo Magazine
(a shot
from above, has a 3000 wing on it).
Haven't really seen Supras either.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
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From:
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To:
"Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark plugs
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 08:05:03 -0700
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I noticed that Chien at Nexus is selling spark plugs in
1,2, or 3 ranges
colder than stock. Does anybody on this list use
colder plugs? I noticed a
comment on his web page about colder plugs
more prone to fouling in rich
conditions. Since a VPC with 550
injectors (my current setup) are already
prone to fouling plugs, would
it be recommended to use colder plugs?
Thanks
A colder plug than necessary will tend to foul more
readily under varied
conditions like street driving. For race
applications the colder plug can
stave off detonation a bit IF the stock heat
range needs to be changed in
the first place. A colder plug where it is
not needed is not good and can
rob some power.
I have a set of one range colder plugs which I intend
to use at the rare
track event, but for street purposes I run the stock
plugs. I tried one
range colder last year and did not like them for the
street. They tended to
crap out puttering about town unless the car was
being run hard.
BTW, did you notice the price of those suckers?
$150 for a set of
plugs...ouch.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I
noticed that Chien at Nexus is selling spark plugs in 1,2, or 3 ranges
>
colder than stock. Does anybody on this list use colder plugs?
> I
noticed a
> comment on his web page about colder plugs more prone to
fouling in rich
> conditions. Since a VPC with 550 injectors (my
current setup)
> are already
> prone to fouling plugs, would it be
recommended to use colder plugs?
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
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Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 10:27:25 -0500
(EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spark plugs
In-Reply-To: <004f01be6a40$d7edf520$0500a8c0@beast.kingdom.com>
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That's what my local dealer wanted for a set of OEM
plugs. Needless to
say, I hopped in my car and drove up the road and
got 'em for MUCH less...
Experience is something you don't get until just after
you need it.
On Tue, 9 Mar 1999, Barry E. King
wrote:
[snip]
>
> BTW, did you notice the price of those
suckers? $150 for a set of
> plugs...ouch.
>
[snip]
Yeah, stock heat range NGK double platinums can be had
for less than $10
ea., but that's usually from large distributors. Some
places want $15-20
for them it seems.
A local dealer actually sold the second last set to me
for $66. Not bad.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> That's
what my local dealer wanted for a set of OEM plugs. Needless to
>
say, I hopped in my car and drove up the road and got 'em for MUCH
less...
>
> Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
>
> Experience
is something you don't get until just after you need it.
>
> On Tue,
9 Mar 1999, Barry E. King wrote:
> [snip]
> >
> > BTW,
did you notice the price of those suckers? $150 for a set of
> >
plugs...ouch.
> >
> [snip]
At 07:45 AM 3/9/99 -0600, you wrote:
>William
Lynn Larsen wrote:
>> what class would 3/S run in at sanctioned
race?
>> basic question: why don't see 3/S cars running sports car
races/24hrs
>> Daytona or Sebring etc? other
>> DSM
cars in them, all cars mentioned as competition for
>> ours, why no
3KGT/Stealth?
>
>
I think a base 3000GT is eligible for the
American Classic (?) series of
sedan road races sponsored by Motorola. The
races have showroom stock cars
in two classes: Class I has vettes, vipers,
911s, and Saleen Mustangs;
Class II has FWD cars, like Hondas and stuff. I'm
not sure which class the
3000GT is in.
As I recall, one ran in the series early last year, but
I haven't seen it
since.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
09:00:58 1999
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From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
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Subject:
Team3S: Eibach Springs
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 09:00:53 PST
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Does anyone know if Eibach lowering springs for the
VR-4/TT will fit on
the Spyder VR-4? I know they should but I wanted
to make sure.
Thanks,
Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
09:44:58 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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Re: Team3S: Need new brake rotors & pads
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> I've had KVR cross drilled rotors on my '94
for over a year and am very
> happy with them. Combined with KVR
carbon metallic pads, these rotors have
> worked very well.
So where do you buy KVR from? I could find
anything on the web.
--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
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Date:
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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A repair shop told me they paid $23 ea for them at the
dealer and I have
never been back! Maybe I was too quick to
judgement.
Regards,
Lynn #0232
Barry E. King wrote:
> Some places want
$15-20 ea for them it seems.
>
>
>Dennis Moore
wrote:
> > That's what my local dealer wanted for a set of OEM
plugs. Needless
> > to say, I hopped in my car and drove up the
road and got 'em for MUCH
> > less...
> >
> > On Tue,
9 Mar 1999, Barry E. King wrote:
> > >
> > > BTW, did
you notice the price of those suckers? $150 for a set of
> > >
plugs...ouch.
> > >
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
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From:
"Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Axxis/Stillen Metal Matrix Pads
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 12:33:31 -0600
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Has anyone had experience with these pads?
I'm thinking about giving them a try and I'm looking
for feedback about
their performance, dust, etc.
Thanks,
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Development
Phone: 957-3736
Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
10:48:33 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
stealth@starnet.net, stealth@dragnet.com
Subject: Team3S:
Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
References: <19990309170053.3162.qmail@hotmail.com>
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Sorry I'm violating the one topic per post rule,
but they are related
enough.
Summary: Firehawk 275/40/17 will not rub struts
on stock 17x8.5 46mm
offset rims, even with 1" lowering with Eibach
springs. Slight rubbing
will occur on the inner splash guard at full
wheel lock though.
The Lowdown: Last month I needed to replace the
tires on my '91 VR4
with stock 46mm offset rims. I solicited
information from all lists
about max tire sizes on stock rims. A couple
of posts/replies stood
out. Shawn Dewey replied that he was running
Firestone Firehawk SZ50
275/40/17 on stock rims on his '93 VR4, and Bob
Fontana posted that he
has Goodyear Eagle GSC in the same size on his stock
'93 VR4 rims.
Based on their success, I got Firehawk 275/40/17 installed at
a local
dealer (prices almost as good as Tire Rack's). I had them
install one
tire on the front right first and they drove around in fast
circles in
their parking lot. When they took the tire off, we noticed
the slight
rubbing on the inner splash guard that Bob mentioned, as well as
very
slight rubbing on the strut's spring perch. I had them mount all
4. I
heard no rubbing and I don't drive in tight circles at full wheel
lock (
I normally go to lock and back off a little, still get around
tight
corners).
Two weeks ago, I replaced my struts since I suspected
that they were the
cause of some suspension clunking I was getting over sharp
bumps. They
had 89,000 miles on them! Way overdue! While I
was there, I decided to
replace the springs with Eibach's Pro-Kit. When
I removed the old
struts, I didn't notice any more rubbing on the spring
perches, and no
visible wear on the tires either. With the new springs
and the car
lowered an inch, the camber is a little too negative on all
corners. I
figured I'd leave the extra negative camber for my visit to
the track,
and get an alignment after.
Last Saturday I went to Holtville for an uncompetetive
Track Time
event. Man was that a blast! (I used up my fairly new
Stillen Metal
Matrix brake pads in half a day). I wanted to check the
tire clearance
after the most aggressive driving so I pulled off the front
tires.
There was absolutely no rubbing on the new struts! Also, when I
get it
aligned to spec, removing the excess negative camber will pull the
tire
further away from the strut.
Conclusion: Perhaps the new strut is different
with the perch in a
slightly different location, or perhaps the old perch
bent closer to the
tire after so many miles. Also, a small spring drop
should be an
advantage since removing the added camber will move the top of
the tire
away from the strut (I'll report after I have an alignment
performed).
Ed Fein had solicited info from folks running 275's on
stock rims, so
add me to the list!
1. Year, make and model of car '91
VR4
2. Brand and model of tire Firestone Firehawk SZ50, 275/40/17
3.
Rubbing, if any, and severity No rubbing on outer fenderwell,
no
rubbing on new struts. Slight rubbing on inner splashguard
4.
Misc. info Eibach Pro-Kit 1" lowering springs
Good luck,
Ken
--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
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From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Axxis/Stillen Metal Matrix Pads
References: <3FED573F5E70D111A11900805F15163F0187C79E@mn51mail2.cfsmo.honeywell.com>
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Hi Mark,
>
> Has anyone had experience with these
pads?
>
> I'm thinking about giving them a try and I'm looking for
feedback about
> their performance, dust, etc.
I put the Stillen Metal Matrix in the rear half a year
ago, and in the
front last December. They felt really good for driving
on the street.
However, I went to the track this last Saturday and they only
lasted
half-a-day of hard braking. They seem to stop well from 80 mph
street
stops but were a little prone to fading on the track from
110.
Note: When I replaced the front pads, I tried to
turn the rotors. The
mechanic measured them and they were at the
minimum width so they
couldn't be turned again. He was able to put on
the finishing 'scratch'
cut though so they cleaned up real nice. It is
very possible that not
truely turning them and actually removing metal may
have contributed to
the rapid wear of the pads.
--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
12:45:50 1999
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From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
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Cc:
"Geri Castaldo" <gcastaldo@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: The scoop on roll bars
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 15:45:39
-0500
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I ordered my Autopower roll bar from Alex at OG racing
(thanks Ed). It will
be here in about 3 weeks. Some interesting
info:
The bar, as shipped from Autopower does NOT meet NHRA
rules since the rear
legs bolt to the main hoop. NHRA requires the legs
to be a solid piece of
steel. We will need to have a bead welded around
each leg to get it to
comply. Also, we MUST buy and install the
diagnonal bar (5th point) as well
as the removable cross bar.
The material used to make the main hoop is called
"ERW mild steel, 120
(.120") wall, 1.75" diameter".
(If you can say that really fast, you'll
sound like you know what you're
talking about). According to NHRA techs,
minimum requirement is
.118". We should be okay with .120" mild steel.
Total is $402 + $90 shipping. It is shipped via
semi-trailer, so make sure
you have a way for the truck to turn
around.
-Bob
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
14:24:57 1999
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From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
"3000/Stealth Technical List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Correction on roll bar
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 17:24:46
-0500
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Alex of O.G. Racing just called me with this
update:
ERW steel has too much of a thickness variance.
NHRA will fail roll bars
that use ERW steel when put to the sonic thickness
test. Therefore, we need
to specifically order DOM (.134") mild
steel. NHRA will also require an
inner sleeve (which is how the
Autopower bars come) when welding your
joints.
Total is $440 + $90 shipping. It is shipped via
semi-trailer, so make sure
you have a way for the truck to turn
around.
-Bob
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
14:27:42 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark plugs
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 16:28:42 -0600
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I run 1 set colder (7's) on the street without
problems
and 720's but living here in the middle of nowhere
allows me to
'open it up' as soon as I leave the house.
Running copper NGK's also drops
the price to about
$1.20 each but I did have to special order them
since
non domestic car parts are so difficult to find in my area.
Pulling
them after a few miles indicated little or no fouling
but that may be due to
my 'driving habits'?
- tds
I have a set of one range colder
plugs which I intend to use at the rare
track event, but
for street purposes I run the stock plugs. I tried
one
range colder last year and did not like them for the
street. They
tended to
crap out puttering about
town unless the car was being run hard.
BTW, did you notice the price of
those suckers? $150 for a set of
plugs...ouch.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
15:47:47 1999
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From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
"3000/Stealth Technical List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Summit Racing Import Catalog
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 18:13:21
-0500
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I just received my Summit Racing catalog supplement for
import cars. There
are actually items for 6G72 motors in there!
Here are some prices for
comparison:
Blitz DSBC .................. $497
Blitz Turbo Timer
........... $108
Blitz Turbo Timer harness .... $25
Blitz Super Sound BOV
....... $200
Blitz BOV hard spring ....... $16
Accell Wires
................ $65
-Bob
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
15:49:32 1999
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From: "Gross,
Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To:
"'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'" <stealth@dragnet.com>,
"'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Jackstands and a 3000GT
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 15:49:06 -0800
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Hi guys,
Interesting bit of info to pass on:
First of all, no one is dead;)
No, really, I put the front of my base 3000GT up on
jackstands for the first
time this weekend - partially just so I could remove
the Firestone oil
filter that had been installed with exactly 208.67 ft-lbs
of torque. I know
I should be shot for ever going to firestone, but I
was in a hurry and I was
in the middle of moving, so I couldn't change it
myself. But anyway... I
printed out the pictures from John Adams'
web page and went hunting for the
locations... I looked and looked and
looked for them near the 1st
crossmember where the central jacking point
is...obviously, I didn't find
them. Eventually, I did - to the rear of
the front wheels! (actually
almost vertically under the base of the
windshield). Here's the interesting
thing: maybe the weight
balancing is different (I think it is) between a
base and VR-4, but with the
jackstands in those locations, as I lowered the
floor jack(on the central
front jacking location), it still had weight on it
after the jackstands had
made contact...as I brought the front bumper down
another 3 inches or so, the
floor jack still had weight on it. Then I
noticed that it was raising
the rear of the car. Carefully, I lowered it
some more, watching for
any sign or tipping forward uncontrollably. It
stopped, but not until
the rear of the car was about 3-4" higher than
normal. I know with
the jackstands in this position, almost the entire
engine compartment is in
front of the jackstands, so some rotation about the
jackstand contact point
was expected, but how much is normal? 3-4" seems a
bit excessive
to me. The car was completely stable and supported, but I
imagine this
put a lot of stress on the frame around where the jackstands
were. Is
this ok? Just curious...
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi + bald tire mod
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
17:11:11 1999
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From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Jackstands and a 3000GT
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 17:11:27
-0800
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Hmm, should be ok since the factory scissor jack point
is also behind the
front wheels. Even so, you may be closing in on the
center of gravity. I'm
sure a stupid question, but are sure you're on
the frame and not the
suspension?
On my SL, I normally set my front jackstands on the
very front crossmember.
Not sure if that's accessible on a VR4. My rear
stands go under the rear
trailing arm support. Very stable. It's been
up like that for the last 6
months. Probably stay there until
2K.
Ryan P
Erik wrote:
I know with the jackstands in this position, almost the
entire
engine compartment is in front of the jackstands, so some rotation
about the
jackstand contact point was expected, but how much is normal?
3-4" seems a
bit excessive to me. The car was completely stable
and supported, but I
imagine this put a lot of stress on the frame around
where the jackstands
were. Is this ok? Just
curious...
--Erik
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
17:37:58 1999
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Definitely more expensive than other ones we all
know.
No quotes/answers from dealers/resellers please
!
> Blitz DSBC .................. $497
> Blitz
Turbo Timer ........... $108
> Blitz Turbo Timer harness .... $25
>
Blitz Super Sound BOV ....... $200
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
20:21:28 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need new brake rotors & pads
Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 21:22:49
-0700
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They also advertise in Turbo and possibly
SSC.
I found them to be very helpful and honest business
people. They honored a
blind claim from me for damaged rotors and pads,
no questions asked, no
cross shipping nonsense. Highly
recommended.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >
I've had KVR cross drilled rotors on my '94 for over a year and am very
>
> happy with them. Combined with KVR carbon metallic pads,
these
> rotors have
> > worked very well.
>
> So
where do you buy KVR from? I could find anything on the
web.
>
> --
>
> Ken Middaugh
> General
Atomics
> San Diego
> (619) 455-4510
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 9
21:52:01 1999
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<< I'm looking for feedback about their
performance, dust, etc. >>
I've had them on the rear for a couple years.
They have no noticeable dust,
especially compared to the Pagids
(front).
Henry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 02:52:10
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From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Correction on roll bar
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 05:01:44
-0600
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As a side note, I called Alex at OG after getting Bob's
message to check and
see if the bar was Spyder-compatible. He called
Autopower and they said
"probably not." Does this mean it
won't work? Maybe...maybe not.
Bob, when you get it, let us know how heavy it is
(minus packing) and of
course get us some pics and
measurements:)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
>Alex of O.G. Racing just called me with this
update:
>
>ERW steel has too much of a thickness variance.
NHRA will fail roll bars
>that use ERW steel when put to the sonic
thickness test. Therefore, we
need
>to specifically order DOM
(.134") mild steel. NHRA will also require an
>inner sleeve
(which is how the Autopower bars come) when welding
your
>joints.
>
>Total is $440 + $90 shipping. It is
shipped via semi-trailer, so make sure
>you have a way for the truck to
turn around.
>
>-Bob
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 06:23:22
1999
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I've been using them with the Stillen Xdrilled Rotors.
They worked better then
the stock setup. Very little brake dust from these
pads & the rotors look
great.
Still, after repeated hard stops from
100+ mph I feel the rotors/pads are not
up to the task. My car is the 91
model & has a smaller front rotor so this may
be part/all of the
problem.
Arty 91 VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 08:03:34
1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 08:08:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Correction on roll bar
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Jeff,
Doesn't the hardtop convertible's
retracting path get in the way of
the rollbar???? I mean they would
have to take several measurements to
make sure since you wouldn't want to
damage the hardtop. Now if you
were doing full convertible then it is another
story then.
---Jeff <jw461@nstar.net> wrote:
>
> As
a side note, I called Alex at OG after getting Bob's message to
check
and
> see if the bar was Spyder-compatible. He called Autopower and
they
said
> "probably not." Does this mean it won't
work? Maybe...maybe not.
>
> Bob, when you get it, let us
know how heavy it is (minus packing)
and of
> course get us some pics
and measurements:)
>
> jeff
> '95 Mitsubishi Spyder
VR-4
> '90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
>
To: 3000/Stealth Technical List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 4:26 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Correction on
roll bar
>
>
> >Alex of O.G. Racing just called me with
this update:
> >
> >ERW steel has too much of a thickness
variance. NHRA will fail
roll bars
> >that use ERW steel when
put to the sonic thickness test.
Therefore, we
> need
> >to
specifically order DOM (.134") mild steel. NHRA will also
require
an
> >inner sleeve (which is how the Autopower bars come) when welding
your
> >joints.
> >
> >Total is $440 + $90
shipping. It is shipped via semi-trailer, so
make sure
> >you
have a way for the truck to turn around.
> >
> >-Bob
>
>
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Hi guys (and gals ?)
Been a few days since I'm in lurking mode, and I think
I now have to
introduce myself (or is it my car :-)
I'm Henri Le Hir, from Switzerland, the reason I'm on
this list is because
Roger (gruetzi Roger....) pointed it to me, just before
I bought a 92 Dodge
Stealth RT / Turbo...this car seems to be a canadian spec
one, directly
imported here.
As a background, I've owned (and modified) a
couple "interesting" cars.
CRX (Si) Vtec
Toyota Supra (single)Turbo
(7M-GTE)
Celica All track Turbo(3S-GTE)
Subaru Legacy Turbo
Subaru
SVX
Lexus GS-300 (2JZ-GE)
Nissan 300 Zx Twin Turbo (2+2) (VG30DETT) [this
one is..ahem...slightly
modified :-)]
I'll probably have a gazillon questions for you in a
near future, hope you
won't mind.
Anyway, here are the first ones...
Where can I find technical ressources on the
net.
Where can I find the mechanics manual.
Where can I buy the following
items...
Blitz Dual Turbo Timer + Harness for the
Stealth
Boost Controller
Are there any mail order companies you
(don't) recommend.
Best....
Henri
<snip>
Where can I find technical
ressources on the net.
Where can I find the mechanics manual.
Where can I
buy the following items...
Blitz Dual Turbo Timer + Harness for the
Stealth
Boost Controller
Are there any mail order companies you
(don't) recommend.
Best....Henri
====================
Henri...
Welcome. You'll find this list to be a great resource
for your technical
questions. Ask away.
You can buy the shop manuals from Dodge/Mitsubishi, but
one of our members
has a web site where you can order them on CD-ROM. A great
way to go, and
half the cost. The CD has gotten good reviews from several,
including our
friend Roger Gerl. His name is Vineet Singh, and his site
address is:
I won't recommend any parts sites, as we discourage
commercial advertising,
but here's some URL's that have been posted in the
past:
There's also a couple US members that have started a
business, no doubt they
will e-mail you privately.
Sounds like you've had some great cars, I'll e-mail you
privately as well,
to chat about the CRX and 300Z.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 11:03:12
1999
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Date:
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Can anyone enlighten me on the differences between an
external BOV vs one
that vents back into the intake. Which type will allow
better spool up
recovery ?
Any particular brand/type recommendations
?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 11:15:20
1999
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From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Correction on roll bar
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 13:24:54
-0600
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Well, I'm not entirely sure. I know that I can
have a passenger sitting
up-right in the back seats and drop the top and it
doesn't hit them in the
head. I figure with some measurements from Bob,
I'll be able to tell
whether it'll hit or not. I'm not too concerned
with clearance issues tho.
I'm looking more at aesthethics because the bar
will be out in the open with
the top down for everyone to see. Also,
NHRA legality would be nice...but
I'm pretty sure an NHRA bar has to be 6
point, not 4 point.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
>Jeff,
> Doesn't the hardtop
convertible's retracting path get in the way of
>the rollbar???? I
mean they would have to take several measurements to
>make sure since you
wouldn't want to damage the hardtop. Now if you
>were doing full
convertible then it is another story then.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 11:26:04
1999
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Date:
Wed, 10 Mar 1999 14:19:11 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Jeff,
Another benifit to NHRA legality (the benifit would be
there even if it
didn't meet NHRA specs, but probably not as much) is chassis
stiffness
which has always been a weak point with poptops.
Regards,
Lynn '92 ES 3/SI#0232
Jeff wrote:
>
> Well, I'm not entirely
sure. I know that I can have a passenger
> sitting
> up-right
in the back seats and drop the top and it doesn't hit them in
>
the
> head. I figure with some measurements from Bob, I'll be able
to tell
> whether it'll hit or not. I'm not too concerned with
clearance issues
> tho.
> I'm looking more at aesthethics because
the bar will be out in the
> open with
> the top down for everyone
to see. Also, NHRA legality would be
> nice...but
> I'm pretty
sure an NHRA bar has to be 6 point, not 4 point.
>
> jeff
>
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
> '90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
NHRA rules for 11.99 to 11.00 is a 5-point roll
bar. The points are the two
ends of the hoop, the two rear stays and a
diagonal bar that goes across and
down - from behind your head to the bottom
of the hoop on the passenger
side. It can be removable. You must
also have a horizontal bar (removable
is also allowed) that runs across the
hoop, behind your seats.
-Bob
> > the top down for everyone to see. Also,
NHRA legality would be
> > nice...but
> > I'm pretty sure an
NHRA bar has to be 6 point, not 4 point.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 13:06:16
1999
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> Can anyone enlighten me on the differences between
an external BOV vs one
> that vents back into the intake. Which type will
allow better spool up
> recovery ?
For the spool up recovery both types are almost the
same. The disadavante of the
bypass valves is that the already hot air will
be vented back into the intake
system. Also the stock "BBV" (blow
back valve, hehe) spring is not that stiff
and it doesn't release the air
that fast as an aftermarket BOV. This is why a
combination of the stock and
the external BOV makes sense as the stock one
releases the lower boost
"more softly" and the high boost is vented to
the
ambient.
> Any particular brand/type recommendations
?
Blitz, Greddy, Apexi, HKS .. I guess all brands have
been mounted in our cars.
You can decide between a sequential type and a
normal one. The sequential has
two stages for lower and higher pressures. I
do have the earlier HKS SBOV but
I'm not a fan of plastic things and it
already has some scratches on the finish.
It works and gets rid of the stock
valve like others do too. BTW, the new HKS
S-SBOV is still plastic as it only
has a wrapped around metal case :/ As I do
have to adapt the stuff for the
new IC piping I probably will install the Apexi
BOV then.
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Subject:
Team3S: Re: Smoked by a ZR1 -Reply
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Yasuna J. Murakami wrote: [snips]
> I have to
comment on silliness. I have a modified
> stage 6 3000 GT VR-4.
3000VR-4 is great car, can challenge most cars in
> acceleration etc but
you would think they
> were talking about Ferrari F50 or McLaren F1. I
owned
> 94 Supra TT, now a 3000 GT VR-4, and family/neighbors
Ferraris/Porsches.
> enough is enough. 3000 GT VR-4 is not in same league
as some of
> these other cars.
Silliness...hmm. In conjunction with some other
messages explaining
carefully how outclassed the VR4 is compared to Supras,
NSX, RX7,
Skyline, F40(!), McClaren (!!) etc: back to back tests are
hard to come
by, but as outlined by Todd Shelton and SEEN on
Japanese-origin
VIDEOtape of multiple races on-track against a wide variety
of cars,
3000VR4/GTO did quite nicely, thank you, usually placing at
least
midpack and higher, never last :) and SPECIFICALLY beating up
regularly
on Supra TT, RX7...and beating NSX sometimes. F40 always won
when in
contest. Saw some GREAT battles between VR4 and
"Mighty Skyline",
which usually came out ahead of 3000
(somewhat). If it WON some of the
official class-races as you've said,
that is great!
As for indicating that because 3000 was not the SOLE
WINNER OVERALL in a
yearlong series, it is way inferior, that is obviously
bunk. By such a
standard every other car was highly inferior also,
which maintains us in
good company indeed :)
As for SPECIFIC data stock-to-stock, a Road and Track
article from 1994
compared 3000VR4, SupraTT, CorvetteLT1, Nissan
300ZXTT. The quickest
laptime around the Streets of Willow course was
by Supra; SECOND, by
_ONE TENTH_ of a second, was the 3000VR4; third was
Vette, 0.5
seconds/lap BEHIND VR4; and LAST was 300ZX, which was 1.7
seconds/lap
behind VR4! Remember how TOTALLY acclaimed the Supra was
when it first
came out, proclaimed by mags better than various
Ferrari/Porsche etc
"exotics"? Pffft. 0.1 seconds/lap
faster than sadly huge, heavy,
corpulent, understeering, underbraked
3000VR4.
> My modified 3000VR-4 can now beat ZR-1, only
through extensive modifications.
ZR1 are excellent and powerful, regularly turning
quartermiles in the
mid 13's at 105-109mph range as witnessed by me at
dragstrip. VR4 can
do 12's at 107-109 with boost increase (as simple
and zero-cost as
removing a hose, or using a fish valve for $0.59) an exhaust
and
airfilter. Hardly requires more than about $600. I know
because I DID
it. If one chooses more expensive options that is one's
own choice.
> I read on website person racing Ferrari F40
believing he could beat it if had proper
> modifications! I have driven an
F-40; car is on another level. if you could beat
> it (if the F-40 driver
was incompetent) on the short term acceleration front
Ferrari F40 are excellent and powerful. As the
person who raced that
F40, hampered by cheap gas causing knocksensor timing
retard and without
my nitrous, the cars were extremely close--with him
getting the jump on
shifts because of better spoolup but me keeping up once
on boost. With
better octane it would have been virtual tie; with
nitrous he would have
fallen behind. It is a truism that once some
people sense a weakness in
their argument, and ESPECIALLY if one has some
"seat time" which leads
them to think well of themselves and their
automotive opinion, the "you
only won because the driver [whom,
interestingly, the speaker never
has/will EVER know] was incompetent"
statement comes out.
My car has documented quartermile times in the 10.8
second/128mph
range. Please, show me the statistics (you seem VERY well
read on mag
stats and articles) wherein the F40 has beaten that; or were ALL
those
drivers incompetent as well? You can bring Ayrton Senna back from
the
dead, put him in that F40, and he will not beat my car in acceleration.
I will crush Ayrton Senna in that F40...from a roll. From a
STOP?
Sayonara!
Of course, my car is "modified", bringing its
cost to somewhere around ?
1/10 the cost of that F40. Living in the
real world, I plead poverty
and must make do. Sigh.
>
car is far better balanced/lighter, so any turns would call
> for doom to
the 3000 GT racer.
No argument there. It is far lighter, and handles
better.
> I heard drivers claim "dusted"
>
Porsche Turbos. I have driven 1998 Porsche Turbo S and modified
>
1997 Porsche Ruf Turbo, both cars would destroy any
> 3000 GT on the
track.
Hmm. I have personally bested (but not destroyed)
Porsche AWD TT cars
on track (Road America) both in dry and in rain; one had
stickers and
such looking like some stockish-class racer; and NONE passed me
but one
I let by, and subsequently passed and left behind. Very
excellent cars,
the AWD TT. A worthy adversary, I am happy to say; and
in several ways
superior. But only somebody with self-car-loathing
would take being
able to BEST such cars on track and turn it into "would
destroy _ANY_
3000GT on the track". If one has $120,000 for the
car, and $30-60,000+
(!) for Ruf etc mods, that's nice.
Like Clint
Eastwood said, "A man's gotta know his limitations". I
am
sure you were speaking for yourself, and that is fine ;)
> My father's Ferrari 512 TR has much
> better
feel/sound than my 3000 GT could ever achieve. the heavy
>
weight/sound deadening material in 3000 GT are total hinderances.
512: NOW we are talking about a big, heavy
car--about as heavy as
ours! 512 are excellent, powerful cars. I
don't, and who really could,
know that it feels/sounds better than a 3000
could EVER
achieve...especially as sound and feel are matters of
personal
preference.
> Anyone raced a BMW M3? In stock form,
an M3 can give 3000 GT a run for its
> money.
That is true, M3's are excellent but not very powerful
cars. They
handle well, but getting MEANINGFUL horsepower out of them
is very
costly, far more so than 3000's; and I have regularly trounced
every
single M3 I have ever encountered at Road America and Grattan,
Michigan;
usually because of their woefully inadequate
powerplants...cornering was
about a wash, but ACCELERATING out of the corner
the AWD eats them up;
in the straight it is goodbye. Of course, with
factory backing, extreme
modifications, BMW's can be made very fast; as can
anything else with
factory backing ;) Did you ever notice how every
time Car & Driver
proclaimed the M3 the "best handling car" etc
in comparison tests, they
essentially NEVER published LAP TIMES ?!? Of
course, it is because the
Ferrari 355, Corvette, etc that were
"inferior" in the test outcome to
the M3 so easily beat the M3's
laptimes, but publishing THAT would
reveal their conclusion to be as highly
questionable as it IS...
> Japanese car I really want for which I would sell
10 3000GT is mighty Nissan Skyline GTR.
> stock form it could give many
supercars a run for its money.
> 1000 HP is widely avaliable. has real 4
wheel steering, all
> wheel drive, with handling and balance to
match.
Skyline GTR are excellent and powerful cars. A
little (well, ALOT) too
"sedan-like" styling for my taste, which
tends toward the "beautiful"
(see most Ferraris...and almost no
Porsches) but really neat and lots of
parts out there...for those unwilling
to blaze a new trail and enjoy the
role of giant-killers (see 3000/Stealth
modifiers).
> if someone brag they can "dust" whatever
out their, BS
> factor alarms should be ringing. To me it is no different
from the Mustang
> drivers. As for beating these cars on track I
congratulate you if you really have
> beaten these Porsche Turbos, etc.
You are truly a great driver
No, I am not a great driver. I suspect I am a
relatively average
driver, which is fine; my car, a 3000GT VR4, however, IS
great, and good
competition for pretty much anything out there up to
over-$300,000
range. I am quite happy with that FACT. Are there
superior race-cars?
"Street cars" costing $300,000-$1,000,000 that
will beat me around a
track handily? Sure there are. My car cost
me $31,900 NEW, and has a
total cost somewhere around $45,000 now.
Maybe a little more, maybe
less...who's counting, when the only other car I'd
consider (Porsche AWD
Turbo) (well OK I like 355's too) is about $120,000 and
I now can
compete with on about-even footing, all the while causing jaws to
drop
and "well-founded" rather poor opinions about 3000VR4's to
explode all
the while?
Any boob can take a Porsche, spend boatloads of money,
and go fast/act
cool/snobby/pronounce others' inferiority. Many
do! I don't and never
will have boatloads of money; I have chosen
a more interesting route, a
route less-travelled; and that has made all the
difference!
(Apologies to any poetry-wonks out there :)
Mr. Murakami, you sound like a very nice and
intelligent man, with good
experience and knowledge. Thank you for your
well-written letters,
which have well thought-out opinions, some of which I
disagree with.
This IS the 3000/Stealth mailing list, and so you will
forgive me and
others, I hope, for defending our cars and having the chutzpah
to
maintain that our cars are NOT second-class citizens, but
interesting
first-class citizens with some strengths we revel in, and
some
weaknesses we work (WITHOUT any factory/large corporation backing)
to
correct--successfully, in most cases! I simply don't wish to have
to
preface every encounter with a ZR-1 or Ferrari or whatever
with
apologies admitting how inferior and outclassed I really am but I won
a
race because the other driver clearly must have been incompetent or
it
would be impossible. Placing a sickly sheen of "this is the
3000 list
and as long as everybody FIRST recognizes how many superior cars to
ours
there are, you can go on with your message" is sadly depressing
IMO, and
unnecessary.
SURE there are faster cars! But there are way
more SLOWER cars...and we
have the ability to VASTLY improve our cars'
performance for what
amounts to RELATIVE bargain prices! We do it in
ALL weather, and in the
real world (McClaren and F40 etc are just not).
ENJOY the cars with us,
this is our chosen make! Complain about the
weaknesses (brakes, weight,
etc) and help us SOLVE the problems! Don't
be a yes-man, your letters
are enjoyable and mostly true, and I hope we can
argue in good spirit
and sometimes pointedly, but that is fine
too.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 13:34:53
1999
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Smoked by a ZR1 -Reply
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 13:23:04
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Put the gun down Jack !!! Just put the gun down,
and step away from the
wepon. :-)
--
>>As for indicating that because 3000 was not the
SOLE WINNER OVERALL in a
>yearlong series, it is way inferior, that is
obviously bunk. By such a
>standard every other car was highly
inferior also, which maintains us in
>good company indeed
:)
>
>> My modified 3000VR-4 can now beat ZR-1, only through
extensive
modifications.
>
>>Of course, my car is
"modified", bringing its cost to somewhere around ?
>1/10 the
cost of that F40. Living in the real world, I plead
poverty
>>driver, which is fine; my car, a 3000GT VR4, however, IS
great, and good
>competition for pretty much anything out there up to
over-$300,000
>?
>
>Any boob can take a Porsche, spend
boatloads of money, and go fast/act
>cool/snobby/pronounce others'
inferiority. Many do! I don't and never
>will have
boatloads of money; I have chosen a more interesting route, a
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 13:56:39
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Team3S: Usable Wheel or Rim widths ?
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Anyone using a wider wheel (not tire) then the 8.5JJ
size on a VR-4?
I'm trying to determine what is the widest wheel I can use.
Can I run
a rim size of 16 x 10 or is this too wide?
My stock wheel on my
91 VR-4 was 17 x 8.5 JJ with a 46mm offset.
I understand that I can reduce
the size to 16 inch but the width is in
question.
If I can use the 16 x
10 inch width any idea of the offset?
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 14:49:56
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From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
>
> Anyone using a wider wheel (not tire) then the 8.5JJ
size on a VR-4?
> I'm trying to determine what is the widest wheel I can
use. Can I run
> a rim size of 16 x 10 or is this too wide?
> My
stock wheel on my 91 VR-4 was 17 x 8.5 JJ with a 46mm offset.
> I
understand that I can reduce the size to 16 inch but the width is in
>
question.
> If I can use the 16 x 10 inch width any idea of the
offset?
> Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
The math is pretty easy. If you increase the
width by 1.5 inches ~=
38.1mm, you want to decrease the offset by half that
amount or 19mm. So
46mm -19mm = 27mm offset. A 9.5 inch width
would give you 1 inch ~=
25.4 mm. 46mm - 13mm = 33mm.
Now the real question is who is running 9.5 or 10 inch
width wheels and
what offset are you using?
--
>Hmm. I have personally bested (but not
destroyed) Porsche AWD TT cars
>on track (Road America) both in dry and in
rain;
Jack: How did you get onto Road America? What
club?
The only club I can find running regularly at Elkhart Lake is the
Cobra
Club, and they are Fords only.
Man, I'd give my left nut to run at RA.
Rich/old poop/VR4
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From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Correction on roll bar
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 18:08:41
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Cool! So the bars that run forward off the hoop
between your elbow and
shoulders to the front footwells are not
necessary? Those have been my
biggest hinderance because they make it
hard to get into the car and aren't
very good looking. If the
horizontal bar that runs across the hoop and the
diagonal bar that runs
across the hoop (but diagonally) are separate, how do
you keep them from
hitting each other?
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
>NHRA rules for 11.99 to 11.00 is a 5-point roll
bar. The points are the
two
>ends of the hoop, the two rear stays
and a diagonal bar that goes across
and
>down - from behind your head
to the bottom of the hoop on the passenger
>side. It can be
removable. You must also have a horizontal bar (removable
>is also
allowed) that runs across the hoop, behind your
seats.
>
>-Bob
>
>> > the top down for everyone to
see. Also, NHRA legality would be
>> > nice...but
>>
> I'm pretty sure an NHRA bar has to be 6 point, not 4
point.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 16:13:04
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Axxis/Stillen Metal Matrix Pads
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 18:07:09
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[Brian Danley] I think break lines help a
great deal also. The Goodrich
brake lines (I need a set) will help a lot
with mushy feeling in the stock
setup. I have PowerSlot rotors and I
love them. The are better (didn't
test the before and after) than
stock and don't warp like the stock ones
do. You can turn them ... but
I put 45K miles on my VR-4 last year (30K
with the new rotors) and haven't
had them warp on me like the stock ones
did (2-3 times in 15k
miles).
Still, after repeated hard stops from 100+ mph I feel
the rotors/pads are
not
up to the task. My car is the 91 model & has
a smaller front rotor so this
may
be part/all of the problem.
Arty 91
VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 16:27:50
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Date:
Wed, 10 Mar 1999 16:26:38 -0800
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Usable Wheel or Rim widths ?
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Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
> >
> > Anyone using a wider wheel (not tire) then the
8.5JJ size on a VR-4?
> > I'm trying to determine what is the widest
wheel I can use. Can I run
> > a rim size of 16 x 10 or is this too
wide?
A 16" wheel might not clear the brakes. You
might be okay since
brakes on the 91-93 are smaller. Just ditch the
brakes and get a
parachute. :)
> The math is pretty easy. If you increase the
width by 1.5 inches ~=
> 38.1mm, you want to decrease the offset by half
that amount or 19mm. So
> 46mm -19mm = 27mm offset. A 9.5 inch
width would give you 1 inch ~=
> 25.4 mm. 46mm - 13mm =
33mm.
That's a good rule of thumb to use if you want to
maintain the same
track, but the rule isn't always followed. I wish it
were that simple.
Blitz Wheels recommends the following: (all
offsets in mm)
For a Supra JZA80, if you run 17x9 in the rear, they
recommend
either 38 or 41 offset. But they recommend a 45 offset for
18x10
and a 42 offset for 18x10.5.
There are tons of other examples in the brochure where
they
recommend a higher offset when going to a wider wheel.
The
reason is probably because there is enough clearance within
the
wheelwell, so this allows you to avoid having the wheels
sticking out.
On our cars, we don't have a whole lot of clear-
ance to play
with.
> Now the real question is who is running 9.5 or 10
inch width wheels and
> what offset are you using?
My friend Julian runs 18x9 w/ a 45 offset on a 94
VR4. He
probably could have gone down to 42 offset, but after
that
clearing the brakes would have been a problem. Mikael in
Sweden
had to shave his calipers when only putting on 18x8.5's,
so a lot depends on
the design of the wheels. Also, there is a
guy in Japan with a GTO
running 18x10's front and back, and
this car is streetable. This is the
Bozz Speed GTO, and you
can see pics here:
I would say that you could safely go with 18x10's front
and
back as long as your offset was in the very low 30's or (better
yet)
in the 20's. This corresponds with Ken's calculations
given
above. R33 Skylines commonly run offsets of 22 in the
front
and rear for any wheel size from 17x9 to 18x10. The
highest
offset used for a Skyline is 30 for an 18x9.5 wheel. Just go
with
a mid or low 20's offset and then get some flared fender like
the
Bozz Speed guy.
Later,
--Errin Humphrey
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From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Correction on roll bar
Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 19:45:30
-0500
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There aren't any forward bars.
Look at http://209.19.107.64/ogshell/loadpage.pl?94+catroll.html.
The roll
bar pictured at the top of the page is the same basic design.
The main hoop
sits behind the seats as does the diagnonal bar. For your
car, it will be a
challenge to install since the trunk area stores the
roof. The legs need to
go somewhere. Without them, the hoop is no
good since there's nothing to
support it. That's probably why Autopower
says that they don't make one for
the Spyder.
-Bob
Jack
Very well put ! You made some excellent
points.
I especially agree with your comments about the way in
which the magazines
bias their interpretation of the test data. Just
one example, the R&T
article that you mentioned went on to say that only
one of their drivers
had been able to post the fastest lap time in the
Supra, whereas just about
anybody could get the 0.1 second slower time in
the VR4.
For most real world drivers (like me) the ease of going
quickly and
consistently in a VR4 was the most important finding, yet most
of the
magazines completely miss this point.
Some years ago I lapped (like 8 or 9 times during the
day) a host of more
expensive exotics including an Esprit Turbo, a F348
and F512 at a Lagna
Seca "Green Flag" day some years
ago. When my (Mellow Yellow) VR4 was
totally stock. By far the
nicest part was the growing respect for VR4's
and the informed debate that I
generated in the pits after each session.
Steve Clarke
Yellow VR4
Merritt wrote:
> Jack: How did you get onto
Road America? What club?
> The only club I can find running regularly at
Elkhart Lake is the Cobra
> Club, Fords only.
I have gone with the BMW clubs (Badger Bimmers from
Wisconsin, and Windy
City Chapter from Illinois); the Nord Stern Porsche club
from
Minnesota. The Alfa Romeo club has a great (read: not
over-supervised
:) Road America outing; there are probably others, but
the group I have
"hung" with goes to these usually.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 19:16:06
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Smoked by a ZR1 -Reply
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james berry wrote:
> Put the gun down Jack
!!! Just put the gun down, and step away from the
> weapon.
:-)
>
>I have gone with the BMW clubs (Badger
Bimmers from Wisconsin, and Windy
>City Chapter from Illinois); the Nord
Stern Porsche club from
>Minnesota. The Alfa Romeo club has a great
(read: not over-supervised
>:) Road America outing; there are
probably others, but the group I have
>"hung" with goes to these
usually.
Jack: Got any dates? How about club phone
numbers?
Where are you anyway? Wanna go with me to Topeka?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Very well written Jack, glad you're on our team
:P I'd like to add a few things if I could.
If I read correctly, when
you raced the F40 on the street, it was from a rolling start, and he
never
got more than a car legnth ahead, right? This, on top of the fact that you
weren't
running maximum boost. I'll be the first to admit that the VR4
may not be the 'best' car in
stock trim from a cost-is-no-object standpoint,
but I own my VR4 for one reason only. At this
price, I feel that the
VR4 is the 'best' choice. Yes this is opinion, but I consider it a
good
one. It's cheaper than a Supra, yet you get more options.
Maybe not the same reliablity, this
is assuming that the Supra carries the
typical Toyota reliability. I'd gladly take the AWD
over slightly
better reliability, and in my opinion, the VR4 is a much better looking
car. If
only you could have seen the grin on my face yesterday as I
easily traversed a snow covered
hill that several cars and a truck were not
able to climb, this after passing a few cars that
had slid off the
road. This is on Pzeros, which probably aren't the best winter tire.
Hell,
I'd bet a stock VR4 could hit 60 mph in under 6 seconds in the
rain.
The VR4 has bested NSXs, Supras, and even Vipers from what I
hear. This may not be a regular
occurance, and in some cases the road
course surfaces were less than perfect (much like a
street), but it's an easy
car to drive. An idiot could drive a VR4 fast, I know because I am
an
idiot ;) , and I've driven my VR4 fast. If profesional drivers were
running on perfect
courses, the aforementioned cars would probably get the
better of the VR4, but few of us are
profesional-level drivers, and streets
are rarely ever close to perfect.
Without knowing for sure, I'd still
be willing to bet that half a million dollars could
create a VR4 that would
annihalate F40s in all areas and you wouldn't even have to pull a
string to
open the door. Lets remove anything that doesn't contribute to
performance, place a
carbon fiber body on it, maybe a tube fram, etc...
Let's not even discuss what a full million
dollars (Mclaren F1) could do, and
the end result would be a car that doesn't have hideous
attempts a bumpers,
and can't be run hard for fear of overheating.
If Jack's right, which
I don't doubt for a second, the average ZR1 driver can turn mid 13s.
Only
racing twice I was able to get one 14.07 run (missed 3rd gear), two 13.7s, two
ore more
13.6s, and two 13.3s. This was done with an essentially stock
VR4. 88k miles, original plugs
and wires which turned out to be gapped
at .045+ causing regular acceleration stumbles, and
only an air filter for
mods.
Well, I think that's enough for now, just defending a great
car.
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 10 23:22:49
1999
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Date: Wed, 10 Mar 1999 23:22:50 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Autopower rollbar....
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Hi team...
I happened to have the Autopower rollbar in my
car. Mine was bought
and installed few years ago so I don't know if
they made any changes.
I just took some pix with my bro's digital cam,
so anyone interested
in seeing what it look like can give me a private email
and I'll sent
you the pix. Sorry for not posting it on the net, I don't
have a
homepage nor do I have how to make one! ;(
One last thing I might add, I was told (back
then) that the roll bar
won't fit 3Ss with the sun/moonroofs.
Take care,
George
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 04:39:27
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In a message dated 3/11/99 2:02:37 AM Eastern Standard
Time, phnxgld@erols.com
writes:
<< This is on Pzeros, which probably aren't
the best winter tire. Hell,
I'd bet a stock VR4 could hit 60 mph
in under 6 seconds in the rain. >>
******** I don't
know what a stock one would do,but I can verify that
one
with a bleeder can run a 4.73 sec 0-60 in
a hard rain.(Hey,I was
bored)
Wayne 3SI
#87
'91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 09:45:06
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Hello all,
I have a
question concerning the hydraulic valve lash adjusters that I
thought was a
simple one, but that I have yet get a real answer to.....
Basically, I want to know if the adjusters have
to be bled and FULL of oil
when they are installed. Before you answer - a
little more info.
The problem I am having is the (front
exhaust) camshaft not rotating freely
even when all the rockers are rolling
on the cam baseline (none on any of the
lobes exerting pressure on the valve
springs).
This happens if I assemble everything with the adjusters
FULL and bled. If I
slightly depress the adjusters to allow some freeplay
during assembly, the cam
turns freely.
So back to my question - if I install the
adjusters minus a little oil, will
they bleed out and remain adjusted
properly? Or will they fill and bind again?
Do I have a geometry / valve
height problem that is causing the cam binding?
Hope this was at least somewhat
clear.
- SteveC
P.S. I have talked to a couple different Mitsu
tech reps and still no
anwser...
Thanks in advance for any answers or even clever
guesses
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 11:04:47
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From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
To:
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Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Bleeding
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 12:08:37
-0700
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Hello all,
I recently had to replace the rubber
hydraulic line that runs from the
clutch housing to the firewall. I was
wondering if there is a certain way
that the clutch should be bled. I
bled the clutch with the same technique
as bleeding a brake. Now it
doesn't feel the same as it did before. It
seems to not want to go into
gear easily from a stop, as if the clutch is
still partially engaged.
It is also harder to shift while driving. My
question is:
Do you
guys have a special technique for this? Also what type of fluid
should
I run in there? DOT 4 brake fluid?
Thank you for any thoughts.
Paul Horschel
93 VR4
Anybody out there who has rebuilt they're engine (Bob,
Arty, Jack, Adam)
know of a highly competent place to have a crankshaft
turned and polished?
I don't trust anybody here in memphis (I'll probably get
a response like;
"uhh, that there's not no 5 liter") Or does
anybody have a NEW crank and
bearing set for sale?
Hi Paul,
> I recently had to replace the rubber hydraulic
line that runs from the
> clutch housing to the firewall. I was
wondering if there is a certain way
> that the clutch should be
bled. I bled the clutch with the same technique
> as bleeding a
brake. Now it doesn't feel the same as it did before. It
>
seems to not want to go into gear easily from a stop, as if the clutch
is
> still partially engaged. It is also harder to shift while
driving. My
> question is:
> Do you guys have a special
technique for this? Also what type of fluid
> should I run in
there? DOT 4 brake fluid?
Install a 10mm x 1.0 Speedbleeder bleed screw for
$6.50, part # SB1010.
I use Valvoline's new synthetic DOT 4 in clutch &
brakes. It's boiling
point is over 500 degrees and a big bottle cheap,
< $5 or maybe < $10.
With a Speedbleeder, you just open the screw, attach a
hose and put the
other end in a catch can, then pump the clutch pedal slowly
a few times
until the fluid that comes out is clean. Just keep topping
off the
resevoir until you're done. I did mine with the engine off,
even though
the clutch is vacuum assisted, I think.
If you've bled the clutch and it still doesn't feel
right, perhaps there
is a problem with the clutch master cylinder or the
vacuum assist. I
currently suspect these in my '91 as the feel changes
from time to
time. It can be clunky when I first start the car.
Another
possibility, perhaps it is related to the temperature of the
tranny
fluid, i.e. smoother shifting when warm.
Good luck,
Ken
--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 11:34:26
1999
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Team3S: Racers
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I am trying to get a race team organized for this
years, Pikes Peak Hill
Climb. If anyone is interested in this please e-mail
me. Since, the
Hill Climb has many classes of races, all vehicles are
welcome. I am
especially interested in anyone that has 93 or above
stock or almost
stock turbo vehicle. All vehicles entering the race will have
to be
equipped with a roll cage. Here is the link to the Hill
Climb
associations web page, it has technical information and general
race
info is located on this site. http://www.ppihc.com .
--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 11:49:48
1999
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Thu, 11 Mar 1999 13:50:00 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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Team3S: Car cover
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Ok,
the time has come that I start
thinking about a car cover for old
girl. Unfortunately, I'm moving and
won't have a garage to keep it in
so I'll need an "all weather"
type cover.
Can anyone make recommendations on the subject?
also If you know of a
website that deals in car covers, please list that
too.
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth
R/T Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 12:35:58
1999
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 12:41:48
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Date:
Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:39:31 EST
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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In a message dated 99-03-11 14:23:10 EST, you
write:
<< Anybody out there who has rebuilt they're
engine (Bob, Arty, Jack, Adam)
know of a highly competent place to have
a crankshaft turned and polished?
I don't trust anybody here in memphis
(I'll probably get a response like;
"uhh, that there's not no 5
liter") Or does anybody have a NEW crank and
bearing set for
sale?
>>
I don't recommend turning the crank. Some of
them (hardened) are
specifically noted not to be turned in the Mits 6G72
overhaul manual. The main
and rod bearings are very finicky. Also Mits does
not offer undersize bearings
for all the early model engines. The bearings
are matched to the new cranks by
a proprietary color code. My first rebuild
(with turned crank) lasted 40 miles
before spinning a rod bearing. The exact
cause could not be determined ( I did
not do the work).
If you
decide to get a new crank and bearings (highly recommended) , West
Broad
Mitsubishi in Richmond, Va sold me mine at cost (approx $800 for
everything
except thrust bearings). Regular dealer price is more than that for
the crank
alone. Make sure you identify the exact year and model and get the
right size
bearings - '93 and up are fitted bearings.
Wayne,
Don't do it man! The manual warns against it and
even describes a way to
tell if it's ever been done. There's a special
coating on the journals that
turns dull gray if it's been turned. You
can get away with some light
polishing with 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper but
machining it is a no-no.
-Bob
> Anybody out there who has rebuilt they're engine
(Bob, Arty, Jack, Adam)
> know of a highly competent place to have a
crankshaft turned and polished?
> I don't trust anybody here in memphis
(I'll probably get a response like;
> "uhh, that there's not no 5
liter") Or does anybody have a NEW crank and
> bearing set for
sale?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 15:36:36
1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"stealth" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:38:34
-0600
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Hey, For those of you interested. If we get
enough people together for a
purchase, I have arranged a price of 310.00 Plus
shipping for the autopower
roll bar.
The price of the bar should be secured up front, as I
believe we can have
the bars drop shipped.
Speak with Tim Meyers at Reigning Performance about
these bars.
Thanks,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 16:23:04
1999
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Subject: RE:
Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 18:25:15
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Hey, For those of you interested. If we get
enough people together for a
purchase, I have arranged a price of 310.00 Plus
shipping for the autopower
roll bar.
The price of the bar should be secured up front, as I
believe we can have
the bars drop shipped.
Speak with Tim Meyers at Reigning Performance about
these bars.
Correction: 512-454-4600 ( I forgot the
#)
Thanks,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 16:26:11
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: "Team3S"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc:
<middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FW: Need to borrow pre-cats
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:26:38
-0700
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I have a set or pre-cat eliminators being made by a
local shop.
Although not complete yet, I saw them yesterday and they
are
looking very good.
However, I told them they could hack up
my precats in order to
use the stock flanges to save some time. The
fabricator says
that if he is supplied a set of precats he will make a
proper jig
and have the flanges laser cut. My understanding is that
there
are some differences between the 91-93 and 94+ precats. If this
is indeed true then I suppose we'd need two sets of donors, or
one set
for each year where they are different.
The cats would be returned
in original condition, but that
transaction would be between the donor and
the local shop. Mine
are costing me around $300 for the set which
includes the bung
for the O2 sensors and the EGR on the rear one. A
firm price for
production units is yet to be determined and would be up to
the
fabricator. He did say he could provide JetHot ceramic coating
(they are local here in Phoenix) if desired for an additional
charge.
Mine are considered prototypes so according to the
fabricator any
future sets will likely be better quality depending upon how
well
mine work out.
Any takers? Please email privately
with positive responses at
beking@home.com.
Regards,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 17:27:08
1999
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Date:
Thu, 11 Mar 1999 14:49:44 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Team3S: 1996+ TT cars DO HAVE a pressure sensor !
References: <36E81E68.40A1831D@sprintmail.com>
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Surfing around on the 3S CD I found an interesting part
on the top back of the
manifold of the 1996+ TT cars : a MDP. They call it
manifold differential
pressure sensor and this means that for any reason
Mitsu added it to the car.
The output is directly attached to the ECU and
therefore provides real manifold
pressure compared to the calculated one in
our older cars.
Does anybody know more about the use of this sensor
(boost-dependant fuel cut,
etc.) ?
Thanks,
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 17:27:14
1999
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Re: Team3S: Car cover
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There is a cover called "Evolution 1". Some
of the Camaro/Firebird firends say
that it's perfect but expensive too. I
can't say where it is from but it's maybe
worth to search on the web for the
name.
Hope this helps :)
Roger
> the time has come that I
start thinking about a car cover for old
> girl. Unfortunately, I'm
moving and won't have a garage to keep it in
> so I'll need an "all
weather" type cover.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 17:59:27
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Autopower rollbar....
Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 17:47:35
-0700
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>Hi George,
>I would like to see the pic of
that roll bar.
>Thanks,
I'd like to see som pics of the bar installed
in one of our cars!!
I am interested in the bar buy [ not Barbe ] but
the car is a
daily driver there are some inconveniences up with
which
I will not put.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 18:43:48
1999
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Thu, 11 Mar 1999 20:41:43 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: lash adjuster question
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Lomcevak@aol.com
wrote:
> do hydraulic valve lash adjusters have to be bled/FULL of
oil
> when installed?
> if install adjusters minus a little oil,
will
> they bleed out/remain adjusted properly?
Yes, they will bleed the air out. Manual says rev
engine up and down
from idle to 3000 or some such, a few times, and ticking
goes away as
lash adjusters purge air/get proper.
> Or will they fill/bind again?
> Do I have
geometry/valve height problem causing cam binding?
I don't know. Unless you changed something to
nonstock there should be
no problem...
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 19:12:02
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 1996+ TT cars DO HAVE a pressure sensor
!
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<< Does anybody know more about the use of this
sensor (boost-dependant fuel
cut,
etc.) ? >>
Emissions.. OBD-II equipped VR4's tend to set the
check engine light off from
time to time due to the differential pressure
sensor, but it does not affect
performance (no fuel cut:).
Mopar (Chrysler) makes one that is custom fitted for
the Stealth. On a scale of 10 it's
about an 8...or you can go crazy and get
something totally outrageous. In the end, it's
all up to you.
Darc
92 TT Stealth...mods: moderately Stealthy
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 11 20:53:37
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fw: boost question for jack T. [ AKA xwing ]
Date: Thu, 11 Mar
1999 20:41:47 -0700
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What boost do you run at the track?? 1/4 mile,
with and without NOS,
also what do you run on the street for daily
driving and for street racing?
I'm trying to get a feel for what boost is
practical for a daily driver and
what is maximum boost without a ground up
rebuild [ eg. 10k to 15k dollars ]
Anyone else please respond also. I was interested in
Jacks car because i've
seen his times posted and I've read his war
stories.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
[ suspension mods next ]
xwing wrote:
>
> Yasuna J. Murakami wrote:
[snips]
>
> > Japanese car I really want for which I would sell
10 3000GT is mighty Nissan Skyline GTR.
> > stock form it could give
many supercars a run for its money.
> > 1000 HP is widely avaliable.
has real 4 wheel steering, all
> > wheel drive, with handling and
balance to match.
Well as I mentioned a couple of weeks back I had a
drive, then had a bit
of a race with a mate's GTR 33 Vspec which is stock . I
run only 13 psi
& no other mods & my VR4 eats it for breakfast . I
wouldn't swap my VR4
for any number of GTR's,... & as for styling
....they are a nice
"family" looking car.
Oh & by the way I
know a bloke who is putting out 600hp from his GTR &
the engine mods have
cost him $20k Aust ( about $13k US ) so work out
how much it would cost to
get it to 1000 hp, I don't know how widely
available they are either. I never
heard of one down here & there are
heaps of GTR's
around.
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 05:51:16
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankshaft turning
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In a message dated 99-03-11 16:03:13 EST, you
write:
<< Don't do it man! The manual warns
against it and even describes a way to
tell if it's ever been
done. There's a special coating on the journals that
turns dull
gray if it's been turned. You can get away with some
light
polishing with 1200 grit wet/dry sandpaper but machining it is a
no-no. >>
Just a little clarification here - the Mits
overhaul manual warns against
machining of the hardened cranks and specifies
the dull grey appearance is
indication whether it is hardened or not. (The
hardened cranks are dull grey).
Once any crank is turned and polished,
you will probably not be able to tell
the difference by looking at the
journals - they both will look nice and
shiny. Hope this helps.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 06:03:31
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crankshaft turning
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 07:04:09
-0700
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The crank itself can be machined for balancing purposes
but the journals
should not be cut for resizing since that will remove the
very thin surface
layer of metal that is impregnated with the hardening
compound.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Just a little clarification here - the
Mits overhaul manual
> warns against
> machining of the hardened
cranks and specifies the dull grey appearance is
> indication whether it
is hardened or not. (The hardened cranks
> are dull
grey).
> Once any crank is turned and polished, you will
probably not be
> able to tell
> the difference by looking at the
journals - they both will look nice and
> shiny. Hope this
helps.
