--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 02:44:39
1999
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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 04:45:02
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From: Ken Taft <
kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Rear
Bumper Skirt
To: Stealth-3000 <
Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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I would like to put dual exhaust, either a bolt on or
have a custom made =
for my 1992 stealth R/T NT but my bumper skirt has only
the oem exhaust =
cutout in it. Is their a place where i can buy one to match
my color or =
what is a person to do run duals back as far as you can and
then put =
them together before the bumper. Please need
help!
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I would like to put
dual exhaust, either a bolt on =
or have a=20
custom made for my 1992
stealth R/T NT but my bumper skirt has only the =
oem=20
exhaust cutout in
it. Is their a place where i can buy one to match my =
color or=20
what is
a person to do run duals back as far as you can and then put
=
them=20
together before the bumper. Please need
help!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
--Boundary_(ID_tx1CeWkQOCLRKfPQheP85w)--
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 06:17:36 1999
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From:
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To:
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'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Torque Wrench
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 08:17:10 -0600
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With our discount from Tall. Mitsu (15%
+ 5% if we pay the $8 shipping...15%
and they pay shipping)
Tensioner =
$62.62
Water Pump = $78.54
Mark
'91RT/TT
-----Original
Message-----
From: Wayne [
mailto:wala@hypertech-inc.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 31, 1999 5:24 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Torque Wrench
$27????? I'm picking up the phone right
now!!!! I figured they were at
least $100......
At 03:03 PM 3/31/99
-0800, you wrote:
>Wayne:
>
>For the $27 or
>so, it was
cheap insurance.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 07:35:32 1999
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From: Gavin
Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Rear Bumper Skirt -Reply
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Goto
www.spoilers.com.
This is Erebuni,
(see my message from yesterday about them). You can
buy a rear skirt that
will give you dual exhaust holes and in my opinion, a
better looking rear.
Cost is ~300.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4 w/new Erebuni
front
>>> Ken Taft <
kentaft@cwix.com> 04/01/99 05:45am
>>>
I would like to put dual exhaust, either a bolt on or have a
custom made
for my 1992 stealth R/T NT but my bumper skirt has only the oem
exhaust
cutout in it. Is their a place where i can buy one to match my color
or
what is a person to do run duals back as far as you can and then
put
them together before the bumper. Please need help!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 08:22:38 1999
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From:
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To:
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'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
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Subject:
Team3S: New hood insulation-received and installed
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999
10:22:21 -0600
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FYI,
I received my new hood
insulation yesterday from Tall. Mitsu. It came in a
very large
box.
I received it undamaged and it is molded to fit my hood
exactly.
The cost was $35+$8 shipping
I bought the one for the '91
VR4 and it fits my '91 RT/TT perfectly
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 08:59:36 1999
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'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
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Subject:
Team3S: K&N Aircharger instead of K&N FIPK
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999
10:59:22 -0600
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A while ago, there was a discussion
about using an Aircharger from a '95-'98
Eclipse on our Stealths and
VR4s. Well...I bought the Aircharger for
80bucks and installed it. The
Aircharger is much larger than the FIPK and I
had to modify the
bracket(drilled one hole) to mount the filter firmly to
the fender well so it
didn't move. It took me about 1/2hr to install.
Things to
consider....
-This is much larger than the FIPK(It appears to be longer,
not
thicker and therefore there is not a hood clearence problem).
Because it is
larger, I would guess that I flows better(I have not measured
this).
-I was not able to install my Blitz DSBC solenoid in the place
that
is common(R.G. and John Adams location), because the filter extends
into
that area. I had to mount it under the Relay/Fuse box near the
filter.
There is a cover under the box that unsnaps. I drilled two
holes in this
cover and bolted the solenoid to it(works great! and is hidden
from view).
-This filter is not C.A.R.B approved. I don't think
that this
matters unless you live in Calif.(you may want to check
this)
-Cost $80 for the Aircharger, $145 for the FIPK
-The kit
does not come with cleaner or oil($8), but does come ready
to
use(pre-oiled).
I think that this is a great alternative to the more
expensive FIPK.
Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 09:27:27 1999
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From: Gavin
Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade question
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If I were to put 15g's in my car
now...without making the necessary fuel
management mods and boost mods, would
I necessarily be hurting
anything?
I assume that the 15g's will simply
hold stock 12.5psi boost to the redline
and I will not be in any danger of
running lean.
So...any benefits? any
dangers?
Thanks,
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 09:50:23 1999
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Message-ID: <
003801be7c68$45f6d580$b449d6ce@jefyoung.ix.netcom.com>
From:
"Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
"Stealth - Team 3S" <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Erebuni ground effects kit
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 10:51:08
-0700
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Has anybody installed the Erebuni ground
effects kit on a 1st gen (part #
366)? I was wondering how well it fit
and if any major/minor modifications
were necessary to either the body or the
kit were necessary.
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealthFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 10:29:44 1999
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From: Gavin
Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Erebuni ground effects kit -Reply
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It will fit very well if you have
someone who knows fiberglass. They are
quality kits though...i've recently
seen a bunch.
Gavin
>>> "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com> 04/01/99
12:51pm >>>
Has anybody installed the Erebuni ground effects kit on
a 1st gen (part #
366)? I was wondering how well it fit and if any
major/minor
modifications
were necessary to either the body or the kit
were necessary.
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealthFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 11:59:44 1999
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Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 14:59:25 -0500
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From: Dennis Moore <
stealth@kiva.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Erebuni ground effects kit -Reply
In-Reply-To: <
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Anybody know if aerodynamics testing has
been performed on these or any
other ground efects kits? They *look*
cool, but do they help/hurt fuel
economy/top speed/etc?
Dennis
Moore
stealth@kiva.netExperience is
something you don't get until just after you need it.
For
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owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 12:18:01 1999
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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 1999 15:17:31 -0500
From: Gavin
Wallis <
WallisG@mwaa.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Erebuni ground effects kit -Reply -Reply
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The front has been created with
aerodynamics in mind. How much over
stock, I dunno. But upon inspection and
review of the unit personally
with Erebuni, I confidently believe it's
aerodynamics would only be
relevant at 100mph+ speeds. Not a concern for most
people.
IMHO I would guess the front of Erebuni to be better. For 1 it
is
fiberglass, not poly-e. Thus it doesn't really flex making its' cut into
the
oncoming wind pressure a little more efficient. Additionally the shapes
of
Erebuni kit are much sharper. However the air ducts are much
larger,
which is wind hitting a flat surface.
Lets review: I know
nothing, this letter was just a lot of
speculative
rambling.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4 with some weird thing on
the front of the car
>>> Dennis Moore <
stealth@kiva.net> 04/01/99 02:59pm
>>>
Anybody know if aerodynamics testing has been performed on these
or
any
other ground efects kits? They *look* cool, but do they
help/hurt fuel
economy/top speed/etc?
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.netExperience is
something you don't get until just after you need it.
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owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 17:29:38 1999
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Date:
Thu, 01 Apr 1999 20:22:08 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: K&N Aircharger instead of K&N FIPK
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3FED573F5E70D111A11900805F15163F0187C7D4@mn51mail2.cfsmo.honeywell.com>
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Mark,
Do you or does anyone out
there know if this will fit the NA MAS??
I have been considering this, if it
will fit my '93 NA DOHC.
Regards,
Lynn
"Wendlandt, Mark
(MN51)" wrote:
>
> A while ago, there was a discussion about
using an Aircharger from a '95-'98
> Eclipse on our Stealths and
VR4s. Well...I bought the Aircharger for
> 80bucks and installed it.
The Aircharger is much larger than the FIPK and I
> had to modify the
bracket(drilled one hole) to mount the filter firmly to
> the fender well
so it didn't move. It took me about 1/2hr to install.
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
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Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade question
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Gavin,
15gs will flow more air
(cfm) than a stock turbo at the same pressure (psi). Tthis is
very
important, you can get more air at equal pressures, requiring more fuel.
It seems
to me that psi is more relevant when comparing 2 identicle
setups. Intake or exhaust
changes can change the psi if I'm not
mistaken. Better flowing exhaust could lower psi,
but raise cfm and
power. I think too many people are depending on psi to make
decisions
where psi isn't the important factor.
This is all
information that I've gathered by reading the list, I'm not sure about
the
accuracy and have been waiting for the more knowledgable guys to
elaborate.
Jason
Gavin Wallis wrote:
> If I were to put
15g's in my car now...without making the necessary fuel
> management mods
and boost mods, would I necessarily be hurting
> anything?
>
>
I assume that the 15g's will simply hold stock 12.5psi boost to the
redline
> and I will not be in any danger of running lean.
>
>
So...any benefits? any dangers?
>
> Thanks,
> Gavin
>
'94 Black VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 18:01:44 1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <
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To:
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
<
stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 22:28:56
-0600
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>the low down on how to fix the
negative camber created by lowering
>springs.
>On the front you must
elongate the shock tower mounting holes to give
>extra positive camber.
This means make the holes longer toward the
>engine bay, not toward the
wheel.
My thinking is different: Camber angle is the tilt of the
centerline of the
wheel with respect to vertical, and that outward tilt of
the top of the
wheel is defined as positive camber angle. Unless there's
something
askew in my understanding, the mounting holes (the holes in the
sheet
metal where the three strut mounting bolts stick through) would have
to
be elongated in a direction AWAY from the engine to decrease
negative
camber.
>The rear you must elongate the sub frame
where the lower control arm
>attaches near the differential. The upper arm
has the cam adjuster for
>the camber adjustment and the lower is fixed.
Again, don't widen, just
>elongate, this time toward the
wheel.
Here,again, if I understand what you are saying, extending the
lower
arm toward the wheel would result in increased negative camber
by
moving the lower part of the wheel outward.
One of us is mixed up;
some one tell us who.
Regards, ptg
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web page is
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owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 18:01:46 1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <
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To:
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
<
stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 1999 23:40:28
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>On the front you must elongate the
shock tower mounting holes to give
>extra positive camber. This means make
the holes longer toward the
>engine bay, not toward the wheel. The rear
you must elongate the sub frame
where the lower control arm
>attaches
near the differential.
I believe you may have the polarity of these mods
reversed. If I
understand, both mods would increase negative
camber. You
(or someone) correct me if I'm wrong.
Regards,
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 1 20:34:02 1999
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From: "Paul T.
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To:
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Subject:
Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 22:33:53
-0600
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This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
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All-
I would like to know what concequences result
from removal (or =
gutting)of=20
either the main cat, and/or the pre-cats
on a '95 VR-4. Viz: What does =
the=20
ECU do differently as a
result of the changed 02 sensor outputs?
Much thanks for any
explanations.
Regards,
ptg
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
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<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>All-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>I would like to know what =
concequences result=20
from
removal (or gutting)of </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>either the </FONT><FONT
=
color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>main cat, and/or the pre-cats on a '95
VR-4. Viz: =
What does=20
the
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>ECU
do </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>differently as a
result of the changed 02 sensor
=
outputs?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Much thanks for any
=
explanations.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards,
=
ptg</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_00C2_01BE7C8F.B8A8F280--
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade question
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Jason and Cristy Barnhart
wrote:
> 15gs will flow more air (cfm) than stock turbo
at same psi. you can get more air at
> equal pressures,
requiring more fuel. psi is more relevant comparing 2 identical
setups.
> Intake or exhaust
> changes can change the psi.
Better flowing exhaust could lower psi,
> but raise cfm and power. I
think too many people are depending on psi to make decisions
> where psi
isn't the important factor.
> This is all information that
I've gathered by reading the list, I'm not sure about the
> accuracy and
have been waiting for the more knowledgable guys to
elaborate.
>
Jason and Gavin:
1) 15G with 12psi to redline
PROBably won't hurt anything dragracing, with short duration
full
throttle.
15G are capable of much more to
redline, and stock injectors (360cc) are not big
enough to give enough fuel
to support this boost, so will lean out and damage things IF you
go to too
high a boost at too high an rpm (airflow value). You can use 20psi at
3000rpm and
be fine because airflow there is (ROUGHly) the same as 10psi at
6000rpm, so ROUGHly same
fuel requirement. However, _20psi_ at 6000rpm
means filling those 3 liters with air twice
as many times per minute so twice
as many cfm so twice as much fuel needed, and so your
injectors get to be too
small. Also, stock fuelpump gets inadequate (though I've never
heard of
someone blowing up primarily due to fuelpump; most are smart enough to upgrade
it
with the big turbo/injectors move).
2) The SHORT answer is
that 15G do NOT flow any more _cfm_ at the same psi as stock turbos
but they
do flow slightly more _AIR_. Flow = Pressure x Resistance. Increase
pressure 2x =
2x increase flow. Resistance in engine is represented by
ductwork leading from turbo OUTLET
(does NOT include turbo) to the inside of
the cylinder. Changing the TURBO (pressure
source) does NOT change
Pressure value (remember we are saying PSI is CONSTANT)...does not
change
Resistance...so does not change cfm Flow.
HOW EVER, where people
sometimes make mistake, the cfm Flowed will be COOLER=DENSER AIR
with a
bigger/more efficient turbo Compressor section (15G vs stock 9B), so though the
cfm
is SAME, that SAME cubic foot of air has more AIR MOLECULES in it (more
O2) so DOES give
more power/need a little more fuel to remain at proper
Air:Fuel ratio (note "proper" in this
real case is NOT
stoichiometric, it is far richer). The difference in heat is NOT
totally
gigantic but is real. Any gas compressed heats up a
predetermined amount at a minimum; the
efficiency of the compressor imparts
an ADDITIONAL heat load into the compressed charge.
The more efficient the
compressor, the less EXTRA heat added, the denser the charge.
NOTE:
this effect is decreased by INTERCOOLING, because though the smaller turbos heat
the
air up more, this greater delta T across the intercooler means the
intercoolers SHED more
heat also. Doesn't quite make up for the lower
temps by bigger turbos to begin with, but
effect is mitigated
somewhat.
3) Better flowing exhaust generally will INCREASE boost
pressure. Greater delta P across
turbine wheel means turbo spins faster
so compresses MORE air so INCREASES boost so makes
MORE hp so makes MORE
airflow/heat out exhaust so makes FASTER turbo spin...etc...
See
for example: the plugged up catalytic converter car I tested
had LOW boost. Cleaning out
cat (better flowing exhaust) markedly
increased boost and performance.
Jack Tertadian
> Gavin Wallis
wrote:
> > If I were to put 15g's in my car now...without making the
necessary fuel
> > management mods and boost mods, would I necessarily
be hurting anything?
> > I assume 15g simply hold stock 12.5psi boost
to redline
> > and I will not be in danger of lean. Gavin 94 Black
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade
question
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 20:53:13 -0700
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,
> 15gs will flow more air
(cfm) than a stock turbo at the same pressure
(psi). Tthis
is
>very important, you can get more air at equal pressures, requiring
more
fuel. It seems
>to me that psi is more relevant when
comparing 2 identicle setups. Intake
or exhaust
>changes can
change the psi if I'm not mistaken. Better flowing exhaust
could lower
psi,
>but raise cfm and power.
Your first sentence contains a
significent issue --- 15gs WILL flow more
air ---
the real point is that
the 15Gs CAN flow more air at a specified pressure.
Whether or not they will
flow is dependant on the throttel body, head flow
characteristics,exhaust
flow RPM, etc. The stock turbo WILL provide its 15
PSI
untill it reaches
its limit of about 300 CFM. The 15G WILL provide its 15
PSI
untill it
reaches its limit of 400 CFM. The CFM required WILL be determined
by the
engine.
Jim Berry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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1999 23:04:06 -0600
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xwing wrote:
> Flow =
Pressure x Resistance
Oops. Actual: Flow = Pressure /
Resistance. Pressure = Flow x
Resistance.
JT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Date: Fri, 02
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering
springs
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> My thinking is different: Camber angle is the
tilt of the centerline of the wheel with respect to vertical, and that outward
tilt of the top of the wheel is defined as positive camber angle.
Yes
Paul, but lowering springs cause negative camber, or squat, not
positive
camber. Did you actually read my response last time with the
ASCII
illustration?
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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From:
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Camber fix for
lowering springs
Date: Thu, 1 Apr 1999 23:52:11 -0600
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>> My thinking is different:
Camber angle is the tilt of the centerline of
the wheel with respect to
vertical, and that outward tilt of the top of the
wheel is defined as
positive camber angle.
>
>Yes Paul, but lowering springs cause
negative camber, or squat, not
>positive camber.
Yes, lowering
springs frequently cause excessive negative camber.
To reduce excessive
negative camber, steps must be taken to move
the top of the wheels AWAY from
the engine in front. In the rear,
the bottom struts must be SHORTENED
to reduce the negative camber
The way to do this is to do the OPPOSITE of
what you suggest,
and move the top of the wheel OUTWARD, in front, and
the bottom
of the wheel INWARD at the rear.
Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Date:
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From: Matthews
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Erebuni ground effects
kit
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Gavin Wallis wrote:
>
> The front has been
created with aerodynamics in mind. How much over
> stock, I dunno. But
upon inspection and review of the unit personally
> with Erebuni, I
confidently believe it's aerodynamics would only be
> relevant at 100mph+
speeds. Not a concern for most people.
Ha! :-)
> IMHO I
would guess the front of Erebuni to be better. For 1 it is
> fiberglass,
not poly-e. Thus it doesn't really flex making its' cut into the
>
oncoming wind pressure a little more efficient. Additionally the shapes
of
> Erebuni kit are much sharper. However the air ducts are much
larger,
> which is wind hitting a flat surface.
I would think that
the further the front deviates from a smooth, rounded
shape, the higher the
Cd. If this new front incorporates bigger
ducting, then aerodynamics
will certainly suffer. However, if the
improved ducting gets fresh,
cool air to the front brakes and flows more
air through the intercoolers,
then the benefits may outweigh the
drawbacks.
Is there a picture of
this thing out there anywhere? I'm curious to see
how it
looks.
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided
brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech
Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE
HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering
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Yes again Paul, but you are dwelling on the original post
I made where
I was correcting for POSITIVE camber, not NEGATIVE. I corrected
that
at your urging. I don't recommend "shortening" the control
arm, but
rather adding adjustment to the control arm pivot point.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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From:
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Camber fix for
lowering springs
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 00:22:36 -0600
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>Yes Paul, but lowering springs cause
negative camber, or squat, not
>positive camber. Did you actually read my
response last time with the
>ASCII illustration?
Yes I read your
last response. Lowering springs DO cause negative
camber. And the
mods you describe will add MORE negative camber.
Obviously, if the negative
camber resulting from using lowering
springs is excessive,(often the case),
you must adjust the geometry to
REDUCE the negative camber, which requires
doing the OPPOSITE
of what you suggest. This is my last comment on this
subject! I suggest
you talk to someone who understands suspension geometry
and
knows what camber, toe, steering axis inclination, and caster are,
and
how they are related.
Regards, ptg
.
Regards, ptg
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Apr 2 02:04:56 1999
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Date:
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From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: g p on the clutch
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<36FF24D1.6D6919AF@rancho.net> <36FFB918.ED1A5FE5@swissonline.ch>
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Ron,
> Roger, are you sure, the RPS link only
shows to 94 or 95. If they will
> fit a 96 VR4, I'll sign up.
Yes,
these are only two differernt clutches for all years and models.
Let me
know what RPS clutch you'd like to have and I sign you
up.
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Apr 2 02:05:00 1999
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Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase ! I need more ...
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Friends,
The closing date for the Group Purchase on
teh RPS clutch comes closer and
closer and we are only about 8 who want to
get one :/ Remember, the closing date
is Sunday April 4th 1999 and after this
the price will be back to normal price.
Time is limited because the
clutches are already on backorder and we hope that
they will be shipped after
a month when the order is placed. Any jump onto the
GP after the closing date
is not possible. So leave the easter eggs and
chocolate bunnies where tehy
are and get an RPS CLutch for your car, hehe.
Check the GP page
under
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html
I
hope this helps a little in money
saving
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade
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Just a technical point, not to get into the debate over
which turbos,
but the real bottom line is the total number of oxygen
molocules that
are in the combustion chamber, therefore flow and psi are both
envolved
since: flow is a measure of volume per time and psi is directly
related
to the number of oxygen molucules in a given amount of volume;
therefore
as flow rates and psi increase so do the total number of
oxygen
molocules in the cylinder at the time the both intake and exhaust
valves
close and the compression stroke starts. It is true that a free
flowing
exhaust (one with little back pressure) can make it more difficult
to
get the pressure part of the equation up, it will certainly raise
the
flow rate side. So there is a tradeoff going on there. (As an
aside-
the timing of feul injector spray in relation to when the valves
close
can cause some of the feul load to be lost out of the exhaust before
the
exhaust valve closes and this can be made up for by over feuling
causing
some loss of feul efficency.) A true mechanical engineer (I am
a
computer engineer, although I had to take all the core physics
courses
like any other engineer) would be able to calculate the exact point
that
yields the max number of O2 molocules in the chamber while at the
same
time balancing the loss of feul with the increase in efficency of
the
feul that actually burns.
My
$0.02
Regards,
Lynn
Jason and Cristy Barnhart wrote:
>
> Gavin,
> 15gs will flow more air (cfm) than a stock
turbo at the same pressure (psi). Tthis is
> very important, you can
get more air at equal pressures, requiring more fuel. It seems
> to
me that psi is more relevant when comparing 2 identicle setups. Intake or
exhaust
> changes can change the psi if I'm not mistaken. Better
flowing exhaust could lower psi,
> but raise cfm and power. I think
too many people are depending on psi to make decisions
> where psi isn't
the important factor.
> This is all information that I've
gathered by reading the list, I'm not sure about the
> accuracy and have
been waiting for the more knowledgable guys to elaborate.
>
>
Jason
>
> Gavin Wallis wrote:
>
> > If I were to
put 15g's in my car now...without making the necessary fuel
> >
management mods and boost mods, would I necessarily be hurting
> >
anything?
> >
> > I assume that the 15g's will simply hold
stock 12.5psi boost to the redline
> > and I will not be in any danger
of running lean.
> >
> > So...any benefits? any
dangers?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Gavin
> > '94
Black VR-4
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Apr 2 07:28:55 1999
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Boy do I feel silly now -- What Jack
said!
Regards,
Lynn
xwing wrote:
>
> Jason and
Cristy Barnhart wrote:
>
> > 15gs will flow more air
(cfm) than stock turbo at same psi. you can get more air
at
> > equal pressures, requiring more fuel. psi is more relevant
comparing 2 identical setups.
> > Intake or exhaust
> >
changes can change the psi. Better flowing exhaust could lower
psi,
> > but raise cfm and power. I think too many people are
depending on psi to make decisions
> > where psi isn't the important
factor.
> > This is all information that I've gathered by
reading the list, I'm not sure about the
> > accuracy and have been
waiting for the more knowledgable guys to elaborate.
> >
>
> Jason and Gavin:
> 1) 15G with 12psi to redline PROBably
won't hurt anything dragracing, with short duration
> full
throttle.
> 15G are capable of much
more to redline, and stock injectors (360cc) are not big
> enough to give
enough fuel to support this boost, so will lean out and damage things IF
you
> go to too high a boost at too high an rpm (airflow value). You
can use 20psi at 3000rpm and
> be fine because airflow there is (ROUGHly)
the same as 10psi at 6000rpm, so ROUGHly same
> fuel requirement.
However, _20psi_ at 6000rpm means filling those 3 liters with air twice
>
as many times per minute so twice as many cfm so twice as much fuel needed, and
so your
> injectors get to be too small. Also, stock fuelpump gets
inadequate (though I've never
> heard of someone blowing up primarily due
to fuelpump; most are smart enough to upgrade it
> with the big
turbo/injectors move).
>
> 2) The SHORT answer is that 15G do
NOT flow any more _cfm_ at the same psi as stock turbos
> but they do flow
slightly more _AIR_. Flow = Pressure x Resistance. Increase pressure
2x =
> 2x increase flow. Resistance in engine is represented by
ductwork leading from turbo OUTLET
> (does NOT include turbo) to the
inside of the cylinder. Changing the TURBO (pressure
> source) does
NOT change Pressure value (remember we are saying PSI is CONSTANT)...does
not
> change Resistance...so does not change cfm Flow.
>
>
HOW EVER, where people sometimes make mistake, the cfm Flowed will be
COOLER=DENSER AIR
> with a bigger/more efficient turbo Compressor section
(15G vs stock 9B), so though the cfm
> is SAME, that SAME cubic foot of
air has more AIR MOLECULES in it (more O2) so DOES give
> more power/need
a little more fuel to remain at proper Air:Fuel ratio (note "proper"
in this
> real case is NOT stoichiometric, it is far richer). The
difference in heat is NOT totally
> gigantic but is real. Any
gas compressed heats up a predetermined amount at a minimum; the
>
efficiency of the compressor imparts an ADDITIONAL heat load into the compressed
charge.
> The more efficient the compressor, the less EXTRA heat added,
the denser the charge.
>
> NOTE: this effect is decreased by
INTERCOOLING, because though the smaller turbos heat the
> air up more,
this greater delta T across the intercooler means the intercoolers SHED
more
> heat also. Doesn't quite make up for the lower temps by
bigger turbos to begin with, but
> effect is mitigated somewhat.
>
> 3) Better flowing exhaust generally will INCREASE boost
pressure. Greater delta P across
> turbine wheel means turbo spins
faster so compresses MORE air so INCREASES boost so makes
> MORE hp so
makes MORE airflow/heat out exhaust so makes FASTER turbo
spin...etc... See
> for example: the plugged
up catalytic converter car I tested had LOW boost. Cleaning out
>
cat (better flowing exhaust) markedly increased boost and performance.
>
> Jack Tertadian
>
> > Gavin Wallis wrote:
> >
> If I were to put 15g's in my car now...without making the necessary
fuel
> > > management mods and boost mods, would I necessarily be
hurting anything?
> > > I assume 15g simply hold stock 12.5psi boost
to redline
> > > and I will not be in danger of lean. Gavin 94 Black
VR-4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2 07:39:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999 10:37:34 -0500
From: Gavin Wallis
<WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase ! I need more ... -Reply
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Did you hear if RPS has a lightweight flywheel yet?
I've heard _more_
horror stories about resurfacing and old flywheel for
carbons/kevlars.
Maybe we could just use Bozz Chromolys? Or does anyone
know how
much stock is?
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>>
"R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch> 04/02/99 05:01am
>>>
Friends,
The closing date for the Group Purchase on teh
RPS clutch comes closer
and
closer and we are only about 8 who want to get
one :/ Remember, the
closing date
is Sunday April 4th 1999 and after this
the price will be back to normal
price.
Time is limited because the
clutches are already on backorder and we
hope that
they will be shipped
after a month when the order is placed. Any jump
onto the
GP after the
closing date is not possible. So leave the easter eggs and
chocolate bunnies
where tehy are and get an RPS CLutch for your car,
hehe.
Check the GP
page
under
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/group_purchase.html
I
hope this helps a little in money
saving
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase
! I need more ... -Reply
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Group;
Gavin Wallis wrote:
> Did you hear
if RPS has a lightweight flywheel yet? I've heard _more_
> horror
stories about resurfacing and old flywheel for
carbons/kevlars.
>
Can anyone else confirm or deny this alleged
problem? Has anyone here had this problem
with carbon? Jack? Barry? Todd?
Brad? et all....
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2 08:46:45 1999
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To:
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Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 10:39:21
-0600
Subject: Team3S: Woes update -- the never ending saga and
questions...
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Hello to all:
Many have asked me to update my
situation now that I've had the infamous
clutch vacuum booster installed...so
here's a brief recap of events and
my take on the friggin'
thing.
*June of last year, clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate and
fly
wheel replaced
*Not long after, seized throw out bearing
replaced
*Master cylinder diagnosed as leaking, replaced
*Leaking of
master cylinder caused vacuum booster failed, it now replaced
IMHO, it is
only marginally better at best, still loose pedal pressure
coming out of
speed or under hard acceleration.
Here's some fun new things that
have happened since the booster change:
1.) Somehow, the snake eyes mod
is acting bass-akwards. Now, in order to
get the lights to pop up, I
must have the lights turned off. But, after
I do pop them up, then turn
on the lights, I can hit the pop up button,
and when I turn the lights off,
the pop ups will go down as if no mod.
In the words of the great sayer of
sooth, "what the f....?"
2.) The climate control system seems
to have a mind of it's own now.
Literally. I typically never have it
set on auto, always outside air,
and no a/c, I want the hp. Normally, I
set the mode depending if I want
heat or cool air, i.e., to the feet or
torso. Get this, I get in and
start the car, I watch the display, the
air for a brief period of time
comes out on the glass, then it moves -- by
itself -- to the torso and
feet, the past two days, a red at the feet, blue
at the torso. I've
owned the car going on two years now, I've never see
it do this before.
I repeat the infamous words....
3.) Lastly, I had
the dealer install a noise suppressor for me a few
weeks ago, and yes they
did it twice. I have one of those flat plate
radios with all the
adjustments (I believe you audio aficionados call
that a double-din?), love
all the gadgets, but was getting a bad what I
would call alternator whine
when using the tape deck. I noticed after
the first and second time,
that the spacial adjustments now worked
completely different whence playing a
tape, versus the radio or cd. I
found this peculiar. Then one
day, it just all shut down, and they redid
it. To my sup rise, the
entire system now "sounds better." Ibid. BUT
THERES
MORE! The active aero button now doesn't work as it should.
Normally,
all winter and in lousy weather, turn it off. Now, to my
surprise, at
any speed when I simply turn it on (not toggle all the way
to the left, the
damn thing activates.......????
So that's my story, and I'm sticking to
it. If anyone can help, or has
better theory, do spill.
Thanks,
best regards, happy Easter weekend (let's be careful out
there),
etc.,
Scott
'92
VR4
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Apr 2 11:20:20 1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: RPS Clutch /
flywheel
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 14:15:29 -0500
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-----Original Message-----
From:
Meyer <meyer2@erols.com>
To: robby@swissonline.ch
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Date: Tuesday, March 30, 1999 5:12
PM
Subject: Re: RPS Clutch /
flywheel
>Roger,
>
>No, RPS does not make a flywheel
for our cars. However, I have something
>far superior to any other
flywheel on the market. The Mueller Billet
>Aluminum Flywheel!
This thing is very light, weighing in at 13lbs (custom
>11&12 lb units
avail.) Compared to the stock 25lb+ flywheel. It is a
one
>piece design that is made by mueller fabricators in CA. I can
offer these
>for the TT and the NT cars at $560TT and $550NT. Prices
may vary depending
>on the quantity. Let me
know.
>
>Check them out at:
www.muellerfabricators.com
>
>
>Matt
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>To: Meyer
<meyer2@erols.com>
>Date: Tuesday, March 30, 1999 4:35
PM
>Subject: Re: RPS Clutch / flywheel
>
>
>>Another
question came up :
>>
>>Does RPS offer a lighter flywheel as
well? I've been interested in
>>this. Besides it would avoid having
someone mess up resurfacing the old
>>one, (which i've heard have to be
perfect for a kevlar/carbon).
Any
>>comments/ideas?
>>
>>Currently 7 have agreed to
the Turbo Carbon and 1 to the Carbon Claw
!
>>
>>Regards,
>>Roger
>>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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From: Brian Danley
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW: Oil Filter
Study
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 14:12:38 -0500
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Got this from our DSM list in Texas
.. Kinda interesting
-----Original Message-----
From: Randy
Nuckels [mailto:randynet@ticnet.com]
Sent: Friday, April 02, 1999 11:55
AM
To: ntexdsm@listbot.com
Subject: Oil Filter Study
North
Texas DSM List -
ntex.dsm.org
http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
This
is the most exhaustive unbiased oil filter study
I have ever seen. I
found this link on the digest a
few days ago.
It is a big web page
with lots of pictures and tables,
but he extensively reviews 23 differant oil
filters.
It is worth a read in my opinion.
Randy
Nuckels
______________________________________________________________________
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Start Your Own FREE
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2
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Hey Scott;
Major woes. I would look for another shop to do my work
in the future. That, however,
does not solve the problems they have inflicted
on you. I understand there are some
places that will deliberately do this
sort of thing to have repeat buisness. I hope this
is not the case, and that
you get the gremlins out. Still, consider going elsewhere. (
Is the system
bled properly? Have you tried a speed bleeder and doing it
yourself?)
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2
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Date:
Fri, 2 Apr 1999 14:45:53 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Woes update -- the never
ending saga and questions...
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Darc:
>Major woes. I would look for another shop to do my
work in the future.
Unfortunately, there's only one other one here in town,
and they're the
one's with the bad reputation.
>That, however,
>does not solve the problems
they have inflicted on you. I understand
>there are some
>places
that will deliberately do this sort of thing to have repeat
>buisness. I
hope this
>is not the case, and that you get the gremlins out.
Me too. I really have trusted the SM over there
and he's been kind,
helpful and generous, so I'm going to look up under the
dash tomorrow to
see if when the put everything back something might be
crossing or
touching. Dunno. Well give it our best try.
Brett's coming down
tomorrow and after we upgrade an axe of mine down in
Kenosha, we're
changing his plugs and wires and putting on an K&N FIPK
on his ES.
Should be fun.
Still, consider
>going elsewhere.
I guess I'm going to half too. It's just a matter
of where...
(
>Is the system bled properly?
No clue, but I would think so. I told Dick, he's
that older SM I was
telling you about, that after they put in the new booster
to please check
and/or adjust the clutch afterwards, as it just has been a
handful to
drive. He said no problem, and that they did adjust it
a little, and
that they mechanic was very pleased with the
results.
Over lunch, I know notice my a/c won't kick on
either. :-(
Have you tried a speed bleeder and doing
>it
yourself?)
No on either, don't know what I'm doing when it comes
to that. Need to
learn more so I can do this stuff --
knowwhatImean?
Thanks and regards,
Scott
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2
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Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999 15:59:53 -0500
From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Hydracharging
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Anyone heard much about this? Supposed to be coming out
in a month or
less. I read an article on them a couple of weeks ago in the
latest Sports
Compact mag. It's sort of a fluid pushed turbo charger. No lag,
meaning
low RPM boost. Extremely compact. Very effecient. Cheap. It's like
the
best of super & turbo charging.
All that was said was needed for most applications was
to move your
battery to the back of the car and the hydracharger could fit
there. Plus
their would be room for a fake battery cover for stealth
installs.
Could shave some serious time off the ole 1/4 for us
turbos....
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2
13:07:33 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Woes update -- the never
ending saga and questions...
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Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
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Sorry everyone, that one was meant for Darc
alone. Sorry to waste the
"bandwidth."
On Fri, 2 Apr 1999 14:45:53 -0600 Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
writes:
>Darc:
>
>>Major
woes. I would look for another shop to do my work in the
>future.
>
>Unfortunately, there's only one other one here in town, and
they're
>the one's with the bad reputation.
>
>>That,
however,
>>does not solve the problems they have inflicted on you. I
understand
>
>>there are some
>>places that will
deliberately do this sort of thing to have repeat
>>buisness. I hope
this
>>is not the case, and that you get the gremlins out.
>
>Me too. I really have trusted the SM over there and he's
been kind,
>helpful and generous, so I'm going to look up under the dash
tomorrow
>to see if when the put everything back something might be
crossing or
>touching. Dunno. Well give it our best
try. Brett's coming down
>tomorrow and after we upgrade an axe of
mine down in Kenosha, we're
>changing his plugs and wires and putting on
an K&N FIPK on his ES.
>Should be
fun.
>
>Still, consider
>>going elsewhere.
>
>I guess I'm going to half too. It's just a matter of
where...
>(
>>Is the system bled properly?
>
>No
clue, but I would think so. I told Dick, he's that older SM I was
>telling you about, that after they put in the new booster to please
>check and/or adjust the clutch afterwards, as it just has been a
>handful to drive. He said no problem, and that they did adjust
it a
>little, and that they mechanic was very pleased with the
results.
>
>Over lunch, I know notice my a/c won't kick on
either. :-(
>
>Have you tried a speed bleeder and doing
>>it yourself?)
>
>No on either, don't know what I'm doing
when it comes to that. Need
>to learn more so I can do this stuff
-- knowwhatImean?
>
>Thanks and
regards,
>
>Scott
>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get
>completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] For subscribe/unsubscribe
>info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2
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Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999 17:22:00
-0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: rear
bumper skirt
To: Stealth-3000 <Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Oscar^ You sent an e-mail with a picture of a red
Stealth with the =
exhaust cutout and i cannot seem to reach the person who
did this can =
you help me Please. Ken
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 2
19:47:51 1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fw: RPS Clutch / flywheel
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 1999 19:35:05
-0700
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>>No, RPS does not make a flywheel for our
cars. However, I have something
>>far superior to any other
flywheel on the market. The Mueller Billet
>>Aluminum
Flywheel! This thing is very light, weighing in at 13lbs
(custom
>>11&12 lb units avail.) Compared to the stock 25lb+
flywheel. It is a one
>>piece design that is made by mueller
fabricators in CA. I can offer these
>>for the TT and the NT cars
at $560TT and $550NT. Prices may vary
depending
>>on the
quantity. Let me know.
his web page says if it's can be made of metal we
can do it ---- anybody
talk to him about syncro rings.
Jim berry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
03:56:31 1999
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 03:59:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Woes update -- the never ending saga and questions...
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Scott,
Remove one of the panels below the air
dam and
manually lower the front air dam and then retract it
with button
in car. I am not sure if your rear AA
spoiler is working since you
didn't specify whether
both or one was working only.
--- Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com> wrote:
> The
active aero button now doesn't
> work as it should.
> Normally, all
winter and in lousy weather, turn it
> off. Now, to my
>
surprise, at any speed when I simply turn it on (not
> toggle all the
way
> to the left, the damn thing activates.......????
>
> So
that's my story, and I'm sticking to it. If
> anyone can help, or
has
> better theory, do spill.
>
> Thanks, best regards,
happy Easter weekend (let's be
> careful out there),
> etc.,
>
> Scott
> '92 VR4
>
>
___________________________________________________________________
>
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free
> Internet
e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
> http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
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Date:
Sat, 3 Apr 1999 08:05:02 EST
Subject: Team3S: Double Check Please
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If someone out there with a 93 VR4 could check some
wiring for me I would be
grateful. On the throttle position sensor wiring
harness. Starting from the
top (closest to hood) I have
Green - with
yellow strip
Red
Yellow - with red strip
Black
In
the manual it shows ;
Red
Green - with yellow strip
Black
Yellow -
with red strip
HHmmmmm. The reason I am asking is I snap 2 wires
off and had to pull the
connector apart to repair. I am not 100 % sure I put
it back together right.
I think perhaps the manual may be in error (oh my
god)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
06:53:11 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Woes update -- the never ending saga and questions...
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Scott J Cowan wrote:
>
>
2.) The climate control system seems to have a mind of
it's own now.
> Literally. I typically never have it set on auto,
always outside air,
> and no a/c, I want the hp. Normally, I set the
mode depending if I want
> heat or cool air, i.e., to the feet or
torso. Get this, I get in and
> start the car, I watch the display,
the air for a brief period of time
> comes out on the glass, then it moves
-- by itself -- to the torso and
> feet, the past two days, a red at the
feet, blue at the torso. I've
> owned the car going on two years
now, I've never see it do this before.
I think this is normal. At least it's what mine
does and I love it!
When the engine is cold, it blows the cold air at the
windshield instead
of at me (red defrost). Then, when the engine warms
up, it sends warm
air to my feet (red feet). Finally, when the interior
is at the
specified temperature, it will continue blowing warm air at my feet
as
well as some cool, fresh air out the dash (red feet, blue torso). I
can
also get it to blow warm air on my feet and out the dash (red feet,
red
torse) when it's really cold out. Note that the fan is
also
automatically adjusted the entire time as well.
I, too, avoid using the A/C but like to leave it in the
automatic mode.
To do this I simply press Auto followed by Econ twice.
My understanding
is that when you press Auto, it is in fully automatic mode
and the A/C
is used at all times. Pressing Econ will leave it in auto
mode (though
the auto indicator will go out) and the A/C will only be used
when
needed. Pressing Econ the second time still leaves it in auto mode
but
the A/C is disabled. Pressing Mode or the fan speed buttons takes
it
OUT of auto mode. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but this is
how
mine seems to work. I think it's great! Now if only I could
figure out
how to install one in my other vehicles...
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Double Check Please
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 07:34:23
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>If someone out there with a 93 VR4 could check some
wiring for me I would
be
>grateful. On the throttle position sensor
wiring harness. Starting from the
>top (closest to hood) I
have
>Green - with yellow strip
>Red
>Yellow - with red
strip
>Black
>In the manual it shows ;
>Red
>Green -
with yellow strip
>Black
>Yellow - with red strip
Iv'e got a 93 Dodge TT ---- car and manual both
agree ----
green/yellow
brown/red
yellow/red
black
in the manual page 8-86 the numbering on the
throttle
position sensor is shown as 1-2-4-3 not 1-2-3-4.
Which
almost agrees with your second list.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
[ suspension mods next ]
> > 2.) The climate
control system seems to have a mind of it's own now.
<snip>
> I think this is normal. At least it's what
mine does and I love it!
> When the engine is cold, it blows the cold air
at the windshield instead
> of at me (red defrost). Then, when the
engine warms up, it sends warm
> air to my feet (red feet).
Yep, my 3000GT does this too. To be a little bit more
specific, when the engine
heats up the direction changes to the last choosen
setting.
> Pressing Mode or the fan speed buttons takes it
OUT of auto mode.
> Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but this is
how
> mine seems to work. I think it's great!
Yep, this is how it works and I like it too
:)
I just wish the fan would blow somewhat slower as the
lowest step is already too
much (for me).
//Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
09:02:43 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> Green - with yellow strip
> Red
>
Yellow - with red strip
> Black
> In the manual it shows ;
> Red
> Green - with yellow strip
>
Black
> Yellow - with red strip
The Backup CD manual shows :
1: G-Y (Green-Yellow)
2: BR-R (BR?-Red)
3: Y-R
(Yellow-Red)
4: B (Black)
Just make sure you read the manual right and watch the
numbers.
Hope this helps,
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
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Subject:
Team3S: Trany leak
X-Priority: 2 (High)
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I noticed a spot on the garage floor yesterday. Rolled
the car up on
the ramps and looked under the car. The trans had a light film
of oil
on it near where the right front axle comes out but on the bottom
of
the trans. Thick oil like gear oil, not much quantity, but it had
mixed
with under coat over spray. I couldn't see where the oil was
coming from but
if had blown back onto the transfer case towards the
tail shaft. Most of the
oil was on the bottom of the transmission case
towards the passenger side of
the bell housing.
Where do I check for possible sources of the leak? I
cleaned the areas
where it had collected hoping to find the source easier if
the area
was clean to start with. I had problem with my Eclipse leaking from
a
breather near the clutch actuator but I can't see up that far at
this
point.
Also, this is a 96 VR4 with only 4600 miles, and the
manual
illustration isn't clear on indicating which is the drain and
filler
plugs for the trany. For the drain, it seems to be located on
the
passenger side of the case with an access hole in a plastic
splash
panel. The filler seems to be on the front of the trany about 2 -
3"
up from the pan. But it has an odd shape like it's a cap for
an
internal part. Both caps have a yellow inspection paint stripe on
them.
The transfer case caps are both painted red.
What am I into here guys? New transmission time? I've
got till the end
of the year on the 3 year / 30,000 mile
warranty.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
11:17:55 1999
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From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EASESIM Datalogger
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 13:27:10
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Has anyone had a chance to use this datalogger?
I'm interested in buying
one, but I'd like to know a little more about it
too. How many samples per
second can it take? Can you sample 3 or
4 items and still have the data be
useful? Meaning, what does the
sample rate per item fall to?
Any comparisons with any other dataloggers for OBDII
cars are welcome (like
OBDTool.) I don't really care about dataloggers
for the earlier cars (like
TMO's http://www.tmo.com) because I can't use
them:)
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 3
18:54:37 1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: EASESIM Datalogger
Date: Sat, 3 Apr 1999 20:54:24
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>Any comparisons with any other dataloggers for
OBDII cars are welcome (like
>OBDTool.) I don't really care about
dataloggers for the earlier cars (like
>TMO's http://www.tmo.com) because I can't use
them:)
How do I know if I have OBD II or not? I have
a '95 VR-4.
Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
07:35:29 1999
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From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EASESIM Datalogger
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ODBII appeared in the 1996 model year in the
3000GT
ERic
>
>How do I know if I have OBD II or
not? I have a '95 VR-4.
>Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS EVC Boost controller help please
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 11:06:18
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My mom just got her 95 Spyder and it has an HKS air
filter and borla
exhaust. But it also has and HKS EVC and since I
haven't gotten to this
step in moding my car, I really don't know what it
should be set at. Any
information would be greatly appreciated. I
donno where the owner is but my
mom bought the car in California and had it
shipped here to PA. Thanks for
any and all
assistance.
Joshua
3si#0137
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Trany leak
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 07:38:32 -0700
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>I noticed a spot on the garage floor yesterday.
Rolled the car up on
>the ramps and looked under the car. The trans had a
light film of oil
>on it near where the right front axle comes out but on
the bottom of
>the trans.
>What am I into here guys? New
transmission time? I've got till the end
>of the year on the 3 year /
30,000 mile warranty.
Go and have the dealer look at it --- at minimum
you've identified a
potential problem while under warranty.
Also get an extended warranty!! You should be able to
get at least
a four year 48K mile warranty. May be a bit pricey --1200 to
2000
but IMHO probably worth it.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
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Date:
Sun, 4 Apr 1999 12:27:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: HKS EVC Boost controller
help please
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Josh, keep it set no higher then one (1) Bar. 1.00 on
the gauge.
Arty 91 VR-4
Is there any way to adjust the clutch engaged switch
for starting. My
wife has a heck of a time pushing the clutch all the
way to the floor.
Thanks,
Hello all,
I have a small question, I was driving my
NA yesterday about 90 mph
in 5th gear and it just died. I left it in gear and
pulled over to the
side of the road. I then put it in nuetral and proceeded
to start it.
It cranked over fine, but wouldn't start. It sounded like it
wasn't
getting any gas. I thought the fuel pump went out because I had
been
having problems with the fuel system. I tried to start it a couple
more
times, about the 4th time I tried it, it just locked up. I
was
frustrated last night so I towed it home but havn't looked at it yet.
I
was wondering if anyone has experienced anything like this and if
they
could give me any advice before I start the long trial and
error
process.
Thanks,
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
11:34:03 1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS EVC Boost controller help please
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999
14:34:23 -0400
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Joshua,
Call HKS at 562-494-8068 they will send/fax
you instructions for the EVC IV.
Basically it has a high and low boost
setting and it learns through 3rd gear
wide open runs. We have one on our car
and sell them all. The HKS is the
best boost control on the market. Keep your
settings at 1.00 or lower to
prevent engine damage.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, April 04, 1999 11:09 AM
Subject: Team3S: HKS EVC Boost controller
help please
>My mom just got her 95 Spyder and it has an HKS
air filter and borla
>exhaust. But it also has and HKS EVC and since
I haven't gotten to this
>step in moding my car, I really don't know what
it should be set at. Any
>information would be greatly
appreciated. I donno where the owner is but
my
>mom bought the
car in California and had it shipped here to PA. Thanks for
>any and
all assistance.
>Joshua
>3si#0137
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Damn, those Chocolate-bunnies are my death ....
... and also this GP if you don't sign up immediatly
!!
Anyway, happy easter to all of you :)
Today it's the last day on the GP for the RPS clutches
and I'd like to get some
more onto the list. Unfortunately some people jumped
off due to any reason while
others did not respond to me after asking
questions :((
So jump to my page at
and send me your OK to get one of these great clutches
too (no, I'm not getting
a free one and I pay the same price as all of us). I
think the price is good but
it could be better. But not with the current
amount of people who gave me their
OK (a man, a word). Therefore, get your
a** out of the bed at this rainy day and
sign up (I just saw
"Independence Day", hehe). Tomorrow is too late !
Hope to hear from you soon (very
soon)
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
15:31:52 1999
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From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
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To: Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Compresion Check
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Well I did a compression check on my
car yesterday. The reason for
doing it was when I had my car strapped
to the dyno in Zurich, I was
getting a lot of oil blowing out of the oil
dipstick after teh operator
let off the gas. Which translates to pressure
building up in the crank
case. This was the same symptoms that Roger
had before he found that
some of his piston rings were cracked. For the
test I did not follow
the procedure in the service manual, in that I did not
put the plenum or
the throttle body on for the test. I had both removed
and disconnected
the crank position sensor. I also removed all plugs
and covered the
holes with clean cloths to check for oil in the
cylinders. I tested
each cylinder twice. The car has 25k
miles. I am getting a LITTLE oil
in the rear turbo intake piping, but
none in the front side. I think
this is pretty normal
though.
I was really surprised that all cylinders were
between 136 and 139
psi. (normal is 156 psi, minimum is 115 psi with a
deviation of 14
psi). There was no oil coming out of any
cylinders. So did I do the
test right? I would not think that
having the plenum completely removed
would affect the results, but what do
you think?
While I was putting everything back together I
was thinking about
reasons why I could be getting the build up (besides a
stuck PCV valve)
When we did a compression check of Jim's car in Zurich, I
think we were
getting readings around 125 psi (he has a lot more miles on his
car than
mine). So I was thinking that maybe the higher cylinder
pressures in my
car were causing some type of blowback. Then I realized
that if Jim's
had lower pressure, then he should be having the problem not
me.
So then I started thinking about the turbos. If
we increase the
boost from a stock of 6-9 psi to 14 psi, then is it possible
that we are
putting a strain on the piston rings? After all at least
three people
on this list have had broken piston rings. And I know many
people have
complained about their oil filler caps leaking. Maybe they
are not
leaking, maybe it is just a build up in crank case
pressure.
So is it safe to assume that my car is in good
shape? I did not do
a leak down test, but I am not sure this would tell
me anything in this
case anyway.
Thanks,
Mike Chapleski
0018
'95 Stealth RT
TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
15:32:06 1999
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Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 00:26:25 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
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Subject:
Team3S: Powder Coating
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This weekend while I had the plenum
off I finally got to try out the
new powder coating system I bought from
Eastwood Company a couple of
months ago. I originally bought the kit
for the restoration of an older
car I have, but I thought I would try it out
on some things in the
Stealth that are uncoated. Let me say that I
think this system is
great. Buy doing both the plenum and the rear
rocker cover I think I
paid for the system in what it would of cost me to
have this done by a
professional service. The only problem with it is
that it requires an
oven to bake the part in at 400 deg F. And it
cannot be an oven you
will be using for cooking food. Also, you really
need to
sandblast/glassbead the part beforehand. However, as long as
the part
is free of corrosion, it is fine. Also, the part must be made
of a
conductive metal.
Later,
Mike Chapleski
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT (clear
coated plenum and red rocker cover mods)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Compression Check
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Hi Mike;
You wrote..
snip
> And I know many people have
> complained
about their oil filler caps leaking. Maybe they are not
> leaking,
maybe it is just a build up in crank case
pressure.
> So is it safe to assume that my car is
in good shape? I did not do
> a leak down test, but I am not sure
this would tell me anything in this
> case anyway.
>
"Before" I put in my BC, the oil filter cap
would get a bit of leakage/oil vapour around
it, so I assume this is normal
and nothing to be worried about with average to agressive
acceleration. I'd
say you worry as much as me (too much) , and that what is occurring
here is
really much ado about nothing, except normal high crankcase pressure with
these
vehicles. As Chris W. recently implied (private humorous
communication), if you shift at
or before 3500rpm, you can avoid these
problems. :-)
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
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Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 21:24:45 -0400 (EDT)
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: roockie questions
Message-ID: <17400-370810DD-16485@mailtod-232.iap.bryant.webtv.net>
In-Reply-To:
Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>'s message of
Mon, 05
Apr 1999 00:26:21 +0200
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I have watched and read for 2 weeks now .I have learned
that I have a
lot to learn.
I do have a few questions if someone would
like to help I have a 92
stealth es non turbo I installed ngk wires
& plugs I also dropped A k&n
filter my question is what kind of
exhust should i use money is a big
issue I have about $ 300 or
less also does removing your cat mess up
back preasure or mess
with the computer
one last thing if any
body knows cheap things or secrets to help
a roockie out please do
Thanks
CHRIS
Yes, First off, learn to spell
"ROOKIE".hehehe.
If money is a big issue, then get it done custom
for a non-turbo. Get
them to run a 3" pipe from the converter (leave
this on) and then Y- it
out near the gas tank to 2 1/2 inch pipes, and ansa
or other baffled
tips on the end. Cost me 250 bucks with removal of old and
installation
of new, and it took less than a day. It will sound good on your
Na if
you have the DOHC motor.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
20:05:59 1999
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Date:
Sun, 04 Apr 1999 22:06:21 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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Re: Team3S: very strange!!!!!!!
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dustin poos wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> I
have a small question, I was driving my NA yesterday about 90 mph
> in 5th
gear and it just died. I left it in gear and pulled over to the
> side of
the road. I then put it in nuetral and proceeded to start it.
> It cranked
over fine, but wouldn't start. It sounded like it wasn't
> getting any
gas. I thought the fuel pump went out because I had been
> having problems
with the fuel system. I tried to start it a couple more
> times, about the
4th time I tried it, it just locked up.
<<SNIP>>
Dustin
Check the fuel filter....under the
battery on the firewall. I had the same thing
happen to me in my RX-7
one time.....fuel filter was totally blocked. That's probably
the
cheapest place to start.
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth
R/T Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 4
23:03:18 1999
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From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EASESIM Datalogger
Date: Sun, 4 Apr 1999 13:48:01
-0500
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Actually my '95 Spyder has OBDII also. Either
this means '95 California
cars or all '95.5 cars have it.
So? Anyone on the EASESIM topic?
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
00:02:25 1999
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Date:
Sun, 04 Apr 1999 22:26:33 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Three" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Relative difficulty of ABS retrofit
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When I purchased my car, I believe that the dealer told
my insurance
company that my '93 ES had ABS. I never changed my braking
technique,
but in hindsight I don't recall ever sensing that the ABS was
doing
anything. Recently, I noticed that there was no fuse in the ABS
fuse
block and have concluded that there is no ABS. It is lucky that
there
have been no incidents while my wife was driving my car since
I
instructed her in the use of ABS: push as hard as you can and let
the
ABS do its thing.
How difficult would it be to retrofit ABS on my
car. I have 65K on my
car and figure that I probably need front pads;
haven't checked, but
haven't heard chirpers either. Question here is
what would you guys
suggest as the best pads for a daily driver that is never
raced (I've
only had it over 140 twice), never had a warped rotor that I
noticed and
intend on keeping stock rotors??
Thanks and regards,
Lynn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
04:20:02 1999
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Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 07:31:24 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Re: Wiring for Throttle
body
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Thanks for the help. I need to pay attention to the
numbering on the diagrams
more. Thanks again.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 05:30:42 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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dustin poos wrote:
>
> I
have a small question, I was driving my NA yesterday about 90 mph
> in 5th
gear and it just died. I left it in gear and pulled over to the
> side of
the road. I then put it in nuetral and proceeded to start it.
> It cranked
over fine, but wouldn't start. It sounded like it wasn't
> getting any
gas. I thought the fuel pump went out because I had been
> having problems
with the fuel system. I tried to start it a couple more
> times, about the
4th time I tried it, it just locked up. I was
Same thing happened on my TT a short time after I
installed my FIPK.
Downshifted to third and punched it to pass one day and
it died.
Coasted to a stop and could crank the motor but it wouldn't
fire. Like
it wasn't getting any spark or gas...
Seems that because I didn't disconnect the battery
during installation,
the ECU never reset itself and the extra airflow caused
the MAF to blow
an ECU fuse and shut 'er down. VERY insidious problem
to diagnose.
First, check the fuses in the main fuse box in the engine
compartment.
If you find one that is blown, FIRST remove the battery cables,
then
disconnect the MAF harness, then replace the fuse, then replace
the
battery cables, then reconnect the MAF harness. If you ignore
the
battery and MAF and just replace the fuse, the new fuse(s) will
keep
blowing.
Anyway, I hope that's all it is in your case and that
this saves you the
trouble and expense of having the car towed to the dealer
for them to
figure out (cost me $200 and a great deal of stress!). Good
luck!!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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dustin poos wrote:
>
> I
have a small question, I was driving my NA yesterday about 90 mph
> in 5th
gear and it just died. I left it in gear and pulled over to the
> side of
the road. I then put it in nuetral and proceeded to start it.
> It cranked
over fine, but wouldn't start. It sounded like it wasn't
> getting any
gas. I thought the fuel pump went out because I had been
> having problems
with the fuel system. I tried to start it a couple more
> times, about the
4th time I tried it, it just locked up. I was
Same thing happened on my TT a short time after I
installed my FIPK.
Downshifted to third and punched it to pass one day and
it died.
Coasted to a stop and could crank the motor but it wouldn't
fire. Like
it wasn't getting any spark or gas...
Seems that because I didn't disconnect the battery
during installation,
the ECU never reset itself and the extra airflow caused
the MAF to blow
an ECU fuse and shut 'er down. VERY insidious problem
to diagnose.
First, check the fuses in the main fuse box in the engine
compartment.
If you find one that is blown, FIRST remove the battery cables,
then
disconnect the MAF harness, then replace the fuse, then replace
the
battery cables, then reconnect the MAF harness. If you ignore
the
battery and MAF and just replace the fuse, the new fuse(s) will
keep
blowing.
Anyway, I hope that's all it is in your case and that
this saves you the
trouble and expense of having the car towed to the dealer
for them to
figure out (cost me $200 and a great deal of stress!). Good
luck!!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Mike,
Long time no see! Your spring must
be as hectic as mine. I leave this
morning for another week TDY, after
which I'm looking at 1 + 2 + 2 + 2 +
4 week trips with little time
between! Ug...
REALLY glad to hear that your compression check
didn't indicate a
disaster. I will be interested to see what responses
you get on the
list, since there has to be an explanation for that
temperature probe
being pushed out of your dipstick hole. You're right
that my readings
were in the 125 range, which, if our tests were the same,
means that I
should have higher crankcase pressures than you. BTW, I've
been running
1.00 bar of boost for as many miles as you have on your
engine! Is it
possible your oil level was too high and the crank was
beating up the
oil, somehow raising the pressure? Are you still seeing
pressure? I
just can't imagine what's happening here.
Can't
wait to see your new powdercoated parts! Sounds great.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 08:49:51 -0500
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: DSM Purchase Suggestions
In-Reply-To:
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Kinda' off topic, but I hope you'll indulge
me...
My brother is considering purchasing a 95 Eclipse
(Turbo, FWD) as a daily
driver. If any of you are willing to answer
some questions about these
cars, please e-mail me privately.
Thanks.
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held
it's ground.
-----Original Message-----
From: stealthride@webtv.net [mailto:stealthride@webtv.net]
Sent:
Sunday, April 04, 1999 6:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: roockie questions
<snip>
I do have a few questions if
someone would like to help I have a 92
stealth es non turbo I installed
ngk wires & plugs I also dropped A k&n
filter my question is what
kind of exhust should i use money is a big
issue I have about $ 300 or
less also does removing your cat mess up
back preasure or mess
with the computer
<snip>
Thanks
CHRIS
=============================
Chris...
Removing your cat will decrease back pressure, as will
adding a larger
diameter exhaust. In the case of the NA engines, this will
result in lower
torque, lower hp at the lower rpm range, with some hp gain at
higher rpms.
If you're looking for better sound, change the mufflers. If
you're looking
for more power on a NA engine, add nitrous.
Looking forward...Chris
P.S...turn on your spell check feature.
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Mike,
I'm happy that the compression check showed that good
figures :)) Compared to
Jim's figures they are about the same as we only did
a quick measuring on the
fronts without the rear bank nor the intake manifold
removed and also the
injection fuse was still there. Therefore you both do
not have to worry and the
readings are good.
> since there has to be an explanation for that
temperature probe
> being pushed out of your dipstick hole.
The same happened to me before the rebuild and not
anymore afterwards. Also I
never had any leaking oil cap until the problem
arose. I also think Jim doesn't
have this problem anymore since he got my
original oil cap.
> Is it possible your oil level was too high and the
crank was beating up the
> oil, somehow raising the pressure?
Here, also the different oils (heaviness) may play a
rule but I'm also not sure
about this. BTW, since my rebuild the oil pressure
readings are in the lower
regions than before and also I do have much less
oil in the intake parts than
before. I think we'll not measure the oil
temperature on the next dyno session
to avoid the oil on the
windscreeen.
Later,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Lynn;
Are you certain you need to retrofit? It may be that
there was just no fuse. Stranger
things have happened. And, sounds like the
OEM pads are great for your application. Once
a person starts getting into
high speed braking situations like many, make that some, of
the members, then
aftermarket pads, rotors, etc, become necessary considerations. It
sounds to
me like you have gotten good value from the stock pads for your
driving
habits. Stick with it until one changes. FWIW Tal Mitsu has good
prices for stock
replacement.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
08:26:03 1999
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From: Gavin
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Subject:
Team3S: Relative difficulty of ABS retrofit -Reply
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Shouldn't be too difficult...ABS was a $300 or so
option on the ES's. So
most likely most of the setup is there and ready to
go, (as is evidence of
the ABS fuse).
If your lucky...call a dealer and it will only be about
$500 installed.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net> 04/04/99 09:26pm
>>>
When I purchased my car, I believe that the dealer told my
insurance
company that my '93 ES had ABS. I never changed my
braking
technique,
but in hindsight I don't recall ever sensing that the
ABS was doing
anything. Recently, I noticed that there was no fuse in the ABS
fuse
block and have concluded that there is no ABS. It is lucky that
there
have been no incidents while my wife was driving my car since
I
instructed her in the use of ABS: push as hard as you can and let
the
ABS do its thing.
How difficult would it be to retrofit ABS on my
car. I have 65K on my
car and figure that I probably need front pads;
haven't checked, but
haven't heard chirpers either. Question here is
what would you guys
suggest as the best pads for a daily driver that is never
raced (I've
only had it over 140 twice), never had a warped rotor that I
noticed and
intend on keeping stock rotors??
Thanks and regards,
Lynn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
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Team3S: Weight Stripping
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OKay, I have decided to keep my VR-4, but as it is my
4th car I won't
need to worry about anything but one thing.. PURE SPEED
BABY. Right now
I am going to start by putting the big bad 3000 on a
diet... Ideas???
Anything I can take out everybody tell me. I am
planning on buying some
of those cheaper than dirt seats from summit, they
are under $40 and
weigh around 9 lbs. If it makes the car not street
legal, don't tell me
about it. I still want to drive it around from
time to time. What are
the heaviest parts of the exhaust? The
Interior? On the interior of
GT-1 Cars I noticed that they look kind of
nice, are they powder
coated? Or anything of the like. Is there a
carbon fiber, or aluminum
dash for the 3000? Any ideas are greatly
appreciated. What is the
lowest anyone has got the curb weight down
to. I think 3400 lbs is not
unrealistic for this big luxo car.
What made the 2g's lighter than the
91-93's? Do the popup motors add
weight? If so, maybe a little
plexiglass over the top, and remount the
bulbs fixed and then remove the
popup machinery, etc. This would also
allow space where the light/motor
would be for cold air? Or maybe combine
this mod with a cold air intake
of some kind? Ideas?? My goal
with this car is to go 11 seconds, on
stock turbos. I just want to try
and see if you can.
Hey Ron;
Did you have your car serviced in the recent past? They
could have topped up your fluids
and overfilled. Just a thought.
Best
Darc
Whilst crawling around under the 94 VR4 yesterday, I
spotted a coolant leak.
It was collecting on the oil filter, then dripping off.
Not a lot, but I never saw any leaks before.
I poked and prodded and peered, but couldn't spot
anything with the car
only a jackstand off the floor. I also could not spot
anything from the top.
Now I see that I have a low coolant indicator.
Any ideas where this leak might be coming from?
Gotta fix it: we're going racin' in two weeks.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Rich wrote
> snip
>
> I poked and prodded and
peered, but couldn't spot anything with the car
> only a jackstand off the
floor. I also could not spot anything from the top.
>
> Now I see
that I have a low coolant indicator.
>
> Any ideas where this leak
might be coming from?
> Gotta fix it: we're going racin' in two
weeks.
>
Start her up and pressurize the system while on the
jackstands. If it's not a pinhole
sized leak, it may well give itself away
when you're under there. If you've already
tried this, sorry for stating the
obvious.
Best
Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Brilliant
[mailto:andrewb@infowest.com]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 8:31 AM
To: Tech List
Subject: Team3S: Weight
Stripping
OKay, I have decided to keep my VR-4, but as it is my
4th car I won't
need to worry about anything but one thing.. PURE SPEED
BABY. Right now
I am going to start by putting the big bad 3000 on a
diet... Ideas???
<snip>
Ideas?? My goal with this car is to go 11
seconds, on
stock turbos. I just want to try and see if you
can.
============================
Andrew...
First off, ditch the seats (front & back) and your
spare tire. That will be
at least 100lbs. Ditch the stereo and speakers
(20lbs?). Get rid of the
wasted part of the exhaust that goes to the right
side of the bumper, it
doesn't do anything and weighs 40 lbs. Better yet, if
this isn't for the
street, ditch the exhaust completely. There's a carbon
fiber hood out there
somewhere but, as I recall, they're expensive. Get a dry
cell battery, they
weigh only 14lbs (compared to 40?). All the power goodies
and associated
wiring are targets. The chrome wheels (with tires) are 58lbs
each. Alloy
rims would be a big gain. There was an article in Street Power a
couple
years ago about someone who remounted the engine, replaced the tranny
and
made a VR4 RWD. It save a huge amount of weight (and surely cost a
huge
amount of $$$).
The list goes on and on. Keep us posted on your
progress.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Whilst crawling around under the 94 VR4 yesterday, I
spotted a coolant leak.
<snip>
Any ideas where this leak might be coming from?
Rich/old poop/94
VR4
======================
Rich...
Mine has done this twice in hot weather (rare in
Oregon), after being run
hard.
In my case it was just the radiator overflow (which is
why the light has
come on now).
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
One of my friends had completely gutted his first
generation 3000, he
had removed all seating, front active aero and replaced
it with the
non-aero skirt, pulled the entire cruise control unit out, a/c,
and then
some. I have some pictures of his interior. As I recall I think
he
installed a Cusco 10 or 12 pt roll cage also. I know he was posting
mid
or low 12 second passes with stock turbos and a malfunctioning MAF
meter
since his car was coughing black smoke everywhere and spitting
flames.
Pretty sure he can go faster actually fixed the meter.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
09:38:59 1999
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From: "Bob
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 09:38:13
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Because of all the hills here in San Francisco, it's a
local joke about how
quickly folks go through brakes and clutches... It
looks like I'm about to
become another statistic.
I smoked the clutch a few times when I visited a friend
who lives up in the
hills around Sausalito-- I had to BACK slowly up a
30-degree hill around
curves and stumps for about 200 feet. I could
smell the disc burning so I
knew the harm I'd done...
That was a year ago, but I haven't had problems until
now. Whenever I try
to accelerate hard on the highway (for passing,
etc), the engine revs high
as if I'm slipping the clutch, and then pops back
in. It seems to happen
most when I'm at fairly low revs for that gear
(2nd gear and up) and I
accelerate rather than downshifting to be in the
'proper' power band.
Is my disc just polished or does this sound more like a
throwout bearing or
adjustment problem? I've already ordered one of the
new RPS clutches as
part of Roger's group purchase, but I'm wondering if I
should worry that
something's going to die completely before the clutch comes
in... Any
similar experiences out there...???
Advice...???
TIA,
Forrest
'94 Stealth NT
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Date: Mon, 05 Apr 1999 12:39:53 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weight Stripping -Reply
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Incidentally, i don't think 11's with stock turbos is
possible, just plain not
enough power by my math. Unless of course your
planning in a
carbon-fiber frame? :).
Additional ideas: (btw- i don't have a good feel if
this is race only?)
- a/c unit
- fiberglass, fiberglass, fiberglass.
Replace as much as you can with
it....hood, front, wing, trunk, etcc. Carbon
fiber is an option, but so much
more expensive. After fiberglass the back,
get rid of the active aero
wing motor. Get rid of the front control arm and
motor as well.
- exhaust: get a something like the borla, stainless steel
weights much
less. Get a single tube. Then take out the active exhaust motor
as well.
- carbon fiber parking brake lever :)
- carbon fiber drive shaft
@ www.nexusmotorsports.com
-
interior trim (plenty of that heavy crap)
Unsprung weight ~ 4x more important
- Cooltech
rotors/calipers. Much much less weight then iron, 5x thermal
conductivity, 2x
the strength.
- Volk wheels. 1/2 stock weight.
- Aluminum suspension
components. Dunno much about these...but i
think some of the parts are out
there.
Ok i went till i got bored ;)
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4 w/fiberglass Erebuni
front
First off, ditch the seats (front & back) and your
spare tire. That will be
at least 100lbs. Ditch the stereo and speakers
(20lbs?). Get rid of the
wasted part of the exhaust that goes to the right
side of the bumper, it
doesn't do anything and weighs 40 lbs. Better yet, if
this isn't for the
street, ditch the exhaust completely. There's a carbon
fiber hood out
there
somewhere but, as I recall, they're expensive. Get a
dry cell battery,
they
weigh only 14lbs (compared to 40?). All the power
goodies and
associated
wiring are targets. The chrome wheels (with tires)
are 58lbs each. Alloy
rims would be a big gain. There was an article in
Street Power a couple
years ago about someone who remounted the engine,
replaced the
tranny and
made a VR4 RWD. It save a huge amount of weight
(and surely cost a
huge
amount of $$$).
The list goes on and on. Keep us posted on your
progress.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV,
Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034",
GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and
test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
<snip>
That was a year ago, but I haven't had problems until
now. Whenever I try
to accelerate hard on the highway (for passing,
etc), the engine revs high
as if I'm slipping the clutch, and then pops back
in. It seems to happen
most when I'm at fairly low revs for that gear
(2nd gear and up) and I
accelerate rather than downshifting to be in the
'proper' power band.
Is my disc just polished or does this sound more like a
throwout bearing or
adjustment problem? I've already ordered one of the
new RPS clutches as
part of Roger's group purchase, but I'm wondering if I
should worry that
something's going to die completely before the clutch comes
in... Any
similar experiences out there...???
Advice...???
TIA, Forrest '94 Stealth
NT
=======================
Bob...
Does not sound like a throwout bearing or poor
adjustment. Sounds like a
perfectly polished "friction"
disc...which is not the way they were
designed. :-)
You may have torched the pressure plate and flywheel as
well, but the
pressure plate and throwout bearing will be replaced with the
new clutch and
you should have the flywheel resurfaced at the same
time.
I've done the same to a number of clutches in my years
at the dragstrips. In
those cases, you have to replace if you're going to
race. Under "normal"
street use, if it's not slipping under all
conditions, you have some life
left. Suggestions...keep the revs up, avoid
hard acceleration under lower
rpms, stay off hills (move to
Kansas?).
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight Stripping -Reply
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Gavin Wallis wrote:
> Incidentally, i don't think 11's with stock turbos
is possible, just plain not
> enough power by my math. Unless of course
your planning in a
> carbon-fiber frame? :).
-snip-
Cummon man, where's the optimism here??
Look even if You only pulled off low 12's think
of the implications. If
we just found a new way to shave some weight and drop .2 off
et's it would be
worth the effort. Don't you think? They did it on Gran Turismo, so
it
must be possible, right?
My real question is reguarding the headlight
idea.
build an assembly looking like this:
The latch can come undone, and the whole assembly
picots up 45 degrees, making a perfect
cold air duct, for racing. You
just unlatch it, and voila extra HP. Any ideas, will
this work?
When you leave the track, 2 seconds and your street legal. Loose the
weight
of the motors, etc. Any ideas for inexpensive projectors or
reflective materials to
use? Where can you get custom plexiglass
cut? Car audio shop?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
10:48:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 05 Apr 1999 13:46:20 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel/Tire combo for sale
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I'm selling my stock 17" chrome wheels + brand new
Firestone SZ50's
25//40/17 tires.
The tires have around 500 very easy highway miles on
them. The
chrome wheels have minimal curb rash, not noticeable from 5ft or so
+
can't tell at all at night.
Asking $1750 for the whole deal. I'm going to buy some
ultra lights ...
(sniff sniff....by by chrome 4ever)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Rich, if any coolant got onto the belts it should be
changed. The coolant
will degrade the belts life dramatically.
Arty
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight Stripping -Reply -Reply
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I didn't say it wasn't worth it or I thought it was
pointless. Quite the
opposite. Seeing "how low you can go" on these
cars is of paramount
importance...I applaud any efforts made.
I just don't think it is feasible to hit 11's on stock
turbos. Even totally
gutted. If your gonna keep the basic
functions
present....awd...aws...etc...what makes a vr-4. Now if you remount
the
engine and make it RWD...I dunno, (still bet no).
Course, I would LOVE/PRAY for someone to prove me
wrong.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com> 04/05/99 01:34pm
>>>
Cummon man, where's the optimism here?? Look even if You
only pulled
off low 12's think
of the implications. If we just found
a new way to shave some weight
and drop .2 off
et's it would be worth the
effort. Don't you think? They did it on Gran
Turismo, so
it
must be possible, right?
My real question is reguarding the headlight
idea.
build an assembly looking like this:
The latch can come undone, and the whole assembly
picots up 45
degrees, making a perfect
cold air duct, for racing.
You just unlatch it, and voila extra HP. Any
ideas, will
this
work? When you leave the track, 2 seconds and your street legal.
Loose
the weight
of the motors, etc. Any ideas for inexpensive projectors or
reflective
materials to
use? Where can you get custom plexiglass
cut? Car audio shop?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weight Stripping
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 14:42:35
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> I just don't think it is feasible to hit 11's on
stock turbos.
> Even totally
> gutted. If your gonna keep the basic
functions
> present....awd...aws...etc...what makes a vr-4. Now if you
remount the
> engine and make it RWD...I dunno, (still bet
no).
> Course, I would LOVE/PRAY for someone to prove me
wrong.
I'd tend to agree that 11's on the stock turbos would
be difficult. If you
could drop about 600 pounds off the VR4 and get it
down to Eclipse GSX
weight, us Eclipse guys still need to make at least 375
HP to get down the
track in under 12 seconds. Can you even get 350 HP
out of the stock turbos,
or do they run out of steam too early to hit that
high of a peak? I don't
think the power is so much the issue, but
finding 600 pounds of extra weight
is going to be the tough part...
That's a lot of weight to be ripping out!
I think you could find 200 pounds
easy enough, maybe 300.
A RWD VR4 I would love to see! :-)
-Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
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From: "Bob
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 12:48:48
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-----Original Message-----From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
----------snip---------
|I've
done the same to a number of clutches in my years at the
dragstrips.
In
|those cases, you have to replace if you're going to race.
Under "normal"
|street use, if it's not slipping under all
conditions, you have some life
|left. Suggestions...keep the revs up, avoid
hard acceleration under lower
|rpms, stay off hills (move to
Kansas?).
Sounds about right... I'm just so spoiled at
being able to bang it and
scoot in any gear that it's easy to forget...
BTW, I've already committed
to the RPS (with Roger's group purchase)--
but has anybody out there had
negative experiences with the 'new' RPS Carbon
clutches for the S/3k NT?
And why KANSAS, (you fiend)??? Hasn't anyone ever
told them they're
actually allowed to LEAVE? :-) I'm strictly a
city boy...
TIA,
Forrest
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 13:27:12
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob
Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
> Subject:
Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
>
>
> Because of
all the hills here in San Francisco, it's a local
> joke about
how
> quickly folks go through brakes and clutches... It looks
> like I'm about to
> become another statistic.
>
> I
smoked the clutch a few times when I visited a friend who
> lives up in
the
> hills around Sausalito-- I had to BACK slowly up a 30-degree
> hill around
> curves and stumps for about 200 feet. I could
smell the disc
> burning so I
> knew the harm I'd
done...
I know this may be redundant redundant, but e-brake, my
friend, e-brake.
While I was going to school in Pittsburgh (not quite as bad
as SF, but...)
I'm sure that saved me several clutches. Use e-brake to
hold you in place
as you get off the brake pedal. Do the clutch/gas
combo normally, drop the
e-brake as you hit the friction point. People
behind you'll think you have
an automatic (although my old car-AT- would roll
back on some hills in SF).
If you use the e-brake correctly, you won't roll
back *at all* and there's
no danger of smoking the clutch, spinning the front
wheels, or hitting the
person behind you. Sorry if you already knew
this, but a surprising number
of people I talk to who have MTs have never
heard of this technique...
--Erik
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters
mod
------
----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life
here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for
this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here
one will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone
without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality
here and now."
--T. S.
Eliot
-------------------------------------------------------------
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
13:43:31 1999
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Date:
Mon, 5 Apr 1999 16:45:23 -0700
Subject: Team3S: Attn: GA 3Sers: DX auto
repair shop
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DX Auto repair in Winder, GA will give ya discounts on
repairs. The
number is 770 867-5468, ask for Dang Xiong. Dang
used to work at
Peachtree Mitsubishi w/Ju Yang (head mechanic, who did
Parham's timing
belt for only $200). Dang now has his own shop.
He quoted me $250 for
labor on changing timing belt & all belts.
While Ju has gone to work for
Toyota. Anyway if ya want a price quote
give him a
call.
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Finally took the car out with the new set up. They sent
me a top plate for
the rear springs. Looks like the top plates for the
fronts. Cut the stock
bottom spring perches off the front GAB's. While I was
cutting them off,
though quite a bit about doing this to BRAND new struts.
Worked out Ok. For
now I have height on all four corners set to 1"
above BOTTOM. Have the camber
set 1/2 way, which is around 8 degrees or so.
Need to modify the rear camber
adjusters, think I will pull them out,
elongate the holes, and have the old
section filled with weld. Didn't push
corners too much first time out, but
turn in seemed to have improved quite a
bit. Clearance on the front tires is
tight between the tire and the adjuster
collar. It's about 1/4 in. I am
running 255/40/17's. Talks about LOW. With
active aero turned on in front I
have 3 1/4 " clearance. Spring rate
seems pretty good, 650 front and 500
rear. Not as stiff as I expected, but
stiffer than the H&R's. Taking it down
to have balance adjusted on
scales next. Also just put in Porche 933 calipers
in front with pagid orange
pads. Can't wait to get on the track(s) again. 2
weeks to go :)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 15:48:27 -0500
(EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: RWD Stealth
In-Reply-To: <008501be7f9c$745bc6b0$0a1ea8c0@mattjnt.fallon.com>
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At least one exists. About a year ago on starnet,
someone posted a URL
about a guy who had bought a Stealth RT/TT and converted
it to RWD. The
car had custom rear fenders to cover the whopping huge
tires he put on it
(I'm thinking 350's or bigger?). He had rotated the engine
90 degrees,
and had to add another set of the strut tower covers to give him
extra
clearance for front end of the engine. The owner lived in South
America,
as I recall.
Anybody here recall that discussion, or the URL where
the pix were posted?
I can't find it. :(
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held
it's ground.
On Mon, 5 Apr 1999, Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> A RWD VR4 I would love to see! :-)
>
> -Matt
>
'93 Eclipse GSX
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
13:52:33 1999
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Team3S: RWD Stealth -Reply
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Yeah...that thing was a nightmare. Could not track
straight for it's life and
a whole slew of other problem.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net> 04/05/99 04:48pm
>>>
At least one exists. About a year ago on starnet, someone
posted a URL
about a guy who had bought a Stealth RT/TT and converted it to
RWD.
The
car had custom rear fenders to cover the whopping huge tires he
put on
it
(I'm thinking 350's or bigger?). He had rotated the engine 90
degrees,
and had to add another set of the strut tower covers to give him
extra
clearance for front end of the engine. The owner lived in South
America,
as I recall.
Anybody here recall that discussion, or the URL where
the pix were
posted?
I can't find it. :(
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held
it's ground.