>
> SteveC.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 07:26:54
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Re: Team3S: Crankshaft turning
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If you know of shop that can do it (and I don't), I
believe the process
involves impregnation of the surface layer(s) of metal
with nitrogen.
Seems there were several shops in southern California that
did this. I
recall reading about this in aircraft rags as nitrating
(spelling?)
became very popular for aircraft cranks and cam journals.
This makes
the surface incredibly strong.
Regards,
Lynn
'92ES 3/SI #0232
Barry E. King wrote:
>
> The crank itself
can be machined for balancing purposes but the
> journals
> should
not be cut for resizing since that will remove the very thin
>
surface
> layer of metal that is impregnated with the hardening
compound.
>
> Regards,
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
>
> > Just a little clarification here - the Mits
overhaul manual
> > warns against
> > machining of the
hardened cranks and specifies the dull grey
> appearance is
> >
indication whether it is hardened or not. (The hardened cranks
> > are
dull grey).
> > Once any crank is turned and polished, you
will probably not be
> > able to tell
> > the difference by
looking at the journals - they both will look nice
> and
> >
shiny. Hope this helps.
> >
> >
SteveC.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 07:59:13
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Team3S: Using spacers on wheels good/bad?
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Thanks everyone for your replies. Iv'e forwarded them
to the man who owns
the car that i'm working on. Hopefully he will just get a
new crank, as i
no longer want to take responsibility for installing one that
has been
turned. I do have one more question; A couple of you refered to a
manual
that talks about the crank. What manual is this? I can't find anything
in
the service manual that refers to the turnability, or hardening of
the
crank. Thanks again.....And thank god it's not my car that spun a
bearing!!!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 08:34:53
1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
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The manual I was refering to is the 3000GT
6G72 engine overhaul manual. It
is tough to find. I was able to get a very
kind list member to photocopy one
for me. If you have a newer car, you might
try Mits first - if not available,
I can help you with specific info from
mine.
The general manuals don't contain any overhaul-type info
in them - they are
quite "general" in content.
Thanks, i'll check into it....
At 11:34 AM 3/12/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>
> The manual I was refering to is the 3000GT 6G72
engine overhaul manual. It
>is tough to find. I was able to get a very
kind list member to photocopy one
>for me. If you have a newer car, you
might try Mits first - if not available,
>I can help you with specific
info from mine.
> The general manuals don't contain any
overhaul-type info in them - they are
>quite "general" in
content.
>
> - Steve
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Message-ID: <36E95F12.1073769B@adelphia.net>
Date:
Fri, 12 Mar 1999 13:38:11 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
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Re: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
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Has anyone thought of Knife edging the crank? I know it
was widely
debated on whether or not it actually enhances performance. I
remember
reading some threads about this from some other list. As I recall
I
think the domestic's used to use this with some actually
performance
gains, while I have heard some Honda guys trying it to do it with
out
any real gains and having a tendency to eat bearings.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 10:55:44
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 11:56:25
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I am curious as to how knife-edging the crank would
affect bearings?
Usually the crank throws are knife edged to reduce oil
aeration since they
can go through the oil in a wet sump system with less
drama. The only thing
I can think of off-hand is that if the Honda
crank relies heavily on splash
oiling maybe knife edging the Honda crank
reduces the oil seen by the
bearings. If that is the case though, there
should be easy fixes, so I
think that theory is a stretch.
*shrug*
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Has
anyone thought of Knife edging the crank? I know it was widely
> debated
on whether or not it actually enhances performance. I remember
> reading
some threads about this from some other list. As I recall I
> think the
domestic's used to use this with some actually performance
> gains, while
I have heard some Honda guys trying it to do it with out
> any real gains
and having a tendency to eat bearings.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 11:04:36
1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 14:00:21
-0500
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My crank has been knife edged. However, I haven't
got the motor back into
the car yet. I'm still waiting on the Ross
pistons. She will be up and
running by May.
>Has anyone thought of Knife edging the crank? I
know it was widely
>debated on whether or not it actually enhances
performance. I remember
>reading some threads about this from some other
list. As I recall I
>think the domestic's used to use this with some
actually performance
>gains, while I have heard some Honda guys trying it
to do it with out
>any real gains and having a tendency to eat
bearings.
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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This seems like alot of hassle
when their is a simple way to reduce oil
friction and aeration at the same
time - a windage tray. I have never figured
out why we dont have them - must
be some painfully obvious reason it wont work
on our engines that I am not
aware of.
Somebody tell me!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 12:00:56
1999
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OK, I am going to admit my ignorance. Please explain
"knife edging" the
crank. My contextual based guess is that
the metal between the journal
surfaces is somehow thinned down to reduce the
drag on the crank as it
passes through the oil sitting in the pan?? I
would think this would
require great care in rebalancing the crank (which
makes me think I have
guessed wrong).
Regards,
Lynn
'92 ES
Meyer wrote:
>
> My crank has been knife
edged. However, I haven't got the motor back
> into
> the car
yet. I'm still waiting on the Ross pistons. She will be up
>
and
> running by May.
>
> Matt
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 12:13:16
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 13:13:57
-0700
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A windage tray isn't designed to keep the crank from
splashing through the
oil in the oil pan. Many designs rely on splash
oiling for bottom end
lubrication. A windage tray is designed to keep
oil distribution more or
less consistent across the pan by keeping it from
moving to and fro which
will otherwise happen naturally under the forces of
acceleration or turning.
The main idea here is to keep the oil at the pickup
nice and deep and to
ensure the crank has plenty of oil across its
length.
A windage tray should work equally as effectively in
the 6G72 as in any
other engine so long as it is designed to clear the crank,
but it won't
replace the benefits of a knife edged crank, however small or
large they may
be.
The builder that did my engine doesn't seem to think
knife edged cranks show
any noticeable improvement for a primarily street
driven engine, but does
like aerodynamically sound crank throws especially
where high RPMs are
concerned. Makes sense. The 6G72 crank is
good in that respect.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> This seems like alot of
hassle when their is a simple way to
> reduce oil
> friction and
aeration at the same time - a windage tray. I have
> never figured
>
out why we dont have them - must be some painfully obvious reason
> it
wont work
> on our engines that I am not aware
of.
>
> Somebody tell
me!
>
> -SteveC
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6C9C.D198C2A0
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Has anyone thought of Knife edging the crank?
I
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE6C9C.D198C2A0--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 14:13:05
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth@starnet.net>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 16:12:46
-0600
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>Hey, For those of you interested. If we get
enough people together for a
>purchase, I have arranged a price of 310.00
Plus shipping for the autopower
>roll bar.
Brad-
Can you or someone describe for me how
much
"mutilation" to the stock interior would be necessary
to
install this roll bar? Thanks for any input.
Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 14:28:53
1999
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Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 14:27:53 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....
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> Brad-
> Can you or someone describe for me
how much
> "mutilation" to the stock interior would be
necessary
> to install this roll bar? Thanks for any input.
>
Regards, ptg
>
The rear speakers gota go!
George
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 14:45:31
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 14:33:34
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E.
King
>A windage tray isn't designed to keep the crank
from splashing through the
>oil in the oil pan. Many designs rely on
splash oiling for bottom end
>lubrication. A windage tray is
designed to keep oil distribution more or
>less consistent across the pan
by keeping it from moving to and fro which
>will otherwise happen
naturally under the forces of acceleration
or
turning.
snip>
Now I'm confused ??? I thought the oil pan
baffles kept the oil where you
wanted it and the windage tray cut down
turbulence and splashing!
Ack. Sorry, missed my meds :P
A windage tray will indeed reduce aeration by keeping
oil from splashing up
to the crank. It is sometimes incorporated into a
baffle but by itself will
indeed keep oil below the crank sweep for the very
reasons stated by the
original poster. Dunno what I was
thinking.
My mistake, and my apologies.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
<snip>
>
> Now I'm confused
??? I thought the oil pan baffles kept the oil
> where
you
> wanted it and the windage tray cut down turbulence and
splashing!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 15:59:41
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Electronic rear view mirror deal
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 19:03:00
-0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I have been in contact with Donnellye Electronic about
their rear view
mirrors. I have been trying to work out a deal if we
purchase in multiply
quantities.
Check out their site and if interested
let me know. I'm going to purchase
one but the more ordered the
better the price.
http://www.donnellye.com/mirror.htm
They
have two mirror and they are priced the same. They are:
1. Auto dimming mirror with compass and
temperature
2. Auto dimming mirror with compass and map lights.
A note the person (Frank) I been talking with said
about our cars:
"You drive a great car. My previous house mate has
one."
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6CBE.CAF20FC0
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I'm interested. But I want the lighting the same as our
interior lights, =
amber, not green as they advertise. Think you can see if
they can change =
the color for us?
Thanks
Bryan
I have been in contact with Donnellye Electronic about
their rear view
mirrors. I have been trying to work out a deal if we
purchase in =
multiply
quantities.
Check out their site and if
interested let me know. I'm going to =
purchase
one but the
more ordered the better the price.
http://www.donnellye.com/mirror.htm
They
have two mirror and they are priced the same. They are:
1. Auto dimming mirror with compass and
temperature
2. Auto dimming mirror with compass and map lights.
A note the person (Frank) I been talking with said
about our cars:
"You drive a great car. My previous house mate has
one."
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6CBE.CAF20FC0
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 12 21:45:18
1999
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From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Electronic rear view mirror deal
Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 23:54:50
-0600
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I'm not sure how expensive it is, but my Spyder's rear
view mirror comes
with map lights and is auto-dimming (no compass tho).
You might want to
check at a dealer to see if you can get one of those
cheaper (Tallahasse
Mitsubishi maybe?)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
I'm interested. But I want the lighting the same as
our interior lights,
amber, not green as they advertise. Think you can see if
they can change the
color for us?
Thanks
Bryan
I have been in contact with Donnellye Electronic about
their rear view
mirrors. I have been trying to work out a deal if we
purchase in multiply
quantities.
Check out their site and if interested
let me know. I'm going to purchase
one but the more ordered the
better the price.
http://www.donnellye.com/mirror.htm
They
have two mirror and they are priced the same. They are:
1. Auto dimming mirror with compass and
temperature
2. Auto dimming mirror with compass and map lights.
A note the person (Frank) I been talking with said
about our cars:
"You drive a great car. My previous house mate has
one."
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 13 19:23:30
1999
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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CC: "SI,
Three" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"Starnet, Stealth" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Carolina 3S Drivers
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I see that Marc Boulware is from the Carolinas (North I
believe) and I
live in Raleigh. I am wondering how many other 3S
Drivers we have on
the lists that live in the Carolinas. Maybe we can
get something going
around here.
I'd be happy to compile a list and keep track of it if
yall would like
to send me an email (off the list) with the pertinent
information.
Just so you don't think ill of my intentions, I work
for a software
company called Tivoli Systems, Inc. which is a wholly owned
but highly
independent subsidiary of IBM. My alternate email address is
lynn.larsen@tivoli.com and you can
check out our website at
www.tivoli.com. So you don't have to
worry about getting spammed or
anything like that because of me.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 13 19:31:31
1999
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From:
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Factory boost gauge replacement with SPI gauge
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999
21:30:53 -0600
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Has anyone replaced their factory boost gauge with an
SPI gauge? How well
does it mate to the factory mountings? Do you
have pictures?
Brent M.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 13 19:31:37
1999
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From:
"Brent & Tara Maksymiw" <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999
21:37:00 -0600
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What mounting places, other than using half of the
radio double DIN, are
people using for their boost controllers?
I remember seeing pictures of someone that mounted a
boost controller and
turbo timer in one of the center air vents. Does
anyone have a procedure
for this?
Any other good, easily accessible mounting
places? Please send pictures.
Brent M.
Brent & Tara Maksymiw wrote:
> What mounting places, other than using half of the
radio double DIN, are
> people using for their boost
controllers?
Mine is in the Center Console , I think it one of the
best places if you are trying to
be indiscreet
And you don't want your car
to look modded .
just my .02 cents
Irving - 96
VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 13 20:08:46
1999
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From:
"Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999
23:02:38 -0500
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>> What mounting places, other than using half of
the radio double DIN, are
>> people using for their boost
controllers?
I can tell you one place NOT to mount it...under
the dash.
My car had an EVC mounted under the dash when I bought
it...I thought
nothing
of it, until my accident. My leg hit the EVC so
hard it broke the top part
of the case. I was lucky not to have broken my
leg. The
underpart of the dash is specially designed to absorb impact;
don't put
anything in the way of safety engineering's less obvious
designs.
Robyn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 13 21:32:09
1999
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Message-ID: <36EB498E.C3E1D46C@adelphia.net>
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 00:30:54 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Organization:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 13 23:38:35
1999
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Team3S: 3S CD :)
References: <19990226184400.10637.qmail@hotmail.com>
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Dear Vineet,
After having the CD now for a week I must say it is
well made and helpful !
Thanks :)
BTW, people found some of their pictures and designs on
your colored pages,
including me (the brakes). Please keep in mind that each
picture is copyrighted
by the owner and it is not allowed to use them in any
way without the permission
of the owner. They also do NOT belong to 3si.org
as mentioned on the page, as I
only allowed them to use it on the page WITH
refering to my homepage.
I do not have a problem with the picture because I
really like how it looks, I
love it. But, whenever you use others pictures
please let them know so they do
not look angry when they notice
this.
Friends, I'd like to apologize for my
quick-mouse-click-send-to-the-list
mistake. This email was meant to be
private to Vineet and there is absolutely no
point that has to be discussed
here. Therefore, please do not respond to the
message, thanks.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 07:22:10
1999
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Sun, 14 Mar 1999 15:22:03 +0000 (GMT)
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 09:20:42
-0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Alldata repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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<001801be6e2e$4e073a00$0d8a18ce@u7qms>
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format.
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BE6DFB.EF073B40
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Has anyone purchased this cd manual from alldata.com. I
am looking for =
repair manuals for my stealth that cover interior as well as
exterior =
and engine and all.
Can anyone tell me if this cd covers enough
and is it worth the 24.95
=
Price.
=
Thanks Ken Taft
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
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bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Has
anyone purchased this cd manual =
from=20
alldata.com. I am looking for
repair manuals for my stealth that cover =
interior=20
as well as exterior
and engine and all.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Can anyone tell me if this cd covers enough and is =
it
worth=20
the 24.95
Price.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
Thanks
Ken Taft</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BE6DFB.EF073B40--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 07:40:57
1999
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Subject: Team3S: Soft clutch pedal problems
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My '91 vr4 is having some clutch inconsistencies. About
every 20th shift the
pedal moves through about 1/3 its stroke with virtually
no resistance before I
feel the normal pressure buildup. Releasing the clutch
pedal engages the
clutch very early - just after I start to let out the
clutch pedal. Normally
the clutch doesn't completely engage until I'm near
the end of the of the
clutch pedal stroke.
If I recognize the clutch pedal feeling soft before I
go full stroke on the
pedal movement I can regain normal clutch resistance by
pumping the pedal
through the soft zone several times. It is one of those
frustrating
intermittent things - I get normal operation 99% of the time.
Seems to happen
only after the car is warmed up.
I've been watching the fluid level in the clutch fluid
reservoir - doesn't
seem to be moving. If I am loosing clutch fluid it is
happening so slowly I
haven't seen it yet. Maint. records indicate master and
slave cylinders were
both replaced mid. 1997 in an attempt to fix poor
shifting (before the
transaxle was replaced). It is hard to imagine a failure
of one of these items
within two years...
I'm probably going to take the car in and have the
clutch system bled. Anybody
have any experience with this sort of thing?
Appreciate any suggestions.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 07:43:22
1999
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Date:
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alldata repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
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The AllData CD is not nearly as complete as the factory
manual. Not worth
buying in place of the real thing. Good only as a quick
general reference.
Arty 91 VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 08:16:06
1999
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Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 11:09:12 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Soft clutch pedal problems
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It sounds like this is the right thing to do for
starters. It sound as
though you may also be having problems with the
master or slave letting
fluid bypass the piston. Since these were
replaced recently and no
fluid is showing up where it doesn't belong, air in
the system is the
most likely culprit. I have bled my system from the
slave cylinder
which is almost directly below the throttle body. You will
probably want
to bleed it until you have completly displaced the old
fluid. You
should see a color difference in your catch jar when the new
fluid
reaches the bleeder. (Clutch and brake fluid is water soluble and
water
in the system can be bad for the metallic parts.) You might want
to
look into speed bleeders for this and the brake cylinders. Check out
http://www.speedbleeder.com/. This can
make bleeding a one person job
instead of a two person job. Ken
Middaugh (on this list) suggests:
"Install a 10mm x 1.0 Speedbleeder
bleed screw for $6.50, part # SB1010.
I use Valvoline's new synthetic DOT 4
in clutch & brakes. It's boiling
point is over 500 degrees and a
big bottle cheap, < $5 or maybe < $10."
Regards,
Lynn '92 ES 3/SI #0232
A good place to mount boost controllers, turbo timers,
etc. is in the
center counsel armrest. The part in front of the
removable cup holder
tray. There is even a small cutout that can be
removed from underneath
to run the wires through. I like this location
for three reasons. First
it keeps everything out of view from possible
thieves, second it keeps it
out of direct sunlight which might hurt the
screen, and last nobody can
accidently change settings by bumping it.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 10:25:39
1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question for the highyl intelligent on turbo vs. super charging
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 13:23:34 -0500
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I was talking to some people and I was curious if
anybody on here had ever
thought if switching out their turbos for a
supercharger. I know we are
limited on space but wouldn't the benefits
be better? Wouldn't it be faster
even then the most upgraded
turbo? It gives a constant power instead of
just after a certain
rpm. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 10:39:53
1999
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Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 12:40:15 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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To:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alldata repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
References:
<001801be6e2e$4e073a00$0d8a18ce@u7qms>
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Ken Taft wrote:
> Has anyone purchased this cd manual from
alldata.com. I am looking
> for repair manuals for my stealth that cover
interior as well as
> exterior and engine and all.Can anyone tell me if
this cd covers
> enough and is it worth the 24.95 Price.
Ken,
I
bought an ALLDATA CD from Auto Zone for my Jeep
Wrangler(although I think the
CD has the Stealth on it too). In my
opinion, it is the biggest ripoff
scam ever marketed. You have no idea
what it's like until you get it
home, and tehy wouldn't take it back
because I was dissatisfied with
it. I'm on the verge of using mine for
a coaster to set my drink
on. It's difficult to navigate, and not that
helpful when you do find
what you need.
My opinion, Don't buy it. It's
a waste of money.
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 10:45:21
1999
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question for the highyl intelligent on turbo vs. super
charging
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 12:38:45 -0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
The problem with superchargers is that they need the
engine to do the work
of spinning the unit. Since turbos use a
byproduct (exhaust), they are
more efficient. When you install a 200hp
supercharger you get 100-125
usable hp. This is due to the strain that
the engine is under due to
turning the supercharger. They are also a
bit more expensive then turbos.
If you ask a "new" muscle
head .. the ones putting supercharges on there
mustangs, most will tell you
that they would rather have a turbo (which
they now make for mustangs). As
for powerband ... It is nice to have a
preset RPM=xboost . But
as far as racing goes, our turbos kick in at 3000
RPM's ... If your ever
below 3000 RPM's and someone is racing you... your
not racing
:)
I was talking to some people and I was curious if
anybody on here had ever
thought if switching out their turbos for a
supercharger. I know we are
limited on space but wouldn't the benefits
be better? Wouldn't it be
faster
even then the most upgraded
turbo? It gives a constant power instead of
just after a certain
rpm. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 11:02:15
1999
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'team3s'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tranny question.
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 12:55:43 -0500
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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bulk
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
On the side of the tranny that faces the passenger side
wheel, there is a
drain plug. Above the drain plug about 12 inches is
a hole. It seems to
have a shaft that spins inside. Is there
supposed to be a cap on the end
of this hole? When I have the engine
running I can put my hand up there
and feel it spinning. Is this
right? I know it's supposed to spin (duh)
but this is where my tranny
fluid seems to be coming out. Maybe I'm
missing a cover \
cap?
Brian
93 VR-4
RedLine fluid spitting tranny mod
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6E28.A7759240
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Brian, there is a black cap on the back of the trans.
It would be facing =
the pass. tire. This black cap has a o-ring, so if
missing you'd =
definietly leak fluid. It's about 2" in diameter. Inside
is the rear =
gear assem. and would be spinning with the car running. If
missing, try =
Frank at Kormax, they seem to have used trans. around, they
might have =
one.
----------
From: Brian Danley[SMTP:bcdmad@concentric.net]
Sent:
Sunday, March 14, 1999 12:55 PM
To: 'team3s'
Subject: Team3S:
Tranny question.
On the side of the tranny that faces the passenger side
wheel, there is =
a=20
drain plug. Above the drain plug about 12
inches is a hole. It seems =
to=20
have a shaft that spins
inside. Is there supposed to be a cap on the =
end=20
of this
hole? When I have the engine running I can put my hand up there
=
and feel it spinning. Is this right? I know
it's supposed to spin =
(duh)=20
but this is where my tranny fluid seems
to be coming out. Maybe I'm=20
missing a cover \ cap?
Brian
93 VR-4
RedLine fluid spitting tranny mod =20
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6E28.A7759240
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 11:41:32
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Factory boost gauge replacement with SPI gauge
Date: Sun, 14 Mar
1999 13:38:37 -0600
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>Has anyone replaced their factory boost gauge with
an SPI gauge? How well
>does it mate to the factory mountings?
Do you have pictures?
>Brent M.
Brent,
the factory boost gauge is integrated with the water
temp and oil pressure
gauges. So if you replace one you will have to
replace all three. In order
to get access to the gauge assembly you
need to remove the dash. I am in
the process of doing just this.
I am replacing the gauge assembly with
Autometer gauges. I will post
pictures when I'm done.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 13:58:11
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Question for the highyl
intelligent on turbo vs. super charging
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in regards to the supercharger vs. turbo-i have
a supercharged mustang
that i would turbo charge in a heartbeat if i could
find some one to buy
my supercharger. turbocharging is a little more
diffucult but well worth
the extra trouble for the power you can get out of
it.
my 2 cents worth
Travis
94 laser awd
looking for stealth/3000 gt tt
Any recommendations on using spacers on drag
wheels.
Is this a definite no no?
Arty 91
VR-4
=================================
Arty...
Some say "no" to spacers under any condition.
The shop manager where I have
my engine work done says "they're fine,
provided you have at least 3/4" of
thread left to engage on the
stud". I think the risk is related to cornering
and lateral forces,
where less threads engaged on the lugnuts/studs create
the risk of shearing
the remaining threads and causing a wheel to come loose
at high speeds.
I have a set from JC Whitney (aluminum, 5/16"
thick) that were less than $10
each. I'm still trying to decide what to do
about tires and wheels so I
haven't used them yet.
Personally, I'd say you're in little danger running the
1/4 mile.
Sounds like you've got the beast apart. Drop me a line
privately some time,
let me know how the project is going. BTW...I still have
the pictures for
you, just haven't made it to the post office.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 15:14:57
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: K&N Oil Filters
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What is the exact oil filter part# for the 3000GT
??
One parts shop told me HP-1005 another HP-1004 ...
what's right ?
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> What is the exact
oil filter part# for the 3000GT ??
>
> One parts shop told me
HP-1005 another HP-1004 ... what's right ?
>
> Thanks,
>
Roger
I just put one on last week and it was a
HP-1004.. As I recall, it seemed
that model year didn't matter..
they were all the same application..
sidenote: I just experienced the unintended loss
of acceleration mod..
the y-pipe blew off the intake.. of
course, it happened to be while I
was giving someone a ride to impress
them.. and of course I didn't figure
out what had happened until after
they left.. sigh.. :)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 16:26:44
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From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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Re: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
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A few general and not so general comments:
All engines are designed to keep clearance between
crank (con-rod bolts) and oil level.
Oil pans are designed such that even
when your car is overfilled with oil (say 1/2 quart
over) and you are
climbing a 5% grade (this is more pertinent to longitudinal engines)
the
crank will clear the oil.
If the crank did hit the oil in your sump, a drastic
drop in power output would result.
Imagine swinging a golf club as hard as
you can through air, then do so hitting water,
your arms will feel the
difference. As soon as a crank contacts the oil, the oil will
begin to
aerate, effectively raising your oil level (the air submerged in the oil
as
small bubbles displaces other oil, raising the oil level), encouraging
further
aeration. In severe cases, this can progress until your oil
aerates beyond 15% (drop in
specific gravity) leading to engine failure
(especially at higher engine speeds) as
critical components starve for oil
for lubrication and heat removal. Some 4x4 readers
may have experienced
this if they brought the vehicle beyond a safe limit while crawling
over
boulders.
Don't worry (unless you overfill your sump), Mitsubishi
engineers designed the oil pan
with enough volume to keep the oil away from
the crank. Baffles are added to keep oil
at the oil pickup and to keep
oil from contacting the crank under severe maneuvers
(slalom and panic stops
are worst).
> Many designs rely on splash oiling for bottom
end
> lubrication.
The bore walls are the only bottom end component that
rely on splash. All others have
direct oiling from main galley.
(Another common splash lubricated component on engines
are timing drive
chains - but the 3.0L uses a belt drive)
A windage tray reduces windage by keeping the oil away
from the turbulent environment in
the crank case. The crank creates
turbulence in the crankcase as do the bay to bay
pressure differentials
caused by the pistons moving up and down (excessive blowby can
also
contribute). A windage tray attempts to keep the oil in the sump as well
as the
oil returning to the sump away from these turbulences. By doing
so, oil aeration is
minimized and the effective density of the air residing
by the crank is reduced. The
lower you can keep the density near the
crank, the better. (many dry sump systems
actually place a vacuum on
crankcase to better scavenge the oil and to reduce the air
density, allowing
the crank to spin more freely). The knife edge crank also frees up
some
power by making it easier for the counterweights to slice through a given
air
density easier. ("Hank the Crank" bases his Nascar
crankshaft business on this
principle). It is important to note that
all windage trays must allow oil to pass
through them so oil that falls from
the mains and rods can return to the sump.
> A windage tray should work equally as effectively
in the 6G72 as in any
> other engine so long as it is designed to clear
the crank, but it won't
> replace the benefits of a knife edged crank,
however small or large they may
> be.
Not necessarily true, properly designed trays can reap
big benefits on high revving wet
sump engine. Ideally, you would want
both knife edged crank and a windage tray.
Packaging on the 3000GT/Stealth
makes windage tray design particularly difficult.
Whereas you can modify
cranks on virtually any engine and reap the benefits (just be
careful to keep
the crank balanced with the reciprocating mass - piston, pin, and small
end
of conrod) Another power saver not mentioned yet are scrapers which remove
the oil
from the counterweights as they sweep by.
In review, when properly designed, the following will
always free up power:
Dry sump - remotely locates oil from crank &
convienetly allows a vacuum to be placed on
sump. And for you racers,
this will allow a shallower oil pan so you can drop the
engine and maintain
ground clearance if the oil pan was the lowest part.
Windage tray - attempts
to separate the crank from the sump and oil returning to the
sump resulting
in less oil in the air near the crank. Windage tray also reduces
oil
aeration.
Knife edged crank - will use less power to rotate through a
given density of air/oil
Scraper - removes oil clinging to crank and rods
which in turn lowers the crank inertia
(this will not necessarily free up
power but allow the engine to accelerate through the
rpms
quicker)
I'll stop here in fear of boring you. Comments
welcomed.
Joe Gonsowski
92 TT Stealth
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 21:01:46
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....
Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 23:01:27
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>> Can you or someone describe for me how
much
>> "mutilation" to the stock interior would be
necessary
>> to install this roll bar? Thanks for any
input.
>The rear speakers gota go!
Wow! That's a pretty heavy price. What
else?
Regards, ptg
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost
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<< I can tell you one place NOT to mount
it...under the dash. >>
That's a good point. If you do almost all
of your driving alone, like I do,
the passenger side under the glove box
works well, though. It is easy to
reach with wiring, and the controller
can be mounted in the center, where
neither leg "seems" likely to
contact the dash in a crash.
Henry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> Subject: Team3S: Using spacers on wheels
good/bad?
>
just as a note to what has already been
said....
if you are running aftermarket wheels with acorn
lug nuts and decide to use a
spacer, there are lug nuts out called et
lugnuts. they have about an extra1/4 inch of
engagment that goes into the
wheel.
Travis
94
laser awd
looking for a stealth/3000 gt tt
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 14 22:32:28
1999
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Date: Sun, 14 Mar 1999 22:32:38 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....
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Hi Paul,
That's about all the mutilation to the
interior.. other than that..
the passenger seat will not recline at all cuz
of the diagnal bar..
the driver seat is adjustable, but can't fully recline
either... the
rear seats are virtually useless.. but u can sit an adult
sideways..
hope this will help in ur decision.
George
p.s. Knowing the above sacrafications,
I put the roll bar in anyways.
I rolled my previous car (Eagle Talon
turbo) and the roll bar saved
me from serious injuries..
---"Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com> wrote:
>
>
>> Can you or someone describe for me how much
> >>
"mutilation" to the stock interior would be necessary
> >>
to install this roll bar? Thanks for any input.
>
> >The
rear speakers gota go!
>
>
> Wow! That's a pretty
heavy price. What else?
> Regards, ptg
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Please don't! It looks like there was a lot of
folklore and speculation
spread during this thread. Thanks for setting
us right.
-Bob
>
> I'll stop here in fear of boring
you. Comments welcomed.
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 06:08:17
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Just a couple more notes
possibly worth mentioning.
On at least some engines (such as my
Chrysler big block 383), the windage
tray (factory installed on the hi-po
engines) increases horsepower by reducing
oil friction losses on the crank. I
have seen first hand the benefits on these
engines. Very easy and
inexpensive (both good things).
Also, on the turbocharger 6G72
engines, oil spray is used to help cool the
insides of the pistons. I imagine
the cylinder walls also benefit from this
indirectly. This is not done by
"splashing" per se by the crank - but by oil
jets that tap directly
into the main bearings oil supply. These are not used
on the non-turbo
engines.
Thats all.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 09:15:01
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Getting ready to order a dual setup from Westach. The
probe's are 2 1/2 " x
3/16" each. I have both front and rear
pre-cats out of car. Is mounting them
in the precat housing a good or bad
idea? Should I mount them in the exhaust
manifold instead ? If I mount them
in the precat's I will weld on the bung and
get the 1/8" npt probe's. I
had seen somewhere that the optimal probe position
is 10" from flame
center. Is this true, and if so where was this fact
obtained
from?
Dave 93 VR4 - So many questions, so little
time.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 09:21:14
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From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: EGT Probe
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 12:20:58 -0500
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Dave, if possible, put them in your manifold
collectors. Some people put
them in the turbine funnel. The
10" number seems right. The precat area is
too far
downstream. Your readings will be 3-400 degrees too cool and will
be
slow to respond.
-Bob
> Getting ready to order a dual setup from Westach.
The probe's are
> 2 1/2 " x
> 3/16" each. I have both
front and rear pre-cats out of car. Is
> mounting them
> in the
precat housing a good or bad idea? Should I mount them in
> the
exhaust
> manifold instead ? If I mount them in the precat's I will weld
on
> the bung and
> get the 1/8" npt probe's. I had seen
somewhere that the optimal
> probe position
> is 10" from flame
center. Is this true, and if so where was this
> fact obtained
>
from?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 10:04:23
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3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Y-pipe question
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 12:01:26
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Does anyone know if the Y-pipes are identical on the
first and second =
gen. cars? If not, what is the
difference?
Thanks,
Oskar
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Does anyone know if the
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second gen. cars? If
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 12:15:45
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> Does anyone know if the Y-pipes are identical on
the first and second gen.
> cars? If not, what is the
difference?
No difference for any years. Only the internal part of
the piping AFTER the MAS
changed slightly (where the bypass valve is venting
to). But thiis is not the
y-pipe :)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 12:39:01
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Dave,
At least on aircraft, I have always seen them in the
manifold on the
hottest cylinder. With a water cooled engine, unless there is
some
obvious hindrance of water flow around any one cylinder, there
shouldn't
be a "hottest" cylinder, but I would think that the
manifold would still
be the place for it.
Regards,
Lynn
Dskull@aol.com
wrote:
>
> Getting ready to order a dual setup from Westach. The
probe's are 2
> 1/2 " x 3/16" each. Should I mount them in
the exhaust manifold
> instead ?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 13:02:54
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Re: Team3S: Alldata repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
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I also bought the Alldata CD. I think it has most of
the info from the
factory manual in it. It's just impossible to find what
you're looking for.
If you are patient enough most of the info can be found,
but there is a lot
of really basic stuff not in there. The only good thing I
can recommend it
for (other than a frisbee) is the TSB's, but they cost
extra. Buy the
factory manual, and if you want a cd buy the one from the dsm
guy.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 13:41:50
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I went back into the archives recently and came across
a thread discussing
turbo size, injector size etc. In an attempt to
understand some of the
concepts and the reasons behind them I will list out
some true / false
statements. Please correct any false or erroneous
statements. I really wish to
understand the "big picture"
.
Turning up boost on stock turbo's. At some point (
around 1.05 bars )
detonation
will occur. If this is caused by a
lean condition additional fuel will correct
it. If, on the other hand it is
caused by increased air temp at throttle body,
which also
can cause
detonation, then bigger capacity intercoolers may help to
some
degree.
Larger turbo's will SUSTAIN a higher boost level. I do
not see any other
reason
for larger turbo's
Hardpipe intercooler upgrade will stop the hose
expansion that occurs with the
stock pipes. This helps how ?
The more air supplied, the more fuel required. So as
soon as bigger turbo's
installed fuel pump and injector upgrades required
along with VPC type
controller, larger fuel rails, and fuel lines.
LOTTSA MULA
END OF QUIZ - So it seems to me that it's a
viscous circle. More boost , more
fuel, etc. At some point we are
limited by the air we can pull through the
stock MASC( unless someone can
build a supercharger to feed the turbo's. And
we are limited to the boost the
bottom end can handle ( 30 PSI ? ) . Is ANY of
what I stated correct, or am I
way out in left field?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 17:51:51
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> Turning up boost on stock turbo's. At some point (
around 1.05 bars )
> detonation will occur. If this is caused by a lean
condition additional fuel
> will correct it. If, on the other hand it is
caused by increased air temp at
> throttle body, which also can cause
detonation, then bigger capacity
> intercoolers may help to some
degree.
We had still rich conditions and intake temperature
increased not a lot. Knock
occured due to the low octane level. Increasing
fuel deliviery, also known as
dumping fuel, helps to cool the chamber down
but is wasting energy and you're
still not on the save side. Bigger IC
devinitely help to lower the intake
temperature what finally allows you to
increase boost.
> Larger turbo's will SUSTAIN a higher boost level.
I do not see any other
> reason for larger turbo's
They are able to give you a larger ammount of
compressed air with the same boost
level. With this you'll get more power at
the same boost level as with smaller
ones.
> Hardpipe intercooler upgrade will stop the hose
expansion that occurs with the
> stock pipes. This helps how
?
Depends on the boost level. They do not really expand
on any boost below 1.5bars
! The advantage of the hardpipes is that they are
taking up the temperature from
the ambient without letting the internal air
heating up as well as internal heat
can be transferred to the
metal.
> The more air supplied, the more fuel required. So as
soon as bigger turbo's
> installed fuel pump and injector upgrades
required along with VPC type
> controller, larger fuel rails, and fuel
lines. LOTTSA MULA
Si, but the fuel rails and lines are ok until you go
really the hard way :)
Injs, AFC, pump runs for about $1500
:/
> END OF QUIZ - So it seems to me that it's a viscous
circle. More boost , more
> fuel, etc. At some point we are limited
by the air we can pull through the
> stock MASC( unless someone can build
a supercharger to feed the turbo's. And
> we are limited to the boost the
bottom end can handle ( 30 PSI ? ) .
Well your statements are absolutely correct. At an
university in Switzerland
they developed a turbo with an e-motor attached.
The baby acts as an alternator
as well and makes the heavy thing obsolute and
when needed it keeps the turbos
spooling (with a combination of wastegates)
or even can spool them up. They are
somewhat far away from mass
production.
30 PSI limitation is far enough, hehe (grin, smile)
You're rings will get blown
pretty quick with that boost :)
Remember, the main key thing is that our cars are
tending to get early
detonation that finally retards the timing. You exactly
lined this out in your
post but you also have to mention the octane level you
like to run. Increasing
the fuel amount helps to cool down the chamber but
this is not the solution as
the stock injectors max out quickly and the fuel
pump becomes a hick-up. Dumping
fuel into the chambers increases this but it
will wash out your walls and the
rings are getting worn more quickly. So
increasing octane or decreasing the
temperature of the chamber are the ways
to go. Therefore racing gas is required
as well as big injectors, a control
unit and a good cooling device. Multo Lira !
Also multo lira (starts at around 300£ UK ) but
somewhat good investion is a
water
injection system. The water/alcohol
mixture will be sprayed into the airstream
after the IC (or before the TB).
This cools down the combustion chamber and
gives you knock-stabilityas you'd
run on gas with up to 160 octane. But as you
said, more pressure -> more
air -> more fuel and our system maxes out pretty
soon.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 18:38:29
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo 101
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 20:43:25 -0600
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<snip>They are able to give you a larger
ammount of compressed air with the
same boost
>level. With this you'll
get more power at the same boost level as
with
smaller
>ones.<snip>
This statement is a little deceiving. Larger
turbos will flow more air, and
are >capable< of more horsepower for a
given boost level, but this will only
happen if your engine is capable of
flowing more air. I.E. 15lbs of boost
on an engine that flows more air
than stock, will make more horsepower than
a stock engine at 15lbs of
boost.
You will not get more horsepower going to larger turbos
if the stock ones
are capable of holding boost. I.E. if stock turbos
can hold 12lbs of boost
(for example) on a stock engine, 12lbs of boost with
ONLY bigger turbos will
not create more power. If a turbo is incapable
of providing the airflow
required, you will notice the pressure drop to a
level at which the turbo
can supply the appropriate airflow.
Brent Maksymiw
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 15 20:34:42
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From:
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To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Turbo 101
Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 22:27:46
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Not true. With the bigger turbos you have a
higher cfm squared rate. On
the stock turbos at 15psi they flow 295
cfm's ... 13g's flow 365 cfm and
15g's flow 404-408 cfm's (something like
that). So 15psi is different with
bigger turbos.
I'm not sure how this works ... I assume it makes the
air more dense by
pushing it faster or something....It's just something I
read.
Turbo God's Pleas Enlighten Us
Brian
<snip>They are able to give you a larger
ammount of compressed air with the
same boost
>level. With this you'll
get more power at the same boost level as
with
smaller
>ones.<snip>
This statement is a little deceiving. Larger
turbos will flow more air,
and
are >capable< of more horsepower for
a given boost level, but this will
only
happen if your engine is capable
of flowing more air. I.E. 15lbs of boost
on an engine that flows more
air than stock, will make more horsepower than
a stock engine at 15lbs of
boost.
You will not get more horsepower going to larger turbos
if the stock ones
are capable of holding boost. I.E. if stock turbos
can hold 12lbs of boost
(for example) on a stock engine, 12lbs of boost with
ONLY bigger turbos
will
not create more power. If a turbo is
incapable of providing the airflow
required, you will notice the pressure
drop to a level at which the turbo
can supply the appropriate
airflow.
Brent Maksymiw
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<< So 15psi is different with bigger
turbos.
I'm not sure how this works ... I assume it makes the air more
dense by
pushing it faster or something....It's just something I read.
>>
A) Aren't the turbos themselves a restriction in the
flow of air through the
engine? By using larger turbines and larger
compressors (which are less
restrictive), more air should be able to flow
through the engine at the same
pressure, so more horsepower can be produced
at the same psi.
B) Larger compressor wheels can move the same amount of air
as the smaller
turbo, while they spin at a slower speed, causing less
friction with the air
they are pumping and perhaps less turbulence and
heating of the air before it
even gets to the intercoolers. Cooler
air=more horsepower.
Henry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>Larger turbos will flow more air,
and
>>are >capable< of more horsepower for a given boost level,
but this will
only
>>happen if your engine is capable of flowing
more air. I.E. 15lbs of boost
>>on an engine that flows more air
than stock, will make more horsepower
than
>>a stock engine at 15lbs
of boost.
Correct....
the reason is that the bigger turbos
will "beat" the air less. Thus the
compressed air will be
cooler...
And the cooler the air, the better
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From:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo 101
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 07:42:09 -0600
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>A) Aren't the turbos themselves a restriction
in the flow of air through
the
>engine? By using larger turbines
and larger compressors (which are less
>restrictive), more air should be
able to flow through the engine at the
same
>pressure, so more
horsepower can be produced at the same psi.
This may be true. All I
really wanted to stress is that you must
decrease the engines resistance to
air flow to get more horsepower at a
given boost. If the engines
resistance to airflow remains the same at a
given rpm, a given boost
pressure will always cause the same airflow. It
is the boost pressure
that drives airflow. I guess I should have thought
this through a
little better before posting. A larger turbo will decrease
the engines
resistance to airflow by allowing air to flow easier through
the
exhaust. However, it would be my guess the resistance is
substantially
larger in the engine internals (heads, etc) than in the
turbo. If this is
the case, the larger turbo would change the overall
resistance to airflow
only slightly.
>B) Larger compressor wheels can move the same
amount of air as the smaller
>turbo, while they spin at a slower speed,
causing less friction with the
air
>they are pumping and perhaps less
turbulence and heating of the air before
it
>even gets to the
intercoolers. Cooler air=more horsepower.
Sorry, I stand corrected.
I forgot about the effect of heat. There
will definitely be a heat
advantage with larger turbos. The turbo gods will
have to answer how
much of an effect. I wonder if there is anyone who has
dyno'd a 3S at
the same boost pressure (one at which the stock turbos are
capable of
maintaining boost) before and after a turbo upgrade, with no
other
modification. It would also be interesting to take airflow
measurements
before and after a turbo upgrade to see how much it has
changed.
Brent M.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 06:49:33
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I don't see how larger turbo's ALONE can increase HP.
If I am running 14 psi
on stock turbo's all the way to redline in all gears,
and I put in larger
turbo's and
run at 14 psi all the to redline in all
gears NO difference in HP. UnnnnnLess
the larger turbo's are delivering
the 14 psi at a lower temp. to the IC pipes.
If this is indeed true, then the
lower temp will in fact deliver a denser air
charge
to the intake. This I
can see creating more HP. Now the question is how much
of a temp.
difference is seene between stock and bigger turbo's at the same
boost
level. Stage two would be increasing the cooling capacity of the
IC
system to lower the temp. at the intake, making more HP potentially.
Stage
three would be to increase the pipe size ALL the way from the turbo's
to the
engine, which would have to include IC piping, IC cooler connections,
Y pipe,
throttle body, intake plenum, and intake manifold. At the same
we need to
increasing the fuel delivery system to maintain a decent air/fuel
ratio. It
seems to me that increasing the pipe size all the way is close to
impossible,
so the next best way is to crank up the boost on the bigger
turbo's to acheive
a larger amount of air delivered, hopefully without
incurring too much of a
temp. increase. I would love to take a car through
all of the stages after
installing every possible recording device including
Tod Day Datalogger, EGT
probes, temp probes in various locations, air/fuel
ratio, psi, etc, etc. AND
have access to a AWD Dyno. Sorry for the long
post, but I would like to
understand the process instead of just tossing
money at it.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 07:38:26
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Anyone know the different types of Pagid brake pads
?
Where is a good place to get them ?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 07:39:35
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Does anyone know the stock fuel pump spec's ?
How
does the FPR work ? Is it boost dependent or is it constant.
Once again, trying to understand basics before spending
$$$$$$$$
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 07:50:29
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock Fuel Specs ?????
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The stock fuel pump is rated at 180 lph @ 43
psi.
The FPR is boost dependant and set for roughly 1 psi of
FP for each pound of
boost. The stock FPR seems to top aout around 55
psi but some people see
more or less then that.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
Does anyone know the stock fuel pump spec's ?
> How does the FPR work
? Is it boost dependent or is it constant.
>
> Once again,
trying to understand basics before spending $$$$$$$$
>
>
>
Dave 93 VR4
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Hi I asked the same question a few weeks ago and Bob
Fontana gave me this answer:
Bob wrote:
Fuel pressure changes as boost increases. The
stock pressure regulator increases fuel pressure 1 PSI for every PSI of
boost. Pressure at idle is 43 PSI. When the charge air pressure in
the intake manifold increases (where the injectors happen to be trying to push
fuel into) fuel pressure must be increased correspondingly overcome manifold
pressure.
So, if you are using 20 PSI of boost, you want to be
able to maintain 63 PSI of fuel pressure. The stock FPR appears to be able
to handle it pressure-wise, but I'm not sure that the stock pump and injectors
can supply enough fuel to match the A/F ratio needed at 20 PSI.
As an aside, when the RPMs are increased to over 3000,
the shunt on the fuel pump is bypassed, increasing the voltage to the pump which
helps maintain pressure when not under boost. That's my understanding from
the manual, anyway. (Barry can probably give a far more detailed
description).
-Bob
>Does anyone know the stock fuel pump spec's ?
>How does the FPR work ? Is it boost dependent or is it
constant.
>
>Once again, trying to understand basics before spending
$$$$$$$$
>
>
>Dave 93 VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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> I don't see how larger turbo's ALONE can increase
HP. If I am running 14 psi
> on stock turbo's all the way to redline in
all gears, and I put in larger
> turbo's and
> run at 14 psi all the
to redline in all gears NO difference in HP. UnnnnnLess
> the larger
turbo's are delivering the 14 psi at a lower temp. to the IC pipes.
If I understand correctly, cfm is just as
important a factor as psi, and the two don't
go hand in hand. From what
I gather, a more restrictive system could account for higher
psi yet not flow
as much air, cfm, which would be a hinderance. This theory is
supported
by a previous post stating how many cfm various turbos can flow. This
raises
another question in my mind, wouldn't cfm be the important measurement
when thinking
about the fuel system? Wouldn't more cfm=more air and a
higher need for more fuel
regardless of the pressure?
Jason
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>From general fluid mechanics: from the outlet of
the turbo, through the
IC, through the Y pipe, through the throttle body,
intake manifold, head
ports, around the valves and into the cylinders there
is a give amount
of drag created. The drag is created by the side walls--the
shape, size
and materials they are made of; intrusions into the air path
(valve
stems, etc) and turns in the path. I think everybody can agree on
that.
Now, given the drag there is a point at which, no matter how much
you
increase the pressure in the path, you will not be able to increase
the
flow through that path with temperature held constant. (Yes as
you
increase pressure to infinity there will always be some increase
in
flow, but the point I am talking about is when the increase in flow
is
so small for a given increase in pressure as to be considered
non
existent.) Everybody OK with that? (This is the concept that gives
the
most problem: if you graphed pressure=X vs flow=Y there would come
a
time when the graph would become, in essence, perfectly vertical.)
Now
what ever the flow is at that time lets call that the max flow. So
turbo
A will attain this max flow at some pressure, but turbo B, being
a
larger turbo, can attain this same flow at a much lower pressure.
As
someone mentioned here something comes into play, the higher
the
pressure the higher the heat. This is not a good thing and we must
add
IC to A to maintain that constant temp, but this will also increase
the
resistance so there is only so far we can go with this. The bottom
line
of this lengthy discussion is that I believe you would end up with
more
power from the larger turbo once it got up to RPM. You have to
keep in
mind that spool up of turbo A and B would be analogous to A
(smaller)
being 1st gear and B (larger) being 4th gear with regard to
the
mechanical advantage given to the energy imparted from the exhaust
to
the turbo with which to pump air. This becomes the final trade off
when
deciding how big of a turbo to use because, as we all know, turbo
lag
isn't considered a good thing either.
This can all be calculated out; but, the mathmatics
involved are
extremely complex because gases are not pure fluids. They
have
compressability; so, we can't talk about just flow (notice my
caveat
above). We have to look at the total number of gas molecules
which,
along with resistance, is proportional to the pressure and
temperature.
Regards,
Lynn
>>The turbo gods will have to answer how much of
an effect.
Well, I don't think I qualify as a Turbo God, but I may
have
an answer
>> I wonder if there is anyone who has
dyno'd a 3S at the same
>>boost pressure (one at which the stock turbos
are capable of
>>maintaining boost) before and after a turbo upgrade,
with no
>>other modification.
Well, sort of....
I never dynoed a 3S, but I indeed did exactly that with
my 300 Zx
(just for the fun).
Everything being corrected to standard conditions, the
power jumped by
a good 20%, at the same PSI. But keep in mind that the Z
exhaust is big
enough
to flow.
And keep in mind that the measure was done on a
dyno, where the car is
stationary,
so there was no real good airflow
to the intercoolers...
I know that on some 4 cylinders, WITH THE EXHAUST
REMOVED, a "bigger" turbo
could yield to TWICE as much air going
through the engine....but if you fit
the STOCK
exhaust back on the car,
then it's possible that this "big" turbine couldn't
push
hard
enough to clear the exhaust.
>>It would also be interesting to take
airflow
>>measurements before and after a turbo upgrade to see how much
it has
>>changed.
Should be a direct correlation with the HP
increase.
And, BTW, that's the correct way of doing things. And
that's why these
"upgrade
charts" based on BOOST PRESSURE are
getting it wrong
I saw people replacing the stock turbos, thinking
"if I use the same boost,
then I use the same amount of fuel",
while in fact they were
maxing out their stock injectors, and experiencing
massive detonation.
Best regards
Henri
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 12:28:46
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Ok, at the risk of showing my real I.Q. level I am
still perplexed about turbo
flow rates. In terms that I can comprehend
--- I gotta 2 in. IC pipe. Say
with a stock turbo it can pass 5 tons of
air a hour while running at 10 psi.
OoooooKkkkkkk, now I put a big ol super
turbo ( one of them there 15G thingies
) on and I run that big bad boy up to
lets say 10 psi. I still think (
because a stump is smarter than me)
that only 5 tons of air per hour will pass
through that 2 in IC pipe. Please
point me to the facts that show a bigger
turbo is gonna move more air through
that 2 in. pipe and I will be send in my
application to DENSA
asap.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 12:31:25
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Team3S: Fuel Pump upgrade (Walbro)
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Maybe it's of interest for all who want to step up to a
better fuel pump on a
decent price. I don't know much about the Walbro pumps
but the price is very
good ! The flow is given up to 255 ltr/hr compared to
our 180 ltr/hr stock pumpy
but you better check back with the
guy.
Remember the GP ends at March 26.
I do have a DENSO pump ready for installation and I was
told it is a 90 gal/h
unit (price was around $400). This would result in 341
ltr/hr and is really
high. Unfortunately, nobody was able to tell me on what
fuel pressure this is
measured and I beleive it is at 0 psi ! Therefore the
figure will be lower at
43psi for sure.
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LOL!
I dunno for sure, but perhaps the key would be
whether the stock turbo can flow more
air than the pipe will alow.
Perhaps the pipes can flow more than 5 tons an hour and
then all you need to
do is gives da pipes more air with bigger turbos. Again, I'm not
sure,
but I would think at some point the pipes themselves would need to be bigger
to
flow enough air as to not be a big restriction. Maybe stock pipes
would flow enough to
put on 356g turbos, but if ya wanna go bigger you need
bigger pipes to see the
advantage. I would think that the first
recommended mods would be to upgrade
restrictions to allow benifit to be seen
when upgrading other things.
Jason
> Ok, at the risk of showing my real I.Q. level I am
still perplexed about turbo
> flow rates. In terms that I can
comprehend --- I gotta 2 in. IC pipe. Say
> with a stock turbo it
can pass 5 tons of air a hour while running at 10 psi.
> OoooooKkkkkkk,
now I put a big ol super turbo ( one of them there 15G thingies
> ) on and
I run that big bad boy up to lets say 10 psi. I still think (
>
because a stump is smarter than me) that only 5 tons of air per hour will
pass
> through that 2 in IC pipe. Please point me to the facts that show a
bigger
> turbo is gonna move more air through that 2 in. pipe and I will
be send in my
> application to DENSA asap.
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 14:05:57
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Doesn't pipe size determine velocity vs volume of flow?
A bigger pipe
will flow more volume but at a slower velocity. While a smaller
pipe
would increase velocity while reducing volume.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 14:37:00
1999
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From: "Gross,
Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To:
"'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'" <stealth@starnet.net>,
"'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'" <stealth@dragnet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power Antenna Problems
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 14:36:36
-0800
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Guys,
I've got a problem: the short of
it is that 2 of the joints of my
power antenna seem to be really
sticky.
The long of it:)
The motor is fine, as is the relay (as best as I can
tell). This all
started when I noticed that under normal operation, the
antenna didn't go
all the way up (1 joint didn't telescope). Being the
perfectionist I am
when it comes to my car (I know, I know if it ain't
broke...but) I tried
"helping" to motor extend the antenna by
gently pulling on the antenna as
the motor was extending it(before the relay
cut it off), and got the antenna
to extend fully. It was kinda dirty,
so I cleaned it with alcohol, hoping
that that would get some of the crap off
of it. It did. Really black paper
towels... Then the
antenna would go down, but not all the way. I could
again
"help" the motor by lightly pushing on the antenna as it went
down. I
grabbed some silicone spray lubricant and wiped that all up and
down the
extended antenna. Stupid thing still won't go all the way up
or down on its
own. Worked on it for 30 minutes trying everything I
know...no cigar. I've
got it now so that when all the way retracted the
motor will extend it up
except for 2 joints, and can successfully retract it
from said position. I
think this doesn't hurt my radio reception that
much, but it really annoys
me. Any other suggestions for how to
fix this?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 15:02:46
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From: "Gross,
Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To:
"'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'" <stealth@dragnet.com>,
"'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:02:28
-0800
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I feel like I'm getting the shaft lately...
(no pun
intended to those of you having tranny problems ;)
Ok, so I'm washing my car Sunday, and hitting the front
bumper with the
hose, or at least the water from it:) No
pressure-washer, just normal
trigger nozzle on the hose. There's a
little black spot on the bottom "lip"
of the radiator opening, and
I, thinking it's a spec of dirt, spray it with
the hose. To my dismay,
it gets bigger! Mentally thinking "WTF?!?," I
look
closer...the paint was PEELING/FLAKING OFF! Thus I stopped
spraying it with
the hose (duh). Anyway, I've always noticed (since I
got the car last
March) little grayish spider-web lines in the paint on the
lower part of the
front bumper. Just assumed something not to worry
about (annoying, but not
worth repainting). But now...this has me just
a little tee'd off! My car
has been in service since July, 1995, so the
paint doesn't even have 4
years' wear on it! What is causing
this? How can I stop it from
progressing and how do I repair the
damage? Please tell me that I don't
have to get the whole d@#$ bumper
repainted/blended for mucho dolares! The
hole is about the size of a
quarter currently, and if it weren't threatening
to get bigger, I'd probably
be content to just use touch-up(in the interest
of conserving $) paint since
it's not an area of the car most people look at
anyway. It just looks
obvious on a white car to have a 1" black spot on the
bumper.
Argh!
About my car:
July 95-March 98 owned by
someone in Ohio. Drove it 29,600mi
March 98- present owned by me and meticulously
taken care of,
good condition when I got it, except needed a
new
clutch
complete clean/wax/restore/steam clean
engine/etc
June, 1998
regular maintenance/cleaning since
then
--Erik
<slightly frustrated>
P.S. Coming soon: results of using Arty's
engine cleaning method to get
rid of infamous ticking noise!
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters
mod
------
----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know
me.
And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of
the
Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a voice from
a whirlwind that drowns out all questions. He will
likely
never get a personal glimpse of God in this life. He
will
only see me." --Philip
Yancey Disappointment With
God
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 15:22:04
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From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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Time to throw in my 2 psi...
Engine power is directly related to the density of the
air/fuel charge
in the cylinder. In a normally aspirated engine the air
charge is
sucked in. In a turbocharged or supercharged engine it is
pushed in.
Increasing the air/fuel density will provide more power (assuming
the
air/fuel ratio is already at optimum). The air/fuel charge density
can
be increased by: 1) reducing engine flow restrictions; 2)
increasing
boost pressure; 3) reducing temperature of charge; and
probably others
I forgot about.
Our engine will consume 3.0 liters of air/fuel for
every cycle. The
density of this air/fuel charge at 0 psi is a lot less
than at 15 psi or
21 psi. If someone does the math, one could calculate
the amount of air
in cfm required at lets say 7000 RPM at 0 psi, 15 psi, 21
psi, or any
desired boost level.
The main problem with small turbos is that they can't
provide enough air
flow at maximum (7000) RPM at higher than stock
boost. Also the
temperature of the air charge is higher than would be
in a larger
turbo. The main reason for going to larger turbos is to
provide the
required air (cfm) at your chosen maximum RPM at your chosen
maximum
boost. This will give you maximum power over the entire RPM
range.
On our cars, stock 9B turbos will hold about 10 psi at
redline. 13G's
will hold around 15?? psi at redline, and 15G's will
hold 21?? psi at
redline. (Perhaps someone can supply real numbers for
the 13G and 15G
turbos.)
Bottom line: If you want to maintain a higher
boost at redline, you
need larger turbos. By reducing restrictions and
lowering air/fuel
charge temperature, you will get a higher charge density
for a given
boost level.
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 15:36:31
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, March 16, 1999 3:02 PM
To: 'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'; 'Starnet 3Si
Mailing List'
Subject: Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
<snip>
What is causing this? How can I stop it from
progressing and how do I
repair the damage?
--Erik
<slightly
frustrated>
===========================
Erik...
The "spider" effect you describe is usually
caused by impact. I have some on
my lower left bumper area where it connected
with the ground as I slid off a
highway two winters ago. Since the bumper
skin is plastic, it tends to
"fracture", resulting in cracks in the
paint. With some cars, there's also a
paint adhesion problem if the plastic
parts haven't been cured properly, but
I haven't heard of that with
Mitsubishi's. I haven't had mine painted yet,
as it really isn't noticeable
unless you've got your nose on the ground six
inches in front of the car
(normally a poor position to be in). Fortunately,
my paint hasn't peeled yet.
My plans are for a show quality paint job in
Y2K, if it started to peel
today, I'd go for the touch up paint.
Good luck!!!
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 17:00:22
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: more turbo theory 101
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:00:23
-0700
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> -----Original Message-----
<snip>
> Our engine will consume 3.0 liters of air/fuel for
every cycle. The
> density of this air/fuel charge at 0 psi is a lot
less than at 15 psi or
> 21 psi. If someone does the math, one could
calculate the amount of air
> in cfm required at lets say 7000 RPM at 0
psi, 15 psi, 21 psi, or any
> desired boost level.
Just a clarification point here. Because it is a
four stroke, the engine
consumes half its displacement every
revolution. You stated every cycle by
which presumably you mean RPM x
2. This is just for anyone who may be
setting down to do the math so
they remember to divide RPM by 2 to get
intake strokes. So, air
consumption is (RPM / 2) x displacement x + - / a
whole bunch of other terms
that account air density, vapor pressure, fuel
charge, turbo efficiency, i/c
efficiency etc. etc. As you say, it is
complicated.
<snip>
> --
> Two wrongs don't make a right, but
three lefts do!
> Ken Middaugh
Here's a left to add to the pile.
Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 17:15:42
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: : Autopower rollbar....
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 19:15:21
-0600
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> That's about all the mutilation to the
interior.. other than that..
>the passenger seat will not recline at all
cuz of the diagnal bar..
>the driver seat is adjustable, but can't fully
recline either... the
>rear seats are virtually useless.. but u can sit an
adult sideways..
>hope this will help in ur decision.
>
George-
Thanks; this is the info I
needed.
Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 17:48:57
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Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 19:47:27
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From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need
Cat-back and K&N filter and New Rims & Tires
To: Stealth-3000gt
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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This is a multi-part message in MIME
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1992 Dodge Stealth Rt Needs Your Imput!
Cat Back Systems- Recomendations Please!
K&N or Another Brand- Recomendations
Please!
Home Depot Ram Air or Not- Recomendations
Please!
Wheels ( Really Want Chrome But) And Tires-
Recomendations Please!
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<BODY
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1992
Dodge Stealth Rt Needs
Your=20
Imput!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Cat Back Systems-
Recomendations=20
Please!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>K</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000
=
size=3D2>&N or=20
Another Brand- Recomendations
Please!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Home Depot Ram Air or Not- Recomendations
=
Please!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Wheels ( Really Want Chrome But) And Tires-
=
Recomendations=20
Please!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 18:36:55
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From:
"CEnder (Chris Chiasson)" <cender@email.msn.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Arty
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 1999 20:32:52 -0600
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Please contact me either today or tommorow about the
17" wheels for
1991-1993 3/S cars.
If anyone knows Arty's full name, please tell me... it
would make looking up
his number much easier. I really need to get rims
soon... I messed up my
current right side ones by hitting a pot
hole.
arty's full name is on the 3000GT.com site under
fastest
---"CEnder (Chris Chiasson)" <cender@email.msn.com>
wrote:
>
> Please contact me either today or tommorow about the
17" wheels for
> 1991-1993 3/S cars.
>
> If anyone knows
Arty's full name, please tell me... it would make
looking up
> his
number much easier. I really need to get rims soon... I messed
up my
>
current right side ones by hitting a pot hole.
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
arty's full name is on the 3000GT.com site under
fastest
---"CEnder (Chris Chiasson)" <cender@email.msn.com>
wrote:
>
> Please contact me either today or tommorow about the
17" wheels for
> 1991-1993 3/S cars.
>
> If anyone knows
Arty's full name, please tell me... it would make
looking up
> his
number much easier. I really need to get rims soon... I messed
up my
>
current right side ones by hitting a pot hole.
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 16 19:43:35
1999
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Date:
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From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
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It sounds like the front mask was painted with standard
lacquer and
not urethane with the elastomer to let it stretch on the
flexible
portion of the nose. Heating, cooling and flex is cracking the
paint,
which is brittle because it was intended for a rigid surface.
You
can't add elastomer after the fact, so I guess I bring bad news.
Hope
I'm wrong.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 06:37:03
1999
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From:
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To:
"Stealth - Starnet" <stealth@starnet.net>,
"Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AWD dynamometer
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 07:37:04
-0700
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Seems that Extreme Motorsports in Jessup, MD will be
installing an AWD dyno
in the next couple of weeks. Good news for all
of you people in that area.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 07:59:34
1999
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999
10:59:11 -0500
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Interesting.
Now I have a new theory: My 275's are mounted on
9" wheels, not 8.5" wheels
like stock. So my tread width will be
slightly wider. (0.5" = 13 mm or so,
wider wheels pull the tires out a
bit). I would swear that my tires would
rub the spring perch with 46mm offset
on my wheels. And I din't think that
0.5" wheel width would make much of
a difference, but then again we're
talking in terms of individual millimeters
of clearance here.
On the other hand, it could be a difference between the
'91-93 and '94+
cars. If the rotors are different thicknesses (quite
possible, since the
brakes were revised), or the half-shafts are different
lengths (which I
believe is the case anyways, because of the switch to the
6-spd), the
mounting surfaces for the wheels could be in a slightly different
position
on the two different cars. Which would have the effect of making a
tiny
difference in the offset of the tire relative to the spring
perch.
Sorry for taking waayyy to long to read through my list
email. :-)
-Ed
Sorry I'm violating the one topic per post rule, but
they are related
enough.
Summary: Firehawk 275/40/17 will not rub struts
on stock 17x8.5 46mm
offset rims, even with 1" lowering with Eibach
springs. Slight rubbing
will occur on the inner splash guard at full
wheel lock though.
The Lowdown: Last month I needed to replace the
tires on my '91 VR4
with stock 46mm offset rims. I solicited
information from all lists
about max tire sizes on stock rims. A couple
of posts/replies stood
out. Shawn Dewey replied that he was running
Firestone Firehawk SZ50
275/40/17 on stock rims on his '93 VR4, and Bob
Fontana posted that he
has Goodyear Eagle GSC in the same size on his stock
'93 VR4 rims.
Based on their success, I got Firehawk 275/40/17 installed at
a local
dealer (prices almost as good as Tire Rack's). I had them
install one
tire on the front right first and they drove around in fast
circles in
their parking lot. When they took the tire off, we noticed
the slight
rubbing on the inner splash guard that Bob mentioned, as well as
very
slight rubbing on the strut's spring perch. I had them mount all
4. I
heard no rubbing and I don't drive in tight circles at full wheel
lock (
I normally go to lock and back off a little, still get around
tight
corners).
Two weeks ago, I replaced my struts since I suspected
that they were the
cause of some suspension clunking I was getting over sharp
bumps. They
had 89,000 miles on them! Way overdue! While I
was there, I decided to
replace the springs with Eibach's Pro-Kit. When
I removed the old
struts, I didn't notice any more rubbing on the spring
perches, and no
visible wear on the tires either. With the new springs
and the car
lowered an inch, the camber is a little too negative on all
corners. I
figured I'd leave the extra negative camber for my visit to
the track,
and get an alignment after.
Last Saturday I went to Holtville for an uncompetetive
Track Time
event. Man was that a blast! (I used up my fairly new
Stillen Metal
Matrix brake pads in half a day). I wanted to check the
tire clearance
after the most aggressive driving so I pulled off the front
tires.
There was absolutely no rubbing on the new struts! Also, when I
get it
aligned to spec, removing the excess negative camber will pull the
tire
further away from the strut.
Conclusion: Perhaps the new strut is different
with the perch in a
slightly different location, or perhaps the old perch
bent closer to the
tire after so many miles. Also, a small spring drop
should be an
advantage since removing the added camber will move the top of
the tire
away from the strut (I'll report after I have an alignment
performed).
Ed Fein had solicited info from folks running 275's on
stock rims, so
add me to the list!
1. Year, make and model of car '91
VR4
2. Brand and model of tire Firestone Firehawk SZ50, 275/40/17
3.
Rubbing, if any, and severity No rubbing on outer
fenderwell,
no
rubbing on new struts. Slight rubbing on inner splashguard
4.
Misc. info Eibach Pro-Kit 1" lowering springs
Good luck,
Ken
--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 08:44:16
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999
10:43:14 -0600
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Yes, the swept area of the rotor is thicker and yes the
rotor is larger.
This will affect the wheel width 0.000 inches. (read will
not affect)
The Front axles are the exact same length and size on
the 5/6 speed.
The brakes will not affect the width needed on the
wheel, only the offset.
On putting large tires on a car, remember that the
tire tends to roll on a
wheel if the wheel is too narrow. This may
cause clearance problems with
the strut during a hard corner and could cause
the wheel to lock
momentarily.
On the other hand, it could be a difference between
the '91-93 and '94+
cars. If the rotors are different thicknesses (quite
possible, since the
brakes were revised), or the half-shafts are different
lengths (which I
believe is the case anyways, because of the switch to the
6-spd), the
mounting surfaces for the wheels could be in a slightly different
position
on the two different cars. Which would have the effect of making a
tiny
difference in the offset of the tire relative to the spring
perch.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 09:19:39
1999
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Will the folks that just put these in recently contact
me. I wish to compare
notes
and scribbles ( on the instruction sheets)
. I also got the camber plates :)
Thanks in advance. Dave 93
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
<<Seems that Extreme Motorsports in Jessup, MD
will be installing an AWD dyno
in the next couple of weeks. Good news for all of
you people in that area.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
>>
In a message dated 3/17/99 9:41:08 AM, you
wrote:
<<Seems that Extreme Motorsports in Jessup, MD
will be installing an AWD dyno
in the next couple of weeks. Good news for all of
you people in that area.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
>>
Actually Jeffrey, you are unfortunately incorrect.
Extreme will be installing
a 2WD Dyno in about 3 weeks. They will be able to
dyno AWD's but with a lot of
mods to the cars. For the DSM's they will have
to have a welded viscus
cupling, and will have to pull their transfer cases
off. (No real big deal for
the full out race AWD's with the welded front
diffs) And for the stealths and
3000's which are AWD, you will have to
install a FWD tranny and then remove
the transfer cases... IT's going to be a
pain in the ass to do all of this,
but for those people with AWD who are
serious about dynoing their cars.
Extreme will be sure to hook them
up!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 12:02:56
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From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:02:47
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Looking for some feedback...
1st gen VR4 getting
long in the tooth.
I experiencing a growing amount of movement in the shift
lever when
in gear under load and off load. There seemed to always be a
few mm
movement since new when on and off the gas but within the last few
weeks
the travel has grown significantly.
Along with this I can feel a
sight hesitation in the driveline to the
rear wheels and a dull thud noise
as it loads.
Best case scenario I am hoping this will go away with a clutch
replacement needed soon. Worst case POS tranny or transfer
probs.
Any ideas much appreciated...
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 12:17:38
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Message-ID: <36F00E3A.88E79B7@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:19:06 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer
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This is the official email from Extreme and not only a
statement from Jeffrey !
Regards,
Roger
--------------
Greetings!
Extreme Motorsports' web pages have been updated as of
March 16,
1999. Here's what's new this time around:
A quick update with some BIG news at
Extreme. We've finally gotten
approval from the landlord, so
we'll be installing a brand spankin' new
1200 HP, 200 MPH Dynojet
dynamometer in the shop in a few weeks. The dyno
will let us test FWD
and AWD cars right on site and dial-in our monster
motors before
hitting the track.
With all of the things we have in store for
1999, we're just hoping the
1200 HP limit will be enough!
Extreme's web pages are located at:
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 12:35:53
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999
14:34:56 -0600
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Replace your motor mounts; doing this will cure your
problems.
Looking for some feedback...
1st gen VR4 getting
long in the tooth.
I experiencing a growing amount of movement in the shift
lever when
in gear under load and off load. There seemed to always be a
few mm
movement since new when on and off the gas but within the last few
weeks
the travel has grown significantly.
Along with this I can feel a
sight hesitation in the driveline to the
rear wheels and a dull thud noise as
it loads.
Best case scenario I am hoping this will go away with a
clutch
replacement needed soon. Worst case POS tranny or transfer
probs.
Any ideas much appreciated...
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 12:43:14
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<<This is the official email from Extreme and not
only a statement from
Jeffrey !
Regards,
Roger
>>
Look, I know for a fact they are only getting a 2WD
Dyno. They sent an e-mail
out, on there website saying they will be ABLE to
dyno AWD cars. NOT that they
are getting an AWD dyno. If you don't believe me
call them for yourself.
301-776-2903. I am good friends with extreme and no
more about it then
Jeffrey.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 12:58:36
1999
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From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:58:31
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Never would have guessed this in a million years..are
you serious?
You sound so sure this will work.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 13:10:24
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Subject:
Team3S: Fw: new vendor
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Received this on the Dragnet list. Looks like
another source for stock
parts beside Tallahassee Mitsu.
>
>
> My name is Bill Hall with
Norco Mitsubishi in Norco California, and I just
>want to say Hi and let
you know if you need any factory mitsubishi parts I
>give 20% off and ship
anywhere in the U.S. I know you already have other
>dealers you buy
from but it doesn't hurt to have more people on your side.
>So
>if I
can do anything for you let me know.
>
>e-mail
address. mitsparts@pe.net
>
> or check out
our web site @ www.norcomits.com
>
>Thanks
Bill.
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 13:10:39
1999
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From: "Gross,
Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To:
"'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'" <stealth@starnet.net>,
"'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'" <stealth@dragnet.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve
cov
er
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:10:26 -0800
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Ok, so for those wanting the executive summary:
it's not gone.
The symptoms:
* Ticking sound coming from under the
valve cover(s - hard to hear
back bank).
* Quiet (almost not
noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
is warm.
* Doesn't go
away when revving the engine slightly.
* Sound like
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav
BTW thanks to
Rob for putting that on the web!
Things I've tried:
* 10W30 dino oil
* 0W30 Mobil
1 Synthetic
* 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
(currently)
* Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's bad)
* OEM filters
*
K&N Oil Filter (currently)
* Marvel Mystery oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1
5W30Syn)
* Arty's cleaning method (posted on
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
*
Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
replace - NA
car)
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt
with
filter replace - NA car)
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and
back down several times.
* Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify
that oil is
getting to the cams and valves. Lots o' oil being slung
around. Looks ok
upon visual inspection.
* Beating forehead
repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
the Mitsu diamond onto my
forehead. Perhaps will try this when engine is
hot :)
Things I haven't tried (yet):
* Filling the oil only
to the bottom mark on the dipstick. (How much
should I drain out if it's
currently sitting at the top mark on the
dipsitck???
* Anything others
might suggest
* Talking to the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I
do
this).
Possible Causes I Know of:
* Too much oil in oil pan
(to be explored asap)
* Bad lash adjuster(s)
* Bad bearing somewhere
(where?)
* Bad valve(s)
* Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve
cover ;)
So, anyone have any other suggestions? Possible
causes of the problem?
Ways to solve the problem? Is it time to go to
the dealer? Help?
TIA
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters
mod
------
----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know
me.
And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of
the
Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a voice from
a whirlwind that drowns out all questions. He will
likely
never get a personal glimpse of God in this life. He
will
only see me." --Philip
Yancey Disappointment With
God
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 13:10:50
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999
12:32:41 -0800
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I had exactly the same problem with my 94 VR4 at 58,000
miles. It turned
out to be a collapsing engine mount (driver's
side). Mitsu put in a new
one (under warrenty) and the shifter
movement, vibration and clunking went
away. The mechanic said that
this is a fairly common problem.
Steve Clarke
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 13:24:33
1999
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Hey Michael;
Yep he's certain... and by now you've probably had a
kazillion other posts to confirm
this advise. The movement you're
getting is from engine torque which is not battened
down like it should be
due to the broken/split mount. It's a cheap fix rather than the
expensive one
you feared.
Best
Darc
Michael Reiss wrote:
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 13:28:59
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve
cov
er
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Erik;
Have you tried an engine flush product like GUNK yet??
It did it for me...the ticking
was gone! Mikael in Sweden used another
similar German product, and it did the trick
for him. Give it a try if you
have not yet and then use Mobil 1, which you apparently
are. If this fails,
you need adjustment or replacement.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 13:37:11
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From:
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Subject:
Team3S:
=?us-ascii?Q?RE=3A_Team3S=3A_Results=3A__getting_rid_of_the_in?=
=?us-ascii?Q?famous_ticking_under_the_valve_cov=09er?=
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You have either got air in your lifters or (more
probably) bad lifters.
Steve Clarke
-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 17, 1999 1:10 PM
To: 'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S
Mailing List'
Subject: Team3S: Results: getting rid of the infamous
ticking under the valve cov er
Ok, so for those wanting the executive summary:
it's not gone.
The symptoms:
* Ticking sound coming from under the
valve cover(s - hard to hear
back bank).
* Quiet (almost not
noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
is warm.
* Doesn't go
away when revving the engine slightly.
* Sound like
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav
BTW thanks to
Rob for putting that on the web!
Things I've tried:
* 10W30 dino oil
* 0W30 Mobil
1 Synthetic
* 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
(currently)
* Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's bad)
* OEM filters
*
K&N Oil Filter (currently)
* Marvel Mystery oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1
5W30Syn)
* Arty's cleaning method (posted on
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
*
Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
replace - NA
car)
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt
with
filter replace - NA car)
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and
back down several times.
* Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify
that oil is
getting to the cams and valves. Lots o' oil being slung
around. Looks ok
upon visual inspection.
* Beating forehead
repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
the Mitsu diamond onto my
forehead. Perhaps will try this when engine is
hot :)
Things I haven't tried (yet):
* Filling the oil only
to the bottom mark on the dipstick. (How much
should I drain out if it's
currently sitting at the top mark on the
dipsitck???
* Anything others
might suggest
* Talking to the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I
do
this).
Possible Causes I Know of:
* Too much oil in oil pan
(to be explored asap)
* Bad lash adjuster(s)
* Bad bearing somewhere
(where?)
* Bad valve(s)
* Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve
cover ;)
So, anyone have any other suggestions? Possible
causes of the problem?
Ways to solve the problem? Is it time to go to
the dealer? Help?
TIA
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters
mod
------
----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know
me.
And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of
the
Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a voice from
a whirlwind that drowns out all questions. He will
likely
never get a personal glimpse of God in this life. He
will
only see me." --Philip
Yancey Disappointment With
God
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 13:47:25
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Team3S: Re: Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve
cover
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> So, anyone have any other suggestions?
How about Gunk Engine Flush followed by Mobil 1 20/50
wieght (or is it
15/50?)
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 14:19:08
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cover
Date:
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> Things I've tried:
> * 10W30 dino
oil
> * 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> * 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> *
10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)
Ouch, that .wav file sounds even worse than my lifters
sounded! The only
thing that made it go away in my '94 VR4 was to
switch to Mobil-1 20W50
synthetic. Higher viscosities seemed to help
keep the oil in the lifters.
If the lifters have junk in them (dirt, metal
particles, etc.) then the grit
can hold open the little valve in there and
the cam will pump the oil out of
the lifter when it gets compressed.
The higher viscosity oil probably
doesn't get forced out as easily, or is
thick enough to wash the grit
through the lifter. I'm just speculating,
but that's what took care of it
on my car.
-Matt
Previous '94 3000GT-VR4
'93 Eclipse
GSX
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 14:20:39
1999
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IF the bottom of the fender is peeling I think it's due
to the rubbing against
the ground. If you scrap the bottom it's gonna shift
the grill and therefore
crack the paint,
Larry A.
94 3000gt Sl
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 14:29:39
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RE:_Team3S:_Results:__getting_rid_of_the_infamous_ticking_under_t...
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When I start my car on a real cold day my lifters are
LOUD for 2 second then
the sound disappears. I really hate the
sound. It has happened 3 times since
I've owned the car. Ant
suggestions?
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt SL
When I start my car on a real cold day my lifters are
LOUD for 2 second then
the sound disappears. I really hate the
sound. It has happened 3 times
since
I've owned the car. Ant
suggestions?
thanks, Larry A
94 3000gt
SL
=================================
Larry...
Use a lighter weight oil. Cold increases the viscosity
of your oil. The
sound you describe may not be the lifters, but the valves
and valve guides.
Those 2 to 3 seconds without oil in the top end are VERY
hard on the engine.
Pre-oilers are the ultimate in preventative maintenance,
but I haven't heard
of anyone on the list that's gone that far.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Anybody ever have this happen? My auto tranny is locked
in 3rd gear. No
matter what gear I put it in to (low,2nd, or drive) it is in
3rd and
won't shift. In reverse, it clunks into first and backs up fine ,
and
then clunks back into drive. I will never buy an auto tranny again!!
How
feasable is an auto to 5-speed conversion? is the tranny controlled
by
the ECU?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 16:11:41
1999
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I use 5w30 castrol on my car and change it every 2,000
miles. Is it worth me
to go syntethic?
thanks,
Larry A.
94 3000gt SL
<<Use a lighter weight oil. Cold increases the
viscosity of your oil. The
sound you describe may not be the lifters, but the
valves and valve guides.
Those 2 to 3 seconds without oil in the top end are
VERY hard on the engine.
Pre-oilers are the ultimate in preventative
maintenance, but I haven't heard
of anyone on the list that's gone that
far.>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 16:18:16
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I need some help on deciding if I should go with a
custom exhaust or go borla.
I've been going back and forth with the idea for
a month now but I'm still
stumped,
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt SL
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 16:44:54
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Re: Team3S: RE: cold weather lifter/valve noise
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You wrote;
> I use 5w30 castrol on my car and change it every
2,000 miles. Is it worth me
> to go syntethic?
>
Not really, unless you want to have the best for peace
of mind. You change with
admirable frequency so it's not really necessary.
Synthetic oil would be advantageous if
you were running turbos, as fossil
lubriacants do not take the high heat as well (cook
and break down)
which tubo equipped cars seem to generate.. In your case I cann't see
a
great advantage to changing. However, if cold is a real problem there, some
sort of
snake oil additive that keeps the metal coated with a thin lubricant
might be of
advantageous during prolonged cold snaps. I cann't advise any and
hate to suggest it,
but cold (as in frigid) grinding starts is not good. Once
the weather changes and you do
your next change, use a flush to get it
out.
Best
Darc
I need some help on deciding if I should go with a
custom exhaust or go
borla.
I've been going back and forth with the idea
for a month now but I'm still
stumped,
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt
SL
===============================
Larry...
The choice is really yours. Here's some pros &
cons...
Borla:
Pros...already fabricated, ready to bolt on. Trusted
name. High quality
materials. Good mandrel bends (no kinks).
Cons...cost.
Volume (Borla is loud).
Custom:
Pros...can be much less expensive, particularly if you
don't use stainless
steel. You can have the sound you want, by choosing the
mufflers you want.
Get the look you want, choose your own tips.
Cons...may
not fit as well, potential for rattles and vibration.
I bought a GReddy catback, for the pre-fabricated
reason. Later I added the
ATR downpipe & test pipe (for off road use).
Ended up with over $1200 in the
exhaust system. If I had it do over again, I
would have a custom unit made
for a fraction of the cost.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 17:14:51
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>Engine power is directly related to the density of
the air/fuel >charge
in the cylinder. In a normally aspirated
engine the air >charge
issucked in. In a turbocharged or
supercharged engine it is >pushed in.
Sorry, another MINOR correction again....in all
engines, the intake
charge is "pushed in." Normally asperated
engine don't "suck in" the
air, the intake charge is pushed in by
atmospheric pressure. when the
piston drops on the intake stroke, volume
increases in the cylinder, and
drops the pressure, leaving a pressure
differential...the 14.7psia
(absolute pressure, not guage pressure)
atmospheric pressure "pushes"
the charge into the roughly 6psia
cylinder.
another note: a very basic way of thinking about
how the larger turbo's
move more air at the same guage pressure. if
you are say shoveling
snow, and you use a 2" X 2" shovel you
displace say .5 square feet of
snow.....if you use a 4" X 4"
shovel, you going to pick up far more snow
with each swing of the
shove.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 17:15:45
1999
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From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Engine breathing / turbo101
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:15:39
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>Engine power is directly related to the density of
the air/fuel >charge
in the cylinder. In a normally aspirated
engine the air >charge
issucked in. In a turbocharged or
supercharged engine it is >pushed in.
Sorry, another MINOR correction again....in all
engines, the intake
charge is "pushed in." Normally asperated
engine don't "suck in" the
air, the intake charge is pushed in by
atmospheric pressure. when the
piston drops on the intake stroke, volume
increases in the cylinder, and
drops the pressure, leaving a pressure
differential...the 14.7psia
(absolute pressure, not guage pressure)
atmospheric pressure "pushes"
the charge into the roughly 6psia
cylinder.
another note: a very basic way of thinking about
how the larger turbo's
move more air at the same guage pressure. if
you are say shoveling
snow, and you use a 2" X 2" shovel you
displace say .5 square feet of
snow.....if you use a 4" X 4"
shovel, you going to pick up far more snow
with each swing of the
shove.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 17:44:09
1999
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Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer
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Hey Roger, I hope its correct. The reason I'm skeptical
is that I've spoken
with Dynojet about 6 months ago. At that time they did
not make an AWD Dyno.
I really hope this is 4 real. Us guys here in the
Northeast need one a bit
closer then CA.
I'm dying to see what the limits
are on 15G modified set up running race gas?
I'll bet we are in for a nice
surprise.
Arty
<< Subj: Re: Team3S: AWD
dynamometer
Date: 3/17/99 3:18:32 PM Eastern Standard
Time
From: robby@swissonline.ch (Roger
Gerl)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
This
is the official email from Extreme and not only a statement from
Jeffrey
!
Regards,
Roger
--------------
Greetings!
Extreme
Motorsports' web pages have been updated as of March 16,
1999.
Here's what's new this time around:
A quick update
with some BIG news at Extreme. We've finally gotten
approval from the landlord, so we'll be installing a brand spankin'
new
1200 HP, 200 MPH Dynojet dynamometer in the shop in a few
weeks. The dyno
will let us test FWD and AWD cars right on site
and dial-in our monster
motors before hitting the
track.
With all of the things we have in store for
1999, we're just hoping the
1200 HP limit will be
enough!
Extreme's web pages are located
at:
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 18:28:57
1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 18:30:52 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hello all,
I have just recently acqired a wrecked 1992
3000GT SL (67K miles).
The car is not worth rebuilding but there are plenty
of useful parts
left on it. I have already installed the engine in my SL, so
I have a
67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from the
blown
engine in my SL), loaded passenger door(great red paint
with
mirror),all the passenger side ground effects, rear bumper and
cover,
the 3 tail lights, passenger side quarter panel and quarter glass,
non
VR-4 spoiler, a couple good 16" factory rims, and quite a few
other
minor items. If anyone is interested contact me directly, I have
no
use for the items and will let them go at a very low price.
Thanks, Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 19:01:12
1999
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Date:
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In a message dated 3/17/99 8:44:37 PM, you
wrote:
<<Hey Roger, I hope its correct. The reason I'm
skeptical is that I've spoken
with Dynojet about 6 months ago. At that time
they did not make an AWD Dyno.
I really hope this is 4 real. Us guys here in
the Northeast need one a bit
closer then CA.
I'm dying to see what the
limits are on 15G modified set up running race gas?
I'll bet we are in for a
nice surprise.
Arty
>>
Hellllllllllloooooo it's only a 2 wheel dyno. All you
have to do is call and
ask them.
So don't get your hopes up
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 19:03:18
1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body
part
s
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:00:58 -0500
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Do you know if the glovebox is the same as in a
94? If so how much do you
want for it?
Hello all,
I have just recently acqired a
wrecked 1992 3000GT SL (67K
miles).
The car is not worth rebuilding
but there are plenty of
useful parts
left on it. I have already
installed the engine in my SL, so
I have a
67K 5 speed tranny for
sale, two heads (non turbo, from the
blown
engine in my SL), loaded
passenger door(great red paint with
mirror),all the passenger side
ground effects, rear bumper
and cover,
the 3 tail lights, passenger
side quarter panel and quarter
glass, non
VR-4 spoiler, a couple
good 16" factory rims, and quite a
few other
minor items. If
anyone is interested contact me directly, I
have no
use for the
items and will let them go at a very low price.
Thanks,
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Hey,
Ever
since I have seen an article in Turbo Magazine titled, "Can
High
Compression and High Boost Coincide?". Or something to that
effect. I
have had a question in my mind. I figured you would all
think I was stupid
but here go's. I figured that if you up the factory
compression on a 6G72 TT
engine (8.5:1), to 10:1 using various parts
from the NA engine, heads, cams
and such, it would increase power
output. But also there would be a
pre-ignition problem perhaps??????
And is there enough valve clearence?????
If not has anyone tried to
increase compression on a TT engine by other
means?? Did it work?? I
think you may have to advance the ignition timing
somehow for this to
work. Anyone that would like to respond or just to laugh
is welcome to.
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 19:16:34
1999
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Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:18:45 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body part s
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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It should be the same. all I have is the box
itself no handles or
latches.
Dustin
---Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
wrote:
>
> Do you know if the glovebox is the same as in a 94?
If so how much
do you
> want for it?
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: dustin poos [mailto:vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:31 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and
> drivetrain, and body
parts
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have just recently acqired a wrecked 1992
3000GT SL (67K
> miles).
> The car is not worth
rebuilding but there are plenty of
> useful parts
> left
on it. I have already installed the engine in my SL, so
> I have
a
> 67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from
the
> blown
> engine in my SL), loaded passenger
door(great red paint with
> mirror),all the passenger side
ground effects, rear bumper
> and cover,
> the 3 tail
lights, passenger side quarter panel and quarter
> glass,
non
> VR-4 spoiler, a couple good 16" factory rims, and
quite a
> few other
> minor items. If anyone is
interested contact me directly, I
> have no
> use for
the items and will let them go at a very low price.
>
> Thanks, Dustin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> DO
YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 19:32:17
1999
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From: "Michele
Putman" <m.putman@worldnet.att.net>
To:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: custom exhaust
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:33:40
-0500
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Borla is fine but I read that the interior of the
exhaust goes bad or
begins to rattle before other after-market exhausts, so I
did some
research and found that the HKS Superdragger is a better exhaust and
I
have been extremely happy with the results. HKS is a little
more
expensive but has better longevity.
Just my .02
worth!
Chuck
'93 Stealth (BadAss) Why...'cause it rocks!!!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 21:14:48
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: turbo 101 [ yet again ] long
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:02:40
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this is an attempted engineering analysis of the
turbo
size/flow issue. The numbers I'm using were posted by
others and may
not be correct --- it matters not !
The basic principle is
correct.
The three turbos talked about are ---- [ Approximate
values ]
9B --- 300 CFM at 15 PSI
13G--- 365
CFM at 15 PSI
15G---400 CFM at 15 PSI
The
key at this point is that all three are rated at 15 PSI, our
1 BAR target
boost level.
The rating for the 9B implies that it can provide from
0 to 300
Cubic Feet per Minute and still maintain a boost level of at
least
15 PSI. It further implies that for flow rates beyond 300 CFM
the
pressure will not be 15 PSI. In fact if you exceed the rated
flow
the boost will drop. How much -- I don't know, although I'm
sure
charts exist that cover its full operational range.Similarly
the
13g and 15 G are rated 365 CFM and 400 CFM.
The pressurized air created is routed to the intake
plenum via
the intercoolers [ more later ] and the throttle body. The
throttle
body cares not how this pressure was generated ---- it
doesn't
care if its a 9 B a 15 G or a six pack of gerbils on a
treadmill.
What the throttle body does care about though is CFM --- if
the
engine is demanding more than 300 CFM then the 9B cannot
provide that
amount of air at our 15 PSI target. The result ?? A
drop in boost pressure.
To get in excess of 300 CFM you need
a larger turbo!!
The increase in the temperature of the air in the
induction system
is primarily because the air was compressed. Boyles law sez
there
is a fixed relationship between pressure, volume and
temperature.
e.g. if you increase the temperature in a fixed volume
then the
pressure goes up. if you increase the pressure in a
fixed volume
the temperature goes up [ our case ]. If you increase
volume at a
fixed temperature then pressure goes down etc.etc.
In our case some additional heating is caused by the
turbo housing,
being driven by exhaust it has to retain heat. additionally
some heat
is picked up as a result of the high heat in the engine
compartment.
The major source of heat however, is that caused by
pressurization
of air in the turbo --- again it makes no difference if the
pressure is
created by the 15G or our steroid enhanced gerbils. The job of
the
intercooler is to reduce the intake charge temperature and
thus
maximize the charge density.
Bottom line ---- It appears as though our cars exceed
the 300 CFM
level sence boost drops at high RPM with the stock turbo.
The
9 B is fine as long as you don't need sustained
boost of 15 PSI beyond
the 300 CFM level. If you want 20 PSI for
Autobahn speed runs then
bigger is better. .
The ability to calculate the flow rate based on
displacement, RPM,
volumetric efficiency,charge density etc. etc.
probably requires
a suprecomputer and is best left to the automotive
engineering folk.
Jim
------93
"arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 21:17:04
1999
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What's up Dustin? Do you have the rear right
light panel that acts as an
access cover for the rear lights? If u do
have it how much? And one exhaust
tip=). It fell off my car a
month ago.
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt SL
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 21:19:07
1999
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From: "Jose Soriano"
<amahoser@linkline.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
Date: Wed,
17 Mar 1999 21:37:55 -0800
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Dustin,
I need the passenger side outside door
handle assembly. If you are willing
to seperate it from the door, let me
know!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 21:21:48
1999
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From: CHiLER555@aol.com
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Date:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: custom exhaust
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<< Borla is fine but I read that the interior of
the exhaust goes bad or
begins to rattle before other after-market
exhausts, so I did some
research and found that the HKS Superdragger is
a better exhaust and I
have been extremely happy with the
results. HKS is a little more
expensive but has better
longevity.
Just my .02 worth! >>
Chuck, do u know if the hks is made for NA?
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt SL
I might let me see if the guy that might buy the door
wants it. what
is it worth??
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
I might let me see if the guy that might buy the door
wants it. what
is it worth??
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Are you taking about the grey panel inside the
trunk???
I have it, how does five dollars sound??
Dustin---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> What's up Dustin? Do you have the rear right light
panel that acts
as an
> access cover for the rear lights? If u do
have it how much? And
one exhaust
> tip=). It fell off my
car a month ago.
>
> thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> 3si# 224
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Are you taking about the grey panel inside the
trunk???
I have it, how does five dollars sound??
Dustin---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> What's up Dustin? Do you have the rear right light
panel that acts
as an
> access cover for the rear lights? If u do
have it how much? And
one exhaust
> tip=). It fell off my
car a month ago.
>
> thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> 3si# 224
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 21:32:24
1999
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
5 dollars sound very good. The only other part
I'm interested in is one
Exhaust tip. DO u have any left on the
car?
Thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt SL
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 21:34:54
1999
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Just a short polite notice here folks;
PLEASE respond privately to posted adds for
parts, and do not post
that response back to the list.
Thanks
Darc.... for the admin
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 21:38:57
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Howdy and a question
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:39:07
-0700
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Hi Darc.
How's things?
What was the resolution regarding posting items for
sale from private
parties? I have some things I would like to get rid
of and did post them on
3Si.org but have had no bites.
What's the lowdown?
I should have my engine back by the end of the week --
it is finally done!
Just waiting on injectors and some other bits to
arrive. Might have the car
running by the end of the weekend or shortly
thereafter.
Regards,
Barry
Yes I have all four, If you are ready to get the
stuff I will send it
COD, just give me your address and exactly what you
want.
---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> 5 dollars sound very good. The only other part I'm
interested in is
one
> Exhaust tip. DO u have any left on the
car?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> #224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Yes I have all four, If you are ready to get the
stuff I will send it
COD, just give me your address and exactly what you
want.
---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> 5 dollars sound very good. The only other part I'm
interested in is
one
> Exhaust tip. DO u have any left on the
car?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> #224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Sorry folks, this was mistakeningly sent to the
list.
My apologies.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi
Darc.
>
> How's things?
>
Barry E. King wrote:
> Hi Darc.
>
> How's
things?
Not bad.
>
>
> What was the resolution regarding
posting items for sale from private
> parties? I have some things I
would like to get rid of and did post them on
> 3Si.org but have had no
bites.
Without going back and looking at the darn rules (and I
hate doing that) I believe you
are allowed to post like this every couple of
weeks . I believe the reason is to keep it
from being a buisness site instead
of the tec group it is. Nevertheless it's nice to
see these items
are available from my standpoint, rather than hunting around for them.
Post
them by all means, but ask for private responses and save us the trouble of
dialing
in the goofs who post back to group asking prices, dickering
publically, etc.
>
>
> What's the lowdown?
As above.
>
>
> I should have my engine back by
the end of the week -- it is finally done!
Bonus...dancing on the roof time!!!
> Just waiting on injectors and some other bits to
arrive. Might have the car
> running by the end of the weekend or
shortly thereafter.
I cann't imagine your euphoria! Wish I was there to
watch you take her for her first
run. Good on ya!! Actually, I couldn't be
much happier if it was me.
Best regards
OOOOPS!!
How the mighty have fallen. I used the reply key
thinking of course that I was replying
privately, so I guess I owe a big
appology here as well...mud on the face time!
Darc
Barry E. King wrote:
> Sorry folks, this was mistakeningly sent to the
list.
>
> My apologies.
>
> Barry
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> >
> > Hi Darc.
>
>
> > How's things?
> >
>
> <blah blah
snipped>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 22:13:51
1999
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From: "Jose Soriano"
<amahoser@linkline.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
Date: Wed,
17 Mar 1999 22:32:41 -0800
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dustin, post us your e-mail address or reply to me
privatley so we can
discuss this. When I hit "reply to all" your
email address does not come up
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 22:35:13
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Anyone else getting two of some messages?
My emails from other locations aren't being
duplicated.
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 23:43:23
1999
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> Do you know if the glovebox is the same as in a
94? If so how much do you
> want for it?
Please ONLY respond personally to Dustins email address
and do not post any
questions concerning his car here. His address is vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 17 23:48:49
1999
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> compression on a 6G72 TT engine (8.5:1), to 10:1
using various parts
> from the NA engine, heads, cams and such, it would
increase power
> output.
... and kills your rings, etc. No chance to get a
healthy engine with high
compression and big boost !
>... just to laugh is welcome to.
MODERATOR message :
If you want to receive a laugh please subscribe to the
other lists ! Please
re-read the rules for our list and you'll notice that no
flames nor "not
appropriate" comments are welcome.
I need your collective advice..
I may be selling my 91 VR4 this week, and know of a 95
VR4 that I could pick
up for $18,000.. Here's the catch.. the 95
has 90,000 miles, and no warranty.
However, it's a one owner car and was
apparently maintained religously. I know
to check for all the obvious
things like 60K service, oil changes, tranny
replacement(s), etc.. I
also know a number of you have some very high mile
cars, so I know they have
the potential to last a long time.
I guess what I'm after is, is this just way too many
miles for the money even
if it's in great shape? I haven't seen
the car yet since it's about 1 1/2
hours away, and want to make sure I'm not
wasting my time.. Is there anything
specific to 95 models that I need
to be aware of or look for?
I was actually planning on looking for a low to average
mile 94-96 over the
next 9 months.. should I wait?
thanks..
Dave,
My 94 VR4 has roughly 91,500 miles on
it and it runs great. I bought the car with 54k
miles on it and had the
trans replaced shortly thereafter. I've yet to do the timing
belt
(money, shhh), and only recently changed the plugs and wires. The plugs
had opened
up to a gap of .045 or worse, and the car stumbled under hard
acceleration at times.
With the original plugs and wires and only an air
filter for mods, I was able to
consitantly run 13.60s while slipping the
clutch slightly, and even ran 13.3s while
dumping it and spinning. The
car now runs better than ever. Arty's 91 VR4 has over
115k miles on it
if I recall correctly, and he's run 11.41@124.32 with his mods. He's
running
23 lbs of boost and says his factory rings are the only problem now. The
stock
pistons are fine, and they are said to be one of the only weak links in
the 3000s
engine. If properly taken care of, I don't think the mileage
should be a big issue, but
don't hesitate to gather other opinions.
Also, that sounds like it's very close to NADA
retail value, not a steal, and
not a bad deal.
good luck,
Jason
Dave wrote:
> I need your collective advice..
>
> I
may be selling my 91 VR4 this week, and know of a 95 VR4 that I could
pick
> up for $18,000.. Here's the catch.. the 95 has 90,000
miles, and no warranty.
> However, it's a one owner car and was apparently
maintained religously. I know
> to check for all the obvious things
like 60K service, oil changes, tranny
> replacement(s), etc.. I also
know a number of you have some very high mile
> cars, so I know they have
the potential to last a long time.
>
> I guess what I'm after is, is
this just way too many miles for the money even
> if it's in great
shape? I haven't seen the car yet since it's about 1 1/2
>
hours away, and want to make sure I'm not wasting my time.. Is there
anything
> specific to 95 models that I need to be aware of or look
for?
>
> I was actually planning on looking for a low to average
mile 94-96 over the
> next 9 months.. should I wait?
>
>
thanks..
>
> Dave
> 91 VR4 (may soon be gone.. :(
but may be replaced.. :) )
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 05:21:01
1999
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Don't get an HKS for a NA. It costs WAY too much! My 93
R/T sounds great
and has a noticeable power increase after I installed a
custom system.
Have an exhaust shop fabricate a 3" pipe from the
catalytic converter,
then Y it off into 2- 2 1/2" pipes and have dual
ansa baffled tips put
on the end. It sounds great-borderline obnoxious-but it
does give high
end power. You might need mufflers if you have inspection
there, it is
loud, but it sounds good. The 24 valve head breathes well, and
it
doesn't sound like a lawnmower.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 06:53:19
1999
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From:
"Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Final deal on Donnellye electronic mirror purchase
Date: Thu, 18 Mar
1999 09:10:02 -0500
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I just received the finals on the mirror deal. I
can get them
through my business for $160 + S&H. If I can round up
10 people I can get
the price to $140 + S&H.
I will be putting in an
order soon so let me know if anyone else is
interested.
Andy
1. Auto dimming mirror with compass and
temperature
2. Auto dimming mirror with compass and map lights.
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > Has anyone
had experience with these pads?
> >
> > I'm thinking about
giving them a try and I'm looking for feedback about
> > their
performance, dust, etc.
>
> [ ... ] It is very possible
that not
> truely turning them and actually removing metal may have
contributed to
> the rapid wear of the pads.
Metal Matrix pads lasted about 15k miles (mostly
highway/Autobahn) on my
front stock rotors, which were turned immediately
prior to
installation. They do seem to improve braking but wear out too
fast and
do seem to create more dust. My rotors also re-warped after
only a few
high-speed stops (eg- 130 mph hard down to 70 mph) with these
pads. Now
I'm back on stock pads and am pretty disappointed.
Might be time to
look into Roger's Bremsa system...
BTW, I also have stainless steel lines, though they did
little more than
boost confidence (they are less prone to
failure).
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 07:31:07
1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999
16:32:29 +0100
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Hi Everyone.
The first day I drove my 3s, I discovered that the
stock boost gauge
would go ALL THE WAY UP, past 14 PSI..
Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and the
max
I got was
Flash boost
.75 bar
Steady boost
.55
bar
Questions ?
Is this normal ?
Is it normal for the stock boost
gauge to be THAT Off ?
Any possibility to correct the stock boost gauge
?
Best
The stock boost gauge is pretty much useless as a
measurement of boost. On
my '94 the needle is pretty much pegged at
anything over 10 psi as measured
with an SPI gauge.
The stock boost gauge calculates manifold pressure
based on RPM and airflow
from the MAS rather than measuring it using a MAP
sensor. Consider it a
nifty gadget to impress passengers and
demonstrate that there is indeed
boost present. Beyond that it is
unfortunately just a novelty display.
Correcting the stock boost gauge is not feasible since
the calculation is
performed by the code in the ECU. Besides that, it
would always be an
approximation, not a true measurement. You did the
right thing which was to
install a good aftermarket boost gauge.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi
Everyone.
>
> The first day I drove my 3s, I discovered that the
stock boost gauge
> would go ALL THE WAY UP, past 14 PSI..
>
>
Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and the max
> I got
was
>
> Flash boost
> .75 bar
> Steady boost
> .55
bar
>
> Questions ?
>
> Is this normal ?
> Is it
normal for the stock boost gauge to be THAT Off ?
> Any possibility to
correct the stock boost gauge ?
>
> Best
>
>
Henri
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 07:44:52
1999
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Date:
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Subject: Re: Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?
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I would not even consider
buying a VR4 with that many miles unless you
have an aftermarket warranty
arranged. Don't buy the car then start looking-
it's asking for trouble.
I bought a '91 3000GT SL that was absolutely immaculate -
doctor owned,
good records, barely even any dirt on the floormats - it had
90k on it. I
figured I would get a warranty after I shopped around and found
the best.
After all, the non-turbo 3000GTs have some of the best reliability
ratings of
all cars made (theis was 50% of the reason I bought the
car).
A couple weeks after I bought the car, the first and only
thing that I ever
noticed wrong with the car - it started "ticking"
on the way to work one
morning. 15 minutes later it was a loud knock. The
engine had suffered major
internal damage due to a cracked crankshaft - and I
had not purchased a
warranty yet. DUMB DUMB DUMB.
So to make
a long story even longer - if it looks like a nice car - buy it
AFTER getting
a warranty - you can not tell how long a car is going to last by
how well it
has been cared for - a VR4 is going to need major mechanical work
sometime
while you own it.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 07:46:13
1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999
10:43:39 -0500
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I heard if your replace the stock boost gauge in
the stock place you need to
replace all the gauges. Is that true?
I need a turbo timer for my car so
would it be better for me to get the Blitz
with the Boost gauge. Thanks for
any info.
Joshua
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E. King [mailto:beking@home.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 18, 1999 10:41 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT
innacurrate ??
The stock boost gauge is pretty much useless as
a
measurement of boost. On
my '94 the needle is pretty much
pegged at anything over 10
psi as measured
with an SPI
gauge.
> Best
>
>
Henri
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 07:52:46
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999
07:40:35 -0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
>
>The first day I drove my 3s, I discovered
that the stock boost gauge
>would go ALL THE WAY UP, past 14
PSI..
>
>Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and the
max
>I got was
>
>Flash boost
>.75 bar
>Steady
boost
>.55 bar
Sounds right to me --- I bought a 93 stealth and
had the same results
14+ on stock gage and 9 PSI on an aftermarket gage. The
stock gage
is apparently electrical and therefore calculates the boost based
on
engine parameters.
Dave wrote:
> snip
>
> I was actually planning on
looking for a low to average mile 94-96 over the
> next 9 months..
should I wait?
>
Hi Dave;
My 2c worth ( mutiplied by .62) is to wait and find a
lower mileage car. You obviously
love the breed, and I can empathize with
your thirst to get one soon...but patience is a
virtue which does pay off in
this hunt. There are those of us who drive it on weekends,
garage it,
wax it religiously, and smile at it. That's the kind of baby you want.
High
mileage implies wear and tear to all mechanical/electrical components
and the interior,
which normally has not yet occurred on low mileage cars.
Much of this wear can be
glossed over with good detailing before sale, but
it's still there. As an example,
there was a 94 for sale here recently
with 87 thousand kilometers on it (that's about
45+ k miles) and they wanted
$28 (multiplied by.62) for it. That's a year older with
half the miles and
probably could be had for the same price...so keep looking.
Best of luck
Darc
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 10:24:28
1999
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From: "Michael
O'Krancy" <mokrancy@renaissance.ca>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: stumbling stealth
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:23:15
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Gentlemen,
How are things? I read Michael Reiss' post to
the list about having the
hesitation problem under load as well as the
associated motor mount
replacement solution. I seem to have the same
problem however I would like
to describe the problem to you and ask that
confirm if it sounds similar to
yours (Michael), as well as solicit any
comments from the group.
First off, when I rev the engine in neutral, it
absolutely roars without
hesitation. It's a thing of beauty
really. This leads me to believe that
the problem lies not in the
engine but somewhere else down the power train
line. Anyway as I
accelerate hard, the car stumbles and buckles. Worst.
The clunking
sound you described is something I am also hearing and
associated with this
is usually a series of almost "pulsing" hesitations.
Now as speed
increases, the problem seems to fade. It is almost as if under
a
certain RPM and speed the car finds a resonant frequency that results in
this
loss of power.
Worth mentioning Mike is that I am not experiencing the
shifter play that
you described. I would really like to experience
smooth aggressive
acceleration but as it stands, I am at a loss for what to
do.
regards
Mike O'Krancy
91STT, bone stock.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 10:45:10
1999
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Re: Team3S: stumbling stealth
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Hi Michael;
Gapping and or replacing your plugs to .034 will likely
take care of most of the
problem. New plug wires are always helpful, as with
age they begin to break down
a bit. However, those provided with our cars are
generally excellent for stock
conditions.When did you last change your
fuel and air filters??
A stumble under load/acceleration will in 99/100 cases
not show if you sit and
rev the engine in neutral. If it does miss you need a
tune up 9or more) bad.
Regap or replace the plugs if old at .034 and
check/replace your filters and
you will likely have the problem solved.
Also, insure you are using high octane
or you'll get stumbling for sure. This
sort of stumble cases a brief clunking in
the drive components as the
hesitation is picked up by them in both directions.
Once resolved, the clunk
you describe will be gone.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 11:18:18
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Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:18:14 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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Re: Team3S: stumbling stealth
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You could be overboosting at lower RPM and hitting fuel
cut. Then as
RPM rise and your stock turbo's boost falls off, your
stumbling stops.
Check your boost control solenoid valve. It is on
the center of the
firewall, and is the right-most (closest to driver)
solenoid. Make sure
the hoses are OK and the electrical connector
didn't come off.
Good luck,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 12:19:13
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Re: Team3S: stumbling stealth
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> You could be overboosting at lower RPM and hitting
fuel cut.
This doesn't sound like fuel cut as he never lost his
teeths in the steering
wheel. But it comes close as the timing can be
retarded.
To check out the proper operation of the stuff either
hook up a check device to
read the code or follow the procedure described in
the manual to check it out by
"hand".
Before you go to a dealer do this :
- check MAS wires properly hooked up and everything
mentioned before
- use a fuel injection cleaner to make sure the valves are
closing properly
and the injectors can spray the juice.
- check (at
least) the front plugs for their color. Regap as adviced by Darc.
- check the
plug wires (at least the front ones)
As you are having some miles on the car I suppose the
60k was made long time
before. Do you know if the pulley has been replaced.
It just sounds like the
timing is off it's way and if there is a weak part
the belt can slip causing a
wrong timing.
Sorry, there are many of possibilities.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 12:39:10
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
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If the ECU is doing this calculation and it is that far
off what does
that say about how the ECU is controling the injector duration
(mostly)
and timing. Is the inaccuracy dealth with elsewhere in the
code??
Regards,
Lynn
Barry E. King wrote:
>
> The stock boost
gauge is pretty much useless as a measurement of
> boost. On my '94
the needle is pretty much pegged at anything over
> 10 psi as measured
with an SPI gauge.
>
> Correcting the stock boost gauge is not
feasible since the calculation
> is performed by the code in the
ECU. Besides that, it would always be
> an approximation, not a
true measurement.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 13:43:41
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From: "Micheal A.
Whelan" <mwhelan@pdtech.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Service Manual Source
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:31:01
-0500
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I purchased my manual directly from Mopar. Phone
is 800 890 4038 in the US
. The cost was $59.00 US plus $6.00 for
shipping. I also picked up the
owners manual for an additional
$10.00. The manuals (service) for engine,
chassis and body and the
second for electrical are ordered by year of
vehicle. You can request
the service publications order form (84-320-4737
(Rev. 8.98 00M)) to order by
mail. The order location is in Strongsville,
Ohio (USA) and is open
8:00 to 4:30 Eastern Standard Time.. People were
great and delivery was
fast....Good Luck Mike Whelan Traverse
City,
Michigan.
>Where can I find the mechanics manual.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 14:42:49
1999
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Hate to sound repetitive, but this sounds
suspiciously similar to the
'stumbles' I had until I replaced my plugs and
wires. My car runs better now
than it has in the 40k miles I've owned
it, it's now at 91k miles. Unless
they've already been checked, they're
probably the cause.
good luck,
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 15:19:34
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Has anyone installed Ground Control camber plates
????
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 15:49:29
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999
17:49:04 -0600
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> The stock boost gauge is pretty much useless as
a
>measurement of boost.
Will I be able to rely on my Super AVC-R
boost
readings (once I get it installed)?
Regards, ptg
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Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...
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** High Priority **
Here's one I've been thinking about...What is the
advantage of a Mass
Airflow Sensor induction style versus a Volumetric
system, as found
on RX-7's? I know when installing the HKS VPC you remove the
MAS, and
the signal "lies" to the ECU, thereby creating a
"speed density
system". Is there some advantage for either
system? It would seem to
me that a mass airflow sensor would give truer
measurements of the air
that actually enters the intake tract...Any
comment?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 16:01:51
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Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
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Paul T. Golley wrote:
>
>
> Will I be able to rely on my Super
AVC-R boost
> readings (once I get it installed)?
You sure will. You may (or may not) want to instal a
dial boost gauge as well, but the
SAVC-R reads it as it should, and fine
tunes the spikes out for you as well.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 16:08:07
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From:
"Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 19:10:47
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Well it looks like my car will be returned to me by
next week so the works
it about to begin. While doing the change over I
will want to install a new
clutch. I was wondering which one should I
install and where is a good
place to purchase it from.
Many thanks,
Andy
93 VR4 soon to be 6
speed
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 16:20:02
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From: Dan Jett
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Subject:
Team3S: Question on what clutch to install? -Reply
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** High Priority **
I installed the Centerforce dual friction clutch, and
so far I'm very
happy with it (~5000miles). It grabs better than anyhting
I've
driven, and about the only complaint I have about it is the
chatter,
common with hi-po clutches....Actually, to be honest, I think
it
chatters less than stock though! I haven't dumped the clutch at
obscene
rpm's though, I'm reluctant to because I'm sure it wouldn't
be
"nice" to my still stock driveline. It cost me $1100 installed,
and
that may be my only other complaint....Expensive!!!
Good luck!
DJett
92 Pearl Stealth TT, HKS dual power flow
intake, centerforce clutch,
soon to be ported intake manifold
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 17:01:55
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999
18:02:16 -0700
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Calculating boost and determining fuel requirements are
two different
things. The maps in the ECU are calibrated primarily with
airflow (engine
load) against RPM (with other corrections thrown in) so there
is no need for
it to know actual boost. Boost is usually only relevant
for MAP
(speed/density) systems and even then only to ultimately determine
air
volume. The MAS already measures airflow which does vary with
boost
therefore no need for the ECU to know boost.
As long as those maps are correct, and I am sure they
are conservatively
safe for a stock engine, then all is well.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> If the
ECU is doing this calculation and it is that far off what does
> that say
about how the ECU is controling the injector duration (mostly)
> and
timing. Is the inaccuracy dealth with elsewhere in the
code??
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 17:01:57
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:02:18
-0700
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The speed/density vs. MAS/MAF debate reaches religous
furor in some camps.
Speed/density relies primarily on absolute manifold
pressure (MAP) plotted
against RPM. Correcting with air temperature
(ideally manifold air
temperature) you can calculate the amount of air with
pretty reasonable
accuracy. The problem with MAP systems is that in
order to be very accurate
the ECU needs to know a lot about the engine -- VE
curve, camshaft progfile,
injector size, fuel pressure and so on. This
is all possible and works
great just so long as none of that stuff ever
changes. If it does then the
ECU must be reprogrammed.
A mass airflow sensor actually measures the amount of
air entering the
engine. The latter is demonstrably more accurate and
usually more sensitive
but can be more expensive and prone to certain types
of failures depending
upon the type (hot wire, vortex style etc.). The
one exception to this is
the old flap style MAF which are notorisously
crappy. The vortex style as
used on the 3/S is extremely
accurate.
Usually, ECUs with properly implemented MAS systems
will tolerate all manor
of engine modifications with only the need to adjust
for the change in
airflow. This is why the TRE MASC is such a handy
device.
Like the VPC, tools like the AFC and MASC also trick
the ECU into seeing
different airflow values than what are actually measured
by the MAS.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> ** High
Priority **
>
> Here's one I've been thinking about...What is the
advantage of a Mass
> Airflow Sensor induction style versus a Volumetric
system, as found
> on RX-7's? I know when installing the HKS VPC you
remove the MAS, and
> the signal "lies" to the ECU, thereby
creating a "speed density
> system". Is there some
advantage for either system? It would seem to
> me that a mass airflow
sensor would give truer measurements of the air
> that actually enters the
intake tract...Any comment?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 17:09:27
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Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 19:07:21
-0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need
Cat-Back Air Filter & New rims &Tires
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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1992 Dodge Stealth Rt Needs Your Imput only 17,000 org
Miles on Her!
Cat Back Systems- Recomendations Please
K&N or Another brand - Recomendations
Please
Home Depot Ram Air or Not-Recomendations
Please
I Want to use Redline Syn Oil in engine and in manual
transmission. I =
live in minnesota and have been told to use 10w30 in engine
but is 10w40 =
okay. Also was told to use 2 Quarts mtls and 1 Quart mt90 in
=
transmission.Also if i go with dual Exhaust my bumper has only single
=
cut out. Can i by another bumper skirt for it. Thanks Everyone for your
=
response. Ken
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1992
Dodge Stealth Rt Needs Your =
Imput only=20
17,000 org Miles on
Her!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Cat Back Systems-
Recomendations=20
Please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>K&N or Another brand -
=
Recomendations=20
Please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Home Depot Ram Air or
=
Not-Recomendations=20
Please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I Want to use Redline Syn Oil in =
engine and
in=20
manual transmission. I live in minnesota and have been told to use
10w30 =
in=20
engine but is 10w40 okay. Also was told to use 2 Quarts mtls
and 1 Quart =
mt90 in=20
transmission.Also if i go with dual Exhaust my
bumper has only single =
cut out.=20
Can i by another bumper skirt for it.
Thanks Everyone for your
=
response. =20
Ken</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Re: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?
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I heard nothing but good about the RPS clutches. The
Carbon Claw seems to be not
good for a daily driver but the new Turbo Carbon
offers a good pedal feeling
including great hold on the high rpm dumps. I
probably will be soon in the need
to get a new clutch :) and I probably will
go their way.
http://www.turboclutch.com/
Maybe
someone else has more input on them ?
> If the ECU is doing this calculation and it is
that far off what does
> that say about how the ECU is controling the
injector duration (mostly)
> and timing. Is the inaccuracy dealth
with elsewhere in the code??
Interestingly, on the european 3000GT the boost meter
(combo with water temp) is
really accurate but very, very slow. Also it only
goes up to 0.7 bars and guess
what where it stays with 1.0 or more bars
:)
Nobody really know how the ECU calculates boost but it
is not used to determine
the appropriate cell in the fuel-map and the future
ones that have to be taken.
The figures on the controllers do their job but
when having a Blitz the size of
the digits is pretty small and as your job is
watching the street (and traffic)
looking down the controller is not so good.
Therefore a boost gauge is good to
"read" the boost level with a
glimps as well as to determine a possible
boost-waveing.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 17:24:35
1999
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Date:
Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:12:44 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel
Cut
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Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front window
whenever my SPI boost
guage hits 18psi. Is there anyway to get rid of
this or is ECU
reprogramming the only way? I know that in my Talon that
I had last year
a guuted Mass Air Sensor and a few other free be tricks
eliminated this.
I know that is not a good idea on these cars but does
anyone have any
other ideas?