On Mon, 5 Apr 1999, Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> A RWD VR4 I would love to see! :-)
>
> -Matt
>
'93 Eclipse GSX
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Ask away Dennis, I had a 93 and there are several
friends that have a
variety of other models. As with the 3000GT, I don't have
much use for
the Turbo FWD, not enough traction for the power. If he plans to
put
mods on it, it will only get worse.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
14:25:57 1999
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I used to have a 300+ hp FWD ecliipse.. the steering
wheel would go insane under
acceleration jumping 6-8 " back and
forth. It would lite up 2nd gear... given it was
cool to burn out for 1
full block, but it just didn't make much sense.
Ron Thompson wrote:
> Ask away Dennis, I had a 93 and there are several
friends that have a
> variety of other models. As with the 3000GT, I don't
have much use for
> the Turbo FWD, not enough traction for the power. If
he plans to put
> mods on it, it will only get worse.
>
>
Ron
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
14:26:57 1999
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From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
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Milan dragway (near Detroit MI) just opened this
weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to play soon. I'm
running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors, and all the HKS
controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC III, VPC, GCC
etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs boost. Car has
a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS Turbo Clutch (to be
swapped with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current set up with
nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the street. Should I
upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise boost to 20psi).
Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels including Mach 104 unleaded
($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is there any reason I can't run
leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would the lead poison my O2 or
damage anything else in the fuel
injection system? I'm thinking a half
tank of 104 or higher would be
good security while running the car
hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough fuel pressure to ensure proper
fuel delivery at the higher engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch
voltage during a run to ensure the
mixture is appropriately fuel rich.
What is the acceptable voltage
during full boost from a stock O2
sensor? I do have an AFR gage but
would rather look at actual
voltage. I also have EGT probes for both
front and rear banks, but they
are located nearly a foot downstream of
the turbos and therefore give
marginal info at best.
Launch and shifting Technique
I see that a majority
of the fastest VR-4/TT are achieving 1.8 second 60
foot times whether
modified or near stock when aggressively driven. Can
this be achieved
without dumping the clutch. I'm envisioning slipping
the clutch from
around 3500 rpm (this worked well for me during street
races). I've
also come close to power shifting several of my previous
cars but wont
attempt this with the Stealth. I know approximately .1
second can be
made up with each shift by power shifting (versus letting
off the gas and
shifting as quickly as possible) - this based on N.A.
cars. I've seen a
stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's with power shifting
all gears while the same
car could only achieve 13.9's without power
shifting (this was the fastest
stock LS1 last year at the Pontiac drag
get together at Milan last year -
only mod was possibly a premium fuel
calibration as downloaded from power
programmer). The shifts were still
quick (would chirp the tires on 1-2
and 2-3 shifts) but the right foot
did not stay planted. Any way, do I
have any hope of achieving mid 12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to power
shift? What technique have
some of the fastest cars out there used to
achieve their times.
I don't want to hurt my car at the track but I'll need
to drive it
hard. Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or
better. Reason being
that both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I
can currently beat every
time out but they are both ordering ATI
superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they expect to run mid 12's on street
tires. So my mission is
to get the most out of my car and perhaps
upgrade as necessary to hang
or better yet stay on top. BTY- is anyone
out there running the light
weight flywheel and or carbon fiber 2 piece
driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best lightweight rim out
there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible discussion
board repetition
Joe Gonsowski
Nope, I was going to change the fluid because I don't
like the way it
shifts. That's when I noticed the leak.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
14:45:35 1999
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999
15:37:42 -0600
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When I raced at the import shootout in Denver I never
dumped the clutch
because I'm always afraid of what might happen. plus the
cost to replace it!
So I know this hurt my times allot, what I did was that I
would bring the
tach upto 5500 and when the second light came on I would
slowly let out the
clutch to were the car starts to grab thus keeping the
turbos revved up and
then when the car starts to move then I would pop it out
the rest of the way
and away I go so no turbo lag and no broken tranies. Now
my time I ran was a
12.716 at 114mph 88deg at 6875 ft above sealevel. So I'm
sure if I dumped
the clutch and power shifted I would be like what you stated
in the high
11's. The question you ask yourself is at what price do I want
those fast
times!!! This season I'll still be doing the same technique since
I don't
have a spare $3200 :(
I used sunoco 100 unleaded and the car ran
great at 20 psi! I was told if
you mixed the gas that would be fine too but
pure leaded would kill the
o-2's :(
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski
[mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 6:27 PM
To: 3000GT / Stealth List
Subject: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Milan dragway (near Detroit MI) just opened this
weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to play soon. I'm
running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors, and all the HKS
controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC III, VPC, GCC
etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs boost. Car has
a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS Turbo Clutch (to be
swapped with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current set up with
nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the street. Should I
upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise boost to 20psi).
Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels including Mach 104 unleaded
($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is there any reason I can't run
leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would the lead poison my O2 or
damage anything else in the fuel
injection system? I'm thinking a half
tank of 104 or higher would be
good security while running the car
hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough fuel pressure to ensure proper
fuel delivery at the higher engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch
voltage during a run to ensure the
mixture is appropriately fuel rich.
What is the acceptable voltage
during full boost from a stock O2
sensor? I do have an AFR gage but
would rather look at actual
voltage. I also have EGT probes for both
front and rear banks, but they
are located nearly a foot downstream of
the turbos and therefore give
marginal info at best.
Launch and shifting Technique
I see that a majority
of the fastest VR-4/TT are achieving 1.8 second 60
foot times whether
modified or near stock when aggressively driven. Can
this be achieved
without dumping the clutch. I'm envisioning slipping
the clutch from
around 3500 rpm (this worked well for me during street
races). I've
also come close to power shifting several of my previous
cars but wont
attempt this with the Stealth. I know approximately .1
second can be
made up with each shift by power shifting (versus letting
off the gas and
shifting as quickly as possible) - this based on N.A.
cars. I've seen a
stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's with power shifting
all gears while the same
car could only achieve 13.9's without power
shifting (this was the fastest
stock LS1 last year at the Pontiac drag
get together at Milan last year -
only mod was possibly a premium fuel
calibration as downloaded from power
programmer). The shifts were still
quick (would chirp the tires on 1-2
and 2-3 shifts) but the right foot
did not stay planted. Any way, do I
have any hope of achieving mid 12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to power
shift? What technique have
some of the fastest cars out there used to
achieve their times.
I don't want to hurt my car at the track but I'll need
to drive it
hard. Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or
better. Reason being
that both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I
can currently beat every
time out but they are both ordering ATI
superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they expect to run mid 12's on street
tires. So my mission is
to get the most out of my car and perhaps
upgrade as necessary to hang
or better yet stay on top. BTY- is anyone
out there running the light
weight flywheel and or carbon fiber 2 piece
driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best lightweight rim out
there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible discussion
board repetition
Joe Gonsowski
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
14:53:06 1999
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From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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I've thought about this and I know Arty is doing it.
There is a ton,
almost literally of weight in our cars. Think about all the
luxo
features and what it takes to run them.
Power windows
power door locks
power
antenna
rear wiper
Exhaust
active areo
cruise
AC
Full
interior
Hood
Fenders
rear hatch !!!!!
ABS pump
Stereo
The
whole floor in the trunk
Active stuts
28# flywheel
AIR pump and
cats
stock wheels
discs
If you think race car, barely street able there is tons
of junk in the
car that can go. 11 seconds is a reach but I don't think 600#
is.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
15:16:32 1999
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Re: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
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> Fuel
> To date, I've run my current set up
with nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
> with good luck on the street.
Should I upgrade to racing fuel for the
> track (say I raise boost to
20psi).
The pro is that with racing fuel you can prevent
detonation with it and not by
dumping fuel in the chambers and running too
rich then. This will alow you to
lean it mroe out that finally ends in more
power :)
> Would the lead poison my O2 or damage anything
else in the fuel
> injection system?
I don't know if our O2 are gonna be killed but the one
on the Camaro of a friend
went south due to this. It is not 100% sure because
I think igniting gas in the
exhaust part was the killer. Anything else will
not be hurt by the lead.
> Also, is 4bars (~59 psi) enough fuel pressure to
ensure proper fuel delivery
> at the higher engine speeds?
Where is your (new) redline ?
> What is the acceptable voltage during full boost
from a stock O2 sensor?
Unfortunately, the stock O2 sensors are somewhat
digital and the hysteresis of
the signal is very small. Therefore the signal
jumps evry quick from 900mV to
110mV and back. I learned that the readings
are different on the cars but the
ECU just looks for the change. To go the
save way get a hig hresolution O2
sensor (like Bosch) and hook up a Volt
meter. Then around 750mV should be save.
> would rather look at actual voltage. I also
have EGT probes for both
> front and rear banks, but they are located
nearly a foot downstream of
> the turbos and therefore give marginal info
at best.
You may add some (50 or 100) degrees to the readings to
get close to what is
going on at the flame front.
> Launch and shifting Technique
No add-on from me ... I'm maybe the worlds dumbest
starter :-( I know how to
drive very fast on tracks but starting is my
weakest point. I hope the RPS god
will help me in the future (info follows
very soon).
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N
FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/
tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
> At least one exists. About a year ago on
starnet, someone posted a URL
> about a guy who had bought a Stealth RT/TT
and converted it to RWD. The
> car had custom rear fenders to cover
the whopping huge tires he put on it
> (I'm thinking 350's or bigger?). He
had rotated the engine 90 degrees,
> and had to add another set of the
strut tower covers to give him extra
> clearance for front end of the
engine. The owner lived in South America,
> as I
recall.
You sure you're not talking about a VR-4? If I'm
remembering correctly,
Todd Shelton posted a link to pictures he had on his
site of a guy that
took his first gen 3000GT w/ 2nd gen parts (or vice
versa). He had to
extended the panels on the side to accomadate a longer
Porsche 944 RWD
driveshaft. When he rotated the engine 90 degrees, he had to
put two
additional strut covers on the hood for clearance. I'm searching out
the
pictures now. Hopefully if Todd sees this email he'll post the
URL.
Okay,
The guys name is Isacc Perez, he lives in
Venezuala, and the car was
featured in "The best of Turbo
magazine", if that helps anybody.....
Wayne
At 05:24 PM 4/5/99 , you wrote:
>> At least one exists. About a year
ago on starnet, someone posted a URL
>> about a guy who had bought a
Stealth RT/TT and converted it to RWD. The
>> car had custom rear
fenders to cover the whopping huge tires he put on it
>> (I'm thinking
350's or bigger?). He had rotated the engine 90 degrees,
>> and had to
add another set of the strut tower covers to give him extra
>>
clearance for front end of the engine. The owner lived in South
America,
>> as I recall.
>
>You sure you're not talking
about a VR-4? If I'm remembering correctly,
>Todd Shelton posted a link to
pictures he had on his site of a guy that
>took his first gen 3000GT w/
2nd gen parts (or vice versa). He had to
>extended the panels on the side
to accomadate a longer Porsche 944 RWD
>driveshaft. When he rotated the
engine 90 degrees, he had to put two
>additional strut covers on the hood
for clearance. I'm searching out the
>pictures now. Hopefully if Todd sees
this email he'll post the URL.
>
>--Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
15:38:15 1999
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From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
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Team3S: RWD VR-4 Found... I knew I could
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Yup, here ya'll go. A badass mobile on ONE of Todd's
sites (aahah, Todd,
this is the first time I've ever seen a personal site
MIRRORED before..
good work)
Ya, thank me later. BTW, $50 finder's
fee.heheheh
<html>
<head>
<meta NAME="Author" CONTENT="Todd
Shelton">
<meta NAME="GENERATOR"
CONTENT="Mozilla/4.05 [en] (Win95; I) [Netscape]">
<title>Perez</title>
</head>
<body>
<a
HREF="Perez1.jpg"><img SRC="Perez1_s.jpg"
HEIGHT="178" WIDTH="300"></a> <a
HREF="Perez2.jpg"><img SRC="Perez2_s.jpg"
HEIGHT="217" WIDTH="300"></a>
<p><a HREF="Perez3.jpg"><img
SRC="Perez3_s.jpg" HEIGHT="216"
WIDTH="300"></a> <a
HREF="Perez4.jpg"><img SRC="Perez4_s.jpg"
HEIGHT="198"
WIDTH="300"></a>
</body>
</html>
--------------6D2FA27171F625BEB87EB680--
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From: Gavin
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching? -Reply
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High 11s? Hmm... I don't much about your car...but if
you are
successfully launching the way you say you are and getting 12.7s
don't
expect dropping the clutch to give you high 11s. More like low
12s
maybe.
How much hp exactly do you have and what are your mods?
Not for this
discussion...just interested....
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com> 04/05/99 05:37pm
>>>
When I raced at the import shootout in Denver I never dumped the
clutch
because I'm always afraid of what might happen. plus the cost
to
replace it!
So I know this hurt my times allot, what I did was that I
would bring the
tach upto 5500 and when the second light came on I would
slowly let out
the
clutch to were the car starts to grab thus keeping the
turbos revved up
and
then when the car starts to move then I would pop it
out the rest of the
way
and away I go so no turbo lag and no broken
tranies. Now my time I ran
was a
12.716 at 114mph 88deg at 6875 ft above
sealevel. So I'm sure if I
dumped
the clutch and power shifted I would be
like what you stated in the high
11's. The question you ask yourself is at
what price do I want those fast
times!!! This season I'll still be doing the
same technique since I don't
have a spare $3200 :(
I used sunoco 100
unleaded and the car ran great at 20 psi! I was told if
you mixed the gas
that would be fine too but pure leaded would kill the
o-2's :(
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski
[mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 6:27 PM
To: 3000GT / Stealth List
Subject: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Milan dragway (near Detroit MI) just opened this
weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to play soon. I'm
running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors, and all the HKS
controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC III, VPC, GCC
etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs boost. Car has
a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS Turbo Clutch (to be
swapped
with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current set up with
nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the street. Should I
upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise boost to 20psi).
Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels including Mach 104 unleaded
($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is there any reason I can't run
leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would the lead poison my O2 or
damage anything else in the fuel
injection system? I'm thinking a half
tank of 104 or higher would be
good security while running the car
hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough fuel pressure to ensure proper
fuel delivery at the higher engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch
voltage during a run to ensure
the
mixture is appropriately fuel
rich. What is the acceptable voltage
during full boost from a stock O2
sensor? I do have an AFR gage but
would rather look at actual
voltage. I also have EGT probes for both
front and rear banks, but they
are located nearly a foot downstream of
the turbos and therefore give
marginal info at best.
Launch and shifting Technique
I see that a majority
of the fastest VR-4/TT are achieving 1.8 second 60
foot times whether
modified or near stock when aggressively driven.
Can
this be achieved
without dumping the clutch. I'm envisioning slipping
the clutch from
around 3500 rpm (this worked well for me during street
races). I've
also come close to power shifting several of my previous
cars but wont
attempt this with the Stealth. I know approximately .1
second can be
made up with each shift by power shifting (versus letting
off the gas and
shifting as quickly as possible) - this based on N.A.
cars. I've seen a
stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's with power shifting
all gears while the same
car could only achieve 13.9's without power
shifting (this was the fastest
stock LS1 last year at the Pontiac drag
get together at Milan last year -
only mod was possibly a premium fuel
calibration as downloaded from power
programmer). The shifts were
still
quick (would chirp the tires on
1-2 and 2-3 shifts) but the right foot
did not stay planted. Any way,
do I have any hope of achieving mid 12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to
power shift? What technique have
some of the fastest cars out there
used to achieve their times.
I don't want to hurt my car at the track but I'll need
to drive it
hard. Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or
better. Reason being
that both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I
can currently beat every
time out but they are both ordering ATI
superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they expect to run mid 12's on street
tires. So my mission is
to get the most out of my car and perhaps
upgrade as necessary to
hang
or better yet stay on top. BTY- is
anyone out there running the light
weight flywheel and or carbon fiber 2
piece driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best lightweight rim out
there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible discussion
board repetition
Joe Gonsowski
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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> I'd tend to agree that 11's on the stock turbos
would be difficult.
Guys,
Is noone else aware that Adam Weltz ran
12.32 (or very near), supposeldy with nothing
more than intake, complete
exhaust, and a boost controller. Also Mike Mahaffey ran
12.12@112.5 with stock turbos. I believe
virtually nothing was done to cut weight in
these cars. It aint all
that difficult guys.
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching? -Reply
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It is the way I'm launching because my 60ft times are
ranging from the
lowest of 2.1 and on that run a 2.5. I'm loosing allot of
time doing what I
do but it relief's the stress off of the drive train. My
mods are the same
as yours except for down pipe,hks intercooler hard pipes,
and gcc and
running ihi compressors over the 15g setup. My mph is low which
means I'm
loosing hp somewhere on top end which I have yet to find out why???
I know I
have a bad injector that's being replaced but I know I shouldn't of
lost
that much from that so the search does go on.
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
High 11s? Hmm... I don't much about your car...but
if you are
successfully launching the way you say you are and getting 12.7s
don't
expect dropping the clutch to give you high 11s. More like low
12s
maybe.
How much hp exactly do you have and what are your mods?
Not for this
discussion...just interested....
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com> 04/05/99 05:37pm
>>>
When I raced at the import shootout in Denver I never dumped the
clutch
because I'm always afraid of what might happen. plus the cost
to
replace it!
So I know this hurt my times allot, what I did was that I
would bring the
tach upto 5500 and when the second light came on I would
slowly let out
the
clutch to were the car starts to grab thus keeping the
turbos revved up
and
then when the car starts to move then I would pop it
out the rest of the
way
and away I go so no turbo lag and no broken
tranies. Now my time I ran
was a
12.716 at 114mph 88deg at 6875 ft above
sealevel. So I'm sure if I
dumped
the clutch and power shifted I would be
like what you stated in the high
11's. The question you ask yourself is at
what price do I want those fast
times!!! This season I'll still be doing the
same technique since I don't
have a spare $3200 :(
I used sunoco 100
unleaded and the car ran great at 20 psi! I was told if
you mixed the gas
that would be fine too but pure leaded would kill the
o-2's :(
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski
[mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent:
Monday, April 05, 1999 6:27 PM
To: 3000GT / Stealth List
Subject: Team3S:
TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
Milan dragway (near Detroit MI) just opened this
weekend and I'll be
bringing my moded '92 Stealth out to play soon. I'm
running 15G turbos,
reprogrammed ECU, 550cc injectors, and all the HKS
controllers to keep
fuel and boost where they should be (EVC III, VPC, GCC
etc.). I'm
hoping to run in the mid 12's on 18 lbs boost. Car has
a fairly new '93
5speed and transfer case with an RPS Turbo Clutch (to be
swapped
with
newly acquired TC Carbon if and when it dies).
I'd like to solicit the groups input in two areas, fuel
and
launching/shifting technique.
Fuel
To date, I've run my current set up with
nothing but 94 Octane pump gas
with good luck on the street. Should I
upgrade to racing fuel for the
track (say I raise boost to 20psi).
Milan carries a full line of TORCO
racing fuels including Mach 104 unleaded
($4.25/gal) and up to Mach 118
leaded. Is there any reason I can't run
leaded? My cats are long
gone. Would the lead poison my O2 or
damage anything else in the fuel
injection system? I'm thinking a half
tank of 104 or higher would be
good security while running the car
hard. Also, is 4bars (~59 psi)
enough fuel pressure to ensure proper
fuel delivery at the higher engine
speeds? I heard some DSM guys watch
voltage during a run to ensure
the
mixture is appropriately fuel
rich. What is the acceptable voltage
during full boost from a stock O2
sensor? I do have an AFR gage but
would rather look at actual
voltage. I also have EGT probes for both
front and rear banks, but they
are located nearly a foot downstream of
the turbos and therefore give
marginal info at best.
Launch and shifting Technique
I see that a majority
of the fastest VR-4/TT are achieving 1.8 second 60
foot times whether
modified or near stock when aggressively driven.
Can
this be achieved
without dumping the clutch. I'm envisioning slipping
the clutch from
around 3500 rpm (this worked well for me during street
races). I've
also come close to power shifting several of my previous
cars but wont
attempt this with the Stealth. I know approximately .1
second can be
made up with each shift by power shifting (versus letting
off the gas and
shifting as quickly as possible) - this based on N.A.
cars. I've seen a
stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's with power shifting
all gears while the same
car could only achieve 13.9's without power
shifting (this was the fastest
stock LS1 last year at the Pontiac drag
get together at Milan last year -
only mod was possibly a premium fuel
calibration as downloaded from power
programmer). The shifts were
still
quick (would chirp the tires on
1-2 and 2-3 shifts) but the right foot
did not stay planted. Any way,
do I have any hope of achieving mid 12's
if I'm making ~500 hp but refuse to
power shift? What technique have
some of the fastest cars out there
used to achieve their times.
I don't want to hurt my car at the track but I'll need
to drive it
hard. Like I said, I hope to achieve mid 12's or
better. Reason being
that both my house mates have '94 Vettes that I
can currently beat every
time out but they are both ordering ATI
superchargers (intercooled 9
psi) and they expect to run mid 12's on street
tires. So my mission is
to get the most out of my car and perhaps
upgrade as necessary to
hang
or better yet stay on top. BTY- is
anyone out there running the light
weight flywheel and or carbon fiber 2
piece driveshaft? How are they?
What is the best lightweight rim out
there?
Thanks in advance, apologize for possible discussion
board repetition
Joe Gonsowski
pics are on todd shelton's mirror website:
Omar
92 r/t
>
> At least one exists. About a year
ago on starnet, someone posted a URL
> about a guy who had bought a
Stealth RT/TT and converted it to RWD. The
> car had custom rear
fenders to cover the whopping huge tires he put on it
> (I'm thinking
350's or bigger?). He had rotated the engine 90 degrees,
> and had to add
another set of the strut tower covers to give him extra
> clearance for
front end of the engine. The owner lived in South America,
> as I
recall.
>
> Anybody here recall that discussion, or the URL where
the pix were posted?
> I can't find it. :(
> > A RWD VR4 I would love to see!
:-)
> >
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
16:28:02 1999
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Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 16:27:00 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
Organization:
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Leaking coolant
References: <3.0.3.32.19990405104942.00713238@cedar-rapids.net>
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Merritt wrote:
> Whilst crawling around under the 94 VR4
yesterday,
> I spotted a coolant leak.
> [snip]
>
Any ideas where this leak might be coming from?
> Gotta fix it: we're
going racin' in two weeks.
Most likely it is a bad water pump. I have this
exact
same problem, and I am not repeat ~not~ happy about
it. You
definitely want to fix it because your timing belt
could break if coolant got
onto it. My local Mits quoted
me $1000 to do the water pump and timing
belt. I'll
probably end up doing it myself. :-/
BTW, this is a fairly common problem with the
3000GT.
Not happy,
--Errin Humphrey
R.G. wrote:
> > Also, is 4bars (~59 psi) enough fuel pressure
to ensure proper fuel delivery
> > at the higher engine
speeds?
>
> Where is your (new) redline ?
Through all the mods, I've maintained the stock redline
of 7,000rpm. Are many of you
running higher engine speeds? I
assume fuel cut-off is controlled in the ECU, right? I
don't think the
stock cam will make any usable power above 7,000rpm.
Joe Gonsowski
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
17:20:22 1999
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Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 20:20:40 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
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<00e201be7f9d$c5f4cb60$9cf186cd@BobForrest>
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Bob,
Then move to Florida; it is even flatter than Kansas,
but a bit more
hip!
Regards,
Lynn
Bob Forrest wrote:
>
> And why KANSAS,
(you fiend)??? Hasn't anyone ever told them they're
> actually
allowed to LEAVE? :-) I'm strictly a city boy...
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Earlier, I asked from whence my coolant leak might be
coming, and several
people suggested that my problem may be a water pump
going south.
If this is the case, it should be covered under my
extended warranty.
What else should I have them take care of while they
are in there?
The car had its 60,000 mile service done last
year, but I don't know if
they replaced the tensioner (I bought the car with
the service completed).
Can I demand (successfully within the warranty) that
they replace the
timing belt on the grounds it may have been corrupted by the
coolant?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
19:56:33 1999
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From:
"Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<3707E711.C70505F5@ibm.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Powder Coating
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 21:59:12
-0500
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Speaking of Powder Coating:
The March issue of Powder Coating Magazine (it's a
trade journal, no babes
in bikinis...) features automotive applications for
powder coating. In
addition to wheels, springs, "cattle
guards", valve covers, and other
applications which have become quite
common, Daimler-Chrysler (that still
sounds odd to say) is using PC for
corrosion control on the frame of the
SmartCar. It's the first car in
which the frame is 100% PC.
Also, DC is using powder coating as the final clear
coat for the SmartCar,
and all BMW's produced at their Dingolfing Works plant
have been PC finish
coated since 1996.
Now if only someone would perfect a UV-curable
do-it-yourself PC kit that I
could apply in my garage...
For every action, there is an equal and opposite
criticism.
Dennis Moore wrote:snip
> Also, DC is using powder coating as the final
clear coat for the SmartCar,
> and all BMW's produced at their Dingolfing
Works plant have been PC finish
> coated since 1996.
>
How bullet proof is this PC clear coat (ie: does it
show the same swirls you'd get on a
clear coat over black, for
instance?)
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
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Paul,
I recently gutted all 3 of my cats, I
won't begin to detail what a
pain it was, especially since you didn't
ask. The ECU acts no
differently, we did reset it for this. My
car idles very smoothly, no
apparent change from before. The only
draw-backs that I've noticed
would be an increase of exhaust fumes when
cold. I most frequently pull
nose first into my driveway, while I'm
backing up, usually with the
windows down, I can smell more exhaust. I
didn't replace the gaskets,
and it's possible I may have an exhaust leak, but
I have no reason to
believe so, no leaky exhaust sounds. An exhaust
leak would also explain
the rise in exhaust fumes inside the cabin, but it
seems to make sense
that no cats would do the same.
On the plus
side, my car definitely seemed to pull harder, and it
sounds quite nasty
now. It rumbles a bit at idle and low revs. It
absolutely screams
at high RPMs, especially through underpasses :) It
will backfire mildly
when it bounces off the rev limiter, and sometimes
after letting off the gas
or between shifting. Most of the backfires
(if in fact that's what they
are) are fairly mild pops, not like you're
normal gunshot sounding
backfire. It kinda disappointed me at first,
but most of the seriously
modified cars I've seen run sound very similar
between shifts. It
definitely doesn't sound smooth, kinda rumbles and
gurgles. If you
speak the language, it says I'm modified, back off lest
I spank you severely
:)
Jason
94 VR4
> "Paul T. Golley" wrote:
>
>
All-
> I would like to know what concequences result from removal
(or
> gutting)of
> either the main cat, and/or the pre-cats on a '95
VR-4. Viz: What
> does the
> ECU do differently as a
result of the changed 02 sensor outputs?
> Much thanks for any
explanations.
> Regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Mon, 5 Apr 1999 21:51:08 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 21:51:27
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> -----Original Message-----
> An exhaust leak would also explain
> the
rise in exhaust fumes inside the cabin, but it seems to make sense
> that
no cats would do the same.
I am not sure that I follow your reasoning here.
If there is no leak there
shouldn't be any more fumes in the cabin, but maybe
without the cats the
smell is stronger/different. *shrug*
> On the plus side, my car definitely
seemed to pull harder, and it
> sounds quite nasty now. It rumbles a
bit at idle and low revs. It
> absolutely screams at high RPMs,
especially through underpasses :) It
> will backfire mildly when it
bounces off the rev limiter, and sometimes
> after letting off the gas or
between shifting. Most of the backfires
> (if in fact that's what
they are) are fairly mild pops, not like you're
> normal gunshot sounding
backfire.
> Jason
> 94 VR4
That is likely unspent fuel combusting in the exhaust
manifolds. It would
have been happening before too, but is now likely
just more noticale without
the extra baffling the cat would have
provided.
Reading your description piques my interest in hearing
how different my car
sounds with headers and the pre-cat eliminator
pipes. If I ever get the
damn engine in that is...
Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Pre-cat eliminator pipes
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 00:07:00
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>> -----In a related message Barry
wrote-----
>
>Reading your description piques my interest in hearing
how different my car
>sounds with headers and the pre-cat eliminator
pipes. If I ever get
Barry,
how did the pre-cat eliminator pipes turn
out? Is the fabricator willing to
turn out more of these, and if so, do
you know roughly how much they will
cost?
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Free part available
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 00:14:01
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Anyone interested in a used fuel filter can come over
to my house and get
it - only problem is that it is still in the car... and
the bolts to the
fuel line are slightly rounded... I know we are not
supposed to swear on
this list, but sometimes it is just called for -
%$#@!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
tired and pissed
off
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
References: <000701be7fe9$2133c120$0500a8c0@beast.kingdom.com>
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"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
>
> > An exhaust leak would also
explain
> > the rise in exhaust fumes inside the cabin, but it seems to
make sense
> > that no cats would do the same.
>
> I am
not sure that I follow your reasoning here. If there is no leak
there
> shouldn't be any more fumes in the cabin, but maybe without the
cats the
> smell is stronger/different. *shrug*
Basically as you said. I've got no reason to
believe there is an
exhaust leak besides the additional fumes. No rough
running or loss of
power, no whistles or other sounds. I'm assuming
that what I smell is
due to not being removed as the cats are intended to
do. It also smells
somewhat different, hard to explain
though.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 5
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Pre-cat eliminator pipes
Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 22:44:04
-0700
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The pipes turned out great. I'll get some new
pictures sometime. Mine were
an experiement and they look good -- any
new ones he builds should look even
better. They are Jet Hot ceramic
coated to boot which really adds a nice
touch to the look. Seems a
shame to put them in and have them turn color.
The coating should help keep
the heat in the pipe where it is supposed to be
and also make them more
durable (resistant to cracking from high temps).
The guy that built them does not want to get into the
fabrication game too
much, but may build more of them if sufficient interest
is generated. He
stated that he definitely will not build them in
quanitity and try and sell
them as there just isn't any profit in it, so if
any more are built they
will be on a per customer order basis.
The front one is dead simple. The rear one is the
one that has scared off
so many other fabricators, yet this guy took a look
at it and wasn't
intimidated at all. It was a lot of work but it turned
out great. As to
price, I would expect them to be around $500 or more
for the pair with
ceramic coating, but I cannot speak for him.
Interested individuals would
have to call and ask him directly.
If anyone wants his number please contact me
privately. He also does
exceptional headwork.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
Barry,
> how did the pre-cat eliminator pipes turn out? Is the
fabricator
> willing to
> turn out more of these, and if so, do you
know roughly how much they will
> cost?
>
> Oskar
> '95
R/T TT
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
Subject: Team3S: TORCO Racing Fuel? & Launching?
> I wont
attempt powershift with the Stealth. approximately .1
> second
can be made up with each shift by power shifting (versus letting
> off the
gas and shifting as quickly as possible) - this based on N.A.
>
cars. I've seen a stock '98 Ram Air TA run 13.5's with power
shifting
> all gears while the same car could only achieve 13.9's without
powershift.
> quick but right footdid not stay planted. do I have hope
of mid 12's
> if ~500 hp but refuse to power shift? What
technique have
> some of the fastest cars out there used to achieve their
times.
> Joe Gonsowski
I would not powershift (leave foot on floor) to shift
our cars if you want the synchros
to last very long at all. You
will start missing shifts (trans will block the shift)
and then grinding
gears. Also, on full boost, if you shift at 6700-6900 you will
hit
revlimiter which can screw things up anyway. I always lift throttle
shift.
Jack Tertadian
'93 VR4 10.81 @ 128.44
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch problems-- need advice...
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 05:46:49
-0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Gross, Erik <erik.gross@intel.com>
|> I
smoked the clutch a few times when I visited a friend who
|> lives up in
the
|> hills around Sausalito-- I had to BACK slowly up a
30-degree
|> hill around
|> curves and stumps for about 200
feet. I could smell the disc
|> burning so I
|> knew the harm
I'd done...
|
|I know this may be redundant redundant, but e-brake, my
friend, e-brake.
|While I was going to school in Pittsburgh (not quite as bad
as SF, but...)
|I'm sure that saved me several clutches. Use e-brake to
hold you in place
------------friendly advice snipped-----------
Absolutely. I'm glad you mentioned that for the
newer drivers... To many
of us old racers, though, using the e-brake
technique on anything less than
a killer hill would be an
embarrassment-- we pride ourselves on knowing our
car & clutch and
practiced exactly where the friction point is... I'll puff
out my chest
a bit by saying that on most hills up to 30 degrees (no,
Pittsburgh doesn't
have any, heh, heh...), I can get moving forward without
rolling back more
than a couple of inches WITHOUT using the e-brake method,
and without
slipping the clutch. But in San Francisco there are LOTS of
hills in
the 35 to 40-degree range where, in traffic, e-brake starts ARE a
must.
Recently, in our Team3S Bay Area Northwest Gathering in January
(BANG'99) I
took the other 8 S/3ks up a hill behind a 40-car waiting line to
see
"Lombard Street - the twistiest street in the world", and we ALL had
to
e-brake up one documented 38-degree, 600-foot hill, ONE car at a
time
through the intersection at the top just to get to it... And to
give credit
to those Team3S drivers-- none of us smoked the clutch (but mine
started to
slip a bit once it warmed up when we got near the
top).
To keep this from just being chat, let me make an
important technical
point-- Our clutches (even the ones on the turbos)
are NOT made to take
that kind of punishment any more than they are designed
for towing farm
vehicles. Some racing clutches can take 500 or 600 or
more pounds of
holding pressure, but most stock clutches can only take half
that. (I
remember in a recent post that Jack T's competition clutch did
about 650# or
so...). I smoked my clutch into oblivion, not with poor
technique, but
because I simply made a foolish choice-- going UP an unpaved
30-degree hill
(correction: my friend told me it's 40-degree) IN REVERSE, and
around
obstacles is just NOT something the FWD Stealth NT was designed
for...
(There are mountain bikes that can't do it going
forward!)
Any other feedback or advice on the clutch replacement
I ordered, the RPS
Carbon Claw, will be appreciated...
TIA,
Forrest
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
07:08:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:08:43 -0500
(EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Powder Coating
In-Reply-To: <37098495.38F3579C@bc.sympatico.ca>
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According to the article, BMW is convinced it's
superior. They spent
about 6 years on R&D before starting a pilot
project, and they went to
full production with it about a year
later.
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held
it's ground.
On Mon, 5 Apr 1999 wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
[snip]
>
> How bullet proof is this PC clear coat (ie:
does it show the same swirls you'd get on a
> clear coat over black, for
instance?)
>
> Best
>
> Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
07:24:23 1999
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To:
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Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:08:04 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Spyder
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Hey all:
A buddy of mine made the mistake of thinking he needed
to go full-exec
and sold his Spyder last year, buying a LS 400. That's
right, a
Lexus..... I did the same thing, and asked him that if in the
future he
was going to smoke that stuff, he should share with his
friends. (Ahem)
Anyway, what a surprise, his wife is now driving it
and he wants another
Spyder yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage,
black or white (no
red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the
last year," and because
I have a VR4, I don't really know enough about
the Spyder's, so forgive
my ignorance). So if anyone can help, please
e-mail me privately, and
I'll forward the info on to him. Please keep
in mind we live up here in
sunny, warm, subtropical Milwaukee, so he'd
probably prefer to find
something closer than New Zealand (no offense, Kevin,
Cheers!).
Thanks, and best regards,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
08:34:53 1999
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Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 15:37:54 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
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Team3S: new toy
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I just bought (stole, $12,750) a '94 VR-4. It has a few
bugs I need to get
worked out. My other car is a 91 RT/TT (for sale soon) so
I am not very
familiar with the new one.
The main things wrong with it are:
1 active aero
doesn't work
2 dash lamps don't work
3 interior fuse #7, headlamp relay
pops as soon as I put it in (headlights
work fine)
I would look in my
manual, but it's in Chicago. The car and I are presently
in Los Angeles. I
know how well Mitsu labels all their fuses, so was
wondering if all 3 things
are related. A short in the aero causes the fuse
to pop which turns off the
dash lights? I know I'm stretching, but to
troubleshoot you mirrors you check
the lighter. Is there anyone out there
who could help me out.
Thanks
I love this car!!!
'94 Green VR-4
'91 Pearl While
RT/TT
'86 Yamaha V-max
gotta go! gotta go!
--
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
-You
"put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your
thoughts"
-Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
08:38:17 1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Fw: RPS Clutch / flywheel
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:37:37
-0700
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I posted this the other day and received no response.
At a minimum
I would like to get a set of used syncros to show him[ I'll pay
shipping ] .
If anyone has an old set laying around email me fastmax@home.com
JIm Berry
[snip]
> The Mueller Billet
>Aluminum Flywheel!
This thing is very light, weighing in at 13lbs (custom
>11&12 lb units
avail.) Compared to the stock 25lb+ flywheel. It is a
one
>piece design that is made by mueller fabricators in CA. I can
offer these
>for the TT and the NT cars at $560TT and
$550NT>
>
[snip]
>>his web page says if it's can be made of
metal we can do it ---- anybody
>>talk to him about syncro
rings.
>>
>> Jim berry
>
>
>I
answered my own question by calling Mueller Fabricators and his
response
>was ---- sure no problem !!
>I know we've looked at this
approach before but it seems that when all was
>said and done, more was
said, than done. Has anyone made any progress
>on the syncro-ring
issue.
>I don't have any syncros to take in and show him, but if this is
still an
>unresolved
>issue I'll be happy to follow up on the
possibility of them fabricating the
>rings.
>If someone could
provide me with used rings I could take them in for him
>to look at. If he
can fabricate them he would, at some time need a new set
>to copy. However
as a first step used rings should suffice.
>If on the other hand there is
a Getrag/Mitsu solution in the offing I'll
>just hide and
watch.
>
>Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
>
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
>
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
>
[ suspension mods next ]
>
I know you don't want to hear this, but iv'e always
been one to look at the
worst case senerio first. The combination of the fuse
blowing as soon as
it's pushed in (which is an indication that there is a
short in the
wiring), and the fact that you got such a good deal on the car
suggests
that it's possible that the car has been repaired from a
collision.
Hopefully this is not the case, because if it is, it will be VERY
difficult
to track down the short. I'm just bringing this up so you're aware
of it.
Hopefully, once you have the book in hand, you will see where the
problem
is. I don't have a manual for that year, so i cant help decide if
these
circuits are tied together........Good luck.
Wayne
At 03:37 PM 4/5/99 , you wrote:
>I just bought
(stole, $12,750) a '94 VR-4. It has a few bugs I need to get
>worked out.
My other car is a 91 RT/TT (for sale soon) so I am not very
>familiar with
the new one.
>
>The main things wrong with it are:
>1 active
aero doesn't work
>2 dash lamps don't work
>3 interior fuse #7,
headlamp relay pops as soon as I put it in (headlights
>work
fine)
>I would look in my manual, but it's in Chicago. The car and I are
presently
>in Los Angeles. I know how well Mitsu labels all their fuses,
so was
>wondering if all 3 things are related. A short in the aero causes
the fuse
>to pop which turns off the dash lights? I know I'm stretching,
but to
>troubleshoot you mirrors you check the lighter. Is there anyone
out there
>who could help me out.
Thanks to all who contributed to my "leaking
coolant" problem.
Those who said "water pump" were dead
on.
A pressure test at the Mitsu dealer confirmed that, yes
indeed, the water
pump is leaking, and they are now replacing it -- along
with the timing
belt and tensioner, all covered by my extended
warranty.
Thanks to those who suggested replacing the belt
because of getting coolant
on it. The dealer was quite receptive to the idea,
and argued effectively
with the warranty company to get the belt and
tensioner covered under the
warranty. I got the impression that they would
have suggested it anyway,
even if I didn't bring it up, but you never know.
So far, my $1700 warranty has paid for a $3200
transmission and now a $700+
water pump.
My 60,000 service was done on the car a year ago (new
timing belt) prior to
purchase, so there's a lesson here: When you get YOUR
60,000 mile service
done, replace the water pump and tensioner, too. It costs
around $700 to go
in there for a timing belt (parts and labor), so the added
cost of a water
pump and tensioner is trivial.
A plug here for my Mitsu dealer, Bob Zimmerman
Ford/Mitsubishi in Cedar
Rapids. They helped me buy the car in St. Louis by
telling me what to watch
out for (clutch, Getrag, 60000 mile service, get a
warranty), then they
have since serviced the car, replaced the Getrag, and
now the water pump,
all without a hitch. The mechanics even treat the
VR4 with a certain
amount of respect. I know that Mitsu dealers get
slammed left and right on
this forum. So, if any folks on the list live in
Iowa, western Illinois,
northern Missouri, or southern Wisconsin, and can't
find adequate service
in their neck of the woods, try Zimmerman. We are about
five hours from
every Midwestern city.
Finally, to end this dreary diatribe, some of you may
remember that I
experienced severe overheating whilst running Porsche
Club drivers
schools. Whenever I ran it in 2nd gear and got lots of turbo
boost, it ran
very hot. I could cool it off by staying in 3rd gear for a
lap. I have
been attributing the problem to underhood heat from the
precats that's
being trapped by our sealed-up hood -- in spite of the
fact that none of
the other road racers have reported similar problems.
Question: Could this
overheating have been caused by the water pump starting
to go bad last
year? Does a water pump go slowly or all at once? With
the first event
coming up in two weeks, I think I shall forgo removing the
hood seals and
jacking up the back of the hood, and wait to see if the
overheating problem
comes back.
Again, thanks to everyone on the list for their help.
It really pays to ask the group when a problem arises.
But that's what
this forum is for, eh?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
10:58:16 1999
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Date:
Mon, 05 Apr 1999 18:02:10 -0500
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
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No, it wasn't in a collision. I thought that too. The
guy I bought it from
is Australian. He has to go back home, and just wanted
to get out of the
loan. I paid off the loan, he lost all his equity. It
worked out really well
for me, so far. It need a little TLC, just like most
used cars. New weather
stripping, scuffed & peeling rims, thorough
detailing, lots of little
things... You know stuff only people who really
love their cars bother to
fix.
Thanks for the reply though
Wayne wrote:
> the fact that you got such a good
deal on the car suggests
> that it's possible that the car has been
repaired from a collision.
>
--
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
Arlington
Heights, IL. 60004 Pager:
(888)
694-0222
-You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your
thoughts"
-Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
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From:
"Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: new toy
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:04:23 -0600
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Its sounds as though the car has been a water car. My
friend bought a iroc
that was in a flood and had tons of electrical problems
from the getgo but
the car was cheap though!
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
I know you don't want to hear this, but iv'e always
been one to look at the
worst case senerio first. The combination of the fuse
blowing as soon as
it's pushed in (which is an indication that there is a
short in the
wiring), and the fact that you got such a good deal on the car
suggests
that it's possible that the car has been repaired from a
collision.
Hopefully this is not the case, because if it is, it will be VERY
difficult
to track down the short. I'm just bringing this up so you're aware
of it.
Hopefully, once you have the book in hand, you will see where the
problem
is. I don't have a manual for that year, so i cant help decide if
these
circuits are tied together........Good luck.
Wayne
At 03:37 PM 4/5/99 , you wrote:
>I just bought
(stole, $12,750) a '94 VR-4. It has a few bugs I need to get
>worked out.
My other car is a 91 RT/TT (for sale soon) so I am not very
>familiar with
the new one.
>
>The main things wrong with it are:
>1 active
aero doesn't work
>2 dash lamps don't work
>3 interior fuse #7,
headlamp relay pops as soon as I put it in (headlights
>work
fine)
>I would look in my manual, but it's in Chicago. The car and I are
presently
>in Los Angeles. I know how well Mitsu labels all their fuses,
so was
>wondering if all 3 things are related. A short in the aero causes
the fuse
>to pop which turns off the dash lights? I know I'm stretching,
but to
>troubleshoot you mirrors you check the lighter. Is there anyone
out there
>who could help me out.
Todd Schmalzried wrote:
>
> No, it wasn't
in a collision. I thought that too. The guy I bought it from
> is
Australian. He has to go back home, and just wanted to get out of the
>
loan. I paid off the loan, he lost all his equity. It worked out really
well
> for me, so far. It need a little TLC, just like most used cars. New
weather
> stripping, scuffed & peeling rims, thorough detailing, lots
of little
> things... You know stuff only people who really love their
cars bother to
> fix.
Hey Todd,
Did you pick that one up in San Diego from Peter the
Austrailian? I
looked at that a couple of weeks ago with a
friend. It is mechanically
sound but needs a lot of TLC. The
front aero dam is missing & the
mechanism is jammed, there are a few
tears in the leather, the glass
quarter panels (??) need replacement, and the
drivers side has been
repainted. Good price though.
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
11:30:32 1999
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From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<19990406.092012.-153047.2.SJC0U812@juno.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 11:29:38 -0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I have 30k miles but I have a 7year 100k
warranty...
Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat on a
white VR-4 spyder...
They were all made in 95 some are called 96's but
they're all 95's...
Had a remote put on the top so it can be raised and
lowered from the
keyless...
Tires have 5k miles on em...
Asking $40k would probably take $37k but not really in
any hurry to sell...
-Bill
(Las Vegas, NV)
> Hey all:
>
> A buddy of mine made
the mistake of thinking he needed to go full-exec
> and sold his Spyder
last year, buying a LS 400. That's right, a
> Lexus..... I did
the same thing, and asked him that if in the future he
> was going to
smoke that stuff, he should share with his friends. (Ahem)
> Anyway,
what a surprise, his wife is now driving it and he wants another
> Spyder
yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage, black or white (no
>
red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the last year," and
because
> I have a VR4, I don't really know enough about the Spyder's, so
forgive
> my ignorance). So if anyone can help, please e-mail me
privately, and
> I'll forward the info on to him. Please keep in
mind we live up here in
> sunny, warm, subtropical Milwaukee, so he'd
probably prefer to find
> something closer than New Zealand (no offense,
Kevin, Cheers!).
>
> Thanks, and best regards,
>
>
Scott
>
___________________________________________________________________
> You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get
completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
> At 03:37 PM 4/5/99 , you
wrote:
> >I just bought (stole, $12,750) a '94 VR-4. It has a few bugs
I need to get
> >worked out. My other car is a 91 RT/TT (for sale soon)
so I am not very
> >familiar with the new one.
> >
>
>The main things wrong with it are:
> >1 active aero doesn't
work
> >2 dash lamps don't work
> >3 interior fuse #7,
headlamp relay pops as soon as I put it in (headlights
> >work
fine)
> >I would look in my manual, but it's in Chicago. The car and I
are presently
> >in Los Angeles. I know how well Mitsu labels all their
fuses, so was
> >wondering if all 3 things are related. A short in the
aero causes the fuse
> >to pop which turns off the dash lights? I know
I'm stretching, but to
> >troubleshoot you mirrors you check the
lighter. Is there anyone out there
> >who could help me
out.
A little more info on the active aero. The front
dam is missing on this
car. The hingend bracket that the movable part
of the dam attaches to
has jamed on something as the motor retracted.
You will probably have
to loosen the motor/assembly to free the bracket, then
perhaps wire the
brackets so it doesn't jam again. This may return the
aero motors to
function properly.
Good luck,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a
right, but three lefts do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
11:41:29 1999
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From:
"Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spyder
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:33:46 -0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Infiniti of Denver got in 2 spyders both red 95's vr-4.
They both have
13,700 miles and in perfect condition. I know they have sold
one of them. Oh
and the interior is black, I was inches from buying but
decided
naaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhh cant give up hipresr :)
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
I have 30k miles but I have a 7year 100k
warranty...
Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat on a
white VR-4 spyder...
They were all made in 95 some are called 96's but
they're all 95's...
Had a remote put on the top so it can be raised and
lowered from the
keyless...
Tires have 5k miles on em...
Asking $40k would probably take $37k but not really in
any hurry to sell...
-Bill
(Las Vegas, NV)
> Hey all:
>
> A buddy of mine made
the mistake of thinking he needed to go full-exec
> and sold his Spyder
last year, buying a LS 400. That's right, a
> Lexus..... I did
the same thing, and asked him that if in the future he
> was going to
smoke that stuff, he should share with his friends. (Ahem)
> Anyway,
what a surprise, his wife is now driving it and he wants another
> Spyder
yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage, black or white (no
>
red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the last year," and
because
> I have a VR4, I don't really know enough about the Spyder's, so
forgive
> my ignorance). So if anyone can help, please e-mail me
privately, and
> I'll forward the info on to him. Please keep in
mind we live up here in
> sunny, warm, subtropical Milwaukee, so he'd
probably prefer to find
> something closer than New Zealand (no offense,
Kevin, Cheers!).
>
> Thanks, and best regards,
>
>
Scott
>
___________________________________________________________________
> You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get
completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
11:45:47 1999
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From:
"Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"'stealth@starnet.net'"
<stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Seating
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:37:54 -0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Does anyone know where you can pick up some nice and
affordable seats for
our cars preferably sparco or cobra??? I'm looking for
some and the shops
here in Denver either don't have them or they are too much
for their worth
:( Thanx
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
I have 30k miles but I have a 7year 100k
warranty...
Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat on a
white VR-4 spyder...
They were all made in 95 some are called 96's but
they're all 95's...
Had a remote put on the top so it can be raised and
lowered from the
keyless...
Tires have 5k miles on em...
Asking $40k would probably take $37k but not really in
any hurry to sell...
-Bill
(Las Vegas, NV)
> Hey all:
>
> A buddy of mine made
the mistake of thinking he needed to go full-exec
> and sold his Spyder
last year, buying a LS 400. That's right, a
> Lexus..... I did
the same thing, and asked him that if in the future he
> was going to
smoke that stuff, he should share with his friends. (Ahem)
> Anyway,
what a surprise, his wife is now driving it and he wants another
> Spyder
yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage, black or white (no
>
red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the last year," and
because
> I have a VR4, I don't really know enough about the Spyder's, so
forgive
> my ignorance). So if anyone can help, please e-mail me
privately, and
> I'll forward the info on to him. Please keep in
mind we live up here in
> sunny, warm, subtropical Milwaukee, so he'd
probably prefer to find
> something closer than New Zealand (no offense,
Kevin, Cheers!).
>
> Thanks, and best regards,
>
>
Scott
>
___________________________________________________________________
> You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get
completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
When i first got my car back on the road, i was running
without a front
Aero skirt for a couple weeks while i was hunting for a used
one (new is
about $700). The bracket jammed against the car frame and caused
the active
aero to quit functioning, much the same as you have just
described. I just
un-jammed it and ran with the active aero off from that
point until i found
a skirt. My active areo works fine to this day, so this
one may have the
same problem. I think i may have to re-iderate the fact that
this car may
have seen some damage in it's life though, now knowing that the
front skirt
is missing, and one side has been re-painted, if in fact these
things are
true.......
At 01:31 PM 4/6/99 , you wrote:
>
>The
hingend bracket that the movable part of the dam attaches to
>has jamed on
something as the motor retracted. You will probably have
>to loosen
the motor/assembly to free the bracket, then perhaps wire the
>brackets so
it doesn't jam again. This may return the aero motors to
>function
properly.
>
>Good luck,
>Ken
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
11:52:50 1999
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From:
"Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: new toy
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 12:45:10 -0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
The plastic aero skirt I got from Tallahassee mistu for
$375 including all
new pieces for it (the little plastic pieces that cover
the jacking point
and access to the fog lights.
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
When i first got my car back on the road, i was
running without a front
Aero skirt for a couple weeks while i was hunting for
a used one (new is
about $700). The bracket jammed against the car frame and
caused the active
aero to quit functioning, much the same as you have just
described. I just
un-jammed it and ran with the active aero off from that
point until i found
a skirt. My active areo works fine to this day, so this
one may have the
same problem. I think i may have to re-iderate the fact that
this car may
have seen some damage in it's life though, now knowing that the
front skirt
is missing, and one side has been re-painted, if in fact these
things are
true.......
At 01:31 PM 4/6/99 , you wrote:
>
>The
hingend bracket that the movable part of the dam attaches to
>has jamed on
something as the motor retracted. You will probably have
>to loosen
the motor/assembly to free the bracket, then perhaps wire the
>brackets so
it doesn't jam again. This may return the aero motors to
>function
properly.
>
>Good luck,
>Ken
>Its sounds as though the car has been a water car.
My friend bought a iroc
>that was in a flood and had tons of electrical
problems from the getgo but
>the car was cheap though!
In Florida, we used to call such cars
"submarines."
A hurricane would come through, drown hundreds of cars
in salt water, and
the insurance companies would total them out. Unscrupulous
used car dealers
(oops, that's a redundancy) would buy the cars, retitle
them, dry them out,
and sell them cheap. A year later, they would start to
rust, and they would
be a rusted hulk within two years.
Anyone from Florida cringes when we see a car
commercial where a car drives
through the surf. There goes another submarine.
Rich/old poop
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
12:06:12 1999
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From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:06:11
PDT
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I can't hold on to the lead much longer, as I can't
afford it, but
someone may.
Norco Mitsu in CA had one listed a couple of weeks ago
for 35,000 but
will honor a 3000GT/Stealth International membership $700
over invioce
special.
The car is a 1995 vr-4 spyder, pearl white, all the
options with less
than 20k on the odo, (I want to say 16k)
They will sell the car to one of us, (If they haven't
already!) for
30,999.
The catch to it, the title is a lemon title because the
original owner
could no longer deal with intermittant roof problems. It has
since been
fixed.
Email me directly for more info.
Please note, I heard about this car 3 weeks ago and it
may not be
avaliable any more so no one should get their hopes up. I was
being
greedy and couldn't swing a value added deal for my vr-4 to get it.
Sorry.
Eric
>From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder
>Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 11:29:38 -0700
>
>I
have 30k miles but I have a 7year 100k
warranty...
>
>Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat on a
white VR-4 spyder...
>
>They were all made in 95 some are called
96's but they're all 95's...
>
>Had a remote put on the top so it
can be raised and lowered from the
>keyless...
>
>Tires have
5k miles on em...
>
>Asking $40k would probably take $37k but not
really in any hurry to
sell...
>
>-Bill
>
>(Las
Vegas, NV)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Scott J
Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Sent:
Tuesday, April 06, 1999 7:08 AM
>Subject: Team3S:
Spyder
>
>
>> Hey all:
>>
>> A buddy of
mine made the mistake of thinking he needed to go
full-exec
>> and
sold his Spyder last year, buying a LS 400. That's right, a
>>
Lexus..... I did the same thing, and asked him that if in the future
he
>> was going to smoke that stuff, he should share with his
friends.
(Ahem)
>> Anyway, what a surprise, his wife is now
driving it and he wants
another
>> Spyder yesterday. He's
looking for a low mileage, black or white (no
>> red), '95 or '96 (he
mumbled something about "the last year," and
because
>> I
have a VR4, I don't really know enough about the Spyder's, so
forgive
>> my ignorance). So if anyone can help, please
e-mail me privately,
and
>> I'll forward the info on to him.
Please keep in mind we live up here
in
>> sunny, warm, subtropical
Milwaukee, so he'd probably prefer to find
>> something closer than New
Zealand (no offense, Kevin, Cheers!).
>>
>> Thanks, and best
regards,
>>
>> Scott
>>
___________________________________________________________________
>>
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>>
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
12:15:15 1999
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From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:15:06
PDT
Mime-Version: 1.0
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Its gone now. But they do have a black 96 VR-4
for $39,995. I have
been watching that white one for the last few
weeks too. They have been
advertising it for $31,995. I plan to
buy through them near the end of
the summer. I will have the car
shipped back to Michigan. They said it
would only cost $500 -
$700. Not a bad deal.
Chris
>From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
>Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:06:11
PDT
>
>I can't hold on to the lead much longer, as I can't afford
it, but
>someone may.
>
>Norco Mitsu in CA had one listed a
couple of weeks ago for 35,000 but
>will honor a 3000GT/Stealth
International membership $700 over invioce
>special.
>
>The
car is a 1995 vr-4 spyder, pearl white, all the options with less
>than
20k on the odo, (I want to say 16k)
>
>They will sell the car to one
of us, (If they haven't already!) for
>30,999.
>
>The catch
to it, the title is a lemon title because the original owner
>could no
longer deal with intermittant roof problems. It has since been
>fixed.
>
>Email me directly for more
info.
>
>Please note, I heard about this car 3 weeks ago and it may
not be
>avaliable any more so no one should get their hopes up. I was
being
>greedy and couldn't swing a value added deal for my vr-4 to get
it.
>Sorry.
>
>Eric
>>From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
>>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder
>>Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 11:29:38
-0700
>>
>>I have 30k miles but I have a 7year 100k
warranty...
>>
>>Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat
on a white VR-4 spyder...
>>
>>They were all made in 95 some
are called 96's but they're all 95's...
>>
>>Had a remote put
on the top so it can be raised and lowered from
the
>>keyless...
>>
>>Tires have 5k miles on
em...
>>
>>Asking $40k would probably take $37k but not really
in any hurry to
>sell...
>>
>>-Bill
>>
>>(Las Vegas,
NV)
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Scott J
Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
>>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Sent:
Tuesday, April 06, 1999 7:08 AM
>>Subject: Team3S:
Spyder
>>
>>
>>> Hey
all:
>>>
>>> A buddy of mine made the mistake of
thinking he needed to go
>full-exec
>>> and sold his Spyder
last year, buying a LS 400. That's right, a
>>>
Lexus..... I did the same thing, and asked him that if in the
future
>he
>>> was going to smoke that stuff, he should share with
his friends.
>(Ahem)
>>> Anyway, what a surprise, his
wife is now driving it and he wants
>another
>>> Spyder
yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage, black or white
(no
>>> red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the
last year," and
>because
>>> I have a VR4, I don't
really know enough about the Spyder's, so
>forgive
>>> my
ignorance). So if anyone can help, please e-mail me privately,
>and
>>> I'll forward the info on to him. Please keep
in mind we live up
here
>in
>>> sunny, warm, subtropical
Milwaukee, so he'd probably prefer to find
>>> something closer than
New Zealand (no offense, Kevin, Cheers!).
>>>
>>>
Thanks, and best regards,
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
___________________________________________________________________
>>>
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet
e-mail.
>>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
12:28:01 1999
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From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:27:51
PDT
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Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Its gone now. But they do have a black 96 VR-4
for $39,995. I have
been watching that white one for the last few
weeks too. They have been
advertising it for $31,995. I plan to
buy through them near the end of
the summer. I will have the car
shipped back to Michigan. They said it
would only cost $500 -
$700. Not a bad deal.
Chris
>From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
>Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:06:11
PDT
>
>I can't hold on to the lead much longer, as I can't afford
it, but
>someone may.
>
>Norco Mitsu in CA had one listed a
couple of weeks ago for 35,000 but
>will honor a 3000GT/Stealth
International membership $700 over invioce
>special.
>
>The
car is a 1995 vr-4 spyder, pearl white, all the options with less
>than
20k on the odo, (I want to say 16k)
>
>They will sell the car to one
of us, (If they haven't already!) for
>30,999.
>
>The catch
to it, the title is a lemon title because the original owner
>could no
longer deal with intermittant roof problems. It has since been
>fixed.
>
>Email me directly for more
info.
>
>Please note, I heard about this car 3 weeks ago and it may
not be
>avaliable any more so no one should get their hopes up. I was
being
>greedy and couldn't swing a value added deal for my vr-4 to get
it.
>Sorry.
>
>Eric
>>From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
>>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder
>>Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 11:29:38
-0700
>>
>>I have 30k miles but I have a 7year 100k
warranty...
>>
>>Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat
on a white VR-4 spyder...
>>
>>They were all made in 95 some
are called 96's but they're all 95's...
>>
>>Had a remote put
on the top so it can be raised and lowered from
the
>>keyless...
>>
>>Tires have 5k miles on
em...
>>
>>Asking $40k would probably take $37k but not really
in any hurry to
>sell...
>>
>>-Bill
>>
>>(Las Vegas,
NV)
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Scott J
Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
>>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Sent:
Tuesday, April 06, 1999 7:08 AM
>>Subject: Team3S:
Spyder
>>
>>
>>> Hey
all:
>>>
>>> A buddy of mine made the mistake of
thinking he needed to go
>full-exec
>>> and sold his Spyder
last year, buying a LS 400. That's right, a
>>>
Lexus..... I did the same thing, and asked him that if in the
future
>he
>>> was going to smoke that stuff, he should share with
his friends.
>(Ahem)
>>> Anyway, what a surprise, his
wife is now driving it and he wants
>another
>>> Spyder
yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage, black or white
(no
>>> red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the
last year," and
>because
>>> I have a VR4, I don't
really know enough about the Spyder's, so
>forgive
>>> my
ignorance). So if anyone can help, please e-mail me privately,
>and
>>> I'll forward the info on to him. Please keep
in mind we live up
here
>in
>>> sunny, warm, subtropical
Milwaukee, so he'd probably prefer to find
>>> something closer than
New Zealand (no offense, Kevin, Cheers!).
>>>
>>>
Thanks, and best regards,
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
___________________________________________________________________
>>>
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet
e-mail.
>>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
13:00:48 1999
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Received: from
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:57:38 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Center Caps
Message-ID:
<19990406.145744.-153047.9.SJC0U812@juno.com>
X-Mailer:
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hey all (again):
So I'm getting a bit frustrated trying to find some
center caps and clips
for the 17" chromies I bought off George a while
back. The weather is
actually looking like it might behave and I've got
the itch real bad to
put them on. But, I can't seem to find anyone that
can truly help me.
If you look at Curt's page (thanks a bundle Curt!)
at.....
.......the wheels in question look
like..............
"91-93, 3000GT VR4 17" (Chrome 93
only)"
........which of course are exactly the same looking
wheels as the one's
on the car now, except these are chrome. I was told
the caps and clips
are as follows by my local dealer:
Center Caps -- MB057268
Clips --
MB816557
However, Tall. Mitsu tells me these are for a
"Expo," a van. They are
saying if I can find someone with a
'93 VR4 that has these chrome wheels,
they can find the correct caps and
clips from the vin. Anyone help?
Anyone? Fry?
Bueller? Please e-mail me privately.
Thanks, and regards,
Scott
'92
VR4
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or
call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
13:54:45 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 16:51:29
-0400
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I got a better deal. A 95 spyder red with 20,000
miles, hks air filter,
borla exhaust and HKS Evc IV for $30,000 and the guy
kept his car so
spotless it looks brand new. California is the best
place to find them.
Its gone now. But they do have a black 96
VR-4 for $39,995.
I have
been watching that white one for the last
few weeks too.
They have been
advertising it for $31,995. I
plan to buy through them near
the end of
the summer. I will
have the car shipped back to Michigan.
They said it
would only
cost $500 - $700. Not a bad deal.
Chris
>From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
>Date: Tue,
06 Apr 1999 12:06:11 PDT
>
>I can't hold on to the
lead much longer, as I can't afford
it, but
>someone
may.
>
>Norco Mitsu in CA had one listed a couple of
weeks ago for
35,000 but
>will honor a 3000GT/Stealth
International membership $700
over invioce
>special.
>
>The car is a 1995 vr-4 spyder, pearl white, all the
options
with less
>than 20k on the odo, (I want to say
16k)
>
>They will sell the car to one of us, (If they
haven't
already!) for
>30,999.
>
>The
catch to it, the title is a lemon title because the
original owner
>could no longer deal with intermittant roof problems. It
has since been
>fixed.
>
>Email me directly for more
info.
>
>Please note, I heard about this car 3 weeks
ago and it may
not be
>avaliable any more so no one should get
their hopes up. I
was being
>greedy and couldn't swing a value
added deal for my vr-4 to
get it.
>Sorry.
>
>Eric
>>From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
>>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Subject: Re: Team3S: Spyder
>>Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999
11:29:38 -0700
>>
>>I have 30k miles but I have
a 7year 100k warranty...
>>
>>Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat on a white
VR-4
spyder...
>>
>>They were all made in 95
some are called 96's but they're
all 95's...
>>
>>Had a remote put on the top so it can be raised and
lowered from
the
>>keyless...
>>
>>Tires have
5k miles on em...
>>
>>Asking $40k would
probably take $37k but not really in any
hurry to
>sell...
>>
>>-Bill
>>
>>(Las Vegas, NV)
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: Scott J Cowan
<sjc0u812@juno.com>
>>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 7:08 AM
>>Subject: Team3S:
Spyder
>>
>>
>>> Hey
all:
>>>
>>> A buddy of mine made the
mistake of thinking he needed
to go
>full-exec
>>> and sold his Spyder last year, buying a LS 400.
That's
right, a
>>> Lexus..... I did the same thing,
and asked him that if
in the
future
>he
>>> was going to smoke that stuff, he should share with
his
friends.
>(Ahem)
>>> Anyway, what
a surprise, his wife is now driving it and
he wants
>another
>>> Spyder yesterday. He's looking for a
low mileage, black
or white
(no
>>> red), '95
or '96 (he mumbled something about "the last
year," and
>because
>>> I have a VR4, I don't really know enough
about the
Spyder's, so
>forgive
>>> my
ignorance). So if anyone can help, please e-mail me
privately,
>and
>>> I'll forward the info on to him.
Please keep in mind we
live up
here
>in
>>> sunny, warm, subtropical Milwaukee, so he'd probably
prefer to
find
>>> something closer than New Zealand (no offense,
Kevin,
Cheers!).
>>>
>>> Thanks, and
best regards,
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
___________________________________________________________________
>>> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free
Internet
e-mail.
>>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>Get Your Private, Free Email at
http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
14:30:17 1999
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Date:
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From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: new toy UPDATE
References: <D0E3C9D56511D211B4A700805F6F8E218411AE@its-atlantis.gwl.com>
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Over lunch I went outside and it was raining, so I
decided to clean some on
the interior. I took the trim off around the radio
to clean it. While I had
it off I noticed I could remove the panel with the
aero, cruise, and AUX
POWER. while disconnecting the wires a dime and a penny
fell out. I cleaned
and reassembled everything (minus the .11), and replaced
the fuse. The fuse
didn't blow, and I now have dash lights. I'll look at the
front spoiler
sometime when it's a little nicer outside.
The car may have been in an accident with the original
owner. The guy I
bought it from said he didn't have any accidents. He was
honest about
everything else, including an intermittent ABS light (bad rear
wheel
sensor), so I believe him. One of the wheels has a big dent in it, the
front
lip is gone, part of drivers side is repainted (this from Ken M.
who's
friend was looking at the car). I was going to look at lunch, but...
It
looks like someone hit a curb, and then grazed a pole or something
like
that. Lots of cars have been in accidents. It tracks straight, doesn't
make
any funny noises when turning, looks pretty straight (in the shade),
the
pain matches nearly perfectly, and it runs well. A lot of people here on
the
list have paid book value and found similar or worse. Unless I later
find
out it has frame damage I got a great deal.
Thanks for the replies.
> >The main things wrong with it are:
>
>1 active aero doesn't work
> >2 dash lamps don't work
> >3
interior fuse #7, headlamp relay pops as soon as I put it in (headlights
>
>work fine)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
15:17:01 1999
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From:
Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Replacement Y-Pipe rubber seal
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 10:20:00
+1200
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
The rubber seal that sits in the end of the Y-Pipe
(Air Hose A)
is looking a little under the weather and I would like to
replace
it. I have however been told that this seal can not be
purchased
seperately and can only be gotten with the comple Y-Pipe at
a
cost of US$110.
Does anyone know if this is correct? Is there a
part#?
Of course it goes without saying but it would be much
appreciated
if anyone has a spare one floating around to maybe send it over
:)
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
On another note, I have whipped up a quick little
page with
a few photos from the first ever GTO Gathering down here in
New
Zealand !
We have already made plans to have our own NZ website,
so the
above link is only a temporary measure.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
15:29:02 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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<D0E3C9D56511D211B4A700805F6F8E218411AE@its-atlantis.gwl.com>
<370A61AA.6E104570@email.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheels/Tire Combo Question
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 17:23:52
-0500
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Will Volk Challenge F-Zero wheels in 18"x9"J
with BFG g-force T/A KD 18"
265mm wide tires fit on my 1991 Stealth
TT?
>
> Over lunch I went outside and it was
raining, so I decided to clean some
on
> the interior. I took the trim
off around the radio to clean it. While I
had
> it off I noticed I
could remove the panel with the aero, cruise, and AUX
> POWER. while
disconnecting the wires a dime and a penny fell out. I
cleaned
> and
reassembled everything (minus the .11), and replaced the fuse.
The
fuse
> didn't blow, and I now have dash lights. I'll look at the
front spoiler
> sometime when it's a little nicer outside.
>
>
The car may have been in an accident with the original owner. The guy I
>
bought it from said he didn't have any accidents. He was honest about
>
everything else, including an intermittent ABS light (bad rear wheel
>
sensor), so I believe him. One of the wheels has a big dent in it,
the
front
> lip is gone, part of drivers side is repainted (this from
Ken M. who's
> friend was looking at the car). I was going to look at
lunch, but... It
> looks like someone hit a curb, and then grazed a pole
or something like
> that. Lots of cars have been in accidents. It tracks
straight, doesn't
make
> any funny noises when turning, looks pretty
straight (in the shade), the
> pain matches nearly perfectly, and it runs
well. A lot of people here on
the
> list have paid book value and found
similar or worse. Unless I later find
> out it has frame damage I got a
great deal.
>
> Thanks for the replies.
>
> > >The
main things wrong with it are:
> > >1 active aero doesn't
work
> > >2 dash lamps don't work
> > >3 interior fuse
#7, headlamp relay pops as soon as I put it in
(headlights
> >
>work fine)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
15:49:18 1999
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Date:
Tue, 06 Apr 1999 18:48:32 -0400
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Organization:
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To: Stealth List <stealth@starnet.net>,
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Subject:
Team3S: Parts For Sale
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First, I'd like to thank everyone who responded to my
original post.
Anyhow, here's a list of the remaining
items:
NEW PARTS are 25% OFF from what I
paid.
NEW PRICE SALE
PRICE
===============================================================
Stainless
Steel Goodridge Brake Lines (DOT) $270
$200 (was $240)
USED PARTS are all 30% - 60% OFF from what new ones
cost.
NEW PRICE SALE
PRICE
================================================================
Stainless
Steel EGR
Plates
$ 50 $ 35
Cusco Aluminum Rear Strut
Bar
$255 $180 (was $200)
Green 92 Dodge Stealth R/T TT, 74k
miles, $40,000 $10,000
(was
$11,000)
===========================================================================
The
following was installed in the last 2,000
miles
---------------------------------------------------
ACT 6puck racing
clutch disk and ACT 2900 lb pressure plate,
255/40ZR17 Yokohama Nexus tires,
New Transfercase,
Rebuilt 25 spline 5 speed transmission,
The following was done at the 60k miles
service:
------------------------------------------------
Timing Belt
service, Stock ECS struts, RSR springs,
Crossdrilled rotors and Metal Matrix
pads, magnecore 8.5mm wires,
VDO Boost Gage, Mobil One 15w40 summers, 0w30
winters,
almost all records available.
Thanks,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
15:55:11 1999
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From: Aso8@aol.com
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Date:
Tue, 6 Apr 1999 18:53:14 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Replacement Y-Pipe rubber
seal
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Yes. thats correct. I here Crazy Glue has worked for
somebody???
Arty 91 VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
15:55:44 1999
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Message-ID:
<006901be807f$ac8ee380$0f0a14d5@Bryan>
From: "Bryan G
Langton" <blangtonb@bigpond.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<c=NZ%a=_%p=HNZ%l=HISCOREXH03-990406222205Z-190@hiscorexh03.hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: First Gathering in New Zealand !
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 08:49:04
+1000
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Hi
you would be the closest group to me in
Australia.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
16:01:49 1999
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From:
"Bryan G Langton" <blangtonb@bigpond.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<c=NZ%a=_%p=HNZ%l=HISCOREXH03-990406222205Z-190@hiscorexh03.hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: First Gathering in New Zealand !
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 08:55:12
+1000
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hi
You are the nearest group to me in Australia..Do
you have a good supplier of
parts at a real price. I have a 1995 full spec
gto.
Got my 1994 VR4 back from the Mitsu dealer with its new
water pump, timing
belt and tensioner: $770.
For me and my warranty,
that's $100.
The mechanic said a little metal tab on my crankshaft
position sensor had
come loose and rotated 90 deg. He fixed it, but wondered
if I had noticed
any performance losses. Nope. Should I have? He says maybe
it rotated into
just the right wrong position.
Next, he pointed out a fuel pressure sending unit, and
asked if I had any
work done on the car by another dealer who might have
installed it as a
diagnostic aid (apparently, it's also a Mitsu tool). Nope.
I think the
previous owner did a little racing, because I keep finding clues
like this.
Why would you drag racers permanently install a fuel pressure
sending unit?
(I know, I know, to measure fuel pressure. But
permanently?)
A few other clues: it has an F&K air cleaner, the
oil cooler has been moved
in front of the radiator, and the top turbo pipe
has been wrapped in
aluminum foil.
It was a lease car, so most of what he put on, he took
off.
What else should I look for? I didn't find the aquarium
valve, or any
evidence of a boost controller installation, but some kind of
gauge has
been mounted inside the car (to the right of the radio, by the
passenger's
left knee -- I always thought it was a cell phone mount, but
maybe not) and
it appears that something was glued to the headliner by the
windshield
pillar on the driver's side. You have to flip down the visor to
see it. Any
of this sound suspicious?
Gee, it'd be nice to find that it already has an
uprated fuel pump, big
injectors, bigger turbos, bigger intercoolers...nah, I
ain't THAT lucky.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
.
Kevin Clark wrote:
>
> The rubber seal
that sits in the end of the Y-Pipe (Air Hose A)
> is looking a little
under the weather and I would like to replace
> it. I have however
been told that this seal can not be purchased
> seperately and can only be
gotten with the comple Y-Pipe at a
> cost of US$110.
Well, apparently the owner before me (or his mechanic)
decided to
replace the seal on my '91 y-pipe. It looks like the old
seal was cut
off, and a short piece of hose was installed with a clamp on
each end.
It has never blown off on me up to 15psi (occasionally 18 psi
before I
knew better).
You should be able to find some hose in the correct
diameter such as
described at
http://www.turbonetics.com, Catalog,
T(urbonetics) Current Catalog,
Silicone Connectors.
--
Two wrongs
don't make a right, but three lefts do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
17:39:46 1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacement Y-Pipe rubber seal
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> Yes. I hear Crazy Glue has worked for
somebody?
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
> From: Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz (Kevin
Clark)
> rubber seal in end of Y-Pipe Air Hose
A
> looks under the weather and I would like to
replace
> it. this seal comes only with complete Y-Pipe
cost $110.
Yes, I put my rubber seal back onto the plastic with
Super Glue. First, I cleaned it
with like Windex or ?brake cleaner,
some very low residue oil-remover; then I applied a
moderate (assure good
contact over most of gasket but not schmutzified) amount of Super
Glue, put
gasket ON, in proper position (so little "C" shape at end of rubber
clamps
over the edge of the plastic pipe nicely) and no problems
since!
Jack Tertadian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
18:19:19 1999
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From: "Lorne Silkes"
<vr4@cwia.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder-Best deal ever on one!
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 21:17:37
-0400
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Eric and everyone else:
This car is already sold. No, not to me
:(
>I can't hold on to the lead much longer, as I
can't afford it, but
>someone may.
>
>Norco Mitsu in CA had
one listed a couple of weeks ago for 35,000 but
>will honor a
3000GT/Stealth International membership $700 over
invioce
>special.
>
>The car is a 1995 vr-4 spyder, pearl
white, all the options with less
>than 20k on the odo, (I want to say
16k)
>
>They will sell the car to one of us, (If they haven't
already!) for
>30,999.
>
>The catch to it, the title is a
lemon title because the original owner
>could no longer deal with
intermittant roof problems. It has since been
>fixed.
>
>Email
me directly for more info.
>
>Please note, I heard about this car 3
weeks ago and it may not be
>avaliable any more so no one should get their
hopes up. I was being
>greedy and couldn't swing a value added deal for my
vr-4 to get it.
>Sorry.
>
>Eric
>>From:
"Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
>>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spyder
>>Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 11:29:38
-0700
>>
>>I have 30k miles but I have a 7year 100k
warranty...
>>
>>Borla/K&N,HKS,downpipe, and high flow cat
on a white VR-4 spyder...
>>
>>They were all made in 95 some
are called 96's but they're all 95's...
>>
>>Had a remote put
on the top so it can be raised and lowered from
the
>>keyless...
>>
>>Tires have 5k miles on
em...
>>
>>Asking $40k would probably take $37k but not really
in any hurry
to
>sell...
>>
>>-Bill
>>
>>(Las
Vegas, NV)
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From:
Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
>>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>Sent:
Tuesday, April 06, 1999 7:08 AM
>>Subject: Team3S:
Spyder
>>
>>
>>> Hey
all:
>>>
>>> A buddy of mine made the mistake of
thinking he needed to go
>full-exec
>>> and sold his Spyder
last year, buying a LS 400. That's right, a
>>>
Lexus..... I did the same thing, and asked him that if in the
future
>he
>>> was going to smoke that stuff, he should share
with his friends.
>(Ahem)
>>> Anyway, what a surprise, his
wife is now driving it and he wants
>another
>>> Spyder
yesterday. He's looking for a low mileage, black or white
(no
>>> red), '95 or '96 (he mumbled something about "the last
year," and
>because
>>> I have a VR4, I don't really know
enough about the Spyder's, so
>forgive
>>> my
ignorance). So if anyone can help, please e-mail me
privately,
>and
>>> I'll forward the info on to him.
Please keep in mind we live up here
>in
>>> sunny, warm,
subtropical Milwaukee, so he'd probably prefer to find
>>> something
closer than New Zealand (no offense, Kevin,
Cheers!).
>>>
>>> Thanks, and best
regards,
>>>
>>> Scott
>>>
___________________________________________________________________
>>>
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet
e-mail.
>>> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>>
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>>> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
18:22:58 1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Replacement Y-Pipe rubber seal
Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 18:22:24
-0700
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>> Yes. I hear Crazy Glue has worked for
somebody?
>> Arty 91 VR-4
>>>Yes, I put my rubber seal back
onto the plastic with Super Glue. First,
I cleaned it
>with like
Windex or ?brake cleaner, some very low residue oil-remover;
>Glue, in
proper position (so little "C" shape at end of rubber
clamps
>over the edge of the plastic pipe nicely) and no problems
since!
How much boost will it hold when glued?
Jim Berry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
19:55:33 1999
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From:
Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Replacement Y-Pipe rubber seal
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 14:58:31
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> Yes, I put my rubber seal back onto the plastic
with Super
> Glue.
Your great Jack !
Not sure why I had not thought of it as I use my hot
melt
glue gun alot around the car, but not in the engine bay
as it does
not like the heat :)
"CEnder (Chris Chiasson)" wrote:
> Will Volk Challenge F-Zero wheels in
18"x9"J with BFG g-force T/A KD 18"
> 265mm wide tires fit
on my 1991 Stealth TT?
Yes, if you get the wheels with an offset of
+40mm
and the tires in a 35% profile. I just put these on
my
friend's '94 VR4. Same wheels, but he used Bridge-
stone Potenza
S0-2's in 265/35-18.
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
21:36:34 1999
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Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999
00:43:49 -0400
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Mark <pagan@siscom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: tranny - saga
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Greetings!
Some of you may remember my post for help about a
obvious problem with my
tranny and/or transfer case. I thought the
problem was my clutch going
south ('93 RT TT) but after installing a RPS
Turbo Clutch (Roger, that GP
was just a few weeks late :/ ) the problem
persisted. As it turns out, the
spline from the tranny to the transfer
case was stripped. Fortunately my
car is still under its extended
warranty so I got a new tranny and transfer
case for $50.
I just picked it up this evening and as I began to
drive it I noticed that
it seemed that the shift pattern was some how shifted
to the right. I
don't really know how else to describe it except to say
that when in
neutral, if I take the shifter and pull it all the way to the
left it is in
the middle of the shift boot. If I put the car in 5th
gear the shifter is
in the far right corner of the shift boot. What
gives? Is there some way
to adjust this with the shift linkage?
Is it specific to the tranny that
the shop put in? It is quite annoying
and very difficult to find 3rd gear.
So.. apparently my saga is not quite over. Any
clues into this problem
would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Mark
'93 RT TT
BTW - mod list: K&N Air
Charger, XBC, ATR Downpipe, Test Pipe, Custom 3"
Cat back, gutted pre
cats, autometer gauges, momo shift knob, razo pedal
covers, white gauge faces
... blah .. :)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Mark,
I believe they just installed the shifter
backwards. All you have to do
is remove the shift knob (by turning it
counter clock wise) then remove
the leather boot (by pulling it upwards) then
remove one nut (14 mm it's
on the driver's side) and the cotter pin at the
very bottom of the
shifter. Remove the shifter (be careful not to loose
any bushings) then
rotate it 180 degrees and reinstall it.
NOTE:
this instructions are for the 5 speed trannys, I believe the same
goes for
the 6 speed ones.
But if I were you, I would just take it back to the
shop and have them
do it. Hopefully that's all!
Good luck,
Jose
Mark wrote:
>
> Greetings!
>
><SNIP>
> I just picked it up this evening and as I began to
drive it I noticed that
> it seemed that the shift pattern was some how
shifted to the right. I
> don't really know how else to describe it
except to say that when in
> neutral, if I take the shifter and pull it
all the way to the left it is in
> the middle of the shift boot. If
I put the car in 5th gear the shifter is
> in the far right corner of the
shift boot. What gives? Is there some way
> to adjust this
with the shift linkage? Is it specific to the tranny that
> the shop
put in? It is quite annoying and very difficult to find 3rd gear.
>
> So.. apparently my saga is not quite over. Any clues into this
problem
> would be greatly appreciated.
><SNIP>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 6
22:47:26 1999
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 22:49:42 -0800
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheels/Tire Combo Question -Reply
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** High Priority **
What's the approx. dollar value for this wheel/tire
combo?
james berry wrote:
> >>>I put my rubber seal back onto the
plastic with Super Glue. First,
> cleaned
> >with Windex or
?brake cleaner/low residue oil-remover;
> >Glue, in proper position (so
little "C" shape at end of rubber clamps
> >over the edge of
the plastic pipe nicely) no problems since!
>
> How much boost
will it hold when glued?
> Jim Berry
>
It holds 'bout 'leventy-hunnert pounds of
boost!
I had Auxiliary Preloaded Retention Devices (APRD, tm) (bungee
cords :) pulling the
pipe toward/onto the throttlebody on my '93 at same time
after that fix so can't say for
sure. It sure seems very tight on there
even without. One improvement is to get
"T-bolt" clamps
rather than the lower-duty "worm gear" clamps we now have.
T-bolts will
tighten better/hold more. I did not have T-bolt
clamps.
Jack Tertadian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
06:55:18 1999
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From: "Chris S."
<shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: APEX Super AFC
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 06:55:13 PDT
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I was just curious. How does one tune in the
Super AFC? Is there a
good A/F gauge out there? I just picked one
up and would like to get
a few pointers before I install it in a few
months. Also would 560cc
injectors, fuel pump, and the AFC help with
stock turbos? Or would it
be best to install them with the 15G's?
I have the AFC & injectors
right now.
Thanks,
Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
07:25:12 1999
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Date:
Wed, 07 Apr 1999 16:26:42 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: APEX Super AFC
References: <19990407135513.97010.qmail@hotmail.com>
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> I was just curious. How does one tune in the
Super AFC? Is there a
> good A/F gauge out there?
The question is if our O2 sensors are good enough for a
proper tune in !
Unfortunately the stock O2 sensors are switchting within a
very small hysteresis
and you finally do not know how much rich or how much
lean you are. The best
thing would be to get a wide range O2 sensor and hoock
it up to an A/F meter
(any is ok then) or just use a voltmeter.
> a few pointers before I install it in a few
months. Also would 560cc
> injectors, fuel pump, and the AFC help
with stock turbos?
Yes, they do. Although your stock turbos will not hold
boost up to the redline
the midrange torque and power is great.
> be best to install them with the 15G's? I
have the AFC & injectors
> right now.
Do this stepwise as the car needs the fuel to prevent
detonation and to avoid
fuel cut. With this you should be able to crank up
boost to the 18psi region or
even more when properly tuned in. Unfortunately
the AFC is rpm-related and does
not look for any boost or load of the car.
But for 560cc it should work fine for
your adjustments. Don't forget the fuel
pump as it runs out of steam pretty soon
too !
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
08:24:36 1999
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Date:
Wed, 7 Apr 1999 10:18:46 -0500
Subject: Team3S: CD Changer Question (probably
a dumb one...)
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Hello all:
I have an Alpine 5915Z six disc changer mounted in my
trunk, with the
control unit un by the a/c and heat controls. This is a
FM frequency
unit, requiring me to tune to 88.3 for it's use. Does
anyone know if
this unit has the ability to become a "plug in"
version, for example, so
I can plug it directly into the CD plug on the front
of my radio? The
unit sounds good now, but....
Any help would be most appreciated. Please
respond privately.
Thanks, and regards,
Scott
'92
VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Date:
Wed, 07 Apr 1999 20:09:55 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Weight Stripping
References: <008501be7f9c$745bc6b0$0a1ea8c0@mattjnt.fallon.com>
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Jason and Cristy Barnhart
wrote:
>
> Is noone else aware that Adam Weltz ran 12.32
(or very near), supposeldy with nothing
> more than intake, complete
exhaust, and a boost controller. Also Mike Mahaffey ran
> 12.12@112.5 with stock turbos. I believe
virtually nothing was done to cut weight in
> these cars. It aint
all that difficult guys.
I believe both of these times were with bigger turbos
and/or fuel mods.
Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> track in
under 12 seconds. Can you even get 350 HP out of the stock turbos,
>
or do they run out of steam too early to hit that high of a peak? I
don't
Yes, the stock turbos are good for just over 400 SAE HP
in a healthy
setup (ie- 1.00 bar limit - see my web page for dyno results)
and 450+
SAE HP if boost is cranked up too high (ie- 1.3+ bar - see Roger's
web
page for rebuild info).
> think the power is so much the issue, but
finding 600 pounds of extra weight
> is going to be the tough
part... That's a lot of weight to be ripping out!
> I think you
could find 200 pounds easy enough, maybe 300.
>
> A RWD VR4 I would
love to see! :-)
Why not just start with an LS-1 Camaro SS and go from
there? :-|
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
11:21:39 1999
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From: "Chris S."
<shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Pulleys
Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 11:21:34
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Has anyone installed Unorthodox Racing underdrive
pulleys? What kind
of HP & Torque gains can be expected?
Would it be a more worthy of an
investment to upgrade the fuel system and
turbos first? Or would
there be a reasonable gain with stock
turbos? Any adverse effects?
Thanks,
Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Date:
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Subject: Team3S: Antenna Help
Needed
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OK I finally bought the antenna mast and took out the
old one. part of
the old plastic belt has broken into the antenna
hole/motor. I finally
stripped the rearend of the plastic trim and now
have access to the
motor. now how do I get the plastic out? I
tried sitting the motor
sideways and turning on/off the radio but the plastic
does not come
out,
help!
___________________________________________________________________
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don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Weight Stripping
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 14:11:06
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> > A RWD VR4 I would love to see!
:-)
> Why not just start with an LS-1 Camaro SS and go from there?
:-|
Because the VR4 looks a lot better and isn't as
expensive to upgrade
initially? :-)
-Matt
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Antenna Help Needed
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I had the same problem and if I recall, I had to take
the cover off the
motor and remove the broken pieces.
Good Luck!
Mark
'91RT/TT
OK I finally bought the antenna mast and took out
the old one. part of
the old plastic belt has broken into the antenna
hole/motor. I finally
stripped the rearend of the plastic trim and now
have access to the
motor. now how do I get the plastic out? I
tried sitting the motor
sideways and turning on/off the radio but the plastic
does not come
out,
help!
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S:
Updated Wheel/Tire combo for sale -Forwarded
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This is a MIME message. If you are reading this text,
you may want to
consider changing to a mail reader or gateway that
understands how to
properly handle MIME multipart messages.
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The tires can be sold seperatley to this guy...thus i
will sell the 17"
chromes for $350 a wheel or best offer. Still would
prefer entire
package...
Recap: Stock 17" chrome wheels wrapped with
Firestone 255/40/17
SZ50's w/less then 500 VERY easy miles. Chromes have some
curb
rash, not visible over 7ft, not visible at night. Still shine great and
get all
the looks.
Asking $1750 for the whole deal, $1200 for the wheels
seperate, $700
for the tires seperate. New would be $3000ish
Gavin
'94 Black
VR-4
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From: "Bill Hipsher" <bhipsher@pjmorganrealestate.com>
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WallisG@mwaa.com
Subject: Re:
Wheel/Tire combo for sale
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If someone just wants the wheels or If you should want
to just sell the tire
I would purchase the SZ50's. Let me
know.
>I'm selling my stock 17" chrome wheels +
brand new Firestone SZ50's
>25//40/17 tires.
>
>The tires have
around 500 very easy highway miles on them. The
>chrome wheels have
minimal curb rash, not noticeable from 5ft or so +
>can't tell at all at
night.
>
>Asking $1750 for the whole deal. I'm going to buy some
ultra lights ...
>(sniff sniff....by by chrome
4ever)
>
>Gavin
>'94 Black VR-4
>
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need TMO Datalogger but who sells it ??
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During the time I was in the States I tried to get the
TMO Datalogger for my 93
car. I got some information but finally no dealer in
the States sent me an
appropriate answer. I know that Buschur racing has it
on his list but I did not
got an answer upon my emails during the last month.
The same happend to other
dealers and I'm not sure if the guys just don't
want to make any business over
the Web. I feel a little pissed about no
answers and I'm therefore looking for
another source. Please note that I must
be able to buy the thing with credit
card as all other ways are just too
expensive and that's why I can't buy it
directly from TMO.
Thanks for any input,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From:
"Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need TMO Datalogger but who sells it ??
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999
15:14:44 -0600
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Roger;
There web site is www.tmo.com , but it doesn't seem to be up and
running
right now. You may want to try a little later.
>During the time I was in the States I tried to
get the TMO Datalogger for
my 93
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From:
"Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
"Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Fw: Team3S: Need TMO Datalogger but who sells it ??
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999
15:18:16 -0600
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I guess what I meant to say is TMO could have a list a
vendors who would
take credit card. You might want to contact
them.
>Roger;
>
>There web site is www.tmo.com , but it doesn't seem to be up and
running
>right now. You may want to try a little
later.
>
>
>Jeffrey
>92 RT/Turbo
>www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>
>
>>During
the time I was in the States I tried to get the TMO Datalogger for
>my
93
>
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Date:
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From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
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Re: Team3S: Parts For Sale
References: <370A8F40.5E683377@engin.umich.edu>
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Jose,
I hate acting cheap, but I
can get these same brake lines made up in Germany for
$175. So if you
can match that price I will buy them. I assume they will work an a
"95
Stealth RT TT.
Thanks,
Mike
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
josesini wrote:
> First, I'd like to thank everyone who responded to
my original post.
>
> Anyhow, here's a list of the remaining
items:
>
> NEW PARTS are 25% OFF from what I
paid.
>
NEW PRICE SALE PRICE
>
===============================================================
>
Stainless Steel Goodridge Brake Lines (DOT)
$270 $200 (was $240)
>
>
================================================================
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Date:
Wed, 7 Apr 1999 17:42:16 EDT
Subject: Team3S: 10 mm plug wires
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Does anyone know where i can get a good deal on some 10
mm plug wires for my
91 R/T TT?..............
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE8123.AB47CB00
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charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
If you want to buy with a credit card, you'll need to
call Buschur =
Racing, that's why I bought mine through them. They have them
in stock =
and ship the same day.
----------
From: R.G.[SMTP:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Wednesday, April 07, 1999 4:50 PM
To: Team3S List
Subject:
Team3S: Need TMO Datalogger but who sells it ??
During the time I was in the States I tried to get the
TMO Datalogger =
for my 93
car. I got some information but finally no
dealer in the States sent me =
an
appropriate answer. I know that Buschur
racing has it on his list but I =
did not
got an answer upon my emails
during the last month
------
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------
=_NextPart_000_01BE8123.AB47CB00--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: Super White or Blue headlights
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I have a 93 Stealth ES and I am considering trying to
get the Hella
conversion kit so I can get super white or blue halogen
headlights. Has
anyone else done this? What's the cost? Do
the super white or blue
headlights make a difference? Also, I was
considering doing the snake
eyes trick. Would these super white lights
be too hot for that?
Leland Gray
93 Stealth ES
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From:
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<370BDB1C.BDAB8E5@erols.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Super White or Blue headlights
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 17:41:48
-0500
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I'm installing a Hella conversion kit on my Stealth (as
soon as the check
clears...). I'm told it's very easy, so I'll let you
know how it goes.
As for the snake-eyes question, I haven't done that
little mod yet, so can't
comment.
Hope this helps.
For every action, there is an equal and opposite
criticism.
> I have a 93 Stealth ES and I am considering
trying to get the Hella
> conversion kit so I can get super white or blue
halogen headlights. Has
[snip]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 15:54:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Super White or Blue headlights
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I converted my '92 sealed lamps to hella open units
with PIAA SUPER
WHITE H4 bulbs. Total parts cost is about $130. Ther are alot
brighter
than the stockers.. gota love PIAA...
As for the blue lights, I
would recommend PIAA Plasmicblue bulbs,
rather than the cheap colored
ones..
George
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Leland
Gray <grayda@erols.com>
> To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 1999 5:24 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Super White or
Blue headlights
>
>
> > I have a 93 Stealth ES and I am
considering trying
> to get the Hella
> > conversion kit so I can
get super white or blue
> halogen headlights. Has
>
[snip]
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheels/Tire Combo Question -Reply
References: <s70a8e59.003@corp.ultratech.com>
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Dan Jett wrote:
> ** High Priority **
>
> What's the
approx. dollar value for this wheel/tire combo?
The Ray's Challenges in 18x9 should run about
$2000-2200
for the set, depending on who you buy them from. The
BF
Goodrich G-Force T/A KD's run for about $300 a pop, so
your grand total
is about 3400 clams. Have fun.
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
16:41:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 10 mm plug wires
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Your really better off using the 8.5mm Magnecors then
the 10mm. They don't
even fit in the looms.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 4/7/99 5:52:15 PM Eastern Daylight
Time, RTTURB0@AOL.COM
writes:
> I believe both of these times were with bigger
turbos and/or fuel mods.
Actually, both were done with stock
turbos. I'm not sure about Mike's run as far as fuel
mods are
concerned, but Adam was claiming complete exhaust, intake, and a boost
controller
only. I'm not even sure fuel mods would be a great help with
stock turbos, they seem to have
a problem staying above 1 atmosphere for long
in 1st and 2nd and only want to hold about .8
to redline. Besides,
isn't the point whether it was stock turbos or not? Check out
http://www.alteredatmosphere/projects.htm,
and I'm sure Adam would tell us what he ran if we
ask.
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
18:51:20 1999
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From:
"Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket parts
Date: Wed, 7 Apr
1999 20:52:26 -0400
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Could someone please recommend a few good stores that
sell aftermarket parts
for a 92 stealth r/t tt- I am interested in K&N
FIPK, brembo rotors, a good
recommendation for pads (to go with the brembo's)
- and an aftermarket
downpipe.
Thank you.
Eddie
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Team3S: Alamo Intercooler Pipe Kit
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I noticed that Alamo has started to produce a hard pipe
kit for the
3000/Stealths which fit onto the Alamo intercoolers. I also
noticed the
huge price tag of $899 for it. Love those Alamo
Prices.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Alamo Intercooler Pipe
Kit
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I wonder if it's as complete as the HKS kit. The HKS
one had a total of 8
much larger pipes. I recall Alamo has a few pipes but
not a complete kit.
Maybe they improved?
Its interesting that neither HKS
or Alamo include a larger "Y" pipe with the
Hard pipe kit.
It
really should come with a kit as expensive as the pipes kits are. My first
car didn't cost what these kits cost. hehe Just my 2hp
Arty 91
VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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It might include the Y-pipe now, the picture on the
website does show a
picture with the the Alamo Y-pipe included. It does have
this sorta sick
Red/Orange powder coating, maybe it's just my screen.
Hmm...
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From: "Paul T.
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 21:39:20
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> I recently gutted all 3 of my cats, I won't
begin to detail what a
>pain it was, The ECU acts no
>differently,
we did reset it for this.
What did you do to "reset" it?
> On the plus side my car definitely seemed to
pull harder, and it
>sounds quite nasty now. It rumbles a bit at
idle and low revs. It
>absolutely screams at high RPMs, especially
through underpasses :) It
>will backfire mildly when it bounces off
the rev limiter, and sometimes
>after letting off the gas or between
shifting.
>> Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Hi Paul;
To reset your ECU all you do is disconnect your Battery
positive for 10 or 15 minutes,
then reconnect. Be sure and do this when
working on your car (ie: installing new
componenets).
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S:
Concequences of Cat Removal
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If the car is constantly "Learning" as I've
been told it does, why do you
need to unplug the battery and reset the
ECU?
The ECU acts no
> >differently, we did
reset it for this.
>
> What did you do to "reset"
it?
-Bill
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Bill wrote:
> If the car is constantly "Learning" as
I've been told it does, why do you
> need to unplug the battery and reset
the ECU?
>
Couple of reasons I can think of ..the first being
saftey, as outlined in the manual (no
point in harming it) and the second is
to speed up the learning process so it does not
have to resort data: it
starts with a clean uncluttered baseline.
Best
Darc
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From: "Doran Nurmi" <dnurmi@bresnanlink.net>
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket parts
Date: Thu, 8
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Eddie,
I'd try www.archerracing.com at 218-727-4806. I
just received a set of
Powerslot rotors and my K&K FIPK is on the way.
They sold me many quality
mods for my Talon in the past and I'm sure they can
get just about anything.
Thanks,
Doran
Could someone please recommend a few good stores
that sell aftermarket parts
for a 92 stealth r/t tt- I am interested in
K&N FIPK, brembo rotors, a good
recommendation for pads (to go with the
brembo's) - and an aftermarket
downpipe.
Thank you.
Eddie
I can't sing high enough praises for the quality
service I have received
from Chien at Nexus Motorsports over the last year or
more.
Be patient as he is a busy guy, which further speaks to
the fact that he has
other loyal customers as well.
I have KVR carbon/kevlar pads and KVR rotors on a '94
VR4. I have been very
happy with both. Stopping power and
consistancy is markedly improved over
stock. Expect more brake dust if
you move from from street-oriented to
performance oriented pads. Some
are better than others in that regard. I
am sure others can comment on
different pads.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Could
someone please recommend a few good stores that sell
> aftermarket
parts
> for a 92 stealth r/t tt- I am interested in K&N FIPK,
brembo
> rotors, a good
> recommendation for pads (to go with the
brembo's) - and an aftermarket
> downpipe.
>
> Thank
you.
> Eddie
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 7
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Eddie,
Not sure where you're located, but why
not turn to Mike Mahaffey owner
of Altered Atmosphere Motorsports in
Maryland. Not only is he one hell
of a guy, but he owns the world's
fastest Stealth, so I'm sure he can
help ya out. He can be reached at
(301)294-2700, or you can take a look
at his webpage at http://www.alteredatmosphere.com
. He recently had a
guy come all the way up from Tenessee to work on
his Stealth.
Hope this helps,
Jason
Eddie wrote:
>
> Could someone please
recommend a few good stores that sell aftermarket parts
> for a 92 stealth
r/t tt- I am interested in K&N FIPK, brembo rotors, a good
>
recommendation for pads (to go with the brembo's) - and an aftermarket
>
downpipe.
>
> Thank you.
> Eddie
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
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> Powerslot rotors and my K&K FIPK is on the
way.
Doran, good luck with the rotors ! Let us know how long
it takes until they get
warped. What pads are you using with them
?
>The BF
>Goodrich G-Force T/A KD's run for
about $300 a pop..
I hope you realize those G-Force tires come shaved,
which is why they win
all the tire tests.
You'll only get about 157 street
miles out of them.
If I'm wrong, please tell me, because that's why I'm
not buying them.
Unfortunately, I can't give you any recommendation at
the moment. Why ? Almost
all shops just DO NOT ANSWER to my emails or only
after resending the email with
high priority three times. Buschur, Extreme,
Nexus (Chien is very helpful if he
answers) and even Mike (Alt.Atm.) seem to
be too busy for the Web customers
(that's why I still do not have my new
BOV). The only ones that respond promptly
are Matt and Frank from
Accellerated Accessoires but their prices are higher
unless you find two more
people who want to buy the same (little GP).
I finally went over to my F-Body sources
(Camaro/Firebird) as their prices are
better (AutoMeter, Paxton and fuel
parts) and if I know what I want they can get
it for me. Of course they have
problems when trying to get jap parts (Boost
controller, BOV).
As calling around in the US from Europe is too
expensive (and off in time) I
need the email feature and the ability to buy
the parts by credit card.
Hope you're more of luck than me.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
01:06:14 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 01:08:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket parts
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Roger,
Chien is still there but it seems like
he stopped
doing emails and updating his web site. I talked to
him 2
days ago and found out that it seems NO ONE
carries G-Techs instock any more.
--- Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch> wrote:
>
Unfortunately, I can't give you any recommendation
> at the moment. Why ?
Almost
> all shops just DO NOT ANSWER to my emails or only
> after
resending the email with
> high priority three times. Buschur, Extreme,
Nexus
> (Chien is very helpful if he
> answers) and even Mike
(Alt.Atm.) seem to be too
> busy for the Web customers
> (that's why
I still do not have my new BOV). The
> only ones that respond
promptly
> are Matt and Frank from Accellerated Accessoires but
>
their prices are higher
> unless you find two more people who want to buy
the
> same (little GP).
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
01:11:10 1999
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Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 01:13:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Super White or Blue headlights
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What's the part numbers for the Hella
open-units???
Did you have to splice in new connectors and
a
relay???
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> it seems NO ONE
>carries G-Techs
instock any more.
So go directly to the source:
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
03:04:08 1999
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Message-ID: <370C7F75.11EF89FD@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Thu, 08 Apr 1999 12:05:41 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend a good store ... G-Techs
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Tesla did not sold the thing to individuals the last
time I was in contact with
them (and then never answered again). But the V8
dealers I'm getting my parts
from do have it too and it's maybe worth to ask
them if anyoine of you is
interested. Let me know and I send the links this
evening.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
03:20:19 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store ... G-Techs
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999
12:16:48 +0200
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Hi Roger,
Or if you want to buy in Europe you can get it from http://www.dalhems.com (I think it's down
right now or maybe it's just something wrong with my browser) and remember that
their prices include 25% swedish tax that you don't have to pay.
Roger wrote:
>Tesla did not sold the thing to
individuals the last time I was in contact with
>them (and then never
answered again).
Don't over look the local performance shops where you
live. I just
purchased a set of KYB struts and shocks and a K&N
Aircharger from a
local speed shop for the exact price I found on the web AND
I don't have
to pay shipping. Now of the 6 or 7 shops I called 5-6 were
way over the
web prices, but then I hit this one with very competitive prices
and
next day availability.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
04:17:29 1999
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Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 07:17:20 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alamo Intercooler Pipe
Kit
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If that price you quoted included the "Y"
pipe with the intercooler pipes
then I think its a pretty good deal. Kinda
unusual to find a good deal with
Alamo? I can't use them myself but I'd like
to see the kit. Can you please
relist the Web site ?
Thanks Arty 91
VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
07:05:27 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store ... G-Techs
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999
07:06:20 -0700
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I oredered mine directly from Tesla within the last
year. I talked to
Nikola the inventor guy directly. Apparently
they do a booming direct sales
business at the same price as their retailers,
which is a great deal for
Tesla.
Maybe someone was giving you the run around. You
can even order diretly
from the web using credit card as I
recall.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
> >carries G-Techs instock any more.
> > So go directly to the
source:
> > http://www.gtechpro.com/
>
>
Tesla did not sold the thing to individuals the last time I was
> in
contact with
> them (and then never answered again). But the V8 dealers
I'm
> getting my parts
> from do have it too and it's maybe worth to
ask them if anyoine of you is
> interested. Let me know and I send the
links this evening.
>
> Regards,
> Roger
> '93'3000GT
TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
07:11:42 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Alamo Intercooler Pipe Kit
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 07:12:36
-0700
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The text on the web site states that the Y-pipe is
included. The $899 is
not really a horrible price considering you get
more than with the HKS kit.
What blows me away is the $2995 they want for the
intercoolers...yeah right.
Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
07:27:15 1999
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From: "Chris S."
<shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Intercooler & Pipe Kit
Date: Thu, 08 Apr 1999 07:27:20
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When should you upgrade your intercoolers and or
pipes? Are the
aftermarket intercoolers alot more efficiant than
stock? Would the
pipe kit alone allow you to crank up the boost with
the proper fuel
modifications? Would it be best to save up and buy the
intercooler(s)
and pipes together? Someone please give me the basic run
down...
Thanks,
Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
08:32:37 1999
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From:
"Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket parts
Date: Thu, 8
Apr 1999 08:31:12 -0700
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I've been dealing with Accelerated Accessories
also recently. I've
got a fairly sized order of goodies due from them today.
Their prices are
competitive and they won't sell you something you don't
need. They promised
to deliver all my parts by today and I'm crossing my
fingers for this. If
they come through with their commitments, I'll have high
praise for them
indeed.
Saturday I'll be in Huntington Beach to do some
dyno runs on the
car. I'll have all my components installed by then and I'm
interested in
what kind of power she'll be producing.
This promises to be a very cool weekend
indeed.
Dave Allison
Unfortunately, I can't give you any recommendation
at the moment. Why ?
Almost
all shops just DO NOT ANSWER to my emails or
only after resending the email
with
high priority three times. Buschur,
Extreme, Nexus (Chien is very helpful if
he
answers) and even Mike
(Alt.Atm.) seem to be too busy for the Web customers
(that's why I still do
not have my new BOV). The only ones that respond
promptly
are Matt and
Frank from Accellerated Accessoires but their prices are higher
unless you
find two more people who want to buy the same (little GP).
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
08:37:22 1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket parts
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<LNBBIILBOFJFDBMJFJGHCEHBCAAA.dnurmi@bresnanlink.net>
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For those of you typing in hyper links for automotive
supplies, links, etc. please
preface with http:// before the rest of
the address commencing with www..... This will
assist anyone not using
Microsoft (Outlook Express, Internet Explorer, etc). Otherwise
it' s a
short remedial exercise for them to duplicate what you thought did not
have to
be duplicated.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
09:01:58 1999
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Date:
Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:58:58 EDT
Subject: Team3S: BF tires
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The $300 ones are G force T/A KD's. The shaved ones are
G force T/A R1's and
go for around $170 a pop. Look at tirerack.com the have
the pic's on both. I
just got my R1's yesterday. Can't wait to mount them up
and "test" them
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
09:07:48 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:07:44
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> > If the car is constantly "Learning"
as I've been told it does,
> > why do you need to unplug the battery
and reset the ECU?
> Couple of reasons I can think of ..the first being
saftey, as
> outlined in the manual (no point in harming it) and the
second
> is to speed up the learning process so it does not have
to
> resort data: it starts with a clean uncluttered
baseline.
I'd rather leave it plugged in unless you are doing
electrical work. I
think it would be preferable that it not have to
relearn EVERYTHING, just
the changes in the sensor calibrations that are
affected by the
modifications made. Why have the ECU relearn all the
fuel trim tables for
part throttle and idle when most likely the
modifications won't affect part
throttle as much as WOT, which comes from a
static table anyway?
Uncluttered baseline means the computer knows nothing
about the specific car
and has to figure out all of it again...
-Matt
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
09:19:05 1999
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To:
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Subject:
Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 11:18:54 -0500
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How can I disable the fuel pump?
I was trying to check the compression prior to putting
the plenum back on
and I forgot that the fuel pump and injectors still
operate. i.e. fuel
being dumped into the cylinders when
cranking.
Is there a fuse to disable the fuel pump so that fuel
is not pumped into the
cylinders?
Thanks,
Mark
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 10:27:51
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Mark;
The manual recommends that you open the fuel pump
access panel in the trunk
and unplug the connector to the fuel
pump.
>How can I disable the fuel
pump?
>
<snip>
>
>Mark
>'91RT/TT
>
Frank Chen wrote:
>
> What's the part
numbers for the Hella open-units???
> Did you have to splice in new
connectors and a
> relay???
I think the size is 165mm. Yes you have to splice
on a new connector.
Here is an included post with a little more
info.
------ INCLUDE -----------
> did I hear first
Gen. headlight upgrade please elaborate more on this thanks
1st gen cars have small rectanglular headlights.
These can be
upgraded to Euro standard Hella headlamps that accept H-4
bulbs.
They have a better reflector, clear glass, and produce a beam with
a
sharp horizontal cutoff on low beam. Also, the right side of the
beam
angles up so you can read signs. Thus, you can aim them so the
beam
cuts off at the height of someones bumper. Then when you run
brighter
bulbs, you won't be offending the oncoming traffic.. H-4
bulbs
come in a variety of wattages and a few colors too.
I currently have Hella headlamps, clear German 80/100
watt (or 85/100
??)
H-4 bulbs, and clear 100 watt H-3 bulbs in the stock
foglamps of my '91
VR4. I have no problems with fuses blowing or wires
melting. I tried
Imparts
Korean blue H-4 bulbs and H-3 bulbs
but had trouble with reliability
and
the law -- they are illegal.
The Hella lamps are also for off road use
only
since they are not sealed
beam, but I've been using these for over 10
years on several cars with no
problem. We don't have vehicle
inspections
in Calif.
though.
H-4 bulbs are not a direct replacement however.
The stock connector
looks like this | _ / while the H-4 connector looks like
| _ | (hope I
don't
have that reversed :)). Also the wires are
switched. The Hellas come
with a short wire converter that also won't
work with the stock
connector.
You have to cut off the stock headlight
connector and splice on the
correct connector of the H-4 convertor. There is
a wiring diagram
and it is really not that difficult for the
do-it-yourselfer.
The H-3 bulbs also came with the wrong connector.
It is easy though
to cut off the spade connector and crimp on a bullet
connector.
I bought everything from Imparts at http://www.imparts.com. The
Hella
headlamps were about $80 a pair. The H-4 bulbs for about $14 a
pair.
The H-3 bulbs for my foglights were about $7 for the pair.The
Hellas
come
with 55/65 watt bulbs that I keep as spares.
-----------------
--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Matt Jannusch wrote:
> I'd rather leave it plugged in unless you are
doing electrical work. I
> think it would be preferable that it not
have to relearn EVERYTHING, just
> the changes in the sensor calibrations
that are affected by the
> modifications made. Why have the ECU
relearn all the fuel trim tables for
> part throttle and idle when most
likely the modifications won't affect part
> throttle as much as WOT,
which comes from a static table anyway?
> Uncluttered baseline means the
computer knows nothing about the specific car
> and has to figure out all
of it again...
>
Dunno...guess it's a matter of preference. Most of the
modes done initially (K&N, BC,
etc) require disconnecting the battery
positive for the saftey reason (electrical) which
you quote. I t takes the
car no time to relearn in these situations. Myself, I am always
erring on the
side caution (better safe than sorry), but if an individual finds
this
troublesome, then fill your boots. In my case, I beleive in ruling out
possible
conflicting data by disconnecting. It shouldn't conflict, and the
ECU should do what
it's supposed to do, but then my own PC shouldn't get it's
rare glitches either.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
13:17:11 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
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It's not often that I ask for help but today I got
pretty nervous when driving
home :
This evening I was stuck in a 15 miles slow speed
traffic and I was only able to
drive in 1st and 2nd gear. As I moved 2 meters
more I pressed the clutch and the
rpm came down to 850 while the car still
rolled slowly. Then the rpm immediatly
dropped and I got the christmas tree
on my dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
switched into second and dumped the
clutch, the car came up to live and I reved
it up a little. Again, the rpm
came down and died again. What the /&%&. And this
in traffic ? I did
the dumping again and it came back to live. AFter this, I
switched on A/C to
prevent the rpms falling down and this kept it alive.
After driving trough a tunnel at very low speed (I felt
my heart beating very
fast, .. just don't die in the tunnel) I was able to
increase speed. Then around
90mph I felt power is going away, immediatly
pressed the clutch and the rpm fell
down pretty quick. I released the clutch
again and it came back to live. I then
switched backt to third and floored
it. No problem reaching 1.02bars and it
pulled hard. I then pressed the
clutch quickly and the rpms fell down under 800
rpm where it almost died. I
tried to repeat this to find out wht is going on but
I was able to drive home
without any problems.
For sure I'm preparing now the Camaro to be able to get
to work tomorrow without
any problems but what the heck is going on here ? I
remember to had this problem
last year when the battery died but the battery
power looks pretty good now.
Luckly the weekend comes closer and I can go
over this but I don't know where to
start looking. I feel like I've opened
the hood the first time in my live :).
Any help/ideas are very welcome.
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
13:38:33 1999
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From:
"Eddie" <stealth3@superservers.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 15:40:11
-0400
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I have the same problem sometimes.. Let me describe
when it happens to me.
Start the car, drive for approx. 1 hour. - Then let the
car sit for 1-2
hours. - I then re-start the car and it wants to idle at
about 250 rpm. It
then will rev to 800, 250, 800, 250, 800,250 (about 1/2
second between each
change) -- Then I give it some gas, and drive
off.
Everything is fine when I drive it for 20 seconds at
3000rpm in 2nd gear. -
Then idle is normal.
I was going to mention this problem to the mitsu
dealership last time I had
my oil changed, but what a pain to try to describe
such and thing, and it
doesn't always do it.
Eddie
>It's not often that I ask for help but today I
got pretty nervous when
driving
>home :
>
>This evening I
was stuck in a 15 miles slow speed traffic and I was only
able
to
>drive in 1st and 2nd gear. As I moved 2 meters more I pressed the
clutch
and the
>rpm came down to 850 while the car still rolled slowly.
Then the rpm
immediatly
>dropped and I got the christmas tree on my
dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
>switched into second and dumped the
clutch, the car came up to live and I
reved
>it up a little. Again, the
rpm came down and died again. What the /&%&. And
this
>in
traffic ? I did the dumping again and it came back to live. AFter
this,
I
>switched on A/C to prevent the rpms falling down and this kept
it alive.
>
>After driving trough a tunnel at very low speed (I felt
my heart beating
very
>fast, .. just don't die in the tunnel) I was
able to increase speed. Then
around
>90mph I felt power is going away,
immediatly pressed the clutch and the rpm
fell
>down pretty quick. I
released the clutch again and it came back to live. I
then
>switched
backt to third and floored it. No problem reaching 1.02bars and it
>pulled
hard. I then pressed the clutch quickly and the rpms fell down
under
800
>rpm where it almost died. I tried to repeat this to find out
wht is going
on but
>I was able to drive home without any
problems.
>
>For sure I'm preparing now the Camaro to be able to get
to work tomorrow
without
>any problems but what the heck is going on
here ? I remember to had this
problem
>last year when the battery died
but the battery power looks pretty good
now.
>Luckly the weekend comes
closer and I can go over this but I don't know
where to
>start looking.
I feel like I've opened the hood the first time in my
live
:).
>
>Any help/ideas are very
welcome.
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>
>-----------------------
>Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
>93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>K&N
FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
>ATR
DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided
brake
lines,
>Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
>
>Check out:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
At 10:14 PM 4/8/99 +0200, you wrote:
>It's not
often that I ask for help but today I got pretty nervous
when
driving
>home :
Roger: I have no idea what your problem is.
But if you run out of possiblities, consider that
perhaps one of your
electronic gadgets has taken an electrical hit (a surge
or transient,
perhaps from a nearby lightning strike).
If no other solution arises from our brethren on the
list, I would apply
the last-in-first-out technique: i.e.,
what was the
LAST change or modification you made?
Undo it.
See if it
works.
Good luck.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
13:55:52 1999
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From: dave <monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu>
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--------------------------------------------------------------------
It's
not often that I ask for help but today I got pretty nervous when
driving
home :
This evening I was stuck in a 15 miles slow speed
traffic and I was only able t
o
drive in 1st and 2nd gear. As I moved 2
meters more I pressed the clutch and th
e
rpm came down to 850 while the
car still rolled slowly. Then the rpm immediatly
dropped and I got the
christmas tree on my dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
switched into second and
dumped the clutch, the car came up to live and I reved
it up a little. Again,
the rpm came down and died again. What the /&%&. And thi
s
in
traffic ? I did the dumping again and it came back to live. AFter this,
I
switched on A/C to prevent the rpms falling down and this kept it
alive.
----------
for what it's worth, on my VW GTI, there is an ISV or
Idle Stabilizer Valve
which,
you guessed it, stabilizes the idle!
:) I had the exact same think happening
with
it.. the solution
was to simply unhook it, clean it out thoroughly with carb
cleaner and wait
for it to dry out.. good as new! I don't know if there's
a
similar
part on the VR4s, but I remember people talking about an
idle-stepper.. don't
know if it's related tho..
Dave
91 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
14:42:26 1999
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From: "Bill Davis"
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:41:19
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Roger,
It sounds like some sort of fuel feed
problem, or fuel
quality, like maybe moisture in the gas tank.
By the way ,I changed my plugs, fuel filter, and
cleaned my
K&N, and the car immediately was running smoother.
I
checked the gap on the old plugs, .047 - .048 in., so they
were pretty
toasted. The plugs I took out were Nippon Denso's,
not NGK's.
After all that I took it in for tire rotation, and oil
change(free).
On my way out to the highway from the dealer I was going
up
a hill so I jumped on it. Everything was going great, when all of a
sudden, I
had nothing, no power, everytime I gave it gas it
wanted to die, and I could
hear my BOV louder than ever.
I pulled over, and checked the Y pipe, and
everything else
I had played around with while changing the plugs, but
everything
was on good and tight. I was able to drive the car as long
as I
did not boost it, so I limped back to the dealer with my
tail between my
legs, since I had just gotten done saying how
proud I was of myself for
changing the plugs, and getting everything
back together right. I thought I
had blown a turbo or something
even worse.
The mechanic drove the car, ( like a maniac ), jumped
out and said
yep it'syour BOV. Turns out I blew off the soft line on my left
intercooler.
He put it back on, and tightened the rest of them down real
good.
The damn thing must have been leaking since I had the car, cause
now
when I jump on it, boost goes up much quicker.
Nevertheless, scared the crap out of me, having my car
almost die,
in fairly fast traffic.
Hope yours is no more serious than mine
was.
Bill Davis 95 VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Re: Team3S: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
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Dave may have a point with the idle stabilizer, but I
swear this
incident and one that was brought up not long ago sound like
vapor
lock. Driving slow (engine heating up) maybe feul is vaporizing
in the
rail?? The other one was after driving a while, shutting it off and
then
it won't start until it sits for ~20min. Again max heat is right
after
you shut it off, feul vaporizes in rail and it won't start. This
was a
very well known problem with feul injected aircraft engines.
Might be this, then again...?????????
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Gremlins in the Car ?!!
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 16:49:59
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> This evening I was stuck in a 15 miles slow speed
traffic and I
> was only able to drive in 1st and 2nd gear. As I moved 2
meters
> more I pressed the clutch and the rpm came down to 850 while
the
> car still rolled slowly. Then the rpm immediatly dropped and
I
> got the christmas tree on my dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
>
switched into second and dumped the clutch, the car came up to
> live and
I reved it up a little. Again, the rpm came down and
> died again. What
the /&%&. And this in traffic ? I did the
> dumping again and it
came back to live. AFter this, I
> switched on A/C to prevent the
rpms falling down and this
> kept it alive.
Not sure if the TT/VR4 cars are the same, but this
exactly describes a
common problem on the DSM cars. The ISC (idle speed
controller) motor on
the throttle body controls a bypass tube which allows
air to flow through
when the throttle is closed. A stepper motor
controls how much air is
allowed to bypass through. The motor has a
certain range that it is
effective within, and the adjustable part is called
the "BISS" (base idle
set screw). Adjusting that screw makes
a more hardcore adjustment to the
bypass area, which the ISC then makes
smaller adjustments to.
I'd take a look at the shop manual and see what the
exact procedure is for
setting the base idle and check that out first.
I'd suspect you just ground
the timing test connector and a pin on the
scan-tool test connector and then
manually set the idle for 750 RPM or
whatever the VR4 spec is.
Your symptoms are identical to those my Eclipse had a
week ago and adjusting
the BISS solved it completely. You'll probably
want to clean the throttle
body real good while you are in there in case some
of the passages are
gunked up.
Hope that helps...
-Matt
'93 Eclipse GSX
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Please recommend ... PowerSlot
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Put PowerSlots on my '92 VR-4 with Axxis Metal Pads -
they are recommended by PowerSlot. I got the rotors for about $180 - $200
at Ultra Performance in Phoenix, AZ. They have been on now for about 3
weeks and stopping power is real good. About $75 cheaper than the Stillen
Cross-Drilleds at the same place.
--
On Thu, 08 Apr 1999 09:12:53 Roger Gerl
wrote:
>> Powerslot rotors and my K&K FIPK is on the
way.
>
>Doran, good luck with the rotors ! Let us know how long it
takes until they get
>warped. What pads are you using with them
?
>
>Thanks,
>Roger, Switzerland
>93'3000GT TT (killed
two pairs of aftermarket rotors within a month)
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Team3S: Re: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
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Eddie wrote:
> I have the same problem sometimes.. Let me
describe when it happens to me.
>
> Start the car, drive for approx.
1 hour. - Then let the car sit for 1-2
> hours. - I then re-start the car
and it wants to idle at about 250 rpm. It
> then will rev to 800, 250,
800, 250, 800,250 (about 1/2 second between each
> change) -- Then I give
it some gas, and drive off. [snip]
Ask the dealership to check the IAC.
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
Roger...
At least one other person has offered my
diagnosis...vapor lock. Virtually
all cars I've owned experience this if
they've been run hot, let sit for 15
to 20 minutes prior to starting again. I
used to think it was a "feature" of
carburetors, but I've had the
same experience with fuel injected systems.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Thursday, April 08, 1999 1:15 PM
To: Team3S List
Subject: Team3S: Team3S :
Gremlins in the Car ?!!
It's not often that I ask for help but today I got
pretty nervous when
driving
home :
This evening I was stuck in a 15 miles slow speed
traffic and I was only
able to
drive in 1st and 2nd gear. As I moved 2
meters more I pressed the clutch and
the
rpm came down to 850 while the
car still rolled slowly. Then the rpm
immediatly
dropped and I got the
christmas tree on my dashboard. Huh ??? I immediatly
switched into second and
dumped the clutch, the car came up to live and I
reved
it up a little.
Again, the rpm came down and died again. What the /&%&.
And
this
in traffic ? I did the dumping again and it came back to live.
AFter this, I
switched on A/C to prevent the rpms falling down and this kept
it alive.
<snip>
Any help/ideas are very welcome.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Re: Team3S: Re: Team3S : Gremlins in the Car ?!!
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Eddie wrote:
> What does the IAC stand for?
The layman's term for this is Idle Speed Control,
just
like that other guy was talking about in his post, but
for some
reason they call it the IAC. I'm not sure
exactly what it stands for,
but it is basically the same
thing as the ISC on DSM cars. It controls
the amount
of Air that that stabilizes your idle. My friend is
having
the exact same problem as your car, and he has had
it diagnosed as
the IAC. The part is about $250.
Good luck,
--Errin
Saturday I'll be in Huntington Beach to do some
dyno runs on the
car. I'll have all my components installed by then and I'm
interested in
what kind of power she'll be producing.
This promises to be a very cool weekend
indeed.
Dave Allison
======================
Dave...
Please post the result of your dyno tests, along with
your impressions of
the company. Also, to put it all in perspective, it would
be nice to have a
list of all your mods.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
Date: Thu, 8
Apr 1999 15:44:41 -0700
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<snip>
Besides, isn't the point whether it was stock turbos or
not?
Jason
==========================
Jason...
I wouldn't think so. The weight of the car, the mods,
the ambient
conditions, the track conditions, the tires, AND the driver are
all factors.
I thought we were talking about how to influence the car's
condition (by
removing weight). Affecting the ambient and track condition
will be
difficult. Given that we (hypothetically) could take two EXACT
duplicate
vehicles on the same track, the final factor is the driver. I hope
we all
keep in mind that some people are better drivers than others (or are
willing
to take greater risks with their vehicles than others).
Bottom line (for me) is that if we take 600 pounds off
a VR4, it is no
longer the same car as a stock VR4, whether it has stock
turbos or not. If
you look at Jack's times, you'll see he ran SIGNIFICANTLY
different (a 1/2
second faster) 1/4 mile runs with the same turbos, just by
adding nitrous.
What I'm always trying to do, along with improving my
own driving skills, is
to learn from others experiences in the optimum mods
and configuration of
those mods.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Please recommend
... PowerSlot
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 18:11:48 -0400
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I
> Powerslot rotors
Doran, good luck with the rotors ! Let us know how long
it takes until they
get
warped. What pads are you using with them
?
[Brian Danley] I've had my powerslot rotors for
30K and haven't warped
them yet. They seem to hold up pretty
well. I use axis pads and have had
real good luck ..but still need
Stainless Steel Brake Lines :( ... one day
Brian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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RE: Team3S: Please recommend a good store ... G-Techs
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JC Whittney carries the G-tech Pro now
also.
Tesla did not sold the thing to individuals the last
time I was in contact with
them (and then never answered again). But the V8
dealers I'm getting my parts
from do have it too and it's maybe worth to ask
them if anyoine of you is
interested. Let me know and I send the links this
evening.
We just installed one on my friends '93 VR-4.
Have not noticed any real
difference yet, but we havn't got the fuel computer
dialed in yet so I'll
let you know. However, in my opinion you would be
wiser to save the
money and put it towards turbos and a fuel system.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
16:54:05 1999
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Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 18:49:34 -0500
Subject: Team3S: 2nd Gear Syncro Fix
Works!
Message-ID: <19990409.184936.12030.1.PEARLVR42C@juno.com>
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Just my little story to everybody here with bad
syncros-KEEP THE FAITH!
I lucked out and got 1 brand new 2nd gear syncro, 1
slightly used 2nd
gear syncro, and one new 2nd gear. Had a race shop an
hour and a half
away do the rebuild. Everything went smooth and took
very little
time(over easter weekend). Got the car back with a great
1-2 shift and a
new RPS Turbo Clutch(wanted A.C.T. but everyone is
out). And I still got
the NEW 2nd gear syncro as an extra. My
point, don't believe the rumors
of welded shut cases or it being impossible
to rebuild. It can be done,
the guy at the shop that did mine said it
was very easy and he is quite
familliar with our tranny's anyways so it made
it that much smoother.
Now let's pray for someone to come out with
parts.
Sorry to babble but I'm soooooo damn happy that I got rid of that
crunch
I've been living with for the last 6 months.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
At 11:58 AM 4/8/99 EDT, you wrote:
>The $300 ones
are G force T/A KD's. The shaved ones are G force T/A R1's and
>go for
around $170 a pop.
Originally, they were only available shaved. Guess too
many people complained.
I'd pay $170 for full tread, but $300 is too
much.
Guess Yoko 008s are next, soon as I wear down the
Michelins.
Right now, my Michelins are at racing depth.
So, where are you going with them G Forces? A little
track time, maybe?
How 'bout Topeka next weekend?
After I installed air ducts to my brakes, I turned the
steering wheel
rapidly from side to side to make sure the ducts would stay in
place as the
wheels went lock to lock. I did this with the engine off because
the car
was on jackstands, no wheels were on, and everything turned
freely.
Afterward, I had a nice puddle of power steering fluid
under the car.
Argh! What did I do? Anything serious? It doesn't seem
to be leaking any
more.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
19:25:46 1999
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Re: Team3S: Power steering fluid
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Rich;
I must have missed a post....how and where did you run
your cooling ducts?
As far as the fluid goes...sounds like more gremlins.
Sit up tonight with a flashlight
and revolver and do' em in when seen
:-) Be quick, they're fast!
Actually, if you haven't moved the car yet, look for
the likely trajectory/drop line,
and follow it up/back. There has to be a
telltale wet spot somewhere.
Best ( of luck)
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
19:26:14 1999
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If it suddenly won't hold the idle without stalling,
could be a vacuum
leak. My mom's camry had the same problem, and it turned
out to be the
intake tube between the airbox and throttle body. With a TT you
have
tons of hoses/clamps/places where they can come loose.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 8
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From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
Date: Thu, 8 Apr 1999 23:03:23
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On my Eclipse there is a fuse under the hood labeled
"MPI." I think the
3000GT has the same fuse, but I'm too lazy
to go outside and look. Check
for that fuse and if you find it, pull
it. Then you can do a compression
test or whatever without fuel
spraying everywhere.
jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi
Eclipse GSX
>How can I disable the fuel
pump?
>
>I was trying to check the compression prior to putting the
plenum back on
>and I forgot that the fuel pump and injectors still
operate. i.e. fuel
>being dumped into the cylinders when
cranking.
>
>Is there a fuse to disable the fuel pump so that fuel
is not pumped
into
the
>cylinders?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark
>'91RT/TT
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial
Support
>Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
>Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
00:09:18 1999
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
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> [Brian Danley] I've had my powerslot rotors
for 30K and haven't warped
> them yet. They seem to hold up pretty
well. I use axis pads and have had
> real good luck ..but still need
Stainless Steel Brake Lines :( ... one day
Good to hear that they improved quality. I got my
dimpled rotors that are made
by the same manufacturer as the powerslots but
instead of slotting they dimpled
them and where cinc washed.
Unfortunately they got heavily warped after the second
160+mph braking.
Fortunately, they took them back and gave me my money back.
At this time the
quality was really not good.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
00:17:01 1999
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Re: Team3S: Power steering fluid
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> After I installed air ducts to my brakes, I turned
the steering wheel
> rapidly from side to side
> Afterward, I had a
nice puddle of power steering fluid under the car.
You produced too much pressure from turning the
steering wheel and the fluid was
pushed out from the canister. Drive the car
a little and check the level. I
think you'll be fine then but make sure to
clean everything because the fluid is
aggressive.
>Rich;
>
>I must have missed a
post....how and where did you run your cooling ducts?
Nope, you haven't missed anything. I just finished it
today.
I bought a couple of cheap scoops from J.C. Whitney,
and mounted them over
the two 4 x 7 openings in the front valence panel -- on
both sides of the
front air dam. They stick down about 1.5 inches, and have a
1x4 in.
rectangular opening.
Then I got some 2 in. rubber flexible
industrial duct ($6.50 per foot!!).
I removed the shield from the back of the
disk brakes.
Then I ran the hose from the back of the scoop to immediately
behind the
front calipers. To get to the scoop, I just sorta jammed the
hose into the
lower right corner opening in the front fender well, which
leads directly
to the scoop (very convenient - like somebody designed it that
way).
In most cars, you could point the hose at the center of
the rotor, but we
have this big 'ol halfshaft assembly there. So the only
real opening is at
the calipers.
I have a clamp around the end of the hose, and
the clamp is tiewrapped to
the brake line fitting to keep it in place when
the wheel turns. I don't
know if it will stay there or if the tiewrap will
slip up the hose. I'll
watch it closely. What I'd really like to do is attach
it to the top
caliper mounting bolt - perhaps by finding a washer with a tab
on it to put
under the caliper bolt. That way, I could also tie off the ABS
sensor line,
which is hanging loose at the moment. Do such washers
exist?
I dunno how the system works yet. Tell ya after Topeka
next weekend.
>Actually, if you haven't moved the car yet, look
for the likely
trajectory/drop line,
>and follow it up/back. There has
to be a telltale wet spot somewhere.
>
>You produced too much pressure from turning
the steering wheel and the
fluid was
>pushed out from the canister.
Drive the car a little and check the level. I
>think you'll be fine then
but make sure to clean everything because the
fluid
is
>aggressive.
>
Whew! That's a relief! Thanks,
Roger.
Chris,
A statement was made that with stock
turbos 11s might be out of reach
without weight stripping. I made the
point of how close Mike and Adam
have came to 11s with STOCK turbos. A
statement was then made that
someone didn't feel they were stock turbos, and
another statement made
about fuel system upgrades... They were stock
turbos, and whether the
fuel system was upgraded or not has nothing to do
with whether they're
stock turbos. I'm very aware of what factors come
into play when
racing. I feel that removing 600 bls is not necessary to
reach 11s,
this has been my statement from the beginning.
Jason
> Jason...
>
> I wouldn't think so. The
weight of the car, the mods, the ambient
> conditions, the track
conditions, the tires, AND the driver are all factors.
> I thought we were
talking about how to influence the car's condition (by
> removing weight).
Affecting the ambient and track condition will be
> difficult. Given that
we (hypothetically) could take two EXACT duplicate
> vehicles on the same
track, the final factor is the driver. I hope we all
> keep in mind that
some people are better drivers than others (or are willing
> to take
greater risks with their vehicles than others).
>
> Bottom line
(for me) is that if we take 600 pounds off a VR4, it is no
> longer the
same car as a stock VR4, whether it has stock turbos or not. If
> you look
at Jack's times, you'll see he ran SIGNIFICANTLY different (a 1/2
> second
faster) 1/4 mile runs with the same turbos, just by adding nitrous.
>
> What I'm always trying to do, along with improving my own driving
skills, is
> to learn from others experiences in the optimum mods and
configuration of
> those mods.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
05:15:34 1999
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Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 08:13:42 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Who makes a crank for our
cars?
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
stealth@starnet.net
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I need a few suggestions on a reliable, hopefully
experienced company
that can make a stroked crank for our cars? June Racing
prices are just
unreasonable. If anyone has had one made what was the approx
cost?
Thanks for the help.
Arty 91 VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
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Jeff wrote:
> On my Eclipse there is a fuse under the hood
labeled "MPI." I think the
> 3000GT has the same fuse, but
I'm too lazy to go outside and look. Check
> for that fuse and if
you find it, pull it. Then you can do a compression
> test or
whatever without fuel spraying everywhere.
>
Can anyone confirm this on the 3S for sure? I t sure
would be easier than the standard "
open the fuel pump access in the
trunk and disconnect it there" described earlier?
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
Date: Fri, 9
Apr 1999 07:33:08 -0700
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Chris,
A statement was made that with stock
turbos 11s might be out of reach
without weight stripping. I made the
point of how close Mike and Adam
have came to 11s with STOCK turbos. A
statement was then made that
someone didn't feel they were stock turbos, and
another statement made
about fuel system upgrades... They were stock
turbos, and whether the
fuel system was upgraded or not has nothing to do
with whether they're
stock turbos. I'm very aware of what factors come
into play when
racing. I feel that removing 600 bls is not necessary to
reach 11s,
this has been my statement from the beginning.
Jason
======================
Jason...
OK, thanks for the clarification. Sometimes these
threads confuse me, as I'm
not sure what's being proposed. I'd love to hear
that someone has been
successful in reaching the 11s with stock turbos and
what mods/techniques
they used to get there.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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I've just installed a Greddy
Profec 'A' in my car and I was
wondering if
it was 'safe' to leave it set
for a max of 1.0 bar of boost all the time
or should I reduce that number by
some amount. I'd LOVE to leave it
there cuz' it makes such a HUGE difference in
performance
but I don't want to risk damaging my
Baby. Also, does anyone have
any
programming recommendations
for it? I've just gone through
the basic initial
phase but would love to hear any 'tips and
tricks' you
folks might
have.
Many thanks to all the people who
have helped me with this,
especially;
Chris Winkley, Mike at http://www.alteredatmosphere.com
(great prices on
stuff
for our cars by the way), and David
Jimenez. Thanks guys!!!
Randy
94 VR4
(new and improved!!!)
Greddy Profec
'A'
Modified stock airbox with K&N
filtercharger
Soon-to-have Magnecor's, NGK's
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I've just installed a Greddy
Profec 'A' in my car and I was
wondering if
it was 'safe' to leave it set
for a max of 1.0 bar of boost all the time
or should I reduce that number by
some amount. I'd LOVE to leave it
there cuz' it makes such a HUGE difference in
performance
but I don't want to risk damaging my
Baby. Also, does anyone have
any
programming recommendations
for it? I've just gone through
the basic initial
phase but would love to hear any 'tips and
tricks' you
folks might
have.
Many thanks to all the people who
have helped me with this,
especially;
Chris Winkley, Mike at http://www.alteredatmosphere.com
(great prices on
stuff
for our cars by the way), and David
Jimenez. Thanks guys!!!
Randy
94 VR4
(new and improved!!!)
Greddy Profec
'A'
Modified stock airbox with K&N
filtercharger
Soon-to-have Magnecor's, NGK's
I am having problems with the AC unit in my car, and
i'm considering
removing the belt that drives the compressor, but I see in
the manual
that there is also a pulley for a generator. Is this the
alternator? If
not, what are the possible consequenses of removing it. If I
do remove
it, I'll have a place for a supercharger, as the cost to replace
the
broken parts of the AC and a supercharger kit are around the
same.
Thanks for the help.
I've just installed a Greddy Profec 'A' in my car and I
was wondering if it
was 'safe' to leave it set for a max of 1.0 bar of boost
all the time or
should I reduce that number by some amount. I'd LOVE to leave
it there cuz'
it makes such a HUGE difference in performance but I don't want
to risk
damaging my Baby. Also, does anyone have any programming
recommendations for
it? I've just gone through the basic initial phase but
would love to hear
any 'tips and tricks' you folks might
have.
<snip>
Randy
94 VR4
(new and improved!!!)
Greddy Profec
'A'
Modified stock airbox with K&N
filtercharger
Soon-to-have Magnecor's,
NGK's
================
Randy...
I've kept mine at 1.0 bar for over a year with no
negative effects (other
than slamming my head into the headrest). Everyone
seems to agree that 15
psi is "safe" to run on a regular basis. The
real issue is the OTB (over
take boost) setting. I have mine set at 1.2 bar
(about 18 psi), but have
only used it a couple times, due to the risks
associated with detonation.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dyno testing
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 08:27:24
-0700
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I'll be there all day Saturday and in
anticipation of a bored/pissed
off girlfriend, I've already bought tickets to
Disneyland on Sunday! :)
I'm also bringing my digital camera, so there
will be tons of
pictures of the installation processes, tuning, and dyno
runs. I'm spending
nearly $1000 on labor and dyno time above and beyond the
cost of the parts
that are being installed. Expensive weekend, but I'm quite
excited to spend
the $ on something this informative.
I'll give you a synopsis and some pictures to
look at come Monday I
hope!
Seeya!
Dave
Saturday I'll be in Huntington Beach to do some
dyno runs on the
car. I'll have all my components installed by then and I'm
interested in
what kind of power she'll be producing.
This promises to be a very cool weekend
indeed.
Dave Allison
======================
Dave...
Please post the result of your dyno tests, along with
your impressions of
the company. Also, to put it all in perspective, it would
be nice to have a
list of all your mods.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Michael:
You are right, that belt also runs the alternator, or
as the
book calls it, the generator.
Rich
---------------------------------
Michael
Booker wrote:
>
> I am having problems with the AC unit in my car,
and i'm considering
> removing the belt that drives the compressor, but I
see in the manual
> that there is also a pulley for a generator. Is this
the alternator?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
09:03:35 1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
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I am the original poster of this thread.
The nay-saying has just caused a well of
motivation, I am now determined to
run 11's with stock turbo's. Yesterday I bought a
trailer for towing
the "Project Car". I am now utterly determined to run 11's
with
stock turbos. There is not a doubt in my mind it is
possible. If we have run 12's 11's
are just one step away. Maybe
NOS? who knows. But think of the triumph it would be for
Team
3S 11's for under $3000 Total cost for an 11 second
monster...$14,000 that would
be triumph for all of our cars. Even
if I could only get low 12's that would be
killer. I am aiming for a
$4500 max, and trying to keep it uner $3000 anybody have any
ideas for a list
of mods? Here is my list
EBC
AFC
Fuel Pump
560cc Injectors
K&N
Aircharger or AAM Filter
Thermo Wrap...everything the entire IC piping
setup
NOS?
Weight Stuff
New fold-up plexigalss headlights with
cold air intake
http://thebusinesscampus.com/headlight.jpg
New
Seats 8 lbs each
Remove all Interior I can get away
with
Remove:
Cruise Control
AC
unit
Windhsield Wipers and Motors
All sound deadenanig material
Some questions on the following...
Running with
_NO_ hood?
Window Glass replacements?? The glass could remove some
wight if there was a
lightweight inexpensive alternative. Some type of
plastic that would just keep wind
from comng through. too much
drag? What do they use on NASCAR, it's is somekind of
flexible
plastic?
Chris Winkley wrote:
> Chris,
> A statement was made
that with stock turbos 11s might be out of reach
> without weight
stripping. I made the point of how close Mike and Adam
> have came
to 11s with STOCK turbos. A statement was then made that
>
-snip-
Dave Allison wrote:
>
> I'll be there all day
Saturday and in
So what are the directions to this place in case anyone
wants to come
watch ;)?
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
09:10:56 1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend a good store for aftermarket parts
Date: Fri, 9
Apr 1999 12:02:54 -0400
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Eddie,
We sell the Brembo rotors that are both cross drilled
and slotted for $300 a
pair (front). I have semi-metalic pads in stock
that work great with these
rotors for $60 a pair(front). We sell the
K&N FIPK for $155. And we sell
the Alamo Downpipe (best on the
market) for $475. Let me know.
>Could someone please recommend a few good
stores that sell aftermarket
parts
>for a 92 stealth r/t tt- I am
interested in K&N FIPK, brembo rotors, a good
>recommendation for pads
(to go with the brembo's) - and an
aftermarket
>downpipe.
>
>Thank
you.
>Eddie
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
Date: Fri, 9
Apr 1999 11:17:45 -0500
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> Yesterday I bought a trailer for towing the
"Project Car".
> I am now utterly determined to run 11's with
stock turbos.
> There is not a doubt in my mind it is possible. If
we
> have run 12's 11's are just one step away. Maybe NOS?
who
> knows. But think of the triumph it would be for Team
3S
> 11's for under $3000 Total cost for an 11 second monster..
>
$14,000 that would be triumph for all of our cars. Even
> if I
could only get low 12's that would be killer. I am
> aiming for a
$4500 max, and trying to keep it uner $3000
> anybody have any ideas for a
list of mods? Here is my list
If you are talking NOS, then you aren't really getting
it
into the 11's because of the stock turbos. NOS should get
you
easily into the 11's, but that's sorta cheating... If
the point is to
make the stock turbos go elevens, then do
it with the turbos, and not some
other horsepower trick.
If you are going to do it with NOS anyway, then
don't
bother stripping the car. You'll make 11's no
problem.
I doubt that those headlights would be street
legal...
> Some questions on the following...
> Running
with _NO_ hood?
One of the DSM guys tried it and times worsened due to
the very poor
aerodynamics.
> Window Glass replacements?? The glass could
remove some
> wight if there was a lightweight inexpensive
alternative.
> Some type of plastic that would just keep wind from
comng
> through. too much drag? What do they use on
NASCAR,
> it's is somekind of flexible plastic?
Lexan.
-Matt
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
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Re: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
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OK we'll leave out the NOS but everything else
remains.
Hi Andrew,
Lose the switchable exhaust and it's motor. You
could probably remove
everything behind the downpipe. If the tracks
you'll go to won't allow
open exhaust, you might have to put on a
muffler. Gut the precats
(free) and consider a new downpipe too ($350),
although these may not
help too much with stock turbos.
Also lose the active aero motors, antenna, consider the
removing the
rear wing.
I'm sure there is more weight to lose...
Ken
Andrew Brilliant wrote:
>
> I am the
original poster of this thread. The nay-saying has just caused a
well of
> motivation, I am now determined to run 11's with stock
turbo's. Yesterday I bought a
> trailer for towing the "Project
Car". I am now utterly determined to run 11's with
> stock
turbos. There is not a doubt in my mind it is possible. If we have
run 12's 11's
> are just one step away. Maybe NOS? who knows.
But think of the triumph it would be for
> Team 3S 11's for under
$3000 Total cost for an 11 second monster...$14,000 that would
> be
triumph for all of our cars. Even if I could only get low 12's that would
be
> killer. I am aiming for a $4500 max, and trying to keep it uner
$3000 anybody have any
> ideas for a list of mods? Here is my list
>
> EBC
> AFC
> Fuel Pump
> 560cc Injectors
>
K&N Aircharger or AAM Filter
> Thermo Wrap...everything the entire IC
piping setup
> NOS?
>
> Weight Stuff
> New fold-up
plexigalss headlights with cold air intake
> http://thebusinesscampus.com/headlight.jpg
>
New Seats 8 lbs each
> Remove all Interior I can get away with
>
Remove:
> Cruise
Control
> AC unit
>
Windhsield Wipers and Motors
> All sound
deadenanig material
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three
lefts do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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Date:
Fri, 09 Apr 1999 18:50:45 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
References:
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If you look in the manual under compression testing
(unfortunately I don't have mine with
me) it tells you to disconnect
the crank position sensor (I think that is what it is
called). On the
black plastic timing belt covers there are two plugs attached just behind
the
engine mount, underneath the rear intercooler pipe, between the wheel well and
the water
pump. They are about in the center of the engine. The
crank position sensor is the front
plug. Just disconnect that one and
it disables both the spark plug firing and the fuel
pump.
Sorry my description sucks,
Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
> Jeff wrote:
>
> > On my Eclipse
there is a fuse under the hood labeled "MPI." I think
the
> > 3000GT has the same fuse, but I'm too lazy to go outside and
look. Check
> > for that fuse and if you find it, pull it.
Then you can do a compression
> > test or whatever without fuel
spraying everywhere.
> >
>
> Can anyone confirm this on the
3S for sure? I t sure would be easier than the standard "
> open the
fuel pump access in the trunk and disconnect it there" described
earlier?
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Dave,
If you can I would
recommend installing a thermocouple temperature gauge in the
intake piping
before the throttle body. We did this in Zurich and it was really
helpful
in finding out when our cars were overheating. The dyno fan we
used was not at all
efficient for our cars and you could see that the
intercoolers were almost ineffective.
One thing I have not had a chance to do
is see just how inefficient they were. Since
intake temperature is so
important it is worth it to take the extra time to set it up.
We used a
standard type-K thermocouple attached to a thermocouple temperature gauge
that
recorded the max and min temps. For instance, if your intake temp
is 200 deg F on the
dyno, but only 150 deg F on the road, you actually have a
lot more power on the road
than was recorded on the dyno. We installed
the thermocouple by removing one of the
intercooler intake pipes from the
Y-pipe and running the thermocouple about 6-10 inches
into the Y-pipe (just
keep it out of the throttle body). Since the thermocouple is
nothing
more than a thin wire, it was possible to just install the intercooler pipe
over
the wire.
This equipment can be expensive ($200-300), but I would
think a fully equipped shop
would have something like this for testing
purposes.
Hope this helps,
Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
>
I'm also bringing my digital camera, so there will be tons of
> pictures
of the installation processes, tuning, and dyno runs. I'm spending
>
nearly $1000 on labor and dyno time above and beyond the cost of the
parts
> that are being installed. Expensive weekend, but I'm quite excited
to spend
> the $ on something this
informative.
>
>
I'll give you a synopsis and some pictures to look at come Monday I
>
hope!
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
10:09:43 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
Date: Fri, 9
Apr 1999 12:05:41 -0500
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Good luck Andrew, can't wait to hear how you do.
After you have
accomplished 11's with the stock turbos we'll challenge
you to set new
records with big turbos.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-----Original Message-----
>I am the original
poster of this thread. The nay-saying has just caused a
well
of
>motivation, I am now determined to run 11's with stock
turbo's.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Another VR-4 going to Germany
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 12:06:38
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Look out Jim and Mike, another modded VR-4 is on it's
way over to Germany.
One of our local dealerships just got done preparing it
for a guy who just
got transferred to Germany - sorry don't know
where.
The car is a '98 black VR-4 with only 1800 miles. The mods
include HKS dual
tip exhaust, HKS intake and EVC-IV.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
10:16:02 1999
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dyno testing
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 10:14:28
-0700
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Great idea!
My preliminary impressions of the dyno shop is
that they will be
doing everything in their power to get me in and out of
their shop as
quickly as possible. I don't think they like to work on
Saturdays. It'll be
tough, but I'll try and insist they go the extra step to
measure the intake
charge temperature while on the dyno.
I myself am pretty curious as to the efficiency
of the stock
intercoolers. People on this list like to talk about dumping
more fuel into
the combustion chamber to cool the fuel mixture to prevent
detonation, yet
nobody ever seems to speak about the obvious alternative:
more efficient
intercoolers. I'me sure there is room for improvement over the
stock
intercoolers, I just want to know some hard numbers on what the
stock
intercoolers are doing to the intake charge.
I have one of those LCD temperature gauges that
mounts inside your
house, to measure inside temp, and has a long wire that
runs thru the
windowsill to record the outside temerature. It runs on
batteries. I know
this may sound cheesy, but perhaps I could tape the unit to
the inside
bumper of the car to measure the pre-intercooled temp and run the
wire into
the y-pipe to measure the intake charge. My only concern would be
if the
sensor could handle the temperatures that would be thrown at it.
You
mentioned a possible 200F temp in the y-pipe. Is this from experience?
I
wonder if the sensor would go this high, since it was designed for
mesuring
weather temps. The cool thing about this unit is that it costs $9,
is very
small, and has a peak temp memory. I could ideally take the car for a
drive
about town with some boosting situations and review the results later.
It
stands to reason that the outside temp high would correspond with the
intake
charge high temp.
Any thoughts?
Dave Allison
Dave,
If you can I would
recommend installing a thermocouple temperature gauge
in the
intake piping
before the throttle body. We did this in Zurich and it was
really
helpful
in finding out when our cars were overheating. The dyno fan we
used was not
at all
efficient for our cars and you could see that the
intercoolers were almost
ineffective.
One thing I have not had a chance to
do is see just how inefficient they
were. Since
intake temperature
is so important it is worth it to take the extra time to
set it up.
We
used a standard type-K thermocouple attached to a thermocouple
temperature
gauge that
recorded the max and min temps. For instance, if your intake
temp is 200
deg F on the
dyno, but only 150 deg F on the road, you
actually have a lot more power on
the road
than was recorded on the
dyno. We installed the thermocouple by removing
one of
the
intercooler intake pipes from the Y-pipe and running the thermocouple
about
6-10 inches
into the Y-pipe (just keep it out of the throttle
body). Since the
thermocouple is
nothing more than a thin wire, it
was possible to just install the
intercooler pipe over
the
wire.
This equipment can be expensive ($200-300), but I would
think a fully
equipped shop
would have something like this for testing
purposes.
Hope this helps,
Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
>
I'm also bringing my digital camera, so there will be tons of
> pictures
of the installation processes, tuning, and dyno runs. I'm
spending
>
nearly $1000 on labor and dyno time above and beyond the cost of the
parts
> that are being installed. Expensive weekend, but I'm quite excited
to
spend
> the $ on something this
informative.
>
>
I'll give you a synopsis and some pictures to look at come Monday
I
>
hope!
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
10:16:48 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: '98 VR-4 repair manuals for $30
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 12:12:47
-0500
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Brookdale Mitsubishi in Minneapolis is clearing out
factory repair manuals.
They have 2 sets of brand new manuals for '98
VR-4. Both books for $30 +
shipping. Talk to Greg Kinne, Parts Manager.
612.566.5600. And don't forget
to tell him I sent you.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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Date:
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From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: snake eyes mod
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Found out some side affects to doing the snake eyes mod
on my 93 Stealth
ES. Everything works okay, but...
When you turn on the parking lights and the headlights,
the light things
stay down and don't come up. I know, that's the whole
point of the
mod. But, when the headlights are on, and the lights are
down, you'd
think that you could just push the pop-up button and they'd pop
up..
WRONG! You have to turn off the headlights to get them to pop
up. The
same goes the other way. You can have the headlights on
and up, then
push the button for them to go down.. You have the turn
off the
headlights to get them to go down by pushing the button.. Then you
can
do the snake eyes by turning the headlights back on.. Get my
drift?
Anyone else have this problem..?
Also, I found that I don't even have to remove the dash
at all to do the
splicing.. I took me all of one minute to do it
all..
Leland Gray
93 Stealth ES
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
12:05:12 1999
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: snake eyes mod
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 14:04:59
-0500
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Leland,
I have heard that the different years have had
different rates of success
with the "snake eyes" mod. I have
a '92 ES and have absolutely no problems
whatsoever. I can put the
lights up or down with a push of the button no
matter if the lights are on or
off. Maybe this is a difference in the year,
then again, maybe there's
something wrong with the splice, it might be worth
a second
look.
Hope this helped some,
Brett
> Found out some side affects to doing the snake
eyes mod on my 93 Stealth
> ES. Everything works okay,
but...
>
> When you turn on the parking lights and the headlights,
the light things
> stay down and don't come up. I know, that's the
whole point of the
> mod. But, when the headlights are on, and the
lights are down, you'd
> think that you could just push the pop-up button
and they'd pop up..
> WRONG! You have to turn off the headlights to
get them to pop up. The
> same goes the other way. You can
have the headlights on and up, then
> push the button for them to go
down.. You have the turn off the
> headlights to get them to go down
by pushing the button.. Then you can
> do the snake eyes by turning the
headlights back on.. Get my drift?
> Anyone else have this
problem..?
>
> Also, I found that I don't even have to remove the
dash at all to do the
> splicing.. I took me all of one minute to do
it all..
>
> Leland Gray
> 93 Stealth ES
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
12:20:21 1999
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Date:
Fri, 9 Apr 1999 14:12:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: snake eyes
mod
Message-ID: <19990409.141255.-168041.5.SJC0U812@juno.com>
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Leland:
This just happened to me...I had my car in for a clutch
vacuum booster
and somehow they jumbled all the wires. I took it back
apart, and used a
"parasite" clip to do the deed, and voila, all
was better. Something's
touching something in a bad way down
there. Check it all over again.
Good luck!
Scott
'92 VR4
>Found out some side affects to doing the snake eyes
mod on my 93
>Stealth
>ES. Everything works okay,
but...
>
>When you turn on the parking lights and the headlights,
the light
>things
>stay down and don't come up. I know,
that's the whole point of the
>mod. But, when the headlights are on,
and the lights are down, you'd
>think that you could just push the pop-up
button and they'd pop up..
>WRONG! You have to turn off the
headlights to get them to pop up.
>The
>same goes the other
way. You can have the headlights on and up, then
>push the button
for them to go down.. You have the turn off the
>headlights to get
them to go down by pushing the button.. Then you
>can
>do the snake
eyes by turning the headlights back on.. Get my drift?
>Anyone else have
this problem..?
>
>Also, I found that I don't even have to remove
the dash at all to do
>the
>splicing.. I took me all of one
minute to do it all..
>
>Leland Gray
>93 Stealth
ES
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
14:39:59 1999
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Re: Team3S: snake eyes mod
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You guys were right.. I went back and redid the
connection, and wha-la, it works, just
like it's supossed to. THANKS
FOR THE HELP!!!
Leland Gray wrote:
> Found out some side affects to doing the snake
eyes mod on my 93 Stealth
> ES. Everything works okay,
but...
>
> When you turn on the parking lights and the headlights,
the light things
> stay down and don't come up. I know, that's the
whole point of the
> mod. But, when the headlights are on, and the
lights are down, you'd
> think that you could just push the pop-up button
and they'd pop up..
> WRONG! You have to turn off the headlights to
get them to pop up. The
> same goes the other way. You can
have the headlights on and up, then
> push the button for them to go
down.. You have the turn off the
> headlights to get them to go down
by pushing the button.. Then you can
> do the snake eyes by turning the
headlights back on.. Get my drift?
> Anyone else have this
problem..?
>
> Also, I found that I don't even have to remove the
dash at all to do the
> splicing.. I took me all of one minute to do
it all..
>
> Leland Gray
> 93 Stealth ES
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
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Locate the MFI relays fuse (I think No.1 at the front
pass side, 20A) and pull
it. This will disable any fuel related devices but
the starter should still
work. Note, this will not releave fuel pressure from
the lines.
> > On my Eclipse there is a fuse under the hood
labeled "MPI." I think the
> > 3000GT has the same
fuse, but I'm too lazy to go outside and look. Check
> > for that
fuse and if you find it, pull it. Then you can do a compression
>
> test or whatever without fuel spraying everywhere.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
I double this as I'll even do the temp checking on the
road.
At our dyno session the weather was cold and the loss
of intercooling efficiency
was compensated with an open hood and air intake
temperature around max 10°C. Of
course if you drive at this temps then
the air is cooler on the road but our
test was like driving around 20°C
outside temp.
Dave, please check out the dyno manufacturer and
software version. Also let them
reconrd raw wheel hp and the correct curve as
well. Finally set boost to 1.00
bars max before you crank it up to find the
level where the timing gets
retarded.
Good luck and a lot of fun,
Roger,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TT
The more boost, the more fuel and the higher octane you
need ! This are key
factors as well as the pistons and rings are. You can run
20psi on the stock
turbos for sure but will your rings still be alive
afterwards ?
This is why I just don't understand who started this
thread with "stock turbos".
The turbos are not the first limitation
and adding a bigger turbo will increase
the volumetric efficiency as well as
it will able to hold boost at the higher
rpms. But there are much more weaker
elements, like injectors, pump and of
course the ECU that can be
changed without touching the turbos.
> 11's for under $3000 Total cost for an 11 second
monster...$14,000
Injectors = $1000
Pump = $400
Boost controller =
not necessary, just remove the vacuum line from the
wastegate controllers (do
not do this on the street)
VPC = $850 (removes the MAS = more air)
Filter
= $200 (like Blitz SUS)
Gutting precats = free
Dowpipe with testpipe =
$350
Cat-Back = who needs this ? Just run one 3" pipe from the test-pipe
and add a
mini muffler if really necessary (rules?) = $350
Race Gas = I
don't know how much.
This are $3150 and if you are running with 116 octane
you'd be able to reach
20psi without a big danger.
> Thermo Wrap...everything the entire IC piping
setup
Does not really help as the piping will be heated up
from the ambient. I'd
believe in this if somebody is really making temp
measurments and sees 1°C lower
temps.
> NOS?
No, not at this moment because running on the juice is
another world and you'd
get a small mark on the best of the best
lists.
> New fold-up plexigalss headlights with cold air
intake
Remove the lights fully and add a snorkel to the right
opening.
> New Seats 8 lbs each
You only need one seat :)
> Remove all Interior I can get away with
>
Remove:
> Cruise
Control
> AC unit
>
Windhsield Wipers and Motors
> All sound
deadenanig material
Remove the sunroof if you have one. Also the stock
exhaust is very heavy ...
replace it with the stuff described. Next, open the
door sills and remove the
heavy crash bars that should guard you from side
impacts. If you want to stripe
more, get some very lightweight wheels (mucho
$$)
> Some questions on the following...
> Running
with _NO_ hood?
Umpf, not sure but it would look too crazy
:)
Next steps would be :
- Replace all fuel lines from the tank to the rails =
$500
- Big adjustable fuel pressure regulator = $150
- Big high flow fuel
filter = $90
- Rework the fuel rails for the bigger flow = ~$300
- Replace
the small pipe that conencts the rails with a big one = ~$100
- Add bigger
intercoolers and hard IC pipes = ~$2500
- Change ECU = $850
-
Water/Alcohol injection (not NOS but cools down chamber) = $800
- for sure
here bigger turbos would do a lot in delivering the appropriate
amount of air
:) = $2000
- Biiig clutch = $450 (hehe)
This nets in ~$7650 plus the first ~$3200 gives you a
damn fast, scary,
explosive AWD rocket for "only"
$11000.
Well, I don't know how long the tranny will last then
as well as labour is not
included.
Happy modding,
Roger
----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads ... and Gremlins too
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Records for stock turbos?
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 17:31:27
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> The more boost, the more fuel and the higher
octane you need !
> This are key factors as well as the pistons and rings
are. You
> can run 20psi on the stock turbos for sure but will your
rings
> still be alive afterwards ?