Del
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 17:25:06
1999
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To:
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Date:
Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:09:21 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Are syncros the same in both
5 and 6 speed tranny's?
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I have an appointment to get my 2nd gear and 2nd gear
syncro replaced
over easter weekend. One quick question, I have a '91
VR4 which is
obviously a 5 speed, and I'm not sure if the shop got the new
parts from
a 5 or a 6 speed. Does anyone know if the gears and the
syncros are
different between the two, or are they the same?
Please
someone have the right answer!
Thanks everyone,
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999
18:26:50 -0700
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I have one sitting here that will be going into the car
very soon. I'll
post for anyone interested once I have some idea as to
how it shakes out.
One issue though is that I do not know how representative
this clutch will
be compared to the Carbon Claw or the newer Turbo Carbon
clutch since mine
was supposedly a "one-off". The only thing
I know about its lineage is that
the material and disc was based on
development for a 700 HP Supra MkIV
dragster. RPS claimed that it
performed flawlessly in that car but who
knows... *shrug* RPS also
claims it is streetable. We'll see.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I heard
nothing but good about the RPS clutches. The Carbon Claw
> seems to be
not
> good for a daily driver but the new Turbo Carbon offers a
good
> pedal feeling
> including great hold on the high rpm dumps. I
probably will be
> soon in the need
> to get a new clutch :) and I
probably will go their way.
> http://www.turboclutch.com/
> Maybe
someone else has more input on them ?
>
> Regards,
>
Roger
Through my clutch experiences with All Wheel Drive
cars, Talon, Eclipse,
3000GT, I would personally stay away from Centerforce
Dual Friction
clutches. I STRONGLY suggest using A.C.T. clutches.
They can take a
serious beating and will still grab hard.I had one in my high
12 second
all wheel drive Talon last summer and because of massive launches
smoked
it a couple of times. I'd let it sit overnight and the next day
it would
grab just as good if not better. My friend has a RPS Turbo
Clutch in his
'93 VR-4 which he has to replace every 7 to 9 months. Not
sure about
Clutchmasters except for rumors of killin driveline parts and the
fact
that they cost a lot. I ordered my ACT 2740lb. pressure plate
(stock is
2300lbs.) and street disk yesterday for $450.00.
I'll give a
full report after I get my '91 VR-4 into a race shop on April
2nd for the
install and they are also going to be replacing my 2nd gear
syncro and 2nd
gear.
Hope this helps a little,
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 18:04:06
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** High Priority **
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 18:04:29
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel Cut
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Del,
Please list your mods as I do not have them in my small
brain (too much comp
stuff, hehe).
> Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front
window whenever my SPI boost
> guage hits 18psi.
I'm sure you know why you're running into fuel cut and
that this hurts your
engine. Also for sure you're getting retarded timing
before the cut and your ECU
falls back to the low-octane gas map that causes
cut even earlier !
We have some cars that show timing retard right after
14.2psi caused by the ECU
that senses knock, even witch a still rich mixture
!. You can prevent this by
giving the engine more fuel to cool down the
combustion chamber, e.g. with an
AFC. Fuel cut normally appears around
1.25bars on cars without fuel mods but
using an AFC and increasing the fuel
amount causes earlier fuel cut. This
because the stock fuel system is at it's
end even at 1.05bars. The IDC on Jim's
car showed more than 90% on the dyno
around 1.0bars :) Our ECU then first closes
the wastegate-solenoid valve
thinking the wastegates will then open for sure.
When this doesn't cure the
situation, it retards the timing and finally
activates fuel cut if nothing
helps. If this happens some times the ECU jumps
onto the low-octane fuel map
and also retards the timing for the first 20
seconds (not really sure) and it
doesn't allow you to go over 3200rpm.
> Is there anyway to get rid of this or is ECU
reprogramming the only way?
Reprogramming the ECU means tweaking the fuel-map and
changing the limiter.
That's it ! So the only solution to drive your car save
in different ambient
temps with more than say 15psi is to change the fuel
system and other things to
reduce the combustion chamber temperature.
Unfortunately, I do have some
experience with this and they can be seen on
:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
Just go to the "problems" page
:(
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 18:15:24
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999
21:11:03 -0500
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>I heard nothing but good about the RPS
clutches. The Carbon Claw seems to
be not
>good for a daily driver but
the new Turbo Carbon offers a good pedal
feeling
>including great hold
on the high rpm dumps. I probably will be soon in the
need
>to get a
new clutch :) and I probably will go their way.
>http://www.turboclutch.com/
>Maybe
someone else has more input on them
?
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 18:46:21
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
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Subject:
Team3S: Anybody Find anything out about the auto Tranny?
Date: Thu, 18 Mar
1999 21:44:09 -0500
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Has anybody been able to find out what type of
automatic transmission was
used in those very limited vr-4's and
Stealths? Could it be the same as in
the SL's??? just curious
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 18:54:31
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Date:
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Can somebody describe the "Home Depot Ram
Air" talked about here?
Thanks,
Lynn #0232
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 18 20:30:03
1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Anybody Find anything out about the auto
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What??? Does anybody know anybody who has a auto
vr4/tt??? Thats pretty
intresting. I wonder how they
perform,
Larry A,
94 3000gt SL
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 01:35:32
1999
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=?us-ascii?Q?RE=3A_Team3S=3A_Results=3A__getting_rid_of_the_in?=
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As a matter on interest, I thought I had solved my lash
adjuster noise
problem by using Mobil-1 synthetic after trying most other
cures apart
from replacement on lash adjusters. There has been no noise from
the
lash adjusters for the last 6 weeks since the Mobil-1 went in. Now
in
the last couple of days I've noticed that old ticking noise
starting
again once the car gets warm, so it looks like its time to replace
the
offending parts.
Regards
Andrew
Australia
Steven Clarke wrote:
>
> You have either
got air in your lifters or (more probably) bad lifters.
>
> Steve
Clarke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 1:10 PM
>
To: 'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S Mailing
List'
> Subject: Team3S:
Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve
cov er
>
> Ok, so for those
wanting the executive summary: it's not gone.
>
> The
symptoms:
> * Ticking sound coming
from under the valve cover(s - hard to hear
> back bank).
>
* Quiet (almost not noticeable) when engine
is cold, loud when engine
> is warm.
>
* Doesn't go away when revving the engine
slightly.
> * Sound like
> http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav
BTW thanks to
> Rob for putting that on the web!
>
> Things
I've tried:
> * 10W30 dino oil
>
* 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
>
* 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
>
* 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
(currently)
> * Firestone oil filter
(ok, so that's bad)
> * OEM
filters
> * K&N Oil Filter
(currently)
> * Marvel Mystery oil
(1qt MMO /3 qts M1 5W30Syn)
> * Arty's
cleaning method (posted on
> http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
>
* Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the
dipstick (4.3qt with filter
> replace - NA car)
>
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the
dipstick. (4.5qt with
> filter replace - NA car)
>
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and
back down several times.
> * Removing
oil cap while engine's running to verify that oil is
> getting to the cams
and valves. Lots o' oil being slung around. Looks ok
> upon
visual inspection.
> * Beating
forehead repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
> the Mitsu
diamond onto my forehead. Perhaps will try this when engine is
> hot
:)
>
> Things I haven't tried (yet):
>
* Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on
the dipstick. (How much
> should I drain out if it's currently sitting at
the top mark on the
> dipsitck???
>
* Anything others might suggest
>
* Talking to the dealer (trying to do
everything I can before I do
> this).
>
> Possible Causes I
Know of:
> * Too much oil in oil pan
(to be explored asap)
> * Bad lash
adjuster(s)
> * Bad bearing somewhere
(where?)
> * Bad valve(s)
>
* Gummy bears I accidentally left under the
valve cover ;)
>
> So, anyone have any other suggestions?
Possible causes of the problem?
> Ways to solve the problem? Is it
time to go to the dealer? Help?
>
> TIA
>
--Erik
>
>
------
----------
> Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters
mod
>
------
----------
> "Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know
me.
> And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of
the
> Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a voice
from
> a whirlwind that drowns out all questions. He will
likely
> never get a personal glimpse of God in this life. He
will
> only see me." --Philip
Yancey Disappointment With God
>
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
*
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 05:17:59
1999
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Date:
Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:20:04 -0500
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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I'm having some trouble with the front brakes on my 93
Stealth ES.
Here's what's happening: I start to slow down and turn the
steering
wheel at the same time (usually when I'm going into a parking
spot).
All of a sudden, the brake pedal starts vibrating up an down
violently,
all the while making this awful sounding grinding noises that are
coming
from the area of the front brakes. Also, when this happens, the car
car
doesn't slow down and stop like it's supposed to. It takes a lot
longer
as a result of the problem. It also happens whenever I
slide, like on
ice and snow. If I am coming to a stop and I step on the
brakes and the
car slides, the brakes will do the same thing. Please
help. I think
there is a serious problem. I already checked, and
there was a recall
on the brake hoses (whatrever those are), but that was
already fixed by
the previous owner..
Thanks,
Leland
93 Dodge Stealth ES
This is normal for vehicles with ABS. The vibration you
are feeling is the
ABS pump doing it's job to prevent the wheels from locking
up. The
vibration and noise is very unsettling, I personally can't stand
ABS.
Unfortunately you will either have to live with it, or take it easy
braking
on wet or slick roads. If you are experiencing this on dry roads,
during
light braking, you have a problem that you will have to have checked
out at
the dealer. Before spending major bucks, contact me, i have some ABS
parts
for sale. However, if the "ABS" light is not coming on, you
just need to
take it easy.....
Wayne
At 08:20 AM 3/19/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm
having some trouble with the front brakes on my 93 Stealth ES.
>Here's
what's happening: I start to slow down and turn the steering
>wheel
at the same time (usually when I'm going into a parking spot).
>All of a
sudden, the brake pedal starts vibrating up an down violently,
>all
the while making this awful sounding grinding noises that are coming
>from
the area of the front brakes. Also, when this happens, the car
car
>doesn't slow down and stop like it's supposed to. It takes a
lot longer
>as a result of the problem. It also happens
whenever I slide, like on
>ice and snow. If I am coming to a stop
and I step on the brakes and the
>car slides, the brakes will do the same
thing. Please help. I think
>there is a serious problem.
I already checked, and there was a recall
>on the brake hoses (whatrever
those are), but that was already fixed by
>the previous
owner..
>
>Thanks,
>
>Leland
>93 Dodge Stealth
ES
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE71EF.4363F7E0
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If you have a '91-'93 a vpc will solve it. '94 and up
you probably have to reprogram the ecu.
Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front window
whenever my SPI boost
guage hits 18psi. Is there anyway to get rid of
this or is ECU
reprogramming the only way? I know that in my Talon that
I had last year
a guuted Mass Air Sensor and a few other free be tricks
eliminated this.
I know that is not a good idea on these cars but does
anyone have any
other ideas?
Del
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE71EF.4363F7E0
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE71EF.4363F7E0--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 06:52:33
1999
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From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:52:25
PST
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Has anyone heard anything new about the TRE MASC?
When is it suppose to
be back on the market?
Chris
>airflow. This is why the TRE MASC is such
a handy device.
>
>Like the VPC, tools like the AFC and MASC also
trick the ECU into
seeing
>different airflow values than what are
actually measured by the MAS.
>
>
>Barry
>
Hey Andrew;
I don't remember if you flushed or not?? It will make a
difference and clean out the baked oil. The oil
bakes (which is why people
install Turbo timers) but an idle down period before shutdown
really
discourages this from occurring...and hence forstalls ticking. A
simple change to Mobil 1 does help, but
the flush prior to it really is a
quantum leap.
Best
Darc
Andrew Clark wrote:
> As a matter on interest, I thought I had solved my
lash adjuster noise
> problem by using Mobil-1 synthetic after trying most
other cures apart
> from replacement on lash adjusters. There has been no
noise from the
> lash adjusters for the last 6 weeks since the Mobil-1
went in. Now in
> the last couple of days I've noticed that old ticking
noise starting
> again once the car gets warm, so it looks like its time
to replace the
> offending parts.
> Regards
> Andrew
>
Australia
>
> Steven Clarke wrote:
> >
> > You
have either got air in your lifters or (more probably) bad lifters.
>
>
> > Steve Clarke
> >
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 1:10 PM
> >
To: 'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S Mailing
List'
> > Subject: Team3S:
Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve
cov er
> >
> > Ok, so for
those wanting the executive summary: it's not gone.
> >
>
> The symptoms:
> > * Ticking
sound coming from under the valve cover(s - hard to hear
> > back
bank).
> > * Quiet (almost not
noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
> > is warm.
>
> * Doesn't go away when revving the
engine slightly.
> > * Sound
like
> > http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav
BTW thanks to
> > Rob for putting that on the web!
> >
>
> Things I've tried:
> > * 10W30
dino oil
> > * 0W30 Mobil 1
Synthetic
> > * 5W30 Mobil 1
Synthetic
> > * 10W30 Mobil 1
Synthetic (currently)
> > *
Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's bad)
> >
* OEM filters
> >
* K&N Oil Filter (currently)
>
> * Marvel Mystery oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1
5W30Syn)
> > * Arty's cleaning
method (posted on
> > http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
>
> * Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the
dipstick (4.3qt with filter
> > replace - NA car)
> >
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the
dipstick. (4.5qt with
> > filter replace - NA car)
> >
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and
back down several times.
> > *
Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify that oil is
> >
getting to the cams and valves. Lots o' oil being slung around.
Looks ok
> > upon visual inspection.
> >
* Beating forehead repeatedly against front
valve cover and bruising
> > the Mitsu diamond onto my forehead.
Perhaps will try this when engine is
> > hot :)
> >
>
> Things I haven't tried (yet):
> >
* Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on
the dipstick. (How much
> > should I drain out if it's currently
sitting at the top mark on the
> > dipsitck???
> >
* Anything others might suggest
> >
* Talking to the dealer (trying to do
everything I can before I do
> > this).
> >
> >
Possible Causes I Know of:
> > *
Too much oil in oil pan (to be explored asap)
> >
* Bad lash adjuster(s)
> >
* Bad bearing somewhere (where?)
>
> * Bad valve(s)
> >
* Gummy bears I accidentally left under the
valve cover ;)
> >
> > So, anyone have any other
suggestions? Possible causes of the problem?
> > Ways to solve
the problem? Is it time to go to the dealer? Help?
>
>
> > TIA
> > --Erik
> >
> >
------
----------
> > Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
> > '95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters
mod
> >
------
----------
> > "Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does
know me.
> > And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine
of the
> > Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a
voice from
> > a whirlwind that drowns out all questions.
He will likely
> > never get a personal glimpse of God in this
life. He will
> > only see me."
--Philip Yancey Disappointment With God
> >
-------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> > *
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 07:24:20
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:24:39
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Likely never. The inventor/designer of the MASC
has taken a position at a
performance electronics company.
I've posted it twice now but haven't heard any
feedback.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Has
anyone heard anything new about the TRE MASC? When is it suppose
to
> be back on the market?
>
> Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 07:28:06
1999
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:28:01 -0500
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes
In-Reply-To: <4.1.19990319083342.0093cf00@mail.hypertech-inc.com>
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On Fri, 19 Mar 1999, Wayne wrote:
> This is normal for vehicles with ABS. The
vibration you are feeling is
> the ABS pump doing it's job to prevent the
wheels from locking up. The
I'm not sure I completely agree. What he's
describing is much more severe
than anything I've ever experienced on other
ABS-equipped vehicles. (My
93 Stealth ES doesn't have ABS, so I'm not
familiar with the setup Mitsu
installed.) Most functioning ABS I've
driven with will vibrate the pedal
slightly, and you might hear a whirring
noise (like very muted machine-gun
fire). But violent pedal motion and
huge clunking noise indicate a
problem somewhere.
At risk of starting a huge debate, I have to speak up
in support of ABS
for *most* "real world" driving situtations. If
you're racing, then you've
probably had lots of training and/or experience in
all types of braking
procedures: in those situations, ABS would be a
hinderance. However, if
you're driving along in southern Indiana, and
the bridge is covered with
black ice, ABS is a life saver! (Personal
experience in my 94 Jimmy, when
ABS helped me steer around a non-ABS vehicle
which was spinning out.)
My recommendation to the original complaint is to go
test drive a new
ABS-equipped 3000GT SL, and try to duplicate the
conditions. See how the
noise and pedal vibration compares to
yours. That would help indicate if
your ABS is functioning
properly.
Experience is something you don't get until just after
you need it.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 07:36:00
1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Paint and cooling question
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 16:37:23
+0100
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hello everyone...
I have two questions..
my 92 Stealth is white pearl, but the pop-up headlights
are black...and I do
not like this.
Given that my car will be at the body
shop for a paint job (small cosmetic
problems), I'm thinking about having the
black metal plates above the
headlamps repainted with the same color as the
body. I downloaded pictures
of the same car, and electronically changed the
color, and I kinda like the
result....any comments ??
Even if it's still cold here (was snowing this
morning....sorry Roger, bad
news, Ca weather was better) I noticed that the
underhood temperature is
HIGH....
I'm wondering if there's a way to change
/ transform these
cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we have on the bonnet
?...would be a good
way to reduce engine temperature (thus increasing
HP....), and given that
these are hold on the bonned via bolts...should be a
bolt on (of course, pun
intended )upgrade.
Best regards
Henri
-----Original Message-----
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch [mailto:lehir@genesiscom.ch]
Sent:
Friday, March 19, 1999 7:37 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Paint and cooling question
<snip>
I'm wondering if there's a
way to change / transform these
cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we have on
the bonnet ?...would be a good
way to reduce engine temperature (thus
increasing HP....), and given that
these are hold on the bonned via
bolts...should be a bolt on (of course, pun
intended )upgrade.
Best regards
Henri
=======================
Henri...
Arty has some Bozz Speed scoops on his 1st gen, they
look great. Beware,
however, they are extraction scoops, not induction. Still
a good way to
release some of the heat. I wish the 2nd gens had the same
strut tower
covers.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 08:09:27
1999
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From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Paint and cooling question
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 11:09:40
-0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Personally, I agree with you on the headlight covers. I
think they look
better being the same color as the rest of the
body.
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Genesiscon
> Lehir
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 10:37
AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: Paint and cooling question
>
>
> Hello
everyone...
>
> I have two questions..
>
> my 92 Stealth
is white pearl, but the pop-up headlights are
> black...and I do
>
not like this.
> Given that my car will be at the body shop for a paint
job (small cosmetic
> problems), I'm thinking about having the black metal
plates above the
> headlamps repainted with the same color as the body. I
downloaded pictures
> of the same car, and electronically changed the
color, and I
> kinda like the
> result....any comments
??
>
> Even if it's still cold here (was snowing this
morning....sorry Roger, bad
> news, Ca weather was better) I noticed that
the underhood temperature is
> HIGH....
> I'm wondering if there's a
way to change / transform these
> cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we
have on the bonnet ?...would
> be a good
> way to reduce engine
temperature (thus increasing HP....), and given that
> these are hold on
the bonned via bolts...should be a bolt on (of
> course, pun
>
intended )upgrade.
>
> Best regards
>
>
Henri
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
My advise in this situation is to take it to the dealer
or Brake Shop ASAP. It is a moot
point to debate what it might be if we read
about you in the obits. How are the pads" Is
one of them loose? It's
happened before believe it or not. The metal on metal noise is
NOT GOOD. Get
it looked at rather then seeking advise. Often brake shops do
free
inspections and give you a free estimate.
Best
Darc
Hi Henri;
As Chris noted, Bozz makes (pricey) extraction
scoops (heat extraction isn't a bad
idea), and at least one member, Todd
Shelton, has forward facing ram type scoops where
these shock tower
"blisters" bolt on. Visit his homepage (don't have it handy)...are
you
out here Todd?
Best
Darc
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hi Henri;
>
> idea), and at least one member, Todd
Shelton, has forward facing ram
> type scoops where
> these shock
tower "blisters" bolt on. Visit his homepage (don't have
> it
handy)...are you
> out here Todd?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> I'm wondering if there's a way to change /
transform these
> cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we have on the bonnet
?
Email Henry Yam of RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net> and
ask
about BOZZ Speed's Bonnet scoops. They look like stock but have vents
in
the rear of the scoops to allow for heat to escape. Look pretty
damn
sweet too.
> My advise in this situation is to take it to the
dealer or Brake Shop ASAP.
I second Darcys advice ! It sounds to me that you do
have a worn bearing on one
side and therefore one of the pads (inner/outer)
is worn down more than the
other (and mye angeled out).
Good luck,
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 11:04:53
1999
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Re: Team3S: Paint and cooling question
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> of the same car, and electronically changed the
color, and I kinda like the
> result....any comments ??
Do it ! Even the black paint on them starts fading as
the salt on our roads does
really bad to them :(
> Even if
it's still cold here (was snowing this morning....sorry Roger, bad
> news,
Ca weather was better) I noticed that the underhood temperature is
>
HIGH....
Nooo, I don't want to come back (but I want to drive a
normal car again).
The scoops are already lined out and unfortunately they
are too expensive in my
point of view.
Another idea is to remove the
rubber-strip up on the firewall that seals the
hood. It can be easily be
removed and should help to extract the heat (and helps
to get the ice off the
windscreen, hehe). I'm not sure if this produces a
positive pressure
situation on high speeds (like an induction hood) but it's
worth to try this
out. I'll try to do this next week with all the temp meters I
have handy for
comparison.
Regards,
Roger
Some people have too much money!
96 R/T TT
91 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 11:38:29
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To:
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Subject:
Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:38:21
-0600
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Does anyone know if the hood insulation from
Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
Dodge('91RT/TT). i.e. are the hoods the
same.
I want to replace my insulation and Dodge wants $70 I
think that I can get
it from Mitsu for $40-$45.
Thanks,
Trevor James wrote:
For the car enthusiast who has(or whose friends have)
WAAAAAAAY to much money! Yeah
it's cool, but WHY!?!?
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth
R/T Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 12:06:49
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: You guys have got to see this!
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:06:45
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If it is 1/4 scale, why doesn't it put out 112.5
HP? ;-) Weak!
-Matt
They are essentially the same car in the first
generation with different wings and
different front air dams. The insulation
should be identical. Let us know what it like
when received (folded, cracked,
etc) and if instalation is simple. This is one of the
manufacturing flaws
with these cars>>>they should have extended the aluminum
heat
protector more so that this insulation didn't peel off from
heat.
Best
Darc
> Does anyone know if the hood insulation from
Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
> Dodge('91RT/TT). i.e. are the hoods the
same.
>
> I want to replace my insulation and Dodge wants $70 I
think that I can get
> it from Mitsu for $40-$45.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 12:39:45
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:40:43
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I replaced the hood insulation on my 92 Dodge RT/T with
a part received from
Mitsubishi. The fit was perfect. I received
it in a large box without any
damage to the unit. Make sure you keep
the mounting clips.
>
>> Does anyone know if the hood
insulation from Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
>> Dodge('91RT/TT).
i.e. are the hoods the same.
>>
>> I want to replace my
insulation and Dodge wants $70 I think that I can
get
>> it from
Mitsu for $40-$45.
>
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 12:43:49
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<< Does anyone know if the hood insulation from
Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
Dodge('91RT/TT). i.e. are the hoods the
same.
I want to replace my insulation and Dodge wants $70 I
think that I can get
it from Mitsu for
$40-$45.
Thanks,
Mark
'91RT/
>>
*************Mark,
It is the same part, get the Mitsu
brand.
Wayne 3SI
#87
'91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Actually it's just about what it should be. Aince it's
1/4 scale we divide
be 4^3 (three dimensions): 450 HP / 4^3 = ~7
HP
Also, take the volume of the full scale v10 (488 CID)
and divide by 4^3, and
we get ~7.6 CID
450HP / 488 CID = .92 HP/CID
7 HP / 7.6 CID = .92
HP/CID
At first I also thought, why not 112.5 HP? But then
when I thought about it
more, they really meant 1/4 scale!
omar
92 r/t
-----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Friday, March 19, 1999 11:04 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint and cooling question
<snip>
Another idea is to
remove the rubber-strip up on the firewall that seals the
hood. It can be
easily be removed and should help to extract the heat (and
helps
to get
the ice off the windscreen, hehe). I'm not sure if this produces a
positive
pressure situation on high speeds (like an induction hood) but it's
worth to
try this out. I'll try to do this next week with all the temp
meters
I
have handy for comparison.
Regards,
Roger
=====================================
Roger...
Please post your results on before and after removing
the firewall
weather-strip. I've tried it and it seems like there's a
difference, but my
experience is entirely subjective.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 14:24:36
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:28:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Non-Performance Tech Question
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Hi guys,
I have been lurking of late
but I seem to have a problem. The
engine compartment light does not
work. I tried a new bulb and that
does not seem to work either...anyhow,
should I get a new part or is
there another thing I neglected???? BTW, what
is the part# for a 1st
3KGT foglight???? Is it a H3, or H@ or H1???
TIA.
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 14:45:54
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Try turnibg on your parking lights, it's the only way
mine will come on.
-----Original Message-----
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, March 19, 1999 4:30 PM
Subject: Team3S: Non-Performance Tech
Question
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 15:27:59
1999
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Frank,
Somebody else hit it on the head. You have to turn on
the parking lights
(at least) to get it to come on. The salesman who
sold me my car said
that was a feature and evidence that the Stealth was a
smart car: the
light doesn't come on until you need it (as evidenced by the
fact that
you have your other lights on ;-)
Regards,
Lynn
PS Do you know the difference between a car salesman
and a software
salesman??? The car salesman knows when he is
lying to you.
Frank Chen wrote:
>
> Hi
guys,
> I have been lurking of late but I seem to have a
problem. The
> engine compartment light does not work. I tried a new
bulb and that
> does not seem to work either...anyhow, should I get a new
part or is
> there another thing I neglected???? BTW, what is the part#
for a 1st
> 3KGT foglight???? Is it a H3, or H@ or H1???
TIA.
>
-Frank-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 17:58:12
1999
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Cheap power
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I keep hearing about a simple way of getting horsepower
by
installing a $2 aquarium valve somewhere in the turbo
system.
Can anyone elaborate further on this?
Where does it go?
What does it do?
Got any
pictures?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 17:58:13
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Dropping the pipes
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I have found someone who might be able to fabricate an
exhaust system
without worrying about certain niggling little
rules.
If he agrees, I'm going to have him gut my precats,
remove the cat, and
build a new exhaust system.
I'll store the old
exhaust, cat and all, in case my state invokes annual
emission
inspections.
Question: Will gutting and removing the cats do
anything nasty? I know I
might get flames out the back, but are there any
other problems to worry
about?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 18:53:53
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 18:57:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Non-Performance Tech Question
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_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 19:11:19
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:10:55
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>I have found someone who might be able to fabricate
an exhaust system
>without worrying about certain niggling little
rules.
>If he agrees, I'm going to have him gut my precats, remove the
cat, and
>build a new exhaust system.
>I'll store the old exhaust,
cat and all, in case my state invokes annual
emission
inspections.
>Question: Will gutting and removing the cats do anything
nasty? I know I
might get flames out the back, but are there any other
problems to worry
about.
In particular, I wonder what the oxygen sensors
will
read and what the ECU will do with the information.
Regards,
ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 19:40:04
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: dyno test conditions
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:27:53
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Question for Roger, Jim or Mike
I plan on trying to run my car on the Huntington Beach,
ca AWD
dyno again [ first test resulted in dyno failure ]. I would like
to
know what gear they tested your cars in. When they set up my
car
for the aborted test they were using 2nd gear [ 80 mph at redline
].
While this is probably suitable for HP it must give a lower
drivetrain
loss figure. Wheel speed, differential and driveshafts are all
being
driven at a lower rate.
Jim
Berry
------93
"arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 19:43:20
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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999
21:43:00 -0600
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
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>
>
>In particular, I wonder what the
oxygen sensors will
>read and what the ECU will do with the
information.
>Regards, ptg
I was going to preserve the oxygen sensor in the rear
precat.
Are you wondering about anything else?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 20:08:08
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:08:13
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As long as the sensor is hot enough, and I don't see
why it wouldn't be just
as hot with or without the pre-cats, it will read no
differently than if all
were stock. Can't think of any reason why it
won't work as before.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
<snip>
> >Question: Will gutting and removing the cats
do anything nasty? I know I
> might get flames out the back, but are there
any other problems to worry
> about.
>
>
> In
particular, I wonder what the oxygen sensors will
> read and what the ECU
will do with the information.
> Regards, ptg
>
> Rich/old
poop/plural champion/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 20:33:03
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cheap power
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Merritt wrote:
> getting horsepower installing a
$2 aquarium valve in turbo system.
> Where does it go?
On the vacuum/pressure hose going from the boost
control solenoid, down
to the wastgates.
> What does it do?
Vents partial pressure away from reaching the wastegate
actuators,
thereby delaying opening the wastegates until a higher SOURCE
(manifold)
pressure is reached; this increases boost from stock
settings.
Not as elegant or as easily/precisely controllable in-cockpit
as
electronic boost controller, and does entail a slower
boost
spoolup-to-final-value than electronic (a very minor amount) but
works
and ultracheap.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 21:12:06
1999
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From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: disableing the factory alarm
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:12:01
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Hi guys...another problem (two actually)
1. I
jsut has arty's old stock turbo's put on my stealth, but Im
guessing the
reject mechanics reconnected the factory alarm or
something. After I
shut the engine off, the blickers and interior and
dash lights start to
blick once every 5 or so seconds...a low
blink...and the engine will crank
over, but it won't fire up. Im
guessing this is the factory "anti
theft" system or something. Is there
any way of diableing it (a fuse to
pull, or wires to disconnect) I don't
wish to use the alarm, or to even have
it in the car, so if it means
cutting wires and rippig stuff out...so be
it.
2. I seem to have a striped shaft or something in
the transfer case.
when the power hits in the first three gears, the
car seems to me like
the driveshaft is becomeing disconnected from the
tranny (the machanic
told me the "one of your 4wd shafts is striped, so
it's only fwd
now"...I thought he was just trying to piss me off or
something becuase
when I brought the car in he thought I was going to be a
pushover kid
(im in college for Automotive Engineering) anyway...when
this happens,
I get a "burning" smell comig from the AC vents, and
the car feels like
something is "striped, but accasionally
catching" and I get a bucking
sensation....definatly driveline
probs...the rear of the car will
vibrate a little..like wheel hop, but
that's not it.
Are the transfer cases rebuildable? does mistu
sell the parts
individually? Anyone have this problem? Am I
screwed?
Nathan Crisman
91 Talon AWD (16g, FMIC, going faster)
92
Stealth TT (shift before 4000rpm in 1,2,3 or it really sucks!)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 21:42:32
1999
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Date:
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: Cheap power
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> I keep hearing about a simple way of getting
horsepower by
> installing a $2 aquarium valve somewhere in the turbo
system.
Cheap when watching some rules ! Goto my website and
see under Turbo-Basics for
more details :)
Regards,
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 21:42:36
1999
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: dyno test conditions
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Hey James,
> I would like to know what gear they tested your
cars in. When they set up my
> car for the aborted test they were using
2nd gear [ 80 mph at redline ].
A dyno run should be done in the most possible 1:1
gear. But it depends on the
dyno as the ones we use measure the loss that is
different in the gears. This
finally "should" give you the same
results. Unfortunately, a run in 3rd resulted
in more power on mine car and
we think that this was due the winter tires
slipping and almost glowing
away.
> While this is probably suitable for HP it must
give a lower drivetrain
> loss figure. Wheel speed, differential and
driveshafts are all being
> driven at a lower rate.
I'm pretty sure that the dyno must first be
"driven in". Therefore, they don't
wanted to run it up high up to
170mph through all the gears to find out what
power/torque you have on what
speed.
As you have about the same G-Tech results as my 93 you
should be able to run in
4th the same amount of power. But make sure that the
car is getting enough cold,
fresh air to simulate as good as possible the
real ambient. We had low ambient
temps with the hood open and got therefore
an accurate ambient as when the hood
is down and the K&N sucks
engine-heated air in. Please also try to find out more
about the make and
software release.
Kind Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 21:42:40
1999
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> I was going to preserve the oxygen sensor in the
rear precat.
You must keep both in, otherwise the ECU may give you
an error code and the
system may selects the low-octane fuel MAP for the safe
way. You'll not have any
problem with gutted cats but we currently don't know
how the tourque will be
affected in the lower rpm. Anyways, maybe the small
turbos will not gain from
this while bigger ones will definitely
!
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 22:17:55
1999
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Team3S: Interesting explanation by Garrett on turbos & operating
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 19 23:52:41
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Team3S: Water Injection update
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Dear power-seekers :)
A week ago I got in contact with a technical/sales
person at Aquamist, UK and
asked some questions, especially regarding a Group
Purchase.
Let me recap : Water injection is an old known way to
prevent detonation while
increasing boost introduced during the second world
war to provide the fighter
aircrafts with much more power for some minutes.
Some years ago, as the
technique became more sophisticated, water injection
found it's way back to race
cars, especially Turbo cars that where known for
a lot power but not a long
life. Finally the system became that perfect that
some factory cars, like the
Ford Cosworth XR-4 where delivered with teh
system already attached.
Now, we all know that the TT engine in our cars tend to
get detonation very
early due to the high temps in the combustion chamber.
Increasing the amount of
fuel helps to cool it down but the mixture becomes
way too rich and power is
wasted. Also to do this, the stock fuel system must
be modified as the injectors
start to max out just after 1.00 bars (dependant
on the ambient) and the fuel
pump runs out of steam too.
Yeah, yu knew this already so here the latest infos I
got from ERL:
> Spraying fuel upstream will prevent detonation,
but you need a great deal
> of it for your cars. Alternatively, water is a
great deal and more effective
> than fuel and it will not affect your A/F
ratio and may even allow you to
> run 1.1-1.2, or even higher without add
changing new and bigger injectors.
> See the following
links:
>
> Sport Compact Car Magazine (Mike Kojima)
> http://www.se-r.net/about/200sx/scc/feb99/water_injection.html
>
>
SAAB press release:
> http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/coollinks3/index/rally/saab/press/press.html
>
>
Both of the above examples are using water effectively and can be used as
a
> guide for your water injection tuning. Eventually, you will
require more
> fuel in order to run more boost should your pistons allow
it. But meanwhile,
> you should be able to improve your detonation
resistance limits.
> Make sure you purchase a system with a
"race" pump.
Well, they do not sell the normal pump anymore, so only
the Racing System
(bigger pump) is available.
> It would be interested to know at what boost level
and power you can
> achieve at your present set up.
Hehe, sure and that's why I do this upgrade in steps
and before adding the new
fuel system.
> You need to GP purchase 10 systems (mixed) for 15%
discount of list and the
> next break will be 25% over 25 units (maximum
discount).
Unfortunately, they are not able to send the System 1
or 2 directly to all
participants from the UK due to the shipping costs but
they would send all of
them to an address in the US where it then must be
distributed. Even more it
doesn't make sense when I'd distribute them as
shipping them from Switzerland is
as expensive as from the UK.
The list prices are :
System 1 (Race pump) GBP
307.80
System 2 (Race pump) GBP 556.20
Of course the systems can be upgraded with the
different parts. Also there is a
new, cheaper System 2 available but I
haven't got yet an explanation about this.
My schedule is to install the system within the next
weeks but I've not yet
decided if I should start with the System 1 or
directly with System 2. Also I
can't get the lower price if I'm not ordering
within a group purchase.
So, everybody who's interested please e-mail me
privately at
robby@swissonline.ch
for more details. Of course the topic itselfs is open for
discussion on the
list.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 00:30:27
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Subject: RE:
Team3S: Water Injection update
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 09:31:59
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Hehe, turns out that Mike Kojima, Jim Wold and Clark
Steppler are personal
friends.
I'll check what they think about this setup
(for a 300ZX and a 3S).
I'll keep you informed
Henri
aarrgggl, sorry, il was supposed to be a PRIVATE
response....
Damm outlook.....
Henri
Hehe, turns out that Mike Kojima, Jim Wold and
Clark Steppler are personal
friends.
I'll check what they think about this
setup (for a 300ZX and a 3S).
I'll keep you informed
Henri
On a side note, since I live in central Florida, and
winter here is
Jan.28th from 4-10 pm, would removing the insulation be bad? I
obviously
don't need it to warm anything up, and do you guys think it
would help
dissapate the extreme heat here? I'm going to remove
the
weatherstripping at the back of the bay, near the firewall, and do
you
think I should remve the insulation too?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 07:45:37
1999
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Team3S: HKS Performance & Show parts etc 4 sale
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All performance parts are 100% PERFECT in every
way.
.
HKS Cosmos high performance in tank fuel pump upgrade $300.00
BO
Cartech Fuel pressure reg. $160.00
HKS Twin Intercoolers (sugg retail $1595.00)
$950.00
6 HKS 550cc balanced injectors (sugg retail
$1890.00) $1000.00 or BO
Twin TEC 15G turbos (these are 100% PERFECT)
$1500.
18"x 8.5" Chrome 6 spoke VR4 factory rims w
center cap set of 4 $1200.00
4 Mich Pilot 245/40/ZR18 SXMXX3 Set of
4 wheels & tires $1600.00 or BO
Selling a Very High "Show Quality"
Plenum with a true Mirror finish.
Will sell for $500.00 with core
exchange or BO
Other available parts from a 91 VR-4
Full interior
available (Beige leather) Power driver & pass seats $450 or BO
Front
& Rear Active Aero
Air cond unit, Stock CD player
Hi Michael;
Although it sounds like a good idea (and may be), it
may also introduce an inordinate
amount of heat on the paint in that
area.
What someone needs to do,( and I have been trying to
figure out who to contact) is
design a vented insert (with a cutout template
included in the kit) that we set into the
back of our shocker tower blisters
for heat extraction. Something classy with louvers to
prevent rain getting
in. This would negate buying the expensive Bozz extractors and
people could
modify their own shock tower covers. I suspect their would be a good
market
for it and wish I had the setup to do it. It has to be classy,
and functional to
succeed. The idea is free..any takers? Things done well
(like the recent 3S CD) do have
a market.
Best
Darc
Michael Booker wrote:
> Jan.28th from 4-10 pm, would removing the
insulation be bad?
snip
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 08:19:57
1999
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Nathan;
Sounds like transfer case/stripped spline
problems....better than a tranny...talk to
Brad, he has one for a 92 I was
eying up for a spare.
But before you jump the gun, get a second opinion. Your
mechanic doesn't sound all that
knowledgeable if he manged to give you an
interior light show with his turbo
instalation.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 08:20:49
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Team3S: System disabler
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Hi Team;
Has anyone installed or had installed, a disabler which
prevents the car
from being hot wired/stolen? I know most of the new vehicles
on the
market now have them built into the ignition system. No key, it
won't
go, and sets off an alarm to boot. Is there any reasonable
aftermarket
product out there we can use that'll do approximately the same
thing?
Price?
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 08:41:03
1999
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel Cut
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:32:28
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I did the MAS mod. I took the small streightener
out. It did help with
fuel cut, but made the car idle bad. I
found my cut was mostly on cold
days (more dense air). Also reset the ECU
(remove the battery cables for 20
minutes). Fuel cut will come back
but it takes it longer. Seems it
doesn't learn the fuel cut thing for
a few good runs :)
Brian
Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front window
whenever my SPI boost
guage hits 18psi. Is there anyway to get rid of
this or is ECU
reprogramming the only way? I know that in my Talon that
I had last year
a guuted Mass Air Sensor and a few other free be tricks
eliminated this.
I know that is not a good idea on these cars but does anyone
have any
other ideas?
Del
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With the help of Michael Booker and others, I believe I
now have a
complete picture of the transmissions to be found in our cars
according
to the type of car. It is fairly straight forward, so I don't
know why
it seemed so difficult at the outset. To summarize:
All Turbo charged cars have Getrag transmission:
earlier turbo cars have
5-spd Getrags and later model turbo cars have 6-spd
Getrags. (There have
been rumors of turbos with automatics [from the
factory], but, to my
knowledge, nobody has been able to confirm or document
this.)
All Non-Turbo cars have Mitsu build transmissions in
either the 5-spd
manual or automatic form.
This started with the question of "why shouldn't a
NA DOHC engine be
modified to produce more HP?" With the answer
"because the
transmissions won't stand up to much more."
Somebody added, astutely,
that it might not be the transmission itself,
rather it is because
(paraphrased) the running gear of a FWD is by nature
lightly built and
would be the area most stressed by large increases in
power.
As the saying goes: "A word to the wise is
sufficient."
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 08:52:38
1999
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brakes
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:44:02 -0500
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This is a strange problem. I know what he's
talking about but I don't have
a fix. It happens on my car every once
in a while. I'll turn into a gas
station and hit the brakes right as I
turn and the brakes almost go out.
It's like the brake lines get
crimped or something. It makes a ugly noise.
It seems to only happen
when you turn real sharp and hit the brakes at the
same time. I've
taken my car to autocrosses and never had it happen . It
might be only
at lower speeds.?
Brian
I second Darcys advice ! It sounds to me that you do
have a worn bearing on
one
side and therefore one of the pads
(inner/outer) is worn down more than the
other (and mye angeled
out).
Good luck,
Roger
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I knew a guy in Tampa that had some made with a
forward facing scoop. They
seemed to help. If you do the forward
facing ones it might be good to take
the rear gasket that runs along the
back of the engine compartment off.
This would help get more of the
hot air out if you forcing air in. The
ones he had made cost about
$200 but look awesome. I wish I had a pic :(
Brian
Hi Henri;
As Chris noted, Bozz makes (pricey) extraction
scoops (heat extraction
isn't a bad
idea), and at least one member, Todd
Shelton, has forward facing ram type
scoops where
these shock tower
"blisters" bolt on. Visit his homepage (don't have it
handy)...are
you
out here Todd?
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 08:58:10
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: System disabler
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Darc,
This is not exactly what you are asking about, but my
alarm system has a
fuel cut off hidden on the fuel line, so that if the alarm
is set off it
shuts off the fuel. An electronic stop would likely be
bypassed by a
hot wire, but with this they may get the car started, but they
won't get
far. I believe the alarm guys said the fuel in the system
would not
last more than a mile at the outside. I think there are
several alarms
with this type of fuel shut off system.
Regards,
Lynn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 09:44:00
1999
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: affect of alignment on stability
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>From previous postings it seems that some of you
(e.g.- Barry King) have
done some experimenting with different wheel
alignments or at least have
a good understanding of how wheel alignment
affects handling and
stability. I would greatly appreciate your
comments on my problem
described below.
Lately I have become increasingly disappointed with the
handling of my
car, and I'm hoping a four-wheel alignment would remedy the
situation.
The car tracks straight and has moderate wander, pretty normal,
I
think. But in the corners it seems to oversteer excessively,
especially
when I lift off the throttle (to the point where I find
myself
countersteering to avoid a spinout, sometimes to an
uncomfortable
degree). Past experience has taught me that in a hard
corner, my car
will tend to understeer under acceleration and oversteer
when
decelerating, but now things seem to have shifted more towards
the
oversteer end of the spectrum. Also, the car feels less stable in
long
sweeping high speed bends on the Autobahn than it used to, especially
in
the wet (I get a kind of floating, sliding sensation, definitely not
on
rails). Today I was following a new 911 on such a bend at about 140
mph
and it sure looked a lot more stable than my car felt. I have
tried
rotating the tires and always make sure they are warmed up
before
testing things out. I do not recall hitting anything that might
have
knocked things out of adjustment and tire wear is even (at least
half
the tread left on the Pilots after 25k miles) but I can't think
of
another explanation. Any suggestions?
Also, this may or may not be related, but my
outer-right brake pad is
wearing down more quickly than the other. The
calipers move smoothly
and do not appear to be sticking.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
>Lately I have become increasingly disappointed with
the handling of my
>car, <snip> in the corners it seems to oversteer
excessively, especially
>when I lift off the throttle (to the point where
I find myself
>countersteering to avoid a spinout, sometimes to an
uncomfortable
>degree).
Sounds like low tire pressure in the rears. I run 44 in
front and 38 in the
rear in my Michelins
when on track. It corners
neutral, even when entering a turn at 125. It may
be that as your tires are
aging, they require different tire pressures. Try
the old autocross technique
of chalking your sidewalls to see if they are
rolling under.
>
>Also, this may or may not be related, but
my outer-right brake pad is
>wearing down more quickly than the
other. The calipers move smoothly
>and do not appear to be
sticking.
Try bleeding the brakes. I had the same problem (same
pad, too), and it
turned out to be air in the caliper.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 10:06:43
1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brakes
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 12:05:26 -0600
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On the VR4's.
You have two sensors on the front wheels that measure
the speed of the tires
for ABS reasons.
The ABS computer thinks one wheel is partially
locking when you make a
turn, thus setting off the ABS actuator
(Pumping the brakes)
While this is not entirely normal, it is not uncommon
for multi-channel ABS
systems. I would suggest cleaning your ABS sensor and
exciter ring. You may
have metal stuck to the magnet causing a slightly
false signal.
This is a strange problem. I know what he's
talking about but I don't have
a fix. It happens on my car every once
in a while. I'll turn into a gas
station and hit the brakes right as I
turn and the brakes almost go out.
It's like the brake lines get crimped or
something. It makes a ugly noise.
It seems to only happen when you turn real
sharp and hit the brakes at the
same time. I've taken my car to
autocrosses and never had it happen . It
might be only at lower
speeds.?
Brian
I second Darcys advice ! It sounds to me that you do
have a worn bearing on
one
side and therefore one of the pads
(inner/outer) is worn down more than the
other (and mye angeled
out).
Good luck,
Roger
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 13:32:39
1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 15:32:31
-0600
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if ever should it rain, the rain will most likely boil
off the hood if
you've been running long and hard and let the car sit for a
while. i don't
think you want that :)
Omar
92 r/t
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Michael Booker
> Sent: Saturday, March 20, 1999 9:09 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
>
>
> On a
side note, since I live in central Florida, and winter here is
> Jan.28th
from 4-10 pm, would removing the insulation be bad? I obviously
> don't
need it to warm anything up, and do you guys think it would help
>
dissapate the extreme heat here? I'm going to remove the
>
weatherstripping at the back of the bay, near the firewall, and do you
>
think I should remve the insulation too?
>
> Matt
> 3/Si
#311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 15:00:18
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 16:59:48
-0600
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>As long as the sensor is hot enough, and I don't
see why it wouldn't be
just
>as hot with or without the pre-cats, it
will read no differently than if
all
>were stock. Can't think of
any reason why it won't work as before.
Barry-
If the cats are there (and working), wouldn't they
create
a lot of heat that the oxygen sensors might need to
work
properly? Also, if they detect the amountof oxygen
in the exaust, won't
this be really screwed up by the different amount of
oxygen in the exhaust
that results
from not having the catyalist there to do it's
thing?
Regards, ptg
>> >Question: Will gutting and removing the
cats do anything nasty? I know I
>> might get flames out the back, but
are there any other problems to worry
>> about.
In particular, I wonder what the oxygen sensors
will
read and what the ECU will do with the information.
Regards,
ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 15:01:16
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From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes
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It sounds like a sensor problem. If only during sharp
turns the
sensors think one wheel is out of speed phase with the rest
and
engages the ABS pump. It sounds like it's over modulating though.
I
had similar occurrences in my 93SL before the pump started going
south,
but my ABS light came on after. I would change the fluid, as
completely as
possible, and check the sensors to make sure they are
not out of alignment.
The dealer should be able to do this quick and
cheap. (sensor part) You might
also see if they have seen instances of
this before.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 15:06:54
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From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: affect of alignment on stability
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Sounds like your losing a wheel bearing. This will do
two things. Wear
your outer pad, and affect the camber or tracking. I would
have the
alignment done and pay attention to the toe in on the rear, this
will
give you the over steer you talk about. Is it doing this more one
way
than the other?
Also, what tire pressure are you running?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 15:51:35
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From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: affect of alignment on stability
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 15:49:53
-0800
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Question along the same vein...
I'm running the 32/28 that the car recommends but car
seems loose in
turns...
Last night in warm weather on try street I slid the car
for about three car
lengths right and then left on a fast on
ramp...
-Bill
Subject: Re: Team3S: affect of alignment on
stability
> Sounds like your losing a wheel bearing. This
will do two things. Wear
>
> Also, what tire pressure are you
running?
>
At 03:49 PM 3/20/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Question
along the same vein...
>
>I'm running the 32/28 that the car
recommends but car seems loose in
>turns...
When I ran my 94 VR4 at an autocross using stock
pressures, it rolled the
front tires under and scuffed 'em something fierce.
I have since gone to 44
front/38 rear for any kind of competition.
Check
your tires for evidence of sidewall scuffing. If so, you're not
running
enough pressure for the way you drive.
>
Rich/old poop>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 18:09:16
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 19:09:17
-0700
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> -----Original Message-----
> >As long as
the sensor is hot enough, and I don't see why it wouldn't be
>
just
> >as hot with or without the pre-cats, it will read no
differently than if
> all
> >were stock. Can't think of any
reason why it won't work as before.
>
> Barry-
>
> If
the cats are there (and working), wouldn't they create
> a lot of heat
that the oxygen sensors might need to
> work properly?
I don't think so. The oxygen sensors in most cars
need to be above 600 F to
operate properly. That'll happen with or
without the catalytic converter in
place. If not, then all those people
out there that gutted their pre-cats
would be having a lot more grief I would
think.
> Also, if they detect the amountof oxygen
>
in the exaust, won't this be really screwed up by the different amount
of
> oxygen in the exhaust that results
> from not having the
catyalist there to do it's thing?
No, or at least if this is true then noone else seems
to be talking about it
on other auto related techie lists ;)
The catalyst in the converter (usually some exotic
alloy -- I was told it
was titanium but I don't know for sure) really doesn't
affect the oxygen
content as seen by the sensor before the converter, so
gutting or replacing
the pre-cats should not affect the operation of the O2
sensor in any way.
You just want to be sure that all the O2 sensors are in
place and operating
and all should be well.
> Regards, ptg
Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 18:09:41
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Date:
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From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
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I'm not sure if this is useful but a place called
Casper electronics (847-247-0484)
makes O2 sensor simulators that spit out
the right resistance for the second set of O2's
to not set a code on OBDII
vehicles. Do the 94+ TT's have post cat O2 sensors? I first
heard about these
on OBDII Firebirds/Camaros that have post cat O2 sensors. If you
removed the
cats the ECU would see the same values for both the pre and post cat
O2
sensors and set a code.
Trevor
96 R/T TT (FIPK 13.52@101)
91 R/T TT
14.03@98 Stock
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 19:00:10
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 20:00:11
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Nifty trick.
California cars had the additional O2 sensors but I do
not know which year
they emerged, it may have been as early as '93
though. 49 state cars did
not have them in 93 or 94 for sure. My
'94 VR4 is a 49 state car and only
has the two sensors, not the redundant
downstream ones. I am not sure if or
when they showed up for ODBII but
I would guess they would have been
implemented by 1996 since that was the
year by which manufacturers had to be
ODBII compliant.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I'm not
sure if this is useful but a place called Casper
> electronics
(847-247-0484)
> makes O2 sensor simulators that spit out the right
resistance for
> the second set of O2's
> to not set a code on OBDII
vehicles. Do the 94+ TT's have post
> cat O2 sensors? I first
>
heard about these on OBDII Firebirds/Camaros that have post cat
> O2
sensors. If you
> removed the cats the ECU would see the same values for
both the
> pre and post cat O2
> sensors and set a
code.
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT (FIPK 13.52@101)
> 91 R/T
TT 14.03@98 Stock
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 19:08:01
1999
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Barry,
I believe it is platinum, although it doesn't change
your point.
Regards,
Lynn
Barry E. King wrote:
> The catalyst in the
converter (usually some exotic alloy -- I was told
> it was titanium but I
don't know for sure)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 19:37:40
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 20:37:36
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That was it! Platinum. I knew it had a num
in it.
Thanks for the info.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
Barry,
>
> I believe it is platinum, although it doesn't change
your point.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
>
> Barry E.
King wrote:
> > The catalyst in the converter (usually some exotic
alloy -- I was told
> > it was titanium but I don't know for
sure)
I was reading a sticker under the 96's hood today that
said that it was emissions
compliant in all 50 states. I know it was
purchased here in KS though...hmmmm?
Trevor
"Barry E. King" wrote:
> Nifty trick.
>
> California cars had
the additional O2 sensors but I do not know which year
> they emerged, it
may have been as early as '93 though. 49 state cars did
> not have
them in 93 or 94 for sure. My '94 VR4 is a 49 state car and only
>
has the two sensors, not the redundant downstream ones. I am not sure if
or
> when they showed up for ODBII but I would guess they would have
been
> implemented by 1996 since that was the year by which manufacturers
had to be
> ODBII compliant.
>
> Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 21:01:48
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: O2 sensor simulators
Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 22:01:45
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1996 was the year ODBII became official which means no
more 49 state +
California cars. All have the same emissions
standards.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I was
reading a sticker under the 96's hood today that said that
> it was
emissions
> compliant in all 50 states. I know it was purchased here in
KS
> though...hmmmm?
>
> Trevor
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 20 21:13:48
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From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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FYI on the "redundant" downstream (or
second) O2 sensor
OBDII uses the downstream O2 sensor to measure the
efficiency of the catalyst. The ECU
determines catalyst efficiency by
tracking sensor switches. A switch occurs when the O2
output voltage
changes due to a fuel rich to lean condition (as determined by amount
of
oxygen present in the exhaust). It is typical for our closed
loop system to switch
quite frequently (more than once every second) as the
ECU attempts to reach a stoich air
fuel mixture.
If the catalyst is doing its job, the downstream O2
sensor will rarely switch as the
exhaust coming out of the catalyst will not
vary much in oxygen content (cat collects
oxygen when available and then
releases it when needed to minimize emissions).
The OBDII system tracks the ratio of upstream vs
downstream counts (switches) to
determine catalyst efficiency. When the
ratio approaches one, the catalyst is
determined defective triggering your
dash light to illuminate.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 TT Stealth
Ron Thompson wrote:
>
> Sounds like
you['re] losing a wheel bearing. This will do two things. Wear
> your
outer pad, and affect the camber or tracking. I would have the
> alignment
done and pay attention to the toe in on the rear, this will
> give you the
over steer you talk about. Is it doing this more one way
> than the
other?
At times I think it may be worse in left turns, but if
there is a
difference it's subtle. Can I check all four bearings by
simply jacking
up the wheels and checking for play, or is there more to
it?
Merritt wrote:
>
> Sounds like low
tire pressure in the rears. I run 44 in front and 38 in the
> rear in my
Michelins
> when on track. It corners neutral, even when entering a turn
at 125. It may
> be that as your tires are aging, they require different
tire pressures. Try
> the old autocross technique of chalking your
sidewalls to see if they are
> rolling under.
I'm just the recommended pressures front and
rear. I will try the chalk
idea and check for scuffing. Then I
will try higher pressures and see
if it makes a difference. But isn't
that going to cause excessive wear
in the center of the tread? What
pressures do you run on a daily basis?
I'm hoping it isn't pressure or a bearing, rather
just an alignment
problem. Barry King's post about having an alignment
that allows him to
take 90 degree turns at 60 mph seems to imply that this
can make a big
difference! Of course better tires and suspension would
also help...
:-)
> >Also, this may or may not be related, but
my outer-right brake pad is
> >wearing down more quickly than the
others. The calipers move smoothly
> >and do not appear to be
sticking.
>
> Try bleeding the brakes. I had the same problem (same
pad, too), and it
> turned out to be air in the caliper.
This is likely the problem, since it apparently started
happening after
installation the stainless steel brake lines last fall.
That corner may
not
have been bled properly (it was the first one
done). Thanx for the
info!!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
Jim,
1. You bet it will make the centers wear faster. I
absolutely ruined a
good set of Toyos exactly like this.
2. I would rather have the bearing go out as they are
much easier and
cheaper to fix than the alignment. I also have an
inherent distrust of
alignment places; I would find frame shop with a REALLY
good reputation
for alignments.
Regards,
Lynn
Matthews wrote:
1.
> Then I will try higher
pressures and see if it makes a difference.
> But isn't that going to
cause excessive wear in the center of the
> tread? What pressures do
you run on a daily basis?
>
2.
> I'm hoping it isn't pressure or
a bearing, rather just an alignment
> problem. Barry King's post
about having an alignment that allows him
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Well the reason I say to stay away from them is because
of plenty of
ruined ones in the cars of around 7or 8 of my friends. All
all wheel
drive cars and two of them being 3000's or Stealths. The
C.F.D.F. clutch
just cannot take the abuse of higher RPM launches.
Their pressure plate
is essentially stock and the disk is also pretty darn
close to stock.
Just different friction materials. This clutch is good
for FWD mildly
modded cars, but not AWD. Seven of my friends currently
are running
A.C.T. clutches in their AWD cars. They now swear by
them. They
previously used clutches from Centerforce, RPS, O.S.
Geiken,
Clutchmasters, and Exedy.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
Matthews wrote: [snips]
> problem: car
tracks straight; in corners oversteers excessively, esp. on
> lift off
throttle, I countersteer to avoid spinout.
> now thing shift more
toward oversteer; feels less stable in long
> sweeping high speed bends
esp; I get floating, sliding sensation.
> Tried rotating tires, made sure
warm before
> testing. I don't recall hitting anything to knock out
alignment; tire wear is even
> Pilots 25k miles. Suggestions?
> outer-right brake pad wearing down more quickly than other.
calipers move smoothly,
> do not appear to be sticking.
>
Jim
First step should be a four wheel alignment, go to good
shop or Mits
dealer with computer readout, get to stock specs. Usually
I'd say go a
little more neg camber up front, but if oversteer is problem
that would
make it worse.
Have dealer check suspension and
bushings.
Have dealer check the "all wheel steering" system for
proper function,
there is technique to doing this. If that was doing
its 1.5 degree
adjustment at inappropriate times or was loose, that could
make such
symptoms.
I doubt brakes are problem in THIS complaint, as if
dragging would be a
constant behavior, not waggly, and if turns smoothly not
first on my
list of suspects...
I will be very interested in your
results, I have noted this exact
behavior on another car. Let us
know!
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 11:40:34
1999
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Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
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You guys have been talking about getting the heat out
of the engine
compartment and how expensive the Bozz extraction scoops
are. Well, I
just saw another approach thanks to Del Kolasinski's
contribution on
brakes. I went to check out wisc.dsm.org and on this
page
http://www.destyne.com/wiscdsm/members/aaron_eckhart.html
saw another
approach. The owner has put some slits in the shock tower
blisters that
look kind of like shark gills. It looks pretty good in
the picture.
Guys name is Aaron Eckhart. Aaron, you out there?? wonder if it
helps.
Del do you know anything about Aaron's mod?