Can you explain what you mean about the rings? I
don't understand why the
rings would care if you are running stock turbos or
larger turbos... If you
are running 20 psi on stock turbos or upgrades,
the pistons/rings only see
20 psi of "preload" in the
cylinder. Or did you mean that a lack of fuel at
20 psi would cause
detonation and take out the rings?
-Matt
> The more boost, the more fuel and the higher
octane you need !
> This are key factors as well as the pistons and rings
are. You
> can run 20psi on the stock turbos for sure but will your
rings
> still be alive afterwards ?
Can you explain what you mean about the rings? I
don't understand why the
rings would care if you are running stock turbos or
larger turbos... If you
are running 20 psi on stock turbos or upgrades,
the pistons/rings only see
20 psi of "preload" in the
cylinder. Or did you mean that a lack of fuel at
20 psi would cause
detonation and take out the rings?
-Matt
===========================
Matt...
Correct...at least one member (Roger) has lost his
rings due to detonation.
Primary cause: too much boost
Secondary cause:
engine runs too lean.
Tertiary cause: the engine is so well insulated, and
your screaming (due to
20 psi boost) drowns out the sound of detonation. You
never even know it's
happening until something breaks. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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> So basicly 15 psi is the max you can go without
detonation even with
> big injectors, fuel pump etc. on pump gas?
Any updates on the water
> injection?
Well, you can "dump" in a lot fuel to cool
down the combustion chamber. This
will alow you to increase boost but you'll
run way too rich then and do not make
the power you are looking for. Also the
too large amount of fuel compared to the
delivered air is washing out the
cylinder walls and the rings will wear out
sooner than expected. Fighting
against our enemy called detonation can done by
reducing intake temperature
or increasing the octane rating. The last is not
only done with a 1 or 2
point booster as for 18psi of boost you'll need about
112 octane. I only
recall this figure but I haven't the formula handy. I think
Barry was very
helpful on this :)
The WI uses the water to remove the heat from the
intake air and with this it
provides detonation resistance like fuel up to
140 octanes. Of course the system
will be tuned in to deliver the appropriate
amount needed for the application.
Therefore more water is needed for a 20psi
setup than for a 15psi and this can
be done by the different jets delivered
with the kits. Racing fuel with 120
octane is more efficient than a WI system
with pump gas boosted up to 120 octane
with it. This because the fuel can be
burnt and produces energy while the water
just enters the chamber as a steam
and therefore lowers the total energy. At
this point, adding more fuel can be
delivered that will be burnt at higher
pressures.
The water injection will be my way for sure but it's a
little bit a problem of
my wallet at the moment. Also, Mikael just wrote me
about the new "Haligator"
from Haltech. It is a boost controller
with many accessoires function that also
can control a water inejction system
based upon MAP, rpm and other values. This
may reduce the inital WI system
cost but first I have to know what this thing
costs.
So you see that only adding a WI system doesn't help a
lot because our cars fuel
system is at its end pretty soon. After upgrading
this parts the WI system does
it's job very effective as I can't drive the
whole time with racing gas.
Expensive and waste of money. The WI system kicks
in when preventing detonation
is needed and this is good to know
then.
Due to ERL I'd be able to run 1.2 to 1.3 bars of boost
with the upgraded fuel
parts and the basic WI system. If the pistons and
rings can withstand this
pressure is written on another
paper.
> Every one of your posts is a learning experience for
me. Thanks for
> sharing your knowledge with me and everyone on the
list.
Oh, this belongs to everyone on teh list and there are
a lot more with much more
experience than I have.
Later (better said tomorrow)
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
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Re: Team3S: Records for stock turbos?
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> Can you explain what you mean about the
rings? I don't understand why the
> rings would care if you are
running stock turbos or larger turbos...
I meant this related to the boost and bigger turbos can
mean more boost.
> If you are running 20 psi on stock turbos or
upgrades, the pistons/rings
> only see 20 psi of "preload" in
the cylinder.
You say "only", but what do the rings and
ringlands think of this power ? Are
they designed to withstand this preloaded
and finally produced pressure in the
chamber ? Unfortunately not and a new
"stock" words comes up : stock
pistons/rings.
Detonation can occur allover the rpm band but it's
mostly seen around the peak
power (5600 on ours). As our cars rev up so quick
when boost is up the area is
stepped thrugh pretty quick in the lower gears.
At this time, a huge pressure
can produce a "kick" to the piston
that may result in breaking. This happended
to three of mine and all on the
same side. The parts looked as they where broken
due to a extreme short but
heavy kick from the chamber. An ultra-lean condition
would more produce bad
things to the upper piston area but they still looked
pretty good. The
ringlands are also a critical part when increasing boost. This
is why forged
pistons do have a thicker and therefore stronger design in that
area. Just
compare the JE pistons to the stock ones. Also compare the stock
rings to
really good ones and you'll understand.
> Or did you mean that a lack of fuel at
> 20
psi would cause detonation and take out the rings?
As mentioned in the other message, too much fuel can
wash out the walls and
causing too much ring-wear. But detonation will hurt
them also for sure. But
often more fuel doesn't really help as also more
octane is needed to really
prevent the enemy.
Later,
Roger
I truly believe that it is possible. Adam went 12.32 full
exhaust,
boost controller, intake, and an AFC. Mike ,from what I know,
had
nothing too fancy, and I've personally seen a 12.6 on pump gas with a
bleeder
valve, air filter, and gutted main cat.
You need good weather
conditions, a good launch, good 60ft. time, and
good shifts.
No major
overkill is needed if you get those 4 things. No major
weight
reduction, probably just spare, jack, and tools.
I think it can be
done with a full 3" exhaust including gutted cats.
A boost controller
running 17 to 20 psi (crank 'er up till fuel cut)
A big filter such as
K&N Aircharger
And some fuel mods- AFC(maybe a VPC, possibly 550
injectors if you are
running out of juice up top, and a high flow pump.
I
think that is what it takes, remember driving skill is all the
difference in
the world!
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Stock turbo 11's
buildup
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When you mention a "good 60 foot time" in
order to do 11's...
It may be possible, but it will be a GREAT
FEAT!
Consider that our fastest cars (without Nitrous) are doing 1.69 The
Great Bob
Fontana,
Jack T. at 1.70 (wow, I matched superman's time) and
Adam at 1.71 are all
doing 11's.
Then consider that Jack T our very own
legend number ONE car with Nitrous is
only 2/10's better at 1.5 and think of
the power it takes to do these times.
These cars are truly MONSTERS in
the HP dept. With good drivers (dare I say
great). It will be no walk in the
park to get a stock car into the 11's
without juice. Maybe with Helium in
your tires.:)
Go for it! I think its possible with serious weight
reduction.
Arty 91 VR-4
<< ubj: Team3S: Re: Stock turbo 11's
buildup
Date: 4/9/99 8:11:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: pearlvr42c@juno.com (Del A
Kolasinski)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
I truly believe that it is possible. Adam went 12.32
full
exhaust, boost controller, intake, and an AFC. Mike ,from
what I know,
had nothing too fancy, and I've personally seen a 12.6 on
pump gas with a
bleeder valve, air filter, and gutted main cat.
You need good weather conditions, a good launch, good 60ft. time,
and
good shifts.
No major overkill is needed if you get those
4 things. No major weight
reduction, probably just spare, jack,
and tools.
I think it can be done with a full 3" exhaust including
gutted cats.
A boost controller running 17 to 20 psi (crank 'er up till
fuel cut)
A big filter such as K&N Aircharger
And some
fuel mods- AFC(maybe a VPC, possibly 550 injectors if you are
running
out of juice up top, and a high flow pump.
I think that is what it
takes, remember driving skill is all the
difference in the
world!
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
>>
Well i've finally hit my first big problem with my car.
I was driving along
around 40 MPH, check engine light comes on and took a
look at my temp gauge.
GREAT! the needle is sitting in the red! I also saw
that the oil pressure
was slowly going down. I drove about a block, found
somewhere to park and
shut her off. Everything seems fine, other then it
being VERY hot! Oil level
was fine, no leaks under the car. Then i looked at
the coolant overflow
bottle. It looks like coolant had leaked out of the
overflow tube. Only a
couple drops on the pavement. The frame of the car
immediately below the
bottle was also wet. I took the cap of the bottle, and
coolant was slowly
steaming out. Also, before i shut the car off, i ran the
heater full blast,
my lame attempt at trying to cool the engine. absolutely
no heat came out at
all. Maybe the coolant wasnt flowing through the heater
core?
The check engine light doesn't come on anymore, and i was able to drive
the
car about a block to my office after letting it cool for three hours.
Didn't
run long enough for the needle to get higher then the very last line
on the
temp gauge. Any insight might be helpful if this has happened to
anyone else
before. What would the general consensus be here? Water pump?
Could it be
anything else? clogged radiator or water hose somewhere? Should i
try and
figure out the check engine error code? Should be getting my manuals
back in
a couple days, maybe that will help. Should i take it to the dealer?
I
really have NO money to spend right now, i hope it's something
simple.
Thanks,
Omar
92 r/t
Roger,
In reading about the epic battle between more boost and
the lack of
octane to prevent detonation and the use of water injection (this
was
used on WWII piston fighter planes), I was suddenly struck with
absence
of what was supposed to be the savior of the seventies during the
feul
crisis: alcohol, or more specifically, methanol. Isn't this how the
Indy
cars get around this quandry when ringing all that horsepower out
of
those tiny little engines. I know the mileage is horrible and there
are
issues with compatability between methanol and certain materials
used
along the feul path, but doesn't it deliver very high octane?? (I
am
speaking qualitatively. I have no idea what the numbers
are
quantitavely.) And isn't it very, very cheap?
Regards,
Lynn
"R.G." wrote:
> As mentioned in the other message, too much fuel
can wash out the walls and
> causing too much ring-wear. But detonation
will hurt them also for sure. But
> often more fuel doesn't really help as
also more octane is needed to really
> prevent the enemy.
>
>
Later,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: overheating, NA 92 r/t
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 21:21:47
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>Well i've finally hit my first big problem with my
car. I was driving along
>around 40 MPH, check engine light comes on and
took a look at my temp
gauge.
>GREAT! the needle is sitting in the red!
I also saw that the oil pressure
>was slowly going down. I drove about a
block, found somewhere to park and
>shut her off. Everything seems fine,
other then it being VERY hot! Oil
level
>was fine, no leaks under the
car. Then i looked at the coolant overflow
>bottle. It looks like coolant
had leaked out of the overflow tube. Only a
>couple drops on the
pavement.
sounds like it might be as simple as a stuck
thermostat ---- sudden onset
of problem usually means it's not radiator.
Belts are a possibility, but
sense we have a serpentine belt there would be
other indications --
alternator, A/C, power steering. Another possibility is
water pump but
they usually give advance notice of failure e.g. leaking. The
cheap fix
and easy fix is thermostat.
good luck --- Jim berry 93
TT
> sounds like it might be as simple as a stuck
thermostat ---- sudden onset
> of problem usually means it's not radiator.
Belts are a possibility, but
> sense we have a serpentine belt there would
be other indications --
> alternator, A/C, power steering. Another
possibility is water pump but
> they usually give advance notice of
failure e.g. leaking. The cheap fix
> and easy fix is
thermostat.
>
> good luck --- Jim berry 93
TT
Thanks for the quick response Jim, i'll look into these
things in the
morning. I really hope it's only the thermostat. If the
thermostat didn't
open, would that mean coolant wouldn't flow? Maybe that
explains no heat out
of the vents? This happened after driving for about an
hour. If the
thermostat failed, wouldn't it fail in the open position?I'll
let you guys
know tommorrow. Thanks again for you're help. Don't know what
i'd do without
this list.
Omar
92 r/t
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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Team3S: Oil leak
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I've just recently taken my 94 VR4 out of storage
and noticed oil on
the ground just in front of the left front tire. I
thought it was
leaking from the oil filter as it' in the same area so today I
changed
the oil and filter and cleaned the area around it. I've driven
the car
a bit and noticed that it's still leaking oil in the same
place. I
haven't had a chance to get underneath it yet, but I was
wondering if
this might be a known problem with a simple and inexpensive
solution (oh
please, please, PLEASE!) For what it's worth, the leak
seems to be in
FRONT of the oil pan, but I won't know for sure until I get
the car up
in the air and can really examine it.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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Team3S: Oil Leak
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I've just
recently taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
oil on the ground
just
in front of the left front tire. I thought it was
leaking from the oil
filter as it' in the same area so today I changed
the oil and filter and
cleaned the area around it. I've driven the car
a bit and noticed that
it's still leaking oil in the same place. I
haven't had a chance to get
underneath it yet, but I was wondering if
this might be a known problem with
a simple and inexpensive solution (oh
please, please, PLEASE!) For what
it's worth, the leak seems to be in
FRONT and to the left of the oil pan, but
I won't know for sure until I
get the car up
in the air and can really
examine it. Any suggestions??
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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Subject:
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thermostat....?......mine did that about a month
ago
Omar Malik wrote:
> Well i've finally hit my first big problem with my
car. I was driving along
> around 40 MPH, check engine light comes on and
took a look at my temp gauge.
> GREAT! the needle is sitting in the red! I
also saw that the oil pressure
> was slowly going down. I drove about a
block, found somewhere to park and
> shut her off. Everything seems fine,
other then it being VERY hot! Oil level
> was fine, no leaks under the
car. Then i looked at the coolant overflow
> bottle. It looks like coolant
had leaked out of the overflow tube. Only a
> couple drops on the
pavement. The frame of the car immediately below the
> bottle was also
wet. I took the cap of the bottle, and coolant was slowly
> steaming out.
Also, before i shut the car off, i ran the heater full blast,
> my lame
attempt at trying to cool the engine. absolutely no heat came out at
>
all. Maybe the coolant wasnt flowing through the heater core?
> The check
engine light doesn't come on anymore, and i was able to drive the
> car
about a block to my office after letting it cool for three hours. Didn't
>
run long enough for the needle to get higher then the very last line on
the
> temp gauge. Any insight might be helpful if this has happened to
anyone else
> before. What would the general consensus be here? Water
pump? Could it be
> anything else? clogged radiator or water hose
somewhere? Should i try and
> figure out the check engine error code?
Should be getting my manuals back in
> a couple days, maybe that will
help. Should i take it to the dealer? I
> really have NO money to spend
right now, i hope it's something simple.
>
> Thanks,
>
Omar
> 92 r/t
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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Randy,
The oil pan drain plug us a known leaker and
it sounds like this may be
where it is coming from. Try getting a
sealing washer or some teflon
tape on the threads.
Regarsd,
Lynn
Randy MacAulay wrote:
>
> I've just recently
taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
> oil on the ground
>
just in front of the left front tire. I thought it was
> leaking
from the oil filter as it' in the same area so today I changed
> the oil
and filter and cleaned the area around it. I've driven the car
> a
bit and noticed that it's still leaking oil in the same place. I
>
haven't had a chance to get underneath it yet, but I was wondering if
>
this might be a known problem with a simple and inexpensive solution (oh
>
please, please, PLEASE!) For what it's worth, the leak seems to be
in
> FRONT and to the left of the oil pan, but I won't know for sure until
I
> get the car up
> in the air and can really examine
it. Any suggestions??
>
>
Thanks!
> Randy
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 9
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Leak
Date: Fri, 9 Apr 1999 22:29:09 -0700
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----
By all means try a fiber or copper washer,
don't just keep
tighting untill you strip the bolt. Most auto parts stores
sell
the washers. Mine leaks also I just haven't gotten around
to
it.
>The oil pan drain plug us a known leaker and it
sounds like this may be
>where it is coming from. Try getting a
sealing washer or some teflon
>tape on the
threads.
>
>Regarsd,
>Lynn
>
>Randy MacAulay
wrote:
>>
>>
I've just recently taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
>> oil on
the ground
>> just in front of the left front tire.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 01:19:02
1999
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Date:
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From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
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If it isn't the washer, you might want to check the oil
cooler lines. My '91
sprung a leak and it didn't take long to go from a drip
to a river. The
lines connect to the block at the filter. There is insulation
around the
line, so it could be hiding the leak and running it down the line.
Hope it's not this. There are 3 lines and they cost
about $200 total.
Randy MacAulay wrote:
>
> I've just recently
taken my 94 VR4 out of storage and noticed
> oil on the ground
>
just in front of the left front tire. I thought it
was
>
--
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
-You
"put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your
thoughts"
-Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
I had to format my hard drive and forgot to back up my
bookmarks. Could
anyone tell me the url for the 3000GT service manuals on CD?
Thanks.
I was wondering if anyone on the list recommends or is
using octane
boost on a regular basis in the NA 3000GT's? I'd like the car to
run
more consistently and it seems that 92 octane isnt enough for
10:1
compression anyways. Does anyone recommend a specific brand of
octane
boost? Should I use it every fill up, or every other fill up? Thanks
for
any info.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 01:41:36
1999
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> Thanks for the quick response Jim, i'll look into
these things in the
> morning. I really hope it's only the thermostat. If
the thermostat didn't
> open, would that mean coolant wouldn't
flow?
Yes, exactly. You got the check engine light as the
temperature gauge was
sitting in the red and the ECU activates the light as
the gauge could be defect
> Maybe that explains no heat out of the vents? This
happened after driving
> for about an hour. If the thermostat failed,
wouldn't it fail in the open
> position?
The thermostat is a spring loaded bi-metal that
switches to open if a specific
temerature is reached (180° or 160°).
If the thing breaks the spring keeps it in
closed position. Change it and
watch the water temp the next time you drive (10
times around your block) or
just let it sit and idle. If the temp goes just a
little higher than the mod
position shut it off. Unfortunately, then the water
pump must be replaced but
that's not a big deal. I've let change it at the 60k
service
too.
Later,
Roger
> crisis: alcohol, or more specifically, methanol.
Isn't this how the Indy
> cars get around this quandry when ringing all
that horsepower out of
> those tiny little engines.
I think there are specific rules that say how much
octane the gas can have and
what kind it is. Also, as far as I know the turbo
engines are not allowed to
have a WI system anymore. AT the F1 Turbo area
they got around 1000hp out of an
1.5 litre turbo engine (ahhhhhh). This with
140 octane gas AND water/alcohol
injection.
> I know the mileage is horrible and there are
issues with compatability
> between methanol and certain materials used
along the feul path, but doesn't
> it deliver very high octane?? (I am
speaking qualitatively. I have no idea
> what the numbers are
quantitavely.) And isn't it very, very cheap?
I don't know the cost mut availability is a problem too
(at least here). You're
absolutely right about methanol and one more
important thing is that methanol is
not giving you as good greasing as racing
gas.
I'm curently prepare everything for the car to get
water injected and in my path
I'll use a mixture between methanol and water.
I currently don't know the
balance but it'll be around 1/3 alcohol. This will
give the additional power and
octane rating while I do not run in danger that
the water freezes in winter.
Also the amount of fuel can be lowered a little
on the desired boost level.
Regards,
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 01:44:37
1999
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No, there is no need for octane booster for your car !
Just make sure you are
running good pump gas. You can use a good fuel system
cleaner every 30k or so.
This will remove carbon deposits on the valves while
cleaning the injectors.
> compression anyways. Does anyone recommend a
specific brand of octane
> boost? Should I use it every fill up, or every
other fill up? Thanks for
> any info.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 01:46:13
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: service manuals on CD
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This is the link to Vineets CD Backup manual
:
> I had to format my hard drive and forgot to back
up my bookmarks. Could
> anyone tell me the url for the 3000GT service
manuals on CD? Thanks.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 07:20:27
1999
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From:
"Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: snake eyes mod
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 10:23:13
-0400
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You should check the directions at the 3SI site.
I did it the way it states
and did the under dash splice and the light will
operate will raise and
lower with the popup switch, no matter the
status of the actual headlight
operation. They will lift with or without the
lights on or off.
Andy
--------------0E523FC2D29A537398EAC8D7
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Buyer's Index Listings for:
Automotive
Do not Click on the above link unless you have an extra
couples of hours
to sit at the computer!!!!
I stumbled accross this today. EXCELLENT
resource. Something for
everybody.
Have fun....and feel free to curse my name for wasting
a few hours of
everybody's time.
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth
R/T Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
--------------0E523FC2D29A537398EAC8D7
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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0
transitional//en">
<html>
<a
href="http://www.buyersindex.com/brca/8.htm">Buyer's Index
Listings
for: Automotive</a>
<p>Do not Click on the above link
unless you have an extra couples of hours
to sit at the
computer!!!!
<p>I stumbled accross this today. EXCELLENT
resource. Something
for everybody.
<p>Have fun....and feel
free to curse my name for wasting a few hours of
everybody's
time.
<p>--
<br>-Jeff
Crabtree
<br> '91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
<br>
'93 Wrangler
4.0L
Sport
<br>
St.
Louis, MO
<br> </html>
--------------0E523FC2D29A537398EAC8D7--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 08:43:25
1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: octane boost in NA's
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 08:39:39
-0700
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Hey, Kyle,
Again, this question never reached the list...
Reread the rules page for
instructions on using the digest (you can't hit
reply-- you must address
questions to the main list...) Whatever gas
you choose to use, the computer
reads what's happening and gives it the best
setting for that kind of gas.
I always use 93 in my NT, and it always goes
like a bat. Theoretically, the
ECU is set for that octane, so if you're
going to higher octane, you might
want to disconnect the battery after a
couple of fill-ups, so the ECU can
re-learn what's going on in the
engine. You'll get more answers if you post
to the list...
:-)
Best,
Forrest
|I was wondering if anyone on the list recommends
or is using octane
|boost on a regular basis in the NA 3000GT's? I'd like the
car to run
|more consistently and it seems that 92 octane isnt enough for
10:1
|compression anyways. Does anyone recommend a specific brand of
octane
|boost? Should I use it every fill up, or every other fill up? Thanks
for
|any info.
|
|
|Kyle
|black '94 3000GT
|For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
|
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>
>
Randy,
> The oil pan drain plug us a known leaker and it sounds like this
may be
> where it is coming from. Try getting a sealing washer or
some teflon
> tape on the threads.
Or a really good (but kinda cheesy
way) to make a gasket is to cut a
disc out of an old bike innertube, and then
cut the hole in the middle a
bit smaller than the drainn plug, and slip it
over. It fits tight, and
doesn't leak.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 10:31:40
1999
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From: Randy MacAulay <rmacaulay@mediaone.net>
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Subject:
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References: <370ED82C.D56E3527@mediaone.net>
<370EDF9F.5644951D@ibm.net>
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Michael Booker wrote:
> William Lynn Larsen wrote:
> >
>
> Randy,
> > The oil pan drain plug us a known leaker and it sounds
like this may be
> > where it is coming from. Try getting a
sealing washer or some teflon
> > tape on the threads.
> Or a
really good (but kinda cheesy way) to make a gasket is to cut a
> disc out
of an old bike innertube, and then cut the hole in the middle a
> bit
smaller than the drainn plug, and slip it over. It fits tight, and
>
doesn't leak.
>
Thanks for the input, but I've
already replaced the washer on the drain plug and
there doesn't appear to be
any oil leaking around it at all. I must admit that I was
REALLY hoping
there would be though. I have a feeling that the problem could
be
somewhere between the oil pan and the oil cooler. Any easy (relative
term, I know...)
way to access this and check it out??
Thanks!
Randy
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 11:52:29
1999
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Andy,
I have been considering getting into this thread, not
because I want the
snake eyes, but because I would like to be able to run
with just the
driving/fog lights on without having to turn on my low beams.
From you
statement below, I suppose I could let the lights operate as per
normal
(fog lights come on with low beams when you have the fog light
button
activated), but leave them in the down position. I'd have snake
eyes
with my fog/driving lights, right??
Regards,
Lynn
Andy Carberry wrote:
>
> You should check
the directions at the 3SI site. I did it the way it states
> and did
the under dash splice and the light will operate will raise and
> lower
with the popup switch, no matter the status of the actual
headlight
> operation. They will lift with or without the lights on or
off.
>
> Andy
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 12:12:25
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Kyle,
I agree totally with Roger and Bob. I use
strictly 93 octane Shell
and/or 93 octane Amoco and have had no problems at
all. If you decide
to go ahead and use booster you should develop a
procedure that lets you
put in the same ratio every time: Fill up at 1/4 tank
left by putting in
10 gal of gas and 1 bottle of booster (this is for example
only!! not
meant to be a recommendation for quantities!!) Then follow
Bob's
suggestion after a couple of fill ups (this will make certain that
all
of the feul through out the system is consistent) of disconnecting
the
battery to reset the ECU.
Are you getting detonation or does the engine want to
keep running when
you shut it off?? These would be the kind of things
that might make you
want to try the booster.
Regards,
Lynn
Kyle Patton wrote:
>
> I was wondering if
anyone on the list recommends or is using octane
> boost on a regular
basis in the NA 3000GT's? I'd like the car to run
> more consistently and
it seems that 92 octane isnt enough for 10:1
> compression anyways. Does
anyone recommend a specific brand of octane
> boost? Should I use it every
fill up, or every other fill up? Thanks for
> any info.
>
>
Kyle
> black '94 3000GT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Thanks to everyone that replied to my original post.
Well, it turned out to
be the thermostat, just as everyone had
suggested.
But i think between the time it went to the red zone,
and the time i saw it
and stopped, something happened to the water pump. I
changed the thermostat,
had to put in about 2 gallons of water/antifreeze,
warmed the engine up for
10 minutes and started to drive around the block.
Everything was fine, temp
gauge stayed where it normally did, heater was
pumping out heat. Near the
end of my 30 minute "test" run, i start
to hear this nice high pitch
squeel/whine. You know, the kind where you KNOW
there's something wrong. I
stopped and got out, and lo and behold, i've got
coolant literally raining
out of under the car right underneath where the
water pump is.
Well. guess i have to put her up on stands, pull out
the good old service
manual and get cracking on the water pump, timing belt
and all the other
goodies. I'm kind of glad it was the water pump, and not
the timing belt.
Gives me an excuse to do the 60k mile tune up. I guess while
i'm at it, i'll
rip everything else off, clean everything and put it back
together. Thanks
everyone for the help!
btw, what's the proper way to get rid of coolant? can
it be flushed down the
toilet, or do i have to take it
somewhere?
Omar
92 r/t
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 17:13:24
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 19:12:54
-0500
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Hello All-
I have 26K miles on my VR-4 245/40-ZR-18
tires, and they are bald.
(Yoko A028s, I think.) They have really good
cornering traction. I
want to replace them with a tire that has nearly
as good cornering
ability, but doesn't wear so fast. I don't care about
wet traction, =
braking
traction, temperature and the like. Does
anyone have experience with =
tires=20
of this size that meet my
desires? I live in the south, and don't need
all-season
performance. I have an affinity for Michelin, and I think
the Pilot SX
MXX3 would be fine, but they are a little pricey to have
such a low wear
rating (about 160 I think). Helpful comments
from anyone will be much
appreciated.
Regards, ptg =20
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HTML//EN">
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=
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bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello
All-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>I have 26K miles on my VR-4 =
245/40-ZR-18 tires,=20
and they
are bald.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>(Yoko A028s, I think.) They =
have really=20
good
cornering traction. I</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>want to replace them with a tire =
that has
nearly=20
as good cornering</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>ability, but doesn't wear so =
fast. I
don't=20
care about wet traction,
braking</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>traction, temperature and the =
like. Does=20
anyone
have experience with tires </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>of </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000
=
size=3D2>this size=20
that meet my desires? I live in the
south, and don't =
need</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>all-season performance. I have =
an
affinity=20
for Michelin, and I
think</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>the Pilot SX MXX3 would be fine, but =
they are a=20
little
pricey to have</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>such a low wear rating (about 160 I=20
think). Helpful
comments</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>from anyone will be
much=20
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards, ptg
=
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BE8386.22D82700--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 17:17:18
1999
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From:
"Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: snake eyes mod
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:19:59
-0400
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Nope, you can run your driving lights on
only. You just turn the light
switch to parking lights and the driving
lights will operate. I did mine in
November I think so I don't remember
exactly what to cut and splice but you
can find it at the 3SI web page.
http://www.3si.org/modification_info/tipsandtricks.html
Andy
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 17:41:03
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 19:40:34
-0500
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>To reset your ECU all you do is disconnect your
Battery positive for 10 or
15 minutes,
>then reconnect. Be sure and do
this when working on your car (ie:
installing
new
>componenets).
Darc-
I know how to reset the ECU. But my
question is what does
cat removal cause the ECU to do to engine
operation? Does
it run richer, leaner, or what? Does it do
different things
depending on whether you have OBDI versus OBDII?
Regards,
ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 17:43:51
1999
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From:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: snake eyes mod
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:46:32
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I found the driving light mod here it is for anyone
interested:
Andy
Re: FOG lights on with parking lights on 1st gen
3000GT
Posted by Jeff on September 01, 1998 at
23:19:31:
In Reply to: FOG lights on with parking lights on 1st
gen 3000GT posted by
Brian on August 24, 1998 at 21:26:29:
: Does any one know how to get your fog lights to come
on
: with you parking lights on the 1st generation 3000GT?
: the fog
lights only come on when you put up the lights.
: how can I change that?
:
thanks
OK next to your air cleaner is a relay box (sorry I
don't know the
technical name). It's held down by 3 (10mm) bolts. Remove the
bolts
and lift the assembly so you can remove the bottom cover. The
bottom
is held on by many small notches. Remove or open the bottom (I
never
removed mine just took it about half way off). You should now be
able
to see where the wires attach to the relays and fuses. The 3rd
relay
slot from the front of the car should be the fog light relay.
There
are 4 red wires attached to it, 1 with silver dashes, 1 with a
yellow
stripe and silver dots, and 2 with a blue stripe. The one that is
on
the bottom of the relay with the blue stripe is the one you need
to
cut. Cut the wire so you have enough room to splice a new wire to
the
end of it. Cover the end of the wire not attached to the relay
anymore.
this is a hot wire, but only when your lights are on) Attach a power
wire
to the wire still attached to the relay. This power wire should be
from
something that has the same "power to" requirements that you
want your
fog lights to have. This power wire does not power your fog lights
just
the relay. I tapped into the side that provides power to the
headlight
relay to retain the walk-away feature. That should do it now just
test
it quick before you put it back together.
Jeff
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 18:02:46
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:02:18
-0500
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>> Powerslot rotors and my K&K FIPK is on the
way.
>
>Doran, good luck with the rotors ! Let us know how long it
takes until they
get
>warped. What pads are you using with them
?
Doran, Roger, et-al-
Please post your experience
with brake rotors (front, I guess).
I have 26K miles on my '95 VR-4
rotors, and they have been
heavily warped for 24K of these miles. Does
anyone know of a
REAL cure for this problem at ANY price? Surely, with
18 inch
wheels, a 14 inch set of rotors could be made which would
not
warp!? Thanks for any info!
Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 19:13:05
1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:11:40
-0500
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Take a look at Nitto tires like the 555 extreme or
whatever it's called.
Pretty good wear ratings. Above 300 if i'm not
mistaken.
Omar
92 r/t
Hello All-
I have 26K miles on my VR-4
245/40-ZR-18 tires, and they are bald.
(Yoko A028s, I think.) They have
really good cornering traction. I
want to replace them with a tire that
has nearly as good cornering
ability, but doesn't wear so fast. I don't
care about wet traction, braking
traction, temperature and the like.
Does anyone have experience with tires
of this size that meet my
desires? I live in the south, and don't need
all-season
performance. I have an affinity for Michelin, and I think
the Pilot SX
MXX3 would be fine, but they are a little pricey to have
such a low wear
rating (about 160 I think). Helpful comments
from anyone will be much
appreciated.
Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 20:02:50
1999
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Date:
Sat, 10 Apr 1999 19:02:35 -0800
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
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The Powerslots are just one way of getting rid of that
horrible shuddering when coming to a stop. Mine did that ('92 VR-4) until
I replaced with the PowerSlots. My braking is much firmer now than with
the OEM's. With the slots they are supposed to cool much faster, with less
cracking than the cross-drilled(remember supposed to). I'd go with any
aftermarket rotor like the PowerSlot or the Stillen Cross-drilled, or if I could
really afford it and do smoe massive high-speed braking - then the BREMBO's
would be my choice. The Slots are cheaper than OEM (WHY?) and the
Stillen's are about $50 more per pair. Brembo's will cost you - looking
probably upwards of $1k or more for the whole setup for fronts
only.
BlkBlur - '92 VR-4
--
On Sat, 10 Apr 1999 20:02:18 Paul T. Golley
wrote:
>>> Powerslot rotors and my K&K FIPK is on the
way.
>>
>>Doran, good luck with the rotors ! Let us know how
long it takes until they
>get
>>warped. What pads are you using
with them ?
>
>
>Doran, Roger, et-al-
>Please post your
experience with brake rotors (front, I guess).
>I have 26K miles on
my '95 VR-4 rotors, and they have been
>heavily warped for 24K of these
miles. Does anyone know of a
>REAL cure for this problem at ANY
price? Surely, with 18 inch
>wheels, a 14 inch set of rotors could
be made which would not
>warp!? Thanks for any info!
>Regards,
ptg
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 20:07:19
1999
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I've got Goodyears on mine, wear is good, but he
NOISE. the BF Goodrich TA's are good choice too. One of the car mags
(can't rememeber which) did an article last month on high-speed tires and the
Goodrich's were one of the best (wear, noise, & cost) along with the new
Michelins (but they cost a whole lot more than others).
--
On Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:11:40 Omar Malik
wrote:
>Take a look at Nitto tires like the 555 extreme or whatever it's
called.
>Pretty good wear ratings. Above 300 if i'm not
mistaken.
>
>Omar
>92 r/t
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Paul T. Golley
>Sent: Saturday, April 10, 1999 7:13
PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
>
>
>Hello All-
>I
have 26K miles on my VR-4 245/40-ZR-18 tires, and they are bald.
>(Yoko
A028s, I think.) They have really good cornering traction.
I
>want to replace them with a tire that has nearly as good
cornering
>ability, but doesn't wear so fast. I don't care about wet
traction, braking
>traction, temperature and the like. Does anyone
have experience with tires
>of this size that meet my desires? I
live in the south, and don't need
>all-season performance. I have an
affinity for Michelin, and I think
>the Pilot SX MXX3 would be fine, but
they are a little pricey to have
>such a low wear rating (about 160 I
think). Helpful comments
>from anyone will be much
appreciated.
>Regards, ptg
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 20:10:09
1999
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From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
Message-ID:
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service manuals on CD
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ONLY ONE CAVIAT - he (Vineet) states you must own a
manual before buying his back-up on CD - I'm sure that's a legal protection
thing on his part - but how many of us CAN FIND a legit copy of the manual in
the first place.
--
>
>btw, what's the proper way to get rid of
coolant? can it be flushed down the
>toilet, or do i have to take it
somewhere?
Feed it to the cat that walks on VR4s>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 20:33:39
1999
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Paul T. Golley wrote:
snip
> I know how to reset the ECU. But my question
is what does
> cat removal cause the ECU to do to engine operation?
Does
> it run richer, leaner, or what? Does it do different
things
> depending on whether you have OBDI versus OBDII?
> Regards,
ptg
Hi Paul;
I can only speak to the first generation ECU's...
perhaps someone else can comment on
the latter edition. I have found
main cat removal (I still have precats) gives an
occasional small backfire
when letting off the gas under aggressive acceleration. This
is
the unburnt gas/vapour which is normally handled by the main cat and it is is
not a
problem, as no problem in operation has ever been detected. I
understand that this even
occurs with cat back installations, so perhaps a
slightly rich situation occurs with our
cars under normal conditions. Other
than this there is no detectable glitch with the car
or ECU, and
the ECU adjustments (if any) for the cat's absence seem to have
it
running in top form. . I have been running from Day One this way with no
detectable
problem.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 10 21:22:45
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: service manuals on CD
Date: Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:22:00
-0700
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>ONLY ONE CAVIAT - he (Vineet) states you must own a
manual before buying
his back-up on CD - I'm sure that's a legal protection
thing on his part -
but how many of us CAN FIND a legit copy of the manual in
the first place.
>-
call 1-800-890-4038 ------------ shop
manuals [2] $59.00 shipping and
tax $10.47
I was told they
also have the owners manual!!!
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
I just watched the Express desert rally in Nevada on
Speedvision, and John
Argyl, in a Mitsu from New Zealand, was winning it
until the snow came on
the last day of the 3-day rally. Then, John Sprongl,
Canadian rally
champion, blew the Mitsu away. Sprongl was the only car that
brought snow
tires, and he was untouchable in his 400 hp Audi Quattro in the
snow.
If you spot this show (ref. 1) in your TV listing, tune
it in. It's very
interesting on three counts:
1. You'll get to see some REAL racing. Rallying
is the toughest automotive
sport there is, the most challenging for a driver,
and the most fun I've
ever had with my clothes on. On one stage, the leader
maintains a 90 mph
average down a twisty forest road. Whoa!
2. You'll get to see a 300 hp Mitsu AWD sedan of
some sort going like
gangbusters, and sounding like a machine gun when the
wastegates or BOV or
whatever start popping at high rpm. This particular car
is the NZ rally
champion in Class A (not the faster Open class, like
Sprongl's Quattro).
3. At the very end, you'll see Sprongl spin the
most amazing doughnuts in
his Audi Quattro. He spins that sucker around in
its own length three times
as fast as Zanardi spins the CART car, with all
four wheels just a'smokin!
I've never seen anything like it. Wonder if we can
do that in our VR4s?
I'd like to find an early VR4 cheap, pull out the
drivetrain, mod it up to
about 600 hp, install it in a 1500 lb Mitsu sedan,
and then take my
homemade Group B rally car and go kick some butt on the pro
rally circuit.
Or maybe run Pikes Peak. It's been many years since my last
major rally
(the Press on Regardless FIA world championship), but I've always
wanted to
do it again...this time with something a little faster than my
old
stock-engined Datsun 510. I'll bet, with all the expertise on this list,
we
could solve all the little technical problems, such as increasing
the
ground clearance.
Sigh. Nostalgia just isn't what it used to
be.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
1. Alas, I checked the Speedvision listing for next
week. Although it was
on 417 times this week (I watched it twice), it's not
on at all next week.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 08:18:59
1999
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Team3S: Air Ducts
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Hey Merrit (would use Rich but there's more'n
one);
Did you by any chance photo your air scoops/ducts setup
to your
brakes? If yes, is there anywhere we can go to see the
pics?
Best
Darc
------
=_NextPart_000_01BE8421.5DFB73A0
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I put a set of Pirelli P7000s on a few years ago.
They were about $800 =
and have a good wear rating. I chose them over
Gatorbacks as I heard =
they were very noisy. These were great the
first 10,000 miles, but have =
become louder in the past few months.
Tread still looks good but I seem =
to get some vibration if the car sits for
more than a day - almost like =
the old nylon tires. Had em balanced
but not much help. Any other =
experience on these tires?
=20
Pete
91 VR4
I've got Goodyears on mine, wear is good, but he
NOISE. the BF Goodrich =
TA's are good choice too. One of the car
mags (can't rememeber which) =
did an article last month on high-speed tires
and the Goodrich's were =
one of the best (wear, noise, & cost) along
with the new Michelins (but =
they cost a whole lot more than
others).=20
--
On Sat, 10 Apr 1999 21:11:40 Omar Malik
wrote:
>Take a look at Nitto tires like the 555 extreme or whatever it's
=
called.
>Pretty good wear ratings. Above 300 if i'm not
mistaken.
>
>Omar
>92 r/t
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Paul T. =
Golley
>Sent: Saturday, April 10, 1999 7:13
PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
>
>
>Hello All-
>I
have 26K miles on my VR-4 245/40-ZR-18 tires, and they are bald.
>(Yoko
A028s, I think.) They have really good cornering traction.
I
>want to replace them with a tire that has nearly as good
cornering
>ability, but doesn't wear so fast. I don't care about wet
traction, =
braking
>traction, temperature and the like. Does
anyone have experience with =
tires
>of this size that meet my
desires? I live in the south, and don't need
>all-season
performance. I have an affinity for Michelin, and I think
>the Pilot
SX MXX3 would be fine, but they are a little pricey to have
>such a low
wear rating (about 160 I think). Helpful comments
>from anyone will
be much appreciated.
>Regards, ptg
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
------
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE8421.5DFB73A0--
At 08:16 AM 4/11/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hey Merrit
(would use Rich but there's more'n one);
There ain't more than one Rich Merritt, I hope.
And
there certainly ain't more than one Old Poop.
>
>Did you by any
chance photo your air scoops/ducts setup to your
>brakes? If yes, is there
anywhere we can go to see the pics?
>
Nope.
Sorry.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 12:55:58
1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 12:51:24
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hey, Paul, and all,
I've got the Nitto 450 Extreme Performance (V-rated)
and they're great!
They seem to wear like iron, they're quiet, and they
corner like I'm in a
slot car... Big 'thumbs-up' on these tires--
I'll buy them again next time
around...
BTW, Dave Kopacz posted this chart from a survey of 22
other 3Si members on
the Starnet list (over a year ago...); it's hard to read
(and Nitto tires
aren't on it), but here it is...:
# of DRY PAYMENT WET PAYMENT TOTAL
BRAND
/ MODEL RESP
HNDLG BRAKE HNDLG BRAKE SCORE
MILEAGE
---------------------- ---- ----- -----
----- ----- ----- -------
Michelin
XGTZ
3 A
A A
A 4.0 18-20K
Yokohama
A-028
1 A
A A
B 3.8 40K
BF
Goodrich Comp TA 2
A A
A- A-
3.7 20K
Goodyear Eagle
GSC 3
B+ B+
A A
3.6 37K
Goodyear
GS-D
1 B
B A
A 3.6
Dunlop SP
8000
3 A
A B+
B+ 3.5 20K
Yokohama
AVS-Intermed 1
A A
B B
3.5
Pirelli P7000 SS
1 B
B A
A 3.5 10K
Pirelli
Winter
1 C+ C+
A A
3.2 30K
Goodyear
Gatorback 3
A- A- B-
B- 3.0 20-30K
Goodyear Eagle
GT 1
A+ A+
D D
2.7 20K
Pirelli
P600Z
2 B- B-
C D+
2.1 20K
Best,
Forrest
-----Original Message-----From: Omar Malik <ojm@iname.com>
|Take a look at Nitto tires
like the 555 extreme or whatever it's called.
|Pretty good wear ratings.
Above 300 if i'm not mistaken.
|
|-----Original Message-----
|[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Paul T. Golley
|
|Hello All-
|I have 26K miles on my VR-4
245/40-ZR-18 tires, and they are bald.
|(Yoko A028s, I think.) They
have really good cornering traction. I
|want to replace them with a
tire that has nearly as good cornering
|ability, but doesn't wear so
fast. I don't care about wet traction,
braking
|traction,
temperature and the like. Does anyone have experience with tires
|of
this size that meet my desires? I live in the south, and don't
need
|all-season performance. I have an affinity for Michelin, and I
think
|the Pilot SX MXX3 would be fine, but they are a little pricey to
have
|such a low wear rating (about 160 I think). Helpful
comments
|from anyone will be much appreciated.
|Regards,
ptg
|
|
|For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
|
I have a few 92 3000gt parts I need to get rid of
for a cheap price. I
have two heads for an NA, a loaded red passenger door,
an NA rear
spoiler, rear right quarter panel, quarter glass, rear bumper, and
tail
lights. If anyone is intersted e-mail me privetly.
Thanks,
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 14:09:11
1999
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Date:
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> ONLY ONE CAVIAT - he (Vineet) states you must own
a manual before buying his
> back-up on CD - I'm sure that's a legal
protection thing on his parte.
Yes, this is right. Oh, by the way ... I lend mine to a
friend for years. Got
the point ?
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 14:17:22
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
References:
<008701be83b6$f30489c0$245cd8cd@sjiredff>
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I never got warped rotors with the bigger EU ones. I
had to replace the fron
rotors beginning 98 and also necer had a problem with
them. But they started to
fade sooo extremely quick taht braking at 150mph
became very dangerous. I then
jumped onto a GP on GT Rotors, not slotted nor
cd but dimpled. They immediatly
stopped better, especially in rain. But after
the first two hard brakings from
very high speeds they got heavily warped and
never returned to the good way !
The Stillen ones are the same but
crossdrilled and also cinc washed. Also the
PowerSlot are the very same but
slotted and, afaik, not cinc washed.
I finally went the expensive way and bought the
Swiss/Italian Bremsa cd/slotted
discs mounted on aluminum hubs. In fact they
are not really crossdrilled because
the holes where already in the core and
are jsut finished afterwards. The
combination with the German Pagid RS
(orange) pads works very good on stops but
I also got a warped feeling after
hard brakings. But the warping goes away when
they are heated up as well as
when braking very hard. Due to the slots you'll
get a very loud grinding
sound when breaking down from very high speeds. For
pictures or more go to my
brakes page.
I still haven't tested the very new Mevius miu-pads as
they seem to be more
resistant to the slotted rotors than the Pagids. I just
hope to find time to do
everything I want on my car ;-)
For a real good setup (the 2nd best) choose the
$$$-Porsche setup or a Brembo
that works. Unfortunately the Brembo setup from
Stillen uses their own rotors
and they are not that good. Also they do have
some problems with their kit for
our cars (some work properly some not). The
best is a conversion with ap 6-pod
calipers and huge discs from the Nissan
Skyline. This is the best you can get if
your wallet is about $6000 or more
thick. The Porsche setup from Mov-It is
available for about $3000 only
front,
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html.
The link to the 3000GT setup is
not valid as they do not have the pictures
ready but the kit is available.
BTW, the Bremsas work wonders in the rear ! My brakings
on the test-track 2
weeks ago where better than on every other car (track was
wet)
Good braking,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 14:28:57
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Date:
Sun, 11 Apr 1999 14:27:49 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Team3S: Re: Extended Warranty Company
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Jason Timmons wrote (on Starnet List):
>Anyway, here I am without an extended warranty on a
4 year old
>vehicle. [snip]
>Does anyone know a reputable extended
warranty company that
>will cover our cars?
ATTN: EVERYONE
I too am looking for an aftermarket warranty! If
any of you
know anything about where I can purchase one for a decent
price
PLEASE let me know. My local dealership wants almost
$3000, and this is
quite out of my budget. Allstate does not
sell warranties in Washington
State, and Auto Advantage stopped
selling warranties for the VR4. I
have been told that many other
companies also have stopped covering the VR4
(I wonder why...)
even though these companies still sell warranties for
Porsches
and Ferraris. If I cannot find an aftermarket warranty I
will
certainly sell my car in the near future.
Thanks to anyone who can help.
--Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA
94 VR4
Thanks to everybody who responded to my Gremlin
syndrome :)
Unfortunately, the problem cannot be reproduced and my
test-drives didn't showed
anything abnormal.
One important thing to mention is the BOV setup. I
still have the HKS S-BOV
installed but after the rebuild I changed some very
small. Due to the huge
amount of oil in the intake parts (including the
manifold) I had to clean
everything (the solenoids of the Blitz where totally
soaked but still worked
perfectly) During this procedure I removed the small
air filter in the hose
between the manifold and the BOV as it was soaked from
oil. Since then, it seems
that the BOV acts too quick, opening and closing
and the filter makes this
somewhat slower. I never thought about this when
searching the odd behavior of
the cruise control when it goes up to the
preset speed and releases the throttle
when reached it. At this time the car
seems to have a short hesitation and this
changed slightly after readjusting
the BOV. I now installed this filter again to
see how it acts
then.
I keep you updated,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 14:43:37
1999
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999
17:43:31 -0400
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
"Neil H. Jablonski" <captkirk@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Cruise and throttle position sensor
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Hi all,
I had a few questions about my cruise control not
working.
I followed the diagnostic procedure for cruise control
in the shop manual.
I got one long pulse and then four (4) short pulses,
which indicates a
fault. Problem is, there is no code like that in the
book. It goes from 3
short to 5 short.
Because it is acting like another car I used to have
(it had a bad TPS), I
decided to check the throttle position
sensor. I checked it, and it does
not always come back to the same
resistance, making me think its bad. Has
anyone measured a bad
one? I called and a TPS is about $150, so I want to
be sure before I
replace it.
Does anyone happen to know if these two items could be
related?
Thanks in advance,
Neil
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 17:14:24
1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<s70a8e59.003@corp.ultratech.com>
<3.0.3.32.19990407195519.006baa94@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Wheels/Tire Combo Question -Reply
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 19:09:35
-0500
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the t/a kd is the street tire
the t/a r1 is the
racing (shaved) tire
AFAIK
> >The BF
> >Goodrich G-Force T/A
KD's run for about $300 a pop..
>
> I hope you realize those G-Force
tires come shaved, which is why they win
> all the tire tests.
>
You'll only get about 157 street miles out of them.
>
> If I'm
wrong, please tell me, because that's why I'm not buying them.
>
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 18:25:36
1999
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Sun, 11 Apr 1999 17:25:22 -0800
From: "Terry Swift" <tlswift@hotbot.com>
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Re: Extended Warranty Company
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Here's the Fax # ((714)-934-7604) for Mitsubishi Motor
Sales of America - Mr. Pierre Gagnon, CEO. Let him know the state of
affairs with the 3k - the more we let these guys know what's up, then we're
closer to getting an answer from them about the car.
--
On Sun, 11 Apr 1999 14:27:49 Errin Humphrey
wrote:
>Jason Timmons wrote (on Starnet List):
>
>>Anyway,
here I am without an extended warranty on a 4 year old
>>vehicle.
[snip]
>>Does anyone know a reputable extended warranty company
that
>>will cover our cars?
>
>ATTN:
EVERYONE
>
>I too am looking for an aftermarket warranty! If
any of you
>know anything about where I can purchase one for a
decent
>price PLEASE let me know. My local dealership wants
almost
>$3000, and this is quite out of my budget. Allstate does
not
>sell warranties in Washington State, and Auto Advantage
stopped
>selling warranties for the VR4. I have been told that many
other
>companies also have stopped covering the VR4 (I wonder
why...)
>even though these companies still sell warranties for
Porsches
>and Ferraris. If I cannot find an aftermarket warranty I
will
>certainly sell my car in the near future.
>
>Thanks to
anyone who can help.
>
>--Errin Humphrey
>Seattle,
WA
>94 VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 18:46:33
1999
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From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Cruise and throttle position sensor
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999
19:51:51 -0600
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Neil,
> Because it is acting like another car I used to
have (it had a
> bad TPS), I
> decided to check the throttle
position sensor. I checked it, and it does
> not always come back to
the same resistance, making me think its bad. Has
> anyone measured
a bad one? I called and a TPS is about $150, so I want to
> be sure
before I replace it.
I had to replace my TPS a few months ago. I was
getting very bad fuel cut
at any RPM above 2000. It was weird because
if you let the car sit
overnight and drove it around the next day it would be
fine until you turned
it off and restarted it. I went to the dealership
and had the problem
checked out because my engine light was on and I didn't
know how to read the
codes. I have a bad TPS sitting in my garage if
you would like to know the
readings off of it.
Paul Horschel
93VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 18:55:52
1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Blitz rims for sale
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:01:13
-0600
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Hello all,
I recently came across an ad while looking around on
the internet. It
sounds like an excellent deal and since I am not in
the market for 17's I
thought I would pass it on to one of you
guys.
4 17X8 Blitz Type 03 polished $500 plus
shipping
914-621-0973(two piece wheel with split 5 spoke design-I
think)
It says they will fits all 3000GT's including VR4's
offset for the calipers.
It also said they fit 300Z's and the Eclipse.
I think the ad said it was in
New York. I could find the ad again if
you needed it. Hope this works out
for one of you.
Paul Horschel
93VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 19:11:27
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 21:10:58
-0500
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I put a set of Pirelli P7000s on a few years ago.
They were about $800 and
have a good wear rating. I chose them over
Gatorbacks as I heard they were
very noisy. These were great the first
10,000 miles, but have become louder
in the past few months. Tread
still looks good but I seem to get some
vibration if the car sits for more
than a day - almost like the old nylon
tires. Had em balanced but not
much help. Any other experience on these
tires?
Pete
Thanks for the response!
Regards,
ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 19:30:27
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 21:29:56
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>Hey, Paul, and all,
>I've got the Nitto 450
Extreme Performance (V-rated) and they're great!
>They seem to wear like
iron, they're quiet, and they corner like I'm in a
>slot car... Big
'thumbs-up' on these tires-- I'll buy them again
next
time
>around...>
Bob-
Thanks for the input. Yes, I remember
the past survey you
mentioned. The only discouraging thing I remember
about it
was that A028 Yokos were said to last 40K miles, while mine
have
been "gone" since about 23K. But, I respect your
comments on the
Nittos. I just hope you corner as hard as I do. I
don't race
(usually), and don't brake severely, and don't try anything in
the
rain, so cornering and wear are primary issues with me.
Regards,
ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 19:31:19
1999
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Three" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: '92 heads on a '93 ??
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I have an opportunity to buy a set of heads from a
'92. Now if I buy
these and have them blueprinted and polished, will I
be able to use them
on my '93 (build date 6/92 )?? Both are DOHC NA
engines.
I understand what extrusion is and I have honed a
number of cylinder
walls during an overhaul, but can someone explain extrude
honing to me
please?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 19:40:10
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Please recommend ... PowerSlot
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 21:31:40
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I haven't had my Powerslot's warp yet. I had to
have my stock ones turned
about as much as I changed the oil! They
work great and have had no
problems.
>> Powerslot rotors and my K&K FIPK is on the
way.
>
>Doran, good luck with the rotors ! Let us know how long it
takes until
they
get
>warped. What pads are you using with them
?
Doran, Roger, et-al-
Please post your experience
with brake rotors (front, I guess).
I have 26K miles on my '95 VR-4
rotors, and they have been
heavily warped for 24K of these miles. Does
anyone know of a
REAL cure for this problem at ANY price? Surely, with
18 inch
wheels, a 14 inch set of rotors could be made which would
not
warp!? Thanks for any info!
Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 20:01:07
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: In Bad Need of Help on Tires!
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 22:00:37
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>Take a look at Nitto tires like the 555 extreme or
whatever it's called.
>Pretty good wear ratings. Above 300 if i'm not
mistaken.
Omar-
Thanks for the input!
Regards,
ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 20:01:34
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: '92 heads on a '93 ??
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 20:02:31
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The extrude hone process forces a thick abrasive
substance through the piece
being honed. It is usually but not
necessarily used on irregular shapes
where it may be a difficult reach with
conventional tools. It is not a
selective process meaning it smoothes
out pretty much anything in the path
of the substrate.
It works great on things like plenum runners and
already shaped passges
which have a rough surface. Likely not
appropriate for intake or exhaust
ports or runners which really need to be
hand shaped for proper flow. I
suppose it could be applied in those
areas after hand shaping had been done
but it would be cheaper to just have
them hand polished.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I
have an opportunity to buy a set of heads from a '92. Now if I buy
>
these and have them blueprinted and polished, will I be able to use them
>
on my '93 (build date 6/92 )?? Both are DOHC NA engines.
>
> I
understand what extrusion is and I have honed a number of cylinder
> walls
during an overhaul, but can someone explain extrude honing to me
>
please?
>
>
> TIA,
> Lynn
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 20:26:25
1999
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From: "Paul T.
Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Concequences of Cat Removal
Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 22:25:54
-0500
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>> I know how to reset the ECU. But my
question is what does
>> cat removal cause the ECU to do to engine
operation? Does
>> it run richer, leaner, or what? Does it
do different things
>> depending on whether you have OBDI versus
OBDII?
>I can only speak to the first generation
ECU's... perhaps someone else can
comment on
>the latter edition.
I have found main cat removal (I still have precats)
gives
an
>occasional small backfire when letting off the gas under
aggressive
acceleration. This
>is the unburnt gas/vapour
which is normally handled by the main cat and it
is is not a
>problem,
as no problem in operation has ever been detected. I understand
that this
even
>occurs with cat back installations, so perhaps a slightly rich
situation
occurs with our
>cars under normal conditions. Other than
this there is no detectable glitch
with the car
>or ECU,
and the ECU adjustments (if any) for the cat's absence seem to
have
it
>running in top form. . I have been running from Day One this way with
no
detectable
>problem.
Darc-
Thanks! This is exactly the info I
wanted.
Regards, ptg
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 11 21:52:17
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Date:
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From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
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> If you are talking NOS, then you aren't really
getting it
> into the 11's because of the stock turbos. NOS should
get
> you easily into the 11's, but that's sorta cheating...
If
> the point is to make the stock turbos go elevens, then do
> it
with the turbos, and not some other horsepower trick.
> -Matt
I'm not sure he's trying to get into the 11s
because of stock turbos,
more like WITH stock turbos. I despise NOS,
mainly because you can't
drive the car 24/7 with NOS, so it's kinda like
cheating to me if it's
used in a street race, same goes for slicks.
However, Andrew should be
encouraged to do whatever he wants to do with his
car. It matters not
what makes us happy, it's his car and I fully
encourage him to make
himself happy. The point is whether it can be
done with stock turbos,
that makes room for ANY mod other than turbos.
I'd rather see 11s done
on stock turbos without NOS, but it's his car
and we should support him
in his decisions.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 04:48:26
1999
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Message-ID: <3711D05E.4E7FFA6D@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Mon, 12 Apr 1999 12:52:14 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Disabling Fuel Pump
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> Can anyone confirm this on the 3S for sure? I t
sure would be easier than the
> standard "open the fuel pump access
in the trunk and disconnect it there"
> described
earlier?
I already posted a description to this the last days.
But I haven't tried it out
myself yet. I do not have the post on my laptop
and also I don't know if it came
though. I can check this
evening.
Later,
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 04:48:38
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cruise and throttle position sensor
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Due to the amount of oil in the TB the TPS started to
begin sending bogus
information. But my mechanic told me that it is cleanable
and they did during
the rebuild. Sure, I have to clean it again as the ICs
where still full of oil
:( Maybe this can also be another the cause for the
little Gremlins I currently
have in my car.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 04:59:30
1999
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Re: Team3S: '92 heads on a '93 ??
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As far as porting/polishing goes, I'd reccomend JG
engine dynamics. They
are the common thread of all the fast Hondas and
Eclipse/Talon/Lasers.
If you check out Nexus motorsport's home page, they
have a listing for
the headwork as well as DPR valves and
springs.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 05:18:20
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Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:19:57 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: '92 heads on a '93 ??
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> It works great on things like plenum runners and
already shaped passges
> which have a rough surface. Likely not
appropriate for intake or exhaust
> ports or runners which really need to
be hand shaped for proper flow. I
> suppose it could be applied in
those areas after hand shaping had been done
> but it would be cheaper to
just have them hand polished.
I do not fully agree with the term polished. During my
physics year I learned
that the flow speed at the wall (like runners or a
ships body) is not the same
than in a distance of it. This is why the skin of
a dolphin or a shark (ouch)
doesn't feel that sleek than expected when
touching them. The same belongs to
the intake and exhaust parts that are
involved in the flowing path. After a good
extrude honing job or hand
grinding, the parts do not look like polished but
would work very good.
Polishing them to mirror shine looks soooo sexy but
acually can hurt the flow
characteristic. Yes, this sounds strange but is true.
We had a buddy on the
Camaro list that put some great heads onto his LT1 and
gained a lot. As they
didn't looked like a $600 job he really polished them and
put them back to
the car. Unfortunately he lost some torque then and finally
went back to the
shop to slow test them and they showed smaller flow-figures
than before the
polishing.
I think it's very important to make the valve seats as
good and the surface of
them as smooth as possible. Also our intake runners
and intake plenum would gain
of a better surface as the stock one is really
rough and can produce a small
reduction in air-velocity. Also the heads will
gain of this work. But work on
them until they feel smooth for the fingers
and do not try to polish them. This
will not look that good, particulary like
a 3rd grade grinder job, but they work
as supposed.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 06:11:18
1999
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Subject:
Team3S: To those who have done a rear diff. oil change on a '93 TT
Date: Mon,
12 Apr 1999 07:14:27 -0600
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I am about to move to Redline fluids on my '93
RT/TT. The owners manual =
states the rear diff. holds .74qts, but the
shop manual states 1.16qts. =
>From the people who have done this,
how much did the rear diff. actually =
take? I only have 1 qt of the
rear diff gear oil, so I don't want to =
change it unless I know I have
enough.
Also, for the life of me, I can't find the torque
specs for the =
transfer case filler and drain plugs. The torques for
the transmission =
appear to be 18-22ft/lbs (filler) and 5.4 ft/lbs drain
plug (seems a =
little low). The rear diff specs appear to be 36 ft/lbs
(filler) and =
43-51 ft/lbs (drain). If someone could confirm these and
let me know =
the transfer case filler/drain plug specs it would be greatly
=
appreciated.
Thanks,
Brent M.
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE84B4.1A057EA0
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HTML//EN">
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<HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
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4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I am about
to move to Redline fluids on =
my '93=20
RT/TT. The owners
manual states the rear diff. holds .74qts, but =
the shop=20
manual states
1.16qts. From the people who have done this, how =
much
did=20
the rear diff. actually take? I only have 1 qt of the rear
diff =
gear oil,=20
so I don't want to change it unless I know I have
enough.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Also, for the life of me, I can't =
find
the=20
torque specs for the transfer case filler and drain plugs.
The =
torques for=20
the transmission appear to be 18-22ft/lbs (filler)
and 5.4 ft/lbs drain =
plug=20
(seems a little low). The rear
diff specs appear to be 36 ft/lbs =
(filler)=20
and 43-51 ft/lbs
(drain). If someone could confirm these and let =
me know=20
the
transfer case filler/drain plug specs it would be
greatly=20
appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Brent
M.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BE84B4.1A057EA0--
Roger,
I understand and concur with smooth is better than
polish for flow
rates. It is easier to just use the term polished. Besides
better flow,
you also get better mixing which is important to carburetor or
instream
injection by providing a uniform air/fuel charge to the cylinders.
I
seem to remember reading that a glass beaded type surface in the
intake
path was preferable to polished.
I know this is a little bit of mixing subjects, but are
the '92 heads
interchangeable with the '93 heads??
Regards,
Lynn
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> they [smooth] showed
smaller flow-figures than before the polishing.
>
> I think it's
very important to make the valve seats as good and the surface of
> them
as smooth as possible. Also our intake runners and intake plenum would
gain
> of a better surface as the stock one is really rough and can
produce a small
> reduction in air-velocity. Also the heads will gain of
this work. But work on
> them until they feel smooth for the fingers and
do not try to polish them. This
> will not look that good, particulary
like a 3rd grade grinder job, but they work
> as supposed.
>
> Regards,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT (polishing the headers ...
on the outside)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 07:01:04
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: '92 heads on a '93 ??
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 07:02:13
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Roger,
I didn't mention mirror polishing, which I agree (and
have even talked about
here before) is likely a waste of time. However,
the process of dressing a
rough cut surface with finer abrasives is called
polishing, at least in the
circles I am in. The degree of polish is at
issue.
Extrude honing does not leave a mirror finish but is
MUCH smoother than a
"ground" finish. Think of a stone ground
surface versus an finer abrasive
paper finish (a "polish").
The finer grit paper finish is smoother but not
necessarily a mirror
surface.
Surface tension on the wall of a port runner for
instance accounts for less
than 1% of the total fluid flow according to the
person who did my heads.
He mentions that surface texture is not as important
as it once was. Modern
injector designs now dump fuel directly into the
intake port at the valve.
With a carbureted engine it was more important to
maintain a homogenous
air/fuel mixture and a rougher surface was
desirable. In his experience the
mirror polish for an injected engine
isn't worse, but simply isn't worth the
added expense from the numerous hours
required to get that mirror-like
finish.
In any case, I did not intend to imply nor promote
mirror polishing and
especially not that extrude honing leaves a mirror
finish. I haven't ever
seen an extrude honed piece that came out
looking mirror polished so if it
is possible it is news to me.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> > It
works great on things like plenum runners and already shaped passges
>
> which have a rough surface. Likely not appropriate for intake
>
or exhaust
> > ports or runners which really need to be hand shaped for
proper flow. I
> > suppose it could be applied in those areas
after hand shaping
> had been done
> > but it would be cheaper to
just have them hand polished.
>
> I do not fully agree with the term
polished. During my physics
> year I learned
> that the flow speed
at the wall (like runners or a ships body) is
> not the same
> than
in a distance of it. This is why the skin of a dolphin or a
> shark
(ouch)
> doesn't feel that sleek than expected when touching them.
The
> same belongs to
> the intake and exhaust parts that are
involved in the flowing
> path. After a good
> extrude honing job or
hand grinding, the parts do not look like
> polished but
> would
work very good. Polishing them to mirror shine looks soooo sexy but
>
acually can hurt the flow characteristic. Yes, this sounds
> strange but
is true.
<snip>
>
> Regards,
> Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 08:00:32
1999
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Message-ID: <37120A72.A6D9383D@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Mon, 12 Apr 1999 17:00:02 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: '92 heads on a '93 ??
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> I didn't mention mirror polishing, which I agree
(and have even talked about
> here before) is likely a waste of
time. However, the process of dressing a
> rough cut surface with
finer abrasives is called polishing, at least in the
> circles I am
in.
Ahh, sorry for my bad understanding. My intention was
polishing = mirror shine
on my newly painted fenders, hehe. I got it
!
> Extrude honing does not leave a mirror finish but
is MUCH smoother than a
> "ground" finish. Think of a
stone ground surface versus an finer abrasive
> paper finish (a
"polish"). The finer grit paper finish is smoother but
not
> necessarily a mirror surface.
Yes, absolutely my words (but I have to use a
dictionary sometimes)
> In any case, I did not intend to imply nor promote
mirror polishing and
> especially not that extrude honing leaves a mirror
finish. I haven't ever
> seen an extrude honed piece that came out
looking mirror polished so if it
> is possible it is news to
me.
I saw V8 heads that where CNC machined and polished
afterwards. I became almost
blind due to the lights mirring in them. Barry,
it was me that understud the
word polishing wrong ! Let's call this
mirror-finish and polishing "making an
appropriate smooth
surface".
Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
> I know this is a little bit of mixing subjects,
but are the '92 heads
> interchangeable with the '93 heads??
At least the european ones are as I can't see any
difference even between any
year.
Barry, what do yX-Mozilla-Status:
0009Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 08:01:38
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> I didn't mention mirror polishing, which I agree
(and have even talked about
> here before) is likely a waste of
time. However, the process of dressing a
> rough cut surface with
finer abrasives is called polishing, at least in the
> circles I am
in.
Ahh, sorry for my bad understanding. My intention was
polishing = mirror shine
on my newly painted fenders, hehe. I got it
!
> Extrude honing does not leave a mirror finish but
is MUCH smoother than a
> "ground" finish. Think of a
stone ground surface versus an finer abrasive
> paper finish (a
"polish"). The finer grit paper finish is smoother but
not
> necessarily a mirror surface.
Yes, absolutely my words (but I have to use a
dictionary sometimes)
> In any case, I did not intend to imply nor promote
mirror polishing and
> especially not that extrude honing leaves a mirror
finish. I haven't ever
> seen an extrude honed piece that came out
looking mirror polished so if it
> is possible it is news to
me.
I saw V8 heads that where CNC machined and polished
afterwards. I became almost
blind due to the lights mirring in them. Barry,
it was me that understud the
word polishing wrong ! Let's call this
mirror-finish and polishing "making an
appropriate smooth
surface".
Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 08:32:45
1999
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: octane boost in NA's -Reply
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Can you recommend a good one?
Thanks,
Gavin
You can use a good fuel system cleaner every 30k or
so.
This will remove carbon deposits on the valves while cleaning
the
injectors.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 08:44:01
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Records for stock turbos? (was weight stripping)
Date: Mon,
12 Apr 1999 10:43:56 -0500
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> I'm not sure he's trying to get into
the 11s because of stock turbos,
> more like WITH stock turbos. I
despise NOS, mainly because you can't
> drive the car 24/7 with NOS, so
it's kinda like cheating to me if it's
> used in a street race, same goes
for slicks. However, Andrew should be
> encouraged to do whatever he
wants to do with his car. It matters not
> what makes us happy, it's
his car and I fully encourage him to make
> himself happy. The point
is whether it can be done with stock turbos,
> that makes room for ANY mod
other than turbos. I'd rather see 11s done
> on stock turbos
without NOS, but it's his car and we should support him
> in his
decisions.
Certainly it is his car and he can do with it as he
pleases... I would only
say that caution is warranted as it is really
tempting to keep putting on
bigger nozzles until the engine grenades...
:-) I think the point I was
trying to make was that it would be way
easy to get in the 11's with NOS and
not really much of a
challenge.
-Matt
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 08:55:21
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Extended Warranty Company
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 08:54:30
-0700
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>
>I too am looking for an aftermarket
warranty! If any of you
>know anything about where I can purchase
one for a decent
>price PLEASE let me know. My local dealership
wants almost
>$3000, and this is quite out of my budget
No direct help, but, I bought a 93 Stealth TT in Dec.
98 and
purchased, through the used car dealer, a 4/48 bumper to
bumper
for $2000. The only phone number I have is through
an outfit called Warranty
Administration Corp. in Denver.
Their # is 1-800-455-4065. They may be able
to tell you how
to contact the company that provides the
insurance.
good luck Jim Berry
Saturday, the 10th
26 degrees F
Wind: SW 8
mph
Runs were done South to north, following the marker lines left from the
land speed
record attempts.
BTW we once again stuck the (inacurate
albeit), speedo at 176 mph. I love the salt
flats. However in 2
minutes we consumed roughly 1/4 tank of gas at that speed.
Went out to Bonnevile this weekend, pulling the VR-4 on
the new trailer, and the bikes
in Joey's Full Size Chevy. All these
times were measured on GTECH PRO, which was
borrowed from a friend's
prelude. Here is the setup.
Much care was taken to ensure the proper installation
of the GTECH, but it's accuracy
could be well debated I'm sure. Here
are the circumstances....
The salt is not quite as hard as it used to be and
there has been some recent snow so it
was slightly damp, allowing for
abosolutely incredible traction. It hooked up like you
couldn't
understand.
Mods:
Bleeder Valve, halfway open (about
15PSI)
No filter, no bottom half of airbox.
Stock exhaust, test
pipe.
Full interior removal, one seat at 12lbs. No dash, rear spoiler
removed, tape placed
over the holes.
Front active aero skirt
removal.
Removed: Headlight motors, and lamps. Passenger
side completely removed. $8 Wal-mart
dryer hose to air intake mod...
yes I know this was a sorry excuse.
IC's were sprayed with water, which iced
over in minutes, and we found was actually
hindering our times. Any Ideas why
this might be?
Time 13.0 @ 106
We wasted alot of time dinking
around on the bikes
98' GSX-R 750 10.9 @128
TS 168 mph (@redline)
326
miles
396lbs
Bone stock
97'
YZF-100
3900 miles
Pipe/Headers
Jet kit
Drilled out carbs
K&N
Filter Kit
AFAM kit,
Rear sprocket
change - 2 teeth
Yes it wheelies in 3rd now.
10.6
@132
TS 156 mph (@ redline)
The times ont the VR-4 continued to get better with
each run, however, some police
officers showed up to escort us off the Salt
Flats. The thing that is nice is that we
acheived thirteen oh for a
ZERO budget wooohoo, well I know it isn't that fast, but I'm
pretty darn
proud. WE are going to try to get to a real track, and actually measure
our
times. Only 2 more seconds to go. I think we can get anouther
1/2 second out of this
setup. Next on the chopping block... A/C, Cruise
Control. Next Upgrade: Air Filter.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 09:34:15
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Ahh some good news...
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 11:34:03
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> Much care was taken to ensure the proper
installation of the
> GTECH, but it's accuracy could be well debated I'm
sure. Here
> are the circumstances....
I've noticed that the GTech is a little bit optimistic,
however not overly
so. About .1-.2 optimistic in the 1/4 and 2-4 MPH as
well. I think that
comes at least partially from our AWD cars tending
to pull the rear down and
the front up which adds a little more g-force to
the accelerometer in the
GTech due to the effects of gravity since the device
is no longer perfectly
level.
It gets worse with motorcycles if you bring the front
end up at all but if
you are careful you can get decent readings, although at
the track you
aren't very likely to be that cautious -- resulting in better
times. :-)
Overall it is a pretty good tool considering the price
and ease of use in
multiple vehicles. I'd buy another
one...
-Matt
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 09:43:43
1999
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From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
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Re: Team3S: Ahh some good news...
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I was impressed it was a fun toy, the times were really
off when we would wheelie. Joey
(who has perfected his 1/4 mile
wheelie) got it to read a time of 4.66 , while at
pulling a standup.
What would that be 418mph??? yeah that was pretty acurate reading
hehe.
We had alot of fun even if the times aren't "real". Ive if they
are off by .2 or
.5 They are still times I am proud of
Matt Jannusch wrote:
> I've noticed that the GTech is a little bit
optimistic, however not overly
> so. About .1-.2 optimistic in the
1/4 and 2-4 MPH as well. I think that
> comes at least partially
from our AWD cars tending to pull the rear down and
-snip-
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 09:55:35
1999
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ahh some good news... (was Records for stock turbos)
Date: Mon,
12 Apr 1999 09:54:44 -0700
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>Runs were done South to north, following the
marker lines left from the
land speed
>record attempts.
>BTW we
once again stuck the (inacurate albeit), speedo at 176 mph. I love
the
salt
>flats. However in 2 minutes we consumed roughly 1/4 tank of
gas at that
speed.
>
>Went out to Bonnevile this weekend, pulling
the VR-4 on the new trailer,
>IC's were sprayed with water, which iced
over in minutes, and we found was
actually
>hindering our times. Any
Ideas why this might be?
>
Sounds like fun to me :-) my
last speed endeavor ended in a ticket :-(
He only got me for 15 over actual
speed was 95. Aborted speed run earlier
was 140. A loud whining noise coming
from the passenger seat forced me
to reconsider my choice of speed. Next time
I'll try it alone.
As to IC problems --- if they were indeed icing up then
the air flow through
them would be restricted thus reducing the cooling
affect.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 11:12:09
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:11:49 -0500
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ahh some good news... (was Records for stock turbos)
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So what's the deal with the Salt Flats. Is it
private property? National
Park-type place where you need a permit to
run? Other? Why did the cops
"escort" you
off?
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held
it's ground.
On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, Andrew Brilliant
wrote:
[snip]
> The times ont the VR-4 continued to get better with
each run, however,
> some police officers showed up to escort us off the
Salt Flats. The
> thing that is nice is that
we
[snip]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 12:08:31
1999
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Date:
Mon, 12 Apr 1999 12:08:06 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization:
General Atomics - Fusion Division
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Recently, the battery on my '91 VR4 died. Since
then, the damned SRS
light has remained on. The
'turn-the-ignition-on-ten-times' procedure
has not worked the numerous times
I've tried it. Is there a trick with
this procedure? I tried it
by turning my turbo timer off during the
procedure.
Do I really have to pay the dealer $50 to turn this
light off? The
dealer says he HAS to hook it up to his diagnostic
computer, and can
only reset it AFTER system diagnostics have been
performed. Seems silly
to me, is this true? Is there another
procedure I can do?
Thanks,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a right,
but three lefts do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 12:11:32
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ahh some good news... (was Records for stock
turbos)
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It's a National park. But they only allow racing a few
times a year for only
a month or so. Possibly he was on there out of
season...
AWESOME place to take your car. Of course as long as
you don't mind
getting a little salt kicked up on the paint...
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net> 04/12/99 02:11pm
>>>
So what's the deal with the Salt Flats. Is it private
property? National
Park-type place where you need a permit to
run? Other? Why did the
cops
"escort" you
off?
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held
it's ground.
On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, Andrew Brilliant
wrote:
[snip]
> The times ont the VR-4 continued to get better with
each run, however,
> some police officers showed up to escort us off the
Salt Flats. The
> thing that is nice is that
we
[snip]
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Errin,
If your car is still under
warrantee, you should consider an extended warrantee from
Mitsubishi. I
purchased an extended warrantee for my Stealth three days before the
original
one expired from Chrysler Service Contracts. Normal cost for the warrantee
was
$1800, but I got it for $1600, because they misquoted the price to
me. This $1600 has
purchased be a $4500 transmission so far, and
probably another one before the warrantee
is up. I personally like the
Manufacturer warrantee, because if the service manager
thinks it is broken,
their is no second guessing by the warrantee company. This
warrantee
was for 7 years/70k miles, with $100 deductible. If your car is out
of
warrantee, you are going to have a lot of problems finding someone to
cover it.
Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
Errin Humphrey wrote:
> Jason Timmons wrote (on Starnet
List):
>
> >Anyway, here I am without an extended warranty on a 4
year old
> >vehicle. [snip]
> >Does anyone know a reputable
extended warranty company that
> >will cover our cars?
>
>
ATTN: EVERYONE
>
> I too am looking for an aftermarket
warranty! If any of you
> know anything about where I can purchase
one for a decent
> price PLEASE let me know. My local dealership
wants almost
> $3000, and this is quite out of my budget. Allstate
does not
> sell warranties in Washington State, and Auto Advantage
stopped
> selling warranties for the VR4. I have been told that many
other
> companies also have stopped covering the VR4 (I wonder
why...)
> even though these companies still sell warranties for
Porsches
> and Ferraris. If I cannot find an aftermarket warranty I
will
> certainly sell my car in the near future.
>
> Thanks to
anyone who can help.
>
> --Errin Humphrey
> Seattle,
WA
> 94 VR4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Subject:
Team3S: Re: ellusive high speed problems
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james berry wrote:
>
> was 140. A loud
whining noise coming from the passenger seat forced me
> to reconsider my
choice of speed. Next time I'll try it alone.
Funny, I have this EXACT problem on my car as
well! When driving on the
Autobahn, I begin hearing it at 130 or so,
and it gets exponentially
louder and more annoying as speed increases.
Sometimes I can actually
FEEL the effects. I've also noticed that when
a Porche 911, 12 cylinder
BMW/Mercedes/Ferrari/Lambo or other fast car pulls
up next to me and
starts accelerating hard, the problem seems to anticipate
my reaction
and begins EVEN BEFORE I hit the gas! Hmmm...
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 12:30:14
1999
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Date:
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ahh some good news...
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Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> I've noticed that
the GTech is a little bit optimistic, however not overly
> so. About
.1-.2 optimistic in the 1/4 and 2-4 MPH as well. I think that
>
comes at least partially from our AWD cars tending to pull the rear down
and
> the front up which adds a little more g-force to the accelerometer
in the
> GTech due to the effects of gravity since the device is no longer
perfectly
> level.
I've spoken to several folks who have validated its
values at the track,
and they all found it to be pretty much dead-on
accurate. Of course the
1/4 mile speed will be higher than that
measured at the track since it
is a terminal velocity at the end of the 1/4
mile vs the trap speed
measured at the track, which is more of an average
speed over the last
part of the run. The G-Tech is an excellent tool
and is very
consistent, making it very easy to MEASURE the effects
of
modifications. No excuse for such useless comments as "I did
this mod
and it made the car come alive!" Anyway, highly
recommended!!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: Bonneville Salt Flats (was Ahh some good news...) -Reply
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> It's a National park. But they only allow racing a
few times a year for only
> a month or so. Possibly he was on there out of
season...
-snip-
Apparently it's an EPA protection
thing. The roads were open and there were no signs,
so they just told
us to go. He said they always arrest kids out there for
parties.
As for the salt we washed it off at
the nearest car wash. We got less salt than you
probably acumulate in
one winter here. We were out there for 5 hours before they came
so we
got some good racing in. Maybe we should try to get the list together and
get
some time this summer. I think we have to get special permission
from the EPA and thats
all. I don't know what animals they are worried
about killing, there wasn't even a
plant in site for 30 miles in any
direction.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 14:11:03
1999
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 17:08:58 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Re: ellusive high speed problems -Reply & Solution
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I had my local Mitsu Mechanic look into this...he told
me i was pretty much
SOL & up the creek without paddles. However being a
perfectionist and
not tolerating even the slightest problem with my baby,
(vr-4), i took it to a
good friend of mine in the animal control business.
Now i just hit a small switch mounted covertly under
the steering wheel
column, and a high voltage, but low amperage, electrical
pulse surges
through the passenger seat which is lined on the inside with
metal tape.
Instantly the noise subsides and the throttle returns to life.
If anyone is interested i can ask the guy if he wants
to fabricate a kit or
something...i would guess $300-$500 US. E-mail me
privately.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4 w/ BitchBlocker(tm) 2000 &
Erebuni front
>>> Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
04/12/99 02:08pm
Funny, I have this EXACT problem on my car as well!
When driving on
the Autobahn, I begin hearing it at 130 or so, and it gets
exponentially
louder and more annoying as speed increases. Sometimes I
can actually
FEEL the effects. I've also noticed that when a Porche
911, 12 cylinder
BMW/Mercedes/Ferrari/Lambo or other fast car pulls up next
to me and
starts accelerating hard, the problem seems to anticipate my
reaction
and begins EVEN BEFORE I hit the gas! Hmmm...
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 15:32:42
1999
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Date:
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bonneville Salt Flats (was Ahh some good news...)
-Reply
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When they did the special on the US and British cars
trying to break the
sound barrier, they mentioned that the salt on the flats
was getting
extremely thin. I don't recall why this is happening although
they did
say. This was the reason that the sound barrier runs were made on
the
dry lake bed and not the salt flats.
Regards,
Lynn
>
> > It's a National park. But they
only allow racing a few times a year for only
> > a month or so.
Possibly he was on there out of season...
> -snip-
> Apparently it's
an EPA protection thing. The roads were open and there were no > signs,
so they just told us to go. -snip- I think we have to get special permission
> from the EPA and thats all.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Subject:
Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs
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Hello Everyone,
Not sure if this is a 300GT VR-4 newbie question of
not, but here goes:
I've just recently purchased a 1992 VR-4 and absolutely
love it. The
only thing I've noticed as a problem is that, at roughly
2500-3500 RPMs,
I will occassionally (about once every 30 times) hear a noise
that can
best be described as a "groan." The groan lasts until I
pass 3500 RPMs
and then disappears. If I slow down, I usually can't get the
groan
back... There don't appear to be any performance problems and
other
than the noise and I haven't experienced any other symptoms.
It's
happened both when the engines warm and cold...
The only thing I can think of that is RPM-based is the
turbos. Do I
have a turbo going out? Any other ideas? I haven't
had a chance to take
it into the dealer since I bought it, but they didn't
see any problems
with it during my pre-buyer's inspection.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 15:59:03
1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Bonneville Salt Flats (was
Ahh some good news...) -Reply
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Andrew, did they require that you purchase special
tires to make a run?
Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
<< Subj: Team3S: Bonneville Salt Flats (was
Ahh some good news...)
-Reply
Date: 4/12/99 3:31:29 PM Eastern
Daylight Time
From: andrewb@infowest.com (Andrew
Brilliant)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
It's a National park. But they only allow racing a few times a year for
only
> a month or so. Possibly he was on there out of
season...
-snip-
Apparently it's an EPA protection
thing. The roads were open and there were
no signs,
so they
just told us to go. He said they always arrest kids out there for
par
>>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:11:45
1999
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Date:
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Subject: Team3S: Sidemarkers
To:
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How do u think sidemarker lights would look on our
cars? And how hard do
yours think it would be to install?
Larry A.
94 3000gt SL
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:13:24
1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs -Reply
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** High Priority **
Can't say what it is, though I've experienced this as
well. When I
hear it, I try to hold the rev's consistantly to try to
determine the
source, but no dice...I thought perhaps it was exhaust
scavenge....
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:13:44
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To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:16:55
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
> I will occasionally (about once every 30 times)
hear a noise
> that can best be described as a "groan." The
groan lasts until
> I pass 3500 RPMs and then disappears.
Could be exhaust related? I say this because the
active exhaust
changeover point is at 3500RPM... When operating in
"Silent" mode
this is the point at which the exhaust cuts back to
Sport. Although
this would usually cause the drone to appear, rather than
disappear?
Could the groan be from the tranny? (let's hope
not)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:18:29
1999
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From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
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References:
<003901be8505$2a413600$f4be0118@cx221247-a.msnv1.occa.home.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ahh some good news... (was Records for stock turbos)
Date: Mon,
12 Apr 1999 16:17:38 -0700
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> >BTW we once again stuck the (inacurate
albeit), speedo at 176 mph. I
love
> the salt flats.
However in 2 minutes we consumed roughly 1/4 tank of gas
at that
speed.
Yuck, 5 gallons of gas in 6 miles? Remind me to
slow down...
(Gas in Vegas is $1.80+ now)
-Bill
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:20:22
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 16:20:18
-0700
From: Art Charette K6XT <k6xt@arrl.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Camber
fix for lowering springs
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[snip]
the low down on how to fix the negative
camber created by lowering
springs.
On the front you must elongate the shock tower mounting
holes to give
extra positive camber.
[snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:24:58
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:22:30 -0400
From: Gavin
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs -Reply
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No we can get into the lovely fun of describing engine
sounds over
e-mail :). Nontheless, if it was sort of a high pitched groan as
opposed to
a low pitched rumblish groan, then i know what your talking
about.
Mine happens arounds 3000rpms...i'm pretty sure it's a
turbo...haven't
gotten it up on jacks to verify. But i also haven't lost any
power so i
haven't bothered to claim it under warranty yet. But i
will.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
Not sure if this is a 300GT VR-4 newbie question of
not, but here goes:
I've just recently purchased a 1992 VR-4 and absolutely
love it. The
only thing I've noticed as a problem is that, at roughly
2500-3500 RPMs,
I will occassionally (about once every 30 times) hear a noise
that can
best be described as a "groan." The groan lasts until I
pass 3500 RPMs
and then disappears. If I slow down, I usually can't get the
groan
back... There don't appear to be any performance problems and
other
than the noise and I haven't experienced any other symptoms.
It's
happened both when the engines warm and cold...
The only thing I can think of that is RPM-based is the
turbos. Do I
have a turbo going out? Any other ideas? I haven't
had a chance to take
it into the dealer since I bought it, but they didn't
see any problems
with it during my pre-buyer's inspection.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:33:43
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From: Andrew Biddle <andyb@chainsaw.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs -Reply
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It is indeed a high pitched groan. (Yeah, I had
no idea HOW to describe
it via email.)
At least I'm not alone!
Gavin Wallis wrote:
>
> No we can get into
the lovely fun of describing engine sounds over
> e-mail :). Nontheless,
if it was sort of a high pitched groan as opposed to
> a low pitched
rumblish groan, then i know what your talking about.
>
> Mine
happens arounds 3000rpms...i'm pretty sure it's a turbo...haven't
> gotten
it up on jacks to verify. But i also haven't lost any power so i
> haven't
bothered to claim it under warranty yet. But i will.
>
>
Gavin
> '94 Black VR-4
>
> >>> Andrew Biddle <andyb@chainsaw.com> 04/12/99 06:58pm
>>>
> Hello Everyone,
>
> Not sure if this is a
300GT VR-4 newbie question of not, but here goes:
>
> I've just
recently purchased a 1992 VR-4 and absolutely love it. The
> only
thing I've noticed as a problem is that, at roughly 2500-3500 RPMs,
> I
will occassionally (about once every 30 times) hear a noise that can
>
best be described as a "groan." The groan lasts until I pass 3500
RPMs
> and then disappears. If I slow down, I usually can't get the
groan
> back... There don't appear to be any performance problems
and other
> than the noise and I haven't experienced any other symptoms.
It's
> happened both when the engines warm and cold...
>
>
The only thing I can think of that is RPM-based is the turbos. Do
I
> have a turbo going out? Any other ideas? I haven't had a chance
to take
> it into the dealer since I bought it, but they didn't see any
problems
> with it during my pre-buyer's inspection.
>
>
Thanks in advance...
> -AndyB
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From: Dan Jett
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Subject:
Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs -Reply -Reply
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** High Priority **
As far as tone/pitch is concerned, the sound I'm
describing sounds
like a low rumble, like going over grooves in the
road...Definitely
not a turbo (as far as my ears are concerned). I could be
wrong...At
any rate, it's not a whistling sound.
Dan
92 Stealth TT Pearl White
HKS dual power flow
intake
Centerforce dual friction
slightly audible low frequency rumble
feature at 3500rpm's
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 16:47:29
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Date:
Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:51:43 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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Re: Team3S: Sidemarkers
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I think it would look tight. I think all it would
take is a hole, and some splicing to
the turn signal/parking light. That way
it's on w/ the parking lights, but also flashes
w/ the blinker.
Leland
> How do u think sidemarker lights would look on our
cars? And how hard do
> yours think it would be to
install?
>
> Larry A.
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
>
glacier pearl white
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 17:04:40
1999
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Date:
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From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bonneville Salt Flats (was Ahh some good news...)
-Reply
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No, we just sort of.. drove out there, there wan't
anything official about it. In fact
it was apparently illegal.
The
tires that they used for the land speed record were not tires at all.. they
were
aluminum wheels. Which is apparently the best thing for
that. Very little rolling
resistance. Of course, driving on our
aluminum wheels probably wouldn't have the same
effect. We
ran our tires at just under the max PSI for the Top Speed runs. and
VR-4
at 28/24 for the 1/4 mile. Using a cigarette lighter powered air
pump. (It takes a
while for those little things to pump out 48
PSI).
> Andrew, did they require that you purchase special
tires to make a run?
-snip-
--
Andrew Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Connections, Inc.
Orem, UT
nyse: GLCO
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 17:19:40
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Re: Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs -Reply -Reply
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Dan Jett wrote:
> ** High Priority **
>
> As far as
tone/pitch is concerned, the sound I'm describing sounds
> like a low
rumble, like going over grooves in the road...Definitely
> not a turbo (as
far as my ears are concerned). I could be wrong...At
> any rate, it's not
a whistling sound.
Are you cruising in the tour mode with your exhaust
system? I f so, it automatically
opens into a throatier sport
mode in the rpm range you are discribing ...at 3000 If
memeory serves
me correctly (but then I hide my OWN Easter eggs so memory is great,
but
short.)
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 17:25:48
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From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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It sounds as though (pun intended) you are hitting some
sort of
resonance point. I wonder if the stock air filter is getting into
a
vibration (sort of like making a whistle out of raisins box when
you
were a kid.) Try replacing it with a K&N filter
charger.
Regards,
Lynn
Andrew Biddle wrote:
>
> It is indeed a
high pitched groan. (Yeah, I had no idea HOW to describe
> it via
email.)
>
> At least I'm not alone!
>
> -AndyB
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 17:56:53
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 17:56:05
-0700
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>
>I've just recently purchased a 1992 VR-4
and absolutely love it. The
>only thing I've noticed as a problem is
that, at roughly 2500-3500 RPMs,
>I will occassionally (about once every
30 times) hear a noise that can
>best be described as a "groan."
The groan lasts until I pass 3500 RPMs
>and then disappears. If I slow
down, I usually can't get the groan
>back
If you have the HKS filter it sounds like you're
talking about the hooting
sound that shows up about .5 BAR. As long as you
can hold boost at
that level you can hear the hooting. I assume its some kind
of resonance
in the inlet system. Mine started after I installed the FIPK
filter.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 17:57:01
1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Extended warranties
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Several people have asked recently about extended
warranties; I found
this link off of the automotive section of The Buyers
Guide. They say
they write service contracts for new and used
vehicles.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 18:38:47
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs -Reply -Reply -Reply
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** High Priority **
Actually, I keep my exhaust in sport mode at all times.
I tried
switching to tour mode to see if it made a difference, but it
didn't.
Something tells me it is exhaust related. Must be
some resonance
around that engine harmonic....(hmmm...Not buying that one,
are you?)
Dan
92 Stealth TT
HKS dual power
thingy
Centerforce grabby thingy
contra bass gremlin choir at 3500
rpms...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 19:34:52
1999
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From:
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To:
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Sidemarkers
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:25:56
-0400
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Roger has them on his... I have a set but hate to cut
holes in my car ...I'll get them in one day.
Brian
I think it would look tight. I think all it would
take is a hole, and some splicing to
the turn signal/parking light. That way
it's on w/ the parking lights, but also flashes
w/ the blinker.
Leland
> How do u think sidemarker lights would look on our
cars? And how hard do
> yours think it would be to
install?
>
> Larry A.
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
>
glacier pearl white
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 20:31:23
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 07:29:21
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Hi all,
I'm having rotors, pads, steel braided brake lines and
lowering springs
installed on my '95 R/T TT. The quotes I'm getting
seem a bit high on the
labor and I was hoping to get some comments from the
group. This is all
from the labor rate guide, but I'm wondering if
there isn't some overlap
built in. I have my own parts.
Springs:
Front 2.6 hrs
Rear 2.8 hrs
Brake hose: (incl. bleeding)
Front 1.6 hrs
Rear 1.6 hrs
Brake pads
Front 0.8 hrs
R&R or renew
rotors 0.8 hrs
Rear
0.8 hrs
R&R or renew rotors 0.8
hrs
Total 11.8 hrs
The alignment is supposedly thrown in for free.
The rotors are brand new
Stillen cross drilled. Is it correct to assume
they can just be installed,
or do they have to be turned first?
Thanks for any comments,
Oskar
Me too. Tried inserting a wadded up sock into the
opening just in
front of the passenger head rest but it only muffled the
squeal and
started a pounding near the center of the console which could be
felt
on my right side with increasing intensity. after slowing, there
was
complete cold silence.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 21:27:22
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost and octane
Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:23:01
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Stock car w. intake and Boost controller can safely run
15 PSI on 93 octane
pump gas - right? To what point can I raise the
boost on 100 octane
unleaded without encountering detonation.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
SAVC-R, K&N FIPK, new NGKs,
Magnecor 8.5
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 21:36:36
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost and octane
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Oskar wrote:
> Stock; intake and Boost controller can safely run
15 PSI on 93 octane
> pump gas? what can boost 100
octane
> unleaded without detonation?
> Oskar '95 R/T TT
SAVC-R, K&N, NGK, Magnecor 8.5
I would say 18-20psi is ok. Maybe more,
especially considering you have stock
turbos and will only be able to go over
20psi for short duration before turbos
run out of steam at higher rpms...and
if you have stock BOV then may not even get
much beyond 17psi in any
case.
Jack Tertadian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 12 21:53:26
1999
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Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 00:53:05 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bonneville Salt Flats (was
Ahh some good news...) -Reply
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<< No, we just sort of.. drove out there, there
wan't anything official about
it. In fact
it was apparently
illegal. >>
I have been on the salt twice with no problems. I
didn't know it was illegal!
But I was more low-key. Drove about
three miles north of the sign and the
portapotty before stopping. They
probably can't see you that far out
especially from the interstate. Didn't
go over 90 mph and my fun consisted
mainly of practicing hand brake turns
and bootleg turns (in a rental car, but
washed it anyway). For safety
sake I would recommend that others check out
the route at low speed first as
I saw some chuck holes in the salt as I went
by at 90, but that was a little
west of the track area.
It is BLM land I think, definitely not National
Park. The reason the salt is
thinning is that it is being loaded up
and shipped off. Loss of a national
treasure.
I hope this isn't too off topic for the group but it is
worth the short trip
off of I-80 for any list members traveling through the
area. Satisfies that
need for speed, well for a little while
anyway.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 00:07:10
1999
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Odd noise at 2500-3500 RPMs
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
james berry wrote:
>
> >
>
>I've just recently purchased a 1992 VR-4 and absolutely love it.
The
> >only thing I've noticed as a problem is that, at roughly
2500-3500 RPMs,
> >I will occassionally (about once every 30 times)
hear a noise that can
> >best be described as a "groan." The
groan lasts until I pass 3500 RPMs
> >and then disappears. If I slow
down, I usually can't get the groan
> >back
>
> If you
have the HKS filter it sounds like you're talking about the hooting
>
sound that shows up about .5 BAR. As long as you can hold boost at
> that
level you can hear the hooting. I assume its some kind of resonance
> in
the inlet system. Mine started after I installed the FIPK filter.
I bet James is right and you're hearing the intake
resonance commonly
experienced by those who install aftermarket air intake
systems such as
the FIPK. I had this problem on my car (and got good at
sustaining it!)
and completely eliminated it with a Blitz BOV (the only
reason I
installed it). However, there may be a free fix... as I was
installing
the BOV, I removed the FIPK and saw in the intake the tubes
through
which the stock bypass valve (BPV?) recirculates the air back into
the
intake. The hose from the BPV splits into two small tubes, one
pointed
towards the rear turbo and one towards the front. The ends of
these
tubes are about the size of the mouth of a soda bottle, and since
the
resonance does resemble the sound of air being blown over the mouth of
a
bottle, I bet using a file to change the shape of those tube ends
might
also solve the problem.
If you try this, please let me know if it works!
Would certainly be a
cheaper solution than an aftermarket BOV. Not that
you should make sure
the pieces of plastic filed off do not end up in the
turbos. Good
luck!!
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 03:59:25
1999
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Message-ID: <37130FEB.155561D@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:35:39 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Boost and octane
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
> Stock; intake and Boost controller can safely run
15 PSI on 93 octane
> pump gas?
Yes, if your engine is in good health. Please note that
any oil in the intake
parts will cause lowering the octane !!
> what can boost 100 octane unleaded without
detonation?
Around 18psi but I wouldn't go higher but for short
spikes. Also check out the
O2 sensors for any lean situation. Also, you're in
a very high danger to run
into fuel cut (18psi+ if your engine is in good
condition). Furthermore, watch
the IDC as your injectors are getting maxed
out after 15psi and running them
over 95% (or even 90%) for a longer period
can cause damage to them. Last but
not least your fuel pump may run out of
steam too.
My advice, with 100 octane you prevent detonation but
your fuel system is maxing
out. You can run maybe up to 18psi but watch
closely O2 and IDC !
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 05:42:41
1999
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From: "Chris S."
<shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Management - Split Second
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 05:42:37
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I forgot who posted it. I checked out http://www.splitsec.com. They
make
MAF Kits. I asked if they had any plans on making them for
the
3000GT. Here is there response.
----------
Chris,
Thank you for the interest in Split Second
products. We are very
interested in producing a kit for the 3000
GT. If you know of someone
located near us please so we could develop a
kit please let me know.
I'm sure it would work out very well and produce
good power.
Thank you,
Eric
----------
They are located in California. Hopefully someone
can look into this.
I am in Michigan so that doesn't help much. This
could be a great
solution for the 94+ cars.
Thanks,
Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 07:18:32
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Team3S: 176mph
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Andrew, the 176 mph you set at the salt flats
should dispell a
notion discussed in a previous shred: that our cars
are NOT
prevented from exceeding 165mph by a limiter synchronized to
a
165mph speedometer max.
Best
Darc.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 07:34:26
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Team3S: 176mph- reply
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I can tell you right now that _my_ car anyway does not
stop at 165mph, and thats a fact,
I have gone well past 165 on my speedo
twice now. I'm prety sure that the drag is what
stopped me. It
just felt like the car couldn't acclerate anymore. No fuel
cut,
nothing.
> Andrew, the 176 mph you set at the salt flats
should dispell a
> notion discussed in a previous shred: that our
cars are NOT
> prevented from exceeding 165mph by a limiter synchronized
to a
> 165mph speedometer max.
>
> Best
>
>
Darc.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 07:44:38
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 176mph- reply
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:46:03
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That's exactly how the adaptive soft speed limiter
works in the VR4 as
explained to me by a ECU guy who worked in Japan on
various ECUs including
the VR4. It isn't a hard speed limiter like a
Supra Mk IV for instance.
When the rate of acceleration drops below a certain
point AFTER 155 MPH (or
was it 154?) the adaptive speed limiter stops the car
from accelerating
without any drama just as though you ran out of
steam. If you have the
power to exceed the rate of acceleration the ECU
is watching (whatever that
is), the car will continue to
accelerate.
This should be easy to test actually. Run up to
about 154-155 mph and back
off the throttle just enough to stop accelerating
(but not slow down) then
nail the throttle again. If the soft limiter
is indeed working as described
you should not accelerate past 156
mph.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I can
tell you right now that _my_ car anyway does not stop at
> 165mph, and
thats a fact,
> I have gone well past 165 on my speedo twice now.
I'm prety sure
> that the drag is what
> stopped me. It just
felt like the car couldn't acclerate
> anymore. No fuel cut,
>
nothing.
>
> wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
>
> Andrew, the 176 mph you set at the salt flats should dispell
a
> > notion discussed in a previous shred: that our cars are
NOT
> > prevented from exceeding 165mph by a limiter synchronized to
a
> > 165mph speedometer max.
> >
> > Best
>
>
> > Darc.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 08:19:55
1999
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Date:
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From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Well, we are back to the old discussion. It's hard to
find out if we really have
a "soft limiter" but if you can get
around this then for what is it ? I made
over 170mph as well several times
and never felt anything like a limiter. Once I
felt the car will not go
faster but a later dyno showed that I was back on less
than 300
horses.
G-Force, who does the reprogramming on our ECU do not
know anything about a
limiter. Maybe some countries do have this limiter as
our friend in the UK had
to install a speed governour when he imported
it.
Anyways, my EU car does not have a limiter at all
;-)
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 08:24:10
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All of this has left me wonderign.. WHY?? It's okay to
go fast as long as you can
accelerate quickly? What purpose did this
serve when mitsubishi designed it? Does the
ECU upgrade ie GFORCE
resolve this speed limiter thing?
"Barry E. King" wrote:
> That's exactly how the adaptive soft speed limiter
works in the VR4 as
> explained to me by a ECU guy who worked in Japan on
various ECUs including
-snip-
Hey everyone,
Just wanted to send out one more e-mail to see if
anyone else is interested
in joining the "Minnesota 3/S" group at
Rock Falls Raceway on Sunday, April
18th. So far we have seven cars
that are going to be running (three 3/Ses,
two DSMs, and two others) If
your interested, check out our events page at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/events.html
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 08:42:15
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 176mph- reply
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 08:43:42
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You'll notice on their web site that they offer the
option of deleting the
speed limiter. This is on the VR4 specific
page.
I have no idea why they would choose this sort of
mechanism but it certainly
explains the observed behavior of various top-end
runs. I also tend to
trust the TechTom people in Japan since they
pioneered VR4 ECU
modifications.
If 300 HP was just enough to get the car to accelerate
more or less to 155
MPH but (usually) no more then maybe it makes
sense. Certification for sale
only has to pass whatever contrived tests
governments devise. Maybe there
was some loophole in the Japanese law
that Mitsubishi exploited? Dunno.
Maybe it had something to do with the way the rules
were structured in the
Japanese N-class where the VR4 was raced for a
time. If they couldn't
perform ECU mods but could do things to add
power they would have a top
speed advantage over other cars? Purely
speculation.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> All of
this has left me wonderign.. WHY?? It's okay to go fast as
> long as you
can
> accelerate quickly? What purpose did this serve when
mitsubishi
> designed it? Does the
> ECU upgrade ie GFORCE
resolve this speed limiter thing?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 08:46:55
1999
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Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:51:15 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: wheels and tires
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Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my
car.. a 93 Stealth ES.
I'm note sure what size rims I have, I think
they are 16" Is it
possible to run 18"s in the front and
20"s in the rear? Is this wise as
far a performance and
safety? Also, I was thinking about doing some
lowering springs.. Would
a larger size wheel impact this in any way?
Would there be
rubbing?
Leland Gray
93 Stealth ES
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 08:59:57
1999
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
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My first question is "Why Z-rated?"
Unless you drive _really_ hard (i.e.
autocross or other racing), the Z
rating is overkill for an ES. ("In My
Opinion", of
course...) Dropping down to a V-rated tire will save you
some $$ and
give you longer tire life.
As for changing sizes, I'll leave that to someone who's
done it...
Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held
it's ground.
On Tue, 13 Apr 1999, Leland Gray wrote:
> Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my
car.. a 93 Stealth ES.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 09:02:14
1999
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From: "Chris S."
<shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: APEXi Super AFC For Sale on Ebay
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:02:09
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I found an APEXi Super AFC for sale on Ebay
today. Says its new in
the box never used. I just bought one so I
don't need it. Here is
the link if anyone is interested.
Chris
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 09:02:49
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Subject:
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:02:43 -0500
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Curt,
My brother is looking at getting an eclipse for his
wife to drive. I told
him that a used '95+ GS-X is the way to go.
This car would be driven all
year round.
Can you tell me a little about your experiences so
far. Mileage,
reliability, cost to insure, etc..compared to your
stealth(this will give me
something to compare as well.)
Also, you're driving a '96.... What should he
expect to pay for a similar
car with what kind of mileage.
Thanks,
Mark
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone: 957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
In addition to what Dennis said, by putting 18"s
on the front and 20"s on
the back, you lose your ability to rotate your
tires, and the performance
gains (if any) would be small. I would think it
would actually hurt your
handling quite a bit. It would probably cancel out
any handling improvements
you might get from proper lowering
springs.
You indicated that your current tire size was
P225/55ZR-16, so yes, you do
have 16" rims.
Just an opinion, but it sounds like you'd be spending a
lot of money (20"
rims are big $$$) just for looks and actually hurting
your cars performance.
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dennis Moore
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 12:00 PM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
>
>
> My first question
is "Why Z-rated?" Unless you drive _really_ hard (i.e.
>
autocross or other racing), the Z rating is overkill for an ES. ("In
My
> Opinion", of course...) Dropping down to a V-rated tire
will save you
> some $$ and give you longer tire life.
>
> As
for changing sizes, I'll leave that to someone who's done it...
>
>
Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
> 93 Stealth
ES
>
> Today's mighty oak is just yesterday's nut that held it's
ground.
>
> On Tue, 13 Apr 1999, Leland Gray wrote:
>
>
> Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my car.. a 93 Stealth
ES.
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:26:36
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Well, I'm back from UPRD in Huntington Beach, CA,
where I installed
the basic beginners package of components and ran the car
on the dyno.
Let me first start with Accelerated Accessories.
They were the ones
I ordered the parts from initially. They had competitive
prices and I liked
how Matt and Frank were not the type to try to sell me
items I didn't need.
Then again, their stock is pretty minimal and I got the
feeling I was
dealing with a middleman to get my parts. They didn't seem to
have anything
actually physically in stock. Everything was either ordered
from some other
place or drop shipped to me from the distributor. This is
obviously not
preferable. Too much chance for an order to get screwed up
since the order
must be repeated to another company. Fortunately I had a
pretty simple
order. They quoted like 2-3 weeks on the correct plugs that I
wanted. Of
course they only told me this AFTER I had placed the order. When I
placed
the order it was with the stipulation that they get the order to me in
a
little over 1 week. I did not want to be driving down to LA with half
my
parts. After much babysitting of the order (I had to call them once a day
to
make sure things were moving on the order) the majority of the parts came
in
one the absolute last day acceptable. The only thing missing was the
pillar
mount gauge pod. This I didn't receive until yesterday... 5 days late
and
completely useless to me now. They neither offered to refund me the part
nor
jumped thru hoops to send me another one when it had not shown up
on
Wednesday with the other parts. I'm not knocking em... most places would
not
jump thru hoops either... but then, that's the difference between an
average
business and a customer oriented business. So we're talking about an
average
business, which is neither good nor bad... just... average. Matt
seemed very
knowledgeable about our cars and what was needed
tho.
Now, I have to be careful about my reporting of
UPRD and their shop.
There were things about the shop that impressed me and
things that
definitely did not. Let me first start by saying that their
facilities are
quite large and they have BIG plans for expansion. If these
guys complete
even HALF of what they say they are working on, we may very
well be looking
at an honest version of GT Alley. They're not even officially
open yet and
they have tons of cars sitting in the shop that they're working
on. Here's
the rundown:
* Big shop. Lots of space. Lots of room for
development. They have plans for
an engine dyno with a remote controlled room
on the other side of the
window. Very impressive.
* Knowledgeable staff. These guys are good. While down
there I saw a yellow
'94 3000GT and I was pretty impressed. It had a custom
fabricated Spearco
intercooler and a fiberglass hood. It had an VPC and was
running at 17psi I
think they said. The thing ran like a bat outta hell and
was pulling in 4th
gear.
* Nice guys. This may not seem very important, but if
you don't get along
with the guys working on your car, you're not going to be
able to
communicate with them about what you want.
OK... here's the stuff I was NOT impressed with (sorry
UPRD)
* Flaky. I moved the dyno date from the 17th to the
10th to accommodate the
Long Beach grand prix they said they were attending.
The night I'm leaving
for UPRD I get a call from them telling me they had
been trying to reach me
all week to tell me that the mechanic's dad had been
stricken ill and they
had no mechanic to work on Saturday. The thing is...
the phone number is my
cell phone, which is no farther than 2 feet from my
body 24 hours a day.
Obviously they didn't call me. Anyway, I stressed to the
guy that I had
already made arrangements and reservations for the weekend and
he would be
costing me lots of money if he just decided to cancel the
appointment. I
mean, gimme a break, I'm about to leave in an hour and they're
telling me
it's cancelled!!! They also offered to supply the components for
the install
and never bothered to call me once to confirm the parts or even
to actually
order the parts for me. It was fortunate that I relied on a 3rd
party for
the parts or else it would have definitely been cancelled. They
were quite
vocal of the fact that they were not usually open on Saturdays and
that this
was a favor they were doing by scheduling this for me during the
weekend. In
fact all day Saturday I got the distinct impression that they did
not want
to be there on Saturday, did not want to bother with the car, and
generally
wanted to finish as fast as possible so they could go
home.
* Uncomfortable with equipment. These guys were no
doubt great with a wrench
and I saw some outstanding example of their custom
jobs for other customers.
The problem was with the dyno. They simply did not
know how to use it. It
was new to them and it made me a bit nervous sometimes
to see them forget to
turn the cooling fan on or lower the car when it was
time to drive the car
off the dyno. Javier, the owner, seemed more
comfortable with the dyno and
was able to explain some of its workings, but
he was not available later in
the day and the other guys had to try and
figure it out.
* Dyno. I was unimpressed. This dyno simply sucks,
unfortunately. If you've
ever seen the dyno results from Roger Gerl and the
others, you will
definitely be disappointed. The dyno seems to work well
enough, I just think
it's either a lacking in the software or perhaps the
techs are not using it
correctly. You don't get a dyno chart. You don't get
an accurate HP reading
either. They run your car in 3rd up to 80mph and then,
at WOT, the dyno
equalizes the acceleration force produced by the cars wheels
to keep the
rollers pegged at 80mph. This gives a wheel hp measurement. The
80mph speed
is held for 3 seconds and then the car is allowed to accelerate
to 85,
whereupon it is once again held to 85 by the resistance produced from
the
rollers. Remember, the car is at WOT the whole time during this
procedure! 3
seconds more and it proceeds to 90, where it is held again
before the test
finishes and the driver slows down to a stop. So instead of a
nice graph of
the entire rpm range, all you get is 3 arbitrary speed (not
rpm) points with
the corresponding WHEEL hp. Try making a graph out of that!
This would not
be so bad if the results were accurate. But they're not. They
simply can't
be.
The dyno reported a wheel hp reading of 197 with
the HKS exhaust and
HKS intake. After installing the EGT probe/gauge, boost
gauge, new intake
element, Apexi AVC-R @ 1 bar (BTW, the stock boost was
measured at 7psi!!),
and HKS SBOV, the dyno reported an increase of wheel hp
to 227. What kinda
result is that? I actually called UPRD afterwards and
asked them if perhaps
the dyno was reporting results in KW instead of SAE hp!
No matter how I
slice it, I cannot understand how my car, which has more mods
than either
Mike Chapleski or Jim Matthews cars is reading less power than
both! Those
guys dynoed at 406hp! What the hell am I missing here? Also the
"peak hp"
they reported occurred at 5100-5400! Um... that doesn't
make much sense
either! I should be seeing max hp closer to 6000rpm based on
others'
experiences. I'm still waiting for the guys from UPRD to send me
the
detailed results from the dyno. I'm hoping they don't just forget about
me
now that I've paid my money and went back up north.
* Work. Let me first say that what these guys DID
install worked great,
looks great, and I'm quite happy with it.
Unfortunately, the stuff they
either didn't install or have the materials to
install was a bit of a
disappointment. As I said earlier, the gauge pod never
arrived in time and I
asked them to mount the gauges in the glove
compartment. Except they had no
plastic to mount it properly, so they laft
the guages rolling around in the
glovebox. They also didn't have the proper
gaskets in stock to replace the
plugs and wires. They decided to not do the
plugs and wires without so much
as calling me. I only learned when I arrived
that they had decided not to do
it. Did they knock off a few bucks in labor
since the gauges were
semi-installed and the plugs and wires were not even
attempted? Nope. They
charged me the full quoted amount for what they did do.
I guess I could have
complained, but they're a nice buncha guys and I didn't
start to really
think about it until after I drove away. A bit late to start
thinking about
asking for a discount, huh?
So... final damage: $720 at UPRD and $1350 at
Accelerated
Accesories.
Will I go back to Accelerated Accesories? Sorry,
no. Too many other
places will likely give better service and fulfill their
promises.
Will I go back to UPRD? Yes. probably. For all
their small problems
this place has tons of potential and some real talented
mechanics. I do hope
they learn how to use their dyno. I'm MORE confused now
about the power my
car is producing than before I had them strap it on the
dyno!! The dyno was
a complete waste of time and money. I had expected them
to use it as a
tuning tool to find the threshold of detonation. Not only did
it not serve
that purpose... it couldn't even tell me how much power the car
is
producing! I'll stick to quoting numbers produced by the dynos near
Roger
Gerl. What would you rather quote as your horsepower: 406 flywheel or
227
wheel??
I'm gonna post some pics of the trip/dyno/shop in
the next few days
for those that are interested.
Seeya!
Dave Allison
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To:
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Subject:
Please ignore "Team3S: eclipse gsx"....meant to be
private.
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:28:42 -0500
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: wheels and tires -Reply
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Uhh, don't take this wrong way, but if you don't
understand that
225/55zr-16 means you have 16inch rims, (notice the 16 on the
end),
you may want to slow up a bit.
For starters, you have a front wheel drive car, putting
18"s up front and
20"s in the back will make most people think your
an idiot, (those who
know a stealth ES is FWD). 2ndly, if you have
performance in mind, this
is NOT the route you want to go (too many reasons
to list...#1 being
weight). Your talking about roughly $4000 in wheels and
tires going the
route your talking about. For $3000 you can get 4 Volk
17" or 18" rims
and nice tires that will give you immensly better
performance then what
your talking about. (incidentally you would want the
17"s for best
performance on a SL). You also get to rotate that tires
since they are all
the same size.
But if this is strictly looks, well i dunno, whatever
you like :).
Gavin
>>> Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com> 04/13/99 11:51am
>>>
Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my car.. a 93
Stealth ES.
I'm note sure what size rims I have, I think they are
16" Is it
possible to run 18"s in the front and 20"s in
the rear? Is this wise as
far a performance and safety? Also, I
was thinking about doing some
lowering springs.. Would a larger size wheel
impact this in any way?
Would there be rubbing?
Leland Gray
93 Stealth ES
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 10:04:04
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From: "Art Charette K6XT"
<k6xt@arrl.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999
10:03:35 -0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
You've definitely got overlap.
I'd find someone who will give a package price. My
mechanic (when I'm too
lazy) does, I hang out and discuss it with him. If you
don't ask, the answer
is usually no.
It takes 10 or 15 min to put on a new rotor. Having
done that, it takes 5 to
put new pads in the (already removed)
caliper.
A new car dealer will try this trick every time. The 50
bux for an alignment
sure won't compensate for the flat rate
manual.
Hi all,
I'm having rotors, pads, steel braided brake lines and
lowering springs
installed on my '95 R/T TT. The quotes I'm getting
seem a bit high on the
labor and I was hoping to get some comments from the
group. This is all
from the labor rate guide, but I'm wondering if
there isn't some overlap
built in. I have my own parts.
Springs:
Front 2.6 hrs
Rear 2.8 hrs
Brake hose: (incl. bleeding)
Front 1.6 hrs
Rear 1.6 hrs
Brake pads
Front 0.8 hrs
R&R or renew
rotors 0.8 hrs
Rear
0.8 hrs
R&R or renew rotors 0.8
hrs
Total 11.8 hrs
The alignment is supposedly thrown in for free.
The rotors are brand new
Stillen cross drilled. Is it correct to assume
they can just be installed,
or do they have to be turned first?
Thanks for any comments,
Oskar
Sheesh!! How hard would it have been to send one of the
boys out to a nearby
Mitsu/Dodge dealer to see if they had the gaskets in
stock?? It's the least
they could have done.
Memo to shop owners on the list: Stuff like that goes a
long way to help
guarantee return business....or guaranteeing that customers
won't return....
Sorry to hear about your trip!
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Dave Allison
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 12:27 PM
>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
>
Subject: Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
>
> * Work. Let me
first say that what these guys DID install worked great,
> looks great,
and I'm quite happy with it. Unfortunately, the stuff they
> either didn't
install or have the materials to install was a bit of a
> disappointment.
As I said earlier, the gauge pod never arrived in
> time and I
>
asked them to mount the gauges in the glove compartment. Except
> they had
no
> plastic to mount it properly, so they laft the guages rolling
>
around in the
> glovebox. They also didn't have the proper gaskets in
stock to replace the
> plugs and wires. They decided to not do the plugs
and wires
> without so much
> as calling me. I only learned when I
arrived that they had
> decided not to do
> it. Did they knock off a
few bucks in labor since the gauges were
> semi-installed and the plugs
and wires were not even attempted? Nope. They
> charged me the full quoted
amount for what they did do. I guess I
> could have
> complained,
but they're a nice buncha guys and I didn't start to really
> think about
it until after I drove away. A bit late to start
> thinking about
>
asking for a discount, huh?
>
> So... final damage: $720 at
UPRD and $1350 at Accelerated
> Accesories.
Dennis,
I thought the exact same thing, but now
that I have the V rated tires, I
wish I hadn't done it. The V rated
tires don't have the traction that
the Z rated tires did. I squeal my
tires 3 out of 4 times leaving a
red light and I am forever getting a
little shifting to second also.
My Z rated tires never did this. I will
be buying Z rated when these
V tires wear out! (Toyo Proxes by the way
Z rated wer T-1 Plus and
the V rated are FZ94s.)
Regards,
Lynn
Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> My first question
is "Why Z-rated?" Unless you drive _really_ hard (i.e.
>
autocross or other racing), the Z rating is overkill for an ES. ("In
My
> Opinion", of course...) Dropping down to a V-rated tire
will save you
> some $$ and give you longer tire life.
>
> As
for changing sizes, I'll leave that to someone who's done it...
>
>
Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
> 93 Stealth ES
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:44:30 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
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> It takes 10 or 15 min to put on a new rotor.
Having done that, it takes 5 to
> put new pads in the (already removed)
caliper.
Ahem, I've changed the rotors many times during the
last year but 10-15 minutes
is really extremely good. Jacking the car up,
removing the wheels, removing the
pads, removing the two caliper bolts,
replacing the rotor and same step
backwards normally takes about half an
hour. But then the pads are not cleaned,
nor the calipers and I think a good
mechanic does this. BTW, you CANNOT put new
pads in a removed caliper,
otherwise the will fall thru, haha :)
> A new car dealer will try this trick every time.
The 50 bux for an alignment
> sure won't compensate for the flat rate
manual.
It always depends where you live ! COme over to Europe
and you'll search for a
thicker wallet to be able to pay the prices
here.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
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Re: Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
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Dave,
Thank you very much for your report, and I'm sorry that
you've been used by UPRD
to learn more about their dyno. But welcome to the
club ! I just remember our
Supra friend that tried to dyno his automatic
:)
Jim 5680, 79.5, 185, 264.5, 266
Roger
Dave Allison wrote:
>
> Well, I'm back from
UPRD in Huntington Beach, CA, where I installed
> the basic beginners
package of components and ran the car on the dyno.
>
> Let me first start with
Accelerated Accessories. They were the ones
> I ordered the parts from
initially. They had competitive prices and I liked
> how Matt and Frank
were not the type to try to sell me items I didn't need.
> Then again,
their stock is pretty minimal and I got the feeling I was
> dealing with a
middleman to get my parts. They didn't seem to have anything
> actually
physically in stock. Everything was either ordered from some other
> place
or drop shipped to me from the distributor. This is obviously not
>
preferable. Too much chance for an order to get screwed up since the
order
> must be repeated to another company. Fortunately I had a pretty
simple
> order. They quoted like 2-3 weeks on the correct plugs that I
wanted. Of
> course they only told me this AFTER I had placed the order.
When I placed
> the order it was with the stipulation that they get the
order to me in a
> little over 1 week. I did not want to be driving down
to LA with half my
> parts. After much babysitting of the order (I had to
call them once a day to
> make sure things were moving on the order) the
majority of the parts came in
> one the absolute last day acceptable. The
only thing missing was the pillar
> mount gauge pod. This I didn't receive
until yesterday... 5 days late and
> completely useless to me now. They
neither offered to refund me the part nor
> jumped thru hoops to send me
another one when it had not shown up on
> Wednesday with the other parts.
I'm not knocking em... most places would not
> jump thru hoops either...
but then, that's the difference between an average
> business and a
customer oriented business. So we're talking about an average
> business,
which is neither good nor bad... just... average. Matt seemed very
>
knowledgeable about our cars and what was needed tho.
>
> Now, I have to be
careful about my reporting of UPRD and their shop.
> There were things
about the shop that impressed me and things that
> definitely did not. Let
me first start by saying that their facilities are
> quite large and they
have BIG plans for expansion. If these guys complete
> even HALF of what
they say they are working on, we may very well be looking
> at an honest
version of GT Alley. They're not even officially open yet and
> they have
tons of cars sitting in the shop that they're working on. Here's
> the
rundown:
>
> * Big shop. Lots of space. Lots of room for
development. They have plans for
> an engine dyno with a remote controlled
room on the other side of the
> window. Very impressive.
>
>
* Knowledgeable staff. These guys are good. While down there I saw a
yellow
> '94 3000GT and I was pretty impressed. It had a custom fabricated
Spearco
> intercooler and a fiberglass hood. It had an VPC and was running
at 17psi I
> think they said. The thing ran like a bat outta hell and was
pulling in 4th
> gear.
>
> * Nice guys. This may not seem
very important, but if you don't get along
> with the guys working on your
car, you're not going to be able to
> communicate with them about what you
want.
>
> OK... here's the stuff I was NOT impressed with (sorry
UPRD)
>
> * Flaky. I moved the dyno date from the 17th to the 10th
to accommodate the
> Long Beach grand prix they said they were attending.
The night I'm leaving
> for UPRD I get a call from them telling me they
had been trying to reach me
> all week to tell me that the mechanic's dad
had been stricken ill and they
> had no mechanic to work on Saturday. The
thing is... the phone number is my
> cell phone, which is no farther than
2 feet from my body 24 hours a day.
> Obviously they didn't call me.
Anyway, I stressed to the guy that I had
> already made arrangements and
reservations for the weekend and he would be
> costing me lots of money if
he just decided to cancel the appointment. I
> mean, gimme a break, I'm
about to leave in an hour and they're telling me
> it's cancelled!!! They
also offered to supply the components for the install
> and never bothered
to call me once to confirm the parts or even to actually
> order the parts
for me. It was fortunate that I relied on a 3rd party for
> the parts or
else it would have definitely been cancelled. They were quite
> vocal of
the fact that they were not usually open on Saturdays and that this
> was
a favor they were doing by scheduling this for me during the weekend. In
>
fact all day Saturday I got the distinct impression that they did not
want
> to be there on Saturday, did not want to bother with the car, and
generally
> wanted to finish as fast as possible so they could go
home.
>
> * Uncomfortable with equipment. These guys were no doubt
great with a wrench
> and I saw some outstanding example of their custom
jobs for other customers.
> The problem was with the dyno. They simply did
not know how to use it. It
> was new to them and it made me a bit nervous
sometimes to see them forget to
> turn the cooling fan on or lower the car
when it was time to drive the car
> off the dyno. Javier, the owner,
seemed more comfortable with the dyno and
> was able to explain some of
its workings, but he was not available later in
> the day and the other
guys had to try and figure it out.
>
> * Dyno. I was unimpressed.
This dyno simply sucks, unfortunately. If you've
> ever seen the dyno
results from Roger Gerl and the others, you will
> definitely be
disappointed. The dyno seems to work well enough, I just think
> it's
either a lacking in the software or perhaps the techs are not using it
>
correctly. You don't get a dyno chart. You don't get an accurate HP
reading
> either. They run your car in 3rd up to 80mph and then, at WOT,
the dyno
> equalizes the acceleration force produced by the cars wheels to
keep the
> rollers pegged at 80mph. This gives a wheel hp measurement. The
80mph speed
> is held for 3 seconds and then the car is allowed to
accelerate to 85,
> whereupon it is once again held to 85 by the
resistance produced from the
> rollers. Remember, the car is at WOT the
whole time during this procedure! 3
> seconds more and it proceeds to 90,
where it is held again before the test
> finishes and the driver slows
down to a stop. So instead of a nice graph of
> the entire rpm range, all
you get is 3 arbitrary speed (not rpm) points with
> the corresponding
WHEEL hp. Try making a graph out of that! This would not
> be so bad if
the results were accurate. But they're not. They simply can't
>
be.
>
> The dyno
reported a wheel hp reading of 197 with the HKS exhaust and
> HKS intake.
After installing the EGT probe/gauge, boost gauge, new intake
> element,
Apexi AVC-R @ 1 bar (BTW, the stock boost was measured at 7psi!!),
> and
HKS SBOV, the dyno reported an increase of wheel hp to 227. What kinda
>
result is that? I actually called UPRD afterwards and asked them if
perhaps
> the dyno was reporting results in KW instead of SAE hp! No
matter how I
> slice it, I cannot understand how my car, which has more
mods than either
> Mike Chapleski or Jim Matthews cars is reading less
power than both! Those
> guys dynoed at 406hp! What the hell am I missing
here? Also the "peak hp"
> they reported occurred at 5100-5400!
Um... that doesn't make much sense
> either! I should be seeing max hp
closer to 6000rpm based on others'
> experiences. I'm still waiting for
the guys from UPRD to send me the
> detailed results from the dyno. I'm
hoping they don't just forget about me
> now that I've paid my money and
went back up north.
>
> * Work. Let me first say that what these
guys DID install worked great,
> looks great, and I'm quite happy with it.
Unfortunately, the stuff they
> either didn't install or have the
materials to install was a bit of a
> disappointment. As I said earlier,
the gauge pod never arrived in time and I
> asked them to mount the gauges
in the glove compartment. Except they had no
> plastic to mount it
properly, so they laft the guages rolling around in the
> glovebox. They
also didn't have the proper gaskets in stock to replace the
> plugs and
wires. They decided to not do the plugs and wires without so much
> as
calling me. I only learned when I arrived that they had decided not to
do
> it. Did they knock off a few bucks in labor since the gauges
were
> semi-installed and the plugs and wires were not even attempted?
Nope. They
> charged me the full quoted amount for what they did do. I
guess I could have
> complained, but they're a nice buncha guys and I
didn't start to really
> think about it until after I drove away. A bit
late to start thinking about
> asking for a discount, huh?
>
> So... final damage:
$720 at UPRD and $1350 at Accelerated
> Accesories.
>
> Will I go back to
Accelerated Accesories? Sorry, no. Too many other
> places will likely
give better service and fulfill their promises.
>
> Will I go back to UPRD?
Yes. probably. For all their small problems
> this place has tons of
potential and some real talented mechanics. I do hope
> they learn how to
use their dyno. I'm MORE confused now about the power my
> car is
producing than before I had them strap it on the dyno!! The dyno was
> a
complete waste of time and money. I had expected them to use it as a
>
tuning tool to find the threshold of detonation. Not only did it not
serve
> that purpose... it couldn't even tell me how much power the car
is
> producing! I'll stick to quoting numbers produced by the dynos near
Roger
> Gerl. What would you rather quote as your horsepower: 406 flywheel
or 227
> wheel??
>
> I'm gonna post some
pics of the trip/dyno/shop in the next few days
> for those that are
interested.
>
> Seeya!
>
> Dave Allison
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
--
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
SORRRY !!
The last email was sent during a dead Nescape email
crap. The correct one will
follow soon :)
Again. I'm very sorry for this.
Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 12:14:05
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
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Dave,
Thank you very much for your report,
and I'm sorry that you've been used by UPRD
to learn more about their dyno.
But welcome to the club ! I just remember our
Supra friend that tried to dyno
his automatic :)
Regarding your dyno number these are the numbers
from Jim, Mike and me :
rpm loss
wheel fly DIN
Mike 6230, 78.0, 184, 262.0, 264
Jim 5680, 79.5, 185, 264.5, 266
Roger 5450, 73.5, 188, 261.5,
263
The figures are in kW. Taking your wheel reading of 197
(I come to the 227
later) these are 147kW, only around 39kW (52.3hp) less
than our readings. Using
a loss of around 77.0kW this equals to around 300hp
flywheel uncorrected. Trying
to correct it to SAE results in 337hp SAE. As
the correction factor is more
wrong in the "lower" hp area you'll
read around 330hp SAE. A 10hp gain with
intake and exhaust... well, let's say
only the intake and a good engine as the
exhaust dosn't help anything in this
boost area. My calculations assume your
wheel readings are not corrected to
anything.
Now, I'm a little bit confused about the S-AVCR. You
say that you've set it to
1.00 bars but have you driven it around a while to
let it learn the proper curve
? Also you haven't said anything about the
boost the meter peaked on the dyno
and this is the first important thing. The
second one are the EGT readings and
finally readings of the intake
temperatures for the comparison would be great
too.
Ok, let's take the 227hp now that equals in 169.3kW,
+77kW loss = 246.3kW (~16kW
less than we had). Now with the correction factor
this results in 370hp SAE
flywheel.
Analysing the given data from you tells me the
following story :
1. As your max power was around 5100-5400 the BC has
not finished to learn.
Correct me if I'm wrong but these are
typical indicies for this.
2. Your reading could be ok as the non-stock exhaust
hurts more than it really
helps. It would be very important to
see the torque data (curve) as well as
the power curve in the
5500 region.
3. If the timing got retarded after 5400 it's possible
that the engine is
running in early detonation causing to lower
the power then.
4. If the dyno is the problem than extrapolate your
reading to our curves and
you'll end around 382hp SAE at
5500-5600. This is absolutely possible and
not inaccurate if
your boost readings on the meter was ok.
Here the non-tech stuff :
> Will I go back to Accelerated Accesories? Sorry,
no. Too many other
> places will likely give better service and fulfill
their promises.
Not a lot people or shops do understand the power of
the Internet and the list.
I hope Matt & Frank will taking care of you as
they will loose their reputation
pretty quick. I just remember the GT Alley
thing and how fast his name got bad,
very bad !
That's it on this thing as we all know that flame-wars
are not allowed on the
list but informing us about the experience (good and
bad) is helpful to other
buyers.
Again, thanks for the
information.
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"'stealth@starnet.net'"
<stealth@starnet.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Seating
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:23:34 -0600
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Hey everyone:
I got a sparco seat catalog and I was flipping through
it I didn't realize
they sell allot of stuff from brakes to clothing to
seats. What I noticed
though they sell adjustable strut braces for more than
140 applications. I
saw one in the catalog that just may work for our cars
with the hood
clearance were it sinks down and then bends around to
accommodate what on
our cars would be the intake plenum. I'm curious if
anyone else has tried to
do this with these braces???
92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of Fun
Plates
(HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733
My local brake and muffler shop just charged me $35
(all labor, no
materials) to do the following:
1. Remove all four wheels.
2. Check rear pads
3.
Remove front rotor, replace broken wheel stud (I supplied)
4. Install new
carbon metallic pads (I supplied) in front -- while doing
this,
he cleaned all the little parts, ground down the edges on the old
carbon
metallic pads that came out (so I can use them for backup pads),
and
reassembled everything.
5. Bleed all four brakes, fill up with Racing
Blue (I supplied). Lots of
evil black stuff came out, mostly from the
calipers. Guess we cook even the
racing fluid, eh? (We put in Racing Blue
last year).
6. Hand-tighten the wheel lugs, then torque (with a real wrench,
not an air
tool) to 100 in-lb.
Total elapsed time: 1.5 hr.
I usually have the brake shop install new pads prior to
an event, because I
feel spending $35 3-4 times per year is a good
investment. That way, a pro
looks at the braking system on a regular
basis. I can handle a brake job
when necessary (I installed the new
PowerSlot rotors, for example),
especially at trackside, and I've had the
system apart a few times whilst
installing the cooling ducts.
Like most road racers, I carry a complete brake tool
kit with me to events
(spare rotors, pads, fluid, huge channel locks, small
channel locks, torque
wrench, drain hose for bleeding, etc.) It's a useful
skill to have when you
road race.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 14:20:37
1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> You'll notice on their web site that they offer
the option of deleting the
> speed limiter. This is on the VR4
specific page.
Yes, Barry is right and I didn't knew this. ALso the
speed limiter is disabled
by default and the only option is to rise the rpm
limiter (the most dangerous
thing)
Sorry for the confusing (I should stop work so
much)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 15:05:54
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: 176mph- reply
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I don't think there is a speed limiter which exists in
the VR-4's ECU.
I've heard of many people in Japan running to 280km/h to
300km/h+
without modifying the ECU. The only modifications would exist in the
VPC
and additional fuel control, while using the the stock ECU and an
F-CON
unit. I have heard that the car has severe drag limitation at 300
km/h
though.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 15:28:13
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Date:
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:44:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: Suspension & Brakes
installation
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Don't know much about the brakes, but when a friend of
mine had his
reprogrammed ECU installed and springs installed (all four
corners), the
total labor time charge for the two was 2.75 hours.
However an alignment
was not included.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 18:10:30
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Date:
Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:14:51 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
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Thanks for all the replies.. I thought that
larger wheels meant better handling and
better performance.. So would
there be a significant difference in going with a larger
rim and lower
profile tires? Right now, after thinking, I think I'm gonna go
with
17's. The previous owner has always had ZR's on there, and that's
what was on it when I
bought it. I'd kinda like to stick with the ZR's,
because of the performance.. Has
anyone out there delt with, I think its
this, the Nitto 555 or something like that,
that's supposed to be the #1 Z
rated tire with 69% tread touching at all times? Here
are some wheels
that I'm interested in:
O.Z. Monte Carlo chrome 17 x 8"
O.Z.
Competition 18 x 9"
Mille Miglia Emotion 17 x 8"
Fittipaldi AV3
17 x 8"
TRMotorsport Sniper 17 x 8"
What do you guys think of
these? Anthing else I should look at..? I also like the
Enkei
WUN-GUN wheels....
Leland
Leland Gray wrote:
> Currently I am running P225/55ZR-16 's on my
car.. a 93 Stealth ES.
> I'm note sure what size rims I have, I
think they are 16" Is it
> possible to run 18"s in the
front and 20"s in the rear? Is this wise as
> far a performance
and safety? Also, I was thinking about doing some
> lowering
springs.. Would a larger size wheel impact this in any way?
> Would there
be rubbing?
>
> Leland Gray
> 93 Stealth ES
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> You'll notice on their web site that they
offer the option of deleting the
> speed limiter. This is on the VR4
specific page.
Yes, Barry is right and I didn't knew this. ALso the
speed limiter is
disabled
by default and the only option is to rise the
rpm limiter (the most
dangerous
thing)
Sorry for the confusing (I should stop work so
much)
Later,
Roger
===============================
Roger, et.
al...
Just a clarification, since I just had my ECU upgraded
by G-force. You have
to sign a paper to have you rev limiter changed (to
absolve them of any
responsibility). There are two choices, adjust it to a
higher limit, or
remove it completely.
BTW...one of their claims is the removal of a speed
limiter. Since I've
never hit it, I don't know if it was really there or not.
Speedometer error
could account for some of the observed (but not measured)
speeds that are
above 159mph (which I believe is what Car & Driver
reported as max speed for
a stock VR4).
I'm hoping to find a smooth enough surface to break the
180mph mark. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
front mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
NGK double
platinum plugs gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 19:31:35
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:31:58
-0500
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Exhaust Tips for Stealth
To: Stealth-3000 <Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Hi All, Does anybody have FACTORY exhaust tips that
will fit my 1992 =
Dodge Stealth R/T
I am switching from single to dual
exhaust. Let me no how much you want =
for them. Thanks Ken
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi All,
Does anybody have FACTORY =
exhaust tips=20
that will fit my 1992 Dodge
Stealth R/T</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>I am switching from single to dual =
exhaust. Let=20
me no how
much you want for them. Thanks
Ken</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 20:10:49
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation - Roger
Date: Tue, 13 Apr
1999 22:06:28 -0500
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>It always depends where you live ! COme over to
Europe and you'll search
for a
>thicker wallet to be able to pay the
prices here.
>
Roger, I know firsthand about prices in Europe. I
was born and raised in
Sweden. When I was a young boy, the men used to
carry those disco looking
handbags that you carry by the wrist. I
thought it was because they wanted
to be cool, after all this was in the
70's. In reality it was just so they
could carry enough cash to pay for
a couple packs of smokes and gas :)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 20:42:43
1999
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From:
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Suspension & Brakes installation
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999
20:41:50 -0700
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If I had that much work done in California for $35 it
would have
to be at gunpoint. For $35 and no gun I could get them to
remove
all four wheels and they would want to keep two.
Jim
Berry 93 TT
>My local brake and muffler shop just charged me
$35 (all labor, no
>materials) to do the following:
>
>1.
Remove all four wheels.
>2. Check rear pads
>3. Remove front rotor,
replace broken wheel stud (I supplied)
>4. Install new carbon metallic
pads (I supplied) in front -- while doing
>this, he cleaned
all the little parts, ground down the edges on the old
>carbon metallic
pads that came out (so I can use them for backup pads), and
>reassembled
everything.
>5. Bleed all four brakes, fill up with Racing Blue (I
supplied). Lots of
>evil black stuff came out, mostly from the calipers.
Guess we cook even the
>racing fluid, eh? (We put in Racing Blue last
year).
>6. Hand-tighten the wheel lugs, then torque (with a real wrench,
not an air
>tool) to 100 in-lb.
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 21:14:39
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Date:
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From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
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Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
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Leland Gray wrote:
> Thanks for all the replies.. I thought that
larger wheels meant better handling and
> better performance.. So
would there be a significant difference in going with a larger
> rim and
lower profile tires?
If I understand correctly, Z rated tires have stiffer
sidewalls and will therefore handle
better. You may not ever see the
speeds that Z rated tires can withstand, but the handling
will most likely be
better. Also, no matter what size the rim is, the important factor
is
the circumferance of the tire. If you maintain the same
circumferance (larger rim, lower
profile tire) you should not have any
performance problems. However, if the circumferance
is increased too
much, you may not have the power to accelerate with the
increased
circumferance, and hurt acceleration. As far as weight goes,
a good aftermarket rim, even
larger, may weigh less. The biggest
problem with larger rims in the back would be for
rotating them forward to
even the wear out, it'd look kinda silly with 20s on the front and
18s on the
rear.
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 21:57:18
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:56:25
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As far as weight goes, a good aftermarket rim,
even
>larger, may weigh less. The biggest problem with larger rims
in the back
would be for
>rotating them forward to even the wear out,
it'd look kinda silly with 20s
on the front and
>18s on the
rear.
Even good rims will result in more unsprung weight
--- You're replacing an
air
filled rubber tube with metal. Unless
you go with some high tech racing rim
the metal will weigh more than the
rubber.
Jim Berry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 22:54:12
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Subject: Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
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Leland
\
Well bro in reply to your thoughts of
lowering and modifying the wheels and
springs:
i would only recomend
Eibach coil overs. And with the bigger wheels in the
rear will
probably mess up the camber alignment. So an alignment will
definately
be needed. And possibly a camber correction kit
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 13 23:09:31
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"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> This
should be easy to test actually. Run up to about 154-155 mph and
back
> off the throttle just enough to stop accelerating (but not slow
down) then
> nail the throttle again. If the soft limiter is indeed
working as described
> you should not accelerate past 156
mph.
I've done this on the Autobahn more than once and have
been able to
accelerate from a sustained 150 up to 160+. Incidentally,
my top speed
so far is 168 mph, though I think it could do a tad more
(173?). Roger
has gone faster, probably helped by his 13G turbos,
bigger injectors,
exhaust mods and different aerodynamics. I must say
that during top
speed runs my car does seem to just stop accelerating at
certain speeds,
not always the same. Interesting...
-Jim
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
"R.G." wrote:
>
> Analysing the
given data from you tells me the following story :
>
> 1. As your
max power was around 5100-5400 the BC has not finished to
learn.
> Correct me if I'm wrong but these are typical
indicies for this.
When I did my runs, I reset the SAVC-R settings each
time, so it never
completed a proper learn. In my experience, the
SAVC-R seems to start
out too aggressive and then back off as it
learns. My peak horsepower
was at 5680 and peak torque was at 5180
(though torque was nearly at
high at 2900).
> 2. Your reading could be ok as the non-stock
exhaust hurts more than it really
> helps. It would be
very important to see the torque data (curve) as well
as
> the power curve in the 5500 region.
I know it seems counterintuitive for turbocharged
engines, but from our
dyno sessions, a freer flowing exhaust is a
disadvantage with moderate
modifications because it shifts the torque curve
higher in the RPM
range, stealing power from low RPMs where the car is driven
more often
and adding power above 6000 RPMs where the stock fuel system maxes
out.
If anything, I would have expected his curves to peak at higher
RPMs
than mine. Note that Mike Chapleski's max power peaked at 6230,
550 RPM
higher than mine, due to exhaust mods. Roger also has exhaust
mods, but
his readings can't be used for such a comparison due to his stock
13G
turbos and bigger Eu-spec injectors, both of which change the
power
characteristics considerably.
> 3. If the timing got retarded after 5400 it's
possible that the engine is
> running in early
detonation causing to lower the power then.
Possible, but he did have the SAVC-R limited to 1.00
bar... if there is
detonation, I would think it would be only slight and
would occur higher
in the rev band. Too bad they couldn't test
this!
> 4. If the dyno is the problem than extrapolate
your reading to our curves and
> you'll end around 382hp
SAE at 5500-5600. This is absolutely possible and
> not
inaccurate if your boost readings on the meter was ok.
382 is definitely in the ballpark. BTW, thanx for
spelling that all
out, Roger!
Note that most of the above is described on our dyno
pages.
> Here the non-tech stuff :
>
>
> Will I go back to Accelerated Accesories? Sorry, no. Too many other
>
> places will likely give better service and fulfill their promises.
>
> Not a lot people or shops do understand the power of the Internet and
the list.
> I hope Matt & Frank will taking care of you as they will
loose their reputation
> pretty quick. I just remember the GT Alley thing
and how fast his name got bad,
> very bad !
Take a look at the stock market and it is obvious that
E-commerce is the
future. For those of us not living in the states,
there is no practical
alternative! Large and small corporations alike
are sacrificing other
programs to reallocate funds to their web sites and
Email
responsiveness, and they're reaping big rewards.
> That's it on this thing as we all know that
flame-wars are not allowed on the
> list but informing us about the
experience (good and bad) is helpful to other
> buyers.
Agreed.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 00:35:33
1999
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From: "Simon Jones"
<simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
To:
"3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re Team3S: 176mph- reply
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:37:15
+0100
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I have a Japanese GTO imported into the UK. In
Japan, there is a 180km/h
(~110mph) limit in the ECU. In the U.K. there
is a 155 mph limiter on most
cars that can do it (eg Jaguars / BMW have them,
but Ferrari don't).
I removed the limiter in my GTO by effectively slowing
down the speed signal
into the ECU electronically.
You could try to prove if there is any limit by
disconnecting the speed
sensor input into the ECU.
Regards,
>G-Force, who does the reprogramming on our ECU
do not know anything about a
>limiter. Maybe some countries do have this
limiter as our friend in the UK
had
>to install a speed governour when
he imported it.
>
>Anyways, my EU car does not have a limiter at all
;-)
Would it be useful to wipe the tires with bleach (or
something else) before
a launch?
This way, we could smoke all four without requiring a
4500 rpm dump or
clutch slip.
The reason I ask is because the best 0-60 time I've
gotten so far (5.50
sec) was on a damp (not wet) road, where I could spin the
tires easily.
Before I try this, what are the drawbacks? (besides
turning my tires white)
It would be kinda hard to jump out of the car at a
stoplight, but it might
work for acceleration runs with a G-Tech meter.
Comments?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 02:45:47
1999
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Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:47:15 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Chris, thanks for the link to another EFI
site.
Unfortunately, their prices are pretty high. An example
is the 3bar MAP sensor
from GM (Motorola) they sell for $79 and I can get it
for $49 retail ! The MAF
sensors are costing around $1000 with a tool that
allows you to tweak the signal
(like an S-AFC). The sensor looks pretty
similar to the one I do have in the
350ci Camaro but with an added flange for
proper mounting. Such a MAF with
housing is around $350 at a GM dealer and an
adapter could be made for say $70.
Now add a Blitz SUS or big K&N for
about $100-180 and the system would be
perfect. The only thing I don't know
is how compatible the signals are :( Time
for hooking up a scope,
hehe.
Unfortunately, all those systems do not look for the
MAP readings and therefore
are only rpm related. This is the big advantage of
the HKS VPC and Haltech EFI
systems.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 05:03:41
1999
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To:
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: factory plug wires+air filter for sale
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999
08:03:53 -0400
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All,
I have a factory air filter element and a set
of factory plug wires both
brand new in box that I am returning to
Mitsubishi. If anyone wants them the
filter is $25 and the wires are
$75.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 08:50:52
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Date:
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:14:25 -0600
From: Manoj Prasad <mprasad@uswest.net>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Exhaust Tips for Stealth
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I saw 3 factory exhaust tips for sale on the 3SI
classified. The person
wanted $20.00 for them + shipping.
Take a look there and see if they
are still available.
Rgds
Moep
Ken Taft wrote:
> Hi All, Does anybody have FACTORY exhaust
tips that will fit my 1992
> Dodge Stealth R/TI am switching from single
to dual exhaust. Let me no
> how much you want for them. Thanks
Ken
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I saw 3 factory exhaust tips for sale on the
3SI classified. The
person wanted $20.00 for them +
shipping. Take a look there
and see if they are still
available.
<p>Rgds
<br>Moep
<p>Ken Taft
wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE> <font
color="#000000"><font size=-1>Hi All,
Does anybody have
FACTORY exhaust tips that will fit my 1992 Dodge
Stealth
R/T</font></font><font
color="#000000"><font size=-1>I am switching from
single
to dual exhaust. Let me no how much you want for them. Thanks
Ken</font></font></blockquote>
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Date:
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:14:00 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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Hi Oskar,
You are correct. This labor seems to be about
double to me (excluding
the alignment). Having done all this myself
before (not an alignment
though), I would estimate as follows, given the
mechanic is a pro, the
shop has a hoist to lift the car completely off the
ground, and has a
good professional spring compressor:
all 4 springs 3.0 hours
all (8) brake hoses &
bleeding 1.5 hours
all 4 rotors & pads 1.5 hours
alignment 1.0
hours
total 7.0 hours
I actually think a pro should be able to do all this
well under 6.0
hours! If he'll use a floor jack and a junky spring
compressor, that
could easily add an hour.
You only have to hoist the car and remove and replace
the tires 1 time.
R&R of the rotors & pads only involve a spring
clip, 2 pins, and 2 bolts
for each corner. The new rotors should not
require any machining but
you should check with Stillen.
Get a package price from a few shops. Good
luck,
Ken
> > Hi all,
>
>
> > I'm having rotors, pads, steel braided brake lines and
lowering springs
> > installed on my '95 R/T TT. The quotes
I'm getting seem a bit high on
the
> > labor and I was hoping
to get some comments from the group. This is
all
> >
from the labor rate guide, but I'm wondering if there isn't
some
overlap
> > built in. I have my own
parts.
> >
> > Springs:
>
> Front 2.6 hrs
>
> Rear 2.8 hrs
>
>
> > Brake hose: (incl. bleeding)
>
> Front 1.6 hrs
>
> Rear 1.6 hrs
>
>
> > Brake pads
> >
Front 0.8 hrs
> >
R&R or renew rotors 0.8 hrs
>
> Rear 0.8 hrs
>
> R&R or renew rotors 0.8
hrs
> >
> > Total 11.8
hrs
> >
> > The alignment is supposedly thrown in
for free. The rotors are brand
new
> > Stillen cross
drilled. Is it correct to assume they can just
be
installed,
> > or do they have to be turned
first?
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three
lefts do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 09:29:35
1999
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Date:
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:27:19 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Brand new Centerforce duel
friction clutch 4 sale
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
stealth@starnet.net
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This New still in the box, Centerforce duel friction
clutch is for the turbo
model.
I just received a NEW one from Centerforce
to replace the one I glazed from
racing.
Centerforce replaced it with a
new one. Thank you Centerforce.
Guys, over 500HP this clutch will not hold up
on the track. Under 500HP its
great.
I really liked this clutch, you can
check my old posts. Good in traffic and
holds plenty of power, just not good
for 600+HP at 11 sec runs. 5 times a
day. (grin)
If I recall, cost was
about $750. for this top of the line model.
I'll sell for $500 with shipping
included. Its Brand New, never installed,
never taken out of the box, I just
got it today.
Arty 91 VR-4
Merritt wrote:
>
> Would it be useful to
wipe the tires with bleach (or something else) before
> a
launch?
I thought burnouts in bleach were meant to make the
tires more sticky,
so at the launch you spin less. Thus you can launch
at higher RPM and
get a quicker launch.
Your 0-60 times can be improved easily, you just have
to be harder
(abusive??) on your car :0.
On my '91 VR4 with FIPK & bleeder valve set at
15psi and at an altitude
of 1800 feet, my 0-60 G-Tech times are about 5.3 -
5.6 using clutch slip
launches. However, my quickest 0-60 times are
achieved by dumping the
clutch as follows: at stop, slip the clutch a
little to take out slack,
push clutch back in, nail the throttle, pop the
clutch as RPM reach 5500
without lifting throttle. I've only done this
twice, but they are
greatly improved 0-60 times. They were 4.79 and
4.81 on the same
stretch of rode in both directions, consistent and about 1/2
second
quicker.
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 09:59:11
1999
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Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:59:07 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel Management - Split Second
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:00:54
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Chris, I posted that link twice over the last few
months. I am glad someone
else followed up on it.
Roger, the signals of the hot wire airmeter and the
factory vortex airmeter
are totally incompatable, which is why they charge so
much for the
conversion system. This is NOT an RPM sensed system nor
speed/density like
the VPC, it measures airflow (true load) exactly like the
factory system.
The signal coming from the factory MAS is a
frequency. The signal from a
hotwire airmeter is analog, usually
ranging from 0 VDC to roughly 5 VDC.
The airmeter must be calibrated for airflow versus
output voltage, then the
calibration data must be translated into a frequency
which corresponds to
the flow seen by a frequency MAS. All this is
programmed into the device.
The Split Second approach is not quite as sophisticated
as the MASC but it
is very similar in principle. They use more of a VPC
approach using a
hardcoded initial algorithm with a few knobs to allow
tweaking the
parameters.
I don't see any reason why they could not adapt the
product for the VR4 and
with relative ease. It would be an excellent
alternative to the VPC
especially for later model cars. Although
pricey, they are close to the
price of a VPC and right where the MASC used to
be priced. The airmeters
look like Pro-M units (considered by many to
to be the best of the hot wire
breed), which are more expensive than GM
stuff.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
> Chris,
thanks for the link to another EFI site.
>
> Unfortunately, their
prices are pretty high. An example is the
> 3bar MAP sensor
> from
GM (Motorola) they sell for $79 and I can get it for $49
> retail ! The
MAF
> sensors are costing around $1000 with a tool that allows you
to
> tweak the signal
> (like an S-AFC). The sensor looks pretty
similar to the one I do
> have in the
> 350ci Camaro but with an
added flange for proper mounting. Such a MAF with
> housing is around $350
at a GM dealer and an adapter could be
> made for say $70.
> Now add
a Blitz SUS or big K&N for about $100-180 and the system would be
>
perfect. The only thing I don't know is how compatible the
> signals are
:( Time
> for hooking up a scope, hehe.
>
> Unfortunately, all
those systems do not look for the MAP readings
> and therefore
> are
only rpm related. This is the big advantage of the HKS VPC
> and Haltech
EFI
> systems.
>
> Regards,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT
TT
>
> > I forgot who posted it. I checked out http://www.splitsec.com. They
>
> make MAF Kits. I asked if they had any plans on making them for
the
> > 3000GT.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 10:25:24
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From: "Chris S."
<shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel Management - Split Second
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:25:56
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Now we need someone in California to get in contact
with them. Who
knows, the first guy probably would get a deal on it for
being the
"beta" tester. Once things are worked out maybe we
could get 5 people
together for a group purchase. This is all
speculation now. But it
sure would be nice.
Chris
>Chris, I posted that link twice over the last few
months. I am glad
someone
>else followed up on
it.
>
>Roger, the signals of the hot wire airmeter and the factory
vortex
airmeter
>are totally incompatable, which is why they charge so
much for the
>conversion system. This is NOT an RPM sensed system
nor
speed/density like
>the VPC, it measures airflow (true load)
exactly like the factory
system.
>
>The signal coming from the
factory MAS is a frequency. The signal
from a
>hotwire airmeter
is analog, usually ranging from 0 VDC to roughly 5
VDC.
>
>The
airmeter must be calibrated for airflow versus output voltage,
then
the
>calibration data must be translated into a frequency
which
corresponds to
>the flow seen by a frequency MAS. All this
is programmed into the
device.
>
>The Split Second approach is
not quite as sophisticated as the MASC
but it
>is very similar in
principle. They use more of a VPC approach using
a
>hardcoded
initial algorithm with a few knobs to allow tweaking
the
>parameters.
>
>I don't see any reason why they could not
adapt the product for the
VR4 and
>with relative ease. It would
be an excellent alternative to the VPC
>especially for later model
cars. Although pricey, they are close to
the
>price of a VPC and
right where the MASC used to be priced. The
airmeters
>look like
Pro-M units (considered by many to to be the best of the
hot
wire
>breed), which are more expensive than GM
stuff.
>
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Barry
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 10:41:57
1999
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From: "Chris S."
<shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel Management - Split Second
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:41:46
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I emailed Split Second asking them to join the
list. It would be alot
easier to work something out that
way.
Chris
>
>I thought burnouts in bleach were meant to
make the tires more sticky,
>so at the launch you spin less. Thus
you can launch at higher RPM and
>get a quicker launch.
I think they are used by the bigbadguys to make the
tires slippery, so they
will spin madly and heat up the drag slicks. That's
what the smokey burnout
is for.
>
>Your 0-60 times can be
improved easily, you just have to be harder
>(abusive??) on your car :0.
That's what I'm trying to avoid.
Merritt wrote:
>
> >
> >I
thought burnouts in bleach were meant to make the tires more sticky,
>
>so at the launch you spin less. Thus you can launch at higher RPM
and
> >get a quicker launch.
>
> I think they are used by
the bigbadguys to make the tires slippery, so they
> will spin madly and
heat up the drag slicks. That's what the smokey burnout
> is
for.
If they just want slippery, why not use water?
It's cheaper. I think
the bleach also chemically causes the rubber to
become more gooey/sticky
along with the heat from the burnout. I'm just
speculating...
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 11:07:49
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Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:08:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Klassen
<mike_klassen@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SRS light
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My SRS light is on and I was wondering if anyone knew a
way to reset it? I
took it to the dealer and they found that it was
both rear wheel sensors that
had gotten iced up. They cleaned them off
and it went off. It's too warm for
any ice build up now. Maybe its
moisture buildup? Any ideas?
Mike Klassen 92 RT
NA
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> Merritt
wrote:
> >
> > >
> > >I thought burnouts in
bleach were meant to make the tires more sticky,
> > >so at the
launch you spin less. Thus you can launch at higher RPM and
> >
>get a quicker launch.
> >
> > I think they are used by the
bigbadguys to make the tires slippery, so they
> > will spin madly and
heat up the drag slicks. That's what the smokey burnout
> > is
for.
>
> If they just want slippery, why not use water? It's
cheaper. I think
> the bleach also chemically causes the rubber to
become more gooey/sticky
> along with the heat from the burnout. I'm
just speculating...
I guess I could have been clearer. The goal here
is to improve tire
grip using heat AND a (cheap) chemical. As
horesepower goes up, so does
the need for grip. They only want to spin
the tires to heat them up,
not when they launch.
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 11:31:25
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Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS light
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Mike:
I'm going through the same thing right now. Mine
came on Friday. The
dealer wants $35 to run the diagnostics to tell me
what's wrong. One
person indicated that it *may* come on at a preset
interval for checking,
but I don't know if that's true or not. Another
indicated that the
dealer simply by running the diagnostics would turn it
back off. Again,
I don't know if that's true either. I asked the
mechanic this and he
indicated that this scenario only applied to other
vehicles like trucks
and such, not in this instance with this system.
Basically he told me
one of the sensors must be bad. I'm not sure I
beleive that either. I'm
curious, how many miles do you have on
yours? I just turned 108,5K.
Regards,
Scott
'92 VR4
>My SRS light is on and I was wondering if anyone
knew a way to reset
>it? I
>took it to the dealer and they
found that it was both rear wheel
>sensors that
>had gotten iced
up. They cleaned them off and it went off. It's too
>warm
for
>any ice build up now. Maybe its moisture buildup? Any
ideas?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 11:46:49
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From: Michael Klassen
<mike_klassen@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SRS light
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Scott
What a coincidence! Mine has 108k
(kilometers) as well. I don't believe in
coincidence, what about
you?
Mike
--- Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com> wrote:
>
Mike:
>
> I'm going through the same thing right now. Mine
came on Friday. The
> dealer wants $35 to run the diagnostics to
tell me what's wrong. One
> person indicated that it *may* come on
at a preset interval for checking,
> but I don't know if that's true or
not. Another indicated that the
> dealer simply by running the
diagnostics would turn it back off. Again,
> I don't know if that's
true either. I asked the mechanic this and he
> indicated that this
scenario only applied to other vehicles like trucks
> and such, not in
this instance with this system. Basically he told me
> one of the
sensors must be bad. I'm not sure I beleive that either. I'm
>
curious, how many miles do you have on yours? I just turned
108,5K.
>
> Regards,
>
> Scott
> '92 VR4
>
> >My SRS light is on and I was wondering if anyone knew a way to
reset
> >it? I
> >took it to the dealer and they found
that it was both rear wheel
> >sensors that
> >had gotten
iced up. They cleaned them off and it went off. It's too
> >warm
for
> >any ice build up now. Maybe its moisture buildup?
Any ideas?
>
>
>
___________________________________________________________________
> You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get
completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
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> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 11:53:29
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Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:54:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Klassen
<mike_klassen@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: SRS light
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I just looked up the TSB's at all data, what do you
suppose this one says?
080293 JAN 93
Supplemental Restraint Diagnostic Code Erase Function
Mike
--- Michael Klassen <mike_klassen@yahoo.com>
wrote:
> Scott
> What a coincidence! Mine has 108k
(kilometers) as well. I don't believe in
> coincidence, what about
you?
> Mike
>
> --- Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com> wrote:
> >
Mike:
> >
> > I'm going through the same thing right
now. Mine came on Friday. The
> > dealer wants $35 to run
the diagnostics to tell me what's wrong. One
> > person indicated
that it *may* come on at a preset interval for checking,
> > but I
don't know if that's true or not. Another indicated that the
> >
dealer simply by running the diagnostics would turn it back off.
Again,
> > I don't know if that's true either. I asked the
mechanic this and he
> > indicated that this scenario only applied to
other vehicles like trucks
> > and such, not in this instance with this
system. Basically he told me
> > one of the sensors must be
bad. I'm not sure I beleive that either. I'm
> > curious,
how many miles do you have on yours? I just turned 108,5K.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Scott
> > '92
VR4
> >
> > >My SRS light is on and I was wondering if
anyone knew a way to reset
> > >it? I
> > >took
it to the dealer and they found that it was both rear wheel
> >
>sensors that
> > >had gotten iced up. They cleaned them
off and it went off. It's too
> > >warm for
> > >any
ice build up now. Maybe its moisture buildup? Any ideas?