Regards,
Lynn
Omar Malik wrote:
>
> if ever should it
rain, the rain will most likely boil off the hood if
> you've been running
long and hard and let the car sit for a while. i
> don't
> think you
want that :)
>
> Omar
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I've seen a lot of people posting information regarding
hood scoops and
airflow. And it brought up something which one of my friends
with an
researching a hood for his MX-6 was looking into. Forward facing
hood
scoops would produce airflow into the engine bay, but would't it
effect
laminar flow over the hood if it was aerdynamically shaped?
Another
thing would be, what are you attempting to achieve. By placing a
forward
facing hood scoop, you would be drawing air into the engine bay,
but
wouldn't this air slam right into airflow which is being drawn into
the
engine bay by the open fascia of the front end? I recently looked at
an
article in a Japanese OPTION magazine where they discuss designs on
hood
vents and such. They basically talk about how the rear open vents
are
used to draw air out which would accelerate airflow through the
car.
Basically it would also depend on how your fans are designed, whether
or
not they are PUSH or PULL types of fans. Wouldn't having rear
facing
vents create a vaccum within the engine bay and effectively pull
air
out, thereby drawing in more air within the front?
> At times I think it may be worse in left turns,
but if there is a
> difference it's subtle. Can I check all four
bearings by simply jacking
> up the wheels and checking for play, or is
there more to it?
You will also need to spin the tire some, but you will
need to have
all four wheels off the ground so as not to screw up the
viscous
couplings. Check for grinding or drag on the bearing.
Jack brought out important points on the alignment.
Find someone
really good. My suspension mechanic uses a 4 wheel 'Hunter'
alignment
rack. He does all four wheels at he same time. Each change reads
out
on a screen at the front and a remote display he keeps with him.
The
most important adjustments for you are the rear toe in and camber.
I
wouldn't go negative camber unless you have a ton of money to throw
at
tires. My 96 was in negative camber when I bought it and it
had
noticeable outer tire wear at 2200 miles. Also get the AWS checked.
If
it isn't doing it's 1.5 degree turn correct it will play havoc
with
over steer. The bushings are also a possibility. Yes I'm
repeating
what Jack said, it is all good information.
I wouldn't think going higher on tire pressure would be
good for
street use. 44 psi sounds good for track but I wouldn't want to
eat
the centers of my tires up on the street. You can safely go up
some,
1-3 PSI, from stock depending on what you're driving style
is.
Remember these are cold pressure measurements, not hot after
you've
been driving on them, and try several gauges as I have seen a
wide
variance in readings. If you are under pressure you will get side
wall
roll, and you could find yourself dismounting a tire
unexpectedly.
This will give you some real serious over steer.
I always check my cars stability by weaving it at about
30, 40, & 50
MPH to check that it hasn't developed any bad habits that
have gone
un-noticed. I look for body roll, how the weight and
direction
transfers, and very short quick flicks of the wheel to make sure
the
nose points the new direction, not just rocks the suspension.
What
would most concern me in your case, is the rear tracking in sync
with
the rest of the car or is it sort of delayed? Your should be able
to
feel the difference at 40 MPH when the rear steering kicks in and
it
should feel as though it's tracking better. If it still feels like
it's
lagging or delayed in follow through, you are out of adjustment.
It would
most likely be tracking or toe in, if there are no worn or
broken parts.
(steering, bushings) You should be able to check the
bushing condition
visually. Look for evidence of play, you may not be
able physically to make
them move but you should be able to see if
they have flexed excessively in
their mountings or if they show
cracking. Also check the stabilizer bars and
bushings. You could also
be losing your rear shocks effectiveness. If they
are wearing out you
are losing traction.
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Team3S: AVC-R installation...
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Hi all,
I'm looking for a hand in installing
my new Apexi AVC-R boost controller. I've looked
at the walk through
for the Blitz DSBC, but unfortunately the two are not similar enough
for me
to make up for my lack of knowledge in this area. Basically, I'm just
wondering
what hoses I need to tap into. Naturally, the illustrations
look far different then
under my hood. It looked like the DSBC was
pretty simple, just tap into the hose going
into the y-pipe. Well,
going by the AVC-R illustrations it's kinda difficult for me to
make a
determination as to what and where these hoses are on my car. It also
looks like
I need to remove and not use the stock BOV altogether, is this
correct? I've got the
pages from the manual scanned in, and published
on my page, would anyone mind taking a
look? Consequently, the bulk of
the instructions are in the first scan, feel free to
read through them.
It looks like it won't take long at all, once I just figure out what
to tap
into.
thanks in advance,
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 16:00:33
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation...
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 17:00:40
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> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi
all,
> I'm looking for a hand in installing my new Apexi AVC-R
boost
> controller.
<snip>
> Basically, I'm just wondering
> what hoses I
need to tap into. Naturally, the illustrations look
> far different
then under my hood.
<snip>
> Well, going by the AVC-R illustrations
it's
> kinda difficult for me to
> make a determination as to what
and where these hoses are on my
> car.
> It also looks like
> I need to remove and
not use the stock BOV altogether, is this
> correct?
The AVC-R does not require you to do anything to the
stock bypass valve.
Once you have located and identified the correct hoses,
installation is
really quite straight forward but it can be confusing first
time through.
Just go slowly and understand what is there and it will fall
into place.
I will attempt to describe the hoses and connections
required.
There is a hose that runs from the rear of the intake
plenum through the
bunch of metal connectors on the throttle body then to the
firewall. This
is the fuel pressure regulator sense line. This is
typically where
boostgauges are tapped into using a T connector. You
will need to tap into
this hose for the AVC-R pressure sensor.
The AVC-R solenoied has three openings. One goes
to atmosphere. The other
two ("NO" and "COM") are
tapped into the stock system. First we'll deal
weith the "NO"
connection.
Locate the hose attached to the back of the intake
Y-pipe elbow. Follow the
line from the Y-pipe to where it connects to
the 4 way T fitting near the
rear turbo. Remove this hose. Be
sure to cap the fitting it used to be
attahced to on the 4 way connector, or
replace the 4 way with a 3 way
fitting. Your choice.
Connect a hose from the Y-pipe elbow fitting to the
solenoid's "NO" fitting.
Locate the 4 way fitting again. there is a tube
that runs from it to the
firewall and connects to the stock boost
solenoid. Remove this hose. Cap
the stock boost solenoid
fitting. Connect a hose from the newly open
fitting to the
"COM" connector of the AVC-R solenoid.
Locate a hose that runs from the rear turbo inlet pipe
to the firewall stock
solenoid location. Remove this hose. Cap
the fittings on the turbo inlet
pipe and the stock solenoid.
You're done. Just some hints: Make sure
that all fittings are secure. Use
clamps if possible and correct size
connectors for the hose. Route all
hoses away from heat sources and
moving parts. It is a good idea to fasten
them in place with tie wraps
or clips of some sort. Make sure you mount the
solenoid on a flat
surface, ideally horizontal, and be sure to use the
supplied rubber
pad. in fact it is a good idea to add a layer or two. Use
all
four screws to securely fasten the solenoid in place. Boost
solenoids
will sometimes transmit the sound they make when they are being
cycled to
the cabin if they are not properly sound insulated.
> thanks in advance,
> Jason
Best of luck. Just walk through and locate
all the hoses and connections
before disconnecting anything and understand
what needs to be hooked up
where. Label things before you remove them
if you are unsure. That way
there is no doubt as to where they go back
if need be.
Barry
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Most of those looking at rear facing vents, indeed
everyone who has been
talking about this recently on the lists, have been
talking about
getting excess heat out of the engine compartment.
Ideally you would
want to do this with out creating a negative (in relation
to ambient)
pressure in the engine compartment because this is where the
intake is.
You would therefore want to bring in cool air and exhaust hot with
the
pressure inside the compartment remaining equal to ambient.
Forward
facing vents to bring in cool air to either the compartment and/or
to
the intake (to the intake to provide cool air at least but possibly
some
amount of ram air pressure) should not extend into the air stream
which,
as you said, would affect laminar flow over the hood (assuming it
is
laminar in the first place.) One would therefore want to use the
NACA
duct which is recessed into the hood. I believe that studies have
shown
that this type of duct actually grabs more air than one extending
up
into the airflow anyway.
Hey Jason;
You can keep the stock BOV unless you want to go with
aftermarket bellsa nd whistles, or
increase your boost past 1.05. Mine works
fine with my SAVC-R. E-mail me privately and I
can forward you some
help I received (hope you won't mind Barry) when I installed mine. I
tried to
e-mail you and it was bounced so I need a firm address to do an add to my
address
book.
Best
Darc
Jason and Cristy Barnhart wrote:
> Hi all,
> I'm looking for a hand
in installing my new Apexi AVC-R boost controller. I've looked
> at
the walk through for the Blitz DSBC, but unfortunately the two are not similar
enough
> for me to make up for my lack of knowledge in this area.
Basically, I'm just wondering
> what hoses I need to tap into.
Naturally, the illustrations look far different then
> under my
hood. It looked like the DSBC was pretty simple, just tap into the hose
going
> into the y-pipe. Well, going by the AVC-R illustrations it's
kinda difficult for me to
> make a determination as to what and where
these hoses are on my car. It also looks like
> I need to remove and
not use the stock BOV altogether, is this correct? I've got the
>
pages from the manual scanned in, and published on my page, would anyone mind
taking a
> look? Consequently, the bulk of the instructions are in
the first scan, feel free to
> read through them. It looks like it
won't take long at all, once I just figure out what
> to tap
into.
>
> The link is www.erols.com/danebar/avcr.htm
>
>
thanks in advance,
> Jason
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 16:07:09
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation...
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 17:07:18
-0700
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I didn't address the electrical wiring. I assumed
that is pretty
straightforward since the wires all all color coded and not
too usually
difficult to locate. Fire away with any questions
though.
If you looked at Roger's DSBC site you'll have likely
already noticed the
convenient firewall location to route wires
through. Just try and avoid
removing the plug since it can sometimes be
a real PITA to get back into
place.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi
all,
> I'm looking for a hand in installing my new Apexi AVC-R
boost
> controller.
<snip>
> thanks in advance,
> Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 16:26:05
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Wow, that was quick :)
Before going to far, the book does state it
differently. It says to disconnect the
nipple connected to the NO side
of the valve and connect it to the NC side. I thought
this was kinda
weird, silly me, but why the heck did they put the nipple on the NO side,
and
seal it if it wasn't to end up there? The next step is to attach a hose to
the
nipple now in the NC side that was originally empty, and leave the NO
side open to the
atmosphere. These particular steps are in the scans I
made, under the first scan, below
the illustrations. Is the book
basically making a mountain out of a mole hill?
thanks,
Jason
I guess I'll leave this discussion public as it might
apply to others, if it gets to
lengthy then private discussion might be
better.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 16:47:59
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation...
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 17:48:08
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> -----Original Message-----
> Before
going to far, the book does state it differently. It says
> to
disconnect the
> nipple connected to the NO side of the valve and connect
it to
> the NC side. I thought
> this was kinda weird, silly
me, but why the heck did they put the
> nipple on the NO side,
> and
seal it if it wasn't to end up there? The next step is to
> attach a
hose to the
> nipple now in the NC side that was originally empty, and
leave
> the NO side open to the
> atmosphere. These particular
steps are in the scans I made,
> under the first scan, below the
illustrations.
That's news to me. Mine is connected as described
and as the manual that
came with my unit (about 1 year ago) indicates which
is NC open to
atmosphere. Are you certain that you're reading
instructions for the
correct installation type? There are (or were at
one point) two different
types of installations depending upon the type of
wastegate actuator. I
just checked the manual. You should have NC
open to atmospehere for our
cars. Check your manual again. The
part you are reading from is labelled
"2. Wastegate Type (Poppet
Type)" and is for for external wastegates.
Unless you have those (which
is highly unlikely) follow the previous
installation diagram as indicated
under "1. Actuator Type".
It is possible that Apex'i has changed things since I
insalled mine, so I
suppose you should follow their instructions.
*shrug*
> Is the book basically making a mountain out of a
mole hill?
Yes. It is really rather simply once you get a
grasp on it. Plus the
manual is generic which confuses thnigs a
little.
> thanks,
> Jason
Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 17:25:59
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Heh, you're right. In fact, in the second scan
where it mentions mitsubishi
specifically, it says to do as you said.
Now, if only the rain would stop :P
thanks again,
Jason
Hello everyone,
I have just recently had a big problem with my
91 SL, I was cruising
around one day and thought I would give my pearl SL a
bath, I pulled
into a local car wash. I hosed down the car and the
engine
compartment, somewhat. Anyway, after about thirty minutes when I
tried
to start my car and pull it out of the stall, it made a harsh sound
of
metal hiting metal. I thought it was the alternator since I had
gotten
it wet and I think the bearings are going out. I then had my
friend
come tow me to my shop. Turns out the timing belt had jumped about
3-5
teeth. I did some more investigation and found that when I aligned
the
four marks on the cams( which all did infact line up) the crank
was
about 3-5 teeth off TDC. How did it skip teeth? I wasn't even
pushing
the motor? I just installed the engine about 2 mo. ago and it
was
running great up until this. When I put on the timing belt I felt
a
great deal of pressure in the auto tensioner when compressing it with
a
vice, so I do not think the auto tensioner is bad. Anyway, I didn't
run the
car except for about a minute. It ran, but sounded bad. It
will still start
and run so I do not think there is much damage. Also,
I did not let it get
above 1000 RPM when the noise started. Is it
possible for the valves to not
be bent? I have an app. tomarrow to get
it put back in time again. Has anyone
had a similar problem? Or does
anyone know if the valves would for sure be
tweaked? Any input would
be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 20:22:04
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Subject:
Team3S: dimensions
Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 20:22:43 -0800
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Could someone take a dimension for me? Need the
distance from the ground to
the flat portion of the frame where the scissor
jack mounts. I'd do it, but
my car is about 2 feet of the ground on
jacks without a suspension. If
someone has a non-turbo with Eibachs,
that would be perfect.
Thanks bunches.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 20:58:53
1999
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In a message dated 3/21/99 10:22:31 PM Central Standard
Time,
ryanp@crcwnet.com
writes:
<< Need the distance from the ground
to
the flat portion of the frame where the scissor jack mounts.
>>
I get 8-1/2" on my stock '95 3000GT with
Michelin 245/45/ZR17
tires and Mits 17" rims.
'Hope this helps!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 21 21:00:34
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From: Kenneth Wells <k.wells@morganbanks.co.nz>
To:
Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: affect of alignment on stabi
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 17:01:00
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All the things you talk about are exactly what I was
experiencing when my
rear power steering rack was seized.
I
had it rebuilt, and it's back to normal now.. feels 'on rails' again.
A leak
of 4ws fluid from the rear rack caused my problem.
Regards,
Kenneth W
'91 GTO TwinTurbo
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
Sent:
Saturday, 20 March 1999 19:50
To: Team 3S Tech List; Kenneth
Wells
Subject: Team3S: affect of alignment on stability
>From previous postings it seems that some of you
(e.g.- Barry King) have
done some experimenting with different wheel
alignments or at least have
a good understanding of how wheel alignment
affects handling and
stability. I would greatly appreciate your
comments on my problem
described below.
Lately I have become increasingly disappointed with the
handling of my
car, and I'm hoping a four-wheel alignment would remedy the
situation.
The car tracks straight and has moderate wander, pretty normal,
I
think. But in the corners it seems to oversteer excessively,
especially
when I lift off the throttle (to the point where I find
myself
countersteering to avoid a spinout, sometimes to an
uncomfortable
degree). Past experience has taught me that in a hard
corner, my car
will tend to understeer under acceleration and oversteer
when
decelerating, but now things seem to have shifted more towards
the
oversteer end of the spectrum. Also, the car feels less stable in
long
sweeping high speed bends on the Autobahn than it used to, especially
in
the wet (I get a kind of floating, sliding sensation, definitely not
on
rails). Today I was following a new 911 on such a bend at about 140
mph
and it sure looked a lot more stable than my car felt. I have
tried
rotating the tires and always make sure they are warmed up
before
testing things out. I do not recall hitting anything that might
have
knocked things out of adjustment and tire wear is even (at least
half
the tread left on the Pilots after 25k miles) but I can't think
of
another explanation. Any suggestions?
Also, this may or may not be related, but my
outer-right brake pad is
wearing down more quickly than the other. The
calipers move smoothly
and do not appear to be sticking.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 06:07:55
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Hello Dustin,
If the belt was off 3-5 teeth, you did not
damage the valves. The engine
wil run very poorly with the cams out of time -
the valves will be timed
wrong, plus the ignition is timed off the rear
intake cam, so the ignition is
off too. You need to re-time everything. Make
absolutely sure the tensioner is
set right, and turn the engine over and
check the timing again. Also, check
the marks again after running the
engine.
I think you will be ok after you get everything set back
where it is
supposed to be.
Matt, and all others that want to remove insulation and
seals,
You all realize that the cowl (area between the firewall and bottom of
the
windshield) is a high pressure area, don't you? Thats why cowl
induction
hoods have a scoop pointing toward the windshield. If you remove
the seal
that runs across the rear of the hood, air (and whatever is in the
air,
like water, dirt, etc.) will be forced into the engine bay, not drawn
out.
You know all the dirt, leaves, etc. that build up in that area where
the
HVAC air grills are? That stuff will be in the engine bay,
getting
everything under the hood dirty and rusty. You may want to stick
with
modifying the strut blisters to remove heat.....
As far as removing the insulation goes, the paint on
the hood wont last,
because it will overheat. The insulation is there to
protect the paint.......
Just my 2 cents....
Wayne
At 10:09 AM 3/20/99 -0500, you wrote:
>would
removing the insulation be bad?
>I'm going to remove
the
>weatherstripping at the back of the bay, near the firewall, and do
you
>think I should remve the insulation
too?
>
>Matt
>3/Si #311
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
The gear to use is the one that is as close to a 1:1
ratio as possible. The
closer you are to 1:1, the less drivetrain losses you
will have. Usally
this is 3rd, or 4th. I don't have the service manual handy,
so i'm not sure
which one it is on these cars.
If you really want to learn something about your car,
make some pulls in
each gear seperatly (except 5th/6th), then make a few all
gear pulls (shift
1st thru 4th while dyno is sampling). Superimpose the
single gear power
curves over the all gear curve. Then you can determine the
best shift
points for your paticular setup.....The reason you do not want to
do
5th/6th, is it will get way too hot........good luck.
Wayne
At 07:27 PM 3/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Question
for Roger, Jim or Mike
>
>I plan on trying to run my car on the
Huntington Beach, ca AWD
>dyno again [ first test resulted in dyno failure
]. I would like to
>know what gear they tested your cars in. When they set
up my car
> for the aborted test they were using 2nd gear [ 80 mph at
redline ].
>While this is probably suitable for HP it must give a lower
drivetrain
>loss figure. Wheel speed, differential and driveshafts are all
being
>driven at a lower rate.
In my previous post, i recomended making all gear dyno
pulls. I have to
caution you that it takes some practice. If whoever is
operating the
vehicle does not have experience shifting while making a pull,
it's better
to not ask them to do it. As i said, it's rather
tricky.........And not for
the faint hearted.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 08:35:36
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dyno test conditions
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:23:14
-0700
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>The gear to use is the one that is as close to a
1:1 ratio as possible. The
>closer you are to 1:1, the less drivetrain
losses you will have. Usally
>this is 3rd, or 4th. I don't have the
service manual handy, so i'm not sure
>which one it is on these
cars.
The attached graph is something I was messing with
to determine
shift points, but it gives all the gear ratios for my 93 5
speed. The shop
seemed more concerned with speed than with
ratios.
Looking at the chart it looks like 3rd is best,
but it has a top speed of
about 125 MPH.
I'm confused as to the 1:1 and the drivetrain loss ---
I thought it was just
function of speed, e.g. more speed = more
loss.
------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE743D.3AC57A00
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 10:51:53
1999
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Subject:
Team3S: FULL Interior for sale??
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Beige leather? What is the condition, andy
deterioriation? Dashboard, center console?
Door panels?
Headliner? Quarter panels? etc... any visible damage? do you
have any
pictures? What color is the dash. black, or beige? Console,
color? Some of the
interiors, are beige/black, some are
beige/beige. I am interested in your interior.
> 18" x 8.5 JJ Chrome 6 spoke factory rims with
center cap, set of 4 for along
> with
> 4 Mich Pilot 245/40/ZR18
SXMXX3 over 50% left
> Set of 4 above rims & tires $1800.00
> 2
additional chrome rims with purchase $300 X-tra or $300 ea.
separately
>
> (set 4)17" x 8.5 JJ Stock Alum Alloy 5 spoke
directionals along
> with Goodyear Eagles 245/45/ZR17 Set of 4 wheels
& tires $600.00
>
> (2) TEC 15G turbos $1500.00
>
>
(2) Stock 9B VR4 turbos $250.00
>
> (2) Bozz Speed Hood scoops.
These are painted black and the body work needed
> after you buy these is
already done. $400.00 Better then new.
>
> Other available parts
from a 91 VR-4
> Full interior available (Beige leather)
> Front
& Rear Active Aero motor
> Air cond unit
> Stock CD
player
>
> Email direct please
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 11:12:15
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 14:19:37
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sidenote to shifting on a Dyno
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> In my previous post, i recomended making all gear
dyno pulls. I have to
> caution you that it takes some practice. If
whoever is operating the
> vehicle does not have experience shifting while
making a pull, it's better
> to not ask them to do it. As i said, it's
rather tricky.........And not for
> the faint hearted.
You are very right, but the AWD dynos we have are not a
big problem if any due
to the electronics the dyno is controlled by. Also the
car MUST be stripped down
to the ground at least with one stripe in the front
and two at the back. As the
AWD dyno has adjustable wheel-base it is no
problem to release the steering
wheel during the session (or be prepared to
catch it). Anyways, you'll not be
allowed to drive the car on the dyno as
this the operator does (with a remote
control for the dyno)
Regards,
Roger, AWD-Dyno-Land
Thanks for noticing our website. In response to the sloted
hood vents
on my friend Aaron's VR-4, they do an AWESOME job of releasing
the hot air
from under the hood. After driving the car if you simply
place your
hands over them you can feel the heat venting out.
As for how we did it
here it goes.
He bought a new set from the dealer just to have new
ones.
We took a good dremel and simply cut angled slots in them.
We placed
screen on the underside (from a fish store)
He had his painted blue to match
his racing stripes.
It really works great!
If you want to check it out for
yourself, check out the website at
wisc.dsm.org
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 16:32:45
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Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999
19:39:44 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer Case?
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Greetings. I have been lurking on this list for
about a month now and am
in need of some of this groups expert
experience. I have a '93 Stealth RT
TT with the following performance
mods:
Manual boost controller (Extreme XBC) @ 15psi, ATR
downpipe, test pipe,
custom 3" cat-back, K&N FIPK
One evening on my way home from work I noticed a thump
sounding like it was
coming from "under my chair-ish" and toward
the back. This would only
occur when I was taking off and happened no
matter what gear I was starting
in. Once I was moving the
"thump" went away (or at least I couldn't hear
it). Then
right before my house it made a horrible noise (grinding, and
like something
broke) and the clutch started slipping. I figured that the
clutch went
south, so I ordered a RPS Turbo Clutch. When I took the OEM
clutch out
it was down into the rivets, but the clutch face wasn't broken
anywhere and
the flywheel just had a few burn marks on it. After
installing the
clutch (new T.O. bearing and turned the flywheel) I set out
to test it and
low and behold, the clutch slipped as bad or worse than it
did before I
installed the RPS. There was also a click/grind, very light,
but ever
present when the car started moving. So I brought the car back
into the
garage and started looking at the service manual. I bled the
clutch
system and that didn't help. I checked the release fork and with
the
clutch disengaged I could wiggle the fork (or my friend could). So
we
lifted the car off the ground (on his lift) a little and put the car
in
gear. Slowly releasing the clutch resulted in the front wheels
turning but
not the back wheels. Also, with the car off and in gear
(and still off the
ground) the rear wheels can freely be spun and the drive
shaft moves.
Painfully, I am left to think that this problem is the
transfer case or the
tranny. I haven't taken the transfer case back off
yet to see if I can see
anything, but I guess that is the next step.
Anyone have any other ideas
what this might be? Experience this problem
before?
As I said the car is a '93 but I got it with an after
market warranty that
has not yet run out. So most of the cost of the
part should be covered by
the warranty if it is indeed the transfer case or
the tranny.
Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Wayne wrote:
>
> Matt, and all others that
want to remove insulation and seals,
> You all realize that the cowl (area
between the firewall and bottom of the
> windshield) is a high pressure
area, don't you? Thats why cowl induction
> hoods have a scoop pointing
toward the windshield.
Don't you have to either have a highly raised up
cowling, or like in
nascar, be doing 180 mph for the low pressure zone to
develop? I thought
that our cars, because of the slight slope of the hood, as
well as the
amount of air that comes in the front, would benefit from having
the
"blow-through" of the incoming air. Nascars have a very teeny
hole in
the front for air to come in, and I *think* the volume of air that
goes
around the car helps to create that low pressure zone. Am i right?
Any
aerodynamics pros out there?
Thanks for the feedback Del. You guys should take
a look at this as an
option for getting the heat out. Aesthetically, I
think it looks pretty
good in an understated way.
Regards,
Lynn
Del A Kolasinski wrote:
>
> Thanks for
noticing our website. In response to the sloted
> hood vents on my
friend Aaron's VR-4, they do an AWESOME job of
> releasing
> the hot
air from under the hood. After driving the car if you simply
> place
your hands over them you can feel the heat venting
out.
> As for
how we did it here it goes.
> He bought a new set from the dealer just to
have new ones.
> We took a good dremel and simply cut angled slots in
them.
> We placed screen on the underside (from a fish store)
> He
had his painted blue to match his racing stripes.
> It really works
great!
> If you want to check it out for yourself, check out the website
at
> wisc.dsm.org
> Del Kolasinski
> PEARLVR42C@juno.com
>
wisc.dsm.org
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Actually, I think that Wayne is right. Like he said the
area right at
the base of the windshield is a high pressure area. As the air
comes
over the hood and runs into the windshield, even with its slope, it
dams
up and creates a high pressure area. Also like he said, if you
take out
the seal at the back of the hood, the air will actually be forced
down
into the engine area. I think the front dam under the nose causes
the
air coming in through the radiator area to be drawn back down and
exit
underneath and out the sides of the car. The question becomes how
much
pressure is there and how much would it take to overcome it?? I
think
if you vent at the strut blisters you will be forward of this
high
pressure area enough to extract air. I am not an expert and
experiments
would have to be run to know for sure, but I did get a degree
in
engineering for what it's worth.
Regards,
Lynn
Michael Booker wrote:
>
> Wayne
wrote:
> >
> > Matt, and all others that want to remove
insulation and seals,
> > You all realize that the cowl (area between
the firewall and bottom
> of the
> > windshield) is a high
pressure area, don't you? Thats why cowl
> induction
> > hoods
have a scoop pointing toward the windshield.
> Don't you have to either
have a highly raised up cowling, or like in
> nascar, be doing 180 mph for
the low pressure zone to develop? I
> thought
> that our cars,
because of the slight slope of the hood, as well as the
> amount of air
that comes in the front, would benefit from having the
>
"blow-through" of the incoming air. Nascars have a very teeny hole
in
> the front for air to come in, and I *think* the volume of air
that
> goes
> around the car helps to create that low pressure zone.
Am i right? Any
> aerodynamics pros out there?
>
>
Matt
> #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 18:49:25
1999
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Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:51:49 -0500
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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How can I burn rubber in my auto 93 Stealth ES.
Can I put the car in
neutral, rev up the gas, and slip it into Drive?
Will this f*** up my
transmission?
Leland
>Actually, I think that Wayne is right. Like he said
the area right at
>the base of the windshield is a high pressure area. As
the air comes
>over the hood and runs into the windshield, even with its
slope, it dams
>up and creates a high pressure area. Also like he
said, if you take out
>the seal at the back of the hood, the air will
actually be forced down
>into the engine area.
My problem on road courses is that I get tremendous
underhood temps whilst
accelerating out of corners in 2nd gear under high
turbo boost. As near as
I can figure (thanks to discussions in this group),
the precats generate
the heat, which is trapped under the sealed hood.
Two obvious solutions are:
1) carry more speed into
the corners so I can remain in 3rd gear (this
probably requires racing tires
and more driving skill than I have at
present) or
2) vent the hood to
release all the builtup heat.
Since the temperature buildup occurs mostly at speeds
of 65-80 mph in 2nd
gear, it seems to me that this is not a high enough speed
to create a high
pressure area. With any kind of luck, removing the hood
seals or raising
the back of the hood up by an inch or so (dragstrip style)
ought to release
the heat.
I can remove the leaves, bugs, and trash that are
forced in at 125+ mph
after the event.
Thoughts?
BTW, we have a Porsche club drivers school event coming
up at Heartland
Park in Topeka, Kansas, the weekend of April 17-18. Am I
going to be all by
myself again? Where are all the stealths and 3000GTs
from Kansas City, St.
Louis, Des Moines, Oklahoma City and Omaha? You
dragstrippers might want to
emulate our collective hero, Dr Jack T: he drag
races AND road races! And
he kicks ass doing both! You could too.
I sure get lonely among all those doctors and their
pretty Porsches.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 19:16:49
1999
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From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:18:24 -0500
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Well, I'm not entirely sure why you would want to
considering you would just
be wasting tread, and losing time as your opponent
took off before you. BUT,
it should be pretty easy for you. I've got new
Yokohama 540's on my auto '93
Stealth ES, and I can light them up pretty
easily for 2-3 seconds, without
having to do a 'neutral drop' as you
described (which is horrible on your
tranny), or even power braking...you
should be able to just slam the
accelerator.
You may want to examine your engine. Maybe you have
some fouled plugs or
something? Leaky exhaust?
Good luck, and hope it's
not expensive!
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES
Merritt,
I think that even at 65-80 you are going to get airflow
back down into
the engine doing this. I absolutely could be wrong. Go
ahead and raise
the back of the hood like you said, but tape some 3-4"
strands of yarn
at about 6" intervals along the gap created and watch
them. See which
way they blow.
If they blow towards the engine like I think they will,
take a look what
this guy Aaron did at wisc.dsm.org or buy the bozz vent kits
for the
strut tower blisters that Aso8@aol.com has for sale.
If they blow up and out of the engine compartment, you
are good to go.
Regards,
Lynn
Merritt wrote:
> 2) vent the hood to release all the builtup
heat.
>
> Since the temperature buildup occurs mostly at speeds of
65-80 mph in
> 2nd gear, it seems to me that this is not a high enough
speed to
> create a high pressure area. With any kind of luck, removing
the
> hood seals or raising the back of the hood up by an inch or so
> (dragstrip style) ought to release the heat.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 19:55:10
1999
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From:
"Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stealth Ragtop Sighting
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:57:31
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I was on I-71 between Cincy and Columbus (Ohio) this
Saturday, and saw a
Stealth Convertible heading southbound. Was it by
chance anybody on the
list? If so, I'd be curious to find out what, if
any, structural
reinforcements you added to the car. Also, how much did
the conversion
cost?
Thanks.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 19:57:37
1999
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From:
"Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 2nd Gen Headlights?
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:59:50
-0500
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Anybody have a 2nd generation headlight assembly they
don't need? If so,
please e-mail me privately.
Thanks.
At 10:17 PM 3/22/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>Merritt,
>
>I think that even at 65-80 you are going
to get airflow back down into
>the engine doing this. I absolutely
could be wrong. Go ahead and raise
>the back of the hood like you said,
but tape some 3-4" strands of yarn
>at about 6" intervals along
the gap created and watch them. See which
>way they
blow.
>
Now THAT is a dang good idea!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 20:46:12
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Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:49:12 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> I was on I-71
between Cincy and Columbus (Ohio) this Saturday, and saw
What are you doing down that neck of the woods, I'm
just south of the
Ohio river. I didn't see you wave...
He's a sailor, they are called tell tails.
The pressure will either be reduced or reversed at the
right and left
edges of the hood, also away from the AC intake.
Sorry, I pasted over with Dennis' address but it went
to the list
anyway.
Ron Thompson wrote:
>
> Dennis Moore
wrote:
> >
> > I was on I-71 between Cincy and Columbus (Ohio)
this Saturday, and saw
>
> What are you doing down that neck of the
woods, I'm just south of the
> Ohio river. I didn't see you
wave...
>
> Ron Thompson
> Edgewood, KY
> 96VR4 white
pearl
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Mark;
Tranny problems are usually, but not exclusively
reserved to synchros, so that leaves
you with the more desireable : (
transfer case/spine problems. Get the warranty to
cover it if you can (mods
may invalidate it so maybe put it back to a stock "look"
before
going in to have it looked at). We have some past posts here on stronger shafts
(
splines) which are aftermarket products. Jack T. posted on one which
apparently is a
much harder steel and likely not to have this happen to it..
Check the archives for the
address/phone which he posted, or maybe someone
else has it handy and will post it.
Best (of luck.)
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 21:27:54
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer Case?
Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:00:50
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Sounds like just what my car did. (93 VR4 ) If
you check the transaxle you
will see that the internal gear and the tranny
output shaft are ground and
some of the noise is here from the gears slipping
and grinding. Mine were
shot, there was just enough left to let the
rear wheels move just slightly
on the lift.(I mean just barely moving with no
load)
There seems to be a problem in the tranny to since I can hardly move.
(front
wheel drive) I know the clutch is shot and maybe that could be
why, just
slipping.
My car is hopefully on the road now via a car hauler
and should be home in a
few days.
That's when the real fun begins...
starting the change over to a 6 speed :)
But I need to get a clutch
soon.
Good luck on your problem, sounds like what went wrong
with my car, but at
least you have a warranty on it :) I didn't
:(
>Greetings. I have been lurking on this
list for about a month now and am
>in need of some of this groups expert
experience. I have a '93 Stealth RT
>TT with the following
performance mods:
>
>Manual boost controller (Extreme XBC) @ 15psi,
ATR downpipe, test pipe,
>custom 3" cat-back, K&N
FIPK
>
>One evening on my way home from work I noticed a thump
sounding like it was
>coming from "under my chair-ish" and
toward the back. This would only
>occur when I was taking off and
happened no matter what gear I was starting
>in. Once I was moving
the "thump" went away (or at least I couldn't hear
>it).
Then right before my house it made a horrible noise (grinding, and
>like
something broke) and the clutch started slipping. I figured that
the
>clutch went south, so I ordered a RPS Turbo Clutch. When I took
the OEM
>clutch out it was down into the rivets, but the clutch face
wasn't broken
>anywhere and the flywheel just had a few burn marks on
it. After
>installing the clutch (new T.O. bearing and turned the
flywheel) I set out
>to test it and low and behold, the clutch slipped as
bad or worse than it
>did before I installed the RPS. There was also
a click/grind, very light,
>but ever present when the car started
moving. So I brought the car back
>into the garage and started
looking at the service manual. I bled the
>clutch system and that
didn't help. I checked the release fork and with
>the clutch
disengaged I could wiggle the fork (or my friend could). So
we
>lifted the car off the ground (on his lift) a little and put the car
in
>gear. Slowly releasing the clutch resulted in the front wheels
turning but
>not the back wheels. Also, with the car off and in gear
(and still off the
>ground) the rear wheels can freely be spun and the
drive shaft moves.
>
>Painfully, I am left to think that this
problem is the transfer case or the
>tranny. I haven't taken the
transfer case back off yet to see if I can see
>anything, but I guess that
is the next step. Anyone have any other ideas
>what this might
be? Experience this problem before?
>
>As I said the car is a
'93 but I got it with an after market warranty that
>has not yet run
out. So most of the cost of the part should be covered by
>the
warranty if it is indeed the transfer case or the tranny.
>
>Any
help is greatly
appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark
>broken '93 RT
TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 22 23:57:38
1999
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<< Today I was following a new 911 on such
a bend at about 140 mph >>
Your autobahn speeds are high enough that the owners'
manual specifies higher
pressures. My 92 TT manual states, "For
sustained high-speed driving,
increase inflation pressure 4 psi (28 kPa)
above the recommended pressure but
do not exceed the maximum inflation molded
into the tire sidewall." And for
speeds like yours above 100 mph,
the manual then has a chart that specifies
increasing pressure a total of 7
psi (50 kPa) in front and 4 psi (30 kPa) in
the rear.
I have always
used these higher pressures, and still have most of my wear on
the edges,
from cornering (I think the steel belts do minimize the ballooning
effect of
slightly higher pressures. The lower pressures posted at the
driver's
door are chosen perhaps more for soft ride comfort, than concern for
tire
wear).
Henry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
How can I burn rubber in my auto 93 Stealth ES.
Can I put the car in
neutral, rev up the gas, and slip it into Drive?
Will this f*** up my
transmission?
Leland
=============================
Leland...
Prepare your pocketbook for tranny replacements when
dropping from neutral
to drive under high RPMs!!!
Much better is the tried and true "power
braking" technique. Hold your left
foot on the brake hard enough to hold
the car while bringing up the revs.
With practice you can get endless tire
spin. Not a particularly useful race
technique, as you're wasting time
sitting in one spot, but it looks
impressive. Also a great way to reduce the
life of your tires. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 08:31:49
1999
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From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
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Quick question about the electrical side of the
install... I hate to mess with the
wiring on the computer too much, is
it necessary to connect the ground, key switch, and
constant hot to the
computer? I realize I won't get the injector signal from anywhere
else,
but the ground, key switch and and constant hot should be the same
virtually
anywhere in the car, right?
thanks again,
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 09:10:30
1999
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Subject:
Team3S: 95 VR4 for sale
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This weekend I took a look at a 95 VR-4 for sale.
This car was in
showroom condition , it only has 42 thousand miles on it's.
This is a
one owner car the owner has all maintenance records and the car
has
always been garaged. He is asking 22k for the vehicle if anyone
is
interested e-mail me and ill give you more details.
But if you keep your left foot on the brakes, doesn't
this affect the front brakes? I'm
thinking that if you keep your foot
on the brake, the front wheel won't be ale to spin.
Or, the wheels will spin
but the brake rotors would wear down too?
Please reply..
Leland
Chris Winkley wrote:
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Leland
Gray [mailto:grayda@erols.com]
>
Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 6:52 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: launching
>
> How can I burn rubber in my auto 93
Stealth ES. Can I put the car in
> neutral, rev up the gas, and slip
it into Drive? Will this f*** up my
> transmission?
>
>
Leland
> =============================
> Leland...
>
>
Prepare your pocketbook for tranny replacements when dropping from
neutral
> to drive under high RPMs!!!
>
> Much better is the
tried and true "power braking" technique. Hold your left
> foot
on the brake hard enough to hold the car while bringing up the revs.
>
With practice you can get endless tire spin. Not a particularly useful
race
> technique, as you're wasting time sitting in one spot, but it
looks
> impressive. Also a great way to reduce the life of your
tires. :-)
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
>
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator
dry
> cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm
wires, HKS
> double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A
boost controller,
> GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust,
> Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 09:54:50
1999
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From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 12:55:02 -0500
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Your just holding the brake long enough to get the revs
up, then pop your
left foot off the brake...*then* the burn-out occurs. Your
ES should be able
to burn them without power-braking, though.
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Leland Gray
> Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 12:51 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: launching
>
>
> But if you keep your left
foot on the brakes, doesn't this affect
> the front brakes?
I'm
> thinking that if you keep your foot on the brake, the front
wheel
> won't be ale to spin.
> Or, the wheels will spin but the
brake rotors would wear down too?
>
> Please reply..
>
>
Leland
>
> Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Leland Gray [mailto:grayda@erols.com]
> > Sent:
Monday, March 22, 1999 6:52 PM
> > To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> Subject: Team3S: launching
> >
> > How can I burn rubber
in my auto 93 Stealth ES. Can I put the car in
> > neutral, rev
up the gas, and slip it into Drive? Will this f*** up my
> >
transmission?
> >
> > Leland
> >
=============================
> > Leland...
> >
> >
Prepare your pocketbook for tranny replacements when dropping
> from
neutral
> > to drive under high RPMs!!!
> >
> > Much
better is the tried and true "power braking" technique.
> Hold
your left
> > foot on the brake hard enough to hold the car while
bringing up
> the revs.
> > With practice you can get endless
tire spin. Not a particularly
> useful race
> > technique, as
you're wasting time sitting in one spot, but it looks
> > impressive.
Also a great way to reduce the life of your tires. :-)
>
>
> > Looking forward...Chris
> >
> > 1995 Glacier
Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV,
> Predator dry
>
> cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm
>
wires, HKS
> > double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
> > GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and
test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
> > Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
What about removing the fenderwell covers? That would
not only allow the
intercoolers to breathe easier, but wouldn't it also vent
more air out
the sides/bottom of the car, and help to plant the car to the
ground?
Anybody tried this?
But if you keep your left foot on the brakes, doesn't
this affect the front
brakes? I'm
thinking that if you keep your
foot on the brake, the front wheel won't be
ale to spin.
Or, the wheels
will spin but the brake rotors would wear down too?
Please reply..
Leland
<snip>
==========================
Leland...
Yes, this technique is hard on the rotors, but overall
less damaging than
shifting from neutral into gear with the revs up. It
really depends on what
you're trying to accomplish, a burnout or a fast
launch. They are two
different things.
For the burnout, you have to find the right pressure on
the brake pedal
while increasing the revs (lets say, to five grand). At some
point, as you
let up slowly on the brake pedal, the tires will break loose,
while the car
sits in one place. In my younger days, I have done this for an
extended
period of time, producing lots and lots of smoke. It DOES wear out
the tires
and brakes both (but won't break the tranny).
For a good launch, the objective is to get your revs
high enough so you can
launch without "bogging" down the engine.
Mike Romano has replied indicating
he can get a good launch without using the
brakes at all. This is very
impressive, as most stock cars with automatics
won't do this in a straight
line (exceptions might be a big block Corvette or
other rear wheel drive
cars). The objective for a good racing launch (with a
manual or automatic
transmission) is to be able to leave the line without
this "bogging" effect,
at the same time not sitting in one spot of
molten rubber and smoke. It's a
fine line and takes some
practice.
BTW...the burnout technique was originally developed to
heat racing slicks
to a temperature where they become "sticky" and
provided greater traction
during the subsequent launch. The overall effect of
the revving engine,
smoking tires, etc. was impressive in itself and became
so popular that
everyone wanted to do it. However, it has NEVER won a race
and most street
tires do not benefit from the technique.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
At 01:04 PM 3/23/99 -0500, you wrote:
>What about
removing the fenderwell covers? That would not only allow
the
>intercoolers to breathe easier, but wouldn't it also vent more air
out
>the sides/bottom of the car, and help to plant the car to the ground?
>Anybody tried this?
Be sure to replace the fenderwell covers with a
screen that will keep
stones from being thrown off the tires into the
intercoolers.
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Leland,
I think I see what you are driving at. If you put on
only the emergency
brake, that should hold the rears and hopefully the car
while leaving
the FWD to spint to its hearts content. As long as the rears
don't
rotate, this should put no wear on the brake pads but will put
stesses
on the rotors and brake mechanisms. Will it break them??
Who knows. I
guess it depends on the slipping coefficent of friction of your
front
tires. (Yes the slipping coefficent of friction is different than
the
static by a LOT.) This and the weight on the tires will determine
how
much force the brakes will have to endure while the fronts fog up
the
country side and your wallet goes ca-ching, ca-ching, ca-ching like
an
old timey gas pump dinging off the gallons.
Regards,
Lynn
Leland Gray wrote:
>
> But if you keep
your left foot on the brakes, doesn't this affect the
> front
brakes? I'm thinking that if you keep your foot on the brake,
> the
front wheel won't be ale to spin. Or, the wheels will spin but
> the
brake rotors would wear down too?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> For a good launch, the objective is to get your
revs high enough
> so you can
> launch without "bogging"
down the engine. Mike Romano has replied
> indicating
> he can get a
good launch without using the brakes at all. This is very
> impressive, as
most stock cars with automatics won't do this in a straight
> line
(exceptions might be a big block Corvette or other rear wheel drive
>
cars). The objective for a good racing launch (with a manual or
automatic
> transmission) is to be able to leave the line without
this
> "bogging" effect,
Just to clarify: I was saying that I can burn-out
without using the
brakes...I was not speaking about getting a good launch.
:)
I can't get a good launch to save my life!
This was
the first automatic I bought in the last 7 cars...and it will be
the last
automatic sports car, thats for sure!
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>
>
Leland,
>
> I think I see what you are driving at. If you put on
only the emergency
> brake, that should hold the rears
I've never pretended to be a car expert, but they teach
in driving
school that the parking break locks up all four wheels. Am I
wrong?
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>
>
Leland,
>
> I think I see what you are driving at. If you put on
only the emergency
> brake, that should hold the rears and hopefully the
car while leaving
> the FWD to spint to its hearts content. As long as the
rears don't
> rotate, this should put no wear on the brake pads but will
put stesses
> on the rotors and brake mechanisms. Will it break
them?? Who knows. I
> guess it depends on the slipping coefficent of
friction of your front
> tires. (Yes the slipping coefficent of friction
is different than the
> static by a LOT.) This and the weight on the tires
will determine how
> much force the brakes will have to endure while the
fronts fog up the
> country side and your wallet goes ca-ching, ca-ching,
ca-ching like an
> old timey gas pump dinging off the
gallons.
Lynn,
He's talking about keeping your foot on the brake pedal
(not the
emergency brake) only to bring the RPM up, i.e. 1 second or so after
you
step on the gas. The burnout will not being until you release the
brake
pedal.
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 11:07:35
1999
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
TT Launching (Was:RE: Team3S: launching)
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 14:07:48
-0500
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> <snip>
> For a good launch, the
objective is to get your revs high enough so you
> can
> launch
without "bogging" down the engine. The objective for a good
racing
> launch (with a manual or automatic
> transmission) is to be
able to leave the line without this "bogging"
> effect,
>
at the same time not sitting in one spot of molten rubber and smoke.
It's
> a
> fine line and takes some
practice.
<snip>
I've read the article on getting a good launch in the
FAQ, but it is still
somewhat vague.
Does anyone have anything more
specific as to how one might get a better
launch, or is it merely a result of
one's familiarity with the whole "clutch
out, throttle
in"?
james berry wrote:
>
> >The gear to use
is the one that is as close to a 1:1 ratio as possible. The
> >closer
you are to 1:1, the less drivetrain losses you will have. Usally
>
>this is 3rd, or 4th. I don't have the service manual handy, so i'm not
sure
> >which one it is on these cars.
On the 2nd gen 6-speed, it is 4th gear.
> The attached graph is something I was messing
with to determine
> shift points, but it gives all the gear ratios for my
93 5 speed. The shop
> seemed more concerned with speed than with
ratios.
The CarTest program can also calculate this, as well as
simulate
acceleration using optimal or user-defined shift points. The
URL for
download is on my web page.
> I'm confused as to the 1:1 and the drivetrain
loss --- I thought it was just
> function of speed, e.g. more speed = more
loss.
I think it has to do with power loss due to gear
reduction. Since you
are trying to measure power of the engine and not
the transmission,
choosing as close to direct drive as possible will minimize
the effects
of mechanical (dis)advantage from gearing.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 12:06:52
1999
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Date:
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Team3S: Math Guys
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
This weekend I will be in the process of tuning and
making my car race
ready. However, I am unsure of what fuel I should be
using. Here in
Colorado we only have 91 octane unleaded. I have found one
pump that
sells 93, but it has lead in it. I was wondering if I went and
bought
some 100 octane unleaded and mixed it with my 91 octane. How
many
gallons of 100 octane fuel will be needed run 18 pounds of boost
on the
stock fuel system?
Ok, got it all in and setup. The negative
battery terminal was off for over a day. I
took it for a spin, let it
warm up and began using the right petal heavily. It feels fast,
but I'm
not sure about faster. I'm running with the boost set to 1.00
kg/cm2. By the way,
I have no boost gauge. According the the
boost controller, I've gone up as high as 1.14 or
near a couple of
times. It seems to usually be in first gear when it goes over 1.0.
I
have two questions though. Is 1.0 kg/cm2 equal to 1.0 bar (1.0 bar
equals 14.7 psi,
right?), and is it safe for me to approach 1.14
kg/cm2. I've heard that 15 psi is safe,
and the car seems to be running
fine, but I expected to really notice a difference from 9.5
psi to 15
psi.
In case you're wondering, the car has the
following:
91.5k miles
Weapon-R air filter (done at 88k
miles)
NGK platinums gapped to .035, and Accel wires (done less than 1k miles
ago)
Gutted cats (done less than 1k miles ago)
thanks again,
Jason
Forgot to include that the injector duty cycle went up
to 90% at one point. That's the highest
I saw it go at any point,
although I spent more time watching boost. Not sure if the above
helps
answer the questions below. Also makes me wonder if I can run more boost,
since the
injectors were at 90%.
Jason and Cristy Barnhart wrote:
> Ok, got it all in and setup. The
negative battery terminal was off for over a day. I
> took it for a
spin, let it warm up and began using the right petal heavily. It feels
fast,
> but I'm not sure about faster. I'm running with the boost
set to 1.00 kg/cm2. By the way,
> I have no boost gauge.
According the the boost controller, I've gone up as high as 1.14 or
> near
a couple of times. It seems to usually be in first gear when it goes over
1.0. I
> have two questions though. Is 1.0 kg/cm2 equal to 1.0
bar (1.0 bar equals 14.7 psi,
> right?), and is it safe for me to approach
1.14 kg/cm2. I've heard that 15 psi is safe,
> and the car seems to
be running fine, but I expected to really notice a difference from 9.5
>
psi to 15 psi.
> In case you're wondering, the car has the
following:
> 91.5k miles
> Weapon-R air filter (done at 88k
miles)
> NGK platinums gapped to .035, and Accel wires (done less than 1k
miles ago)
> Gutted cats (done less than 1k miles ago)
>
>
thanks again,
> Jason
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 12:32:36
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Ricardo, try calling 1-800-race-gas. This Is to locate
a Sonoco race gas
location near you. You should be able to get at least 103
Octane unleaded. Run
your car to the track with the minimum amount of gas you
can use to make it
there. Put in no less then 5 Gals. Let your car run to
make sure its into the
fuel lines. (good idea to buy a 2nd 5 gal can) in case
you get stuck, but I
put in the race gas from the last trip on the way to the
track. I then know
its in the lines and I just fill up the spare can.
*Its always very risky to ride with gas, especially race gas in the car.
Take
extraordinary care your not rear ended and don't buy a cheep gas
can.
Arty 91 VR-4
At 03:29 PM 3/23/99 EST, you wrote:
>Ricardo, try
calling 1-800-race-gas. This Is to locate a Sonoco race gas
>location near
you. You should be able to get at least 103 Octane unleaded.
Argh! That stuff is $4 per gallon trackside.
What
about avgas?
Merritt wrote:
>
> At 01:04 PM 3/23/99
-0500, you wrote:
> >What about removing the fenderwell covers? That
would not only allow the
> >intercoolers to breathe easier, but
wouldn't it also vent more air out
> >the sides/bottom of the car, and
help to plant the car to the ground?
> >Anybody tried this?
>
> Be sure to replace the fenderwell covers with a screen that will
keep
> stones from being thrown off the tires into the
intercoolers.
If you really want to get fancy, cut an extraction vent
through the
fender wells and vent it to the currently none functional
extraction"Gill" that is part of the ground effects on our cars:
it's
just in front of the doors. This, and small custom vents/grills
inserted
into the back of the blisters would effectively handle our heat
problem.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 13:24:58
1999
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Yeah...So whats your point?
Try buying 116 Octane.
$4.00 a gal. will look cheep.
Just think of it as Viagra ($10.00 a pill I
hear) for your car.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 3/23/99 1:09:46 PM Pacific Standard
Time, merritt@cedar-
rapids.net writes:
As far as I ever knew most, if not all, EBs only lock
the rears. That is
how they teach you to make the rear come around: hit the
EB and turn a
little in the opposite direction you want the rear to go while
holding
some breaks. The sliding coeffecent of friction is way less
than static
and you have sliding rears (skidding) and 1:1= static in front as
the
fronts are rolling 1:1 with the road. You have less friction in
back,
more in front = the back passes the front.
I used to thrill my kids doing 90 degree turns on
Florida clay roads
using this technique. (And before anyone gasps, it was
completely safe
and controlled, out in the country on farm roads on our
grove, so no
children were put in jeopardy doing this.)
Regards,
Lynn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 13:48:37
1999
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If you are talking about 100LL avgas, it has plenty of
lead in it. Now
I haven't worked at an airport in about 6 years so
maybe they have 100
NO Lead now, but they didn't used to.
Regards,
Lynn
Ricardo Cousar wrote:
>
> This weekend I
will be in the process of tuning and making my car race
> ready. However,
I am unsure of what fuel I should be using. Here in
> Colorado we only
have 91 octane unleaded. I have found one pump that
> sells 93, but it has
lead in it. I was wondering if I went and bought
> some 100 octane
unleaded and mixed it with my 91 octane. How many
> gallons of 100
octane fuel will be needed run 18 pounds of boost on
> the
>
stock fuel system?
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
<snip>
Jason - 1.0 bar equals 14.7
psi,right?
<snip>
cjw - Yes, that the correct
conversion
<snip>
Jason - but I expected to really notice a
difference from 9.5psi to 15 psi.
<snip>
cjw - Congratulations on
the install. I noticed a BIG difference when I
installed the GReddy, so it
seems like something may be set incorrectly. It
took me quite a while to get
the fuzzy logic programming to function
properly, perhaps Barry, Darcy or
others know the secret for the Apexi. The
number I've seen is 10hp/lb of
boost, so you should feel a 55hp jump. BTW,
how do you know you were getting
9.5psi of boost? The stock gauge is very
inaccurate and I think the stock
setup will only produce 7psi to 8psi.
Soooo, in theory you doubled the boost,
and added roughly 75hp.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
At 04:38 PM 3/23/99 -0500, you wrote:
>As far as
I ever knew most, if not all, EBs only lock the rears. That is
>how they
teach you to make the rear come around: hit the EB and turn a
>little in
the opposite direction you want the rear to go while holding
>some breaks.
Sounds like a handbrake turn. In rallying, we used it
to turn a car around
in its own length on a narrow dirt road. Just for kicks,
I used to come
down a long hill to a T in front of my house in my 74 Vega (in
the winter
with snow on the pavement), grab the handbrake, spin the car
around, and
back up my driveway, all in one long continuous motion.
Took a lot of
practice.
You can also back up at high speeds and then do a
moonshiner turn: i.e.,
get it up to about 20-30 mph in reverse, then snatch
the wheel to the left
or right. The car will slew around instantly. Then you
catch it, shift into
first, and off you go in the opposite direction. Stunt
car drivers do this
on TV all the time. It's easy. The tough part is
completing the turn
without stopping, and to do this you need an automatic
trans. But if you
can do it without stopping, it is the ultimate
maneuver. It tends to
launch front wheel covers into the next county,
though.
>
>I used to thrill my kids doing 90 degree
turns on Florida clay roads
>using this technique.
Clay roads? Must be north Florida. Down in
Brevard County, we had sandy
roads.
I remember that every day, coming
home from high school, I used to take my
1957 Mercury through a 90 right turn
and spin it around 360 degrees. Sand
on the road really helps. I've rallied
in that clay (in Alabama) and it
gets messy.
Sigh. Nostalgia just isn't what it used to
be.
Rich/old poop/the older I get, the faster I
was
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 15:01:44
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From: "Bob
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli P-Zero?
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999
15:01:02 -0800
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I was just reading about the new non-Chrysler 200mph
AWD Lamborghini Diablo,
http://www.caranddriver.com/ , and was
wondering if any of you racing or
Autobahn types have tried these (or
similar) O-Z rated tires? The Lambo is
not that different from some of
our super-modded S/3ks (if you don't
consider that it's 4x the price), and
the Diablo runs Pirelli P Zero
Asimmetrico; F: 235/35ZR-18 86Y, R:
335/30ZR-18 86Y. Anyone using them?
Forrest
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From:
Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
To:
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Subject:
Team3S: Best Plugs
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 19:10:49 -0500
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Help,
I have a 91 VR4 with about 50k on it.
Performance is starting to degrade a little, particularly on
acceleration. Getting some weird sensations from the throttle, almost
pushing back under heavy acceleration. I believe it is time for new plugs
and a throttle body cleaning. (neither has ever been done). Any ideas
about plug choices? I was told a few years back that the car took special
plugs, around $28 each. Most listings I find in parts stores just list a
double platinum plug at around $4 each - doesn't seem right. I don't want
to have to redo the job, but don't want to waste money either. Any
recommendations? Also, any troubleshooting tips? I don't want to put
a fortune into the car, but I LOVE the performance.
Pete
Hi Jason;
Barry, Errin, or Jim may be able to add more on advice
here, as they are both long time
SAVC-R users, and I am bit more of a new
comer. Nevertheless, you should notice a seat
of the pants improvement
with this installed. I assume you followed the setup
parameters for tuning it
on runs in third, etc. Also, the overboost spike you have noted
should/will
be tuned out by the self learning mode in the unit...but to get this
to
operate smoothly and quickly, you should continue making the runs
suggested in the
instructions. It self learns for some time so fine
adjustments are going on weeks down
the road.
Best
Darc
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best Plugs
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:02:10 -0700
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The most consistent performer is the NGK double
platinum. You can pick them
up for around $10 each although many places
sell them for much more.
I can tell you from direct experience that Bosch and
Autolite platinums are
complete crap, or at least were in my '94. Each
lasted roughly two weeks.
NGKs seem to last forever. Your mileage may
vary.
If you are running anything higher than stock boost you
may wish to gap the
plugs down to around 0.034". Also check the
condition of the plug wires if
they are the original stockers. Almost
time for the 60K tuneup anyway.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
Help,
> I have a 91 VR4 with about 50k on it.
<snip>
I believe it is time for new plugs and a
>
throttle body cleaning. (neither has ever been done). Any ideas
>
about plug choices? I was told a few years back that the car
> took
special plugs, around $28 each. Most listings I find in
> parts
stores just list a double platinum plug at around $4 each -
> doesn't seem
right. I don't want to have to redo the job, but
> don't want to
waste money either. Any recommendations?
<snipped>
> Pete
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From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli P-Zero?
Date: Tue, 23 Mar
1999 17:00:05 -0800
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Don't know how helpful I can be. But I have PZero
Asimetricos 245 45 17 on
all four corners of my SL. With AWD you might
put the Directionals on the
back. Fabulous tires though. Was like
a whole new car with them. Not
nearly as easy to roast the fronts as
with the stock Yokos and the thing
cornered like on rails. Never done
any racing or compared data.
Ryan P
-----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bob
Forrest
Subject: Team3S: Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli
P-Zero?
and the Diablo runs Pirelli P Zero
Asimmetrico; F:
235/35ZR-18 86Y, R: 335/30ZR-18 86Y. Anyone using them?