>
>
> >
> >
___________________________________________________________________
> >
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> >
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> > http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For
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> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> What a coincidence! Mine has 108k
(kilometers) as well. I don't believe in
> coincidence, what about
you?
My SRS light has been on for 6 or 7 weeks since my
battery died. I have
93K miles on my '91.
I still haven't solicited help from the other lists
yet, but it seems
silly to have to pay for a diagnostic just to reset the
light.
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 12:22:11
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:20:26
-0700
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The figures are in kW. Taking your wheel reading of 197
(I come to the 227
later) these are 147kW, only around 39kW (52.3hp) less
than our readings.
Using
a loss of around 77.0kW this equals to around
300hp flywheel uncorrected.
Trying
to correct it to SAE results in 337hp
SAE. As the correction factor is more
wrong in the "lower" hp area
you'll read around 330hp SAE. A 10hp gain with
intake and exhaust... well,
let's say only the intake and a good engine as
the
exhaust dosn't help
anything in this boost area. My calculations assume your
wheel readings are
not corrected to anything.
Ok, let's take the 227hp now that equals in
169.3kW, +77kW loss = 246.3kW
(~16kW
less than we had). Now with the
correction factor this results in 370hp SAE
flywheel.
Analysing the given data from you tells me the
following story :
1. As your max power was around 5100-5400 the BC has
not finished to learn.
Correct me if I'm wrong but these are
typical indicies for this.
2. Your reading could be ok as the non-stock exhaust
hurts more than it
really
helps. It would be very important
to see the torque data (curve) as well
as
the power curve in
the 5500 region.
3. If the timing got retarded after 5400 it's possible
that the engine is
running in early detonation causing to lower
the power then.
4. If the dyno is the problem than extrapolate your
reading to our curves
and
you'll end around 382hp SAE at
5500-5600. This is absolutely possible and
not inaccurate if
your boost readings on the meter was ok.
Here's the funnny thing. I didn't mention this
beforehand, because I didn't
want to "lead the witness". I was
thinking the same thing you guys were as
far as the calculations you offered.
While I was standing there at the dyno,
watching the car fly throught its'
gears, I saw the 'ROAD HP' figure peak at
266 for an instant. I immediately
made a noise to indicate I was impressed
and expected to see this on the
printed results. Unfortunately, once the
results were displayed on the screen
I noticed that instead of the peak 266
that I had seen on the screen, there
was only a peak of 227. I was a bit
puzzled and asked the mechanic what the
hell happened to the 266 I saw on
the screen. He shrugged his shoulders and
said, "Um... I dunno, maybe it was
a spike". I'm beginning to think
that the mechanic was measuring the wrong
rpm range the whole time. At
5100-5400 I may indeed have been making 227
Road HP, but especially with the
aftermarket exhaust and intake I should
have been seeing the peak HP at a
higher rpm range. I'm guessing the dyno,
which was setup to only record the
RPM ranges and HP readings at 80, 85, 90,
and 95mph speeds, was not sampling
at the correct RPM range for peak
horsepower... somewhere around 6000-6100.
Now, I'm a little bit confused about the S-AVCR. You
say that you've set it
to
1.00 bars but have you driven it around a while
to let it learn the proper
curve
? Also you haven't said anything about
the boost the meter peaked on the
dyno
and this is the first important
thing. The second one are the EGT readings
and
finally readings of the
intake temperatures for the comparison would be
great
too.
They had only finished setting up the BC a few
minutes before the last dyno
run. I can almost guarantee the unit had not
properly learned the boost
envelope. But according to others on the list,
this would have actually
caused boost spikes and overshoot, rather than
hurting the performance.
Anyway, what kinda numbers are we talking about once
you use your voodoo
formulas on the 266 "spike"?
Thanks.
Dave
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 12:27:47
1999
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: UPRD Dyno results in California
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:25:59
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Sorry for the format of my previous post. It didn't
seem to post correctly
in HTML format. Here is the corrected
post:
> Thank you very much for your report, and I'm sorry
that
> you've been used by UPRD
> to learn more about their dyno.
But welcome to the club ! I
> just remember our
> Supra friend that
tried to dyno his automatic :)
>
> Regarding your dyno number
these are the numbers from Jim,
> Mike and me :
>
> rpm loss wheel
fly DIN
> Mike 6230, 78.0, 184, 262.0, 264
> Jim 5680, 79.5, 185, 264.5, 266
> Roger 5450, 73.5,
188, 261.5, 263
>
> The figures are in kW. Taking your wheel
reading of 197 (I
> come to the 227
> later) these are 147kW, only
around 39kW (52.3hp) less than
> our readings. Using
> a loss of
around 77.0kW this equals to around 300hp flywheel
> uncorrected.
Trying
> to correct it to SAE results in 337hp SAE. As the correction
> factor is more
> wrong in the "lower" hp area you'll
read around 330hp SAE. A
> 10hp gain with
> intake and exhaust...
well, let's say only the intake and a
> good engine as the
>
exhaust dosn't help anything in this boost area. My
> calculations assume
your
> wheel readings are not corrected to anything.
>
> Ok,
let's take the 227hp now that equals in 169.3kW, +77kW
> loss = 246.3kW
(~16kW
> less than we had). Now with the correction factor this
>
results in 370hp SAE
> flywheel.
>
> Analysing the given data
from you tells me the following story :
>
> 1. As your max power
was around 5100-5400 the BC has not
> finished to
learn.
> Correct me if I'm wrong but these are typical
indicies for this.
>
> 2. Your reading could be ok as the non-stock
exhaust hurts
> more than it really
> helps. It
would be very important to see the torque data
> (curve) as well
as
> the power curve in the 5500 region.
>
> 3. If the timing got retarded after 5400 it's possible that
>
the engine is
> running in early detonation causing to
lower the power then.
>
> 4. If the dyno is the problem than
extrapolate your reading
> to our curves and
>
you'll end around 382hp SAE at 5500-5600. This is
> absolutely possible
and
> not inaccurate if your boost readings on the meter
was ok.
Here's the funnny thing. I didn't mention this
beforehand, because I didn't
want to "lead the witness". I was
thinking the same thing you guys were as
far as the calculations you offered.
While I was standing there at the dyno,
watching the car fly throught its'
gears, I saw the 'ROAD HP' figure peak at
266 for an instant. I immediately
made a noise to indicate I was impressed
and expected to see this on the
printed results. Unfortunately, once the
results were displayed on the screen
I noticed that instead of the peak 266
that I had seen on the screen, there
was only a peak of 227. I was a bit
puzzled and asked the mechanic what the
hell happened to the 266 I saw on
the screen. He shrugged his shoulders and
said, "Um... I dunno, maybe it was
a spike". I'm beginning to think
that the mechanic was measuring the wrong
rpm range the whole time. At
5100-5400 I may indeed have been making 227
Road HP, but especially with the
aftermarket exhaust and intake I should
have been seeing the peak HP at a
higher rpm range. I'm guessing the dyno,
which was setup to only record the
RPM ranges and HP readings at 80, 85, 90,
and 95mph speeds, was not sampling
at the correct RPM range for peak
horsepower... somewhere around 6000-6100.
> Now, I'm a little bit confused about the S-AVCR.
You say that
> you've set it to
> 1.00 bars but have you driven it
around a while to let it
> learn the proper curve
> ? Also you
haven't said anything about the boost the meter
> peaked on the
dyno
> and this is the first important thing. The second one are the
> EGT readings and
> finally readings of the intake temperatures
for the
> comparison would be great
> too.
>
They had only finished setting up the BC a few minutes
before the last dyno
run. I can almost guarantee the unit had not properly
learned the boost
envelope. But according to others on the list, this would
have actually
caused boost spikes and overshoot, rather than hurting the
performance.
Anyway, what kinda numbers are we talking about once
you use your voodoo
formulas on the 266 "spike"?
Thanks.
Dave
Dave Allison wrote:
snip
> >
> >
Regarding your dyno number these are the numbers from Jim,
> > Mike and
me :
> >
> >
rpm loss wheel fly DIN
> > Mike
6230, 78.0, 184, 262.0, 264
> > Jim 5680, 79.5, 185, 264.5,
266
> > Roger 5450, 73.5, 188, 261.5, 263
> >
snip
> Anyway, what kinda numbers are we talking
about once you use your voodoo
> formulas on the 266
"spike"?
According to the numbers above, Mikes loss was 78kW /
262kW = .2977 or
29.77%, Jims loss was 79.5 / 264.5 = 30.06%, and Roger's
loss was 73.5 /
261.5 = 28.11% for an average loss of 29.33%. So an
average wheel HP to
flywheel HP multiplier is 1 / ( 1.00 - .2933 ) =
1.41. Since your wheel
HP was obtained in Hunington Beach, you probably
don't need to correct
for altitude. So just multiply your spike
out: 266 * 1.41 ~= 376.
Still seems too low. I think there were
dyno operator errors... :(
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 16:43:02
1999
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Date:
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:38:42 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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leland
Sorry about the lasty reply i got cut off. Any
way bigger rims and lower
profile tires won't do much performance
wise. It is many for the killer
looks. Remember if you decide to
drop the vehicle (which I will be doing
shortly with this set up) I
recommend Tokico shocks and Eibach coil overs. I
am going to try the
adjustable ones. The total set up (w/o adjustable)
should be around
$500 with the adjustable ones it should be around $6-700.
Good luck
and get back with me when youo do so I can see just how good it
works.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 18:55:08
1999
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Date:
Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:59:30 -0400
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: TO ALL YOU STEALTH/3000GT ENTHUSIASTS!
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I don't know what kind of jobs all of you have to
support your addiction
to your car, but I have found it hard to support my
habit. How would
like to earn enough money to support your current car,
whatever it may
be, and go out there and buy the new 1999 VR-4 that just came
out? And
modify that one too without having to worry about the
money! Check out
this website that will present you with the means to
do this.
www.countdown9199.com
Email be to tell me what you think, and if you
are interested.
PLEASE!! Email ME only.. PLEASE DO NOT POST
THIS BACK TO THE LIST.
On a separate note.. I think I have decided to pursue a
set of Enkei
Wun-Gun's and some Nitto NT555's for my baby..
Leland Gray
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 22:08:28
1999
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Date:
Thu, 15 Apr 1999 01:07:57 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Dan,
When do you plan on doing this? How low are you
planning on going? I am about
at this stage with my car, and have yet to do
anything to it.. What all have
you done to your car? I am new to this list
and would like to introduce
myself... I'm Jeff, jeff Williams.. I drive a 93
White ES with 17" TR
Motorsport Typhoon wheels, Pioneer 815 Cd head
unit, Pioneer DeQ 7200,
Pioneer 4 way 6x9's and more in the works. Ohh yeh..
I took the resonator
off.. : ) But that's it.. I'm just getting started and
would love to hear any
comments..
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 14 23:15:06
1999
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Date:
Thu, 15 Apr 1999 02:14:13 EDT
Subject: Team3S: 18"s on an ES?
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hello,
I am currently thinking about putting 18's on my car,
and lowering it 1.75
inches.. Will i have any rubbing problems?
Thanks..
My friend wants to race me in his '98 Prelude Type
SH. I was wondering
how my '94 3000GT NA will stack up against his
car(200hp?)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 08:47:27
1999
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S:
Yellow VR4 for sale in VA/MD/DC area
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there is a yellow w/tan interior VR-4 for sale in the
Virginia, Maryland,
Washington DC area.
1994 (only year with all the options, BEST
YEAR!)
39k (nice low mileage)
100% perfect condition
they are asking 23k, but all you need to offer is 19k
cuz i'm sure they
picked it up for around 16-17.
Fairfax Motors, 703-273-5003
Lemme know if you buy it.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 10:23:42
1999
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Team3S: Warning
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Members;
A Police Car will shortly be slowly cruising through
the group
cum loudspeakers. Please pay attention to what is said. Thanks
in
advance.
Darc
for all the admin
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 10:51:38
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Date:
Thu, 15 Apr 1999 10:51:33 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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Team3S: tranny leak
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I've recently developed a little leak from the tranny
on my '91 VR4. It
is leaking out of the side closest to the passenger
wheel above the
drain plug. It appears that some sort of plug is
missing. Has anyone
else experienced a leak from this area and is there
a plug of some sort
that might be missing?
Thanks,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 11:07:58
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Date:
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Team3S: 3000GT NA vs...(MODERATOR MESSAGE)
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
PLEASE REMEMBER :
It is the intention of this list to keep this kind of
messages off from here !
Please sunscribe to the other Starnet and Dragnet
lists to discuss this stuff
there.
Maybe some of the members forgot but this list was set
up to discuss technical
stuff and to help people out of problems with the
combined knowledge of this
group. It is impossible to keep all the noise off
and we are more tolerant than
other lists and therefore some messages are not
of much use for everyone. Please
always use your own brain filter when post a
message :)
Thanks everyone for your help,
Roger
(one of the
Moderators)
> My friend wants to race me in his '98 Prelude
Type SH. I was wondering
> how my '94 3000GT NA will stack up against his
car(200hp?)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 14:33:56
1999
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Date:
Thu, 15 Apr 1999 16:46:35 -0500
From: Brad Younkman <stealth@digitalexp.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: Spark Plugs
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I have a 91 RT TT and have heard alot about our
cars killing cheaper
spark plugs. Has anyone tried the Bosch Platinum +4
plugs and compared
them to the NGK plugs?
Also, is there anyone out there that does all their own
maintenance that
wouldn't mind me calling them or lives in the Ft. Walton
Beach, FL area
and asking a few questions about changing the clutch and
fluids in ours
cars. E-mail me privately about calling.
Thanks
Brad
91 Stealth R/T TT (#078)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 14:34:01
1999
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From: Brad Younkman
<stealth@digitalexp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plugs
X-Spanska:
Yes
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 99 16:42:49 CST
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 17:13:32
1999
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From: "Art Charette K6XT"
<k6xt@arrl.net>
To: "Stealth
Post Email" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Lights Out - Help
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 17:13:14
-0700
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Gents
Maybe someone has heard of this:
The rear running lights and all the dash lights on my
92 TT Stealth blink
out intermittently. Once they're off, most of the time
they stay off as I
continue to drive. After awhile, half hour or so, they may
decide to come
back on.
Headlights stay on and brake lamps work while the rest
are out.
Anyone have a clue?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 17:33:35
1999
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Message-ID: <006601be87a0$b991a680$a4f086cd@BobForrest>
From:
"Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc:
"Rich" <rleroy@pacifier.com>, "Roger"
<robby@swissonline.ch>,
"Darc" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>, "Jim"
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
"Chris" <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>,
"Mikael Akesson" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: URGENT
MESSAGE TO ALL !!!
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 17:33:12 -0700
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The infamous "Win32-SKA" VIRUS was in Brad's
attachment to the note below
("Happy99.exe"). Every single
one of you on the list should immediately
DELETE this email if it made it
through the Majordomo virus protection to
the Team3S list. DO NOT open
it, and DO NOT run "Happy99.exe"!!!
PLEASE, run a virus scan on your machine if the message
got through to
you... I can't tell from here, because EVERYTHING sent
to the list comes to
me whether the Majordomo software allows the message
through to the list or
not.
DO NOT send ANY emails to ANYONE if you received this
email below with the
"Happy99.exe" attachment, UNTIL you have
deleted it from your machine and
performed the virus check.
Forrest
Admin, Team3S
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Younkman
<stealth@digitalexp.com>
To:
undisclosed-recipients:; <undisclosed-recipients:;>
Date: Thursday,
April 15, 1999 2:34 PM
Subject: Team3S: Spark Plugs
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 19:25:20
1999
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Organization: West Coast
Ethnographics
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Lights Out - Help
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<000001be879d$eb861200$0100a8c0@artwork>
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Art;
Often fuses are partially faulty and will give an
intermitten problem. They look good
but are not. Check to insure
everything's plugged in firm with the fuse and on the
appropriate connectors.
Otherwise you'll be into a wiring check..look for a partially
bare wire in an
area where rub/wear can occur. Hope it's the fuse or plug connector,
the
latter is a hair puller.
Best
Darc
Art Charette K6XT wrote:
snip
> Headlights stay on and brake lamps work while
the rest are out.
>
> Anyone have a clue?
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 19:27:28
1999
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Message-ID: <3716A0AE.6DF0F4EA@earthlink.net>
Date:
Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:30:06 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: tranny leak
References: <37162725.6813C4CE@omega.gat.com>
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Yes but all I got from the list was take it to a
dealer!!!!
Mine is slowly streaming down the case and dripping off
2 -3 drops a
night in the garage only if I push the car hard on the way
home.
Looked much worse tonight but it rained hard today so I can't
tell
water from oil on the ply wood.
Ron
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> I've recently
developed a little leak from the tranny on my '91 VR4. It
> is
leaking out of the side closest to the passenger wheel above the
> drain
plug. It appears that some sort of plug is missing. Has
anyone
> else experienced a leak from this area and is there a plug of
some sort
> that might be missing?
>
> Thanks,
>
Ken
>
> --
> Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
>
> Ken Middaugh
> General Atomics
> San
Diego
> (619) 455-4510
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 19:38:45
1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Parts for sale
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:43:18 -0400
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I am selling the following parts:
(2) TD04 15G turbos. Ported/ Polished and
clipped. Used for 1000 miles.
$1750
(6) RC 560cc four spray injectors. Used for
1000 miles. $600
(1) HKS VPC w/550cc chip. NEVER OPENED.
BRAND NEW. $750
Visa and Mastercard accepted. I must sell the
above parts asap. I will pay
shipping costs. call
301-824-3337
Matt
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 19:46:20
1999
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Date:
Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:48:57 -0400
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: URGENT MESSAGE TO ALL !!!
References:
<006601be87a0$b991a680$a4f086cd@BobForrest>
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This site gives complete removal instructions. It is
NOT
destructive...
Ron
Bob Forrest wrote:
>
> The infamous
"Win32-SKA" VIRUS was in Brad's attachment to the note below
>
("Happy99.exe"). Every single one of you on the list should
immediately
> DELETE this email if it made it through the Majordomo virus
protection to
> the Team3S list. DO NOT open it, and DO NOT run
"Happy99.exe"!!!
>
> PLEASE, run a virus scan on your
machine if the message got through to
> you... I can't tell from
here, because EVERYTHING sent to the list comes to
> me whether the
Majordomo software allows the message through to the list or
>
not.
>
> DO NOT send ANY emails to ANYONE if you received this
email below with the
> "Happy99.exe" attachment, UNTIL you have
deleted it from your machine and
> performed the virus check.
>
> Forrest
> Admin, Team3S
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Brad Younkman <stealth@digitalexp.com>
> To:
undisclosed-recipients:; <undisclosed-recipients:;>
> Date:
Thursday, April 15, 1999 2:34 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Spark Plugs
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 20:52:51
1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
"'Brad Younkman'" <stealth@digitalexp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Warning VIRUS Happy99
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:11:17
-0400
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Brad, you're infected with the HAPPY99
virus.
If any of you guys clicked on it, you're infected
too.
Here's how to remove it
This is a worm program, NOT a virus. This program has
reportedly been
received through email spamming and USENET newsgroup posting.
The file is
usually named HAPPY99.EXE in the email or article
attachment.
When being executed, the program also opens a window entitled
Happy
New Year 1999 !! showing a firework display to disguise its
other
actions. The program copies itself as SKA.EXE and extracts a DLL that
it
carries as SKA.DLL into WINDOWS\SYSTEM directory. It also
modifies
WSOCK32.DLL in WINDOWS\SYSTEM directory and copies the
original
WSOCK32.DLL into WSOCK32.SKA.
WSOCK32.DLL handles
internet-connectivity in Windows 95 and 98. The
modification to WSOCK32.DLL
allows the worm routine to be triggered when
a connect or send activity is
detected. When such online activity occurs,
the modified code loads the
worm's SKA.DLL. This SKA.DLL creates a new
email or a new article with
UUENCODED HAPPY99.EXE inserted into the email
or article. It then sends this
email or posts this article.
If WSOCK32.DLL is in use when the worm tries to
modify it (i.e. a user is
online), the worm adds a registry
entry
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\RunOnce=SKA.EXE
The
registry entry loads the worm the next time Windows start.
Removing the worm manually
delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.EXE
delete
WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.DLL
replace WINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.DLL with
WINDOWS\SYSTEM\WSOCK32.SKA
delete the downloaded file, usually named
HAPPY99.EXE
Safe Computing
This worm and other trojan-horse type
programs demonstrate the need
to practice safe computing. One should not
execute any executable-file
attachment (i.e. EXE, SHS, MS Word or MS Excel
file) that comes from an
email or a newsgroup article from an unknown or a
untrusted source.
<< File: Happy99.exe >>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 20:53:33
1999
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From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
<KPuckett@msn.com>,
<speedgear@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Performance Shop - Mail Order
Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:03:06
-0400
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hi guys,
remember that recent discussion about finding a good
performance shop that
would do mail order ?
I'd suggest to try the following one.
SGP
110 West Helgra
Deer Park, TX 77036
Phone
: 281/479-2475
Fax: 281/479-2516
WWW.SGPRacing.Com
I just visited them today, and asked them if they would
be interested in the
3000GT / Stealth business, and the answer is a clear
YES.
These guys can use a credit card, they KNOW how to do
international
business, and even if their MAIN course is not the 3S (it's the
300 ZX TT,
and that's why I know thwm), they'd have no problem to work on
any
turbocharged car.
>From a personal point of view, I already ordered
parts from them, and was
always pleased with their service.
And the parts
required to modify my TT_Stealth will come from these guys.
I also know that a LOT of members of the www.twinturbo.net are swearing
they're
the best, and they haven't got any bad report on the board....
Best
Henri
PS: Naaah, in case you wonder, I do NOT work
for them , and I don't get any
special discount..:-)
===============================
> To all Team3S list subscribers:
>
>
The seven subscribers who formed and oversee this list operate as one,
with
> equal authority and access to the software, and a common goal of
making sure
> that all of the information posted here is of a technical
nature pertaining
> to the Dodge Stealth and Mitsubishi 3000GT. We
collaborate on administrative
> chores, and whoever originates an idea
normally posts it, although we all have
> a "hand"
> in
the wording. We chose to create a technical list without flames, chat,
or
> fluff, and we listed a set of standards which each member is expected
to
> respect.
>
> In keeping with that goal, we try to
minimize admin posts going out to the
> list that are unrelated, including
the workings of the list itself, and open
> discussions about warnings
and/or removal of those who have chosen not to
> adhere to the rules, etc.
We keep those discussions private to ensure that
> we ourselves follow our
own rules and only post technical information about
> the
cars.
>
> From time to time, members will make mistakes, with a post
going out
> accidentally, or they forget to turn off the HTML used in a
previous email
> session; we admins make those mistakes too, so we assume
that the occasional
> posting error was inadvertent. Subscribers who
blatantly and repeatedly
> disregard the rules are sent a big reminders
(by whichever one of the
> admins that happens to notice the violation) to
correct the situation. Also,
> there are times that we admins don't notice
a problem, and one of you
> suggests that we give it our attention.
Blatent violations and a total
> disregard for rules, however, will meet
with immediate expulsion from the
> group. Finally, if there is a spat of
what is considered Fluff, BS, Spam or
> other childish endevours, this
notice may be reposted as a generic reminder
> that we are tired of
sending the multitude of private warnings and reminders
> required to end
it. Take the non technical chat to another list or communicate
>
privately. This courtesy also holds true for Fonts, HTML, Color, etc.
Turn
> them off when responding to the list as it plays havoc with our
software.
>
> Please review the rules you committed to when you
subscribed to this list.
> They can be found at:
>
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S-Rules.htm
>
>
For questions you may have of all of us, you may reach us at:
>
> owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
>
>
or you may reach us individually at:
>
> Bob Forrest, San Francisco,
CA, USA bf@bobforrest.com
>
Chris Winkley, Portland, OR, USA cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
>
Darcy Gunnlaugson, Victoria, B.C., CANADA wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> Jim Matthews,
Wiesbaden, GERMANY matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
>
Mikael Akesson, Stockholm, SWEDEN vr4@bahnhof.se
> Rich LeRoy, Ridgefield,
WA, USA rleroy@pacifier.com
> Roger Gerl,
Zurich, SWITZERLAND robby@swissonline.ch
>
>
Thank you for your attention and support,
>
> The Admins,
Team3S
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Apr 15 23:45:27
1999
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Message-ID: <45650021.24483659@aol.com>
Date:
Fri, 16 Apr 1999 02:44:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: wheels and tires
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Well to tell you the truth I haven't really been able
to boost up my car that
much. Money and right now in between
jobs. But i tell you the best things
to do are 1. Get or find
back issues of Super Street 2. Read Sport Compact
Car 3. check out
NexusMotorsports.com
AND LAST BUT NOT LEAST CHILL WITH TEAM 3S. I get
the best tips and mods out
of these four things. Also remember to shop
around. There are killer deals
out there you just gotta find
them. M&S Recycling is a "junkyard" of Mitsus'
and
Sarurns. They have good deals supposedly. I haven't checked them out
yet. But am planning to when I move back to Cali. As for my ride
I have 16"
ALT 180s', resonater removed, some stickers, shift nob, razo
cigarette
lighter, K&N FIPK, and ALOT of ideas. Going to get the
Erubuni body kit and
racing body ($2,000) The body isn't by Erebuni but a
raacing company I came
across onthe web under web search DODGE
STEALTH. You have to do somoe mad
digging but it is in there. I
ordered a mag from them 2 months ago but have
yet to receive it. Oh
well i hope this helps.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 02:23:20
1999
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Final Word on the "Happy99" VIRUS...
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999
02:22:23 -0700
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Here's everything you need to know about the
"Happy99" Virus (or 'Worm').
Please, take any other posts about it private--
it is illegal to post them
to the list...
>From our rules...:
"05.
----------snip----------
Anyone who posts a virus warning to the list
will be banned permanently
without warning."
This post contains:
1. How to check if you
have been "infected".
2. How to fix it.
3. How to
find out who else you may have infected.
*******How to remove Happy99.exe 'Worm' Virus
*******
You can remove this Trojan manually from your
computer.
To do that, first check the WINDOWS\SYSTEM folder for the presence
of these
files.
1. SKA.EXE
2. SKA.DLL
3. WSOCK32.SKA
If you find these files then you have been attacked by
the Happy99 Trojan.
To remove this Trojan do the following:
1. Delete SKA.EXE, SKA.DLL and WSOCK32.DLL
2. Rename
WSOCK32.SKA as WSOCK32.DLL
Make sure that you have WSOCK32.SKA file before
deleting WSOCK32.DLL and
ensure that you have renamed this file properly. You
may have to close your
Browser, Email software, etc. to delete and rename the
DLL files.
(Note: If you have Internet Explorer integrated
Windows,
you may have to do it in ms-dos mode):
1. Shut down windows with the RESTART IN MS-DOS MODE
option.
2. At the prompt type the bold
text.
C:\WINDOWS>cd system
3. Next prompt and command:
C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM>del
wsock32.dll
4. And finally:
C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM>ren wsock32.ska
wsock32.dll
Then restart your computer.
Open the file C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM\liste.ska in your
NOTEPAD to see a list of
who you may have infected with the Happy99 worm
virus.)
Email privately with any questions...
Forrest
Admin, Team3S
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 11:49:26
1999
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date:
Fri, 16 Apr 1999 13:46:53 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Cleaning Under The
Hood
Message-ID: <19990416.134655.-169879.14.SJC0U812@juno.com>
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Hello to all:
I have heard many things about being really careful
when cleaning the
engine, relative to the timing belt. The dealer wants
$35 to provide
this service. I inquired with one mechanic as to what
exactly they do
that is so unique for this fee. He indicated it was a
"special
chemical." Would anyone know what I could use to
clean under the hood,
without creating problems now or in the
future?
Thanks, and regards,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 12:29:41
1999
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To: Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VR-4 Drivetrain...
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Would it be possible to stick the VR-4 Engine and
Drivetrain into a
Mitsubishi Mini-van. The reason I ask is that a
friend of mine owned a
93 VR-4, he totalled it. The engine and
Drivetrain is intact, and the
insurance only wants $800 to keep the
car. His brother in law has 92'
Mitsu. Expo Minivan. I think its
AWD. Same engine as the SL or base.
He blew the engine and is
completely overjoyed at the concept of the
conversion, especially since the
new engine is $2k, and the salvage GT
is $800. What do you guys
think. Will it work? If anyone wants this
VR'4 lemme know.
The entire, and I mean entire extrerior is trashed.
Apparently he parked
under the edge of a roof and where construction was
taking place, and buch of
metal crap rolled off the roof onto the GT,
and destroyed almost every single
body panel, all the windows, and
ruined the back seat, and door
panels. Isn't funny all the weird ways
people wreck their
cars?
--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847
ext: 2961
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 16:45:34
1999
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 16:45:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR-4 Drivetrain...
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hello I am very interseted i n the car is the engine
and transfer case
and transsmission in tact? If so I will buy it immediatly.
Please get
back to me soon.
Thank you, Dustin
--- Andrew Brilliant wrote:
> Would it
be possible to stick the VR-4 Engine and
> Drivetrain into a
>
Mitsubishi Mini-van. The reason I ask is that a
> friend of mine
owned a
> 93 VR-4, he totalled it. The engine and Drivetrain
>
is intact, and the
> insurance only wants $800 to keep the car.
His
> brother in law has 92'
> Mitsu. Expo Minivan. I think
its AWD. Same engine
> as the SL or base.
> He blew the engine
and is completely overjoyed at
> the concept of the
> conversion,
especially since the new engine is $2k,
> and the salvage GT
> is
$800. What do you guys think. Will it work? If
> anyone
wants this
> VR'4 lemme know. The entire, and I mean entire
>
extrerior is trashed.
> Apparently he parked under the edge of a roof
and
> where construction was
> taking place, and buch of metal crap
rolled off the
> roof onto the GT,
> and destroyed almost every
single body panel, all
> the windows, and
> ruined the back
seat, and door panels. Isn't funny
> all the weird ways
>
people wreck their cars?
>
> --
> Andrew M. Brilliant
>
Webmaster
> IS Department
> Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
>
801-852-4961
> 1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
SORRY THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE A PRIVATE
POST.
--- dustin poos wrote:
> Hello I am very
interseted i n the car is the engine
> and transfer case
> and
transsmission in tact? If so I will buy it
> immediatly. Please
get
> back to me soon.
>
> Thank you, Dustin
>
>
> --- Andrew Brilliant wrote:
> > Would it be
possible to stick the VR-4 Engine and
> > Drivetrain into a
>
> Mitsubishi Mini-van. The reason I ask is that a
> > friend
of mine owned a
> > 93 VR-4, he totalled it. The engine
and
> Drivetrain
> > is intact, and the
> > insurance
only wants $800 to keep the car. His
> > brother in law has
92'
> > Mitsu. Expo Minivan. I think its AWD. Same
>
engine
> > as the SL or base.
> > He blew the engine and is
completely overjoyed at
> > the concept of the
> > conversion,
especially since the new engine is
> $2k,
> > and the salvage
GT
> > is $800. What do you guys think. Will it work?
> If
> > anyone wants this
> > VR'4 lemme know.
The entire, and I mean entire
> > extrerior is trashed.
> >
Apparently he parked under the edge of a roof and
> > where
construction was
> > taking place, and buch of metal crap rolled
off
> the
> > roof onto the GT,
> > and destroyed almost
every single body panel, all
> > the windows, and
> >
ruined the back seat, and door panels. Isn't
> funny
> >
all the weird ways
> > people wreck their cars?
> >
>
> --
> > Andrew M. Brilliant
> > Webmaster
> > IS
Department
> > Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
> >
801-852-4961
> > 1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
> >
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> > http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
SORRY THAT WAS SUPPOSED TO BE A PRIVATE
POST.
--- dustin poos wrote:
> Hello I am very
interseted i n the car is the engine
> and transfer case
> and
transsmission in tact? If so I will buy it
> immediatly. Please
get
> back to me soon.
>
> Thank you, Dustin
>
>
> --- Andrew Brilliant wrote:
> > Would it be
possible to stick the VR-4 Engine and
> > Drivetrain into a
>
> Mitsubishi Mini-van. The reason I ask is that a
> > friend
of mine owned a
> > 93 VR-4, he totalled it. The engine
and
> Drivetrain
> > is intact, and the
> > insurance
only wants $800 to keep the car. His
> > brother in law has
92'
> > Mitsu. Expo Minivan. I think its AWD. Same
>
engine
> > as the SL or base.
> > He blew the engine and is
completely overjoyed at
> > the concept of the
> > conversion,
especially since the new engine is
> $2k,
> > and the salvage
GT
> > is $800. What do you guys think. Will it work?
> If
> > anyone wants this
> > VR'4 lemme know.
The entire, and I mean entire
> > extrerior is trashed.
> >
Apparently he parked under the edge of a roof and
> > where
construction was
> > taking place, and buch of metal crap rolled
off
> the
> > roof onto the GT,
> > and destroyed almost
every single body panel, all
> > the windows, and
> >
ruined the back seat, and door panels. Isn't
> funny
> >
all the weird ways
> > people wreck their cars?
> >
>
> --
> > Andrew M. Brilliant
> > Webmaster
> > IS
Department
> > Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
> >
801-852-4961
> > 1-800-500-1847 ext: 2961
> >
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> > http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You
Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
> http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 17:31:10
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Successful Speeding [a refresher course ]
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999
17:30:08 -0700
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------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE882E.C5F20BC0
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After installing a performance mod and you start on
your
road test keep these points in mind.
Jim Berry
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 23:19:39
1999
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<001d01be889a$3cef2800$b9e786cd@BobForrest>
From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Cleaning Under The Hood
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 23:19:20
-0700
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I don't know specifics, but I'd heard that before about
"special" (non-H20)
engine cleaners being safe. I've also
heard a number of horror stories
about steam cleaning our engines--
seems that the steam gets into a number
of our sub-systems and trashes them
pretty thoroughly. If the delivery
system for your dealer's
"special chemical" is steam, DON'T do it.
Forrest
-----Original Message-----From: S J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
|I have heard many
things about being really careful when cleaning the
|engine, relative to the
timing belt. The dealer wants $35 to provide
|this service. I
inquired with one mechanic as to what exactly they do
|that is so unique for
this fee. He indicated it was a "special
|chemical."
Would anyone know what I could use to clean under the hood,
|without creating
problems now or in the future?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 23:21:07
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AVC-R learning
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 01:16:36 -0500
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Sunday I'm going to the dragstrip with the rest of
Minnesota 3/S. Tomorrow
I plan on installing the Super AVC-R.
I've re-read older posts and have no
doubt the install will go fine. I
guess there are two points that stand out
from previous posts - Don't quit
halfway, or it won't work, and don't mount
the solenoid on the
firewall.
My question has to do with the learning. I'm not
sure of the best way
fastest way to let the BC learn. It seems you do a
few runs in different
gears, is that it? What gears? I will want
to go slow and safe to begin
with. After that, is it advisable to
disconnect things to "erase" the
memory, and then let it learn
under higher boost conditions, or will the BC
adjust as I apply the
leadfoot??
Thanks for any help!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 23:30:46
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R learning
Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 23:31:01
-0700
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Set the boost to 1.0. Set the BADC to around
66-68. Go for a romp. These
should be full throttle runs revving
out as far as you can. You want to
build as much boost as possible and
hold it for as long as possible. Get
going in 1st gear and shift to 2nd
around 3500-4000 then throttle to the
floor through 2nd and 3rd. If the
controller doesn't learn the boost will
not stabilize. If the BADC is
too low you may not achieve your desired
boost. If that happens
increase the BADC by 4% or so and repeat. If you
overshoot then reduce
the BADC and repeat the runs. Keep doing this until
it learns.
Shouldn't take long. Once you get the hang of it you can
retrain it in
one run.
In the rare case that IDC exceeds 90% during learning
the AVC-R won't learn.
In this case reduce the boost a little bit and try
again.
Have fun.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
<snip>
>
> My question has to do with the
learning. I'm not sure of the best way
> fastest way to let the BC
learn. It seems you do a few runs in different
> gears, is that
it? What gears? I will want to go slow and safe to begin
>
with. After that, is it advisable to disconnect things to
"erase" the
> memory, and then let it learn under higher boost
conditions, or
> will the BC
> adjust as I apply the
leadfoot??
>
> Thanks for any help!
>
> Oskar
>
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Apr 16 23:43:03
1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team
3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS SBOV install on 2nd gen
Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 01:38:32
-0500
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Anyone have any pointers on how to best install the HKS
SBOV on a 2nd gen?
I bought it used and got no directions. I have a
K&N FIPK installed,
otherwise pretty much stock under the hood. I
have the hard pipe that comes
with the BOV, but if I use it won't it
interfere with my 6sp tranny?
Thanks all for the great help I've received, and
special thanks to Barry for
a very quick reply to my previous
post!
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 00:22:26
1999
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Date:
Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:21:59 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Re: Team3S: HKS SBOV install on 2nd gen
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> Anyone have any pointers on how to best install
the HKS SBOV on a 2nd gen?
I think it is the old one you are speaking about (the
same I have). If so then
the hard pipe is not compatible and you cannot mount
it (as you already found
out). One chance is that you cut the top part of the
pipe where the BOV sits on
and use a shorter rubber hose from the y-pipe to
connect them together. The BOV
will then sit closely to the battery (like the
most others). The other way would
be to find an exact flange that fits the
BOV but this is not that easy and leaks
may occur.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 02:25:22
1999
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Date:
Sat, 17 Apr 1999 19:27:18 +1000
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
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Subject:
Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
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Recently I had my car on a track on a club day &
after 20-30 fairly
heavy laps my brakes gave up & cooked the rotors, pads
& fluid.....very
expensive day.
I've machined the rotors &
replaced the pads with stock pads ( I had to
get the car back on the road
fairly quick so I didnt have time to work
out what to upgrade to ) & the
brakes are now fine.
My question is , can I just use high performance pads
& fluid with out
having to buy better rotors for "occasional"
track days? Has anybody had
experiences with using upgraded pads & fluids
on tracks with the
standard rotors? I realise brake fad will be an issue with
standard
rotors which doesnt worry me that much, I really just want to be
able to
go out on the track once in a while , have a bit of a blast , &
not have
to get the whole braking system overhauled when I'm
finished.
Thanks
Andrew
Australia. 94 VR4.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 02:39:27
1999
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 02:39:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
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--- Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
wrote:
> Recently I had my car on a track on a club day &
>
after 20-30 fairly
> heavy laps my brakes gave up & cooked the
rotors,
> pads & fluid.....very
> expensive day.
Wow! that's alot of laps! ... my stock set-up
over-heated after 4-5
hotlaps around a 2.5 mile course..
> My
question is , can I just use high performance
> pads & fluid with
out
> having to buy better rotors for "occasional" track
>
days? Has anybody had
> experiences with using upgraded pads & fluids
on
> tracks with the
> standard rotors?
I had pretty good luck with Motul Racing brake fluid
with Porterfield
Carbon Kevlar pads (with stock cross-drilled rotors and
stock
caliper).. both have very high temp tolerance and added alot
more
hotlaps around the course.. the carbon kevlar pads are
pretty
rotor-friendly.. I would also recommend a set of Goodridge
brake
lines..
George
'92 RT TT
LA,
CA
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 09:34:24
1999
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From:
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To:
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Subject:
Team3S: T bar metal clamps for Y-Pipe to throttle body connection
Date: Sat,
17 Apr 1999 10:37:21 -0600
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I was reading over some old posts. When you guys
talk about using a T =
bar metal clamp as a better clamp to use to hold the y
pipe onto the =
throttle body, is this a muffler clamp that you are talking
about? I =
could not find anyone that new what a T clamp was. A
muffler clamp by =
my definition is a U shaped rod threaded on both ends with
a curved flat =
bar with holes that slide on top of the U and then can be
bolted down to =
apply pressure. =20
I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at 15lbs of boost
and have heard =
you guys talk about better clamping methods than the ring
clamps that =
come factory (and really don't want to spend $$ on an new
Y-pipe).
Brent M.
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HTML//EN">
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
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4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I was
reading over some old =
posts. When you=20
guys talk about using
a T bar metal clamp as a better clamp to use to =
hold the y=20
pipe onto
the throttle body, is this a muffler clamp that you are
=
talking=20
about? I could not find anyone that new what a T
clamp was. =
A=20
muffler clamp by my definition is a U shaped
rod threaded on both ends =
with a=20
curved flat bar with holes that
slide on top of the U and then can be =
bolted=20
down to apply
pressure.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at =
15lbs
of=20
boost and have heard you guys talk about better clamping methods than
=
the ring=20
clamps that come factory (and really don't want to spend $$
on an new=20
Y-pipe).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
face=3DArial size=3D2>Brent
M.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 09:57:12
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connection
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> I was reading over some old posts. When you
guys talk about using a T bar
> metal clamp as a better clamp to use to
hold the y pipe onto the throttle
> body, is this a muffler clamp that you
are talking about?
No, it's not the known muffler clamp as this is called
U-clamp (at least in
Europe). A T-clamp can usually be found in Truck shops
(especially Turbo Trucks
like Iveco, Volvo, etc.) They use the T-clamps for
the intercoolers and often
for the water hoses too.
> I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at 15lbs of
boost and have heard you
> guys talk about better clamping methods than
the ring clamps that come
> factory (and really don't want to spend $$ on
an new Y-pipe).
Well, I never heard anyone popping the y-pipe off up to
15psi if the clamp was
tightened enough and not damaged. Mine only popped off
once at around 20psi but
this is another story.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 09:57:15
1999
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Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
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> My question is , can I just use high performance
pads & fluid with out
> having to buy better rotors for
"occasional" track days?
You should not mixing different pads (material) on a
rotor. If you want to go to
carbon metallic or kevlar then just have another
set ready on the track but
don't change them with the stock ones after a
race. This is due to the particles
of the pads that are getting pressed into
the the rotors surface under high
pressure and high
temperatures.
As George already said, change the fluid (I use Castrol
SRF and I'm very happy),
use some good pads (like carbon metallic or others)
and follow the right
procedure to season the rotors with the new pads and
padding in the pads.
Reaplacing the brake lines will finally complete
this.
Please note the stock rotors will be in danger to get
warped when using pads
with a higher temperature coefficient as the surface
temperature will rise. Also
you may not be warned by any fading then (depends
on the pads of course).
Happy braking,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 09:57:25
1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: T bar metal clamps for Y-Pipe to throttle body connection
Date:
Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:57:46 -0700
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T-bolt clamps are not muffler clamps although some high
end muffler clamps
may use T-bolts.
Hose clamps usually have a short threaded bolt which
consumes threads on the
band. Good T-bolt clamps have a long bolt and
are usually hinged where they
are attached to the band. The band may be
threaded but often there is a
nylock nut attached to the band on a
hinge.
The advantage to T-bolt clamps is that they disperse
the clamping force more
evenly around the band and can usually hold more
torque. Standard hose
clamps tend to pinch more in one place than
others.
Run of the mill shops don't seem to have a clue what
they are even though
they are used all over the place. They are used
extensively in aircraft and
race applications.
NAPA does have a limited selection in their catalogs
but you may have to
point them out to whomever is behind the counter. I
have also seen them on
various places on the WWW and the odd time on shelves
at run of the mill
auto parts shops. Also check out local reputable
race shops.
Barry
-----Original Message-----
I was reading over some old posts. When you guys
talk about using a T bar
metal clamp as a better clamp to use to hold the y
pipe onto the throttle
body, is this a muffler clamp that you are talking
about? I could not find
anyone that new what a T clamp was. A
muffler clamp by my definition is a U
shaped rod threaded on both ends with a
curved flat bar with holes that
slide on top of the U and then can be bolted
down to apply pressure.
I want my Y-pipe to stay on reliably at 15lbs of boost
and have heard you
guys talk about better clamping methods than the ring
clamps that come
factory (and really don't want to spend $$ on an new
Y-pipe).
Brent M.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 11:40:38
1999
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R learning
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Oskar wrote:
>
> My question has to do
with the learning. I'm not sure of the best way
> fastest way to let
the BC learn. It seems you do a few runs in different
> gears, is
that it? What gears? I will want to go slow and safe to
begin
> with. After that, is it advisable to disconnect things to
"erase" the
> memory, and then let it learn under higher boost
conditions, or will the BC
> adjust as I apply the leadfoot??
What the SAVC-R is learning is how fast boost comes on
and what it needs
to do to sustain your max boost pressure setting throughout
the RPM
range. I agree with Barry that a good initial setting is 1.00
bar @ 66%
BADC. First, get out on the road and drive so that you're
seeing 2000
RPMs in third gear. At this point, go WOT and hold it there
until boost
builds and stabilizes at 1.00 bar. Then shift to fourth or
fifth and
again go WOT from 2000 RPMs until you see a stable 1.00 bar.
After a
few runs like this, start paying attention to any overboost, which
you
will see early in the runs (2500-3500 RPM) and not after boost
has
stabilized. If it's overboosting more than you want, decrease the
BADC
setting and retrain from scratch.
For a car with stock U.S.-spec turbos and fuel system,
running the car
to redline makes little to no difference, IMO. Above 6k
RPM, the turbos
can't flow enough to sustain 1.00 bar and the IDC will exceed
90%,
defeating the SAVC-R learn process.
Note that my dyno sessions were with unlearned settings
of 1.00 bar @
72% BADC. In normal driving, these settings result in
short overboost
to 1.05 bar followed by a stable 1.00 bar to 6k RPM.
IMO, this is the
maximum safe setting for a stock engine on 93 octane pump
gas.
Good luck, and enjoy the new power you just
unleashed! :-)
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
I personally have never done this to my 3000, but my
friend does it to
his. He got some kind of pink cleaning acid and
sprayed it all over
everything in the engine compartment. Covered up
intake filter and was
careful around plug wires. He lets it sit for a
minute and then goes
crazy with the hose spraying everything off. I
personally cannot bare
the thought of spraying water all over everything that
is why I
personally havn't done it. But his car runs great (mid 12's
with stock
turbos) and has been doing it for almost 50,000
miles.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
Thanks Roger & George for the advice,
R.G. wrote:
> You should not mixing different pads (material) on
a rotor. If you want to go to
> carbon metallic or kevlar then just have
another set ready on the track but
> don't change them with the stock ones
after a race. This is due to the particles
> of the pads that are getting
pressed into the the rotors surface under high
> pressure and high
temperatures.
>
> As George already said, change the fluid (I use
Castrol SRF and I'm very happy),
> use some good pads (like carbon
metallic or others) and follow the right
> procedure to season the rotors
with the new pads and padding in the pads.
> Reaplacing the brake lines
will finally complete this.
>
> Please note the stock rotors will
be in danger to get warped when using pads
> with a higher temperature
coefficient as the surface temperature will rise. Also
> you may not be
warned by any fading then (depends on the pads of course).
So basically, I can't just use higher quality pads
& leave them in for
everyday use with the stock rotors as then the rotors
become the weak
link...yes? If I want to "improve" the brakes do I
really need to do the
rotors aswell to make the whole exercise worth
while?
Hello,
I just recently changed tires on my SL to
225/50ZR16 and I still
have a set of the factory recomended size 225/55VR16
that still have
the nipples on them. I have only used them for about 1200
miles. They
are Goodyear Eagle directionals, I hear they run about 800 a set.
If
anyone is interested please e-mail me privetly, I also have 3
factory
16 in. SL rims that I need to get rid of so make me an
offer.
Thanks,
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Del;
If you could research the product name and the specific
method of
application/employment, it might be of some interest to subscribers
who would otherwise
shy away from attempting this, for fear of causing
the problems noted by other
subscribers who responded with warnings against
attempting cleaning 3S engine
compartments.
Best
Darc
snip
> I personally have never done this to my 3000, but
my friend does it to
> his. He got some kind of pink cleaning acid
and sprayed it all .....
snip
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Apr 17 20:24:04
1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
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George Kuo wrote:
snip
> I had pretty good luck with Motul Racing brake
fluid with Porterfield
> Carbon Kevlar pads (with stock cross-drilled
rotors and stock
> caliper).. both have very high temp tolerance and added
alot more
> hotlaps around the course.. the carbon kevlar pads are
pretty
> rotor-friendly.. I would also recommend a set of Goodridge
brake
> lines..
Out of curiosity George, wht did it cost, and how well
did they mangae to cross drill
your stock rotors? Was it a decent job?
And, it sounds like they performed reasonably
well as an option to the full
race financial maiming aftermarket options...or am I
"trying" to
read to much into this :-)
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 02:49:48
1999
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 02:50:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
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> So basically, I can't just use higher quality pads
&
> leave them in for
> everyday use with the stock rotors as
then the
> rotors become the weak
> link...yes? If I want to
"improve" the brakes do I
> really need to do the
> rotors
aswell to make the whole exercise worth
> while?
Well... Porterfield claims that their race pad (carbon
kevlar) are
rotor-friendly and you can use it for daily driving.. and they
don't
need to be heated up 1st like other race pads..
As for me.. I have 2 sets.. a street pad for daily
driving.. and race
pads for the occasional road courses..
On a personal note.. I think I should have went
straight for the Brembo
big brake set-up.. I wasted a lot of small money
(that added to big
money!) on trying to upgrade the stock brake system.. Gota
love them
Brembos.. gave me alot more confidence in braking my 2 ton
monster..
George
Kuo
_________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 03:15:45
1999
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 03:16:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Basic brake upgrade
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> Out of curiosity George, wht did it cost, and
how
> well did they mangae to cross drill
> your stock rotors?
Was it a decent job? And, it
> sounds like they performed
reasonably
> well as an option to the full race financial maiming
>
aftermarket options...or am I
> "trying" to read to much into
this :-)
I am very satisfied with the Porterfield pre-treated
stock rotors..
cost me about $60each plus $50each for cross-drilling.
Their
workmanship is superb.. they look alot better than the
cross-drilled
rotors that came with my Brembo kit.. which cracked after 3-4
weekend
of racing.. the pads for stock caliper is $129/front set.. for
Brembo
caliper $159/front set.. if they don't know what size or part #
the
pads for our Brembo kit are.. just tell them u want pads for
the
Ferrari F40!! =)
I happen to have a pic of the rotors.. I'll email it
privately to you.
Anyone who wants to see it please email me..
Porterfield's #: 800 537 6842.. hope this # still
works.. haven't been
there or call for over a year..
George
Sunny S. Cal.. summer tires all year long~
=)
_________________________________________________________
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From: "Micheal A.
Whelan" <mwhelan@pdtech.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References:
<006601be87a0$b991a680$a4f086cd@BobForrest>
Subject: Team3S: Question
on interchangability of parts
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 07:59:55
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Will a 1993 Stealth hood fit a 1991 Stealth?
Where is the cut off year for
body panels? Mike
> So basically, I can't just use higher quality pads
& leave them in for
> everyday use with the stock rotors as then the
rotors become the weak
> link...yes?
You can, but one link is always the weakest.
> If I want to "improve" the brakes do I
really need to do the
> rotors aswell to make the whole exercise worth
while?
Good rotors will complete the upgrade while upgrading
the calipers will finally
make it perfect.
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 07:02:24
1999
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Subject:
Team3S: Oil leak at oil cooler
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Hi,
I have a
94 VR4 and have what appears to be a leak from the lower
line of my oil
cooler. Any tips or tricks on
accessing/replacing/tightening these
lines? Any idea of cost and are
these dealer only items?
Thanks!
Randy
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 07:31:44
1999
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Date:
Sun, 18 Apr 1999 10:31:30 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cleaning Under The
Hood
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Well, Auto Magic makes a pink colored degreaser
that I'd highly
recomend, it's just rather difficult to come by- if I
remember correctly,
they only sell from authorized dealers, and the one in
Akron, Ohio (where I
used to live and work as a detailer) came to the
dealership once a month, and
was a private seller of the products- kinda
like your local Snap On guy.
But if you can come up with a bottle of the
stuff, it's great! Spray
on, let sit for a few seconds, scrub some
with a plastic bristle brush, and
spray off with water. Hit the
compartment with some compressed air (always,
ALWAYS do this- belts
deteriorate by prolonged contact with water- and the
service manuals has
warnings up and down about the timing belt and
corrosion!), and viola- nice
clean engine confines! If you're really
adventurous, follow it up with
some of their water based tire dressing- sure
as hell works better on
plastic engine compartments, than it does on tires
themselves (if you didn't
follow that, it's a recommendating NOT to use their
shine on tires- very
runny, and comes off quite quickly). Their ACID (not
the degreaser),
per se, is some pretty hazardous stuff- wheel use only, and
make sure you're
wearing some gloves and that you water it off fast.
And Auto Magic makes some decent compounds for
scratch removal and
such too- Damn, makes me want to hunt the local
reseller right now!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 09:21:29
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil leak at oil cooler
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Randy MacAulay wrote:
> 94 VR4: leak from lower line of oil
cooler. Any tips on
> accessing/replacing/tightening these
lines?
Randy: The oil lines on my 93 started leaking,
and it turned out that the (steel) lines
had rusted through in spots!
I
ended up taking oil cooler out, cutting off the stock fittings and lines up to
good
metal, then having some
AN fittings welded onto the pipes; then I
used AN fittings and braided line to connect
back up to the rest of
the
stock oil system. This came from years of winter/salty driving,
unfortunately...this
seems a common problem
(or at least mentioned before,
so likely an issue) so winter-state people would do well
to check those lines
once
a year or whatever, and note any oil drippage from front driverside
corner of
car/wheelwell. Mine dripped awhile,
and was in no
danger of catastrophic failure because there was alot of good metal
left,
just some pinholes. There should
be plenty of warning for the
aware...
Jack Tertadian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 09:25:15
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From:
"Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Question on interchangability of parts
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999
12:13:51 -0400
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>Will a 1993 Stealth hood fit a 1991 Stealth?
Where is the cut off year for
>body panels? Mike
A 1991 will fit a 1993 Stealth, so the reverse
should be so, as well.
However, if you are replacing more than just the hood
itself, as in the
front clip or structural members, the base or R/T NA models
are NOT
interchangeable with the twin turbo models. The hood itself should be
fine,
but if you need to replace subframe parts, you have to use parts from a
twin
turbo car if yours is a twin turbo as well.
Robyn
Any 3/S members in Philadelphia? I'm going up for a
few days on vacation in
a few weeks, not taking the Stealth though, not in a
big city! Please e-mail
me privately - let me know where the best places for
a margarita are!
Greetings
folks,
Has anybody been able to
successfully install steel-braided
brake
lines without rounding off
the flared brake-line nuts that connect
the
two rubber brake lines to the
metal brake line that goes around
the
strut tower?
The torque
spec. on these nuts is 11ft.lbs but they have been
torqued
way more than that, and
there doesn't seem to be any way to remove
the
rubber brake lines without
rounding off these flared nuts.
Is it normal
practice to just use a vice-grip on these nuts
and
replace the metal brake tubes
(the ones that have the flared nuts
on
either side of the tube) when
changing the brake lines?
Thanks!
-sankar
--
*******************************************************************************
Come
close to me Klingon, let me die with my hands at your throat.
There is a
substance within my cells which you need to survive.
Then you've come to make
me beg for my life?
No.
I would rather die than pollute my body with
Klingon filth.
-- Patahk and Worf, "The Enemy",
stardate
43349.2
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 14:06:02
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Line Installation and Brake Tube flared
nuts
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> Is
it normal practice to just use a vice-grip on these nuts
and
> replace the metal
brake tubes (the ones that have the flared nuts
on
> either side of the
tube) when changing the brake lines?
No, the main answer is : use the right tools !! I have
not been able to open
them and almost striped them until I got the slotted 10
ring (dunno the right
name). With this, hold the flared nut and turn the nut
on the line. This will
loosen the stuff. Oh, also soak the stuff with WD-40
(best overnight) as the
thing is not torqued over specs but corroded. Also
remove the spring clamp at
first.
Hope this helps, good luck !
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 14:45:01
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From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
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Re: Team3S: Oil leak at oil cooler
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Yes, they are dealer only items, unless you do as Jack
did (next message).
The reason they are dealer only is because the fittings
on the ends are
banjo bolts, and there are quite a few bends. I replaced all
3 lines for
about 150. It isn't too hard of a job. You need to take off the
plastic
cover to get to the oil cooler. There are 3 bolts holding the cooler
on. A
wobble extension goes a long way for this job. The banjo bolts are
pretty
tight. Be careful how you hold the cooler while removing
them.
hope this helps
ps. a little drip can turn into a monsoon at the least
expected time. fix it
now.
Randy MacAulay wrote:
>
accessing/replacing/tightening these lines? Any idea of cost and
are
> these dealer only items?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 16:16:16
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Date:
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OrangeFell@aol.com wrote:
>
> Well, Auto Magic makes
a pink colored degreaser that I'd highly
> recomend, it's just rather
difficult to come by- if I remember correctly,
> they only sell from
authorized dealers, and the one in Akron, Ohio (where I
> used to live and
work as a detailer) came to the dealership once a month, and
> was a
private seller of the products- kinda like your local Snap On guy.
>
> But if you can come up
with a bottle of the stuff, it's great! Spray
> on, let sit for a
few seconds, scrub some with a plastic bristle brush, and
> spray off with
water. Hit the compartment with some compressed air (always,
>
ALWAYS do this- belts deteriorate by prolonged contact with water- and
the
> service manuals has warnings up and down about the timing belt
and
> corrosion!), and viola- nice clean engine confines! If you're
really
> adventurous, follow it up with some of their water based tire
dressing- sure
> as hell works better on plastic engine compartments, than
it does on tires
> themselves (if you didn't follow that, it's a
recommendating NOT to use their
> shine on tires- very runny, and comes
off quite quickly). Their ACID (not
> the degreaser), per se, is
some pretty hazardous stuff- wheel use only, and
> make sure you're
wearing some gloves and that you water it off fast.
>
> And Auto Magic makes
some decent compounds for scratch removal and
> such too- Damn,
makes me want to hunt the local reseller right now!
>
> Kenneth
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 19:00:17
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From:
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To:
"3SI Mail List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Stock boost levels on a '93 TT
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:01:48
-0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Well,
I just finished installing
my SPI boost gauge and took the car out for a
run. On third gear WOT
runs starting from 60kph to 160kph, the boost would
max out at 10psi until
about 5000rpms where it would start to drop. At
6500rpms the boost had
dropped to 7.5psi. Just wondering if the 10psi was
normal for a stock
(except for FIPK) '93 TT. I seemed to remember that
stock boost for the
1st gens was around 8.5psi.
Kind of disappointed as 10psi to
15psi (when I install the boost
controller) won't feel as good as the 8.5psi
to 15psi I was expecting.
Brent M.
P.S. I looked into the mod that was posted on
rewiring the ETACS to work
with a turbo timer. From what I could see in
the service manual, this mod
should work. I am going to do it sometime
in the next couple of weeks. I
am also looking into a similar mod for
the light automatic shut off unit so
the lights will shut off automatically
with the car on turbo timer and the
driver's door is opened. Let me
know if anyone is interested, or if this
has been done before, in which case
I won't waste my time going through the
wiring schematics.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 19:46:03
1999
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock boost levels on a '93 TT
Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:44:56
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
> I just finished installing my
SPI boost gauge and took the car out for
a
>run. On third gear
WOT runs starting from 60kph to 160kph, the boost would
>max out at 10psi
until about 5000rpms where it would start to drop. At
>6500rpms the
boost had dropped to 7.5psi. Just wondering if the 10psi was
>normal
for a stock (except for FIPK) '93 TT. I seemed to remember
that
>stock boost for the 1st gens was around 8.5psi.
my 93 showed about 9 before the boost controller
!!!
> Kind of disappointed as
10psi to 15psi (when I install the boost
>controller) won't feel as good
as the 8.5psi to 15psi I was expecting.
>
I was more than impressed with the effect of 6
additional pounds ---
it's addictive though --- another 10 would sure be
nice. I picked up
about a second in 0 - 60 times. BTY did you regap your
plugs??
the big kids say that misfire is a problem with stock
gap.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 20:00:18
1999
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Message-ID: <95ebeeaa.244bf637@aol.com>
Date:
Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:00:07 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cleaning Under The
Hood
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Right on William! That's the ticket!
Apologies for the mass
cheering out of my apartment wasting bandwith, but
this is the stuff I was
speaking of- I recommend just about anything out of
their lineup, cept, well,
the tire dressing... ;)
Motor Degreaser #5 is some powerful stuff for
under the hood and
round the wheel areas- door jambs are another great spot
to hit up with this
stuff. Just don't let it run onto the exterior
paint, or else get it off,
FAST. It hazes in a few minutes, and takes
a good bit of effort to clean off
clear coated areas of a car- namely,
everything facing outside. But although
dangerous, a favorite trick
when muddy cars would be brought in would be to
spray the 1/3 lower portion
of the car with this product, and spray off
immediately as part of the
prerinse- cuts mud like a knife. Same with the
grime in the engine
compartment.
Two other items to peruse are compounds BC-1 and
BC-2. BC-1 is a
heavier buffer compound- use this if your car has
really been sitting out in
the acid rain. But use it by hand, cause
even using it with an orbital, as
recommended, can leave a lot of swirl
marks. The even better part of the
combo, however, is
BC-2 (Black car owners take note- this stuff is wonderful
for all
those light catching marks!) . Light and medium scale scratches are
well covered and cared for with this compound. This, like it's heavier
cousin, is hand pad application only- the pink stuff puts the detail in
DETAIL. When it really counts, as it does with our cars, use it with
cotton
cloths- less swirling on the removal of the hazed compound.
Anyways, sorry to turn this into an upaid ad- all
I can say is that
I've used this on a few million worth of hardware-
'Vettes, Beamers,
Mustangs, Porches, a Ferrari, and I'll use it on mine,
just as soon as I can
get my hands on some...
Actually, any Massachusetts listees interested in
a order?... ;)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 20:53:47
1999
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock boost levels on a '93 TT
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Brent;
Barry King posted on 03: 23: 99 that 93 and earlier had
a max boost level of 9.5 (10
seems close) with anything from 6.5 and up to
that level considered normal (within
specs) as per the manual. 94 and up were
considered normal at 12.5 BTW the archives
are great for this
type of information. I haven't seen anything on the turbo timer
mod
you're referring to, so keep us posted on how (it works) (you performed
it).
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Apr 18 21:37:54
1999
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Date:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR-4 Drivetrain...
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The engine in the Expo is a 2.4 liter inline four. The
AWD system is
out of the Eclipse. My wife has the same car/van. There isn't
enough
room for the V6 in the engine bay without some major modification.
I
have doubts anything will match.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Well, I ended up racing at a local 1/8 mile
track Friday night. Unfortunately there
aren't any 1/4 mile tracks
within 60 miles or so. I did about what I expected, although
I'm pretty
sure I can do better and possibly meet my goal of 8.0 seconds. I had a
couple
bad runs, missed shifts and such that were 8.7 or 8.8, a couple 8.50s
or thereabouts, 2
8.3s and an 8.22. The 8.22 run came towards the end,
and was the only run that I didn't
speed shift. I notice early on that
I wasn't making the boost I thought I should. When I
did have a chance
to look it was only .6 or .7 atmosphere, and it felt like a slug. I
had
been speed shifting all night, running right up to the rev limiter, just
before it kicked
in. When I'd get it in the next gear it felt slow and
wasn't building much boost. I was
running race gas (almost ran outta
gas on the way there) and had the AVC-R set to 1.0
atmosphere. I'm
thinking that because I wasn't lifting off the throttle, it would hit
the
limitter for a split second, I couldn't feel it, and then cause a problem
when I was back
in gear. What exactly does the limiter do in our
car? Thanks to a moving floor mat, I've
found the limiter several
times. Recently, I was bouncing off the limiter for maybe 2
seconds and
my engine died. I had a hard time restarting it, and the only thing that I
can
think of is that when the limiter hits it cuts the spark which caused me
to flood.
Wouldn't it be dangerous to cut fuel at WOT, and without fuel, why
would the car backfire
and not want to start afterwards? I'm basically
wondering how the limiter works, hoping
that this would explain why flat
shifting at high RPMs had such a bad affect. I know it's
not good on
the synchros, that's why I only speed shift on the track. I'm thinking if
I
speed shift at a slightly lower RPM that it might have a better
outcome. The car felt so
much stronger when I lifted off the throttle
on my 8.22 run.
On a side note, my trap speeds were around 80mph, and
looking at other 3000gt times this
should be good for about a 12.75 or so,
and all I've done is the Weapon-R air filter,
gutted cats on factory exhaust
and the AVC-R set to 1.0 atmosphere.
I raced at Colonial Beach in
Va. Seems like the track is good, but my overall experience
was
bad. It was $15 bucks to race and $5 apeice for the 2 passengers in my
car. I only
got trap speeds on about 2 of my runs, and never got a
timeslip. It really sucked to have
to give my passengers pens and paper
to jot down my times so I knew what I did, along with
the fact that I passed
the sign displaying my time at the finish line. It was kinda funny,
the
announcer was clueless as to what kind of car it was, and it was amazing the
attention
I got running that fast. Everyone asking me what work I've
done to it. I only remember
one 5.0 that was faster, it came in on a
trailor and ran a 6 something. In fact, I can't
recall a faster street
car there that night, although 1/2 the cars there were trailored
in.
beatin up on the Stangs,
Jason
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 00:00:54
1999
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stock boost levels, turbo timer
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Brent & Tara Maksymiw wrote:
>
> Kind of disappointed as 10psi to 15psi (when I
install the boost
> controller) won't feel as good as the 8.5psi to 15psi
I was expecting.
10psi sounds about right for a stock 1st gen, would be
only slightly
higher for a 2nd gen. You will notice a big difference
when you install
the controller, as boost is achieved sooner and held
longer. You will
see 1.00 bar before 3000 RPM and through 6000
RPM!
> P.S. I looked into the mod that was
posted on rewiring the ETACS to work
> with a turbo timer. From what
I could see in the service manual, this mod
> should work. I am
going to do it sometime in the next couple of weeks. I
> am also
looking into a similar mod for the light automatic shut off unit so
> the
lights will shut off automatically with the car on turbo timer and the
>
driver's door is opened. Let me know if anyone is interested, or if
this
> has been done before, in which case I won't waste my time going
through the
> wiring schematics.
I had Extreme Motorsports in MD install my A'PEXi turbo
timer. After
the first attempt, I could activate the alarm with the
engine still
running (as long as the E-brake was engaged) but the
auto-headlight
shutoff no longer worked. After my wife ran down the
battery because of
this (lights stayed on and of course no chime reminder!),
I took it back
and they rewired something (at my expense) behind the panel
next to the
left rear seat (where the remote control controller is located)
to get
it working again. So now it works like stock - with the turbo
timer
running the engine or after it has shut it off, opening the door
with
the lights on will kill the lights, and locking the door will enable
the
alarm. Contact Extreme Motorsports for specifics! Good
luck...
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
Track report: Raceway Park, Topeka, Kansas, Porsche
Club open
track/driver's school event
Very long post on road racing.
It rained and snowed the night before, so the area off
the track was a
soggy mess. Too much water on the track made the organizers
bypass a bunch
of turns, converting it into a 2.2 mile layout. The course
began with a
short front straight to a brake-killing 2nd gear 30 mph tight
right (turn
1) and a quick left to a long sweeping 3rd gear left (the
Carousel) to a
very fast 3rd gear right (turn 4) to another very fast
3rd gear left (turn
5) to a left-right kink (8&9) to the back straight to
a slow 3rd gear left,
then a series of rights and lefts ending with a tight
left (16) onto the
straight. I hit 100 mph just prior to 5, 6 and 8 and about
110 prior to 1.
(If you know the track, they used the long, brake-killer
course, but went
straight after 4 and took out 5, 6 and 7).
On Saturday, it was about 35 degrees, windy and damp at
8:00 am. Perfect
weather for a VR4.
I went out in run group 2, and
proceeded to pass cars like they were
standing still (actually, they were
trying very hard to deal with the damp
in their RWD cars with racing slicks).
My run group had two vipers, a new
C5 corvette, 6 911s, 6 944 turbos, two
M3s, a 914, a race-prepared 924S, a
Contour SVT, and a gaggle of others -
about 24 in all.
The VR4 with the AWD was miraculous in the damp, and I
absolutely inhaled
the lesser cars. Alas, at the very end of the session, I
came down the
front straight at 110, got on the brakes - and BANG! I broke
another
PowerSlot slotted rotor. Just like last year, I broke that sucker in
two.
Fortunately, there is a big runoff area, so I could coast to a
stop
(interesting - the ABS chirps and rattles and makes all the appropriate
ABS
noises, but it doesn't use any of the other 3 brakes to stop the car.
I
think we should discuss the wisdom of disconnecting the ABS on the 3S
list.)
Fortunately, I carry spare stock rotors, so I put one
on in time for the
next run.
I've learned to ration my brakes - that is, I use them
hard only when
necessary, otherwise I stab them and get off quick. Same with
2nd gear - I
use it only for turn 1-2, and for launching out of 16, unless I
am
overtaking a car. Then, I'll use it to close up on the car quickly, so
he
can see me coming. Otherwise, I cruise around in 3rd gear. I try to
limit
my top end speed, because it just takes that much more braking to stop
it.
I probably coulda got it up to about 120 on the front straight with a
good
launch at 16 and running it up to 7,000 rpm in 3rd. But then I would
have
had to brake from that speed, and bring it down to 30 mph for turn 1.
Even
with rationing, though, my brakes are always gone by the end of a
20-minute
session.
Even when cruising in 3rd, the VR4 overtakes just about
everything out
there. It is particularly strong when accelerating out of
corners, because
you can get on the power much earlier, and be on full
throttle while
everyone else is still waiting to straighten up before they
can apply full
power in their vettes, vipers, and 911 turbos. This drive out
of the
corners is where we make up all the time we lose because of poor
braking.
Overtaking usually requires just eating up a slower
car, and waiting for
the hand signal to pass. The VR4 was particularly quick
through the last
series of left-rights leading to the front straight, and I
could make up
50-100 yards on almost any car through that series. If I
emerged onto the
straight 6 ft behind most cars, they just moved over and
waved me by.
Once, I gobbled up the new C5 Corvette this way, but
instead of moving over
he just whomped on it and pulled away from me like I
was standing still,
gaining about 10 car lengths down the front straight.
Damn that car was
fast! I hauled him in again, and was all over his butt by
turn 5. This
time, when coming out of 16 onto the straight, he let me by. I
found out
later that he had added some goodies to the C5, and it dynoed at
365 hp.
By the end of the third run, I had passed nearly
everybody in my run group
except for one Viper and a few miscellaneous
others. No one passed me.
Once, I started first in the group, and came around
to lap six cars.
I also ate up a set of Performance Friction carbon
metallic pads by the
third run, thus requiring a complete change of the
fronts. I installed a
set of spare pads (from last year's event!) but decided
there were only two
sessions left in those pads, so I'd save them for Sunday.
So, after only
three runs, I was done on Saturday.
Saturday was marred by two nasty shunts. One, a 911
Carerra in Group 4,
went off sideways and scraped off its left side. They
brought that one in
on a trailer and took the driver to the hospital with a
concussion. The
other was an M3 in my run group, who went head on into a
cement wall,
demolishing the entire front end. His air bag went off, and he
walked away
from it.
Sunday dawned bright and warmer. I asked for an
instructor to ride along so
he could check my braking techniques and see if I
was doing anything wrong.
He cleaned up some of my lines, taught me a
few things about braking, and
corrected my tendency for rapid brake-throttle
transitions. I always
thought you had to be either hard on the brakes or hard
on the gas (from my
rallye days, where the driving is more violent), but he
said it was OK to
take a little time between actions: Lift before a corner,
then smoothly
stab the brakes firmly ONCE (don't pump or ease down slowly),
and then get
back on the gas smoothly. With his help, I started lapping
faster, which
means I started using more brakes, and then the brakes started
going away
again, becoming spongy and basically ineffective. I got
passed by the
race-prepared 924 S (damn! the only pass all weekend! I
consoled myself
that it was a Group 4 driver running in our group 2 <so
two guys could
drive the same car>, and I had no brakes, and I had passed
him before).
Since my brakes came back to life 20 minutes later
after they cooled in the
pits, I concluded that I had boiled the brake fluid.
It's Racing Blue, BTW.
My daughter took her first lesson in her Contour, which
performed admirably
(albeit slow) the entire weekend. On Sunday, a wear
indicator started
sounding on her left rear, so we pulled the wheel to
discover it had worn
down the inside rear pad (!!). We concluded that she
could get one more
session out of it, so she ran one more time. Then we both
drove home on our
get-home pads. If there are any old fart dads like me out
there, a Porsche
club driver's school is a wonderful father-son or
father-daughter weekend.
Here's what I learned this weekend:
The VR4 is an incredible car! Even on street Michelins,
it corners with
almost everybody (except a certain 924 S - once he got ahead
of me, he just
pulled away because of better cornering). With racing slicks,
I think I
could have stayed with him. Other suspension improvements may help,
too,
but it is basically a very good car for open track driving.
It's
competitive right out of the box, and very forgiving. You can get away
with
stuff that will put a 911 into the weeds, such as lifting in a turn.
When driven hard, it pushes. This was a left-hand
course, so I ate up my
right front tire. I didn't notice the push last year,
because I wasn't
driving it fast enough. Perhaps correcting push would be
another good 3S
topic.
When driven harder, it eats brakes faster. It's a
heavy, fast car, and the
brakes are not up to the task. We gotta work on
this!
The VR4's AWD provides a tremendous advantage. When you
learn to use its
drive out of the corners properly, it eats up the car ahead.
This requires
a somewhat different driving style, because you must look for
opportunities
where this works to your advantage, and then arrange entry and
exit points
accordingly. Our line is slightly different from virtually every
car out
there. Mostly, it just requires moving the apex back a few
yards so we can
get on the power earlier. It doesn't work on every corner
(like the
constant radius Carousel), but when it does work, it's awesome.
Stock, it is just slightly underpowered, so C5s and
Vipers and new 911s can
take it on a straight. I'm going to install a bleeder
valve next, which
should give me about 40 more hp. I hope this will be enough
to handle most
non-race-prepared cars. Of course, whenever they bump me up
into Group 3,
this situation will change. The drivers are more experienced
and the cars
are faster and better prepared.
My overheating problems have gone away. Last year it
overheated badly, but
this year it ran at a normal temperature all weekend. I
attribute this to
the water pump I replaced two weeks ago. Apparently,
the pump was starting
to go south last year.
My new brake cooling air ducts seem to work. Although I
lost the brakes
every session, I didn't come off the track a single time with
smoking
brakes like I did last year. And I could work on the brakes
almost
immediately - last year, I had to wait 15 minutes before going near
them
because they were so hot. So the ducts ARE cooling them down, just
not
enough.
Braking problems will be the subject of my next post -
"Adventures in
Braking" I have a coupla ideas to bounce off the
tech wizards. I'm getting
dang sick and tired of working in "Old Poop's
Brake Shop" for the entire
weekend.
I learned something about myself, too. When I get a car
in my sights, I
forget all about brake rationing and 3rd gear cruising.
I get the red haze
and the blood lust just like everybody else, and all my
good intentions go
astray. Still, I can't bring myself to put the car out to
the hairy edge,
especially in the really fast stuff. At turn 5, for
example, I come up on
it at 100 mph, stab the brakes, downshift to 3rd, and
power on through at
85. Every time, I said to myself, "don't lift! Take
it in 4th!," but I
always lifted. Probably has something to do
with wanting to drive it home
afterward, I guess. Gotta work on improving my
pucker factor.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 04:03:29
1999
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From:
Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
To:
"Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Twin pipe gasket
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 07:08:19
-0400
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I just changed my plugs (not too bad a job) and found
the seal between the inlet "twin" pipe and the throttle body was
destroyed. Apparently a mechanic along the way forced it on without
watching what he was doing and cut the gasket which left about half of it inside
the pipe, blocking my intake. No wonder performance was poor!
Anyway, I've seen other postings about replacing the gasket. Are they
available? Are there substitutes if not?
Pete Ryner
91
VR4
Pete Ryner wrote:
> seal between inlet "twin" pipe
[Air Hose "A"] and throttle body was destroyed. left half
inside pipe, blocking intake. No wonder performance was poor!
about replacing the gasket-- Are they available? Are there substitutes if
not?
> Pete Ryner 91 VR4
The seals are not available; if you can't reinsert the
rubber onto the pipe and repair with Super Glue (worked for me) you have to
change the pipe. Can get stock pipe, or get metal version that should hold
better on high boost from Alamo (black crinkle fininsh steel) or ?ATR.
Jack
Tertadian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 07:04:49
1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: "pro" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: gasket remover?
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:04:12 -0500
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Could any suggest, if there exists such a thing,
something that would remove
old gaskets? Specifically the water pump gasket.
It looks like a paper/fibre
type gasket, could be rubber, and has been
sitting on there for the past 7
years. I'd really like to get it all off and
not have to resort to scraping.
Maybe a good soak with wd40 will do the
trick?
Omar
92 r/t
PS My engine cleanup is coming along nicely. Almost
everything is out except
for the motor, transmission, power steering, A/C and
brake stuff. Almost all
tubes, hoses, wires and such have been removed for
cleaning, as well as the
throttle body, plenum, intake manifold, injectors,
etc. What color would
look good on the plenum? I was thinking yellow, as the
rest of the accents
on my car are yellow, and i'll put yellow vacuum tubes
and such in. How
about the valve cover? black with yellow letters? Ideas are
welcome for
consideration.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 10:08:26
1999
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From: Gavin
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Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake upgrade
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are you saying you cracked the brembos from the big
brembo upgrade
kit? That would stink considering i was giving a lot of
consideration to
those brakes...
Anybody out there have the $2000 brembo kit?
Experencies?
Thanks,
Gavin
> Out of curiosity George, wht did it cost, and
how
> well did they mangae to cross drill
> your stock rotors?
Was it a decent job? And, it
> sounds like they performed
reasonably
> well as an option to the full race financial maiming
>
aftermarket options...or am I
> "trying" to read to much into
this :-)
I am very satisfied with the Porterfield pre-treated
stock rotors..
cost me about $60each plus $50each for cross-drilling.
Their
workmanship is superb.. they look alot better than the
cross-drilled
rotors that came with my Brembo kit.. which cracked after 3-4
weekend
of racing.. the pads for stock caliper is $129/front set.. for
Brembo
caliper $159/front set.. if they don't know what size or part #
the
pads for our Brembo kit are.. just tell them u want pads for
the
Ferrari F40!! =)
I happen to have a pic of the rotors.. I'll email it
privately to you.
Anyone who wants to see it please email me..
Porterfield's #: 800 537 6842.. hope this # still
works.. haven't been
there or call for over a year..
George
Sunny S. Cal.. summer tires all year long~
=)
_________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 11:06:43
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From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake upgrade
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--- Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com> wrote:
> are you
saying you cracked the brembos from the big
> brembo upgrade
> kit?
That would stink considering i was giving a lot
> of consideration
to
> those brakes...
>
> Anybody out there have the $2000
brembo kit?
> Experencies?
>
> Thanks,
> Gavin
>
Yes, I was very disappointed too.. I paid alot of money
for those
brakes and would think it would last longer. I went and
complained to
the Stillen/Brembo division here in Costa Mesa. They told
me 'this is
not unusual, cross-drill rotors do crack.. race cars go through
rotors
everyday.. and you had 4 weekends out of them'...
=(
George
'92 RT TT
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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Hi Rich,
Great report. That is incredible that two
PowerSlot rotors cracked at
two different times, each on their first day of a
track event. I guess
they can be ruled out for extreme performance
conditions. Try the KVR
or Porterfield rotors next and give us a
report. Maybe you'll also want
to talk to Brad Bedall about his brake
kit that replaces the stock
calipers with OE Porsche (Brembo) and the stock
rotors with KVR.
This information is extremely valuable since I know
many folks will
upgrade their brakes in the future. I'm sorry it is so
costly for you
though.
Thanks,
Ken (eagerly awaiting the next report on
different rotors)
--
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 12:28:11
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From: Gavin
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake
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That is f-ing obnoxious. How hard to race them? And how
did they work
before they cracked?
IS THERE NO REAL BRAKE UPGRADE FOR US...:(
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com> 04/19/99 02:09pm
>>>
Yes, I was very disappointed too.. I paid alot of money for
those
brakes and would think it would last longer. I went and
complained to
the Stillen/Brembo division here in Costa Mesa. They told
me 'this is
not unusual, cross-drill rotors do crack.. race cars go through
rotors
everyday.. and you had 4 weekends out of them'...
=(
George
'92 RT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 12:43:37
1999
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake upgrade -Reply
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Hey now.. don't get me wrong.. the Brembo caliper is
AWESOME.. I didn't
get the brake kit for the rotors, but for them massive
calipers..
Stillen wanted too much for replacement rotors.. so I figured if
they
were gona crack anyways.. why not go to cheaper rotors.. but
the
Porterfield pre-treated stocker are great..
George
--- Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com> wrote:
> That is
f-ing obnoxious. How hard to race them? And
> how did they work
>
before they cracked?
>
> IS THERE NO REAL BRAKE UPGRADE FOR
US...:(
>
> Gavin
> '94 Black VR-4
>
>
>>> George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com> 04/19/99
>
02:09pm >>>
> Yes, I was very disappointed too.. I paid alot
of
> money for those
> brakes and would think it would last
longer. I went
> and complained to
> the Stillen/Brembo
division here in Costa Mesa.
> They told me 'this is
> not unusual,
cross-drill rotors do crack.. race cars
> go through rotors
>
everyday.. and you had 4 weekends out of them'...
> =(
>
> George
> '92 RT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 12:56:39
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake upgrade
-Reply
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How what is the performance like over stock? And what
do you mean
by "Porterfield pre-treated stocker". Is this a
"stock" rotor with some type
of treatment? Also does the brembo kit
increase the rotor size? This kit is
seemingly not very
impressive...
Thanks,
Gavin
>>> George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com> 04/19/99 03:44pm
>>>
Hey now.. don't get me wrong.. the Brembo caliper is AWESOME.. I
didn't
get the brake kit for the rotors, but for them massive
calipers..
Stillen wanted too much for replacement rotors.. so I figured if
they
were gona crack anyways.. why not go to cheaper rotors.. but
the
Porterfield pre-treated stocker are great..
George
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 13:11:16
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Gavin,
> That is f-ing obnoxious. How hard to race them?
And how did they work
> before they cracked?
> IS THERE NO REAL
BRAKE UPGRADE FOR US...:(
Calm down, there is no need to yell at us.
These brakes are using the big Brembo calipers with
Porsche mods. Also the rotor
is from Porsche, but not for all applications.
As far as I know they are made by
the same company as the Bremsas then and
also use then the same blue anodized
Erdal hub. I think the ones for our cars
will be like that.
Spend mucho money and you have your brake system
:)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 13:11:31
1999
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Subject: Team3S: Busy Weekend
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Hey all:
As I mentioned in my previous post, this weekend began
the reclaiming of
the car back to "normal" from old man
winter. Besides the cleaning of
the "snake eye" lenses, I
also did Wayne's fog light mod (thanks much
Wayne!) and I tapped into the
extra accessory plug wires and ran the wire
for the radar detector in the
dash, allowing me to actually reach the
radio controls. I also
reattached a tailpipe that was thinking of
falling off (one side of the
u-shaped arms where the screws go in had
broken off) by using a stainless
steel screw through the drip hole. I
drilled directly up the middle of
the pipe. This was amongst waxing,
cleaning, etc. It almost looks
normal again. And I cleaned the backside
of the "snake
eye" lenses, which made a huge difference.
You may remember myself and another having our SRS
lights come on
recently also. Well, my anti-lock light just came on
too. I've got to
believe that this is related to simply running a
diagnostic's on the car
at a preset mileage as it's never run better.
Anyone? Seems way to
coincidental to me.
Best,
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 13:11:55
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Thanks for the nice track story :)
> front straight at 110, got on the brakes - and
BANG! I broke another
> PowerSlot slotted rotor. Just like last year, I
broke that sucker in two.
Unfortunately, this proves what frinds from the
Camaro/Firebird lists
experienced. PowerSlots work good but over a specific
temperature they will go
:(( If you have them on your car just be aware not
to overheat them. Did you
felt a fading before the crack ?
> Since my brakes came back to life 20 minutes later
after they cooled in the
> pits, I concluded that I had boiled the brake
fluid. It's Racing Blue, BTW.
And you know why ! The rotors are not able to take up
the heat and therefore all
other parts will be heated up too. Especially the
pads and the calipers. Finally
the brake fluid will start boiling if the
rotors are not cooled enough to take
the heat away.
> When driven harder, it eats brakes faster. It's a
heavy, fast car, and the
> brakes are not up to the task. We gotta work on
this!
Yes, put Bremsas on it, go for the Porsche setup or
spend $6000 on the ap-racing
setup. If you stay using the PowerSlots it's
just a matter of time till the
stuff cracks again and you're in danger to go
off the track. You're lucky not
ended like the M3 or Porsche.
> My new brake cooling air ducts seem to work.
Although I lost the brakes
> every session, I didn't come off the track a
single time with smoking
> brakes like I did last year. And I could work
on the brakes almost
> immediately - last year, I had to wait 15 minutes
before going near them
> because they were so hot. So the ducts ARE
cooling them down, just not
> enough.
Any little air that helps to cool down the rotors help.
Why not installing a
thermocouple to the calipers to check out the real
temperature. After my last
driving class the Bremsas were really damn hot and
I burnt my finger. The Pagid
pads look more worn than expected with typical
signs of overheating (looks like
very small parts left the pads and caused
small holes) You can also see some
small grooves on the rotor
then.
> Braking problems will be the subject of my next
post - "Adventures in
> Braking" I have a coupla ideas to bounce
off the tech wizards. I'm getting
> dang sick and tired of working in
"Old Poop's Brake Shop" for the entire
> weekend.
Well, I think only good rotors, a set of expensive pads
and braided steel lines
(dunno if you have them already) will bring you
forward. Going to the Brembo big
brakes will help you from the calipers view.
Interestingly, the Brembo upgrade
uses smaller rotors than my EU car has
stock ?! For about $2650 you should be
able to get the MovIt Porsche/Brembo
upgrade for the fronts (gulp) IMHO, this is
the best bang for the buck and I
heard nothing but good about them (Supra, M3,
M5).
BTW, just always bleed the brakes before you go to the
track. Only a little air
in it helps to heat it up more then
normal.
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 13:16:50
1999
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Date:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS light
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Hey Michael:
My anti-lock light came on this morning also. Any
luck on your end?
I've got to believe that it simply requires running
diagnostics.
Scott
On Wed, 14 Apr 1999 11:54:33 -0700 (PDT) Michael
Klassen
<mike_klassen@yahoo.com>
writes:
>I just looked up the TSB's at all data, what do you suppose this
one
>says?
>
>080293 JAN
93 Supplemental Restraint Diagnostic Code
Erase
>Function
>
>Mike
>
>--- Michael Klassen
<mike_klassen@yahoo.com>
wrote:
>> Scott
>> What a coincidence! Mine has 108k
(kilometers) as well. I don't
>believe in
>> coincidence,
what about you?
>> Mike
>>
>> --- Scott J Cowan
<sjc0u812@juno.com>
wrote:
>> > Mike:
>> >
>> > I'm going
through the same thing right now. Mine came on Friday.
>The
>> > dealer wants $35 to run the diagnostics to tell me
what's wrong.
>One
>> > person indicated that it *may*
come on at a preset interval for
>checking,
>> > but I don't
know if that's true or not. Another indicated that
>the
>>
> dealer simply by running the diagnostics would turn it back off.
>Again,
>> > I don't know if that's true either. I
asked the mechanic this and
>he
>> > indicated that this
scenario only applied to other vehicles like
>trucks
>> > and
such, not in this instance with this system. Basically he
>told
me
>> > one of the sensors must be bad. I'm not sure I beleive
that
>either. I'm
>> > curious, how many miles do you
have on yours? I just turned
>108,5K.
>> >
>>
> Regards,
>> >
>> > Scott
>> > '92
VR4
>> >
>> > >My SRS light is on and I was
wondering if anyone knew a way to
>reset
>> > >it?
I
>> > >took it to the dealer and they found that it was both
rear wheel
>
>> > >sensors that
>> > >had
gotten iced up. They cleaned them off and it went off. It's
>too
>> > >warm for
>> > >any ice build up now.
Maybe its moisture buildup? Any ideas?
>> >
>> >
>> >
>___________________________________________________________________
>>
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet
>e-mail.
>> > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
>http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>>
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>> > For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>> > http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>>
>>
_________________________________________________________
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Yahoo!?
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>>
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 13:34:46
1999
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:37:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake upgrade -Reply -Reply
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Hey Gavin,
I don't know if anyone from the list is
interested in our little
discussion here.. so if you have more questions or
thoughts please
email me privately... I don't want the TEAM 3S police pulling
us over..
hehe
As for the Brembo rotors.. I think they were
12.8in.. and the '93+
stockers were 13.1in.. I've heard the 13.1 rotors will
not fit in 1st
gen wheels.. besides.. i don't think bigger rotors adds to
braking
power.. it's all about the calipers..
As for 'Porterfield pre-treated'.. they
heat-treat the stockers to
make them stronger and will stand higher temp..
atleast thats what they
told me..
The Brembo rotors are not impressive.. the
caliper is.. If you are
into road racing and need constant stopping power
from 140+mph laps
after laps, this is the way to go.. if you're into 1/4mile
or
occasional street/hwy races.. maybe the stock caliper is
sufficent..
maybe.. hehe
On a side note.. a friend of mine.. (remember
'White Lighting' years
ago?? haha).. we tested out our top speed on the long
straight stretch
of road to Vegas.. he hit 180mph (on his speedometer).. then
tried to
brake.. his stock brakes completely failed.. luckily there was
no
traffic at all and the car eventually slowed down.. I tried the
same
thing.. didn't quite hit 180.. about 175.. i was scared =( ... but
my
Brembos worked!! The moral of this story?? hmm.. Got Brembo??
George
'92 RT TT
p.s. Does anyone know if AP make a 6 piston brake kit
for our car???
--- Gavin Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com> wrote:
> How what
is the performance like over stock? And
> what do you mean
> by
"Porterfield pre-treated stocker". Is this a
> "stock"
rotor with some type
> of treatment? Also does the brembo kit increase
the
> rotor size? This kit is
> seemingly not very
impressive...
>
> Thanks,
> Gavin
>
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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At 11:26 AM 4/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi
Rich,
>
>Great report. That is incredible that two PowerSlot
rotors cracked at
>two different times, each on their first day of a track
event. I guess
>they can be ruled out for extreme performance
conditions.
My sentiments exactly. My rotors actually broke into
two pieces, with the
rotor snapping away from the hub.
Try the KVR
>or Porterfield rotors next and
give us a report. Maybe you'll also want
>to talk to Brad Bedall
about his brake kit that replaces the stock
>calipers with OE Porsche
(Brembo) and the stock rotors with KVR.
I think we just heard in a previous post that Brembos
crack.
As I understand it, the Brembos remain in one piece, and just crack at
the
drilled holes. If they are breaking apart like mine do, that's
dangerous.
>
>This information is extremely valuable since I know
many folks will
>upgrade their brakes in the future.
We gotta solve the problem! The VR4 is such a great car
otherwise.
I'm sorry it is so costly for
you
>though.
I'll drink to that.
>
Rich/old
poop
>I am very satisfied with the Porterfield
pre-treated stock rotors..<snip>
>I happen to have a pic of the
rotors.. I'll email it privately to you.
>Anyone who wants to see it
please email me..
George:
Sorry, for the public reply, but I couldn't figure out
what your e-mail
address is.
I'd like a copy of the pic.
The Porterfields actually last, eh? How often do you
have to change front
pads?
At $120 a front set, I hope it's not too
often.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>Go to this link : http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake.html
>
>These
brakes are using the big Brembo calipers with Porsche mods. Also
the
rotor
>is from Porsche, but not for all applications. As far as I
know they are
made by
>the same company as the Bremsas then and also
use then the same blue anodized
>Erdal hub. I think the ones for our cars
will be like that.
I went to the site, and did not find our car
listed.
For $3,000 a set, I think I'll look elsewhere anyway.
At 09:03 PM 4/19/99 +0200, you wrote:
>Thanks for
the nice track story :)
You're welcome.
>
>> front straight at
110, got on the brakes - and BANG! I broke another
>> PowerSlot slotted
rotor. Just like last year, I broke that sucker in
two.
>
>Unfortunately, this proves what frinds from the
Camaro/Firebird lists
>experienced. PowerSlots work good but over a
specific temperature they
will go
>:(( If you have them on your car
just be aware not to overheat them. Did you
>felt a fading before the
crack ?
Yes, but it was at the end of the session, and my
brakes always start going
away by then.
But, like I noted in the part
about my air ducts, they don't appear to be
getting all that
hot.
>
>
>> When driven harder, it eats brakes faster. It's
a heavy, fast car, and the
>> brakes are not up to the task. We gotta
work on this!
>
>Yes, put Bremsas on it, go for the Porsche setup or
spend $6000 on the
ap-racing
>setup. If you stay using the PowerSlots
it's just a matter of time till the
>stuff cracks again and you're in
danger to go off the track. You're lucky not
>ended like the M3 or
Porsche.
Unless PowerSlot comes through with a better solution,
I am done with them.
I've been lucky both times that the rotors snapped at
either a reasonable
speed or in a location where I could handle suddenly
having no brakes at
all. The other problem is that when they break in two
like that, they can
very easily slice off the caliper. I don't care to take
that chance again.
Going to the Brembo big
>brakes will help you
from the calipers view. Interestingly, the Brembo
upgrade
>uses smaller
rotors than my EU car has stock ?! For about $2650 you should be
>able to
get the MovIt Porsche/Brembo upgrade for the fronts (gulp) IMHO,
this
is
>the best bang for the buck and I heard nothing but good about them
(Supra,
M3,
>M5).
For $2650, they BETTER be good. Too much for me,
though.
As for your Brembo upgrade, I recall that you complained about it
recently.
>
>BTW, just always bleed the brakes before you go to the
track. Only a
little air
>in it helps to heat it up more then
normal.
Yep, did that too.
At 01:37 PM 4/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hey
Gavin,
>
> I don't know if anyone from the list is interested
in our little
>discussion here.. so if you have more questions or thoughts
please
>email me privately... I don't want the TEAM 3S police pulling us
over..
>hehe
George...
Any particular reason why the stock brakes would fail
due to high speed? Or
was it excessive fade due to repeated hard use? I've
had my VR4 over 140mph
a number of times and plan to peg the speedo with my
new mods. The thought
of tripping some hidden "you're going too
fast" switch that cuts out the
brakes would be enough to cramp my
style. :-)
BTW...have people had the same problem with Stillen
rotors cracking and/or
breaking?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
<snip>
On a side note.. a friend of mine.. (remember
'White Lighting' years
ago?? haha).. we tested out our top speed on the long
straight stretch
of road to Vegas.. he hit 180mph (on his speedometer).. then
tried to
brake.. his stock brakes completely failed.. luckily there was
no
traffic at all and the car eventually slowed down.. I tried the
same
thing.. didn't quite hit 180.. about 175.. i was scared =( ... but
my
Brembos worked!! The moral of this story?? hmm.. Got Brembo??
Merritt wrote:
>
>
> Try the KVR
> >or Porterfield
rotors next and give us a report. Maybe you'll also want
> >to
talk to Brad Bedall about his brake kit that replaces the stock
>
>calipers with OE Porsche (Brembo) and the stock rotors with KVR.
>
> I think we just heard in a previous post that Brembos crack.
> As
I understand it, the Brembos remain in one piece, and just crack at the
>
drilled holes. If they are breaking apart like mine do, that's
dangerous.
Whoops, I think you misunderstood me. In Brad's
kit, which by the way
is about $1500 last time I checked, only the calipers
are OE
Porsche/Brembo. The rotors are KVR. As far as I know, no
one on any of
our lists has broken a rotor by KVR or Porterfield.
Maybe Brad can join this discussion and add his
experience.
--
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 14:16:32
1999
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 14:17:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Brake failure???
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Chris,
This particular 180mph wild ride's brake failure
was due to the
weight of the car and imagine the velocity of it at that
speed.. i
think the stock calipers just didnt have enough power to grab
the
rotors.. there was no excessive braking prior.. i would imagine a
big
difference in the power needed to stop our cars at 140 and at
180...
but of course i got a 'D' in physics in HS. =)
--- Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
wrote:
> George...
>
> Any particular reason why the stock
brakes would
> fail due to high speed? Or
> was it excessive fade
due to repeated hard use? I've
> had my VR4 over 140mph
> a number
of times and plan to peg the speedo with my
> new mods.
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> <snip>
>
> On a
side note.. a friend of mine.. (remember
> 'White Lighting' years
>
ago?? haha).. we tested out our top speed on the
> long straight
stretch
> of road to Vegas.. he hit 180mph (on his
> speedometer)..
then tried to
> brake.. his stock brakes completely failed..
luckily
> there was no
> traffic at all and the car eventually
slowed down..
> I tried the same
> thing.. didn't quite hit 180..
about 175.. i was
> scared =( ... but my
> Brembos worked!! The
moral of this story?? hmm.. Got
> Brembo??
>
> George
>
'92 RT TT
_________________________________________________________
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You Yahoo!?
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 14:55:14
1999
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 14:55:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: SX fuel filter
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Hi List,
Does anyone know if the SX fuel filters from
Nexusmotorsports are
direct replacements?? Do they flow better than stock?
I'm in need to
replace the fuel filter soon, just wondering if I should stay
with
stock or something else. Any input in appreciated. Thanx. Oh
yea,
whats the price of the stock unit?
George
_________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 15:05:16
1999
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To:
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Date:
Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:00:16 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Walbro Fuel Pump Upgrade vs.
HKS
Message-ID: <19990420.170027.4294.0.PEARLVR42C@juno.com>
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Hoping to get some good feedback here.
I recently
found an amazing deal on Walbro fuel pump upgrades for the
VR4. Now
originally I was going to get the HKS upgrade but for the price
I don't
know. The Walbro flows 255 liters per hour, what does the
HKS
flow? Does the Walbro simply slide into the stock mounting brackets
like
I heard the HKS does, or does it require modifications? And does
anyone
know how much HP a Walbro will support? Or is everyones opinion
that the
HKS is the way to go.
Thanks for all info,
Del
Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 15:21:01
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Friends,
> As for your Brembo upgrade, I recall that you
complained about it recently.
Please don't mix-up the Brembo upgrade and other
upgrades using Brembo parts !
The known Brembo upgrade is from Stillen using their
own rotors and Brembo
calipers used at the F40 (nice older Ferrari, not that
heavy car). Dunno about
the pads. I heard different things about this kit and
they were always bad on
the rotor side. I think the price was around $2150
for the fronts but some had
trouble when doing the calipers (bolt cracked,
rotors tend to crack from the
drills to the edge).
Then there are other combinations like the ones from
MovIt. They use the Porsche
rotors together with some newer Brembo calipers
modified for Porsche (larger
piston diameter). Also you can get the calipers
with KVR discs and pads. The
price is around $2750 and yes, it is available
for our cars. Some people just
update their web site once a year
;-)
I can even get this kit together with the Bremsa disks
from my supplier but the
price is huge (gulp).
On the physics side it's very important
> stockers were 13.1in.. I've heard the 13.1 rotors
will not fit in 1st
> gen wheels.
Yes, they must be 17"
>. besides.. i don't think bigger rotors adds to
braking
> power.. it's all about the calipers.
A big NO here ! Larger rotors are able to move more
heat away due to the larger
surface. Also the way the rotor travels trough
the pads on one turn is longer
the larger the center of the calipers is away
from the axle. Therefore a larger
diameter is not getting that hot as a
smaller one. Simple physical things.
Bigger calipers are having a larger area that can
remove more heat away from the
fluid and the pads. The power of our stock
calipers is very good and I can tell
you a great stopping power with the
setup I do have. As said the bigger calipers
will help to remove the heat as
well as they are needed when getting larger
disks/rotors.
Please also do not forget the force that acts on the
parts at the suspension ! A
kit for our cars MUST consider the weakest
elements on the front suspension
parts and this is why no 330mm setup is
available. This stopping power could
definitely crack some parts around the
wheel and this is too dangerous. As far
as I know the 321mm is the max size
with a 4-pot caliper and 30mm thick disks.
An ap-racing caliper would fit
17" while using the Brembo caliper needs 18" with
this large
rotors.
Regarding the price, you'll get what you pay for. The
danger of a cracking rotor
and the damage that could occur would be worth
this money. I do not often race
the car than on a small test track here in
Switzerland. It is large enough to
get the stock ones fading and loosing some
seconds. I paid about $1000 for the
Bremsa disks/hubs and another $200 for
the Pagids. On the track or when braking
down very hard they are amazing and
the rear ones just completed this (they
helped to keep the car straight when
braking hard). How much worth is security
and braking power ? If you go for
such a race every once in a month, just do the
calculation. Maybe $2000 -
$3000 is then not too expensive anymore.
If anyone is planning to install a bleeder valve (urgh)
he will have more power
but not the power to stop. If you plan to go the
power path you must also go the
way to stop your monster. I thought this
right after installing the BC and got
the new sets of rotors only a week
after the more power kicked in.
Unfortunately, this is the expensive way, but
if you don't want to go this, then
watch out every turn and feel like the
brake pedal is vibrating more and more.
This would scare me too much
:)
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 15:25:39
1999
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> Does anyone know if the SX fuel
filters from Nexusmotorsports are
> direct replacements?? Do they flow
better than stock?
Yes it flows better but no, it is not a direct
replacement. You need to get
banjo-adapters or more to make everything fit.
But the stock one is good and I
don0t plan to replace it until the big AFPR
and fuel rail will find their way
into the car.
Later,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 15:31:53
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Re: Team3S: Walbro Fuel Pump Upgrade vs. HKS
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> I recently found an amazing deal on Walbro fuel
pump upgrades for the
> VR4.
Yes, get it directly from the DSM guy who does the GPs.
Mikael from Sweden
ordered one from the last GP.
> Now originally I was going to get the HKS upgrade
but for the price
> I don't know. The Walbro flows 255 liters per
hour, what does the HKS
> flow?
Well, here the BIG question kicks in : On what fuel
pressure is this flow
measured ??? The Walbro you refer is the smaller one
but they do have the bigger
one available that flow up to 290 litres per
hour. If the HKS (Denso pump) is
measured at the same flow than you'll get
around 341 l/hr.
The hp capabilty is not worth to mention as this
depends too much on other
variables (or who know how much hp our cars are
making at 290l/h ?)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 15:40:22
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:40:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Brake failure???
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Good point Roger.. maybe that's why I got a 'D' in
physics in HS.. and
you are the engineer.. hehe
Oh yea.. one important thing I forgot to mention.
7 of 10 front wheel
studs broke off while a mechanic was trying to take my
wheels off last
year. He said the studs are too weak for the Brembo
setup.. he
recommend me changing them often.. I freaked out when I saw how
easily
they just broke.. imagine that happening when I'm driving.. anyone
know
a place that could make stronger studs??
George
> >. besides.. i don't think bigger rotors adds
to
> braking
> > power.. it's all about the calipers.
>
> A big NO here ! Larger rotors are able to move more
> heat away
due to the larger
> surface. Also the way the rotor travels trough
the
> pads on one turn is longer
> the larger the center of the
calipers is away from
> the axle. Therefore a larger
> diameter is
not getting that hot as a smaller one.
> Simple physical things.
>
> Bigger calipers are having a larger area that can
> remove more
heat away from the
> fluid and the pads. The power of our stock
calipers
> is very good and I can tell
> you a great stopping power
with the setup I do have.
> As said the bigger calipers
> will help
to remove the heat as well as they are
> needed when getting
larger
> disks/rotors.
>
> Please also do not forget the
force that acts on the
> parts at the suspension ! A
> kit for our
cars MUST consider the weakest elements
> on the front suspension
>
parts and this is why no 330mm setup is available.
> This stopping power
could
> definitely crack some parts around the wheel and
> this is
too dangerous. As far
> as I know the 321mm is the max size with a
4-pot
> caliper and 30mm thick disks.
> An ap-racing caliper would
fit 17" while using the
> Brembo caliper needs 18" with
>
this large rotors.
>
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Roger...
Why are you planning on replacing your FPR? My
understanding has been that
the stock unit is adequate to handle an
aftermarket pump. Anyone already
replace their FPR along with an injector and
pump upgrade? Reasoning?
BTW...whoever was curious...the HKS pump is 90 gph,
which my calculator
translates into 341 lph, for those who insist on the
metric system. :-)
It replaces the stock unit quite
nicely.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
> Does anyone know if the SX fuel
filters from Nexusmotorsports are
> direct replacements?? Do they flow
better than stock?
Yes it flows better but no, it is not a direct
replacement. You need to get
banjo-adapters or more to make everything fit.
But the stock one is good and
I
don0t plan to replace it until the big
AFPR and fuel rail will find their
way
into the car.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 15:50:38
1999
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Date:
Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:44:02 -0500
Subject: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock
MAS?
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Does anybody here have experience or a well backed
opinion on how fast
you can go with the stock Mass Air Sensor? Would
high 11's be possible?
Reason being I was interested in getting an AFC for
$350 (250 used), over
a VPC $850 and could then use the extra money on
injectors and a fuel
pump.
Could a car using 13G's, 550cc's, upgraded
pump, and an AFC run high 11
1/4 mile times?
Thanks all,
Del
Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 16:02:20
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Re: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock MAS?
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Del A Kolasinski wrote:
>
> Does anybody
here have experience or a well backed opinion on how fast
> you can go
with the stock Mass Air Sensor? Would high 11's be possible?
I'm not sure but I think the limitation is not the MAS
at this time. The 13G may
peak up to 1.3 bars but good boost is around
2.5bars. The 13G may not be able to
feed more air as the MAS can deliver
anyway.
> Reason being I was interested in getting an AFC
for $350 (250 used), over
> a VPC $850 and could then use the extra money
on injectors and a fuel
> pump.
A bigger fuel pump is a MUST anyways as the injectors
are. It seems you just
want to dump in the fuel to prevent detonation. With
this you are wasting some
energy and I doubt that you'll see the 11s. Maybe
with really loosing some
weight (I mean the car) but I'd vote for 12.15 at
best.
Go for it and check it out. If it doesn't work liek
desired you can still go for
a VPC later (by selling the AFC
then)
Let us know how it works :)
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
> Why are you planning on replacing your FPR? My
understanding has been that
> the stock unit is adequate to handle an
aftermarket pump. Anyone already
> replace their FPR along with an
injector and pump upgrade? Reasoning?
Fine-tuning and increasing the flow from/to the fuel
rail including replacing
the small connection pipe. I already have the Paxton
AFPR and fuel filter but
have not decided yet how to mount everything (and
where). After the 720cc,
bigger pump and the ECU I don't want the rails fed
like they are today. Big
project ahead :)
Cheers,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Sorry to waste the bandwith but I lost your personal
email address.
Noticed your turbo and injector upgrade. My question
is, does the GForce
ECU upgrade control all these upgrades good enough or are
you looking
into other means of fuel management?
Thanks,
Del
Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
A while back you guys were all debating about
whether
or not a VR4 could run 11's on stock turbos.
Well, if I'm not mistaken, it has already been done
in
Japan by the green Puma GTO N1, a second-gen VR4.
It ran 11.99 in the
400m, and according to its spec sheet
(and Henry Yam) it runs stock turbos
because of the
class it races/raced in. The car is completely
gutted
w/ a rollcage with a total weight of 1460kg (3220lbs),
and it runs
full slicks with about 8 degrees of neg. camber.
That's all for now.
--Errin Humphrey
Yellow VR4
Chris,
I have the Stillen rotors. These are basically
the stock size rotors,
but they are crossdrilled and have some vanadium (gold
like color)
coating that supposed to prevent them from rusting (no rust =
better
thermal conductivity).
I've only done autocrosses so I couldn't comment about
stopping from
140mph turn after turn, but all I can say is that in a few
autoXs I had
to break from 80mph down to about 15mph and the first few laps
it was
OK, no detectable fading but the 4th one, I just couldn't stop.
On top
of that there was a lot of smoke coming out of my front wheels.
One aspect about AutoXs is that you get about a 15min
cooling period in
between laps so I'm sure that if I had to run continuos
laps the breaks
would have failed on the last part of the 2nd lap or the
beginning of
the 3rd.
Luckily for me, no broken rotors yet!
In my opinion, the best way to get a very good brake
setup is upgrading
to either the Bremsas, or the Porsche kit and then
removing about 800
lbs from the car... ;)
-Jose
'92 Stealth TT - Stock calipers, stillen
rotors (neither broken nor
warped - yet!)
Chris Winkley wrote:
><SNIP>
>
> BTW...have people had the same problem with Stillen rotors cracking
> and/or breaking?
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
>
><SNIP>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Hey Gang,
Well it looks like I'm thinking of doing a "
Second Wave " of mods on my VR4
( This is the same guy that said "
Its going to stay Stock " - Yeah Right )
Anyway, I'm thinking of doing the following on my car
:
1. HKS Super Sequential Blow Off
Valve
2. HKS Fuel Pump
3. AFC ( or
similar mod :o)
Mods currently on car are just the basic stuff
:
Custom Exhaust, Downpipe, K&N, HKS EVC IV, and a
boost gauge
So . . . .
. . . the question I want to ask is , can
I up to boost to 16 - 17 lbs with the aid of
the expected fuel mods .
( If
not 17, then at least 16 ? )
Please keep in mind that I will still have the
stock injectors and turbos ( So is this
all just a pipe dream
:o)
ALSO : Since my car is a 1996 VR4, will it set off the
OBDII software in my computer (
e.g. the AFC ) ?
Thanx for any help you guys can offer
Irving
96 VR4
( current boost setting is only
14.5 lbs )
Judging by my problems and those of others, and the
posts winging their way
from Europe to the US and back, we have a serious
braking problem with our
Stealth/3000 GT turbo cars.
It's simple: we are trying to stop a 3700 lb car that
goes very, very fast,
and its stock brakes are not up to it.
Problems include:
PowerSlot slotted rotors tend to
break. That is, the rotor separates from
the hub.
Stillen drilled rotors
tend to crack at the drilled holes.
Brembo/Porsche parts are very, very
expensive and still don't do the job.
We go through a set of pads PER DAY at
open track events.
We need to find a solution.
I propose that we establish a little corner of the two
groups devoted to
braking. Anyone who does not do any serious racing can
ignore this
discussion. Just put "Braking" in the subject line, and
those who don't
care can ignore all this.
First of all, we need to find out what DOES NOT work.
For this, we need
horror stories. If you have done any road racing,
autocrossing, rallying,
or any other endeavor that requires using brakes,
please come back and tell
us what does not work.
We need to know:
What racing you do?
What parts
did you use (rotors, calipers & pads)?
What happened? What went wrong?
Did the rotors break or crack? Did your
pads wear out?
Second, we need to find out what DOES WORK. For
this, we need success
stories. Again, if you have done any road racing, etc.,
and your system
worked, please tell us about it.
Third, we need IDEAS. There are dozens of
brilliant engineers and racers
on these lists, and we ought to be able to
solve anything.
Just to get us all started, read my second post. It
contains all three
topics.
PLEASE contribute if you have anything that might help.
Our cars are very
cometitive in open track events, if we can just stop
it!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>> As for your Brembo upgrade, I recall that you
complained about it recently.
>
>Please don't mix-up the Brembo
upgrade and other upgrades using Brembo
parts !
Say what? I think you lost me there.
As promised, here's my input to the discussion.
I
humbly suggest that everyone who wishes to contribute follow this format.
WHAT I DO
I run Porsche Club driver's schools/open
track events. Done three so far. I
am in Group 2, which includes folks who
have taken the novice driver's
course. I have run only at Heartland Park in
Topeka, Kansas. I run
PowerSlot slotted rotors with Performance Friction 460Z
PGD 631 pads.
THINGS THAT DO NOT WORK
PowerSlot slotted rotors do not work. I have broken two
of them at open
track events. In both cases, under hard braking the rotor
broke away from
the hub, rendering the entire braking system useless.
Breaking a rotor in
half at high speed can also result in the loose rotor
slicing off a
caliper. I will never use PowerSlot rotors again, and I urge
you to not use
them either. The suckers are DANGEROUS.
ABS does not work: Our ABS cannot deal with the
loss of one wheel. It just
gives up. Lose a rotor, and you lose the entire
system.
Performance Friction 460Z PGD 631 pads do not work. Oh,
they stop the car
allright. Like dropping an anchor. But they only lasted
three 20 minute
sessions. They work, but their life span is unacceptably
short. Which
means, for our purposes, they don't work.
Stock rotors do not work. They get hot and warp.
THINGS THAT DO WORK
I installed a duct system to bring air up from simple 1
x 6 in. scoops
under the front valence directly to the calipers. I removed
the dust plate
from the back of the rotor, fabricated a bracket to hold the
ABS sensor
cable, and ran a length of round 2 in. industrial duct from the
scoop to
the opening behind the caliper. I've had some minor problems
anchoring the
duct at both ends, but it seems to work. By "work" I
mean that it seems to
have kept the temperatures down somewhat. Without a
sensor I can't say how
much. All I know is that the brakes no longer smoke,
and I can work on them
as soon as we pit the car (after some cooldown laps).
Last year, I could
not go near the brakes for at least 15
minutes.
IDEAS
1. Disconnect the ABS: As noted above, it is
dangerous if a failure
occurs. Besides, disconnecting the ABS may permit idea
number two:
2. Install a brake proportioning valve, and move more
braking power to the
rears. At present, the rears are more or less useless.
With the ABS, they
contribute very little. I'm still running pads from last
year back there,
and they show no signs of wear. I suggest we dial some rear
brake into the
stopping equation. I suspect that the ABS will not permit a
proportioning
valve, which is why we may have to disconnect it.
3. Install a water cooling system in the air ducts. A
Trans-Am racer
suggested this to me. All we have to do, he said, was to
install a
windshield wiper squirter in each air duct line, and connect them
to the
brake switch. Whenever we hit the brakes, each would squirt cooling
water
into the air duct. The water would vaporize in the air flow, and help
cool
down the brakes. He wasn't too specific as to exactly where the
squirters
should be-- up front at the air intake, in the middle of the duct,
or very
near the calipers. Ideas, anyone?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
The Brembo/Porsche solution isn't really that expensive
in the grand scheme
of things. In fact, it is likely the most
economical and biggest bang for
the buck out there. When I refer to
Brembo/Porsche, I am referring
specifically to a setup similar to what Brad
Bedell put together, not the
one that Stillen remarkets. Brad's are
full 320mm rotors, the same used on
production Porsche race cars, and the OE
Porsche rotors are Porsche modified
Brembos.
I am not sure what expectations the roadracers have
with the brakes, but
when I raced bikes, pads were toast after a weekend of
hard racing. This is
with the best hardware money can buy.
Clearly bikes and cars have different
braking requirements and abuse the
brakes in different ways but I am sure
you see what I am getting
at.
I imagine your goals are the same, so I apologize in
advance if I am being
redundant. I'd like to suggest that expectations
be established ahead of
time since that will determine specifications.
Baer, for instance, can put
together the ultimate in braking systems as I am
sure could many others, AP
Lockheed goodies from KVR coming to mind.
Now you are talking at least
$3-5K US for rotors, calipers, hangers, plumbing
and probably master
cylinder. Also, to go beyond 13" wheel fitment
becomes an issue thus upping
the cost potentially by quite a
bit.
I'd love to see an effective and affordable braking
package for our cars
too. I just think there are practical limitations
which may come to odds
with expectations. I also think that the near
ideal setup is already
available, but I guess it would have to be tested
under the conditions you
encounter. I know putting together a test
setup for $1000 isn't exactly
pocket change, but maybe something like this
would be achievable with some
pulls and tugs here and there?
Barry
>
>I am not sure what expectations the
roadracers have with the brakes, but
>when I raced bikes, pads were toast
after a weekend of hard racing.
I'd be deleriously happy if the pads lasted an entire
weekend.
> I'd like to suggest that expectations be
established ahead of
>time since that will determine specifications.
>I'd love to see an effective and affordable braking package for our
cars
>too. I just think there are practical limitations which may
come to odds
>with expectations. I also think that the near ideal
setup is already
>available, but I guess it would have to be tested under
the conditions you
>encounter. I know putting together a test setup
for $1000 isn't exactly
>pocket change, but maybe something like this
would be achievable with some
>pulls and tugs here and
there?
>
For me, $1000 is tops for rotors, calipers and a set of
pads.
I'd be much happier with stock calipers, good rotors, and a set of
pads
that would last a weekend for less than $500.
But that's just
me.
Rich/old poop
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1999
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From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999
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> I'd be deleriously happy if the pads lasted
an
> entire weekend.
The severity of wear of the pads could due to the
quality of the
cross-drilling on the rotors. I don't know the technical
terms or how
many types of cross-drilling there are out there.. just from my
own
experience.. my 1st set of X-drills were from the place called
Dynamic
Turbo.. they claim it was Brembo rotors.. when they arrived to my
door
steps.. they were clearly x-drilled stocks.. those rotors shave my
pads
like hot butter.. the x-drillings were always filled with pad
compounds
after a few hotlaps.. that also caused premature over heating..
i
always had to poke them through in the pits.. haha =)
On the other hand.. Brembo/Stillen and Porterfield
X-drillings didn't
eat up the pads like that..
George
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Apr 19 22:27:13
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track report
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 00:24:43 -0500
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My kit is working well...
I use the KVR rotors, however a customer of mine just
split a rotor at the
hub.
This may be a weak point in the 94+ rotors. I
have had no problems with my
rotors. I do thrash on them.
DO I understand this correct? The Powerslots rotor hub
actually separated
from the swept area? If so, consider the KVR rotors
to have the same
problem.
Maybe a new rotor design would be in order here. (that
is what I am looking
in to) I have a couple different ideas, including
a thicker rotor.
Anyhow, yes 1500.00 is about what I can do the Porsche
caliper kit for.
Including SS brake lines, pagid orange pads, rotors,
brackets and related
hardware. Please direct any specific questions
about the kit to me
personally.
Thanks,
> Try the KVR
> >or Porterfield rotors next
and give us a report. Maybe you'll also want
> >to talk to Brad
Bedall about his brake kit that replaces the stock
> >calipers with OE
Porsche (Brembo) and the stock rotors with KVR.
>
> I think we just
heard in a previous post that Brembos crack.
> As I understand it, the
Brembos remain in one piece, and just crack at the
> drilled holes. If
they are breaking apart like mine do, that's dangerous.
Whoops, I think you misunderstood me. In Brad's
kit, which by the way
is about $1500 last time I checked, only the calipers
are OE
Porsche/Brembo. The rotors are KVR. As far as I know, no
one on any of
our lists has broken a rotor by KVR or
Porterfield.
Maybe Brad can join this discussion and add his
experience.
--
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 00:40:02
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From:
"james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team
3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: basic brake upgrade
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 18:06:18
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Anybody know what the NASCAR boys run ??? Last
Sunday was
Martinsville [ I think ] ----- anyway -- MUCH braking, glowing red
rotors
twice per lap for 500 laps. In addition they weigh 3500 lbs and
develop
650+ HP. I don't think there were many cracked rotors.
Jim Berry
Carbonite / Kevlar / Titanium ... Damn expensive
mixture :)
> Anybody know what the NASCAR boys run ???
Last Sunday was
> Well it looks like I'm thinking of doing a "
Second Wave " of mods on my VR4
> ( This is the same guy that said
" Its going to stay Stock " - Yeah Right )
Hehe, welcome to the club :)
> 1. HKS Super Sequential Blow Off
Valve
Choose a better one, this one is still made of plastic
under the aluminum body.
But performance wise, the BOV is not
needed.
> 2. HKS Fuel Pump
Or a Walbro on a much cheaper price. If you don't go
for bigger than 560cc
injectors then the pump is good enough.
> 3. AFC ( or similar mod
:o)
Ok, but what should it do for you ?
> . . . the question I want to ask is , can I up to
boost to 16 - 17 lbs with
> the aid of the expected fuel mods
.
No, you need to be able to deliver more fuel but after
15psi the injectors are
close to maxed out. To prevent detonation on higher
boost you must use the gas
to cool down the chamber. Your stock injectors
will max out and the ECU will
activate the fuel cut when trying to increase
fuel with the AFC. There is no way
around bigger injectors !
> ( If not 17, then at least 16 ? )
> Please
keep in mind that I will still have the stock injectors and turbos ( So is
this
> all just a pipe dream :o)
Just leave the turbos out of the discussion as with the
appropriate fuel mods
aou'll be able to run 18psi.
> ALSO : Since my car is a 1996 VR4, will it set off
the OBDII software in my computer (
> e.g. the AFC ) ?
No, null problemo :)
My advice : Get an AFC (ask Matt Meyer, Acc.Acc.
directly), or look at the DSM
parts trader. I've seen them used between $200
- $250. But it is of no use
without bigger injectors. Get a good set of 560cc
of any brand and finally get
the Walbro 290 l/hr pump. These three parts
together will cost you about $1100.
The BOV is not needed to achieve the
desired boost but use a good wideband
O2-sensor together with a A/F meter to
be able to tune in the AFC.
BTW, don't forget to regap the plugs.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 01:26:35
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Date:
Tue, 20 Apr 1999 10:28:22 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Team3S: Wide band O2 sensor ?
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Unfortunately, the stock O2 sensors act somewhat
digital, rich or lean and they
do not have a large "hysteresis"
area.
To tune in our cars properly it would be interesting to
know how much rich or
how much lean the setting is. Fore this a good O2
wideband sensor together with
an A/F meter would be very
helpful.
I know Autometer is offering one as well as Bosch but
does anyone know if these
are widebands and what the sensors usually cost
?
BTW, the ECU should not have any problem with
them.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 01:58:52
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Re: Team3S: Adventures in braking -- Old poop inputs
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> WHAT I DO
> I run Porsche Club driver's
schools/open track events. Done three so far.
Ho much times a year ?
> THINGS THAT DO NOT WORK
> PowerSlot slotted
rotors do not work.
I agree !
> ABS does not work: Our ABS cannot deal with
the loss of one wheel. It just
> gives up. Lose a rotor, and you lose the
entire system.
Sounds really strange ! I'm sure there is an ABS fuse
:)
> Performance Friction 460Z PGD 631 pads do not
work. Oh, they stop the car
> allright. Like dropping an anchor. But they
only lasted three 20 minute
Not really the cause ! Remember, the PowerSlots are
slotted and this will cause
about 20% more pad wear. The setup must be
properly combined together. But I
always used a set per day until I got the
Pagids. They looked almost the same
after the last day :)
> Stock rotors do not work. They get hot and
warp.
Very true. My horror story is the accident I had on the
german Autobahn. It was
a hot summer afternoon and I drove aroun 150+ mph and
had to brake down several
time. As the accident happend I felt a huge fading.
With the brakes I do have
now I'd been able to get behind the truck and not
beside of it.
> THINGS THAT DO WORK
>
> I installed a
duct system to bring air up from simple 1 x 6 in. scoops
Every little helps !
> as soon as we pit the car (after some cooldown
laps). Last year, I could
> not go near the brakes for at least 15
minutes.
But you boiled the brake fluid ... still too much heat
there. Also removing the
shield my be the cause for heating up everything
else there.
> IDEAS
>
> 1. Disconnect the
ABS: As noted above, it is dangerous if a failure
> occurs. Besides,
disconnecting the ABS may permit idea number two:
Not sure 100% about this as it sounds really strange to
me. Something was wrong
IMO. Anyway, look into the manual and search the ABS
fuse.
> 2. Install a brake proportioning valve, and move
more braking power to the
> rears. At present, the rears are more or less
useless.
Your problem number two. My rear ones are also pretty
hot after a day and I can
see some pad wear. Since I installed the Bremsas to
the rear too, I'm very happy
how straight the Animal brakes under heavy
conditions. I'm not sure about the 94
but what kind of calipers do you have
in the rear. The first gen had the
one-piston caliper while the newer and EU
cars got the stronger 2-piston types.
> I suspect that the ABS will not permit a
proportioning
> valve, which is why we may have to disconnect
it.
No, a proportioning valve should nothing do to the ABS.
But with the proper
brake system I do not see a need for this.
> 3. Install a water cooling system in the air
ducts.
> The water would vaporize in the air flow, and help cool down the
brakes.
I'd keep my hands off this crap. Do you really think
that the water vaporizes ?
It doesn't vaporise on the windscreen and
therefore not in this duct. Using a
heavy pump and the right nozzle will do
this but the water will finally come to
the rotors as it will condense in the
path. And this is not good to the metal.
Heat the things up like hell and
spray water on it can warp them immediatly.
This is not the same like driving
in rain as the humidity and ambient is
different. Have you seen any racing
car that needs such stuff ?
For me it's clear that good rotors and pads are the
things you need at first. As
you don't want to spend the needed amount of
money you do not have a lot if any
option. You ask for a solution, there are
many. But there is no stopping without
taking money out of your wallet
!
Things to remember :
- Crossdrilled rotors (drilled before finishing) tend
to crack and eat up pads
- Slotted rotors "shave" the pads (20%
more wear)
- Too big rotors and too much force can cause damage to the front
suspension
- Big turbos give you more power - better brakes help to stop this
power
Both are about the same price, no way out :(
One last idea : Why not buying wheels that shave air to
the brakes like a
windmill ? This would solve a lot of your problems :) Also
slot the upper part
of the fender to let air into them. This will also cool
the tires a little.
> For me, $1000 is tops for rotors, calipers and a
set of pads.
I'm sorry to sound that negative but you'll never ever
be able to get this stuff
for this price. Maybe you can organize a GP on a
good setup and the price will
drop to this with enough
contributors.
> I'd be much happier with stock calipers, good
rotors, and a set of pads
> that would last a weekend for less than
$500.
I'd say rotors for $1000 that should last about half a
year when racing a lot,
pads for $200 a set per weekend (1/2 in the rear) and
braided steel brake lines
for $280
Not too bad IMHO.
At 10:58 AM 4/20/99 +0200, you wrote:
>> WHAT
I DO
>> I run Porsche Club driver's schools/open track events. Done
three so far.
>
>How much times a year ?
Twice last year, once so far this year. I'd run more if
I had the money --
it costs $195 to enter, plus gas, hotel, meals, and brake
pads. A weekend
event can cost $500, because we have to leave on Friday to
get there. I'd
like to run about 4 events per year, hopefully at different
tracks around
the Midwest -- at RoadAmerica, Mid-Ohio, St. Louis
International and
Blackhawk Farms, for example.
>
>> Performance Friction 460Z PGD 631 pads
do not work. Oh, they stop the car
>> allright. Like dropping an
anchor. But they only lasted three 20 minute
sessions
>
>Not
really the cause ! Remember, the PowerSlots are slotted and this
will
cause
>about 20% more pad wear. The setup must be properly
combined together. But I
>always used a set per day until I got the
Pagids. They looked almost the same
>after the last day :)
Last year, the Performance Friction pads lasted the
entire weekend and
more. I changed to a compound that is more race than
street, and these 631
pads only lasted three sessions. Of course, I was going
faster.
Are you saying the $200 Pagids will last an entire weekend and more?
How
much more?
>
>
>But you boiled the brake fluid ...
still too much heat there. Also
removing the
>shield my be the cause
for heating up everything else there.
How can that be? Doesn't the shield trap the heat?
I
can't get cooling air to the brakes with the shield in place because
it
blocks all access.
And I'm convinced that my ducts help considerably,
though obviously not
enough.>
>
>> 2. Install a brake
proportioning valve, and move more braking power to the
>> rears. At
present, the rears are more or less useless.
>
>I'm not sure about
the 94
>but what kind of calipers do you have in the rear. The first gen
had the
>one-piston caliper while the newer and EU cars got the stronger
2-piston
types.
I don't know if it's a one- or two-piston caliper, but
it is definitely
smaller than the front calipers. Do you think it's possible
to install a
set of big front calipers on the
rear?
>
>
>> 3. Install a water cooling system in the air
ducts.
>> The water would vaporize in the air flow, and help cool down
the brakes.
>
>Heat the things up like hell and spray water on it
can warp them immediatly.
>This is not the same like driving in rain as
the humidity and ambient is
>different. Have you seen any racing car that
needs such stuff ?
A TransAm crew member suggested it. I agree that
injecting water directly
onto the rotor is a bad idea. But perhaps by
injecting water at the front,
the rapidly rushing air through the duct would
create an aerosol mist
(rather than a deluge), so it wouldn't be like
throwing cold water on a hot
disk. More like throwing cold, moist air. It
probably would work better at
high speeds than it would in slow corners,
because air flow would be much
greater at speed. Maybe it's suitable
only on long straights. I dunno.
That's why I posed the
question.
>For me it's clear that good rotors and pads are the
things you need at
first. As
>you don't want to spend the needed amount
of money you do not have a lot
if any
>option. You ask for a solution,
there are many. But there is no stopping
without
>taking money out of
your wallet !
I don't want to spend $2700, that's for sure.
I also
hate to spend lots of money and get no results. We've heard horror
stories
right here on the list of guys spending $2000 and having rotors
crack. Brad's
$1500 Porsche system is sounding better all the time, but
even his KVR rotors
break. George Kuo's Porterfield rotors are looking
good at this point,
because they are stock rotors that have been heat
treated and then
drilled. Maybe a cost-effective combination would be
Brad's Porsche kit
with Porterfield rotors.
I think this discussion is actually getting
somewhere.
This is a great list.
>
>DO I understand this correct? The
Powerslots rotor hub actually separated
>from the swept area?
Yes
>If so, consider the KVR rotors to have the same
>problem.
>Maybe a new rotor design would be in order here.
(that is what I am
looking >in to) I have a couple different ideas,
>including a thicker rotor.
Have you tried the Porterfield rotors? As I understand
it, they are stock
rotors that have been heat treated, then
drilled.
Merritt wrote:
>
> Roger Gerl
wrote:
> >
> >> 2. Install a brake proportioning valve, and
move more braking power to the
> >> rears. At present, the rears are
more or less useless.
I've thought about brake proportioning, too, as I'm
nearly through my
third pair of front pads yet still have the ORIGINAL rear
pads with
plenty of meat on them. On the other hand, I've been having a
bit of an
oversteer problem when braking in turns (I know, I know, no braking
in
turns!) and I think more rear bias would make this problem worse.
Still, overall braking effectiveness should improve if the rears do
more
of their share.
According to the shop manual, the "proportioning
valve pressure"
specification is (2nd gen):
split
point: 3.75 - 4.25 MPa or 533 - 604 psi
output
pressure: 5.23 - 5.73 MPa or 744 - 815 psi
[input pressure] 8.0 (1,138)
<- not sure what this means
I wonder if this is easily adjustable and if the ABS
could accomodate a
change?
> >I'm not sure about the 94
> >but
what kind of calipers do you have in the rear. The first gen had the
>
>one-piston caliper while the newer and EU cars got the stronger
2-piston
> types.
>
> I don't know if it's a one- or
two-piston caliper, but it is definitely
> smaller than the front
calipers. Do you think it's possible to install a
> set of big front
calipers on the rear?
Here's what the shop manual says about the brakes (2nd
gen):
Front
-----
Type: Rigid caliper, 4-piston,
ventilated disc (M-R76Z)
Disc effective diameter: 271 mm / 10.7"
Disc
thickness: 30 mm / 1.18"
Pad thickness: 15 mm / .59"
Rear
----
Type: Rigid caliper, 2-piston,
ventilated disc (M-R68X)
Disc effective diameter: 250 mm / 9.8"
Disc
thickness: 20 mm / .79"
Pad thickness: 15 mm / .60"
> >> 3. Install a water cooling system in
the air ducts.
> >> The water would vaporize in the air flow, and
help cool down the brakes.
> >
> >Heat the things up like hell
and spray water on it can warp them immediatly.
> >This is not the same
like driving in rain as the humidity and ambient is
> >different. Have
you seen any racing car that needs such stuff ?
Sounds like a bad idea to me as well (as bad as
injecting water into the
engine intake?), unless only a slight amount of
water is used and it is
well-vaporized (more like humid air!). I agree
with Roger that spraying
water directly on the rotors would cause premature
warping and possibly
even reduce braking effectiveness if too much water ends
up on the swept
area.
> I also hate to spend lots of money and get no
results. We've heard horror
> stories right here on the list of guys
spending $2000 and having rotors
> crack. Brad's $1500 Porsche system is
sounding better all the time, but
> even his KVR rotors break.
George Kuo's Porterfield rotors are looking
> good at this point, because
they are stock rotors that have been heat
> treated and then
drilled. Maybe a cost-effective combination would be
> Brad's
Porsche kit with Porterfield rotors.
Roger's right about there being no substitute for good
parts, but I'm
definitely with you on the cost. I think the stock 2nd
gen. calipers
are adequate but I am interested in finding better rotors and
pads. Did
Brad say he has seen KVR rotors break or that he suspects
that they may
suffer from the same problem as the Powerslots? Can any
of these
slotted, dimpled, cross-drilled or otherwise "enhanced"
rotor surfaces
be turned if necessary? Is there any way to have good
brakes that don't
have to warm up first? That wear well?
Etc. Lots of variables.
At any rate, I am about to have all four stock rotors
turned (for the
second and probably last time) and will probably install
fresh Abex
semi-metalic pads from Accelerated Accessories this time
around. As
this setup will unavoidably end up in my current worn,
warped state
sooner than later, I want to be ready with a SOLUTION for next
time
around.
Great discussion! Can't wait to hear more road
racing reports with
different setups. Thanx...
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 09:32:15
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:30:49
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Heya,
Since UPRD was not able(willing?) to install my
Magnecore wires and
NGK plugs, I have not yet gapped my plugs to the proper
setting. I DO notice
stumbling when at WOT, but I'm curious if the misfiring
is actually causing
harm to my engine. Other than the obvious performance
impact, am I damaging
anything by running like a bat outta hell without
gapping the plugs?
Thanks.
Dave Allison
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 09:36:22
1999
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:34:55
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Well Barry,
It just so happens my wear indicator is
screeching at me to replace
my brakes. I am now looking to drop a load of
change into my brakes. Perhaps
I CAN serve as a test setup for the list. What
should I buy that is
somewhere under $1500? Is it reasonable to assume I can
find something
acceptable in this price range?
Thanks.
Dave
I'd love to see an effective and affordable braking
package for our cars
too. I just think there are practical limitations
which may come to odds
with expectations. I also think that the near
ideal setup is already
available, but I guess it would have to be tested
under the conditions you
encounter. I know putting together a test
setup for $1000 isn't exactly
pocket change, but maybe something like this
would be achievable with some
pulls and tugs here and there?
>
>I've thought about brake proportioning,
too, as I'm nearly through my
>third pair of front pads yet still have the
ORIGINAL rear pads with
>plenty of meat on them.
Me too. Three sets of pads: one stock, two Performance
Friction carbon
metallics, and still only one set of rears.
One of the Porsche club instructors came up with the
brake proportioning
idea. That indicates it may be a universal problem among
ABS or mostly
stock (non-race-prepared) cars.
>On the other hand, I've been having a bit of
an
>oversteer problem when braking in turns (I know, I know, no braking
in
>turns!) and I think more rear bias would make this problem worse.
>Still, overall braking effectiveness should improve if the rears do
more
>of their share.
Maybe the reason you are braking in turns is because
you can't get your
braking done prior to entry. I know that Oshit!
feeling when you hit your
proper braking point but the brakes are going away,
so you overshoot the
entry, and have to stay on the hot, spongy brakes to get
the speed down. I
try to stay in a straight line, though, even if it
means messing up the
entry. Having more effective rear brakes would surely
help.
OTOH, if you are regularly braking in the middle of
turns, you have a
completely different problem that is not related to
brakes. I'd talk to an
instructor about it.
>
>According
to the shop manual, the "proportioning valve pressure"
<snip>
>I wonder if this is easily adjustable and if the ABS could
accomodate a
>change?
>
I don't know. Seems if they are
publishing pressures, SOMETHING must be
adjustable in
there.
>
>> >> 3. Install a water cooling system in the air
ducts.
>> >> The water would vaporize in the air flow, and help
cool down the brakes.
>
>Sounds like a bad idea to me as well (as
bad as injecting water into the
>engine intake?), unless only a slight
amount of water is used and it is
>well-vaporized (more like humid
air!). I agree with Roger that spraying
>water directly on the
rotors would cause premature warping and possibly
>even reduce braking
effectiveness if too much water ends up on the swept
>area.
OK, I agree with both of you.
But what about
injecting up front, and letting high speed air flow
vaporize
it?
>
>
>Roger's right about there being no
substitute for good parts, but I'm
>definitely with you on the cost.
I think the stock 2nd gen. calipers
>are adequate but I am interested in
finding better rotors and pads. Did
>Brad say he has seen KVR rotors
break or that he suspects that they may
>suffer from the same problem as
the Powerslots?
That was my impression.
>
>At any rate, I am about to have all four
stock rotors turned (for the
>second and probably last time) and will
probably install fresh Abex
>semi-metalic pads from Accelerated
Accessories this time around. As
>this setup will unavoidably end up
in my current worn, warped state
>sooner than later, I want to be ready
with a SOLUTION for next time
>around.
I'm leaning toward the Porterfield rotors, unless I
hear something better
from the other road racers.
>
>Great
discussion! Can't wait to hear more road racing reports
with
>different setups. Thanx...
So far, we've eliminated three rotors from
consideration: PowerSlots and
KVRs (for breaking in half) and Stillens (for
cracking). Not bad for one
day of discussion.
Ain't this a great list?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 09:41:26
1999
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Boost ? ? ? ? ? ? ?
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 18:36:01
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I guess that it's not that bad for the engine to
stumble little. Ofcourse it's not good either. (the unburnt fuel will actually
cool the engine)
But your precats will be hurt or killed, but who cares?
You will probably gut them anyway to get better performance. Right?
:)
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Allison <dallison@siebel.com>
Other
than the obvious performance impact, am I damaging
>anything by running
like a bat outta hell without gapping the
plugs?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave Allison
> It just so happens my wear indicator is screeching
at me to replace
>my brakes. I am now looking to drop a load of change
into my brakes. Perhaps
>I CAN serve as a test setup for the list. What
should I buy that is
>somewhere under $1500? Is it reasonable to assume I
can find something
>acceptable in this price range?
Hang on just a little longer if you can. I think we are
getting somewhere.
If you absolutely MUST change immediately, based on the
information we've
gathered so far I would go for Brad's Porsche calipers and
brake upgrade
kit but with a set of Porterfield rotors (instead of the
breakable KVRs),
and whatever pad Brad or Porterfield recommends for the
combo. That should
cost you right about $1500.
But if you can hang on, at the rate we're going we may
get to the perfect
setup in a day or so. There are several road racers who
have not yet
contributed to the discussion.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 09:44:42
1999
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Date:
Tue, 20 Apr 1999 12:49:03 -0700
Subject: Team3S: VR4 spare
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anybody know here to get just a spare tire? I
called around and NO ONE
carries the spares, mine's a little
worn.
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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On Apr 20, Nick Xiong said:
> anybody know here
to get just a spare tire? I called around and NO ONE
> carries the
spares, mine's a little worn.
The spare seems to be not too bad (I used my spare for
close to three weeks,)
but given the fact that it takes ages to get a set of
tires ordered and
delivered for our cars, I've decided not to go the spare
tire route but
instead ended up saving one of the less wornout tires from my
last
replacement for use as spare.
To answer your specific question, did you try
tirerack.com? The spare is a
tire afterall... :-)
-sankar
--
*******************************************************************************
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42
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 10:00:01
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Track report- Rotor problem
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 11:57:26
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Okay, I understand that the rotor & hub area
separated. On several
different rotor assemblies. KVR and Power
Slot.
This begs a couple of questions.
1. Is the rotor design defective? Meaning are the
cooling holes that
Mitsubishi designed defective? Or is there some problem
with the aftermarket
castings?
2. Could something else be causing the
problem? Say a flexing hub? Worn
wheel bearing etc? When in a turn, we
are putting a very large load on the
hub. Could the hub be flexing
enough to break the rotor? If so, what would
the fix be?
Any further thoughts?
I refuse to believe that only
3-4 of the people on this list are the only
ones generating enough force to
shatter a rotor. Could their cars have a
problem not seen by ordinary
check lists?
> Brad
Check out my home page: http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 10:10:02
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 spare
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 12:07:29 -0500
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Most spares are never used. Go to your local
wrecking yard and pick one up.
Look for a 94+ 3000 VR4 spare, they are aluminum and
will save a good 20lbs
over the stamped steel spare.
, mine's a little worn.
The spare seems to be not too bad (I used my spare for
close to three
weeks,)
but given the fact that it takes ages to get a set
of tires ordered and
delivered for our cars, I've decided not to go the spare
tire route but
instead ended up saving one of the less wornout tires from my
last
replacement for use as spare.
To answer your specific question, did you try
tirerack.com? The spare is a
tire afterall... :-)
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 10:17:47
1999
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:12:25
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(Long post)
Hi,
As you guys probably know Roger and I are using the
Bremsa discs. Roger are using the EU 314mm discs and I are using the US 298mm
discs.
We both use the Orange Pagids right now (Roger will
test another setup later)
We both use the stock 4 piston callipers. They are
exactly the same but mounted slightly different to fit the different disc
sizes.
We also use custom made stainless braided brakelines
(Made in Sweden).
I start with the brake lines. They probably doesn't
improve the "real" braking but it sure improves the "feel",
it's much easier to apply exactly the right pressure to the brakes now. The
sponginess is gone, especially when the brakes are on the limit to be
overheated. I'm not sure but I imagine that the braided lines help the brake
fluid to cool down. Well spent money! (~150$)
The Bremsa setup is expensive but I guess that it's
well worth it and when the discs have to be changed the cost will be less due to
the seperate disc and hub solution. I haven't tested this setup on an official
race track but I have tested it alot anyway. I have tested to brake from
200km/h-0 and then accelerated up to 200 again and back down to 0 again. over
and over.. The first time it's just stops. The second time it's stops allot
better and now it really "sqeeals" from the brakes. 3'rd time even
better braking. No fading at all ! I'm not sure if I can do this 10 times but I
don't think that there is many courses where you have to brake from 200-0.
The quality on the Bremsas are great! Even after a
extremely salty winter in Stockholm, Sweden they look like new, both the rotors
and the anodized blue aluminum hubs :)
When the brakes are cold and braking very light in slow
speeds there is a slightly vibrating feel in the brakes. But as soon as I apply
more pressure or speed they feel perfect. No warpage what so ever.
The Pagid actually look like new after a year of daily
stop and go traffic and alot of late night stupid unofficial races. (totally
~10000 miles) The only drawpack is the brakedust, it's horrible!
Ofcourse there are better brakes out there, but for the money I think that
this is the best upgrade. The stock callipers are good enough if they get some
help from really good rotors and pads. If you look for something better you will
probably have to spent another 1000 bucks or two.
Ohhh I almost forgot... I polished my callipers so they
look like crome and with the open design on my rims and the blue anodized hubs
and drilled and slotted rotors it looks so great that the money was almost worth
it even if they performed less than stock :).
Hope it helps,
>Well Barry,
>
> It just so happens
my wear indicator is screeching at me to replace
>my brakes. I am now
looking to drop a load of change into my brakes. Perhaps
>I CAN serve as a
test setup for the list. What should I buy that is
>somewhere under $1500?
Is it reasonable to assume I can find something
>acceptable in this price
range?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Barry E. King [mailto:beking@home.com]
>Sent: Monday,
April 19, 1999 8:54 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999
>
>I'd love to see an
effective and affordable braking package for our cars
>too. I just
think there are practical limitations which may come to odds
>with
expectations. I also think that the near ideal setup is
already
>available, but I guess it would have to be tested under the
conditions you
>encounter. I know putting together a test setup for
$1000 isn't exactly
>pocket change, but maybe something like this would be
achievable with some
>pulls and tugs here and
there?
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Well, we've heard that the Stillen, Powerslot, and KVR
rotors cannot
survive on our 3800lb beasts under extreme performance
conditions. (Too
bad since I have a pair of KVR awaiting
installation.) That leaves
Porterfield as the last reasonably priced
rotor to test unless anyone
can think of other rotors. I think a pair
of their cross-drilled and
cryogenically treated rotors are about $320.
Mated with a good set of
pads (Pagid?), that would be about $520. If it
holds up to a weekend of
Rich's racing, then it could be a fairly good
inexpensive upgrade.
The next step would be to try the higher priced
rotors. Roger seems
very happy with Bremsa. Are there any others
to consider?
Brad's Porsche/Brembo caliper kit could be used with
any 320mm x 30mm
(??) rotor. The Porterfield and Bremsa rotors could
be good choices.
Brad is also investigating another (secret?) rotor, perhaps
a Porsche?
Do tell Brad ;)
The Stillen Brembo kit just has too many problems --
rotors, bolts.
$2200 for great calipers and mounting brackets seems too
expensive.
The Movit kit looks great but is close to
$3000.
For cooling, maybe someone with a little initiative
& machining
capability could manufacture new backing plates with a
2" nipple for
fastening ductining too. All you'ld have to do is
cut a hole and weld
on a 2-3" piece of pipe that a hose could be clamped
to. That way one
could feed air to the rotors with the plate in
place. Actually it would
be better to determine the best cooling option
by measuring caliper
temperatures with a thermocouple as
follows:
stock, backing plates on, no cooling ducts
backing
plates off, no cooling ducts,
backing plates off with cooling
ducts
special backing plate with attached cooling ducts
For testing,
one might even want to try a water mist nozzel at the front
of the air
duct!
This is a great thread and I hope new, better braking
alternatives can
be found.
--
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 10:39:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999
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> That leaves
> Porterfield as the last
reasonably priced rotor to
> test unless anyone
> can think of other
rotors. I think a pair of their
> cross-drilled and
>
cryogenically treated rotors are about $320.
Hmm.. are you sure that's the correct $ amount?? I
remember paying only
around $250.. or maybe they discounted for me cuz I look
like a
starving, budget racer..
George
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
At 10:27 AM 4/20/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Well,
we've heard that the Stillen, Powerslot, and KVR rotors cannot
>survive on
our 3800lb beasts under extreme performance conditions. (Too
>bad
since I have a pair of KVR awaiting installation.) That
leaves
>Porterfield as the last reasonably priced rotor to test unless
anyone
>can think of other rotors. I think a pair of their
cross-drilled and
>cryogenically treated rotors are about $320.
Mated with a good set of
>pads (Pagid?), that would be about $520.
If it holds up to a weekend of
>Rich's racing, then it could be a fairly
good inexpensive upgrade.
Yes, this is looking like a good solution.
>For cooling, maybe someone with a little initiative
& machining
>capability could manufacture new backing plates with a
2" nipple for
>fastening ductining too. All you'ld have to do
is cut a hole and weld
>on a 2-3" piece of pipe that a hose could be
clamped to. That way one
>could feed air to the rotors with the
plate in place.
Great idea!
>Actually it would
>be better to determine the
best cooling option by measuring caliper
>temperatures with a thermocouple
as follows:
> stock, backing plates on, no cooling ducts
> backing
plates off, no cooling ducts,
> backing plates off with cooling
ducts
> special backing plate with attached cooling ducts
>For
testing, one might even want to try a water mist nozzel at the front
>of
the air duct!
Roger already suggested installing a thermcouple. Where
would be the best
place to attach it? I suspect perhaps on the altered
backing plate, because
it would already be off for welding, and it gets about
as close to the
rotor and caliper as anything else. But where specifically?
Near the
caliper? Away from the cooling duct? Another possibility would be a
small
infrared sensor, because we could point it at any target -- the
rotor,
caliper, or whatever.
At 11:57 AM 4/20/99 -0500, Brad wrote:
>Okay, I
understand that the rotor & hub area separated. On
several
>different rotor assemblies. KVR and Power Slot. >This begs a
couple of
questions.
>
>1. Is the rotor design defective? Meaning
are the cooling holes that
>Mitsubishi designed defective?
These are not Mitsu parts.
>Or is there some problem with the
aftermarket
>castings?
Probably
>2. Could something else be causing the problem? Say
a flexing hub? Worn
>wheel bearing etc? When in a turn, we are
putting a very large load on the
>hub. Could the hub be flexing
enough to break the rotor? If so, what would
>the fix
be?
Both times I broke PowerSlots, I was braking in a
straight line.
But you may be on to something: Topeka is a left hand track,
so most of the
cornering is on the right front, and both times I broke right
front rotors.
OTOH, they both broke in the first session, so we can't blame
it on
excessive wear. The left rotors get considerable strain too, but they
last
the entire weekend.
>
>I refuse to believe that only 3-4 of the
people on this list are the only
>ones generating enough force to shatter
a rotor.
We haven't heard from all the road racers
yet.
Topeka is a road course with lotsa turns. OTOH, the
folks who run in Texas
use the speedway, so they are up on the banks at very
high speeds much of
the time, and have fewer hard-braking turns to deal with.
They do have to
bring 'er down from some very high speeds, but this is
probably easier on
the brakes than a whole bunch of bang-on-the-brakes slow
3rd gear turns.
Last year, when we used the NASCAR B course at Topeka
(same one the trucks
use), the track was mighty easy on my pads, because they
took out many of
the hard-braking turns.
Could their cars have a
>problem not seen by
ordinary check lists?
At least two of us share one problem: Our rear brakes
are not contributing
their fair share of the braking effort.
George Kuo wrote:
>
> --- Ken Middaugh
<middaugh@omega.gat.com>
wrote:
>
> > That leaves
> > Porterfield as the last
reasonably priced rotor to
> > test unless anyone
> > can
think of other rotors. I think a pair of their
> > cross-drilled
and
> > cryogenically treated rotors are about $320.
>
>
Hmm.. are you sure that's the correct $ amount?? I remember paying only
>
around $250.. or maybe they discounted for me cuz I look like a
>
starving, budget racer..
>From memory, I think each rotor is about $70, cross
drilling is $50
each, and cryogenic treatment is $40 each.
--
How many
roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost!
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Track report- Rotor problem
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 13:25:06
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I understand that they are not "Mitsubishi
parts" However the casting is
very similar to Mitsubishi factory
rotor. I suspect the Aftermarket used
Mitsubishi design specs to cast
their parts.
Keep in mind on the KVR rotors. Dave is using the
Porsche/Brembo calipers,
and had about 4 square inches more pad contact than
the stock calipers. The
fact that the KVR rotors broke could be that
the stopping forces exceeded
the design specification.
What If we slotted the stock Mitsubishi rotor?
The rotors can be had for
about 80.00 each, and add 40.00 per for slotting
this is not a bad
alternative. I suspect if we slotted the Mitsu OE
rotors, we would run into
the same problem.
Dave Broke a left hand rotor. Not sure what turn or
track he was going into.
The KVR rotor broke on the 15th lap. I guess
they are 14 laps better than
powerslot <GRIN>
Dave will be running with stock Mitsu rotors this
week. Hopefully those
hold the pressure.
On a different note:
KVR shipped another rotor free of charge. They
want the old rotor back to
check for casting problems. KVR is very
professional, and handled the claim
very efficiently. The
fact that the rotor broke was not taken lightly. I
am sure KVR will
correct the problem if in fact there was one. I suspect
there was just
a defect in the casting.
These are not Mitsu parts.
>Or is there some problem with the
aftermarket
>castings?
Probably
>2. Could something else be causing the problem? Say
a flexing hub? Worn
>wheel bearing etc? When in a turn, we are
putting a very large load on the
>hub. Could the hub be flexing
enough to break the rotor? If so, what
would
>the fix
be?
Both times I broke PowerSlots, I was braking in a
straight line.
But you may be on to something: Topeka is a left hand track,
so most of the
cornering is on the right front, and both times I broke right
front rotors.
OTOH, they both broke in the first session, so we can't blame
it on
excessive wear. The left rotors get considerable strain too, but they
last
the entire weekend.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 12:16:26
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Tue, 20 Apr 1999 13:16:19 -0600
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
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Team3S: Adventures in braking
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Some road race stuff we did in vegas that might be
pertinant for this.
This mod was done on a 96' Mustang Cobra. There
were the two brake air
vents intalled. Installed within the vents was a
sprinkler part of some
sore which was essentially misted the water. It
used very little
watter. It was attached a to a 1 gal milkcontainer of
water. There was
a switch on the steering wheel to toggle of/on the
pump. It was VERY,
VERY effective. Trint was braking Extremely
hard into the turn after
the front straight. With what in his own words
he called "No brake
fade, zero, zip zilch, nothing, not a dang
thing. No shakes, no smoke,
nothing.". He would usually cool
the brakes while under acceleration
across the straights, and have them just
warm for the next turn. When
he came into pit. His brakes were
just, _barely_ warm enough to burn
you. And this with Race pads as
well. There did not appear to be a
real bad problem with warping, I
think that the trick here is not to
cool them to quckly, and too much.
If it were rigged to spray while
under braking, the heat generate would equal
the heat being released,
and the rotor temp wouldn't really drop that
much. BTW it looked really
cool when you could see a little steam out
of all of his brakes. He took
yellow class that day, he was outbraking
everyone, with stock calipers,
stock rotors, and his $15 brake
mod..
another note of interest in europe there is a popular
form of racing,
involving diesel trucks. I don't know if anyone else
has seen this, but
the're brakes are constantly being hit with water.
It has to be
possible.
--
Andrew Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Connections, Inc.
Orem, UT
nyse: GLCO
At 01:16 PM 4/20/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Some road
race stuff we did in vegas that might be pertinant for this.
>This mod was
done on a 96' Mustang Cobra. There were the two brake air
>vents
intalled. Installed within the vents was a sprinkler part of
some
>sore which was essentially misted the water. It used very
little
>watter. It was attached a to a 1 gal milkcontainer of
water. There was
>a switch on the steering wheel to toggle of/on the
pump. It was VERY,
>VERY effective.
Can you tell us more? Like what kind of "sprinkler
part"? What pumped the
water?. Did you buy it as a kit from somewhere or
just cobble it together
out of spare parts?
Trint was braking Extremely hard into the turn
after
>the front straight. With what in his own words he called
"No brake
>fade, zero, zip zilch, nothing, not a dang thing. No
shakes, no smoke,
>nothing.". He would usually cool the brakes
while under acceleration
>across the straights, and have them just warm
for the next turn.
So it was a manually actuated system that he used -- it
seems -- on
straights, probably at higher speeds.
When
>he came into pit. His brakes were
just, _barely_ warm enough to burn
>you. And this with Race pads as
well. There did not appear to be a
>real bad problem with warping, I
think that the trick here is not to
>cool them to quckly, and too
much. If it were rigged to spray while
>under braking, the heat
generate would equal the heat being released,
>and the rotor temp wouldn't
really drop that much.
Ooops. Now I'm confused. Did you rig it up this way, or
are you suggesting
we do this?
BTW it looked really
>cool when you could
see a little steam out of all of his brakes. He took
>yellow class that
day, he was outbraking everyone, with stock calipers,
>stock rotors, and
his $15 brake mod..
Have you run it this way since? Or was this a one-time
mod?
Andrew, thanks for contributing. This is some great
stuff!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>
>What If we slotted the stock Mitsubishi
rotor? The rotors can be had for
>about 80.00 each, and add 40.00
per for slotting this is not a bad
>alternative. I suspect if we
slotted the Mitsu OE rotors, we would run into
>the same
problem.
Don't forget another $50 to heat treat them. Stock
rotors will warp
otherwise.
Now we are back at the Porterfields. I think
I'd trust Porterfield rather
than a local machine shop.
>
>KVR
shipped another rotor free of charge. They want the old rotor back
to
>check for casting problems. KVR is very professional, and
handled the claim
>very efficiently. The fact that the
rotor broke was not taken lightly. I
>am sure KVR will correct the
problem if in fact there was one. I suspect
>there was just a defect
in the casting.
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos? -Reply
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I think this basically proves my point I made a while
back about it not
being feasible to run 11's with stock turbos. Even 100x
more so if the
whole goal is to do it with little cost.
But if you wanna commit to a super-stripped car and
rollcage w/slicks
super-lights wheels all to make 11.99 on stock turbos be my
guest...looks
like it will run you well over $10g's. That would be awesome to
see. But
it certainly seems like their are IMMENSELY more cost effective ways
to
get into the 11s. Perhaps I'm missing the goals though?
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu> 04/19/99
07:42pm >>>
A while back you guys were all debating about
whether
or not a VR4 could run 11's on stock turbos.
Well, if I'm not mistaken, it has already been done
in
Japan by the green Puma GTO N1, a second-gen VR4.
It ran 11.99 in the
400m, and according to its spec sheet
(and Henry Yam) it runs stock turbos
because of the
class it races/raced in. The car is completely
gutted
w/ a rollcage with a total weight of 1460kg (3220lbs),
and it runs
full slicks with about 8 degrees of neg. camber.
That's all for now.
--Errin Humphrey
Yellow VR4
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First off sorry for the poorly written post. I
was on hold with my landlord, while
eating lunch, and writing that
post.
Merritt wrote:
> At 01:16 PM 4/20/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
>Some road race stuff we did in vegas that might be pertinant for
this.
> >This mod was done on a 96' Mustang Cobra. There were the
two brake air
> >vents intalled. Installed within the vents was a
sprinkler part of some
> >sore which was essentially misted the
water. It used very little
> >watter. It was attached a to
a 1 gal milkcontainer of water. There was
> >a switch on the
steering wheel to toggle of/on the pump. It was VERY,
> >VERY
effective.
>
> Can you tell us more? Like what kind of
"sprinkler part"? What pumped the
> water?. Did you buy it as a
kit from somewhere or just cobble it together
> out of spare
parts?
The package I saw for the part was labeled
"Sprinkle Mist" It had a picture of a
dripping wet Strawberry, I
think that was it's intended use. It was a windshield wiper
pump. Trint
worked at a tire shop, so those sorts of things were easy to come by
for
him. Home depot? I know as much as anyone else about his part
selection. I just saw
it in action, and it was impressive.
> Trint was braking Extremely hard into the turn
after
> >the front straight. With what in his own words he called
"No brake
> >fade, zero, zip zilch, nothing, not a dang
thing. No shakes, no smoke,
> >nothing.". He would
usually cool the brakes while under acceleration
> >across the
straights, and have them just warm for the next turn.
>
> So it was
a manually actuated system that he used -- it seems -- on
> straights,
probably at higher speeds.
I think he used then in hopes of a more even
distribution of the water to avoid warping.
> When
> >he came into pit. His
brakes were just, _barely_ warm enough to burn
> >you. And this
with Race pads as well. There did not appear to be a
> >real bad
problem with warping, I think that the trick here is not to
> >cool
them to quckly, and too much. If it were rigged to spray while
>
>under braking, the heat generate would equal the heat being
released,
> >and the rotor temp wouldn't really drop that
much.
>
> Ooops. Now I'm confused. Did you rig it up this way, or
are you suggesting
> we do this?
He rigged it manually actuated.
I am suggesting you could have
solenoid from the brake lights or anything like that,
and we could set it up
to activate under braking. What would be real nice would a
Brake
position sensor, to increase/decrease the flow. Conserve water
under light braking, and
dump large amounts under heavy braking.
> BTW it looked really
> >cool when
you could see a little steam out of all of his brakes. He took
>
>yellow class that day, he was outbraking everyone, with stock
calipers,
> >stock rotors, and his $15 brake mod..
>
> Have
you run it this way since? Or was this a one-time mod?
That was his first race he ran like that. I have
since moved from St. George and I
haven't run with those guys since. I
just tried to get a hold of Trint to ask him more
about his mod. The
company has different owners/employees now so Im not sure how to
track him
down. I have never run like this. But he stomped the entire yellow
class
becuase of his braking ability. he would just go all out on the
straight and pass 3
cars every time, since there was no passing in the turns,
he was unstopable. Sometimes
people would pull on him through the
straight and then start braking for the trun, he
would get two car lenghts
before he even had to start braking. Aparently one of the
guys is
working on a refined version of this for his Shelby Cobra. I will try to
get a
hold of him, and see what he has in store. BTW anybody here know
of a Yellow VR-4 with
ground control springs? Apparently at the some
open track time they went to, there was
a VR-4 rolling over everything in
site... He had ground control springs, and 15g Turbos
raced at Phoenix, on
the 9th. Aparently he lapped a stock NSX-t running in his
class.