Forrest
My '94 read 12.5 psi on an SPI gauge as measured from a
T in the FPR line at
the rear of the intake plenum.
Supposedly '93 and earlier was limited to a maximum of
9.5 psi. Note that
anything from 6.5 up is considered
"normal" the way I read the manual
anyway.
Apparently AVC-R will not learn above 90% IDC.
This is a safety feature
since running at or above 90% iDC can damage the
injectors. Since some
injectors (some Bosch models for instance) CLOSE
FULLY when they fail I
guess Apex'i chose to not be the source of premature
injector failure.
As to programming, I always start learning in as low as
gear as feasible,
usually 2nd, and start with a conservative BADC to minimize
spikes. Works
100% of the time for me and I am happy with the
results. Others just set
the BADC as high as possible and live with the
spikes. I prefer to increase
BADC from some minimal gradually until I
begin to overshoot and back off
from there. Arguably transient spikes
are not a big deal. Extended
overshoot is a problem though IMO so I
prefer to sidestep the issue by never
dealing with them.
I suggest trying it either way and use what works best
for the individual's
car.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> cjw - Congratulations on the install. I noticed a
BIG difference when I
> installed the GReddy, so it seems like something
may be set
> incorrectly. It
> took me quite a while to get the
fuzzy logic programming to function
> properly, perhaps Barry, Darcy or
others know the secret for the
> Apexi. The
> number I've seen is
10hp/lb of boost, so you should feel a 55hp jump. BTW,
> how do you know
you were getting 9.5psi of boost? The stock gauge is very
> inaccurate and
I think the stock setup will only produce 7psi to 8psi.
> Soooo, in theory
you doubled the boost, and added roughly 75hp.
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
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1999
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From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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To: stealth@starnet.net, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
References: <19990323095330.7b951094e11b11d2813f00104b27b4a2.in@mailhost.locnet.net>
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Ok guys, I finally got through to my suspension
mechanic and here is
the low down on how to fix the negative camber created
by lowering
springs.
On the front you must elongate the shock tower mounting
holes to give
extra positive camber. This means make the holes longer toward
the
engine bay, not toward the wheel. Do it nice and clean, don't
widen
the hole, just make it longer, like a perfect oval. You can
add
washers under the nuts after you reinstall the strut to further
hold
it in place. It will not slip without severe impact. How much
depends
on how far out you are, 3/16" to 5/16" should give you
enough to use
the stock adjusters again.
The rear is different because the front struts mount to
the spindles
in two places, making the strut angle a useable adjustment. This
one I
knew but the rear I wanted to here direct from Bill.
The rear you must elongate the sub frame where the
lower control arm
attaches near the differential. The upper arm has the cam
adjuster for
the camber adjustment and the lower is fixed. Again, don't
widen, just
elongate, this time toward the wheel. Make sure you keep the hole
true
and NO bigger than the control arm bushing. Again you can add
washers
to help hold the position after you are done but these bolts are 17
to
19 mm and will take some torque. Best advise is to zero the
cam
adjuster and elongate the hole to bring the camber to near zero
and
fine adjust with the stock adjusters.
WARNING: This job is not for any Bozo, and a sloppy
mechanic can
wallow the holes out bad if careless. The is done on race cars
from
Ferrari's to Toyotas so it isn't your back yard cob job.
I will give the Name, address, and phone number
of my shop to anyone
who wants to come to Cincinnati to have Bill work on
their car, but I
won't have him pestered with calls for free advise. He has
spent 20
years perfecting his experience, and has a sizable back log of
work.
If you intend to call and pick his brain, get out your credit card
and
pay for it. I will direct specific questions you may have to him on
a
limited basis, cause I spend money there. Try to understand this is
a
business, and it can't exist without paying work.
Hope this helps all who needed it, sorry for the slow
response.
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE756E.1A4F2780
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Thanks for the info. What is the plug
#?
The most consistent performer is the NGK double
platinum. You can pick them
up for around $10 each although many places
sell them for much more.
I can tell you from direct experience that Bosch and
Autolite platinums are
complete crap, or at least were in my '94. Each
lasted roughly two weeks.
NGKs seem to last forever. Your mileage may
vary.
If you are running anything higher than stock boost you
may wish to gap the
plugs down to around 0.034". Also check the
condition of the plug wires if
they are the original stockers. Almost
time for the 60K tuneup anyway.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
Help,
> I have a 91 VR4 with about 50k on it.
<snip>
I believe it is time for new plugs and a
>
throttle body cleaning. (neither has ever been done). Any ideas
>
about plug choices? I was told a few years back that the car
> took
special plugs, around $28 each. Most listings I find in
> parts
stores just list a double platinum plug at around $4 each -
> doesn't seem
right. I don't want to have to redo the job, but
> don't want to
waste money either. Any recommendations?
<snipped>
> Pete
------
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE756E.1A4F2780--
> I've never pretended to be a car expert, but they
teach in driving
> school that the parking break locks up all four wheels.
Am I wrong?
Oh Oh, time to get a new driving school, The e -
brake is connected by
cables to the rear only and in most cases they are drum
brakes inside
the center of the rear rotor. So NO disc brakes are
involved.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 17:55:24
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Best Plugs
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:55:20 -0700
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> Thanks for the info. What is the plug
#?
PFR6J-11
The "-11" just means 0.045" gap so
anything with PFR6J- will do since they
should be gapped before installing
anyway regardless of what gap you settle
on.
Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 18:34:47
1999
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From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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Re: Team3S: Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli P-Zero?
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<002401be7592$922c3bc0$d3c6f1d1@u5gx5>
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Ryan Peterson wrote:
Has anyone with an NA tried Bosch platinum 4+4 plugs? I
know they haven't
been approved for the turbo cars, and can't be gapped like
normal plugs.
I've had them in my 92 r/t for about 3 months now and they seem
to be
normal. I haven't really done any performance measurement runs, as i
don't
have time for this. I really wasn't able to notice any difference
in
performance between now and then. I'd love to hear anybody elses views
and
experiences with these plugs.
Omar
92 r/t
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 23 22:22:09
1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
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"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> My
'94 read 12.5 psi on an SPI gauge as measured from a T in the FPR line
at
> the rear of the intake plenum.
Perhaps this is why I don't notice a big
difference. It'll spike to
near 1.15, but I haven't seen it stay above
1 for longer than 2
seconds. It normall settles down to .5-.6 which
sounds normal for stock
turbos.
> Apparently AVC-R will not learn above 90%
IDC. This is a safety feature
> since running at or above 90% iDC
can damage the injectors. Since some
> injectors (some Bosch models
for instance) CLOSE FULLY when they fail I
> guess Apex'i chose to not be
the source of premature injector failure.
Hmm, starting to get worried again. On the way to
work tonight I
started watching the IDC again. I dropped it into 3rd
and nailed it. I
then watched the IDC climb to 100% and blink, it
stayed there for 3
seconds or so, till it settled back down. The car
did feel fine, but
this doesn't sound good.
> As to programming, I always start learning in as
low as gear as feasible,
> usually 2nd, and start with a conservative BADC
to minimize spikes. Works
> 100% of the time for me and I am happy
with the results. Others just set
> the BADC as high as possible and
live with the spikes. I prefer to increase
> BADC from some minimal
gradually until I begin to overshoot and back off
> from there.
Arguably transient spikes are not a big deal. Extended
> overshoot
is a problem though IMO so I prefer to sidestep the issue by never
>
dealing with them.
When I was going through the Preset Boost Duty Setting
section, I recall
the boost spiking to 1.1*. Somewhat confused by the
setup directions, I
set it to setting B, 1 bar, and hoped the self learning
would take over.
Perhaps only time at the track will tell, maybe I'm not
as in-tune with
my car as I thought.
For your interest when doing the mod :
The hood scoops list @ 36.28 each, your price being
$27.21. The gaskets
for the scoops list @ $ 7.79, your price being
$5.84. We can do either COD or
Credit Card whichever you prefer.
Thanks for responding to our ad!
Dave Daniels
Conicelli Mitsubishi
(800)
892-8994
-------------
I check out the local cost and also if they come
already painted or not !
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 02:53:37
1999
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Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:35:33 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
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Friends, ... here's a little easter gift for your
beloved car !
More power = more problems with the stock clutch. This
equation is very true and
therefore it's time for a new clutch. I shopped
around a little bit and found
the "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the
best solutions. Till today I only heard
good things about it and I think it's
a really good choice.
The list price is around $650 (ouch) but we can get it
for ..... under $460 ....
when more than 3 people do join the GP ! But for
sure, the more people the
better the discount we can get ! The GP also
includes the cheaper "RPS Turbo"
and the "RPS Carbon"
(for the NA people who need a new clutch or run on NO2) and
the price will be
around $420 or less but the price for the TURBO CARBON is very
good in my
opinion.
I'll try to organize the GP while the clutches will be
sent to the participants
directly by the distributor who made the great offer
to us located in the US.
Please note that the price do NOT include shipping.
I'll update the GP status
every day and will also create a web-site on my
pages before the GP starts on
Saturday so everyone can check out the current
price and how many people are
signed up. I'll post the link when it is
ready.
The GP starts on Saturday, March 27 1999 and ends
Sunday, April 4 1999. We
haven't planned to make the GP longer and after this
date the selling price
increases again above $520 street price !
So, everyone who likes the power to be distributed to
the tranny correctly
should email me personally(robby@swissonline.ch). I'll register the
GP
participants and will post more information when the prices drops due to
the
fact that we are getting more people than expected.
I hope this helps a little in money
saving,
Regards,
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT ... too
much power is comming for the stock clutch :)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 02:55:46
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 04:52:27
-0600
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Dave,
my advise is to wait. Too many miles in my
opinion. If you're prepared to
travel you can shop from the whole
country, may be an advantage depending on
where you live. I'm speaking
from experience, last spring I was shopping
locally for a 2nd gen. turbo,
VR-4 or R/T. Not much luck, found one that
had been sitting at a dealer
up north for 8 months. They were to high on
the price and wouldn't come
down to a realistic level.
I then started shopping the entire country and ended up
buying a 95 R/T
turbo from a guy in New York. The car was a one owner
w. 23k miles. I paid
a fraction over what you're considering to pay for
the 90k miles car. (plus
$500 plane ticket) This is year ago, the
prices have since dropped. While I
was shopping I found a pile of 94's
with around 50k miles on them for around
17-18k. Again, since this is a
year ago I would think that the same will
apply to the '95s by
now.
As always, when buying a used car, have it
professionally inspected.
>
>I need your collective
advice..
>
>I may be selling my 91 VR4 this week, and know of a 95
VR4 that I could
pick
>up for $18,000.. Here's the catch..
the 95 has 90,000 miles, and no
warranty.
>However, it's a one owner
car and was apparently maintained religously. I
know
>to check
for all the obvious things like 60K service, oil changes,
tranny
>replacement(s), etc.. I also know a number of you have some
very high mile
>cars, so I know they have the potential to last a long
time.
>
>I guess what I'm after is, is this just way too many miles
for the money
even
>if it's in great shape? I haven't seen
the car yet since it's about 1 1/2
>hours away, and want to make sure I'm
not wasting my time.. Is there
anything
>specific to 95 models
that I need to be aware of or look for?
>
>I was actually planning
on looking for a low to average mile 94-96 over the
>next 9 months..
should I wait?
>
>thanks..
>
>Dave
>91 VR4 (may
soon be gone.. :( but may be replaced.. :) )
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 03:47:08
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 12:48:53
+0100
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hi Listers..
First of all, thank you for the advice to paint the pop
up black headlights.
IMHO, the car is much nicer now....
I still have a couple questions (I told you so
:-)
Factory Alarm
- I can have the SECURITY light activated when I
depress the passenger's
door lock,
but NOT when I lock the car with
the key....normal ?
- When the SECURITY is engaged, I can open either door
with the key, no
problem. But if
I open the hatch with the key, then
the alarm will trigger....normal ?
Canadian export ?
- My car is supposed to be a 92, canadian export. The
speedo is indeed with
the Km/h
in bigger font than the MPH, but when
I want to "flash" my headlights, and
if the main
lights
are off, then only the FOG lights will illuminate. And I CANNOT
have
the
foglights on, unless the main lights are in the UP
position...
- Given the king of speed I travel around, I'd like to
be able to have the
foglights on
(for security), but with the main
headlights OFF (better
aerodynamics)...any fix to that ?
- The clima is displaying in °F....and, hum, I'd
prefer to have it in
°C....any trick ?
- What control is switching ON the anti fog of the
external mirrors...seems
that some days it's working, and some
days...not !
Thank you for your advice
Best regards
PS: I'll be quite soon in KY, TX (Dallas area), CA
(S.F.), and NYC.
Any listers from there ??
Roger,
I went back through the posts and the referenced emails
and the only mod
I found was the one on the Wisconsin DSM club site.
Which mod is Dave
Daniels below talking about?
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> For your interest
when doing the mod :
>
> The hood scoops list @ 36.28 each, your
price being $27.21. The
> gasketsfor the scoops list @ $ 7.79, your
price being $5.84.
> We can do either COD or Credit Card whichever
you prefer.
> Thanks for responding to our ad!
>
>
Dave Daniels
> Conicelli Mitsubishi
> (800) 892-8994
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 04:04:10
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: A humble apology
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 06:00:53
-0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sorry - my previous reply regarding VR-4 purchase was
intended to be
private. Just got back from vacation and forgot the
meaning of the 'Reply
to Author' button.
Oskar
Hey everyone,
Our next event is April 18th at Rock Falls Raceway, for
a little drag
racing. If anyone else up in Wisconsin, Iowa, or Illinois
is interested in
coming, let me know. The more the
merrier.
Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
> Perhaps this is
why I don't notice a big difference. It'll spike to
> near 1.15, but
I haven't seen it stay above 1 for longer than 2
> seconds. It
normall settles down to .5-.6 which sounds normal for stock
>
turbos.
You should notice a big difference with a boost
controller. With the
SAVC-R installed and set to 1.0 bar, my car's
HP/torque increased from
320/315 to 406/354, no small potatoes.
Something is apparently not
right with your setup.
It should NOT be settling down to .5-.6 bar.
Throw it in third and see
if you can hold 1.0 bar of boost from 1500 RPM
through 5000 RPM, which
will take more than 2 seconds. If boost falls
off in this range, you
have a problem. Note that at redline, boost
levels of .7-.8 are typical
due to the small turbos.
> Hmm, starting to get worried again. On
the way to work tonight I
> started watching the IDC again. I
dropped it into 3rd and nailed it. I
> then watched the IDC climb to
100% and blink, it stayed there for 3
> seconds or so, till it settled
back down. The car did feel fine, but
> this doesn't sound
good.
This is why fuel upgrades should be considered early
on. Are you saying
that your IDC fell while you were still WOT in third
as RPMs climbed?
IDC demands should not decrease under these conditions,
which may shed
some light on your problem.
BTW, I am still running the stock fuel system and of
course also see
high IDC levels at high RPMs. But after running 1.0 bar
for 20K+ miles
I have yet to experience any ill-effects. So while you
needn't worry
too much, as you say, it doesn't sound good. And to think
that Supras
come with 550 injectors from the factory!
> When I was going through the Preset Boost Duty
Setting section, I recall
> the boost spiking to 1.1*. Somewhat
confused by the setup directions, I
> set it to setting B, 1 bar, and
hoped the self learning would take over.
The BADC setting controls temporary overboost, which,
if kept to
moderate levels, should be harmless. If you don't want any
overboost,
reduce the BADC setting until spiking is eliminated. I run
70-72% BADC,
which results in a temporary overboost to 1.05 bar before
settling back
to a sustained level of 1.00 bar.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
My '94 read 12.5 psi on an SPI gauge as measured from a
T in the FPR line at
the rear of the intake
plenum.
<snip>
Barry
====================================
'yo
Barry...
Thanks for the actual measurement. Was this 12.5psi
without a boost
controller? Stock setup (no mods)?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Right. No mods.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> My '94 read
12.5 psi on an SPI gauge as measured from a T in the
> FPR line
at
> the rear of the intake plenum.
> <snip>
>
>
Barry
> ====================================
> 'yo Barry...
>
> Thanks for the actual measurement. Was this 12.5psi without a
boost
> controller? Stock setup (no mods)?
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 08:06:01
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From:
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To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:20:22 -0800
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"Sigh. Nostalgia just isn't what it used to
be.........the older I get, the faster I was"
LOL
Man, that's the truth ---- for all of us!
:)
Steve Clarke
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 09:16:58
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Date:
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Henry,
> Factory Alarm
Sorry, no input because we do not have Alarm in the EU
cars.
> Canadian export ?
>
>
- My car is supposed to be a 92, canadian
export. The speedo is indeed
> with the Km/h in bigger font than the MPH,
but when I want to "flash" my
> headlights, and if the main
lights are off, then only the FOG lights will
> illuminate. And I CANNOT
have the foglights on, unless the main lights are
> in the UP
position..
Are you sure these are foglights ? In reality these are
drivinglights/high beams
because the fog lights where not homologated for our
streets and what you
describe is how it works. The mod is not complicated to
do this. Just have a
look at the manual and it'll be easy for
you.
> - The clima is
displaying in °F....and, hum, I'd prefer to have it in
> °C....any
trick ?
The last time I read about this was to change the whole
control unit to get this
working.
> - What control
is switching ON the anti fog of the external mirrors
> ...seems that some
days it's working, and some days...not !
Combined with the rear window defroster at the right
top side of the panel
(yellow LED when on)
Good post Ron, but methinks you have it backwards (or
maybe I'm
backwards ;)). Won't elongating the front mounting toward the
engine,
and elongating the lower A arm mount toward the wheel increase
negative
camber?
Ron Thompson wrote:
snip
> On the front you
must elongate the shock tower mounting holes to give
> extra positive
camber. This means make the holes longer toward the
> engine bay, not
toward the wheel. Do it nice and clean, don't widen
snip
>
> The rear you must elongate the
sub frame where the lower control arm
> attaches near the differential.
The upper arm has the cam adjuster for
> the camber adjustment and the
lower is fixed. Again, don't widen, just
> elongate, this time toward the
wheel. Make sure you keep the hole true
snip
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
Roger Gerl wrote:
> I found "RPS TURBO
CARBON" as one of the best solutions.
> list price $650 we can get
for under $460; the more people, the
> better the discount we can get
! I'll organize GP so clutches will be sent
> directly by
distributor who made offer located in US.
> price NOT include ship. I'll
update GP status
> every day and create web-site so can checkcurrent
price/how many people signed up.
> GP starts Saturday March 27; ends
Sunday April 4.
> email me (robby@swissonline.ch) I'll register
GP
> participants and post info when prices drop due to
> fact we
get more people than expected.
> Roger, Switzerland
This sounds like a great deal. I have the older
RPS Turbo Clutch, and
it held over 625hp at the wheels to 10-second
quartermiles; it did
occasionally slip but would recover. I spoke to
RPS and they say the
NEW carbon fiber material will hold 125hp ABOVE the
prior clutch, using
same pressure plate, so no more pedal effort, yet
is
slippable/streetable. They did say it would be at least 3
weeks
delivery due to backorder/getting materials, so sooner we sign up
the
earlier on the list we will be to get them!
I want one, if the
timeframe is ok...
Have you changed your fuel filter recently? It could
preventing flow enough to give the
high IDC readings.
Best
Darc
Roger Gerl wrote: -------------
snip
> I check out the local cost and also if they come
already painted or not !
>
The price is a good...however they always come
unpainted..so add paint to your total
investment. Still modifying these
is inexpensive compared to Bozz.
I am still hoping a team member with skill, facilities,
and ingenuity will come up with
a nice neat prefabricated insert (cutout
template included) for the back of our strut
tower blisters. Mmmm
...something like the side of the hood vents in the new Mustangs
(in that
case they're inoperable) , only made for our contour configuration. ;
) It
could prove to be a nice little on the side enterprize if
done with class.
Best
Darc
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Re: Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
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In the early dawning of spring Genesiscon Lehir
wrote:
snip
> -
> -
When the SECURITY is engaged, I can open either door with the key, no
>
problem. But if
> I open
the hatch with the key, then the alarm will trigger....normal ?
This glitch has occurred very intermittenly with me in
my Canadaian 92. 99.9% of the
time, opening the trunk with the alarm
activated will not set it off. On occassion it
has. Don't know the
problem and haven't bothered to sort through the electrical to work
it out. I
simply unlock a front door to deactivate it to avoid the possibity of
it
occurring (only has happened twice).
>
>
> Canadian export ?
Yep!
>
>
>
- My car is supposed to be a 92, canadian
export. The speedo is indeed with
> the
Km/h
> in bigger font than
the MPH, but when I want to "flash" my headlights, and
> if the
main
> lights are off,
then only the FOG lights will illuminate. And I CANNOT have
>
the
> foglights on, unless
the main lights are in the UP position...
Fog lights/driving lights are supposed to be on all of
the time on Canadian cars once
they are started up (Federal saftely
requirement) and they will only go off when the
main headlights are turned on
(or when you shut off the engine). Flashing from high to
low beam on
headlights should not be a problem, but you will always loose the
driving
lights when the main lights are turned on, and vice versa. If this is
not happening then
there is a problem from the Canadian standpoint (saftey
requirement).
>
>
>
- Given the king of speed I travel around,
I'd like to be able to have the
> foglights
on
> (for security), but
with the main headlights OFF (better
> aerodynamics)...any fix
to that ?
Hmmm this should not be this way. Was the car altered
from the Canadian standard for
import? A section in the manual deals with
Cnadian versions (and California versions)
check it out and see if yours has
been altered from that discribed.
>
>
>
- The clima is displaying in °F....and,
hum, I'd prefer to have it in
> °C....any trick ?
Strange eh. We use C here as well but the climate is
still in F, whereas the speedo is
in kms (miles in smaller figures behind the
kms). You'll have to live with the F like
the rest of us.
>
>
>
- What control is switching ON the anti fog
of the external mirrors...seems
> that
some days it's working, and some days...not
!
Dunno..may be automatic, as I haven't found it
either.
Best
Darc
>
> In the early dawning of spring Genesiscon Lehir
wrote:
>
> snip
>
> > -
> >
- When the SECURITY is engaged, I can open
either door
> with the key, no
> > problem. But if
>
> I open the hatch with the
key, then the alarm will
> trigger....normal ?
>
> This glitch
has occurred very intermittenly with me in my
> Canadaian 92. 99.9%
of the
> time, opening the trunk with the alarm activated will not
set it
> off. On occassion it
> has. Don't know the problem and
haven't bothered to sort through
> the electrical to work
> it out.
I simply unlock a front door to deactivate it to avoid
> the possibity of
it
> occurring (only has happened twice).
snip
One suggestion i could give to avoid the trunk going
off is turn the key all
the way to the right, and hold it there while you
open the trunk with your
hand. once the hatch clears the locking mechanism
and the pinswitch, take
the key out.
Omar
92 r/t
Reply inserted below ...
On 24 Mar 99, at 12:48,
Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
> Factory Alarm
>
> - I can have the
SECURITY light activated when I depress the passenger's
> door lock,
but NOT when I lock the car with the key....normal ?
No. Your lock switch us dirty. Try some penetrating oil
or take it apart and clean it.
> - When the SECURITY is engaged, I can open either
door with the key, no
> problem. But if I open the hatch with the
key, then the alarm will trigger....normal ?
Your hatch lock switch is dirty or you didn't turn the
key far enough. It is possible to
open the hatch without disarming the
alarm. You need to turn the key all the way until it
stops to disarm the
alarm.
>
> Canadian export ?
>
> - My
car is supposed to be a 92, canadian export. The speedo is indeed
> with
the Km/h in bigger font than the MPH, but when I want to "flash"
my headlights,
> and if the main lights are off, then only the
FOG lights will illuminate. And I CANNOT
> have the foglights
on, unless the main lights are in the UP position...
Hmmm... I agree with Darc. Canadian cars have the
driving lights on all the time and the
can only be switched off if you turn
on the headlights and turn them off using the switch
on the
dash.
>
> - Given the king of speed I travel
around, I'd like to be able to have the
> foglights on (for
security), but with the main headlights OFF (better
> aerodynamics)...any
fix to that ?
This should be normal Canadian
behaviour...
>
> - The clima is displaying in
°F....and, hum, I'd prefer to have it in
> °C....any trick
?
Sorry... buy a new one.
> - What
control is switching ON the anti fog of the external
> mirrors...seems
that some days it's working, and some days...not !
It's on with the rear defog.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 17:45:19
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To:
"Stealth-star" <stealth@starnet.net>,
"pro" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 19:45:37 -0600
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Surfing across the web, i came across this product.
Might be useful to those
concerned about the oil that enters the intake
system through the crankcase
breather hose. Take a look at this breather
filter system..
Most of their stuff is for tractor trailers and
stuff.
Omar
92 r/t
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 18:07:12
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:06:36
-0600
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>I have found someone who might be able to fabricate
an exhaust system
>without worrying about certain niggling little
rules.
>
>If he agrees, I'm going to have him gut my precats, remove
the cat, and
>build a new exhaust system.
>I'll store the old
exhaust, cat and all, in case my state invokes annual
>emission
inspections.
>
>Question: Will gutting and removing the cats do
anything nasty? I know I
>might get flames out the back, but are there any
other problems to worry
>about?
>
>Rich/old poop/plural
champion/94 VR4
This "Poor old poop's" question is:
What does the
elimination of the cats (both pre and main),
do to the
computations the OEM ECU makes?
Is the timing, a/f ratio, or anything
changed?
Thanks for any info; the vehicle of which I speak
is a '95 3K
VR-4.
Regards ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 18:08:50
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
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I already have one. Otherwise I would joining on this
GP. Looks awesome.I Have
not had it installed yet so I can't comment on what
HP it will hold. It took
about 2 months to get. Be patient.
Arty 91
VR-4
In a message dated 3/24/99 5:52:35 PM Eastern Standard
Time, xwing@execpc.com
writes:
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 18:52:10
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Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:55:13 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
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I can answer two of these. The alarm arms when you lock
the car and
will disarm when using the key to unlock. If it goes off when you
open
the deck lid, try holding down the hatch till you turn the key all
the
way. Mine does this if I just turn it part way and it pops up
too
fast.
There is a mod for getting the fog lights on without
the head lights
on. Either on 3000GT.com or 3SI.org.
I live in Kentucky 15 miles south of Cincinnati, OH and
work for a
Canadian company out of Mississuaga.
Ah, that would be an affirmative there Ken. I must have
been typing in
mirror image. Shouldn't stay up so late reading this list.
YES. Ken is
right. I screwed up. Negative camber is wheel squat and to bring
it
back to positive or neutral You MUST elongate the holes in the
front
TOWARDS the wheel and the rear towards the differential.
So guys, ah any credibility left here?????
Ron-a-roid
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> Good post Ron, but
methinks you have it backwards (or maybe I'm
> backwards ;)). Won't
elongating the front mounting toward the engine,
> and elongating the
lower A arm mount toward the wheel increase negative
> camber?
>
> Ron Thompson wrote:
> snip
> > On the front you must
elongate the shock tower mounting holes to give
> > extra positive
camber. This means make the holes longer toward the
> > engine bay, not
toward the wheel. Do it nice and clean, don't widen
>
>
snip
> >
> > The rear you must elongate the sub frame where
the lower control arm
> > attaches near the differential. The upper arm
has the cam adjuster for
> > the camber adjustment and the lower is
fixed. Again, don't widen, just
> > elongate, this time toward the
wheel. Make sure you keep the hole true
> snip
>
> --
>
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
>
> Ken
Middaugh
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> (619)
455-4510
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Check out what I found....
http://www.wps.com/LPG/LPG-carb-size.html
It's
a formula for calculating cfm on forced induction engines. I don't know if
it's
applicable for our engine but at 15 psi I get a max flow of 752cfm or
376cfm per turbo.
I think this means that at 15 psi 15Gs are perfect
(although a little large) and the
GT355s that flow 423cfm are
overkill.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
91 R/T TT
james berry wrote:
> this is an attempted engineering analysis of the
turbo
> size/flow issue. The numbers I'm using were posted by
>
others and may not be correct --- it matters not !
> The basic principle
is correct.
>
> The three turbos talked about are ---- [ Approximate
values ]
> 9B --- 300 CFM at 15 PSI
> 13G--- 365
CFM at 15 PSI
> 15G---400 CFM at 15
PSI
> The key at this point is that all three are rated at 15 PSI,
our
> 1 BAR target boost level.
>
> The rating for the 9B
implies that it can provide from 0 to 300
> Cubic Feet per Minute and
still maintain a boost level of at least
> 15 PSI. It further implies that
for flow rates beyond 300 CFM the
> pressure will not be 15 PSI. In
fact if you exceed the rated flow
> the boost will drop. How much --
I don't know, although I'm sure
> charts exist that cover its full
operational range.Similarly the
> 13g and 15 G are rated 365 CFM and
400 CFM.
>
> The pressurized air created is routed to the intake
plenum via
> the intercoolers [ more later ] and the throttle body. The
throttle
> body cares not how this pressure was generated ---- it
doesn't
> care if its a 9 B a 15 G or a six pack of gerbils on a
treadmill.
> What the throttle body does care about though is CFM
--- if the
> engine is demanding more than 300 CFM then the 9B
cannot
> provide that amount of air at our 15 PSI target. The result ??
A
> drop in boost pressure. To get in excess of 300 CFM you need
> a
larger turbo!!
>
> The increase in the temperature of the air in the
induction system
> is primarily because the air was compressed. Boyles law
sez there
> is a fixed relationship between pressure, volume and
temperature.
> e.g. if you increase the temperature in a fixed
volume then the
> pressure goes up. if you increase the
pressure in a fixed volume
> the temperature goes up [ our case ].
If you increase volume at a
> fixed temperature then pressure goes down
etc.etc.
>
> In our case some additional heating is caused by the
turbo housing,
> being driven by exhaust it has to retain heat.
additionally some heat
> is picked up as a result of the high heat in the
engine compartment.
> The major source of heat however, is that
caused by pressurization
> of air in the turbo --- again it makes no
difference if the pressure is
> created by the 15G or our steroid enhanced
gerbils. The job of the
> intercooler is to reduce the intake charge
temperature and thus
> maximize the charge density.
>
> Bottom
line ---- It appears as though our cars exceed the 300 CFM
> level sence
boost drops at high RPM with the stock turbo.
> The 9 B is fine as long as
you don't need sustained
> boost of 15 PSI beyond the 300 CFM level.
If you want 20 PSI for
> Autobahn speed runs then bigger is better.
.
>
> The ability to calculate the flow rate based on displacement,
RPM,
> volumetric efficiency,charge density etc. etc. probably
requires
> a suprecomputer and is best left to the automotive engineering
folk.
>
>
Jim
> ------93
"arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
>
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
>
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
>
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 19:48:12
1999
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Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
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Roger;
Mark me down for one as well. That makes you, me and
Jack, so far, and the 3 GP quota
has been met. Anyting after this is gravy
and the price should drop further, am I right?
E-mail particulars personally.
Thanks
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Mar 24 21:35:30
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From: "Jose Soriano"
<amahoser@linkline.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re:RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:54:58
-0800
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Just before I checked my e-mail I ordered a RPS Turbo
Carbon Clutch from
Accelerated Accessories. OOPs, bad timing on my part! It
must have been 2
minutes after I ordered the clutch that I check my e-mail to
find out that
you guys are trying to do a group purchase. Well, you might
wanna try to do
a group purchase from Accererated Accessories because little
ol' me just got
it from them for $450, and I ordered only one. The clutch IS
backordered for
3 weeks though.... and the clutch will be dropped shipped to
me from RPS.
>
> Roger Gerl wrote:
> > I
found "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the best solutions.
> >
list price $650 we can get for under $460; the more people, the
> >
better the discount we can get ! I'll organize GP so clutches will
be
sent
> > directly by distributor who made offer located in
US.
> > price NOT include ship. I'll update GP status
For your interest when doing the mod :
The hood scoops list @ 36.28 each, your price being
$27.21. The gaskets
for the scoops list @ $ 7.79, your price being
$5.84. We can do either COD or
Credit Card whichever you prefer.
Thanks for responding to our ad!
Dave Daniels
Conicelli Mitsubishi
(800)
892-8994
-------------
I check out the local cost and also if they come
already painted or not !
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 00:00:00
1999
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Message-ID: <36F8BFF5.9A5F3379@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:35:33 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
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Friends, ... here's a little easter gift for your
beloved car !
More power = more problems with the stock clutch. This
equation is very true and
therefore it's time for a new clutch. I shopped
around a little bit and found
the "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the
best solutions. Till today I only heard
good things about it and I think it's
a really good choice.
The list price is around $650 (ouch) but we can get it
for ..... under $460 ....
when more than 3 people do join the GP ! But for
sure, the more people the
better the discount we can get ! The GP also
includes the cheaper "RPS Turbo"
and the "RPS Carbon"
(for the NA people who need a new clutch or run on NO2) and
the price will be
around $420 or less but the price for the TURBO CARBON is very
good in my
opinion.
I'll try to organize the GP while the clutches will be
sent to the participants
directly by the distributor who made the great offer
to us located in the US.
Please note that the price do NOT include shipping.
I'll update the GP status
every day and will also create a web-site on my
pages before the GP starts on
Saturday so everyone can check out the current
price and how many people are
signed up. I'll post the link when it is
ready.
The GP starts on Saturday, March 27 1999 and ends
Sunday, April 4 1999. We
haven't planned to make the GP longer and after this
date the selling price
increases again above $520 street price !
So, everyone who likes the power to be distributed to
the tranny correctly
should email me personally(robby@swissonline.ch). I'll register the
GP
participants and will post more information when the prices drops due to
the
fact that we are getting more people than expected.
I hope this helps a little in money
saving,
Regards,
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT ... too
much power is comming for the stock clutch :)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 00:04:41
1999
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Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:05:15 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> This "Poor old poop's" question
is: What does the
> elimination of the cats (both pre and
main),
> do to the computations the OEM ECU makes?
> Is the timing,
a/f ratio, or anything changed?
No, it only may take a little longer until the O2
sensors are heated up. This
may end it a rougher idle when the car is
cold.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 00:07:11
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Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:08:39 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
References: <f5858eee.36f99a81@aol.com> <36F9B186.BC07AA89@bc.sympatico.ca>
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Hey Darc,
> Mark me down for one as well. That makes you, me
and Jack, so far, and the
> 3 GP quota has been met.
We are 5 at leats !
> Anyting after this is gravy and the price should
drop further, am I right?
True, we're on $450 now and I hope to get 10 people
together.
Maybe somebody can send this to the other lists as well
?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 00:09:40
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Message-ID: <36F9EF87.5F614A44@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:10:47 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re:RPS clutch Group Purchase !
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Hey Jose,
Thanks for the information !!!!!
> Well, you might wanna try to do a group purchase
from Accererated Accessories
> because little ol' me just got it from them
for $450, and I ordered only one.
You already got the group purchase price,
hehe.
> Are you saying that your IDC fell while you were
still WOT in third as RPMs climbed?
IDC demands should not decrease under
these conditions, which may shed some light on
your problem.
This particular time I was watching, yes. I
assumed this was a result of boost dropping
and there not being a requirement
for more fuel.
Unfortunately, the car is no longer a daily driver, and
I may not be as 'in-tune' with
it as I thought. Perhaps it's still
learning, I'll just have to do some testing with
the controller on and
off.
Jason
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:27:11 -0500
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Tranny Question
In-Reply-To: <36FA462B.8E2CA6D6@erols.com>
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Driving home last night, I noticed that the stick on my
manny-tranny was
rocking back and forth as I would press and release the gas
pedal. It
only happened in 5th gear, and was most noticeable above 60
mph. When I
(gently
Is this a "sign of the end", or something
less ominous? Could it be a
symptom of a broken motor
mount?
Experience is something you don't get until just after
you need it.
Actually, i'm thinking it will set a check engine
light, because he was
talking about doing this on a 95 model i belive. 95's
have 02 sensors
before and after the pre-cats, if you remove the cats, the
ECU will know
because the signals will be the same, before and after. If i'm
wrong about
95 having 4 sensors, then forget i said anything....
Wayne
At 09:05 AM 3/25/99 +0100, you wrote:
>> This
"Poor old poop's" question is: What does the
>>
elimination of the cats (both pre and main),
>> do to the computations
the OEM ECU makes?
>> Is the timing, a/f ratio, or anything
changed?
>
>No, it only may take a little longer until the O2
sensors are heated up. This
>may end it a rougher idle when the car is
cold.
>
>Regards,
>Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 06:57:19
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:57:10 -0500
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny Question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.95.990325092107.963C-100000@sherrill.kiva.net>
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Guess I should finish the first
paragraph...
When the shifter is "rocked backwards", if I
(gently) press it forward, I
meet with resistance. If I were to force it
forward, it would feels like
it would start grinding.
Suggestions welcome
Experience is something you don't get until just after
you need it.
On Thu, 25 Mar 1999, Dennis Moore wrote:
> Driving home last night, I noticed that the stick
on my manny-tranny was
> rocking back and forth as I would press and
release the gas pedal. It
> only happened in 5th gear, and was most
noticeable above 60 mph. When I
> (gently
>
> Is this a
"sign of the end", or something less ominous? Could it be
a
> symptom of a broken motor mount?
>
> Dennis Moore
>
stealth@kiva.net
> 93 Stealth
ES
>
> Experience is something you don't get until just after you
need it.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 08:08:20
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: alarm, climate temperature display (was: Paint follow up and
questions)
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<004301be7581$1e5572e0$3ce786cd@BobForrest> <199903250006.TAA01708@host.kw.igs.net>
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Bill Miller wrote:
>
> Genesiscon Lehir
wrote:
>
> > - When the SECURITY is
engaged, I can open either door with the key, no
> > problem. But
if I open the hatch with the key, then the alarm will trigger....normal
?
>
> Your hatch lock switch is dirty or you didn't turn the key
far enough. It is possible to
> open the hatch without disarming the
alarm. You need to turn the key all the way until it
> stops to disarm the
alarm.
If you disarm the alarm in this way (key in hatch,
hatch open, no doors
opened), will the alarm rearm when the hatch is
closed?
> > - The clima is
displaying in °F....and, hum, I'd prefer to have it in
> >
°C....any trick ?
Not sure how to switch the display, but mine reads
°F and Roger's reads
°C!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 08:10:22
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Subject:
Team3S: Redline engine oil
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 17:08:27
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Hi
Have anyone tested Redline ENGINE oil ?
10-30 or 10-40?
/Mikael
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 10:19:41
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Yes...I've used 10-30 for all but the first 3000
miles. When I had some
work done a couple of years ago, the mechanic
said that all of the bearings
looked great after 70K miles.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 10:52:59
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Team3S: Active Exhaust
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Quick question about the Active
Exhaust....
My car has sat all winter and I seem to remember
exhaust coming out of each
side of the exhaust. Last night I took it
out for the first time this year
and I only have exhaust coming out of the
drivers side(I could see the
vapor, it was about 30 degrees)
I'm not sure if the switch even works. The light
on the dash changes from
nothing to tour if I switch it, but I do not hear
anything(Servos, etc)
switching in the back.
It was my understanding that the exhaust defaulted to
sport and you had to
switch it to tour(which I never did) so, if it is
rusted, it should be
rusted in sport(I would think.)
Anyway...I should be seeing exhaust out of both sides
right??
Thanks,
Quick question about the Active
Exhaust....
<snip>
It was my understanding that the exhaust defaulted to
sport and you had to
switch it to tour(which I never did) so, if it is
rusted, it should be
rusted in sport(I would think.)
Anyway...I should be seeing exhaust out of both sides
right??
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
=================================
Mark...
I'm not the best to answer this, since the feature was
dropped by 95, but
it's my understanding that it automatically switched at a
certain speed. In
either case, since the exhaust is not truly a dual, the
right side (which
involves two 90 degree bends and adds three or four feet of
metal) is always
going to produce much less vapor and/or emissions than the
shorter, more
direct route on the left. Was someone revving the engine for
you? As I
recall, my stock exhaust never produced any output on the right
side at an
idle.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 11:40:31
1999
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If I recall, the tour setting is the standard setting.
Not sport. The motor
when activated sets into sport mode. If the motor dies
you'd be left in tour,
not sport mode.
Arty 91 VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 11:54:20
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According to my service manual, when car is started the
exhaust goes
back to sport mode. Also above 3500 rpm, the exhaust goes
into sport
mode automatically even if you have the tour mode set
on.
But more definitely, in sport mode you should only see
gases coming out
of the driver's side. In tour mode both
sides.
I hope this helps,
Jose
Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
>
> If I recall, the tour setting is the standard setting.
Not sport. The motor
> when activated sets into sport mode. If the motor
dies you'd be left in tour,
> not sport mode.
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
>> From: Wendlandt, Mark (MN51) [mailto:MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com]
>>
Subject: Team3S: Active Exhaust
>>
>> Quick question
about the Active Exhaust....
>> <snip>
>>
>> It was my understanding that the exhaust defaulted to sport
and you had to
>> switch it to tour(which I never did) so, if it
is rusted, it should be
>> rusted in sport(I would
think.)
>>
>> Anyway...I should be seeing exhaust out
of both sides right??
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
I'm interested in the purchase, but have a question.
WHat does this come
with? I assume we keep the stock flywheel, but how about
the other parts
(disk obviously, pressure plate, ???)
Thanks
Todd 91 RT/TT
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> Friends, ... here's
a little easter gift for your beloved car !
>
> More power = more
problems with the stock clutch. This equation is very true and
> therefore
it's time for a new clutch. I shopped around a little bit and found
> the
"RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the best solutions. Till today I only
heard
> good things about it and I think it's a really good
choice.
--
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
-You
"put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your
thoughts"
-Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
I'll be getting a handheld infrared thermometer
soon.
Have any of you have ever used one to help set up or
diagnose a road race
car?.
If so, please forward any tips on using it to check
tires, brakes and so
on; i.e., what do you scan, where, how, and what does
the data tell you?
On a tire, for example, I suppose I would take temps
across the profile.
But what does that tell me? What do I do if one part is
hotter than another?
How fast do you have to make the measurements?
Immediately upon leaving the
track? Or can it wait until we get back to the
paddock?
All advice welcome.
> On a tire, for example, I suppose I would take
temps across the profile.
> But what does that tell me? What do I do if
one part is hotter than another?
For tires, it tells you if your camber and inflation
pressure is
correct. The idea is to adjust these paramters until the
temperature is
the same in the center and both edges. Before you take
the measurement,
you are supposed to heat up the tires on the track with hard
cornering
(since that is no doubt what you're trying to maximize),
then
immediately take the measurements. I've heard of taking
these
temperatures using a tire pyrometer but not an infrared
thermometer.
Good luck and let us know how it
goes,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 15:17:10
1999
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From:
Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
To:
"Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: looking for spark plugs
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:22:07
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Still looking for more feedback on the best plugs to
use. Have a 91 VR4. Barry advised that the NGKs worked well for him
( PFR6J-11 ). Have seen several others using HKS - have not heard of
them. What is your experience? Where can I find them?
Pete
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 15:22:11
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From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:24:52
-0500
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hey Roger, should i burn up the centerforce so I
can get one of these.:)
>Friends, ... here's a little easter gift for
your beloved car !
>
>More power = more problems with the stock
clutch. This equation is very
true and
>therefore it's time for a new
clutch. I shopped around a little bit and
found
>the "RPS TURBO
CARBON" as one of the best solutions. Till today I
only
heard
>good things about it and I think it's a really good
choice.
>
>The list price is around $650 (ouch) but we can get it
for ..... under $460
....
>when more than 3 people do join the GP ! But
for sure, the more people the
>better the discount we can get ! The GP
also includes the cheaper "RPS
Turbo"
>and the "RPS
Carbon" (for the NA people who need a new clutch or run on
NO2)
and
>the price will be around $420 or less but the price for the TURBO
CARBON is
very
>good in my opinion.
>
>I'll try to organize
the GP while the clutches will be sent to the
participants
>directly by
the distributor who made the great offer to us located in
the
US.
>Please note that the price do NOT include shipping. I'll
update the GP
status
>every day and will also create a web-site on my
pages before the GP starts
on
>Saturday so everyone can check out the
current price and how many people
are
>signed up. I'll post the link
when it is ready.
>
>The GP starts on Saturday, March 27 1999 and
ends Sunday, April 4 1999. We
>haven't planned to make the GP longer and
after this date the selling price
>increases again above $520 street price
!
>
>So, everyone who likes the power to be distributed to the
tranny correctly
>should email me personally(robby@swissonline.ch). I'll register the
GP
>participants and will post more information when the prices drops due
to
the
>fact that we are getting more people than
expected.
>
>I hope this helps a little in money
saving,
>
>Regards,
>Roger, Switzerland
>93'3000GT ...
too much power is comming for the stock clutch :)
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 15:30:47
1999
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From: VR4Power@aol.com
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Date:
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Subject: Team3S: Lots of parts for sale
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OK guys, poor old Adam has some more parts he needs to
sell ASAP... So if you
are interested in any of these, please e-mail me
directly at
VR4POWER@aol.com...
I have the following for sale, all are in perfect
condition:
1 HKS EVC III Electronic Boost Controller
1 APEX Super AFC Fuel Computer
1 APEX ITC Ignition Timing Controller
1 HKS Peak Hold EGT Gauge
1 HKS Peak Hold Boost Gauge
1 K&N Air Fuel Ratio Gauge
1 HKS Upgraded Intank Fuel Pump
6 Stock Fuel Injectors
6 RC Engineering 560 cc Fuel Injectors
I think that's it for now... E-mail me for
prices....
Thank You,
> snip
>
> Is this a "sign of
the end", or something less ominous? Could it be a
> symptom of
a broken motor mount?
>
Sounds like your motor mount/s tranny mount...check all
of em.
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Ryner [mailto:pryner@ij.net]
Sent: Thursday, March
25, 1999 3:22 PM
To: Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: looking for
spark plugs
Still looking for more feedback on the best plugs to
use. Have a 91 VR4.
Barry advised that the NGKs worked well for him (
PFR6J-11 ). Have seen
several others using HKS - have not heard of
them. What is your experience?
Where can I find them?
Pete
=========================
Pete...
I'm using the HKS double platinum plugs. I was told
they are made by NGK. I
bought one range colder than stock. If you want the
exact part number,
e-mail me privately, and I'll check tonight. They've been
in the car for 18
months (about 8K miles) and are working great. I pulled the
front bank two
months ago and found them to be in great shape (gap holding on
the money). I
purchased them locally (Portland, OR) for half the price of the
NGK brand (I
paid $7.00 a plug, the NGK were quoted at $14.00 a plug). It
seems there's a
WIDE variation in what people are paying for
NGKs.
One interesting side note, they have a reddish brown
deposit on them. When
asking around about this, I was told this is the result
of using octane
booster. Not sure if this is true, but they weren't fouled,
just discolored.
Anyone else experience this?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 16:20:54
1999
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Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:20:56 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: looking for spark plugs
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hi All,
I have the Greddy plugs, and they are also made
by NGK.
George
> Pete...
>
> I'm using the HKS double
platinum plugs. I was told
> they are made by NGK. I
> bought one
range colder than
stock.
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE76F5.99C2D420
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Chris,
Thanks for the info. I'd like the part
number if available. The best =
price I've found so far is at Pep Boys
at about $18 for the NGK which =
are special order. I've seen ads for
the bosch quad tip platinum but =
have seen no feedback on how they
are. I see you have Magnecore wires =
and have a beefed up throttle
body. Can you give any tips in those =
areas? I don't know if you
saw my first email, but I am experiencing a =
loss of acceleration.
Sometimes the throttle pedal pushes back on my =
foot and I lose
performance. The plugs have never been changed and the =
throttle body
never cleaned. I have around 50K on the car. I had it in =
the
shop last year to replace the lifters (under warranty) and had them =
change
the timing belt and tensioner as a precaution. Any advice on how =
to
best clean the throttle body, or is it just best to take it to
=
someone. I've done a lot of work on older cars, but haven't had to
=
touch a car since I bought this one as I had purchased an extended
=
warranty which finally expired last year. Thanks for any help you can
=
provide.
Pete
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Ryner [mailto:pryner@ij.net]
Sent: Thursday, March
25, 1999 3:22 PM
To: Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: looking for
spark plugs
Still looking for more feedback on the best plugs to
use. Have a 91 =
VR4.
Barry advised that the NGKs worked well for
him ( PFR6J-11 ). Have seen
several others using HKS - have not heard
of them. What is your =
experience?
Where can I find them?
=20
Pete
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
Pete...
I'm using the HKS double platinum plugs. I was told
they are made by =
NGK. I
bought one range colder than stock. If you want
the exact part number,
e-mail me privately, and I'll check tonight. They've
been in the car for =
18
months (about 8K miles) and are working great. I
pulled the front bank =
two
months ago and found them to be in great shape
(gap holding on the =
money). I
purchased them locally (Portland, OR) for
half the price of the NGK =
brand (I
paid $7.00 a plug, the NGK were
quoted at $14.00 a plug). It seems =
there's a
WIDE variation in what
people are paying for NGKs.
One interesting side note, they have a reddish brown
deposit on them. =
When
asking around about this, I was told this is the
result of using octane
booster. Not sure if this is true, but they weren't
fouled, just =
discolored.
Anyone else experience this?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator =
dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, =
HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034",
GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test
pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE76F5.99C2D420--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 16:39:43
1999
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From:
"Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Organization:
Very little ... as always
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:39:39 -0500
Subject: (Fwd) Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT
Hood Insulation
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bulk
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Forwarded message:
From:
Self <Single-user mode>
To: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Reply-to: millebi@kw.igs.net
Date: Mon, 22 Mar
1999 21:43:14 -0500
If anyone is interested in a way to see the air flow
all you need to do is :
1. Get a bunch of pieces of wool (1"-2") and
some tape (100 mph should work ;) )
2. Tape the wool to the hood (only one
end!) at reasonably spaced intervals (6" grid)
3. Have a friend take a
ride with you on a low wind day and note the pattern that the
wool is
making. (Separate car or same car... just use some common sense and don't run
anyone else off the road while making notes.)
If you see the wool being held in a reasonably straight
line then that is the air flow at
that point. If the wool is flipping around
all over the place then the air is quite
turbulent at that place. If the
wool points in an upward direction and isn't lying flat
against the car then
you can expect that the air movement is "swirling" at that point. If
you want to see if you're getting air exiting or entering the engine, take
off one of the
strut tower covers and tape some of the wool around it. If
the wool gets sucked into the
hole then you won't get any air exhausted from
that point.
What this means is that your best bet for getting air
exhausted from the engine
compartment is where the wool is a reasonably
straight.
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
On 22 Mar 99, at 20:48, William Lynn Larsen
wrote:
> Actually, I think that Wayne is right. Like he
said the area right at the
> base of the windshield is a high pressure
area. As the air comes over the
> hood and runs into the windshield, even
with its slope, it dams up and
> creates a high pressure area. Also
like he said, if you take out the seal
> at the back of the hood, the air
will actually be forced down into the
> engine area. I think the front dam
under the nose causes the air coming in
> through the radiator area to be
drawn back down and exit underneath and
> out the sides of the car.
The question becomes how much pressure is there
> and how much would it
take to overcome it?? I think if you vent at the
> strut blisters
you will be forward of this high pressure area enough to
> extract
air. I am not an expert and experiments would have to be run to
>
know for sure, but I did get a degree in engineering for what it's
worth.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
Hmmm... you should be hearing a servo
"buzzing" when you flip the switch. If you don't
your servo is
probably bad. Take the square panel off of the driver's side rear just
behind the strut in the trunk. This is where the servo is located. Have
someone start the
car and flip the switch on and off. If the servo isn't
rotating then your problem is
electrical or the servo is jammed.
If the servo moves and you see the cable bunch up
instead of disappearing into it's hole
then you're right... it's rusted and
some penetrating oil will free it up.
If the servo moves and the cable does move properly
then you have to crawl under and have
a look at the "valve" and
see why it doesn't move.
If it's stuck then you're correct and it should be
stuck in "Sport" and not tour. BTW:
You should hear the servo move
when you start the car if you leave the switch in Tour.
The computer
switches during starting.
Good luck.
Bill
91 TT "Old
Red"
On 25 Mar 99, at 12:52, Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)
wrote:
> Quick question about the Active
Exhaust....
>
> I'm not sure if the switch even works. The
light on the dash changes from
> nothing to tour if I switch it, but I do
not hear anything(Servos, etc)
> switching in the back.
>
>
It was my understanding that the exhaust defaulted to sport and you had
to
> switch it to tour(which I never did) so, if it is rusted, it should
be
> rusted in sport(I would think.)
>
> Anyway...I should be
seeing exhaust out of both sides right??
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 16:49:04
1999
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Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:49:02 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization:
General Atomics - Fusion Division
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To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
References: <01BE76F5.99B9AC60@p40-83.tnt-1.ij.net>
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hi again Pete,
> The best price I've found so far is at Pep Boys at
about $18 for the NGK
As Barry mentioned, these plugs can be had for about
$10 & change each.
I also believe there was a post in reply to your
original post that said
they sell the plugs for $10.00, but I don't remember
who sent it.
A VR4 is expensive to maintain as you can see by the
price of the
plugs. It is imperative that you establish a relationship
with one of
the dealers that sells stock parts (including NGK spark plugs) at
a
15-20% discount to list members.
Here are a few:
1. Lou Fusz Mitsu
1-800-528-2525, ask for Greg or Marty. They're in
Saint
Louis
2. Rockland Mitsu 1-914-353-2100, ask for Terry. They're in
New York
City
3. West Broad Mitsu 1-800-229-1001, they're in
Virginia
4. Tallahassee Mitsu 1-888-825-5648 (1-888-tall-mit)
They're in
Florida.
I've had numerous good dealings with Tallahassee
Mitsubishi.
Good luck,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
Dennis Moore wrote:
> stick on tranny was
rocking back/forth as press/release gas pedal. It
> only happened in
5th, was most noticeable above 60 mph.
> "sign of the
end", or less ominous?
> symptom of a broken motor mount?
>
Dennis Moore 93 Stealth ES
Could be broken motormount, even with the cable
shifter.
Doubtful it is anything inside the trans.
Unless it is alot,
could be something to ignore, but check motormounts.
Let us know what it
is/how it goes after month or 2...
Jack T.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 18:56:34
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:44:06
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
>
>> The best price I've found so far is at
Pep Boys at about $18 for the NGK
>
>As Barry mentioned, these plugs
can be had for about $10 & change each.
>I also believe there was a
post in reply to your original post that said
>they sell the plugs for
$10.00, but I don't remember who sent it.
>
>A VR4 is expensive to
maintain as you can see by the price of the
>plugs>
come on guys!! these plugs should be
good for 60K miles.
Some quick math shows about 1/10 cent per mile. In
terms of overall
cost per mile that ain't too bad.
P.S. if your cheep you
could probably go 100,000.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 19:08:55
1999
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Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:08:51 -0800
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:54:50
-0700
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>Friends, ... here's a little easter gift for your
beloved car !
>
>More power = more problems with the stock clutch.
This equation is very
true and
>therefore it's time for a new clutch. I
shopped around a little bit and
found
>the "RPS TURBO CARBON"
as one of the best solutions. Till today I only
heard
>good things
about it and I think it's a really good choice.
>
I'll take one also -- I don't need it for a while
but it looks like the
price
is right!! Question?? How streetable is
the carbon? While my current
mods are modest, I, like others have
big plans. [ a lottery win about
now would help ]. My car is driven daily by
me and my wife and while it's
not our primary transportation it's the most
fun.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth
TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
Hey Jason;
There may be some slight difference in your first
generation installation over the
installation in Barry's, Jim's or Errin's
second generation cars. Certainly the wiring
jacks in the ECU are different.
So, perhaps you can run through a quick check list with
Jack, as I believe
his is a first generation with an Apexi, and there may be a glitch
you/we are
not catching that he worked out. I am still setting and resetting mine
(1G)
for what I believe should be better optimum performance. It may be
as I noted
previously, that it needs an extended fine tuning self learn
cycle, which I insistently
interrupt with new settings. And perhaps you are
doing the same. Jack?
Best
Darc
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hey Jason;
>
> There may be some slight difference in your
first generation...
snip
Kinda doubt it, mine's a 94 :P I ran it through
the learning phase
again, took it out on the highway and nailed it through
3rd and part of
4th, then nailed it in 6th. I did this a few times, and
it seems to be
only dropping down to .7 most often now, although it did drop
down to
.49 at one point. It's hard to say, but it seems that it's
staying at
or around 1 atmosphere longer. Still kinda hard for me to
say whether I
can actually feel a difference now, I don't drive it as hard as
before
the mods, shift it kinda slowly now, so it might not feel quite as
fast
due to that. I wasn't able to spend much time with it, but it does
seem
to want to max the injectors in 2nd for several seconds. I haven't
yet
changed my fuel filter, but would the ecu know that there wasn't as
much
fuel getting to the injectors? I was under the impression, that
with
bigger injectors, the fuel mapping is the same. That would tell me
that
the ecu assumes that the injectors are the same and that the
injectors
are getting the same amount of fuel and it wouldn't matter if the
fuel
filter wasn't passing enough or not, it'd be maxxed anyway. Am I
wrong?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 21:57:43
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999
22:58:06 -0700
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The ECU is programmed to deliver fuel based on
airflow. In closed loop mode
(where the ECU reads the O2 sensor voltage
cross counts) the ECU will trim
fuel up or down in an attempt to get a close
to optimal mixture based on its
internal maps.
The stock ECU fuel tables expect stock injectors.
With larger than stock
injectors, in open loop mode, and without some sort of
"fuel computer", the
ECU will generate injector pulses appropriate
for stock injectors and
therefore deliver too much fuel. If you are
running way too rich due to
uncorrected large injectors it could result in
power loss. The ECU will
still be operating on the assumption that
smaller injectors are in place and
still think it is maxing out the
injectors, even though way too much fuel
may be being delivered. If the
AVC-R is seeing 90% IDC or more it will drop
out of learn mode.
The duty cycle is a measure of the on time for the
injectors. So, the ECU
really doesn't know how much fuel is being
delivered except by pulse width
and known flow rates for the stock injectors,
all of which is hardcoded in
the ECU.
Also, stock turbos typically won't hold much more than
10-12 psi as the
engine RPMs approach redline. On my '94 when it had
stock turbos, 12 PSI
was the most I ever saw at 7000 RPM and it was usually a
bit less. However,
you should be seeing your 1.00 bar well above 5500
RPM. If you have 15Gs
then 1.00 bar to redline would be
expected.
Hope that helps.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
>
> > Hey Jason;
> >
> > There may be some slight
difference in your first generation...