--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847
ext: 2961
>
> Can you tell us more? Like what kind
of "sprinkler part"? What pumped the
> water?. Did you buy it as
a kit from somewhere or just cobble it together
> out of spare
parts?
Probably the best nozzel would be one of those fog or
mist types used
for outdoor air cooling. You can find these at Home
Depot, or other
hardware or plumbing stores, or browse sites like
http://cloudburst.com/mistcool.html.
Then you would just need a high pressure, low volume
water pump, a
gallon jug, a switch, and some wire!
A misting system could probably be left on for an
entire track session
to provide constant cooling instead of sudden blast of
cold.
--
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 13:42:01
1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos? -Reply
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:38:27
-0500
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We seem to forget..
The "stock" turbos for the overseas (to the
continental US) are 13g's.
therefore the turbos are quite a bit larger than
the US version turbos. I
suspect the 13g's will produce at least 50hp
more than the 9b's. Which would
be enough to get into the 11's.
I think this basically proves my point I made a while
back about it not
being feasible to run 11's with stock turbos. Even 100x
more so if the
whole goal is to do it with little cost.
But if you wanna commit to a super-stripped car and
rollcage w/slicks
super-lights wheels all to make 11.99 on stock turbos be my
guest...looks
like it will run you well over $10g's. That would be awesome to
see. But
it certainly seems like their are IMMENSELY more cost effective ways
to
get into the 11s. Perhaps I'm missing the goals though?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 13:55:02
1999
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From:
"Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: UPRD Dyno
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 13:53:27 -0700
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OK guys,
As promised, here are the raw results from the
sessions at UPRD's
dyno. I thought I'd forward these to the list to see if
anyone could make
heads or tails of the results. You'll notice that each of
the lines listed
correspond to an MPH that the car was stabilized at by the
dyno. The car was
actually at WOT and trying to accelerate beyond the
specific speeds, but
were being held back by an equalizing force produced by
the dyno. The
equalizing force is presumably what is used to determine the HP
generated at
that MPH.
Please let me know why I may be seeing such low
output. Thanks! Here
ya go.
Dave Allison
************************************
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99, 11:04:55 AM"
Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End
of Each Increment
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison3gt.dat
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH
Ramp Time : 5.0 sec Wait Between
Ramps: 3.0 sec
Ramp Type: Ramp Up
Time Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2
Tach
Road HP Road HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec
lbs. MPH lbs. ft/sec^2
MPH
ft/sec^2 RPM HP
HP
Ft.Lbs HP
MPH
3
401.3 75 827.2
0.4 74.6
0.7
4518.1 165.5 79.9
257.8
221.8
75
8.8 408.4 80.1 841.6
0.2 79.8
0.5
4827 179.9 86.9
262.2
241
80
14.4 419.6 85.1 863.7
0.2 84.8
0.2
5150.2 196.1 94.8
268
262.8
85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99, 11:04:55 AM"
Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End
of Each Increment
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison3gt.dat
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH
Ramp Time : 5.0 sec Wait Between
Ramps: 3.0 sec
Ramp Type: Ramp Up
Time Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2
Tach
Road HP Road HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec
lbs. MPH lbs. ft/sec^2
MPH
ft/sec^2 RPM HP
HP
Ft.Lbs HP
MPH
3
401.3 75 827.2
0.4 74.6
0.7
4518.1 165.5 79.9
257.8
221.8
75
8.8 408.4 80.1 841.6
0.2 79.8
0.5
4827 179.9 86.9
262.2
241
80
14.4 419.6 85.1 863.7
0.2 84.8
0.2
5150.2 196.1 94.8
268
262.8
85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99, 6:13:52 PM"
Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of Each
Increment
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison4gt.dat
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH
Ramp Time : 5.0 sec Wait Between
Ramps: 3.0 sec
Ramp Type: Ramp Up
Time Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2
Tach
Road HP Road HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec
lbs. MPH lbs. ft/sec^2
MPH
ft/sec^2 RPM HP
HP
Ft.Lbs HP
MPH
3
508.3 75.1
1042.60
74.7 0.6
4562.7 208.8
101.3
322
279.7
75
8.8 455.9 80 935.3
0.4 79.6
0.6
2417.4 199.5 96.8
580.8
267.3
80
14.4 428.7 85.1 881.5
0.1 84.8
0.3
5119.5 200.2 96.9
275.2
268.2
85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99, 6:16:26 PM"
Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of Each
Increment
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison5gt.dat
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH
Ramp Time : 5.0 sec Wait Between
Ramps: 3.0 sec
Ramp Type: Ramp Up
Time Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2
Tach
Road HP Road HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec
lbs. MPH lbs. ft/sec^2
MPH
ft/sec^2 RPM HP
HP
Ft.Lbs HP
MPH
3
490.1 74.8
1007.20
74.4 0.2
4514.7 200.9
97.2
313.2
269.2
75
8.8 426.5 80 877.4
0.3 79.6
0.5
4846.5 187.2 90.6
271.9
250.9
80
14.4 462.7 85.2 949.5
0.2 84.8
0.1
5128.2 215.7 104.6
296
289.1
85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99, 6:20:41 PM"
Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of Each
Increment
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison6gt.dat
Start Speed: 85.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 95.0
MPH
Ramp Time : 5.0 sec Wait Between
Ramps: 3.0 sec
Ramp Type: Ramp Up
Time Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2
Tach
Road HP Road HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec
lbs. MPH lbs. ft/sec^2
MPH
ft/sec^2 RPM HP
HP
Ft.Lbs HP
MPH
3
478.5 85 980.7
0.4 84.6
0.2
2567.4 222.3 107.9
609.2
297.8
85
8.8 460.4 90.1 944.6
0 89.7
0
5444.6 226.9 110.1
293.3
304.1
90
14.4 380.2 95 783.2
0 94.6
0.1
2858.5 198.4 95.9
488.5
265.9
95
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 14:11:41
1999
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:12:27 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999 -Reply
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I'm going to stay away from the rest of the post for
the moment because
I'm not experienced enough...although I must say I applaud
you Rich for
trying to get the brakes a more important part in the role of
things. They
are such a short coming...it's too easy to spend less money and
jerry rig
tons of power out of our cars...I'm much more into weight reduction
and
brake solutions. Amen Rich.
But onto my point of this post, ABS. There is an ABS
fuse, just pull it and
enjoy.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 14:14:14
1999
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From:
"Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: UPRD Dyno again...
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 14:12:49
-0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader
does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be
legible.
------_=_NextPart_000_01BE8B72.A1157C28
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset=iso-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
Sorry guys... the last post may have suffered from
formatting problems.
Here's the same results as an attachment. Open in
'Notepad' and disable
'word wrap' to see properly.
BTW, the car is an 1993 3000GT VR-4 with the first 2
tests (11:04:55 AM and
11:04:55 AM) performed in the morning with only an HKS
Powerflo intake and
HKS exhaust.
The last 3 tests (6:13:52 PM, 6:16:26 PM, and 6:20:41
PM) were performed
after installing a boost gauge, EGT probe/gauge, HKS
SSBOV, and running 1
bar of boost.
'Road HP' was upposed to be what is commonly referred
to as wheel
horsepower.
Thanks.
Dave Allison
------_=_NextPart_000_01BE8B72.A1157C28
Content-Location:
ATT-0-F415634755F7D21192CD00805FEDEB10-d yno.txt
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii;
name=dyno.txt
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename=dyno.txt
OK guys,
As promised, here are the raw results from the
sessions at UPRD's =
dyno. I thought I'd forward these to the list to see if
anyone could =
make heads or tails of the results. You'll notice that each of
the =
lines listed correspond to an MPH that the car was stabilized at by the
=
dyno. The car was actually at WOT and trying to accelerate beyond the
=
specific speeds, but were being held back by an equalizing force
=
produced by the dyno. The equalizing force is presumably what is used
=
to determine the HP generated at that MPH.
Please let me know why I may be seeing such low
output. Thanks! Here =
ya go.
Dave Allison
************************************
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
=
=09
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99,
11:04:55 AM" Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of =
Each
Increment =09
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison3gt.dat
=09
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH =09
Ramp Time
: 5.0 sec Wait Between Ramps: 3.0
sec =09
Ramp
Type: Ramp
Up =09
Time
Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2 Tach Road HP Road
=
HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec lbs. MPH lbs.
ft/sec^2 MPH ft/sec^2 RPM
HP
HP
=
Ft.Lbs
HP MPH
3 401.3 75 827.2
0.4 74.6
0.7 4518.1
165.5
=
79.9
257.8
221.8 75
8.8 408.4 80.1 841.6
0.2 79.8
0.5 4827
179.9
=
86.9
262.2
241 80
14.4 419.6 85.1 863.7
0.2 84.8
0.2 5150.2
196.1 =
94.8
268
262.8 85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
=
=09
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99,
11:04:55 AM" Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of =
Each
Increment =09
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison3gt.dat
=09
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH =09
Ramp Time
: 5.0 sec Wait Between Ramps: 3.0
sec =09
Ramp
Type: Ramp
Up =09
Time
Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2 Tach Road HP Road
=
HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec lbs. MPH lbs.
ft/sec^2 MPH ft/sec^2 RPM
HP
HP
=
Ft.Lbs
HP MPH
3 401.3 75
827.2 0.4 74.6
0.7 4518.1
165.5
=
79.9
257.8
221.8 75
8.8 408.4 80.1 841.6
0.2 79.8
0.5 4827
179.9
=
86.9
262.2
241 80
14.4 419.6 85.1 863.7
0.2 84.8
0.2 5150.2
196.1 =
94.8
268
262.8 85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
=
=09
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99,
6:13:52 PM" Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of =
Each
Increment =09
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison4gt.dat
=09
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH =09
Ramp Time
: 5.0 sec Wait Between Ramps: 3.0
sec =09
Ramp
Type: Ramp
Up =09
Time
Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2 Tach Road HP Road
=
HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec lbs. MPH lbs.
ft/sec^2 MPH ft/sec^2 RPM
HP
HP
=
Ft.Lbs
HP MPH
3 508.3 75.1
1042.6
0
74.7 0.6
4562.7 208.8 =
101.3
322
279.7 75
8.8 455.9 80 935.3
0.4 79.6
0.6 2417.4
199.5
=
96.8
580.8
267.3 80
14.4 428.7 85.1
881.5 0.1 84.8
0.3 5119.5
200.2 =
96.9
275.2
268.2 85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
=
=09
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99,
6:16:26 PM" Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of =
Each
Increment =09
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison5gt.dat
=09
Start Speed: 75.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 85.0
MPH =09
Ramp Time
: 5.0 sec Wait Between Ramps: 3.0
sec =09
Ramp
Type: Ramp
Up =09
Time
Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2 Tach Road HP Road
=
HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec lbs. MPH lbs.
ft/sec^2 MPH ft/sec^2 RPM
HP
HP
=
Ft.Lbs
HP MPH
3 490.1 74.8
1007.2 0 74.4
0.2 4514.7
200.9
=
97.2
313.2
269.2 75
8.8 426.5 80 877.4
0.3 79.6
0.5 4846.5
187.2
=
90.6
271.9
250.9 80
14.4 462.7 85.2
949.5 0.2 84.8
0.1 5128.2
215.7 =
104.6
296
289.1 85
Test Type: Power Curve Sweep Test/Diesel Lug Down
Test User Name:
=
=09
"Test Start Time: 4/10/99,
6:20:41 PM" Log Rate: Pt. Saved At End of =
Each
Increment =09
Data Filepath:
C:\vtt\Data\allison6gt.dat
=09
Start Speed: 85.0 MPH Maximum Speed: 95.0
MPH =09
Ramp Time
: 5.0 sec Wait Between Ramps: 3.0
sec =09
Ramp
Type: Ramp
Up =09
Time
Force 2 Speed Force PIDAccel Speed 2 PIDAccel2 Tach Road HP Road
=
HP 2 Eng Torque(Corr) Eng Power(Corr) MPHpoint
sec lbs. MPH lbs.
ft/sec^2 MPH ft/sec^2 RPM
HP
HP
=
Ft.Lbs
HP MPH
3 478.5 85 980.7
0.4 84.6
0.2 2567.4
222.3
=
107.9
609.2
297.8 85
8.8 460.4 90.1 944.6
0 89.7
0 5444.6
226.9
=
110.1
293.3
304.1 90
14.4 380.2 95 783.2
0 94.6
0.1 2858.5
198.4
=
95.9
488.5
265.9 95
------_=_NextPart_000_01BE8B72.A1157C28--
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 14:24:31
1999
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:24:54 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Total brake solution!
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Heh...yeah right...BUT a step to get
there.
or get 3si.com or 3000gt.com to put up a
page.
We need to organize this.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 14:48:01
1999
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:33:33 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999 -Reply
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Pictures please. BTW- what is the total cost of the
bremsa setup again?
Gavin
>>> "Mikael_Åkesson" <vr4@bahnhof.se> 04/20/99 01:12pm
>>>
Ohhh I almost forgot... I polished my callipers so they look
like crome and with the open design on my rims and the blue anodized hubs and
drilled and slotted rotors it looks so great that the money was almost worth it
even if they performed less than stock :).
Hope it helps,
>Well Barry,
>
> It just so happens
my wear indicator is screeching at me to replace
>my brakes. I am now
looking to drop a load of change into my brakes. Perhaps
>I CAN serve as a
test setup for the list. What should I buy that is
>somewhere under $1500?
Is it reasonable to assume I can find something
>acceptable in this price
range?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave
>
>-----Original
Message-----
>From: Barry E. King [mailto:beking@home.com]
>Sent: Monday,
April 19, 1999 8:54 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Adventures in braking-1999
>
>I'd love to see an
effective and affordable braking package for our cars
>too. I just
think there are practical limitations which may come to odds
>with
expectations. I also think that the near ideal setup is
already
>available, but I guess it would have to be tested under the
conditions you
>encounter. I know putting together a test setup for
$1000 isn't exactly
>pocket change, but maybe something like this would be
achievable with some
>pulls and tugs here and
there?
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 15:09:12
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:54:44 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Another Brake ABS comment
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This came accross the starnet.net
list...interesting...
I am not sure I understand your problem with ABS.
ABS is an
asset not a liablity, and this is especially true with sports cars.
There is
not one high end sports car or sedan out their without it. Ferrari
to
Porsche, Mercedes to Cadillac, 3000GT to Supra, Corvette to Viper
all
have ABS, and for good reason - lockup. Even in racing, cars with
ABS
will routinely outbrake and out-maneuver non-ABS cars - look at
the
formulas that allowed and then outlawed ABS braking for this
reason
(Formula One, CART/Champ Car, NASCAR). Of course, there is such
a
thing as crappy braking systems with crappy ABS to boot, but this
is
another issue. When a car has a high-performance, ABS system, it is
an
asset!
At Skip Barber and Bob Bondurant racing school,
ABS-equipped
"civilian" cars are disconnected to force instability
and adverse handling
- to see how students will drive in adverse
handling conditions. That
Sunfire you drove surely had a problem with its
overall braking system
not just ABS.
- Yasuna
Murakami
> Roger already suggested installing a thermcouple.
Where would be the best
> place to attach it?
Some pad manufacturers offers pads with a thermocouple
attached in between the
pad surface (in the small slot). They are using a
standard $15 K-type probe that
can easy attached to a meter. The biggest
temperature will occur there, very
close to the surfaces that touch each
others.
> caliper? Away from the cooling duct? Another
possibility would be a small
> infrared sensor, because we could point it
at any target -- the rotor,
> caliper, or whatever.
An infrared-sensor is a very good idea but to mount it
is not easy.
One idea for a thermocouple could be the pad-bolts or
the spring plate. The
later is very close to the heat surface and is maybe a
good idea. I'd also place
a probe to one end of the brake line to see the
rise of the temp in or at the
lines.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 15:16:16
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Re: Team3S: UPRD Dyno again...
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> Here's the same results as an attachment. Open in
'Notepad' and disable
> 'word wrap' to see properly.
Ok, I had a look at it but I must say ... I can't do
anything with these values.
As the engine power is already corrected I can't
see any figure that makes sense
to me but the rpm. Especially the 1000lbs of
force is a great and nice figure
but what the hell does this mean. Also the
first two ones are absolutely the
same and this is almost inpossible. Are you
sure that the timestamp is not the
print time ?
Going up to 5150 rpm or so is too low as the peak is
around 5600 to 6000 on our
cars.
> 'Road HP' was upposed to be what is commonly
referred to as wheel
> horsepower.
I don't understand this stuff. Look at our power curve
and you see that there is
a real difference between 4500 and 5200. The first
two makes sense but not the
others. These are just not enough information to
say what's going on here.
Especially not this rpm band as the detonation area
starts at 5450 to about
5700.
I'm sorry to sound negative but the figures are not of
any help. You cannot see
anything and you're much more confused than at any
time before. Have them learn
to use their stuff by giving them a printout of
our dynosheets. Say that you
expect something like this and get another
session for free as they used you as
a "Guinea pig".
Regards,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Merritt wrote:
> Roger already suggested installing a thermcouple.
Where would be the best
> place to attach it? I suspect perhaps on the
altered backing plate, because
> it would already be off for welding, and
it gets about as close to the
> rotor and caliper as anything else. But
where specifically? Near the
> caliper? Away from the cooling duct?
Another possibility would be a small
> infrared sensor, because we could
point it at any target -- the rotor,
> caliper, or whatever.
Infrared would be expensive and near impossible to get
reliable "real time" data. The
popular choice is to insert a
thermocouple on the back side of the brake pad. A small
"V"
may need to be cut into the pad or caliper piston depending on where you place
it.
I've seen this done at DaimlerChrysler and on Dodge Viper race prepped
cars. A driver
can watch temps during the race and with experience
learn when he/she needs to conserve
brakes (hot). If you want
consistent results, you must position the thermocouple in the
same location
each time. The deeper (drilling into the pad) you go, the more
accurate
and less time delay the readouts will be. However, the sooner
you destroy your
thermocouple as the pad wears.
Our World Challenge Vipers also used a water injection
setup (already mentioned). The
cons to this system
include:
1) additional weight (in 45 minutes of racing, we
would go through as much as 4 gallons
of water). Because SCCA weighs
podium finishers at end of race to make sure you're
legal, we'd have to race
overweight (gas and water) hoping to stay legal by end of race.
2) injectors plug easily (use distilled water and
purge with alcohol before storing)
3) cracked several rotors (cannot guarantee this
was due entirely to water injection
though)
Because of the above three reasons, we ditched the
system for some of the races.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 RT/TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 15:54:17
1999
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From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
To:
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Subject:
Team3S: For Sale(DSBC, timer ect.)
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:02:46
-0600
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Hello all,
I am selling my 93 VR4 so I have a few
mods and spare parts for sale. Buyer
pays shipping.
Blitz DSBC(dual solenoid boost controller)
$375
Blitz FATT(full auto turbo timer) $100 with harness
K&N FIPK(cone
filter kit) $70
Test pipe(replaces main cat) $30
Or all above for $550, which includes a modified center
vent that the DSBC
and timer mount in the left side(fits all
models)
Factory clutch(brand new disc, bearing and cover)
$200
Factory bra(91-93 models only) $80
Spare (93 directional)17X8.5 wheel
with 255/40ZR17 BFG Comp tire $125
All mods were put on about two months ago and are in
excellent condition. I
am in SLC, Utah. 801-553-7289
Thanks,
Paul Horschel
Roger Gerl wrote:
> Unfortunately, the stock O2 sensors act somewhat
digital, rich or lean and they
> do not have a large
"hysteresis" area.
>
> To tune in our cars properly it
would be interesting to know how much rich or
> how much lean the setting
is. Fore this a good O2 wideband sensor together with
> an A/F meter would
be very helpful.
>
> I know Autometer is offering one as well as
Bosch but does anyone know if these
> are widebands and what the sensors
usually cost ?
>
> BTW, the ECU should not have any problem with
them.
>
Wide range O2's are the best answer to dialing in a
car. Unfortunately they are
expensive and usually cumbersome to
use. That is, you don't get a direct A/F ratio but
instead a number,
voltage, that you need to then look up in an appropriate table.
I
understand that Bosch has a sensor with software to support it at ~
$1,000. Wide range
O2's are easy to spot because they will have as many
as seven wires coming from them
(not just two). For this reason, I
believe it would be difficult to use one with our
ECU. I think the wide
range O2 system would have to be a "stand alone" system
independent
of the stock O2's. Some production cars (European) use wide range O2's
in
production but are not easily adapted to our application since all
processing is done in
their respective ECU.
I'm interested in a wide range and will be seeking more
information. Please don't take
the above excerpt as gospel. It is
simply what I've heard from co-workers and may not
be all that
accurate. I'll share more information as I get it.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 RT/TT
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 16:19:41
1999
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 18:20:01
-0500
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Chrome Exhaust Tips
To: Stealth-3000 <Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Message-id:
<000101be8b84$52011860$a9293ea6@u7qms>
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Hi I"am still looking for exhaust tips for my
stealth i need two of them.
Dustin Poos can you send me your private E-Mail
address if you have the ones
for sale that you wrote to me on the list about.
Also can anyone tell me if
the mitusbishi tips on cars are the same in the
years produced as my 1992
Dodge Stealth Rt.
At 05:12 PM 4/20/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm going
to stay away from the rest of the post for the moment because
>I'm not
experienced enough...although I must say I applaud you Rich for
>trying to
get the brakes a more important part in the role of things.
Gee, thanks. But this isn't for the benefit of the
group.
It's for ME! I need better brakes!
And I'll stop at nothing to
get what I want!
Oops.
I didn't mean that.
> Have you tried the Porterfield rotors? As I
understand it, they are stock
> rotors that have been heat treated, then
drilled.
If they are heat treated then they have been drilled
first as the tool would
have problems :) But they are mostly cinc plated and
not hardened.
All crossdrilled rotors with the drills made after
their production are tending
to crack. This is why such rotors are forbidden
in some european countries. To
prevent this, good ( and expensive) rotors are
made with the holes already in
there. They are then only crossdrilled again
to make them a good inner surface
but do not weaken the
structure.
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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Subject:
Team3S: Another Brake ABS comment -Reply
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** High Priority **
Hmmmm....Interesting....
<Even in racing, cars with ABS
will routinely
outbrake and out-maneuver non-ABS cars>
Not exactly. I remember a special on TNN motorsports,
where Emerson
Fittapaldi drove an AWD Talon Tsi (my old car) on a road
course, with
ABS engaged and disengaged. In all actuallity, he had a
slight
advantage when ABS was turned off! (Most racers know
threshold
braking, and would rather "drive" their cars, than have
it drive
them).
At any rate, ABS is a great safety feature, although
I'm not too sure
I'd rely on it at the track, under extreme circumstances.
<There is
not one high end sports car or sedan
out their without it. Ferrari to
Porsche, Mercedes to Cadillac, 3000GT to
Supra, Corvette to Viper all
have ABS, and for good reason -
lockup>
BTW, I thought the Viper didn't have ABS equipped
brakes...Off topic,
I know, but nonetheless, not ALL sports cars come
equipped with ABS.
>Our World Challenge Vipers also used a water
injection setup <snip> we
ditched the system for some of the
races.
>
OK, but how did it work when you DID use it?
I know for a fact also that the McLaren F1 opted _not_
to have ABS. There was an artile
about it that said they resaoned that
experienced drivers were better off without it.
Dan Jett wrote:
> ** High Priority **
>
>
Hmmmm....Interesting....
>
> <Even in racing, cars with
ABS
> will routinely outbrake and out-maneuver non-ABS
cars>
>
> Not exactly. I remember a special on TNN motorsports,
where Emerson
> Fittapaldi drove an AWD Talon Tsi (my old car) on a road
course, with
> ABS engaged and disengaged. In all actuallity, he had a
slight
> advantage when ABS was turned off! (Most racers know
threshold
> braking, and would rather "drive" their cars, than
have it drive
> them).
>
> At any rate, ABS is a great safety
feature, although I'm not too sure
> I'd rely on it at the track, under
extreme circumstances.
>
> <There is
> not one high end
sports car or sedan out their without it. Ferrari to
> Porsche, Mercedes
to Cadillac, 3000GT to Supra, Corvette to Viper all
> have ABS, and for
good reason - lockup>
>
> BTW, I thought the Viper didn't have
ABS equipped brakes...Off topic,
> I know, but nonetheless, not ALL sports
cars come equipped with ABS.
>
> Dan Jett
> 92 Stealth
TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
--
Andrew Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Connections, Inc.
Orem, UT
nyse: GLCO
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From:
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: VR4 spare
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 20:18:50 -0400
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Try a salvage yard they should have one.
Andy
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 18:31:25
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Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 18:31:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Chrome Exhaust Tips
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--- Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com> wrote:
> Hi
I"am still looking for exhaust tips for my
> stealth i need two of
them.
> Dustin Poos can you send me your private E-Mail
> address if
you have the ones
> for sale that you wrote to me on the list
about.
> Also can anyone tell me if
> the mitusbishi tips on cars
are the same in the
> years produced as my 1992
> Dodge Stealth
Rt.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 18:41:22
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Date:
Tue, 20 Apr 1999 21:39:16 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Chrome Exhaust Tips
To:
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hey bro if you want some fat tips I'd go borla,
pacesetter, or monza big
bore. If you want the stock look I am getting
a new exhaust on my 91 ES soon
(hopefully). Keep in touch w/ me and
i'll try the same.
Dan
91 ES
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
OK Gang, another question
Has anyone installed aftermarket injectors on an OBDII
VR4/TTStealth ?
The reason I asked this is because when I did the
rebuild on my Blown 97 Formula
( which had the OBDII software ) I went
through hell until I went to a 95 computer that
was a none OBDII setup.
It
seems the changing of a cam and injectors caused the OBDII computer the foul
the
plugs in under 10 miles of driving ( it made the car run EXTREMELY RICH,
no matter what
u did to it )
I really don't want to go through this again with this
car :o(
Irving
96 VR4 . . . . what happened to "
Its Going To Stay Stock :o) "
Merritt wrote:
> >Our World Challenge Vipers also used a water
injection setup <snip> we
> ditched the system for some of the
races.
> >
> OK, but how did it work when you DID use
it?
>
Our cars (#31 Neil Hannemann & #3 Bobby Archer)
didn't experience fade with the
injection but many times didn't need
it. It should be noted that our system squirted a
direct spray onto the
rotor, not the upstream mist some have described. Our system was
very
similar to what the Trans Am cars use (orifice was hard mounted to the
lower
control arm).
Another comment that many of you may disagree
with. When we swapped to steel braided
brake hoses, we found the brake
fluid would boil quicker (better conductor than the
stock rubber hoses) and
realized worse braking performance. We had to insulate the
steel brake
hose to regain and then improve the stock performance. In fact we also
had
to insulate the ball joints (or we'd melt the rubber boot that holds the
grease).
For those interested, our Viper's (unlike all other
cars in World Challenge) had to
maintain stock weight. To equalize the
field, the Saleen Mustangs, Vettes, Porsches,
NSXs, etc understandably were
allowed to drop weight, modify engines, and at least use
stock size of larger
tires (none of which are granted to the Viper). So we did work
the
brakes hard, Oh and contrary to an earlier report, the Viper does not
come with ABS.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 RT/TT
At 05:02 PM 4/20/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Test pipe(replaces main cat) $30
I will take the test pipe if it is not already
sold.
Let me know where to send the check.
Shawn Dewey
620 Carriage Lane
Dover, DE
19901-6233
H 302-697-1008
W 888-633-9800 x4415
-shawn
dewey
'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy
hands of a new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91 Talon TSI AWD
13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car
(SSC class)
'81 Mazda RX7 GSL Spec RX7
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Joe W. writes:
>Our cars didn't experience fade with
the
>injection but many times didn't need it. ...our system squirted
a
>direct spray onto the rotor, not the upstream mist some
have
described...very similar to what the Trans Am cars use (orifice was
hard
mounted to the lower
>control arm).
>
>Another comment
that many of you may disagree with. When we swapped to
steel
braided
>brake hoses, we found the brake fluid would boil quicker (better
conductor
than the
>stock rubber hoses) and realized worse braking
performance. We had to
insulate the
>steel brake hose to regain
and then improve the stock performance.
Boy, the stuff you learn on this list!
Is this great
or what?
It gives one hope that there really is a solution
lurking out there.
Rich/old poop
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 19:44:22
1999
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Date:
Tue, 20 Apr 1999 22:02:41 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos?
-Reply
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<< We seem to forget..
The
"stock" turbos for the overseas (to the continental US) are
13g's.
therefore the turbos are quite a bit larger than the US version
turbos. I
suspect the 13g's will produce at least 50hp more than
the 9b's. Which would
be enough to get into the
11's.
> Brad
Check out my home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>>
Hey Brad.
You wouldn't know anything about running high 11's with
stock turbos would
ya?? I mean you could only go 11.9 with 15G's...
EMBARRASSING!
>From what I've experienced on friends cars, 550cc
injectors should not
mess with OBD2. They however will need either
an AFC piggyback fuel
computer, or reprogramed ECU's to control the
bigger injectors.
Del
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Apr 20 23:39:25
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Date:
Tue, 20 Apr 1999 23:38:23 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos?
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Brad Bedell wrote:
> We seem to forget..
>
> The
"stock" turbos for the overseas (to the continental US) are
13g's.
> therefore the turbos are quite a bit larger than the US version
turbos. I
> suspect the 13g's will produce at least 50hp more than
the 9b's. Which would
> be enough to get into the 11's.
Actually, Brad, the only thing that we have confirmed
is that
the stock turbos in ~European~ GTO's are 13G's. This
turbo
size seems to be appopriate for the high-speed freeways like
the
German Autobahn. No no to the best of my knowledge
has confirmed that
there are 13G's in the Japanese-spec GTO.
And furthermore, I have good reason to believe that the
Jap-spec
GTO's might not be 13G's. The Toyota Supra in Japan
comes
with much smaller turbos and 440cc injectors as compared to
the
US-spec Supra which has bigger turbos and 550cc injectors (I
won't
bother looking up the different names for the turbos, but I'm
pretty sure
they are both made by Hitachi). This allows them to
keep the horsepower
to 279 since (as I'm sure you know) cars sold
in Japan which claim more than
280hp are heavily taxed by the
government. Since the GTO in Japan also
claims 279 hp, I would
find it hard to believe that they would put ~smaller~
turbos (9B)
in their US-spec 3000GT in order to claim 320hp like the
Supra
does. If anything, their turbos might even be smaller than the
9B's.
Also, all Japanese GTO's that I have seen running stock
in the
400m have run mid to high 13's, similar to our US-spec 3000GT.
A
3000GT with 13G's should be able to easily pull 12's bone stock.
BTW, Gavin Wallis mentioned that it is pointless to
make a stock
turbo'd 3000GT run 11's b/c it would cost $10k to gut it and
put
slicks and a rollcage on it. I don't think so, especially since
a
rollcage isn't even necessary. $10k?!! Last time I checked,
gutting
out a car doesn't cost hardly anything at all. Wheels aren't
totally
necessary, and even if someone goes for them you're still
only
talking about a couple grand for 17's.
--Errin Humphrey
Yellow VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 01:10:57
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Date:
Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:27:09 +0200
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos? -Reply
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> The "stock" turbos for the overseas (to
the continental US) are 13g's.
> therefore the turbos are quite a bit
larger than the US version turbos. I
> suspect the 13g's will
produce at least 50hp more than the 9b's. Which would
> be enough to get
into the 11's.
No, no way, look again at our dyno sessions and you'll
see a bigger power in the
mid-band and more tourque. The torque then helps to
get a faster 1/4 mile time
but no hp. If I had done the dyno with summer
tires (I was too stupid and we
almost glow up the winter tires) then the
results would show a better power
holding in the higher area. but that's it.
Also I don't think the 13 is really
bigger but it has a different design of
the compressor wheel.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT with 13G
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 01:11:13
1999
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Wed, 21 Apr 1999 09:37:49 +0200
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: For Sale(Moderator message)
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Remember,
Never ever reply to sale posts on the list ! Always use
the private email
address of the poster when interested.
Also, everybody who writes an add like this please
insert a small sentence at
the end that remainds the people to send further
emails privately.
Thanks,
Roger and the Moderators
Shawn Dewey wrote:
>
> At 05:02 PM
4/20/99 -0600, you wrote:
>
> >Test pipe(replaces main cat)
$30
>
> I will take the test pipe if it is not already
sold.
> Let me know where to send the check.
> The Toyota Supra in Japan comes with much smaller
turbos and 440cc injectors
> as compared to the US-spec Supra which has
bigger turbos and 550cc injectors
A little off 3000GT but informal :
The EU Supras have 550cc too, and when speaking of the
Supra TT then they are
using a sequential Turbo system with some gates in the
exhaust and intake tract
and different sized turbos. No comparison to our
system possible.
> hard to believe that they would put ~smaller~
turbos (9B)
> in their US-spec 3000GT in order to claim 320hp like the
Supra
We have 284 DIN hp here, every year. But this is
because our stock cars have
0.45-0.6 bars of boost stock. No differences over
the years. I think Mitsu did
this to keep the power below 300hp as some
Cantons in Switzerland as well as
other countries use a tax-system that looks
for the hp of the cars. Furthermore,
the less boost the better the milage and
the better the result in tests :)
Interestingly, my milage went up after
increasing boost ;-)
> A 3000GT with 13G's should be able to easily pull
12's bone stock.
No way, the bigger torque in the midrange is eaten up
by the more lag. The 2nd
Gen EU car is better due to the 6 speed but lag can
still be felt.
> BTW, Gavin Wallis mentioned that it is pointless
to make a stock
> turbo'd 3000GT run 11's b/c it would cost $10k to gut it
and put
> slicks and a rollcage on it.
It depends on the rules. I learned from people that
when dialing in and you give
em a low 12 they only allow you to run with a
roll cage installed. But you are
right, I think high 11s are possible with
less than 10k.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT ... low 13s
>
Since UPRD was not able(willing?) to install my Magnecore wires and
> NGK
plugs, I have not yet gapped my plugs to the proper setting. I DO notice
>
stumbling when at WOT, but I'm curious if the misfiring is actually
causing
> harm to my engine. Other than the obvious performance impact, am
I damaging
> anything by running like a bat outta hell without gapping the
plugs?
Yes and no. This because the missfires can cause
detonation but also activates
the knock monitor that finally retards the
timing. The stumbeling you feel is
around 5400 - 5700 where the most
power/torque is generated and that's
definitely the timing that gets
retarded.
I'd avoid running further WOT until the plugs/wires are
installed and the setup
is ok. With the help of some of us you can do the job
in 2 hours with normal
tools by yourself (Mike Ch. did them on a hot engine
and did not get a retarded
timing again on the second dyno
session)
> >From what I've experienced on friends cars,
550cc injectors should not
> mess with OBD2. They however will need
either an AFC piggyback fuel
> computer, or reprogramed ECU's to
control the bigger injectors.
Del is absolutely right. Use an AFC to tweak the ECU
and to tune in the proper
fuel delivery or get the ECU modified ($$$). There
is also a good AF computer
from Field that includes A/F meter and a G-Tech
function ! The Supra guys love
it :)
Regards,
Roger
BTW, The Z28 can use only slightly bigger injectors and
you have to use an AFPR
to make it proper running. But the best results were
achieved with a
reprogrammed ECU for sure (1.6 RR, LT4 cam)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
At 09:37 AM 4/21/99 +0200, you
wrote:
>Remember,
>
>Never ever reply to sale posts on the
list ! Always use the private email
>address of the poster when
interested.
>
>Also, everybody who writes an add like this please
insert a small sentence at
>the end that remainds the people to send
further emails privately.
>
>Thanks,
>Roger and the
Moderators
Sorry my goof the message was already out of the
gate before I saw where it
went.
I had ment to reply
privately.
Thanks for the reminder.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 04:03:45
1999
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Team3S: Re: ABS vs NonABS
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Shane Thoms wrote:
> coefficient of friction is higher when two objects
have no relative motion
> (tire and pavement)
> than when they are
sliding. (relative velocity)
> 'perfect' ABS system would stop car in
shortest distance by keeping tires from
> sliding
>
> >If
didn't have ABS could stopfaster cause can lock wheels.
> >locking
wheels stops faster than ABS.
The friction available/coefficient of a rubber auto
tire-to-pavement surface is a
special circumstance.
It is HIGHER than
static. The greatest traction is at a certain percentage of
SLIP, I
think around
2-4%. This is called "incipient slide".
The reason for this is that it is NOT
simply the coefficient
of friction
between rubber tire and pavement! A significant part of total
traction
available involves
the SHEARING-OFF/grabbing the rubber of the tire by the
road. RUBBER tires press
down onto
the pavement but they also FIT
INTO the very small surface irregularities of
asphalt/concrete, sort
of
forming a "lock and key" with the surface. To cause THIS
relationship to slip
therefore involves
not just coefficient of friction
but the shearing of the rubber FITTED down into
the grooves in
the
road. To do THIS you need MORE force than the simple
coefficient-derived amount,
you actually
slide the tire some at maximum,
shearing rubber off in process. This is
"incipient slide",
where
there is a small but measurable SLIP at maximum
braking/cornering. This is also
reflected some in
graphs of steering
wheel angle vs. lateral G-force obtained in cornering. As you
turn
steering
wheel, cornering G's increase up to a POINT, and beyond that
steering wheel angle
G-force
decreases because the tire is now sliding TOO
much.
A properly designed and properly performing ABS system
will beat attempts at
threshold
braking in the long haul. An
improperly performing ABS system can be bad.
An expert driver (?Busta?) may
be able to equal or occasionally outdo an average
ABS
system in a
controlled test...but lap after lap, in the face of VARYING
amounts
of
brake fade/performance, having a computer DEDICATED to assuring
optimum
slip amounts at each wheel is best. It will save spinouts as
fronts heat and
rears
maintain braking action. It can be somewhat
forgotten about so one can
concentrate one's
LIMITED attention span on
track, cornering, other cars, combatting fatigue.
As it says in "A Twist of the Wrist", a
motorcycle roadracing book, if you have
$10 worth of attention to
"spend" on track, where do you choose to spend it?
If you have to
spend $5 to do accurate threshold braking at every corner, and
adjust for
fade etc, while I can just barrel on in and slam the brakes letting
ABS do
the job CONSISTENTLY (remember? the key?) eventually
I will pass
you because you will spin or being human (right?!) and imperfect
you
will NOT be perfect and will be incapable of perfect full-on
threshold
braking
sometimes.
Do you know WHY Formula 1 banned ABS? Because
teams WANTED IT,
because it was BETTER. Formula 1 does NOT ban
wooden-spoked wheels--
know why? Because NO ONE WANTS THEM so they don't NEED
a rule
against them! like they DO need one against ABS (and AWD,
by the way--another
technology banned due to superiority...and like turbos in
many classes of
racing.)
If you want to compare tested braking in a straight
line with no
stress/racing/fatigue
then people MAY be around as good as
ABS, setting the test up as tilted
against ABS as possible. For lap
after lap real world, with a good ABS system,
step aside or spin aside,
either way. News flash: Michael Schumacher, NONE
of us
are. ABS in OUR cars may not be "Michael Schumacher in a
Box", but
they ARE Mario Andretti in a box, and that is PLENTY better
than ANY of us...
Jack Tertadian
BTW, Car and Driver did a test of Threshold Braking vs.
just JAMMING on NON-
ABS brakes=locking up tires, YEARS ago. It proved
that
jamming on brakes max at the instant one sees a need to stop maximally
(like
a deer in the road) people are best off SLAMMING on brakes and
sliding
tires than "threshold braking" because the relatively
slower application of
brakes required to approach-and-not-exceed threshold
COSTS braking
distance that overall is NOT gained back by the somewhat
superior G-force
EVENTUALLY obtained by proper threshold brake
technique.
George Kuo wrote:
I was very
disappointed
> I complained to Stillen/Brembo. They
told me 'this is
> not unusual, cross-drill rotors crack.. race cars go
through rotors
> everyday.. and you had 4 weekends out of
them'... =(
> George '92 RT TT
I have had Stillen Brembo upgrade since around
1996. I specifically bought the
NONcrossdrilled, NONslotted rotors
because of the propensity toward cracking
that I know such to have.
Mine have never cracked beyond the small superficial
patina one can sometimes
see. They have finally warped some, and need to be
turned...after
several driving schools. The Pagid Blue pads wear like IRON
(last a
LONG time) but coefficient of friction seems less than Porterfield R4,
which
wear faster.
It seems we need a heirarchy of braking systems
available to our cars, from best to
least, and cost/features of each. I
will start one, everybody else can modify it, add
brands, change order, it is
just a start based on my limited knowledge, off top of head
(NOT researched, please correct errors, Roger and Brad
et al!) (Brad I don't know
if yours or Bremsa is better, let's hash this out
to the best of our ability!)
PAD SIZE is important, if can get this
info--great! One reason my Stillen/Brembos
are so much better than
stock is the PADS are way longer/wider/THICKER...
>From best to "worst":
Front
Brakes
Brand
size
cost
special
features/Questions
1) AP
Racing 14" 6-piston
system ?$6000 WHERE to get, KVR? is
bolton?
2)
Bremsa
12.6"
(322mm)
?$ Aluminum hats
?Brembo
caliper
3) Brad
Bedell 12.6"
(322mm)
$1500 Steel hats, Brembo caliper
4)
Stillen/Brembo
12.2"
$2000 Steel hats Braided
lines
5) ?Baer
Racing
?
? No idea/should
be
called!
6)
?MovIt
?
? No Idea, is
it
BOLTON?
6) Mitsubishi 94+
12.1"
boneyard cheap better than 91-93
7) Mitsubishi
91-93
11.2"
" cheap
Rear Brakes:
1)
Bremsa
?size
?cost Roger mentioned
them;
details?
2)
94+
?size dual piston
cheap bigger than 91-93
3)
91-93
?10.1" single piston cheap
Brake pads: (This may just be a list of
features/experiences, there is balance between
longevity, friction,
dust--which do YOU choose as most important etc?
1) Pagid
Blue
last LONG, moderate dust, expensive, average
friction
2) Porterfield
R4
last shorter, alot of nasty dust, brake great/high
friction
3)
Performance Friction Z last long, mod. dust, mod. friction (I
didn't RACE these)
3) Mitsu Stock
91-93 Not
Recommended For Roadracing; little dust though
I do not trust crossdrilled rotors yet, nor do I NOW
trust slotted rotors based on the
catastrophic failures suffered in use--you
FIRST need to be able to TRUST your
brakes, at LEAST that they won't explode
on you...
Hope this is useful as a starter list!
Add/modify/change away! Call places, get info!
Jack Tertadian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 04:54:23
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Date:
Wed, 21 Apr 1999 18:53:49 -0500
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
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Team3S: Brake List Columns!
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WHY did that last message show up crappy? I had
all the columns closely
spaced yet in order, not with 30 spaces between words
and scattergrammed
all over the place. Others have had theirs this way
too, it is annoying
and a detriment to our list! Maybe someone can help
us on this to avoid
problems in future? This is not a car topic but
does impact on the
quality of list messages. Sorry to those who think
it unimportant.
Jack Tertadian
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 07:31:20
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos? -Reply
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 07:31:33
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The "13" of the 13G refers to the bore
diameter of the impeller. The 13G is
definitely bigger than the
9B. The exhaust housing of a 13G is slightly
larger than the 9B, as
well, and have slightly different a/r ratio however
small. I doubt it
would be enough to account for 50 HP though without
additional boost, but the
13G is capablke of holding much more boost than
the 9B.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
> The "stock" turbos for the overseas (to the continental US) are
13g's.
> > therefore the turbos are quite a bit larger than the US
version
> turbos. I
> > suspect the 13g's will produce at
least 50hp more than the
> 9b's. Which would
> > be enough to get
into the 11's.
>
> No, no way, look again at our dyno sessions and
you'll see a
> bigger power in the
> mid-band and more tourque. The
torque then helps to get a faster
> 1/4 mile time
> but no hp. If I
had done the dyno with summer tires (I was too
> stupid and we
>
almost glow up the winter tires) then the results would show a
> better
power
> holding in the higher area. but that's it. Also I don't think
the
> 13 is really
> bigger but it has a different design of the
compressor wheel.
>
> Regards,
> Roger
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 08:04:29
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Date:
Wed, 21 Apr 1999 11:03:50 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Brakes - My History and
Current Status
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Warning VERY long post. I am the Dave that Brad Bardell
mentioned in his
post. I have a 1993 VR4 with K&N, boost controller and
gutted cats. During
1998 started racing. Prior to first event installed
steel brake lines, Motul
600 fluid , Performance friction Z rated pad, GAB
struts, and used stock
rotors and tires. High speed course at Pocono, 3.3
miles using 1/2 of NASCAR
track. 125 in front straight, 157 in back
straight. Pads lasted 2 days.
Serious fade. After trying different
techniques learned to either be ON the
brakes or OFF, no light braking then
hard braking. Fade was reduced but would
return after a few hot laps. Did a
few laps slower to cool then down, then
back to hot laps. Next phase, get
better pads. Went with Performance friction
83 compound. Poncono North
course, 1.5 miles, 125 in front straight. First
few laps brakes felt great.
On lap 5 warped rotors. Next went with
Performance friction 93 pads. Less
aggressive than the 83's. Turned rotors to
correct warp. Bought a set of
Yoko A0032R's. North course again at Pocono.
First day everything
stayed together. No fade, no warp. Second day during 3rd
session warped
rotors. Most likely because now I was learning course and
generating more
speed into braking zones, plus the added traction from the
Yoko's. Next I
got cross drilled rotors from Brake Warehouse. These are Bradi
rotors made
in Italy. 3 laps and cracked right rotor clean through from
outside of rotor
to one of the x-drilled holes. Saw other major cracks
starting in different
locations. Replaced rotors with Bradi slotted. These
lasted for 3 events
before warping. I concluded from all of this that it's
guess work at best to
get the pad / rotor combination that would result in a
setup with little to
no fade by using an aggressive enough pad without
overheating the rotors.
BTW, I remove the backing plates before my first
event. Broke open the piggy
bank and ordered Brad Bardell's setup. Using
stock 17" wheels the
clearance on the calipers is really tight. Pagid Orange
pads. Mounted up the
new G-Force R1's. Installed Ground Control's coil over
setup on my existing
GAB's. Running 650 lbs in front and 500 in rear. Car is
2.3 inches lower
than stock. Installed a rear shock tower from road race
engineering. April
16th, Lime Rock Park. 1.5 mile course. Front straight
speeds of 125. Back
section of track around 80-85. Air temp. 45 degree's.
COLD track. After a
few slow laps to build up some tire temp ( not much) and
getting used to new
suspension, started to gradually increase lap speeds.
Side note, new
suspension has eliminated pushing in corners. Car is very
neutral now
:) Ok back to the brakes. Lap 15 on back short straight 80 mph
setting
up for right hander. Hard on brakes. SNAP, followed by a immediate
right
hand turn. Thought something locked up in the right front. Saved the
car in
the corner, limped back to the pits. Left front rotor snapped. Sheared
the
hub away from the rotor surface. Thought about the power slot post last
year. Done for the day :(. Picked up a set of stock rotors (Wagner).
Drove
car around to season rotors. Let them cool, then beat the hell out of
them on
a local highway. 90-20 mph stops. Did about 30 of these in a row. No
problems. Had the G-force tires still on the car. Drove to West Viriginia on
Sunday to Summit Point for a 2 day event. Summit Point is a 2.5 mile
technical course, 130 in front straight. Several area's of 80 mph into
braking zones. 9 turns total, most are right hander's. Needless to say I was
VERY tentative on the brakes. As my confindence returned speed increased. No
fade, no bang. Throughout the day did around 80 laps. On Tuesday I started
to
get more aggressive after studying every area of runoff just in case.
After
44 laps I cound not get the brakes to fade, not even once. Mid
afternoon had
a instructor friend of mine ride with me. By the end of 20
laps, we were 4-5
seconds faster than I had been previous. Now we are
carrying mucho speed into
the braking zones ( 20-25 mph more). Now I am full
on the brakes and a few
times had front wheels lock up briefly. Awesome
pucker factor of about 9.
Side note, On Tuesday morning went to go out with
the exact same tire setup
as I left it on Monday. Wicked vibration in front
end. Left front G-Force
tire and become out of round by 1/4 in. Tread was
even all the way around. No
one could explain how this happened. No spare,
so I put it on the right rear
and lowered the pressure and reduced that
shocks dampening. Could still feel
it at high speed, but was controllable.
After 150 + laps the pads look great.
Very little wear. Rotors are fine. So
my conclusions so far are 1) You cannot
generate anywhere near the braking
force on the street that you can on the
track mostly due to the grip of the
hot G-force tires and getting the brakes
up to optimum temp. I think this is
why the KVR rotors did not snap while I
was testing it on the street. 2)
Stock rotors worked fine. Question is, do
the slotted portion of the KVR
rotors contribute to higher braking forces, or
do they just serve to clear
the brake dust build up between the pads and
rotors ? 3) The rotors in
Brad's kit are the 94-up stock size. These are
about 5/8 larger in diameter
than the 91-93's. I think perhaps the increased
sweep area of the caliper's
contribute more to perfomance than the rotor
size. This is pure speculation
on my part. 4) ANY comparisons between brake
systems must take into account
where system was used. Track vs street. I
really don't think you can compare
system realiabilty if they are not used on
the track. Please feel free to
comment, correct, or just add your 3 cents.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 08:11:17
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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 11:09:54 -0400
From: Gavin
Wallis <wallisg@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake
upgrade
-Reply
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A few suggestions:
1) Incorporate a rating system: 1-10. It can be
averages of all user input
or something like that...it is hard to understand
what you mean when you
say Porterfield has a "shorter" life.
2) Include the crap pieces too...i.e. powerslot. This
gives people the good
ole process of elimination + the ability to choose.
Maybe the Powerslots
get real low ratings for x-cross, but get high ratings
for low speed
grip...thus someone who just drives on the street and likes to
see his
0-60 times will figure out to save the money and buy some
poweslots.
3) These are just some categories:
PADS
:
Material
Size
Life
Dust
Cost
Cold Friction
Hot
Friction
Noise
Rotor Wear
Price
Suggested Use
Cust Satisfaction
(ok ok...a little influence here from tirerack :))
ROTORS:
Material
Size
Weight
Low speed
stops over stock rating
High speed stops over stock rating
Race structural
integrity
Street structural integrity
Price
Rust?
KITS:
Bolton?
All of the above categories
List members
experiences
etc...
Like I said, we NEED a web page for this, or at least a
database.
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
>>> xwing <xwing@execpc.com> 04/21/99 07:39pm
>>>
It seems we need a heirarchy of braking systems available to our
cars,
from best to
least, and cost/features of each. I will start
one, everybody else can
modify it, add
brands, change order, it is just a
start based on my limited knowledge,
off top of head
(NOT researched, please correct errors, Roger and Brad
et al!) (Brad I
don't know
if yours or Bremsa is better, let's hash this
out to the best of our ability!)
PAD SIZE is important, if can get this
info--great! One reason my
Stillen/Brembos
are so much better than
stock is the PADS are way
longer/wider/THICKER...
>From best to "worst":
Front
Brakes
Brand
size
cost
special
features/Questions
1) AP
Racing 14" 6-piston
system ?$6000 WHERE to get, KVR?
is
bolton?
2)
Bremsa
12.6"
(322mm)
?$ Aluminum
hats
?Brembo
caliper
3) Brad
Bedell 12.6"
(322mm)
$1500 Steel hats, Brembo
caliper
4)
Stillen/Brembo
12.2"
$2000 Steel hats Braided
lines
5) ?Baer
Racing
?
? No idea/should
be
called!
6)
?MovIt
?
? No Idea, is
it
BOLTON?
6) Mitsubishi 94+
12.1"
boneyard cheap better than 91-93
7) Mitsubishi
91-93
11.2"
" cheap
Rear Brakes:
1)
Bremsa
?size
?cost Roger mentioned
them;
details?
2)
94+
?size dual piston
cheap bigger than 91-93
3)
91-93
?10.1" single piston cheap
Brake pads: (This may just be a list of
features/experiences, there is
balance between
longevity, friction,
dust--which do YOU choose as most important etc?
1) Pagid
Blue
last LONG, moderate dust, expensive,
average
friction
2)
Porterfield
R4
last shorter, alot of nasty dust, brake
great/high
friction
3)
Performance Friction Z last long, mod. dust, mod. friction (I
didn't
RACE these)
3) Mitsu Stock
91-93 Not
Recommended For Roadracing; little dust
though
I do not trust crossdrilled rotors yet, nor do I NOW
trust slotted rotors
based on the
catastrophic failures suffered in
use--you FIRST need to be able to
TRUST your
brakes, at LEAST that they
won't explode on you...
Hope this is useful as a starter list!
Add/modify/change away! Call
places, get info!
Jack Tertadian
Jack,
Very good start and I will place this information onto
a page on my site for
later use for everyone (if this is ok four anyone). I
do have almost every link
to information pages about the pages and can paste
some pictures too.
> 2)
Bremsa
12.6" (322mm)
Any disc size is possible. One call and they can do it
as the hub is always the
same for all cars even with ap, Brembo or whatever
calipers.
> 6) MovIt No Idea, is it
BOLTON?
Yes, they have a kit available. 17" wheels are a
must then (of course)
> 6) Mitsubishi 94+
boneyard cheap better than 91-93
I haven't found any 3000GT / Stealth on any boneyard in
Switz. and Germany :(
> 1) Bremsa Roger mentioned them;
details?
Yes, will provide them this evening.
> 1) Pagid Blue last LONG,
moderate dust, expensive, average
It's mabye good to provide real prices
too.
Again, if this is ok for you I gather the information
and place it onto my
pages.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 08:23:02
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Hey, I posted a message a couple days ago and
haven't received a single resopnse. I
was racing my car and noticed
that after I shifted into the next gear it felt like a
slug and wouldn't
build appropriate boost. This was done while speed shifting
shortly
before the rev limiter. I'm thinking that it would hit the
limiter momentarily causing
the poor acceleration in the next gear. I
couldn't feel it hit the limiter at all, and
I was just kinda wondering if
the limiter might cause such a thing to happen. My
fastest time was
done with lift throttle shifting.
thanks,
Jason
At 11:03 AM 4/21/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Warning VERY
long post. I am the Dave that Brad Bardell mentioned in his
>post. I have
a 1993 VR4 with K&N, boost controller and gutted cats.
I take it that your successful setup is:
Brad's
Porsche caliper and brake kit
Pagid pads
Stock (!!) rotors.
Did I get all this correct?
No fade? And the pads
last a long time?
Ducting?
Sounds like this might be the hot ticket.
Rich/old poop
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 08:30:36
1999
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From: Gavin
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos? -Reply
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>>> Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch> 04/21/99 03:50am
>>>
>Furthermore, the less boost the better the milage and the
better the
>result in tests :) Interestingly, my milage went up after
increasing boost
>;-)
Makes sense to me...turbos use what otherwise would be
wasted
energy...the perpetual machine :)
> BTW, Gavin Wallis mentioned that it is pointless
to make a stock
> turbo'd 3000GT run 11's b/c it would cost $10k to gut it
and put
> slicks and a rollcage on it.
>It depends on the rules. I
learned from people that when dialing in and
>you give em a low 12 they
only allow you to run with a roll cage
>installed. But you are right, I
think high 11s are possible with less than
>10k.
Ok, could someone tell me the prices of rollcage +
installation...maybe i'm
just totally retarded. I believed it to be from
$5000 and up for a light,
strong cage. Then add $1200 susp. mods, $2000
light wheels, $1000
slicks, totaling: $9200 w/out labor and
shipping.
Jason...
Sounds like you're driving it hard. Slipping clutch?
Fouled plugs? Loose
vacuum line? Leaking Y-pipe?
I don't think there should be any relationship between
your symptoms
(failure to build boost) and your rev limiter. My experience
with the rev
limiter is that it cuts the spark, feeling like misfire, but
recovers as
soon as I shift and get the revs back down. We really shouldn't
need to
shift much past 7K rpm to keep it in the power band for the next gear
(I'm
talking 2nd gen with a six speed), but my solution was to have
G-force
remove the rev limiter completely.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
Hey, I posted a message a couple days ago and haven't
received a single
resopnse. I
was racing my car and noticed that
after I shifted into the next gear it
felt like a
slug and wouldn't build
appropriate boost. This was done while speed
shifting shortly
before
the rev limiter. I'm thinking that it would hit the limiter
momentarily
causing
the poor acceleration in the next gear. I couldn't feel it hit
the limiter
at all, and
I was just kinda wondering if the limiter might
cause such a thing to
happen. My
fastest time was done with lift
throttle shifting.
thanks,
Jason
Gavin...
Check the archives. There were a couple threads about
roll bars & roll cages
in the last two months. Seems like the NHRA setup
was less than the $5K
you're quoting. Keep in mind that a six point roll cage
is heavy (~ 300
lbs?). You'll need to remove a LOT of things even to get back
to the stock
weight after you've added one.
However, you're going to need that money anyway. I
REALLY doubt, no matter
how much weight you ditch, that you can make it into
the 11s with a bone
stock engine. I don't see any $$$ allocated for boost
control, injectors,
fuel pump, etc. Even if you keep the 9Gs (and I still
don't understand why
it matters), there's still a bunch of money to get the
rest of the air/fuel
delivery system up to the performance level required to
hit the 11s.
BTW...this is only my opinion, I'd love to have you
prove me wrong.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
Ok, could someone tell me the prices of rollcage +
installation...maybe i'm
just totally retarded. I believed it to be from
$5000 and up for a light,
strong cage. Then add $1200 susp. mods, $2000
light wheels, $1000
slicks, totaling: $9200 w/out labor and
shipping.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 08:53:55
1999
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Date:
Wed, 21 Apr 1999 11:52:58 EDT
Subject: Team3S: VPC --> 550cc injectors on
a 96VR4
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All,
About the debate on
550cc/560cc/720cc injectors on the 2nd Gen. Stealth
and VR4s, NO
PROBLEM! We've been running them on our cars for a while now,
and
haven't run into any problems.
At least, to run the 550cc injectors an A'pexi AFC is
necessary. The problem
with the AFC is that it needs to be leaned near
-30% across the board or the
2nd. Gen Stealth/VR4s tend to run extremely
rich. Another problem I've seen
(and experienced) is that because the
AFC only adjusts the stock fuel curve
(no map capabilities) at certain boost
levels the car can experience pretty
severe lean conditions. For
example, very commonly on the 2nd. Gens with the
AFC, you'll notice when the
gas is pressed down significantly the fuel is
actually taken OUT of the car
(as the 02's head down towards Zero) and then a
split second later the fuel
is properly added.
Another option available, and a much better option,
would be to run a VPC.
I've been installing custom VPC's on the 2nd.
Gen. for a while now and am
glad to report they work great (to the extent I
am considering selling my TRE
MASC - which was another option for us 2nd.
Geners that never got out of the
development stages).
The VPC's are superior to the AFC's for several
reasons. First, fuel
delivery. The VPC uses a MAP sensor to help
determine how much fuel the car
should receive. That is better than
the AFC because the Stealth/VR4 won't
experience the awkward lean conditions
that the AFC experiences under certain
loads.
Second, the VPC's are available with a different chip
for those who run
larger injectors. The 550cc chip we use on the 2nd.
Gen's idles like stock,
and will run good mixtures with 13/15G turbos
without a GCC. For those who
run larger injectors (ie. 720cc) a GCC is
available which will lean out the
fuel mixture.
A third advantage of the VPC over the AFC is the lack
of a mass-air meter.
The VPC eliminates the stock mass-air meter and,
therefore, air can get to
the turbos easier. When I went from the
stock mass-air meter in my 1994
Stealth turbo to the 83mm air-meter I could
fell a difference in power. I
estimate I picked up a good 25hp (with
15G's) by doing away with the stock
air meter!
While we are talking about new mods, another mod we've
found to work well are
the MSD DIS 4 ignitions. We've run as high as
.037 plug gap at 22psi on
Stealth/VR4s without any spark blow-out. If
we by-pass the MSD the same car
wouldn't run more than 18psi before the
hesitation ruined our fun. The only
problem with the DIS 4 is that it
won't work on the Stealth/VR4 alone. It
requires a custom tack adapter
kit which we're making available with VR4
specific directions to simplify
install.
Before I go, I'd like to thank my friend Joe Cannella
who let us
test/pioneree the OBD-11 VPC and MSD on his beautiful Purple 1996
3000GT VR4!
If I can get my hands on a scanner I'll post the pics we
have of his car and
the install of the VPC and MSD.
Here is an Idea for helping to cool the brakes. I
realize this would be a small help
however this is going to be _Real_
cheap. I don't know about the mechanics of this so
if this doesn't work
forgive me. Heat sinks which are used to cool CPU's in computers
are
actually very effective, and 2" x2" roughly sqaure of the material
costs abou $0.50
What about something like this attached to the Caliper with
heat conductor to help cool
this off. Even if it is a small amount, if
you used 4 of em only $2 for the whole
thing. Maybe the key here may be
a few small, inexpensive things, along with a solution
to the Pad/Rotor issue
to eliminate our fade problem.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 09:01:34
1999
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From: Gavin
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Re: Team3S: Chrome Exhaust Tips -Reply
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Ansa is also good and cheap...a couple starnet.net list
members have
them...
Gavin
'94 Black VR-4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 09:02:52
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Date:
Wed, 21 Apr 1999 11:58:08 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Re: Brad's Brake Setup
To:
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You wrote;
I take it that your successful setup
is:
Brad's Porsche caliper and brake kit
Pagid pads
Stock (!!)
rotors.
Yes, this is the setup. Brad is sending me a
replacement for the
snapped KVR rotor. I think I will have the one that did
not snap AND the new
one magnafluxed to check them for intergrity. Stock
Wagner rotors seem to
hold up fine so far. Keep in mind that the setup is
new, only 150 racing
laps. I have not pulled the pads out yet to really
check them, but visual
inspection shows maybe 1/8 - 1/4 pad used. I will let
you know. Keep in mind
this setup WILL
squeak on the street until they
are warmed up. Clearance on the calipers in
tight. 1/16 in in some area's. I
also am still using the stock rear 1993
rotors and pads. Will upgrade to 94+
calipers and pads shortly to help take
some braking away from the front to
keep weight shift down a little. In the
short time I have used this setup my
confidence has gone WAY up, no more
wondering if the next braking zone is
where fade will occur. I talking some
serious LATE braking, harness
biting into chest, high pucker factor. Don't
have any cooling ducts,
but will put in something shortly just to bring temps
down a bit.
At 09:50 AM 4/21/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Here is an
Idea for helping to cool the brakes. I realize this would be a
small
help
>however this is going to be _Real_ cheap. I don't know about
the
mechanics of this so
>if this doesn't work forgive me.
I learned in the think tanks that EVERY idea is
good.
Heat sinks which are used to cool CPU's in
computers
>are actually very effective, and 2" x2" roughly
sqaure of the material
costs abou $0.50
>What about something like this
attached to the Caliper with heat conductor
to help cool
>this
off. Even if it is a small amount, if you used 4 of em only $2 for
the
whole
>thing. Maybe the key here may be a few small, inexpensive
things, along
with a solution
>to the Pad/Rotor issue to eliminate our
fade problem.
>
Maybe Andrew is on to something.
We are limited to
attaching stuff to the inner part of the caliper because
everything else is
too close to the rotor, wheel, or tire. Could we attach
a heat conductor such
as a heat pipe to draw off heat?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 10:12:26
1999
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From: Gavin
Wallis <WallisG@mwaa.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brembo $2g kit, was: Re: Basic brake
upgrade
-Reply
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uhhhh...am i the only one who sees huge clearance
issues?
>>> Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com> 04/21/99 11:50am
>>>
Here is an Idea for helping to cool the brakes. I realize
this would be a
small help
however this is going to be _Real_ cheap.
I don't know about the
mechanics of this so
if this doesn't work forgive
me. Heat sinks which are used to cool CPU's
in computers
are
actually very effective, and 2" x2" roughly sqaure of the
material
costs abou $0.50
What about something like this attached to the
Caliper with heat
conductor to help cool
this off. Even if it is a
small amount, if you used 4 of em only $2 for the
whole
thing. Maybe
the key here may be a few small, inexpensive things, along
with a
solution
to the Pad/Rotor issue to eliminate our fade problem.
I don't think the clutch is slipping, I was
launching REAL hard, 6k+ dumps with no
slipping, I'd expect it to slip there
more than anywhere. The plugs have about 3k miles
on em, not saying
they're not, but kinda doubt it. The vacuum lines seem to be ok,
not
sure about the Y-pipe. It just seems odd that most if not all runs
with speed shifts
had this affect, I was only able to watch the boost closely
twice, but it did feel
sluggish on most runs. My car felt much stronger
and ran a faster time on the only run
where I lifted off the throttle between
shifts. It may have been building proper boost
the other weak runs,
would retarded timing affect boost?
I'd rather not get rid of the
limiter, if not for it, I'm sure something would have
been broken all to hell
already. Thanks to a floor mat that moved around, the gas pedal
would
stick to it and cause me to bounce off the rev limiter for extended periods,
if
only for a second or two. Btw, I'm sure it's not good, but is it bad
to hit the
limiter, can I damage anything? I took off behind a friend
the other day, I was
spinning and when I finally hooked up I redlined pretty
quick. I hit the limiter for a
split second before pushing the clutch
in to shift to the next gear, not a speed shift
btw. The car proceeded
to backfire like crazy and mis bad, everytime I tried to rev a
bit to keep it
alive it backfired more. I cut the engine completely to give it a
few
seconds and couldn't get it restarted, I finally had to put it in gear
and let out on
the clutch to get the engine turning over at all. It was
missing like crazy, but
straightened out shortly after and drove fine.
Again, I'm sure it's not good, but this
really worried me.
Unfortunately I've got extensive experience with the limiter (the
floor mat
is now in my hatch) and it never acted like that aside from resembling
one
ocasion where it was bouncing off the limiter for upwards of 2 seconds or
better, the
time it took to reach down and pull the floor mat
back.
Jason
Chris Winkley wrote:
> Jason...
>
> Sounds like you're
driving it hard. Slipping clutch? Fouled plugs? Loose
> vacuum line?
Leaking Y-pipe?
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 10:43:00
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Thats why I asked the group, I have no idea as to
the clearance issues. What about
cooling the fluid directly? a
container of some kind with heat sinks to bring down the
temp?
Gavin Wallis wrote:
> uhhhh...am i the only one who sees huge clearance
issues?
-snip-
--
Andrew M. Brilliant
Webmaster
IS
Department
Global Web Direct (OTC BB: GLCO)
801-852-4961
1-800-500-1847
ext: 2961
Any of you guys ever got your rotors cryo'ed
??
Best
Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
>
> Any of you
guys ever got your rotors cryo'ed ??
>
> Best
>
>
Henri
Porterfield offers this as a $40 option on their
rotors. As of yet, no
one has mentioned that they have used
them.
--
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 11:03:40
1999
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: High 11's w/ stock Turbos? -Reply
References: <00a201be8b6d$bea47e60$113f5d18@austin.rr.com>
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Brad Bedell wrote:
>
> The
"stock" turbos for the overseas (to the continental US) are
13g's.
The US-spec cars the only ones with the smaller
9Bs?
> therefore the turbos are quite a bit larger
than the US version turbos. I
> suspect the 13g's will produce at
least 50hp more than the 9b's. Which would
> be enough to get into the
11's.
Note that our last dyno session in Switzerland pitted
Roger's stock 13Gs
& aftermarket exhaust against Mike's stock 9Bs &
aftermarket exhaust
against my stock 9Bs & stock exhaust. Details
on the web.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
Jason;
Just a thought...timing retard? Disconnect Battery/ ECU
and let it reset. More than likely
it's one of the possiblities Chris has
already mentioned.
Best
Darc
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 11:22:20
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From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VPC --> 550cc injectors on a 96VR4
References: <5c3dcb4e.244f4e5a@aol.com>
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LotoBoost@aol.com wrote:
snip
>
Another option available, and a much better option, would be to run a
VPC.
> I've been installing custom VPC's on the 2nd. Gen. for a while now
and am
> glad to report they work great (to the extent I am considering
selling my TRE
> MASC - which was another option for us 2nd. Geners that
never got out of the
> development stages).
snip
This is great news Mike. Please elaborate on the
custom installation.
Are you cutting and splicing? Installing a new
connector on the VPC?
Have you created a converter/harness that can plug
into the VPC and the
2nd gen's ECU connector? It sounds like a harness
would be a good item
to fabricate and sell.
--
How many roads must a man travel down before he
admits he is lost!
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> We have 284 DIN hp
here, every year. But this is because our stock cars have
> 0.45-0.6 bars
of boost stock. No differences over the years. I think Mitsu did
> this to
keep the power below 300hp as some Cantons in Switzerland as well as
>
other countries use a tax-system that looks for the hp of the cars.
Furthermore,
> the less boost the better the milage and the better the
result in tests :)
Note that 284 DIN = 320 SAE. Euro-spec cars have
bigger turbos than
U.S.-spec cars but the same peak horsepower (much
different curve,
though). Also interesting is that this still holds
true after boost is
increased above stock levels. Again, see the dyno
results for more
info.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> We have 284 DIN hp
here, every year. But this is because our stock cars have
> 0.45-0.6 bars
of boost stock. No differences over the years. I think Mitsu did
> this to
keep the power below 300hp as some Cantons in Switzerland as well as
>
other countries use a tax-system that looks for the hp of the cars.
Furthermore,
> the less boost the better the milage and the better the
result in tests :)
Note that 284 DIN = 320 SAE. Euro-spec cars have
bigger turbos than
U.S.-spec cars but the same peak horsepower (much
different curve,
though). Also interesting is that this still holds
true after boost is
increased above stock levels. Again, see the dyno
results for more
info.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 11:51:37
1999
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Re: Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
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Dskull@aol.com
wrote:
>
> [ ... ] I think perhaps the
increased
> sweep area of the caliper's contribute more to perfomance than
the rotor
> size. This is pure speculation on my part. [ ...
]
Thanx for the post. Now I am looking forward to
returning to Maryland
in a few years so that I can enjoy a few laps around
Pocono and Summit.
On the other hand, I'm only an hour from
Nurburgring!
Interesting that you were happiest with the stock
rotors (cheap is good!
:-) ). I must say that I'd be pretty darn
surprised if trading my stock
'94 calipers for yours would prevent
warping. And no fade? I just
don't get it! But I sure hope
it's true!!
I considered the Pagids but thought they would be too
aggressive for the
stock rotors. Not the case? Please let me
know... while Accelerated
Accessories was quick to give me a quote on the
Abex pads, they don't
seem to be interested in taking my money and completing
the order. I
can get Pagids locally, I think.
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 12:05:34
1999
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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 12:05:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
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> After trying different techniques
> learned
to either be ON the
> brakes or OFF, no light braking then hard
braking.
> Fade was reduced but would
> return after a few hot
laps.
Dave is very right. How you brake also effect how fast
the brake system
fades. I must admit I sometimes light brake b4 a hard brake
just to
check if my brake is still there.. haha =)
George
_________________________________________________________
Do
You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
Jason (w/the WOT floor mat mod) :-)
Yes, if you've run the engine into a lean condition
with boost and high
revs, the timing will retard. What I don't know is how
long it will stay
retarded. The ECU design is to compensate for
"abnormal" conditions, then
return to "normal" when the
condition ceases, but that could be five
seconds, or five minutes. Anyone
know?
BTW...I'd still pull the front plugs and check their
condition. If you're
running your boost beyond 1.0 bar, I suggest you tighten
the gap down to
.034".
As Darcy pointed out, it wouldn't hurt to pull the main
fuse for an hour to
reset the ECU. You'll be sure the ECU hasn't
"learned" some strange
condition. AND, as I'm sure you've read from
Roger...major caution should be
exercised with the lean condition causing
detonation. Engine rebuilds are
EXPENSIVE.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake,
TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS
fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV,
custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK
double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
<snip>
It may have been building proper boost the other weak
runs, would retarded
timing affect boost?
Jason
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 14:07:45
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake List Columns!
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 13:26:09
-0500
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HTML would fix this, but that's not allowed
:(
Omar
92 r/t
> WHY did that last message show up crappy? I
had all the columns closely
> spaced yet in order, not with 30 spaces
between words and scattergrammed
> all over the place.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 14:37:48
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Ok, I've put a small page together with some
information. I had only a little of
time but I'm sure it will grow with more
information soon.
Please let me know your input on that (prices, sizes,
etc.) and I'll put it on.
Regards,
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 16:15:58
1999
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From:
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999
16:14:25 -0700
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Accelerated Accessories wasted no time taking MY
money. The charge
to my card showed up the day after I ordered and a week
before I received a
single part! Made me a bit nervuous to be
honest.
It sounds as if the Pagids are the way to go
then. Does anyone know
how much these run and what part number/type to
order?
Thanks.
Dave Allison
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matthews
[mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
>Sent:
Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:55 AM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
>
>I considered
the Pagids but thought they would be too aggressive for the
>stock
rotors. Not the case? Please let me know... while
Accelerated
>Accessories was quick to give me a quote on the Abex pads,
they don't
>seem to be interested in taking my money and completing the
order. I
>can get Pagids locally, I think.
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 16:24:06
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Date:
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From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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xwing wrote:
> WHY did that last message show up crappy? I
had all the columns closely
> spaced yet in order, not with 30 spaces
between words and scattergrammed
> all over the place. Others have
had theirs this way too, it is annoying
> and a detriment to our
list! Maybe someone can help us on this to avoid
> problems in
future? This is not a car topic but does impact on the
> quality of
list messages. Sorry to those who think it unimportant.
One of the more recent versions of Netscape (I use ver.
4.5)
helps to eliminate this problem. Also, it might have been
because
your columns were too wide. I have noticed other people on
the
list also writing with really wide columns which then get cropped
by
either the maillist server and/or my browser. I never write my
lines
past the "Decrease Indent" button on Netscape's toolbar.
But I'm
not sure if these things totally explain why your post turned
out so
messy.
--Errin Humphrey
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 17:42:50
1999
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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 19:42:55
-0500
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
short shifter
To: Stealth-3000 <Stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Message-id:
<000101be8c59$117aefc0$d7273ea6@u7qms>
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Jose, I interested in your shifter send me your private
e-mail because i
deleted it. Also tell me more about this shifter and how
difficult it is to
install it. Thanks Ken
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 18:15:16
1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999
20:51:49 -0400
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> Accelerated Accessories wasted no time taking
MY money. The charge
>to my card showed up the day after I ordered and a
week before I received a
>single part! Made me a bit nervuous to be
honest.
>
> It sounds as if the Pagids are the way to go then. Does
anyone know
>how much these run and what part number/type to
order?
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dave
Allison
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Matthews
[mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
>>Sent:
Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:55 AM
>>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brakes - My History and Current Status
>>
>>I
considered the Pagids but thought they would be too aggressive for
the
>>stock rotors. Not the case? Please let me know...
while Accelerated
>>Accessories was quick to give me a quote on the
Abex pads, they don't
>>seem to be interested in taking my money and
completing the order. I
>>can get Pagids locally, I
think.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 18:37:39
1999
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From:
Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: ABS vs NonABS
Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 13:41:02
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> A 'perfect' ABS system would stop the car in the
shortest distance
> possible by keeping the tires from sliding, thus the
coefficient of
> friction the highest.
This is correct under general conditions. The
only time that
ABS actually increases the stoping distance is on
un-sealed
roads (loose gravel) and possibly snow (don't get much of
it
over here). Under these conditions it is actually advantageous
to
have the wheels lock up and thus "dig" through the
loose
surface.
Anyone having tried to break hard on a gravel pitch
will be
able to back me up on this, best thing to do is to flick the
car
sideways a little, assuming the gravel is not deep or you
may roll
:(
> Del is absolutely right. Use an AFC to tweak the
ECU and to tune in the proper
> fuel delivery or get the ECU modified
($$$). There is also a good AF computer
> from Field that includes A/F
meter and a G-Tech function ! The Supra guys love
> it :)
Question :
What kind of fuel mileage ( M.P.G. ) you guys
getting with the 550cc Injectors ?
Irving
96 VR4
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 19:49:29
1999
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Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999
21:46:41 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From:
Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: ABS vs NonABS
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>This is correct under general conditions. The
only time that
>ABS actually increases the stoping distance is on
un-sealed
>roads (loose gravel) and possibly snow (don't get much of
it
>over here). Under these conditions it is actually
advantageous
>to have the wheels lock up and thus "dig" through
the loose
>surface.Anyone having tried to break hard on a gravel pitch
will be
able to back me up on this, best thing to do is to flick the
car
sideways a little, assuming the gravel is not deep or you
may roll
:(
>
In all the years we ran Pro rallys, we NEVER
had a brake problem. Reason:
We didn't use them much. As Kevin points out, as
you approach a turn on a
gravel road or in snow at speed, you put the car
sideways and let the tires
scrub off the speed. If you slam on the brakes,
it's likely to lock the
front wheels, and then you can't steer it.
Here's the drill, as best as I can remember, for
approaching a 90 deg right
turn in the forest on gravel, dirt, sand, ice, or
snow at 80 mph in a 1972
Datsun 510 rally car:
1. Let off, tap the brakes, downshift to 3rd.
2. Saw
the wheel first to the right, then to the left (like skiing --
you're setting
the edges) to get the car to rotate around sideways,
pointing at the entrance
to the turn. We're now doing about 45-50 mph,
sliding sideways at about a 45
deg angle, with the car pointed to the right.
3. Control the slide with the
throttle. Too fast, let off and let the car
slew a little more sideways to
scrub off speed. Too slow, more throttle to
drive toward the apex. (It sounds
kinda like voopa, voopa, voopa as you
constantly correct with the throttle).
The slide doesn't last long -- maybe
2-5 seconds. As you apex the corner with
the right front fender just
clipping the stop sign at about 35-40 mph, bang
it into 2nd gear and floor
it. The left rear corner will slide right out to
the edge and maybe nick a
tree or two. As we rallyists always said, "if
you don't have any dents in
your rear quarter panels, you ain't going fast
enough!"
The best piece of equipment we ever put in our 510 was
a 4:44 240Z limited
slip diff from Datsun Competition. It made it ever so
much easier to get
and keep the car sideways. On most rallyes, the car rarely
points straight
ahead anyway. In the twisty bits, it's always sideways one
way or another,
'specially in the snow.
Today's rally cars, with their AWD and FWD, corner a
lot differently than
we did with our old RWD cars. To watch John Buffum fling
a 1970s-era RWD
works Escort through a hairpin turn on gravel was to see a
thing of beauty
and exquisite car control at the very limit.
Open track driving is a lot of fun, but not very scary.
Rallying can be
VERY scary.
With bigger injectors, pump, etc. under normal driving
conditions you
should see NO difference in your MPG. HOWEVER, when
driving under boost
with a bigger fuel system, and the other mods, (boost
controller, etc.)
you WILL see a drop off in gas mileage. Because after
all the purpose of
bigger injectors is to get more fuel into the combustion
chamber when it
is needed under high boost driving. I personally see my
gas mileage drop
when I turn my EVC on, and that is a stock fuel
system.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Apr 21 21:34:21
1999
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From:
Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: tranny
leak
Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 19:24:23 -0400
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I couldn't figure out how it got out ... and I still
can't figure out how
it goes in. I put it in Backwards and it
works. I'll be taking out the
tranny soon for a new throwout bearing
and will fix it the right way.
Brian
Subject: Team3S: tranny leak
I've recently developed a little leak from the tranny
on my '91 VR4. It
is leaking out of the side closest to the passenger
wheel above the
drain plug. It appears that some sort of plug is
missing. Has anyone
else experienced a leak from this area and is there
a plug of some sort
that might be missing?
Thanks,
Ken
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