>
> snip
>
>
Kinda doubt it, mine's a 94 :P I ran it through the learning phase
>
again, took it out on the highway and nailed it through 3rd and part of
>
4th, then nailed it in 6th. I did this a few times, and it seems to
be
> only dropping down to .7 most often now, although it did drop down
to
> .49 at one point. It's hard to say, but it seems that it's
staying at
> or around 1 atmosphere longer. Still kinda hard for me
to say whether I
> can actually feel a difference now, I don't drive it as
hard as before
> the mods, shift it kinda slowly now, so it might not feel
quite as fast
> due to that. I wasn't able to spend much time with
it, but it does seem
> to want to max the injectors in 2nd for several
seconds. I haven't yet
> changed my fuel filter, but would the ecu
know that there wasn't as much
> fuel getting to the injectors? I
was under the impression, that with
> bigger injectors, the fuel mapping
is the same. That would tell me that
> the ecu assumes that the
injectors are the same and that the injectors
> are getting the same
amount of fuel and it wouldn't matter if the fuel
> filter wasn't passing
enough or not, it'd be maxxed anyway. Am I wrong?
>
>
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Mar 25 22:13:31
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"Barry E. King" wrote:
> The stock ECU fuel tables expect stock
injectors.
One of my two problems is that the IDC is showing my
injectors being
maxxed out for several seconds. It was brought up that
perhaps my fuel
filter wasn't passing enough fuel. Sounds like a good
idea, but I guess
I was right in thinking the ecu wouldn't know the
difference, it'd max
the injectors either way. If it is related to
airflow, this would
explain how one time they maxxed, and then dropped down
as the rpms
climbed. I had the monitor switched to IDC, and didn't
notice where the
leds where showing the boost, but I'm sure it was dropping,
I've seen it
drop to .49 or lower at WOT.
> The duty cycle is
a measure of the on time for the injectors.
Hmm, so would the purpose of this setting be to adjust
how long the
injectors spray? If so, perhaps I need to drop it below 70
to lean it
some, but I don't have an a/f meter :(
> Also,
stock turbos typically won't hold much more than 10-12 psi as the
> engine
RPMs approach redline. On my '94 when it had stock turbos, 12 PSI
>
was the most I ever saw at 7000 RPM and it was usually a bit less.
However,
> you should be seeing your 1.00 bar well above 5500 RPM.
If you have 15Gs
> then 1.00 bar to redline would be
expected.
10psi would be about .68 atmosphere, and it's dropped
way below that.
It seems to be doing better this time, perhaps I just needed
to give it
more learning time? Any idea how long it takes to
'learn'?
BTW, I haven't yet thanked you for the extensive help,
particularly in
installation. The pictures you sent were extremely
helpfull, and as you
said, everything just fell into place and made
sense.
Jason,
One of the things I found helps the most is to make the
hoses as short
as possible. Also the setting in the AVCR is not for the
IDC, it is for
its own solenoid. I had great results with 1.0 bar at
70% in A and 1.05
bar at 84% in B. The only problem is if you're using
stock turbos,
after 5500 they will drop off to somewhere near 10-12
psi.
-Jose
Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
> "Barry
E. King" wrote:
>
> > The stock ECU fuel tables expect
stock injectors.
>
> One of my two problems is that the IDC is
showing my injectors being
> maxxed out for several seconds. It was
brought up that perhaps my fuel
> filter wasn't passing enough fuel.
Sounds like a good idea, but I guess
> I was right in thinking the ecu
wouldn't know the difference, it'd max
> the injectors either way.
If it is related to airflow, this would
> explain how one time they
maxxed, and then dropped down as the rpms
> climbed. I had the
monitor switched to IDC, and didn't notice where the
> leds where showing
the boost, but I'm sure it was dropping, I've seen it
> drop to .49 or
lower at WOT.
>
> > The duty cycle is a measure of the on time
for the injectors.
>
> Hmm, so would the purpose of this setting be
to adjust how long the
> injectors spray? If so, perhaps I need to
drop it below 70 to lean it
> some, but I don't have an a/f meter
:(
>
> > Also, stock turbos typically won't hold much more than
10-12 psi as the
> > engine RPMs approach redline. On my '94 when
it had stock turbos, 12 PSI
> > was the most I ever saw at 7000 RPM and
it was usually a bit less. However,
> > you should be seeing your
1.00 bar well above 5500 RPM. If you have 15Gs
> > then 1.00 bar
to redline would be expected.
>
> 10psi would be about .68
atmosphere, and it's dropped way below that.
> It seems to be doing better
this time, perhaps I just needed to give it
> more learning time?
Any idea how long it takes to 'learn'?
>
> BTW, I haven't yet
thanked you for the extensive help, particularly in
> installation.
The pictures you sent were extremely helpfull, and as you
> said,
everything just fell into place and made sense.
>
> Jason
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
josesini wrote:
>
> Jason,
>
> One of the things I found helps the most is to make the hoses as
short
> as possible. Also the setting in the AVCR is not for the
IDC, it is for
> its own solenoid. I had great results with 1.0 bar
at 70% in A and 1.05
> bar at 84% in B. The only problem is if
you're using stock turbos,
> after 5500 they will drop off to somewhere
near 10-12 psi.
Yeah, my hoses are pretty short. I could maybe
hack a couple inches
off, but it'd look like crap. There might be two
feet of hose leading
to both sides of the solenoid valve, maybe a foot or so
going to the
pressure sensor. What does increasing the duty cycle of
the solenoid
itself do? I'm dropping well below 10-12 psi
though.
Has anyone done this controller on a 2nd gen VR4 with a
filter, and 3
gutted cats for mods?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 00:47:23
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
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> Actually, i'm thinking it will set a check engine
light, because he was
> talking about doing this on a 95 model i belive.
95's have 02 sensors
> before and after the pre-cats, if you remove the
cats, the ECU will know
> because the signals will be the same, before and
after.
AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2 sensors in
each path, but I'll
recheck when I'm getting my CD back :)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 00:47:26
1999
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Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
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Friends,
Please try to send the emails directly to for
coordinating ! I also try to
answer the questions after checking back. I'll
place a FAQ upon your questions
onto my homepage this weekend.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 00:47:47
1999
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> Actually, i'm thinking it will set a check engine
light, because he was
> talking about doing this on a 95 model i belive.
95's have 02 sensors
> before and after the pre-cats, if you remove the
cats, the ECU will know
> because the signals will be the same, before and
after.
AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2 sensors in
each path, but I'll
recheck when I'm getting my CD back :)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 00:47:58
1999
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Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
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Friends,
Please try to send the emails directly to for
coordinating ! I also try to
answer the questions after checking back. I'll
place a FAQ upon your questions
onto my homepage this weekend.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 00:48:14
1999
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> come on guys!! these plugs should be
good for 60K miles.
> Some quick math shows about 1/10 cent per
mile. In terms of overall
> cost per mile that ain't too bad.
> P.S.
if your cheep you could probably go 100,000.
Barry, on what boost and mods do your run your car ?
Also have you ever figgled
around tuning in another ECU, injectors, etc. Some
of us can tell you stories
about fouling the plugs with new mods not properly
tuned in. This is why a lot
people are able to remove the intake plenum so
fast, hehe.
Regards,
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
I haven't followed this thread and therefore forgive if
the idea has been posted
already.
What about cleaning the fuel parts using an injector
cleaner. This may not clean
the filter but definitely removes (or tries to
remove) any carbon deposits on
the valves and in the chamber as well as it
restores the spray pattern of the
injectors. It's maybe worth to try out a
can and watching for any difference.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
Roger Gerl wrote:
> What about cleaning the fuel parts using an
injector cleaner. This may not clean
> the filter but definitely removes
(or tries to remove) any carbon deposits on
> the valves and in the
chamber as well as it restores the spray pattern of the
> injectors. It's
maybe worth to try out a can and watching for any difference.
It's not a bad idea, but I don't think it would
solve the original
problem. My problem is that the AVC-R is showing my
injectors as being
maxxed out. I've heard it's not good to run the
injectors maxxed out,
or perhaps even over 90%. Not for fear of
detonation, but for possible
damage to the injectors. If I'm
understanding correctly, the ecu knows
not if the proper fuel is being given,
it'll try to give the same amount
whether the filter or any other part is not
passing enough fuel. In
fact, It'd be maxxing 720cc injectors if I were
using them. Keep in
mind that my car runs perfectly smooth, just not as
fast as I was
expecting, or not as big a difference as I would have
expected.
I have 91k miles, a weapon-r air filter, ngk
plugs gapped to .035,
accel wires, and gutted cats (all 3). I have 2,
maybe 3
problems/disappointments/questions... Should my injectors be
maxxing
for several seconds, why does my boost drop as low as .49 atmosphere
at
wot in upper rpms, and why does it not seem like I just jumped
possibly
50 hp, even though the car idles and accelerates smooth as
silk. I'm
starting to think that the car is in fact faster, but I'm
paying
attention to too many other things, like boost and IDC, to
notice. I
won't know for sure till I go to the track. I'd
previously run
13.36@102.54 with a 1.96 60'
time. I've since done plugs, wires, cats,
and the boost
controller. I don't see any reason why I couldn't turn a
possible mid
12 with a perfect launch, if in fact I'm getting the
proper
boost.
I'm kinda wondering if anyone else using the
AVC-R had the same mods
as me at one point, on a 94+ if it's
applicable. I'm also wondering,
since my cats are gutted my exhaust
would flow better, would this make
it harder to maintain boost as there is
less restriction. Even though
the boost might drop, I would still
probably flow more air than with
cats, right?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 06:00:16
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999
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> -----Original Message-----
>
> >
The duty cycle is a measure of the on time for the injectors.
>
>
Hmm, so would the purpose of this setting be to adjust how long the
>
injectors spray? If so, perhaps I need to drop it below 70 to lean
it
> some, but I don't have an a/f meter :(
The injector duty cycle (IDC) is an OBSERVATION
(measurement) made by the
AVC-R. The AVC-R does not and can not adjust
the IDC. It has a display
that allows you to see what the IDC is
at. Boost Actuator Duty Cycle (BADC)
is adjustable but that has nothing
to do with the injectors. The BADC is a
reflection of how often the
boost solenoid needs to be cycled (turned on and
off or opened and closed) to
maintain a given boost.
The manual does not state that you can set the
IDC. I am curious as to how
and why this myth continues to
perpetuate. Is someone spreading this
misinformation or is it some
strange translation in the manual or ??? Just
curious...
> 10psi would be about .68 atmosphere, and it's
dropped way below that.
> It seems to be doing better this time, perhaps I
just needed to give it
> more learning time? Any idea how long it
takes to 'learn'?
If you are exceeding 90% IDC during learn mode the
AVC-R will not learn. It
is a safety feature built into the
AVC-R. Try making it learn at .80 bar
for kicks. If that works
gradually increase the boost (relearning at each
incrememnt) until it stops
learning.
I also suggest that you run back through your
installation and ensure that
all hoses are snug, not crimped or binding
anywhere, and that there are no
leaks. It is remotely possibly that
there is something amiss in the
installation.
> BTW, I haven't yet thanked you for the extensive
help, particularly in
> installation. The pictures you sent were
extremely helpfull, and as you
> said, everything just fell into place and
made sense.
You are welcome. Glad it went okay.
> Jason
Iv'e seen many downpipes at a local junckyard here in
memphis that have o2
sensors attached to them, so it must be all models, not
just ca.
At 09:22 AM 3/26/99 +0100, you
wrote:
>
>AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2 sensors in
each path, but I'll
>recheck when I'm getting my CD back
:)
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
I would expect to see them in (at least) all 1996 and
later models since the
additional redundant sensors are and ODBII requirement
to ensure that cats
are woring properly. They do not exist on the '94
non-Ca models.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
Iv'e seen many downpipes at a local junckyard here in memphis that have
o2
> sensors attached to them, so it must be all models, not just
ca.
>
> At 09:22 AM 3/26/99 +0100, you wrote:
> >
>
>AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2 sensors in each
> path,
but I'll
> >recheck when I'm getting my CD back :)
> >
>
>Regards,
> >Roger
> >93'3000GT TT
To elaborate a little more, I'm pretty sure having o2
sensors before AND
after the pre-cats is a feature of the On-Board
Diagnostics (aka: OBD-II) ,
not california emissions. Because having a sensor
behind the cat monitors
the performance of the cat, and tells the driver (via
a check engine light)
when the cat needs to be replaced. I know for a fact
that OBD-II equipped
GM vehicles have before and after sensors.
Wayne
At 08:27 AM 3/26/99 -0600, I wrote:
>Iv'e seen
many downpipes at a local junckyard here in memphis that have o2
>sensors
attached to them, so it must be all models, not just ca.
O.K. Cool, like i said in the original post; I'm not
sure what year they
went to having 4 sensors. I guess the bottom line is, if
you have 4 o2
sensors, you cannot hollow out the pre-cats without setting a
check engine
light......But if you only have two, hollow
away.......
At 07:20 AM 3/26/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I would
expect to see them in (at least) all 1996 and later models since
the
>additional redundant sensors are and ODBII requirement to ensure that
cats
>are woring properly. They do not exist on the '94 non-Ca
models.
>
>
>Barry
I know the 96's are 50 state emissions compliant. I
wonder if they all have 4 O2
sensors.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
91 R/T TT
Wayne wrote:
> Iv'e seen many downpipes at a local junckyard here
in memphis that have o2
> sensors attached to them, so it must be all
models, not just ca.
>
> At 09:22 AM 3/26/99 +0100, you
wrote:
> >
> >AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2
sensors in each path, but I'll
> >recheck when I'm getting my CD back
:)
> >
> >Regards,
> >Roger
> >93'3000GT
TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 06:47:41
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Ok, two questions... Think it's normal for
me to max my injectors out? How do I know
when it's done
learning?
I think I may have been confused between IDC and BADC
because of the 'DC' part, and also
the fact that I wasn't too familiar with
the terminology used.
I thought it was over, I was able to hold .80 through
3rd gear maxxing out the
injectors, but in 2nd it dropped to .5*, I guess it
was never learning at all.
thanks again,
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 07:01:19
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999
08:01:49 -0700
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For stock injectors, no fuel management device, and a
decent running VR4,
yes I would expect to see the injectors maxed out or
close to it at high
boost. However, your car doesn't seem to be getting
into that territory. I
was able to get my VR4 when it was stock to
learn at 16 psi, and when I set
it to ridiculously high boost it would max
out around 18 psi without falling
back other than what would be attributable
to the curve of the stock
blowers.
At what RPMs are you seeing these boost levels?
It is normal for the stock
turbos to drop boost down at higher RPMs.
Lower gears also tend to build
less boost. You'll see the most boost
during extended higher gears runs,
but I would think you should be seeing
1.00 bar pretty easily in any case
(except in first and *maybe* second, but
in second you should see 10-12 psi
anyway if not more).
As suggested previously, recheck everything and try
again. There is some
exp,anation for this, may as well eliminate the
obvious stuff first.
I strongly suggest a decent quality boost gauge that
you can mount somewhere
that you can see it all the time without taking your
eyes off the road.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Ok, two questions... Think it's
normal for me to max my
> injectors out? How do I know
> when
it's done learning?
>
> I think I may have been confused between IDC
and BADC because of
> the 'DC' part, and also
> the fact that I
wasn't too familiar with the terminology used.
>
> I thought it was
over, I was able to hold .80 through 3rd gear
> maxxing out the
>
injectors, but in 2nd it dropped to .5*, I guess it was never
> learning
at all.
>
> thanks again,
> Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 07:16:53
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:17:23
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Roger,
I don't know if you actually intended to reply to me or
to the post you
quoted since that quote isn't from me, but I'll respond
anyway.
I have the usual 15G related junk plus the MASC for
mixture control. The
AFC is also wired in for ultra lean idle since
that is all the VR4 gets
tested for at emissions time here in AZ (no AWD
dynos) =). Plus no
pre-cats now so we'll see what happens thisa
year at emissions time.
I am intimately familiar with fouled plugs. With
mods and lots of high
boost running (read high temps) NGKs last maybe a
year. Plus messing with
mixture and big injectors almost always ruins
at least one set of plugs at
some point along the way.
I wouldn't want to leave them in for 100K even if the
car were stock, as
good as the NGKs are.
My new setup includes bigger (again) injectors plus
engine work and I expect
to ruin at least one set of plugs getting it dialed
in, which is why I
bought two sets. For _initial_ tuning I usually
don't care what brand I use
since I expect to ruin the first set anyway,
although I try and stick with
what I will ultimately use. I have never
had a bad NGK plug and they have
never failed me since I started using them
20 years ago. I have seen bad
NGKs, (worked in a bike shop) but it is
extremely rare. Bosch seem to work
fine in Posche Turbos but they
didn't work in my VR4. Autolite, Champion
etc. might be okay for the
lawnmower...
HKS and Greddy do not make their own plugs. They
are likely either NGK or
Denso. Denso plugs seem to work well too --
there was a set in my VR4 when
I bought it and they looked great when they
were replaced with NGK at 60K.
Barry
'94 VR4
lotsa mods
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >
come on guys!! these plugs should be good for 60K
miles.
> > Some quick math shows about 1/10 cent per mile. In terms of
overall
> > cost per mile that ain't too bad.
> > P.S. if your
cheep you could probably go 100,000.
>
> Barry, on what boost and
mods do your run your car ? Also have
> you ever figgled
> around
tuning in another ECU, injectors, etc. Some of us can tell
> you
stories
> about fouling the plugs with new mods not properly tuned in.
This
> is why a lot
> people are able to remove the intake plenum so
fast, hehe.
>
> Regards,
> Roger,
> 93'3000GT
TT
Hi Jason;
> You wrote
snip
> Kinda doubt it, mine's a 94
Well... that blows that theory. : )
snip
> Am I wrong?
Who can say what the darn ECU is thinking. Half the
time it's a box of magic, the other
half it's an inegma.
Best
Darc
>>One interesting side note, they have a reddish
brown deposit on them. When
>>asking around about this, I was told this
is the result of using octane
>>booster. Not sure if this is true, but
they weren't fouled, just
discolored.
>>Anyone else experience
this?
Yes, this is correct.
Octane boosters will leave a
brown-orange-yellowish (soemtimes referred as
rust like)
deposit, not only
on the spart plugs, but as well on the turbos (sometimes).
And no, no ill effect that I'm aware of
Henri
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 08:15:37
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 16:39:20
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Hi Everyone
>>This glitch has occurred very intermittenly
with me in my Canadaian 92.
99.9% of the
>>time, opening the trunk
with the alarm activated will not set it off.
Well, it WAS activating my alarm 100% of the
time....sigh
>>Hmmm this should not be this way. Was the car
altered from the Canadian
standard for
>>import?
Don't know
>> A section in the manual deals with Cnadian
versions (and California
versions)
>>check it out and see if yours
has been altered from that discribed.
Yes, it seems so....seems that the car is NOT behaving
like an US or a CDN
car, strange
>>You'll have to live with the F like the rest of
us.
<sigh>...I think I can do that :-)
If I'm
cold, I'll add a couple degrees...and if I'm hot...I'll
substract
some....it's the way
it should work, isn't it :-)
>>Dunno..may be automatic, as I haven't found
it either.
Welcome on board..
I start to think that either I have a gremlin...or that
the mirror defrost
is
on when you have the REAR defrost on, AND the clima
set for the front
defrost.
>>One suggestion i could give to avoid the trunk
going off is turn the key
all
>>the way to the right, and hold it
there while you open the trunk with your
>>hand.
Well, it was NOT working.....but.....
>>No. Your lock switch us dirty. Try some
penetrating oil or take it apart
and clean it.
That WAS the problem....got some electrical cleaner
spray....fixed
it....provided I turn the key ALL the way, holding the trunk
closed...
AND, I discovered as well that I had a
"problem" with the Engine bay switch
as well...
>>If you disarm the alarm in this way (key in
hatch, hatch open, no doors
>>opened), will the alarm rearm when the
hatch is closed?
NOW ??
Yes !!
AND...while working on the car, I discovered as well
that some cleaner in
the driver's lock, and turning the key all the way for
about 1 second, and
the above mentioned fix on the engine bay switch fixed
the activation of the
alarm using the key.
Thank you for all of you who helped me..
Best
Henri
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 08:55:18
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Hood Insulation / Scoops
Date: Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:28:56
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>
>
>Roger Gerl wrote:
-------------
>
>snip
>
>> I check out the local cost
and also if they come already painted or not !
>>
>
>The
price is a good...however they always come unpainted..so add paint
to
your total
>investment. Still modifying these is inexpensive
compared to Bozz.
>
>I am still hoping a team member with skill,
facilities, and ingenuity will
come up with
>a nice neat prefabricated
insert (cutout template included) for the back of
our strut
>tower
blisters. Mmmm ...something like the side of the hood vents in the
new
Mustangs
>(in that case they're inoperable) , only made for our
contour
configuration. ; ) It
>could prove to be a nice
little on the side enterprize if done with
class.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
At the reccomdation of my friends/family, and
pshycologist. I sold my VR4 and bought a 98
Accord EX, with every
option. It is sad to see it go, but after, the 2 transfer
cases,
clutch, master/slave cylinders, motor mount, and transmission, 3 weeks
of rental cars (all
last month); I am broke. I am curious what everyone
else here has been spending on
maintenance for the 91-93's Or was my
situation an isolated case. The accord still has
90k miles of warranty,
so I am not going to worry about _anything_.
Another question, I heard tell that someone here raced
a sportbike with thier GT, Jack T. I
think? What are your 0-60
times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9 sec's, with me riding it, and
I've
read as low as 2.8. What kind of bike did you race, and what
conditions? I saw a
race between the Ducati Superbike team, and a
Formula 1 car on TV, an F1 got spanked
nicely. I would love to see your
beast in action..
Jason Barnhart wrote:
snip
> wot in upper
rpms, and why does it not seem like I just jumped possibly
> 50 hp, even
though the car idles and accelerates smooth as silk. I'm
> starting
to think that the car is in fact faster, but I'm paying
> attention to too
many other things, like boost and IDC, to notice. I
> won't know for
sure till I go to the track. I'd previously run
snip
Anyone spending lots of money on modifications will
probably want to
have access to some type of device to measure performance
(in addition
to the track). If you don't have access to an AWD dyno,
you should look
into getting a G-Tech for $139, http://www.gtechpro.com or the Home
Dyno
for $85, http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm.
This would
allow you to take quantitative before and after
measurements.
Good luck with your tuning,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
Hi Andrew,
Sorry to hear that your VR4 problems were so expensive
and caused you to
sell. No doubt that these are high maintenance
cars. When buying one,
I think one should get the best possible
condition that they can
afford. I have seen a few that have looked like
they were "rode hard
and put away wet" and these should be
avoided.
I've had my '91 for 16 months now. I bought it at
65K and it now has
93K. That averages 1750 miles per month -- it's my
daily driver. Here
is what I've spent on maintenance:
Repairs & maintenance:
$540 Rear wheel bearings
(both sides), and one rear hub
$40 Boost Control Solenoid
Valve
$140 Starter
$40 Clutch slave cylinder
$540 4
struts
$110 Brake pads
$340 New front rotors and more brake pads
$75 plug wires
$200 Miscellaneous trim, shift boot, nut caps, washers,
gaskets, cover,
etc.
Mods:
$295 Eibach springs (I needed them right away,
so shipping killed me!)
$130 boost guage and A-pillar pod
$33
manual boost controller
$145 G-Tech
Consumables:
$2388 gasoline
$935 tires
$326
Oil filters & synthetic oils, K&N cleaner kit
I'm sure the list is not complete, but pretty
close. Anyway that totals
$6277, or $392 a month, or $0.22 per
mile! I haven't even done a clutch
or tranny or 60K service yet, so I
thought my costs have been low!
Obviously I was wrong (wow, I'm glad
you asked the question and I
performed the exercise). Also this is
parts only except for the rear
bearings. If you always pay for labor
you could probably double the
maintenance cost.
I guess I'd better get a commuter car, although I am
planning on moving
closer to work this Spring or Summer. What an eye
opener!
Good luck Andrew. It's been a pleasure having you
on the list. Maybe
you'll still make it to San Diego though, yes?
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 10:24:21
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Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
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"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> The
manual does not state that you can set the IDC. I am curious as to
how
> and why this myth continues to perpetuate. Is someone
spreading this
> misinformation or is it some strange translation in the
manual or ??? Just
> curious...
Must be the Blitz guys! :-) I think people
are confused because the
AVC-R has one mode to display and set boost, and
another mode to display
IDC and set BADC (but not set IDC or display BADC!),
both of which are
percentages. This confused me at first as well (and I
believe you were
the one who set me straight about a year and a half
ago).
> I also suggest that you run back through your
installation and ensure that
> all hoses are snug, not crimped or binding
anywhere, and that there are no
> leaks. It is remotely possibly
that there is something amiss in the
> installation.
This is what I'm thinking as well. The IDC maxing
out and then falling
off I think is an effect of the boost falling off, not
the cause, though
it does sound like the high IDC levels are being reached
too soon. It
clarify things to know what is being shown at what RPMs
under WOT in
third.
I don't think this problem has anything to do with the
other mods, air
flow, or fuel delivey. Sounds like the wastegates are
not being
controlled properly - just doesn't make sense! Wasn't someone
else
having a similar problem last summer? The boost controller was
seeing a
HIGHER pressure than it should have and was opening the wastegates?
Pretty insidious.
Jason, it sounds to me like your car is running as if
it were stock (you
don't notice any difference in performance, right?) and
that the AVC-R
is doing no more than monitoring boost and IDC. Double
check all of
your solonoid and wastegate connections, hoses and wires!
You will know
when it's right - it's a big difference!! Good
luck...
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
xwing wrote:
>
> Dennis Moore
wrote:
> > stick on tranny was rocking back/forth as press/release gas
pedal. It
> > only happened in 5th, was most noticeable above 60
mph.
> > "sign of the end", or less ominous?
> >
symptom of a broken motor mount?
> > Dennis Moore 93 Stealth ES
>
> Could be broken motormount, even with the cable shifter.
>
Doubtful it is anything inside the trans.
> Unless it is alot, could be
something to ignore, but check motormounts.
> Let us know what it is/how
it goes after month or 2...
> Jack T.
if I happen to say something stupid in the next
sentence, then I plead
ignorance.. :) if the motor mount
is the problem, wouldn't it affect all
gears? one reason I say this, is
I have the same problem, but in 3rd, which
coincidently is where I have a bad
synchro.. every other gear, the shifter
is rock solid..
just adding my meager input.. :)
I wanted to take a moment and thank all of you that
replied to my question
about purchase of a high milage 95 VR4.. Both
pros and cons were addressed
and helped me decide that I probably should try
and wait for the "right" car..
the right car being a 99 for $15K... hehe..
yeah, maybe in 10 years.. ;)
I am curious what everyone else here has been
spending on
>maintenance for the 91-93's
I've had a 94 VR4 for nearly a year. It has about
65,000 miles.
Except for 2 oil changes (Mobil 1), I have had NO maintenance
expenses. My
warranty covered a new Getrag transmission, so that cost me $100
to
replace. Of course, it's not a daily driver. I've put less than
5,000
miles on it so far.
I did break a brake rotor and fry some pads, but that
was during driver's
school. I don't think you mean those kinds of
expenses.
>
>Another question, I heard tell that someone
here raced a sportbike with
thier GT, Jack T. I
>think? What are
your 0-60 times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9 sec's, with
me riding it,
and
>I've read as low as 2.8. What kind of bike did you race, and
what
conditions? I saw a
>race between the Ducati Superbike team,
and a Formula 1 car on TV, an F1
got spanked
>nicely. I would
love to see your beast in action..
I was watching a motorcycle show on Speedvision, and
they were testing 600
cc bikes in the quarter. The little suckers were
turning 125+ mph in the 10s.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 12:13:35
1999
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Hi guys;
There seems to be a preponderance of transfer case
failures (someone
just posted they went through 2) so I thought getting a
handle on the
problem might forewarn those who have yet to encounter it
Forewarned is
forearmed) . So, to those of you who have encountered the
problem..1)
What could have been done to prevent it including driving habits
or
maintenance strategies, and 2) what aftermarket upgrades that
will
prevent it from occurring (upgrading to new splines, etc). All
expert
advise would help establish a firm baseline on a problem that
seems
second only to the synchros.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 12:41:30
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Team3S: Speed sensor
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Does anyone know the location of the speed sensor? My
speedometer is off
and I would like to try adjust it.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 13:08:57
1999
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
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> I don't know if you actually intended to reply to
me or to the post you
> quoted since that quote isn't from me, but I'll
respond anyway.
A big sorry ! I responded to James Berrys (note my
wrong addressing to you) post
and yes it was my intention to send it to the
list :)
> I am intimately familiar with fouled plugs.
With mods and lots of high
> boost running (read high temps) NGKs last
maybe a year. Plus messing with
> mixture and big injectors almost
always ruins at least one set of plugs at
> some point along the
way.
I'll definitely need at least two sets until my new
setup will be up and running
then. I really wonder what the water injection
does to the plugs (good or bad).
We'll see soon.
> I wouldn't want to leave them in for 100K even if
the car were stock, as
> good as the NGKs are.
I guess 20k with our mods. But this is the lowest price
factor of all.
Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 13:36:28
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Subject:
Team3S: Spark crisis...HELP
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 13:36:16
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Howdy folks...
I'm having a crisis here, need help. Just finished
adding 15G turbos, 560
injectors, and a HKS fuel pump, along with a G-force
custom ECU (mapped for
my full set of mods). What's happening is stalling
above 4Krpm, or under
WOT. Not fuel cut, just misfiring. I believe I'm
blowing out the flame. I
called Robert at G-force, he tells me to run
.025" gap on a colder plug. I'm
already running one range colder and
REALLY don't want to reduce the gap
below .034, in fact I'd like to open it
back up.
Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics units to
increase voltage to
the plugs?
Other solutions?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
HKS double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs...and
running lousy)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> I have 91k miles, a weapon-r air
filter, ngk plugs gapped to .035,
> accel wires, and gutted cats (all
3). I have 2, maybe 3
> problems/disappointments/questions...
Should my injectors be maxxing
> for several seconds
Unfortunately, they start to max out at higher boost
around 15psi.
> why does my boost drop as low as .49 atmosphere at
wot in upper rpms, and
After rereading your notes I'm starting to think about
a retarded timing. This
is the only cause I see now that is not related to
the boost controller.
> why does it not seem like I just jumped
possibly
> 50 hp, even though the car idles and accelerates smooth as
silk.
Smooth accelerating sounds very stock to me while the
idle doesn't say anything.
Acceleration became neck-slapping after the boost
controller was installed and
tuned in.
You say this times where achieved without a boost
controller and with stock
boost. This leads me to the assumption that you
already had a leak in the
wastegate lines and you had an "unknown
bleeder valve" installed that finally
gave you more power. Note the
G-Tech times from Jim, me and others. All are
around 13.15 - 13.20 with 1.00
bars (14.2 psi) of boost and without a bc I have
never been able to go below
13.70 during my tests.
> I don't see any reason why I couldn't turn a
possible mid 12 with a perfect
> launch, if in fact I'm getting the proper
boost.
No, I doubt you'll ever see the 12's with any
corrections with a healthy car. We
have already heard some stories about this
but just calculate the power that is
needed to throw a 3800lbs car in 12.60
at aroun 118mph ! This will lead you
around 480hp and this is only possible
with boost around 1.2bars. I measured 467
DIN hp at 1.25bars bit the car
runned heavily into knock and fuel cut around
1.27bars.
> since my cats are gutted my exhaust would flow
better, would this make
> it harder to maintain boost as there is less
restriction.
Your stock turbos do not gain a lot if anything due to
the gutted cats. But this
should help to keep boost up in the higher rpm due
to the less restriction.
> Even though the boost might drop, I would still
probably flow more air than
> with cats, right?
No, as the turbos do not flow more without increasing
them. But you lowered the
exhaust backpressure and therefore the temperature
and pressure against the
turbine wheel that finally helps to keep them
spooling.
I'm almost sure you do have a problem within your
setup. A leak or wrongly
tapped in. I whished I could have a look at
everything.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 14:05:43
1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark crisis...HELP
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Chris,
Awesome with the mods, did you
end up installing yourself? At any rate,
we have a modified version of
the MSD DIS4 I run on my Stealth that might help
you. But why did you
go lower on your heat range!? All you probably need to
do is through in
some NGK PFR6J-11's at .032-.034 and you should be good to
go.
Mike (cant believe someone told you .025 - what a
cracka!)
<< Howdy folks...
I'm having a
crisis here, need help. Just finished adding 15G turbos, 560
injectors,
and a HKS fuel pump, along with a G-force custom ECU (mapped for
my
full set of mods). What's happening is stalling above 4Krpm, or
under
WOT. Not fuel cut, just misfiring. I believe I'm blowing out the
flame. I
called Robert at G-force, he tells me to run .025" gap on
a colder plug. I'm
already running one range colder and REALLY don't
want to reduce the gap
below .034, in fact I'd like to open it back
up.
Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics units to
increase voltage to
the plugs?
Other
solutions?
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos,
bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
HKS double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", ATR downpipe and test
pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop
progressive springs...and
running lousy)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 14:06:25
1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark crisis...HELP
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Whoops.. sorry, that last mail was meant to be
private.
> I'm interested in the purchase, but have a
question. WHat does this come
> with? I assume we keep the stock flywheel,
but how about the other parts
> (disk obviously, pressure plate,
???)
Good question and I'll place it on the FAQ of the page
that will be up Sunday
morning (I do not arrive earlier).
The RPS units come with the Disc and Pressure
plate. New Throw out bearings
should be installed with the new clutch
and we can get them together with the
clutch when needed for $30. The stock
flywheel will stay and may be turned if
necessary.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
Hey Chris,
> Just finished adding 15G turbos, 560 injectors,
and a HKS fuel pump, along
> with a G-force custom ECU fully full set of
mods).
Hmmm, sounds good :)
> called Robert at G-force, he tells me to run
.025" gap on a colder plug. I'm
> already running one range colder
and REALLY don't want to reduce the gap
> below .034, in fact I'd like to
open it back up.
No, Rob is true due to the advanced timing and the gap
should be what he
supposes. But I also would opt for an AFC as the fuel MAP
may be right but still
too rich in this region.
> Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics
units to increase voltage to
> the plugs?
Hmmm, give the plugs a try and if it helps the bigger
spark energy my help then.
If not then the fuel map is not properly tuned in.
You know, not all 560 can be
compared to each other and therefore I'm feeling
that too much fuek causes the
problem.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
Jim Mathews was possibly on a hot scent when he
wrote:
> snip
>
> Jason, it sounds to me like
your car is running as if it were stock (you
> don't notice any difference
in performance, right?) and that the AVC-R
> is doing no more than
monitoring boost and IDC. Double check all of
> your solonoid and
wastegate connections, hoses and wires! You will know
> when it's
right - it's a big difference!!
Jason...is there any chance at all that you've spliced
a wrong wire in the ECU? I know
I triple checked mine, and then checked
it again for absolute certainty before plugging
it back together. Paranoia is
a family trait :) You used the M3 configuration for
Generation 2 right
?(M1 for Generation 1).
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 14:15:42
1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark crisis...HELP
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Chris, I think I recall a post from Brad Badell about
Jacobs not being good
with his setup. I may be mistaken on who wrote it. With
a stock NGk I was
running .028 Gap & worked fine except for gas mileage.
G-Force is prob correct
about the gap on a colder plug. If you can, check not
only if the plugs &
wires are good...Check the coil too. Mine was bad
& I did not even know it.
Try pulling the plug or wire to see the color
& intensity of the spark. I
recall Brian at GT Alley was running like 3
MSD units but it took up a lot of
room.
Arty
<< Subj: Team3S: Spark
crisis...HELP
Date: 3/26/99 4:37:22 PM Eastern Standard
Time
From: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com (Chris
Winkley)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
('Team3S')
Howdy folks...
I'm having a
crisis here, need help. Just finished adding 15G turbos, 560
injectors,
and a HKS fuel pump, along with a G-force custom ECU (mapped for
my
full set of mods). What's happening is stalling above 4Krpm, or
under
WOT. Not fuel cut, just misfiring. I believe I'm blowing out the
flame. I
called Robert at G-force, he tells me to run .025" gap on
a colder plug. I'm
already running one range colder and REALLY don't
want to reduce the gap
below .034, in fact I'd like to open it back
up.
Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics units to
increase voltage to
the plugs?
Other
solutions?
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos,
bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
HKS double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", ATR downpipe and test
pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop
progressive springs...and
running lousy)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Well, it's located on the transmission, almost directly
below the throttle
body. But it is NOT adjustable. Plus, if your car is a
non-turbo, it has a
cable, not a sensor. If the cable is bad, it could cause
the speedometer to
be off. You're not running other than stock tire size, are
you? Good luck....
Wayne
At 01:41 PM 3/26/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Does
anyone know the location of the speed sensor? My speedometer is off
>and I
would like to try adjust it.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 15:04:37
1999
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Message-ID: <01BE7799.ECEFE940.steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
From:
Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfer Case
Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 14:59:59
-0800
Organization: E.D.A.
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
My first TC lasted 9K, my second is still OK at
60K. Here is what I
learned:
1. Warm the engine and transmission before working the
car hard;
2. Never, ever, ever launch a VR4 (or any other AWD) by flooring
the gas
and just dumping the clutch. With AWD the grip is so high that
the
transmission take all the shock and it will break.
Transmission warm-up and "feathered clutch and
feathered gas" are mandatory
for safe (and the fastest)
launches.
Steve C
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE77C0.F3BB09E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I bought my 91 new along with an extended warranty for
7 years. The =
only problems I encountered were brake rotors (changed
at 15K), the =
speedo (changed at 20K), lifters (make a "ticking"
sound and changed at =
40K) and trannys. I've had three transmissions
changed under warranty =
because they caught between first and second.
Never broke down, but =
just didn't shift as it should. I too was
contemplating selling the car =
to go with a new one under warranty, but
simply can't find anything =
under $60K with the performance, style, and
ride. I guess I'll keep =
this one until it breaks me. Even high
repair bills are no match new =
car payments until everything goes at
once! Good luck with the Accord. =
I considered it, but was
unsure of the performance. How does it =
compare?
At the reccomdation of my friends/family, and
pshycologist. I sold my =
VR4 and bought a 98
Accord EX, with every
option. It is sad to see it go, but after, the 2 =
transfer
cases,
clutch, master/slave cylinders, motor mount, and transmission, 3 weeks
=
of rental cars (all
last month); I am broke. I am curious what
everyone else here has been =
spending on
maintenance for the
91-93's Or was my situation an isolated case. The =
accord still
has
90k miles of warranty, so I am not going to worry about
_anything_.
Another question, I heard tell that someone here raced
a sportbike with =
thier GT, Jack T. I
think? What are your 0-60
times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9 sec's, with =
me riding it,
and
I've read as low as 2.8. What kind of bike did you race, and what
=
conditions? I saw a
race between the Ducati Superbike team, and a
Formula 1 car on TV, an F1 =
got spanked
nicely. I would love to see
your beast in action..
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE77C0.F3BB09E0
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Date: Fri, 26 Mar 1999 20:39:34
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From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
change to synthetic oil
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I own a 92 dodge stealth with 17,500 on it. I want to
change oil to =
redline 10w40 synthetic. Somebody told me that before i
switch over to =
the synthetic that i should use a cleaner to clean out the
petroleum oil =
that is already in the car! Can anybody tell me if this is
what you =
should do.
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I own a
92 dodge stealth with 17,500 =
on it. I=20
want to change oil to redline
10w40 synthetic. Somebody told me that =
before i=20
switch over to the
synthetic that i should use a cleaner to clean out =
the=20
petroleum oil
that is already in the car! Can anybody tell me if this is =
what you should
do.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Mar 26 21:16:43
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Hi Ken;
I own a 92 Stealth TT and found an oil flush rinsed out
the baked fosil
oils and deposits which caused ticking, restricted lines,
etc. Once
flushed and Mobil 1 sythetic was put in, I noticed a lack of
ticking.
When or if it comes back, I plan to use a flush again.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 00:39:11
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From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
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Barry,
I'm not exactly sure what rpms I'm
seeing these boost levels. I would estimate that
I'm seeing the peak
between 2-4k, as high as 1.2 atmosphere. It'll stay above 1.0 for
a
bit, then fall back down. I was able to stay at or very near .80 in
third all the way
to redline, but it seems that in 2nd, it'll fall down to
.50. It seems to be able to
peak near 1.2 in any gear, 1-6. I am
not able to notice a difference with the unit off,
although I've not run it
long with the unit off.
Roger,
By smooth acceleration, I meant that
there is no stumbles. I would think that if I
was running out of fuel,
I could feel it in the acceleration.
Those acceleration runs were done
with only the filter for mods, and dealing with
stumbles due to old
plugs/wires. My 60' seems painfully high for a run that fast, it
seems
reasonable to think I should be able to get 1.7* 60' times, that would knock
about
2 tenths of a second off my 60', and ATLEAST 2 tenths of a second off
my 1/4 mile time
if I was able to drive it as well after 60'.
*Supposedly*, Adam Weltz ran 12.32 (?) or
near with a boost controller,
filter, and exhaust. Not sure if his cats were gutted and
whether he
had a downpipe or not. I'm getting the impression that the factory
exhaust
isn't a big hinderance, especially after gutted cats, until you start
talking much more
power. I don't see any reason at all that I won't be
able to get 12s, atleast,
considering the above. Besides missing third
gear (14.07), my slowest runs have been
13.7s. I've had several 13.6s
and 2 13.3s. All runs were done with the same mods, the
majority of the
slower runs were done with slip clutch launches, the quicker ones were
done
with dump clutch launches (spinning excessively, even leaving smoke) and
speed
shifting.
I know that it's possible to read lower psi after
moving to aftermarket exhaust. This
wouldn't mean a drop in power as it
would flow more air, but there would be less
restriction and therefore less
pressure. I'm wondering if the same isn't possible with
gutting the
cats, I wouldn't see why not. Also, Barry mentioned that he had seen up
to
12.5 psi with his 94 with stock mods. I dunno if this included a
filter and gutted
cats, or similar, but that could also explain why I haven't
noticed a big difference.
Darc,
I was hoping you were right, then I
looked at the Apexi book and it shows the IDC wire
location as being the same
for both M1 and M3, plus my harnesses look identicle to M1
and the IDC is the
ony wire I tapped into on the ECU. I hated having to mess with the
ECU,
and could find no reason that the ign key, constant power, and ground would be
any
different anywhere in the car, so I used the ones leading to my
stereo.
All,
Something is definately amiss, and now I
feel certain the the controller is doing
nothing more than measuring. I
just woke up after a 12+ hour nap, and it's dark, cold,
and scary outside
right now, so I'll have to check the install tomorrow. I had
been
planning on visiting Mike's shop (Altered Atmosphere) tomorrow, perhaps
he can take a
look. A couple things about the install concerned
me. The Apexi's solenoid nipples are
6pi, but everything on the car was
4pi. What I did was run the 6pi hose, the insert a
small section of the
factory 4pi hose in the end, right before it attached to the
vehicle, the
y-pipe fitting, etc. I later decided this is probably fine as the
Apexi
kit comes with 6pi-4pi adapters. The only other thing that
bothered me somewhat was
that when I tapped into the t/b hose going to the
factory pressure sensor and t'd it to
the apexi sensor, it left a bend in the
hose going to the factory pressure sensor. It
certainly isn't crimped,
and is hardly bent, but this, if it is bad, would lead to
exactly the
problems I'm having, no? The bend in the line could make the car's
pressure
sensor think that boost is higher than it actually is, maxxing my
injecors. Because
boost isn't actually that high, and the bend is after
the t fitting going to the apexi
sensor, the apexi is showing fairly normal
boost readings, but it won't learn cause the
injectors are maxxed. This
would explain no increase in power, and the maxxed
injectors... I hope
that makes sense, and is the problem, I'll mess with it tommorow...
thanks again,
Jason
Merritt wrote:
>
> >I am curious what
everyone else here has been spending on
> >maintenance for the
91-93's
>
> I've had a 94 VR4 for nearly a year. It has about
65,000 miles.
> Except for 2 oil changes (Mobil 1), I have had NO
maintenance expenses. My
> warranty covered a new Getrag transmission, so
that cost me $100 to
> replace. Of course, it's not a daily driver.
I've put less than 5,000
> miles on it so far.
I bought my '94 with 34k and it now has 70k,
Mobil 1 and Mitsu filter
every 5k, 60k service along with almost all mods at
50k (with the AVC-R
set to 1.00 bar).
This car has been exetremely
reliable, just as I'd hoped a Japanese car
would be. Only problems that
have cropped up are minor (so minor that
I've been ignoring them): lifter
tick (goes away when I rev RPMs, so I'm
not worried), a noisy exhaust heat
shield, warped rotors, and active
exhaust keeps sticking (I can spray it with
WD-40 to unstick, but then
it resticks again since I so rarely use it).
I do have a set of Jack's
synchros in case I ever need them, but while the
shifting is a tad
notchy, it has been that way since the day I bought the car
and hasn't
gotten any worse, so who knows.
I have been extremely
happy with the car and don't think I could find
anything else that comes
close to its level of performance (400 hp!),
reliability (no unscheduled
maintenance in the 36k miles I've owned
it!), safety (dual air bags, ABS),
practicality (all season car, baby
seat in back), style (head turner,
especially over here in Europe) and
in general satisfaction for anywhere near
the price, with or without
expensive repairs if they are eventually
needed.
I understand that there are several first gen turbos that are
still
going after 150k-200k miles with no problems, so both generations
were
built well and should be very reliable if maintained
properly.
I have also heard some horror stories and can understand if
an owner
decides to dump a particular car and bail out. As for the
Honda Accord
(I sold my '89 LXi coupe to buy the Stealth), it is an excellent
car
with much improved styling and bulletproof reliability. Handling
is
very good but as a performance car I'm afraid it is not in the
same
league. Still a lot of fun to drive!
> >Another question, I heard tell that
someone here raced a sportbike with
> thier GT...
Not much chance of any cage beating out a two-wheeler,
but the surprise
aspect makes it fun to try! :-)
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
Andrew Brilliant wrote:
> Another question, I heard tell that someone here
raced a sportbike with thier GT, Jack T. I
> think? What are your
0-60 times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9 sec's, with me riding it,
and
> I've read as low as 2.8. What kind of bike did you race, and
what conditions? I saw a
> race between the Ducati Superbike team,
and a Formula 1 car on TV, an F1 got spanked
> nicely. I would love
to see your beast in action..
I dunno about Jack's 60mph times, but he's
turned 10s in the 1/4. Street versions of the
Mclaren can do 60 in 3.2,
dunno about the racing version, which I understand has few
differences
besides gearing for *better* acceleration. The 911 turbo, and viper GTS,
stock,
can do 60 in the upper 3s, if I'm not mistaken, the 959 and Bugatti
EB110 (quad turbo 3.5 liter
V12, AWD) were around 3.5. The F40 is in
the upper 3s I think, and you can read about Jack's
race with it in the
3000gt.com. If I recall correctly, Jack was running on pump gas,
less
boost, and the guy refused to race from a dead stop. I don't think
the F40 ever got more than
a car length ahead. I also recall a bike
magazine doing comparisons of several bikes, and
there were several, maybe
half that couldn't hit 0-60 in under 3 seconds, they were around
3.2.
Most of the 1/4 mile times were in the upper 10s, but these weren't your average
guys
driving either.
About F1 cars. I know more about Indy
cars, and little about both. I would think that F1 is
just as fast, if
not faster. At any rate, an article I read awhile ago spoke of an Indy
car
averaging 240mph on an oval (that's one for Nascar lovers :P
). He did the whole track, 2
miles I think, in roughly 30
seconds. God only knows what he topped out at, but onto
more
facts... They were speaking of limitting hp output from 800-600,
don't recall the engine size,
but it was tiny, around 1.5 liters if I'm not
mistaken. I also recall reading of Indy or F1
cars reaching 100mph in
just under 3 seconds, dunno how true it was, but sounds possible.
More
hp than a Mclaren, and it's gotta weigh less. Sorry, but I find
that TV show hard to swallow.
I also thought cars had the potential to
outhandle bikes, was this straight-line acceleration
or a road
course?
There are several stories of 3000gts beating motorcycles, and
I don't think most owners of
bikes are turning regular sub 3 second
acceleration runs, even though the bike has the
potential, the driver may
not. How in the world did you clock yerself 0-60, I found it hard to
do
the same, accurately, in a car. Stock vs Stock I don't think there's much
competition,
surprise helps alot though.
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 05:25:47
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: change to synthetic oil
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Darc or whoever,
What are the recommended products to use for flushing
the crankcase and
oil journals??
Regards,
Lynn '93 ES #0232
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hi Ken;
>
> I own a 92 Stealth TT and found an oil flush
rinsed out the baked fosil
> oils and deposits which caused ticking,
restricted lines, etc. Once
> flushed and Mobil 1 sythetic was put in, I
noticed a lack of ticking.
> When or if it comes back, I plan to use a
flush again.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Darc or whoever,
What are the recommended products to use for flushing
the crankcase and
oil journals??
Regards,
Lynn '93 ES
#0232
===========================
I've used the product labeled
"Motor Flush". It comes in a one quart can for
$3.00 and requires 5
minutes at idle. A salesman told me it's nothing more
than kerosene, but I'll
stick with a labeled product when I flush. It
eliminated the
"ticking" at idle and (hopefully) removed any traces of burnt
oil
in the turbos and any deposits left from the previous owners use of dino
oil
with Slick 50.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 07:40:27
1999
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: change to synthetic oil
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 07:27:54
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>
>What are the recommended products to
use for flushing the crankcase and
>oil journals??
I used an oil flush made by Gunk --- It worked fine,
but no miracles.
Thanks for the input, I used to use Castrol 20-50, but
have been using
Castrol Syntec for about 2-3 years now. Do you think
the flush will
still
be necessary or could I just switch to Mobil 1 in
attempt to stop valve
lash
adjuster ticking when cold?? Since
winter is over the ticking is not so
bad,
but when cold, I noticed that
the ticking was more prevalent and the oil
pressure stayed lower. I
assume that is because the oil never got hot
enough
to raise the
viscosity much.
Regards,
Lynn
james berry wrote:
>
> I used an oil flush
made by Gunk --- It worked fine, but no miracles.
chris winkley wrote:
>
> I've used the
product labeled "Motor Flush". It eliminated the "ticking"
at idle
> and (hopefully) removed any traces of burnt oil in the turbos
and any deposits
> left from the previous owners use of dino oil with
Slick 50.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Jason;
snip
> I was hoping you were right, then I
looked at the Apexi book and it shows the IDC wire
> location as being the
same for both M1 and M3, plus my harnesses look identicle to M1
> and the
IDC is the ony wire I tapped into on the ECU. I hated having to mess with
the
> ECU, and could find no reason that the ign key, constant power, and
ground would be any
> different anywhere in the car, so I used the ones
leading to my stereo.
Sounds reasonable, logical, and all of that practical
stuff, however....But Apexi wants you
to tap into the harness in the
directions or they'd say tap into the most easily available
source for the
ground and power. I wonder if this isn't the problem...possibly there is
a
big differrence if it is not routed through the ECU. Just my thought on the
problem
Best
Darc
Hi Lynn;
Use the Gunk product if available (it's a 5 minute
flush at idle like Chris's product, I
believe) and then change filter and
oile to Mobil 1 ( I use 10-30). For the few bucks
extra and another 5 or 10
minutes, it's worth comapring the results. Follow directions
on the product
you buy.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 09:03:35
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation (???)
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 10:03:46
-0700
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The AVC-R requires two positive power sources.
One which is always on to
keep the program memory alive and the other which
is switched with the
ignition. So long as you have done that then you
should be fine. If not,
then you should fix that or the AVC-R will
never remember learned settings
after the ignition is turned
off.
Remember that pi 4 hose you mentioned stuffing into the
end of the pi 6
hose? Are you certain that it is airtight?
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
Jason;
> snip
>
> > I was hoping you were
right, then I looked at the Apexi book
> and it shows the IDC wire
>
> location as being the same for both M1 and M3, plus my
> harnesses
look identicle to M1
> > and the IDC is the ony wire I tapped into on
the ECU. I hated
> having to mess with the
> > ECU, and
could find no reason that the ign key, constant power,
> and ground would
be any
> > different anywhere in the car, so I used the ones leading to
my stereo.
>
> Sounds reasonable, logical, and all of that practical
stuff,
> however....But Apexi wants you
> to tap into the harness in
the directions or they'd say tap into
> the most easily available
>
source for the ground and power. I wonder if this isn't the
>
problem...possibly there is a
> big differrence if it is not routed
through the ECU. Just my
> thought on the problem
>
>
Best
>
> Darc
I stored my 1993 R/T TT covered in the driveway for the
winter (long
here in Michigan). All fluids were changed and topped up
as necessary.
And the battery was removed. I know that the ECU will need to
relearn
when the battery is replaced, and I may experience some flaky
idle. I
had no code set in the radio. Anything else I can be
prepared for?
Thanks,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 09:42:44
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Date:
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From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
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Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation (???)
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The electrical sources are correct in that the
ign lead is seeing ign power and the
constant power lead is seeing constant
power. Other than that it should not matter what
location they come
from.
I actually used one of the included 6pi-4pi adapters, with
clamps on both sides,
pretty sure it's ok, cept for the change in hose
diameter maybe. I actually missed a
couple steps from your
instructions, doh... I only got as far as the y-pipe hose, and
the hose
coming from the 4way adapter, atleast it runs right and my engine is
ok...
I've still got to cut and cap the other hoses.
Jason
Barry E. King wrote:
> The AVC-R requires two positive power
sources. One which is always on to
> keep the program memory alive
and the other which is switched with the
> ignition. So long as you
have done that then you should be fine. If not,
> then you should
fix that or the AVC-R will never remember learned settings
> after the
ignition is turned off.
>
> Remember that pi 4 hose you mentioned
stuffing into the end of the pi 6
> hose? Are you certain that it is
airtight?
Fellow road racers:
Took the first step in preparing the car today for the
1999
Porsche/Vette/5.0 wars:
I replaced the front rotors on my 94
VR4 with new PowerSlots.
As some of you may recall, last year I broke one
PowerSlot (snapped it in
half), and the company replaced both of the rotors.
I'm leaving the old carbon metallics on for a week or
so to help season the
rotors, then I'll stick in new Performance Friction
pads a week before the
Porsche club event in Topeka.
Whilst I was in there changing rotors, I wondered if I
should remove the
shielding around each rotor. I thought I'd ask youse guys
first, since some
of you have already been there.
The shielding's purpose, I guess, is to keep dirt from
getting on the
rotor, and to provide a mount for the ABS sensor hose. It
seems like it is
also preventing cooling air from getting to the rotor
(unless those
odd-shaped projections are some kind of a demon air flow
scheme).
Does anyone know any reason why I should not remove the
shield?
Izzit OK to just let the ABS sensor hose hang loose, or should I
anchor it
somewhere with a tiewrap?
I'm planning to run a 2-in. hose from a scoop under the
front valence up to
the brakes, but with the shield in place, there doesn't
seem to be any
place to direct the air. I'm s'posed to direct the cooling air
to the
center of the rotor, so it can disperse equally.
Any ideas on any of this?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
Pete Ryner wrote:
> I bought my 91 new along with an extended warranty
for 7 years. The only problems I encountered were brake rotors (changed at
15K), the speedo (changed at 20K), lifters (make a "ticking" sound and
changed at 40K) and trannys. I've had
-snip-
how does it compare, you'd compare those two... it's
about like a F-15 vs a 747..
BTW I am selling the 91 for $8500 anyone??
please, just get me out of this thing. The dealership offered my $8k for
the trade, I think it's worth a little more.
> hp than a Mclaren, and it's gotta weigh
less. Sorry, but I find that TV show hard to swallow.
> I also
thought cars had the potential to outhandle bikes, was this straight-line
acceleration
> or a road course?
> There are several
stories of 3000gts beating motorcycles, and I don't think most owners of
>
bikes are turning regular sub 3 second acceleration runs, even though the bike
has the
> potential, the driver may not. How in the world did you
clock yerself 0-60, I found it hard to
> do the same, accurately, in a
car. Stock vs Stock I don't think there's much competition,
>
surprise helps alot though.
-snip-
I found the Ducati show hard to belive also, I was sure
that the F1 would have left the superbikes
behind. It could have been
rigged, given it was at Ducati's anniversary party, so It was far from
a
sanctioned test you know. THe bikes were taking him on the turns, and low
speed acceleration.
The car blew by them on the straights, after 5 laps the
bikes had anywhere from a car length to
100ft on the F1. The 500cc 2
stroke led the pack, followed by the 916, and the 748.
I clocked thi gixxer at LV speedway it was during Skip
Barber school last summer. Magazine dyno's
are as high as around 120 hp
for stock 98+ GSXR 750. Claimed weight is 398lbs dry. We just
sort
of used the equipent they had, a radar gun with a timer, you set the
speed you want to time to. We
had to do it about 6 times, because it
was really hard to get the radar to stay fixed on a tiny
GSX'R.. The 1/4 was
10.886 speed I dunno? I wheelied 1st.
Last night there were 3 of us at a stoplight next to a
Viper GTS year unknown. CBR 900RR, and two
of us on gixxer 750's
The viper got all sideways for about 1/2 block, we left him way back.
He
just couldn't hook up. The next light he hooked up good, and we
still toasted him. He was really
pissed. I yelled " I only
paid 10% of what you paid for that" I am confident a $1800
modded VR-4
could have run with that Viper.
As far as corenering, I do know that my stock 91 VR-4
with a leaky strut worked a number over on my
roomates 97 YZF
1000
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 14:01:22
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From: "Paul T.
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
<stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 16:00:43
-0600
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Subject: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering
springs
>the low down on how to fix the negative camber created by
lowering
>springs.
>extra positive camber. This means make the holes
longer toward the
>engine bay, not toward the wheel.
Ron- Thanks for your reaponse! I think you
may have misinterpreted your
suspension guy, or
he's
inexperienced:
Moving the upper mounts toward the engine bay
will
increase the excessive negative camber caused by
lowering
springs.
>The rear is different because the front struts
mount to the spindles
>The rear you must elongate the sub frame where the
lower control arm
>attaches near the differential. adjuster for
>the
camber adjustment and the lower is fixed. Again, don't widen,
just
>elongate, this time toward the wheel.
Again, elongating the lower member controlling the
camber
of the rear wheel, will only increase the undesireable
excessive
negative camber resulting from lowering springs.
Regards, ptg
PS: If anyone on the list thinks I'm wrong in this
post
regarding suspension, please yell about it! I should
also say I am
assuming that positive camber is the
outward tilt of the weel/tire
centerline.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 14:53:29
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Again, elongating the lower member controlling
the camber
> of the rear wheel, will only increase the
undesireable
> excessive negative camber resulting from lowering
springs.
>
Not really. The lower arm would pull in the the lower
portion of the
wheel if moved toward the centerline of the car. Look at
the
suspension illustration in the manual. The sub frame where the
lower
control arm attaches is around the differential. The yoke that
the
control arm is bolted through is what must be elongated so you
can
move the control arm more towards the center of the car taking out
the
negative camber. see ASCII below.
/ \ this is negative camber showing wheel
angles
/_ if the horizontal line is the lower
control arm it must be moved
to the right to remove the negative
camber.
You are literally moving the pivot point of the lower
control arm to
compensate for the lack of adjustment.
It was my mistake in the original post about the
direction that the
holes need to be slotted. I corrected that. As far as my
suspension
mechanic being inexperienced, I doubt Ebby Lunken would let any
idiot
work on his Ferrari or Lamborginis. Or Jim Jaeger(former owner
of
Escort radar detectors) or a host of race car owners from 8
states
around. He is also a former McClaren crew chief. I included this
in
the original post.
I will be having this done in about a week. I will
borrow the company
digital camera and document the process.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 14:54:30
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Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 16:54:54
-0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: home
depot ram air
To: Stealth-3000 <Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Lynn! Sorry I should of Explained About the Ram
Air, I just thought =
everbody visited the 3Si.org Web page under mod's and
read about this. =
Visit it for all the Details And by the way Has Any body
Made This And =
Does it Really
Work=20
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=
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking--1999
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 17:02:25
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General motors has decided that their F-Body and saturn
cars do not need
inner shields. I see no need for the shields,
especially since you will be
changing pads <5,000 miles.
Be sure to tie the ABS line with a tie wrap or
something, as vibration will
kill wires.
Fellow road racers:
Took the first step in preparing the car today for the
1999
Porsche/Vette/5.0 wars:
I replaced the front rotors on my 94
VR4 with new PowerSlots.
As some of you may recall, last year I broke one
PowerSlot (snapped it in
half), and the company replaced both of the
rotors.
I'm leaving the old carbon metallics on for a week or
so to help season the
rotors, then I'll stick in new Performance Friction
pads a week before the
Porsche club event in Topeka.
Whilst I was in there changing rotors, I wondered if I
should remove the
shielding around each rotor. I thought I'd ask youse guys
first, since some
of you have already been there.
The shielding's purpose, I guess, is to keep dirt from
getting on the
rotor, and to provide a mount for the ABS sensor hose. It
seems like it is
also preventing cooling air from getting to the rotor
(unless those
odd-shaped projections are some kind of a demon air flow
scheme).
Does anyone know any reason why I should not remove the
shield?
Izzit OK to just let the ABS sensor hose hang loose, or should I
anchor it
somewhere with a tiewrap?
I'm planning to run a 2-in. hose from a scoop under the
front valence up to
the brakes, but with the shield in place, there doesn't
seem to be any
place to direct the air. I'm s'posed to direct the cooling air
to the
center of the rotor, so it can disperse equally.
Any ideas on any of this?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
At 05:02 PM 3/27/99 -0600, you wrote:
>General
motors has decided that their F-Body and saturn cars do not need
>inner
shields. I see no need for the shields, especially since you will
be
>changing pads <5,000 miles.
More like every 1,000 miles. A weekend at a drivers
school is a lifetime
for brake pads.
>
>Be sure to tie the ABS
line with a tie wrap or something, as vibration will
>kill
wires.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 16:47:15
1999
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From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: home depot ram air
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> Ken Taft wrote:
>
> Lynn! Sorry
I should of Explained About the Ram Air, I just thought
> everbody visited
the 3Si.org Web page under mod's and read about this.
> Visit it for all
the Details And by the way Has Any body Made This And
> Does it Really
Work
>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
I saw the original set up in the blue Stealth.
Personally I wouldn't
have done it the way he did it. Actually closing off
the filter with the
exception of what gets sucked thru the pipe doesn't seem
right. If it
didn't completely enclose the filter I'd suggest it, but I can't
say
riveting sheet metal completely around it is the best way to go.
The
best and only "true" ramair is to cut a hole in your hood and
run a
scoop right over the filter. Runnin more than a foot of pipe that
has
any kind of bend in it kills the purpose of ramair. Cause for every
inch
the air travels, it's going to slow down. And every bend severely
kills
the velocity of the air. Of course, if you completely reran the
intake
piping, relocated the air sensor and had a hole in your hood (or
a
scoop) like Brian of GT Alley had (can't believe I'm referencing to
him)
you'd have a nice ramair setup going for ya.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Mar 27 19:39:53
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Message-ID: <001501be78cd$1794a940$d5431ecc@jefyoung.ix.netcom.com>
From:
"jefyoung" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
"Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Thermostat
Date: Sat, 27 Mar 1999 20:43:01 -0700
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As I am putting the engine back together after the past
winters' =
modifications, I have come to the thermostat. ...Now I remember
when =
working on Detroit iron that a colder thermostat or no thermostat at
=
all, would always be installed. Has anybody installed a cooler
=
thermostat on their VR4/TT? What temp did you use, and did you feel
any =
difference?
Thanks
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic
Sans MS" size=3D2>As I am =
putting the engine=20
back together
after the past winters' modifications, I have come to the=20
thermostat.
...Now I remember when working on Detroit iron that a colder =
thermostat or no thermostat at all, would always be
installed. Has =
anybody=20
installed a cooler thermostat on
their VR4/TT? What temp did you =
use, and=20
did you feel any
difference?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#008080
face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2>Thanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
=
size=3D2>Jeffrey</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS" size=3D2>92
Dodge=20
RT/Turbo</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.omega-sw.com/stealth">www.omega-sw.com/stealth</A></FO=
NT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#008080 face=3D"Comic Sans
MS"=20
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Friends,
I've a ctivated the Team3S Group Purchase Information
Page. You'll find the
first GP there and hopefully some more in the future
:)
The GP on the RPS clutches for our cars (N/T and Turbo)
is ACTIVE and will stay
open till the end of the week. This time limit is due
to the long wait for up to
two months for the clutches until they are made
and shipped and some of us just
can't wait for them.
So jump to the page and write me a message to join the
GP. The more we'll get
together the better the price will be !
Thanks,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 04:35:04
1999
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From: "Bill Davis"
<wjdavis@inlink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Plug gap?
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 06:34:46 -0600
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I went and got my new plugs yesterday, and am going to
put them in =
today.
It seems to me that someone recommended a gap, other
than stock, =
039-.043 in.
My car is stock, with only K&N FIPK.
By the way got the set of plugs, plenum gasket, EGR
gasket, fuel filter, =
and 4 copper
washers for it for $99.28, that's with
tax, so parts were around $93.00.
It seem to remember that was Roger Gerl, but I can't
find the message.
Any input would be much appreciated.
Bill Davis 95 VR-4
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I went and got my new
plugs yesterday, and am going =
to put=20
them in
today.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>It seems to
me that someone recommended a gap, other =
than=20
stock, 039-.043
in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>My car is stock, with only K&N
=
FIPK.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>By the way got the set of plugs, plenum gasket,
=
EGR=20
gasket, fuel filter, and 4
copper</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>washers for
it for $99.28, that's with tax, so parts =
were=20
around
$93.00.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>It seem to remember that was Roger Gerl, but I can't =
find
the=20
message.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Any input would be much
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Bill Davis 95
VR-4</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 06:00:38
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Thermostat
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 06:55:41 -0700
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Hey Jeff:
I put in a 165 degree thermo. No
difference that I noticed but a or may be
some but not noticeable but I do
know that the car heats up real fast now as
far as the heater goes. Pep boys
can special order it for you. I think it
was $12 or something.
Cya
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
As I am putting the engine back together after the
past winters'
modifications, I have come to the thermostat. ...Now I remember
when working
on Detroit iron that a colder thermostat or no thermostat at
all, would
always be installed. Has anybody installed a cooler
thermostat on their
VR4/TT? What temp did you use, and did you feel any
difference?
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 Dodge RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth <http://www.omega-sw.com/stealth>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 06:01:05
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Whatever you don't go with no thermostat, even with
"Detroit Iron", as
the end result is that the coolant passes
through the block so fast that
it doesn't have time to pick up enough heat to
cool the engine
properly. Even when no thermostat is used, a restrictor
needs to be put
in its place to slow the flow.
Regards,
Lynn
> jefyoung wrote:
>
> As I am putting
the engine back together after the past winters'
> modifications, I have
come to the thermostat. ...Now I remember when
> working on Detroit iron
that a colder thermostat or no thermostat at
> all, would always be
installed. Has anybody installed a cooler
> thermostat on their
VR4/TT? What temp did you use, and did you feel
> any
difference?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeffrey
> 92 Dodge
RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Re: Team3S: Plug gap?
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> I went and got my new plugs yesterday, and am
going to put them in today.
> It seems to me that someone recommended a
gap, other than stock, 039-.043 in.
As you haven't increased boost the stock gap is ok. But
when you ever plan to
increase boost up to 15psi then gap them to 0.034"
or lesswith more mods.
> By the way got the set of plugs, plenum gasket,
EGR gasket, fuel filter, and
> 4 copper washers for it for $99.28, that's
with tax, so parts were around
> $93.00.
Seems to be an appropriate price.
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 06:48:38
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Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 08:48:57
-0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
To: Stealth-3000
<Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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how long does it take!
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long does
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Plug gap?
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 07:19:35 -0800
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I went and got my new plugs yesterday, and am going
to put them in today.
It seems to me that someone recommended a gap, other
than stock, 039-.043
in.
<snip>
Any input would be much
appreciated.
Bill Davis 95
VR-4
==========================
Bill...
If you plan on adding
a boost controller (or other significant mods), drop
them down to
.034"
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 09:50:41
1999
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Probably 2 months
> Ken Taft wrote:
>
> how long does it
take!
--
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 11:29:41
1999
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I'm considering my first mod, that being the
replacement of
the stock air filter with a K&N FIPK. There was a posting
on
the starnet list a while back, stating that a Blitz Core type
filter
and a HKS VPC would be a better choice than the K&N.
Opinions
please?????
Because of a variety of nonessential interests and
hobbies, my
budget for major car mods is on the slim side. Having a black
car,
I have considered having it professionally touched up, buffed out
and a new clear coat applied. The car's finish was properly taken
care
of by the previous owner, but there are the usual chips out
of the paint,
minor scratches, etc.
The costs for each of these options is about the same
($150.00).
So, I'm trying to figure out if I should just touch up
the paint
and give it a good wax job myself and install the K&N, or
put
off the K&N and have the finish worked on professionally.
(Why is
it, that a simple decision such as this becomes a major
dilemma when one
tosses in their "car of a lifetime"?)
BTW --- we switched computers about a month ago and
all
of my bookmarked pages went off into cyberspace. I've been
searching
all of the links looking for the site of the guy who is
a professional
detailer and I can't find it. I thought I remembered
it either being on, or
linked to Gregg Couture's site -- but no luck.
I just started building my own site -- it's pretty weak
right now,
but at least it has some pix of the car.
Any and all answers and flames will be
appreciated.
John Hitzeman
<A
HREF="http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Campus/5117/">3000GT-95
's
Home Page</A>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 12:28:09
1999
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Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 12:26:54 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase ! Day 1
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hey I would like to be a part of this group purchase,
what are my
choices exactly, my clutch went out in my SL and I need a new one
soon,
I assume the kit comes with the disc, pressure plate and throw
out
bearing, right? How much? how much better than a stock clutch?
Thanks, Dustin
--- "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch> wrote:
>
Friends,
>
> I've a ctivated the Team3S Group Purchase
Information
> Page. You'll find the
> first GP there and hopefully
some more in the future
> :)
>
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html
>
> The GP on the RPS clutches for our cars (N/T and
> Turbo) is
ACTIVE and will stay
> open till the end of the week. This time limit is
due
> to the long wait for up to
> two months for the clutches until
they are made and
> shipped and some of us just
> can't wait for
them.
>
> So jump to the page and write me a message to
join
> the GP. The more we'll get
> together the better the price
will be !
>
> Thanks,
> Roger
>
>
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz
DSBC/gauge/Dual
> Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
> ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko
> AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
> Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
>
> Check out:
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 12:52:28
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: "pro" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Alarm Install
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 14:52:46 -0600
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To those who have done an alarm install themselves on a
92 3S. How did you
overcome the factory alarm? is there a central unit that
can just be
unplugged? Or is the alarm part of the etacs/ECU units. after
looking at my
manual, i see no reference to any alarm unit behind the drivers
side rear
speaker. all of the alarm system wiring diagrams tie into either
the ECU or
the ETACS unit. I have yet to open the car up. I'd like to have a
wiring
scheme planned before i start. Any help would be appreciated. thank
you.
Omar
92 r/t
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 13:06:51
1999
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> the stock air filter with a K&N FIPK. There
was a posting on
> the starnet list a while back, stating that a Blitz
Core type
> filter and a HKS VPC would be a better choice than the
K&N.
> Opinions please?????
If you install a VPC then a VPC-adapter must be choosen
as well. There is no
Blitz adapter avaible and must be custom done or it
comes with a non-Blitz kit.
But you must also know that if you buy something
like that the stock MAS cannot
be used and a VPC must be used instead
!
> Because of a variety of nonessential interests and
hobbies, my
> budget for major car mods is on the slim side.
Then you'll not install a VPC ($850) and other fuel
mods needed for it (mucho
$$).
> So, I'm trying to figure out if I should just
touch up the paint
> and give it a good wax job myself and install the
K&N, or put
> off the K&N and have the finish worked on
professionally.
Get the K&N (it helps and even more on a NA) and do
the wax job with Zaino
polish. It did a great job when I got back my car with
the new paint. Here's the
link : http://www.zainobros.com/ Tell Sal Zaino
that Roger from Switzerland sent
you :)
> Any and all answers and flames will be
appreciated.
No, not on this list !
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 14:08:26
1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: First Mod and Missing Link
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 16:09:13
-0600
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snip
> I'm considering my first mod, that being
the replacement of
> the stock air filter with a K&N FIPK. There was a
posting on
> the starnet list a while back, stating that a Blitz Core
type
> filter and a HKS VPC would be a better choice than the
K&N.
> Opinions please?????
snip
A Blitz Core type will flow better then a K&N
regardless of other mods.
There's also need for any filtercharger kit when
cleaning. Just wash with
water.
Omar
92 r/t
> There's also need for any filtercharger kit
when cleaning. Just wash with
> water.
i meant NO need. sorry.
Omar
92 r/t
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 16:11:15
1999
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Team3S: Clutch cross post
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Has any member of this group who subscribes to the
other 3S groups,
cross posted on the clutch group purchase??? The time window
is short,
so a few more added to the tally will give us the next price break.
I
remain steadfastly a solo subscriber so I am a bit in the dark as
to
what traffic is on the other lists. The price is good and can be
even
better with a few more in on the purchase. Go to Roger's home page
for
additional information on the purchase for those interested.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 18:40:49
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From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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How long does what take?
Ken Taft wrote:
> how long does it take!
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How long does what take?
<p>Ken Taft
wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE> <font
color="#000000"><font size=-1>how long
does it
take!</font></font></blockquote>
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Leland;
I believe Ken meant how long would it take before you
queried his
question <grin> Actually, I believe the question was
directed at the
clutch group order, and queried how long would it take before
one
received their order. The answer at this point seems to be around the
2+
month period, but Roger will advise more accurately on this as the
close
date nears, as he's the lead man on the purchase.
Best
Darc
Leland Gray wrote:
> How long does what take?
>
> Ken
Taft wrote:
>
>> how long does it
take!
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 21:28:40
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pressure gauge install
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 23:25:06
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The snow has melted here in Minnesota and my car is
still not ready for =
the road :( Next in line is the
installation of the Autometer fuel =
pressure gauge. Does anyone have
any suggestions where to install the =
fuel pressure sender and how to
connect it? The sender unit has one =
inlet. It looks kind of
like the stock oil pressure sender. I just =
don't see how to install
it with the hardware supplied. Maybe I need =
some more connectors to
tap into the fuel line. Any help would be =
greatly
appreciated.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
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4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The snow has melted
here in Minnesota and my car is =
still not=20
ready for the road
:( Next in line is the installation of
=
the=20
Autometer fuel pressure gauge. Does anyone have any
suggestions =
where to=20
install the fuel pressure sender and how to
connect it? The sender =
unit=20
has one inlet. It
looks kind of like the stock oil pressure =
sender. =20
I just
don't see how to install it with the hardware supplied. =
Maybe
I=20
need some more connectors to tap into the fuel line. Any help
=
would be=20
greatly
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>'95 R/T
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0330_01BE7972.36A3F520--
Well, turns out I'd missed a couple steps in the
install. I'm just thankfull it was
running rich and not lean. The
injectors still max, but not nearly so easily. I had Mike
Mahaffey look
at it, the install's ok and he thinks it's runnin pretty strong. I think
I
can feel a difference, hard for me to say though. I spend too much
time in an older
Prelude, the 3000 isn't a daily driver anymore. I was
trying to conserve fuel, so I still
need to play with it a bit, but it seems
to be able to hold near .80 atmosphere to redline
in 2nd now, so that's alot
better.
Thanks to everyone who helped, sorry to waste so much
bandwidth on a dumb mistake.
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Mar 28 22:53:56
1999
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Team3S: g p on the clutch
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what models and years does this g p cover
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 02:39:36
1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 04:39:59
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From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: how
long does it take
To: Stealth-3000 <Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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I Just wanted to see how long it took to get the
message: how long does =
it take back to my computer after i sent
it.
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I Just wanted to see
how long it took to get the =
message: how=20
long does it take back to my
computer after i
sent=20
it.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 06:26:30
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Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 08:39:30
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From:
Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pressure gauge install
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Oskar,
Is the fuel pressure sender you refer to a
electrical sending unit, or a
pressure isolator? If it is a elec. sending
unit, i would remove the fuel rails
and tap into one of them. I'm sure the
thread size is 1/8" NPT. You could also
cut the inlet line between the
filter and fuel rails and use a brass tee
connector, but i would recomend
against trusting hose clamps to hold that kind
of pressure.
On the other hand, if it is a pressure isolator (used
on the mech gages) all i
can say is, GOOD LUCK.......Iv'e never known anyone,
including myself, who was
able to get one of those things bled and working
properly.
Whatever you decide, just make sure you mount it
somewhere between the fuel
filter and the fuel pressure
regulator..........good luck...
Wayne
At 11:25 PM 3/28/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>
Does anyone have any suggestions where to install the fuel pressure
sender
> and how to connect it? The sender unit has one inlet.
It looks kind of like
> the stock oil pressure sender. I just don't
see how to install it with the
> hardware supplied.
>
>
Oskar
> '95 R/T TT
--=====================_1614851==_.ALT
Content-Type:
text/html; charset="us-ascii"
<html>
Oskar,<br>
Is the fuel
pressure sender you refer to a electrical sending unit, or a
pressure
isolator? If it is a elec. sending unit, i would remove the fuel
rails and
tap into one of them. I'm sure the thread size is 1/8"
NPT. You
could also cut the inlet line between the filter and fuel rails
and use a
brass tee connector, but i would recomend against trusting hose
clamps to
hold that kind of pressure. <br>
<br>
On the other hand, if it
is a pressure isolator (used on the mech gages)
all i can say is, GOOD
LUCK.......Iv'e never known anyone, including
myself, who was able to get one
of those things bled and
working
properly.<br>
<br>
Whatever you decide, just make
sure you mount it somewhere between the
fuel filter and the fuel pressure
regulator..........good luck...<br>
<br>
Wayne
<br>
<br>
At 11:25 PM 3/28/99 -0600, you wrote:
<br>
<font size=2><blockquote type=cite cite>Does anyone
have any suggestions
where to install the fuel pressure sender and how to
connect it?
The sender unit has one inlet. It looks kind
of like the stock oil
pressure sender. I just don't see how to
install it with the
hardware
supplied.</font><br>
<br>
<font
size=2>Oskar</font><br>
'95 R/T
TT</blockquote><br>
</html>
--=====================_1614851==_.ALT--
-----Original Message-----
From: PFloyd91@aol.com [mailto:PFloyd91@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday,
March 28, 1999 11:29 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: First Mod and Missing Link
<snip>
So, I'm trying to figure
out if I should just touch up the paint
and give it a good wax job myself and
install the K&N, or put
off the K&N and have the finish worked on
professionally.
(Why is it, that a simple decision such as this becomes a
major
dilemma when one tosses in their "car of a
lifetime"?)
<snip>
John Hitzeman
=============================
John...
I doubt you'll find much performance increase with an
aftermarket intake and
no other mods. Personally, I'd want my car to look as
nice as possible if I
wasn't on a direct path to future mods. On the other
hand, any mod step is a
step. Choices, choices...
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 07:55:20
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Team3S: Parts For Sale:
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I'm buying a 95 VR4 and need to sell the following
parts that came off
my
92 Stealth R/T TT AWD
All parts will be shipped via UPS - COD. I will
pay 50% shipping if UPS
GROUND,
UPS 2nd day or next day you pay 100%
shipping.
NEW PARTS are all 10% to 15% OFF from what I
paid.
NEW PRICE SALE
PRICE
===============================================================
Stainless
Steel Brake Lines
(DOT)
$270 $240
Poterfield R4 Front Brake Pads (91-93
only) $160 $140
Poterfield R4 Rear
Break Pads (91-99)
$100 $ 90
ATE Super Blue Racing Brake
Fluid $
15 $ 13 *
*FREE if you purchase 3 items
above.
USED PARTS are all 30% - 60% OFF from what new ones
cost.
NEW PRICE SALE
PRICE
================================================================
Alamo's
Stainless Steel Down Pipe w/ (91-93)
$540 $270
Stainless Steel TEST
PIPE
$ 90 $ 50
Cusco Aluminum Rear Strut
Bar
$255 $200 (Like New)
K&N FIPK CARB
Approved
$155 $ 90
1st Gen DSM BOV w/ Buschur's
adaptor
$125 $ 70
Buschur's Short
Shifter
$100 $ 60
Hella H4 Headlight
Conversion
$ 70 $ 40
55/45 Watts clear H4
bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
55/45 Watts yellow H4 bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
100/85 Watts clear H4
bulbs
$ 25 $ 15
BORLA SS catback
exhaust
$480 $200 **
**with exchange of your
stock one. (must be willing to travel to
Michigan)
Green 92 Dodge Stealth R/T TT,
74,000mi $44000 $11000 ***
75%
OFF *** :)
New ACT 6puck racing clutch
New 255/40ZR17 Yokohama
Nexus tires
New Transfercase
Rebuilt 25 spline 5 speed
transmission
Crossdrilled rotors, Metal Matrix pads,
RSR springs,
magnecore 8.5mm wires, etc.
Dealership only offered me low $9k for
trade-in
Thanks,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 09:34:59
1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> what models and years does this g p
cover
All models and all year :)
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 09:39:30
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> > There's also need for any filtercharger kit
when cleaning. Just wash with
> > water.
>
> i meant NO
need. sorry.
Maybe I did not sayed this the right way ... the Blitz
SUS does not fit the
stock MAS and can only be used with an adapter if
available or with a VPC mod.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 10:14:18
1999
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Joshua,
Yes, the test pipe replaces the catalytic converter and
allows me to
hook it up to the BORLA or the stock exhaust.
Yes the strut brace will work on a 94 VR4.
Jose
Joshua wrote:
>
>
> Iwas curious
about the test pipe and Rear strut brace. Is the test pipe the
>
piece which goe sin place of the ctalytice converter yet allows you to
hook
> it up to the borla exhaust? Also will the strut brace work on
a 94 vr-4?
> Thanks
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
josesini
> To: Team3S List; Stealth List
> Sent: 3/29/99 10:55
AM
> Subject: Team3S: Parts For Sale:
>
> I'm buying a 95 VR4
and need to sell the following parts that came off
> my
> 92 Stealth
R/T TT AWD
>
> All parts will be shipped via UPS - COD. I
will pay 50% shipping if UPS
> GROUND,
> UPS 2nd day or next day you
pay 100% shipping.
>
> PLEASE respond to me via private email at josesini@engin.umich.edu
>
> NEW PARTS are all 10% to 15% OFF from what I
paid.
>
NEW PRICE SALE PRICE
>
===============================================================
>
Stainless Steel Brake Lines
(DOT)
$270 $240
> Poterfield R4 Front Brake Pads
(91-93 only) $160 $140
>
Poterfield R4 Rear Break Pads
(91-99)
$100 $ 90
> ATE Super Blue Racing Brake
Fluid $
15 $ 13 *
> *FREE if you purchase 3 items
above.
>
> USED PARTS are all 30% - 60% OFF from what new ones
cost.
>
NEW PRICE SALE PRICE
>
================================================================
> Alamo's
Stainless Steel Down Pipe w/ (91-93)
$540 $270
> Stainless Steel TEST
PIPE
$ 90 $ 50
> Cusco Aluminum Rear Strut
Bar
$255 $200 (Like New)
> K&N FIPK
CARB
Approved
$155 $ 90
> 1st Gen DSM BOV w/
Buschur's adaptor
$125 $ 70
> Buschur's Short
Shifter
$100 $ 60
> Hella H4 Headlight
Conversion
$ 70 $ 40
> 55/45 Watts clear H4
bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
> 55/45 Watts yellow H4 bulbs
(new) $
15 $ 10
> 100/85 Watts clear H4
bulbs
$ 25 $ 15
>
> BORLA SS catback
exhaust
$480 $200 **
> **with exchange of your
stock one. (must be willing to travel to
> Michigan)
>
>
Green 92 Dodge Stealth R/T TT, 74,000mi
$44000 $11000 *** 75%
> OFF *** :)
> New ACT
6puck racing clutch
> New 255/40ZR17 Yokohama Nexus tires
> New
Transfercase
> Rebuilt 25 spline 5 speed transmission
> Crossdrilled
rotors, Metal Matrix pads,
> RSR springs, magnecore 8.5mm wires,
etc.
> Dealership only offered me low $9k for trade-in
>
>
PLEASE contact me via private email at josesini@engin.umich.edu.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jose - Buying a 95 VR4...
> josesini@engin.umich.edu
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 12:19:23
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To:
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Subject:
Team3S: Question about clutch install
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 14:17:54
-0600
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Hey everyone,
I'm definitely in need of a new clutch in the near
future, but I haven't
decided on a aftermarket or stock unit. The group
purchase thing is
tempting. The one question I have is how many hours
of labor will it take.
My Mitsubishi dealer said 9-10 hours, but it seems to
me some on the list
said 7-8 hours. Just wanted to get a feel from the
group. If I can
convince my Dealer that it should only take 7-8 hours I
know he will only
charge me for that. hehe.
Anybody know how much boost you can run with no fuel
system modifications
on a 1st gen with 13g turbos before experiencing
detonation or fuel cut????
Also, will 14psi (if that falls within the range above)
with the 13g's give
you more power than the 9b's with the selenoid bypassed??
(~17psi)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 12:33:33
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question about clutch install
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 12:20:55
-0700
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>Hey everyone,
>
>. The one
question I have is how many hours of labor will it take.
>My Mitsubishi
dealer said 9-10 hours, but it seems to me some on the list
>said 7-8
hours. Just wanted to get a feel from the group. If I
can
>convince my Dealer that it should only take 7-8 hours I know he will
only
>charge me for that. hehe.
>
the dealer should quote a repair cost from the rate
book --- if it
takes two hours he bills for ten if it takes twenty he bills
for ten.
Some shops bill actual time but most use some kind of rate
book.
Some of these clutch shops are much cheeper but as
I do my own work I don't
know about the quality of work. Just
make sure they do the throwout bearing
and pilot bushing.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 12:43:10
1999
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Mon, 29 Mar 1999 22:41:31 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: How much boost...
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> Anybody know how much boost you can run with no
fuel system modifications
> on a 1st gen with 13g turbos before
experiencing detonation or fuel cut????
Detonation starts around 1.00bars depending on the
ambient. Therefore with a
healthy engine 15 psi is ok but the injectors are
getting maxed out quickly !
> Also, will 14psi (if that falls within the range
above) with the 13g's give
> you more power than the 9b's with the
selenoid bypassed?? (~17psi)
No, but also 17psi is not healthy to the engine without
fuel mods. The 13Gs
change the power range and increase the max tourque in
the mod rpms.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 12:43:24
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Re: Team3S: How much boost...
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> Anybody know how much boost you can run with no
fuel system modifications
> on a 1st gen with 13g turbos before
experiencing detonation or fuel cut????
Detonation starts around 1.00bars depending on the
ambient. Therefore with a
healthy engine 15 psi is ok but the injectors are
getting maxed out quickly !
> Also, will 14psi (if that falls within the range
above) with the 13g's give
> you more power than the 9b's with the
selenoid bypassed?? (~17psi)
No, but also 17psi is not healthy to the engine without
fuel mods. The 13Gs
change the power range and increase the max tourque in
the mod rpms.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 12:48:54
1999
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Re: Team3S: How much boost...
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Hi Wayne;
you wrote:
> Anybody know how much boost you can run with no
fuel system modifications
> on a 1st gen with 13g turbos before
experiencing detonation or fuel cut????
The Dyno trials in Europe on the 3S cars indicate that
1 bar (about 15psi) will be the
max you can run. Exceeding it may seem okay
for awhile but you'll buy into big problems.
>
>
> Also, will 14psi (if that falls
within the range above) with the 13g's give
> you more power than the 9b's
with the selenoid bypassed?? (~17psi)
Increasing the turbo size won't really offer you much
more power without fuel system
upgrades. It's best to look at what Barry,
Jack, Roger, etc have done in terms of
balancing their packagew before you
test the depth of the water with booth feet.
Otherwise it can become costly,
and disheartening.
Best
Darc
I can't believe only one person has an opinion about
removing the dust
shield on VR4 brakes.
Does this mean all the road racers from last year have
left the discussion
groups?
I guess i should have said earlier. The blitz SUS is
available from nexus
motorsports as the N-speed type R filter. They sell the
adapter with it,
which is custom made by them. Didn't really want to seem
like i was
endorsing anyone..
Omar
92 r/t
> Maybe I did not sayed this the right way ...
the Blitz SUS does
> not fit the
> stock MAS and can only be used
with an adapter if available or
> with a VPC mod.
>
>
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 15:04:02
1999
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From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 16:19:20
-0800
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I have an opinion.
My VR4 would eat its front rotors every couple of
months. I tried just
about every permutation that I could think of
until I found one that
worked:-
I removed the backing plates, cut two slots in the
"Active Aero" front dam
and piped a cold air feed using Home Depot
flexible aluminum air duct, and
switched to Axxis metal max
pads.
I have since put 30,000 fast miles on a new set of
stock rotors. When it
rains I turn off the Active Aero to minimize
water spray from the ducts -
the slots in the front air dam were cut, so
that they are covered when the
dam retracts. 130+ to zero stops are
fade free and my rotors do not warp.
Steve C
I can't believe only one person has an opinion about
removing the dust
shield on VR4 brakes.
Does this mean all the road racers from last year have
left the discussion
groups?
Curt, there is no way they should charge you that
much. Performance
shops usually charge for 5.5 to 7 hours of
labor. My clutch install, due
to get done this weekend, is running me
roughly 5.5 hours of labor fees.
Hope this saves you some
money.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 15:22:30
1999
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Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
At 04:19 PM 3/29/99 -0800, you wrote:
>I have an
opinion.
>I removed the backing plates, cut two slots in the "Active
Aero" front dam
>and piped a cold air feed using Home Depot flexible
aluminum air duct
Wow. Cutting holes in the dam sounds kind of drastic.
I'm trying to imagine
how that would work. Where did the duct work go when
you retracted the dam?
>
>I have since put 30,000 fast miles on a new
set of stock rotors. When it
>rains I turn off the Active Aero to
minimize water spray from the ducts -
>the slots in the front air dam
were cut, so that they are covered when the
>dam retracts.
This is the part I don't get -- If you retract the dam,
doesn't it leave
the ducts exposed?
130+ to zero stops are fade free and my rotors do not
warp.
That's what I'm looking for. Please explain
further how it works.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 15:51:24
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Merrit wrote ;
I can't believe only one person has
an opinion about removing the dust
shield on VR4 brakes.
Does this mean all the road racers from last year have
left the discussion
groups?
Nag, Nag, Nag
:) I removed mine last year. Cut
them off with a dremel
cut off wheel ( several). Left just one portion on
that hold the speed sensor
cable. Can't say if it helped. Theoretically
it should. Right now I am
fitting some aluminum sheet metal to the back of
the spindle in an attempt to
get more cooling to the rotors. Trying to shape
them to pick up air from under
car, and possible hook into a custom 3/4
spoiler.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 16:13:13
1999
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 17:26:42
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Drastic yes, not for the faint hearted, but less
expensive than a Brembo
upgrade, and safer than drilled rotors.
The duct goes inside the airdam. I took the air
dam off to find the best
location for the ducts. Taking the air dam
off takes 30 min, routing and
fabricating the ducts took approximately 4
hrs.
In order to determine the best location for the slots,
I switched the aero
on and off and marked up the level on the front of the
dam which retracted
up into the nose cone. Then I marked-up 6" x
2" slots on either side of
the dam, and re-checked that the marked-up
are would fully retract within
the nose cone. This took a couple of
attempts.
Next, I cut the slots and fabricated a ram-cone
(between the dam and the
ducting) out of plastic and duct tape (ugly but
hidden by the dam). Then I
wired the outlet end of the ducts to the
front A-arm (this also took a
couple of attempts before I got all of the
clearances right.
Finally, I replaced the dam and re-worked some of the
plumbing in the
process.
I took the whole assembly off to do some other work,
and managed to warp my
rotors within a week.
I removed mine last year. Cut them off with a
dremel
>cut off wheel ( several). Left just one portion on that hold the
speed sensor
>cable.
Wouldn't it have been easier to just take out the three
little bolts
holding it in?
>Can't say if it helped.
But it didn't hurt, I take it.
Theoretically it should. Right now I am
>fitting
some aluminum sheet metal to the back of the spindle in an attempt to
>get
more cooling to the rotors. Trying to shape them to pick up air
from
under
>car, and possible hook into a custom 3/4
spoiler.
Take and post a picture when you get it
done.
Rich/old poop
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 17:45:35
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From:
Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking 1999
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At 05:26 PM 3/29/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Drastic
yes, not for the faint hearted, but less expensive than a Brembo
>upgrade, and safer than drilled rotors.
I am impressed by your ingenuity and willingness to do
all that work.
I've had a weird idea for tying cooling ducts into the
air dam. Tell me if
this would work:
1. Attach a metal bar to the air dam that extends 12
in. on both sides.
2. Attach a folding or hinged scoop to the metal bar so
that when the bar
drops down with the air dam, the scoop opens up. When the
air dam is up,
the scoop closes and disappears.
3. Route 2-in. hose from
the back of the scoop to the rotors.
The ideal places for the scoop and hose are the 5 x 9
in. openings in the
valence on both sides of the air dam. Whaddaya
think? Would this work? Can
a bar be attached to the bottom of the air
dam?
At the moment, I have a couple scoops, and plan to
fabricate a cooling
system using the 5 x 9 openings. The problem with this
solution is the
scoops protrude about 2 in. under the valence, and can easily
be ripped off
by a curb or other obstacle. With the air dam idea, they would
be up out of
the way during normal driving.
Rich/old poop
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 18:14:46
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch cross post
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Darc,
I posted it on the dragnet list.
Regards,
Lynn
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Has any member of this group who subscribes to the other 3S
groups,
> cross posted on the clutch group purchase??? The time window is
short,
> so a few more added to the tally will give us the next price
break. I
> remain steadfastly a solo subscriber so I am a bit in the dark
as to
> what traffic is on the other lists. The price is good and can be
even
> better with a few more in on the purchase. Go to Roger's home page
for
> additional information on the purchase for those interested.
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 18:24:45
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Hey Steven;
Sounds like a worthy project..a couple more vents with
ducts into the engine bay might
also lower temps there. Just a thought. Also,
would drilling small holes along the
bottom of the tubing allow for water
drainage if you wanted to, or needed to, run it
functional in the
rain??
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 19:10:14
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: g p on the clutch
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<36FFB918.ED1A5FE5@swissonline.ch>
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Roger, are you sure, the RPS link only shows to 94 or
95. If they will
fit a 96 VR4, I'll sign up.
Ron
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 20:13:14
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Subject: Team3S: Bad clutch master or slave cyl?
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I've been having problems with the clutch on my '91
VR4. Once or twice a day
now I get a nearly resistance-less motion on the
clutch pedal for about half
the clutch pedal stroke when I step on the pedal
to shift. The clutch does
disengage, allowing me to shift, but when I let out
the pedal once again the
clutch hooks up much earlier than normal (i.e. the
clutch did not go full
travel when I stepped on the clutch pedal to shift -
it just went far enough
to barely disengage)
I can get the clutch to return to normal operation by
stepping on the clutch
pedal several times while in neutral. I intrepret this
as building up pressure
in the system once again. I had the system bled
several days ago - didn't
help.
So, I think I have a bad master or slave cylinder. But
which one? I don't have
any leakage from the slave and the level of the fluid
in the reservior doesn't
change as far as I can tell, so I think the master
is bad.
That is all fine and dandy, but a Mitsu parts dealer
who posted to this group
tells me that he sells a few slaves now and then,
but doesn't even stock the
master as he never sells any. Hmmm.
I need as many replies as I can get reporting failure
of either the slave or
master cylinder for the clutch. Also please report
year and model - SL, VR4,
RT, RT/TT, etc. I'm trying to get a better idea of
the regularity of failures
for the slave vs. master. This will help me make a
more educated wag. Please
private email to me. I'll tally the results and
post for others general
knowledge.
Thanks!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 21:40:10
1999
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Hi,
I am thinking of switching over to GAB Sport
struts on my '91 R/T TT and was
wondering who has the best prices for
them. So far, I've only seen prices in
the $750.00-$800.00 range.
Is there anywhere lower than that?
Thanks,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Mar 29 22:26:01
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: GAB Sport strut prices
Date: Mon, 29 Mar 1999 23:25:50
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I don't know who has the best price but I got mine from
Chien at Nexus for a
decent deal last year sometime.
I'm sure you weren't serious about the kidney pounding
bit, but I think
you'll find the GABs to be firm yet supple.
Hrmmm...sounds
like...nevermind. Best not to go there.
I consider the GABs on my '94 the single best
improvement period, and that
includes the addition of all the go fast
goodies. GABs rule.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
Hi,
>
> I am thinking of switching over to GAB Sport
struts on my '91
> R/T TT and was
> wondering who has the best
prices for them. So far, I've only
> seen prices in
> the
$750.00-$800.00 range. Is there anywhere lower than that?
>
>
Thanks,
>
> -Dave Rich
> '91 R/T (soon to be a kidney pounder)
TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 05:25:45
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Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 08:27:37 -0500
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From:
Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: GAB
Sport strut prices
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RD Enterprises, I believe has the cheapest prices on
these. They can be
found at www.shox.com
If I remember correctly mine were 768 shipped for all
4.
Be prepared to wait for the struts for a while, I ordered mine in
December
and finally received them in February. The guys at RD are great
though. It
was completely the fault of GAB, since they do not stock these
units in the
US.
I finally have installed the GAB's on my 93 VR4. They
are a fantastic
improvement. I matched them up with a set of H&R springs
and 275/40/17
Firestone SZ 50's from Tire Rack at the same time and the car
handles
fantastic. I will have some pictures scanned in soon. Just got
them
developed. The fronts took about 3 hours to do and the backs were about
2
hours. Now I just have to get it re-aligned. Well worth the
price!
Car handled fine at Summit Point drivers school where I
just got back from
instructing this weekend. Car does 140mph on the front
straight with nary a
wiggle, and that is only cruising out of turn 10 at
about 50mph. I didn't
want to have to find the limit of the brakes in turn 1.
Scares the students
silly =:o
> I am thinking of switching over to GAB
Sport struts on my '91 R/T TT and
was
>wondering who has the best
prices for them. So far, I've only seen prices in
>the
$750.00-$800.00 range. Is there anywhere lower than that?
-shawn dewey
'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy
hands of a new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91 Talon TSI AWD
13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car
(SSC class)
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 05:47:09
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Shawn,
Is changing the struts something someone with average
hand tools can do
at home?
Regards,
Lynn
Shawn Dewey wrote:
>
> I finally have
installed the GAB's on my 93 VR4. They are a fantastic
> improvement. I
matched them up with a set of H&R springs and 275/40/17
> Firestone SZ
50's from Tire Rack at the same time and the car handles
> fantastic. I
will have some pictures scanned in soon. Just got them
> developed. The
fronts took about 3 hours to do and the backs were about 2
> hours. Now I
just have to get it re-aligned. Well worth the price!
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 07:41:49
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad clutch master or
slave cyl?
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Paul:
>I've been having problems with the clutch on my '91
VR4. Once or twice
>a day
>now I get a nearly resistance-less
motion on the clutch pedal for
>about half
>the clutch pedal stroke
when I step on the pedal to shift. The clutch
<major snip>
Sounds like the same problem I am correcting
today. VR4's have a
vacuum assist for the clutch.
Mine failed as part of a combination of
things relative to clutch
replacement. I think the part was like $150
from Tall. Mitsu.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Greetings
folks,
I'd like to verify if the
brake bleeder screw size for the '97
3000GT
VR4 is 1.0x10mm. I
talked to a Speedbleeder rep. and she informed
me
that this was the size she had
in her "majik decoder ring" book
but
she also warned me that she
received a few returns from a
certain
3000GT club members 'cuz
the bleeders don't fit in their cars.
I also
checked with my local Mitsu parts dept. and all he has
for
size is 'M10' for all four
corners.
Any help is
appreciated.
Thanks!
-sankar
--
*******************************************************************************
You
claim a birthright you have forsaken?
I have not forsaken my heritage. I am
Klingon. My heart is of
this world. My blood is as
yours.
-- Duras and Worf, "Sins of the Father",
stardate
43685.2
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 08:51:31
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Re: Team3S: Bad clutch master or slave cyl?
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had the same thing happen to me......mechanic said dont
replace the master unless you
replace the slave as well......i replace the
master.....a month later the slave went
out and it cost me more...........i
would do both......youve got a nice car......dont
cut corners on something as
small a cost as that.....do em both.....just my
experience......take it for
what its worth
> I've been having problems with the clutch on my
'91 VR4. Once or twice a day
> now I get a nearly resistance-less motion
on the clutch pedal for about half
> the clutch pedal stroke when I step
on the pedal to shift. The clutch does
> disengage, allowing me to shift,
but when I let out the pedal once again the
> clutch hooks up much earlier
than normal (i.e. the clutch did not go full
> travel when I stepped on
the clutch pedal to shift - it just went far enough
> to barely
disengage)
>
> I can get the clutch to return to normal operation by
stepping on the clutch
> pedal several times while in neutral. I intrepret
this as building up pressure
> in the system once again. I had the system
bled several days ago - didn't
> help.
>
> So, I think I have
a bad master or slave cylinder. But which one? I don't have
> any leakage
from the slave and the level of the fluid in the reservior doesn't
>
change as far as I can tell, so I think the master is bad.
>
> That
is all fine and dandy, but a Mitsu parts dealer who posted to this group
>
tells me that he sells a few slaves now and then, but doesn't even stock
the
> master as he never sells any. Hmmm.
>
> I need as many
replies as I can get reporting failure of either the slave or
> master
cylinder for the clutch. Also please report year and model - SL, VR4,
>
RT, RT/TT, etc. I'm trying to get a better idea of the regularity of
failures
> for the slave vs. master. This will help me make a more
educated wag. Please
> private email to me. I'll tally the results and
post for others general
> knowledge.
>
>
Thanks!
>
> Paul Klusman
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 09:27:09
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Team3S: Daily Driver
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Every one on this list, knows as well as I do, that
owning one of our
cars can be very expensive. Many people have been
working on lowering
the cost of owning our vehicles. I think this is a
commendable a effort,
and as far as myself I would like to add something
else. How to
purchase cheap reliable transportation. The daily
driver is a very
important tool that is widely overlooked, as a way of
cutting ownership
cost of our vehicles. I found out through the years
that you can buy a
good second vehicle for around 1200 to 2000 bucks. You
might ask how can
you get a price like that on a vehicle very simple auto
auctions. That
is where I bought my car when I was in collage. I paid
550 bucks for it
cash. This price included tax. Auctions are
everywhere and in every
city most dealers don't like you to go to them
because at auctions you
can get a car at wholesale price and most of the time
below wholesale
value. When looking for an auction in your area check
the yellow pages
and call the auction houses and ask them are you open to the
general
public eight out of nine our only a few are dealer only. Before you
go
make sure and buy an, NADA book that has the retail value along with
the
wholesale value of the car. This is a great tool for spotting the
good
deal. Still another avenue to check for vehicle are banks and
Credit
Union,. Banks and Credit Unions reposes cars and sale them for
what
ever they can get and most don't really advertise the vehicles for
sale,
but most of the vehicles for sale or like a year old or a little
order.
I saw many awesome deals out their. I once even saw a two year old
VR4
that got reposed for sale. I believe it sold for around 22k.
Remember
they don't car how much they get the highest bidder get the vehicle.
As
far as vehicle inspecting, check bring someone with you or read up
on
things to look for when purchasing a vehicle. I am trying to keep
this
post short, so I will not go into that.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 10:20:30
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Date:
Tue, 30 Mar 1999 10:20:26 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization:
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> I'd like
to verify if the brake bleeder screw size for the '97
3000GT
> VR4 is
1.0x10mm. I talked to a Speedbleeder rep. and she informed
me
> that this was the
size she had in her "majik decoder ring" book
but
> she also warned me
that she received a few returns from a
certain
> 3000GT club
members 'cuz the bleeders don't fit in their cars.
Hi Sankar,
You could always pull one front screw and one back
screw and compare
their sizes and thread pitch. Or you could just order
both sizes, then
return the unused ones. So far, I've only heard of
these two sizes for
our cars: 10 mm x 1.0, part # SB1010; and 7
mm x 1.0, part # SB7100.
These are great! Order an SB1010 for your
clutch slave cylinder too.
Good luck.
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 11:21:58
1999
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I am curious what the purpose of the
pressure switch on the power steering
pump is? This is on my '91 NT 3000GT
and it is ont the top of the p.s. pump.
Anyone know what it
does?
> Is changing the struts something someone with
average hand tools can do
> at home?
I recently changed my struts and springs myself.
I used the
instructions from the posts below. I was planning on
rewritting the
instructions for the do-it-yourselfer but haven't gotten
around to it
yet. However, here are a few pointers.
Note the position of the front camber adjustment bolts
before you loosen
them.
I removed the front assemblies, then took them to a
local tire shop
(with a spring compressor) to swap the hardware. It
cost $40. You
could rent a spring compressor and do it yourself but
this is very
dangerous!
For the rear struts top mount, I used a small pipe
wrench to hold the
large washer with 'flats', then used a wrench to turn the
nut. If you
use a wrench to hold the strut shaft instead of the large
washer, you
will bung up the threads on the ECS strut.
Note that the rear strut lower mount hole is flared, so
put it on the
flared stud correctly.
When installing the rear top mount, pull the metal
spacer (that fits on
the strut shaft) up so that it sits only halfway into
the top rubber
bushing. Then place the lower washer over spacer.
Next, place the top
washer and nut on. The top washer will rest on the
spacer while the
bottom washer will fit around the spacer. Thus when
you tighten the
nut, the spacer will be pushed all the way to the stop and
you will
assured that the lower washer will be around the spacer instead
of
offset and resting on the top of the spacer.
Good luck,
Ken
------- Included file from Henri Feusi
-------------
ATTENTION:
You _DO_NOT_
need a spring compressor to replace the rear struts.
You can replace the struts in about 30
minutes(15min a piece).
I have done this twice(during intermission while watching a
Penguins
Hockety Game), and it is extremely simple.
Do the
following:
1. Place a
standard 2 ton hydraulic shop jack(the one with the long
handle) directly under the lower arm on your rear
end of your
suspension - make sure it is a solid
point.
2. Jack the car
up until the wheel is off the ground - you will
have
to jack quite a bit since you are jacking the car
up on the
suspension, and the spring is
compressing.
***
IMPORTANT SAFETY TIP*** Place a jack stand raised to the proper
level under the regular jack point on the car
****
3. At this point,
remove the wheel(you might want to crack the lugs
on
the ground before jacking if you don't have an air
impact wrench).
4. Now,
from inside the car, remove the strut covers in the trunk
located under the roll-up tarp.
5. Remove the rubber
dust cup, tehn unplug the wiring harnes from
the
strut.
6. Loosen the
BIG nut on the strut - you may require two wrenches
to
do this, one to keep the center from rotating, and
one to do the
work.
Do this slowly just to
be safe(if you did not compress the spring
enough,
you may experience a surprise :)- completely remove
the
nut.
7. Go back under the car, and remove the bolt
holding the strut in
place. Once removed, you may
require a bit of prying effor to get
the
strut
to slide off the lower mount.
8. Once the strut is off the lower mount, you'r
done! Slide it out
and
you are ready to put the
new one in.
OPTIONAL - but cool
looking.
** If you wish
to check/paint your springs(Yellow is always nice),
this is a good time to lower the jack slowly(leave the jack stand
in
place). The spring will decompress and you can
simply remove that
as
well.***
Installation is reversal of
removal.
NOTES:
Mitsubishi replaced their struts after 92 with a
"one size fits
all"
model. There
is a TSB on this, and and easy fix. The 91(92
too?)'VR4's had a small spacer installed under the retaining nut,
this
was removed on later models because the strut is
just a little
shorter. You cannot buy the older
struts anymore, so you are stuck
with the shorter
ones. - This is not a problem, just discard the
spacer and you'll be OK.
While you are at it, I recommend purchasing new
Rubber stops -
these
get worn pretty bad, and if
they are torn, they are no good.
Should
be
small $$ at a mitsu dealer.
I can provide picture
of the strut installtion if anyone requires
them.
It's a SIMPLE and
SAFE procedure.
H.
---------------- Included file from Jose
----------------
Henry,
First of all, thanks for the post about the rear
struts.
Now, for the front ECS struts:
1) loosen lug nuts, raise front and put on jack stands
(for safety),
remove
wheel.
2) Open your hood, remove the 3 nuts on the strut
assembly, remove the
rubber
dust cover. Now you'll see the ECS
electrical connector. Just pull it
straight
out, do not
rotate.
3) Now for the bottom part, using a breaker bar or
something similar (I
used a
1/2" socket wrench with a 4 ft long tube
attached to it for more
torque!!!)
remove the two nuts that attach the
struts to the brake assembly. Use a
lot of
WD-40 and let it soak for about
15 min.
4) To remove the bolts just tap them out with a hammer.
NOTE: Before you
tap
this bolts out, remove all the brackets that attach
the brake lines to
the strut
assembly.
5) Now you should be able to move back and forth the
strut assembly
until it
comes out of the brake assembly.
With the proper breaker bar (4 ft long in my
case! :) ) it took me
about 40
minutes to remove the first one, and
about 10 to 15 min for the second
one
because I already knew how to do
it.
Good luck!
-Jose
-------------------------
Two wrongs don't make a
right, but three lefts do!
Ken;
Is the part # SB1010 an all round fit on the first
generation (ie: x 5)?
Darc
Hi Darc,
> Is the part # SB1010 an all round fit on the first
generation (ie: x 5)?
It is for my '91 VR4. Someone's recent post
however mentioned that the
size for their rear calipers is the 7 mm x 1.0
(SB7100). I think their
year is '93 but I don't remember the
model
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
Friends,
The GP is doing well and we hope to get some more to
get another price drop :)
Please note this GP will end on April 4th, so check out
the GP page with the FAQ
asap and let me know personally if you want one (or
more) or if you have more
questions.
Of course, let all your friends at the Dragnet/Starnet
know about the GP.
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
I just noticed that GeoCities has a big problem and all
the pages are
unavailabel at the moment. So please be patient and try again
later :)
Thanks,
Roger
I just visiited and the page is back up as of 1.40 pm
West Coast time.
Darc
R.G. wrote:
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1999
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Team3S: touch-up paint
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So I go try to get touch-up paint from my local Dodge
dealer for my 93
Stealth ES, which is silver in color, and they don't have
any. I pay
for it and order it, and the guy says it will be a couple of
days. O go
back a week later, and it isn't there. I go back
today, which is two
weeks after I ordered it. It's still not
there. The guy checks
Chryslers computer to see if they've sent
it. It turns out that they NO
LONGER MAKE the stuff. I'm like,
Oh! Great! Now what am I going to do?
Hopefully, he says, we can have
it sent from another Dodge dealer that
has some left. Has anyone else
run into this problem??
Leland
1993 Stealth ES
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 16:29:56
1999
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To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FP gauge install options
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 18:26:15
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Hey everyone,
I see two options for installing my electronic
Autometer fuel pressure =
gauge. I'd like to solicit opinions from the
group on these =
alternatives. Maybe there are other alternatives as
well??
1. Tap the fuel rail and install transducer right
there
2. Tap banjo bolt on the outgoing fuel line out of the fuel
filter. =
Using a reducer (1/4 to 1/8), install transducer in the hole
on top of =
the banjo bolt. When installing I will make sure the
transducer do not =
block the passage into the fuel line.
In my opinion it is easier to install the transducer
into the banjo =
bolt.
This installations option was recommended by a
local speed shop. =
Apparently they have used this kind of setup for
NOS installations in =
the past.
I need help with opinions/experiences here - Is the
banjo bolt install =
going to give me accurate readings? Can I expect
the same fuel pressure =
at any point between the fuel filter and the FP
regulator? If not, am I =
better off installing closer to the FP
regulator, or closer to the fuel =
filter. Also if there is pressure
drop, it would be interesting to know =
roughly how much the drop could be
expected to be, maybe it is =
negligible?
Thanks in advance for sharing your comments with
this inexperienced =
mechanic.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
------=_NextPart_000_011F_01BE7ADA.CC3A8900
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Hey everyone,<BR><BR>I see two
options for installing my electronic =
Autometer fuel pressure gauge. I'd like to
solicit opinions from =
the group=20
on these alternatives.
Maybe there are other alternatives
as=20
well??<BR><BR>1. Tap the fuel rail and install
transducer right=20
there<BR>2. Tap banjo bolt on the
outgoing fuel line out of the =
fuel=20
filter. Using a reducer
(1/4 to 1/8), install transducer in the =
hole on=20
top of the banjo
bolt. When installing I will make sure the =
transducer
do=20
not block the passage into the fuel line.<BR><BR>In my
opinion it is =
easier to=20
install the transducer into the banjo
bolt.<BR>This installations option =
was=20
recommended by a local
speed shop. Apparently they have used this =
kind of=20
setup
for NOS installations in the past.<BR><BR>I need help
with=20
opinions/experiences here - Is the banjo bolt install going to give
me =
accurate=20
readings? Can I expect the same fuel pressure
at any point between =
the=20
fuel filter and the FP regulator?
If not, am I better off =
installing=20
closer to the FP regulator, or
closer to the fuel filter. Also if =
there is=20
pressure drop,
it would be interesting to know roughly how much the drop =
could=20
be
expected to be, maybe it is
negligible?<BR></DIV>
<DIV><BR>Thanks in advance for
sharing your comments with this
=
inexperienced=20
mechanic.<BR><BR>Oskar<BR>'95 R/T
TT<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_011F_01BE7ADA.CC3A8900--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 17:13:38
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: touch-up paint
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 19:10:00
-0600
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Leland,
post the part number if you have it and I
will check with our local dealers.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-----Parts of Original
Message-----
>Hopefully, he says, we can have it sent from
another Dodge dealer that
>has some left. Has anyone else run into
this problem??
>
>Leland
>1993 Stealth
ES
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 18:42:52
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny Question
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 20:42:04
-0600
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>Dennis Moore wrote:
>> stick on tranny was
rocking back/forth as press/release gas pedal. It
>> only
happened in 5th, was most noticeable above 60 mph.
>> "sign of the
end", or less ominous?
Hi Jack!
Haven't interrogated you in a
while. I hope the intervening time has been
to your liking - holidays
and all. I now
have my second new 6-speed transaxel, installed under
warranty, making a
total of three. The first was replaced
due to a
lube leak; the second was replaced with a
transfer case as well, due to gear
noise, and this last
was replaced due to gear noise. The gear noise
is,
I believe, inherent to the 6-speed Getrag - I've now
had three new
ones that have all had it. I guess I'm pretty
"nit-picky,"
because I've heard several fairly reliable sounding guys on the
lists say
they don't detect any
noise. This is long winded; let me get to the
point:
Per your and other knowledgeable folks advice, I
installed Redline
MT90, (on the back of the bottle it
says 75W90), and it acts differently than
all others
before it. It is very hard to shift when the
ambient
temperature "soak" has been only 45F or so, until
the
engine (and I guess tranny) has warmed quite
a bit. With you'r living
in WI, I would expect this
effect to be even more noticeable. True, or
not?
A last inquiry regarding my last (third) new
tranny
regards an affect I never noticed before: When in
third or
fourth gear (and maybe others), if I press
lightly on the shift lever -
either fore or aft- I feel
a significant vibration, if any throttle is
applied.
Release the throttle, and the vibration subsides.
I've only
noticed this recently, and wondered if it
is "normal"?
Thanks
again for your indulgence.
Best regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 19:56:12
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny Question
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 19:43:34
-0700
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>A last inquiry regarding my last (third) new
tranny
>regards an affect I never noticed before: When
in
>third or fourth gear (and maybe others), if I press
>lightly on
the shift lever - either fore or aft- I feel
>a significant vibration, if
any throttle is applied.
>Release the throttle, and the vibration
subsides.
>I've only noticed this recently, and wondered if it
>is
"normal"?
I posted a similar question to the group some
weeks
ago. I have a 93 with 37K miles and when I press on
the shift lever
I get the same significant vibration. I got
no response as to cause, but
subsequently while looking
at the drive shaft I noticed the rubber vibration
isolators
that go around the center support bearings are deformed
by the
weight of the drive shaft. I feel that under load this
deformation causes the
driveshaft to vibrate. No proof of
this, nor have I replaced the center
support bearings.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth
TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Mar 30 20:28:42
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: New Tranny
Question
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 1999 22:21:14 -0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
On the 5 speed vr-4 tranny there a plug I'm having
a problem with. On the
side of the tranny with the drain plug (the
side that faces the passenger
side wheel) there is a plug. It looks
like a mushroom with a flat top.
It's above the drain plug about 8-10
inches and forward about 3-4 inches.
From the side profile the
plug looks like a "T" with the plug part
being on top and a
shaft coming out if it. It plugs a hole about 2 1/2
inches in
diameter. It tried to push the shaft into the tranny but there
was no
slot in the hole for it to slide into. I know this is where it goes
but it seems to have a Allen head bolt where the shaft should go into the
tranny. Can anyone help me with this. The manuals don't show
this side of
the tranny and thus are no help.
Thanks,
Brian